Post by: RDC on January 07, 2008, 04:30:00 AM
I give fair warning up front, if you've never had your hand on a soldering iron before or are a beginner this is most definitely NOT where you should be learning how or your next project, nor is this something that you can compare to installing a modchip in an XBOX, PS2 yes as you'll be all too familiar with the definition of 'small' and close' since Sony, if nothing else, really does know how to cram it all into a small space.
This is only for swapping the Sticks or Sticks/Clicks (Clicks are the stick buttons, L3 & R3)
If you're doing just the sticks then take the controller apart, not going into this cuz if ya need help here ya have no business at all going any further with this. Once ya have the bottom off the controller (no need to remove the board from the top half) you'll need to cut 4 traces (the Red lines) and they're in groups of 2. Where I have them marked it's pretty easy to cut them an not mess anything else up, unless you go really wild or happen to slip with the X-acto knife while doing it.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS36-AxisSPSticks.jpg)
Once ya have the traces cut it's just a matter of connecting the colored dots, which isn't quite as easy as it sounds, but is all that ya have to do and then ya have a SP (Sticks only) PS3 controller. Even though the copper pads seem exposed, the entire board is coated in a very thin clear varnish, so for those marked small spots you'll have to scrape them very lightly in order to get solder to stick to them good before ya go attaching the wires, use an X-acto knife or Fiberglass pen to do so. Once you're all done with that and it's wired up it should look something like this here.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS3Sticks001.jpg)
Now, if you're one of the SP gamers that needs the Clicks (L3 & R3) swapped along with the sticks (or just the Clicks swapped for whatever reason) then ya have a couple more traces to cut and 2 more wires to run to do that part of it. This is also MUCH more difficult than just doing the Stick swap part of it because you have to be very careful with the trace cutting here as well as scrape down a via to attach one of the wires to and that's something that's not the easiest thing to do on a good sized board, and with the PS3 controller's board being about half that 'normal' size it's a good deal more challenging and a good magnifying glass is something you'll really like to have handy for this.
I've marked 2 different spots for the trace cuts, ya only need to use one, but make SURE that these are the ONLY 2 traces that ya cut here, there are others close to it and from the pic it may look like ya have room to spare (especially in the close up below) but this stuff is very small and very close together, so if you're even the slightest bit unsure about it don't go laying the X-acto blade to the board anyway, practice on something until ya can do it properly or put the controller back together and just have it done for ya, the only other option is to learn to play with right handed controls. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS36-AxisSPClicks.jpg)
This is a close up of the traces that need to be cut and the via, again use either spot, both if ya really want to, but only one spot needs to be used to sever the 2 traces. After that it's the same procedure as it was for the Sticks, just connect the colored dots and you're done, L3 is R3 and vice-versa. EXTREME care should be taken when scraping the coating from the via to prep it for attaching the wire, use an X-acto knife of a Fiberglass pen, but do it very lightly as you don't want to damage the trace/via here.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS36-AxisClicksCutsClose.jpg)
This is another one I did that has the Sticks/Clicks swapped just to show roughly what it should look like.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS3Sticks-Clicks001.jpg)
Post by: pablot on January 08, 2008, 01:39:00 AM
Too bad that stinking sixaxis doesn't have any rumble. I'm itching to buy a PS3 but I am actively protesting against the no rumble. I'll have to wait another few months until they release it with rumble in Europe =/
Post by: RDC on January 12, 2008, 03:50:00 AM
I actually just picked up a PS3 tonight, needed one to test out a variation of this Southpaw controller setup, it's the same deal, just with switches, so it can be setup in Default, Southpaw, Legacy or Legacy Southpaw as well as swap the Stick Buttons (L3/R3) if need be.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS3Sticks-Clicks-Switches005.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS3Sticks-Clicks-Switches009.jpg)
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS3Sticks-Clicks-Switches010.jpg)
Post by: pablot on January 13, 2008, 05:00:00 AM
Post by: RDC on April 13, 2008, 11:37:00 PM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS36-AxisBottomLegacy.jpg)
Here is how you'd make a Southpaw Legacy one.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/PS36-AxisBottomSPLegacy.jpg)
There are also 5 versions (so far) of this controller board that I'm aware of now, and the 4 other versions are NOTHING like this one, see HERE for more info. The DS3 board and every other Six-Axis one I've seen so far all use a completely different setup and have 4 legged POTS that are more like Hall Effect sensors.
