Post by: IAmMcLovin12345 on September 14, 2012, 05:10:00 PM
i bought a couple controller off ebay. claiming that they where genuine sony controllers
but i havnt seen this motherboard before :S and the daughter board is a solid board and not like the pictures ive seen :S
have i bought some knock offs or what?
heres a pik:
thanks
Post by: RDC on September 18, 2012, 11:18:00 PM
Post by: RDC on September 26, 2012, 04:25:00 PM
CODE
[]
X /\ O
35 34
Remember that TP18 is the Common connection for those buttons, which is to the right of the [ ] in your pic there in the row of 3 TP spots, TP25, TP18, TP57.
Post by: IAmMcLovin12345 on September 26, 2012, 04:37:00 PM
QUOTE(RDC @ Sep 26 2012, 10:25 PM) 
That's an MSU_V3.5X and the TP spots are listed on the first page of this thread.
You have [ ] (TP30) and X (TP31) correct.
If that orange dot is supposed to be O it's incorrect. O is TP32, which is right next to TP33, which is for the /\ button. All of those TP spots are right there next to the 2 you already have marked. You can follow the line from the TP33, TP32, TP35, TP34 marking right to them. TP33, TP32 are in the top of that little group of 4 there, while TP35, TP34 are on the bottom.
CODE
[]
X /\ O
35 34
Remember that TP18 is the Common connection for those buttons, which is to the right of the [ ] in your pic there in the row of 3 TP spots, TP25, TP18, TP57.
Like this
(IMG:http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh587/IAmMcLovin12345/sss_zps1928bff1.jpg)
?? thank you ??
Post by: RDC on September 26, 2012, 04:40:00 PM
Post by: RDC on November 01, 2012, 07:39:00 AM
Post by: diabolusbr on April 10, 2013, 11:45:00 AM
So, apparently my controller is some version of the MSU_V3.5X and I'm trying to do the usual: add an extra X button to it.
So I was thinking.... could I solder the wires to the X and TP18 points on the daughter board's connections ? I know I would have to scrape a little of the carbon off, but my main question is, would the daughter board as a whole lose contact to the main board due to the extra space from the solder (on the ones that aren't soldered)?
Let me know your input... thanks in advance
Post by: RDC on April 10, 2013, 11:46:00 PM
That will make a mess of the DB connection unless you were to use extremely thin wire and a pretty small solder joint, plus it's really pointless, since the 3.5X already has nice TP spots on the back of the board for both of those connections, so you don't even have to take the controller completely apart. You'd be making far more work for yourself with issues that would eventually turn up doing it the other way.
This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 11 2013, 06:47 AM
Post by: diabolusbr on April 11, 2013, 01:43:00 AM
QUOTE(RDC @ Apr 11 2013, 06:46 AM)
Welcome.
That will make a mess of the DB connection unless you were to use extremely thin wire and a pretty small solder joint, plus it's really pointless, since the 3.5X already has nice TP spots on the back of the board for both of those connections, so you don't even have to take the controller completely apart. You'd be making far more work for yourself with issues that would eventually turn up doing it the other way.
Thanks for the reply, RDC. Apparently I said the wrong controller. The one I have is some kind of MSU_VX3_0.07 but mine has 0840 (on the top left of the BOTTOM side) instead of the 0842. And that is exactly why I was thinking about soldering on the daughter board contact on the main board. Because even though I have a TP18, I don't have a TP spot for the X. I could try soldering the pin 60 on the chip but I really think I would do better with something a little bigger like the contacts from the DB.
Post by: RDC on April 11, 2013, 01:52:00 AM
You'd be better off soldering to pin 60 of the MCU versus the DB connection. With 30awg wire, small solder and a little patience it's not really that difficult of a solder joint to make. Since it's right on the corner of the chip, as long as you're careful and use the proper tools and parts, the chance of bridging pins together is minimal. There is always the Via for the X button as well, either of which is far better than using the DB connections.
This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 11 2013, 08:53 AM
Post by: RDC on May 16, 2013, 07:07:00 PM
TP39 for X
TP40 for O
TP26 for the common connection for X and O
Post by: odingalt on May 22, 2013, 08:47:00 PM
Brought to you by the guys at Viking Controllers :-)
Post by: cunape84 on May 23, 2013, 04:52:00 PM
QUOTE(i7vSa7vi7y @ Apr 29 2012, 01:03 AM) 
ASUKA REV: 1.06
The X is R1 and the [ ] is O on this pic.
I'm adding O and X mod but the points are wrong on this image.
Sorry on this model ASUKA REV: 1.06 where cain i solder to get a "x" and "o" button like scuf.. Can i solder in the directly in the motherboard can u show some picts about. Thanks alot
Post by: RDC on May 23, 2013, 05:40:00 PM
Post by: RDC on May 24, 2013, 04:42:00 AM
Post by: RDC on May 24, 2013, 04:51:00 AM
How to do that is in this thread - http://forums.xbox-s...p;#entry3406983
Post by: thatsjdmyo on June 04, 2013, 01:16:00 AM
QUOTE(RDC @ May 17 2013, 02:07 AM)
If you have that V2, V2.5 or VX version board, then you use..
TP39 for X
TP40 for O
TP26 for the common connection for X and O
Thanks for the reply RDC. Came to great use. For some reason when I came back to check on your reply the server was down so I took my own risk and it worked. Appreciate the help RDC thank you.
Can anyone show me what point I'm suppose to "scrape off" for the "O"? on the VX5 please and thanks.
Post by: thatsjdmyo on June 04, 2013, 04:38:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 05, 2013, 12:45:00 AM
The VX5 has no useful TP spots for the buttons, the Vias that can be used are shown on the first page of this thread, post #6.
Post by: RDC on June 05, 2013, 02:57:00 AM
Yes you need to prep the Via, that is removing the solder mask (green coating) from the spot before you can solder to it. That is also explain how to on the forums here and the link to it was given a few posts back.
Post by: RDC on June 14, 2013, 06:48:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 14, 2013, 07:06:00 PM
What is the exact problem any way?
Post by: George_Fonseca on June 14, 2013, 07:36:00 PM
http://i50.photobuck...SU_VX103Top.jpg
this is the model of my board
MSU_VX
Post by: RDC on June 14, 2013, 07:52:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 14, 2013, 08:09:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 14, 2013, 08:36:00 PM
You can take a pic if you like, but unless it's a really good pic of both sides it's not going to help much.
Post by: RDC on June 15, 2013, 06:55:00 AM
Post by: RDC on June 15, 2013, 03:10:00 PM
Post by: thatsjdmyo on June 25, 2013, 04:28:00 AM
Post by: RDC on June 25, 2013, 10:07:00 AM
Post by: Kamotcha on July 06, 2013, 08:35:00 AM
PS3 nav
Post by: RDC on July 06, 2013, 01:00:00 PM
I don't have any real info compiled on it, and I'd imagine, if there already isn't, for there to be more than one board version of the thing, in true Sony fashion.
I've only ever had one to mess with here, and added back in several of the 'missing' buttons to it, and it's not really easy. The Nav controller is pretty much just crippled a DualShock 3. It has the same MCU, so the leads followed the same pinout as every controller in that respect, but as to every function being there or not I'm not sure. I do know that on the one I worked on I was able to add back in the R3, [ ], /\, R1 and R2 buttons.
There are no easy TP spots for doing anything so it would be all Vias or soldering to the MCU depending on what you're wanting to do. They're pretty cramped in there also, but I didn't keep any real track of the one I worked on as it was all soldering to the MCU leads.
If I run across another one I'll post up some scans and info on it, but it's not a controller that I've had any kind of requests for working on, so I haven't done much with them, except for that one, so far.
Post by: Kamotcha on July 06, 2013, 04:22:00 PM
PS: RDC any thoughts on this idea?
Post by: RDC on July 07, 2013, 02:21:00 AM
Mashing 2 together will not work as each one will be seen by the PS3 as a separate controller.
Now adding in all of the missing buttons and stick from one in a mash up might be possible, but that's only provided that all of the functions are still on the Nav MCU. I've only checked for a few, and that's no guarantee that every version will be like that. That will also be far, far, far more work versus paying the extra cost of just getting some new/used DS3 controller online somewhere and using it instead. It's all in what you're trying to end up with as to what would work best.
Post by: Kamotcha on July 08, 2013, 03:51:00 AM
PS3 Nav Front PCB
PS3 Nav Back PCB
It's not the best of pictures considering it was taken with an iphone 3gs but you can see some TPs on the board, I did not had time to go thru them with a multimeter.
