Post by: RDC on January 19, 2013, 03:04:00 AM
The second page in this thread has a post of the general run down of building one of these things, and you'll also find on several occasions I've posted no desire to make a full blown tutorial because of all of the different controller versions that can be used. This includes walking someone thru a build step by step by step by step as well because it's not really a beginner type of controller build.
You should use a Wired CL for the 'base board' because it's by far the easiest to trace out and see what goes where to rewire the Common Line of it into the PS3 controllers 3 COM line setup, and wiring the Sticks up is just a straight shot back to the PS3 controller's board.
Easier, but costs more, depending on how much the CL controller cost you, would be using the 36X board I designed awhile back for your 'base board' so there's no ruining a 360 board to use. http://forums.xbox-s...p?sho...w=&st=
The absolute easiest I can make it for you is to just build it for you, which comes with 2 things, a PS360 controller that works, and a lightening of your wallet. Which compared to the cost of the minimum of 2 controllers most people kill attempting this, plus the time/parts spent on it, plus the aggravation, you'd find it a lot better deal, but that's really only understood after the fact in most cases.
Post by: RDC on January 19, 2013, 10:30:00 PM
Post by: RDC on January 19, 2013, 11:34:00 PM
Post by: RDC on January 19, 2013, 11:42:00 PM
Post by: Aajaxx on January 20, 2013, 12:13:00 AM
Post by: RDC on January 20, 2013, 12:15:00 AM
Post by: Aajaxx on January 21, 2013, 07:29:00 PM
Post by: RDC on January 22, 2013, 12:14:00 AM
Post by: Aajaxx on January 30, 2013, 03:52:00 PM
COM1<PS>COM2 or do i have to have traces in between? which would give the better result?
Post by: RDC on January 30, 2013, 04:04:00 PM
V--Resistor--COM1
V--Resistor--COM2
Post by: Aajaxx on January 30, 2013, 04:09:00 PM
Post by: m3ntal on August 04, 2013, 11:34:00 PM
While looking into the benheck mod tonight I shuttered. The sixaxis might fit into the x360 case yet the feel is totally whack. I'm hoping to review your plans and reuse as much of the stock 360 controller as possible.
Thanks a lot!
(btw your pin outs where exceedingly helpful to find alt tp spots on a recent arcade stick mod; thanks a lot!)
*Edit*
Actually I think I found them right here: http://www.instructa...360-Controller/ (Thanks!)
Post by: RDC on August 05, 2013, 12:30:00 AM
I never posted that over there at Instructables, that's some moron's doing with no permission, and it's far from any kind of 'how-to' guide as it links to the incomplete Ben Heckendorn build method for wiring, which is far from how the one I made is. Even the one I made is far from how I make one now.
Post by: RDC on October 27, 2013, 11:32:00 AM
I designed the PS36X board up awhile back and had some made, but screwed up the keepout areas around the D-pad contacts, so the copper pour is a bit too close there, but this one is getting made with the PS3 D-pad, and the 36D PCB, so they're not going to get used anyway.
The PS36X board was designed around using the current versions of PS3 controllers that were out then, so it can be used with the 4 leg Hall sensor type Sticks, or the 3 leg type the Asuka and later versions use now, in which case the 360 Sticks can just be kept and used.
The 36D PCB is used in pace of the PS3 controller's Daughter board and all of the mess that goes along with installing that thing.
Old install method for PS3 D-pad - http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=655017
36D PCB - http://forums.xbox-s...774447062401500
This is pretty much everything wired up between the Asuka and the PS36X. It's far cleaner looking, uses a lot less wire and can be done a good deal faster.
Post by: RDC on May 30, 2008, 12:09:00 PM
Not to take anything at all from the one Ben Heckendorn did, but using tact switches for every button isn't my thing. This one uses the 360 controller's board (stripped of almost every component) as to use it's button's contacts, so it 'feels' like a 360 controller does, as far as pushing buttons goes you can't tell one from the other. I did the Duke360 and 360 S-controller the same way. It's a load more work on the one hand, but pays off big time when yer all done and the controller doesn't feel any different at all.
Since my first go at this Sony has gone and made serious revision changes to the SixAxis boards and the new DualShock 3 uses these new changes as well. See HERE if ya want more info on that. The Tilt sensor has been built onto the controller board now, so that issue had to be dealt with compared to the older boards that have that thing on a small daughterboard that could have been installed anywhere during this mod, so that means ya have to put the board in the 360 controller shell facing the same way or that will be all screwed up.
M$ as well has made revision changes to both of their controllers (Wired and Wireless) and the new Wired CL version board (I'm using a Wireless shell though) makes for doing this thing a good deal easier than how it was going before with the older style 360 board.
With the release of the DS3 I figured may as well use it since the straight up SixAxis just sux, plus the 360 shell has room for the motors anyway, so it all just made sense and more work, but if yer gonna do it may as well stuff it all in there.
Here's the thing so far, and yes I know it's a mess right now and it isn't going to get much better looking before it's all over with until it goes in the shell. The D-pad, Select, PS, Start, Square, Triangle, Circle, Cross, L1/R1 and L3/R3 buttons are all wired up right now and working, as are the LEDs for showing which controller it is.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360003-1.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360008.jpg)
All that's left to do are the L2/R2 buttons/Triggers, the Reset/Off button that's on the bottom of the controller and get the Sticks all wired up, then cram it all in the shell. Not that any of it's incredibly more difficult than what's been done on it already, just a lot more wiring to smaller spots than what one would think because of the new Sticks these things use.
