| QUOTE (catdog2 @ Nov 13 2004, 03:25 PM) |
| One fix for this is quite simple, cut the data track on the motherboard and insert a resistor. With the modchip off, the resistor has very little effect on the data line and so the xbox boots normally. With the modchip on, the resistor limits the current to less than 5mA (less than one-tenth of the original value) and so prevents any long term damage occuring to the xbox. |
thats a great idea, but how much would it shorten the life of the xbox? i woudl have thought that with ic's they would eitehr work, or get blown and not work
It appears an earlier post about this has prompted one modchip designer to do something about it, read here.
To my knowledge all other modchips hold D0 (LFRAME) low continuously.
Edit: Xenium ICE does not do this and is therefore this is not a problem
Also, cheapmod installs are not effected by this since the LFRAME track is cut and connected to a switch instead of grounding it.
This post has been edited by catdog2: Nov 19 2004, 09:31 PM
| QUOTE (ferrari_rulz_02 @ Nov 13 2004, 06:33 AM) |
| thats a great idea, but how much would it shorten the life of the xbox? i woudl have thought that with ic's they would eitehr work, or get blown and not work |
Wait for a year and I will tell you how many modded 1.6 xboxs I have seen just die one day for no reason...
Until then I cant give an exact number - only a warning about it.
ok then, os its not somethign i have to worry about then. its just that i install mod chips for people, and i dont want them blowing coz of too much current through an ic.
| QUOTE (ferrari_rulz_02 @ Nov 13 2004, 07:32 AM) |
| i dont want them blowing coz of too much current through an ic. |
That is what will happen - but not necessarily immediately.
As an installer you have the choice of adding a 3 cent resistor, or having people bring their xboxs back to you complaining when they stop working.
Edit: Double post
This post has been edited by catdog2: Nov 13 2004, 07:56 PM
catdog, do you have a diagram/pic with res. value. thx. this worries me also,
| QUOTE (alladdin @ Nov 13 2004, 11:45 PM) |
| catdog, do you have a diagram/pic with res. value. thx. this worries me also, |
There is a link to the diagram at the very top of the first post.
this is an excellent post. I shall certainly be following your advice. Thanks catdog2 it is appreciated.
This should be pinned by one of the mods
Definitely! Everyone, including (and especially) the modchip manufacturers, needs to see this. I will start doing this as well.
Hmm this is interesting, i seem to recall that both Xenium and SmartXX modchips only pulsed the D0 & LFRAME anyway to reduce stress such as this. Will have to see if any of the members from either team will comment on this matter.
Untill then though, do you have a link catdog2 of where we can order some of these needed resistors from online?
I think it's this one...
RS Components : 348-0443
www.rswww.com
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
This post has been edited by XOR: Nov 14 2004, 03:21 PM
Thats the wrong part.
From RS the part number is 348-0566
680R SMD resistor.
A standard carbon 0.125watt 680R also fits in here easily and is very easily obtained all over.
Testing on my new AFRAME signal is going well. Although designed for the 1.6 I was suprised to see this working for all xboxes extremely reliably. I might leave a pad with the old D0 signal but I think the new signal will work for everyone.
when i installed my X3, i used a different Lframe(d0) point that the tut showed. Will cutting that trace to the lframe shown here and adding the resistor still work?
| QUOTE (Morglum @ Nov 14 2004, 04:15 PM) |
| Hmm this is interesting, i seem to recall that both Xenium and SmartXX modchips only pulsed the D0 & LFRAME anyway to reduce stress such as this. Will have to see if any of the members from either team will comment on this matter. |
Unfortunately I don't have these modchips to verify if this is true or not. If someone with either of these chips could boot their xbox and measure the voltage on LFRAME once it is running and post the results it would be great (3.3V = OK, 0V = Problem).
| QUOTE |
| when i installed my X3, i used a different Lframe(d0) point that the tut showed. Will cutting that trace to the lframe shown here and adding the resistor still work? |
| QUOTE |
| just to clarify, do i still take the same lframe point to grnd. ie the left hand red point(left side of resistor.) in your pic. thx. |
Yes, you can connect
LFRAME to the left hand side of the resistor (the
LFRAME point shown in xecuter install diagrams) and cut the track on the top of the motherboard.
bump see what modchip devs say about this
I went to radioshack and picked up a 1/2 watt 680 ohm resistor with 5% tolerance. Will this work? And also, does it matter which way the resistor is facing when u solder it in. Sorry if these questions are n00bish.
| QUOTE |
| I went to radioshack and picked up a 1/2 watt 680 ohm resistor with 5% tolerance. Will this work? |
Yes this will work. It does not matter which way round you solder it.
I would probably solder a small piece of kynar wire on each end of the resistor, insulate it and solder the kynar to the pads. Stick the resistor to the board with hot glue so it does not flap about, if you use this method. It puts less stress on the solder pads on the board
| QUOTE (catdog2 @ Nov 15 2004, 09:25 PM) |
| 3.3V is the normal voltage with no chip. What I am interested in is whether the modchip is pulling this down to 0V - so yes the chip needs to be installed and running. |
Ok...If I get bored tomorrow I'll rip it open and measure...
| QUOTE (Morglum @ Nov 14 2004, 04:15 PM) |
| i seem to recall that both Xenium and SmartXX modchips only pulsed the D0 & LFRAME anyway to reduce stress such as this. |
I remember reading something about this also. It was specificaly for the Xenium though.
anymore input on this?
I recently did an install for a guy using an x2.6 on a v1.6 xbox.
do I need to have the guy bring his xbox back in so I can do this to it?
and all I do is solder the resistor and cut the trace?
sounds easy enough.
well the smartxx chips now come with a 1.6 lpc rebuild kit...when i get my rebuild kit in ill let you know if it can fix this or not
Great research, this will definitely save many XBoxes
. I love my 1.0.
EDIT: However, as this is a great method, I do remember reading an older manual from SmartXX that seemed to draw current and ground it while simultaneously completing the same result. It seems that have the current withdrawal featured in this new device that you can order from them for the bottom side of the 1.6 motherboard.
See it here: http://smartxx.com/m...eader_16_v2.php
SmartXX developers truely are geniuses. As you can see, this device interacts with the LPC, which means the data and current from the board are flowing through the LFRAME quicksodler device as well as the smartxx chip. It also seems that the device utilizes one extra point on the LPC, the name of which is not specified. However, I'm sure you have already, but be sure to contact Team SmartXX and see what they think on your experiment. They seem to be the more intelligent of the modchip developing teams. I ahve a SmartXX, and it's easy to tell they worked hard and made a truely amazing piece of hardware and an astounding package of software.
Anyway, keep going with this.
EDIT: Nevermind what I said about the extra LPC point utilization. I rechecked the image and it's obvious to tell that there is no lead on the PCB. I just have to wonder what that point does. It's a possibility that it makes it easier for Live to get data from the PCB.
Just done this to a couple of 1.6 boxes and they work fine with the mod done.
i have done this on 2 boxes and it works great
Just saw the diagram link,sorry
this is good stuff. I just got my 1.6 today and ordered an X3. I'm definitely going to use the resistor as I don't want to ruin this new toy. One question though:
I was comparing the image originally posted (top of the very first post in this thread) with the URL=http://http://www.teamxecuter.com/x3/tutorials/x3pin16.htm]X3 install tutorial for 1.6 pinheader[/URL](had to save the original 'resistor install' image local, and flip it upside down to match the two up), and I noticed that there is an extra LPC connection on the resistor install pic.
If you are looking at the resistor install image "non-flipped" its in the second row
five down and runs almost straight to the left.
Can anyone tell me what this connection is? Does not having this connection affect the X3 install?
| QUOTE (pedro @ Nov 18 2004, 04:27 PM) |
I recently did an install for a guy using an x2.6 on a v1.6 xbox. do I need to have the guy bring his xbox back in so I can do this to it?
and all I do is solder the resistor and cut the trace? sounds easy enough. |
Its completely up to you whether you want to bring the xbox back and add this extra mod - but I would definately recommend you do it on any future installs. Yes soldering the resistor and cutting a trace is very easy!
| QUOTE (gnelson) |
| I am planning on buying a modchip for a new 1.6 box. I was looking at X3, Xenium Ice or SmartXX - leaning toward Xenium Ice. Do any/all of these chips have the same problem that is described in this post? |
Unfortunately I don't have any of these chips, hopefully someone will post the results of measuring LFRAME voltage while the chip is running. I will update this thread if I find info on these chips.
| QUOTE (Exige_) |
Great research, this will definitely save many XBoxes . I love my 1.0.
EDIT: However, as this is a great method, I do remember reading an older manual from SmartXX that seemed to draw current and ground it while simultaneously completing the same result. It seems that have the current withdrawal featured in this new device that you can order from them for the bottom side of the 1.6 motherboard. |
Im not quite sure what you are trying to say here. Grounding LFRAME either directly or through the modchip is the problem. The PCB to fit on the bottom of the 1.6 is just an easier method than using wires - it has nothing to do with this mod and doesn't effect the current flow problem.
| QUOTE (Exige_) |
| However, I'm sure you have already, but be sure to contact Team SmartXX and see what they think on your experiment. They seem to be the more intelligent of the modchip developing teams. I ahve a SmartXX, and it's easy to tell they worked hard and made a truely amazing piece of hardware and an astounding package of software. |
No I havn't contacted them - hopefully they have already dealt with this problem on existing chips by releasing LFRAME after booting. I'm waiting for someone with a Smartxx to confirm if this is the case or not.
| QUOTE (Sneeekey) |
this is good stuff. I just got my 1.6 today and ordered an X3. I'm definitely going to use the resistor as I don't want to ruin this new toy. One question though: I was comparing the image originally posted (top of the very first post in this thread) with the URL=http://http://www.teamxecuter.com/x3/tutorials/x3pin16.htm]X3 install tutorial for 1.6 pinheader[/URL](had to save the original 'resistor install' image local, and flip it upside down to match the two up), and I noticed that there is an extra LPC connection on the resistor install pic.
If you are looking at the resistor install image "non-flipped" its in the second row five down and runs almost straight to the left.
Can anyone tell me what this connection is? Does not having this connection affect the X3 install? |
Pin 9 on the LPC (which you are referring to in that long description

) is 3.3V. The wire is required to power some modchips, but the X3 doesn't require it.
Very, very interesting.
I have recently purchase a batch of Aladdin XT lites. I have wired my first install for an "always on" config by grounding the D0 ( Lframe ) on a 1.6 xbox. So, if I get what you're saying correctly, by installing a 680 ohm resistor between said points in the diagram ( in lieu of a direct ground ), I can alleviate worries about prematurely overdriving the xboxes D0 output?
Is there a wattage rating of the resistor? Do you have a part number for the surface mount component? If the surface mount resistor isn't available, can I use a standard resistor? I'd like to safe gaurd my handiwork, by taking this precaution. TIA!
One other point....are the lpc rebuild pcbs ( Smartxx, Aladdin, ect, ect.... )addressing this problem?
| QUOTE (Firebaall @ Nov 19 2004, 09:25 AM) |
Very, very interesting.
I have recently purchase a batch of Aladdin XT lites. I have wired my first install for an "always on" config by grounding the D0 ( Lframe ) on a 1.6 xbox. So, if I get what you're saying correctly, by installing a 680 ohm resistor between said points in the diagram ( in lieu of a direct ground ), I can alleviate worries about prematurely overdriving the xboxes D0 output?
Is there a wattage rating of the resistor? Do you have a part number for the surface mount component? If the surface mount resistor isn't available, can I use a standard resistor? I'd like to safe gaurd my handiwork, by taking this precaution. TIA!
One other point....are the lpc rebuild pcbs ( Smartxx, Aladdin, ect, ect.... )addressing this problem? |
For an "always on" installation you can just cut the track on the top of the motherboard, and connect the
LFRAME point shown in the diagram to ground (you don't need to worry about the resistor at all). The resistor is there to allow the xbox to work with the mod
on or off without any problems.
1/8 W (0.125 W) or higher is fine (actual power used is 0.02W).
It doesn't matter if you use a standard resistor or surface mount - I just had surface mount available and it does a clean tidy job. A 1/4 W standard resistor can be installed, just cut the wire short, bend it into shape and solder the ends to the vias shown.
The rebuild PCBs are just an easier method to install a modchip into a v1.6 - they are exactly the same as using wires.
68mA?! I'm surprised you can't smell it..
Awfully nice of you to take the time to explain it in such detail.. Hopefully this will save more xboxes than it kills..
Not through any fault of catdog2, I'm just picturing a 14 year old kid taking a steak knife to his data tracks..
so the question i have is if u use a dpdt switch y not just y not have a wire on both d0 points on either side of the trace u break and have when u turn the mod off u fip the switch so that direction is making contact to the 2 d0 points and the unmodded mode works and no resistor needed
That would work, but it is unnecessary to dink with a switch.. if a 680Ohm resistor takes it down to ~5mA that is perfect..
So is this mod needed with the Xenium Ice? Anyone know for sure?
Lor
I have a SmartXX, but it's a 1.0 XBox. However, I would sitll like to know how to measure and/or observe the release of LFRAME from the chip.
| QUOTE (catdog2 @ Nov 19 2004, 07:13 AM) |
Its completely up to you whether you want to bring the xbox back and add this extra mod - but I would definately recommend you do it on any future installs. Yes soldering the resistor and cutting a trace is very easy!
Im not quite sure what you are trying to say here. Grounding LFRAME either directly or through the modchip is the problem. The PCB to fit on the bottom of the 1.6 is just an easier method than using wires - it has nothing to do with this mod and doesn't effect the current flow problem.
Pin 9 on the LPC (which you are referring to in that long description ) is 3.3V. The wire is required to power some modchips, but the X3 doesn't require it. |
| QUOTE (triggernum5 @ Nov 19 2004, 10:14 AM) |
I'm just picturing a 14 year old kid taking a steak knife to his data tracks.. |
I got a visual on that and it ain't pretty!
-nB
| QUOTE (pimpmaul69) |
| so the question i have is if u use a dpdt switch y not just y not have a wire on both d0 points on either side of the trace u break and have when u turn the mod off u fip the switch so that direction is making contact to the 2 d0 points and the unmodded mode works and no resistor needed |
A resistor is cheaper and more reliable, and as triggernum5 said "it is unnecessary to dink with a switch." This is trying to achieve full modchip functionality (on/off) without having to add extra complications for the user.
| QUOTE (pin87a) |
Out of curiosity why do you recommend grounding LFRAME and cutting the trace for a "always on" install?
If you just cut the trace the Xbox will always boot from the chip. |
You're right, it will work by just cutting the track.
I was worried about leaving LFRAME floating in an unknown state, but on closer inspection there is a pull up resistor in the motherboard design so this wont occur.
Firebaall: For always on just cut the track and don't worry about connecting LFRAME to anything.
| QUOTE (gnelson @ Nov 19 2004, 10:15 PM) |
For those of us asking about Xenium ICE. I posted at TeamXodus asking if this was an issue with the Xenium ICE and got this response from the moderator:
"The Xenium ICE does not short the LFRAME to ground like 3rd gen chips and cheapmods require, therefore this 'problem' doesn't apply.
The Xenium ICE actually controls the D0 with digital pulses from its CPLD, so you don't have to worry about this issue at all." |
Thanks, I have edited the first post with this information.
| QUOTE (catdog2 @ Nov 19 2004, 09:23 PM) |
Firebaall: For always on just cut the track and don't worry about connecting LFRAME to anything. |
Thanks Catdog2!
I'll go give it a go. I'm sure the xbox will be much happier without the extra current running though it's poor ol' ICs when the
Lframe is being grounded.
| QUOTE (gnelson @ Nov 19 2004, 10:15 PM) |
For those of us asking about Xenium ICE. I posted at TeamXodus asking if this was an issue with the Xenium ICE and got this response from the moderator:
"The Xenium ICE does not short the LFRAME to ground like 3rd gen chips and cheapmods require, therefore this 'problem' doesn't apply.
The Xenium ICE actually controls the D0 with digital pulses from its CPLD, so you don't have to worry about this issue at all." |
| QUOTE (Aislin @ Nov 20 2004, 12:16 AM) |
Excellent thread. Bump. Not that it needs it. |
does it seem that anyone cares`?