Anyhow this project would be very useful for lefties (I'm not one myself) considering that you have two halves of a DS3 and to my point of view much easier to mod a half at a time, but this is a WiP and I'm open to any suggestions and ideas.
Thank you one more time for your input RDC "The God Of Mod" lol kind of catchy.. xD
Offtopic: Is the search option broken in here?? everytime I've tried using the search button it gives me an error.
Post by: RDC on July 08, 2013, 07:25:00 AM
You'd need to connect both of those together with a cable that has around 16 wires or so in it. Unless you plan to make the 'dummy' one with a wireless transmitter and have it control a receiver in the 'main unit', then have it press the buttons with some electronic switches and a DAC for the Stick. Neither of those options are really appealing. The one needing a cable to connect both Nav controllers together, then the other being a wiring, coding and space nightmare.
I'm in no way saying it can't be done, it surely can and if anyone had requested I tackle it for their controller I probably would have already, but it's going to be a lot more work than what you're planning on. Most of it will be figuring out what all can actually be added back into the Nav, which means tracing out a DS3 all the way back to the MCU leads, and then tracing out a Nav and wiring it up with all of the 'missing' buttons/stick functions and then seeing what all does and doesn't' work. The Six-Axis may become an issue as well, so for some games it would be a crippled setup, even if every button and stick function could be restored.
This post has been edited by RDC: Jul 8 2013, 02:26 PM
Post by: Kamotcha on July 08, 2013, 04:05:00 PM
For the insides of the brain connections I was thinking in more radical connections maybe some type of clip for the MCU and flex cable like the DS3 daughterboard that would connect from the MCU to the two sockets.
Did you notice that Sony used some smd tact switches for the buttons pretty sweet, as for six-axis giro thingy you can disable on most games.
This trigger are so sweet for shooters with so many DS3 revisions I dont understand why Sony dont use something similar for DS3 triggers, I'm not really bothered myself with that as I use a wired cl 360 scuffed made by me with aluminium paddles on my PS3 with your fine help of course.
Anyhow thank you again for your input RDC.
My 360 Scuf
Post by: RDC on July 09, 2013, 02:01:00 PM
Tact switches are great, until they fail. That metal inside them can only take so much abuse, then they have to be replaced with a hot air setup, whereas the carbon type can usually just be cleaned off, or have the rubber pad replaced to get them going again.
The cost of an MCU clip and flex cable setup will set you back more than the cost of both controllers and all of the other parts you'll need, unless you plan to order a few thousand of them. Also, a solderless solution always sounds like a good idea, but that's all that's ever really good about it.
Post by: Kamotcha on July 13, 2013, 04:16:00 AM
By the way do you know any websites that sells a clip for this MCU? Or it has to be custom made?
Thank you for all your input RDC.
Post by: RDC on July 13, 2013, 07:17:00 AM
Post by: ncfballkid on August 29, 2013, 08:50:00 AM
I am in the process of trying to use a SixAxis PP4.0 9 version controller to convert into a fight stick. First of all, I just wanted to make sure that this is possible. The fight stick I am using has buttons that are just like the sanwa buttons with two connections on them. One I am assuming goes to the ps3 controller and then one that goes to the ground? I was reading and I know that the ps3 controller works in a way with the 'Pull Up Resistors' , so I didn't know if I could still pull this off... even though there is no ground.
this is an example of the button that I am working with
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pzMh3dL6...anwaButtons.jpg
If this is possible I would like to go back to what you have said before in the past:
'Get ya a couple (2 for each controller) of anything from 6.8k to 10k Resistors and install them from the PS Common line to the COM1 and COM2 lines, so the PS Common line is connected to COM1 and COM2 thru a Resistor. This will put the Pull Up Resistors in place like the Daughter board has and it'll work without it needing to be plugged in.
On the PP4.0 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP10 and TP17, then another one from TP10 to TP18.'
Once I connect a resistor to from TP10 to TP17 and TP18, Can I just connect a wire to the TP Spot of the button button I want to replicate and then that's it? Let's say for example, I wanted to replicate the Circle Button. That TP point is TP38. Once the common connections are soldered together using a resistor would I just be able to connect a wire to TP38 and then once I connect that to a switch it would hit the button? Or would that wire have to be daisy chained to the common spot TP's as well?
Thanks for the information.
Post by: RDC on August 30, 2013, 08:50:00 PM
TP18 is the Common connection for the X, /\, [ ], O, R1 and R2 buttons. You still need to wire the buttons up to the common connections, having only 1 wire on any switch isn't going to work.
So, to wire up the new O button, one side of the button will go to TP38 (for the O button) then the other side will go to TP18 (common for the O button) and that's it.
Post by: ncfballkid on August 31, 2013, 10:47:00 AM
Post by: RDC on September 01, 2013, 02:05:00 PM
Post by: dtlj17 on September 02, 2013, 02:43:00 PM
My question is about soldering to these smaller pcb points that the ps3 has. Im new to soldering but I have done a fair amount of research and I've also practiced on some of my older controllers. I understand the points and where the soldering needs to be, but I cant seem to get the solder to stick to the small brownish X and O points.
I have tried dozens of times, but the solder simply wont stick.
Im using 30 gauge wire, 9mm high Tact switches, official scuf paddles/screws, and hot glue to hold the switches down. I have been experimenting with both Lead and Lead-free solder tips and resin core solder, but neither have been able to stick to the small X and O points. I was wondering if those small points were Copper? Also would I need liquid flux to clean the points for the solder to stick? Or do I just scrape those points to get the solder to stick? Scraping the points hasnt worked for me, and I also ruined 1 controller so I now use it to practice soldering on those small points. I would take any suggestions, and I appreciate your help., and btw Im using the MSU_VX6_0.06 m-board.
Post by: dtlj17 on September 02, 2013, 03:26:00 PM
Post by: RDC on September 02, 2013, 06:55:00 PM
You have to remove the solder mask (the green coating) and expose the copper under it before the PCB can be soldered onto. Scrape too much and you'll go thru the thin copper and end up into the PCB, then it's a real mess to repair. Look thru this thread on how to prep a via and solder to it. http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...p;#entry3406983
The vias on the PS3 controllers are very small and need to be done very carefully also. There's no need to use flux on something like this, just any type of rosin core solder will be all you need. Use a decent magnifying glass and lighting so everything is easier to see.
I've no idea on how much work I'll put into the next, next generation of controllers yet, but they all boil down to having too interact with a human in some way (buttons, sticks, etc.) so duplicating that so there is more than just that method can always be done at least one way or another.
Post by: dtlj17 on September 02, 2013, 11:01:00 PM
Im almost there, I just need to figure this out and I will be a happy man. thanks again
Post by: RDC on September 02, 2013, 11:08:00 PM
I didn't see the solder job you did for the wiring, so it could also have been some short there to some other spot that you don't want the solder going to. This one seems the more logical as it worked fine after you removed your wiring and solder, so as long as you get it soldered up, and only where it needs to be, then it should work fine.
Post by: NYCXBOX on October 14, 2013, 10:44:00 PM
Post by: NYCXBOX on October 30, 2013, 09:48:00 AM
Here we go.....
I can confirm COM2 is the same point as the last revision.
AS I touched a wire diretly to the Plastic conductor pad.. But where the VIA's are - or the soldering points.
I am lost.. I am trying to figure it out.
Post by: NYCXBOX on October 30, 2013, 11:55:00 AM
BOARD MODEL VX8
here you go..
It's a bitch to scrape those VIAs and solder to them but it can be done.
Here is the layout of the 4 buttons and COM2
Here are some examples of my install...
I did X and O
The VIA layout is right in your face and matches the layout of the Front of the controller - I am sure that was done purposely. I basically found com 2 easily and then decided to poke till I found X O SQ and TRI but then I decided to follow the tracers on the flex board to the MOBO then followed the tracers on the mobo to the first set of VIAs and WA'LA!
PICS taken with MACRO on GS4 Phone - not bad.. I remember when pics like this were my SLR only
Post by: NYCXBOX on August 29, 2014, 06:35:00 PM
This forum needs some updates.. but glad it is back!
Post by: Leon20027 on June 08, 2015, 06:10:00 AM
Post by: jormagi on August 26, 2015, 11:06:00 AM
dear RDC
Post by: RDC on August 28, 2015, 06:16:00 AM
If you have torn off the TP26 pad then the right side buttons of the controller are all dead now, as that pad is in the middle of the trace. You will need to start at the TP26 spot and trace that back a little bit in each direction. One side goes to a Via, the other to pin 55 of the MCU. Then prep the Via and solder a small wire to, then solder the other end to the MCU pin to restore that trace connection. That will get the controller back to a working condition again. Then you'll have to really use the same Via for your new TP26 location.
