Post by: gugutz on September 14, 2012, 07:14:00 PM
QUOTE(joeblow420 @ Aug 28 2012, 05:51 PM) 
just wanted to say, so far, i have been successful in formatting a new WD Green series..
the WD20EARX !
confirmed partitions are in 64 clusters.. so far so good!
Hey joeblow420, did you make anything else to make the partitions be formatted with 64kb clusters?
Because here the AID formatted mine with 32kb, and i had to use xbpartitioner afterall (both versions)
Still using the SATA drive and so far no problems (apart from the longer time to boot, but you eventually get used to it)
Post by: vicfcano on September 16, 2012, 12:53:00 AM
Post by: Mr.Slim on November 20, 2012, 10:49:00 PM
an WD an Seagates are your Best options.
Post by: KaptenPanaka on April 14, 2013, 04:21:00 PM
I used the same HDD and the complex adapter setup as shown in my picture
I was able to nicely put the adapter and the cables in the dead space behind the DVD. It's working perfectly and im very happy!
Result
Post by: galvanash on April 19, 2008, 11:18:00 PM
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
1. SATA harddrive. I assume there are other drives that will work as well, but I chose to use a Western Digital Caviar GP WD10EACS 1TB. It proved to be lockable so it will work for either modchip users or those with softmods. It is also very quite and runs quite cool to the touch. Regardless, you will need LBA48 support in your bios or a softmod which supports it such as nkpatcher (I use nkpatcher 11).
2. SATA to IDE adapter. Again, there may be other adapters that work, but I know this one does: SABRENT SBT-STDB IDE Ultra ATA-100/133 to SATA Port Mini Converter
Thats it really. I wont bother with a step by step as no trickery is required, the basic howtos for a harddrive upgrade will work fine. I used xboxhdm v1.9 and followed the normal procedure which can be found on this site. I used xbpartitioner and chose to split the free space across F and G using 32KB clusters. I ended up with 2 496GB partitions, and have completely filled up one of them with no corruption issues.
Happy upgrading!
Post by: BigPotty on April 25, 2008, 03:38:00 PM
Thanks a million for the info! I've been researching this idea for a long while and have been very hesitant to go through with it.
And to think I was just about to buy a 750gig IDE Seagate too (seems like the last model around).
THIS METHOD will soon be the ONLY METHOD for upgrading a HD! Hopefully the Sabrent hardware proves to be reliable though.
THANKS AGAIN!!
Post by: FierceGaming on April 25, 2008, 08:38:00 PM
-Nick
This post has been edited by FierceGaming: Apr 26 2008, 03:46 AM
Post by: BigPotty on May 01, 2008, 02:57:00 PM
Absolutely no problems setting it up. The adapter fits in nice and snug to both the SATA connector and the IDE connector. I set the jumper to master, took a guess on which way the IDE cable should go (the same direction as an IDE drive) and it booted properly on the first try.
Now I've been transferring around 450 gigs of files from my old HD to the new one. Been going all night and day without any issues...
This is the hard drive I got:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F1 HD753LJ 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822152100
So I suppose the limits on the xbox now are about a 1TB drive or so? I was reading a thread before about 64k cluster sizes, but not sure if that was worked out or not.
And thanks again, galvanash, for sharing. I probably would have went with an IDE Seagate drive if not for this. I avoid Seagate and WD like the plague these days! They just don't seem to be very reliable anymore.
Post by: FierceGaming on May 01, 2008, 04:25:00 PM
. However I have a dead hdd in my xbox (and no oringal drive) to so I had to order a 1.6 version mother with matching harddrive. But anyway I've done xbox modding since 2003 so shouldn't be a problem 
.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on May 01, 2008, 08:53:00 PM
QUOTE(BigPotty @ May 2 2008, 08:57 AM)
So I suppose the limits on the xbox now are about a 1TB drive or so? I was reading a thread before about 64k cluster sizes, but not sure if that was worked out or not.
Indeed, for now the limit is 1tb (using two 512gb partitions formatted with 32kb clusters).
We did get one guy going with 64kb clusters (grossly inefficient in my opinion even if it does allow a single 1tb partition - or even higher amounts of storage space), but it seems we've run out of willing testers.