This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 22 2008, 10:23 AM
Post by: Chancer on April 14, 2008, 02:33:00 AM
Post by: stefan_uk on June 21, 2008, 10:23:00 AM
Is there anyone doing this as service for us left handers, i would gladly hand over one of my controllers for the full mod sticks and clicks.
It will far improve my quality of gaming finally on the ps3
If anyone can help with this please let me know!!
Thanks
Post by: RDC on June 22, 2008, 04:32:00 PM
On a side note that I've mentioned before...
In case anyone goes to tear down any of the newer SixAxis or DualShock 3 controllers be aware that this tutorial will NOT work on them. The boards on those controllers have been redesigned and they have to be done a completely different way.
Post by: controller-guy on July 02, 2008, 12:30:00 PM
(IMG:http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn332/controller-guy/4pinsouthpaw.jpg)
Post by: RDC on July 02, 2008, 04:45:00 PM
As for all of the others you have them all wrong, they're on the voltage/ground of the POTs, not the signal lines like they need to be. You have them wire reversed like they need to be, but on the wrong set of leads of the POT is all.
Post by: controller-guy on July 03, 2008, 09:02:00 AM
if so that is where I got it messed up becuase I thought the picture was the front of it.
I had asked prior if the L3 & R3 pin was the same and was told it was so I put the blue line on them thinking that was the pin becuase that is the same pin used in your picture above?
which would be the correct pins for the l3 and R3 if it is incorrect?
Post by: RDC on July 03, 2008, 09:46:00 AM
As far as the L3/R3 go yes the pinouts for them are the same, though the other stick being turned around makes it reversed, so I can see where that's got ya, but still these newer controllers have to be done a completely different way, as I've mentioned time and again now. Get put your multimeter and look at how you have that wired up too, you have the signal side of L3 going to the common side of R3, and what is that going to do? Nothing but make L3 work like L3, it's already wired up that way. Plus if you plan to swap L3/R3 that will take 2 wires to do, it can't be done with only 1 wire and again, these newer controllers have to be done differently.
I'll draw up a diagram when I get time, but you'll need to swap the signal side of both L3 and R3 to make them work in SP. The L3 side where ya have the Blue at is correct, but it needs to go to the other set of leads at the R3 one (right hand side set are the signal, while left hand side set are the common) then vice-versa for R3 to be swapped to L3.
This post has been edited by RDC: Jul 3 2008, 05:02 PM
Post by: controller-guy on July 04, 2008, 09:26:00 AM
I went on a angle from the thumbstick pots to the farthest pin from them on both side's and if you were to spin the thumbstick pots to match it the same as the other side it is the same pins I have marked in blue.
I know I would have to use 2 seperate wires 1 for each of the L3 and the R3 in order for them to have their own signal paths but I was just wondering if I had the right one's.
yeah if you could do a diagram of it and the way it should be that would great and much appretiated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Post by: RDC on July 06, 2008, 01:19:00 PM
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/Custom%20Controllers/NewPS3SP.jpg)
For the L3/R3 you'll need to cut BOTH set of leads on the right side (viewed from the bottom like in the pic) as they're connected, that's the way the tact switch is made and the traces on the board are setup, so they both have to be cut for it to work. This part is much easier cutting traces (2) and then rewiring from the TP spots for the L3/R3. The way you want to go about it White would be attached to say L3 and the soldered to the pad at R3, then Grey would be soldered to R3 and over to the pad at L3, or vice-versa, however ya feel like going about it.
Post by: controller-guy on July 07, 2008, 11:02:00 AM
like the red line goes on the bottom right pin and then to the top left pin for the thumbsticks?