Post by: RDC on August 28, 2015, 12:04:00 PM
No mention was made of the controller still working, but you're right as that point is TP43. I was going off another pic I had here and it was R2 that was marked, not COM2.
Post by: RDC on January 04, 2016, 09:07:00 AM
No one here is going to know what the issue is. Help out by posting a description of the problem and some pics of whatever you've done in there.
Post by: richard.gozinya on March 10, 2016, 04:28:00 PM
Hi everyone, I have the MSU_v3.5X 1.12 board. I am looking for COM3, I tried all of the legs from L3, no luck. Please click the picture for a larger version. In the picture you can see Orange, White Orange, Blue, White Blue soldered to the legs of L3, Orange soldered to TP24 (PS Home), white green soldered to TP17 (COM1), and green soldered to TP18 (COM2). Note that the 4 LEDs never stop flashing when plugged in to my PC. And when I unplug from the computer I still get nothing. I tested the battery with my multimeter and it's charged, it gives off a solid 4.0v.
Post by: RDC on April 22, 2008, 03:14:00 AM
MSU PP4.0 5 (Six-Axis, Old 'original version' board with 3 leg POTs, oldest I've seen anyway)
There is also an MSU PP4.0 9 (Six-Axis) BOTTOM - TOP and an MSU PP4.0 11 (Six-Axis) BOTTOM - TOP
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSUPP405.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSUPP405Top.jpg)
Now, out with the old...
Here are some of the newer versions boards. The main differences in these newer controllers are the Battery and the Analog Sticks, the boards are completely revamped as well, but you'll notice the Battery and/or POT leads right off, plus the shell of the controller doesn't seem to be the transparent 'smoke' color anymore but a more opaque Black color.
The first version of battery was the LIP1359 (w/sticker) then came the MK11-2902. While the newer MK11 is smaller in size, it's still the same 3.7v 610mAh rating. It also uses a bracket to fit where the slightly larger LIP1359 went. These batteries can be interchanged between the 6A (Six-Axis) and DS3 (DualShock 3) controller versions if need be and I've seen both battery versions in the later versions as well. There is also an MK11-3020 570mAh (Typ610mAh) that turned up later on, and seems to be the same as the other MK11, and now the LIP1359 (w/o sticker) seems to be the more frequently used one in the latest controllers, but again they are all interchangeable and one is really no different than the other, you just need to have the bracket for the MK11 batteries so they fit properly is all, but even that's really optional in a pinch.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/PS3ControllerBatteries.jpg)
The big surprise is the Analog Sticks in these newer versions, 4 legs on the POTs, needless to say that sparked some interest. So I desoldered one, popped it off and looky here...
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/PS3NewPOTs001.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/HallSensors.jpg)
..gone are the days of the familiar 3 legged POT and in comes these little gems. Magnetic and nothing to get all dirty and scratchy since there's no Wiper anymore, pretty nice idea, though a bit high tech for something that has no user serviceable battery and will in most cases be replaced instead of repaired if it were to die or break, still really kool though. These are Hall Sensors, and there are now 2 versions of these in the DualShock 3 version controllers, though the older style ones aren't used anymore as they seem too have a flaw with them, in that the Rivets that hold the leads onto the small circuit board can cause an intermittent connection over time and this will cause a direction or two to stop working, the newer ones are designed a bit better and I don't see them having this issue. How these things work is they have a Current run thru them and depending on where the Magnet is at (the part on the stick) it changes the flow of the Current in this Sensor. This then goes to an Op-Amp setup as a Current-to-Voltage converter and when all is said and done they basically work exactly the same way as a POT setup as a voltage divider, the MCU in the controller doesn't know the difference. This was done years back in the Saturn 3D controller as well as the Dreamcast controllers.
MSU_V2 2.12 (Six-Axis) There is also an MSU_V2 2.14 (Six-Axis) BOTTOM - TOP
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V2212Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V2212Top.jpg)
MSU_V2.5 1.05 (Six-Axis)
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V25105Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V25105Top.jpg)
This post has been edited by RDC: Oct 24 2012, 06:51 AM
Post by: RDC on June 18, 2008, 12:18:00 PM
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX103Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX103Top.jpg)
Here the DualShock 3 controller has been updated slightly. The main difference is the way the daughter board connects to the main board. They've done away with the connector completely now and it's just a pressure fit connection. This makes for taking the thing apart much easier as the whole thing doesn't have to be torn down now to unplug the daughter board. The brace is white in this version of controller also, where it's black in the older version. The TP spots are also different on this version of board compared to the older DS3 version.
MSU_V3.5X 1.12 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_V3.5X 1.14 Bottom - Top
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V35X112Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V35X112Top.jpg)
New Daughter Board Connection
NOTE: If you take any controller version apart that has this type of Daughter board connection (and all versions from here on do) make sure that small Black Foam piece doesn't get lost. If it's not in there the Daughter board isn't going to make a good connection against the controller board when it's all put back together and the buttons will not work.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_35X112Daughterboard2.jpg)
This post has been edited by RDC: Feb 28 2011, 08:48 PM
Post by: controller-guy on July 01, 2008, 08:26:00 PM
the reason I ask is I am going to do southpaw and need to know wich of the 4 pins needs to be swapped with other thumbstick signals.
also are the L3 & R3 thumbstick clicker buttons the same pins as the prior models.
this way it can be done with both thumbsticks and there clickers done in southpaw.
I just need to know what pins send the signals for the pots and what pin is used for the clicker and good to go after that with no trace cutting.
This post has been edited by controller-guy: Jul 2 2008, 03:28 AM
Post by: RDC on July 01, 2008, 10:16:00 PM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007001.jpg)
This doesn't necessarily mean if it has that bottom half it's this exact version, newer versions may also use this redesigned shell, but it's a pretty quick way to tell ya don't have one of the older DS3 versions without having to open the controller up.
Inside the controller they've done away with the metal brackets that hold the Rumble motors and made the Daughter board brace hold them, PS2 controller style. The Daughter board still uses the same type of pressure fit connection as the V3.5X has, as well as the same Daughter board.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007003.jpg)
MSU_VX3_0.07 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_VX3_0.08 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP and an MSU_VX3_0.11 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007Top.jpg)
The Triggers pivot pin has now been made from plastic instead of having a metal pin, this was most likely done to reduce costs, and it makes the older L2/R2 incompatible with the newer design, so if ya ever need to replace them for any reason on this version of controller they'll have to be this newer style.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007004.jpg)
And yet another revision change, this time around has some more changes as well, similar to when they went to the VX3 versions above, but this is the VX4.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX4_009White.jpg)
The Daughter board has been updated slightly, though it works the same way as before. The Daughter board brace is slightly revised also and holds the Rumble motors a bit differently, as well as clips into the controller shell now.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/DaughterBoard.jpg)
One of the slight changes is the D-pad, instead of the older 2 piece design shown on the left, it's now just the once piece shown on the right.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/D-pads.jpg)
The major change is the Left Stick has been mounted 180 degrees from previous board versions, which makes the board slightly smaller.
MSU_VX4_0.09 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_VX4_0.10 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX4_009Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX4_009Top.jpg)
I'd really like too have 1/10th of the money Sony is dumping into all of these revision changes when almost none of them are any improvement or even necessary in the least.
This post has been edited by RDC: Sep 7 2011, 05:24 AM
Post by: RDC on July 04, 2008, 10:27:00 AM
MSU_V3.5X 1.12 (DualShock 3)
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V35X112Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_V35X112Top.jpg)
New Daughter Board Connection
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_35X112Daughterboard1.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_35X112Daughterboard2.jpg)
This post has been edited by RDC: Jul 13 2008, 09:55 AM
Post by: RDC on November 28, 2008, 07:52:00 PM
MSU_VX5_0.05 (DualShock 3) There is also an MSU_VX5_0.06 (DualShock 3) BOTTOM - TOP
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX5_005Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX5_005Top.jpg)
The Battery has been changed to do away with the plastic spacers needed. It's now an LIP1472, but everything else is the same as the LIP1359 (see above posts) and it can be swapped for any of the other battery versions or vice-versa with the correct spacers.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX5004.jpg)
The Daughter Board has been slightly updated, but still works the same as the others do, and the rubber pieces are now clear instead of white.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX5DB.jpg)
Introducing the Asuka. (Special Thanks to odingalt for donating this controller)
Sony has either decided to go as cheap as possible with these controllers now, or some 3rd party manufacturer has access to the good MCU used in them.