Post by: BigPotty on May 06, 2008, 01:07:00 AM
Also, it's locked up a couple of times on me while booting. The HD activity led will just stay lit solid. Turn it off and back on and then it boots ok. It also had these problems with my old IDE HD too (but not till I started this upgrade)
So I'm thinking its probably one of a few things:
1. Maybe my 1.0 xbox is finally giving out.
2. My IDE cable is going bad. (is this common around here?)
3. Something with my PSU.
4. Something to do with Master/slave/cable select.
The reason why I list #4 is because I've read here that the HD should be on Master. Is this correct?
But when I went to do the upgrade, the HD that I was removing had been on Cable Select (for the last year or so).
The other problem is that the jumper on the Sabrent adapter is very cryptic! It seems to have 2 different markings for the jumper setting. I basically just guessed as to what it should be. (I think I have it completely out right now). So anyway I tried it a few different ways and it didn't seem to make a difference.
The worst thing is that this seems to be a totally random problem (the slow boots and the freezing/shut offs). It doesn't happen every time I use it, thankfully, but it is annoying.
So what do you guys think? Any idea about the jumper setting? Or the freezing? I was thinking that because the drive is so large and is fatx, maybe the xbox just takes forever to scan it on boot? Does something like that happen? Oh by the way, when it freezes on boot up, it's just after the "X3 rox my box". The other lock ups and or shut downs were while doing FTP transfers.
And yes I formated F and G with 32k clusters and at about 350gigs each.
Oh and another thing, earlier tonight I was moving a few more files over and when I booted the xbox, my G partition was missing! I rebooted and it came back. Very strange...
Post by: Bomb Bloke on May 06, 2008, 01:45:00 AM
It's too early to say if it's a drive model thing, an adaptor thing, or what... It also doesn't help that the symptoms come and go. Some sort of timing issue maybe?
Re the random shut downs, about how long would the system have been active? There's a six hour auto-turn off option that can be set via the MS Dash (on by default if memory serves), and XBMC also has a seperate setting of it's own (off by default though).
Post by: modderguy791 on May 06, 2008, 06:35:00 AM
QUOTE
Um, some of those things sound like other problems people have had... But only when using SATA drives.
Indeed, ive had this problem with multiple SATA drives on other modchip settings.He's right about the model thing but im going to have to go with its an adapter problem, did your adapter come with a driver disc? if so thats more then likely your problem, SATA adapter like that cant run properly on there own(which is why its meant to go in a PC). If you happen to have gotten one of those "plug in play" adapter then check the circuits on top for any solder that could be bridged, especially on the main chip. Ive noticed on my adapter when i first got it there was solder bridging over 5 pins together on that one chip, once desoldered the problem was GREATLY reduced.
also , does your drive have a jumper setting? if so remove it, if its anything like WD SATA drives then you dont need SCC
Post by: BigPotty on May 06, 2008, 08:34:00 PM
The Sabrent adapter doesn't come with or need a driver. It does work properly, mostly. I used it today for a couple hours without any problems. Played a few games and transfered some more files with FTP.
It did freeze up on booting once today, though. I turn it on and it shows the the Xbox logo and Xecuter stuff. The HD indicator LED flashes a few times and then turns solid red (This seems to happen on every boot up now). The HD LED stays red and XBMC doesn't come up. I've left it for up to 5 minutes and nothing happens. So, I turn it off and back on and then it will boot up normally.
As for the HD jumper, it didn't come with one. Although, it does look like there are pins on the HD itself to put a jumper, I haven't tried. SATA drives don't need this, right?
As I stated before the jumper on the Sabrent adapter itself is a little weird. Kinda hard to tell which position does what. Typical Chinese crap. I could probably post a picture here if someone wanted a closer look at it.
I have tried disabling all of the Auto-Off features, including in the Xbox Dash and XBMC. Didn't make a difference. Last night I did some transfers and when I woke up it was still on. I'm sorta thinking that maybe my Xbox is just getting a bit worn out.
Thanks again. It seems we might be the pioneers of the large SATA HD upgrades for the Xbox1. At least there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of other info / experiences around here.
