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Author Topic: X-b.i.t Solder  (Read 123 times)

creepyoldman

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X-b.i.t Solder
« on: June 01, 2004, 08:52:00 PM »

I have given up trying to line up the DO pin. my chip's light comes on when I turn on my xbox, but it loads the original dashboard and the light around the eject button is solid green. I got the software to work, and i verified the bios. just seems as if it's not being detected. so i've decided to solder the chip in, but I have a few questions before I do. Mind you, I am a noob, so please be patient. what is the benifits of soldering versus not? and what do the instructions mean by insulate the pins? insulate with what? any advice would help. :uhh:
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xgeek

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X-b.i.t Solder
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2004, 01:22:00 AM »

LoL well you will only notice a difference if the bios is Xecuter2 or If its a EvoX coloured Bios

Bios's arent friggin dasboards and none of the current mainstream bios's will change the LED Colour (Its people who mess with XBTool and custom bios's)

If you dont know how to solder an Xbox is a bad place to start . You can solder the Xbit in three ways

With Wires - Its a cradle with 11 wires
With The HeaderPins - The long pointy things attached to the chip (shite on the Xbit , dont do a header installation)
Quick Solder - Soldering the Pogo pins (i think lol, never looked into it)


Soldering has benefits because the modchip wont come loose but , and this is a big but. You could kill your xbox if you dont know what your doing

You need the correct tools
15W Soldering iron
1MM Tip for that (Pencil)
30AWG Solder (easier)
Flux (Makes solder stick)
Solder Braid (for removing the Solder out of LPC Holes , i have loads of solder braid its invaluable for any pro installer)
FibreGlass Pen (for D0 Preperation)
MultiMeter (For checking continuity in your points)

I would reccomend the wire for the XBiT cause the headers are shite and ive never done a quick solder so i cant comment on that

With the wires just solder to the  holes with not much solder at all , (the wires are pretinned) and solder the D0 . Sounds simple but the amount of people ive seen trying to install a mod with there hands shaking :D

By the time youve bought all the tools and risk your Xbox's life i would say its not beneficial to most people . if you havent scrapped your D0 you will never get a decent pogo connection go and buy one the Xbox Motherboard is covered in laquer which is why your getting a crap connection

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creepyoldman

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X-b.i.t Solder
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2004, 04:06:00 AM »

hey thanks man. it's hard to find help regarding this. i have a version 1.0, and  i understand that the xecuter isn't a dashboard,  but should't MS be replaced with xecuter if it's connected right? i've checked the dip switch settings multiple times, and it's right. and the diagrams and instructions for the 11 wire solder are very limited as to the information that is given on the DMS page. is the #4 wire(blue) the DO point wire. i know where all the wires are supposed to get soldered to, i just don't know what each wire is. overall, how difficult is this version xbox to solder compared to just screwwing the chip down. because i've been fumbling with the second method for about two weeks now and i'm about to self detonate because i'm so terribly frustrated. i really appreciate the help so far. thank you for tolerating my ignorance.
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ColKurtz

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X-b.i.t Solder
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2004, 06:58:00 AM »

QUOTE
  overall, how difficult is this version xbox to solder compared to just screwwing the chip down


Pretty difficult, or at least pretty risky, for novice solderer... not that I've ever done it.  Before modding my first box, I practiced soldering for a good couple of weeks on some old PCB boards (I would advise the same if you're going the solder route). Even the smallest holes on those boards were twice the size of D0, as I later found out.  I got to where I could solder without a problem 90% of the time, but the careless screw-ups the other 10% of the time might well have hosed my box.  

Even after much practice, when I wussed out after I saw how small D0 was.  I decided on solderless and went with the xbit b/c I liked the USB flash.  I've done 6 since and only on one did I have major problems (turned out to be a bent USB connector pin that prevented me from flashing the chip).

Your problem definately appears to be D0.  You'd be FRAGing without video if your bios was bad.  Have you scraped D0?  Don't underestimate the importance of this.  There's often a thin layer of "rosin" covering D0, preventing it the chip from gettting a good connection.  After scraping, the amount of exposed copper on D0 should be noticeably greater than the surrounding points, or at least "shinier".  This will allow for a better connection.  Cleaning the points/pins with alcohol couldn't hurt, either.

I've had a couple of xbits where I swore D0 was connected but it never booted my BIOS, but after repeated scraping and reseating they've all turned out fine.  You've got your bios flashed, which is the biggest problem with the xbit.  Keep at it.

Good luck.

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opjose

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X-b.i.t Solder
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2004, 10:11:00 AM »

Lol!

D0 is HUGE compared to trying to solder the LFRAME point on the MCPX.

Even with a Microscope it's almost impossible.

D0 is a snap.

Drop a piece of wire wrap wire in the hold and solder away!
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