The 4 leg Hall Sensor style Sticks are gone, back are the old 10k POT style, but still not the 'typical' size, so replacing them is again a hassle.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/AsukaRev106010.jpg)
The Daughter Board hasn't changed any, aside form looking like it was cheaper to make, but that goes along with pretty much everything about the controller. Even the shell feels a little different and the white color doesn't match the older ones. This thing was designed from the point A to point B standpoint, nice and simple and done, it just doesn't seem to be built with the same quality as any of the earlier versions.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/AsukaRev106011.jpg)
For the most part, nothing has really changed at all. It still uses the same COM line configuration as all of the other versions, thus it works the same way, so please no "will this or that modchip still work on it" questions, that was just answered.
ASUKA REV: 1.06
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/AsukaRev106Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/AsukaRev106Top.jpg)
Here is Sony's latest version, the MSU_VX6, where they have decided on going back to the older 3 leg Analog POT style Sticks. (Special Thanks to KingMike_OS for donating this controller)
Once I get to do some more testing I'll update the TP spots section of this thread with this latest version, though it hasn't really changed too much overall from the looks of it, aside from the new Sticks and the TP numbering is different. I'll know more once I get the scope on it and see what's the same or has been changed from other versions.
MSU_VX6_0.06 (DualShock 3)
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX6_006Bottom.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX6_006Top.jpg)
This post has been edited by RDC: Oct 24 2012, 06:50 AM
Post by: RDC on December 13, 2008, 01:41:00 AM
Of the 17 versions of these controllers, that I know of, there are (so far anyway) 7 different TP layouts for them. These are a general pic of the different layouts, what controller version they're on and what they do.
NOTE: All of the TP spots are NOT shown in these pics, this is just for reference so you can tell which controller you have at a glance and what TP spots are what on that version of controller.
These are for the USB Connector and they are the same on all versions of board, except the Asuka.
TP1 - 5v
TP2 - D-
TP3 - D+
TP4 - Ground
GND - Ground
This is for the older Six-Axis controllers.
Any of the MSUPP 4.0 versions that have the 3 legged POTs. The TP spots may or may not be tinned with solder also.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/OldSixAxis.jpg)
TP10 - V (Common Line for Home button)
TP17 - COM 1 (Common Line for D-pad and L1/2)
TP18 - COM 2 (Common Line for X, /\, [ ], O and R1/2)
TP26 - PS (Home Button)
TP27 - Start
TP28 - R3 (Stick button)
TP29 - L3 (Stick button)
TP30 - Select
TP31 - X
TP32 - R1
TP33 - R2
TP34 - L1
TP35 - DL (D-pad Left)
TP37 - [ ]
TP38 - O
TP39 - /\
TP41 - L2
TP42 - DD (D-pad Down)
TP43 - DR (D-pad Right)
TP44 - DU (D-pad Up)
TP60 - COM 3 (Common Line for Select, Start, L3 and R3)
This is for the newer Six-Axis, with the 4 legged POTs, as well as the older version of DualShock 3.
MSU_V2, MSU_V2.5 (Six-Axis) MSU_VX (DS3)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/NewSixAxisandDS3.jpg)
TP25 - COM 1
TP26 - COM 2
TP32 - PS
TP33 - Start
TP34 - R3
TP35 - L3
TP36 - Select
TP38 - [ ]
TP39 - X
TP40 - O
TP41 - /\
TP42 - R1
TP43 - R2
TP45 - L1
TP46 - L2
TP47 - DL
TP48 - DD
TP49 - DR
TP50 - DU
TP62 - V (Common Line for Home Button)
There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the solder joints of the L3/R3 buttons.
This is for the newer version of DS3 controller.
MSU_V3.5X
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/NewDS3.jpg)
TP7 - Ground
TP17 - COM 1
TP18 - COM 2
TP24 - PS
TP25 - Start
TP26 - R3
TP27 - L3
TP28 - Select
TP30 - [ ]
TP31 - X
TP32 - O
TP33 - /\
TP34 - R1
TP35 - R2
TP37 - L1
TP38 - L2
TP39 - DL
TP40 - DD
TP41 - DR
TP42 - DU
TP51 - V (Common Line for Home Button)
TP54 - Accelerometer Y-Axis
TP55 - Accelerometer X-Axis
TP56 - Accelerometer Z-Axis
There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the solder joints of the L3/R3 buttons.
On the latest version of DS3 controllers there isn't much in the way of useful TP spots, but here they are.
MSU_VX3
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007Vias.jpg)
The TP spots for the buttons have all been removed from this board version, so that means hitting a Via to attach wires, and they're about 1/3 the size of the ones in a 360 controller, so even if you're pretty good at landing a wire on those you'll have to be a a lot more careful scraping down and landing one on these things.
Right now this is probably the best spots to hit for an Arcade Stick or duplicate buttons, and until I use this board for something they should suffice, so this part here may be updated after I've done some more work on the board wiring it up to something and seeing which methods and spots work best. They were nice enough to leave the COM1 and COM2 TP spots behind, though that hardly makes it any easier if you were making an Arcade Stick from this version of board and it'll make building a PS360 with this version of board a little more fun as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
There isn't much in the way of useful TP spots, but here they are, and like all of the other versions of controller the USB TP spots are still the same.
TP11 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)
TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)
TP14 - Battery +
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
RST is the Reset or 'off' button on the bottom of the controller that pretty much no one uses I'd imagine. The other side of it is Ground and any spot will work if you want to duplicate that button for any reason.
Again there is no TP spot for the COM3 line and the best place to use is one of the solder joints for the L3/R3 buttons, or you can hit a Via for it if you like.
For any Arcade Stick builders using this board version, soldering to the Vias on these controllers isn't exactly the easiest thing to do, flipping the board over and using the contacts for the Daughter board is really the best option.
The black carbon material needs to be removed if these spots are to be used, and this can be done with an X-acto knife or some fine sandpaper, just be careful and when you get to the shiny copper, STOP, you're done. Tin it up with some solder and there are your spots to use. Try and use a 30awg wire, or 28awg at the largest, and make sure to secure the wiring with some hot glue after you make the connection, but don't glue over the solder joint you just made, secure the wire to the board back from the solder joint, in case you ever have to get to it again for any reason.
The Pull-Up Resistors (7.5k) also need to be put back in the circuit as they're built into the Daughter board and when it's removed they're not, and the controller will act up on you if these are not in circuit, why Sony decided to do this back with the PS2 controllers and carry it over to the PS3 is beyond me, it's really lame. There needs to be 2 of these Pull-Up Resistors installed, one goes from V to COM1, the other goes from V to COM2. If you don't have any 7.5k Resistors you can use anything from 6.8k to 10k really, but they do need to be installed since the Daughter board is removed, and all of the PS3 controllers are setup this way and need those Pull-Ups if the Daughter board is removed.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007Connection.jpg)
MSU_VX4
Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 above, just a little different layout is all.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX4_009Vias.jpg)
TP11 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)
TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)
TP14 - Battery +
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
MSU_VX5
Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 and VX4 above, again just a little different layout.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX5_006TP.jpg)
TP8 - Rumble +
TP10 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)
TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)
TP14 - Battery +
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
ASUKA REV: 1.06
As with earlier versions, there are no useful TP spots for any of the buttons, and just about every useful Via on the bottom side of the board is gone from this controller as well, so you'll be going top side for extra buttons on this one.