Changing the buttons over to the PS3 ones isn't a huge priority right now, that's cosmetic, I'm just after the main things right now with this and that's something that will be done laster on.
Aside from this controller looking and feeling like any other 360 controller, it will also use the PnC cable that charges a 360 Wireless controller to charge this one. This lets me toss the Mini USB connector of the PS3 controller and not have to make that look all pretty mounted somewhere and use a cable that plugs into the 360 controller nicely already. The Sync button next to the PnC connector will be the Reset/Off button also.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360006.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360007-1.jpg)
This post has been edited by RDC: May 31 2008, 07:13 PM
Post by: SuDDeN on May 30, 2008, 02:04:00 PM
I rarely play my PS3 simply becuase the controllers SUK so bad.
Good Luck and if anyone can pull this off..... its you.
Post by: RDC on May 31, 2008, 08:48:00 AM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360011.jpg)
The shell right now is just bits and pieces from others until I get everything all sorted and see what needs to be cut and shaved where to fit everything, then I'll probably stuff it in a nice new black shell once that's all done. The LEDs are the actual Red ones form the DS3 controller, just look kinda orange in the pic.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360012.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360014.jpg)
The battery has been removed from it's casing so it fits in the battery holder. Then a AA battery pack has been cut up to allow it to still be removed when the battery needs replaced or to change the pack completely to something that fits a little better and maybe with more mAh, but for now the stock battery is fine.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360015.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360018.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360016.jpg)
All that's really left to do now are the buttons with the PS3 ones and something for the Guide/PS button, then tweak the Sticks some since they sit a tad low and that messes up the range they have. Then maybe mount the battery connector inside the bottom of the controller shell, but those are all finishing touches that I'll eventually get around to instead of harping on them now. Right now it's 100% functional and makes playing RFoM actually feel like a real FPS, even though it still looks like dung. After committing this heresy (to both controllers) I'm gonna see about stuffing a 360's Wired CL controller board into a DS3 shell now, to redeem myself in a sort of bass ackwards kinda way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
EDIT: The 3PS60 controller (Wired 360 controller in a PS3 shell) can be seen HERE if ya want to check it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
This post has been edited by RDC: Jul 19 2008, 07:20 PM
Post by: RDC on June 01, 2008, 08:46:00 AM
Still not sure what I'll do with the Guide/PS button just yet, even though it doesn't go half bad with the PS3 buttons. Ignore the headset connector in the below pic, I just have another board in there as a 'place holder' to keep the buttons and sticks in there for the picture, can't be using the actual PS360 board for such things as that's really unwanted wear and tear on the thing.
Post by: tense_lion on June 05, 2008, 09:45:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 06, 2008, 10:40:00 AM
QUOTE(tense_lion @ Jun 6 2008, 12:21 AM) 
wow dude that looks amazing. ive always wanted to do vice versa for my 360 (being a sony fan before grabbing the 360) cant wait to see the finishing touches and the ds3 shell conversion too.
Thanks. I think about all I'll do on this one though is stuff it in a nice new black shell and call it done. I'll never get the Guide/PS button done to my satisfaction, same with the DS3 shell I think, probably leave it the PS button so the only real distinguishable things are the face buttons, though a small 360 Guide and large PS logo set would look pretty nice.
Post by: Kamasutra318 on June 06, 2008, 04:15:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 07, 2008, 01:56:00 AM
QUOTE(Kamasutra318 @ Jun 6 2008, 06:51 PM)
Very nice work. It's unfortunate that you left the worst thing about the 360 controller (in my opinion anyway) -- its D-pad. Other than that and the PS button, it looks quite authentically PlayStation (disregarding the word "back" instead of "select").
Yep it is a retched D-pad, but this is after all a PS3 controller in a 360 shell and not a PS3 controller in a 360 shell plus the D-pad swapped over.
Plus it wouldn't matter if just the physical part of the D-pad were swapped or not, that's not where the problem with that thing is at.
Post by: Kamasutra318 on June 07, 2008, 04:09:00 AM
QUOTE(RDC @ Jun 7 2008, 04:32 AM) 
Yep it is a retched D-pad, but this is after all a PS3 controller in a 360 shell and not a PS3 controller in a 360 shell plus the D-pad swapped over. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Plus it wouldn't matter if just the physical part of the D-pad were swapped or not, that's not where the problem with that thing is at.
I guess this may be a bit off topic, but could you please elaborate on where problem is then?
Post by: Chancer on June 07, 2008, 05:10:00 AM
Post by: RDC on June 07, 2008, 06:08:00 AM
QUOTE(Kamasutra318 @ Jun 7 2008, 06:09 AM)
I guess this may be a bit off topic, but could you please elaborate on where problem is then?
Have a look HERE, just posted some info on it and in the correct forum to boot.
QUOTE(Chancer @ Jun 7 2008, 07:46 AM)
Top work on this once again. I may have to build one.
Thanks. If ya do build one, try and make yourself sacrifice one of the CL version Wired boards, it's sooooo much easier when it comes to rewiring the thing and I'm working on diagrams for that part as well.
You can really do it with any version of the 360 board though, just have a mess to rebuild is all. With the older Matrix style wireless ya get the added benefit of there being a ton of them that are dead and easy to pick up for practically nothing, plus it has the Sync button and PnC connector already there, so no gluing them in place, but the rebuild on it's a witch and a half. Also ya wouldn't want to use one of the CG version boards as it's all Common Ground, you'd spend all day isolating the button sets to conform to that 3 common line thing Sony uses.