buzz of punk.
*tagged*
i have been waiting for that smartxx reply for a while now too!
| QUOTE (jonarvid @ Nov 20 2004, 10:15 AM) |
Just out of interest, and since im no electronics whiz, is it the xbox or the modchip that will "fry"? |
It is the xbox that will fry..
you did exactly the right thing posting this. i think it is very important to bring things like this to the attention of others. Its not like you have just pointed out a problem in the making, you have provided a workable mod to get round it.
In no way can this be seen as a pop at any chip or any install. What it does do is give installers an informed choice, one which I shall certainly carry on following.
Thank You
well .. yes of course..first have u tried to check the tangasized vector cables of the second one?
anyone tried v2.0 in a GT? Nice screen i said and sat down. hmm.. at 6pm i left my room. Then i ate something.
| QUOTE (jROC99 @ Nov 21 2004, 12:13 AM) |
I agree that cutting that trace near the chip is dangerous. Especially for the non tech-savy people.
My opinion would be to get something like a fine dremel tool.
This is what i have and ..it's what i plan to use when trying this fix.
jROC |
eeeeejjoooooooooooohh.. teh m45t4. Do u think my colorbred is red?
I put a cheapmod on a 1.6, i lifted the Xyclops leg from lframe, and ran the lframe trace to the lframe pin on the lpc, is this ok? do i need to put a resistor in or cause the lframe goes to cheapmod and the lifted Xyclops leg (i have grounded)
The cheapmod uses the Lframe like it is supposed to be used, so there is no need for a resistor.
The leg you lifted on the Xyclops other hand is probably not happy with floating in mid air, so it should be grounded.
An alternative way is not to lift the leg, just cut the Lframe-trace (as in the images above, in the middle of the small bit in the corner of the xyclops), and solder the CheapMod-Lframe to the lower point on the cut trace.
The top point is connected to the leg on the Xyclops, and also to a pull-up resistor on the underside of the board, so if you cut the trace, there is no need to ground anything, and with the cheapmod, there is no need to use any resisitor.
Hi all,
this issue seems to concern even the most experienced MODders...
... and to think i was about to install an Aladdin cuz i had to cut the trace with
a cheapmod...
BUT NOW, cutting that trace is within the protocol no matter what ModChip i use..or almost !
most confusing indeed ... what'll they find next month on these newer chips and the 1.6 Xboxes intrigues me more than the current issue since the the latter is beeing dealt with!!
For the same reasons i buy life insurance... i think i'll go for safer/cheapmod.
I wrote safer cuz it's got the longest track record and older xboxes that houses them are still running o.k..
i'd rather install an extra switch to toggle between BootChips, than have to wait and see how the dealers reacts to this bug.. i wanta mod that box soon if you know what i mean LOL...
most revealing thread indeed..
PS: The dealers reaction in addressing this issue (lol) reminds me of the time
the satellite signal was lost one night for all DSSCam owners, and how the DSS Revolution Team just disapeared from whatever thread that posted the issue..
soon, we couldn't find them anywhere on the net !!
yes that's why i wrote >almost< when refering to protocols with cutting the trace...
you wouldn't know of a reliable Canadian dealer that has the 'ice' in stock would you.
| QUOTE |
| Just use xenium ice aparently unaffected by this issue. |
The xenium (not ice, clone, hehe) I examined pulled D0 low for about 10 seconds and I would tend to agree this is more acceptable. I don't like it as much as I like my method but my method is new and basicly untested. One interesting thing with my 020-A protypes is that by without changing any code and just changing slew rates, encoding, hold times etc I cant get a prototype that's 100% reliable with my D0 disable method yet frags on the old 'ground D0 out in CPLD code' method or even D0 grounded to the side frame. The really weird part this is just as true on the 1.0 test box as it is on the 1.6.
ok, so soldering the resistor is no problem for me. im just wodering, do i still cut that trace because that isnt the lframe point i used, X3. just kinda confused about that

If I add the resistor and cut the trace will I still be able to turn my modchip off and use my xbox? Any negative effects to doing this mod?
Excellent diagram thanks.
Yes you can still use the mod functions as normal but with a better long term outlook for your box.
What about my setup -- I've got an X-Chip on a 1.6 mobo and I've used the alternate D0 underneath the board.
| QUOTE |
| What about my setup -- I've got an X-Chip on a 1.6 mobo and I've used the alternate D0 underneath the board. |
Cut the print (Trace) fit the resistor and still connect your D0 (Lframe) point underneath as before. this will now have a the resistor also connected to that point.
Cheers for the guys who posted the pic to me thanks
If you need it still skaaz drop me a mail and I will send it
Has anyone installed the resistor in 1.6 and duox2 install and has pics?
will be using the bt point on the reset switch as well
I read somewhere that the duox2 doesn't need the resistor but cant find or confirm this so would be interested in your findings Chancer
Stu
I installed the mod in a crystal today with the resistor (only just seen the possibility of the DuoX2 not needing it, going to check this)
Basically cut the trace shown in the picture. Fit the resistor as shown. (You can check all is well at this point if you measure between the 2 vias where you cut the trace with a multimeter. It reads 680ohm which is the value of the resistor you added.
Connect the D0 (Lframe) from the bottom of the resistor (The underneath Lframe point) to D0 on the DuoX2 and the bT point as normal.
I can confirm that this works 100 percent like this with this chip.
I will report back on my findings with the scope for this chip possibly tomorrow. As mentioned earlier the resistor may not be needed with this chip.
I just tested a dou x from eurasia on the scope and it appears to use a similiar set up as what I have in mind for my new chip in that it's pulsing a few times as needed during boot then goes high impendance. So basicly no resistor needed, it's tied low so briefly you'll miss it if you blink an eye.
Thanks Hippo
| QUOTE |
| I just tested a dou x from eurasia on the scope and it appears to use a similiar set up as what I have in mind for my new chip in that it's pulsing a few times as needed during boot then goes high impendance. So basicly no resistor needed, it's tied low so briefly you'll miss it if you blink an eye. |
Wicked.
Another reason to love the Duox2.
so xenium ice and duox2 dont have this problem? if anyone finds out any info if team smartxx or xecuter fixes this, please leave anything in this thread.
edit - double post

this is the image made by the topicstarter
Thanks for the pic Skaaz.
Is it sufficient to measure the voltage from the backside of the chip on a pinheader?
I'm guessing no, but i really dont have much of an idea.
The reason i ask is its pretty much physically impossible from what i see to measure the point 'LFRAME to modchip' on the zoomed pic (yellow) with an X3, as the chip 'covers over' this track (top-side of mobo).
Measuring from the underside would seem quite teadious, however if I want to try it out, do i just go for either of the points where the resistor is to be soldered?
| QUOTE (basso4735 @ Nov 23 2004, 04:57 AM) |
| so xenium ice and duox2 dont have this problem? if anyone finds out any info if team smartxx or xecuter fixes this, please leave anything in this thread. |
| QUOTE (Chancer @ Nov 22 2004, 06:30 PM) |
| Cut the print (Trace) fit the resistor and still connect your D0 (Lframe) point underneath as before. this will now have a the resistor also connected to that point. |
| QUOTE (jROC99 @ Nov 23 2004, 10:39 AM) |
Has anyone actually seen any dead boxes yet due to this problem ???
jROC?? |
Hi
I think we'll have to wait a year or so before one can answer that for shure !!
... By Then, peeps that does a lot of Mods might have pinned the >comebacks< to
a certain install protocol .....
| QUOTE (pico321 @ Nov 23 2004, 05:02 PM) |
Managed to measure voltage with an X3. 3v with modchip disabled (no surprise ) 0v with chip enabled. So i guess its a problem with this chip. Cut trace and getting a resistor tomorrow.
For what its worth to anyone, you can just cut the trace and use your box with modchip enabled and not worry about resistor, of course you cant play with the chip disabled. Just im playing atm with it cut no resistor. Plus if you press power to long, it just starts to frag (power cycles) then you get the chip on 
also i measured voltages with no dvd or hdd plugged in if it makes any differnce, i doubt it would have.. |
Having the DVD/harddrive in makes no difference.
Can you please post the X3 OS version, as I believe the modchip probably has the capability to fix this problem in a future OS release by pulsing the line rather than holding it low.
| QUOTE (xecuter @ Tue Nov 23, 2004 8:12 pm) |
its absolute horse shit - certainley in X2.6 / X3 case anyway
duox2 is just some glorified cheapmod - no talent at all went into making it. |
The response to this issue on the Team Xecuter forum. So I guess they mean that there is no problem.
| QUOTE |
its absolute horse shit - certainley in X2.6 / X3 case anyway
duox2 is just some glorified cheapmod - no talent at all went into making it.
|
This is
not an answer. It's just like "shut up and don't ask questions". If it's not a problem, tell us why, because the evidence looks bad from here.
And either way, stand or fall on your own merits. Don't try to justify yourself just by saying someone else is bad.
Xecutor still has some answering to do.
Yeah its no kinda response to me either, just shrugging it off aswell IMO.
In response to catdog2, i am using latest X3 bios 1959.
Even if its true that its not a problem, though i measured 0v with chip on, it cant hurt doing this mod anyway, just to be safe. Thats what im doing anyway.
). We have here say on Smartxx v2 (not 100% sure) and they have not commented as of yet. Xecuter has a comment that in their opinion DuoX2 is "a glorified cheapmod" but will not confirm that their chips have no problem with this issue. Seems obvious to me what companies have it together and which have issues. Even if you, "the companies", haven't dealt with the problem at least keep us, "the buyers", in the loop let us know your working on resolving the issue. Don't shun your supporters or soon you will find you have none.
For those of you asking about xecuter and other chips where they have soldered to the alternative DO/LFRAME point on the BOTTOM of the motherboard, my understanding is that this point is actually the SAME point as the resistor in the mod diagram, but the resistor is shown on the TOP of the motherboard. Therefore your resistor is still in the correct circuit.
ie. you can leave your DO/LFRAME connection to the xecuter etc where it is and just do the mod as shown.
feel free to correct me if I'm wrong...
cheers to all you guyz for all the hard work and info
| QUOTE |
can i be any more clear ????
its bullshit marketing ploys by other people. TRUST ME !!!!
ffs you'd think you guys would take my word for it.
we pinch lframe for a few milliseconds with 0v - its absolutley not needed any more than that.
besides i have been testing x3's in xbox's for almost a year now - i have a clue ok ? |
| QUOTE (pico321 @ Nov 23 2004, 04:02 PM) |
Managed to measure voltage with an X3. 3v with modchip disabled (no surprise ) 0v with chip enabled. |
Are you sure you measured correctly?
It contradicts quite heavily with the above statement from Team Xecuter.
More work goes into DouX making it retail at $15 than an X3 retailing at $60. So who are we believing here, a guy in the thread that says he measured it at 0 volts or the guy that says he's been testing X3 for a year now when it's been released to retailers for less than 2 months.
I'd like to see someone measure this again and get back to us.
Team Xecuter always has that attitude.
Everything is viewed by them as an attack.
All they have to say is " Ok. we're gona verify these findings" and go test it.
But instead they always choose to insult their end users..
Poor customer service time and time again with Team Xecuter
jROC
Added the findings in this thread to my webpage in case needed..
http://xbox.bula.nu/...install_1.6.asp
can anyone who isnt payed by teamexecuter, smartxx etc. make this here sticky?
I believe I read earlier in the thread that a dremel with a fine point cutting tool would do.
yes, i did wonder that myself. the trace is on the surface and i used a "stanley"blade, i did worry about going into something in the board tho... is it safe if you make a deep cut ??
hold on a moment... i'm gonna chip my 1.6 box with an aladin xt it's good or it also need the resistor?
Did anyone redo the LFRAME measurements on a v1.6 with an X3?
yes I want to know for sure the D0 scheme on X3 aswell.
with the trace cut and the resistor in the box boots ok unmodded. Fit the chip as normal and chip enable /disable is controlled from the chip.
this one seems to have gone cold? i thought we might have seen some more test results posted. i saw something sugesting the clevermod is now pulsing also,nothing on the site link i used tho , has it changed....