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/AsukaRev106TPB.jpg)
TOP
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/AsukaRev106TPT.jpg)
T101 - COM1
T102 - COM2
T103 - LSX
T104 - LSY
T105 - RSX
T106 - RSY
T205 - D+ (USB)
T206 - D- (USB)
T207 - 5v (USB)
T301 - Accelerometer Z-Axis (Pre Filter)
T302 - Accelerometer X-Axis (Pre Filter)
T303 - Accelerometer Y-Axis (Pre Filter)
T304 - Accelerometer Z-Axis (Post Filter)
T305 - Accelerometer X-Axis (Post Filter)
T306 - Accelerometer Y-Axis (Post Filter)
T501 - Rumble +
T504 - 2.8v (Standby)
T505 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)
T506 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Accelerometer)
T507 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)
T508 - Battery +
T509 - GND
T510 - GND
T511 - GND
T512 - GND
This post has been edited by RDC: Nov 1 2012, 02:37 PM
Post by: RDC on December 17, 2008, 02:23:00 PM
Same as with the earlier versions, there are no useful TP spots for any of the buttons on the bottom of the board. This version is pretty close to how the VX3, VX4 and VX5 were done.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX6_006TP.jpg)
TP2 - D- (USB)
TP3 - D+ (USB)
TP8 - Accelerometer -Axis (Pre Filter)
TP9 - Accelerometer -Axis (Pre Filter)
TP10 - Accelerometer -Axis (Pre Filter)
TP11 - Accelerometer -Axis (Post Filter)
TP12 - Accelerometer -Axis (Post Filter)
TP13 - Accelerometer -Axis (Post Filter)
TP14 - COM1
TP15 - COM2
TP16 - LSX
TP17 - LSY
TP18 - RSX
TP19 - RSY
TP25 - Rumble +
TP29 - LED+
TP30 - Battery +
GND - GND
This post has been edited by RDC: Nov 1 2012, 02:34 PM
Post by: RDC on January 19, 2009, 05:32:00 PM
MSU_VX7_0.04 (DualShock 3)
Post by: Mohulis on February 03, 2009, 03:06:00 PM
I've run into an issue that's fairly confusing to me, and was wondering if you might have any thoughts on it. A friend and I are working on a project with PS3 controllers, and I'll apologize in advance that there may be some limited info but I'll do my best to explain everything as thoroughly as I can. And the reasoning behind our project may not make much sense, so I apologize for that.
We are essentially just trying to mimic the actions of one controller to multiple other controllers. The only buttons we care about are the PS Home, /\, O, X, [], and the D-Pad. We've soldered wires to the TP's of those buttons & their commons on 2 controllers. One controller is MSU_V2.5 (1.05), the other is MSU_PP4.0. When the boards themselves are plugged into a PS3 the only button we can get to work by touching the corresponding wires together is the PS Home button. We assume this is because it has it's own common.
We found that if we plug the daughter board in, then all of the buttons work by touching our corresponding wires together. Why must the daughter board be plugged in? We've even tried removing the daughter board connector, tracing where each of the leads from the buttons went to each pad. Soldering directly to the pads and touching the wires together doesn't work either. What is in the daughter board that's filled with magical pixie dust?
It seems obvious it's completing the connection, we just aren't seeing what's on it that's different from completing the circuit with our wires. Is there resistance in it that is needed?Ideally we would love to find a work around for getting these buttons to work without the daughter board plugged in. But if we have to deal with the daughter board we could find a way to manage, it just makes the project a bit more difficult.
Post by: RDC on February 03, 2009, 05:50:00 PM
The Daughter board doesn't have any pixie dust, it just has Pull Up Resistors built into it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's some other lame thing that Sony had to do for some unexplained reason.
Get ya a couple (2 for each controller) of anything from 6.8k to 10k Resistors and install them from the PS Common line to the COM1 and COM2 lines, so the PS Common line is connected to COM1 and COM 2 thru a Resistor. This will put the Pull Up Resistors in place like the Daughter board has and it'll work without it needing to be plugged in.
On the PP4.0 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP10 and TP17, then another one from TP10 to TP18.
On the V2.5 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP62 and TP25, then another one from TP62 to TP26.
Alternately, but a little more lame, you can just leave the Daughter board plugged in to the controller if ya want. It doesn't have to be mounted to the brace that holds it or anything, so ya can fold it up some if it's a space issue.
Also, if you're trying to do something like use the PS3 controller as your 'base' controller and wire up some other controller, as to use it's buttons instead, take caution in to how the other controller is laid out. The PS3 controllers have a 3 Common Line setup and most other controllers you'll run across are Common Ground or Common Line. Wiring up the PS3 controller to a different button layout on anther controller will cause issues there as you'll be connecting lines on the PS3 controller thru the other controller that shouldn't be.
This post has been edited by RDC: Feb 19 2009, 03:23 AM
Post by: Mohulis on February 04, 2009, 09:57:00 AM
QUOTE(RDC @ Feb 3 2009, 06:50 PM) 
Thanks Mohulis,
The Daughter board doesn't have any pixie dust, it just has Pull Up Resistors built into it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's some other lame thing that Sony had to do for some unexplained reason.
Get ya a couple (2 for each controller) of anything from 6.8k to 10k Resistors and install them from the PS Common line to the COM1 and COM2 lines, so the PS Common line is connected to COM1 and COM 2 thru a Resistor. This will put the Pull Up Resistors in place like the Daughter board has and it'll work without it needing to be plugged in.
On the PP4.0 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP10 and TP17, then another one from TP10 to TP18.
On the V2.5 board you'd have a Resistor installed between TP62 and TP25, then another one from TP62 to TP26.
We kind of thought about it having resistance at first, but we must not have tested it in the wrong spots because we could never find any. And we tried using a couple resistors, but not set up the way you suggested, and no where near the amount you've stated.
In any case, we've got the controller setup the way you suggested in a breadboard and it's working perfectly w/o the daughter board! Thank you!
QUOTE(RDC @ Feb 3 2009, 06:50 PM)
Also, if you're trying to do something like use the PS3 controller as your 'base' controller and wire up some other controller, as to use it's buttons instead, take caution in to how the other controller is laid out. The PS3 controllers have a 3 Common Line setup and most other controllers you'll run across are Common Ground or Common Line. Wiring up the PS3 controller to a different button layout on anther controller will cause issues there as you'll be connecting lines on the PS3 controller thru the other controller that shouldn't be.
We are actually essentially just wiring it up to "transfer" the button presses from one PS3 controller to another PS3 controller. We weren't able to get both controllers to take the inputs from the buttons consistently in our last test yesterday however. Hopefully today with this new setup we can get them to register button presses exactly the same on a consistent basis. I will keep you posted! And again, thanks a bunch! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This post has been edited by RDC: Feb 19 2009, 03:23 AM
Post by: RDC on February 04, 2009, 03:26:00 PM
Post by: bustinthejus on February 17, 2009, 09:51:00 PM
Post by: RDC on February 17, 2009, 11:12:00 PM
QUOTE(bustinthejus @ Feb 18 2009, 12:27 AM)
Wow amazing work! I'm impressed! Btw, how would you go about finding what each point does? Poking with a multimeter?
Thanks. Your eyes are about the only thing ya really need, and a decent magnifying glass doesn't hurt at all, though to do it properly you'll need a multimeter to make sure it's the same spot from one end to the other and that ya didn't get lost along the way.
Post by: bustinthejus on February 18, 2009, 03:52:00 PM
Post by: bustinthejus on February 18, 2009, 11:39:00 PM
I looked at my sixaxis controller today earlier and all I'm seeing is a jumble of traces and stuff, haha. Any tips on how I'd go about finding points just with my eyes?
Post by: RDC on February 19, 2009, 05:15:00 AM
If ya don't have a starting point then you'll never find the other end of it, ya just have to pick a trace and stick with it and see where all it goes, sometimes ya have to start in the middle, just depends on what you're trying to figure out. If ya don't know anything about a circuit board at all then running down a trace shouldn't be the fist thing you're looking at, ya should do a lot of reading up on what parts are called and such and get a multi-meter so ya can Ohm out the trace from end to end after you have it mapped out to make sure ya have it right, it's very easy to get lost along the way on a board with much larger traces, and with the PS3 controllers it's pretty much a given at one point or another ya will.
Post by: bustinthejus on February 19, 2009, 08:11:00 PM
Post by: BurnToast on March 28, 2009, 06:21:00 PM
MSU_VX 1.03 (DualShock 3, The first version of it that I'm aware of)
BOTTOM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX103Bottom.jpg)
Hi RDC,
i was wondering i am currently in the process of trying to make a controller myself, however last night i had a terrible accident and damaged to of the tiny little what i think are resistors marked (R40) and the one next to it.
what is there that i can do to over come this situation?
regards
Post by: RDC on March 28, 2009, 06:51:00 PM
Shoot me a PM if ya can get some good clear pics of the board and I'll see what's what, but if components came off there I wouldn't have really high hopes and if any pads/traces were torn up then you'd be really hard pressed to straighten that out and it would be easier to just get a new controller. Then ya can finish that one there off with some more practice before laying the iron on the new one.