Post by: SR388 on May 08, 2008, 02:31:00 AM
maybe upgrade to an 80mm fan or something
just a thought
Post by: Cappi on May 08, 2008, 05:49:00 PM
This post has been edited by Cappi: May 9 2008, 12:50 AM
Post by: BigPotty on May 08, 2008, 09:34:00 PM
QUOTE(Cappi @ May 8 2008, 06:49 PM) 
I have found that SATA drives never work out in xbox's. They cause the xbox not to work, and then work other times, and kill other components such as the dvd drive. Usually the hard drive dies after a month. It causes needless headaches so I refuse to use another sata HD in an xbox or computer.
That sucks that you've had such bad luck with this. You mind sharing a few more details? Like what kind of hard drives (brand/model/size) and SATA adapters you were using? Maybe what version Xbox and Modchip you have? I've been going over this in my head for the last week and I'm trying to work out every angle I can.
Hopefully we can all come up with some sort of guidelines for this. I still think that the Xbox1 is the best system, as far as Modding goes. And I surely don't want to see it die out just yet. At least not till someone cracks the 360 as far as the original has been.
And as for an update, it just seems to get more weird! Yesterday, it seemed I could only get my box to boot correctly about 2 times in 15. Didn't have time to mess with anything though. So, today I tried it again real quick before work and it booted and rebooted 3 times without a hitch. Hadn't been moved or touched from the day prior!
Does anyone know if a bad DVD drive could lock up the HD on boot? (Like a solid HD LED?) I don't think mines bad yet, but maybe it's going out. Who the hell knows.
Post by: xboxmods2977 on May 09, 2008, 02:53:00 AM
QUOTE(BigPotty @ May 9 2008, 04:34 AM)
Does anyone know if a bad DVD drive could lock up the HD on boot? (Like a solid HD LED?) I don't think mines bad yet, but maybe it's going out. Who the hell knows.
Just a little insight. I had the same problem with a regular PATA HD and it was because my resistance (POT) was not set correctly on the positive side of my HD light. It could also be a power supply issue. I hope this helps anyone. By the way, I would shoot for the cable select setting. And yes, SATA HD's need not have jumpers.
Post by: FierceGaming on May 09, 2008, 12:24:00 PM
Post by: ozreplicator on May 24, 2008, 05:06:00 AM
I installed a WD10EACS 1TB drive into a 1.0 xbox a little while ago, along with one of those Sabrent type IDE -SATA converters I found on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=250229080622
My problem seems to be the same as others are reporting, it seems to work ok most of the time, but sometimes hangs when booting, or boots very slowly.
When it does boot, sometimes it works ok, other times, after booting to the slayers menu, if you try and load xbmc or a game, it starts to load then goes back to the slayers menu. Rebooting it usually makes it work.
Other times I was able to ftp around 500GB to it without any problems.
Does anyone whow what the jumpers on the converter board are for ? Mine came with the holes on the board, but no pins. I soldered in the 4 pins and tried a jumper in the 2 positions but doesn't seem to have helped. It must be some sort of timing issue ?
I bought 2 of these converters at the same, I'll try the other one with the 1TB drive in a 1.6 xbox and see what happens...
Post by: ozreplicator on May 24, 2008, 05:19:00 AM
Post by: Chronusdark on May 24, 2008, 09:13:00 PM
Post by: FourTwentySmiles on May 25, 2008, 03:13:00 AM
OR
Is this thread just to see if the 1Tb can be successfully used INSIDE the xbox with no corruption.
Post by: zx6r6 on May 26, 2008, 01:07:00 PM
I noticed the adapter is listed as ATA 100/133, I take it you guys are using an 80 wire IDE cable? I've had similar problems on some older pc's with using 100/133 drives with 40 wire (ata 66) cables. Maybe the adapter is picky......
Hope this helps and I'm not just pointing out the obvious (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This post has been edited by zx6r6: May 26 2008, 08:08 PM
Post by: capboy210 on May 26, 2008, 02:53:00 PM
But beware that the xbox is not fully compatable with a nearly full 750GB hdd. I have around 200 gigs free on my 750gb HDD but folders and files float around the F & G drive mysteriously. One day something will be on your F drive, and the next day it appeared on the G drive~!!