What is worst...LFRAME to ground or LFRAME alone...not connected to anywhere...?
| QUOTE |
| Smartxx has been made aware of the issue on the 1.6 XBox and the rumors that a resistor is needed. Smartxx hasnt ignored this, but they didnt make any statement about it as they heard these rumors because they didnt want to cause a panic among chip owners, ex You must fix your xbox this way or it will die. While adding a resisitor may help, it may also cause more issues for 99% of the peolpe when they are cutting traces on thier motherboard. Smartxx will make a statement when they have other solutions. Till then, if you want to add a resistor and cut the motherboard, go ahead, but be aware that you may cause more problems for yourself if you cut the motherboard in the wrong place etc. |
Well i think that pretty much shows thats it
IS an issue with SmartXX chips too. Time to buy your resistors everyone.
Part number: 348-0566
Part name: 680R
Website: www.rswww.com
Is this the right resistor? Just want to be sure as I haven't seen anybody post pictures yet.
http://www.radioshac.....t_id=271-1117
Where is the proof this does happen? Does it blow your XBox? has it happened to anyone? It's all well and good stating it could happen but thats no reason to butcher your motherboard over an eventuality that may never happen.
Where did this info come from?
All these questions should have been investigted and answered before anyone began soldering resistors.
So I put to all the experts here, can you answer the above questions.
Um...the diagram in the first post dont work, and I'd like to see it as I am going to do this mod when I do the 1.6 rebuild on my new Xbox. Thanx.
| QUOTE (XplicitContent @ Dec 3 2004, 05:21 AM) |
| Um...the diagram in the first post dont work, and I'd like to see it as I am going to do this mod when I do the 1.6 rebuild on my new Xbox. Thanx. |
A mirror of the diagram is on Bulan's page
http://xbox.bula.nu/...install_1.6.asp | QUOTE |
| yeah, what resistor should I be getting, it seems worth it to me to do it when i install my x3, but i just want to know which resistor one i should be buying, i'll pick it up on my way home at radio shack tomorrow if they have what i need |
Just get a 680 Ohm resistor in the smallest size they have.
| QUOTE |
| Where is the proof this does happen? Does it blow your XBox? has it happened to anyone? |
Do you know anything at all about electronics???
Catdog2 measured the current flow with Lframe pulled to ground and discovered how high it was in comparison with the maximum rated value for the components involved. this will lead to an increase in heta in those parts and a shorter life span.
No one is making you do it, in fact in your case I suggest you leave the ones that you mod without the resistor in but don't come bleating in here if the box packs in.
| QUOTE (Chancer @ Dec 3 2004, 03:51 PM) |
Do you know anything at all about electronics??? Catdog2 measured the current flow with Lframe pulled to ground and discovered how high it was in comparison with the maximum rated value for the components involved. this will lead to an increase in heta in those parts and a shorter life span. No one is making you do it, in fact in your case I suggest you leave the ones that you mod without the resistor in but don't come bleating in here if the box packs in. |
lol do I know anything about electronics?
as an electrical engineer for over 20years I would say I do. How about you?
| QUOTE |
| as an electrical engineer for over 20years I would say I do. How about you? |
Well as you ask I have a City & guilds 224, a HND in digital electronic techniques. I did a 5 year apprenticeship from the age of 16, numerous night school courses throught out my career. Now at 42 I own my own servicing business trading under the name of Avtec (Have done for the last 15 years) So I think having had 26 years of day in day out repairing every type of domestic electronic equipment made you could say I do know a little bit.
If you bothered to read the posts right from the start you will see how this theory came about. If you are an electrical engineer (specialising in what by the way? its a very broad description) you would not have had to question why drawing 3 or 4 times more current through something (like an LS7805V regulator) than its designed maximum rating would result in pre-mature failure. You don't have to wait for the problem to occur to understand why its a distinct possibility.
Perhaps with your knowledge you would like to explain why this would not be worthwhile doing.
Does the resistor still fit on if I have the LPC rebuild board installed already?
| QUOTE (Chancer @ Dec 4 2004, 12:14 AM) |
Well as you ask I have a City & guilds 224, a HND in digital electronic techniques. I did a 5 year apprenticeship from the age of 16, numerous night school courses throught out my career. Now at 42 I own my own servicing business trading under the name of Avtec (Have done for the last 15 years) So I think having had 26 years of day in day out repairing every type of domestic electronic equipment made you could say I do know a little bit. If you bothered to read the posts right from the start you will see how this theory came about. If you are an electrical engineer (specialising in what by the way? its a very broad description) you would not have had to question why drawing 3 or 4 times more current through something (like an LS7805V regulator) than its designed maximum rating would result in pre-mature failure. You don't have to wait for the problem to occur to understand why its a distinct possibility. Perhaps with your knowledge you would like to explain why this would not be worthwhile doing. |
After graduating from Uni I went to work for a company who tested circuit boards. This is during the design stage, well before the actual circuit found its way into its final home. I signed many NDA's, throughout the 80's. To cut the story short I have training and various qualifications in writing test code for Zehntel ATM's. So I am a Test engineer
I can see by reading my post again that it was not written as clear as I thought I had. Let me explain;
If there is an issue that components can fail then no one should be installing these mod chips. Cutting tracks could lead to more unforseen problems. To successfully test a circuit takes weeks if not months. I questioned if the person who discovered this had actually tested it to failure. I did not see any test results only theory. Also a disclaimer would be nice too. Who do the people come back to once this procedure fails.
I do not say its not worthwile to do, "better safe than sorry" I agree. But with my testing hat on I prefer to have conclusive proof before I go about making any changes.
By the way there is another way to do this without cutting tracks, just take a leaf out of the PC modding scene
I wont cut the motherboard track....is there any other option instaling aladdin always on???
Thanks!
does this affect the Apple-X VI Pro??
it looks identical to the DuoX but i'm not sure if it is??
thanks
| QUOTE |
| The main difference between the X2.3 and the X3 pin header is that e now use the entire LPC bus. You should be aware that the LPC on the Xbox was DESIGNED to have a pin header installed. All Xbox Dev kits come with a pin header from factory - so its obvious this is the best install method, not only cleaner but more secure. You should note that pin 4 and pin 16 is removed as default. For the v1.6 install you must also remove Pin 6 with some long nose pliers (This is 5v on the LPC bus - on the v1.6 Xbox the LPC 5v is permanently on making it impossible to cleanly disable the mod) The pictures show very clearly how and where to connect this to the Xbox motherboard. The pin header is item 9 on the parts list. |
im still a noob, but this is written in the instrucions for installing it... does this change anything concerning this topic?
| QUOTE |
| does this change anything concerning this topic? |
Not really, the possible problem is related to what is done with the LFrame signal . This is still not clarified on the X3 yet
any more info? concerning the X3 and Smartxx v2?
well team xecuter are saying they just ground it for a second because that's all the chip needs, i'm gonna go with them on this until it can be verified that this is infact false
| QUOTE (vinyl @ Dec 7 2004, 07:10 AM) |
| What happens if your xbox fries and your the one to prove it false? |
| QUOTE (vinyl @ Dec 7 2004, 08:10 AM) |
| What happens if your xbox fries and your the one to prove it false? |
its like being sheep,
you'd think the people who made and tested the modchip would know what they are talking about.,
http://www.teamxecut...p=132218#132218
i think my new crystal has fallen victim to this... i was watching a dvd in the original bios, and i turned it off, then started m8 a half second later... only to frag... boots without chip, but i cant get the smartxx to work now,
Well after modding like 150 1.6 xboxs and not even 1 with problems last 3 months, I wouldt take this warning too serious!
I am using all modchips:
Xecuter 3.0 more than 20 1.6 xbox
Xecuter 2.6 more than 50 1.6 xbox
SmartXX V2 more than 25 1.6 xbox
DUOX 2 more than 50 1.6 xbox
| QUOTE (Thephost @ Dec 9 2004, 05:22 PM) |
Could the resistor install be accomplished by soldering it between D0 and the ground point? This would eliminate the need to cut a trace and solder something else to the board. I plan to test this but haven't had time to do so yet.
TFP |
Hmm maybe
X3 test Results are IN
Crystal Xbox Edition - 2004-09-10 (different console that the Xenium test)
V1.6
D0 Tested with X3 and X3 1959 1.6 Bios
D0 at X3 config screen = 0v
D0 with chip disabled at Ms Dashboard - 3.3V
D0 with chip enabled = 0v
Results are the exact same as the Xenium...both chips have the same 'problem'
jROC
| QUOTE (striker754 @ Dec 9 2004, 06:40 PM) |
| Someone try this! |
I dont think this will work as its not the voltage on the D0 its the voltage to xyclops chip. If I understand correctly
i just read about it. i guess smartxx has been adressing this problem. COOL
That fellow brings up a good point in that when I scoped the Doux I didn't noticed but it could release Lframe better. It's not as clean as I thought it was the first time I looked at it. While you will see it release a bit you'll see in MS mode it's not even 1/2 the voltage and it's like 1.1 volts and it's not like CleverMod it's something else.
I guess it's been confirmed X3 is tied to 0v during mod chip enable then? Also SmartX seemed to dodge the issue some crap about military chips? They are probably getting results like I am on the 1.6b and pulsing D0 other than holding it low and not talking about it.
anyone ask around at the smartxx forums and see how they fixed this problem, and if they really did?
did you do use the "spring wires" or did you do a pin header install?
smart x is indeed addressing this issue
http://www.smartxx.c...eadid=2901&sid=
I asked if this would work with "other" chips.
It appears that the
Xenium, X3 have this problem
the duox, spider chip and smartxx dont or will not have this problem
cat dog please get a mod to update the front page...It is possible that this could be fixed in a bios update from x3 since they actully have an eprom on the chip it might allow certain chages
QUOTE(Zues1333 @ Dec 23 2004, 07:49 AM)
How long will the xbox last without the resistor?? The new xbox 2's will be released by Christmas 05.
I have been trying to get the xenium people to open their mouth about this in ther own forum. Here is what they last wrote.
QUOTE
I am not a member of the Xenium hardware development team, but everything that I know about the chip, the way it works, official words from the team, etc., you do NOT have to install a resistor with the Xenium ICE on 1.6 or any Xenium (ICE or blue) on <1.6. I will mention a note to the dev team to respond on this thread. I could be wrong...I don't think so, but if I am, then I'll get to learn something too.
Now I am looking forward for a respond from the hardware team...
Cheers for that jROC. Any recomendations on the best way to cut the LFRAME track.
Hi again, when adding the risistor to extend the life of a 1.6, do u have to cut the track as well if have installed a chip which can be switched off. Appreciate Guidence.
Yes you still have to cut the track. the mod will still work in both on and off modes if you have the resistor in.
im not cutting anything till i see what smartxx is doding with this updated rebuild pcb
im sorry im kinda clueless
is this a issuse with a 1.6 xbox with a xecuter 2.6 lite?
should i talk to my modchip installer about it?
QUOTE(daddo @ Dec 26 2004, 08:35 AM)
please someone answer :|
Hi, I noticed this article about extending the lifetime of the 1.6 model xbox.
I recently have build in a Aladdin Advance Live chip. But the Aladdin chip's are not discussed in this forum.
Do I need to do the same Lframe trick for the Aladdin Live chip?
Gert,
Aladdin chips hold Lframe to ground so you would need the mod
QUOTE(gjburg @ Dec 26 2004, 09:08 PM)
Ok did that but, cut the trace and the xbox is still working But I now can't boot my xbox with the original ms bios and is it not possible to play xbox live.
i'm not planning on using the modded box without the modchip enabled - i could just cut the trace and not worry about adding the resistor right?? is there any downside to doing this beyond not being able to boot into the original bios? any at all? (it won't affect running msdash.xbe from my dashboard as my dvd player will it??) basically, doing this sort of scares me, but I'd love to keep the lifespan as long as possible on this box......
QUOTE(spacemanspiffvt @ Dec 26 2004, 08:23 AM)
im sorry im kinda clueless
QUOTE(jROC99 @ Dec 9 2004, 08:25 AM)
Guys.. Check this out...
the diagram link dousn;t work, douse anyone have the picture. I got a modchip instale and I doun't know if he put on the resistor. I think it's an alladin chip, do these need it? But anyways if somone could send a picture that would be great then i can open up my xbox and compare.
thanks
Try this link : http://xbox.bula.nu/...install_1.6.asp
i think i am going to get the SmartXX LT OPX ,apparently this resolves that issuse?
ok MnesquE......fit chip....fit the rebuild cables under the lpc points.....cut the track.....try it. if it works fine ......if not cable from bt point on aladdin to ground (screw) now should be always on.
I doun't have a small torx so I can't get the 2 screws out holding in the HDD and dvd-rom assembly. I can however look in the side of the metal and see that I have an Aladdin 2 modchip. Do these modchips have the resistor problem?
Actually i have an install as follows:
No cable in Bt point.
No cable in D0 point in the chip.
A bridge from D0 point in the board to GND.
The chip is allways on.
¿Thats worng?
If the other posibility of installation is better i will remake it, of course, but now the mod is working in an allways on insltallation, and the thing that worries me is the bridge between D0 and GND points.
I want to know if its better do the instalation as alladdin indicates me.
Thx a lot
Douse the Aladdin 2 modchip have this problem? I doun't want to wreck my xbox so I will have to take it back to the guy who modded it and tell him to put on a resistor.
MnesquE.. i think since u havnt cut the track u are at risk as described in this thread. since u are happy with always on just cut the track and thats it. still works but no risk for tomorrow.... the do on board to grnd is not needed once u cut the track.
Any chance the link to the diagram could be updated? it would apeare that it is dead.
OK. I know I'm new at this. And, truthfully, some of you guys amaze me at the dedication and know-how in the constructive application(s) here.
That being said...
If I understand right, and if the resistor puts enough damper on the extra charge lying around, in place of a resistor, would this be a good location to wire in a case LED like this one to use up that extra juice? If I'm out in left field, then please say so...
I just got a new 1.6b and was / am planning on picking up an X3 very soon. I'm just planning the attack and wanted to know if this light thing could work, or I'll just go the resistor route and cut the trace.
Thanks for any help / comments.
michael_j_w: that link was posted a ways back in this thread: Resistor Install.
No you can't use a case LED. The problem as explained is grounding the Lframe permanent causes higher than normal current flow. Its not just spare "Juice" floating about looking for a home. The resistor is in effect accross the cut Lframe although not physically in that position and an LED would not even light bridging accross a supply.
Sorry
Chancer- Thanks for the quick reply, I get it now. That expaination helps a lot.
cheers.
bump . . .
(I gota know soon so I can play on newyears party)
QUOTE(Chancer @ Nov 14 2004, 05:55 PM)
Thats the wrong part.
BreakZ. Yes you have it correct with your explanation.
If anyone is struggling to get these resistors you can use a 0.25watt or even 0.5watt
Just solder a length of kynar wire on the ends of the resistor and insulate the legs all the way up to the resistor body (Use heatshring tube or some plastic sleeving whatever)
Solder the ends of the wire across the pads and hot glue the resistor(just a dab of glue is enough) somewhere on to the mobo safely out of the way of anything.
The site mentioned above does not seem to have the correct value in a low enough wattage rating. The lowest seems to be 2 watts whcih is really way too big in size.
Sorry can't help with the part numbers in US as I am in the UK.
I do have plaenty of both types in stock and have even sent guys them made up or the SMD ones but sorry the costs to ship outside the UK would be too much.
So, either a 1/4 watt or (1/2 watt) 680 Ohm carbon resistor is exactly what I need to look for?
Don't mean to bug you, there seem to be thousands out there as easy to come by and electronics is not my thing as of yet... I'm more on the 3d software side of things.
I've got the iron, the solder and have started soldering all kinds of wires to the practice board I picked up, just want to make sure I get the right part and don't screw up on something like a cheap resistor.
Thanks again!
QUOTE
So, either a 1/4 watt or (1/2 watt) 680 Ohm carbon resistor is exactly what I need to look for?
Yes any would be fine.
QUOTE(catdog2 @ Nov 13 2004, 06:53 AM)
Some new modchips, such as the Aladdin XT, have had to add an extra point X to try and deal with this high current as the original Aladdin modchips cannot cope.
Thephost I don't see where you are getting these measurments, maybe I mis read. You are measuring the Lframe and sying that when the chip is enabled the voltage at the Lframe point is higher than normal?
The problems creating excess current would only be caused by holding LFrame to ground constantly which would obviously give 0v at LFrame with the chip enabled.
Your last set of readings are not possible and indicate you have not cut the Trace and it is still connected.
You would also only be able to calculate the voltages using a scope by measuring the peak to peak voltage of a wave form yet you stated no pulsed signal at all.
Actually, that brings a question to mind... Just how deeply do you make the cut in order to cut the trace? I assume there are only traces on the top and bottom (nothing sandwiched inside the board) according to what I've read thus far?
Also, if anyone needs the 1/8W 680 Ohm resistors in the US, here is a site that sells in small quantities for $0.08 each: Mouser Elec.
The Xbox is a 4 layer PCB.
Cut gently but firmly to seperate the trace.
-nB
well i just modded my dads 1.6 xbox with a X2.6, i ordered some 680ohm resistors from lsdiodes when i ordered blue leds for my controller. I modded his xbox, soldered the resistor between the two vias, and then cut the trace. And to make sure that i cut the trace properly i took a ohm meter and tested to see what the resistance was between the two top vias, and sure enough it was 700 something ohms. And i thought, "arent these supposed to be 680 ohms?" so i measured the resistance on another 680 resistor they sent me and it was the same resistance, so i figured it was alright. The xbox boots perfect with the chip enabled, and perfect with the chip disabled. I dont know if this really is a issue, but i figure, better safe then sorry.
Yes, you cut the track, the internal BIOS will no longer work, it will always try to start on the chip-BIOS. If chip is not available or not ready, it will FRAG.
Yes, you can start MS-dashboard from EvoxDash, but the chip will still be enabled. Don't do that if you use Xbox Live.
Yes, you can reverse it bu connecting the vias together again. I would not recommend just dropping some solder on it, that would not work well, but you can remove the soldermask (the green coating) if necessary, and solder a wire over the cut. Or just solder the wire like you would have solderd the resistor on the back. Of course, then you might just as well solder in the resistor and have it over with.
Yes, cutting the track helps keeping the current-draw from the MCPX LFram-line low (non existand if you do not solder in the resistor), and that have the potential of reducing stress on the component, and keeping it alive longer.
There is however no solid proof yet what really happens. Need more long term testing to say. Mod one box with grounded Lframe and one with cut Lframe, leave continusly powerd on for a year or two and see what fails first. If the trace is cut, though, there is no load at all, and in theory, it can not break because of that. Ground it, and you pull quite some current, which must case some extra heating and strain somewhere. Use resistor, and current is reduced, wich must be a good thing.
QUOTE
The resistor is only for booting to normal MS? Why douse anyone want to boot to normal MS? it is usless isn't it?
Yes, the resistor is only if you want to boot with the chip off, to "normal MS".
NO, that is not useless. Ask anyone playing Xbox Live about that. Sure, somme would argue that the risk of getting banned is large, and it is, but if you are careful and take some precausions it is very possible to play live safely on your modded box.
I frequently play Live on my Xenium-modded version 1.6. No problems yet.
I'm new to the Xbox world, it's my first post here, so greetings to everybody.
I bought 2 weeks ago a new 1.6 and a Smartxx V2. I plan to install it in a few days. I've read a lot of information on several websites, and I've read nearly all this thread. I try to plan my chip installation as much as possible. I've had, I think, a little idea (sorry, I'm a noob, it's probably stupid, it's probably posted somewhere here, please forgive me)
This thread has scared me a little, I don't want to fry my box.
So there is what I've understood from all the things I've read since 2 weeks and what I plan to do :
Modchip enabled -> no xbox live (because they detect it and they ban your xbox)
Cut the trace and do not install the resistor -> always on situation -> no more xbox live but xbox mobo happy.
I'd like to play xbox live and make as little as possible soldering job.
I plan to :
1. Solder the pin header
2. Solder the nice LPC rebuilder shipped with my Smartxx V2
3. Cut the trace
4. Plug the chip and solder the D0
4. Flash Evox M8 bios in a bank
5. Flash an original xbox bios in an other bank
6. Install a larger hdd
7. lock the hdd
With all that, I hope everything will work.
1. No electrical stress to the xbox mobo
2. Playing non xbox live games from the hdd with Evox M8 bios
3. When I want to play xbox live games, I boot the original bios from the modchip
Does my plan will work flawlessly, or have I missed something ?
Thank you for your help
Xcargot
QUOTE(xcargot @ Jan 4 2005, 06:07 PM)
Thanks for your quick answer J_K_M_A_N
I suspected this part of the plan will not work.
But now I will try to understand why. I checked several guide here, and I didn't find the answer.
What does a modchip do ? It only provides an other bios to the system with less restriction about the code executed.
When the system boots, the chip override the original bios with a hacked one from a bank in the chip.
What does xbox live do ? It checks the bios. Maybe with a checksum or with some particular bytes. If it's a hacked one -> ban.
OK, but if it's exactly the same as the original one, the system will not see difference. The bios's come from different locations but they are the same.
I know, my explanation is surely too easy. Where do I make a mistake ?
Xcargot
If you boot a real original BIOS from the modhip or the real original BIOS from Flash/Xycolps on the xbox mobo should not matter at all. You are running original BIOS. Live checks BIOS. As long as the modchip serves up the original BIOS at all time, and nothing else, that is what it will se.
And in the version 1.6, both the original BIOS in the Xyclops-chip, and the BIOS in the mod-chip would both be read over the LPC-bus, so there is really no way to tell them apart.
Of course, if the chip has got advanced features, like control-thingis and LCD-interface that is accessable from the xbox software, it is probably possible to scan for that by checking the correct adresses on the LPC-bus. I don't think there are any such scans, but I could be wrong.
I'd say there is a pretty good chance that Live would work just fine running of original BIOS running of a chip.
Also, I'd say there is a pretty good chance that the xbox will work without problems for the rest of its life if you just install the chip as per the instructions, without cutting anything. :-)
But as always, I could be wrong.
So I am interedted in performing this mod when I get my X3 tomorrow. Ive read all 20 pages here, and the 3 on xecuter's site. The detractors to this say 1) it is not needed, 2) they don't want to cut a trace, or 3) there may be other negative effects that are, at this time, unknown.
I do not care about cutting a trace, since just removing the screws will void my warrenty. Plus, it is relatively easy to repair. Now all we are left withis "is it even needed", and weather there will be negative effects.
It appears that something is needed. If I am reading it right, this mod does two things. 1) adds resistance between the signal and ground when the modchip is enabled. 2) adds resistance to the normal line when the modchip is disabled.
I deffinately see the benefit of the first situation (V=IR). But I do not see why the second (modchip off) does not have a negative effect. You have just added extra resisance to the line.
Can anyone explain why the added resistance, under un-modded operation, does not have a negative effect? Also, can someone explin how 680 ohms was chosen as the applicable resistance.
Thanks
i tired to look at the diagram youposted...*im using aol*...and it brought me to the aol search screen w/ skinheads.net forums-gary as a toddler.....check your link please
catdog, Thanks for the quick reply.
Tonight, I will be installing my first modchip into a v1.6a box. UPS should be dropping off a X3 with the rebuild pcb today. I would like to test the resistor mod and post my results.
I know I will test:
Pre-modchip, post-modchip(no resistor), and post-modchip(with resistor)
Before, durring, and after boot.
Modchip on and mod chip off
For consistency between testers, what exactly should be tested? Voltage, current, or resistance? We should also be testing from the same locations to produce comparable results. I will leave that up to the electronics gurus (catdog?) to provide this.
One last thing. I have a decent multimeter, but have only used it on non-sensitive electronics. Are there any risks, tips, or tricks that we/I should be aware of when testing a runing x-box?
Thanks again
pete
The correct SMD type is easier to fit accross the connections shown in the original post rather than accross the print track thats being cut. Its an exact fit accross also.
There should be no trouble sourcing these but anyone in the UK struggling I have 1000 in stock at the moment.
can someone CONFIRM that Xenium ICE does/doesnt have a problem?
not just from 1 test by jROC because i am seeing everywhere that it DOESNT have a problem. Team Xodus forums, this thread, all over saying it DOESNT have a problem. But then a few people saying FIRMLY that it does have the problem.
Please someone verify.
ya i believe jROC but im hearing so many people saying xenium does not have this problem. ive seen it on team xodus forums so i dont know if i can beleieve that...of course they will say "no problem".
SmartXX v2.0 doesnt have this problem? Is that 100% posotive? If i get someone qualifed to tell me that it doesnt have a problem with v1.6 then i will order one right after i see it.
pardon my ignorance, but i just wanna make sure i understand this correctly.with the x3, i believe that the LPC rebuild pcb for that covers the vias that you wire the resistor to on the bottom of the mobo (i may be wrong, correct me if so).
so would the best method be to install the resistor ontop of the motherboard? if that is the case, would this diagram be correct? pardon my crappy skillz. oh and i know i have to cut the trace, just making sure that the resistor + wires are in the correct spots.

