Post by: Dark-vash on November 26, 2012, 06:46:00 PM
QUOTE(Dark-vash @ Nov 27 2012, 12:45 AM) 
Greatings,
I'm building a small bartop with an xbox and I've scrolled most of the topic without clearing a doubt I have about the Standard video pin out.
with the scheme I know where to connect the cables, but do I still need to use the a/v out cable on the port? or by connecting pins 9 and 10 it bypasses the need for the cable? Do I still need to use a switch in it? or a jumper would be sufficient?
Thank you.
I've kinda answered myself. I've soldered the LCD to the board using the the scheme and bridging the pin 9 and 10 and voilá!
I'm taking pictures of the project, once I get most job done, I'll open a tread and show it
Post by: JaredC01 on May 12, 2004, 08:15:00 AM
Edit: All new diagram.
Thanks to L33 for the VGA diagram.
Edit by deadparrot 10/9/08: Image re-hosted.
This post has been edited by deadparrot: Sep 10 2008, 04:55 PM
Post by: epsilon9090 on May 12, 2004, 11:17:00 AM
Post by: spillage on May 12, 2004, 01:54:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on May 12, 2004, 06:59:00 PM
.
Post by: maxpowe2120 on May 13, 2004, 09:59:00 AM
Post by: spillage on May 14, 2004, 05:51:00 AM
JaredC01 Nice. maxpowe2120, all AV cables for the XBOX use a combination of jumper cables in the AVIP plug to instruct the video encoder (Conexant, Xacaliber, Focus) as to what type of output to enable for the particular cable type. By making your own custom output sockets you still have to instruct the encoder. By using the three switches you are effectively cloning the job of the AVIP plug. Different switch combinations, setup a 3 bit binary instruction for the encoder.
Ignore the line marked "Output" This has nothing to do with the AVIP or encoder but is necassary for my tutorial.
The three switches are representing Pins 9(Mode 1),11(Mode 2) and 13(Mode 3). The combination of binary inputs to the encoder provides the pout formats you require to drive the sockets you install.
Post by: JaredC01 on May 14, 2004, 09:58:00 AM
maxpowe2120:
Spillage said it all...
Post by: maxpowe2120 on May 14, 2004, 09:15:00 PM
ps: On the tutorial for coax audio, the pins used are different then the ones shown in your diagram? whats up with that?
This post has been edited by maxpowe2120: May 15 2004, 02:32 PM
Post by: epsilon9090 on May 15, 2004, 06:36:00 AM
Post by: maxpowe2120 on May 17, 2004, 05:23:00 AM
Post by: xerxes3rd on May 21, 2004, 04:54:00 AM
Post by: xerxes3rd on May 21, 2004, 12:46:00 PM
| QUOTE (maxpowe2120 @ May 15 2004, 06:15 AM) |
| but what about s video. i do not see anything about using s video with digital sound. also do you know where i can purchase an s video jack and compent video jacks? ps: On the tutorial for coax audio, the pins used are different then the ones shown in your diagram? whats up with that? |
Assuming you're talking about the Digital Output tutorial by DataBitz, I think the Digital Output tutorial used different grounding pins, but I believe the data pin (pin 6 on this diagram, I think) is common between both this diagram and the tutorial. It seems like every tutorial/diagram released uses different pin numbering schemes.
Post by: tsaavik on May 27, 2004, 10:42:00 AM
The number in () is p2z's labeling, the number to the right is the label numbering above.
| CODE |
( 5) 10 digital audio ground ( 3) 6 digital audio + (18-chassis) 11-chassis mode2 + to chasis ground (11) 22 Svideo Y+ (12) 21 Svideo Y- (22) 19 Svideo C+ (21) 20 Svideo C- These map VERY strangly (17-6) 12-9 MODE1? (17-5) 12-10 MODE2? |
Post by: grungy-gamer on May 27, 2004, 08:12:00 PM
(IMG:http://ebozz.site.ashst.com/photos/4618.jpg)
can someone tell me if this is correct and if it would work right?
also, JaredC01, you said that the component only works in high def mode. does that mean, that unless i have an HD tv, i won't get an image, or what? because i've run component video on my set through a high definition pack before with no problems.
Post by: Dan Wysocki on May 28, 2004, 11:11:00 AM
Post by: rastareaper on May 30, 2004, 07:00:00 PM
Post by: timeisntreal on May 30, 2004, 07:23:00 PM
| QUOTE (rastareaper @ May 31 2004, 04:00 AM) |
| i want to put component inputs on the back of my xbox for better pic quality but i dont have a hdtv television. can you still use component for 480i, or does it have to be 480p+? |
the xbox will out put 480i/p + 720p + 1080i
So yes it will do what you ask
Post by: yosomono99 on June 01, 2004, 04:46:00 PM
What about VGA from the RGB?
Post by: JaredC01 on June 02, 2004, 11:00:00 AM
| QUOTE (yasomono99) |
| Somebody else asked about it but i never saw an answer. What about VGA from the RGB? |
You can hook up VGA, but you would have to have the sync seperator, which you can build.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 02, 2004, 11:03:00 AM
| QUOTE (maxpowe2120 @ May 14 2004, 11:15 PM) |
| but what about s video. i do not see anything about using s video with digital sound. also do you know where i can purchase an s video jack and compent video jacks? ps: On the tutorial for coax audio, the pins used are different then the ones shown in your diagram? whats up with that? |
For digital sound with S-Video, switches 1, and 2 need to be on (Advanced Pack).
Post by: JaredC01 on June 02, 2004, 11:06:00 AM
| QUOTE (xerxes3rd @ May 21 2004, 06:47 AM) |
| Would it be possible to add optical to this configuration? If so, how would it be done? |
It would be quite easy to add Optical. All you would have to do, is hook up the same pins as the Coaxial for the sound, and hook up the power on the Optical socket to pin 1 on the AVIP (Pin 1 is +5v power, to power the Optical on the Advanced A/V Pack, and the High Def A/V Pack).
Hope that helps.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 02, 2004, 11:08:00 AM
| QUOTE (tsaavik @ May 27 2004, 12:35 PM) | ||
| for those who did the P-2-Z's Guide to Modding your XBOX for advanced A/V here is the relationship between his pinout labeling and the one above: The number in () is p2z's labeling, the number to the right is the label numbering above.
|
The numbering I used is the actual numbering of the AVIP. In P-2-Z's Guide, he numbered them using his own system of numbering.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 02, 2004, 11:10:00 AM
| QUOTE (Dan Wysocki @ May 28 2004, 01:11 PM) |
| Ok, I did this mod today to add the red and white audio on the back of me box, and its ok, but the problem im getting is if i plug the red and white in (at the same time) i only get output on one channel, when i plug them in sperately, i get audio output from both channels, wtf is goin on?? I still have my standard cable connected, is that whats causing the problem? Can I not get audio from both the back ports aswell as the standard cable? |
I'm not sure what the problem is. You are probably somehow shorting one of the jacks when you plug both of the cables in. You can still have you standard AVIP jack as well as the jacks on the back of your XBox. Recheck your jacks and your wiring.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 02, 2004, 11:13:00 AM
| QUOTE (grungy-gamer @ May 27 2004, 10:05 PM) |
-i've bee looking at various tutorials and faqs over the past few days, and i finally came up with a diagram for what i want to do. can someone tell me if this is correct and if it would work right? also, JaredC01, you said that the component only works in high def mode. does that mean, that unless i have an HD tv, i won't get an image, or what? because i've run component video on my set through a high definition pack before with no problems. |
Your diagram looks great. Should work perfectly for you. All I mean when I say it only works in High Def Mode, is that pins 11 - 12, and 13 - 14 need to be grounded, as they would be if you used the external High Definition A/V Pack.
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 03, 2004, 05:43:00 AM
Note: Most of the GND pins also have suggested uses, which are convenient to use based on physical placement. For example, the GND pin nearest to the "Audio Right" pin is labeled "GND (Audio Right)."
| CODE |
DataBlitz JaredC01 Description --------- -------- ----------- 1 2 Audio Right 2 4 GND (Audio Right) 3 6 SP-DIF Digital Audio 4 8 V-Sync (VGA Mode) 5 10 GND (Mode) 6 12 GND (Mode) 7 14 GND (Mode) 8 16 GND 9 18 Variable 10 20 GND (Pin 9) 11 22 Variable 12 24 GND (Pin 11) 13 1 Vcc 14 3 Audio Left 15 5 GND (Audio Left ) 16 7 H Sync (VGA Mode) 17 9 Mode Select 1 18 11 Mode Select 2 19 13 Mode Select 3 20 15 +12v 21 17 GND (Pin 22) 22 19 Variable 23 21 GND (Pin 24) 24 23 Variable |
Note: DataBlitz pinouts also apply to http://www.gamesx.co...inouts/xbox.htm
Post by: JaredC01 on June 03, 2004, 06:13:00 AM
| CODE |
| 10 20 Pin 9 GND 12 24 Pin 11 GND |
Pin 20 is the Y (Green) ground on mine.
Pin 24 is the SPDIF ground on mine.
As you said in your post, however, they're all grounding points.
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 03, 2004, 07:08:00 AM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Jun 3 2004, 03:13 PM) | ||
Pin 20 is the Y (Green) ground on mine. Pin 24 is the SPDIF ground on mine. As you said in your post, however, they're all grounding points. |
I updated my post slightly to reflect the fact that all ground points are common. If you would prefer that I remove the "suggested uses" for the ground pins, I'd be happy to do so.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 03, 2004, 12:49:00 PM
Post by: epsilon9090 on June 03, 2004, 03:26:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on June 04, 2004, 07:57:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on June 04, 2004, 09:27:00 PM
Post by: Great2bfree on June 04, 2004, 10:29:00 PM
I've also do't fully understand when you say one has to turn on the xbox in high definition a/v mode, does this mean I have to turn 2 & 3? even thought I have a regular, standard S-video cable?
thanks, and sorry for the lack of knowledment.
Post by: Sheriff on June 05, 2004, 08:02:00 PM
| QUOTE (grungy-gamer @ May 28 2004, 04:05 AM) |
| -i've bee looking at various tutorials and faqs over the past few days, and i finally came up with a diagram for what i want to do. can someone tell me if this is correct and if it would work right? also, JaredC01, you said that the component only works in high def mode. does that mean, that unless i have an HD tv, i won't get an image, or what? because i've run component video on my set through a high definition pack before with no problems. |
Okay I have tried your guide so I could plug into my HDtv but for some reason I am not getting all the colors! I rewired it several times and still it wont work
I swear I am following it to a T but still it is like one of the cables is not pluged in?
One thing I have noticed is when I unplug the Blue cable nothing changes. Please any help getting hdtv output would be soo great! I drilled the holes and mounted everything already in my LE halo box and would really like to put it to use LOL.
Thanks in advance
Sheriff
Post by: Sheriff on June 06, 2004, 06:09:00 AM
Sheriff
Post by: JaredC01 on June 06, 2004, 12:55:00 PM
| QUOTE (Great2bfree @ Jun 5 2004, 12:29 AM) |
| JaredC01, On the VGA note, you mentioned one has to have a valid VGA bios for this to work. What bios are you reffering to?(don't know of any other but hey) is it the one the xbox is booting up with? if so, is a edited 4891 good? I've also do't fully understand when you say one has to turn on the xbox in high definition a/v mode, does this mean I have to turn 2 & 3? even thought I have a regular, standard S-video cable? thanks, and sorry for the lack of knowledment. |
You have to download the actual VGA bios (meaning it supports using VGA) made by a couple different people. You can find it in the "usual places".
You have to enable High Def A/V Mode to get the option for progressive scan in the MS dashboard. Using High Def A/V Mode with the S-Video cable should work, though you may not have color (the "Green" or "Y" signal is enabled in all modes, which supplies the video in black and white).
Post by: JaredC01 on June 06, 2004, 01:13:00 PM
| QUOTE (Sheriff @ Jun 6 2004, 08:09 AM) |
| Okay I figured out what is wrong. I dont know if it something that is different with my xbox or the guide has an error but the wires that go to pin 16 & 18 need to be switched. As soon as I disconnected the wire that goes to 16 and soldered it to 18 and the one that went to 18 to 16 it worked fine. Sheriff |
Ah... it seems I have a couple of errors in my tutorial. Thanks for pointing that out!
Problems Fixed.
(Blue wires were reversed, had a VGA pin wrong)
Post by: inneedofhelp on June 07, 2004, 04:58:00 PM
I ask because I output component to my TV, but plan on installing a little LCD into my XBOX. The LCD needs to be soldered into the composite points. I will run it simultaneously with my TV.
I need an answer before I devote time and money into this mod. Thanks a lot.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 07, 2004, 07:43:00 PM
| QUOTE (inneedofhelp @ Jun 7 2004, 06:58 PM) |
| Important question: Is there any way to get component and composite out at the same time? I ask because I output component to my TV, but plan on installing a little LCD into my XBOX. The LCD needs to be soldered into the composite points. I will run it simultaneously with my TV. I need an answer before I devote time and money into this mod. Thanks a lot. |
No... you can't have both at the same time. The XBox will not put out a signal for composite when using the High Def A/V Pack (component).
Post by: JaredC01 on June 09, 2004, 05:44:00 PM
.Hmm... was just thinking... should I submit the diagram as an official tutorial?
Post by: JaredC01 on June 10, 2004, 06:52:00 PM
| QUOTE (MyMinuteNewt @ Jun 10 2004, 07:14 AM) |
| I'm in the process of modding a HD-Pack to give me S-Video and Component. So now I'm in the process of deciding what kind of switch to use. From the great diagram on the first post of this thread, I see that I need to switch between Advanced & HDTV. Except I only want to install one little switch. I noticed that Pins 11 & 12 are closed on both modes. so I could permanently short these connections. So now I'm only concerned with pins 9&10 and 13&14, I want to switch from one pair to the other. Are pins 10, 12 and 14 all ground? If so, I could just get an SPDT, and connect a groung to the center pin. If not, I suppose I'd need to get a DPDT and wire it up, so only one is closed at one time. any suggestions? TIA |
Yes, you can (and in this case should) permanantly connect pins 11 and 12. Pins 10, 12, and 14 are indeed all grounding points. Just use a SPDT switch, hook up one of the 3 grounding pins to the common post on the switch, and pins 9 and 13 to the opposite sides of the switch.
Throw the switch one way, you have Component A/V. Throw the switch the opposite way, you have S-Video A/V.
Good luck with your mod!
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 11, 2004, 04:56:00 AM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Jun 10 2004, 02:44 AM) |
| Bump . Hmm... was just thinking... should I submit the diagram as an official tutorial? |
I think you should, although I would probably add optical to the diagram first. Other than that, it's perfect.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 11, 2004, 08:40:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on June 11, 2004, 10:42:00 AM
.
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 12, 2004, 06:16:00 AM
Post by: SchrodingersCat on June 12, 2004, 06:57:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on June 12, 2004, 10:57:00 AM
Post by: illypso on June 12, 2004, 07:55:00 PM
good work man i always search for a clear diagram like this. finaly someone make it. I will do this mod on my xbox for sure, now that it is in a computer case i got all the room i want to do it
http://forums.xbox-s...pic=226546&st=0
thank you man
Post by: JaredC01 on June 13, 2004, 10:11:00 AM
. Good luck with your mod, and tell us how it goes!
Post by: mcw on June 13, 2004, 07:54:00 PM
Would it be possible to also add signal labels for each line to the diagram as well? Well, maybe not on the line itself, but by where you have them connected to each component...
So a +, -, Y+, Y-, C+, C-
Looking at the picture, I'm assuming that the line in the center of the coax audio, components, and composite connectors is the "+" signal, and the line to the left is the ground.
It just makes it easier for those that like to follow signals->components, instead of drawings showing where something should be hooked up, especially if working with non-standard looking components.
Your diagram is by far the easiest to follow - I've had trouble with some of the other text listings since it's hard to tell which way they number the pins and whatnot. Anyway, if you can add signal labels, that would be great.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 14, 2004, 07:25:00 PM
Post by: illypso on June 14, 2004, 09:31:00 PM
the chip LM1881N
i have found a place but it would cost me like 100 buck to get it
12 buck for the chip and the rest for the shipping,
p.s my mod when fine exept that it look a litle ugly cause i dont have a dremel,
i post some pic if you are interest,
Post by: mcw on June 15, 2004, 12:00:00 AM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Jun 14 2004, 09:25 PM) |
| I can't get too specific for the labeling, because most of the outputs have more than one signal. I did, however, show which was +, and which was -. |
Jared:
Thanks for the update... Now I guess it's time to plan out the mod...
On your S-Video picture, is this how you have the connections showing (left->right)?:
C-, C+, Y+, Y-
or am I looking at it from the wrong side?
Basically - are we looking at a female connector with the connections on the reverse side? That's what I would imagine and would be the most obvious, but just wanted to get it clarified (you know how some people have their diagrams - can't be too sure).
EDIT:
Your VGA connector diagram has the ordering from left->right which would be for the male connector (although female would be the better choice when used on the box)... I guess that's why I need to confirm which side of the S-Video connector we're looking at.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 15, 2004, 10:10:00 AM
| QUOTE (mcw @ Jun 15 2004, 02:00 AM) |
| Jared: Thanks for the update... Now I guess it's time to plan out the mod... On your S-Video picture, is this how you have the connections showing (left->right)?: C-, C+, Y+, Y- or am I looking at it from the wrong side? Basically - are we looking at a female connector with the connections on the reverse side? That's what I would imagine and would be the most obvious, but just wanted to get it clarified (you know how some people have their diagrams - can't be too sure). EDIT: Your VGA connector diagram has the ordering from left->right which would be for the male connector (although female would be the better choice when used on the box)... I guess that's why I need to confirm which side of the S-Video connector we're looking at. |
Correct on the S-Video, as well as the others. You are looking at the front of the connector, with the connections on the back. I was unaware that the VGA was shown using a Male connector, as I got the diagram from L33. VGA is now changed to a Female connector.
Post by: mcw on June 16, 2004, 12:24:00 AM
Oh, and which program did you make that schematic in?
Post by: JaredC01 on June 16, 2004, 12:53:00 PM
| QUOTE (mcw @ Jun 16 2004, 02:24 AM) |
| Awesome.. Looks much more uniform now. Oh, and which program did you make that schematic in? |
Good ol' M$ Paint
.
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 16, 2004, 01:46:00 PM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Jun 16 2004, 09:53 PM) |
| Good ol' M$ Paint . |
Now that's impressive. =)
Post by: JaredC01 on June 16, 2004, 04:59:00 PM
| QUOTE (xerxes3rd @ Jun 16 2004, 03:46 PM) |
| Now that's impressive. =) |
Been working with M$ Paint for years now... takes a while to get it just how you want it, but I think I've mastered the technique
.
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 16, 2004, 05:34:00 PM
All 16 of it's toolbar functions, eh? I'm still impressed; I guessed that you used Visio for the diagram.
Post by: JaredC01 on June 16, 2004, 09:56:00 PM
| QUOTE (xerxes3rd @ Jun 16 2004, 07:34 PM) |
| Hehehehehe All 16 of it's toolbar functions, eh? I'm still impressed; I guessed that you used Visio for the diagram. |
All of it's 16 toolbar functions in all their glory... lol.
What's Visio
?
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 17, 2004, 03:48:00 AM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Jun 17 2004, 06:56 AM) |
| What's Visio ? |
If you made this sophisticated of a diagram in M$ Paint, and you don't know what Visio is, then I think it's safe to assume that you have no need for Visio at all.
For the record, "Visio 2003 is a diagramming program that can help you create business and technical diagrams that document and organize complex ideas, processes, and systems. Diagrams created in Visio 2003 enable you to visualize and communicate information clearly, concisely, and effectively in ways that text and numbers cannot. Visio 2003 also automates data visualization by synchronizing directly with data sources to provide up-to-date diagrams, and it can be customized to meet the needs of your organization." Blah blah blah, it allows you to create fancy diagrams. =)
Post by: JaredC01 on June 17, 2004, 05:04:00 AM
.
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 17, 2004, 10:23:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on June 18, 2004, 11:53:00 AM
.
Post by: brahm2 on June 18, 2004, 09:42:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on June 18, 2004, 09:44:00 PM
.
Post by: spillage on June 24, 2004, 06:16:00 AM
Post by: EvilWays on June 26, 2004, 03:40:00 AM
| QUOTE (illypso @ Jun 15 2004, 06:31 AM) |
| i dont know if it is illegal (if it is i am sorry)to ask but where can we get the chip LM1881N i have found a place but it would cost me like 100 buck to get it 12 buck for the chip and the rest for the shipping |
try DigiKey...that's where I got my small stash...
I'm working on an alternative method of obtaining the sync signals by using the internal sync signals used between the encoder chip and GPU using only a 74HC14 chip (found some theory behind this from Oliver Schwartz on Xbox-Linux website). By the looks of it, this may clear up a few probs left by even using LM1881 sync separators (mostly the green tinting). As I don't have a working Xbox mobo ATM, I can't verify my work as of yet...plus I'm not 100% sure it'll work the same on mobos with the Focus chip as it (hopefully) will on mobos with the Conexant chip.
Post by: spillage on June 26, 2004, 04:09:00 AM
Respect due.
Post by: illypso on June 29, 2004, 12:46:00 AM
just want to know, i am using some IDE cable to do the conection for the vga, will i lost quality or is it fine. i will also use a old printer extention cable,( I will use the male and female plug stik together so that i can disconect them , if i want to remove the motherboard again.) so my big question , will i lose a lots on quality or will it be juste fine. i will use the Component cable most of the time on a tv that is not hdtv.
also , the one who have done this , are you removing the conecter of the mobo to pass the wire throu it or you just solder them on the pin under the mobo. seem a litle bit hard , i try it on the LAN exit and i finaly romove the entire exit with my blow torch (yes i know, i was carefull
) and i past the wire throu the mobo,the problem is that there is a lots more small hardware stuff neer the exit conector so i dont want to burn one , what whould be a good way .
just asking maybe there is a way i havent think of.
any help or suggestion apreciated.
thank you
**EDIT** I finaly remove the hole thing and sollder everything, just need to reinstall and plug , hope i havent burn anything.
Post by: illypso on June 29, 2004, 03:59:00 PM
. ( I was sure it wasn't gona work lol) just want to know something ,I was tinking about puting wireless headphone build in. I got a little infra red module that is made for that , he is mest up, but it still work( i remove the exit on the back and the case is broken)
I would directly solder the sound wire to it , drill some hole on the front of my old pc case xbox (the second floppy drive opening)for the infrared LED to be able to send the sound,
1.whould it work.
2 If the sound is not loud enought is there a way to boost it a little
3 This little module is working on 9Volt, this cause a litle problem, could i use the 12v exit of the xbox with a resitor,
I found the best friend for doing mod: yellow ABS cement .
the wire wont move at all
And again thank you very mutch for having made something like that, it is so easy to fallow. (just fallow the line, lol)
you have realy just use M$ paint for this.
**EDIT** I forgot, thank you for the website where to get the LM1881N. but I realy need to find a place where I can get it in COD in canada. I'm searching but if you know a place, It whould be nice
It's the only thing that is not plug and my computer screen doesn't suport sync on green.
Post by: xerxes3rd on June 30, 2004, 05:21:00 AM
Note that the pin numbering scheme differs from that which is used by JaredC01. Refer to my post on page 2 of this thread for pin numbering mappings between this diagram and JaredC01's diagram.
Post by: Noutaja on July 01, 2004, 04:23:00 PM
.PS: Is this Ultimate A/V pack in tutorials? I didnt find it there, and this should be there.
Post by: JaredC01 on July 02, 2004, 10:09:00 AM
| QUOTE (Noutaja @ Jul 1 2004, 06:23 PM) |
| No.... I dont get it.... My S-video works only with AV cable connected. (and it is perfect picture) Without it, my TV picture is a mess. I connected 9-10 and 11-12 pins. Do I miss something?? I'w been trying to fix this some time . PS: Is this Ultimate A/V pack in tutorials? I didnt find it there, and this should be there. |
All you needed to do was connect Pin 9 to Pin 10, and Pin 11 to Pin 12. That should have given you the Advanced A/V Pack Mode.
From what you said, and what it sounds like, you only have Pins 11 and 12 connected correctly. What's probably happening, is when you insert the A/V Cable, it's grounding pins 9 and 10, and you already have pins 11 and 12 grounded, which would make it work correctly, and without it inserted, you're only grounding pins 11 and 12. With only pins 11 and 12 grounded, you're probably getting a PAL signal going into your TV. Recheck pins 9 and 10.
I submitted it as a tutorial a while back... still waiting to see if they post it
.
Post by: Noutaja on July 03, 2004, 11:48:00 AM
. Fortunately that cable is behind Xbox . Maybe my other Xbox is not bewitched .
Post by: JaredC01 on July 05, 2004, 02:27:00 PM
| QUOTE (Noutaja @ Jul 3 2004, 01:48 PM) |
| I'w been trying, and still no "luck". I have to stop to some point pefore my Xbox is broken (soldering many times). And every time connection was good when looking with multimeter. I just have to use that AV cable . Fortunately that cable is behind Xbox . Maybe my other Xbox is not bewitched . |
Sorry to hear you did't get it working correctly. Are you sure you connected the correct pins? Maybe you accidentally connected pin 9 and 7 or 8? Just trying to think what could be the problem.
Another possible solution... Solder pin 9 to pin 12 or pin 14. All three of the pins 10, 12, and 14 are grounds. If that doesn't work, then you may just be stuck with the A/V cable.
Hope you get it working!
Post by: dreamcast2001 on July 06, 2004, 05:00:00 AM
Post by: Kermit_2002 on July 06, 2004, 06:35:00 AM
- Audio L+R
- Digital audio (comp)
- VGA
I just can't figure out which points in JaredC01's scheme I have to bridge to get VGA and Digital audio at the same time..
Thanks!
Post by: JaredC01 on July 06, 2004, 07:51:00 AM
| QUOTE (P-A-F-F @ Jul 5 2004, 11:59 PM) |
| do you have to use a sync sep.? can you just pull them somewhere off the xbox mobo?.... since i dont feel like waiting for it to be shipped... what else uses them?, or where can i just get one off of... |
There is a way to pull them off of the mobo, but I'm not sure what it is. It would be easiest to use the seperator circuit.
| QUOTE (Dreamcast2001 @ Jul 6 2004, 7:00 AM) |
| someone help me..i just got a high definition A/V pack for my xbox and a hitachi high def plasma unit..will this automatically give me a high def progressive scan video? or do i need to set up my xbox to hd..coz i dont see any set up option for HD on the xbox menu audio video setting. please help.. |
You have to enable high def modes in the original XBox dashboard.
| QUOTE (Kermit_2002 @ Jul 6 2004, 8:35 AM) |
Ok, I'm building a cable right now with the following outputs: - Audio L+R - Digital audio (comp) - VGA I just can't figure out which points in JaredC01's scheme I have to bridge to get VGA and Digital audio at the same time.. Thanks! |
Honestly I'm not sure about digital audio myself. I'll check if it works with pins 9 -10 and pins 13 - 14 grounded in a few minutes. I'll post what I find out.
Post by: dreamcast2001 on July 07, 2004, 02:14:00 AM
Post by: Kermit_2002 on July 07, 2004, 04:31:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on July 07, 2004, 08:24:00 AM
| QUOTE (Kermit_2002 @ Jul 7 2004, 02:35 AM) |
| Another question that came up: Do I need to use the 100nF (capacitator?) between the VCC (8) and the minus (6) on the LM1881? I will not be making a optical output, the vga-tutorial at X-S doesn't mention the capacitator at all. |
No. The capacitor is only for the Optical output. It is not needed for the Sync Seperator.
Post by: JaredC01 on July 08, 2004, 08:59:00 AM
Post by: illypso on July 12, 2004, 10:24:00 AM
need a confirmation on that , not 100% sure
Post by: JaredC01 on July 12, 2004, 07:09:00 PM
Edit: illypso is also correct on the NTSC part. You must have 480p enabled to have a usable monitor signal, and you can only enable high def modes with NTSC mode. The good news is, most games are made to be multi-region.
Post by: JaredC01 on July 13, 2004, 08:56:00 AM
To set 480p blindly in the XBox Dash:
Down
Down
A
Pause 1 Second
Down
Down
Down
A
Pause 1 Second
Down
A
Pause 1 Second
Left
A
Restart your XBox, and you should be in 480p.
Post by: Kermit_2002 on July 15, 2004, 08:22:00 AM
| QUOTE |
You have to ground pins 11 - 12, and 13 - 14. That will give you the high def mode in the XBox dashboard. |
That's probably what I've been doing wrong. I've grounded pins 9-10 and 13-14 (switches 1+3 to get VGA mode). So I can't get the HDTV option in my dash (I think).
So if I ground pins 11-12 and 13-14, I will get the HDTV option in my dash. But will I also get VGA output?
Thanks for all your help btw!!
