Post by: shambles1980 on June 14, 2011, 07:41:00 PM
Ive always softmoded started hotswapping and eventualy bought an explotable game, i moded a Stype controller to accept usb pendrives / SD cards so i can easily transfer files to any given xbox.
I have no problems upgrading hard drives and never had a problem i couldnt fix by my self, so as the title says..
Is there any reason to tsop now ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
oh and i have a couple of xboxes so i wouldnt be doing it to the 1.6 as from what i read that even more pointless than others
This post has been edited by shambles1980: Jun 15 2011, 02:44 AM
Post by: xboxmods2977 on June 14, 2011, 08:13:00 PM
Post by: shambles1980 on June 14, 2011, 08:19:00 PM
ah well il find a diferent project to work on lol.
probably going to be a pc based mame cabinet though.
Post by: hangover on June 21, 2011, 08:40:00 AM
Post by: big F Mk II on October 30, 2011, 05:45:00 PM
Several run without DVDs (slims) and one has two harddrives. The mod chips I have left are only gonna be put in my modifiable 1.6's that I have in storage. I'm definitely not looking to get any more mod chips for them not when I can pick up an Xbox of eBay for £5 and a mod chip cost twice that at least.
That said I still soft mod most of them just to get teh TSOP on them as I have my own dvd disc set up just for that.
I use my Eprom reader to get the HD lock info from the board and then swap it for my preconfigured HD and matching Eprom file with all the softmod and TSOP stuff pre installed, its really which ever way takes my fancy at the time.
Post by: xboxmods2977 on October 31, 2011, 01:59:00 PM
QUOTE(big F Mk II @ Oct 31 2011, 12:45 AM) 
The mod chips I have left are only gonna be put in my modifiable 1.6's that I have in storage.
Might I suggest that you get them out of storage now, install chips on as many as you can, and then remove their clock capacitors, otherwise, you will end up with a stockpile of fragging consoles. The clock caps will inevitably begin to leak and subsequently kill the boards via acid corrosion. The Xbox is one console that does not store well and that clock cap leak is similar to a growing cancerous tumor. The quicker they are discovered, the better.
Post by: big F Mk II on October 31, 2011, 06:05:00 PM
I was not aware that the issue was still with the 1.6. I thought it was only really the 1.0 1.1 1.2 etcThe 1.6's are all fine the only boards I have with an issue is a 1.2 and it cleaned up ok and a 1.1 that didn't fair so well it is now spares, Mem upgrade
Is the current thought still to yank them and replace with something more reliable or just to yank it and not have one.
Post by: xboxmods2977 on November 01, 2011, 12:01:00 PM
It could be true that the clock caps in the 1.6's are less leak prone. It's up to you whether or not you want to take the risk.
One option is that you could replace the caps and then, without applying power to the consoles, put them back into storage. This way, the caps would not ever have been charged, and shouldn't leak.
This post has been edited by xboxmods2977: Nov 1 2011, 07:09 PM
Post by: big F Mk II on November 01, 2011, 05:22:00 PM
IIRC I already have an error 16 fixed bios. one way to find out would be to pull one and see what happens. As far as the 1.6's are concerned I may just look for a cap that will do the job and swap out, we all know how much a PITA 1.6 can be modding anyhow, so I don't to increase my chances of getting a new Xbox door stop.
In the old days Amiga computers used rechargable nicad packs for the RTC, they are now 20+ years old and my A2000's one has started to leak in the same way as the Xbox, although not as destructive providing you dont power up before cleaning.
The modern replacement is to fit a CR2032 battery and a diode to stop the Amiga trying to charge the CR2032 bat, thus making it like a modern IBM clone PC. Once the bat runs out chuck it and replace, may be something similar would work on the Xbox.
I have a digital clock that works on a CR2025 which is similar to a CR2032 and I retrofitted it with two 1.5 AA bats to make the 3V, as it only lasted a year on the CR2025 three and a half years later and it is still going. Plenty enough room in the Xbox for that kinda thing.
This post has been edited by big F Mk II: Nov 2 2011, 12:27 AM
Post by: xboxmods2977 on November 01, 2011, 11:35:00 PM
Another option would be to use a rechargeable NiMH battery pack from a cordless land line phone. The 2 cell packs output 2.4 volts and should work perfect. I might try this too. Once one of these baby's are fully charged, they will hold the clock for a long time.
Post by: big F Mk II on November 02, 2011, 02:32:00 PM
The stand up ones would be perfect for use in the XBox and are also ideal for use in Amiga's.
Putting both a resistor and a diode to stop back charge would be easy. would also work for small nicad packs, although you'd want to omit the diode to allow charging.
Gonna have to give it a try.
Post by: big F Mk II on February 02, 2020, 05:22:00 PM
I then added a diode which I had already in stock and removed the old Aerogel and cleaned up the Mobo soldered on and set it up the time in XBMC to get the time from the internet. Switched it off and un-plugged the lan cable and power cable, and left it for a week.
Switched on minus the lan connection and the time was in sync with my T.V which gets it's time from the internet same as the Xbox.
Basically I repeat this once a week and 6 weeks later it still holds time.
I guess you can say it works, certainly enough for my needs, where the box my be disconnected from the network and unplugged etc.
If anyone wants I can post a pictorial how to and parts list and where to get etc. Just PM me
Post by: SmallAntelope on February 04, 2012, 12:17:00 PM
QUOTE(big F Mk II @ Jan 20 2012, 12:22 AM)
Ok soon after my last post I bought some coin cell PCB mount holders and a pack of really cheap CR2032's from Poundland (U.K based cheap shop), my figuring was cheap batteries wouldn't last so long and would show up any short comings in doing this mod.
I then added a diode which I had already in stock and removed the old Aerogel and cleaned up the Mobo soldered on and set it up the time in XBMC to get the time from the internet. Switched it off and un-plugged the lan cable and power cable, and left it for a week.
Switched on minus the lan connection and the time was in sync with my T.V which gets it's time from the internet same as the Xbox.
Basically I repeat this once a week and 6 weeks later it still holds time.
I guess you can say it works, certainly enough for my needs, where the box my be disconnected from the network and unplugged etc.
If anyone wants I can post a pictorial how to and parts list and where to get etc. Just PM me
PM'ed, a pictorial would be very useful. Cheers!