please let me know, i wanna be sure to do this in any xboxes i mod
thanks alot.
Haha. So Team Xecuter said that this was not a problem for their modchips, and then they make a fix for the problem?
That's quite funny actually.
Any "fixes" made are just to humor the public and quiet anxieties by people who know nothing about electronics.
THERE IS NO PROBLEM, AND A RESISTOR IS NOT NEEDED. It is an extra step that you are taking, that doesn't help anything.
Look, I am an electronics engineer, retired from the US Air Force, where I worked with sensitive aviation weaponry circuitry for the last 20 years. You can not test the LFRAME circuit with a multimeter or a general-purpose oscilloscope. You need logic analyzers and a sampling scope, something around 2GHz and at least 8GS/s.
What I can tell you is that the LFRAME circuit is based on an OPEN COLLECTOR design (Google that term if you don't know what it means) and therefore simply the presence or absence of voltage means nothing. Not to mention the fact that the motherboard already has a 10k pullup resistor on that circuit...
Geeze. This whole thing started by someone's speculation, not on actual facts. Have ANY motherboards actually shown up that have been damaged by this yet? No... and there won't be any either. All of you that are hacking up your motherboard traces and installing resistors are just following a paranoid suspicion based on speculation rather than conclusive facts revealed by a proper scientific approach by properly trained personnel. You are more likely to damage your console yourself rather than the subject of this topic...
Unless you have access to the circuit diagram you know nothing of what the design is you also don't know if there is a pull up resistor in this circuit because you can not tell by looking at the Xbox motherboard excatly what the design is. So unless you have access to that circuit diagram you are guessing whatever you want to claim, just as a lot of the other theory is based on speculation.
Yes I do know what an open collector design is and I don't need google to tell me but I don't know any more than you do if that type of design is employed. If you can deduce the circuit layout fo a multilayer PCB by looking at it then you truly are a superman.
QUOTE
Have ANY motherboards actually shown up that have been damaged by this yet? No... and there won't be any either
You don't know this either anymore than anyone else does!!
Before you ask yes I do know about electronics I have a C&G 224 and an HNC in electronics as well as a formal 5 year apprenticeship and 28 years experience in the trade.
State facts of how you KNOW the design of the circuit and I may take more notice of you because at the moment you are guessing just like the rest of us.
Cap, do you want to explain the massive current that flows without the resistor then.. 68mA? Hmm..
Come on cap269 you made some bold statements now back them up.
No, the cat doesn't have my tongue. I don't feel the need to "back up" or prove anything I've said. Mark my words. What I have stated will be corroborated by others in the months to come. I've already stated all I care to about this topic. I stand on what I have said, and do not retract any part of it. I have not meant my posts in this thread to challenge anyone's expertise or to step on anyone's toes. I have simply stated my position on this topic, according to the education and experience that I have, and it is my right to state it the way I have. If you don't believe what I said, or any part or parcel of it, that is your right to do so, just as it was my right to say it in the first place. I still firmly believe that this mod is totally unnecessary, and in the hands of the electronically unskilled, it increases the chances of disaster. That's all I am going to say. The end.
Ok, so I've read the entire tread and feel like I'm back where I started. I will just ignore this issue, install a X3 chip as I've already planned and cross my fingers. I can always install a resistor in a couple of months if I deem it necessary.
Still, a very interesting tread.
QUOTE(kangas @ Jan 17 2005, 02:47 AM)
Ok, so I've read the entire tread and feel like I'm back where I started. I will just ignore this issue, install a X3 chip as I've already planned and cross my fingers. I can always install a resistor in a couple of months if I deem it necessary.
Does this only concern v1.6 xboxs, or is there something similar like this that will effect the v1.1???
QUOTE(Cr8Zy M0DdEr @ Jan 17 2005, 05:14 AM)
Does this only concern v1.6 xboxs, or is there something similar like this that will effect the v1.1???
catdog2: Thanks for the info!
i think your all paranoid. cap269 has experince in this area, and he says that there is no problem. and from what logical observations i hav emade, i cant see why there would be any issues.
CATDOG,
When I did my tests using the XBIT I saw similar results. During normal operation the pulsing of LFrame was there durring boot and when idle at the dash. When the modchip was on though, I didn't see the drop to 0v on the LFrame. The pulsing was still there, and the voltage went up by aprox. .7v. I posted my results earlier here. I was currious if you have seen them? I don't have that box anymore, but I'll have another 1.6 this weekend or next that I can test with again.
TFP
Ok, now we have a new SmartXX rebuild board that addresses this.. Looks like a couple of resistors and a tansistor inline on LFRAME:

Anybody have any ideas/thoughts on this?
So...
Here are the first victims.
http://www.allegro.p...p?item=39900101
Most of ya surely doesn't understand polish, but the guy writes: "the mobo was working before chip installation, and after that it won't work anymore". And some blahblahblahs
.
My friend who is a pro modder (min. 10 boxes a week) has also received 2 dead 1.6s with Aladdin chips (he soldered them before he get knew that grounding the LFRAME kills boxes). Most probably the MCPX is dead.
What can I say
? I'm glad that I've soldered an SST cheap, tight-ass to a 1.6
.
http://www.xbox-scen...ylkZbCFxIId.php
I for one will be buying one. Im just curious if it will work on the x3
however if its the same as the 1.6b
https://www.bmmods.c...&cat=257&page=1
it will not work on the x3
QUOTE(appleguru @ Jan 17 2005, 06:37 PM)
Ok, now we have a new SmartXX rebuild board that addresses this.. Looks like a couple of resistors and a tansistor inline on
LFRAME:
QUOTE(jc_t @ Jan 17 2005, 11:42 PM)
before i write my post, i just want to ask that you don't bash me for writing this first post like done to others. yes, this is my first post here, but i've been lurking and reading here for a while already and just haven't really had anything to say until now.
i got a question about adding the resistor. I noticed that the resistor is being placed between 2 vias on the back of the board, correct? One of those VIAs (the one on the left found in THIS PICTURE is being used as an alternate D0 point. Meaning in the case of the x2/x3 the gray wire is soldered to the via on the left, as seen in the tutorial pic on teamX's siteHERE
So...my confusion, if you wire the gray wire to that via, where does the resistor go? do you solder the gray wire to the resitor or something...or am i reading those pictures wrong??
thanks
QUOTE
Everything dies eventually and if you get 2 years out of the xbox/modchip..you're still ahead..
That one quote proves how little you really know about electronics. Sticking modchips in Games machines does not make you some kind of electronics wizard. I hope you tell your customers that the modchip and their Xbox will "Die eventually"
Maybe some will pack in maybe they won't and you certainly won't know yet anyway as the possible effects would be long term, dependant on use, enviroment used in etc.
One thing I am certain of is if you get a dead xbox 1.6 you will not without a relevant circuit diagram be able to tell if the failure is random or down to the fact you didn't fit the resistor. Don't do the mod nobody cares if it backfires on you, just don't bleat about it later.
To anyone who reads this if you read what catdog2 has written you will see is making a suggestion based on actual measurments, he is trying to prevent something its an idea its not forcing you to follow it but the amount of negative comments his post has received from people with no back up or proof that it does not do long term damage smacks a little of jealousy because you did not think of the idea.
ok correct me if im wrong but according to this diagram of the x3 rebuild board
X3 board

smartxx board

the smartxx board wont work? Is this correct can some one confirm
I've done over 30 1.6(
xbox-s lately and theres still not a single one dead.
All modded with x2.6 and x3.0
Havent seen any proof whatsoever that this phenomenon kills xbox's life expactancy. One thing i learned in my years of modding is that its pretty hard to kill an xbox beyond repairing.
We'll see what the future brings about this topic.
Let's hope not to much or i will be seeing 30 xbox's back in a half yr.
QUOTE(shiz @ Jan 18 2005, 06:35 PM)
i got a question about adding the resistor. I noticed that the resistor is being placed between 2 vias on the back of the board, correct? One of those VIAs (the one on the left found in
THIS PICTURE is being used as an alternate D0 point. Meaning in the case of the x2/x3 the gray wire is soldered to the via on the left, as seen in the tutorial pic on teamX's site
HERE
just wanted to let everyone know that the smartxx lt opx chip is already shipping from bmmods and i already have one in my 1.6 xbox and its working great...
no idea about the d0 issuse
you guys are all still paranoid. this isnt a problem, never has been a problem, and never will be a problem
Catdog2, have you done the same testing with the DuoX2 as with the X3 and xenium ICE? (diagrams/Screenshots)
It was stated that the DuoX pulses LFRAME, but I recently saw in some thread that it might not, now I'm a bit confused on this issue if it does pulse or not.
Oh and I also wonder if this statement from the 1st posts is still valid, or if some chips have been added/removed:
QUOTE
UPDATE: Modchips which pulse LFRAME and therefore do not suffer from this problem:
Xenium ICE
Duox2
(These results are from posts in this thread - I have not confirmed them)
I've done at least over 200 v1.6 installs since 3/19/04 (w/ X2.6 and X3) with no resistor fix and have not had one come back bad. Nice preventive fix but I haven't decided on what I'm going to do yet.
Me either RoboChicken
I've done over 300 consoles and not one returned...
I first for sure v1.6 i modded was in July of 2004.... if not earlier.
I just don't have complete records prior to that.
jROC
one thigs for sure, if this is a problem, and only time will tell, you guys are gonna get a lot of calls!. were the 1,6 really out and chippable in july, they only seemed to appear in uk in dec. how old is m8 1_6 ??
M8 came out July 6, 2004. I had several 1.6 consoles to chip at that time and was just waiting for the bios to be released. The 1.6 was "cracked" by Team Xodus on May 7, 2004.
have you looked to see if that smartxx board will work with the x3
all this technical expertise floating around and nobody can gve me an answer?
QUOTE(zikronix @ Jan 22 2005, 07:09 AM)
have you looked to see if that smartxx board will work with the x3
QUOTE(catdog2 @ Jan 22 2005, 03:21 AM)
Bulan: I will be getting some duox2 in a week, so might look into those when I find some time.
I have to say that I bought the resistor and had every intention of adding it in, but the solder points are just too small for my skills with the solder iron.
The mod went VERY smoothly with the X3 on my 1.6, no complaints at all.
BUT, is there an alternate location to solder in the resistor? I'm aware of the spot on the top of the board overtop of the trace that would need cut, and the spot which happens to fall within the opening on the LPC rebuild on the bottom of the board. Obviously, cutting the trace isn't a problem, it's the resistor that worries me as I was starting to melt the board a bit and still couldn't get the solder to stick on the bottom there on the small contacts.
The potential "need" makes sense to me, but is there another point to solder to that would be easier to get to??? I have no problem running wire from the top to the bottom of the board if I could hit those point easier...
Thanks for any insight!
QUOTE(catdog2 @ Jan 23 2005, 01:09 AM)
The X3 requires you to solder pins 13, 14, 15 to the LPC header (I2C data and clock, and 3.3V) which the smartxx doesn't use.
i have one word for all of you: paranoia.
has any one has a case of this being a problem?
me thinks the answer is a big fat NO.
CatDog2,
As u might know, I've put up a page with info on this with info taken from this thread.
Also just have added your latest testresults.
You find it all here: http://xbox.bula.nu/...install_1.6.asp
Would be nice if you could take the time to check trough it so that any info stated there are correct and up to date. Easy to miss out on new stuff in this rather large thread..
Anyhow it also would be nice if you would drop a mail or PM when there's any new findings about this issue, so that I could update the site w that info.
I have an v1.6 xbox and i have installed the x3 i got yesterday, So i need to solder the resistor and cut the wire? I want to use it with the mod chip either on or off, would this affect live as i am using live when the chip is off(going to)? If i dont install the resistor how much time would it be before the xbox died a couple of months? Sry if n00bish, just trying to be on the safe side.
I've got a 1.6, and I think I'm going to do this, just in case. If it turns out to not be a problem, well, I haven't hurt anything by doing it.
Is this the surface mount resistor reccomended?
http://www.digikey.c...w=87430&Site=US
Does anyone have one they could send me, as DigiKey has a minimum of 10, and a $5 charge for a small order.
-Duck!
well i just talked to my dad (who is a fully trained technician and works on this all the time). he said that the chip can no way supply 65ma of current, so anyone who gets that reading is doing somethign wrong/cant use a multimeter.
and also, with chips, they eitehr work or they dont. if was goign to fail, it would blow up straight away, or get hot and blow (but the longest time that that could be would be like 10mins).
so this problem does not exist, and there is no reason at all to have to install a resistor or anything
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Jan 28 2005, 11:56 AM)
well i just talked to my dad (who is a fully trained technician and works on this all the time). he said that the chip can no way supply 65ma of current, so anyone who gets that reading is doing somethign wrong/cant use a multimeter.
the duox 2 finaly has the problem?
please catdog make the test and answer!
In the data sheet for these CPLD's we're using it pretty much tells you straight up 'do not ground out more than 64ma through one pal block of the chip'.
On CMA32 there's D0 and D1 so you can use 2 pal blocks for grounding. Most Aladdins have D0 and X although some cloners never read the data sheet and just connect X and D0 to the same pin and thus the same pal block - not too bright. On Sunday chip there is D0 and D1 aswell but with the new life support signal you'll never use them. They are at least on seperate pal blocks though.
QUOTE
and also, with chips, they eitehr work or they dont. if was goign to fail, it would blow up straight away, or get hot and blow (but the longest time that that could be would be like 10mins).
Well that is absolute nonsense. That is a fact. I am a fully qulaified Technician. this is all I do for a living and the statement above is rubbish. Take for example a BU2508D as Line out transistor in a TV set. I get Sets in all the time with this part short circuit. the cause quite often is the line drive frequency is wrong which causes the Transistor to overheat as it is drawing too much current. A repeat failure of the transistor if the cause is left unresolved can be anything from a couple of minutes to over a week sometimes more so to state excess current would cause failure in at most 10 mins is not accurate at all.
QUOTE
he said that the chip can no way supply 65ma of current
What is this statement. Current is not SUPPLIED. The current is drawn The current in a circuit supplied by a fixed frequency output is dependant on the design and discrete components in the circuit.
Take a simple 12v power adapter that is rated at 800ma. This does not mean its output is 800ma. The current drawn from the adapter is dependant on the device connected to it. If its connected to say a programmer whose total current drawn id 8ma then that is it 8ma. The adapter does not kick out 800ma at the programmer.
If the chip determined the actual supply current which it does not there would be no problem because the current supplied could never exceed the output from the chip.
The theory behind all this as it came about was if the Lframe was held permanently to ground what would happen. So you measure the current in series with the circuit in both conditions (chip on chip off). Theory is the circuit draws excess current if the Lframe is held to ground permanent. To reduce the amount of current draw the signal can be pulsed. Some chips supposedly do this.
catdog2 was just looking at a way to reduce the current drawn when he posted this thread. Less current drawn = less thermal stress = better for the circuit concerned.
Update 18.00 GMT
Right just come from the workshop now after running some tests. The most interesting being without a modchip running and measuring the current in series. the current is 68ma. thats with the box running normal. I checked it 3 times to be sure.
With a Duo X2 in and enabled the current drawn is 52ma. This is less than the current drawn bog standard without the chip. Is this a problem ? No I don't think so.
Not able to test with an aladdin on this as I have none left in stock.
The meter is a Fluke 77 calibrated in Novemeber 2004 and used daily in repair work on TV Digisat etc so is not some cheap Radio shack one.
Any thoughts or conclusions from anyone
Not had chance to measure an X3 yet. Its a chip I rarely buy as all my customers are poor
so they always jump for the cheapest price install. I would be interested if anyone could measure the current before and after and post the results
QUOTE(jROC99 @ Jan 30 2005, 07:14 PM)
Ok..i'll do a bit of testing on teh X3 CE.. I already know the original X3 holds it low all the time. I measured it.
QUOTE(Mika-- @ Jan 30 2005, 10:52 PM)
Okay, i have a 1.6 Crystal with SmartXX V2 inside. Should i get worried?
Chancer are you saying that this is not a problem then, because it was stated earlier that the current draw from a x2 or 3 was 65 mA and if you messured 68 mA with no modchip installed then we should not even be having a discusssion about xbox failures!
I'm lost I'm going to have to do these tests myself now to see what really is happening.
How did you messure in series with the chip did you cut the trace?
Thanks
Kbarton
QUOTE(truBB @ Jan 31 2005, 01:15 AM)
Yes, I'd be worried, but don't be. Smartxx has noticed this problem, thats why they created the 1.6c rebuild board. It was just recently released (annonced, January 17,2005) so you prolly don't have it installed. So do as they suggested so far (install the resistor & cut the trace), OR pull your rebuild kit/LPC wire rebuild and install the new one shown below.
QUOTE(Chancer @ Jan 30 2005, 07:00 PM)
Right just come from the workshop now after running some tests. The most interesting being without a modchip running and measuring the current in series. the current is 68ma. thats with the box running normal. I checked it 3 times to be sure.
Sorry I have confused everybody with my poor explanations and bits missed. What I did was cut the trace and measure with the meter either end with the chip off and the current was 0.005ma which I would assume is normal as there is no load nothing on the output.
What has confused me is when measuring from Lframe to ground (which I realise will increase the current flow due to the internal resistance of the meter) I though the figure of 68ma was very high. The point i was trying to make or clear up is why should the current when measured the same way with the duo X2 enabled be lower than with the chip disabled if the Duo was now thought to ground the Lframe direct which surely would result in an increase in current drawn over the amount caused by just having the meter connected this way. Surely this would indicate that the Duo does in some way pulse the Lframe. Or is there still a problem?
I know it would have been better to measure the chip enabled mode with the meter in series with the D0 pad but I could not get the chip to enable.
I hope this makes more sense, probably not.
I finally got hold of a duox2 chip and tested it:

The current measured was 48mA, which is lower than some other chips but is still higher than it should be.
The duox2 does not pull LFRAME to 0V (the modchip cannot sink this level of current?) but only down to about 1.2V. This is still seen as a logic low by the xbox so has the same effect as grounding it completely (this is not good practice - the voltage should be as close to 0V as possible in a CMOS circuit).
The confusion about Duox2 pulsing LFRAME has come about because of this. Shown on the diagram below is another view of LFRAME with the modchip enabled. Without looking at the scale it looks like the line is changing between low and high levels. Notice that because it is never going up to the arrow marked at 3.3V it is actually changing between low and low (as far as the xbox is concerned). The X3 modchip operates in a very similar manner (pulls level down to about 0.8V) and has a similar current to the duox2 (51mA measured on X3).