Its not exactly that dramatic but just beware, the partitioning acts goofy sometimes. But in all reality i have not lost any data yet on my xbox so you should be alright.
Just make sure that:
Your bios supports custom partitions
You split F & G evenly in space
Set the entire hard drive to 32k clusters!
Post by: BigPotty on May 28, 2008, 08:45:00 PM
So I've been working on this for a few weeks when I get some time away from work and the social life.
This is what I've tried thus far (in no particular order):
- Variety of jumper settings on the Sabrent Adapter, including using 2 jumpers! (currently have the jumper completely removed)
- Fully disassembled and cleaned the MB and all components of my Xbox.
- Re-soldered the 2 main pins for the power connector on my PSU (I have a 1.0 and it needed to be done anyhow)
- Checked over all of my mod chip soldering work and cleaned it up a bit (I've gained some soldering skills in the last year or so!)
- Checked all cable connections
- Tried a variety of settings:
-Tried all of the Acoustic Management options for my HD (Samsung 750gig)
-Tried different power management settings in XBMC for the HD
-Set the HD's link speed to 1.5 rather than 3.0 using Samsung's Speed Switcher Utility
- Turned off the DVD check in the X3 bios
- Tried (re)booting in a variety of ways:
-CD/DVD in or out
-Cold Boot/Reboot
-Warm Boot/Reboot
-IR Remote Dongle in/out
-Wired/Wireless controllers in/out
-Others I'm probably forgetting
So, none of this stuff seems to make a bit of difference. Very frustrating! And today I noticed another peculiar problem. It seems that I can copy files from my SMB share with no problem, but when I tried to move a folder with files in it from my G to my F, I kept getting file copy errors! XBMC would stop the copy and give some error message about failing to copy. I tried quite a few times before giving up and just using the SMB file transfer instead.
And here's something else I noticed today. This Sabrent adapter seems to me to be the exact same adapter as this Rosewill one:
Rosewill Adapter
And, after reading all of the reviews for both the Sabrent and Rosewill models, it seems that people have had a variety of problems with both. From them not working at all, to the same slow boot / no boot problem, even on a pc.
So, since I've sorta hit a wall with all this, I broke down and have ordered another adapter. I had to search high and low for another model and supplier that seemed like it would do the job. I will report back with any success/failures after I've had a chance to fully test it.
capboy210: Is it necessary to set ALL partitions to 32k clusters? I've been under the impression that only the large partitions need it?
Post by: Bomb Bloke on May 28, 2008, 08:50:00 PM
QUOTE(BigPotty @ May 29 2008, 02:45 PM)
capboy210: Is it necessary to set ALL partitions to 32k clusters? I've been under the impression that only the large partitions need it?
Only partitions larger then 256gb need to use larger clusters. I'm not even sure if the console would function if you did the entire drive that way.
Post by: BigPotty on June 02, 2008, 09:33:00 PM
SO, a couple days ago my month old 750 gig SATA Samsung HD started the good ole "click of death". Of course, it's hard to say what exactly caused this. Heat? The SATA adapter? Samsung's new substandard HD's?
I read over the reviews for this particular model a little more closely than when I had impulsively bought the drive a month ago. It seems at least a few people have had the same problem or a DOA drive. I even read one review that said "I used to have great luck with Samsung" (paraphrasing). I've come to the same conclusion. I have Samsung drives that are a few years old running 24/7 and have never had a problem (SATA too). THANK GOD that Newegg is so freakin awesome. I was just past the 30 day mark, but I emailed them and they emailed me a prepaid UPS label and authorized the RMA!
Luckily, I hadn't reformated my old 300 gig Xbox HD, so I only lost a few things added over the last month.
Aside from all this, I intended to order a new SATA adapter from some no-name Yahoo shop, but they canceled the order and notified me they were out of stock. It "looked" like a higher quality adapter from the pictures. It has a JMicron JM20330 chipset and the store is kind enough to have a lot of info about the product:
http://cooldrives.stores.yahoo.net/sahadradtoid.html
BUT, no stock, so I ordered a similar looking one from an Ebay Store:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...N:IT&ih=004
Paid $7.98 WITH shipping!! Which is great, but I looked over it real close and noticed some horrible soldering work. And as usual, it's made in freakin China. Also, it has a 2X2 set of jumper pins, but no jumper included or any indication of how they would work. And the packaging RAPES the english language. Which is as funny as always, but I'm sure my heart will stop for a second the first time I try to use it.
