Post by: maxgeek on January 22, 2004, 08:14:00 PM
The wire install is about 10 wires and you do mount it on the side of the inside of the xbox. It should come with wires and if you do the wire install it should be pretty easily with the soldier already in the holes. You won't need to use much solder to get the wires to stick and in some cases u can just heat up one the filled holes with a wire over it and it will stick. Most wires are not small enought to go through a D0 point.
BTW did u get your name from the .Hack series
Post by: Blackrose on January 22, 2004, 09:32:00 PM
Post by: Sahbiot on January 22, 2004, 09:32:00 PM
Sah
Post by: archmage164 on January 23, 2004, 06:15:00 AM
Post by: Tidusblitz111 on January 23, 2004, 07:33:00 AM
Don't be so freaking gay dude... I just got my xbox on christmas, and I am only 12. I figured hey, I can't get a job, so why don't I do some work for my parents? I did and raised sixy bucks to get my mod from xbox wired in 3 days. Well, while I was waiting, I decided to break open my cybiko and desolder and resolder the audio, the power supply and the video wires. I have never soldered in my life, and I did it all with no cold joints...it was perfect!So I say go with quick solder, after all, there is really only one wire you need to solder and that is the d0! the rest is easy, you just let the solder flow onto the Pads...
I am going to solder my chip with the Quick Solder, I suggest you do the same....just practice disconnecting and soldering old electronics you have around the house and yuo will be fine with your xbox! :
Post by: Tidusblitz111 on January 23, 2004, 08:24:00 AM
| QUOTE |
| originally posted by dmdb " I'm wondering about the PIN header" |
If you are not a great solderer you can get microbridges, which can mess up your box if you go pin-header, and that is why I say go quick solder(even if you do have to buy 1 wire.)
Post by: moistness on January 23, 2004, 08:28:00 AM
| QUOTE (Tidusblitz111 @ Jan 23 2004, 06:24 PM) | ||
like I said before,
If you are not a great solderer you can get microbridges, which can mess up your box if you go pin-header, and that is why I say go quick solder(even if you do have to buy 1 wire.) |
A pin header is FAR less likely to cause problems than the quicksolder method! At least you have a chance of removing the pin header if needs be without lifting every trace on the lpc!
The lpc is DESIGNED to have a pinheader installed into it! why do you think its shaped that way!?
Post by: Blackrose on January 24, 2004, 05:49:00 AM
Post by: cyko500 on January 24, 2004, 09:05:00 AM
First, you are going to tin the iron:
1. Get it nice a hot.
2. apply solder liberally (don't be a dumbass and have it dripping everywhere
)3. Get a good portion paper towel, at least a few layers thick. Soak it in water and wring it out.
4. Use the wet paper towel to wipe the excess solder off of the iron
You do this because it makes the solder flow MUCH more easily off of the iron, and you won't need anywhere near as much solder.
If you have multistranded wire you are going to need to tin the wire if it already isn't done:
1. Twist the wire so it is all in one nice bunch.
2. Apply some rosin to the wire (if you have the paste just dunk the exposed wire in it.
3. Now take your freshly tinned iron, apply a very small amount of solder to it (just touch it lightly to the solder to get a little) and apply the soldering iron's tip to the exposed wire.
4. repeat as necessary.
Now that you iron is tinned and all your wires are tinned you are ready to solder.
1. Apply a small amount of rosin to the point you are soldering to. Too much IS a bad thing. Some will say it isn't but too much will make the solder roll off if the rosin is boiling. Don't be too paranoid, though. You'd have to have A LOT for that to happen. Just take a toothpic, thumbtack or whatnot and dip it in the rosin. Then touch the tip to the point and you have enough.
2. Place the wire on the point you are soldering to. Don't be a pansy about this..... keep your finger as close as possible to the point to hold the wire down. We don't want it moving about.
3. Time to solder.... With a small amount of solder on the iron (just touch the iron to the solder lightly) touch the tip of the iron to the point. Don't leave the iron in place for more than 2 seconds at most, but don't count out 2 seconds in your head either. Just get the iron in and out as fast as possible (usually for me I just tap the iron on the point and it's soldered on electronics). The wire SHOULD attach easily. If not you either have too much or too little rosin.
The above will work great for the v1. A special note about that d0 point. It will help if you tin that point first. Just put some rosin on that bare point and apply a little solder to it before you solder it. That will make it much much easier.
I'd add a guide to fill in those points on the other versions, but it'd be a waste of time...... just use the pin header.
Hope this helps you out.
Post by: dmdmb on January 24, 2004, 09:21:00 AM
.
Post by: MyUtopia on January 25, 2004, 12:32:00 PM
| QUOTE |
| I kept adding solder until it started create a small ball around the base and a good solder |
Not quite right...the solder in a shape of a ball is not a good solder joint - this is typically what is called a dry joint.
You will want a "cone" shaped solder joint. The ball look is due to excess varnish on the board and the LPC - all the solder is not taking to the ring of the LPC. When you have a cone shape - most of the solder has taken to the ring.
You will need to either keep your soldering iron there a little longer to melt away some of the varnish - or scrap some off (be careful tho). I usually use a small cone shaped sander (usually available for dremel - but DO NOT USE A DREMEL - use your fingers to turn it). That or a small phillips - or a screwdriver or a knife point.
Best Regards,
MyUtopia