I am a little confused on how you have the pinout for the L3 and R3 could you dot the actual L3 & R3 signal pin and where it needs to go with the matching color and possibly put the red line for the trace cut like you had done prior for the other model becuase I see 3 trace's in the pic and dont know wich 2 of them need to go.
I dont mean to be a pest but I have 6 of these I need to make southpaw and have done the 3 legged pot style's no problem and I thought only the duel shock 3's had these 4 pots but I found out wrong after I opened these up
Post by: RDC on July 07, 2008, 12:11:00 PM
The inside signal lead of the of the POT go to the outside trace of the other POT, so they are crossed, just no wiring gets crossed, if it's done right. The way your diagram was just had the lines crossed, but if ya look at it ya have the inside lead going to the opposite sides inside lead, which would have resulted in it being SP (if it were on the signal lines instead of the power lines) but also inverted on both axis as the signal lines wouldn't have been rewired properly.
The way you planned to do it (pulling the sticks is how you mentioned it in your PM, 'no trace cutting' it was) needs no trace cutting, you just run the pin from one stick over to the trace of the other, the right hand side pins/trace are the signal ones, but both pins on the right hand side need to be cut as to not make any contact with the traces as they are connected internally on the button. It's pretty much the same as with the POT leads really if you plan to do it by pulling the entire sticks.
Either that or you cut the traces and cross them after the fact and since you have 6 of them I'd need to know the board version of every one to show ya what traces needs to be cut where as well as what TP spots to rewire them to as that can differ from boar version to board version as well and I'm sorry but to be quite frank I'm not the one getting paid to do those things and if you are I'd try earning that money a little bit for a change. There's more than enough info around here to get it done, pretty much all of it in this thread really, so ya have a few options there...
You can use a multimeter and magnifying glass to find that stuff out much faster for yourself or...
Pull the stick and trace it completely out so ya know what goes where or...
Use the pics in the SixAxis controller versions thread to help out with all that or...
Wait until I get around to doing up proper tutorials for all of the different versions of boards that Sony keeps tossing out, which is going to be awhile, if ever, since playing tutorial keep up with them isn't exactly my idea of how to have a good time. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if ya had a board version I haven't seen yet either as many of them as I've run across so far.
Post by: Cuddywifter on July 28, 2008, 04:33:00 AM
Post by: RDC on July 28, 2008, 05:47:00 AM
QUOTE(Cuddywifter @ Jul 28 2008, 05:09 AM) 
Hi RDC .. I sent you a message .. hoping you can help me out
Replied.
Post by: Hifeno on November 13, 2008, 02:46:00 PM
Post by: RDC on November 14, 2008, 05:53:00 AM
Post by: Hifeno on November 14, 2008, 07:27:00 AM
Post by: RDC on November 14, 2008, 07:50:00 AM
I've been doing this kinda thing awhile and just 'know' when it's been heated enough and is ready to be desoldered and out it all comes most of the time, if not ya just hit it again, takes practice is all I can tell ya really.Best advice I can give ya is if ya don't know how to desolder properly then ya probably shouldn't mess with it, tearing a Via out of one of those things will be a real witch to repair.
Some general tips are to..
Forget using solder braid, use a pump.
Try flowing a little new solder on there, that will mix up with the old and aid in getting it all sucked out of there. Heat it up until ya can just move the lead with the tip of the iron, then get the solder outta there
If ya don't have around a 40w iron or so ya can probably just stick a fork in the project as the grounds take a good bit of heat to get loose and cleaned out. I use a 60w, but I've been at this kinda thing awhile, ya can really torch something if yer not careful with that kinda iron and just as easily pull a Via from using too much heat on it as using too little and not getting all the solder cleaned out before trying to remove the POT.
If ya can't wiggle the lead slightly after desoldering it then it's not desoldered completely and could tear a Via out.
