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[cylent]

QUOTE(cylent @ Aug 2 2008, 02:30 AM)

....

also, what about raising the fan power to 12v?


 

never got an answer for that one...

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(cylent @ Aug 2 2008, 08:43 PM)

never got an answer for that one...

Is a good idea, thought this was clear lol.
12volting the fans is a good idea in general because it helps temperatures...

[cylent]

i found it amazingly difficult cutting the 2x2mm pieces of credit card. anyone else ?

also in this picture i noticed you didnt have any washers on the bottom of the board. just the screw.
i thought you had to have at least nylon washers on the bottom and front to avoid shortening the board?

http://xe.brothersoffreedom.com/en/pics/mobo_schema_en_b.jpg

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(cylent @ Aug 2 2008, 11:57 PM)

i found it amazingly difficult cutting the 2x2mm pieces of credit card. anyone else ?

also in this picture i noticed you didnt have any washers on the bottom of the board. just the screw.
i thought you had to have at least nylon washers on the bottom and front to avoid shortening the board?

http://xe.brothersof...schema_en_b.jpg

Cutting the 15 2x2mm squares takes me about 15 seconds approximately, it must not be exactly 2x2mm...

If you had read the little text above the picture you would have noticed that I said that the no washer at all solution is for the people who cant/dont want to drill holes through their case for the heads of the screws.
However it is recommended to use spring/metal washers to share the pressure up to a greater area of the metal case.
As the gap in between mainboard and metal case is too big then the mainboard will flex though and thats why you have to drill these holes.

[cylent]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 3 2008, 03:58 AM)

Cutting the 15 2x2mm squares takes me about 15 seconds approximately, it must not be exactly 2x2mm...

If you had read the little text above the picture you would have noticed that I said that the no washer at all solution is for the people who cant/dont want to drill holes through their case for the heads of the screws.
However it is recommended to use spring/metal washers to share the pressure up to a greater area of the metal case.
As the gap in between mainboard and metal case is too big then the mainboard will flex though and thats why you have to drill these holes.

on the tutorial page i cant find any text anywhere that says what you just typed above.
to be frank. i dont understand what you are saying. i do not want to drill holes in my metal case so now ... washers or no washers?

[bosnia_9]

QUOTE(cylent @ Aug 2 2008, 08:10 PM)

on the tutorial page i cant find any text anywhere that says what you just typed above.
to be frank. i dont understand what you are saying. i do not want to drill holes in my metal case so now ... washers or no washers?

what hes saying is if you use washers.. your board will get lifted and once you start screwing it down to the case you will flex/bend the board so basically the x clamp replacement is useless..

But if you cut the holes in the casing, then your screws fall through there and eleminate the gap caused by the screws.. which lift the board up. So in this case your board ends up sitting flat and even.

But it also depends on the kind of screws you have, if their flat head you wont have the bending/flexing problem but if you have pan head (round/oval) they they raise your motherboard up a bit.

In my case i had oval/round headed screws so i just used no metal washers in my setup Its all the same thing.

Im gonna tell you this again, your main goal is to keep the motherboard leveled on the casing and not bend/flex it. And achieve good contact on the chips with the heatsinks. So if you have to drill holes or no holes try and get the motherboard to sit level.


Do you understand that?

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(bosnia_9 @ Aug 3 2008, 03:00 AM)

what hes saying is if you use washers.. your board will get lifted and once you start screwing it down to the case you will flex/bend the board so basically the x clamp replacement is useless..

But if you cut the holes in the casing, then your screws fall through there and eleminate the gap caused by the screws.. which lift the board up. So in this case your board ends up sitting flat and even.

But it also depends on the kind of screws you have, if their flat head you wont have the bending/flexing problem but if you have pan head (round/oval) they they raise your motherboard up a bit.

In my case i had oval/round headed screws so i just used no metal washers in my setup Its all the same thing.

Im gonna tell you this again, your main goal is to keep the motherboard leveled on the casing and not bend/flex it. And achieve good contact on the chips with the heatsinks. So if you have to drill holes or no holes try and get the motherboard to sit level.
Do you understand that?

Yep thats what I was trying to say...
Thanks mate.

*EDIT*
And this was the excerpt from the tutorial I was referring to...
Guess I will update that on Monday to prevent misunderstandings...

QUOTE

10) Now fasten the heatsinks with the screws and washers like shown in the schematics below.
Only tighten the screws as much as necessary(only snug so that the heatsinks dont move), otherwise you risk that the mainboard flexes too much and another problem returns later even if you fixed the actual problem.

You can also use spring washers or metal washers additionally in between the screw and the mainboard but then you have to drill holes through the case otherwise the mainboard wont fit in the case properly(how to do this is explained below...)

[cylent]

QUOTE(bosnia_9 @ Aug 3 2008, 05:00 AM)

what hes saying is if you use washers.. your board will get lifted and once you start screwing it down to the case you will flex/bend the board so basically the x clamp replacement is useless..

i have read everywhere that you're supposed to use a rubber/nylon washer on both sides of the screw so you dont short out the motherboard.
people usually just copy each other without verification so here i am asking this:
if i dont use a rubber/nylon washer on the bottom side and only on the top will the board short or not?

[scuba156]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 2 2008, 12:13 AM)

Would also be nice if a moderator could add it to the Stickies...

done, its posted in the X-Clamp replacement success thread here

i would also suggest not to apply the thermal paste directly to the die, it should be applied to the heatsinks first.

otherwise, very nice work. cant wait to test it out

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 2 2008, 09:02 AM)

Hmm
I am sorry but I guess you just digged yourself a grave dude...
If you had read the rules you would know that piracy is clearly against xbox-scene's rules and you can get banned for it.
You better pray that the moderator will only suspend you for a couple of days...
The fact that there is no place where you can buy originals might save you from the ban but in general there is zero tolerance for this topic...

dealt with  

Piracy is not tolerated here AT ALL, and will not be given any special treatment due to status/job/location/circumstances.