Post by: RDC on June 10, 2008, 02:29:00 PM
I have the new shell this sucker is going in and just need to address some final issues and this one will be a done deal.
One issue is the height of the sticks, even though these newer version POTs that Sony uses are the exact same height as the 360 ones, for some reason it's a tad on the short side when it's all together. That leads to the problem of just barely being able to press in on the Stick button if ya have the stick at it's outer most edge because the bottom of the sticks top part wants to hit the shell. To raise the stick height some I could have lifted the POT slightly off the board, but I opted to increase the shaft length for several reasons, 1 There was no way in nutz I was pulling them off the board after getting this far in the process, just too much work there, 2 It forced me to come up with something else, which is part of the fun in it for me, 3 Because it also increases the sensitivity of the stick slightly since it's a little taller, 4 It eliminated that 'play' that ya might notice if ya just barely move the sticks and 5 Because who wouldn't want that?
The spacer is just the tip of another 360 analog stick while the metal pin there is actually a shaft from a 360 Rumble motor. The PS3 stick had to be drilled a little bit to make it fit properly, as did the Thumb Stick caps of the 360, but it's a pretty solid setup now. (NOTE: If the spacer is too thick you'll just end up hitting the 'skirt' on the stick cap on the inside of the shell and it's going to rub or not move at all)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360031.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360032.jpg)
All that's really left to do is put the Stick caps on a Lathe and turn them down some to get the full 'throw' (range the stick moves from center to outside edge) back. If that's not done when ya have the stick moved to it's outside edge ya may notice in some games it's moving slower than it used to or like ya don't have the stick pushed all the way in that direction when mechanically ya really do. When these sticks are in the PS3 shell they have a little more room to move around, in here they're slightly cramped up and don't quite have the full range of motion. The PS3 stick caps I had in there before I sort of wanted to keep, but I had to end up using them on the 3PS360 stick because the 360 ones and that shell just don't get along, with this shell I could go either way, but in keeping it as opposite as possible from the 3PS60 I've just decided to go with the 360 caps.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360033.jpg)
Another thing that could be done in this case is to sand or Dremel out the inside edge of the shell where the Stick hits, that will also increase the throw the stick has and is a lot easier to do, ya end up with the same result either way.
Post by: napsterking on June 28, 2008, 02:27:00 PM
I have no modding skills
Post by: RDC on June 29, 2008, 04:55:00 PM
Post by: RDC on July 01, 2008, 10:47:00 PM
Post by: A:I on July 04, 2008, 05:04:00 PM
Post by: All-Against-All on July 04, 2008, 06:45:00 PM
Post by: Dielman on July 04, 2008, 07:30:00 PM
Post by: RDC on July 05, 2008, 03:39:00 AM
I honestly have no plans to make a tutorial at present because of the fact there are 2 versions of DualShock 3 controller right now and 3 versions of 360 board that could be used to make the controller the way I do. So to be fair and give someone a chance to even half pull it off following a tutorial I'd have to have all of those versions of board and make 6 different tutorials for starters and then 2 to 3 new ones for any new version board that came out. So it would be an almost never ending thing and at the rate Sony is going with their controller revisions all I'd be doing is making tutorials or if I made only 1 you'd have to make sure ya had those exact components and that just makes it worse.
Also now that I've stuffed a PS3 D-pad into a 360 shell look for that to turn up on this thing sooner or later as well.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=655017
Post by: RDC on July 22, 2008, 05:17:00 PM
Post by: Nero_Sparda on July 24, 2008, 06:53:00 AM
Post by: RDC on July 24, 2008, 11:04:00 PM
can you please show more pics of the insides? I would like to see how the PS3 board is connected to the 360 one.
It's all together now and tearing it all the way back apart to get those kind of pics would cause damage to something as the boards are secured to each other now, this was a WIP thread, not a Tutorial one so there are no pics like that anyway. It's connected with wires, and you're still not getting the real problem here with the one you're trying to make, and after all the PMs we've had too where I've explained it many, many times to you. You're using a Wireless 360 controller board (that you haven't even taken apart yet) this one here was done with the Wired CL version controller board, described more than once in the thread here. So I could actually send this one to ya (which I'm sorry I'm not doing) and you could look at it under a magnifying glass all day long and the connections I made, traces I've cut and rewired on and it still wouldn't do you any good at all because it's nothing like what you'll have to do on your board.
This is why I'm not compiling any kind of tutorial on making this thing this way as of now. It's a LOT of work and there are 4 versions of 360 controller that could be used to do it as well as 7 PS3 ones. For the people that would like to see a tutorial done up I seriously do apologize, but really, this thing is a nightmare to do and if you could follow a tutorial on how to do it, then for the most part, you could figure the vast majority of it out on your own. It takes me the better part of a day to make one and that's if I have nothing else to do. It's one of the more demanding and time consuming controller mods that I've done and can think of doing, next to the 3PS60 one, and is definitely not something ya should try your first time out and even with a tutorial you'd still have to be pretty handy with the Dremel, Soldering Iron and at least a somewhat decent understanding of how the controllers differ from each other in their setups so ya can get them wired up together and working.
Post by: Infamous Ob on August 24, 2008, 07:59:00 PM
Post by: RDC on October 02, 2008, 03:00:00 PM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS360/PS360White010.jpg)
Post by: Jimmarn on October 26, 2008, 07:11:00 PM
QUOTE(RDC @ Oct 2 2008, 10:36 PM)
Here's a white one I just finished up.