Post by: JaredC01 on July 15, 2004, 10:44:00 AM
| QUOTE (Kermit_2002 @ Jul 15 2004, 10:22 AM) |
| That's probably what I've been doing wrong. I've grounded pins 9-10 and 13-14 (switches 1+3 to get VGA mode). So I can't get the HDTV option in my dash (I think). So if I ground pins 11-12 and 13-14, I will get the HDTV option in my dash. But will I also get VGA output? Thanks for all your help btw!! |
No, read the VGA note on the diagram. You must first ground pins 11 - 12 and 13 - 14, and enable 480p in the dashboard. Then you remove the ground between 11 - 12, and ground pins 9 - 10, so that you have pins 9 - 10, and 13 - 14 grounded (VGA Mode). You must also have a VGA bios installed.
Post by: illypso on July 15, 2004, 06:06:00 PM
**edit** 10, 12 and 14 are ground
Post by: Telemachus on July 16, 2004, 09:16:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on July 17, 2004, 08:56:00 AM
| QUOTE (Telemachus @ Jul 16 2004, 11:16 AM) |
| Is it possible to output the HD components AND the regular RCA (yellow wire) simultaneously? You ask why... I have a TV guardian for the kids that cuts out cuss words, but is dependent on having the regular RCA hookup to edit the sound. |
No, unfortunately, it's not. The Video will only work in the modes listed. It doesn't sound like you'll need the video though, if you will be using it to block cuss words for your kids. The RCA audio (White and Red) works in every mode, so I would think your blocker would still work with the HD mode enabled.
Post by: JaredC01 on July 17, 2004, 08:59:00 AM
| QUOTE (Atmoz @ Jul 17 2004, 10:01 AM) |
| I have made this scheme for my Xbox: http://img47.photobu...Def_AV_Pack.gif But when I connect the Component cables to my projector, I get a blue shifting screen... Does anyone know what to do? And when I'm in the Evox menu, my DTS receivers say's PCM audio instead of DTS or something like that. Is that normal? Atmoz |
You made? You mean you found
.It sounds like you don't have the switches setup correctly. You are probably getting a PAL signal going to your XBox if you're just getting a scanning picture. Check and make sure you have pin 11 going to pin 12, and pin 13 going to pin 14 and see if that fixes the error.
Post by: Telemachus on July 18, 2004, 10:40:00 AM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Jul 17 2004, 05:56 PM) |
| No, unfortunately, it's not. The Video will only work in the modes listed. It doesn't sound like you'll need the video though, if you will be using it to block cuss words for your kids. The RCA audio (White and Red) works in every mode, so I would think your blocker would still work with the HD mode enabled. |
Actually, the blocker requires an RCA input so that it can scan the closed captioning to be able to detect the cuss words, and then it mutes the signal going to the red/white audio RCA cables for the sentence containing the word.
How is it that the X2VGA adapter has VGA out AND all three RCA (red/white/yellow).
Post by: Telemachus on July 18, 2004, 08:08:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on July 18, 2004, 11:22:00 PM
Post by: Scaramanga on July 19, 2004, 12:54:00 PM
and all I want is component (rgb) output.
I see that to switch between the normal composite output
and the modded component output I need a switch between points 13-14
and 11-12. Am I correct?
In your diagram the switches have 2 legs but most switches have 3 legs.
will something like this work?
(from radioshack)
Also, I want to switch between composite and component with one switch instead of two, is this possible?
Sorry for the many questions but when it comes to electronics im a total newbie.
Post by: JaredC01 on July 19, 2004, 05:52:00 PM
Post by: Scaramanga on July 20, 2004, 12:51:00 AM
from the original cable or do I have to build a sound outlet as well?
Post by: JaredC01 on July 20, 2004, 09:05:00 AM
| QUOTE (Scaramanga @ Jul 20 2004, 01:54 AM) |
| When the xbox is on hdtv mode will I still get sound output from the original cable or do I have to build a sound outlet as well? |
You will get sound from the original cable, but you can't have the original cable hooked up at the same time as you want to use component, due to the regular cable connecting pins 9 - 10. If you left it plugged in, then you would have pins 9 - 10, 11 - 12, and 13 - 14 connected. You should probably put in jacks for sound as well.
Post by: Scaramanga on July 20, 2004, 10:59:00 AM
So the "normal" stero sound in your diagram is the red/white.
So now I have to solder 5 jacks and 2 switches.
hmm, this is getting messy
Post by: Scaramanga on July 21, 2004, 06:30:00 AM
).I'll start working on this tomorrow.
Post by: Scaramanga on July 21, 2004, 10:49:00 AM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Jul 20 2004, 01:55 AM) |
| 2 of those switches will work just fine, or you could use one SPDT switch instead of 2 different switches. |
You probably meant DPST switch.
Anyway, got that switch and all the other parts, im gonna start working on this soon hopefully.
Post by: JaredC01 on July 21, 2004, 02:58:00 PM
| QUOTE (Scaramanga @ Jul 21 2004, 11:52 AM) |
| You probably meant DPST switch. Anyway, got that switch and all the other parts, im gonna start working on this soon hopefully. |
Whoops... indeed I do... lol. DPST or DPDT should suit your needs just fine.
Post by: spillage on July 21, 2004, 05:36:00 PM
Much respect.
Post by: Scaramanga on July 22, 2004, 01:12:00 PM
It was a bit harder than I thought but considering the result it was wroth it
The tricky part was to get the motherboard back into the case as there is almost no space between the bottom and the motherboard.
Anyway, it works now. I will do the drilling on monday, till then here are some pics:
(please don't comment on my soldering skills
)
Post by: JaredC01 on July 22, 2004, 05:31:00 PM
| QUOTE (spillage @ Jul 21 2004, 06:39 PM) |
| JaredC01, you diagram is well put together and easy to understand. Much respect. |
Thank you, it means a lot. I have had much respect for your work for a long while now. Thank you for the compliment.
Post by: JaredC01 on July 22, 2004, 05:37:00 PM
Post by: sergeant72 on July 25, 2004, 01:37:00 PM
Regards.
Post by: irfan on July 31, 2004, 12:25:00 AM
.it would be much easier if i could just add and svideo female input on the HDTV breakout box
Post by: nickman on August 05, 2004, 04:55:00 AM
How do i enable RGB on the scart ? 1+2+3 ?
Any possibility of anybody adding picture of a scart connector diagram also ?
Post by: thecowsays on August 05, 2004, 04:32:00 PM
where does everyone get the plugs?
i cant find them anywhere
i mean female jacks that i could mount on the back of my xbox, not male plugs that would go on a cord
thanks!
Post by: JaredC01 on August 05, 2004, 10:12:00 PM
| QUOTE (thecowsays @ Aug 5 2004, 05:35 PM) |
| i want to add s-video, component video, and the yellow/red/white outputs, but i cant find where to buy them where does everyone get the plugs? i cant find them anywhere i mean female jacks that i could mount on the back of my xbox, not male plugs that would go on a cord thanks! |
I bought mine at RadioShack... They came in packs of 4, bought 2 packs. I had one left over, so as a side project, I made a pedal for my Guncon2 for my PS2, to use with TimeCrisis2... Lotta 2's in there
.
Post by: nickman on August 06, 2004, 02:26:00 AM
| QUOTE (Ten @ Aug 5 2004, 10:47 PM) |
| Yup , 9->10, 11->12 and 13->14 will give you RGBCs with digital audio enabled. |
Great.
Only thing left is to start soldering then
And find a nice switch(s) and figure out how to connect that so i get it like i want to.
Post by: thecowsays on August 06, 2004, 02:13:00 PM
| QUOTE |
| I bought mine at RadioShack... They came in packs of 4, bought 2 packs. I had one left over, so as a side project, I made a pedal for my Guncon2 for my PS2, to use with TimeCrisis2... Lotta 2's in there . |
i was just there and the guy said they only have black and red and white
i want the proper colors for component
anybody know where i can find them?
Post by: JaredC01 on August 06, 2004, 11:22:00 PM
| QUOTE (thecowsays @ Aug 6 2004, 03:16 PM) |
| i was just there and the guy said they only have black and red and white i want the proper colors for component anybody know where i can find them? |
I used black ones myself, I'm not sure where you can find proper colors. Old DVD player maybe?
Post by: nickman on August 08, 2004, 11:55:00 AM
RGB Scart picture
Does this cable look right ?
Post by: nickman on August 09, 2004, 08:09:00 AM
Post by: nickman on August 10, 2004, 12:33:00 PM
First I thought about desoldering the video connector from the xbox but I didn't like that very much. I would like to be able to restore it to it's original state easy.
So as i had an extra cable lying in the closet I thought I would use that instead.
This how it looks right now.. The xbox side is done now to the other end with all the connectors. B)
This is how many wires the original cable should have :lol:
Inside 1:
(IMG:http://hem.bredband.net/nicaro/xboxcable/inside1.jpg)
Inside 2:
(IMG:http://hem.bredband.net/nicaro/xboxcable/inside2.jpg)
Outside when done 1:
(IMG:http://hem.bredband.net/nicaro/xboxcable/outside.jpg)
Outside when done 2:
(IMG:http://hem.bredband.net/nicaro/xboxcable/outside2.jpg)
Post by: JaredC01 on August 10, 2004, 12:45:00 PM
This post has been edited by JaredC01: Aug 10 2004, 07:45 PM
Post by: nickman on August 10, 2004, 12:50:00 PM
| QUOTE (JaredC01 @ Aug 10 2004, 08:12 PM) |
| Lookin good, lets see some pictures of the rest of the project too ;). |
Sure ;) As soon as i have some more to show i'll post it here.
I'm building a complete new case for my xbox. I could upload some pictures now but i think people would think it sucks right now :lol: So i'll wait until i get a little further.
Post by: g3o on August 15, 2004, 08:40:00 AM
I have an infocus x1 projector which handles hdtv through the vga port.
I tried connecting a vga port to the appropriate points on avip for hdtv and connected my switches, I never bothered with the lm1889 chip (figuring that i dont need it??? ) and booted up xbox, No fragging but no pic either, I have tried a game and evox dash, I cant see anything :(.
So should it even work this way or is the chip essential ( i didn't see why it was because you can get y/ypb/ypr to vga cables).
Any help much appreciated
G30
Post by: JaredC01 on August 15, 2004, 11:26:00 AM
| QUOTE (g3o @ Aug 15 2004, 09:07 AM) |
| I need some help guys. I have an infocus x1 projector which handles hdtv through the vga port. I tried connecting a vga port to the appropriate points on avip for hdtv and connected my switches, I never bothered with the lm1889 chip (figuring that i dont need it??? ) and booted up xbox, No fragging but no pic either, I have tried a game and evox dash, I cant see anything :(. So should it even work this way or is the chip essential ( i didn't see why it was because you can get y/ypb/ypr to vga cables). Any help much appreciated G30 |
If you had read anything about anything in any of the previous posts, or done a search, you would have found out that, unless your monitor/projector supports SOG (sync on green), then you absolutely MUST have the LM1881N chip to separate the sync signals, otherwise you will have no picture period.
In short, YES, you do need the LM1881N chip.
Post by: g3o on August 15, 2004, 12:29:00 PM
If i hadn't have skipped the page where you say about using s-video (in b&w) to set up 480p etc i wouldn't have needed to ask :P .
Anyways i got it working now all thanks to you.
Cheers saved me £50 on an unneeded x2vga.
This post has been edited by g3o: Aug 15 2004, 07:30 PM
Post by: bool on August 17, 2004, 02:57:00 PM
I've done this mod to my 1.0 pal xbox. I've switched to NTSC using Enigmah video mode switcher. After that I enabled all HD-TV modes (480p, 720p and 1080p) using the MS Dash. I'm pretty sure my TV supports all of these modes.
Problem: I get B/W output.
It seems that only Y-output (-20, +22) comes trough. When I disconnect Pb (-16, +18) and Pr (-17, +19) display keeps unchanged. When I only connect Pb or Pr I get blue (or red) waving lines (garbled).
Also I've triple checked the wires. And all -poles are GNDs. I've checked that too.
I very much hope you can point out some hints to solve this problem.
Thanks in advance,
This post has been edited by bool: Aug 17 2004, 10:41 PM
Post by: AlTheKiller on August 17, 2004, 06:08:00 PM
Post by: bool on August 18, 2004, 08:11:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on August 18, 2004, 10:06:00 AM
| QUOTE (bool @ Aug 17 2004, 03:24 PM) |
| Hi JaredC01, I've done this mod to my 1.0 pal xbox. I've switched to NTSC using Enigmah video mode switcher. After that I enabled all HD-TV modes (480p, 720p and 1080p) using the MS Dash. I'm pretty sure my TV supports all of these modes. Problem: I get B/W output. It seems that only Y-output (-20, +22) comes trough. When I disconnect Pb (-16, +18) and Pr (-17, +19) display keeps unchanged. When I only connect Pb or Pr I get blue (or red) waving lines (garbled). Also I've triple checked the wires. And all -poles are GNDs. I've checked that too. I very much hope you can point out some hints to solve this problem. Thanks in advance, |
I had the same problem for a while, after resoldering a few times, I finally got one of the colors to work. For the second color, I had to run a bridge wire to an alternate point on the motherboard.
Check your soldering again. Did you remove the AVIP completely, or did you just add seperate wires for the jacks? If you removed it completely, then what may be happening, is that since some of the traces are on the TOP side of the AVIP, if you only solder on the bottom of the AVIP, you may not be getting a connection to the trace located on the top. If you kept your AVIP and just added wires to each of the pins, then check your soldering. I'll post the jumper spots I used a little later when I get the chance.
Post by: spillage on August 18, 2004, 03:54:00 PM
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/392648/Pict0012a.jpg)
This post has been edited by spillage: Aug 18 2004, 10:56 PM
Post by: CreziB on August 19, 2004, 10:20:00 AM
So that's my plan, remove the avip and fill the opening. Then, add all the inputs cept for vga.
Post by: JaredC01 on August 19, 2004, 05:21:00 PM
| QUOTE (CreziB @ Aug 19 2004, 10:47 AM) |
| So my question is- Is it safe to remove the audio/video input from the mobo or not? If I could remove that dumb port, then that would free up a lot of room on the back panel for all the inputs. I want to add all except vga. I see that Jared talks about the traces ontop...being that I haven't removed the input, yet...are there any areas that I would be unable to solder to that would need it without the avip? So that's my plan, remove the avip and fill the opening. Then, add all the inputs cept for vga. |
I have removed the AVIP myself. Yes, you are able to remove it and still get everything to work, but as Spillage said, there are multiple layers of traces, so you would need to apply flux throughout the holes to make sure you get the solder all the way through the hole, and not just on one side or another. Applying flux will insure you get good contact with the trace, wherever it may be on/in the mobo.
I didn't apply any flux myself, and had to resolder multiple times, and eventually solder to an alternate spot on the mobo for 2 of my wires. You're better off using flux the first time.
Post by: sandman1687 on August 19, 2004, 06:08:00 PM
also, i was thinking, could a RF adapter be incorporated into the design (i have a MS brand rf adapter, and i dont mind tearing it apart).
Post by: spillage on August 19, 2004, 07:54:00 PM
The AV Cable, aka the standard one, has composite and L&R audio, and mode select jumpers to instruct the encoder. JaredC01's diagram is all you need.
Yes you can wire up the RF adaptor as well but not use it simulataneously. The encoder needs to be setup differently for RF so check the diagram for mode select for RF. The audio/video pins used are the same as AV Cable.
If you do attempt to take the AVIP off, which is totally 'do-able', be careful, don't force it as you try to get it off. The AVIP connector is not very tough nor is it heat resistant. Use plently of good quality flux, resolder the connections then use a desolder pump to remove it. It is very unlikely to 'play ball' so you have to keep trying. My advice would be to use at least a 25W iron and not to keep the iron on the lands, as you run the risk of lifting a trace as they expand.
Good luck, post back your experience.
This post has been edited by spillage: Aug 20 2004, 02:56 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on August 19, 2004, 07:36:00 PM
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 19 2004, 06:35 PM) |
| i was wondering, has anyone attempted to make a break-out box with every single connector on the diagram? also, im not too keen on removing the AVIP connector (and since i have an extra standard av cable), so could someone write up a quick diagram explaining what pins on JaredC01's diagram correspond to the av cable? thanks. also, i was thinking, could a RF adapter be incorporated into the design (i have a MS brand rf adapter, and i dont mind tearing it apart). |
A few things... 1. The standard XBox cable only has wiring for the three standard A/V jacks. You can use the plug part itself with different wiring like nickman did if you wish to do it that way. 2. You can find the info for making an external cable/box Here.
I did not make the diagram on that website, so don't post any problems with it to me. xerxes3rd made a translation chart from the pins on that site to the pins in my diagram. My diagram uses the actual M$ numbering of the pins.
Here is a link to the translation chart.
Post by: sandman1687 on August 19, 2004, 08:35:00 PM
Post by: sandman1687 on August 19, 2004, 09:50:00 PM
Post by: irfan on August 19, 2004, 11:07:00 PM
I'll try to start on this tomorrow with radio shack parts (friday the 20th).
now the only problem is getting that sleeving off of the end of the connector.
i also might just add the switches to the front of the xbox if i can make room for them.
-altrenative i could just add the s-video input to the HD box with the switches on the front couldnt? The HD box already has all the wires i need, its jsut a matter of wiring in the s-video into that but then i dont get my twenty bucks back
Post by: JaredC01 on August 20, 2004, 04:12:00 PM
| QUOTE (irfan @ Aug 20 2004, 12:10 AM) |
| well after realizing im too impatient to wait on shipping for the Red green blue phono jacks (btw- DigiKey.com sells them for 71 cents a piece) .. i decided iw ill pry open the advanced video pack i have, and add in the wires for component video including a spdt swtich to go between the HD and s-video modes, all on the breakout box so i dont have to mess with soldering internally and worrying about traces and all that. besides , i can return the HD pack but not the Advanced pack at this time anyways:) I'll try to start on this tomorrow with radio shack parts (friday the 20th). now the only problem is getting that sleeving off of the end of the connector. i also might just add the switches to the front of the xbox if i can make room for them. -altrenative i could just add the s-video input to the HD box with the switches on the front couldnt? The HD box already has all the wires i need, its jsut a matter of wiring in the s-video into that but then i dont get my twenty bucks back |
I'd go with your alternative... the Advanced A/V Pack doesn't have enough wires in it to wire up component. You'd be missing the Blue (Pb) signal. Using the HD A/V Pack, you would have all of the wires. Just wire up the S-Video jack to the corresponding pins (same pins as Pr and Y signals, check the diagram), unsolder the jumper wires (will be pins 11 to 12 and pins 13 to 14) in the HD A/V Pack connector, solder some switches in place inside the case so you can switch between Advanced and HD A/V Modes, and you're ready to go.
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 20 2004, 12:11 PM) |
will the TOTX179 work? http://www.toshiba.c...ProductID=10180 alos, isnt 100nF the same as .1uF ? |
I haven't actually done the Optical mod myself, so I'm not sure if the TOTX179 will work or not. I only posted ones that I know for sure work, based on other people's experiences.
As for the 100nF being the same as .1uF, yes, 100nF is the exact same thing as .1uF.
Post by: irfan on August 20, 2004, 11:15:00 PM
I tried the first idea i had with the Advanced AV pack, i basically disconnected the Composite Video, Audio Left and Audio right. I think took those wires and soldered them to the corresponding pins for the components (19 17, 18 16, 22, 20)... jared... all the pins are on all of the connectors, i pulled apart the connector and resoldered the video/audioL&R wires to the corresponding pins.
but.. that didnt work too well, i cant get any video with components, and the s-video is now just black and white. im guessing a connection came loose or shorted something else. im oging to look into it in the AM. if that doesnt work i will do the wiring in the actual breakout box and not the connector, and i'll have to run a pair of wires for the Yb signal.
Post by: irfan on August 21, 2004, 12:35:00 AM
EDIT: actually it doesnt matter since if u follow either of them from the start u end up the same anyways. i guess it has to be a loose connection?
Post by: irfan on August 21, 2004, 01:37:00 AM
Its an application of Jareds diagram to the AV plug connector instead of the motherboard, also using info from http://www.gamesx.co...inouts/xbox.htm
http://www.geocities...quatch/xbox.jpg
Post by: talon4x4 on August 21, 2004, 08:52:00 PM
Can someone please tell me why they are both different.
And if a friend of mine decides to give me his M$ AV pack can I use that for the HD connection and then add the SPDIF from one of the diagrams above??
Thanks!
Post by: irfan on August 21, 2004, 10:23:00 PM
sandman: thanks for the link that looks great actually, exactly what i wanted... im guessing that thing has a switch on the back of it? if i run out of time for soldering i may go with that idea and jsut dish out the 15bucks.
Post by: JaredC01 on August 22, 2004, 10:15:00 AM
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 21 2004, 11:42 PM) |
| im nixing the whole vga output because: on my 1.0 xbox, i have a cheapmod, and it wont work if you only have a 256K chip. my other box is a 1.4, so thats out of the question. im reluctant to go with the product i posted a link to earlier, because i: a) dont have any other info than what it gives you, and i doubt it has a transcoder like X2vga+. so, i guess digital audio and component video are gonna be my best outputs :/. gonna order parts on monday. also, does anyone know how to build a cheap version of the X2vga+? anyone have knowledge of the components inside one? (c'mon X2vga+ owners, take it apart) |
If I'm not mistaken, someone has tried a new type of VGA bios on their 1.3 box, which would be 256k. Read back a few pages and you'll probably find what I'm talking about. To answer your X2VGA question, no. No one has come close to duplicating an X2VGA, partially because the people at X2VGA leave the writing on their chips blank, and partially because it would be much too difficult for a normal person to do by themselves.
| QUOTE (talon4x4 @ Posted on Aug 21 2004, 09:55 PM) |
I'm going to add the HD connection and a SPDIF connection to my XBox. My question is, the diagram by Sheriff in this thread shows a different spot to connect the SPDIF(He shows a connection to pins 6 & 24) than the one in this article http://www.xbox-scen...ital-output.php (pins 3 & 5 with a GND at 18) Can someone please tell me why they are both different. And if a friend of mine decides to give me his M$ AV pack can I use that for the HD connection and then add the SPDIF from one of the diagrams above?? Thanks! |
As I have stated before, I used the numbering system written on the motherboard itself, so mine would be the correct method of numbering.
In that tutorial, his pin 3 is really pin 6, and pin 5 is really pin 10. I used pin 24 for the ground for the SPDIF audio, because it was an unused ground, and pin 10 I used for mode switching. The ground going to pin 18, which is really pin 11, is just for mode selection (Regular A/V Mode, Advanced A/V Mode, HD A/V Mode).
You can use any ground you want to for the SPDIF, as long as you have the positive side connected to pin 6 in my diagram, pin 3 in the diagram at the link you posted. I simply chose to use pin 24 as my ground pin because it was not used by anything else.
Edit: Found the link to the guy with a 1.3 using a vga bios. Here it is.
Post by: CreziB on August 22, 2004, 05:29:00 PM
Thinking about it more...it should work if I just use 2 of the 3 legs. Cuz it'd be doing the same as a 2 leg switch. If I use the 2 legs on the right, then when I switch it to the right it'd be powered, and when switched to the left it'd be just grounded...correct? Given I use the center leg for ground and right most leg for power. Break off or not use the far left leg.
Post by: Scaramanga on August 22, 2004, 07:48:00 PM
it works the opposite-
when the switch is on the right it connects the center with the left point.
Post by: irfan on August 22, 2004, 08:37:00 PM
Post by: CreziB on August 22, 2004, 08:53:00 PM
Post by: CreziB on August 23, 2004, 12:00:00 PM
Is this ok?
Ok, now I think I have it...maybe.
Std A/V is enabled when switch A is switched right and switch B is switched right.
Adv Pack is enabled when switch A is switched right and switch B is switched left.
HDTV is enabled when switch A is switched left and switch B is switched left.
And hopefully the digital audio outputs function on both Adv Pack and HDTV.
And this is for NTSC
(edited after reading irfan's post)
Post by: irfan on August 23, 2004, 12:48:00 PM
Post by: CreziB on August 23, 2004, 12:58:00 PM
Post by: spillage on August 23, 2004, 02:32:00 PM
Post by: CreziB on August 23, 2004, 02:58:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on August 23, 2004, 10:19:00 PM
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 23 2004, 04:09 PM) |
| is anyone in the scene developing on making a new vga bios (focus support, possibly compatability with cheapmod users?) |
Did you even read my previous post to you??
Post by: sandman1687 on August 24, 2004, 01:17:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on August 24, 2004, 08:52:00 PM
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 24 2004, 06:00 PM) |
| after reading pin descriptions, i see 10 GND points. is it possible to only solder 15 points to the connector and use only one of those GND points for every GND point in the diagram? (use one gnd point for all mod selectors, both analogue audio channels, composite gnd, s-video gnd's, component gnd's, coax and digital gnds) |
Possible? Yes. Suggested? Definately NOT.
If you were only meant to use one of the grounds, the XBox would only come with one ground. Using only one ground for everything can also have some negative side effects, and there's a possibility of some of the jacks not working. Your best bet is to use the grounds suggested in the diagram.
Post by: JaredC01 on August 25, 2004, 09:09:00 AM
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 24 2004, 10:34 PM) |
| alright, but since 3 gnds are used for mode switching, will it hurt to use just one gnd for the mode switches? |
That should be fine.
Post by: JaredC01 on August 25, 2004, 06:56:00 PM
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 25 2004, 01:27 PM) |
| ok, since im tryin to fit all of this into as small of space possible, im using a pc board with busses (power busses). could i connect every gnd point from the avip to one common gnd bus, so every - can just be connect to one bus on the pcb? (reply if further explaination is needed) |
That should work fine.
Post by: irfan on August 25, 2004, 09:50:00 PM
so i tore apart the connector again and this timedid better soldering, and made sure the solder points didnt run into each other, still same problem. im pretty tired of this so i ordered the xbox AV station from www.jandaman.com .... if the quality is good on that i'll keep it, if not i guess i'll have to do the jacks straight off the motherboard.
Post by: irfan on August 26, 2004, 12:12:00 PM
Post by: sandman1687 on August 26, 2004, 11:00:00 PM
ps: parts from digikey are set to arrive the 31st
Post by: irfan on August 27, 2004, 12:54:00 AM
Post by: sandman1687 on August 31, 2004, 12:02:00 AM
Post by: DarkLegion on August 31, 2004, 06:14:00 AM
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 25 2004, 06:20 AM) |
| there is no way to use the tatx bios on a cheapmod because the mod is distributed as a 512K bios, and the sst49lf020 is a 256K chip. i could flash my tsop, but im not too keen on that, hence the cheapmod. |
Actually Yoshimitsu modified the TATX bios to 256K,although I'm not sure if the vga code could still fit.....and if anybody could be bothered doing the mod.I would just risk the tsop,if something goes wrong your modchip will still be able to boot.You could also try using the phoenix bios loader,as the recent version apparently boots pretty quickly and doesn't have a splash screen any more.You could easily use one of those multi-dashboard bioses that allow you to boot a specific xbe on bootup....and you could just press a particular button when you want to boot vga...and if unattended bios loads have been implemented in phoneix yet you'll be able to automatically go into vga without
A TV...or just a second button press would probably do the job just as easily.
Post by: JaredC01 on September 18, 2004, 12:12:00 PM
| QUOTE (chamius @ Sep 17 2004, 03:24 AM) |
| Sorry I wasn't clear, trying to cram too much into one post. What I was essentially asking was whether the functionality of the Advanced Pack could be recreated without all of those analog components. But never mind, what I think I'll do is take the Advanced Pack and make it switchable to have Component outputs. So for this it seems I need to: (1) add a switch that changes the mode GND configuration (2) break out the three component outputs So... can this all be done at the dongle-box end of the Pack or does it have to be done at the connector end? And if the latter, what's the easy way to open that connector without destroying it? Thanks for the help! |
1 and 2: Correct
You have to change the wiring in the connector end (the end that plugs into the AVIP on the xbox), and the wiring in the pack
To take the connector apart, carefully pry at the sides until the halves of plastic come off. There are clips on either side, so if you pry one way and it doesn't come off, try prying the other way. It may take a bit of force.
Post by: CreziB on September 19, 2004, 05:12:00 PM
Post by: sandman1687 on September 20, 2004, 08:14:00 PM
Post by: CreziB on September 20, 2004, 10:07:00 PM
Post by: sandman1687 on September 23, 2004, 08:12:00 PM
Post by: Scaramanga on September 23, 2004, 09:21:00 PM
looks very proffesional. Nice work there.
How are you gonna mount all that at the back of the box?
Post by: CreziB on September 25, 2004, 08:37:00 PM
I mean my smartxx chip recognizes when I switch the switch. It'll read either HDTV mode or Type 5 mode which I suppose is s-video. So the switch is right...I don't know what could have happened to stop the video from working properly. Maybe someday I'll get another mobo. argh. "Hi I have an xbox and have dumped more than $500 into the box and hardware alone." bleh, the trick is not to think about it.