Conclusion: DUOX2 does not pulse LFRAME. It holds LFRAME logic low in the same way other modchips tested do.
My head hurts:(
Can we dumb it down to the level of about a third grader:p
I think most of us just want to know what chips might cause premature failure and which ones wont.
too bad, I just installed a DuoX 2 when I read that it also has this issue...
So I went right ahead and cutted the Lframe of my box to make it an always on method.
but what do I do with the BT connection?
I now have it the way it should be connected when installing the duox in on/off mode, but my eject button does not realy work like it should.
when I touch the eject button, the box powers on, powers off, powers on and boots with chip (wich is pretty much all the box can do, considering I cutted the Lframe forcing it to boot to LPC right?).
anyone know of an other point to solder the BT to? I tried ground already, but that doesnt work, the box won't boot then (frags).
ps, I already removed the D0 wire to the modchip ofcourse
QUOTE
too bad, I just installed a DuoX 2 when I read that it also has this issue...
So I went right ahead and cutted the Lframe of my box to make it an always on method.
but what do I do with the BT connection?
I now have it the way it should be connected when installing the duox in on/off mode, but my eject button does not realy work like it should.
when I touch the eject button, the box powers on, powers off, powers on and boots with chip (wich is pretty much all the box can do, considering I cutted the Lframe forcing it to boot to LPC right?).
anyone know of an other point to solder the BT to? I tried ground already, but that doesnt work, the box won't boot then (frags).
ps, I already removed the D0 wire to the modchip ofcourse
Connect BT on the Modchip to Pin 9 on the Modchip (should be the second Pin down from D0 connection)
well, bmmods has the 1.6c smartxx rebuild boards in stock now, so maybe someone wants to test one out..........
I'm starting to regret that I bough executer chip.. a thread asking about the issue was quietly deleted from their forums.
Conclusions from that are that it is an issue and that they don't bother to fix it because by the time the xboxes start to blow up they have already cashed out.
QUOTE(catdog2 @ Feb 1 2005, 09:56 AM)
All of the chips I have tested might cause premature failure:
Nothing, i was wrong.
X3 Config Live Build 2666
[1959 -> 2666]
* [Fixed] Corrected LFRAME / D0 pull to 0V timing so it's no longer constant
QUOTE(talon32779 @ Feb 2 2005, 08:28 PM)
X3 Config Live Build 2666
QUOTE(amd187 @ Feb 1 2005, 03:00 PM)
too bad, I just installed a DuoX 2 when I read that it also has this issue...
QUOTE(talon32779 @ Feb 2 2005, 06:28 PM)
X3 Config Live Build 2666
QUOTE(talon32779 @ Feb 2 2005, 12:28 PM)
X3 Config Live Build 2666
QUOTE(talon32779 @ Feb 2 2005, 06:28 PM)
X3 Config Live Build 2666
someone pwned the pic host!
anyone have a mirror?
QUOTE(basso4735 @ Feb 2 2005, 08:47 PM)
thats nice. i thought it wasnt a problem