So now I have a new Samsung HD on the way and 2 SATA adapters to experiment with.
Of course I will report back here with the results...
Post by: galvanash on June 11, 2008, 08:40:00 PM
I wouldn't at all be surprised that these little SATA adapters are hit and miss though, they don't exactly look like top notch engineering... But my particular one is solid so far.
ps. Im using the standard 40 pin IDE cable btw, but from my past experiences with xboxen 40/80 pin doesnt matter, as long as the cable is sound.
Post by: galvanash on June 11, 2008, 08:54:00 PM
Sometimes when it does this, if I wait a while (10 - 15 minutes) with it powered on it will actually start up (its kinda spooky, no idea what it is doing during all that time as there is no activity at all). Other times it just wont boot, even when I let it sit for hours. I generally open it up, look at everything, find nothing wrong, and then when I plug it back in everything is fine again... Im only posting this because I have spoke to friends with 1.0s and quite a few of them have dodgy ones as well. Id love to fix it though, as that is why I didn't put the 1TB in it. If I thought I could trust it Id put a 1TB in it as well. As it is now, Ill probably just buy another 1.6, they are like $60 or so on ebay...
Post by: stogiesam88 on June 11, 2008, 10:21:00 PM
QUOTE(BigPotty @ Jun 3 2008, 04:33 AM)
BUT, no stock, so I ordered a similar looking one from an Ebay Store:
http://cgi.ebay.com/...I...N:IT&ih=004
I'm also using that adapter for my 2.5" 320gb samsung spinpoint. I can't test it out now as I am waiting on a new power supply, but I will let you know how it turns out.
Post by: galvanash on June 13, 2008, 02:33:00 PM
I'm posting this because someone else mentioned they ran out of willing testers for 64Kb clusters. Well you definitely have one now. I just ordered a new v1.1 board to replace my 1.0. I'm going to TSOP flash it with x2 5035 and am going to buy the same 1TB driver/adapter for it as well. I would REALLY like to try and get it working with 1 F partition (or a small F and a > 512GB G), because from my understanding unlike a softmod the X2 bios wont let you do an even split of the free space between F and G for very large drives (please correct me if I'm wrong on this). Even if it is possible to split though, my preference is to have one of the partitions be > 512GB. I store nothing large media files (nothing smaller than 500MB or so) on it so I don't much care about slack.
When I get everything in order I will post again, but if anyone has info on how I can get my hands on the version of xbpartitioner that supports 64KB clusters please let me know. I know there has been alot of activity on a patch set for it lately, but I havent seen it on xbins or anything.
Post by: BigPotty on June 19, 2008, 02:14:00 PM
Well, I got the replacement Samsung HD. As soon as I started to transfer my stuff from my old HD I started having problems! Freezing during transfers and slow/no boots.
I'm pretty sure that it is only a problem with the HD's themselves. I cannot return the drive for another Brand/Model so I am stuck getting it exchanged AGAIN.
Well at least Newegg makes this painless for me with free shipping and friendly service.
So now I have to wait for another replacement drive and hope that it won't crap out on me right away. Then I get to worry about it crashing some time over the next year and losing all my stuff. GREAT!!
This whole upgrade has gone so well!! Screw you Samsung!! I used to trust you!
BTW, I was running this replacement drive on the new SATA adapter I bought from Ebay.
Post by: ozreplicator on June 22, 2008, 07:29:00 AM
I then tried an identical adapter I bought with the other one as a spare - this time both xboxes worked perfectly every time.
I checked the faulty adapter with a magnifying glass and found a solder bridge between 2 of the legs on the main chip on the board. This isn't present on the good one. I haven't been able to remove it yet to test, but the seller on ebay has offered to send a replacement anyway. due to the gap between the legs, the short is barely visible to the naked eye.
The soldering on these boards (even the one that works) is quite dodgy, and wouldn't be surprised if there are many more out there with similar faults. They are probably all made in the same Chinese factory no matter what brand name is on them.