Post by: PerlBoy on October 02, 2004, 10:37:00 PM
from the images that were posted (opened advance AV pack), i saw some sort circuitry (caps and resistors) on the S-video section. what are they for? Coz the schematic provided in this first post, i do not see these components.
are they filters for noise? what are the values? can we live w/o em?
Post by: JaredC01 on October 03, 2004, 06:21:00 PM
| QUOTE (PerlBoy @ Oct 2 2004, 11:40 PM) |
| i m a noobie, and heres a question from the images that were posted (opened advance AV pack), i saw some sort circuitry (caps and resistors) on the S-video section. what are they for? Coz the schematic provided in this first post, i do not see these components. are they filters for noise? what are the values? can we live w/o em? |
I would have to assume they would be for noise... nothing else they could be for that I can think of...
Post by: PerlBoy on October 04, 2004, 06:12:00 AM
advance AV pack
Post by: bdonalds on October 04, 2004, 08:28:00 AM
T1, T2 and T3 would be the three mode pins (10, 12 and 14, if I remember correctly, and the ground would be the other three, 9, 11, and 13)
I added diodes to prevent unwanted shorts that would occur from having multiple connections to each pin. Will the diodes zap too much juice to correctly select the mode? Any other wacky flaws in my design? Am I in full compliance with the laws of thermodynamics?
Any thoughts?
thanks,
Bryan
Post by: JaredC01 on October 04, 2004, 09:13:00 AM
| QUOTE (bdonalds @ Oct 4 2004, 09:31 AM) |
| I am working on a project based on JaredC01's diagram (thanks JaredCO1!) Has anyone who has done this taken note of the nature of the signal on the mode select->ground connections? What I want to do is install a rotary switch instead of using three seperate switches. Here is the design I came up with: T1, T2 and T3 would be the three mode pins (10, 12 and 14, if I remember correctly, and the ground would be the other three, 9, 11, and 13) I added diodes to prevent unwanted shorts that would occur from having multiple connections to each pin. Will the diodes zap too much juice to correctly select the mode? Any other wacky flaws in my design? Am I in full compliance with the laws of thermodynamics? Any thoughts? thanks, Bryan |
You have the mode pins backwards. Pins 9, 11, and 13 are the selecting pins. Pins 10, 12, and 14 are the grounds. I'll label which is which on the diagram when I get the chance.
Edit: Just looked over your diagram. Everything looks in order. I don't believe the diodes would zap too much juice, but there's only one way to be certain. Try it out and let me know what you find out.
Also, my pleasure for the diagram
.
Post by: PerlBoy on October 05, 2004, 08:37:00 AM
Post by: PerlBoy on October 06, 2004, 10:59:00 PM
Post by: bdonalds on October 07, 2004, 07:40:00 AM
| QUOTE (PerlBoy @ Oct 7 2004, 12:02 AM) |
| anyone has any schematic?? |
Do you need the schematic of the ADV AV pack exactly? If you just need the functionality, you can use the diagram in the first post of this thread to get what you need.
Bryan
Post by: Derek B on October 07, 2004, 11:41:00 AM
My TV has 480p and 1080i capability. It will not convert an incoming 720p signal, it will freak out and display a garbled screen becuase it wont sync. If I want to play a 720p compatible game in XBOX, will it be able to output 480p or 1080i, does the XBOX convert the 720p game to other formats? What should I set the XBOX outputs to be for each format (ON/OFF)?
Thanks for answering my question.
Derek
Post by: dvsrydin on October 14, 2004, 04:24:00 PM
quick question... The rca output on my xbox is not working correctly... if i were to solder in just the "y" like in your diagram.. woudl this be a possible fix?
My video problem is just that, no video at all, Svideo the video is all fuzzy and dull... audio/everythign thing else works perfect.
Post by: JaredC01 on October 14, 2004, 08:18:00 PM
As for the S-Video, sounds like you've got the chromiance and luminance reversed. Switch your top two wires and see if that works.
Post by: sandman1687 on October 15, 2004, 01:39:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on October 15, 2004, 02:48:00 PM
| QUOTE (dvsrydin @ Oct 15 2004, 11:53 AM) |
| Hey Jared, sorry i wasn't clear enough. My xbox crapped out on me without doing any type of a/v modification, just happened one day out of the blue, possible due to a power surge. The effects deemed my original A/V input no longer working, i bought the svideo cord from the store.. that worked for awhile, then the svideo went all blurry like i described above. So im wondering if i were to open the box up, and solder on the y composite, maybe that will bring it to work again? Im hoping anyway. thanks. |
I don't think that would fix your problem, but you could always give it a shot...
| QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Oct 15 2004, 02:42 PM) |
has anyone experimented with pulling the vsync and the hsync directly form the conexant chip to circumvent the need for a VGA bios? |
I haven't myself, but there have been a few people that have tried/are trying to attempt it.
Post by: ariek on October 22, 2004, 05:17:00 PM
If I wanted to install a switch for standard/advanced mode
Would a switch combination
9 + 10 standard
9&11 + 10 advanced
be enough
I know only the advanced mode (just soldering 9 + 10+12) would be enough for me (composite and svideo/spdif enabled)
but I would like to have the option to switch(and to learn)
Post by: JaredC01 on October 23, 2004, 10:59:00 AM
Hook one side of the SPST switch up to pin 10, 12, or 14. Then simply attach pin 11 to the other side of the switch.
After you have the switch hooked up, simply run a short wire from pin 9 to pin 10. When you have the SPST switch turned on, pins 9 and 11 will be grounded, and when you have the SPST switch turned off, only pin 9 will be grounded.
Hope that helps.
Post by: kokkorollo on November 11, 2004, 09:50:00 AM
i'v connected the wire in the right place, but the screen on my proiector is black!
i'v connected the 11 to 12 and 13 to 14, is this right?
the connection table on the first page is right?
please help me|
i'm driving crazy!
Post by: laxb0y1o on November 11, 2004, 02:34:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on November 11, 2004, 04:06:00 PM
| QUOTE (laxb0y1o @ Nov 11 2004, 04:37 PM) |
| ok i have an svideo connector it has 4 wires already connected to it...the problem is i can't see where they are conected 2...the colors are red green white and black...and way to tell which wire goes where? |
Red and Green are most likely your Chroma and Luma wires... if you look on the diagram, they use the same pins as Component Red (Pr) and Green (Y). The black and white are most likely the grounds for the Chroma and Luma wires.
P_1: I don't have the Advanced A/V pack, so I couldn't tell you what goes where... you might be able to find something by searching.
kokkorollo: I don't know what your problem is... Yes, pins 11 to 12, and 13 to 14 should be connected. Check your Green (Y) connection, and make sure it's correct, and not loose. The Green supplies the main video connection... if you're not getting a picture, that's probably why.
Post by: copra on November 21, 2004, 09:12:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on November 21, 2004, 11:45:00 AM
| QUOTE (copra @ Nov 21 2004, 11:15 AM) |
| I just added composite video and audio connectors because old doesn´t work. So, now i just want to get it work without standart A/V cable plugged in. DoI just have to connect pin 9 to pin 10? Am I right? I hope that you answer bocause my english isn´t very good so mayde I don´t understand everything what yu have wroten. |
Right.
Post by: sandman1687 on December 09, 2004, 07:25:00 PM
Post by: COTA-GodlyOne on December 25, 2004, 08:49:00 AM
QUOTE(sandman1687 @ Dec 10 2004, 03:56 AM)
its all coming together....
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: thrud on December 29, 2004, 04:44:00 PM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sandman1687 on December 29, 2004, 10:19:00 PM
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shielding. you surround the positice wire with the gnd one, to prevent any sort of interference.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Trevante on December 29, 2004, 10:42:00 PM
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Are you sure? Everything that I've read leads me to believe that PS2 doesn't naturally output VGA (especially the fact that there are VGA adaptors for the PS2)
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 10, 2005, 10:10:00 PM
-
Nice
I just finished modding my Advanced A/V pack - I added a set of 3 dip switches on the box for video mode switching, a VGA connection, and a headphone jack. All fits nicely in the original box, and I still have room for component and digital coax if I wanted it. Don't think I could get away with an RF modulator in the box, though... a little too cramped for that. Managed to do it all without adding wires to the box - just forced some common grounding and used left over wires for the switches and the missing green wire. I've seen no video quality loss from this. (1080i looks fuzzy, but I don't think my monitor formally supports that resolution anyway) If anyone wants pictures of the resulting A/V box let me know and I'll post 'em.
Just a little heads up for anyone looking at putting a VGA connection on their box - if you connect switches 2 and 3 in the diagram and use the VGA iND-BiOS 5001 you can use any component resolution on your monitor (480p, 720p, and 1080i!). Don't know if the same is true for the Pixel8 or TATX VGA bioses, but that doesn't matter much anyway - the VGA iND-BiOS has better compatability - LBA48, IGR, and customizing the flubber and such. Took me forever to find that there was an iND VGA bios, so I thought I'd throw a line for anyone building with this guide.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 22, 2005, 03:24:00 PM
-
Took some pics of my modded AV Pack. Crappy quality 'cause I'm an unsteady shot and I was too close with the camera (didn't feel like using zoom).
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 01:45:00 PM
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Actually, I did open the connector coming from the breakout box to the xbox... had to in order to get some of the wires I needed to the box. If you're adding composite to the HD pack you'll definitely need to open up the box and the connecter from it. You're going to have to add a set of switches (HD uses 2 + 3 from the diagram, composite is only active with 1 or 1+2) ... so you need one wire for each switch, and 1 for composite. They all share the same ground.
I suggest reading more of this thread.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 06:18:00 PM
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That'll work. What I did to "get wires through" was take advantage of xbox's common ground. I stole some of the ground wires, used them for my own purposes. Basically you can disconnect the ground wires for everything in the box except for one, then force everything in the box to use that one wire for grounding... then you can use those leftover wires for whatever you want. I did this with 4 of the wires - stole the wires for the grounds for the s-video and L + R audio to use for switches 1,2,3 and the blue positive... then forced the S-video and L+R audio to use the ground from the optical audio port.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 08:12:00 PM
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Gladly
first of all, it's a good idea to patch your MS Dashboard for 480p... (I actually haven't done that yet 'cause I use avalaunch for everything - it allows you to enable HDTV resolutions in it's settings)
Second, you'll need to change what is grounded together in your A/V connector - instead of connecting pins 9 + 10 together, connect 11 + 12. 13 + 14 should already be connected for you. This is the same as having switches 2 + 3 on in JaredC01's diagram. (when in doubt I always reference back to that) This will enable HDTV mode for you. You can then use the MS dashboard or Avalaunch to enable 720p and/or 1080i... if you really want to you can even turn on widescreen... you'll just have to adjust the vertical size on your monitor whenever you play a widescreen game. I fooled around with this a little myself but decided to just wait until I get a widescreen HDTV to play anything in widescreen.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 23, 2005, 10:13:00 PM
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ok, ive read this topic for about 10 pages but i just dont understand it. im new to all this hi-def, s-video stuff. im used to plugging in 2 av plugs and im away.
but now that i bought an hi-def tv i want the absolute best picture i can get with the xbox. im not entirely sure how to do this though.
jameson42, you seem to know what you are doing, you seem experienced, may you help me with my problem. you will probably answer it so easily but im lost.
in my tv i have, 1 s-video input, i have the green and blue inputs also aswell as the standard white, yellow and red av inputs.
ok, i know what i want now, ive read that RGB and S-Video produce the best pictures.
so im thinking of doing both S-Video and RGB or should i just stick with one or the other, also doing these mods can i also do the Hi-Def mod and get even better quality picture?
ok so S-video or RGB it is. and maybe somehow do a hi-def mod if it makes the picture better.
thanks for putting up with all this, hope it makes sense
-
Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 10:51:00 PM
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eminvil_12,
If you want to connect your xbox to an HD-TV, the easiest thing to do is to get the Hi-def A/V pack that MS offers. That has the Y, Pb, Pr (Green, Blue, Red, respectively) video connections that HD uses (this will give you the best video quality on your tv), as well as optical and Red/White Stereo audio connections. The optical audio connection is useful if you'll be hooking your box up to a Dolby 5.1 surround setup.
RGB is different than the HD green-blue-red, but pretty much the same quality. S-Video is lower quality, and then composite (yellow connector) is below that. For future reference, the Y-Pb-Pr is also referred to as Component video.
If you see the need to build connections for your TV yourself, then follow JaredC01's guide at the beginning of this thread, using just the Y, Pb, Pr connections, along with whatever audio connections you'd like. You'll need to enable HDTV mode in your custom-made A/V pack (switches 2+3 in Jared's guide)
Hope I answered your questions well enough
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 24, 2005, 12:14:00 AM
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jameson42
thanks for your reply, heaps of help. just to clear up a few things.
all i need to do is follow jaredC01's tut for the Y, Pb, and Pr ones, the red, blue, green colours.
then all i need to do is put in switches 1 and 2, the switch them both "ON" if i want HDtv and both "off" if i want to use my normal av cables.
also with this hi-def mod, will my xbox still need the av cables in when using the hi def? if so is there anyway i can permanently make my xbox think there is a av cable in it so i dont have to put both in.
once again thanks for your help, its great.
eminvil_12
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 24, 2005, 01:03:00 AM
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yes, follow the tut for the Y,Pb, and Pr (and some form of audio connection).
You'll need switches 2+3 - set them both to "ON" for HDTV, and "OFF" when you use your normal av cable. DO NOT keep your normal AV cable plugged in - this essentially turns on switch 1, which will not allow HDTV to work. You will not need the normal AV cable unless you want to use normal A/V - in which case you need to turn off switches 2+3.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 24, 2005, 01:09:00 AM
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Post by: thrud on December 29, 2004, 04:44:00 PM
Post by: sandman1687 on December 29, 2004, 10:19:00 PM
Post by: Trevante on December 29, 2004, 10:42:00 PM
QUOTE
PS2 has native VGA output
Are you sure? Everything that I've read leads me to believe that PS2 doesn't naturally output VGA (especially the fact that there are VGA adaptors for the PS2)
Post by: Jameson42 on January 10, 2005, 10:10:00 PM
QUOTE(sandman1687 @ Dec 10 2004, 12:27 AM)
long time since my last reply, but i just got a PS2 (with san andreas) so my time has been put into a new project. i created a common pinout for every console i can think of (had to be 25 pins b/c of xbox connector). i built all components into a small project box (including an RF tuner). to minimize interference, i built an on/off switch into the RF tuner so i can turn it off when im not using it. i'll let the pictures speak for themselves:
(the only wiring that has been installed is the wiring for the tuner and the LM1881 sync-seperator circuit (PS2 has native VGA output). (holes on HD/SPDIF output side are for mode switches)
(the only wiring that has been installed is the wiring for the tuner and the LM1881 sync-seperator circuit (PS2 has native VGA output). (holes on HD/SPDIF output side are for mode switches)
Nice I just finished modding my Advanced A/V pack - I added a set of 3 dip switches on the box for video mode switching, a VGA connection, and a headphone jack. All fits nicely in the original box, and I still have room for component and digital coax if I wanted it. Don't think I could get away with an RF modulator in the box, though... a little too cramped for that. Managed to do it all without adding wires to the box - just forced some common grounding and used left over wires for the switches and the missing green wire. I've seen no video quality loss from this. (1080i looks fuzzy, but I don't think my monitor formally supports that resolution anyway) If anyone wants pictures of the resulting A/V box let me know and I'll post 'em.
Just a little heads up for anyone looking at putting a VGA connection on their box - if you connect switches 2 and 3 in the diagram and use the VGA iND-BiOS 5001 you can use any component resolution on your monitor (480p, 720p, and 1080i!). Don't know if the same is true for the Pixel8 or TATX VGA bioses, but that doesn't matter much anyway - the VGA iND-BiOS has better compatability - LBA48, IGR, and customizing the flubber and such. Took me forever to find that there was an iND VGA bios, so I thought I'd throw a line for anyone building with this guide.
Post by: Jameson42 on January 22, 2005, 03:24:00 PM
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 01:45:00 PM
I suggest reading more of this thread.
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 06:18:00 PM
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 08:12:00 PM
QUOTE(babla @ Jan 23 2005, 09:23 PM)
Jameson42 i just wanted to ask u that i have normal vga cable made from a standard xbox AV cable.What modifications should i make to my vga cable,so that it displays all the hi-def modes in my msdashboard.i,m using ind-5001 vga bios.Could u plz explain in detail i,m kinda new to the scene.
Gladly
first of all, it's a good idea to patch your MS Dashboard for 480p... (I actually haven't done that yet 'cause I use avalaunch for everything - it allows you to enable HDTV resolutions in it's settings)
Second, you'll need to change what is grounded together in your A/V connector - instead of connecting pins 9 + 10 together, connect 11 + 12. 13 + 14 should already be connected for you. This is the same as having switches 2 + 3 on in JaredC01's diagram. (when in doubt I always reference back to that) This will enable HDTV mode for you. You can then use the MS dashboard or Avalaunch to enable 720p and/or 1080i... if you really want to you can even turn on widescreen... you'll just have to adjust the vertical size on your monitor whenever you play a widescreen game. I fooled around with this a little myself but decided to just wait until I get a widescreen HDTV to play anything in widescreen.
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 23, 2005, 10:13:00 PM
but now that i bought an hi-def tv i want the absolute best picture i can get with the xbox. im not entirely sure how to do this though.
jameson42, you seem to know what you are doing, you seem experienced, may you help me with my problem. you will probably answer it so easily but im lost.
in my tv i have, 1 s-video input, i have the green and blue inputs also aswell as the standard white, yellow and red av inputs.
ok, i know what i want now, ive read that RGB and S-Video produce the best pictures.
so im thinking of doing both S-Video and RGB or should i just stick with one or the other, also doing these mods can i also do the Hi-Def mod and get even better quality picture?
ok so S-video or RGB it is. and maybe somehow do a hi-def mod if it makes the picture better.
thanks for putting up with all this, hope it makes sense
Post by: Jameson42 on January 23, 2005, 10:51:00 PM
If you want to connect your xbox to an HD-TV, the easiest thing to do is to get the Hi-def A/V pack that MS offers. That has the Y, Pb, Pr (Green, Blue, Red, respectively) video connections that HD uses (this will give you the best video quality on your tv), as well as optical and Red/White Stereo audio connections. The optical audio connection is useful if you'll be hooking your box up to a Dolby 5.1 surround setup.
RGB is different than the HD green-blue-red, but pretty much the same quality. S-Video is lower quality, and then composite (yellow connector) is below that. For future reference, the Y-Pb-Pr is also referred to as Component video.
If you see the need to build connections for your TV yourself, then follow JaredC01's guide at the beginning of this thread, using just the Y, Pb, Pr connections, along with whatever audio connections you'd like. You'll need to enable HDTV mode in your custom-made A/V pack (switches 2+3 in Jared's guide)
Hope I answered your questions well enough
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 24, 2005, 12:14:00 AM
thanks for your reply, heaps of help. just to clear up a few things.
all i need to do is follow jaredC01's tut for the Y, Pb, and Pr ones, the red, blue, green colours.
then all i need to do is put in switches 1 and 2, the switch them both "ON" if i want HDtv and both "off" if i want to use my normal av cables.
also with this hi-def mod, will my xbox still need the av cables in when using the hi def? if so is there anyway i can permanently make my xbox think there is a av cable in it so i dont have to put both in.
once again thanks for your help, its great.
eminvil_12
Post by: Jameson42 on January 24, 2005, 01:03:00 AM
You'll need switches 2+3 - set them both to "ON" for HDTV, and "OFF" when you use your normal av cable. DO NOT keep your normal AV cable plugged in - this essentially turns on switch 1, which will not allow HDTV to work. You will not need the normal AV cable unless you want to use normal A/V - in which case you need to turn off switches 2+3.
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 24, 2005, 01:09:00 AM
QUOTE(Jameson42 @ Jan 24 2005, 09:34 AM)
yes, follow the tut for the Y,Pb, and Pr (and some form of audio connection).
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: babla on January 24, 2005, 06:45:00 AM
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jameson42
Thanks alot for the reply and just one more request,if u can could u post a rough diagram for the normal vga to hi-def vga would really help.Hope i,m not asking for too much.Once again thanks for the reply.
thank U
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 24, 2005, 11:12:00 AM
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I don't think I quite understand what your problem is, babla... just disconnect the wire you have connecting pins 9 + 10, and use it to connect pins 11 + 12 instead (this is all on the xbox side of the cable, not the vga side)... basically, in the connector that connects to the xbox, you should have what looks like this:
(I modified L33's diagram slightly...)
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: xp-power on January 24, 2005, 02:08:00 PM
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are the switchs needed
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 24, 2005, 03:05:00 PM
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Switches are necessary if you ever wish to switch between video modes, otherwise you can just hardwire a video mode.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Trevante on January 25, 2005, 06:27:00 PM
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Post by: babla on January 24, 2005, 06:45:00 AM
Thanks alot for the reply and just one more request,if u can could u post a rough diagram for the normal vga to hi-def vga would really help.Hope i,m not asking for too much.Once again thanks for the reply.
thank
U
Post by: Jameson42 on January 24, 2005, 11:12:00 AM
(I modified L33's diagram slightly...)
Post by: xp-power on January 24, 2005, 02:08:00 PM
Post by: Jameson42 on January 24, 2005, 03:05:00 PM
Post by: Trevante on January 25, 2005, 06:27:00 PM
QUOTE(babla @ Jan 25 2005, 07:00 PM)
Just a quick question is it nessecary to use ind-vga bios for hi-def with a vga cable ? or the other 2 bioses namely pixel8,s and tatx will also do the job?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 25, 2005, 08:40:00 PM
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I highly recommend using the iND-BiOS for VGA output. I've tried both of the other VGA bioses, and they're big and featureless. iND actually supports things like in game reset, large hard drives, and startup logo and flubber customization. The 256K size and compatibility with 1.0-1.5 xboxes is a definite plus. Using up 512K or 1MB on my modchip for a featureless bios is rather undesirable for me. Although I praise the work put into VGA output by PiXel8 and others, I think the iND VGA caters more to the needs of all VGA users.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 26, 2005, 10:19:00 AM
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I'm not sure if the other VGA bioses support VGA output in HD mode or not... I never thought to try it until I tried the iND-BiOS. I would think the other bioses would work roughly the same when it comes to VGA output.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 26, 2005, 03:28:00 PM
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That'll work, Devilman. Some bioses have support in them to not have an A/V pack, too (no soldering or wiring involved). I know iND-BiOS does, not sure what else.
EDIT: I noticed an error with a previous post of mine... iND-BiOS VGA is compatible only with 1.0-1.3 xboxes, not 1.4 or 1.5. Sorry for the mix up.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 26, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
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Don't worry about the questions. Gives me something to do when I'm bored at work (like now). It doesn't matter what you make your VGA cable from, as long as you wire it correctly. The connectors on the MS HD cables don't have any magical properties or anything. I built my Hi-Def VGA connection with an advanced A/V pack (the MS S-Video cable), but it would have come out the same had i used my normal A/V cable instead. Probably just wouldn't have looked as pretty (I like my A/V breakout box).
Sorry if I seem to get frustrated with you - I'm not. Just the annoying part of my personality seeping through. I wish you all the best in your xbox endeavors and I am happy to help - we were all newbs once.
Edit: The cables that people have referred to with component and VGA are actually pre-made cables you can purchase that convert a component connection to a VGA connection - they're normally only used for projectors. Using a VGA-bios, you can use one of these connected to a MS HD pack to get vga output on a sync-on-green monitor. Nothing special in the cables, they just connect the red, green, and blue signals from component video to the red, green, and blue signals for VGA... they don't do any conversion of data that is generally necessary (which a VGA bios will do). RGB and Component video are not directly compatible - the signals are a little off.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 28, 2005, 09:23:00 PM
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ok this might be a stupid question but i have googled it and found no results.
which is the positive and negative on a rca head?
i included this pic, if someone can draw on it etc thatd be good.
is the outside metal bit the negative, or the inside? thanks
also do i have to do these bits i circled for the hi def. or do i just solder to the 6 points on the mobo?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on January 29, 2005, 05:41:00 PM
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The outside is the ground.
No, you don't need the VGA connector if you're not adding a VGA connection to your xbox.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 29, 2005, 06:17:00 PM
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thanks mate
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on January 30, 2005, 11:53:00 AM
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Wow... Been a while since I've checked up on this thread... I actually have a PDF file made with all of the single packs... Standard A/V, Advanced A/V, High Def A/V, and VGA A/V, all on seperate pages, and easy to understand. I'll post it when I get off of work.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 05:55:00 AM
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hey jared good too see you back but i have a problem, ok here i go.
i followed the hi-def part of the tut
the y, pr an pb or something.
heres what i did.
i soldered al the wires on and connected to the rca outputs like your supposed to. they are all right im sure, ive checked heaps of times.
these are the problems im having
the normal av plug is working fine and displays it normally.
when av plug is in and switchs are off these are the effects
-even when i have hdtv switched off on the xbox (switch 2 and 3) it still is displayed on my tv when i flick over to dvd mode.
- the picture is black and white, or it may have a small tinge of blue or green in it.
when i have the switches turned on the picture is bright pink. i have tried a few things and wil include a few pictures
i have included picyures as i thought it would be easier to explain.
the first ten pics are of the xbox with hi-def enabled.
the 4 last pics are with it disabled.
also sometimes the xbox just resets itself when i play around with the rca plugs
heres the pics
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: xp-power on February 03, 2005, 06:56:00 AM
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Post by: Jameson42 on January 25, 2005, 08:40:00 PM
Post by: Jameson42 on January 26, 2005, 10:19:00 AM
QUOTE(Zindon @ Jan 26 2005, 11:19 AM)
Isn't it also true that the iND-BIOS with VGA is the only one that also outputs VGA over standard component cables? This very helpful for me, as my monitor has seperate RGBHV BNC connectors in addition to a D-sub normal monitor connection. I bought a third party component cable and three phono-to-BNC adapters for much less than an Xbox cable and a VGa extension to hack together. Of course your monitor has to support sync-on-green; mine does, which is nice.
I'm not sure if the other VGA bioses support VGA output in HD mode or not... I never thought to try it until I tried the iND-BiOS. I would think the other bioses would work roughly the same when it comes to VGA output.
Post by: Jameson42 on January 26, 2005, 03:28:00 PM
EDIT: I noticed an error with a previous post of mine... iND-BiOS VGA is compatible only with 1.0-1.3 xboxes, not 1.4 or 1.5. Sorry for the mix up.
Post by: Jameson42 on January 26, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
Sorry if I seem to get frustrated with you - I'm not. Just the annoying part of my personality seeping through. I wish you all the best in your xbox endeavors and I am happy to help - we were all newbs once.
Edit: The cables that people have referred to with component and VGA are actually pre-made cables you can purchase that convert a component connection to a VGA connection - they're normally only used for projectors. Using a VGA-bios, you can use one of these connected to a MS HD pack to get vga output on a sync-on-green monitor. Nothing special in the cables, they just connect the red, green, and blue signals from component video to the red, green, and blue signals for VGA... they don't do any conversion of data that is generally necessary (which a VGA bios will do). RGB and Component video are not directly compatible - the signals are a little off.
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 28, 2005, 09:23:00 PM
which is the positive and negative on a rca head?
i included this pic, if someone can draw on it etc thatd be good.
is the outside metal bit the negative, or the inside? thanks
also do i have to do these bits i circled for the hi def. or do i just solder to the 6 points on the mobo?
Post by: Jameson42 on January 29, 2005, 05:41:00 PM
No, you don't need the VGA connector if you're not adding a VGA connection to your xbox.
Post by: eminvil_12 on January 29, 2005, 06:17:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on January 30, 2005, 11:53:00 AM
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 05:55:00 AM
i followed the hi-def part of the tut
the y, pr an pb or something.
heres what i did.
i soldered al the wires on and connected to the rca outputs like your supposed to. they are all right im sure, ive checked heaps of times.
these are the problems im having
the normal av plug is working fine and displays it normally.
when av plug is in and switchs are off these are the effects
-even when i have hdtv switched off on the xbox (switch 2 and 3) it still is displayed on my tv when i flick over to dvd mode.
- the picture is black and white, or it may have a small tinge of blue or green in it.
when i have the switches turned on the picture is bright pink. i have tried a few things and wil include a few pictures
i have included picyures as i thought it would be easier to explain.
the first ten pics are of the xbox with hi-def enabled.
the 4 last pics are with it disabled.
also sometimes the xbox just resets itself when i play around with the rca plugs
heres the pics
Post by: xp-power on February 03, 2005, 06:56:00 AM
QUOTE(eminvil_12 @ Feb 3 2005, 01:01 PM)
hey jared good too see you back but i have a problem, ok here i go.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on February 03, 2005, 09:38:00 AM
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Try it without your A/V cable plugged in (I assume you're using it for audio), and your switches on for Hi-Def mode. (if you've got the switches on and the a/v cable plugged in, that's essentially turning on switches 1, 2, and 3 - which is RGB mode, not Hi-Def mode.
