Bank 0 is all other xbox's
check chancer's duox2 install guide and it will guide you through the install using both the female and male headerpins and you can remove the black plastic switch protector , it just keeps the switch safe during transit.
do as antz1970 said and tidy up your lpc rebuild it looks like you used garden hose to do the install. Use wire wrap next time 30 awg ( very fine single strand wire with heat resistant coating ) strip only 1 or 2 mm of the ends of each wire.
http://fixnchipz.co.uk/inst-guide.html
HackDaBox !
The problem is clearly the soldering and the rebuild. The Lframe point looks like it could be soldered to every via round it and the LPC connections are bad as well.
The wire looks a little on the heavy side. I would re-do it with some 30awg kynar
dont know about you .... but this doesn't look too healthy
thats awful, really really bad, use wire instead of trying to be cool and make a solder "slug" for gods sakes that is really pathetic.
I actually don't see the problem with the re-rebuild (sure its not pretty), except for the Lframe connection like Otherguy pointed out but even that connection is making contact where it should. I would just clean up al little more around the lpc points and make sure thre is no solder bridging 2 points on the LPC...
Also it could be the switch on the Duox2, flip it a couple of times back and forth and put a jumper so its always set to bank 1 to make sure..
Look HERE and desolder the wire in red.
if you look HERE on Xecuters tutorial for LPC rebuild, you'll notice that the extra wire i circled is not supposed to be there.
i did an install the same way as you once and the box booted fine with the chip on, but trying to boot with the chip off gave me frag. so i desoldered that wire and all was good.
do you have everything hooked up properly, meaning, dvd, hdd, a/v cable. again, i kinda ran into the same thing, the led on the chip wasnt lit, no i figured there wasnt power going to the chip, so i tore everything apart and come to find out the all my solder points were good, but the fuckin LED on the duox2 didnt work.
take a look at THIS.. pic and solder the BT to the other point which is 3.3v, therefor giving it constant power and not having to use the eject/power button.
if all else fails, just throw it away like im about to do with mine.
sorry, pic fixed
The first thing I'd do is grab a Q-tip with some isopropyl alchohol. Swab all of the exposed board to get rid of that mess.
Then I'd probably desolder alot of it and reduce the ammount of wire that is exposed. You should only barely be able to see the exposed wire.
I'm not too sure what that huge long exposed piece of wire that Otherguy pointed out is supposed to be, but ditch it!!!
I really can't believe no one has bitched about the splatter. You really need to do something about that. Get mopping.
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if all else fails, just throw it away like im about to do with mine.
What sort of advice is that. faulty original chips are extremely rare. I have not had 1 chip in 350 faulty so far. Don't throw the chip unless you have proved it faulty by trying another.
If you believe all your wiring to be as you want it and ok then you are at the stage of trying another chip in the box to confirm if you have a chip problem.
swampen did your chip have gold lpc holes ? maybe it is a clone as the original ones never come blank !
PS the original Duox2 chips are the most reliable chips i have ever used and their cheap !
HackDaBox !
Even clones are delivered with a bios.
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It is a rebuild of one of the pads that has lifted.
You do realise that the pad is not just connected at one point but most go through the multi layer pCB and are connected to the other side of the board. if the pad is a through hole then the connection may be made to the bottom where you linked it but not to the top. You need to find out where it emerges ate the opposite side of the board and link it with a wire.
I wouldn't get smart.., not if you actualyl want to get helped. Remember, we arn't the ones that cant get a duo installed.
If the image i posted earlier is indicitive of your soldering skills, i'd quiet down.
Try to remember this, our capacity to help is limited, we're all doing this out of the goodness or our very large hearts, and you're just as capable to look for waveform and voltage readings off the respective LPC points as we are.
I have read about someone that had a broken via (from top to bottom side) of one of the LAD lines...
use a multimeter to check connectivity from top to bottom side...
you can test your LFRAME soldering by connecting it to GND and remove the chip... and then you shuld get a FRAG.
and if you think your chip is bad... borrow a friends chip to test..
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re-do the whole re-build because the wiring asthetics weren't up to stratch....and now "advice" that the board is a multi-layer PCB with link thru pads.......
Hmm lets see, you did damage doing the rebuild, Your repair of it is shoddy at best, your soldring ability is poor, you didn't know the PCB was multi layer and then make sarcastic comments as if to say it not. You ask for more technical info such as measurements when you can not even do the manual install part.
Hard fact is you need to let someone that knows what they are doing install this. Lots of the people who have tried to help you here (The same one s you are now being clever with) have hundreds of installs under theirs belts all working.
Can't see you getting any more help now.
Hi all, just to let you know that it wasn't my "bad soldering" it was the chip itself, faulty... got the replacement one today, plugged it straight in and it worked first go !!!
Just for your information.
M.
Like I told you i the 1st place.....Anyways if you don't want the other chip
l'll take it (I'm pretty sure it either the switch on it or the female pinheader you solder to it isn't making good connection)
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Hi all, just to let you know that it wasn't my "bad soldering" it was the chip itself,
Well it would be . 5 weeks to get another chip you ought to complain to the Postman