lol. well, anywho, i hope they get it out soon so people can test it.
A bios has no chance of fixing the D0 problem. This is called lying and it's exactly what X3 team does best... wait no that's price gouging they do best then right behind that is lying. Keep it straight.
It's possible that the bios could update the CPLD and if I was lying and saying that we were fixing the CPLD with a bios update that is the method that might pass some scruntiny. They on the other hand decide to lie about going into the CPLD code via the I2C bus and it's a funny joke. You should tell them X3 guys that if they make up a whooper they should try to use some facts or otherwise try to make some sense.
Pretty much keep in mind anyone releasing a bios that updated their CPLD code would not be able to release the bios public since the end users would basicly have the CPLD JED file and could easily make their own clone.
QUOTE(hippo @ Feb 5 2005, 04:19 AM)
A bios has no chance of fixing the D0 problem. This is called lying and it's exactly what X3 team does best... wait no that's price gouging they do best then right behind that is lying. Keep it straight.
In either case.. i doubt that the X2 will get this fix.
WHy??
Well think about it.. it uses an actual switch to control the D0.
So so matter what bios you put on there.. its always gona be the same
Whether the D0/Lframe problem is fixed with the X3 remains to be seen... and until the new bios for the X3 is released.. we won't know.
I think it would be possible for them to fix this with the new X3 bios update.
not 100% tho
jROC
QUOTE
The xecuter bioses; are encrypted so they could include the code to fix the problem. And you know if it doesnt fix the problem it will be on the bug report and peopel will bitch In this case I dont think they would announce it if it wasnt true there x3 bios is their. In team x's they never said that the lframe low didnt affect there chip they said that the held low lframe wasnt anythign to worry about
So you are from the X3 team and you are saying that the bios update will flash the CPLD and fix the D0 signal on the CPLD? First off it will be so long before they ACTUALLY release their bios you will have forgotten about the features they promised.
The fact the bios is encrypted means nothing quit talking nonsense.
QUOTE(hippo @ Feb 6 2005, 03:08 PM)
So you are from the X3 team and you are saying that the bios update will flash the CPLD and fix the D0 signal on the CPLD? First off it will be so long before they ACTUALLY release their bios you will have forgotten about the features they promised.
well does anyone know where the diagram went so we can fix it via hardware?
QUOTE
They both do fucked up stuff. But the fact remains that xecuter can fix this problem via a software update. NO OTHER CHIP MANUFACTURER CAN. And the fact that the bios is encrypted does mean something so. Now rather it will fix it or not I dont know but being its a touchy issue. Im sure it will be. As usuall there will be 2-3 versions of the x3 bios 1.0-1.5 then 1.6/1.6b
Over there at X3 team they hook the sucker fish then they just play them as they reel them in. Hows that hook taste you bit on?
the bios is out...I dont have my eqipment here to test calling jroc or some one.
bah. I kinda figured. posting to the bug list. has any one tired that smart xxboard yet
I TOLD YOU SO!
QUOTE(hippo @ Feb 8 2005, 01:19 PM)
I TOLD YOU SO!
Does anybody have a pic of the completed mod. I want to be possitive that I cut and solder in the right places.
Also, what are you guys using to cut the trace?
I just used a exacto blade
QUOTE(FoxRacR17 @ Feb 9 2005, 12:38 AM)
I just used a exacto blade
Just FYI:
The summary/mirror of this thread is updated with latest finding of new Xecuter BIOS.
http://xbox.bula.nu/...install_1.6.asp
QUOTE(Bulan @ Feb 9 2005, 02:12 AM)
Just FYI:
QUOTE(hippo @ Feb 4 2005, 10:19 PM)
A bios has no chance of fixing the D0 problem. This is called lying and it's exactly what X3 team does best... wait no that's price gouging they do best then right behind that is lying. Keep it straight.
the problem we have is soft reboot is forcing the mod to disable the mod each time (as our bios communicates with the CPLD to release d0 / lframe from ground) we are looking into it further. we also fixed some other bugs today (game save cert key bug and custom partition table fix)
QUOTE(zikronix @ Feb 8 2005, 08:04 AM)
QUOTE(Xecuter @ Feb 9 2005, 03:11 PM)
oh come on why the hell would it be a lie - i get sick of comments like this freind - we work hard on this stuff and deliver every single time you can test yourself that d0/
lframe gets released by the bios right now ( Boot X3 Disabled hack in X3 Config Live Menu)
QUOTE
this is hilarious
1) of course we can control d0 / lframe with our bios/ X3 has always had d0/lframe control via software (note the option to reboot xbox with X3 disabled in the menu ??)
2) going into the cpld via the i2c bus is a funny joke ? i dont get you ? the cpld completely controls the x3's i2c bus - of course it does or else how would it work ?
3) the bios updating the cpld ??
are you high ? lol
No I'm not HIGH I'm the mod chip designer that ACTUALLY HAS this
W O R K I N G !
You need to quit the jibba jabber.
You'll never fix this through the I2c bus it doesn't matter. How did I know BEFORE the bios was released it wasn't fixed? I wrote chips to control the xbox I2C bus aswell.
This thread isn't for your tall tales it's for independants to post their findings and accomplishments and you should start a new thread instead of posting 3 posts in a row in this one. You can name your new thread 'why we didn't do what we said we did' because that's what people are asking.
QUOTE(hippo @ Feb 9 2005, 07:12 PM)
No I'm not HIGH I'm the mod chip designer that ACTUALLY HAS this
QUOTE
No I'm not HIGH I'm the mod chip designer that ACTUALLY HAS this
W O R K I N G !
You need to quit the jibba jabber.
You'll never fix this through the I2c bus it doesn't matter. How did I know BEFORE the bios was released it wasn't fixed? I wrote chips to control the xbox I2C bus aswell.
This thread isn't for your tall tales it's for independants to post their findings and accomplishments and you should start a new thread instead of posting 3 posts in a row in this one. You can name your new thread 'why we didn't do what we said we did' because that's what people are asking.
what modchips did you exactly write? and what did you do on the i2c bus? do you even know what the i2c bus is? how do you figure that the x3 cpld can't control the d0 and the i2c bus? can you explain to me how you can reboot with the modchip disabled via software only if there is no cpld code to control d0?
QUOTE
what modchips did you exactly write? and what did you do on the i2c bus? do you even know what the i2c bus is?
You are going to look oh so silly if Hippo even bothers appeasing you with a reply.
You question him yet you obviously know nothing of him or his work or the modchips he has designed including a brand new one out any day. Believe me it has features that all the others don't.
You have been a member here a while I am surprised by you child like response. Do some research on the guy and what he has achieved before you question him, you will wish you had when you know the facts.
Biggest fact is Hippo knows exactly what he is on about and certainly has the knowledge and design experience on all this to back it up.
BILLY MUST HAVE THE CIRCUITS UNDER LOCK & KEY . There would usualy be something around by now . Any circuits of main board , power supplys , even the chips would be good. Cross your fingers. cheers henno.
New poll up check it out.
http://www.teamxecut...ead.php?t=25455
QUOTE(zikronix @ Feb 9 2005, 05:55 PM)
xecuter dont get me wrong I will never buy another chip but yours. Im tired of getting flamed about saying trust teamxecuter when things get delayed. I really dont mean to call you a liar and Im sorry for that. I do trust that you fixed it but are having some issues.
QUOTE(ModdingManiac @ Feb 10 2005, 12:53 AM)
You are so far up Xecuter's Ass we will need the jaws of life to get you out. Damn Ass kisser...
QUOTE(zikronix @ Feb 10 2005, 01:04 AM)
Nope not an ass kisser. I just reconize good hardware when I see it. Yea they may be a little rough around the edges, they may not meet all delievery dates, they also may not have the best customer service. But there is a reason why they have sold more chips than any one. There is a reason why they delay things. There is a reason why the most used bios is an xecuter bios. Why beucase they deliver the power the performance and the addons.
yeah, original xenochip xt chips (not clones) usually run my store $5 to 7 in bulk and are great reliable chips. for the customer that wants to be the king of showing off at the halo 2 lan, they usually opt for the x3, but for most people, the xenochips do the job well.
i personally prefer the x3 and think it's worth the money 100%. mainly because of the addons that team x offers (x3cp, x3 pro switch, x3lcd, etc.)
back to the discussion:
how did the smartxx team make the resistors on the rebuild board work without cutting the lframe trace on top? that would be a great thing to be able to do for someone that doesn't have a smartxx rebuild board, then installs could be undone much more easily if needed. i personally don't own one of their rebuild boards, so I cant help with it, but we may want to follow it so there's no more cut traces on our boxes.
QUOTE(modifications15 @ Feb 10 2005, 02:15 AM)
I have a V1.6 and I got a X-Ecuter 3 CE will it have that same problem
QUOTE
I tend to fly below radar. When I design something I tend to post in the forums that's most related and ignore posting any press releases to main news page here. If you dont subscribe to those forums you've never heard of me. If I did post news releases in the main news area it wouldn't be about topics related to me openly sobbing about being called a liar or posts about the ever widening spiral of their own insignificance.
I go out of my way not to specifically spam my products or accomplishments too much. My upcoming Sunday Chip is 020A based chip geared for installers available in singles for $12 and cheaper in bulk. For an additinal $12 the chip has an IR remote add on compat with Sony IR remote protocols. Previous design was clevermods advance 32 and was 020 based cheapmod. Before that the clevermod original again 020 based.
The I2c project involved a pic that could restore a serial eeprom to the Xbox that was dead from an eeprom image hard coded into the pic chip. Eventualy ( like next up) this will be a chip that reads an eeprom into it's nv ram from a dead motherboard and then writes it to another eeprom possibly enroute to revivng a locked hard drive.
Another project was the Sony IR remote part that's now part of the Sunday chip that has learning and 3 button funtions so you can without touching your Xbox:
1. turn on with out mod
2. turn on with mod
3. eject tray (if used to power on mod is on)
Enough about me let's get back to the topic .
Boy, is it just me or was that a pretty tough spot to solder? At one point I was afraid that I was going to mess up some neighboring traces or melt something. I consider myself a pretty good solderer, but It was hard getting the solder to flow down in there. Plus I have a nice industrial Weller soldeing station, and I was using a very fine point tip. I don't think that spot was really meant to ever be soldered. The trace was easy to cut with a razor blade. I cut it in 2 places just to be sure, and then checked it with my Fluke meter. Then I put everything back together and my X3 fired right up, as usual. I guess I did it right.
This picture is a little blurry (shoulda used my tripod), and the orange silicone is a little ugly, but who cares. BTW, I had to use a 1/4 watt resistor from Radio Shack. Kinda bulky, but it works.
ok lets figure this out
what the hell is wrong with you...this clearly does not belong in this forum and especially not in this damn thread. maybe you should try the software forum or the support forums for your build of linux. Please dont bother replying as this thread is a heated discussion thread regarding a very sensitive issue. That has nothing in the slightest to do with what your experiencing...I hate to be a dick but you have clearly violated the forum rules
jonarvid
haha.. so funny..so i guess you just go around believing everything someone tells you .
i've been thru this kinda thing with xecuter before.. the old X3 chips used to short out due to the 5v alt pin and poor backing on the chip... "There's no problem " Xecuter said.. well its funny how they changed all the connectors on the X3 CE version to lay flat..so that things can't short out...and have given you a thinker pad now.
Do you honestly think Xecuter would admit it anyways...hell no....then no one buys their chips.
people have a right to be concerned about all the cash they've thrown into a modded xbox console. especially when all you can buy now is a V1.6
prices in CAD
console.. $250 minimum
modchip - $80 - $120 professionally installed
HD - 80gb $90 or so., 200gb.. $175 or so (if the console dies and the HD is locked... it becomes useless..)
add it up...and if people have the X3 then you have things like the proswitch $30, XLCD $50
i agree its good that xecuter is trying to solve the problem.but they have clearly mislead their users with the new bios...
" - fixed: Corrected LFRAME / D0 pull to 0V timing so it's no longer constant"
wtf is that supposed to mean anyways xecuter??? I have clearly measued the D0 and its still LOW..ALL THE TIME..Except when the chip is disabled.
jROC
agree. it's just as likely that the mod chip is doing something else that noone has yet to realize that would cause ealrier than expected death to xboxes. noone has commented yet, but it seems that the power disspiated by the lframe is low; it if twas driving 65 ma at 3.3 volts i would be more worried that having it drive 65 ma at what appears to be much less than 1 volt.
Question for the Guru's: Why couldn't you just put a physical switch in between the Xeceuter chip and the D0 point on the motherboard and have it closed on booting the chip and then open the switch once the chip has been booted? wouldn't this bring lframe back up to 3.3 volts?
after playing the game you could close the switch again and go back to the dashboard.
just my thinking; probably not worth much.
burgan
hey burgan
i've tried that actually.
not only does the D0 need to be low to boot the chip
but it also needs to be low to boot a game as well
after a game is booted for example.. you might be able to bring D0 to 3.3V but i'm not sure
and i'm not sure about booting apps.. if the d0 is 3.3V
jROC
jroc,
thanks. that doesn't surprise me that D0 would nee dto be low when booting a game or even an app.
if you get a chance could you trying releasing it from ground during a game? and then telling us what happens? i am speaking of a X3 chip with 1959 or latest bios.
for me it wouldn't be bad to keep D0 at ground while i am jockeying around in my bios or even in some apps; the bulk of my time is in playing games.
i could envision putting a new wire in from the D0,LAN, and HDD wires and having the D0 line go to a switch. then redirct the wire backto the X3 chip. no soldering required and probably just a 50 cent switch from rat shack. no big deal in flipping a switch from time to time.
thanks,
Jeff
This is labeled General Hardware/Technical Chat, isn't it?
I couldn't find any other thread that could help me
--James
your right that is the the name of the fourm
there is also this forum
http://forums.xbox-s...hp?showforum=22
Titled
*nix OS on Xbox
Anything about running a *nix-based OS on Xbox (mandrake , debian , gentoox , ...)
And this one
Xbox Homebrew Software
Discussions about xbox homebrew software that doesn't belong in any forum above.
This is HARDWARE TECHNICAL CHAT. You Question has nothing to do with that. And has ABSOLUTLY 1000% nothing to do with this thread.
Why would you post a question burried in a thread thats 30+ pages long that is unrealted to the problem your having not to mention in the incorrect forum. Doesnt sound like a logical way tp get a fucking answer does it....I didnt think so
READ THE RULES...POST IN THE CORRECT FORUM...OR YOU WILL BE BANNED....THIS IS JUST A WARNING.
Only Your 2nd post and both are in an incorrect forum in an unrealted thread. You talke the fat way to a quick death if you keep it up. And Im being NICE
QUOTE
READ THE RULES...POST IN THE CORRECT FORUM...OR YOU WILL BE BANNED....THIS IS JUST A WARNING.
Since when was it your job to threaten people with a ban. I suggest you also read the rules.
up to the top
QUOTE(pb2themax @ Feb 28 2005, 07:43 PM)
I'm glad the X3 CE LPC board has a little window cut in it, right where you need to solder the resistor.
QUOTE(mcpeepants @ Mar 3 2005, 05:28 PM)
The opening in the pcb board allows you to solder a resistor like in the diagram. I just assumed the pcb covered the necessary vias from just looking at the diagram and remembering where the board was, but it doesn't.
QUOTE(jonarvid @ Mar 4 2005, 03:41 PM)
That issue probably just needs some more testing before it can be released. They said they had just about fixed it two versions ago, but that it had interfered with some other issues. A little ironing out, and the D0/LFRAME fix will be released, I think.
QUOTE
yet they are working on doing what the pessimistic types want even if it most likely is not needed.
The findings here have nothing whatsoever to do with being pessimistic.
I just love the way you suck up to Team Xecuter though.
If its not needed then why would Team xecuter even acknowledge it let alone fix it.
Just to remind in case you have lost the point of the whole thread way back. This is an advisory fix based on current measurements its not some Doom and Gloom prophecy brought about by a pessimistic view to fitting modchip in the Xbox nor is it a debate or guessing game on whether Xecuter will fix it if they do they do just wait and see .
Applied fix exactly as before, but upon testing after chip installation, the machine proceeded to frag when the chip was disabled. When the chip is active no problems, chip off - FRAG.
First thought, was that the 680 ohm resistor was killing to much current and preventing the MS bios from loading. To test this theory i removed the resistor and simply bridged the 2 points with some kynar wire to restore the circuit ( sans resistor ). Unfortunately, the fragging persists. I have tested the circiut with a multimeter and it closed, therefore the wire is indeed bridging the 2 points on the track that is cut. I have gone over the MB with a fine tooth comb and can find absolutely no damage other than the cut track, which is a part of this fix. And yes, I am absolutely certain I cut the correct track.
I am at a loss to explain this. The machine behaves the way it should if that track is damaged ( fragging due to failure to load MS bios), despite the fact that it has been rebuilt. If i had inadvertantly done any other damage to the MB, I question very much that its effect would be precisely that which results from cutting that specific circuit.
I am an experienced installer, and know how to treat an exposed MB. There are no solder splashes, since the machine functions perfectly when the chip is active ( and there are no solder points anywhere near the bios chip)
The only plausible causes in my opinion are as follows. The signal coming out of the rebuilt circuit is a bit noisy and disrupting the xbox's ability to load the MS bios ( I am leaning in this direction). Or, some damage that cant be seen ( at least by my eyes ) occured to the area around the cut track, or on the opposite side of the MB from where the track was cut. In my opinion I did not cut anywhere deep enough to damage the other side of the MB, but unfortunately that is something that can neither be proven or ruled out conclusively.
I tested the rebuilt circuit without the chip installed and still experienced fragging. The bottom line is I now have a customer who will never be able to play online with his xbox, since it will never again function with the chip deactivated ( fortunately he has no plans to and was not concerned about the situation).
I, however, am very concerned. I am perfectly willing to admit when I screw up. I am also very good at dealing with anything I do screw up. In my opinion I did everything properly. In all my time installing this is the first problem caused by me I have not been able to repair. The fact is I can't repair it if I don't know what the problem actually is.
As of now I am passing on doing this fix anymore. At least until somebody can give me a plausible explanation for this behaviour. It is very hard to avoid a problem again if you cannot pinpoint its cause. And as of now there is still no real proof it is even necessary.
Any thoughts are appreciated. Keep in mind I am not an electrical engineer, so keep any explanations as dummy-proof as possible ( and forgive me if my noisy signal theory is bollocks ).
I would have to say that this is a fix that may be as dangerous to do as to not, since we don't really have more than theory saying not doing it is bad. I'm quite sure there are more people with screwed up xboxes after attempting to do this fix than there are people with broken xboxes because of the "problem".
One question though, will the length of time using a modded 1.6 without this fix influence the lifetime of the xbox? Will someone who performs this fix a year after modding the xbox still have a chance of the xbox blowing up, or is the box safe once the extra mod is performed?
QUOTE(zikronix @ Mar 4 2005, 11:28 PM)
They also said that the would be making a rebuild board.
QUOTE(Chancer @ Mar 5 2005, 10:17 AM)
The findings here have nothing whatsoever to do with being pessimistic.
Team Xecuter has deleted all topics concerning this issue on their forums.
Dunno what that means.
i think that is the second time!
Third time actually.
Oh well information has a way of getting free and everyone finding out anyway.
QUOTE(harrykewell @ Mar 10 2005, 01:47 PM)
Team Xecuter has deleted all topics concerning this issue on their forums.
QUOTE(noitall @ Mar 6 2005, 01:27 AM)
I'm glad I read this post, but at the same time I felt alot better before I did. Regardless, I've been unable to link to the diagram. If at all possible could you maybe send a copy?
[email protected] Thanks
ttt for anyone who hasnt seen
There no guess work when the data sheet of the CPLD says don't ground out more the 50ma with a single pal block of this chip when we are clearly grounding out 72ma. You're right though it's much easier to ignore the problem then directly deal with it.
QUOTE
until something is for sure. & not guess work.!
The measurements and findings are certainly not guess work. Alright the long term effects are unknown but the actual theory has been checked out and backed up with measurements.
The zero amount of problems then would not include this one from a previous post I read
QUOTE
Can anyone send a link or some info on the fault with the v1.6 board re the mmbt3906 transistor . Can't seem to find it. sounds like what i have here
If the heaps of 1.6 boxes you have modded over the last year do start to give problems remember what you said and don't come bleating about here will you?
Just an extra chancer, the mmbt3906 on the 1.6 had no mod on board!
QUOTE
Have there been lots of boxs being returned due to this problem.? (NO)
You can not speak for all modded 1.6 boxes out there so I will disregard that.You don't even know how many of your modded boxes have packed in, namely the customer who had his box modded 6 months ago but does not return it when it goes wrong. If abox lasts above a few months the owner would not associate failure with the chip install anyway so may just replace or have the box fixed elsewhere (unless you give a 2 year no quibble warranty)
It does not matter to me what you do with your mods is your problem your descision. But to call this "Guess Work" shows your lack of understanding of how this has been checked.
The point about doing the mod causing damage does not hold water either. How many people wreck their boxes fitting the mod ?? Cutting the trace and installing the resistor is no more difficult than doing the LPC rebuild and mod anyway in fact when installing it takes an extra 30 seconds to do for a competent installer. the people who damage the box cutting should not be doing it anyway, besides which who are all these people do they PM you and tell you how they damaged there Xbox doing this??... didn't think so. So that is also pure speculation by you.
Hippo is right its easier for you to ignore the possibility but i hope this is not the last post in here if only to give people some info on this. This measure just to re-iterate is discretionary and only advisory no one is saying you have to hack your box to bits.
i have seen 1 box's standby transistor go after modding & heard of 2 other cases..I'm not sure if that is the point of this thread but the 1.6 problems are real
That is not true. I had a 1.6 with a SmartXX ver2 chip & PCB rebuild, it worked fine with no chip...even with Live!
I blew the board though, moving it to an older case & didnt know to remove the metal tab near the video port :-(
[
QUOTE
I was as careful as i could ever be when doing the mod,
Sorry my friend but if you damaged something doing it then you are not as careful as you think. As well as carrying out htis suggestion on on many many boxes no damage I have to day in and day out perform Manufacturers Modifications on a huge range of equipment and many include cutting various print tracks (Traces) and have never damaged one.
I have no doubt you understand very well how to install modchips and would not doubt it but the fact is you messed up so you have found out what your limitations are. This is not down to the Trace cutting being difficult because I do not consider it is but different people have different skill levels and if I felt I could not easily and safely without damage do something then I would not attempt it.
Sorry but the failing here is yours not the advice. You could advise people to change a plug but some people would not be able to do it its horses for courses
QUOTE
you don't know customers very well do you. ?
That is correct because once their box is correctly modded I don't see them again
QUOTE
If I installed a x2.6 and a x2.3 pro on the v1.6 xbox would I still have to do this?
The decision to do it or not is up to you. If you are confident you can do it and are well versed in working with small PCB traces then it will reduce the current.
If you are unsure of doing it then don't.
QUOTE(kimvets @ Mar 17 2005, 01:47 AM)
Bottom line is you are damaging your MB performing this mod.

