Oh well, there we go again...
Sorry for being offline for a while but I had some stress, with school and yesterday conscription got my arse as well(ye we still got this over here).
Sucks pretty much that the government reserves the right to force young men to join the army but thats just the way it is.
As they found me suitable(T2) in the medical and psychological tests it looks like I am gonna be crawling in tactical gear with a G36C through the mud in the near future.
Havent got the letter yet with the date and shit but I am expecting it soon since I am almost done with college.
The whole fun will take at least a year.
I hope they will not decide to send me to Afghanistan to "fight for the peace"(thats the nice slogan of the German army lol)
Wont be online a lot in this time so... hope some of you will miss me at least a bit
Alright, lets see what weve got here.
QUOTE(__Blaz0__ @ Oct 21 2008, 08:52 PM)
Well, like many in this thread my Xbox has taken a straight path the the electronic graveyard. Mid session in a Gears of War game, the screen went crazy with all types of characters. At that point I knew it was busted. I have witnessed a few vid card failures on PC's to know it was gone. Turn box off, then back on. Boom, red light. #4, error code 74. Just reading now, I learned how to test the secondary error code which I will try tonight.
Yesterday I picked up the hardware to swap out the X clamp. The procedure went great. Reattached the GPU heat sink, packed the DVD drive on, and plugged a fan in to cool CPU(At this point, it is just the motherboard sitting on a dictionary with everything loaded up on). Turned on, look to my disbelief, it actually worked. Lights go green and right to dashboard. Turn to my buddy that stopped over and give high fives, etc. All proud of myself I proceed to put everything back together.
I get it all back in place, back to normal, turn on power. What do I see now, back to square one. Light #4 comes on blinking red. I'm not sure if I maybe wiggled something back into place when I was doing the X-clamp fix or what. I plan on borrowing a heat gun tonight to try to give that a go. Has anyone had a similar experience with it working then not? I would love to be able to fix this as I am not just yet ready to plunk down my hard earned cash for something that is not my fault. I take good care of my equipment and feel I am getting the short end of the stick here. I have multiple original Xboxes that have never failed me.
-Blaz0
QUOTE(__Blaz0__ @ Oct 22 2008, 01:41 AM)
extended error code is 1022. checked the AV cable with a good one, not that, n=so I guess only thing left is encoder chip.
E74 is pretty retarded, the 360s just randomly work sometimes even with the 1 red light still flashing but after a couple of minutes the screen will get artifacts etc...
Since the X-Clamp replacement didnt work you will have to give the heatgun a go this works in most cases...
QUOTE(Rickets06 @ Oct 24 2008, 10:29 PM)
Hey guys, my cousins xbox had RROD 0020 (overheating?) and it's been about 4 weeks or so, and it started to freeze during the xbox splash animation and then it red ringed shortly afterwards 0102 (error in the digital back bone, ram, gpu/cpu)
So I tried my own version of your improved xclamp mod Wilhelm and I cleaned up the old thermal paste and added fresh paste.
It didn't work and I tried "baking" for the first time. I put the dvd drive in and put the fan face down on the cpu heatsink (blowing air IN, not sure if that's the best but it's easier)
I waited about 1:30 and shut it off, later on, it was still 0102.
I tried again and baked it for 2:00 and the fan reved up a little so I stopped it. Later on, it was great, I put it all back and played a game, and it froze (no sound, still picture) about 30 minutes in. Turning it on again gave 0102 again.
Took it all apart and baked it for 3:00 and it worked and later I played for maybe 10 minutes and it froze...
So, now, perhaps the fault is under the CPU and I should remove the dvd drive and the fan and let the CPU get hotter...
Or maybe I need to consider tightening my screws a bit as soon as the 360 has gotten hot. Do you think I need to let it cook so long that I get 2 red lights?
PS: hopefully the fault isn't under the ram... maybe I should find a couple washers to put on top? But I have a feeling the MOBO needs to be heatgunned
Guys, thanks so much for reading and shedding light on all this stuff, you're amazing
Overheating is not gonna fix it no matter how long you wait...
Adjust the tightness of the screws, make them tighter, just a bit you dont want it to get back 0020 if it does loosen them a bit...
If you cant make it go away at all you will have to heatgun it...
QUOTE(strife18 @ Oct 24 2008, 11:28 PM)
Hey,
So i can get my xbox to work again after heatgunning. It goes green lights and everything for a couple days and then stops and goes back to the 0102 problem initially. It is the same as before Im using nylon washers less thermal paste and have not received any overheating issues at all. I use the credit card pieces on the corners too. I do not move the Mobo until cooled and I do not move the Xbox after playing for the few days so I can't blame it on something hitting something loose. You saw the pictures before and everything seems in place and I'm having a hard time explaining why it stops if I change nothing. I know your prevailing theory is uneven pressure/stress on the mobo creating bad connection on GPU/CPU but there is no stress being put on them. There is holes in the chassis giving plenty of room for my screws, the only other thing putting pressure on the mobo is the weight of the heatsinks and the screws holding the mobo in the case.
Do you have any other theories or anything that I may be overlooking in the ways of pressure or stress?
Try to tighten the screws down more and see if this helps, it somehow looses contact after a bit again, and make sure that the cc pieces got the perfect height, that the actual chip die makes good contact but I guess I have told you already about that so just ignore it if you did it already...
QUOTE(CrackHour @ Oct 25 2008, 04:21 AM)
Hey I think all this work you guyz have done to try and help with these issues are great and all, but instead of going through all the trouble with gpu dies, clamp pressure and so on, wouldn't it be easier to try and eliminate the real culprit which is heat. If you cooled the hell out of the box, wouldn't this prevent the board from warping to the point of dislodging the gpu or other components. How much would you need to cool it by to eliminate these problems. These solutions seem more reactive than proactive, not knocking them if they work. Just wonder if another approach is needed. I mean if Microsoft is designing smaller chips to put in newer versions and eventually two chips on one die and smaller chips mean less heat. Then it's pretty clear that the real issue is heat. Obviously once the damage is done, it's too late. But if they (Microsoft) sees excessive heat as the problem, then sounds probable that a good way of preventing these types of problems would require excessive cooling. No?
Ye it is recommended to keep it as cool as possible this will prevent the deformations by heat.
However you must regard that there is always flexing no matter how warm it is, thanks to the X-Clamps and other design flaws that cause static flexing...
Falcons are failing more and more as well the older they get, just like the Xenon models, the cooling just makes it last slightly longer...
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Topic: Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement (Read 2921 times)