Let me know what happens.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 04:40:00 PM
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hi jameson42
i took the cable out and im getting picture but its still white, and has green for some parts. not what it supposed to be. so i take out the cable for the blue connection and the picture is still the same, meaning i have 2 cables same picture.
now i took out the red cable, so now the only cable still in is the green one. now the picture shows up but its black and white. do you think it could be my connections?
thanks
if you have msn add me
[email protected]
as ive been in this topic asking questions etc for a while.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 05:02:00 PM
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damn, cant edit. anyway here are the pictures with the av cable out and all the 3 hi-def cables in.
this is the picture i get. only some is green.
its looks blue but it is green
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 10:51:00 PM
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also another question. if i cant plug the av cable into the tv (stock one) then how do i get sound?
do i also have to do a audio mod aswell, for the right and left speakers?
thanks and sorry for all my posts
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on February 03, 2005, 11:18:00 PM
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You have 2 options for sound. Either add audio connections to the back of the box, or modify your A/V cable so it doesn't connect pins 9+10. If you go with this option, you'll probably want to add switch #1 to your xbox so you can enable normal video if you want to.
Something's wrong with your Pb and/or Pr connections - that's why the picture shows up white. The way Hi-def connections work is this: the green supplies the luminance (brightness, greyscale) of the picture. The red and blue provide the difference that those colors are from the max brightness of the picture. So, if red and blue aren't working, you'll just get a greyscale picture for the most part. Make sure they're connected to the right spots, and that they're nice and secure.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 04, 2005, 03:01:00 AM
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or if i make pin 9+10 not connect will the av cable still work normally without hi def mode on. because io have a tv which isnt hi def?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on February 04, 2005, 02:29:00 PM
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Now that your hi-def connection is working, you need to actually enable at least one hi-def display mode in your MS dashboard. (i.e. 480p, 720p, and/or 1080i)... You'll probably just want to enable every mode that your HDTV supports. When you run games they will run in the highest mode that they support that you have enabled.
Right now, your xbox is outputting in 480i, which is the same as is outputted with the normal A/V cord that comes with the xbox. (Called composite video). Enabling the hi-def video modes will not keep composite video from working.
If you remove the connections from pins 9+10 on your standard cable, you will have to add a switch to reconnect them when you want normal video again. (switch 1 on Jared's diagram) When you want normal video, turn switch 1 on and 2+3 off, and the opposite when you want HD. When you switch to normal video (composite), your xbox will automatically output in 480i, because that is the highest that composite supports. When you switch back to HD, whichever modes you enabled before will be used again.
I hope this was helpful for you.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 04, 2005, 05:11:00 PM
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Post by: Jameson42 on February 03, 2005, 09:38:00 AM
Let me know what happens.
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 04:40:00 PM
i took the cable out and im getting picture but its still white, and has green for some parts. not what it supposed to be. so i take out the cable for the blue connection and the picture is still the same, meaning i have 2 cables same picture.
now i took out the red cable, so now the only cable still in is the green one. now the picture shows up but its black and white. do you think it could be my connections?
thanks
if you have msn add me
[email protected]
as ive been in this topic asking questions etc for a while.
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 05:02:00 PM
this is the picture i get. only some is green.
its looks blue but it is green
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 03, 2005, 10:51:00 PM
do i also have to do a audio mod aswell, for the right and left speakers?
thanks and sorry for all my posts
Post by: Jameson42 on February 03, 2005, 11:18:00 PM
Something's wrong with your Pb and/or Pr connections - that's why the picture shows up white. The way Hi-def connections work is this: the green supplies the luminance (brightness, greyscale) of the picture. The red and blue provide the difference that those colors are from the max brightness of the picture. So, if red and blue aren't working, you'll just get a greyscale picture for the most part. Make sure they're connected to the right spots, and that they're nice and secure.
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 04, 2005, 03:01:00 AM
or if i make pin 9+10 not connect will the av cable still work normally without hi def mode on. because io have a tv which isnt hi def?
Post by: Jameson42 on February 04, 2005, 02:29:00 PM
Right now, your xbox is outputting in 480i, which is the same as is outputted with the normal A/V cord that comes with the xbox. (Called composite video). Enabling the hi-def video modes will not keep composite video from working.
If you remove the connections from pins 9+10 on your standard cable, you will have to add a switch to reconnect them when you want normal video again. (switch 1 on Jared's diagram) When you want normal video, turn switch 1 on and 2+3 off, and the opposite when you want HD. When you switch to normal video (composite), your xbox will automatically output in 480i, because that is the highest that composite supports. When you switch back to HD, whichever modes you enabled before will be used again.
I hope this was helpful for you.
Post by: eminvil_12 on February 04, 2005, 05:11:00 PM
QUOTE(Jameson42 @ Feb 4 2005, 09:35 PM)
Now that your hi-def connection is working, you need to actually enable at least one hi-def display mode in your MS dashboard. (i.e. 480p, 720p, and/or 1080i)... You'll probably just want to enable every mode that your HDTV supports. When you run games they will run in the highest mode that they support that you have enabled.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on February 04, 2005, 09:42:00 PM
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First thing's first, to enable hi-def video modes:
while your hi-def video connection is hooked up, in the MS Dash, Go to settings, then video. There should be options on your screen now for video mode, 480P, 720P, and 1080I. You only get access to these options when you use the hi-def video connections.
In order to disconnect pins 9+10 from each other, you have to open the part of the cable that connects to the xbox. If you look around where the plastic meets the metal, there are 4 holes (2 on each side). These holes match metal tabs within the plastic. If you force the plastic away from the metal in these spots while pulling it down the cord, you should be able to pull the sleave off. (I actually cut mine off... which you can do if it proves to difficult to remove it otherwise - cut in a straight line down the back and you can even put it back on, and glue the edges together or whatever.) Once you've done this you have to remove the metal shielding. Actually, I just remembered that these same directions are in the tutorial for making a VGA cable... you might want to take a quick look at that.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Darchi on February 06, 2005, 01:52:00 PM
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I need to make only rgb scart cable, but that i can stil use original xbox cable! Can i make rgb scart cable without switches (simply solder to motherboard),but that i can stil use original xbox cable?????
Thanx!!!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: HazeMoney on February 11, 2005, 12:42:00 PM
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It was my first mod
and it went pretty well.
I bought a SPDT switch for 3 bucks, the 8 plug set for 5 and used a small chunk of cat 5 cable giving me hdtv connections for under 15 bucks.
Hell of a deal and much nicer to have the connections right on the back of the box.
I just wanted to thank JaredC01 for answering questions and sharing this with us. I also want to thank the others that have contributed to this post. Welll done people.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sonix on February 12, 2005, 08:52:00 AM
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nice work hazemonkay! post more pics!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 12, 2005, 10:25:00 AM
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Looks good HazeMonkey, and it's my pleasure helping everyone out!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 12, 2005, 02:37:00 PM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: blueinfinity on February 14, 2005, 09:36:00 PM
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Hi i'm doing a mod similair to this..d oes anyone know the pinout of this but for the mail part of the end of a cable? im trying to figure out which pin is 1??
um ok more info
i took one of the standard xbox Red, white yellow cables and lopped the xbox end off it
so i have the male chunk for input into the xbox
i strpped it and have the part sitting infront of me
it comes with ports 9 and 10 jumped for the rca. but this isnt helping me. i can not figure out which of the pins is pin 1?
anyone know which pin is pin 1?
sorry this is REALLY hard to explain!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: karsx on February 17, 2005, 03:19:00 AM
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Thanks in advance.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on February 17, 2005, 09:07:00 AM
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I'll see if I can add some inside pics in the next few days. No, the advance pack doesn't have all the wires for the VGA mod... A hi-def pack would, however. And if you didn't add composite output or anything to the hi-def pack, you wouldn't need to add any switches.
In order to wire the VGA connector to a advanced pack, you need the missing blue positive wire. The grounds are all shared. If you plan on being able to switch between video modes, you need one wire for each switch in jared's diagram. You don't have to "add" wires to do this, though... you can just take advantage of the common ground and steal some wires - for example, disconnect the negative green inside the box and inside the AVIP plug, and connect it to something else for your purposes - just make sure where the green negative originally connected to in the box still gets a ground from somewhere.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: karsx on February 17, 2005, 11:55:00 AM
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Post by: Jameson42 on February 04, 2005, 09:42:00 PM
while your hi-def video connection is hooked up, in the MS Dash, Go to settings, then video. There should be options on your screen now for video mode, 480P, 720P, and 1080I. You only get access to these options when you use the hi-def video connections.
In order to disconnect pins 9+10 from each other, you have to open the part of the cable that connects to the xbox. If you look around where the plastic meets the metal, there are 4 holes (2 on each side). These holes match metal tabs within the plastic. If you force the plastic away from the metal in these spots while pulling it down the cord, you should be able to pull the sleave off. (I actually cut mine off... which you can do if it proves to difficult to remove it otherwise - cut in a straight line down the back and you can even put it back on, and glue the edges together or whatever.) Once you've done this you have to remove the metal shielding. Actually, I just remembered that these same directions are in the tutorial for making a VGA cable... you might want to take a quick look at that.
Post by: Darchi on February 06, 2005, 01:52:00 PM
Thanx!!!
Post by: HazeMoney on February 11, 2005, 12:42:00 PM
It was my first mod
and it went pretty well. I bought a SPDT switch for 3 bucks, the 8 plug set for 5 and used a small chunk of cat 5 cable giving me hdtv connections for under 15 bucks.
Hell of a deal and much nicer to have the connections right on the back of the box.I just wanted to thank JaredC01 for answering questions and sharing this with us. I also want to thank the others that have contributed to this post. Welll done people.
Post by: sonix on February 12, 2005, 08:52:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on February 12, 2005, 10:25:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on February 12, 2005, 02:37:00 PM
Post by: blueinfinity on February 14, 2005, 09:36:00 PM
um ok more info
i took one of the standard xbox Red, white yellow cables and lopped the xbox end off it
so i have the male chunk for input into the xbox
i strpped it and have the part sitting infront of me
it comes with ports 9 and 10 jumped for the rca. but this isnt helping me. i can not figure out which of the pins is pin 1?
anyone know which pin is pin 1?
sorry this is REALLY hard to explain!
Post by: karsx on February 17, 2005, 03:19:00 AM
Thanks in advance.
Post by: Jameson42 on February 17, 2005, 09:07:00 AM
In order to wire the VGA connector to a advanced pack, you need the missing blue positive wire. The grounds are all shared. If you plan on being able to switch between video modes, you need one wire for each switch in jared's diagram. You don't have to "add" wires to do this, though... you can just take advantage of the common ground and steal some wires - for example, disconnect the negative green inside the box and inside the AVIP plug, and connect it to something else for your purposes - just make sure where the green negative originally connected to in the box still gets a ground from somewhere.
Post by: karsx on February 17, 2005, 11:55:00 AM
QUOTE(Jameson42 @ Feb 17 2005, 08:13 AM)
I'll see if I can add some inside pics in the next few days. No, the advance pack doesn't have all the wires for the VGA mod... A hi-def pack would, however. And if you didn't add composite output or anything to the hi-def pack, you wouldn't need to add any switches.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jameson42 on February 17, 2005, 06:59:00 PM
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you need switches if you plan on using vga sometimes and just the normal A/V pack other times.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 22, 2005, 05:39:00 PM
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Brand new diagram that should be more user-friendly. Broken each A/V pack down into its own image.
If anyone objects to this diagram, and would rather have the other one back, just let me know.
Edit: SP
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sonix on February 22, 2005, 07:17:00 PM
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that is beacuse my hd pack was still in the original jumper setting.
but now, i ask, why do the lines flicker a little bit? i get good colours but the lines seem to be a bit jittering?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: wicket_lfe on February 22, 2005, 08:33:00 PM
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With this mod, can u use the origial AV cable? Or more specificaly in my case, can i use the X2VGA without problems?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 22, 2005, 08:45:00 PM
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Post by: Jameson42 on February 17, 2005, 06:59:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on February 22, 2005, 05:39:00 PM
If anyone objects to this diagram, and would rather have the other one back, just let me know.
Edit: SP
Post by: sonix on February 22, 2005, 07:17:00 PM
but now, i ask, why do the lines flicker a little bit? i get good colours but the lines seem to be a bit jittering?
Post by: wicket_lfe on February 22, 2005, 08:33:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on February 22, 2005, 08:45:00 PM
QUOTE(sonix @ Feb 22 2005, 08:38 PM)
when i reboot the xbox, that jitter sometimes goes away, if it doesnt, rebooting a second time surely works.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: wicket_lfe on February 22, 2005, 09:26:00 PM
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IF i only add the red white and composite, im assuming i still ned switch 1 correct? So if i want to use the X2VGA, i would turn the switch off. If they're both on, is that a problem? thanks for the help.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 22, 2005, 09:52:00 PM
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Post by: wicket_lfe on February 22, 2005, 09:26:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on February 22, 2005, 09:52:00 PM
QUOTE(wicket_lfe @ Feb 22 2005, 09:32 PM)
IF i only add the red white and composite, im assuming i still ned switch 1 correct? So if i want to use the X2VGA, i would turn the switch off. If they're both on, is that a problem? thanks for the help.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: wicket_lfe on February 22, 2005, 10:12:00 PM
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sorry for all the questions. So what you're saying is, that with the standard AV plugged in, everything is grounded, and you can't have any other video? If that's correct, is there a way I can have the X2VGA work for an LCD and have output for a regular tv? I'm building a casebox so unplugging stuff would be a pain.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: wicket_lfe on February 23, 2005, 07:49:00 AM
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I've concluded that I can't run both at the same time. So I'm going to attempt to make a switch between the AV outputs and the x2vga. This means i'll have to dismantle the connector for the x2vga, which should be the same pinout as a regular Scart cable right?. Form there I guess i'll just solder onto the Mobo, and add a switch somewhere along the way.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 23, 2005, 04:07:00 PM
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Post by: wicket_lfe on February 22, 2005, 10:12:00 PM
Post by: wicket_lfe on February 23, 2005, 07:49:00 AM
I've concluded that I can't run both at the same time. So I'm going to attempt to make a switch between the AV outputs and the x2vga. This means i'll have to dismantle the connector for the x2vga, which should be the same pinout as a regular Scart cable right?. Form there I guess i'll just solder onto the Mobo, and add a switch somewhere along the way.
Post by: JaredC01 on February 23, 2005, 04:07:00 PM
QUOTE(wicket_lfe @ Feb 22 2005, 10:18 PM)
sorry for all the questions. So what you're saying is, that with the standard AV plugged in, everything is grounded, and you can't have any other video? If that's correct, is there a way I can have the X2VGA work for an LCD and have output for a regular tv? I'm building a casebox so unplugging stuff would be a pain.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: wicket_lfe on February 23, 2005, 06:59:00 PM
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But thanks a lot for your help.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 23, 2005, 08:50:00 PM
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Post by: wicket_lfe on February 23, 2005, 06:59:00 PM
But thanks a lot for your help.
Post by: JaredC01 on February 23, 2005, 08:50:00 PM
QUOTE(wicket_lfe @ Feb 23 2005, 07:05 PM)
after spending a day at work, i figured that all out. but thanks a lot for your help, sorry for all those dumb posts from before. You ever post something, to figure it out later, and realize how stupid it sounds? that was me all day at work while i was reading forums. But thanks a lot for your help.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: DJ KooPee on February 25, 2005, 02:54:00 PM
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OK, read though the guide and i've got 1 question..
I have a V1.1 XBOX which won't display video, I think the standard video socket is knackered.
If I install composite connection (red, yellow, white) can I skip the switch or will I have to bridge the two points???
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 25, 2005, 03:19:00 PM
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But thanks a lot for your help. Post by: DJ KooPee on February 25, 2005, 02:54:00 PM
I have a V1.1 XBOX which won't display video, I think the standard video socket is knackered.
If I install composite connection (red, yellow, white) can I skip the switch or will I have to bridge the two points???
Post by: JaredC01 on February 25, 2005, 03:19:00 PM
QUOTE(DJ KooPee @ Feb 25 2005, 03:00 PM)
OK, read though the guide and i've got 1 question..
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: spillage on February 26, 2005, 04:36:00 PM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 27, 2005, 10:03:00 AM
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Post by: spillage on February 26, 2005, 04:36:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on February 27, 2005, 10:03:00 AM
QUOTE(spillage @ Feb 26 2005, 04:42 PM)
JaredC01, sweet additions to already sweet diagrams.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 27, 2005, 11:03:00 AM
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Post by: JaredC01 on February 27, 2005, 11:03:00 AM
QUOTE(RARusk @ Feb 27 2005, 01:15 AM)
After reading through most of this topic and noticing that you guys are using sync separator chips, I thought I should throw my two cents in.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on February 28, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
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One stupid question. How do you post pictures in this particular forum? I don't have a URL to link pictures from and apparently there is no way to upload pictures to into my messages so I need a little help in this regard. I'm a little new to this place and I did read the help files but they gave me no clue on how to post pictures.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on March 01, 2005, 10:09:00 AM
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www.photobucket.com
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on March 02, 2005, 12:33:00 AM
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Thanks for the info Jared. I'll check it out.
Had a spare Xbox plug laying around and decided to play around with the VGA mode and see it for myself (after getting it to work in 15Khz RGB I took out one of the mode pins to activate VGA mode).
Man, what a mess. Only the green line is active (red and blue are not), messed up sync lines, and when I put in "DOA: XBV" it comes up in some sort of interlaced picture.
Gonna take more than a sync chip to clean that up.....
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: DJ KooPee on March 04, 2005, 06:43:00 AM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on March 04, 2005, 10:09:00 AM
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Post by: RARusk on February 28, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on March 01, 2005, 10:09:00 AM
Post by: RARusk on March 02, 2005, 12:33:00 AM
Had a spare Xbox plug laying around and decided to play around with the VGA mode and see it for myself (after getting it to work in 15Khz RGB I took out one of the mode pins to activate VGA mode).
Man, what a mess. Only the green line is active (red and blue are not), messed up sync lines, and when I put in "DOA: XBV" it comes up in some sort of interlaced picture.
Gonna take more than a sync chip to clean that up.....
Post by: DJ KooPee on March 04, 2005, 06:43:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on March 04, 2005, 10:09:00 AM
QUOTE(DJ KooPee @ Mar 4 2005, 06:49 AM)
To save me trawling through this topic, could someone tell me if this wire is OK to do the composite connections (yellow, red, white) or do I have to use something special??
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BLUEku on March 05, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
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okay got the pins figured out but no signal
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BLUEku on March 06, 2005, 07:48:00 PM
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I think I had it half way working, because when I would turn it on my monitor would stay black and make a clicking noise, but when I would set the Dips to ON, OFF, ON. My monitor would say no signal.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BLUEku on March 07, 2005, 02:53:00 AM
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OKAY I GOT IT GIVING ME A SIGNAL, but now it tells me that the frequency is to high and that I need to lower my resolution. I have tried enableing 480P with AVALAUNCH, X3 3029 bios, and using just a HD ready game. I also tried joing AVIP 13-14 12-11 together on another adapter. STILL NO LUCK AHHHHHHHHH!! help PLEASE I BEGG OF YOU!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on March 08, 2005, 12:49:00 AM
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As requested by Jared, here is some of the information on sync chips I promised to put up.
Below is a picture of my old reliable EL4583 setup on an experiment board:
As you can see, it has gone through many revisions and it looks kind of messy. I use this chip now to do various RGB experiments. You may notice two large resistors and a switch to the right. I use them for progressive scan experiments. One resistor is used for 15Khz (681K ohm) and the other is used for 31Khz (340K ohm) and they are both hooked up to RSET and I switch between them as necessary.
Below is a picture taken from the EL4583 datasheet:
Below is how you hook it up:
Pin 1 - Connect to ground with a 22K ohm resistor.
Pin 2 - Connect to ground with a 83K ohm resistor.
Pin 3 - Connect to Composite Sync pin on monitor.
Pin 4 - This is the built-in Chroma Filter. Feed Composite Video to this pin if you need to use the filter.
Pin 5 - Connect to Vertical Sync pin on monitor.
Pin 6 - Connect to ground.
Pin 7 - Whatever you fed through Pin 4 comes out here. Feed to Pin 8 with a 0.1uf capacitor.
Pin 8 - You can either feed the video line directly or use the Chroma Filter and connect to Pin 7 with a 0.1uf capacitor.
Pin 9, 10, 11 - Not used.
Pin 12 - Use either a 681K ohm (1%) resistor for 15Khz (interlaced video) usage or a 340K ohm (1%) resistor for 31Khz (progressive scan) usage. Connect resistor to ground.
Pin 13 - Not used.
Pin 14 - Connect to +5VDC.
Pin 15 - Connect to Horizontal Sync pin on monitor.
Pin 16 - Connect to ground.
I'll put up pictures of my EL1883 setup later.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sandman1687 on March 08, 2005, 04:14:00 PM
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quick note to jaredc01, i have successfully tested the TOTX179 series of optical transmitters to be working. the only difference between the 178 and the 179 is that the 178 is set to recieve 6Mbps streams, while the 179 can recieve 15Mbps streams: the 178 can only go up to 48KHz audio, but the 179 can go up to 96KHz. also, the entire 17x series is soon to be replaced with the TOTX177, which is backwards compatable, and features the 15Mbps capability.
edit: i just ordered the EL4583 device from digikey, and will be experimenting with it when recieved. thanks to RARusk for the pinout descriptions.
This post has been edited by sandman1687: Mar 9 2005, 12:15 AM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sandman1687 on March 08, 2005, 05:14:00 PM
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i was just looking through the datasheets again, and saw that the .1uF capacitor for the optical out must be less than 7mm from the transmitter itself. i have experienced problems with moving the capacitor at least 1" from the transmitter, so it'd be a good idea to directly solder the capacitor onto the transmitter.
in the video realm of things: i just finished educating myself on sync seperators, and realized that all the LM1881 does is take the composite sync input (in this case the Y) and split it into vertical sync on pin 3 and composite sync out (horizontal) on pin 1. what im wondering is what the VGA bios specifically triggers to allow VGA output. i have also reviewed several PS2 AV pinouts, and it seems that the ps2 uses composite sync and regular composite video in the same pin. could the same be done to the xbox to allow for full-time VGA output?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on March 09, 2005, 12:58:00 AM
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Now for my EL1883 setup:
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL1883.jpg)
As you can see, this is very different from the EL4583 setup. For starters, the chip is only available as a surface mount so I had to find a way to use it with regular Radio Shack protoboards. What I did was to cut a one inch length of 30 gauge wire and gently soldered it to the bottom of a pin. I did this for all eight pins. Then, once I finished soldering, I bent the wires down and fed them through a protoboard. Then, after straightening the chip and protruding wires on the other side, I taped the chip down then flipped the board so I could solder the thin wires in place. I then cut the section out and soldered regular wires so I could use it properly on another board I was using for my RGB box (for my game consoles). The board section is secured to the other board with foam tape. It's a little crude but effective. The black gunk you see around the chip is liquid tape which I used to help protect the thin wires.
Below is a picture taken from the EL1883 datasheet:
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL1883Two.jpg)
As you can see it is very similar to the LM1881. Pinouts are as follows:
Pin 1 - Composite Sync to monitor.
Pin 2 - Composite Video in. With regular Composite Video you need to have a Chroma Filter for proper usage. A Chroma Filter usually is a 620 ohm resistor then the video is connected to ground with a 510 pf capacitor. Then the video from that connection point is run through a 0.1 uf capacitor on it's way to the chip. If you use Luminance from S-Video you won't need the 620 ohm resistor and 510 pf capacitor.
Pin 3 - Vertical Sync to monitor.
Pin 4 - Connect to ground.
Pin 5 - Not used.
Pin 6 - Connect either a 681K ohm (1%) resistor (for 15Khz - interlaced) or a 340K ohm (1%) resistor (for 31Khz - progressive scan) to ground.
Pin 7 - Horizontal Sync to monitor.
Pin 8 - Connect to +5VDC.
As for something Sandman1687 brought up: on the PS2 you have to use a sync chip to use RGB from it. Sony, for whatever dumb reason, decided not to put in a dedicated sync line for using RGB from either the PS1 or PS2 consoles. You HAVE to extract the sync from either Composite Video or Luminance using a sync chip. Worse, MacroVision screws up regular sync chips when you want to watch movies in RGB. I don't know what I would've done without the EL1883 fixing that problem. I have two PS2's and one of them has been dissembled. I intend to try to get that one working again and will try to find the sync lines straight off of the motherboard so I won't have to put up with that crap. If I get everything to where I want then I will try to trick VGA (for everything) out of it by poking a ground wire in the right place. Risky but what the hell - see what pops up. Wish me luck.
I will try to bring in some data on the EL4511 later.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sandman1687 on March 09, 2005, 07:04:00 AM
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i decided to hold off on ordering the EL4583 so i can wait and see if the 4511 will eliminate the bios need. thankfully, i have a 1.0, and i am gonna pull the hsync and vsync directly from the conexant chip, and see how that goes. i know i've seen some entries about it on xbox-linux, but never heard success stories.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on March 09, 2005, 10:06:00 PM
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Very nice job on the circuits... I'll work on adding them to the tutorial soon. Let me know what you come up with using the 4511... I know there's a way to get it working without a VGA bios... might involve using a microcontroller though...
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on March 10, 2005, 12:39:00 AM
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Now for some information on the EL4511. Mind you, I do NOT have this chip at this time. I'm just going by the datasheet:
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL4511.jpg)
You'll notice that it is a lot bigger than the other chips and is a lot more complex. It is designed to operate with HDTV and multiple sync environments (such as Component Video which can switch between interlaced and prgressive scan on the fly - the reason it can autosync without the need for an RSET resistor). It can also be operated with microcontrollers if you need to use it in that way. I had said earlier that it can be used in removing sync from video and I was half right. You see, one of the ways to remove sync is to multiplex two special signals, VBLANK and CLAMP, into a video signal. VBLANK nullifies the vertical sync and CLAMP nullifies the horizontal sync. Strangely enough only VBLANK is present on the 4511.
But the 4511 can be used for standard RGB analog usage (interlaced and progressive scan):
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL4511Two.jpg)
As you can see, some of the pins you attach to ground, some you attach to +5VDC, and you input video on pin 10 (composite sync out (pin 19) is not shown in the picture). There is no RSET resistor. You really would not need to use pins 9 and 11 unless you wanted to created composite sync from separate sync.
I should go and get one for myself if I can only find composite sync from my PS2 motherboard and use it for progressive scan games (like "Soul Caliber II"). I hope I have been able to give you guys good info on all of the chips I have used and know about up to this point despite not having used the 4511 myself.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BLUEku on March 18, 2005, 06:07:00 AM
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LoL i guess everyone looked at this, scratched their heads and walked off :P
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: karsx on March 18, 2005, 07:39:00 PM
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:D LOL You know it. :D
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on March 20, 2005, 12:27:00 AM
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Sorry if I got a little technical there. I was merely trying to share my knowledge of sync separators with the group. I hope I didn't scare you guys off.....
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BLUEku on March 20, 2005, 04:41:00 AM
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no its a great post, just tring to make use of it. I used L33 vga cable guide and fix the AVP 8 problem, but my monitor gets a signal, but says something about the frequency is out of range, I have no clue as how to fix it either, I have tried bios, enable the 480i or what ever and still have a no go.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sandman1687 on March 20, 2005, 11:29:00 AM
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hey man, if that 4511 turns out to solve the vga proglem, you'd be a savior to many people (including myself). jared mentioned that if combined with a microcontroller we could maybe get vga. what kind of microcontroller would one need?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on March 20, 2005, 12:12:00 PM
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Still doing some research on it... as far as I know right now... you may not need the microcontroller... I'll post some info once I figure something out. It will probably be a while though... I haven't even ordered the 4511 chip yet.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on March 21, 2005, 12:19:00 AM
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Go to Intersil's web site and go to their sample request sheet. I usually ask for about three units for any chip I am interested in when I ask for a sample.
After submitting a request you will usually get a phone call from one of their engineers (I usually end up talking with Rudy who I've dealt with over the years). These guys will end up talking way over your head but if you explain to them that you are simply using it for Xbox VGA experiments you will usually get the samples (along with some useful information). This will also save you a few bucks in the process.
These guys have been very good to me since I started dealing with them a few years back when they were still known as Elantec. I highly recommend going through them when dealing with sync separators or any other kind of chips.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on March 21, 2005, 12:21:00 AM
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www.intersil.com
Forgot to add the web address. Duh!
It's getting late here and I need to go to bed.....
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sandman1687 on March 21, 2005, 07:02:00 AM
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excellent, i might go ahead and see if i can get a sample
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Morninglight on February 13, 2006, 09:46:00 AM
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I soldered my own outputs to the mainboard and bridged the 4 points as shown on the first page.. sound is ok but I don't see anything on my screen when I boot the xbox with the componentcable connected..