QUOTE
Would this work for this mod?
Yes it is the right value but it is very large for the space it has to fit in. You could always wire it in with kynar on each leg insulated with heatshrink
QUOTE
this is all BS... dont waste your time on this people
Which just goes to show how clueless you are
didnt M$ stop production of this version due to "unknown problems"
The fact they used cheapo parts is enough to make me avoid the 1.6
This thread is rediculous, 38 pages of the same stuff repeated. I understand most people dont want to read 38 pages, but it would only be about 10 pages if people actually did read
QUOTE(Chancer @ Dec 3 2004, 11:17 PM)
came about. If you are an electrical engineer (specialising in what by the way? its a very broad description) you would not have had to question why drawing 3 or 4 times more current through something (like an LS7805V regulator) than its designed maximum rating would result in pre-mature failure.
THIS IS A BEAUTY!
During this thread, as above you have given a hard time to anybody who has has any problem whith this mod. some of these people have probly forgotten more than you know about electronics.!!!!!
most 5 volt regulators have internal voltage protection , current protection & trhermal overload protection. . i know first year aprentice who could shoot you down in flames . don't keep trying to justify yourself with this mod as you are looking like a fool.
this mod & all the measurements , & theorys are based on a chip that you don't have the specs on& don't know the internal characteristics of that particular i.c.
give up.
i would'nt employ you as an apprentice!.
(by the way, how did you become a moderator? ...i hope the others read how you treat your guests. !!!)
QUOTE
most 5 volt regulators have internal voltage protection , current protection & trhermal overload protection. . i know first year aprentice who could shoot you down in flames . don't keep trying to justify yourself with this mod as you are looking like a fool.
I am not sure if this was aimed at me but I shall answer it anyway.
You have just proved yourself to be completely ignorant as to how anything electrical works.
Before you start spouting your bullshit. If you really do believe that a 5volt regulator has its own built in overload protection that will do enough to save the device then you really are making a fool of yourselfand you have just looked up the data sheet in google. You do not know how these behave in practice. Buy some and short circuit one in circuit and see how its protection works. Draw 5 amps through one and see how good it runs when its nearly melting believe me it will fail.. I repair power supplys with mass destruction of components yet the fuse which is supposed to protect the PSU is sat there perfectly fine. If you believe as gospel everything you read on a piece of paper the fuse would have gone. Yes I ahve looked at the circuit diagram... hmm should work like it says but it doesn't. You have no real world experience of working on this sort of thing as you would realise jsut how components behave in everyday use and what happens under stress conditions
If thats the case then none of these devices would ever fail, hell we could build in protection circuits straight into every device , no need to worry about building circuits specially for overload protection in to electronics stuff. You really are out of your depth here. Do you actually know my qualifications, do you know what job I have done from the age of 16 to 42, obviously not. Do you work on electronic equipment repairing it day in day out NO
Do you see the amount of 5v regulators (the ones with your cocked up built in protection) I have to replace in a week NO
If you want to pit your electronics knowledge against mine then go ahead. I won't need Google to back me up.
I was asked to be a mod I didn't volunteer and the people here are not my guests,I am just a member of this forum like anyone else and what has that to do with anything any way. If you have a complaint about me then you need to inform a Head Mod or one of the Admin I never censor anyones opinion and as you have spouted yours I can spout mine.
Anyway tell me what would happen (I will make this a real easy device for you find on search engines) if a BU508A designed for a maximum current of 8 amps was passing say 10 Amps due to an increase in the drive frequency to the base. Oh and these have supposed protection inbuilt as well. (My workshops bins are full them) If you are stuck I will give you the multiple choice questions next.
QUOTE
all the measurements , & theorys are based on a chip that you don't have the specs on& don't know the internal characteristics of that particular i.c.
You obviously can not read either from what you said above read this
QUOTE
data sheet of the CPLD says don't ground out more the 50ma with a single pal block of this chip when we are clearly grounding out 72ma.
EDIT
I thought you wanted this thread to die looking back at it.
now now.. people be nice.
grow up !!
UPDATE - I still have not seen a dead v1.6 box due to this issue.
jROC
QUOTE(Chancer @ Mar 20 2005, 02:45 PM)
QUOTE
as for bull shit where did you get your qualifications from.
Well as you asked I served a 5 year apprenticeship. I ahve a City and Guilds 224 in electronics servicing. I have an HNC in Digital electronics. I worked till the age of 26 for National repair Company as Senior Technician for Clayton Woods Area At 26 i started my own business. I have service agencies (accreditted) including warranty repairs for Philips, Panasonic, Samsung and LG. I still own my own company reapiring TV VCR DVD Sat.
So Henno I would like to thank you for your interset in my qualifications and i hope you don't mind too much that I did not post references of people from here some of whom have brought equipment directly to the workshop for repair
So I suggest you stick to waht your best at do a google search on no hope bullshit merchant and see how many times your name appears.
carrying on with this is pointless as I know what i know and don't have to submit any proof to you so you go into the ignore list.
have a nice life loser
Well...there is no xbox dead with cheapmod installed....so cutting the trace is not that bad...
I think is better to give more tips for cutting the trace than discuss the same thing all the time..
The trace gets cut very easy...is not a matter of force...just with the smallest pressure, gets the job done...i think the trace is deeper...but not..is very thin...
thanks for your creds ( once again).
my ePenis is bigger than yours
QUOTE
they have not been used new equipment for many years.
That single statement tells me all I need to know. You just lied about about what you do and know. Enjoy your day at school
I apologise to all others who have followed this last bit and will stick to the topic now.
I would just re-iterate that this mod is not one I am trying to force people to make its obviously down to individual choice. I just believe the topic starter has a valid point here, SmartXX obviously thought so and Hippos new Sunday flash chips avoid the trace cutting and resistor mod at all, as up to now its the only chip with the features built in to avoid any possible issues if indeed any arise.
QUOTE(mcpeepants @ Mar 21 2005, 09:03 PM)
has anyone tested smartxx's "fix" for this or tested the sunday chip for that matter?
QUOTE(mcpeepants @ Mar 21 2005, 03:03 PM)
has anyone tested smartxx's "fix" for this or tested the sunday chip for that matter?
i think the reasoning behind that is becuase smartxx being the asses they are wont sell the rebuild board by its self you would have to buy the mod and im not doing that...
QUOTE(catdog2 @ Nov 12 2004, 10:28 PM)
For those interested, I measured 62mA and 68mA on two different 1.6 xboxs
IF this ^^^ is true then there is something to it
the mcpx is constructed with sub micron silicon
and 60 ma is way to much current for it to last a normal life...
maybe 2 years or less instead of 10 or more...
wow....... i remeber when i first saw this thread....... this old and people are still posting........
QUOTE(mcpeepants @ Mar 29 2005, 08:59 PM)
Smartxx added a resistor and transistor in series (I think?) to their 1.6 lpc rebuild board, as a fix to this problem. But, I haven't seen any multimeter tests done using it or the Sunday chip like the test that had been done for x3, xenium ice, etc...
What are the outcome of this ???
1 What chip's / rebuilds solve this problem or does not have this problem
2 how many have done this and have no problem at all
3 how many have NOT done this and still dont have any problem ??
4 Are the best solution still to att a 680R 1/8W SMD (can i use 1/16W??)
and do it have to be ceramic, or can i use any Resistor ????
Ok, i had 4 BIG questions
QUOTE(mcpeepants @ Apr 2 2005, 09:30 PM)
Actually, that board they have for sale at extreme-mods.com is smartxx's 1.6B board. The 1.6C is the one with the "fix." It's blue I think.
yea they piss me off
Naw they're the greatest.
I only got two questions,
Is anyone here an EE ?
(More of a statement) Im sure at least 1 or 2 of the people posting here will by now have access to documentation from some sources that will provide them with the nessesary technical specs of the Xyclops and Nvidia MCPX rv2 used in the 1.6 and 1.6b xbox's to provide a sufficient and final answer to the original reason for these some 39 pages. Who's gonna post the results.
oooh i just remmebered, with regard to the pulsing of lframe/d0. Anyone who's done or understand how logic things work understand what PWM is ? if you do you can see where im going with this. Almost all cpld based modchips have lframe/d0 going directly into the cpld pin, or to gnd via a transistor....see if you can figure out what im thinking.
and anyone got an oscillescope to verify this "pulsing" by the modchips in the starting post ?
Im happy to see people actually worried about this, as it can possible be a real serios problem, and also investigating the matter. What i find somewhat...stupid if you can allow that word to be used very vaguely... that its spreading like a big PANIC to everyone. Which it should not be. But hey..keep up the RESEARCH.
bueler, bueler
I have documentation that says it's overloading the CPLD. I have documention that tells how multiple flashroms coexist on the LPC bus. I have documentation on the process used to manufacture the mcpx and it isn't intended for these loads for longer than 1 second. I'm not an EE but I have an association with a game shop and do repairs and the repairs I can't fix I blame on the mcpx. It is considered the most sensitive chip and is often modded with thermal protection systems 'just because'. Catdog has provided a solution, Sunday chip has provided a solution, and SmartXX has adressed this aswell. Since the signal I designed for Sunday chip is a unique solution in that it works for all Xboxes it's safe to assume there were always alternative methods that work well just waiting to be discovered.
All I know is you can make 16 SST49LF020A's load a 4mb bios without gounding anything out so why are mod chip makers grounding out the other flashrom when there is just 2 flashroms on the LPC bus?
Everyone that doesn't go this is overloading their mod chip's CPLD pin by 50%. Obviously you could buy a new car, drive it 90 mph everywhere you go, even if it's just down the street for a pack of smokes and say it's not hard on the car at all, the car is still running fine. When the car dies the mechanic won't know to ask 'hey Mr, you didnt drive this 90 everywhere did you?' and he's not going to know why the car is dead.
Just like no one can tell you why the standby power transistors blow on the 1.6 after a mod attempt. No one knows why it's dead.
QUOTE(hippo @ May 10 2005, 09:10 PM)
All I know is you can make 16 SST49LF020A's load a 4mb bios without gounding anything out so why are mod chip makers grounding out the other flashrom when there is just 2 flashroms on the LPC bus?
QUOTE
So far, I've never heard of an Xbox having a premature death because of this problem
yes but most people would not know when their box went faulty what was the original cause of it. Unless someone who's box fails has the equipment or technical expertise to diagnose the cause, most problems (without a specific human cause i.e hacking at print or crap soldering) go unsolved
QUOTE
If you drive a car around all the time at 90 mph it WILL definitely "die" early.
Thats not hard fact either pure specualtion. Mine still drives ok
Try searching for the T2 transistor problem. I've had to repair one xbox that failed to boot. No lights.. No frags..No errors..
After replacing the one cheap little part his xbox was working again.
Jroc
QUOTE
oooh i just remmebered, with regard to the pulsing of lframe/d0. Anyone who's done or understand how logic things work understand what PWM is ? if you do you can see where im going with this. Almost all cpld based modchips have lframe/d0 going directly into the cpld pin, or to gnd via a transistor....see if you can figure out what im thinking.
I can't there is already established methods of having several clients on the LPC bus and none of them involve pwm's. You can load a 4mb bios from 16 SST 49LF020A's, even though the SST is only 256k. See where I'm going?
quick question -- I apologize if it's been answered before, but I really don't have the time to read through 40 pages for this:
I have an x3, and if I add the resistor, and team xecuter updates the x3 bios and fixes their chip so the resistor is not needed, is the resistor going to cause problems for my xbox?
TIA
-UnSaniTiZ
QUOTE(UnSaniTiZ @ May 24 2005, 10:18 PM)
I have an x3, and if I add the resistor, and team xecuter updates the x3 bios and fixes their chip so the resistor is not needed, is the resistor going to cause problems for my xbox?
No, none at all
Sorry to bump but just wodering if this is still a problem and if there has been any evidence to support it.
so all you have to do is cut the trace at the chip, and add a resistor,
is one of the resistor points the D0 is this diagram http://www.duomodchi..._white_v1.6.jpg
The first mod chip to handle this problem without boards is HERE
great product hippo, but a small correction. The first modchip to handle that is here (x-changer)
well.. atleast they state so..
nice product though!
/pablot
QUOTE
great product hippo, but a small correction. The first modchip to handle that is here (x-changer)
Saturday chip had this 6 months ago.
Ya it's an easy out for them working on the problem they never acknowledge exsited then saying oh it's untested but when the kernel needs lframe it'll be back, but the kernel has nothing to do with lframe at all and is the dead give away they are lying.
Why lie? people are going to test it after they release the saying the problem is fixed. I reckon they can't do it, so they stall....
dont tell them I said that
This makes it look like they are working on it when they already know their method is unfeasable. Note I didn't say impossible. Working on things until they are releasable is a normal thing in the scene but they have to be putting on a show on this one.
Let's pretend we don't care. haha 'pretend'...
has any one even bothered attempting to test it. If you can get it to work?
I think from reading the bug reports and stuff that they are working on a way to do this as they are having some expected problems they would only know of if they tried. So you have to hand it to them that at least they gave it a go.
Their problem is that they are basicly trying to remove tonsils by going in up the anus. If they would switch ends they'd have a better go of it. I suspect they are doing something that takes some advance notice to release from or enable Lframe and they wont find such triggers I DONT THINK they will find something to accomedate their lead time on everthing.
well theyve banned me from there forums. I had to create a new account...Fucking Children I tell you Children
yep i re registered to see the fourms i couldnt see and found as usual they deleted my post. how nice of them
my xbox 1.6 has blown up. i have posted on team xecuter's website and they keep DELETING MY POSTS!!!!1 This is a cover up and they DO NOT want the info getting out about their chips. The first chip i got was infact DOA and i got no help for a replacement. I BOUGHT a new chip and it worked fine. Now the box is DEAD. I can't believe this. They have cost me 2 modchips and now a perfectly fine xbox!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111
SOMEONE SHOULD POST SOMETHING ON THE MAIN SITE ABOUT TEAMXECUTER AND HOW THEY ARE SCREWING THEIR CUSTOMERS!!!!!!!!!!111
also someone should post something about this v1.6 problem!!!
anyone can contact me at [email protected]
have you posted this on the xecuter section on this forum? If he deletes your post here aswell, then you have soemthing to complain about to the site admin. Also, if he can't delete your post, mention that they did so on their forums aswell.
So is it true that the duox2 (white) pulses the lframe and i do not have to install the resitor on a 1.6 when using the duox2? Or should i install it just to be safe?
i spent like 1 hour reading this post and every link i see that shows the resistor fix and added does not work it the pic it pulls up does not show a resistor added?
can someone post or send me a link that shows this fix thanks.
just 1 last thing i see a few different resistors to use does it have to be the flate resistor or a normal carbon one will work and whats the specks on the resistor i need to use.
thanks for all your help
I'm sure its your power transistor chip blew on you, i do sell them pm me and we can talk.
You may just have to swap the 2T resistor with a 2A. You will need to test for continuity.
if you have a multimeter, check the resistors on the motherboard around the video port. If most dont have continuity, then its time for a new mobo.
Did you swap the case recently? If so, check out this link on my site http://www.paintedxbox.com/save1.6.htm
If you have a reading on the 2T resistor thats not the problem.....
Does this apply to the XBIT 1.5 on a 1.6 wire install?
Yes on Xbit.
ok, well i got a new xbox and installed the resistor. Everything looks good and here's hoping that this will fix this box.
I haven't yet, and don't want to read through the 40 pages of replies, though I might if I can't get an answer soon enough. I did this fix a while ago for my 1.6, and the chip just stopped working now. I can't boot to chip bios. now pretty much I'm sure either my resistor has failed or my chip has failed, but I have no good way to test the resistor. So, if I cut the track to the LFRAME and don't put a resistor in, would my xbox be able to boot the original bios and not the chip bios, or neither the original nor the chip bios?
TIA
-UnSaniTiZ
The track should already be cut when you first did the mod Its not the resistor. If the resistor went it would go high in value same as the track just being open ciruit so the Mod chip would be active all the time.
Failure of the resistor in other words would stop the reatil bios working not the chip
Is there a problem with this and the xecuter 3ce?
Should I install the resistor? I have had my xbox since 04 and it hasent had a problem.. Will it? Thanxs in advance..
mstandlee
QUOTE(mcpeepants @ Mar 16 2006, 05:45 PM)

Bump, is this still an issue? It's been over a year, has anyone seen this problem that hasn't done the mod to their 1.6?

QUOTE(mstandlee @ Mar 17 2006, 05:26 AM)

Is there a problem with this and the xecuter 3ce?

Should I install the resistor? I have had my xbox since 04 and it hasent had a problem.. Will it? Thanxs in advance..
mstandlee
i, too, was just thinking about this thread a couple of days ago.
I was just curious on how many v1.6 mobo owners have had problems because they didn't do this mod.
Yes, I'm lazy, but 43 pages is a lot to reading...
I have 1.6 Xbox and I want to install X3 CE.
Two small questions:
1. Is this modification tested and worth to do?
2. After I cut a track, I solder LFRAME instead of D0 or not? ( http://xbox.bula.nu/...storinstall.jpg )
Bump