Nice, just a idea, couldnt you use custom buttons aswell, as white buttons from psp (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) and Paint the d-pad white.
This post has been edited by RDC: Oct 27 2008, 02:24 AM
Post by: RDC on October 26, 2008, 06:54:00 PM
Post by: vacuuum on November 08, 2008, 04:09:00 AM
Pressure-sensitive buttons working?
Also, if I'm not mistaken those are the older S-controller sticks on that white controller.
How do those compare to the ones that come with the 360 originally?
Post by: RDC on November 08, 2008, 12:47:00 PM
I looked into getting the pressure sensitivity back on at least the 4 main face buttons, but that's just too big of a mess to do and as for reliability I'd have to say it would probably work for a few times before something gave on it. The only way I can see that happening is if I used a different main board that had contacts similar to the PS3 controllers or had my own board made up with the proper layout, and even then the Bumpers would have to be dealt with in a completely different way. I don't play much on the PS3, but I never really found any games on the PS2 that used the feature as far as the buttons go, the button has far too little travel for that pressure sensitive feature to be of any real value anyway.
The sticks are from the PS3 controller, the S-controller sticks are just like the 360 ones except they're black, and it's really a personal preference which ones someone likes more/less than the other.
Post by: vacuuum on November 12, 2008, 02:17:00 AM
This would look awesome with a black controller =P
btw, ever considered selling these things, I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one interested
Post by: RDC on November 12, 2008, 05:55:00 PM
Most of the ones I've done have been the Black controllers, no one seems to care for the White one much.
I do on occasion make one up, but when a controller has a price tag close to what the console costs not many people get in line for that.
Just a really, and I mean really rough rundown of what goes into one of these things is..
Get the controllers, and since there are 2 versions of DS3 and 3 of the 360 controller board ya can use that changes the amount of work and what all has to be done for each combination, hence no tutorial on it.
Strip the 360 board of pretty much every component, again depends on the version of 360 board you're dealing with.
Remove the Sticks, Battery Connector and LEDs from the DS3 board, also the Daughter board Connector, but again that's board version dependent.
Rewire the 360 board to conform to the PS3 layout, this can be a real mess and again depending on what version of 360 board ya have that has to be gone about differently for each one, but they all involve cutting traces at the right spots and soldering wires in place.
Trim the Triggers from the 360 board so it will allow the PS3 board to fit in between them, this has to be done as well as the PS3 board trimmed to make it all fit.
Cut the DS3 board so it'll fit between the widened Triggers, there is a certain amount ya can take off it and not really hurt anything, any more and ya make a real mess to rebuild, too little and it's not gonna fit.
Mount the PS3 Sticks on the 360 board, bit of a mess as they aren't made to fit in there.
Wire the one to the other, this also depends on which versions of board ya have as to how it goes and takes around 20 or so wires of 30awg that are only a couple inches long for the most part and all have to be soldered to spots just about as small as the wire is. The first few aren't so bad, but once ya get about half way thru ya start to wonder.
Then the shell even has to be messed with to get the proper range back out of the Sticks and to allow everything to fit back together.
This is another reason I doubt I'll make a tutorial any time soon as each of those brief outlines leaves out a TON of details that are extremely important as well and would almost have to be done via a video tutorial or just a load of pics. This brief outline also brings up so many questions that could have anywhere from 1 to 6 answers depending on what boards you're working with, so if anyone goes getting into one of these it's a mess no matter how ya slice it.
If I had to pick out the easiest way to make one it would be the older DS3 controller and a Wired CL 360 board. Reason is the Wired CL can have the Common Line split to conform to the DS3 layout much easier than either of the Matrix boards while the older DS3 has the connector on it and after it's removed ya have access to every button on both sides of the DS3 board to wire things up, so ya can keep the wiring mess half and half on it sorta, plus the CL board has TP spots to hit for the most part and that makes wiring the 2 together a little easier.
The combination I use most times is the Wireless Matrix board and either of the DS3 boards, the new version ones here mainly as the older ones with the connector are becoming scarce.
Post by: sassyness77 on December 06, 2008, 12:56:00 AM
thanks
Post by: RDC on December 06, 2008, 02:01:00 AM
Post by: L33 on February 27, 2009, 09:44:00 AM
Are you using the PS3 stick pots on the 360 board, or have you left the 360 ones in place and linked them to the PS3 board? I think this mod would be much easier if there was a way of leaving those sticks/pots in place, I notice that on my sixaxis board the pots are in a different configuration(direction) than those on the 360 board (mounted on the top and left of the stick shaft as opposed to bottom and side).
Thanks for any help!
Post by: RDC on February 27, 2009, 07:03:00 PM
The direction the sticks face is irrelevant so long as the Axis (POTs) are lined up, they can both point up, one up one down, both point right and so on, just as long as the Axis are kept in line. After that it's just a matter of wiring them up correctly as one may be reversed from the other, and on the 3 legged version ones that's as easy as swapping V+ and GND for the POT that's backwards, while on the 4 legged ones ya just reverse the 2 signal leads.
PS3 controller version info is here.. http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=648322
Post by: L33 on March 02, 2009, 03:43:00 AM
I've test-wired up my 'ps360' pad and so far so good, however I now need to trim the PS3 PCB, removing the solder points for the X-axis of the analogue sticks. Were you able to find alternate solder points for pin #2 of the 2 pots? The only points I was able to find are the empty capacitor spaces C40 & C39 below and to the left of the main Toshiba IC (using MSU PP4.0 9 board).