The xbox is set to NTSC (no more PAL-60 in the menu) & Widescreen
When I plug the normal A/V cable in the xbox reboots and shows video...
btw, my dash is Evox.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: lasse82 on February 13, 2006, 11:09:00 AM
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I have a problem, i can´t get my S -video output working. enyone who have same problem??
i use ground on moterboard.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: speedypancake on February 13, 2006, 11:28:00 AM
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The project "original xbox AV-cable 2 HDTV-componentcable" is finished and it worked but there is something wrong with the audio. I think that the coaxial that I used for audio is broken
I made the connections like in my previous picture. Sorry not to have any photos about project.
Those damn connections in the AV plug are very small and you must be very careful not to make short-circuits.
Stupid question, but did you enable the digital audio in the ms dash settings??
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: speedypancake on February 13, 2006, 02:10:00 PM
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Stupid question, but did you enable the digital audio in the ms dash settings??
OOPS.. thought you didn't have sound. So you hard-wired your lead for HD video but you can't see anything. What are you connecting your component leads to? Can you connect the "green" plug to a normal composite video in.. can you see anything?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Mazzimus on February 14, 2006, 01:33:00 AM
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OOPS.. thought you didn't have sound. So you hard-wired your lead for HD video but you can't see anything. What are you connecting your component leads to? Can you connect the "green" plug to a normal composite video in.. can you see anything?
The digital audio was set on allready before. Problem was the broken wire for audio. I changed the wire and now all works great.
All wires that are ground are connected "together" when they are wired to AV plug. I tested that with multimeter.
I think that the groundposition must be same or you get problems with picture. Maybe its little different in the xbox or in the wires. Im not so pro to say for sure.
I connect those component cables to projector. If I enable 480p in projector all OK but when I start to play with 720p game the screen goes crazy. I enable 720p in projector-->OK
Can also use auto mode. This could be problem if you cant get picture.
Sorry for bad english. I'm from FINLAND
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: lasse82 on February 14, 2006, 07:32:00 AM
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Works all ground for anything or need i connect the ground for all the outputs on the place that shows.
ex. if i set a cabel from composit -, to ground anywear in the xbox. does it works then??
SORRY MY BAD ENGLISH!! i hope you understand me.
I have a problem, i can´t get my S -video output working. enyone who have same problem??
i use ground on moterboard.
PLEASE ANSWER THIS!!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Morninglight on February 14, 2006, 01:11:00 PM
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I double checked and found out that I had one bad connection, green... so that's why I didn't have any picture..
Looks crisp and clear @720p & 1080i
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Morninglight on February 14, 2006, 01:53:00 PM
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Maybe it is posted before in the last 36 pages but here is some small advice from me:
Before connecting the xbox to you TV check the + from every video channel to ground, it should read about 75 Ohms.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 19, 2006, 01:48:00 AM
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A quick help please...I see that if i use an advanced MS cable with optic input i don't have the analogic(stereo) or digital output.And,controlling soldering on the back i see that if i pull out the wire that goes from point 1(vcc) to lm1881n everything seems to work!i think that there's not available voltage for them.What should i do?
I'm going to forget the first part of you post and focus more on the part about removing the LM1881N wire to get everything working again...
What you'll need to do, is wire the LM1881N directly to a +5v source.
I've snagged a picture from Xecuter's site for the X3 install on a 1.6 xbox. Ignore the fact it's for a 1.6, the only thing you'll need to be worried about is the 5v spot.
Simply solder a wire from the "Alternate 5v" spot, to the power input on the LM1881N.
That should get you up and running again.
On a side note, I'm actually working on a webpage for both of my tutorials, so no one has to look through endless pages for information. I may even include a forums for troubleshooting, but that's undecided as of right now.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: zwinglio on February 19, 2006, 02:29:00 AM
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Thanls JaredC01 for your answer,i resolved the problem checking solders and seeing that there was a problem.But i will use this alternate power for installing some others things like leds...:)Now circuit works,vga+coxial audio and optic but i've another question:If i use 480p my monitor goes black every 6-7 seconds and change frequency from 31.5Khz (H) to 31.4 Khz.I use a 5% tolerance 680Kohm resistor and i'd like to know if can resolve this problem changing resistor with another one with 1%tolerance or simply change the lm1881 with elantec 4581..Thank you
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 19, 2006, 11:06:00 AM
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Thanls JaredC01 for your answer,i resolved the problem checking solders and seeing that there was a problem.But i will use this alternate power for installing some others things like leds...:)Now circuit works,vga+coxial audio and optic but i've another question:If i use 480p my monitor goes black every 6-7 seconds and change frequency from 31.5Khz (H) to 31.4 Khz.I use a 5% tolerance 680Kohm resistor and i'd like to know if can resolve this problem changing resistor with another one with 1%tolerance or simply change the lm1881 with elantec 4581..Thank you
Many people say they don't have any problems with the 680K resistor at 5% tolerance. It's possible your monitor does, but I can't say either way for sure. It certainly wouldn't hurt to get a 1% and try it out.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 19, 2006, 12:16:00 PM
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I will try...Should i also check capacitors?I use ceramic and polyestere and i did not resolved the problem...
Ceramic capacitors can actually distort analog signals, so that very well may be your problem. If the 1% resistor doesn't fix the problem, try switching over to a tantalum capacitor. It's similar to an electrolytic capacitor, except it doesnt' have the spikes of an electrolytic. It's made for analog signals.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: zwinglio on February 22, 2006, 01:09:00 PM
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i tried resistors with 1% tolerance but i obtained nothing..same effect black-image-black-image and a frequency of H:31.5 V:59Hz .Are these 59Hz the problem?When i use 720p or 1080i i've 60Hz...
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: yu_mum on February 23, 2006, 05:17:00 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks for the tutorial. I used it in a mod i have just done putting an xbox in a dvd player case. Coun't have wired up the back panel without your help.
Here's a picture and a link for anyone interested.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=492381
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 25, 2006, 09:53:00 AM
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i tried resistors with 1% tolerance but i obtained nothing..same effect black-image-black-image and a frequency of H:31.5 V:59Hz .Are these 59Hz the problem?When i use 720p or 1080i i've 60Hz...
That's possible, but I couldn't tell you for certain either way. You might try checking a different monitor to see if the problem still occurrs. It's possible that your monitor doesn't like the sync signals coming from the LM1881N. I'm actually waiting on a few sample chips to come in so I can check how well each of them work (LM1881, EL1883, EL4583) with a VGA signal. I know the LM1881N works, but I want to compare the signal quality and compatability with the 1883 and the 4583.
Very nice work, glad the tutorial helped you.
On a side note, I've got the tutorials webpage about halfway finished. I'll probably finish it up within the next few days using the info I have right now. I'll have to update it once I check the 4583 and the 1883.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: zwinglio on February 27, 2006, 04:39:00 PM
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I will wait for your scheme Jaredc01..In the meantime i order el4581 and el4583 from rs-component and study datasheets..
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on March 06, 2006, 08:35:00 PM
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I recieved the last set of chips today. I now have the LM1881N, EL1883, and EL4583. I'll be ordering the rest of the components this week. Only downside, is that I'll have to find a friend to lend me an Xbox 1.0-1.5 to test it on. I'll hopefully get to work on building all of the circuits this week or next week. I'll post the schems on the new tutorial site I'm working on. I'm holding off on releasing it until I get the new circuits done.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: HardcorePooka on March 07, 2006, 11:49:00 PM
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Okay... this isn't exactly about High Def... but it's related somewhat so I'm gonna ask this in here...
I'm currently modding my xbox to put a PSOne LCD in, and to get this to work I have to bridge pins 9&10 for it to work without the cable plugged in... however, when I do plug the cable in, I get what looks like interference on the screen. Keep in mind, right now the LCD is not hooked up at all, I simply have everything wired up to do it. Now, I have figured out that this interference is caused by the bridging(I undid it and hooked it up to the TV and it was gone). Is there any way(short of a switch) to get rid of that interference... cuz I'll just switch it if I have to, but I'd prefer not to have to buy a DPST switch if I don't have to.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: markccalhoun on March 15, 2006, 09:16:00 AM
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Good Morning!
First, thank you for the wonderful job that you have done in preparing this tutorial. I am very grateful to you for all the time and effort youve spent in researching and presenting this information. I am just amazed at the quality if the drawing that you made using MS Paint. That is outstanding! Good job!
Now, I have read the 37 pages of this tutorial and the Xbox-Scene tutorial by DataBitz on Adding A Digital Output To Your Xbox at http://www.xbox-scen...ital-output.php, and dozens of other pages. I have google and yahoo searched this topic and cant find any better info than these two tutorials. The more I read, the more confused I get.
I am confused as to how to get a SP-DIF signal to my surround sound system as the two tutorials differ in which pins to use. All I am interested in accomplishing is adding an RCA plug to my Xbox to provide a coaxial digital output. I want to use the original cord, that came with the Xbox, to go to my TV and run an RCA patch cord to my surround sound system. I have an NTSC v1.6 Xbox.
The tutorial on Adding A Digital Output To Your Xbox says to run a wire from pin #3 (your pin #6) to the center terminal of the RCA plug, run a wire from pin #5 (your pin #10) to the outer terminal of the plug, and, ground pin #18 (your pin #11).
Your tutorial says to run a wire from pin #6 (pin #3 in the other tut) to the center terminal, run a wire from pin #24 to the outer terminal, and, install switches to short/ground pins #s 9 & 10 and 11 & 12.
My questions are (using your numbering): (a) Does it really make a difference if I use pin #24 and not pin #10 if they are both grounds? (b) Why use pin 24? © Can I just bridge pins #11 & #12 and get mode 2 A/V and have SP-DIF output? (d) Do I have to bridge pins #9 & #10 along with pins #11 & #12?
In simplified terms I am asking if I will be able to use the factory A/V plug and get SP-DIF out: if I connect pin #6 to the center terminal, connect pin #24 to the outer terminal, and, bridge pins #11 & #12? Will this accomplish what I want to do?
Thank you for any help that you can give me. I want to do this right the first time and any help that you can give me will be greatly appreciated by myself, and, I am sure that it will help others too.
Have a Great Day,
Mark
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: markccalhoun on March 15, 2006, 02:30:00 PM
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I GOT IT!!! JaredC01 YOU ARE THE MAN!!! PRAISE TO YOU!!! HELL YEAH!
PRAISE AND GLORY TO DataBitz, xerxes3rd, AND TO EVERYONE ELSE WHO WORKED ON THIS!!!!
THANK YOU!!!
Okay, this will help others who just want SP-DIF Out and to use the original A/V cable.
All that you have to do is:
(1) Run a wire from pin #6 to the center, +, Data terminal of your RCA plug.
(2) Run a wire from pin #24 to the outer, -, Ground terminal of your RCA plug.
(3) Jumper pins #11 & #12 together.
That's it. Don't do anything else.
You do not need to jumper pins #9 & #10 together as the original, factory A/V cord will do that for you when you have it plugged in.
I now have Dolby Digital, DTS, and THX surround sound fed to my surround sound system and IT SOUNDS GREAT! I tried it on the 007 Everthing or Nothing game disk and it was good.
I tried it on Destroy All Humans off of my Hard Drive and it was GREAT. The sounds and voices were all around me. It was fantastic.
This is the best, cheapest mod I could ever have hoped for for my Xbox! It took 6 hours of research, cost me less than $5 and it improved my gaming experience 1000%. I recommend this for everyone!
(JaredC01, you and I have the same birthday.........Only I was born in 1960.)
Have a WONDERFUL day! Mark
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: DJSnels on March 16, 2006, 06:16:00 AM
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does this diagram also handle 1080i on the vga-output?
i doubt about buying an x2vga but it`s a little expensive. so i hope this diagram has the same specifications as the x2vga (www.x2vga.com)
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: markccalhoun on March 17, 2006, 04:16:00 PM
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Toshiba TOTX176 Optical Transmitters are availabe for $7.03 each at:
B&D Enterprises
Main & Liberty Street
PO Box 460
Russell, PA 16345
Web Site: http://www.bdent.com/index.jsp
Sales: 1-800-458-6053
Engineering: 1-814-757-8300
Fax: 1-814-757-5400
They answer the phones until 7:00pm Eastern Time. I called and talked to them and they keep these in stock.
They have a $15 minimum order. They also charge a $1.50 order handling fee for orders under $100.
It took me less than 5 minutes to create a log-in and place my order online.
I just spent a few hours looking for these things and either the company that I found them at was outside the USA or (most of them) had a $100 minimum order requirement. The few other companies that I found them at in the USA wanted $12+ to $17+ for them, and, had a $50 (1 Company) to $100 (all other companies) minimum order.
Hope this helps you out.
Mark
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on March 19, 2006, 06:27:00 PM
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does this diagram also handle 1080i on the vga-output?
i doubt about buying an x2vga but it`s a little expensive.
so i hope this diagram has the same specifications as the x2vga (www.x2vga.com)
Use the High Def settings to use 1080i on a VGA monitor. Most of the new vga bios's work with high def mode enabled. I will indeed post a link to the new tutorial when I get it finished. I'll have to wait until this coming Friday to order the parts needed for the 1883, and 4583 chips for extra VGA sync options (and possibly better options). Right now it's looking like next week will be probably be the week it will be released. I'm also thinking about adding my Dual Burst circuit to it, which is based off of Mattie's 556 circuit.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: hjf on April 09, 2006, 06:31:00 PM
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Hi all. I'm trying to get a little more quality video from my XBOX. Currently I'm using regular composite video, that's all my TV can handle. But I will plug it to a newer set. Oddly enough, this set has composite and component, but not s-video.
That is, this TV set has a YCbCr input (not YPbPr as in progressive). Can I use the advanced AV-pack with this set? I would need the output to be on the component plugs, but with SD Interlaced video: plain old 480i
Can this be done? If so, besides the cable, how?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Jesper64 on April 11, 2006, 09:39:00 AM
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Y/Cb/Cr is essentially the same thing as Y/Pb/Pr at least for the consumer market I believe. I think they have largely been used interchangeably when they aren't exactly the same thing.
If your TV has Y/Cb/Cr then it will support component input. And no you cannot use the Advanced AV-Pack with that set only the High Definition AV Pack. The difference between S-Video and Component is much larger than that between S-video and composite, as S-video and composite is the same signal but split in two for S-video. I'd advise getting/making a component cable if you can.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: hjf on April 11, 2006, 06:11:00 PM
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Actually YCbCr should not be the same as YPbPr. YCbCr is standard, interlaced. YPbPr is progressive. But people don't know or care. A friend of mine had a 42" plasma and a dvd, and he used the composite input. I showed him the Component input in progressive mode and he was impressed with the quality.
I built the YCbCr cable for the xbox and it worked on my 29" CRT Philips set, but the quality was no that much better than S-Video (I gues because my tv is neither HD nor progressive).
I was going to move the newer 21" CRT set to my room for the XBOX but I found out it has only 1 AV input. It doesn't even have a front AV input (the 29" on the other hand is a top-of-the-line "MatchLine" --from 3 years ago and has 3 AV inputs AV1 composite only, AV2 composite/CVI, and AV3 composite/S-Video. plus the side input).
Anyways as all my Philips are latin american sets, they have PAL-N/M/B/G/I and NTSC inputs. Does PAL look better? I know it has a few extra lines. Can I switch my XBOX to PAL? It's just softmodded. What happens if I play a NTSC game on a PAL machine or vice versa?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: irfan on April 12, 2006, 07:12:00 PM
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you cant just say svideo->component diff is bigger than composite-->svideo. it all just depends on the TV.
i noticed a MUCH bigger difference between composite/s instead of s/component on my set at home.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: hjf on April 13, 2006, 10:06:00 AM
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Hjf - you can switch to PAL but a PAL Xbox does not support HD resolutions. If your using just normal video then you may see a slight quality increase, but don't forget PAL has a slower refresh rate than NTSC. And as far as games go, doesn't seem to alter gameplay in anyway. I've got a PAL xbox that I swapped to NTSC for HD, and the games still run fine without a problem.
I don't have an HD TV and won't be having one for a while. My country (Argentina) is still deciding which HD standard to go with. In 1998 they chose ATSC but now they're reviewing it.
My country is PAL-N so I'm using to 50Hz refresh rate -- there is no difference between 50 and 60 anyway. Not one I can notice I should say. But I do see a difference between PAL and NTSC. I can totally tell an NTSC signal from PAL. First off, colors are different. More saturated. Second, the scanlines are more noticeable. I think the extra PAL lines make a difference. Oh and third, the high-freq pitch from the TV is different
Now, how do I change it to PAL? I tried the "jumper" settings on the cable, but my box was still putting NTSC. And I can't use ENIGMAH's because of my softmod..
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Mooner2 on April 13, 2006, 07:28:00 PM
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For the switch can you use a slide switch like this one? Sorry for the simple mined question, it's the only problem that conflicted with me.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Mooner2 on April 13, 2006, 11:01:00 PM
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Alright thanks Jesper64. I found a dip select switch that would not consume as mush room as the slide ones. Looking into it.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: hjf on April 14, 2006, 08:55:00 PM
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To change it to PAL you should be able to use Enigmah even on a softmod. As long as you've can boot unsigned code you should be able to use Enigmah. I know I have done it personally in the past.
Yes, enigmah boots but doesn't save. Maybe because of my softmod? It has the shadow partition stuff. Xbox v 1.6.
Does it switch instantly? I press A and B and all that changes is the letters NTSC to PAL and vice versa on the screen, but the video mode is not actually changed, but when I reboot, it's still in NTSC.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: flag74 on April 25, 2006, 06:46:00 PM
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pls can someone check if i'm doing connections right?
i got a strange noise on component signal when i activate SPDIF output (mode2+3)
perhaps i need the 100nF on the ground signal of spdif?..i dont use optical...
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: veeper on May 06, 2006, 02:03:00 AM
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Is there any progress concerning the vga transcoder?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: tbirdturbo on May 07, 2006, 06:27:00 PM
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anyone?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Drago on May 10, 2006, 09:36:00 AM
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Not sure if this has been mentioned in the thread already, but it was just so many pages to read through
I have already added a coaxial digital out to my box a while ago. I have soldered point 11 & 12 together so that I get digital sound even with the original AV cable connected. I recently bought an LCD TV, and ordered some cheap component cables to get 720p. Will my coaxial connector work in high def AV? And is it a problem that I soldered pin 11 and 12 (will the component cable still work?)
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Drago on May 10, 2006, 09:51:00 AM
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i am going to be doing the hd mod for my xbox, what exactly is the coaxial audio? is coaxial like a cable wire end? i am unsure of what jack to get for that, also the vcc (black box) which one do i use, and were can i get that and the color coded panel mount jacks, anyone know?
Coaxial is just a type of cable. Coaxial audio is digital audio through a coaxial cable (in this case anyway).
You're probably best off using a female RCA plug. Then you can use a standard audio/video cable to connect it to your receiver (as long as it has a coaxial input, some receivers only have optical).
Not sure what you mean about the vcc. Color coded RCA mounts are sold several places, check your local radio shack or similar, maybe a TV repair shop or something.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: tbirdturbo on May 10, 2006, 01:46:00 PM
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vcc is what is says on the little black box on the HD diagram
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Drago on May 12, 2006, 02:23:00 AM
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Well, vcc is just positive voltage. In this case its probably +3,3v or 5v. If you were wondering about the coaxial/optical connectors there, you really just need one of them. It's 2 different kinds of cables for delivering digital sound. I would go with coaxial as it's the easiest, both to mount and to find the parts for.
Of course it would be nice to have both, but you just need one to get digitial sound out of the box.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: kevbird on May 13, 2006, 11:11:00 AM
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still not understanding the vcc, it shows as a black box with 3 connections? coaxial? is that like cable wire? or is it different coaxial, like rca jack?
also, to make it work it shows 2 switches, both switches shown need to be on?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Kackel on May 16, 2006, 05:34:00 AM
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Hello!
I have a problem.
I have made my own VGA output on the xbox and I have connected pins 11, 12 and 13, 14 so I get High Def A/V mode turned on according to Jareds fine diagram. But I still don't have the 480, 720 and 1080 alternatives selectable in the MS Dashboard? Only Normal, Letterbox and Widescreen... I have a 1.0 PAL xbox and I have turned NTSC mode on with the help of Enigmah. And I haven't made the sync separator circuit, but thats just because my screen support sync-on-green.
Anyone who can help?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: _-PhArOh-_ on May 20, 2006, 05:59:00 AM
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I need to find a Toslink Optical jack, I didn't find any at Radioshack or anywhere around here, where can I find them?
Cameron
_-PhArOh-_
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: mitpat on May 29, 2006, 05:09:00 PM
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sorry if this question has already been answered but i'm on a 56k connection atm
now you're all gonna call me crazy but from the diagram on the first page is it possible to combine the Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA all together so i can have all the output connections whose mode are then controlled by the switches
as well as this is it also possible to add a scart output
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: pimpmaul69 on May 29, 2006, 05:26:00 PM
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sorry if this question has already been answered but i'm on a 56k connection atm
now you're all gonna call me crazy but from the diagram on the first page is it possible to combine the Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA all together so i can have all the output connections whose mode are then controlled by the switches
as well as this is it also possible to add a scart output
click on the link in my sig to see the back of my xbox.. yes it is possible..and you only need two switches.. 1 spst switch and one dpst switch.. switch one goes on spst and 2 and 3 go on the dpst.. the reason is that vga and component are on switches 2 and 3 not 1 and 3 as some diagrams show.. and composite is on switch 1.. and rgb is all 3..so dont waste time having 3 switches...
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: mitpat on May 30, 2006, 06:09:00 AM
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thanks for clearing that up its nice to see that someone else has done it
for the sake of the argument if i connected Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA connections up just like in the diagrams and used 3 switches would it still work
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: pimpmaul69 on May 30, 2006, 08:40:00 PM
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thanks for clearing that up its nice to see that someone else has done it
for the sake of the argument if i connected Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA connections up just like in the diagrams and used 3 switches would it still work
i have all of those on the back of my xbox and only 2 switches
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: beefmaster on June 02, 2006, 02:38:00 AM
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bump so i cant find this later im not at home
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on June 10, 2006, 05:21:00 PM
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So it is possible to output toslink and digital coaxial simultaneously to two different places, correct?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: pimpmaul69 on June 10, 2006, 06:21:00 PM
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So it is possible to output toslink and digital coaxial simultaneously to two different places, correct?
i output 3 audios at the same time... works 4 me
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: kr580 on June 19, 2006, 06:21:00 PM
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I apologize for not reading but I don't have the time right now to read through 24 pages.
If I just want to output Component and Optical can I skip the switch part? And, where would I find the component and optical plugs for this?
Thanks - Kevin
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: kr580 on June 20, 2006, 03:53:00 AM
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no you wouldn't need a switch if you only want the ability to output one type of video. As far as plugs and stuff....www.partsexpress.com has a lot of great stuff, however I don't know if they have the right models for the optical output jack, there are only like 3 different models that will work with the xbox. I myself am still trying to find a place that has one of the working toslink jacks, does anybody here know a good website for that????
I found a site that sells two of the three models. They have the TOTX173 as well as the TOTX176.
There's a $15 buy limit. Anyone need one? I could buy two and sell you one at cost.
And I didn't find what I wanted at PartsExpress.com but I looked around on Mouser.com and found a cool doohickey that has the 3 component plugs all connected and colored coded (red, green, blue). They also have one that's the same but it has red/yellow/white for composite + stereo.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on June 20, 2006, 10:15:00 PM
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Well, that didn't work, so is there anybody out there with a spare toslink jack????
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: irfan on June 21, 2006, 07:03:00 AM
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digikey has all your connection needs... 5 dollar handling fee for less than 25 dollar order i think tho
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on June 21, 2006, 04:57:00 PM
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digikey has all your connection needs... 5 dollar handling fee for less than 25 dollar order i think tho
I'm guessing you're referring to the LM1881s, since i don't see any toslink jacks. Does it matter which one you get? They have a LM1881N, LM1881MX, and LM1881M
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: pimpmaul69 on June 21, 2006, 10:52:00 PM
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get the lm1881n
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on June 25, 2006, 03:51:00 PM
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I just busted apart a spare 3rd party av pack and it has a toslink digital audio output on it. I could hardwire the toslink jack directly up to the motherboard and that would work, right?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on July 02, 2006, 02:31:00 PM
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anybody?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on July 02, 2006, 02:59:00 PM
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also, I may be retarded, but I can't find the two 0.1µF capacitors or the 680kO resistor anywhere. Where can I buy these?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on July 03, 2006, 02:25:00 AM
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And I have one more question: If I do the VGA mod on teh scart cable and then add a svideo mod soldered directly onto the motherboard and have the s-video going to my tv and the vga to my computer monitor, of course, would it still be possible to add a switch to switch between the vga output and the s-video output, even though the vga wouldn't be hardwired to the motherboard? Or do I have to hardwire both?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BuyItModIt on July 04, 2006, 04:24:00 PM
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You can get all the parts you need from www.maplin.co.uk.
I have a v1.4 PAL XBOX, with Xecuter3, X3 vga bios, I also have the IND latest bios (in the config app I think it has a VGA option so if it does then I'll put that vga bios on another bank of the x3). My TV is PAL I think 'cos its a U.K TV, I read in this thread that you need to set the xbox to NTSC for VGA output...is that true & if so, will it display an image on my tv for changing back to PAL again (black & white would be OK as long as I can change it back again)?
My monitor is an Acer Model No: AL1716 s. I don't know if it supports Sync On Green or not but have ordered an LM1881N circuit anyway. If I wire the LM1881N into my homemade VGA Cable (when I make it), will it be OK if my monitor already supports Sync On Green?
I also read in this thread that you need to change to HD to turn on 480p mode in MSDash, (I don't have a HD Cable or a tv with any other inputs except the red white & yellow connectors), so If I wire all three switches to the XBOX A/V Connector on the motherboard, & select HD Mode (9&10:OFF, 11&12:ON, 13&14:ON) I should be able to set the xbox to 480p in MSDash with the instructions earlier in this thread (where you can press the right buttons without anything being displayed on the TV screen) right?
This is how I want to connect everything, it's using an old XBOX A/V Scart Gold Cable, & is the way that JaredC01's VGA Diagram is, instead of using L33's Diagram from the tutorials section (reason being that it has different wiring & I would prefer to have all the wires on the cable rather than having to get +5v & a ground from a USB port on my xbox (my xbox has usb ports). My VGA Diagram. Is this diagram correct?
Thanks in advance.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: boaby on July 05, 2006, 01:50:00 PM
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got the parts through to make a component cable - except the wire.
i've got spare cat5 lying around, would that be feasible to use or should i wait and get somethin more chunkier?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BuyItModIt on July 06, 2006, 12:18:00 AM
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Well I am surprised that I got it working, took a whole 24 hours (literally, I haven't been to sleep today 'cos I've been doing the cable & audio outputs & testing settings for ntsc etc). The only problem is that it's green. I have a v1.4PAL XBOX changed to NTSC with the x3 bios. VGA Patch Enabled. 480p set in MSDash with switches 2&3 set (HD). The MSDash doesn't show up though, it loads (I can hear it through the headphones I added to the xbox), but on the monitor it says no signal input as soon as it starts to load. I have tried pushing in both thumbsticks & the triggers all at the same time, but that doesn't make any difference.
I'm not really bothered about the MSDash, I just want to fix the green screen wash, not sure how though. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Could it be the way the lm1881n is wired (jaredc01's way instead of l33's way)? Could it be the capacitors that I used (capacitors that I used)?. Could it be that my monitor already supports sync on green & so the lm1881n is making it green?
This post has been edited by BuyItModIt: Jul 6 2006, 07:22 AM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: veeper on July 08, 2006, 10:19:00 PM
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[...]
I'm not really bothered about the MSDash, I just want to fix the green screen wash, not sure how though.
[..]
Are you shure you are using a VGA BIOS? Afaik the lm1881 doesn't affect the color. So desoldering it would not help. If you wanna have the MS dash in 480p make shure you have the most recent version. If you don't wanna go live for the update, a newer game like NFS:MW also does the trick.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: BuyItModIt on July 08, 2006, 11:44:00 PM
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Yep, X3 bios with vga patch enabled, & also ind-bios latest version with 480p enabled in the animation settings.
My MSDash has the Xbox Live option.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: devilmaycry666 on July 09, 2006, 05:20:00 AM
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Hey guys. I did the vga mod in the first post. But it doesn't seem to be working. When i plug CRT's (Tryed two) into it, the CRT's act like nothings there. But i still have audio, and normal video if i unplug my Mchip, and turn the third switch off. I think its one of the two things i did somewhat wrong.
1. I used 1.0µF caps (Didn't see it intel after i made the board)
2. I was trying to use the stock AV cable as the switch one.
The chip i'm using is the X3CE with the VGA patch on (Witch sucks since i'll have to reflash the chip if i can't get this to work). and my box is a 1.0, with a conexant chip.
