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[newuser]

Hi everyone! I'm a new Xbox v1.6 owner and I will soon buy a Xenium ICE. I have read with interest many guides on Xbox modding hosted on this site as well as some others but I still don't fully understand certain things. What I want to do is link my Xbox and my PC. What I don't understand is the stuff I need to do this. Yes, I know that everything's explained in the guides but for a newbie like me and other people it's something confusing in the beginning. I will try to make it as simple as possible. What are the things necessary for successfully linking a PC and an Xbox? From what I have understood by reading the guides, everything I need is the following:

1) Category 5E crossover cable that can be bought here



2) Network adapter similar to this one found here



My Internet comes from a 10/100Mbps LAN card with the RealTek RTL8139 chipset that is connected to a switch linked to my ISP. Is this card going to work for an FTP connection between my PC and my Xbox and is the cable pictured above the right one?

[Xombe]

Yup, you're on the right track.  Here's where you're at plus a little lingo.

I've got the exact same NIC (network interface card) a.k.a. network adapter.  Hell, a whole damn lot of PC's I work with have that RealTek chipset.

Next, the cable: good to go.  CAT5 (re: Category 5E) crossover cable.  


Not sure what you mean by "LAN card ... that is connected to a switch linked to my ISP".  Please elaborate.  I'm imagining you've got one NIC in your PC, and that's connected via a network cable (a STRAIGHT cable) to a DSL or cable modem of some sort (re: your ISP).  What's the deal with the switching?  

Are you planning then to install a second NIC into your PC specifically to hook the XBOX up to (re: two network adapters in your PC case, one going to your DSL/cable modem and the other to the XBOX)?  Really, please tell us more about the switching thing.  I'm just having a hard time understanding.  

You see, what most people who have just the standard one NIC in their PC do is to buy a hub or a router (damn near the same thing).  Like me, I bought a $20  network hub, which has one "in" port and any number of "out" ports (four is common, although eight or more port hubs/routers exist).  You take the cable coming out of the DSL/cable modem and plug it into the "in" port of the hub/router, then plug the cable coming from your PC network adapter into a free "out" port.  You also run a STRAIGHT cable from your XBOX to another free "out" port on the hub/router.

The hub/router moves around all the data from where ever it comes from to where ever it needs to go.  What this setup achieves is:

1) Your PC and XBOX are connected, allowing for PC <--> box FTPing

2) Keep your PC connected to the internet (your ISP) allowing you to use your computer on the internet normally, without having to install a second NIC.

3) Connects your XBOX to the internet as well, enabling you to use the REALLY cool features of apps like Xbox Media Center (watching movie trailers, listening to web radio, playing online with certain games (without XBOX LIVE) by using a PC program called Xlink), and the auto-update features of certain programs.

So, that's the story. Tell me more about want you want to do and we'll see what needs to be done.  Honestly, I suggest the hub setup, as it allows you to connect another PC, XBOX or whatever easily.  Feel free to PM me, not with lengthy messages, but just to let me know you've posted a reply.  I'm all over these forums and may not notice and reply.  Let's keep the discussion here so others can offer advice.

One final question: Do you plan to install the ICE yourself?  Because, no offense, if so, and these kinds of questions need answering, you may want to think about how much more complicated a mod install is (even if you take the slacker way out and go solderless).

[Nightfire-Player]

QUOTE (Xombe @ Sep 10 2004, 12:47 PM)

you may want to think about how much more complicated a mod install is (even if you take the slacker way out and go solderless).

I didnt think the solderless chips worked on a V1.6 because you need to rebuild the lpc?

[Xombe]

Right.  I guess that's what I was trying to say, that a 1.6 ICE mod is no easy feat, so he should be wary if these are the kinds of questions he's starting with (honestly, no offense, I was there once, too

[newuser]