Post by: SR-V on July 03, 2009, 11:55:00 PM
Post by: RDC on July 05, 2009, 02:32:00 PM
QUOTE(SR-V @ Jul 4 2009, 01:55 AM)
RDC, thanks for the great work, i got a MSU_VSX_0.07 (DualShock 3), i'm in process of making an arcade stick and i was looking at the TP spots you marked on the pic, but i can't see the DL or DR spots, forgive me i'm i missed something, i'm still new to this. Thanks
Those 2 connections are like R3, they're under the MCU there so you'd have to hit an IC leg to make that connection. When I get another MSU_VSX_0.07 I'll retrace those back out and update the pic, but in the meantime I've updated that post with the top spots marked and a description of how that controller should be done up.
Post by: SR-V on July 05, 2009, 10:17:00 PM
Post by: SR-V on July 08, 2009, 10:17:00 PM
QUOTE(RDC @ Jul 5 2009, 04:32 PM)
Those 2 connections are like R3, they're under the MCU there so you'd have to hit an IC leg to make that connection. When I get another MSU_VSX_0.07 I'll retrace those back out and update the pic, but in the meantime I've updated that post with the top spots marked and a description of how that controller should be done up.
Thanks for the update, i just finished making that arcade stick, everything seems to work good, except that the joystick acts up sometimes (ie pausing on and off and ps button goes on and off). I only had 10k resistors, so i used 2 of them from v to com1 and com2. Does it make a diff which side of the resistor i run my wire from com1 and com2, right now i have them running from the com sides. Also, the PS button works to turn on the playstation and joystick, but when i press it durring a game play nothing happens. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Thanks
Post by: RDC on July 09, 2009, 02:46:00 AM
Examples:
COM1 - New L1 Button - L1
COM1 - New D-pad Up Button/Stick - DU
COM2 - New X Button - X
The PS button doesn't use a COM line, it's PS to V for that button, so that could be the issue you're having there, but I've no idea how ya wired it up. On that version of controller you're using TP11 and V are the same thing also, so on the front PS to V or PS to TP11 are the connections for the PS (Home) button.
Post by: Specter on July 19, 2009, 10:05:00 PM
The led 4 doesn't light up on my MSU_V2.5 1.05 (Six-Axis) and I think the problem is from the negative soldering point. Do you know if there's an alternate Negative solder point for this led ? (SMT LED4)
I tried to look on the RDC picture of the MSU v2.5 1.05 Six-Axis) but i'm not too sure and before I tried I don't want a screw the led contact more.
Thank you !
Post by: RDC on July 20, 2009, 12:56:00 AM
QUOTE(Specter @ Jul 20 2009, 12:05 AM)
Hi guys,
The led 4 doesn't light up on my MSU_V2.5 1.05 (Six-Axis) and I think the problem is from the negative soldering point. Do you know if there's an alternate Negative solder point for this led ? (SMT LED4)
I tried to look on the RDC picture of the MSU v2.5 1.05 Six-Axis) but i'm not too sure and before I tried I don't want a screw the led contact more.
Thank you !
The led 4 doesn't light up on my MSU_V2.5 1.05 (Six-Axis) and I think the problem is from the negative soldering point. Do you know if there's an alternate Negative solder point for this led ? (SMT LED4)
I tried to look on the RDC picture of the MSU v2.5 1.05 Six-Axis) but i'm not too sure and before I tried I don't want a screw the led contact more.
Thank you !
If the LED just up and stopped working it could be the LED is bad, the connection between the MCU and LED has a problem or the MCU has the issue, and if the MCU is the cause there's not much ya can do about that. If you've swapped LEDs on it then most likely the issue is the LEDs is in backwards or the pad has been damaged/lifted there.
In any case, it's the player 4 LED and I honestly wouldn't even bother with it as long as there are no other issues with the controller, odds are it'll always be lit up as player 1 or 2 anyway and you'll never even see that it's out except when ya turn the controller on, or if ya play as player 4, 6 or 7 all the time.
There aren't any 'easy' alternate spots to solder to for the LEDs though. The only other spots ya get to choose from are some Vias, the LED Resistor (RN2 on that board) or the MCU leads, which are all a whole lot more difficult to solder to than the LED pad was, so for a quick and easy fix there just aren't any options and in this case it's kinda better to leave it as-is instead of messing with it any more unless you're confident ya can solder to those areas and not cause any more damage.
Post by: KillerBug666 on August 20, 2010, 10:52:00 AM
I want to control games that require the stick(s)...everything except the sticks connects just fine to a simple open-close switch, solid state relay, or rheostat...but the just have to be different with their hall-effect sensors. :-(
My project uses an Arduino Duemilanove...there are 6 analogue IO pins (0v @ 0% duty, 5V @ 100% duty, 255 steps including 0v and 5v steps), and two of them are already in use. Anyone got any ideas how I could use the other 4 to simulate these 4 hall effect sensors?
My thanks in advance.
Post by: RDC on August 21, 2010, 07:47:00 AM
The 4 pins you're talking about using on the Arduino are Analog Inputs, you can't use those to control anything.
You can drive the LSX, LSY, RSX and RSY lines (TP19, 20, 21 and 22) externally with the voltage from a POT, DAC or PWM. They are 0v to 2.8v (with 1.4v being maintained for center) though you may have to remove the OpAmps as they will keep the voltage centered if the Sticks are removed and may have an effect on driving them externally. I've used a PIC/DAC setup before on the RSX line, locked RSY in center with a couple of Resistors, and removed the OpAmp to be safe, so what you're wanting to do can be done.
If you're using one of the newer version DS3 controllers with the SN84001 IC you'll need to scope those 4 lines and make sure they haven't changed the way it works, again, since Sony has nothing better to do with their money. I haven't put the scope on one of those later versions yet to make sure it's the same setup as the ones with dedicated OpAmps, might be, might not be, so check it to be sure. If you don't have a scope handy use a DMM and see what the voltage swing on those TP19~22 lines are while you move the Sticks. If they sit at 1.4v (Sticks centered) and swing around 1v or so in each direction for that line then it's the same setup, if they do anything other than that you'll need to scope them to see what's going on there first.
Post by: KillerBug666 on August 21, 2010, 08:57:00 AM
I already checked the power at the board, and this is what I found:
at rest, all outputs are 1.400v
when a stick is all the way up, down, left, or right, the affected hall effect sensor will have 1.440v on one output, and 1.360v on the other output...I figure this gives me 0.08v total range to work with.
Oh, and this sixaxis board is a MSU 2.5
Oh, I don't have a scope, nor the steady hands required to solder to those tiny traces if I found I could use them. I can handle the hall effect sensors...but that is about as small as I can go.
This post has been edited by KillerBug666: Aug 21 2010, 04:06 PM
Post by: RDC on August 21, 2010, 09:07:00 AM
TP19, 20, 21 and 22 are where you'll connect up to and 'inject' your voltage to control the Stick movements. Place the DMM on those spots (reference to Ground) and I'll bet you see the 1.4v center and 0v to 2.8v swing.
EDIT: On that MSU_2.5V 1.05 board it's TP27, 28, 29 and 30, again Sony changing stuff around as it was 19~22 on the older controllers, and is again now on the 3.5 and up, looks like the V2 thru VX versions were different.
This post has been edited by RDC: Aug 21 2010, 04:35 PM
Post by: Richie917 on August 22, 2010, 07:00:00 AM
I'm hoping someone can answer my question here....
I have bought a couple of xbox 360 style PS3 controllers but they both have dead zones on them. I am wondering if I could desolder the analog sticks and replace them with the analog sticks from a PS3 controller or xbox controller and that would get rid of the dead zone?
Does anyone know where this dead zone comes from? Is it the potentiometers used in the analog sticks or is it elsewhere in the circuitry of the controller?
Any help would be much appreciated!!
Post by: RDC on August 22, 2010, 08:58:00 AM
All controllers have a dead zone for the Sticks, that's the area where the Stick is at 'rest' and no movement happens. If they didn't have this dead zone they would constantly be moving in one direction or another, which is referred to as Stick drift and is a different issue.
Not all controllers use the same type of Sticks, the part on the actual board, and 3rd party controllers are renown for having pretty rotten ones in them anyway, as well as being soldered to the board in a right crappy way which makes removing them a PITA for someone not familiar with desoldering, not to be confused with soldering because desoldering something properly, that is without tearing things up in the process, is by far more difficult to learn and then actually do. If they are the same type as ones used in a 360 or PS2 controller they can be swapped out with those better ones, but not from any of the newer PS3 controllers as those are a completely different type of Stick and work differently.
If the controller has a larger dead zone than normal replacing them could sort it out, or the controller could be designed that poorly and there's nothing you can really do about 'tightening' up the dead zone.
If the controller is drifting removing and reinstalling them sometimes will resolve the issue, or replacing them may be necessary.