Should i try one before the other? They are both going to be a pain to fix, but if i can get away with only doing one, that would be great.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: pimpmaul69 on July 09, 2006, 10:06:00 AM
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ok here is th problem..turn switch 2 and 3 on only.... this diagram is wrong when it says switch 1 and 3
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: mitpat on July 21, 2006, 05:49:00 AM
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I've seen the av pictures on the front page but does anyone have the link to the set of pictures which show all of the pictures put together as well as one for scart
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on July 24, 2006, 12:19:00 PM
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is the pinout good for v1.6 with xcaliber chips? or a focus on a 1.4? what are the switches for to turn the sections of plugs on and off? im a dumbass
i want to be able to wire in component video and s-video. also toslink audio and digital coaxial audio. i will only use either one at a time.
This post has been edited by Navillos: Jul 24 2006, 07:21 PM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on July 24, 2006, 06:16:00 PM
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i have a hd a/v pack that i pulled apart so i have the component plugs and toslink audio. now i just need to get s-video and digital coaxial audio plugs. i could try to pull one off an old ati video card, looks like it has like seven pins. or would the shack or frys have something like that. im ok at soldering, i installed a xerc2 no prob.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on July 28, 2006, 07:30:00 PM
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I'm not dead guys... Well, not yet anyway... I was working on a web based tutorial in the past, but the computer I was working on it on, crashed. I will most likely be working on a new site in the near future, stay tuned.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Foe-hammer on July 29, 2006, 12:21:00 AM
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Alas........if only 720p worked correctly with the vga bios.
I've been waiting for that day forever, and likely will keep on waiting indefinently......should have switched my major from zoology to computer science, then maybe i'd be of some help to figure it out.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: rootofallevil on September 05, 2006, 09:09:00 AM
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um this may sound noobey but um my cable aint like urs mines u can slide the plastic off and u see the gold
its not Offical but any way its the one with the svideo this is my view like urs is a card mine the plugs are soddered directly to the plug
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Tomgh on September 06, 2006, 04:46:00 AM
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I have an earphone jack, it has 3 connection points.
Where would I have to connect those? I guess its one for left, one right audio and one ground.
Is that so?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on September 07, 2006, 10:58:00 PM
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a DIP switch will work for the mode switches? or what is recommended that is small
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Basti[08/15] on September 08, 2006, 12:05:00 PM
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Hi, i'm quite new to this board, but first of all i have to say outstanding work Jared!
But not, i feel a bit stupid to ask following question...
The schematic on the first page, does it mean/ show soldering-points on the motherboard or on a audio-video plug?
I read the first 20 pages, but i didn't find that simple information (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Maybe i just overlooked it.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on September 08, 2006, 12:08:00 PM
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those are the points on the bottom of the motherboard.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Basti[08/15] on September 09, 2006, 07:08:00 AM
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thx Navillos!
Are the pin-numbers on the motherboard the same as on the plug?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: speedypancake on September 14, 2006, 06:22:00 AM
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I'd also just seen this guide and was about to ask the exact same question. It really should say on the first page with the diagram exactly what points we're looking at
Perhaps you're also wondering if we can't find all these points on the end of a standard xbox cable. Then we could fit all the connections & switches we wanted in a break-out box & avoid opening / messing with the mother board etc.....
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on September 14, 2006, 02:41:00 PM
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if you want a pinout of the plug google "textbook vga tutorial". its a badass tut
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: odhhbvcrsr on September 24, 2006, 11:14:00 AM
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Where is the diagram for the scart rgb cable ?
Use the schematic for vga with scart connector . . what pinout ?
Thank you . . . By
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sebastius on September 25, 2006, 02:03:00 PM
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I've added Component Video ports to my (PAL 1.4) Xbox. After messing with a wrong pinout, i found the wonderfull guide at the start of this topic. And behold, it worked! Using Enigma Video Switcher I enabled the multitude of HDTV resolutions, and all seems well.
Except for one small bit. Picture quality is a bit wavy. There is a disturbance coming through and it ain't pretty. The cable is fine, i checked that using my DVD player.
There are two things i can think of that cause my troubles:
1) Years ago I removed the metallic inner cover because it was in my way. Unfortunately I put it in the bin a long time ago.
2) The (looks like a flatcable only a bit thicker) cable is not good enough, or perhaps I should use more ground wires (i'm using only one now) between the lines.
Anyone got a thought?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: pimpmaul69 on September 25, 2006, 07:19:00 PM
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I've added Component Video ports to my (PAL 1.4) Xbox. After messing with a wrong pinout, i found the wonderfull guide at the start of this topic. And behold, it worked! Using Enigma Video Switcher I enabled the multitude of HDTV resolutions, and all seems well.
Except for one small bit. Picture quality is a bit wavy. There is a disturbance coming through and it ain't pretty. The cable is fine, i checked that using my DVD player.
There are two things i can think of that cause my troubles:
1) Years ago I removed the metallic inner cover because it was in my way. Unfortunately I put it in the bin a long time ago.
2) The (looks like a flatcable only a bit thicker) cable is not good enough, or perhaps I should use more ground wires (i'm using only one now) between the lines.
Anyone got a thought?
both are problems... i think number 2 is your biggest problem..happened when i did the same on a ps2 with one ground... use all the proper ground points listed on this tutorial to fix that
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sebastius on September 26, 2006, 03:47:00 PM
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both are problems... i think number 2 is your biggest problem..happened when i did the same on a ps2 with one ground... use all the proper ground points listed on this tutorial to fix that
Well, guess what, it worked! Picture seems much more stable now. Not perfect, but stable and clean from my seat and that's what matters!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on September 30, 2006, 06:48:00 PM
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if i were to desolder the a/v plug what size and type of wire would be best. i have all plugs from a hd a/v pack and i want to hardwire composite and component and vga in so i think it would be best to use the whole hole instead of a post. any suggestions?
This post has been edited by Navillos: Oct 1 2006, 01:52 AM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on October 09, 2006, 09:13:00 PM
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I think I'm finally going to do this mod, but I have a question:
Can you output VGA and S-Video at the same time? If not, what about VGA and Component? anything at all? I know VGA and Component use the same grounds, 2 and 3, but I thought maybe the fact that you have to use modded bios for VGA might disable your ability to output component without going to different bios.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: circusmonki on October 09, 2006, 10:31:00 PM
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no i dont think u can output 2 different modes at the same time. This is because all the switches are in different positions for each mode.
BTW great mod jared i just got my LM1881N ready to test it out
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on October 10, 2006, 04:31:00 PM
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no i dont think u can output 2 different modes at the same time. This is because all the switches are in different positions for each mode.
BTW great mod jared i just got my LM1881N ready to test it out
this isn't true because they're in the same spot for VGA and Component, 2 and 3, despite the fact that many guides say its actually 1 and 3....The only reason I think it MIGHT not be able to output both at once is because you have to use special bios for VGA, and I thought this might cancel out the ability for component. Does anybody know for sure? Pimpmaul69 perhaps??
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: circusmonki on October 11, 2006, 03:56:00 AM
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Ok soz for the wrong info.
So your acually saying for the VGA mode, that instead of switch 1 (which shorts out pins 9 and 10) you should instead have switch 2 (pins 11 and 12).
Just clarifying: So instead of the guide saying the switch settings for VGA are 1 + 3 it should be 2 + 3.
Can anybody please confirm that i have this right please.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on October 15, 2006, 07:36:00 PM
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Ok soz for the wrong info.
So your acually saying for the VGA mode, that instead of switch 1 (which shorts out pins 9 and 10) you should instead have switch 2 (pins 11 and 12).
Just clarifying: So instead of the guide saying the switch settings for VGA are 1 + 3 it should be 2 + 3.
Can anybody please confirm that i have this right please.
If you look about half way down on page 41 i think of htis tutorial, pimpmaul69 states that this is the case, and he seems to know what he's talking about better than anybody else around here.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on October 23, 2006, 05:10:00 PM
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so would a vga to component video and ms hd av pack work for vga? as well as the bios. duh
yes my moniter is sync on green
This post has been edited by Navillos: Oct 24 2006, 12:10 AM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on October 23, 2006, 09:48:00 PM
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so would a vga to component video and ms hd av pack work for vga? as well as the bios. duh
yes my moniter is sync on green
what do you mean? you have to build your own VGA cable and use special VGA bios, or just use standard bios and buy something like the X2VGA, which does convert from component to VGA
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Navillos on October 23, 2006, 10:09:00 PM
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well what i mean is theres a cable that goes from vga to component, i was asking would that work if i used a hd av pack with it and the vga bios. because the one you make has the same wiring as a hd av pack, it can be used for the vga
This post has been edited by Navillos: Oct 24 2006, 05:10 AM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: red eye on November 17, 2006, 08:36:00 AM
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thanks for this tut jaradc01 been wanting to play my xbox on my pc monitor.
dont know if this has been answerd but i got a few questions about the vga cable
1) does the lm1881n need programing or is it plug and play? **answered the chip is called Video Sync Separator**
2)what 0.1uf cap should i use? voltage etc etc
3)the bios i need, what do i do with it does it go in the xbox or flashed on the chip?
i presume its avalible form the same place as all the rest of the xbox goodies
i have a v1.6 with slayers installer.
thanks in advance to anyone who can help!!!!
This post has been edited by red eye: Nov 17 2006, 04:44 PM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: SpankMan on December 07, 2006, 11:50:00 AM
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Hope these questions haven't been raised before in this thread but scanned through it as best as a could.
I have a 1.2 where i added coax out following this: http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/digital-output.php
I now also bought a 1.6 as spare and want to add a coaxial out as well. What i find strange is that the pins described in this thread are different from http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/digital-output.php?
Few questions:
If i use pins described in this thread, what pin needs ground to allow coax out both when standard AV is used and when a purchased HDTV-cable is used? I found this a bit unclear in the diagram.
Does the coaxial - need shielding from metalshield?
*Edit*
I do see the switches so i would just want to clarify that i don't want a switch between different modes.
This post has been edited by SpankMan: Dec 7 2006, 07:54 PM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: palmmann on December 08, 2006, 04:44:00 PM
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i have a v1.6 with slayers installer.
vga bioses are not compatible with 1.6 xboxes, sorry.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: biketuna on February 08, 2007, 08:33:00 AM
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Do I need vga bios for component output?
Thanks
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: JaredC01 on February 11, 2007, 08:03:00 PM
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Do I need vga bios for component output?
Thanks
You do NOT need a vga bios for component video output.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Infamous Ob on February 23, 2007, 02:18:00 AM
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What is all that stuff being wired to? Is those handmade circuit boards or is that inside the Xbox? I need some info on this asap. Thanks.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on February 23, 2007, 04:13:00 PM
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What is all that stuff being wired to? Is those handmade circuit boards or is that inside the Xbox? I need some info on this asap. Thanks.
if you're talkinga bout the lm1881n (sync separator) its something you buy online. If you're referring to the pins on the diagrams at the beginning, thats the bottomside of the xbox motherboard underneath the AV plug. You can also achieve the same thing wiring into the AV cable, there's another diagram in the tutorials that shows which pins are which on that.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Infamous Ob on February 24, 2007, 12:30:00 PM
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If you're referring to the pins on the diagrams at the beginning, thats the bottomside of the xbox motherboard underneath the AV plug.
So, is that a seperate little board under the A/V? Or is that just a cut-out of the A/V section underneath the Mobo?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: timdog82001 on February 24, 2007, 03:22:00 PM
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So, is that a seperate little board under the A/V? Or is that just a cut-out of the A/V section underneath the Mobo?
its just a cut out. The only time you'll find a secondary board with the xbox is on the v1.0 which had the daughterboard for the controllerports, which is nowhere near this part
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Infamous Ob on February 25, 2007, 12:39:00 AM
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its just a cut out. The only time you'll find a secondary board with the xbox is on the v1.0 which had the daughterboard for the controllerports, which is nowhere near this part
Thanks for the info.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: bouby on February 26, 2007, 02:55:00 PM
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hi guys, i'm french and I apologize for my bad english (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
I tried to make the modifications to output VGA on my xbox 1.4 with Focus chip softmoded.
My cable is built with LM1881n.
I try to use the nkpatcher to output RGsB on YUV but when i connect my xbox to any monitors, they find a signal but no video. Sometimes, I could see one or two seconds of my dashboard until it disapears (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grr.gif)
I've never seen the blob, and I don't know what bios to use instead of the nkpatcher. I tried the yoshihiro for focus one, i tried the ind for connexant (but it did not work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) ) , I tried to patch a m8+_EF with the VGA patcher...
So I don't know what to do and I need help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
thanks for help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: bouby on February 27, 2007, 03:14:00 AM
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hey hey,
I found on this tutorial http://www.360mods.n...cle/sid=37.html , that a 340kohm 1% will give me a 30kHz Hsync.
Do you think it could solve my problem?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: grim_d on April 26, 2007, 10:23:00 AM
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I would like to add that the optical transmitters from phat ps2's work fine for adding optical out. My model was specifically a SCPH-30003 but i doubt it matters.
Don't know if it's already been mentioned but its a cheap solution if you have a broken ps2, rather than buying a new Toslink.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: brilliantdonkey on April 27, 2007, 09:04:00 AM
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hey hey,
I found on this tutorial http://www.360mods.n...cle/sid=37.html , that a 340kohm 1% will give me a 30kHz Hsync.
Do you think it could solve my problem?
It sounds like your problem amounts to tweaking the resistor values. It's impossible to say for sure, but a 340k ohm resistor may solve your problem. You can try any resistor value between 340k to 680k.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: bobbyblaze on April 27, 2007, 12:32:00 PM
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Hi Guys!
I have a CRT projector and need a cable to connect the xbox to it. It would be the same as the vga cable except it would terminate in 5bnc plugs (RGBHV). I would also require it to have a digital sound connection (either toslink or coaxial). Would anybody be interested in building one of these for me? Please PM me if you're up for it.
Thanks and good work on the mod ;o)
Cheers,
Rob
ps. I have a v1.0 xbox and an x3 chip if it helps.
This post has been edited by bobbyblaze: Apr 27 2007, 07:45 PM
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: fightback on December 21, 2007, 06:14:00 AM
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Hi guys,
I've read this interesting topic...
I still can't find what I should do:
I have a PAL xbox, I'd like to build my own component cable for HDTV out of my advanced AV pack (scart+optical audio).
On the diagram on the 1st page, I see modifications for the xbox motherboard.
How can we modify the advanced pack to obtain the same result?
Or maybe I just could'nt figure out the solution from the picture.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on December 27, 2007, 07:24:00 PM
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Hi FightBack, I wanted to do the same thing myself a while back and after doing so I decided to make a few diagrams to help others though I can't remember if I ever got round to posting them.
Unfortunately somewhere along the way I've managed to loose my Advanced AV Cable so I'm unable to show pictures of the actual wiring which is a shame. Nevertheless I did sketch down the order of the wires when I was doing my conversion and will try to explain the process as best I can.
It is even possible to keep the SCART connection and be able to switch between it and Component HD.
As you have the SCART cable you have all the connections you need in the breakout box except the mode select wires.
Here is the pin definitions for the XBOX AVIP:
(IMG:http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/536/xboxavippinouttr0.png)
As you can see from the above table, pins 16 to 20 and pin 22 are common to both RGB SCART and YPrPb Component.
There are two ways you can proceed, either you Keep the SCART connectivity or you loose it.
The easier option is to loose the SCART connection.
Without SCART
First open up the SCART plug and unsolder the wires to it. If you then strip back a few inches of the outer insulation to give you the individual coloured screened wires you can simply put RCA plugs on them for Y Pr Pb Left audio and Right audio. The remaining wires can then be trimmed back as they are not needed.
The screened wire functions within the SCART plug are as follows:
White wire = Left Audio
Red wire = Right Audio
Grey wire = Y Video
Blue wire = Pb Video
Yellow wire = Pr Video
With SCART
If you choose to keep the SCART connection you will need to decide if you want to fit RCA sockets to the breakout box or to have then mounted externally on wires. You will need 5 in total (Y, Pr, Pb, Left audio, Right audio)
To connect them up I chose to solder my wires to the reverse of the circuit board under the 10 pin plug for video.
Here is a table with the functions of the wires going into the breakout box:
(IMG:http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/4764/xboxadvancedavpinoutqu8.png)
Using the table above and the one at the beginning of this post you can see that the grey screened wire is the Y video signal, the yellow screened wire is the Pr video signal, the blue screened wire is the Pb signal, the white screened wire is the Left audio signal and the red screened wire is the Right audio signal. All the other signals can be ignored.
Video Mode Select
Finally you will need to change the video mode for your cable.
In case you didn't know, the xbox senses what type of AV cable is connected to it and changes the video encoder to suit. It does this by using 3 wires in the plug and depending on what combination of them is shorted to ground.
This can be seen in the table I created below:
(IMG:http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/677/xboxavipavoutputmodestg1.png)
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on December 27, 2007, 08:37:00 PM
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Sorry for the split post, I forgot to add this on the first one and then wasn't able to edit it due to a connection problem....
To change the Video Mode you will need to open the AVIP plug.
I have found removing the strain relief from the plug helps greatly during this step.
To do this easily it is best to use a sharp utility (Stanley) knife and cut the side pieces of the strain relief on the plug that are nearest to the plug, then cut each ring of the strain relief as to remove it without cutting into the cable.
Next you need to prise the black rubber plug surround from the top and bottom metal part of the plug where the small rectangular holes are (if looking towards the end of the plug) I find using small screwdrivers or a couple of table knives helps. At the same time you need to slide the black rubber part backward. This will then reveal the metal part of the plug which you will then need to get inside, usually requiring un-soldering the clasp and bending a bit.
Once you are inside and can see the wires you should be able to find the 3 small black wires that loop from the top contacts to the bottom ones (pins 9, 11 and 13 to pins 10, 12 and 14).
If you have chosen not to keep the SCART plug you can unsolder or cut the wire going between pin 13 and 14.
If you have chosen to keep the SCART connectivity you will need some form of switch so that you can make or break the connection between pin 13 and 14. It is possible to make a small hope or two in the black rubber plug surround to put a couple of small wires through so that the switch can be mounted outside the plug.
Sorry this post has been so long-winded but hopefully it has covered everything you were after.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sheepie on December 28, 2007, 02:34:00 PM
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for the hi def thin do you need to have a switch for 2 and 3 or could you just solder wire there instead?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: sheepie on January 05, 2008, 03:42:00 PM
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anyone? cant belive how dead/slow xbox1 forums are these days
can i use a wire to connect the points? or will i have to use the switches?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on January 29, 2008, 05:05:00 AM
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Sorry for not being about much recently, had loads of electronics coursework at uni.
Just been made aware that Imageshack somehow lost one of my images I had hosed there, and as I can't edit my original post with a newly uploaded image I've had to add this post.
Sheepie,
if you just want one video mode, HD in your case, then yes, by all means you can just solder a wire from ground to the mode pins you need (ground to mode 2, ground to mode 3)
Video Mode Select
(IMG:http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5784/xboxavipavoutputmodesaj5.png)
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: bauk on February 05, 2008, 01:38:00 PM
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Hi,
I've been busy with all the components and had everything nicely working at HD output on my beamer.. But I am having trouble putting back the full xbox together afterwards. So I decided to get rid of de AVIP and get me more space for all connections, nicely on the back of the back of my box.
But I can't get the solder to melt or even loosen up. What temperature should I use and is flux really going to be the anser?
Really want my VGA/Advanced AV working, it's beautiful!
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on February 19, 2008, 10:17:00 AM
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Sorry for the mixup.... I have just been looking over my table of Video Modes and realised that I got pin 13 and pin 9 mixed up.....
I am currently trying to find a way to update the images on imageshack without having to repost them with new links.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Antman1 on May 16, 2008, 11:34:00 AM
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I found this: http://www.newark.co...NDUCTOR-LM1881N and want to order from here. Can someone point out what else i need to order and show me were it is on this web site so I can order it all together
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Antman1 on May 18, 2008, 06:53:00 AM
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My LM1881N chip is on its way. does anyone know what part number to look for for the 680k resister and 0.1uF Capacitors that they would carry in most radio shacks?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: lAze_a55 on September 09, 2008, 11:33:00 PM
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Can someone repost the image fromt eh first page. The actual pinout and connection image. It is getting a image link error and I need the image for reference.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: ldotsfan on September 10, 2008, 08:37:00 AM
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Reposted
Mods: Please find a permanent place at xbox-scene for the image if possible.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: lAze_a55 on September 10, 2008, 04:47:00 PM
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Thank you so much! I had just stumbled accross that tut and bookmarked it, because it was the most visual and understandable one around. Then 3 days later I went to look it up and the pic was gone. Thanks again
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: smittykoi on September 23, 2008, 04:43:00 AM
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also if i did the high def a/v mod do i need the orange wire and the optical & coaxial for it to work ?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: RARusk on October 06, 2008, 11:00:00 PM
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It has been quite awhile since I last posted in this topic.
If you are using sync separators then I recommend the ISL59885 from Intersil. It is just like the EL1883 except it no longer uses an RSET resistor. Instead you connect a 56nf capacitor to a certain pin and it will auto-sync to any sync rate on the fly. Oddly enough, even though I have some samples, I have not built anything with them.
I am interested in playing with the sync signals from the motherboard. However, the pictures I have seen of sync signal acquisition come from an earlier mobo with a Conexant chip. Are there any pictures of mobo sync acquisition from a mobo with a Focus chip?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: grampasso on October 07, 2008, 01:51:00 AM
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Hi guys I'm sorry, I'm a newbie and I would like to know what's this scheme for ?
I mean, A/V Pack is a separate hardware, or the scheme refers to internal A/V board ?
It works for a 1.6 version ?
which kind of bios do I need in mine ?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Heimdall on October 07, 2008, 03:40:00 AM
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It's for building your own cable to output the various formats of video and audio the Xbox will support
You can do either internal or external - this just shows you how to wire it.
Yes, apart from the VGA output.
Any BIOS. For VGA you would need a VGA BIOS, but unfortunately there isn't one for the 1.6.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: ichigo3223 on October 11, 2008, 08:49:00 PM
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Hey guys, I'm planning on modding a Advanced A/V Pack so I can have Component connectors housed on a neat package without the need of drilling extra holes to the Xbox case. I know the A/V pack I'm using does not have the sufficient wiring to put a extra set of connectors. So I'm planning to hack the cable connector to add a extra set of connections for the Component lines.
I have a spare USB cable lying around and I though I could add like a extra cable to the connector and stick that neatly on the side of the original A/V pack cable and run it to the A/V box where I would do all the connections and stuff.
But I'm wondering, could I ground all Component signals with one ground?? The thing is the USB has 4 cables in it (Red,Green,White,Black...... and some type of shielding but thats ground as well) and I'm going to use this because I don't want to make a huge tangle of extra cables running along the side of the original one to the box.
Example:
USB Cable Color ------- Component Connector
Red --------------------- Red Component Connector
Green ------------------- Green Component Connector
White -------------------- Blue Component Connector
Black -------------------- Common Ground for all Connectors <-- ***Is this possible ??***
Wire Shielding ---------- I guess this one won't be used
Is this connection is do-able or do I have to have a ground specific ground for each one?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: jakejm79 on October 12, 2008, 10:41:00 AM
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It is possible but picture quality could suffer due to interference, for video signals to reduce the interference to the signal the signal wire is normally surrounded by the ground wire (i.e. coaxial), also having individual ground wires for each part of the video signal is ideal, but my cheap HD xbox cable used a common ground. So try it out and see, but if the picture suffers from interference then that is probably your source of it. Also I would consider using the wire shielding for ground vs. just the black wire, therefor protecting the signals from outside interference (but they would still be able to interfere with each other being surrounded by a common ground and not there own).
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: ichigo3223 on October 12, 2008, 08:30:00 PM
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It is possible but picture quality could suffer due to interference, for video signals to reduce the interference to the signal the signal wire is normally surrounded by the ground wire (i.e. coaxial), also having individual ground wires for each part of the video signal is ideal, but my cheap HD xbox cable used a common ground. So try it out and see, but if the picture suffers from interference then that is probably your source of it. Also I would consider using the wire shielding for ground vs. just the black wire, therefor protecting the signals from outside interference (but they would still be able to interfere with each other being surrounded by a common ground and not there own).
Hmm... So I think the best option would be to use the black one for ground to the Green channel, and the shielding as a ground for both red and blue channels since both are almost the same signal. Hmm I think it might work.
Ok so all I would need is a couple of Component/RCA jacks and a switch. The switch would be easy to install. Just a switch with 3 terminals, the middle one would be the common ground for mode select, then one side with the HD mode pin and the other with the Advanced mode pin. There is a set of pins that both modes use by default, so I just need to bridge them together and hook up the switch the way I want it.
I'm gonna do a diagram and see if my design works.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: eXo on December 06, 2008, 08:32:00 PM
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hey guys, I did the wiring to enable HD permanently by earthing sw2,sw3 and wiring all the other 5 plugs up.
I then enabled NTSC mode but my TV which I know can support NTSC displays the picture in black and white.
Almost like it's not compatible with NTSC mode. I check the stock dash to enable HD mode but it's not there yet when the xbox boots into XBMC the TV is detecting 480i mode but I can't get to select any of the HD modes in XBMC either.
Can anyone shed any light on this? do I need like an NTSC version of the xboxdash.xbe file ?
mines originally a PAL btw but converted to NTSC with enigmahs program.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: spn on December 22, 2008, 07:30:00 AM
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Hi, sorry for my bad English...
I'm Italian, and I don't know why I cannot switch the HD resolution on my xbox
I've done this modify:
Than I play enigmah video switcher, I select NTSC (press and I reset the console.
After this step, I start with the scart the original dashboard, but I don't find the options of the HD resolution...I've found only Letterbox, widescreen ecc...but ANY hd resolution...
CAN BE THE DASHBOARD (original) outdated????
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: ldotsfan on December 22, 2008, 07:39:00 AM
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Hi, sorry for my bad English...
I'm Italian, and I don't know why I cannot switch the HD resolution on my xbox
I've done this modify:
Than I play enigmah video switcher, I select NTSC (press and I reset the console.
After this step, I start with the scart the original dashboard, but I don't find the options of the HD resolution...I've found only Letterbox, widescreen ecc...but ANY hd resolution...
CAN BE THE DASHBOARD (original) outdated????
Is xbox modded? Chipped or softmod? Is NTSC mode change confirmed sticky?
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: ldotsfan on December 22, 2008, 05:36:00 PM
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The XBOX is chipped with a xchanger 2.5...
i don't know how confirm the ntsc mode...
I starth with XMBC, than I play enigmah (pre-charged on the hdd)
I press the button B, and I don't know other wise to confirm the change. I've to reset the xbox.
Check the NTSC/PAL mode with a dash like unleashX or XBMC. I personally use XBMC.
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: 2 Bunny on September 17, 2009, 05:01:00 PM
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All right, sorry to kind of "barge in" and "grab the topic here", but I've got some questions about doing a VGA mod for xBox.
Number 1: Do I need a VGA extension cable to do this? If so, how to I get all the wires into the plug on the end? Do I just stick them in there and hope that it works, or do I yank the end off and try to watch where all the wires go? Is it do able without a soldering iron?
Number 2: If it helps, I'm using an old school NEC MultiSync LCD 1550M (1995ish I think?) that apparently supports "Sync on Green", would I be able to get non widescreen 720p out of this considering that its maximum resolution is 1024X768?
Thanks so much! The xBox Scene "Skinnex" community forum is so helpful all the time.
- 2 Bunny
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: Heimdall on September 25, 2009, 02:06:00 AM
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The Xbox has to be switched to NTSC. The TV format is irrelevant, so long as it has a VGA (RGB) input.b
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Title: Quick Guide For High Def Output
Post by: 2 Bunny on September 25, 2009, 05:15:00 AM
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Right. No point in really having a "pal" xBox anyway.
- 2 Bunny
Post by: BLUEku on March 05, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
Post by: BLUEku on March 06, 2005, 07:48:00 PM
Post by: BLUEku on March 07, 2005, 02:53:00 AM
Post by: RARusk on March 08, 2005, 12:49:00 AM
Below is a picture of my old reliable EL4583 setup on an experiment board:
As you can see, it has gone through many revisions and it looks kind of messy. I use this chip now to do various RGB experiments. You may notice two large resistors and a switch to the right. I use them for progressive scan experiments. One resistor is used for 15Khz (681K ohm) and the other is used for 31Khz (340K ohm) and they are both hooked up to RSET and I switch between them as necessary.
Below is a picture taken from the EL4583 datasheet:
Below is how you hook it up:
Pin 1 - Connect to ground with a 22K ohm resistor.
Pin 2 - Connect to ground with a 83K ohm resistor.
Pin 3 - Connect to Composite Sync pin on monitor.
Pin 4 - This is the built-in Chroma Filter. Feed Composite Video to this pin if you need to use the filter.
Pin 5 - Connect to Vertical Sync pin on monitor.
Pin 6 - Connect to ground.
