| QUOTE |
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...t%5Fid=276-1778 from radio shack
With an 100 ohm resistor it would take the 5v to 3v, would it work with that and a 100 ohm resistor or what?
|
ya, bump that question =P
Try out this version:
http://cheaplpc.com/...ipboard-new.png
I made it after building a HUGE bunch of breadboard CheapLPC's. Little by little I optimized the design.
Yea, i was going to use that Diagram i saw, but i cant make out what the little brown circle and such are x.x
| QUOTE (animex2 @ Feb 11 2004, 01:27 AM) |
| QUOTE | http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...t%5Fid=276-1778 from radio shack
With an 100 ohm resistor it would take the 5v to 3v, would it work with that and a 100 ohm resistor or what?
|
ya, bump that question =P
|
this won't work as the resistor in series with the rest of the circuit will only limit the current available, not the voltage. You need to use a voltage regulator.
-nB
Be more specific. Usually a black dot means that its making contact.
The components are on the main cheaplpc website.
2 diodes will drop it and so will a LED after the forward voltage of 1.7 for red. Best bet is the strip board version and usb power. Radio shack only has voltage regulators down to 5v last I checked.

I dont get what the things i circled are, the orange, grey and orange thing...
| QUOTE (hippo @ Feb 12 2004, 12:37 PM) |
| 2 diodes will drop it and so will a LED after the forward voltage of 1.7 for red. Best bet is the strip board version and usb power. Radio shack only has voltage regulators down to 5v last I checked. |
They do have LM317T's which are adjustable down to 1.2 volts.
| QUOTE |
| I dont get what the things i circled are, the orange, grey and orange thing... |
the purple and orange thing are capacitors to smooth any ripple present and to provide stability in the regulator (grey) this is common (and good) design practice.
so i need to get 2x volt capasitators (different number for x im assuming) and a LM317T? what would the X be for each one? (orange and purple)
generally you would use a 1µF (micro-farad) 16V cap where the purple one was and a .1µF monolithic cap for the orange one. You should be able to get these darn near anywhere. If not you have my e-mail, cover postage and paypal fees and I'll hook you up (only prob there is that the mail is so much slower than running out to radio shack)
-nB

now, if anyone can make anything from that Diagram i modifyed, does that look right?
assuming all the lines are insulated wire and such...
also, ignore the part at the bottem that says socket....
anyway I'll make up a schematic over the holiday weekend and post it both here and on my site.
-nB
| QUOTE (animex2 @ Feb 13 2004, 04:33 PM) |

now, if anyone can make anything from that Diagram i modifyed, does that look right?
assuming all the lines are insulated wire and such...
also, ignore the part at the bottem that says socket.... |
ya, i updated the picture if its easier to understand...
I know what parts these are but I still cant make out your connextions.... Also which CAP is which? Schematic up by tonight (maybe late)
-nB
I just ran out to Radio Shack... They didnt have Exactly what you said.... But im hoping this will do...
I got the LM317T (lucky me, the last one they had)
a 0.1µF Ceramic Capacitor (50WVDC Max)
and 1.0µF Tantalim Capacitor (35WVDC Max)
will those work?
and on the schematic i made.... The one on the top is the 0.1.µF, the middle is the LM317T, and the bottem is 1µF
Alright, those are 2 capacitors and 1 voltage regulator.
I dont know WHY ppl have been suggesting the LM317T, thats a variable voltage regulator, where you need extra resistors to select the output voltage. WASTE.
You just need 1 3.3v Regulator, a common part number is 78l033
The parts you asked about..
1 - 0.1uf Ceramic Capacitor (Stabilizing output)
1 - 10uf Polarized Radial Capacitor (Stabalizing input)
1 - ZR78L033
Good Luck.
so using the LM317R, 0.1uf Ceramic cap, and 1.0uf Tantalum Cap will not work?
If not, will it work with the right kind of resistors?
If so, what ohm resistors?
btw
i searched google for ZR78L033 and 78l033 but didnt find anything or any place i could buy them....
your missing 2 components ( a pairt of resistors) if I forgot to tell you that, then my bad. I'm feeling quite under the weather at the moment so the schematic I promised will be up tommorow (hopefully).
-nB
by any chance do you know what ohm resistors?
::EDIT::
BTW NB....
Im assuming 1uf (35WVCD) Tantalum Capacitor and 0.1uf (50WVDC)Ceramic Capacitor are acceptible to use?
caps are fine. and here is the schematic:

