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Author Topic: Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement  (Read 2887 times)

M2X

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #45 on: August 03, 2008, 11:45:00 AM »

Ah... Power shortage again! This is the second time today. Now I'm using my cell phone so I can't edit my previous post.

Guys I found those cpu foams and messured its thickness with my vernier caliper. It's not good enough. It is too soft. The thickness values are:
3.2mm when normal.
0.5mm when pressed not so tightly.
Considering that Whilhelm said the card pieces are 0.8 mm thick then these foams won't do the trick.
While messuring I saw that my caliper's case had some thick foam that could do the trick well but anyway I need those foams in there... Got to see what else I could find.

Edit: wtf? Now I can edit my post? What the hell is wrong?
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Wilhelm_I

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #46 on: August 03, 2008, 07:14:00 PM »

QUOTE(M2X @ Aug 3 2008, 08:21 PM) View Post

Ah... Power shortage again! This is the second time today. Now I'm using my cell phone so I can't edit my previous post.

Guys I found those cpu foams and messured its thickness with my vernier caliper. It's not good enough. It is too soft. The thickness values are:
3.2mm when normal.
0.5mm when pressed not so tightly.
Considering that Whilhelm said the card pieces are 0.8 mm thick then these foams won't do the trick.
While messuring I saw that my caliper's case had some thick foam that could do the trick well but anyway I need those foams in there... Got to see what else I could find.

Edit: wtf? Now I can edit my post? What the hell is wrong?

LOL looks like Iran badly needs some nuclear plants lol

Thats what I was afraid of foam is not solid and so it wont take it under the same pressure like the solid chip die..
I got a new ROD mainboard yesterday and I just confirmed another time that the height of the credit cards is really perfect.
I held it beside the chip dies and it is exactly as high as these, so I guess this is really the perfect height.

And you can edit your posts for like 30 minutes I guess, after that it locks it.
It is a pretty gay feature though imo because it would make life a lot easier for the topic starters if they could edit their tutorials on their own...
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modderguy791

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #47 on: August 03, 2008, 08:36:00 PM »

Hey wilhelm...id also like to confirm that this works wonderfully even without the X-Clamp replacement. I mean the creditcard thing. My xbox frequently froze up and had checkerboard patterns go across the screen every now and then. so i said what the hell and chopped up a gift card i had laying around and layed a piece at each corner of the GPU(along with a few other spots on the chip). Ive been playing my 360 non stop for the last 2 days now and it hasent frozen on up me yet!
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Wilhelm_I

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #48 on: August 04, 2008, 02:51:00 AM »

QUOTE(modderguy791 @ Aug 4 2008, 05:12 AM) View Post

Hey wilhelm...id also like to confirm that this works wonderfully even without the X-Clamp replacement. I mean the creditcard thing. My xbox frequently froze up and had checkerboard patterns go across the screen every now and then. so i said what the hell and chopped up a gift card i had laying around and layed a piece at each corner of the GPU(along with a few other spots on the chip). Ive been playing my 360 non stop for the last 2 days now and it hasent frozen on up me yet!

Ye it is quite clear that it works even with the X-Clamps still applied because you take the chip under more even pressure but the mainboard is still flexing so it will fail sooner or later again  rolleyes.gif
Just out of curiosity, what was your secondary error code?
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modderguy791

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #49 on: August 04, 2008, 03:02:00 AM »

Well cant really tell you that, eject button doesent work lol. and that seems to be the only thing i cant fix with a chopped up credit card XD.

But im assuming it was something with the GPU since well, it did fix the freezing and such. usualy i would just let it overheat and then it would work for the next day or so and do the same thing over again tongue.gif, and i dident really put it in the corners...more like 2 long strips on the side and the i had a strip going between the actual GPU Die and the embedded ram.

Now i dont want to get off topic or anything, but wouldent it be possible to build a New X-Clamp out of something stronger then steel? You know something that doesent bend well in heat.....

Anyway thanks for the helpful tutorial!
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Wilhelm_I

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #50 on: August 04, 2008, 03:34:00 AM »

QUOTE(modderguy791 @ Aug 4 2008, 11:38 AM) View Post

Well cant really tell you that, eject button doesent work lol. and that seems to be the only thing i cant fix with a chopped up credit card XD.