Post by: run088 on June 22, 2008, 01:44:00 PM
QUOTE(BigPotty @ Jun 19 2008, 02:14 PM)
AHHH CRAP!!
Well, I got the replacement Samsung HD. As soon as I started to transfer my stuff from my old HD I started having problems! Freezing during transfers and slow/no boots.
I'm pretty sure that it is only a problem with the HD's themselves. I cannot return the drive for another Brand/Model so I am stuck getting it exchanged AGAIN.
Well at least Newegg makes this painless for me with free shipping and friendly service.
So now I have to wait for another replacement drive and hope that it won't crap out on me right away. Then I get to worry about it crashing some time over the next year and losing all my stuff. GREAT!!
This whole upgrade has gone so well!! Screw you Samsung!! I used to trust you!
BTW, I was running this replacement drive on the new SATA adapter I bought from Ebay.
I think your psu is dying if you eliminated the trace damage on the 1.1 and the issue is the same this is common I have seen this many times it was the first thing I thought when I started reading your last couple post.
I never had an hdd act like yours Ive had them put no audio or video out and had them throw errors but never send the xbox in a coma
If the xbox does not respond to anything it is almost always the psu or it could be trace damage from the pcb board to the pic16 or the pcb board itself on model 1.6 it usually is a collector that goes bad there is a tut here about it.
Post by: BigPotty on June 22, 2008, 07:37:00 PM
I was planning to reformat the drive and just send it back, but when I went into my X3 live setup to do the format I decided to change the LBA option.
Now don't get me wrong here, I have changed this option several times while doing this whole SATA HD upgrade. And normally I would leave it on the option for an F and G drive.
Anyway, I just decided to try and change it to F and G drive again this time before I did the reformat. Well, what do you know, the damn thing decides to work now. Unfortunately not 100% though.
BUT, I did leave it on for over 8 hours copying (by FTP through PC) about 300 gigs of stuff over from my other HD which was in a borrowed Xbox.
It went through all of this with no problem. I left it on while I slept and when I woke up it was locked up with the HD LED on solid. Damn.
I've been randomly booting, rebooting, shutting down, playing games and leaving it running for the last couple days. It seems like it's ok now. But who the hell knows? I hate this! Now I'm considering building another Xbox just so I have a proper backup of it. Another $150 or so. Yeah I can afford that. (Yeah right).
It would be nice for my car though! LCD, new head unit with Aux input, maybe a new sub and amp. I think I need another job.
Maybe none of this is even worth the trouble! But I feel so commited now!
And yeah, I looked over the SATA adapter I got off of Ebay and the soldering looked pretty bad. I cleaned it up a bit, but doesn't seem to make a difference. Didn't notice any solder on the chip though. Maybe I need a stronger magnifying glass.
BTW, thanks to all those offering suggestions! And may I suggest, if you have this working well with NO problems maybe you could share some details about your setup?
Post by: run088 on June 22, 2008, 09:23:00 PM
It does not take a rocket scientist to figure out 3 hdds later that the hdd may not be the problem.
My guess as I said is the problems you have are signs of a dying psu most of the time or the traces as I said but if you dont want to listen you can continue sitting around with your broken xbox.
Do I have to send you one that I have laying around that acts the same way to prove this before you put any stock in it or do you really not want to fix it at all?
By the way it is not uncommon for the xbox to freeze on that big of transfers just boot it back up and continue transfering it will be fine.
Post by: BigPotty on June 24, 2008, 08:48:00 PM
QUOTE(run088 @ Jun 22 2008, 10:23 PM)
It does not take a rocket scientist to figure out 3 hdds later that the hdd may not be the problem.
My guess as I said is the problems you have are signs of a dying psu most of the time or the traces as I said but if you dont want to listen you can continue sitting around with your broken xbox.
Do I have to send you one that I have laying around that acts the same way to prove this before you put any stock in it or do you really not want to fix it at all?
By the way it is not uncommon for the xbox to freeze on that big of transfers just boot it back up and continue transfering it will be fine.