The caps are as you already have (100nF is .1 µF) the resistors are:
R1 = 240 OHMS
R2 = 400 OHMS
sorry about the lag in answering.
-nB
| QUOTE (greengiant @ Feb 14 2004, 01:28 AM) |
Alright, those are 2 capacitors and 1 voltage regulator.
I dont know WHY ppl have been suggesting the LM317T, thats a variable voltage regulator, where you need extra resistors to select the output voltage. WASTE.
You just need 1 3.3v Regulator, a common part number is 78l033
|
that's fine when you can find the parts, but these are not as common as the 317's.
More parts, yes, but also available everywhere.
-nB
the closest numbers i could find at radio shack for the numbers you want are -
220 ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film (240 you wanted, 20 to low)
and
330 ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film (400 you wanted, 70 to low)
or
470 ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film (400 you wanted, 70 to high)
=/
use the 220 ohm, that's fine, but buy their 5 pack of 10 resistors and place 4 in series with the 330 ohm (thus making it 370 ohm)
That will get you 3.35 volts out which should be fine.
-nB
5 pack of 10 ohm resistors?
::EDIT::
if thats so, i know i have at least 4 100 Ohm resistors.... I could link them up in a series making it 400 ohms...
and this may be pushing it... but i should have at least 6 100 ohm resistors....
2x 100 == 200 ohm for R1 (40 to low... if this is too low i can just get the 220s)
4x 100 == 400 ohm for R2
| QUOTE (networkBoy @ Feb 14 2004, 06:25 PM) |
caps are fine. and here is the schematic:

The caps are as you already have (100nF is .1 µF) the resistors are: R1 = 240 OHMS R2 = 400 OHMS
sorry about the lag in answering. -nB |
ok....
So the 5v should go to pin 6 on the programmer.... 3.3v should go to pin 9... and the 0v should go to pin 2?
Also... Where does USB Pin 1 and 4 come into play? x.x
400 and 220 ohm would work out to 3.52 volts, which is too high.
200 ohms would be enven higher
-nB
so i want 400 (4x100) and 240 on the dot... (1x 220 + 2x 10)
that would work out good, right?
::EDIT::

Is that right?
| QUOTE (animex2 @ Feb 14 2004, 11:37 PM) |
so i want 400 (4x100) and 240 on the dot... (1x 220 + 2x 10)
that would work out good, right?
::EDIT::

Is that right? |
yes you want those values on the dot. as to the pin outs I am not at my comp at the moment so I'm not sure....
-nB
The 3.3v regulators are as common as the lm317, actually more because they are more used.
I forget who is actually building this circuit now, but your only complicating yourself.
There are variouse companies that make the voltage regulators, ZR is a common one, but there are others.
ZR - http://www.zetex.com/3.0/pdf/zr78l.pdf
Simple search on yahoo,
http://search.yahoo....n=20&fl=0&x=wrt
Reveals parts from NS, TPS LT, and MANY other companies. Digikey has some 12 to choose from for example.
Saves you the hassle of the wiring up the extra resisotrs for the Lm317, as well it saves you the trouble of finding the exact values.
With the SST you cannot provide more than the specs (you can upto 3.5 even 3.7 at low current) or else you kill the chip, if you go lower than 3.2 the chipp will give you erraditc responses.
| QUOTE (animex2 @ Jan 21 2004, 02:20 AM) |
 |
so

in the diagram i have quoted the 0v is pin 2, and the 3.3v is pin 9, so im assuming i was correct before?
yup
-nB
alright, thanks for your help NB and Green Giant and everyone else =)
Ill be building this Tuesday and hope it works, Lmao...
er, one last quesiton, how do i know what is pin 1 and 3 on the LM317T? (obviously the middle is 2) should I be looking at the metal part at the top or the plastic part?
Well, the very first 5 units I made I used the LM317 cause I didnt know better.
I made a diagram, long time ago, which I was trying to find for you. Found it, So here it is.

Also, for the pins. Its standard, usually.
You will need to check the datasheet. I have encountered 2 types of LM317 where 1 has Vin GND Vout, and the other is Vout gnd Vin. When looking at the flat side.
Heres some VERY useful links for the LM317.
http://www.qsl.net/ok1duo/lm317.htm <- Schematic + Resistor value calculator for it.
http://casemods.poin...rn.org/vregtut/ - A tut on how to build a Vreg for fans, using the LM317
http://members.aol.c...aysaver/p3.html - For some playstation hacking thingy, but they use the LM317. Middle of the page has some 5 pictures of the variouse chips, and the pin outs. (Theres the LM317LZ, LM317T) LZ is the more common, lower voltage version.
Well have fun with your project.
I was reading thtough this post because I am building the same thing, and I have a Question...
Why do we need to use the voltage regulator and capacitors?
Can't we just use a voltage divider circuit?

two resistors, and bam! We are done. (a lot cheaper than the voltage regulator) Using a 10ohm and 20 ohm resistor would bring the 5 volts down to 3.3.
Is there a reason why this shouldn't work?
Info and calculator borrowed from:
http://hyperphysics..../voldiv.html#c1
You could use the south end of a red LED at 5v 220 ohms should leave 3.3 volts after the forward voltage of 1.7v or simply use 2 diodes in series to drop 5v to 3.6 or so. IMHO a regulator is just alot of extra work.