Also, in Ben Hecks guide on Engadget, he uses a 100k resistor between the top and middle pins of the L2 potentiometer, did you find you had to do this too, or did you leave this part out. I just can't quite work out why he's done that.
Last question (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Have you done this mod using any of the earlier revision boards and found that the metal shielding of the large 'ALPS' IC gets in the way - i.e. takes up a lot of room in terms of depth, I'm just wondering if its safe to remove to save some space (I'm guessing its a bluetooth controller or something?).
Thanks again for all your info, its helped greatly and is a far better way to do this mod than Ben Heck's cut and pasting perfboard method.
Just to add what you said about the older style 360 wireless boards, they are indeed a complete pain to use as a base for this mod, I've spent countless hours tracking and cutting traces to isolate buttons etc!
This post has been edited by L33: Mar 2 2009, 11:48 AM
Post by: RDC on March 02, 2009, 08:50:00 AM
I have no idea why that 10k was done on LT (L2) I don't have to do that the way I make mine up, and the thing is already a 10k POT, so that just drops it to around 5k in initial value. Those 4.7k Resistors though, the ones that replace the built in ones of the Daughter board, should be 7.5k instead.
Removing the shielding of the Bluetooth board could cause issues, it's better to just Dremel or sand away on the inside of the bottom half of the shell until it fits if it's causing issues, but CC3 there next to it sits up higher than that and needs to be moved.
In the end I believe it's a better controller, but ya really do pay for it in the amount of work involved in it versus the way Ben Heckendorn did his up.
I use the older Wireless Matrix 360 controller as a base most of the time, just 5 traces need to be cut (plus isolating the ground/power leads of the Trigger's POTs) then a couple jumpers to get it rewired to the PS3 controllers 3 common line setup, still it's no walk in the park for most and I spent a good deal of time figuring out how to make it that easy.
Post by: L33 on March 02, 2009, 09:57:00 AM
Excuse my ignorance but why 7.5k instead of 4.7k for the resistors on the PS3s plastic button grid?
You've done well to get the matrix board down to just 5 trace cuts, I've cut alot more than that! Also how did you isolate the grounding for the LT/RT pots? Did you just remove the solder barrel for that leg from the board?
Thanks again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: RDC on March 02, 2009, 10:46:00 AM
You can isolate the ground leads by just cutting the traces to them, 4 small ones to each Via (solder barrel) there, or just use a Dremel and a small engraving bit and go around it until the traces are gone. Ya really want to keep the Via as it helps to hold the POT in place when soldered.
Post by: L33 on March 06, 2009, 04:30:00 AM
I've got everything wired up, and it seemed to all work ok, yet I've found for some odd reason, 'down' on the d-pad also triggers 'triangle', and left also triggers 'circle' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I can't seem to work it out, theres no continuity between down & triangle, or left & circle. I've checked all wiring for shorts etc, none found.
The right and middle of the board work fine (ABXY / RT / RB / start / back / home), but the problem seems to lie with the left side. I'm wondering if it is something to do with the resistor values on that left common line? I've used 7.5k as you said, is it worth trying another value in there (4.7k / 10k etc)?.
Thanks again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
This post has been edited by L33: Mar 6 2009, 12:30 PM
Post by: RDC on March 06, 2009, 05:59:00 AM
I could probably write a book on all the different things that the controller will do if ya forgot to do this or didn't do that just right, but I've never had one do that, and I'll bet ya it's not the Resistors that's causing it either. Ya most likely have something shorted somewhere, as in forgot to cut a trace and have a couple lines connected that shouldn't be or some solder splash from removing components that's making connection between two pads and causing it, those are the 'biggies' that will cause issues making this thing up. What I'd do first is pull the wire for DD from the DS3 board and then press it, see if Triangle still goes off, same with DL and see if Circle is still triggered when pressing the D-pad, if it is you'll know the problem is there with those lines on the 360 board.
Post by: L33 on March 06, 2009, 06:35:00 AM
The L-com and R-com are sort of indirectly connected, as pins 8 & 14 on the PS3 flat-cable connector link directly to eachother via a trace on the PCB, so the order is:
Lcom -> Resistor1 - > Home 1 - > Resistor2 -> Rcom
Post by: RDC on March 06, 2009, 11:43:00 AM
To be more accurate the order is PS Common > Resistor > Com1 and then PS Common > Resistor > Com2.
Post by: pOps_uK on October 25, 2009, 08:05:00 PM
am in the process of trying to make a ps360 controller and just wondered if you have used tact switches or are you using xbox board? cause your picture doesnt really show much of the way of button set up, at the moment am using tact switches cause i started off doing a "Ben Hack" one, i try let you know what boards i have in morning now, thx
Post by: pOps_uK on October 26, 2009, 04:25:00 AM
right after a quick look on the two ps3 boards i have the first one is MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) and MSU PP4.0 9
the MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) is now going to have to be used for maybe a joystick mod as i balls it up removing the pins from the ribbon for the D-pad & buttons, i will have to use the TP Spots to salvage that one, but as for the other board MSU PP4.0 9 that is all wired up and ready to wire up to xbox board
if you have,nt used tact switches for your buttons or D-pad and have some how wired it to the 360 pcb i would like to know how, could you please explain how you wired up D-pad & buttons if you used tact switch or 360 pcb? if so i may need a new 360 pcb as i pulled parts off it and drilled holes in it, here the 360 board am using
thx pops
(IMG:http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss100/popsuk/WirelessCGTopClean_v2.jpg)
Post by: RDC on October 26, 2009, 09:09:00 AM
QUOTE(pOps_uK @ Oct 25 2009, 10:05 PM)
Hi RDC
am in the process of trying to make a ps360 controller and just wondered if you have used tact switches or are you using xbox board? cause your picture doesnt really show much of the way of button set up, at the moment am using tact switches cause i started off doing a "Ben Hack" one, i try let you know what boards i have in morning now, thx
am in the process of trying to make a ps360 controller and just wondered if you have used tact switches or are you using xbox board? cause your picture doesnt really show much of the way of button set up, at the moment am using tact switches cause i started off doing a "Ben Hack" one, i try let you know what boards i have in morning now, thx
This thread describes just that in the second paragraph, and if you see any tact switches in the pics it's just the one for the Sync button, cuz that's the only one there is.