Thanks for your suggestions run088. I'm in fact only on the 2nd HD. I have not yet decided to send it back as I'm still testing it. The freeze up was not during the file transfer. Maybe I wasn't completely clear in my last post about that. 300 gigs of file transfer went just fine. Then I left it on over night (IDLE) and when I woke up it was frozen.
I only suspect the hard drive due to the large amount of complaints about this particular model in the customer reviews on Newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductRevie...False&Page=
I don't disaggree with you however that my power supply or motherboard could also be the problem. In fact it could be the SATA adapter too. Or some combination of all 4 components.
The problem is that this is only an intermitant thing and I have no way of isolating any aspect specifically.
Maybe you could give me some advice about testing my power supply? I have multimeters but don't know the first thing about how these power supplies work.
Thanks again for your assistance!
Post by: Bomb Bloke on July 03, 2008, 04:54:00 AM
The adapter was some cheap no-brand Korean thing. Has a jumper diagram to set master/slave etc but no actual pins in the jumper points. Plus both sets of jumpers have the same name (JP0) whereas the jumper diagram lists a JP0 and a JP1 as well... So yeah, really cheap. Eventually worked out that it's set to master by default (other then the chart on the circuit board there was no documentation included at all).
Plugged it in and my X2 5035 sits on the Live Config Loading screen for a few minutes, goes to a black screen for a few minutes, flubbers, sits on the XBOX screen for a few minutes, and then finally goes to an error 14 (takes about a quarter hour to get there all up).
EvoX M8+ flubbers right away then sits on the XBOX screen. Couldn't be bothered waiting to see if it eventually went to an error.
Plugged it into a PC and... works fine. Hooked it up on primary master, DVD drive on secondary master, XBoxHDM quite happily formatted and installed a dash and so forth. Stuck it back in the console but it acted the same way as before.
Stuck it in the PC again (PC's own HDD on primary master, SATA drive on secondary master, DVD on secondary slave), formatted with NTFS successfully and played Sonic 3 & Knuckles off it (love that game).
So I'd say the adapter is functioning, and the jumper settings must be ok, but for whatever reason the console still isn't happy with it. Guess I'm stuck with my 320gb Seagate for a while longer.
Post by: BigPotty on July 03, 2008, 05:08:00 PM
Currently waiting on my 3rd 750gig Samsung drive to be delivered. After a lot of testing and moving files back and forth, the second one finally died. And it was working pretty well too. I'd say properly booting about 95% of the time and occasionally my F partition would be "missing". A reboot would bring it back though. Definately tollerable. Oh well.
Same as the first one, it started the "click of death".
This one was used with a different model of SATA adapter than the first one.
Thanks to Newegg for providing me another free shipping label for the return.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on July 06, 2008, 10:50:00 PM
QUOTE(BigPotty @ Jul 4 2008, 08:08 AM)
Bomb Bloke: I'd suggest trying some other jumper settings including 2 jumpers and no jumper and possibly even changing the orientation of them. I believe the Xbox likes "Cable Select" best. Or, if you're so inclined, you could try getting a different adapter. What brand of HD did you use?
The X-Box expects the drive to be in the Master position, so that should've worked. I gave Cable Select a go anyway but it didn't make a difference. Thanks for the suggestion though. I imagine the drive just isn't initialising fast enough for the system's liking, I don't hear the drive head start to move until a few seconds after it's powered up.
As mentioned, the drive is a 750gb Samsung - in fact I see it's the same design as yours. The exact model is HD753LJ.
I'm planning on a computer upgrade shortly, so I'll probably stick the thing in that then re-instate my LAN. If I shift all my media off the console my old 320gb drive would still provide plenty of space to play with.
Post by: run088 on July 07, 2008, 05:15:00 PM
Here is what I am using
http://shop3.frys.co...CH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
http://cgi.ebay.com/...I...N:IT&ih=009
Post by: Bomb Bloke on July 07, 2008, 11:41:00 PM
You see in one of the corners how there's a white square with four solder points in it? Yeah, that's the "jumpers".
Given that your 1TB drive works at all I'd pin the blame on the Samsung. Shoulda known it was too cheap to be worth while.