But im assuming it was something with the GPU since well, it did fix the freezing and such. usualy i would just let it overheat and then it would work for the next day or so and do the same thing over again tongue.gif, and i dident really put it in the corners...more like 2 long strips on the side and the i had a strip going between the actual GPU Die and the embedded ram.

Now i dont want to get off topic or anything, but wouldent it be possible to build a New X-Clamp out of something stronger then steel? You know something that doesent bend well in heat.....

Anyway thanks for the helpful tutorial!

It pretty much doesnt matter what it is made of...
The thing puts the heatsinks under pressure and concentrates this force in a tiny little pin under the GPU.
This causes  it to flex, if you dont get rid of them the solder balls will keep breaking...
Here is a thorough explanation of why 360s actually break in case you are interested
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=655662
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M2X

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #51 on: August 04, 2008, 04:32:00 AM »

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 4 2008, 05:20 AM) View Post

LOL looks like Iran badly needs some nuclear plants lol

Thats what I was afraid of foam is not solid and so it wont take it under the same pressure like the solid chip die..
I got a new ROD mainboard yesterday and I just confirmed another time that the height of the credit cards is really perfect.
I held it beside the chip dies and it is exactly as high as these, so I guess this is really the perfect height.

And you can edit your posts for like 30 minutes I guess, after that it locks it.
It is a pretty gay feature though imo because it would make life a lot easier for the topic starters if they could edit their tutorials on their own...


Uhhh... I shouldn't be saying this but this is bulls***. We really don't need no nuclear plants or something. All this power shortage and thing are bulls*** too!! It's just a pretend. They just want to show the world that we really want that while we don't and with these power shortages a lot of people like yourself believe that!!! Imagine the world without any lies...

Ok. Back to the topic...
Like you said these foams are not even close to good. I guess those card pieces will do the trick for now till we find something better.
BTW another thing:
A friend of mine just got some fresh RROD from his falcon! 5mins of playing after he got his box and BOOM! Wtf?!
Now he says the damn thing doesn't ever powero on! I might be able to fix the RROD thing with x-clamp replacement but what about the powering on problem?
And one more thing. He said that the psu led is on green!!! Even while the box isn't powered.
Could this be a short/briged connection or something?
Ps: yeah! This editing thing sucks. Why does it have to be that way?
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Wilhelm_I

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #52 on: August 04, 2008, 06:27:00 AM »

QUOTE(M2X @ Aug 4 2008, 01:08 PM) View Post

Uhhh... I shouldn't be saying this but this is bulls***. We really don't need no nuclear plants or something. All this power shortage and thing are bulls*** too!! It's just a pretend. They just want to show the world that we really want that while we don't and with these power shortages a lot of people like yourself believe that!!! Imagine the world without any lies...

Ok. Back to the topic...
Like you said these foams are not even close to good. I guess those card pieces will do the trick for now till we find something better.
BTW another thing:
A friend of mine just got some fresh RROD from his falcon! 5mins of playing after he got his box and BOOM! Wtf?!
Now he says the damn thing doesn't ever powero on! I might be able to fix the RROD thing with x-clamp replacement but what about the powering on problem?
And one more thing. He said that the psu led is on green!!! Even while the box isn't powered.
Could this be a short/briged connection or something?
Ps: yeah! This editing thing sucks. Why does it have to be that way?

Well looks like they fixed all issues for the awesome Falcon 360s then^^  jester.gif
Try to unplug everything  and then power it up again if it still doesnt work it will not be a short because there is no sign for that like 0001 or a red light at the power supply.
My guess is that the 360 sent the power on signal to the PSU but afterwards the power to the rest is not enabled or so.
As far as I know this power on procedure is managed by the (H)ANA chip, so this might be a cold solder joint under this one...
Could also be an improperly plugged in RF board or a fucked up capacitor or so near the ANA chip as well...

Good luck with this one mate and please post your results and the secondary error code of the ROD if your mate checked it smile.gif
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M2X

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #53 on: August 04, 2008, 10:34:00 AM »

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Aug 4 2008, 04:33 PM) View Post

Well looks like they fixed all issues for the awesome Falcon 360s then^^  jester.gif
Try to unplug everything  and then power it up again if it still doesnt work it will not be a short because there is no sign for that like 0001 or a red light at the power supply.
My guess is that the 360 sent the power on signal to the PSU but afterwards the power to the rest is not enabled or so.
As far as I know this power on procedure is managed by the (H)ANA chip, so this might be a cold solder joint under this one...
Could also be an improperly plugged in RF board or a fucked up capacitor or so near the ANA chip as well...

