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[RDC]

Did it work before?

Did you do or solder anything on it but the LEDs?

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=581887

D18, R34 or C49 could be bad, or a damaged trace or via between the DL pads and the MCU. Really hard to guess without seeing it.

[RDC]

D18 is on the bottom of the board, between the bottom right corner of the MCU and the Left Trigger, D16 is also beside it.

If you can get good pics or scans of the board it may help, but anything out of focus or taken too far away isn't going to do any good.

[RDC]

Never have power connected when testing Ohms, because even when it's off, it's not really off. You don't want an kind of power source connected at all. Make sure the battery(ies) in your DMM are good as well, as any low ones will cause all manner of incorrect measurements.

Pull the batteries or whatever you're using to power the controller and measure R34 again, it should measure around 4.7kOhms.

Measure the voltage from Ground to that DL1 spot in my pics, it should have 1.5v on it. If it does that's good, if there is no 1.5v there then it needs replaced.  

If you have 1.5v at D18, then you need to check for voltage again, but at the right hand side of the D-pad Left contact pad (right where it says K3) and see if the 1.5v is there. If there is no 1.5v at the contact pad then you have a bad Via between D18 and that spot. If there is 1.5v at the contact pad, then you have something I haven't seen before.

[RDC]

Let me clarify my previous post, you'd need it powered up to check for a Voltage, just never when checking for (ohms) Resistance.

If R34 still measures around 100Ohms after checking it correctly, then  first look for any solder splash across C49 and/or R34 that could be  causing the lower resistance reading. If any is found clean/remove it,  then check again. If it's still measuring 100Ohms then remove C49 and  check again, if it's still 100Ohms then remove R34 and test to see if the D-pad Left works.

My guess would be some solder splash around C49 or R34, as it's really, really odd for a Resistor to change value that much, not that it can't happen, but it's usually because the thing was fried.

[RDC]

Never bridge any pads where a component was installed.

Measure the Resistance on the pads where R34 was.

You're sure that every other button still works? The Sync, Left Bumper and the Right Stick Click (right stick button) mainly.

If they all work and you're still getting 100ohms on the R34 pads, then you've got a pretty good one there. The only thing left that I'd try would be an MCU swap, as something has to be up with that thing internally, since everything else seems to be checking out alright. PM me if you're interested in troubleshooting that thing any further.