In either case, you'll have to take the controller apart and see what they are before it can be determined if they can be swapped or not. Also, the Stick 'Cap' (part you see and touch) may or may not fit on a new Stick either, some of them are designed different in that aspect as well.
This post has been edited by RDC: Aug 22 2010, 05:38 PM
Post by: Gamingmodz on November 03, 2010, 04:17:00 PM
I'm new to this forum and have a couple questions.I have been experimenting with the new PS# controller VX3 and VX4 and they seem to be giving me a lot of trouble. Sometimes when change Led's the controller goes crazy, and stops functioning normally. What is the cause of this problem? Also, does anyone know power points on the VX3 board?
Post by: RDC on November 03, 2010, 09:28:00 PM
The switched 2.8v source is the same on all of the VX3 and VX4 boards, that's TP13.
Post by: Gamingmodz on November 04, 2010, 10:06:00 AM
Oncc the board goes crazy, is there a waY TO FIX THE PROBLEM? Are we burning something out, or screwing up the chip?
Post by: RDC on November 04, 2010, 11:39:00 AM
What all is being done to these controllers that end up not working correctly? Are the LEDs being changed the only thing that's being done? or is there more soldering that's going on?
If you're sure the desoldering and soldering job is being done correctly, then what I'd look at would be the contacts between the controller board and the daughter board. In the bracket that holds the daughter board there is a small black piece of foam that keeps pressure on the connections. If this is missing, and it can just fall out after taking the controller apart sometimes, you'll get buttons that don't work or really random button issues with the controller. The same is true of the contacts on the controller board there, if they are getting dirty or messed up somehow during the LED swap that will cause issues.
Post by: Gamingmodz on November 10, 2010, 02:12:00 PM
Could it be the PS3 board is more sensitive to heat and a certain type of solder? Can you suggest a specific solder and heat the solder iron should be..
We sync the board to PS3 first then take out the battery to remove the led's. Then we we reconnect battery some controllers work and some dont???
Post by: RDC on November 10, 2010, 03:18:00 PM
Have you tried pressing the Reset/Off button on the bottom controller?
Try reinstalling the stock Red LEDs and see how it works. If they're still acting up after that and you like, PM me about looking at a couple of them, really not much else I can suggest without seeing what's going on exactly.
Post by: Gamingmodz on November 11, 2010, 12:24:00 PM
I tried everything and it seems not too listen. The ps3 board starts malfunctioning, and never goes back to its original state. I can mail you the controller for you review. Please email me your address at [email protected]. We need to get this resolved.
Post by: odingalt on August 31, 2011, 11:29:00 PM
Post by: i7vSa7vi7y on February 03, 2012, 12:32:00 AM
Post by: RDC on February 04, 2012, 11:14:00 AM
QUOTE(i7vSa7vi7y @ Feb 3 2012, 01:32 AM)
There is a new circuit board. The controllers have a matte finish now. The TP spots would be nice to have up.
Then either send it to me or get out your camera and DMM, because right now all 16 versions that I've run across are already on here.
Post by: birdman1967 on February 06, 2012, 10:25:00 PM
QUOTE(RDC @ Feb 4 2012, 12:14 PM)
Then either send it to me or get out your camera and DMM, because right now all 16 versions that I've run across are already on here.
I too have noticed they changed he packaging and the PS3 controllers. I went to my local Best Buy and the controllers were in new packaging and had a new look to the finish. I am looking to mod these controllers so I am hoping that you get some info on the TP spots soon. Thanks for everything you do on these forums, its so helpful.
Post by: RDC on February 07, 2012, 05:04:00 AM
The last one I opened up was a week or so ago, which was a Red controller that was in the newer style packaging and it was only a VX5, which is already documented on here. So again, if there's some alternate or newer version that everyone wants to see, then you're either going to have to..
Again, break out the camera and DMM (it's only going to take a couple of hours or so to do it properly, if you enjoy it and can keep at it that long with no breaks, or just have a glutton for punishment after already doing it, so far, 16 times)
Wait until I run across it, in the 'wild' as it were, (because I'm not independently wealthy and go out buying up PS3 controllers to tear them apart looking for different versions), or
Send it to be documented and wait for the results, which no one has ever done, (because I don't get paid for any of this either, it's a courtesy I extend that has been abused more than appreciated as I can count on one hand, with digits to spare, the number of people that have said thanks when they've used the pics)
Post by: odingalt on February 14, 2012, 02:16:00 AM
My staff ran across two "Rev 1.06: Asuka PCB Made in China" circuit boards this week, when we expected to see VX5 circuit boards. These were wireless PS3 controllers that were ordered using the latest Sony SKU# 99013 for white wireless DualShock3 sixaxis controllers. Staff sent me a phone camera picture by text message (attached below). I am leaving for a vacation in Hawaii tomorrow, so unfortunately I won't be able to take hi-res pictures or even put an oscilloscope onto these until I get back on the 23rd.
By the way - thank you for posting the VX5 board scans and pics of the modified battery. I'm ashamed to not have contributed board scans for the VX5 when I got my hands on one early.
TAKE A LOOK AT THE JOYSTICKS. Sony returning to the "three leg" potentiometer type joysticks to save money?
(IMG:http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/odingalt/IMG954944.jpg)
This post has been edited by odingalt: Feb 14 2012, 10:25 AM
Post by: RDC on February 15, 2012, 08:15:00 PM
QUOTE(odingalt @ Feb 14 2012, 03:16 AM)
RDC,
By the way - thank you for posting the VX5 board scans and pics of the modified battery. I'm ashamed to not have contributed board scans for the VX5 when I got my hands on one early.
TAKE A LOOK AT THE JOYSTICKS. Sony returning to the "three leg" potentiometer type joysticks to save money?
By the way - thank you for posting the VX5 board scans and pics of the modified battery. I'm ashamed to not have contributed board scans for the VX5 when I got my hands on one early.
TAKE A LOOK AT THE JOYSTICKS. Sony returning to the "three leg" potentiometer type joysticks to save money?
You're Welcome, and thanks for posting up that pic.
That thing looks more like a 3rd party controller to me. None of the TP spots have anything in common with any other version of PS3 controller. The way the silkscreen is missing from components, that Reset switch, Analog sticks. The Accelerometer having 2 spots is nothing new, but they've always had it laid out one on each side of the board, not both right next to each other. Curious to see the other side of that board now.
Parts of it seem kind of Sony, but most of it just doesn't look like them at all. If they've decided to go this route with the controllers, then I'd wager they've saved a ton of money on making them, both in parts and the quality of the PCBs.
Post by: RDC on February 21, 2012, 10:20:00 PM
As soon as I run across one it will be done up like all of the rest, just haven't seen one here yet.
Post by: freakk on February 27, 2012, 07:25:00 AM
I really looked everywhere on the web but I can't find the tp of this board and I really need them..
Someone any idea how to find the points on my own?
Post by: RDC on February 27, 2012, 10:10:00 PM
Post by: sagoku on March 12, 2012, 09:21:00 AM
per esser esatti ho bruciato il smd D1, suppongo sia il cmos dell'alimentazione usb.
qualcuno sa dirmi come si chiama il componente che dovei comprare per sostituirlo ?
essendo bruciato non leggo la sigla, inoltre non trovo il datasheet per il sixaxis (no dualshock3)
Google translate
hello guys ... I am Sasa, I'm Italian, I broke my joypad and I wanted some advice / help.
to be exact I burned the smd D1, I suppose is the cmos usb power.
someone can tell me what the name of the component that must to buy to replace it?
being burned do not read the code, also I do not find the datasheet for the SIXAXIS (no DualShock3)
Post by: RDC on March 12, 2012, 11:56:00 AM
The best thing to do would be to get one from another controller.
D1 is marked with 500 on it for the older Six-Axis only controllers, but it appears to be the same part on all of the different revisions no matter the part number, so any of them should work in place of that one.
It may work if it's just removed, as it seems to be on there only for protection, but if yours is burnt up there could be other problems with your controller as well since that part is also connected to the D+ and D- lines.
Google Translate
Guardando in alto alcuni di questi codici SMT può essere quasi impossibile a volte.
La cosa migliore da fare sarebbe quella di ottenere uno da un altro controller.
D1 è contrassegnato con 500 su di esso per i vecchi controllori unici a sei assi, ma sembra essere la stessa parte su tutte le versioni diverse non importa il numero di parte, quindi nessuno di loro dovrebbe funzionare al posto di quello.