Post by: Hifeno on November 14, 2008, 12:21:00 PM
Post by: RDC on November 14, 2008, 05:35:00 PM
This post has been edited by RDC: Nov 15 2008, 01:41 AM
Post by: Hifeno on November 14, 2008, 05:41:00 PM
This post has been edited by Hifeno: Nov 15 2008, 01:43 AM
Post by: RDC on November 14, 2008, 06:10:00 PM
I've never seen a controller that was dead center when connected to a PC anyway, they seem to float around some and even after centering it then moving it around it's probably not going to go back to dead center again. I haven't had any issues on the PS3 side after doing one, but you'll know right off if it's going to cause an issue as soon as it's synced to the PS3 and a game is fired up.
Post by: Hifeno on November 15, 2008, 04:47:00 PM
Post by: RDC on November 15, 2008, 07:02:00 PM
Post by: BiRNiT on December 27, 2008, 07:18:00 PM
I have one of the newer DS3 sixaxis controllers, and wondered if there was a tutorial for these to swap the sticks. The board i have is the same as this one:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?s=&...t&p=4301073
please ignore the wiring as it was not done by me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Soldering aint a problem for me, been doing it for over 20 years, I find it easier follwing a diagram from someone who has done and tried it before (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
thanx in advance.
Post by: RDC on December 28, 2008, 07:33:00 PM
QUOTE(BiRNiT @ Dec 27 2008, 09:54 PM)
Hi Guys
I have one of the newer DS3 sixaxis controllers, and wondered if there was a tutorial for these to swap the sticks. The board i have is the same as this one:
http://forums.xbox-s...&...t&p=4301073
please ignore the wiring as it was not done by me
Soldering aint a problem for me, been doing it for over 20 years, I find it easier follwing a diagram from someone who has done and tried it before
thanx in advance.
Post #14 and #16 in this thread describe what needs to be done on PS3 controllers with the 4 leg POTs. You'll have to pull the POTs (not the whole stick, just the POTs) bend the signal leads up and and then rewire it to LG, SP or LG-SP. It's kinda 'old school' as it's basically just pulling the part and rewiring it to where ya need, but it doesn't involve trace cutting and on those board versions it's the easiest way to go about it. The only thing to be careful with is make SURE ya have the things desoldered really good before trying to remove them. It doesn't take much to rip out a Via on those boards and then it's way more of a mess to straighten out.
The next one I get to do I'll get some after shots of it to illustrate it a lot better, but ya should be able to get it rewired for SP from the description.
Post by: Nillaz on February 14, 2009, 06:44:00 PM
QUOTE(RDC @ Dec 28 2008, 10:09 PM) 
Post #14 and #16 in this thread describe what needs to be done on PS3 controllers with the 4 leg POTs. You'll have to pull the POTs (not the whole stick, just the POTs) bend the signal leads up and and then rewire it to LG, SP or LG-SP. It's kinda 'old school' as it's basically just pulling the part and rewiring it to where ya need, but it doesn't involve trace cutting and on those board versions it's the easiest way to go about it. The only thing to be careful with is make SURE ya have the things desoldered really good before trying to remove them. It doesn't take much to rip out a Via on those boards and then it's way more of a mess to straighten out.
The next one I get to do I'll get some after shots of it to illustrate it a lot better, but ya should be able to get it rewired for SP from the description.
Hey RDC great work! I have one of the original ds3 controllers (VX-1.03) and want to do the legacy mod (just sticks, no clicks). I understand that for southpaw you just pull the POTs, bend the leads and rewire all of them to their corresponding opposite on the other side, but when you have a moment can you show me which leads need to be swapped just for legacy? All of the diagrams in this thread and talk about the tops of the POTs, bottom of the POTs, etc. has my head kind of swimming here. I've done this with original xbox and 360 controllers, but for some reason these new sticks with 4 legged POTs are not intuitive to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
My controller:
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX103Bottom.jpg)
BTW I've also been kicking around the idea of making a PS360 controller. I was going to follow Ben Heckendorn's method and do it myself on the cheap, but I think I like yours much better since it's so much cleaner...no mucking around with tact switches and hotglueing perfboard....but more importantly your method preserves the 'feel' of the 360 controller. If you're still doing this can you PM me a price? I understand that it'll cost a fair amount and frankly I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger on this but it would be nice to have some kind of ballpark figure so I can plan my expenses accordingly.
