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[$langer]

I just have installed an Alladdin XT 4032 -A into a v1.0 Xbox using wires.  I hate installing these chips into v1.0s because I can't use the pin header (don't want to remove solder from the LPC) and soldering wires to the quick solder area is tedious and error prone.

So the problem is that I have soldered all the wires including D0, L1 and BT yet it appears the modchip bios fails to boot.  I hold down the power button for 1 second and it turns orange then imediatley goes green and the regular M$ bios loads up (no purple evox logo).  These chips come preflashed with the v1.6 compatible M8 (from robotpig.com) as I have used them in several v1.6 boxes with no problems.

On a previous 1.0 xbox I had a similar problem however the xbox would power off and on and then boot the M$ bios; in this current case the xbox never powers off, the eject LED just switches back to green and the M$ bios loads. Because of this, I am wondering if the diagram I used to wire BT and L1 is wrong?  I have heard past complaints about the Xenochiop digrams being wrong so I  would like to clear this up now.  Are the BT and L1 points in the following diagram correct?

http://www.engr.uvic.ca/~ademontb/xbox/ala...diagram_1_0.jpg

If the points are in fact correct, what is the wiring configuration to have the chip awlays on, do I just remove the L1 and BT connections from the chip and ground the D0 point on the mobo?  Does anyone have any ideas what else could be wrong?

Thanks!

This post has been edited by $langer: Jan 7 2005, 08:22 PM

[radish28]

put BT from the chip to ground and d0 from the mobo to ground and the chip will be always enabled.  the points on teh xeno chip diagrams look right but they're hard ot see, just use any other aladdin diagrams (I still use the ones from the Aladdin Advance).\

EDIT: To remove the solder from the LPC is fairly easy assuming your iron has a good tip and can get quite hot.  Just put desolder braid over the lpc hole and stick in the iron, the braid will soak up the solder from the hole and after 1-2secs the hole will be empty.

This post has been edited by radish28: Jan 7 2005, 08:27 PM

[$langer]

QUOTE(radish28 @ Jan 7 2005, 08:56 PM)

put BT from the chip to ground and d0 from the mobo to ground and the chip will be always enabled.  the points on teh xeno chip diagrams look right but they're hard ot see, just use any other aladdin diagrams (I still use the ones from the Aladdin Advance).\

EDIT: To remove the solder from the LPC is fairly easy assuming your iron has a good tip and can get quite hot.  Just put desolder braid over the lpc hole and stick in the iron, the braid will soak up the solder from the hole and after 1-2secs the hole will be empty.

Thanks for the fast response.  Could you please link me to a clearer install diagram?

Thanks

[ModdingManiac]

BT goes to the right of R3G3 and L1 goes to the left of R2G10..Although it sounds like your installation on the LPC might be the problem, recheck the connections.

Also why don't you do a no-wire quick solder method, just place the chip ontop of the LPC and solder that sucker down, I think its alot easier then using wires or trying to desolder the LPC poitns

[$langer]

QUOTE(ModdingManiac @ Jan 7 2005, 09:04 PM)

BT goes to the right of R3G3 and L1 goes to the left of R2G10..Although it sounds like your installation on the LPC might be the problem, recheck the connections.

Also why don't you do a no-wire quick solder method, just place the chip ontop of the LPC and solder that sucker down, I think its alot easier then using wires or trying to desolder the LPC poitns

Yah I suspect the LPC is problem as well ModdingManiac.  I have ensured that the D0, BT and L1 points are correct by using a multimeter and the alternate points.  I would have used the quicksolder method but I'm afraid to solder a modchip to the mobo in case the chip is bad, then it would be very difficult to remove.  I definately need to do something about the LPC, but at this point im not sure what  <_<

[radish28]

if theres a bad chip it only takes about 10cm of desolder braid to remove it...  Still thoguh removing the solder from the holes is the best method

[$langer]

QUOTE(radish28 @ Jan 7 2005, 10:53 PM)

if theres a bad chip it only takes about 10cm of desolder braid to remove it...  Still thoguh removing the solder from the holes is the best method

I agree radish28 that header pin is by far the best method and never gives me problems.  I have had poor results using de-solder braid in the past but I will do as you described previously and hopefully all will go well. I will post my results.


By the way I forgot to mention this Xbox is a refurbished unit.  I don't know if that will have any effect on modding it?

Thanks guys

This post has been edited by $langer: Jan 7 2005, 10:54 PM

[shepd]

Try a vacuum desoldering tool.  Should cost about $5 and works perfect for the job you are doing.

You heat the point up with your iron, and while you have the iron half-over the joint (so that some of it is still exposed, and the iron is still tranferring heat) you place the tool over the joint and let it suck the solder from the hole.  Once you are good with this tool you should be able to clear out all the holes in the LPC port in 2 minutes flat.

HTH!  It's what I have used on dozens of v1.0 / 1.1 xboxes.

[fritz_fx]

I just have to say here from the original post: the images on the xenochip site for the aladin xt chip on a V 1.0 1.1 xbox are definitely wrong. L1 is on the right, BT is on the left (looking at it from the front of the box) as opposed to the instalation diagram where L1 is on the left and BT is on the right.

This post has been edited by fritz_fx: Mar 1 2005, 12:43 PM

[$langer]