Print

[grim_d]

1st things first, ALL CREDIT goes to RBJtech for this method, please stop sending me pm's thanking me as i'm not the genius, he is. If you wish to send him a pm thanking him please do so by clicking Here

Please use this thread to discuss RBJtech's X-Clamp Replacement Tutorial. There are 2 versions of this, the MKI and the MKIII, the MKIII is easier than the MKI

The MKIII is available Here

If that fails, then the MKI is available Here



you may discuss things like, alternate parts, troubleshooting etc.

The original X-clamp replacement thread is available Here, it contains much valuable information.

I do not want to see ANY posts which say "Which method is better" or similar, both method's are proven to work, other may find one mthod easier than the other etc.

Once you have performed and X-Clamp replacement, It would be appreciated if you could report your success in This thread.

If you have used lawdawg0931's tutorial and wish to discuss it, please use the specified thread Here

This post has been edited by grim_d: Jul 15 2007, 09:48 PM

[benfinkel]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

Well,  

I'll share my experiences with RBJTech's method:

I turned on my console one morning and got the 3 red lights.  I hadn't been playing, it wasn't in the middle of a movie or anything, just turned it on a dead.  MS wouldn't repair it for free, even though it was a 11/2005 mfg date.  I decided to give this method a whirl.


Everything went mostly as planned.  I only need two washers between the motherboard and heatsink, with three washers I didn't get good contact between chip and heatsink.

Modifying the GPU heatsink to accommodate the nuts was a pain in my rear end.  I didn't have proper tools like a vice and workbench, so it was difficult.  If I were doing it again, I would use a small saw file to cut the fins off and make the room I needed.

I've only played for about an hour with the console since I did the fix, but so far, so good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Question:  There were only eight nuts listed on the parts list at the beginning, so I have nothing between the case and motherboard, correct?  You have a picture in the tutorial of putting a nut to hold the bolt to the case, but then in the parts list those nuts don't show up.


Thanks,

This post has been edited by benfinkel: Apr 21 2007, 02:28 PM

[RBJTech]

QUOTE(benfinkel @ Apr 21 2007, 02:30 PM)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

Well,  

I'll share my experiences with RBJTech's method:

I turned on my console one morning and got the 3 red lights.  I hadn't been playing, it wasn't in the middle of a movie or anything, just turned it on a dead.  MS wouldn't repair it for free, even though it was a 11/2005 mfg date.  I decided to give this method a whirl.
Everything went mostly as planned.  I only need two washers between the motherboard and heatsink, with three washers I didn't get good contact between chip and heatsink.

Modifying the GPU heatsink to accommodate the nuts was a pain in my rear end.  I didn't have proper tools like a vice and workbench, so it was difficult.  If I were doing it again, I would use a small saw file to cut the fins off and make the room I needed.

I've only played for about an hour with the console since I did the fix, but so far, so good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Question:  There were only eight nuts listed on the parts list at the beginning, so I have nothing between the case and motherboard, correct?  You have a picture in the tutorial of putting a nut to hold the bolt to the case, but then in the parts list those nuts don't show up.
Thanks,

Ten 3mm deep nuts come with the Ten bolts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)  So there should be a nut and a single washer inbetween the metal case and the board ...  The nylon lock nuts are the only nuts 'above' the board...

[ydgmms]

Bought a 3RLOD xbox off ebay for ~$100.

Tested it when it got here - straight to 3RLOD.
Took it apart - tightened the black screws on the heatsinks - tested it - straight to 3RLOD.


Mods:
RBJTechs method.
AS5
heatsinks on RAM/SouthBridge
thermal gap filler on all other RAM
I place pieces of felt stopper things around the edge of the CPU/GPU to help keep pressure even around the entire surface area not just the die.

Tested - Works.
Closed it all up - ran Madden 06. Great.


Got lucky too - dash is 4532 with Samsung MS25. If I'm not mistaken thats great for the Linux mods, right?

QUOTE(RBJTech @ Apr 21 2007, 09:43 AM)

Ten 3mm deep nuts come with the Ten bolts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)  So there should be a nut and a single washer inbetween the metal case and the board ...  The nylon lock nuts are the only nuts 'above' the board...