@Xombe: first I want to thank you for your straightforward answer to my questions. Second, I referred to a network adapter when I said LAN card. No, I don't plan to buy a second NIC because it's really not a big deal to switch the card for usage with the Xbox or to handle my ingoing/outgoing traffic. All I have to do is backup the settings such as IP of the DNS server, gateways, etc. and then I can just unplug the cable that links my PC to my ISP and I'm good to go. I don't use a DSL or a cable modem and that's the reason I said "LAN card" and not "NIC card" or "network adapter". As I said my PC is linked with a cable to a switch that is linked with other PCs of the same network, all connected to a central hub that delivers the data and provides connection. Anyway, this is not so important... I will think about the possibility of a connection through router or switch but I would like to get the job done with the FTP link first. And yes, I am planning to install the Xenium ICE myself although I have no previous experience with soldering or any Xbox-related modding. I hope to accomplish this procedure by reading the tutorials out there. As I mentioned before I have a v1.6 Xbox so the solderless method is a mirage for me . I don't feel offended by any means and I appreciate your concern about how I will be able to perform the modchip installation. I know that it's not an easy task and that it requires some experience and knowledge but it's not impossible for a newbie, is it? After all these tutorials were written for people like me. Besides, I have already bought the Xbox and what's more, I am planning to take it home to Bulgaria. You see, I have no choice - either I go for the modchip installation or my Xbox will have to gather dust unused in some corner... I know that my question speaks well for my competence as far as Xbox modding is concerned, but I just wanted to be sure whether I'm on the right track with the cable before I buy it because. I am not familiar with the types of cables too. I am much thankful for your reply. Any warnings or suggestions regarding the modchip installation I am planning to perform in the near future are welcome! Thank you and have a great day!

[Xombe]

First up, good luck with the install.  If you're careful and steady (and go with a pin header install), you ought to be able to do it.  Some people just lay the chip right on the mobo and apply enough solder to connect the proper LPC points and the slots\points on the chip, but I recommend using the pin headers for added stability, ease of positioning/spacing, and less chance of spilling solder and bridging points that shouldn't be.

As for the networking bit, it sounds like you live in a dorm or share a house with a bunch of people (college?/family network?).  Anyway, you're initial choice of cables is just fine.  Make sure it's a crossover type, and your golden.  CAT5 is the shorthand for the kind of cable you have picured above, and it's the standard.

Bear in mind that when trying to FTP into Evox (or whatever) via a box <--> PC link, you have to take a few Network Connection option properties into consideration.  Check this guide out , especially just below the example UnleashX settings, where it says how you have to specify an IP address for your NIC in Windows to get it to work.

But we wll cross that bridge when we come to it.  Feel free to contact me whenever; I'm here damn near every day (but my replys but be at odd times cause I live in Japan, thus understand your issues with returning to a country with a less-than-active modding scene, to say the least).

Peace out,
Xombe

[newuser]

Again you surprise me with a timely reply! It seems you hang around this forum quite often . I have already decided to go for the pin header install just as you recommended. I chose it because it's the easiest method according to the guide. I know that it's hard to tell but how likely is the possibility that I turn my Xbox unusable? Of course I will be extremely careful and I will do my best not to touch anything but the described elements with the soldering iron but after all no one is exempt from mistakes...

As for the networking bit... I was speaking about my PC at home. My LAN card or NIC as it is also called, is connected to my ISP as well as other users that are clients of the same network and users of the same Internet connection. We can share files and talk with each other within this network and that's why in Bulgaria it's common to refer to such networks as local area networks. No big deal, my ISP barely covers a neighbourhood.

I think that I won't have problems setting the necessary things in the Network Connection option properties. Since I haven't read thoroughly this guide (although I have glanced the basic stuff through), I am not quite clear on how to set the IP settings on my Xbox. Is there a menu in EvolutionX that contains the properties for these settings?

Finally, thank you for your support and consideration. I still haven't ordered the Xenium but I will do so tomorrow if not today. And you're right once again - my country has much less than active modding scene.

Meanwhile you take care of yourself .

Best regards, newuser

[Xombe]

No, I'm not here all the time; I just pay close attention to the threads I'm active in (and because there's only like TWO other humans in Japan who know what a modded XBOX is...).

I think I understand what you mean about your network (ever heard of war-chalking?).  But that's beside the point.  All the above guide I pointed out says is that you have to specify an IP address for your PC in order to direct connect (box <--> PC).  If you have a hub/router, it does it for you.  Just do as is says in the guide and set (in Windows) Start --> Control Panel --> Network Connections --> Local Area Network Settings --> Properties -->Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) Properties and set it like so:

QUOTE

Now on your computer go to the properties of the NIC that has a crossover cable connected to the Xbox. Click on the Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) and then properties. Enter the following: IP Address: 192.168.0.2 Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0 Gateway: <leave blank> DNS: <leave blank> That's it. Simple huh? Now set up your FTP Client. For FlashFXP, install the program and run it. Click on "Site Manager" then click to create a new site. Name it Xbox or whatever and for the IP enter 192.168.0.3, verify the port is 21. The default username and password are both "xbox", all lower-case and without the quotes. Go to options and uncheck any check marks on PASV or passive mode if you are using Evox. If you are using one of the other dashes you can leave PASV checked. Apply the settings and connect.