Good luck with this one mate and please post your results and the secondary error code of the ROD if your mate checked it smile.gif


So the sign for a short is 0001. What about 0002 which I was seeing on another box? In the pinned thread it says it's a network interface error but actually I think it's just a power issue (short or something)

But he said that RROD showed up after ~5mins of gaming and this was a brand new console! What the hell?
I'll see what I can dig up but since my mate doesn't live near me it might take some time till I get my hands on that box.
Anyway I'll be sure to post the results here  cool.gif  (might even find a chance to try the hybrid method too who knows??!)
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Wilhelm_I

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #54 on: August 04, 2008, 02:47:00 PM »

0002 is a cold solder joint under the CPU/ power issue with it.
I cant confirm it completely but all signs are pointing at this.(am like 99% sure that it doesnt have to do with the network chip)
Actually I got someone who is reballing his CPU to fix this one if he can fix it with this I can tell you for sure that it is not network related...
Network related stuff is E75 and E76

Check your PMs by the way...
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Wilhelm_I

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #55 on: August 04, 2008, 07:35:00 PM »

I just wanted to let you know that there is an alternative(maybe better) way to keep the credit card pieces in place until the heatsinks were applied.

All credits for this goes to a guy called jasonelmore1983 who sent me a PM.
His idea is to fasten the credit card pieces with thermal compound, so you might want to give it a try.
If you are unlucky this will cause problems though because the layer of thermal compound may not be much thicker than the tape otherwise you risk that the heatsink doesnt make good contact with the chip die anymore...
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DAEWEZZY

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #56 on: August 04, 2008, 09:46:00 PM »

Hey everyone, first of all I'd like to thank Wilhelm for his excellent, easy to understand, tutorial for beginners like me.  This is the first time I've ever tried fixing any of my consoles, and I've never fiddled around with any circuit boards or anything (middle school was probably the last time I've ever played with one...about 7years ago).

Well here's my problem, I had E74 and did Wilhelm's X-Clamp Replacement to try and fix it.  I just finished doing everything and when I turned it on I still had E74.  So I turned it off and tried it again.  Then I got 3RoL and then 2RoL shortly after.  Then I tried doing the "baking" trick which didn't help.

Any advice is appreciated.  I was thinking about heat gunning next.  But before I do that I wanted everyones opinions first.  Oh...and be easy on me and try to keep responses as close to English as possible (I'm a Business major).

Thanks.
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DAEWEZZY

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #57 on: August 04, 2008, 10:45:00 PM »

Ok, sorry for the double post, but I got my 360 working again. BUT (there had to be a but) right when I boot it up you see the typical Xbox 360 logo then I just get 2RoL.  Again any help would be appreciated.
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Wilhelm_I

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #58 on: August 05, 2008, 03:20:00 AM »

QUOTE(DAEWEZZY @ Aug 5 2008, 07:21 AM) View Post

Ok, sorry for the double post, but I got my 360 working again. BUT (there had to be a but) right when I boot it up you see the typical Xbox 360 logo then I just get 2RoL.  Again any help would be appreciated.

Your 360 is overheating, the heatsink is somehow not making good contact with the chip die.
Did you throrughly clean the chip dies with alcohol to a mirror finish?
And did you afterwards apply thermal compound of the size of a rice grain and afterwards spread it out evenly with a creditcard?
it would also be interesting how many washers you are using and how thick each one is?
Did you tighten the screws snug?

I guess that actually the baking fixed your broken connections under the GPU so the problem will return.
All the sign point at too many washers though so the chip cant be taken under pressure really.
Well we will see...

*EDIT*
Also get your secondary error code for the overheating 0011 is CPU related, 0012 GPU related...
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bosnia_9

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Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #59 on: August 05, 2008, 08:01:00 AM »

QUOTE(DAEWEZZY @ Aug 5 2008, 01:21 AM) View Post

Ok, sorry for the double post, but I got my 360 working again. BUT (there had to be a but) right when I boot it up you see the typical Xbox 360 logo then I just get 2RoL.  Again any help would be appreciated.



what kind of washer setup do you have current? Try removing the metal washers from your CPU heatsink and just use the nylon ones biggrin.gif
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