Actually according to Lawdawgs parts list at Lowes. 2 screws come in a package. And there is no nuts.
I dunno, if your talking about your parts list or what. But if hes in the US and goin to Lowes the parts number is fine - it just doesn't come with nuts. Only 2 screws per package... the Nuts are right by the screws if I remember right. And they are 3mm. So its all good. I've done it twice so far.

[benitez1]

I purchased the parts from B&Q(UK), followed RJB's tutorial, switched on my 360 and was getting error 0020, i then loosened the locking nuts on the CPU and GPU, switced it on again, this time i was getting error code 0102 so i  tightened the nuts a little and my 360 gave me the green lights, i've had it running Madden 07 on demo for over 12 hours and no problems.....

[booker]

Ok, i´m going to try this mod fix,because i start getting some freezeing on my 360 with a 3rl afterwards.

My only problem is, that since i´m in other country i don´t really understand what parts i need to buy.

first what is a spring washers and flat washers.. what are the difference between them? I know what htey are but i don´t really understand the difference.

Second, could someone explain me what is the whole idea... of this? i know the concept but... it REALLY IMPORTANT to me to get the idea so i can buy the parts and need withouth "necesary" buying the same parts recommend it on the tutorial. Again because since i´m in other country i may not find the same items as the tutorial ask.

Thanks.

[sinister slipknot]

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 22 2007, 07:42 AM)

Ok, i´m going to try this mod fix,because i start getting some freezeing on my 360 with a 3rl afterwards.

My only problem is, that since i´m in other country i don´t really understand what parts i need to buy.

first what is a spring washers and flat washers.. what are the difference between them? I know what htey are but i don´t really understand the difference.

Second, could someone explain me what is the whole idea... of this? i know the concept but... it REALLY IMPORTANT to me to get the idea so i can buy the parts and need withouth "necesary" buying the same parts recommend it on the tutorial. Again because since i´m in other country i may not find the same items as the tutorial ask.

Thanks.

The idea of this is to eliminate the X-clamps as they force pressure on the board so that after heat/time the chips become loose, supposedly giving the 0102/0020 error.

Flat washers:
(IMG:http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dubq3308.jpg)

Spring washers:
(IMG:http://img.alibaba.com/photo/51061182/Spring_Washer.summ.jpg)

[RBJTech]

ok - there are two main differences between this and lawdawg's method is as follows :-

1. Fixing to the case.

My method secures the heatsinks, board and cpu/gpu to outer metal case - partially the same as the X clamps.  This is done to support the components in the centre of the board - because nothing else does !  Especially important if you have the 360 on it's end ..

2. The compression method.

Whilst lawdawg's simply uses the compression force of the thread on the bolts, mine uses a spring to keep the h/s pressed onto the die.  Depending on the severity of the BGU break (the 'problem') then the spring washer may be irrelevent if you do it up very tighly (as it just turns into a normal washer).  The idea here is to allow thermal movement (expansion) as the h/s heats up/cools down - with a fixed setup, no movement is allowed which could stress the components further.

Picture from the big thread here - showing the setup ..

(IMG:http://rbjtech.bulldoghome.com/photos/BDRES/rbjtech_bulldoghome_com/360heatsink_redesign.gif)

In summary, either method works - lawdawg's is much simplier to implement - mine provides the above advantages but is more complicated to implement ...

Take your pick (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

QUOTE(sinister slipknot @ Apr 22 2007, 08:25 AM)

The idea of this is to eliminate the X-clamps as they force pressure on the board so that after heat/time the chips become loose, supposedly giving the 0102/0020 error.

Flat washers:
(IMG:http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dubq3308.jpg)

Spring washers:
(IMG:http://img.alibaba.com/photo/51061182/Spring_Washer.summ.jpg)

Thanks slipknot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[booker]

QUOTE(RBJTech @ Apr 22 2007, 12:06 PM)

(IMG:http://rbjtech.bulldoghome.com/photos/BDRES/rbjtech_bulldoghome_com/360heatsink_redesign.gif)

I´m going to follow your method because i find your tutorial much simpler...  this one:
http://rbjtech.bulldoghome.com/pages/rbjte..._com/XClamp.htm

But i have more questions.. on the picture you posted... why 1 "leg" is different to the other" i though all Legs should be the same.. with the same amoung ot Spring Washers, flat washers, etc?.