QUOTE(pOps_uK @ Oct 26 2009, 06:25 AM)
Hi
right after a quick look on the two ps3 boards i have the first one is MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) and MSU PP4.0 9
the MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) is now going to have to be used for maybe a joystick mod as i balls it up removing the pins from the ribbon for the D-pad & buttons, i will have to use the TP Spots to salvage that one, but as for the other board MSU PP4.0 9 that is all wired up and ready to wire up to xbox board
if you have,nt used tact switches for your buttons or D-pad and have some how wired it to the 360 pcb i would like to know how, could you please explain how you wired up D-pad & buttons if you used tact switch or 360 pcb? if so i may need a new 360 pcb as i pulled parts off it and drilled holes in it, here the 360 board am using
thx pops
right after a quick look on the two ps3 boards i have the first one is MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) and MSU PP4.0 9
the MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) is now going to have to be used for maybe a joystick mod as i balls it up removing the pins from the ribbon for the D-pad & buttons, i will have to use the TP Spots to salvage that one, but as for the other board MSU PP4.0 9 that is all wired up and ready to wire up to xbox board
if you have,nt used tact switches for your buttons or D-pad and have some how wired it to the 360 pcb i would like to know how, could you please explain how you wired up D-pad & buttons if you used tact switch or 360 pcb? if so i may need a new 360 pcb as i pulled parts off it and drilled holes in it, here the 360 board am using
thx pops
Again, it's explained in the very first post that I used no Tact switches and the 360 board is used. It's also explained why there is no step by step on how to do this later on in this thread, there are just too many combination's too use and I'd never use a straight Six-Axis controller to make one personally.
All of the 360 controller boards, with the exception of the new CG2, are all traced out in the 360 Case Hardware Modding section. If you've messed the board all up then you'll have to use a new one, and exactly how/where you solder up for the buttons depends on you really, there are several spots that can be used, after you figure out the Matrix Layout and get it wired up to the 3 Common line setup the PS3 controllers use, and as I've explained in this thread before, I have no desire to get into a 'step by step' for any version of this thing as it's way, way more work to explain how to do it than it is to just make one up.
Post by: pOps_uK on October 26, 2009, 06:19:00 PM
something like this picture would be good, the solder points clearly marked out (tp spots) for i know this could be the way you have done it? but i guess we will never find out
solder the TP spots from your matching ps3 pcb as marked in picture 1
(IMG:http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps3_diagram2.jpg)
and the to the marked points in picture 2
(IMG:http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram7.jpg)
Post by: RDC on October 26, 2009, 08:08:00 PM
Furthermore, it's not like I'm compensated for every diagram and tutorial I've ever done, and right now I wish this was the case as I've had to devote a lot more time to other things instead of this. In fact I don't get one cent for all the time and effort I've put forth into all of the controller board diagrams I've made up, traced out and info/help I've posted on here that anyone can use at any time, so catching attitude isn't really the best way of going about getting the info you want, but it will guarantee I don't volunteer any of it.
It's way more than just soldering from one board to the other, plus you have the 360 CG board shown there, a right poor choice as getting it in the PS3 controllers 3 COM line layout from the CG one will be a serious mess, but if you believe it's that easy then I look forward to your tutorial on the PS360 when you're all done, or possibly a WIP thread so everyone can see the steps you've taken along the way, and as the info I've provided thus far is inadequate for you, and tracing out the controllers you intend to use yourself and not using any diagrams Ive done up would seem to be the fair way of going about it also, never know, ya may find an easier way of doing it if ya had to do some of the leg work yourself instead of having it right there in 'connect the dots' form, I figured it out, so I know it's not impossible to do, it's just a lot of work that a lot of people don't want to put into it, I did, and I'm honestly not in the mood to spend a month putting it all in an easy to swallow, one size fits all, babysitting mission tutorial.