Può funzionare se è appena rimosso, come sembra essere in lì solo per la protezione, ma se il vostro è bruciato ci potrebbero essere altri problemi con il controller e dal momento che parte è anche collegato ai D + e D-linee.
This post has been edited by RDC: Mar 12 2012, 06:58 PM
Post by: RDC on March 15, 2012, 09:17:00 AM
Thanks again to odingalt for donating the board.
Post by: sagoku on March 25, 2012, 10:41:00 AM
thanks a lot =o)
i'll try as u suggested.
c u next time bye =o)
Post by: sagoku on March 30, 2012, 05:14:00 AM
Post by: i7vSa7vi7y on April 28, 2012, 05:03:00 PM
The X is R1 and the [ ] is O on this pic.
I'm adding O and X mod but the points are wrong on this image.
Post by: RDC on April 29, 2012, 03:54:00 PM
Post by: RDC on June 12, 2012, 07:11:00 PM
Technically it's possible. You'll need to desolder one of the connectors from the older style boards and then wire it up to the corresponding spots on the newer style board, which would be far, far, far more work than just mounting the LED off to the side. The easiest thing to do would be to use the Daughter board and contact pad from another version of controller that still has the split design.
Post by: RDC on June 13, 2012, 08:14:00 AM
There isn't a tutorial for that specific version that I know of.
There's all kinds of room for LEDs, when you're using 0603 SMT size ones that is, to put it at the top or bottom edge of the PS button. It doesn't have to shine up from under the button to light it up. You can get a 3mm one stuffed in there, but it's more work than it needs to be also.
Post by: RDC on June 13, 2012, 01:18:00 PM
Post by: RDC on July 29, 2012, 01:35:00 PM
All versions of the PS3 controllers use the same 3 Common line setup..
COM1 for the Left side, D-pad L1 and L2
COM2 for the Right side, X, O, [ ], /\, R1 and R2
COM3 for the Middle, Select, Start, L3 and R3.
On the VX3 TP18 is COM2 (first page of thread) so TP18 + O = O button.
Post by: RDC on July 31, 2012, 06:36:00 AM
The VX4 version board's spots are right there on the first page of this thread with all of the other controller versions TP spots, and they are all already clearly marked.
The orange dot above the O in the VX4 pic is for the O button, and then the same thing that applies to all PS3 controllers about the COM lines, that is stated in the reply above your post, as well as in the TP spots section, goes for the controller as well, in short that is, TP18 is the COM line for the O button. TP18 and the orange dot are the spots you'll use for the new O button.
Post by: RDC on July 31, 2012, 07:08:00 AM
QUOTE
TP18 is the COM line for the O button. TP18 and the orange dot are the spots you'll use for the new O button.
TP18, which has been clearly marked already by Sony on the board, with the white TP18 next to it and the circle around it, can also easily be seen in the pic of the VX4 there.
Post by: RDC on July 31, 2012, 07:28:00 AM
Post by: bobrocka387 on August 01, 2012, 07:22:00 PM
Unfortunately I got impatient and went ahead and did it before you replied (wish I had waited). Destroyed both my controllers, dropped a big glob of solder on the one processor and melted the other daughter board to bits, but managed to bubblegum them together, got the button on and everything, but now my R1 doesnt work =[. Working on getting it fixed as I type this (waiting for the iron to heat up). At the risk of sounding like a fan boy I just wanted to say how much I appreciate what you guys are doing here It's really a big help.
***EDIT*** Destroyed it, hate my life
Post by: RDC on August 01, 2012, 10:19:00 PM
@ bobrocka387 - I doubt destroyed is the best definition, Daughter board is for sure as that's not meant to be soldered on, or even near, but those can be replaced. A solder blob doesn't mean it's ruined anything, just shorted things that shouldn't touch, and they can be removed in most cases without using the iron, and even if it was made into a mess of all the pins on the MCU shorted together it can still be removed. Even damaged traces and Vias can be repaired, though not typically by the same person that made them that way.
Post by: pnutbutter-n-jam on August 02, 2012, 11:37:00 PM
I'm modding my controller (MSU_V2) by adding 4 extra buttons (X,/\,O,[]). I've already mapped the TP points, soldered each wire and tested them to make sure they work (they do). The solder points are about as good as I can get them to be, but they are still pretty fragile. My question is, can I cover the entire soldered area with a layer of non-conductive epoxy? Granted that I ensure the solder points do not touch each other?
Also, I don't plan on changing the mod once its finished.
Thanks,
peanut
Post by: DesireX69 on August 03, 2012, 02:18:00 AM
After doing that and putting it all back together Every button works no glitches or problems O and Switch work. before only Switch did. all buttons
work in the Shutdown menu unlike before it did not. so im happy it all works
So now i got a perfectly working controller with working mods.
Im done modding it for now though. Happy modding people!
Post by: RDC on August 03, 2012, 06:28:00 AM
QUOTE(pnutbutter-n-jam @ Aug 2 2012, 11:37 PM)
Thanks RDC for putting this thread together.
...My question is, can I cover the entire soldered area with a layer of non-conductive epoxy? Granted that I ensure the solder points do not touch each other?
...My question is, can I cover the entire soldered area with a layer of non-conductive epoxy? Granted that I ensure the solder points do not touch each other?
Technically you could, though you're much better off using hot glue for that versus some kind of epoxy. If you'd ever have to take it back apart, or a wire still worked it's way loose after gluing it up with epoxy, you'd have an incredible mess to try and repair that and end up just doing more damage digging that stuff off the board. You also do not want to glue right on top of your solder joint unless you're planning to stick the board in some kind of harsh environment, try and glue back from it just a bit so you still have access to the joint if needed.
Post by: datakiller on August 06, 2012, 04:48:00 AM
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Really dont know what to say, thank you first of all about this thread and for all the information you provide.
i have been searching this for a while, i want to create an arcade stick for my ps3, and i have MSU_VX5_0.06, and really don't know how to start.
tell me please, where do i have to put resistance and with which button??
how much resistance i have to get?
thanks for the reply.
This post has been edited by datakiller: Aug 6 2012, 12:07 PM
Post by: RDC on August 06, 2012, 09:48:00 AM
The PS3 controller isn't like other controllers, and it can't be added to some existing arcade stick layout or another controller without doing some more work, so make sure this is going to be a PS3 only stick and that none of the switches in it are already wired together in any way. If you're making one from the ground up then you're good to go. You'll be able to wire up the COM lines with only 1 wire on the board for each one, and then just jumper around to the other buttons you need, instead of 1 COM wire for each button run back to the board (there's no room for that anyway) but they don't all share the same COM line. All of that info is in this thread also.
You can use any value from 2k to 10k really, though I'd just go with 10k as they are easier to get here and there. You will only need 2 of them for this.
On that VX5 there you can install the first Resistor from TP10 to TP17, then the other one from TP10 to TP18, and that will take care of the Pull-Ups that were on the Daughter board, so it can be tossed.
I don't recommend it for additional buttons and such, but since you're building an arcade stick from the controller, the best way to solder up all of the wires to where you need is to use the existing connection where the Daughter board mated up to the controller board, all of those black rectangle looking spots on the top of the board. You'll need to carefully scrape off that carbon coating and expose the copper, then tin it up with some new solder and then you can use those spots to solder up your wires. They're still small, and I'd use a 30awg size wire, but they're far easier to solder to than trying to prep and solder to the Vias on the board.
Post by: datakiller on August 06, 2012, 10:15:00 AM
Really thanks for the reply, you have already answered all my questions without even asking them.
i'll do what you have suggested, you're right, its the best way, i only need one last confirmation, this picture is about the diagram for an earlier version of the DS3, is the number's same for my DS version?
(IMG:http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps3_diagram3.jpg)
i'm talking about the numbers 1 to 20, i have checked, and found that the 20 is also the R2 and 1 is L2. !
need your confirmation before starting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Thank you.
This post has been edited by datakiller: Aug 6 2012, 05:19 PM
Post by: RDC on August 06, 2012, 01:59:00 PM
Post by: datakiller on August 07, 2012, 04:44:00 AM
Post by: datakiller on August 07, 2012, 05:49:00 AM
i'll use one ground for the joystick, another one for the buttons, can i use a third one for select start and ps button? or two grounds are correct?
Post by: RDC on August 07, 2012, 09:40:00 AM
COM1 - D-pad, L1 and L2
COM2 - X, O, [ ], /\, R1 and R2
COM3 - Select, Start, L3 and R3
PS (Home) uses V as the other line for that button.
Post by: datakiller on August 10, 2012, 04:51:00 AM