Another question i have a very early Xbox version, i´m not sure if it have the thermal pads on the RAM yet, if that is not the case, do you recommend me to use the "robber" fix so at least i can add some pressure to the rams so they don´t disconnect from the motherboard?

One last question... everyone talk about the X clamp, but all design etc, are from the CPU heatsink. I should do the same proceess with the GPU as the tutorial above explains? or witht he CPU X clamp removal should be enough?

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 22 2007, 06:09 PM

[benfinkel]

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 22 2007, 05:38 PM)

I´m going to follow your method because i find your tutorial much simpler...  this one:
http://rbjtech.bulldoghome.com/pages/rbjte..._com/XClamp.htm

But i have more questions.. on the picture you posted... why 1 "leg" is different to the other" i though all Legs should be the same.. with the same amoung ot Spring Washers, flat washers, etc?.

Another question i have a very early Xbox version, i´m not sure if it have the thermal pads on the RAM yet, if that is not the case, do you recommend me to use the "robber" fix so at least i can add some pressure to the rams so they don´t disconnect from the motherboard?

One last question... everyone talk about the X clamp, but all design etc, are from the CPU heatsink. I should do the same proceess with the GPU as the tutorial above explains? or witht he CPU X clamp removal should be enough?

You'll want to do both the CPU and GPU heat sink.  Both heat sinks are covered in the tutorial.

The reason the picture above shows one leg different than the other is because he's comparing the factory implementation (right) with his fixed version (left).

QUOTE(ydgmms @ Apr 21 2007, 09:46 PM)

Actually according to Lawdawgs parts list at Lowes. 2 screws come in a package. And there is no nuts.
I dunno, if your talking about your parts list or what. But if hes in the US and goin to Lowes the parts number is fine - it just doesn't come with nuts. Only 2 screws per package... the Nuts are right by the screws if I remember right. And they are 3mm. So its all good. I've done it twice so far.

Yea, that's a big difference there.  I also got the parts at Lowe's but the nuts are sold separately.

QUOTE(sinister slipknot @ Apr 22 2007, 08:25 AM)

Spring washers:
(IMG:http://img.alibaba.com/photo/51061182/Spring_Washer.summ.jpg)

The spring washers I used looked like this:

(IMG:http://www.mgcycle.com/95129130.JPG)

[booker]

QUOTE(benfinkel @ Apr 22 2007, 05:50 PM)

You'll want to do both the CPU and GPU heat sink.  Both heat sinks are covered in the tutorial.

The reason the picture above shows one leg different than the other is because he's comparing the factory implementation (right) with his fixed version (left).
Yea, that's a big difference there.  I also got the parts at Lowe's but the nuts are sold separately.
The spring washers I used looked like this:

(IMG:http://www.mgcycle.com/95129130.JPG)

Ohhh.. i feel like this now...  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
THanks for the explanation...

I have a few more questions, sorry but i want to know this proccess 100% before starting..

how is that the "factory" settings apply pressure to the motherboard forcing this to "bend"?

From the picture of comparison i don´t really see why that is happening? is too tight? or what?

Also how tight i should set this setup? i meant the "Lock Nuts" do i should leave some space for movement or i should lock it?

The Washers you guys are using.. the Spring washer... is make of "robber" or what material, i know what they are but i can´t tel what material is from the picture. Same with the Flat washers..

On the picture the S is for the Spring Washer and the w from the Flat washers?

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 22 2007, 06:25 PM

[SnufftheCrimeDog]

Gah, I misplaced my metric drill bits, this was extremely convenient for me because well I could just reach for the 4mm drill bit. But sense when it comes to math and conversions I tend to go brain dead, can anyone tell me what size drill bit would be equivalent to a 4mm bit? In inches of course. I greatly appreciate it.

[RBJTech]

QUOTE(SnufftheCrimeDog @ Apr 22 2007, 07:19 PM)

Gah, I misplaced my metric drill bits, this was extremely convenient for me because well I could just reach for the 4mm drill bit. But sense when it comes to math and conversions I tend to go brain dead, can anyone tell me what size drill bit would be equivalent to a 4mm bit? In inches of course. I greatly appreciate it.

well 4mm is 0.157 inches or 1/16 of an inch - not sure if that's a common imperial drill size or not ?