Post by: pOps_uK on October 27, 2009, 06:17:00 AM
sorry for the attitude just a little pissed off that i cannot seem to find anything after spenting close to 3 hours reading google search results, and as for the ps3 & 360 contrllor its not as if we can choose which one before we buy them, as for tutorial goes am seeking help and guidance so i dont reck and more controllors which is not looking good as i already feel i may need to buy 1 of each again now anyway, will look again for your diagrams...thx
Post by: pOps_uK on October 27, 2009, 01:15:00 PM
for curiosity is it just a case of solder the tp spots on the ps3 pcb to the matching spots on the 360 pcb? or is there more to it then that? and does the 360 board need to be fully working or a faulty pad be ok? and does it take a power supply from the ps3 board? thx
sorry about the double post cant find edit button
Post by: RDC on October 27, 2009, 03:07:00 PM
QUOTE(pOps_uK @ Oct 27 2009, 08:17 AM)
Hi
sorry for the attitude just a little pissed off that i cannot seem to find anything after spenting close to 3 hours reading google search results, and as for the ps3 & 360 contrllor its not as if we can choose which one before we buy them, as for tutorial goes am seeking help and guidance so i dont reck and more controllors which is not looking good as i already feel i may need to buy 1 of each again now
sorry for the attitude just a little pissed off that i cannot seem to find anything after spenting close to 3 hours reading google search results, and as for the ps3 & 360 contrllor its not as if we can choose which one before we buy them, as for tutorial goes am seeking help and guidance so i dont reck and more controllors which is not looking good as i already feel i may need to buy 1 of each again now
Which is exactly why I've no plans to make any type of tutorial, because not many are going to have the same versions and there are enough differences between using just an older Six-Axis versus a new DS3 that it would take 2 complete tutorials to show how to do it, and that's provided ya use the same type of 360 controller board for them both, use a different one for one of them and that number doubles. Ya can't make an omelet without breaking a few eggs, with the PS360 controller being no exception, so you may as well plan on tanking 2 of each right now unless you know exactly what you're doing.
QUOTE(pOps_uK @ Oct 27 2009, 03:15 PM)
Hi
for curiosity is it just a case of solder the tp spots on the ps3 pcb to the matching spots on the 360 pcb? or is there more to it then that? and does the 360 board need to be fully working or a faulty pad be ok? and does it take a power supply from the ps3 board? thx
sorry about the double post cant find edit button
for curiosity is it just a case of solder the tp spots on the ps3 pcb to the matching spots on the 360 pcb? or is there more to it then that? and does the 360 board need to be fully working or a faulty pad be ok? and does it take a power supply from the ps3 board? thx
sorry about the double post cant find edit button
You only have 15 minutes to edit your post.
The PS3 and 360 controllers use completely different layouts for the buttons, so it's impossible to wire up one right to the other and if ya do it's not going to work right.
As far as the 360 controller being faulty, that depends on your definition of that, if the board is all knackered up and has traces cut it's next to useless, but if it's just dead and has never been messed with it's a good candidate, just depends.
The controller doesn't have a power supply, so no idea what ya mean there. They only have the battery, and the PS3 battery gets used.
Post by: Legacy678 on January 10, 2010, 12:22:00 PM
Not sure if you got my PM, but wanted to see if I can purchase another PS360 controller. Someone recently broke into my house and stole pretty much every electronic device in my home, including my ps360 controller. That was the one thing that got me playing my ps3. Please respond and let me know if you can help me out. Thanks so much RDC.
Post by: Pulsemasta on January 13, 2010, 02:59:00 AM
Post by: RDC on January 13, 2010, 07:22:00 AM
QUOTE(Legacy678 @ Jan 10 2010, 02:22 PM)
Hey RDC,
Not sure if you got my PM, but wanted to see if I can purchase another PS360 controller. Someone recently broke into my house and stole pretty much every electronic device in my home, including my ps360 controller. That was the one thing that got me playing my ps3. Please respond and let me know if you can help me out. Thanks so much RDC.
Not sure if you got my PM, but wanted to see if I can purchase another PS360 controller. Someone recently broke into my house and stole pretty much every electronic device in my home, including my ps360 controller. That was the one thing that got me playing my ps3. Please respond and let me know if you can help me out. Thanks so much RDC.
Replied.
QUOTE(Pulsemasta @ Jan 13 2010, 04:59 AM)
I would of done the opposite of this haha.. I like the PS controller a lot
I already did, over a year and a half ago - http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=652308
Post by: Pulsemasta on January 13, 2010, 01:12:00 PM
QUOTE(RDC @ Jan 13 2010, 03:22 PM)
That's awesome! I don't have a 360 but if I get one I may have some questions about this
Post by: RDC on January 22, 2010, 09:48:00 AM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/keithj202004.jpg)
Post by: Porta360 on February 25, 2010, 04:10:00 PM
Post by: sake on April 21, 2010, 11:06:00 PM
Post by: Dalpura on April 25, 2010, 05:34:00 AM
Post by: latinlegacy on May 21, 2010, 09:42:00 PM
Post by: RDC on May 21, 2010, 11:34:00 PM
Post by: zazzz on June 04, 2010, 04:06:00 PM
This post has been edited by zazzz: Jun 4 2010, 11:07 PM
Post by: RDC on June 04, 2010, 10:14:00 PM
QUOTE(zazzz @ Jun 4 2010, 06:06 PM)
I know this thread is kinda old but i have a question if anyone can answer. i just started this project but i was wondering how you wire up the RT/LT pots. since there are 3 legs and the ps3 only has the button pad things with 2 legs. ???
Just use 2 of the leads, the center one and one of the outside ones, it ends up being the same thing when it's all wired up, just a Resistor that gets lower in value when pressed/pulled.
Post by: zazzz on June 05, 2010, 09:54:00 AM
Post by: zazzz on June 25, 2010, 02:25:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 25, 2010, 04:41:00 PM
As far as rewiring the sticks goes, the right stick will still have all of the connections there, but the left stick you'll have to trace back the Pole connections and wire to alternate spots, some Resistors on the board in this case. The VCC and GND for the sticks sensors is the same for all of them, so any of them will do for those connections.
If it's a V2.5 1.05 you'll also have to remove the small board on there that has the crystal on it and rewire it so the board will sit more flat against the 360 board.