Pin 7 - Whatever you fed through Pin 4 comes out here. Feed to Pin 8 with a 0.1uf capacitor.
Pin 8 - You can either feed the video line directly or use the Chroma Filter and connect to Pin 7 with a 0.1uf capacitor.
Pin 9, 10, 11 - Not used.
Pin 12 - Use either a 681K ohm (1%) resistor for 15Khz (interlaced video) usage or a 340K ohm (1%) resistor for 31Khz (progressive scan) usage. Connect resistor to ground.
Pin 13 - Not used.
Pin 14 - Connect to +5VDC.
Pin 15 - Connect to Horizontal Sync pin on monitor.
Pin 16 - Connect to ground.
I'll put up pictures of my EL1883 setup later.
Post by: sandman1687 on March 08, 2005, 04:14:00 PM
edit: i just ordered the EL4583 device from digikey, and will be experimenting with it when recieved. thanks to RARusk for the pinout descriptions.
This post has been edited by sandman1687: Mar 9 2005, 12:15 AM
Post by: sandman1687 on March 08, 2005, 05:14:00 PM
in the video realm of things: i just finished educating myself on sync seperators, and realized that all the LM1881 does is take the composite sync input (in this case the Y) and split it into vertical sync on pin 3 and composite sync out (horizontal) on pin 1. what im wondering is what the VGA bios specifically triggers to allow VGA output. i have also reviewed several PS2 AV pinouts, and it seems that the ps2 uses composite sync and regular composite video in the same pin. could the same be done to the xbox to allow for full-time VGA output?
Post by: RARusk on March 09, 2005, 12:58:00 AM
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL1883.jpg)
As you can see, this is very different from the EL4583 setup. For starters, the chip is only available as a surface mount so I had to find a way to use it with regular Radio Shack protoboards. What I did was to cut a one inch length of 30 gauge wire and gently soldered it to the bottom of a pin. I did this for all eight pins. Then, once I finished soldering, I bent the wires down and fed them through a protoboard. Then, after straightening the chip and protruding wires on the other side, I taped the chip down then flipped the board so I could solder the thin wires in place. I then cut the section out and soldered regular wires so I could use it properly on another board I was using for my RGB box (for my game consoles). The board section is secured to the other board with foam tape. It's a little crude but effective. The black gunk you see around the chip is liquid tape which I used to help protect the thin wires.
Below is a picture taken from the EL1883 datasheet:
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL1883Two.jpg)
As you can see it is very similar to the LM1881. Pinouts are as follows:
Pin 1 - Composite Sync to monitor.
Pin 2 - Composite Video in. With regular Composite Video you need to have a Chroma Filter for proper usage. A Chroma Filter usually is a 620 ohm resistor then the video is connected to ground with a 510 pf capacitor. Then the video from that connection point is run through a 0.1 uf capacitor on it's way to the chip. If you use Luminance from S-Video you won't need the 620 ohm resistor and 510 pf capacitor.
Pin 3 - Vertical Sync to monitor.
Pin 4 - Connect to ground.
Pin 5 - Not used.
Pin 6 - Connect either a 681K ohm (1%) resistor (for 15Khz - interlaced) or a 340K ohm (1%) resistor (for 31Khz - progressive scan) to ground.
Pin 7 - Horizontal Sync to monitor.
Pin 8 - Connect to +5VDC.
As for something Sandman1687 brought up: on the PS2 you have to use a sync chip to use RGB from it. Sony, for whatever dumb reason, decided not to put in a dedicated sync line for using RGB from either the PS1 or PS2 consoles. You HAVE to extract the sync from either Composite Video or Luminance using a sync chip. Worse, MacroVision screws up regular sync chips when you want to watch movies in RGB. I don't know what I would've done without the EL1883 fixing that problem. I have two PS2's and one of them has been dissembled. I intend to try to get that one working again and will try to find the sync lines straight off of the motherboard so I won't have to put up with that crap. If I get everything to where I want then I will try to trick VGA (for everything) out of it by poking a ground wire in the right place. Risky but what the hell - see what pops up. Wish me luck.
I will try to bring in some data on the EL4511 later.
Post by: sandman1687 on March 09, 2005, 07:04:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on March 09, 2005, 10:06:00 PM
Post by: RARusk on March 10, 2005, 12:39:00 AM
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL4511.jpg)
You'll notice that it is a lot bigger than the other chips and is a lot more complex. It is designed to operate with HDTV and multiple sync environments (such as Component Video which can switch between interlaced and prgressive scan on the fly - the reason it can autosync without the need for an RSET resistor). It can also be operated with microcontrollers if you need to use it in that way. I had said earlier that it can be used in removing sync from video and I was half right. You see, one of the ways to remove sync is to multiplex two special signals, VBLANK and CLAMP, into a video signal. VBLANK nullifies the vertical sync and CLAMP nullifies the horizontal sync. Strangely enough only VBLANK is present on the 4511.
But the 4511 can be used for standard RGB analog usage (interlaced and progressive scan):
(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/968335/EL4511Two.jpg)
As you can see, some of the pins you attach to ground, some you attach to +5VDC, and you input video on pin 10 (composite sync out (pin 19) is not shown in the picture). There is no RSET resistor. You really would not need to use pins 9 and 11 unless you wanted to created composite sync from separate sync.
I should go and get one for myself if I can only find composite sync from my PS2 motherboard and use it for progressive scan games (like "Soul Caliber II"). I hope I have been able to give you guys good info on all of the chips I have used and know about up to this point despite not having used the 4511 myself.
Post by: BLUEku on March 18, 2005, 06:07:00 AM
Post by: karsx on March 18, 2005, 07:39:00 PM
QUOTE(BLUEku @ Mar 18 2005, 05:13 AM)
LoL i guess everyone looked at this, scratched their heads and walked off :P
:D LOL You know it. :D
Post by: RARusk on March 20, 2005, 12:27:00 AM
Post by: BLUEku on March 20, 2005, 04:41:00 AM
Post by: sandman1687 on March 20, 2005, 11:29:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on March 20, 2005, 12:12:00 PM
QUOTE(sandman1687 @ Mar 20 2005, 11:35 AM)
hey man, if that 4511 turns out to solve the vga proglem, you'd be a savior to many people (including myself). jared mentioned that if combined with a microcontroller we could maybe get vga. what kind of microcontroller would one need?
Still doing some research on it... as far as I know right now... you may not need the microcontroller... I'll post some info once I figure something out. It will probably be a while though... I haven't even ordered the 4511 chip yet.
Post by: RARusk on March 21, 2005, 12:19:00 AM
After submitting a request you will usually get a phone call from one of their engineers (I usually end up talking with Rudy who I've dealt with over the years). These guys will end up talking way over your head but if you explain to them that you are simply using it for Xbox VGA experiments you will usually get the samples (along with some useful information). This will also save you a few bucks in the process.
These guys have been very good to me since I started dealing with them a few years back when they were still known as Elantec. I highly recommend going through them when dealing with sync separators or any other kind of chips.
Post by: RARusk on March 21, 2005, 12:21:00 AM
Forgot to add the web address. Duh!
It's getting late here and I need to go to bed.....
Post by: sandman1687 on March 21, 2005, 07:02:00 AM
Post by: Morninglight on February 13, 2006, 09:46:00 AM
The xbox is set to NTSC (no more PAL-60 in the menu) & Widescreen
When I plug the normal A/V cable in the xbox reboots and shows video...
btw, my dash is Evox.
Post by: lasse82 on February 13, 2006, 11:09:00 AM
i use ground on moterboard.
Post by: speedypancake on February 13, 2006, 11:28:00 AM
QUOTE(Mazzimus @ Feb 13 2006, 12:13 PM)
The project "original xbox AV-cable 2 HDTV-componentcable" is finished and it worked but there is something wrong with the audio. I think that the coaxial that I used for audio is broken
I made the connections like in my previous picture. Sorry not to have any photos about project.
Those damn connections in the AV plug are very small and you must be very careful not to make short-circuits.
Stupid question, but did you enable the digital audio in the ms dash settings??
Post by: speedypancake on February 13, 2006, 02:10:00 PM
QUOTE(speedypancake @ Feb 13 2006, 08:35 PM)
Stupid question, but did you enable the digital audio in the ms dash settings??
OOPS.. thought you didn't have sound. So you hard-wired your lead for HD video but you can't see anything. What are you connecting your component leads to? Can you connect the "green" plug to a normal composite video in.. can you see anything?
Post by: Mazzimus on February 14, 2006, 01:33:00 AM
QUOTE(speedypancake @ Feb 13 2006, 11:17 PM)
OOPS.. thought you didn't have sound. So you hard-wired your lead for HD video but you can't see anything. What are you connecting your component leads to? Can you connect the "green" plug to a normal composite video in.. can you see anything?
The digital audio was set on allready before. Problem was the broken wire for audio. I changed the wire and now all works great.
All wires that are ground are connected "together" when they are wired to AV plug. I tested that with multimeter.
I think that the groundposition must be same or you get problems with picture. Maybe its little different in the xbox or in the wires. Im not so pro to say for sure.
I connect those component cables to projector. If I enable 480p in projector all OK but when I start to play with 720p game the screen goes crazy. I enable 720p in projector-->OK
Can also use auto mode. This could be problem if you cant get picture.
Sorry for bad english. I'm from FINLAND
Post by: lasse82 on February 14, 2006, 07:32:00 AM
QUOTE(lasse82 @ Feb 13 2006, 06:27 PM)
Works all ground for anything or need i connect the ground for all the outputs on the place that shows.
ex. if i set a cabel from composit -, to ground anywear in the xbox. does it works then??
SORRY MY BAD ENGLISH!! i hope you understand me.
I have a problem, i can´t get my S -video output working. enyone who have same problem??
i use ground on moterboard.
PLEASE ANSWER THIS!!
Post by: Morninglight on February 14, 2006, 01:11:00 PM
Looks crisp and clear @720p & 1080i
Post by: Morninglight on February 14, 2006, 01:53:00 PM
Before connecting the xbox to you TV check the + from every video channel to ground, it should read about 75 Ohms.
Post by: JaredC01 on February 19, 2006, 01:48:00 AM
QUOTE(zwinglio @ Feb 16 2006, 04:40 PM)
A quick help please...I see that if i use an advanced MS cable with optic input i don't have the analogic(stereo) or digital output.And,controlling soldering on the back i see that if i pull out the wire that goes from point 1(vcc) to lm1881n everything seems to work!i think that there's not available voltage for them.What should i do?
I'm going to forget the first part of you post and focus more on the part about removing the LM1881N wire to get everything working again...
What you'll need to do, is wire the LM1881N directly to a +5v source.
I've snagged a picture from Xecuter's site for the X3 install on a 1.6 xbox. Ignore the fact it's for a 1.6, the only thing you'll need to be worried about is the 5v spot.
Simply solder a wire from the "Alternate 5v" spot, to the power input on the LM1881N.
That should get you up and running again.
On a side note, I'm actually working on a webpage for both of my tutorials, so no one has to look through endless pages for information. I may even include a forums for troubleshooting, but that's undecided as of right now.
Post by: zwinglio on February 19, 2006, 02:29:00 AM
Post by: JaredC01 on February 19, 2006, 11:06:00 AM
QUOTE(zwinglio @ Feb 19 2006, 03:36 AM)
Thanls JaredC01 for your answer,i resolved the problem checking solders and seeing that there was a problem.But i will use this alternate power for installing some others things like leds...:)Now circuit works,vga+coxial audio and optic but i've another question:If i use 480p my monitor goes black every 6-7 seconds and change frequency from 31.5Khz (H) to 31.4 Khz.I use a 5% tolerance 680Kohm resistor and i'd like to know if can resolve this problem changing resistor with another one with 1%tolerance or simply change the lm1881 with elantec 4581..Thank you
Many people say they don't have any problems with the 680K resistor at 5% tolerance. It's possible your monitor does, but I can't say either way for sure. It certainly wouldn't hurt to get a 1% and try it out.
Post by: JaredC01 on February 19, 2006, 12:16:00 PM
QUOTE(zwinglio @ Feb 19 2006, 12:41 PM)
I will try...Should i also check capacitors?I use ceramic and polyestere and i did not resolved the problem...
Ceramic capacitors can actually distort analog signals, so that very well may be your problem. If the 1% resistor doesn't fix the problem, try switching over to a tantalum capacitor. It's similar to an electrolytic capacitor, except it doesnt' have the spikes of an electrolytic. It's made for analog signals.
Post by: zwinglio on February 22, 2006, 01:09:00 PM
Post by: yu_mum on February 23, 2006, 05:17:00 PM
Here's a picture and a link for anyone interested.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=492381
Post by: JaredC01 on February 25, 2006, 09:53:00 AM
QUOTE(zwinglio @ Feb 22 2006, 02:16 PM)
i tried resistors with 1% tolerance but i obtained nothing..same effect black-image-black-image and a frequency of H:31.5 V:59Hz .Are these 59Hz the problem?When i use 720p or 1080i i've 60Hz...
That's possible, but I couldn't tell you for certain either way. You might try checking a different monitor to see if the problem still occurrs. It's possible that your monitor doesn't like the sync signals coming from the LM1881N. I'm actually waiting on a few sample chips to come in so I can check how well each of them work (LM1881, EL1883, EL4583) with a VGA signal. I know the LM1881N works, but I want to compare the signal quality and compatability with the 1883 and the 4583.
QUOTE(yu_mum @ Feb 23 2006, 06:24 PM)
Just wanted to say thanks for the tutorial. I used it in a mod i have just done putting an xbox in a dvd player case. Coun't have wired up the back panel without your help.
Here's a picture and a link for anyone interested.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=492381
Here's a picture and a link for anyone interested.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=492381
Very nice work, glad the tutorial helped you.
On a side note, I've got the tutorials webpage about halfway finished. I'll probably finish it up within the next few days using the info I have right now. I'll have to update it once I check the 4583 and the 1883.
Post by: zwinglio on February 27, 2006, 04:39:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on March 06, 2006, 08:35:00 PM
Post by: HardcorePooka on March 07, 2006, 11:49:00 PM
I'm currently modding my xbox to put a PSOne LCD in, and to get this to work I have to bridge pins 9&10 for it to work without the cable plugged in... however, when I do plug the cable in, I get what looks like interference on the screen. Keep in mind, right now the LCD is not hooked up at all, I simply have everything wired up to do it. Now, I have figured out that this interference is caused by the bridging(I undid it and hooked it up to the TV and it was gone). Is there any way(short of a switch) to get rid of that interference... cuz I'll just switch it if I have to, but I'd prefer not to have to buy a DPST switch if I don't have to.
Post by: markccalhoun on March 15, 2006, 09:16:00 AM
First, thank you for the wonderful job that you have done in preparing this tutorial. I am very grateful to you for all the time and effort youve spent in researching and presenting this information. I am just amazed at the quality if the drawing that you made using MS Paint. That is outstanding! Good job!
Now, I have read the 37 pages of this tutorial and the Xbox-Scene tutorial by DataBitz on Adding A Digital Output To Your Xbox at http://www.xbox-scen...ital-output.php, and dozens of other pages. I have google and yahoo searched this topic and cant find any better info than these two tutorials. The more I read, the more confused I get.
I am confused as to how to get a SP-DIF signal to my surround sound system as the two tutorials differ in which pins to use. All I am interested in accomplishing is adding an RCA plug to my Xbox to provide a coaxial digital output. I want to use the original cord, that came with the Xbox, to go to my TV and run an RCA patch cord to my surround sound system. I have an NTSC v1.6 Xbox.
The tutorial on Adding A Digital Output To Your Xbox says to run a wire from pin #3 (your pin #6) to the center terminal of the RCA plug, run a wire from pin #5 (your pin #10) to the outer terminal of the plug, and, ground pin #18 (your pin #11).
Your tutorial says to run a wire from pin #6 (pin #3 in the other tut) to the center terminal, run a wire from pin #24 to the outer terminal, and, install switches to short/ground pins #s 9 & 10 and 11 & 12.
My questions are (using your numbering): (a) Does it really make a difference if I use pin #24 and not pin #10 if they are both grounds? (b) Why use pin 24? © Can I just bridge pins #11 & #12 and get mode 2 A/V and have SP-DIF output? (d) Do I have to bridge pins #9 & #10 along with pins #11 & #12?
In simplified terms I am asking if I will be able to use the factory A/V plug and get SP-DIF out: if I connect pin #6 to the center terminal, connect pin #24 to the outer terminal, and, bridge pins #11 & #12? Will this accomplish what I want to do?
Thank you for any help that you can give me. I want to do this right the first time and any help that you can give me will be greatly appreciated by myself, and, I am sure that it will help others too.
Have a Great Day,
Mark
Post by: markccalhoun on March 15, 2006, 02:30:00 PM
PRAISE AND GLORY TO DataBitz, xerxes3rd, AND TO EVERYONE ELSE WHO WORKED ON THIS!!!!
THANK YOU!!!
Okay, this will help others who just want SP-DIF Out and to use the original A/V cable.
All that you have to do is:
(1) Run a wire from pin #6 to the center, +, Data terminal of your RCA plug.
(2) Run a wire from pin #24 to the outer, -, Ground terminal of your RCA plug.
(3) Jumper pins #11 & #12 together.
That's it. Don't do anything else.
You do not need to jumper pins #9 & #10 together as the original, factory A/V cord will do that for you when you have it plugged in.
I now have Dolby Digital, DTS, and THX surround sound fed to my surround sound system and IT SOUNDS GREAT! I tried it on the 007 Everthing or Nothing game disk and it was good.
I tried it on Destroy All Humans off of my Hard Drive and it was GREAT. The sounds and voices were all around me. It was fantastic.
This is the best, cheapest mod I could ever have hoped for for my Xbox! It took 6 hours of research, cost me less than $5 and it improved my gaming experience 1000%. I recommend this for everyone!
(JaredC01, you and I have the same birthday.........Only I was born in 1960.)
Have a WONDERFUL day! Mark
Post by: DJSnels on March 16, 2006, 06:16:00 AM
i doubt about buying an x2vga but it`s a little expensive. so i hope this diagram has the same specifications as the x2vga (www.x2vga.com)
Post by: markccalhoun on March 17, 2006, 04:16:00 PM
B&D Enterprises
Main & Liberty Street
PO Box 460
Russell, PA 16345
Web Site: http://www.bdent.com/index.jsp
Sales: 1-800-458-6053
Engineering: 1-814-757-8300
Fax: 1-814-757-5400
They answer the phones until 7:00pm Eastern Time. I called and talked to them and they keep these in stock.
They have a $15 minimum order. They also charge a $1.50 order handling fee for orders under $100.
It took me less than 5 minutes to create a log-in and place my order online.
I just spent a few hours looking for these things and either the company that I found them at was outside the USA or (most of them) had a $100 minimum order requirement. The few other companies that I found them at in the USA wanted $12+ to $17+ for them, and, had a $50 (1 Company) to $100 (all other companies) minimum order.
Hope this helps you out.
Mark
Post by: JaredC01 on March 19, 2006, 06:27:00 PM
QUOTE(DJSnels @ Mar 19 2006, 08:16 AM)
does this diagram also handle 1080i on the vga-output?
i doubt about buying an x2vga but it`s a little expensive.
so i hope this diagram has the same specifications as the x2vga (www.x2vga.com)
Use the High Def settings to use 1080i on a VGA monitor. Most of the new vga bios's work with high def mode enabled. I will indeed post a link to the new tutorial when I get it finished. I'll have to wait until this coming Friday to order the parts needed for the 1883, and 4583 chips for extra VGA sync options (and possibly better options). Right now it's looking like next week will be probably be the week it will be released. I'm also thinking about adding my Dual Burst circuit to it, which is based off of Mattie's 556 circuit.
Post by: hjf on April 09, 2006, 06:31:00 PM
That is, this TV set has a YCbCr input (not YPbPr as in progressive). Can I use the advanced AV-pack with this set? I would need the output to be on the component plugs, but with SD Interlaced video: plain old 480i
Can this be done? If so, besides the cable, how?
Post by: Jesper64 on April 11, 2006, 09:39:00 AM
If your TV has Y/Cb/Cr then it will support component input. And no you cannot use the Advanced AV-Pack with that set only the High Definition AV Pack. The difference between S-Video and Component is much larger than that between S-video and composite, as S-video and composite is the same signal but split in two for S-video. I'd advise getting/making a component cable if you can.
Post by: hjf on April 11, 2006, 06:11:00 PM
I built the YCbCr cable for the xbox and it worked on my 29" CRT Philips set, but the quality was no that much better than S-Video (I gues because my tv is neither HD nor progressive).
I was going to move the newer 21" CRT set to my room for the XBOX but I found out it has only 1 AV input. It doesn't even have a front AV input (the 29" on the other hand is a top-of-the-line "MatchLine" --from 3 years ago and has 3 AV inputs AV1 composite only, AV2 composite/CVI, and AV3 composite/S-Video. plus the side input).
Anyways as all my Philips are latin american sets, they have PAL-N/M/B/G/I and NTSC inputs. Does PAL look better? I know it has a few extra lines. Can I switch my XBOX to PAL? It's just softmodded. What happens if I play a NTSC game on a PAL machine or vice versa?
Post by: irfan on April 12, 2006, 07:12:00 PM
i noticed a MUCH bigger difference between composite/s instead of s/component on my set at home.
Post by: hjf on April 13, 2006, 10:06:00 AM
QUOTE(Jesper64 @ Apr 13 2006, 07:09 AM)
Hjf - you can switch to PAL but a PAL Xbox does not support HD resolutions. If your using just normal video then you may see a slight quality increase, but don't forget PAL has a slower refresh rate than NTSC. And as far as games go, doesn't seem to alter gameplay in anyway. I've got a PAL xbox that I swapped to NTSC for HD, and the games still run fine without a problem.
I don't have an HD TV and won't be having one for a while. My country (Argentina) is still deciding which HD standard to go with. In 1998 they chose ATSC but now they're reviewing it.
My country is PAL-N so I'm using to 50Hz refresh rate -- there is no difference between 50 and 60 anyway. Not one I can notice I should say. But I do see a difference between PAL and NTSC. I can totally tell an NTSC signal from PAL. First off, colors are different. More saturated. Second, the scanlines are more noticeable. I think the extra PAL lines make a difference. Oh and third, the high-freq pitch from the TV is different
Now, how do I change it to PAL? I tried the "jumper" settings on the cable, but my box was still putting NTSC. And I can't use ENIGMAH's because of my softmod..
Post by: Mooner2 on April 13, 2006, 07:28:00 PM
Post by: Mooner2 on April 13, 2006, 11:01:00 PM
Post by: hjf on April 14, 2006, 08:55:00 PM
QUOTE(Jesper64 @ Apr 13 2006, 11:10 PM)
To change it to PAL you should be able to use Enigmah even on a softmod. As long as you've can boot unsigned code you should be able to use Enigmah. I know I have done it personally in the past.
Yes, enigmah boots but doesn't save. Maybe because of my softmod? It has the shadow partition stuff. Xbox v 1.6.
Does it switch instantly? I press A and B and all that changes is the letters NTSC to PAL and vice versa on the screen, but the video mode is not actually changed, but when I reboot, it's still in NTSC.
Post by: flag74 on April 25, 2006, 06:46:00 PM
i got a strange noise on component signal when i activate SPDIF output (mode2+3)
perhaps i need the 100nF on the ground signal of spdif?..i dont use optical...
Post by: veeper on May 06, 2006, 02:03:00 AM
Post by: tbirdturbo on May 07, 2006, 06:27:00 PM
Post by: Drago on May 10, 2006, 09:36:00 AM
I have already added a coaxial digital out to my box a while ago. I have soldered point 11 & 12 together so that I get digital sound even with the original AV cable connected. I recently bought an LCD TV, and ordered some cheap component cables to get 720p. Will my coaxial connector work in high def AV? And is it a problem that I soldered pin 11 and 12 (will the component cable still work?)
Post by: Drago on May 10, 2006, 09:51:00 AM
QUOTE(tbirdturbo @ May 6 2006, 08:46 PM)
i am going to be doing the hd mod for my xbox, what exactly is the coaxial audio? is coaxial like a cable wire end? i am unsure of what jack to get for that, also the vcc (black box) which one do i use, and were can i get that and the color coded panel mount jacks, anyone know?
Coaxial is just a type of cable. Coaxial audio is digital audio through a coaxial cable (in this case anyway).
You're probably best off using a female RCA plug. Then you can use a standard audio/video cable to connect it to your receiver (as long as it has a coaxial input, some receivers only have optical).
Not sure what you mean about the vcc. Color coded RCA mounts are sold several places, check your local radio shack or similar, maybe a TV repair shop or something.
Post by: tbirdturbo on May 10, 2006, 01:46:00 PM
Post by: Drago on May 12, 2006, 02:23:00 AM
Of course it would be nice to have both, but you just need one to get digitial sound out of the box.
Post by: kevbird on May 13, 2006, 11:11:00 AM
also, to make it work it shows 2 switches, both switches shown need to be on?
Post by: Kackel on May 16, 2006, 05:34:00 AM
I have a problem.
I have made my own VGA output on the xbox and I have connected pins 11, 12 and 13, 14 so I get High Def A/V mode turned on according to Jareds fine diagram. But I still don't have the 480, 720 and 1080 alternatives selectable in the MS Dashboard? Only Normal, Letterbox and Widescreen... I have a 1.0 PAL xbox and I have turned NTSC mode on with the help of Enigmah. And I haven't made the sync separator circuit, but thats just because my screen support sync-on-green.
Anyone who can help?
Post by: _-PhArOh-_ on May 20, 2006, 05:59:00 AM
Cameron
_-PhArOh-_
Post by: mitpat on May 29, 2006, 05:09:00 PM
now you're all gonna call me crazy but from the diagram on the first page is it possible to combine the Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA all together so i can have all the output connections whose mode are then controlled by the switches
as well as this is it also possible to add a scart output
Post by: pimpmaul69 on May 29, 2006, 05:26:00 PM
QUOTE(mitpat @ May 30 2006, 12:16 AM)
sorry if this question has already been answered but i'm on a 56k connection atm
now you're all gonna call me crazy but from the diagram on the first page is it possible to combine the Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA all together so i can have all the output connections whose mode are then controlled by the switches
as well as this is it also possible to add a scart output
click on the link in my sig to see the back of my xbox.. yes it is possible..and you only need two switches.. 1 spst switch and one dpst switch.. switch one goes on spst and 2 and 3 go on the dpst.. the reason is that vga and component are on switches 2 and 3 not 1 and 3 as some diagrams show.. and composite is on switch 1.. and rgb is all 3..so dont waste time having 3 switches...
Post by: mitpat on May 30, 2006, 06:09:00 AM
for the sake of the argument if i connected Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA connections up just like in the diagrams and used 3 switches would it still work
Post by: pimpmaul69 on May 30, 2006, 08:40:00 PM
QUOTE(mitpat @ May 30 2006, 01:16 PM)
thanks for clearing that up its nice to see that someone else has done it
for the sake of the argument if i connected Advanced A/V, High Def A/V and the VGA connections up just like in the diagrams and used 3 switches would it still work
i have all of those on the back of my xbox and only 2 switches
Post by: beefmaster on June 02, 2006, 02:38:00 AM
Post by: timdog82001 on June 10, 2006, 05:21:00 PM
Post by: pimpmaul69 on June 10, 2006, 06:21:00 PM
QUOTE(timdog82001 @ Jun 11 2006, 12:28 AM)
So it is possible to output toslink and digital coaxial simultaneously to two different places, correct?
i output 3 audios at the same time... works 4 me
Post by: kr580 on June 19, 2006, 06:21:00 PM
If I just want to output Component and Optical can I skip the switch part? And, where would I find the component and optical plugs for this?
Thanks - Kevin
Post by: kr580 on June 20, 2006, 03:53:00 AM
QUOTE(timdog82001 @ Jun 19 2006, 09:52 PM)
no you wouldn't need a switch if you only want the ability to output one type of video. As far as plugs and stuff....www.partsexpress.com has a lot of great stuff, however I don't know if they have the right models for the optical output jack, there are only like 3 different models that will work with the xbox. I myself am still trying to find a place that has one of the working toslink jacks, does anybody here know a good website for that????
I found a site that sells two of the three models. They have the TOTX173 as well as the TOTX176.
There's a $15 buy limit.
Anyone need one? I could buy two and sell you one at cost.And I didn't find what I wanted at PartsExpress.com but I looked around on Mouser.com and found a cool doohickey that has the 3 component plugs all connected and colored coded (red, green, blue). They also have one that's the same but it has red/yellow/white for composite + stereo.