[benfinkel]

QUOTE(SnufftheCrimeDog @ Apr 22 2007, 07:19 PM)

Gah, I misplaced my metric drill bits, this was extremely convenient for me because well I could just reach for the 4mm drill bit. But sense when it comes to math and conversions I tend to go brain dead, can anyone tell me what size drill bit would be equivalent to a 4mm bit? In inches of course. I greatly appreciate it.

The drill bits I purchased at Lowes were titanium and inly about $4 a piece.  They listed both the "imperial" size and metric on the package.

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 22 2007, 05:52 PM)

how is that the "factory" settings apply pressure to the motherboard forcing this to "bend"?

From the picture of comparison i don´t really see why that is happening? is too tight? or what?

Also how tight i should set this setup? i meant the "Lock Nuts" do i should leave some space for movement or i should lock it?

The Washers you guys are using.. the Spring washer... is make of "robber" or what material, i know what they are but i can´t tel what material is from the picture. Same with the Flat washers..

On the picture the S is for the Spring Washer and the w from the Flat washers?

Answers:

1)  When you have the console apart it's pretty easy to see why the board is being bent.  There is an "x-clamp" on the underside of the motherboard that is pulling the corners of each heat sink down.   Removing those x-clamps and replacing with this solution forces even pressure across the entire heat sink which helps to avoid buckling.


2)  The spring washers are metal also.  All of the washers are metal.  You have the S/W code correct also.  S is spring washer (wave lock washer it's called in America) and w is plain washer.


3)  This setup should be "not very tight" but there should still be ZERO movement.  

Here is how I determined tightness:  I got the lock nut onto each bolt finger tight.  From there, I would turn the nut 1/2 turn on, and then check to see if it "wiggled" at all.  If it did I turned another 1/2 turn.  If it didn't, I moved onto a new nut.  A nut that I had tightened already might become a little loose as I tightened the other three nuts, so I went around the heat sink much like putting lug nuts on your tire.  Eventually, they were all turned in enough that none of them wiggled at all.  The heat sink was held firmly onto the board and did not move at all either.

YOU CAN OVERTIGHTEN, so really once the whole setup is held firmly on and nothing moves or wiggles at all, you should be good to go.  Those spring washers add any additional pressure that is needed as the system expands and contracts with heat.

[booker]

QUOTE(benfinkel @ Apr 23 2007, 03:18 AM)

The drill bits I purchased at Lowes were titanium and inly about $4 a piece.  They listed both the "imperial" size and metric on the package.
Answers:

1)  When you have the console apart it's pretty easy to see why the board is being bent.  There is an "x-clamp" on the underside of the motherboard that is pulling the corners of each heat sink down.   Removing those x-clamps and replacing with this solution forces even pressure across the entire heat sink which helps to avoid buckling.
2)  The spring washers are metal also.  All of the washers are metal.  You have the S/W code correct also.  S is spring washer (wave lock washer it's called in America) and w is plain washer.
3)  This setup should be "not very tight" but there should still be ZERO movement.  

Here is how I determined tightness:  I got the lock nut onto each bolt finger tight.  From there, I would turn the nut 1/2 turn on, and then check to see if it "wiggled" at all.  If it did I turned another 1/2 turn.  If it didn't, I moved onto a new nut.  A nut that I had tightened already might become a little loose as I tightened the other three nuts, so I went around the heat sink much like putting lug nuts on your tire.  Eventually, they were all turned in enough that none of them wiggled at all.  The heat sink was held firmly onto the board and did not move at all either.

YOU CAN OVERTIGHTEN, so really once the whole setup is held firmly on and nothing moves or wiggles at all, you should be good to go.  Those spring washers add any additional pressure that is needed as the system expands and contracts with heat.

Oh god.. i´m so confuse about the spring washers and flat washers.. i though the Sprign washers were rubber... and the falt washers were metal..

So basically all washers are metal?.. what are the difference between them?
Sorry i ask this commong thing, but here in muy country they are called different and i need to know this before purchasing.