Post by: zazzz on June 26, 2010, 08:27:00 PM
Post by: Bos on August 24, 2010, 04:30:00 PM
I decided to have a go at making a ps360 controller and this forum has been priceless !!
I've got the 360 board pretty much wired up ready but now I have a prob with the sony one : VX 1.03 Board.
Had a right nightmare removing the analog sticks from it and knocked off a resistor (RT3) right next to the left analog.
I managed to find it on the carpet but then it flew out of the tweezers just as I was about to solder it back on lol, no idea where it is now
Would like to know whats so special about these Brown RT resistors compared to the majority that are blue?
I have checked RT2 + RT4 & RT5 on the right analogs circuit with a meter and they all measure around 7k Ohms,would soldering in a normal 7k resistor in RT3's place work ok?
Thanks in advance if someone is able to educate me
Post by: RDC on August 24, 2010, 08:17:00 PM
It's a Thermistor, or Thermal Resistor, hence RT for Resistor Thermal. It changes value depending on the temperature (NTC in this case) and needs to be replaced with the same type and value, but you'll really only get that from another PS3 controller board without knowing all of the specs of it, knowing that it's NTC, 0402 and 12k aren't exactly enough.
Replacing it with a fixed value Resistor will cause that Stick to drift in one direction or another at some point.
Blue Resistors are typically Precision Resistors, 2% or less, but they can be Black or any color really, just depends on who makes them.
This post has been edited by RDC: Aug 25 2010, 03:20 AM
Post by: Bos on August 26, 2010, 05:17:00 AM
It explains why I was getting slightly diff readings from them at various times, seems strange they'd use em in a console controller though.
I had a feeling you might be the man with the answers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Post by: Bos on August 27, 2010, 07:27:00 PM
All the desoldering went smoothly though so I obviously needed some practice at it.
Just 1 small question for ya :
I've isolated all the common zones on the 360 board (CG2) and I've left the common for the LED's also connected to the reset switch.
This will suffice right? or do I need to isolate the switch and wire it to com1/com2 etc.?
This post has been edited by Bos: Aug 28 2010, 02:30 AM
Post by: RDC on August 27, 2010, 10:24:00 PM
You'll need to isolate all of the LED common from ground, unless that's what you meant, as the PS3 controller uses a Common Anode setup whereas on the CG2 it's Common Cathode.
You didn't need to isolate all of the ground connections, since the [ ], X, O, /\, R1 and R2 all share the same COM2 connection, again unless that's what you meant, but if you isolated them all then what you've done is make it so you'll need to use around 90% more wiring than is necessary.
The Reset (Sync) switch needs to be left connected to Ground like it already is, that's the only button on the entire board that you don't have to change or isolate anything on.
The best thing to do with the miniBoard there (that has the X-tal on it) is to desolder it from the board, then remove the X-tal from the miniboard, insulate the top of it with a piece of tape or something and just rewire it back up with 4 wires to the original spots, but however you go about it as long as it's wired back up it'll be good to go, just keep the wiring for it as short as possible.
Post by: Bos on August 28, 2010, 03:33:00 PM
And yeah I agree its the worst 360 board but I really liked the new all black controllers + I'm only doing this once.
Theres probably an easier way to do these but what I've done is isolate the left and right sides of the board. I've got just one COM1 wire connected to left hand side for D-Pad + L1/L2 and one COM2 wire on the right hand side connected to [] /\ X O + R1/R2.
Also isolated the PS (Home) button on its own and Start + Select together.
I should have explained the part about the LED's and Reset Switch a little better!
What I've done is isolated the LED's and spun all 4 of em around so they will be common anode the same as the DS3 but I also kept the Reset Switch connected to this common thinking that it needed a + source.
I see now that the switch needs cutting off from the LED common and bridging to ground.
Roughly how many wires should I have with these 2 boards?, I'm in the 30's at the moment and still need to do the 4 for the USB/PnC cable and 2 for battery connector.
Just been looking at that X-tal thingy and this one only needs 3 wires : Pins 3/5/6 are ground,2/4 are connected together and then just pin 1 on its own.Would make positioning easier removing it from the miniboard but is it fairly easy to remove without butchering it?
This post has been edited by Bos: Aug 28 2010, 10:48 PM
Post by: RDC on August 28, 2010, 04:09:00 PM
All of the 360 boards are the same mechanically and can be swapped around between shells, so trading just that board for another version would have been a bit easier on you, though you're a bit far into the project now for that info to be of any real use.
It'll be around 40 to 50 wires when you're all done with it, depending on how you go about some things, but any more than that and you're going about something the long way, likewise any less than that and you can show me how to build one.
If you have a hot air setup you can remove it easy enough, but if not just leave it on the board and rewire, just make sure it's in a place that you have room for it.
Post by: Bos on September 05, 2010, 12:39:00 AM
No laughing @ the butchered solder points that lifted on the DS3 board !
Post by: midgetgrimm on December 10, 2010, 05:51:00 PM
Post by: Fifaking22 on December 30, 2010, 10:01:00 PM
Here Are My Pics
Post by: YourFace180 on February 08, 2011, 12:42:00 PM
Never mind, just shaved the sides slightly and it works perfectly
thanks for the pictures and info RDC
Post by: Mack702 on October 09, 2011, 12:14:00 PM
Post by: RDC on October 09, 2011, 12:36:00 PM
Post by: Mack702 on October 09, 2011, 12:45:00 PM