Post by: timdog82001 on June 20, 2006, 10:15:00 PM
Post by: irfan on June 21, 2006, 07:03:00 AM
Post by: timdog82001 on June 21, 2006, 04:57:00 PM
QUOTE(irfan @ Jun 21 2006, 02:10 PM)
digikey has all your connection needs... 5 dollar handling fee for less than 25 dollar order i think tho
I'm guessing you're referring to the LM1881s, since i don't see any toslink jacks. Does it matter which one you get? They have a LM1881N, LM1881MX, and LM1881M
Post by: pimpmaul69 on June 21, 2006, 10:52:00 PM
Post by: timdog82001 on June 25, 2006, 03:51:00 PM
Post by: timdog82001 on July 02, 2006, 02:31:00 PM
Post by: timdog82001 on July 02, 2006, 02:59:00 PM
Post by: timdog82001 on July 03, 2006, 02:25:00 AM
Post by: BuyItModIt on July 04, 2006, 04:24:00 PM
I have a v1.4 PAL XBOX, with Xecuter3, X3 vga bios, I also have the IND latest bios (in the config app I think it has a VGA option so if it does then I'll put that vga bios on another bank of the x3). My TV is PAL I think 'cos its a U.K TV, I read in this thread that you need to set the xbox to NTSC for VGA output...is that true & if so, will it display an image on my tv for changing back to PAL again (black & white would be OK as long as I can change it back again)?
My monitor is an Acer Model No: AL1716 s. I don't know if it supports Sync On Green or not but have ordered an LM1881N circuit anyway. If I wire the LM1881N into my homemade VGA Cable (when I make it), will it be OK if my monitor already supports Sync On Green?
I also read in this thread that you need to change to HD to turn on 480p mode in MSDash, (I don't have a HD Cable or a tv with any other inputs except the red white & yellow connectors), so If I wire all three switches to the XBOX A/V Connector on the motherboard, & select HD Mode (9&10:OFF, 11&12:ON, 13&14:ON) I should be able to set the xbox to 480p in MSDash with the instructions earlier in this thread (where you can press the right buttons without anything being displayed on the TV screen) right?
This is how I want to connect everything, it's using an old XBOX A/V Scart Gold Cable, & is the way that JaredC01's VGA Diagram is, instead of using L33's Diagram from the tutorials section (reason being that it has different wiring & I would prefer to have all the wires on the cable rather than having to get +5v & a ground from a USB port on my xbox (my xbox has usb ports). My VGA Diagram. Is this diagram correct?
Thanks in advance.
Post by: boaby on July 05, 2006, 01:50:00 PM
i've got spare cat5 lying around, would that be feasible to use or should i wait and get somethin more chunkier?
Post by: BuyItModIt on July 06, 2006, 12:18:00 AM
I'm not really bothered about the MSDash, I just want to fix the green screen wash, not sure how though. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Could it be the way the lm1881n is wired (jaredc01's way instead of l33's way)? Could it be the capacitors that I used (capacitors that I used)?. Could it be that my monitor already supports sync on green & so the lm1881n is making it green?
This post has been edited by BuyItModIt: Jul 6 2006, 07:22 AM
Post by: veeper on July 08, 2006, 10:19:00 PM
QUOTE(BuyItModIt @ Jul 6 2006, 08:25 AM)
[...]
I'm not really bothered about the MSDash, I just want to fix the green screen wash, not sure how though.
[..]
Are you shure you are using a VGA BIOS? Afaik the lm1881 doesn't affect the color. So desoldering it would not help. If you wanna have the MS dash in 480p make shure you have the most recent version. If you don't wanna go live for the update, a newer game like NFS:MW also does the trick.
Post by: BuyItModIt on July 08, 2006, 11:44:00 PM
My MSDash has the Xbox Live option.
Post by: devilmaycry666 on July 09, 2006, 05:20:00 AM
1. I used 1.0µF caps (Didn't see it intel after i made the board)
2. I was trying to use the stock AV cable as the switch one.
The chip i'm using is the X3CE with the VGA patch on (Witch sucks since i'll have to reflash the chip if i can't get this to work). and my box is a 1.0, with a conexant chip.
Should i try one before the other? They are both going to be a pain to fix, but if i can get away with only doing one, that would be great.
Post by: pimpmaul69 on July 09, 2006, 10:06:00 AM
Post by: mitpat on July 21, 2006, 05:49:00 AM
Post by: Navillos on July 24, 2006, 12:19:00 PM
i want to be able to wire in component video and s-video. also toslink audio and digital coaxial audio. i will only use either one at a time.
This post has been edited by Navillos: Jul 24 2006, 07:21 PM
Post by: Navillos on July 24, 2006, 06:16:00 PM
Post by: JaredC01 on July 28, 2006, 07:30:00 PM
Post by: Foe-hammer on July 29, 2006, 12:21:00 AM
I've been waiting for that day forever, and likely will keep on waiting indefinently......should have switched my major from zoology to computer science, then maybe i'd be of some help to figure it out.
Post by: rootofallevil on September 05, 2006, 09:09:00 AM
its not Offical but any way its the one with the svideo this is my view like urs is a card mine the plugs are soddered directly to the plug
Post by: Tomgh on September 06, 2006, 04:46:00 AM
Where would I have to connect those? I guess its one for left, one right audio and one ground.
Is that so?
Post by: Navillos on September 07, 2006, 10:58:00 PM
Post by: Basti[08/15] on September 08, 2006, 12:05:00 PM
But not, i feel a bit stupid to ask following question...
The schematic on the first page, does it mean/ show soldering-points on the motherboard or on a audio-video plug?
I read the first 20 pages, but i didn't find that simple information (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Maybe i just overlooked it.
Post by: Navillos on September 08, 2006, 12:08:00 PM
Post by: Basti[08/15] on September 09, 2006, 07:08:00 AM
Are the pin-numbers on the motherboard the same as on the plug?
Post by: speedypancake on September 14, 2006, 06:22:00 AM
QUOTE
' date='Sep 8 2006, 07:12 PM' post='3644157']
Hi, i'm quite new to this board, but first of all i have to say outstanding work Jared!
But not, i feel a bit stupid to ask following question...
The schematic on the first page, does it mean/ show soldering-points on the motherboard or on a audio-video plug?
I read the first 20 pages, but i didn't find that simple information Maybe i just overlooked it.
Hi, i'm quite new to this board, but first of all i have to say outstanding work Jared!
But not, i feel a bit stupid to ask following question...
The schematic on the first page, does it mean/ show soldering-points on the motherboard or on a audio-video plug?
I read the first 20 pages, but i didn't find that simple information
Maybe i just overlooked it.I'd also just seen this guide and was about to ask the exact same question.
It really should say on the first page with the diagram exactly what points we're looking at Perhaps you're also wondering if we can't find all these points on the end of a standard xbox cable. Then we could fit all the connections & switches we wanted in a break-out box & avoid opening / messing with the mother board etc.....
Post by: Navillos on September 14, 2006, 02:41:00 PM
Post by: odhhbvcrsr on September 24, 2006, 11:14:00 AM
Use the schematic for vga with scart connector . . what pinout ?
Thank you . . . By
Post by: sebastius on September 25, 2006, 02:03:00 PM
Except for one small bit. Picture quality is a bit wavy. There is a disturbance coming through and it ain't pretty. The cable is fine, i checked that using my DVD player.
There are two things i can think of that cause my troubles:
1) Years ago I removed the metallic inner cover because it was in my way. Unfortunately I put it in the bin a long time ago.
2) The (looks like a flatcable only a bit thicker) cable is not good enough, or perhaps I should use more ground wires (i'm using only one now) between the lines.
Anyone got a thought?
Post by: pimpmaul69 on September 25, 2006, 07:19:00 PM
QUOTE(sebastius @ Sep 25 2006, 09:10 PM)
I've added Component Video ports to my (PAL 1.4) Xbox. After messing with a wrong pinout, i found the wonderfull guide at the start of this topic. And behold, it worked! Using Enigma Video Switcher I enabled the multitude of HDTV resolutions, and all seems well.
Except for one small bit. Picture quality is a bit wavy. There is a disturbance coming through and it ain't pretty. The cable is fine, i checked that using my DVD player.
There are two things i can think of that cause my troubles:
1) Years ago I removed the metallic inner cover because it was in my way. Unfortunately I put it in the bin a long time ago.
2) The (looks like a flatcable only a bit thicker) cable is not good enough, or perhaps I should use more ground wires (i'm using only one now) between the lines.
Anyone got a thought?
both are problems... i think number 2 is your biggest problem..happened when i did the same on a ps2 with one ground... use all the proper ground points listed on this tutorial to fix that
Post by: sebastius on September 26, 2006, 03:47:00 PM
QUOTE(pimpmaul69 @ Sep 26 2006, 03:26 AM)
both are problems... i think number 2 is your biggest problem..happened when i did the same on a ps2 with one ground... use all the proper ground points listed on this tutorial to fix that
Well, guess what, it worked! Picture seems much more stable now. Not perfect, but stable and clean from my seat and that's what matters!
Post by: Navillos on September 30, 2006, 06:48:00 PM
This post has been edited by Navillos: Oct 1 2006, 01:52 AM
Post by: timdog82001 on October 09, 2006, 09:13:00 PM
Can you output VGA and S-Video at the same time? If not, what about VGA and Component? anything at all? I know VGA and Component use the same grounds, 2 and 3, but I thought maybe the fact that you have to use modded bios for VGA might disable your ability to output component without going to different bios.
Post by: circusmonki on October 09, 2006, 10:31:00 PM
BTW great mod jared i just got my LM1881N ready to test it out
Post by: timdog82001 on October 10, 2006, 04:31:00 PM
QUOTE(circusmonki @ Oct 10 2006, 05:38 AM)
no i dont think u can output 2 different modes at the same time. This is because all the switches are in different positions for each mode.
BTW great mod jared i just got my LM1881N ready to test it out
this isn't true because they're in the same spot for VGA and Component, 2 and 3, despite the fact that many guides say its actually 1 and 3....The only reason I think it MIGHT not be able to output both at once is because you have to use special bios for VGA, and I thought this might cancel out the ability for component. Does anybody know for sure? Pimpmaul69 perhaps??
Post by: circusmonki on October 11, 2006, 03:56:00 AM
So your acually saying for the VGA mode, that instead of switch 1 (which shorts out pins 9 and 10) you should instead have switch 2 (pins 11 and 12).
Just clarifying: So instead of the guide saying the switch settings for VGA are 1 + 3 it should be 2 + 3.
Can anybody please confirm that i have this right please.
Post by: timdog82001 on October 15, 2006, 07:36:00 PM
QUOTE(circusmonki @ Oct 11 2006, 11:03 AM)
Ok soz for the wrong info.
So your acually saying for the VGA mode, that instead of switch 1 (which shorts out pins 9 and 10) you should instead have switch 2 (pins 11 and 12).
Just clarifying: So instead of the guide saying the switch settings for VGA are 1 + 3 it should be 2 + 3.
Can anybody please confirm that i have this right please.
If you look about half way down on page 41 i think of htis tutorial, pimpmaul69 states that this is the case, and he seems to know what he's talking about better than anybody else around here.
Post by: Navillos on October 23, 2006, 05:10:00 PM
yes my moniter is sync on green
This post has been edited by Navillos: Oct 24 2006, 12:10 AM
Post by: timdog82001 on October 23, 2006, 09:48:00 PM
QUOTE(Navillos @ Oct 24 2006, 12:17 AM)
so would a vga to component video and ms hd av pack work for vga? as well as the bios. duh
yes my moniter is sync on green
what do you mean? you have to build your own VGA cable and use special VGA bios, or just use standard bios and buy something like the X2VGA, which does convert from component to VGA
Post by: Navillos on October 23, 2006, 10:09:00 PM
This post has been edited by Navillos: Oct 24 2006, 05:10 AM
Post by: red eye on November 17, 2006, 08:36:00 AM
dont know if this has been answerd but i got a few questions about the vga cable
1) does the lm1881n need programing or is it plug and play? **answered the chip is called Video Sync Separator**
2)what 0.1uf cap should i use? voltage etc etc
3)the bios i need, what do i do with it does it go in the xbox or flashed on the chip?
i presume its avalible form the same place as all the rest of the xbox goodies
i have a v1.6 with slayers installer.
thanks in advance to anyone who can help!!!!
This post has been edited by red eye: Nov 17 2006, 04:44 PM
Post by: SpankMan on December 07, 2006, 11:50:00 AM
I have a 1.2 where i added coax out following this: http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/digital-output.php
I now also bought a 1.6 as spare and want to add a coaxial out as well. What i find strange is that the pins described in this thread are different from http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/digital-output.php?
Few questions:
If i use pins described in this thread, what pin needs ground to allow coax out both when standard AV is used and when a purchased HDTV-cable is used? I found this a bit unclear in the diagram.
Does the coaxial - need shielding from metalshield?
*Edit*
I do see the switches so i would just want to clarify that i don't want a switch between different modes.
This post has been edited by SpankMan: Dec 7 2006, 07:54 PM
Post by: palmmann on December 08, 2006, 04:44:00 PM
QUOTE(red eye @ Nov 17 2006, 09:43 AM)
i have a v1.6 with slayers installer.
vga bioses are not compatible with 1.6 xboxes, sorry.
Post by: biketuna on February 08, 2007, 08:33:00 AM
Thanks
Post by: JaredC01 on February 11, 2007, 08:03:00 PM
QUOTE(biketuna @ Feb 8 2007, 09:40 AM)
Do I need vga bios for component output?
Thanks
You do NOT need a vga bios for component video output.
Post by: Infamous Ob on February 23, 2007, 02:18:00 AM
Post by: timdog82001 on February 23, 2007, 04:13:00 PM
QUOTE(Infamous Ob @ Feb 23 2007, 01:25 AM)
What is all that stuff being wired to? Is those handmade circuit boards or is that inside the Xbox? I need some info on this asap. Thanks.
if you're talkinga bout the lm1881n (sync separator) its something you buy online. If you're referring to the pins on the diagrams at the beginning, thats the bottomside of the xbox motherboard underneath the AV plug. You can also achieve the same thing wiring into the AV cable, there's another diagram in the tutorials that shows which pins are which on that.
Post by: Infamous Ob on February 24, 2007, 12:30:00 PM
QUOTE(timdog82001 @ Feb 23 2007, 06:20 PM)
If you're referring to the pins on the diagrams at the beginning, thats the bottomside of the xbox motherboard underneath the AV plug.
So, is that a seperate little board under the A/V? Or is that just a cut-out of the A/V section underneath the Mobo?
Post by: timdog82001 on February 24, 2007, 03:22:00 PM
QUOTE(Infamous Ob @ Feb 24 2007, 11:37 AM)
So, is that a seperate little board under the A/V? Or is that just a cut-out of the A/V section underneath the Mobo?
its just a cut out. The only time you'll find a secondary board with the xbox is on the v1.0 which had the daughterboard for the controllerports, which is nowhere near this part
Post by: Infamous Ob on February 25, 2007, 12:39:00 AM
QUOTE(timdog82001 @ Feb 24 2007, 05:29 PM)
its just a cut out. The only time you'll find a secondary board with the xbox is on the v1.0 which had the daughterboard for the controllerports, which is nowhere near this part
Thanks for the info.
Post by: bouby on February 26, 2007, 02:55:00 PM
I tried to make the modifications to output VGA on my xbox 1.4 with Focus chip softmoded.
My cable is built with LM1881n.
I try to use the nkpatcher to output RGsB on YUV but when i connect my xbox to any monitors, they find a signal but no video. Sometimes, I could see one or two seconds of my dashboard until it disapears (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grr.gif)
I've never seen the blob, and I don't know what bios to use instead of the nkpatcher. I tried the yoshihiro for focus one, i tried the ind for connexant (but it did not work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) ) , I tried to patch a m8+_EF with the VGA patcher...
So I don't know what to do and I need help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
thanks for help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)
Post by: bouby on February 27, 2007, 03:14:00 AM
I found on this tutorial http://www.360mods.n...cle/sid=37.html , that a 340kohm 1% will give me a 30kHz Hsync.
Do you think it could solve my problem?
Post by: grim_d on April 26, 2007, 10:23:00 AM
Don't know if it's already been mentioned but its a cheap solution if you have a broken ps2, rather than buying a new Toslink.
Post by: brilliantdonkey on April 27, 2007, 09:04:00 AM
QUOTE(bouby @ Feb 27 2007, 06:21 AM)
hey hey,
I found on this tutorial http://www.360mods.n...cle/sid=37.html , that a 340kohm 1% will give me a 30kHz Hsync.
Do you think it could solve my problem?
It sounds like your problem amounts to tweaking the resistor values. It's impossible to say for sure, but a 340k ohm resistor may solve your problem. You can try any resistor value between 340k to 680k.
Post by: bobbyblaze on April 27, 2007, 12:32:00 PM
I have a CRT projector and need a cable to connect the xbox to it. It would be the same as the vga cable except it would terminate in 5bnc plugs (RGBHV). I would also require it to have a digital sound connection (either toslink or coaxial). Would anybody be interested in building one of these for me? Please PM me if you're up for it.
Thanks and good work on the mod ;o)
Cheers,
Rob
ps. I have a v1.0 xbox and an x3 chip if it helps.
This post has been edited by bobbyblaze: Apr 27 2007, 07:45 PM
Post by: fightback on December 21, 2007, 06:14:00 AM
I've read this interesting topic...
I still can't find what I should do:
I have a PAL xbox, I'd like to build my own component cable for HDTV out of my advanced AV pack (scart+optical audio).
On the diagram on the 1st page, I see modifications for the xbox motherboard.
How can we modify the advanced pack to obtain the same result?
Or maybe I just could'nt figure out the solution from the picture.
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on December 27, 2007, 07:24:00 PM
Unfortunately somewhere along the way I've managed to loose my Advanced AV Cable so I'm unable to show pictures of the actual wiring which is a shame. Nevertheless I did sketch down the order of the wires when I was doing my conversion and will try to explain the process as best I can.
It is even possible to keep the SCART connection and be able to switch between it and Component HD.
As you have the SCART cable you have all the connections you need in the breakout box except the mode select wires.
Here is the pin definitions for the XBOX AVIP:
(IMG:http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/536/xboxavippinouttr0.png)
As you can see from the above table, pins 16 to 20 and pin 22 are common to both RGB SCART and YPrPb Component.
There are two ways you can proceed, either you Keep the SCART connectivity or you loose it.
The easier option is to loose the SCART connection.
Without SCART
First open up the SCART plug and unsolder the wires to it. If you then strip back a few inches of the outer insulation to give you the individual coloured screened wires you can simply put RCA plugs on them for Y Pr Pb Left audio and Right audio. The remaining wires can then be trimmed back as they are not needed.
The screened wire functions within the SCART plug are as follows:
White wire = Left Audio
Red wire = Right Audio
Grey wire = Y Video
Blue wire = Pb Video
Yellow wire = Pr Video
With SCART
If you choose to keep the SCART connection you will need to decide if you want to fit RCA sockets to the breakout box or to have then mounted externally on wires. You will need 5 in total (Y, Pr, Pb, Left audio, Right audio)
To connect them up I chose to solder my wires to the reverse of the circuit board under the 10 pin plug for video.
Here is a table with the functions of the wires going into the breakout box:
(IMG:http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/4764/xboxadvancedavpinoutqu8.png)
Using the table above and the one at the beginning of this post you can see that the grey screened wire is the Y video signal, the yellow screened wire is the Pr video signal, the blue screened wire is the Pb signal, the white screened wire is the Left audio signal and the red screened wire is the Right audio signal. All the other signals can be ignored.
Video Mode Select
Finally you will need to change the video mode for your cable.
In case you didn't know, the xbox senses what type of AV cable is connected to it and changes the video encoder to suit. It does this by using 3 wires in the plug and depending on what combination of them is shorted to ground.
This can be seen in the table I created below:
(IMG:http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/677/xboxavipavoutputmodestg1.png)
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on December 27, 2007, 08:37:00 PM
To change the Video Mode you will need to open the AVIP plug.
I have found removing the strain relief from the plug helps greatly during this step.
To do this easily it is best to use a sharp utility (Stanley) knife and cut the side pieces of the strain relief on the plug that are nearest to the plug, then cut each ring of the strain relief as to remove it without cutting into the cable.
Next you need to prise the black rubber plug surround from the top and bottom metal part of the plug where the small rectangular holes are (if looking towards the end of the plug) I find using small screwdrivers or a couple of table knives helps. At the same time you need to slide the black rubber part backward. This will then reveal the metal part of the plug which you will then need to get inside, usually requiring un-soldering the clasp and bending a bit.
Once you are inside and can see the wires you should be able to find the 3 small black wires that loop from the top contacts to the bottom ones (pins 9, 11 and 13 to pins 10, 12 and 14).
If you have chosen not to keep the SCART plug you can unsolder or cut the wire going between pin 13 and 14.
If you have chosen to keep the SCART connectivity you will need some form of switch so that you can make or break the connection between pin 13 and 14. It is possible to make a small hope or two in the black rubber plug surround to put a couple of small wires through so that the switch can be mounted outside the plug.
Sorry this post has been so long-winded but hopefully it has covered everything you were after.
Post by: sheepie on December 28, 2007, 02:34:00 PM
Post by: sheepie on January 05, 2008, 03:42:00 PM
can i use a wire to connect the points? or will i have to use the switches?
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on January 29, 2008, 05:05:00 AM
Just been made aware that Imageshack somehow lost one of my images I had hosed there, and as I can't edit my original post with a newly uploaded image I've had to add this post.
Sheepie,
if you just want one video mode, HD in your case, then yes, by all means you can just solder a wire from ground to the mode pins you need (ground to mode 2, ground to mode 3)
Video Mode Select
(IMG:http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5784/xboxavipavoutputmodesaj5.png)
Post by: bauk on February 05, 2008, 01:38:00 PM
I've been busy with all the components and had everything nicely working at HD output on my beamer.. But I am having trouble putting back the full xbox together afterwards. So I decided to get rid of de AVIP and get me more space for all connections, nicely on the back of the back of my box.
But I can't get the solder to melt or even loosen up. What temperature should I use and is flux really going to be the anser?
Really want my VGA/Advanced AV working, it's beautiful!
Post by: smoke_screen_uk on February 19, 2008, 10:17:00 AM
I am currently trying to find a way to update the images on imageshack without having to repost them with new links.
Post by: Antman1 on May 16, 2008, 11:34:00 AM
Post by: Antman1 on May 18, 2008, 06:53:00 AM
Post by: lAze_a55 on September 09, 2008, 11:33:00 PM
Post by: ldotsfan on September 10, 2008, 08:37:00 AM
Mods: Please find a permanent place at xbox-scene for the image if possible.
Post by: lAze_a55 on September 10, 2008, 04:47:00 PM
Post by: smittykoi on September 23, 2008, 04:43:00 AM
Post by: RARusk on October 06, 2008, 11:00:00 PM
If you are using sync separators then I recommend the ISL59885 from Intersil. It is just like the EL1883 except it no longer uses an RSET resistor. Instead you connect a 56nf capacitor to a certain pin and it will auto-sync to any sync rate on the fly. Oddly enough, even though I have some samples, I have not built anything with them.
I am interested in playing with the sync signals from the motherboard. However, the pictures I have seen of sync signal acquisition come from an earlier mobo with a Conexant chip. Are there any pictures of mobo sync acquisition from a mobo with a Focus chip?
Post by: grampasso on October 07, 2008, 01:51:00 AM
I mean, A/V Pack is a separate hardware, or the scheme refers to internal A/V board ?
It works for a 1.6 version ?
which kind of bios do I need in mine ?
Post by: Heimdall on October 07, 2008, 03:40:00 AM
QUOTE
Hi guys I'm sorry, I'm a newbie and I would like to know what's this scheme for ?
It's for building your own cable to output the various formats of video and audio the Xbox will support
QUOTE
I mean, A/V Pack is a separate hardware, or the scheme refers to internal A/V board ?
You can do either internal or external - this just shows you how to wire it.
QUOTE
It works for a 1.6 version ?
Yes, apart from the VGA output.
QUOTE
which kind of bios do I need in mine ?
Any BIOS. For VGA you would need a VGA BIOS, but unfortunately there isn't one for the 1.6.
Post by: ichigo3223 on October 11, 2008, 08:49:00 PM
I have a spare USB cable lying around and I though I could add like a extra cable to the connector and stick that neatly on the side of the original A/V pack cable and run it to the A/V box where I would do all the connections and stuff.
But I'm wondering, could I ground all Component signals with one ground?? The thing is the USB has 4 cables in it (Red,Green,White,Black...... and some type of shielding but thats ground as well) and I'm going to use this because I don't want to make a huge tangle of extra cables running along the side of the original one to the box.
Example:
USB Cable Color ------- Component Connector
Red --------------------- Red Component Connector
Green ------------------- Green Component Connector
White -------------------- Blue Component Connector
Black -------------------- Common Ground for all Connectors <-- ***Is this possible ??***
Wire Shielding ---------- I guess this one won't be used
Is this connection is do-able or do I have to have a ground specific ground for each one?
Post by: jakejm79 on October 12, 2008, 10:41:00 AM
Post by: ichigo3223 on October 12, 2008, 08:30:00 PM
QUOTE(jakejm79 @ Oct 12 2008, 02:17 PM)
It is possible but picture quality could suffer due to interference, for video signals to reduce the interference to the signal the signal wire is normally surrounded by the ground wire (i.e. coaxial), also having individual ground wires for each part of the video signal is ideal, but my cheap HD xbox cable used a common ground. So try it out and see, but if the picture suffers from interference then that is probably your source of it. Also I would consider using the wire shielding for ground vs. just the black wire, therefor protecting the signals from outside interference (but they would still be able to interfere with each other being surrounded by a common ground and not there own).
Hmm... So I think the best option would be to use the black one for ground to the Green channel, and the shielding as a ground for both red and blue channels since both are almost the same signal. Hmm I think it might work.
Ok so all I would need is a couple of Component/RCA jacks and a switch. The switch would be easy to install. Just a switch with 3 terminals, the middle one would be the common ground for mode select, then one side with the HD mode pin and the other with the Advanced mode pin. There is a set of pins that both modes use by default, so I just need to bridge them together and hook up the switch the way I want it.
I'm gonna do a diagram and see if my design works.
Post by: eXo on December 06, 2008, 08:32:00 PM
I then enabled NTSC mode but my TV which I know can support NTSC displays the picture in black and white.
Almost like it's not compatible with NTSC mode. I check the stock dash to enable HD mode but it's not there yet when the xbox boots into XBMC the TV is detecting 480i mode but I can't get to select any of the HD modes in XBMC either.
Can anyone shed any light on this? do I need like an NTSC version of the xboxdash.xbe file ?
mines originally a PAL btw but converted to NTSC with enigmahs program.
Post by: spn on December 22, 2008, 07:30:00 AM
I'm Italian, and I don't know why I cannot switch the HD resolution on my xbox
I've done this modify:
Than I play enigmah video switcher, I select NTSC (press
and I reset the console.After this step, I start with the scart the original dashboard, but I don't find the options of the HD resolution...I've found only Letterbox, widescreen ecc...but ANY hd resolution...
CAN BE THE DASHBOARD (original) outdated????
Post by: ldotsfan on December 22, 2008, 07:39:00 AM
QUOTE(spn @ Dec 22 2008, 11:06 PM)
Hi, sorry for my bad English...
I'm Italian, and I don't know why I cannot switch the HD resolution on my xbox
I've done this modify:
Than I play enigmah video switcher, I select NTSC (press
and I reset the console.After this step, I start with the scart the original dashboard, but I don't find the options of the HD resolution...I've found only Letterbox, widescreen ecc...but ANY hd resolution...
CAN BE THE DASHBOARD (original) outdated????
Is xbox modded? Chipped or softmod? Is NTSC mode change confirmed sticky?
Post by: ldotsfan on December 22, 2008, 05:36:00 PM
QUOTE(spn @ Dec 23 2008, 01:29 AM)
The XBOX is chipped with a xchanger 2.5...
i don't know how confirm the ntsc mode...
I starth with XMBC, than I play enigmah (pre-charged on the hdd)
I press the button B, and I don't know other wise to confirm the change. I've to reset the xbox.
Check the NTSC/PAL mode with a dash like unleashX or XBMC. I personally use XBMC.
Post by: 2 Bunny on September 17, 2009, 05:01:00 PM
Number 1: Do I need a VGA extension cable to do this? If so, how to I get all the wires into the plug on the end? Do I just stick them in there and hope that it works, or do I yank the end off and try to watch where all the wires go? Is it do able without a soldering iron?
Number 2: If it helps, I'm using an old school NEC MultiSync LCD 1550M (1995ish I think?) that apparently supports "Sync on Green", would I be able to get non widescreen 720p out of this considering that its maximum resolution is 1024X768?
Thanks so much! The xBox Scene "Skinnex" community forum is so helpful all the time.
- 2 Bunny
Post by: Heimdall on September 25, 2009, 02:06:00 AM
Post by: 2 Bunny on September 25, 2009, 05:15:00 AM
QUOTE(Heimdall @ Sep 25 2009, 04:06 AM)
The Xbox has to be switched to NTSC. The TV format is irrelevant, so long as it has a VGA (RGB) input.b
Right. No point in really having a "pal" xBox anyway.
- 2 Bunny