But I think you can already handle that.  As for setting the IP of your XBOX in Evox there IS a menu you can use, but the location varies from version to version, and from skin to skin.  You see, Evox's menus, settings and appearance are defined in a file named evox.ini that sits in the same directory as the program itself (if it's your main dash, then in the C: root).  But it should be easy to find.  

It's like Main Menu --> System Management --> System Settings (or something similar, you'll know it when you see it, cause it's FULL of settings and info.  There's some things you can't change, but you can set your Network Options to Static and then input any IP address you like (i.e. the suggested 192.168.0.3) via an onscreen keyboard.

OR once you get FTP working, you can FTP into your box and edit the evox.ini file similar to this:

QUOTE

Basically you can setup the [Network] Section of your evox.ini to look like this: [Network] SetupNetwork = Yes StaticIP = Yes Ip = 192.168.0.3 Subnetmask = 255.255.255.0 Defaultgateway = DNS1 = 0.0.0.0 DNS2 = 0.0.0.0 You may also have SkipifNoLink and you can set that to No. Also verify your [FTP] Section looks like this: [FTP] Enable = Yes Password = xbox IGR = No

I gotta go now, get back to you later.

[newuser]

Well, thanks for keeping an eye out on my topic because tomorrow I'm going to buy the cable. I don't plan on spending money on a router or switch. I will start modding when I go back home because now I'm in the US and I'll stay here for one month more.

[newuser]

Today I received the FedEx package containing the Xenium ICE. All seems to be in order, the chip is not fake I think. The only thing I don't like about the shipment is that the chip was shipped in a package and not a box. You see, the chip is fragile and it should be put in a more appropriate container. When I opened the package I found an anti-static plastic bag with all the contents inside. I expected the plastic bag and I concluded that there has been some pressure on the bag, judging by the protrusions on the surface on the bag. I just hope that the chip is not damaged. Unfortunately I have not possibility to test it while I'm in the USA .

P.S. I bought the chip from Divineo.

[Xombe]

Yeah, that's how Divineo handles things.  But don't worry, I just got an X2.3b Lite (from their U.S. branch, which actually shipped out of Cananda ) in the same kind of package you did.  Those chips are far stronger than you might expect.   Hell, even their China (re: Hong Kong) branch which I usually go with ships shit the same way. You'll be just fine.

When you actually do get around to installing the chip, how do you think it'll go?  Any reason you're waiting until you get back to Bulgaria?  Have you had any sodering experience?  You ought to read this guide for some good pointers.  BUT, the guild is a bit off on a few points, in my opinion.  For the soldering needle (pencil), I would not recommend the Radio Shack model he shown.  It's not a bad tool, but I like a hotter tip than a 15W one offers.  For reference, I use a 23-watt needle.  Some guides warn that anything over 15W is too hot and will melt your mobo or lift traces or shit like that, but that is no so true, and even less applicable in your case (re: pin header install).  The ancient 23 wire mods that required insane solder jobs had issues like that, but the headers you'll basically be just inserting and soldering are so HUGE that it won't matter.

He is right, though, about the solder diameter.  Thinner is better.  Six mm dia is good for pin headers; I like 3 mm for the d0.  I hope you won't need the desoldering wick (braid), cause needed to use that is just a sign a potentially terrible mistake (which are rare with a pin header install, and you're LPC points aren't filled like they would be on a v1.0 box).

That reminds me, do you have a Torx 10 and a Torx 20 driver(s)?  Don't believe anyone who you tells you you can open the case with a Phillips (+) screwdriver.  Technically, with enough effort, you can get the case off, but the screws holding the HD and DVD drive casings (as well as the mobo) are so recessed (deep in the box) that you'll just mangle the screw heads and then NEVER be able to get the chip installed without a hacksaw.  If you haven't read this whole guide yet, do so now.  It's written by XanTium, and you know he knows what he's talking about (if not, search this forum for his member name   )

Oh, and read absolutely everthing here before even opening your box, cause the v1.6 box Xenium install can be a bitch.  I don't use v1.6 boxes or 4th generation chips yet, so what I say and be sure and apply it to how TeamXodus instructs you.

[newuser]

My chip shipped from Canada too. It's just that I've never received such an item before and I was surprised that they didn't put it in a box or something of the kind.

The reason I'm waiting to do the installation when I return home is that I don't have the possibility to burn a CD with the BIOS to flash the chip. Besides, I will have more free time to read carefully all the guides and perform the installation without any major problems. Currently I'm working as I am an international student on a Work and Travel Program here and what I intend to do requires attention and concentration.

I will buy the desoldering braid just in case although I pray I won't have to use it. I don't have any screwdrivers at my disposal except for a Swiss knife which I think can do the work in case I decide to open the console.