Much thanks in advance,
~ Nillaz
Post by: RDC on February 15, 2009, 01:55:00 AM
You'll need to remove them from the board first (just the POTs, not the whole stick) and I can't stress enough that ya have to be very careful doing so. Those things are nothing like doing a 360 controller and tearing out a Via can be done pretty easily and then you'll have a real mess to straighten out, so make sure all 4 leads of each POT you're working on is completely desoldered before trying to remove it from the stick, likewise don't use so much heat ya end up torching the small traces either. Flow a little bit of new solder onto the joints also before trying to remove the solder, that will really help in getting it all out of there and be prepared to really turn the heat up to get the ground lead desoldered.
Once ya have the X-axis POTs removed bend the Signal leads up, leave the Voltage/Ground ones like they are. Then wire the Signal leads up with some 30awg Kynar/Wrappping wire (around 3in / 7.5cm in length) and then feed those wires thru the holes where the Signal leads were and reinstall the POT. At this point it may seem like all ya have to do is wire up the one side to the other, but because the sticks are mirrored if ya do that the directions will be inverted, so ya have to 'cross' how ya wire the one side to the other. The outside leads (the wires) of the POTs will go to the inside trace on the board of the other POT and likewise the inside leads go to the outside traces, and that's about it. Don't forget to resolder the Voltage/Ground leads of the POTs after putting them back in.
PM sent about the PS360 as well.
Post by: Nillaz on February 15, 2009, 03:31:00 AM
I learned the hard way about tearing up vias the first time I attempted a controller mod years ago. The resulting soldering of jumpers taught me quite a lesson about the virtues of patience. I'm glad it happened then since it forced me to improve my soldering skills before I moved on to messing with more expensive equipment. Investing in 15, 40, and 60 watt irons certainly helped as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Post by: Nillaz on February 22, 2009, 09:25:00 PM
I used a bit of braid to clean up the excess solder left on the board. I can see how someone could damage the traces on the board with a clumsy hand or little soldering experience but for me it just went off without a hitch.OK I'm lying I did run into one issue.....I followed the wiring diagram in post #14 exactly and when I was finished left and right on the left thumbstick were reversed when I began testing....i.e if you pressed left on the stick I turned right on screen and vice versa, but only on the left stick. I went back and checked my connections to make sure I hadn't reversed them by accident and.....I did not! So I just shrugged, desoldered those two wires again and hooked them up in reverse and now everything is great.
Probably the worst part of doing this mod had nothing to do with the soldering itself. The worst part was trying to get the shell back together again snug with those stupid plastic inserts Sony is using between the shoulder buttons. It sucks that the new revision board has fewer tp's, but I bet the new shell revision that did away with those inserts is going to make life easier in the future.
Anyways sorry to get off track there. Just wanted to relay how it turned out and say thanks to RDC once again for the info maybe now I can actually enjoy gaming on my PS3 (or as I lovingly call it, my George Foreman Grill).
I keep getting hammered with home repair B.S. so my PS360 controller is getting pushed further and further away, but I'll contact you when I can get going on it and we'll figure out pricing/logistics.
~ Nillaz
Post by: RDC on February 24, 2009, 06:07:00 AM
The wiring has to be crossed (reversed) to work, but they don't have to physically cross to pull that off, outside lead to inside trace, inside lead to outside trace and so on, so in that pic it's..
X-Axis (Do only for Legacy)
Light Green - LS Outside Lead to RS Inside Trace
Green - RS Inside Lead to LS Outside Trace
Violet - RS Outside Lead to LS Inside Trace
Pink - LS Inside Lead to RS Outside Trace
Y-Axis (Do only for Legacy Southpaw)
Light Blue - LS Inside Lead to RS Outside Trace
Blue - RS Outside Lead to LS Inside Trace
Magenta - LS Outside Lead to RS Inside Trace
Red - RS Inside Lead to LS Outside Trace
Do BOTH X-Axis and Y-Axis for Southpaw
The Gray/White are for the Sticks buttons and it really depends on which version of controller ya have as to the best way to go about swapping them around, but traces do have to be cut for that to get them swapped.