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Author Topic: 0603 Smd  (Read 79 times)

jeremybinkley

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0603 Smd
« on: April 02, 2007, 08:08:00 PM »

what side is positive?
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bigg92

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« Reply #1 on: April 02, 2007, 09:21:00 PM »

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RDC

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« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2007, 08:56:00 PM »

The Anode.

On the bottom of most new SMT LEDs is a T, top of the T is the Anode and the line points to the Cathode.

Anode (A) The Positive side.
T
Cathode (K) The Negative site.

(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/SMTLEDBottom.jpg)

(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/SMTLEDTop.jpg)

All of them are NOT marked the same way though, here this one has a sloped side on top to mark the Anode. Best to use a multimeter and tell which is which to make sure before installing them, unless they're clearly marked.

(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Repair/06SMRepair.jpg)

Here is another SMT LED and how the AK are marked.

(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Repair/0603SMTLED003.jpg)

(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Repair/0603SMTLED002.jpg)

...and another one...

(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Repair/0603SMTLED004.jpg)

(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Repair/0603SMTLED008.jpg)

This post has been edited by RDC: Sep 8 2007, 08:08 PM
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Akmzero

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« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2007, 03:58:00 PM »

Hey what side is the + and _ cause all I see when you posted that picture is IPB Image
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HoBoz

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« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2007, 05:17:00 PM »

QUOTE(RDC @ Apr 2 2007, 08:32 PM) *

The Anode.

On the bottom of most new SMT LEDs is a T, top of the T is the Anode and the line points to the Cathode.

Anode (A) The Positive side.
T
Cathode (K) The Negative site.



All of them are NOT marked the same way though, here this one has a sloped side on top to mark the Anode. Best to use a multimeter and tell which is which to make sure before installing them, unless they're clearly marked.




And just how would one test to see which is anode or cathode with a multimeter?
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ruciz

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« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2008, 02:37:00 PM »

diode test. it should actually light up the LED.
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Giga_Death

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« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2008, 05:31:00 PM »

I hate these rediculously small led's, only cos i'm a noob solder apprentice.

I successfully removed them from a pad pcb, but got solder joining both + and _. Tried removing it with braid but ended up destroying the led because the braid stuck.

Any good ideas on handling these once removed. I just need some advice on removing solder. Solder Braid just sticks to it and handling it is a pain.
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ruciz

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« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2008, 05:48:00 PM »

To remove get a very wide tip and flood with solder (or if its wide enough touch both sides of the LED), then slide free from pads and wipe off on sponge. 0603 standards are 1.6mm  x 0.8mm, so you need a tip thats at least 1.6mm across to cover both ends at once. Once cooled use tweezers to hold LED and touch with your iron to remove excess solder from it. Store away for use later in a dime baggy or some other container. Maybe stick to some gift-wrapping scotch tape to keep them seperate and make harder to loose.

To clean your bridged pads just clean off iron and touch pads again with the same wiping motion - solder will flow from one pad to another and should clear the bridge and reside on the iron (unless you got a rediculous amount of solder there, then you need a wick or sucker). REMEMBER NO PRESSURE!!! We are talking RoHS compliant chinese manufacturing here..... pads WILL lift!
You shouldn't need any braid, but when using a braid remember to remove the braid WITH the iron or solder in braid will cool, then you have a HUGE point to try to heat back up to remove. There are also solder suckers or 'soldapulits' which work like a mini vacuum. Heat solder and then suck it away. Soaking the braid in flux may also help you as it wicks away the solder faster.

I recommend getting some blown electronics and practise soldering on those before attempting anything SMT/SMD on good electronics. Remember all current electronics are also RoHS compliant - so lead-free solder, which is a different ballgame when soldering to. Always a good idea to 'tin' all RoHS compliant points with non-RoHS compliant solder to make the job easier (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

This post has been edited by ruciz: Mar 28 2008, 12:50 AM
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EricP2

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« Reply #8 on: September 28, 2008, 10:53:00 AM »

some great info in this thread for us noobs.  I have one question to add, is there a pic or link to which side is the + and - on the controller?  I'm looking to replace my stock SMDs with blue ones today so I'm trying to do all the research I can before doing so.
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Salincer

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« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2008, 11:16:00 AM »

QUOTE(EricP2 @ Sep 28 2008, 11:29 AM) View Post

some great info in this thread for us noobs.  I have one question to add, is there a pic or link to which side is the + and - on the controller?  I'm looking to replace my stock SMDs with blue ones today so I'm trying to do all the research I can before doing so.

Its in the Tutorials. Look for high trace pictures of xxxxxxxxx (put contoller type here). Also, take a sticky note out and write it down. I hate looking for that tutorial.
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EricP2

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« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2008, 11:37:00 AM »

oh okay, I must have over looked it in the tutorials.  I'll check again, thanks
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p4r0l3

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« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2010, 10:18:00 AM »

Thanks for the pics RDC, very helpful
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