I will do as you recommend. I know that the installation process is hard and even harder for newbies but Team Xodus would have warned the users if the installation couldn't be done by simply reading and understanding the guides and putting a little effort and skill to achieve a success. Isn't that so?

Once again I *GREATLY* appreciate your help and the time that you spend writing these helpful advices and guidelines. I wish you the best of luck.

Best regards, newuser

[Xombe]

Dude, first off, you've got to change your name !  I can't just call you newuser forever...

And, yeah, if you've got a steady hand, you can do the job right.  I just installed my first wire-based mod (which was only actually seven wires) last night, and although it took quite a bit of time and a lot of patience, I got it on the first try (the full mod that is; some of the individual wires took a couple tries to get them to hold firm)!

If you can get a thin (like 1.5 or 2 mm wide) soldering braid for less than $4 USD, then go for it, or find somebody around where you work/live/study who can give you a 5 cm strip or so (you won't need much, if you need it at all).

BUT, and trust me (and the rest of the Teams) on this, you MUST HAVE a Torx 10 and a Torx 20 driver.  You can maybe get the case open with out the larger one (like I said, a Phillips #2 can do it if you're lucky, but once I had a screw that was soooo tight, all the Phillips did was strip it).  If you have a driver head on your knife that matches the outer case screw heads (peel off a rubber 'foot' and try), then you're good there.  But the two Torx 10 two that hold the DVD tray to the case are sunken about 4 cm into the case, deep in holes that can't be gotten to except for STRAIGHT down, in which if any knife tools you have won't reach, a Phillips or flathead driver will strip them, no doubt about it.  Then you'll never get the DVD tray out, which covers the LPC points you're aiming for.

If your low on funds, and can get the CASE open without a Torx 20, at least spend the six dollars on the Torx 10 (the smaller one, in any case, just in case I have the 10 and 20 sizes backwards...   )

The pin headers will be easy to solder, it’s just the additional v1.6 complications that will give you trouble.  Just get a fine tipped needle, 3 & 6 mm diameter solder (with resin core), and some flux if you can find it cheap.  You won’t need much of any of these things, so if while you’re waiting you can get moderate amounts from friends, or beg some spare scraps from a local electronics shop, even better.

Finally, you’re in the U.S., right?  Where at?  Maybe that info could help me find some shit for you.  Please PM me with your email address (hotmail or anything is fine), cause I’ve got to talk to you about something.  If you PM it, no one else will see it.

[newuser]

LoL . I'm still a new user, even without taking into account my knowledge which automatically puts me in the "newbies" category.

I have no idea where I can get some desoldering braid except from RadioShack or the maintenance of the hotel I currently live in.

From the pictures of the screwdrivers I saw on XanTium's tutorial, I can tell from now that I'll have to buy those Torx 10/20 screwdrivers. I found this on RadioShack.com but it's a small tool set and it costs $15. Is there something cheaper or I'll have to go with this one? I'm not sure that this screwdriver can go into the deep hole to reach the screws though because it seems too fat. Can I buy the same screwdrivers pictured on XanTium's tutorial from somewhere?

Yes, you're right. I'm not worried that much about the pin headers as I am for wires. Check your PMs by the way. I'll catch you later.

[Xombe]

Thanks for the PM.  Check your email later.

Don't waste your money on that tool set.

Torx 10 (aka TX10) to get the drives out.

Torx 20 to open the case.

Amazon.com is based in Seattle, Washington, and BuilderDepot is just a subcategory of their business (they used to only sell books, now they sell everything).  The above two items, with shipping was quoted as just under $12 USD (Flat shipping rate of $5).  Radio Shack (if you're ordering online wants only $3.50 for shipping, though.  

The RS set looks okay (and has lots of other goodies which you may or may not want), and the driver is only 1/4 inch in diameter, which ought to work.  But, the bit driver is magnetized, and although it's probably weak, I'm always afraid to use any magnetic drivers or bits anywhere near a hard drive.

Your choice on that one.

For soldering wire: go with this or this depending on how much control you want (the thicker of the two is great for pin headers, but the thinner might be needed for finer points (I still haven't researched the ICE installation guides).

The big purchase will be the soldering needle (pencil).  I paid 2000 yen for mine (and it's a GOOD one), which is about $19 USD.   Check out this one. It's got a 5/32 inch tip (3.9 mm) and a nice 25-watt heat.  This one has a 1/4 inch (6.3 mm) tip and is 30W.  If you were JUST doing pin headers, the second would be great, but the first offers more control and is my recoomendation.