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OG Xbox Forums => Modchip Forums => Team Omega Chips (DuoX) => Topic started by: TonyF11 on October 05, 2006, 01:55:00 PM

Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: TonyF11 on October 05, 2006, 01:55:00 PM
What exactly does the D0 do? Why when it's not connected does the xbox boot fine? ya know?

The DO makes ur Xbox boot the LPC. If the LPC is shoddy or not correctly done then ur gona get probs. No disrespect but re and re check ur LPC.
Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: Chancer on October 05, 2006, 03:35:00 PM
I agree with TonyF11. The problem is LPC related, could be ahairline crack round one of the points that is masked with solder but noyt connected. You need to follow each LPC point back to the nearest via or solder pad and check from there.
Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: allroy1975 on October 07, 2006, 01:45:00 AM
alright, reflowed everything tonight.    Still same exact thing.  I went through every pin on the chip.  

I had put the female part of the pin header on the mobo, so I ended up gently just pulling that off all the pins.  Then melted the solder and each littl Y shped pin popped out no problem.  So now I've cleaned the holes and everything LOOKS okay.  Does anyone have a set of test points to verify that everything with the LPC is working properly?

That would be AMAZINGLY helpful.

anyone?  bueler?  biggrin.gif

Thanks guys.  I can take pics if anyone wants to see the condition of the board...
Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: Chancer on October 07, 2006, 09:48:00 AM
IPB Image
Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: NOZb2k on October 17, 2006, 11:23:00 AM
This thread was a real help, thanks.
Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: bacardi/avt on December 13, 2006, 11:01:00 AM
This looked to be just the right solution to my problem, I had the same symptoms that allroy had.

I went over all of the points and they all have good connection (my multimeter beeps), but still not working.

Now I am all out of ideas, could it be the chip itself?

Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: bacardi/avt on December 13, 2006, 06:52:00 PM
Did a new check and sure enough there was no connection at one of the points on the LPC (I had managed to break the circuit on the MB). An easy fix when I found it.

Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: gretz on December 27, 2006, 11:41:00 AM
I'm grappling with the same symptoms:
    duox 2 gs cromwell (white) chip.
    rev 1.0 board.  I used a solder sucker to pull the solder out of the holes before installing the Berg header.
    cycles power 3 times, stops with flashing red and green power led's
    same thing happens with the chip pulled off the header.

    I used the fixnchips.uk diagrams for the installation.  Excellent pictures, and I like having a connection to the BT point that's on the system board, instead of on the front panel.

Thanks for the images of the test points.  I'm guessing I've got to shave off the varnish to get to the traces.

The link for the duox2_troubleshooting.htm document (given in another thread) is not functional.

After first trying to attach a wire to the top side D0 point (and possibly FUBARing that), I realized the underside point was probably easier to reflow and poke the wire in.  To repair the topside D0 point, I scraped off the varnish on about 3/16" of the trace leading away from the via, poked a piece of 30AWG kynar wire through, bent it to follow the trace,  soldered it top and bottom, and once it was secure, snipped the wire next to the trace.  I get continuity from the patch to the alternate D0 point, but I'm looking for the location on the top side that this signal originates (further upstream).  I lose track of it in the vicinity of the Nvidia chip.  If someone knows where this signal line comes out, I'd appreciate it.
Title: Xbox 1.0 With Duox2 Gs Fragging
Post by: gretz on January 17, 2007, 09:09:00 PM
Well, I used the test points in the diagram, and I have continuity to all of the places indicated.
When I take the chip out, it will boot to the normal MS dash.

I reflowed all of the points on the header, and put the chip back on.  I shorted the BT pad to pin 9, and resoldered D0.  

I purchased two GS kits, and they both do the same.  

Any ideas?