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(cylent @ Aug 3 2008, 10:24 AM)

i have read everywhere that you're supposed to use a rubber/nylon washer on both sides of the screw so you dont short out the motherboard.
people usually just copy each other without verification so here i am asking this:
if i dont use a rubber/nylon washer on the bottom side and only on the top will the board short or not?

If you dont use any you are grounding the heatsink, this pretty much doesnt make a difference though because there is only 1 point where this heatsink can short something out and since it does that no matter if it is grounded or not, you should be able to use metal washers only....
Please correct me if I am wrong here...

QUOTE

done, its posted in the X-Clamp replacement success thread here

i would also suggest not to apply the thermal paste directly to the die, it should be applied to the heatsinks first.

otherwise, very nice work. cant wait to test it out

Thank you very much.
I never applied it to the heatsink because I never know where the chip dies are exactly but if this works better I will give it a go next time, thanks for the tip.

QUOTE

dealt with

Piracy is not tolerated here AT ALL, and will not be given any special treatment due to status/job/location/circumstances.

Thought so
Looks like cylent is gonna be silent for a while then lol

[scuba156]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 3 2008, 07:53 PM)

If you dont use any you are grounding the heatsink, this pretty much doesnt make a difference though because there is only 1 point where this heatsink can short something out and since it does that no matter if it is grounded or not, you should be able to use metal washers only....
Please correct me if I am wrong here...

its fine to only use metal washers. nylon ones are prefered as they compress and wont cause the heatsink to short anything out. i cant find any nylon washers locally so i just use metal washers

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 3 2008, 07:53 PM)

I never applied it to the heatsink because I never know where the chip dies are exactly but if this works better I will give it a go next time, thanks for the tip.

what i do is apply a small bit to the heatsink in the place where i think it is, spread it out so its thin then place the heatsink on the cpu/gpu and apply a bit of pressure then remove. the die will leave an imprint on the heatsinks thermal compund and you will also see where it is on the die itself. then you can just adjust where its not making contact

[M2X]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 2 2008, 10:11 PM)

I could only get the 0022 I had back then to work with overheating if I remember right but I didnt have to use it that often, sometimes did when the RODs returned I guess.
The overheating is the most stupid thing you can do in my opinion, it is just a bandaid if it doesnt work because of the pressure already this will only make it work temporarily.
If you think you have to overheat it then use a heatgun and reflow the solder properly.

I never used overheating with my method anymore.
If it is a 360 that has been attempted to be fixed like on Ebay(it is unbelievable what people tried to fix it, I even had one that was full of oil, like some thick black stuff or like mainboards that were literally burned ), then I usually heatgun it before just to make sure everything is connected properly...
I also do this in general for 360s that already have the X-Clamps replaced because most retards screw it in so tight that the mainboard bends extremely...

I only fixed like 5 360s or so before that(mainly for mates and family), the error codes were just the usual ones like 0020  0102 and 0022.
The reason why 0022s ,E74s(1022), 0021s and E73s(1021) can be fixed better with this method is simple.
These errors are mainly related to the outer solder balls of the GPU and because of the credit card pieces which take the out side of the chip under pressure as well these are also reconnected.
0022 is a bridged solder joint/E74(1022) cold solder joint  under the scaler-chip/GPU traces that lead to it, so the upper part of the GPU.
0021 is a bridged solder joint/E73(1021) cold solder joint  under the Southbridge/GPU traces that lead to it, so the left part of the GPU.

0102 is the one that is the easiest to fix, 0020 can be a bit harder to fix(still easier than the other 002*s though) because the solderballs under the GPU/RAM are shorting out then...

Thanks bro! You are the man! Now I know all about these errors more than I used to.
I'm waiting to get another craped box and get it repaired with a hybrid of these methods.
I'll post the results then.
 

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(scuba156 @ Aug 3 2008, 12:22 PM)

its fine to only use metal washers. nylon ones are prefered as they compress and wont cause the heatsink to short anything out. i cant find any nylon washers locally so i just use metal washers
what i do is apply a small bit to the heatsink in the place where i think it is, spread it out so its thin then place the heatsink on the cpu/gpu and apply a bit of pressure then remove. the die will leave an imprint on the heatsinks thermal compund and you will also see where it is on the die itself. then you can just adjust where its not making contact

Ye I will try this next time.

QUOTE(M2X @ Aug 3 2008, 02:25 PM)

Thanks bro! You are the man! Now I know all about these errors more than I used to.
I'm waiting to get another craped box and get it repaired with a hybrid of these methods.
I'll post the results then.
 

Ye I am working on some kind of user driven error code database but I am still waiting for twisted symphony's reply if I have the permission to use excerpts from the guide on here...
It will offer possible fixes etc...

[brandogg]

If you could get a hold of some of the foam pads that AMD used to put on the Athlon processors, that would be ideal for what you're trying to do with the credit card pieces. If you have an old Athlon processor you could just slice them off with a razor

[M2X]

QUOTE(brandogg @ Aug 3 2008, 05:49 PM)

If you could get a hold of some of the foam pads that AMD used to put on the Athlon processors, that would be ideal for what you're trying to do with the credit card pieces. If you have an old Athlon processor you could just slice them off with a razor

Oh man! Nice idea! I've got two of them I think!!! Cause my CPU is Athlon 64 and I've had it since 5 years ago or something. I'll see if I can find the pieces!