Post by: run088 on July 08, 2008, 12:12:00 AM
QUOTE(Bomb Bloke @ Jul 7 2008, 11:41 PM)
That appears to be the exact same adapter I'm using, right down to the QC Passed sticker on that big IC... Only mine didn't come in any real sort of packaging, it was just entombed in bubble wrap (probably to cut down on postage costs).
You see in one of the corners how there's a white square with four solder points in it? Yeah, that's the "jumpers".
Given that your 1TB drive works at all I'd pin the blame on the Samsung. Shoulda known it was too cheap to be worth while.
Thats not the price I paid it was on sell last week $159 free shipping.
It might have something to do with the speed of the 32mb buffer.It seems at some points the drive is moving faster than it normally does.The way it flew there a slayers build of the hdd was quite impessive.
The adapter came in a nice package but the work done on it was shotty to say the least.It has a solder bridge on it that may or may not suppose to be there and there is a couple solder splashes on the board.
It does seem to be holding up so far.I have not loaded much media to it yet because I need to find out a little more about how the debug bios operate with hdd size and limitations first.
Post by: BigPotty on July 26, 2008, 05:59:00 PM
One thing that I'd found after having this drive in my computer for a day is that it was running pretty hot. My computer is pretty high end and definitely pumps out some heat but I'm getting the feeling that this model of Samsung drive has some temperature issues.
So I'm thinking that when you have it locked up inside the Xbox, it's really not getting a whole lot of airflow and the excessive heat eventually causes the "click of death" failure.
What fan speeds is everyone running at? What's your minimum? Is there a utility for the Xbox that will show the SMART info for a drive so that I can keep tabs on it's health?
It would be great if the Xbox (XBMC) could control fan speed in relation to drive temp in addition to CPU temp. This is how I have my PC configured.
So for now I'm just running my Xbox without it's cover on. Probably not the best solution, but I really don't want to lose another drive and have to go through the whole RMA hassle again.
Maybe it's a good time for a fan mod?
Comments, thoughts, suggestions appreciated!
Post by: Bomb Bloke on July 30, 2008, 07:11:00 AM
Perhaps if you chopped a hole in the thingy the HDD is screwed into, so that the CPU fan is blowing air right into the drive?
Post by: Thracx on July 31, 2008, 10:05:00 AM
I don't want to have to worry about the SATA-PATA adapter, unless we get more definitive posts in this thread soon. Hence, I'm planning on ordering the largest PATA drive that I can - 750GB is the largest I've seen.. but I may settle for 500GB, as I've been a very happy WD-only customer since 30GB drives were considered huge (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif). I'll post any problems, or my success, as it happens.
This post has been edited by Thracx: Jul 31 2008, 05:24 PM
Post by: Eksyte on July 31, 2008, 12:45:00 PM
Post by: chiribomb on July 31, 2008, 06:14:00 PM
Here my old thread from 06
hd
I havent read this whole thread yet but since fry's have 1tb for 159 i might try it
Post by: run088 on July 31, 2008, 07:03:00 PM
On the otherhand I have a 750 gig pata and it works flawlessly so you decide whats best for you.
As far as performance they seem the same.An xbox does not ask much out of a hdd and the interface that the xbox uses couldnt use the extra speed if it did.
Post by: coolio73 on August 20, 2008, 11:40:00 PM
And, am I getting this correctly - only one person(the initial poster) was able to hook up a sata 1 TB drive w/ adapter successfully with no problems?
Post by: aerofx on August 23, 2008, 03:05:00 AM
QUOTE(coolio73 @ Aug 20 2008, 11:16 PM)
Trying to find the root cause: is the issue with the adapter or is it with using a 1 TB drive?
And, am I getting this correctly - only one person(the initial poster) was able to hook up a sata 1 TB drive w/ adapter successfully with no problems?
read his other posts, he still has problems even though they're minor.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on August 23, 2008, 09:51:00 AM
For what it's worth, one guy got his console booting using a certain adapter that I also bought. Another guy got his console booting with a drive that I also bought.
But that drive/adapter combo didn't work in my X-Box. Worked in my PC though.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on September 13, 2008, 04:02:00 AM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on September 13, 2008, 10:42:00 PM
No error code means you have a v1.0 console, yes? If that's the case, you might consider flashing your TSOP and doing away with the softmod altogether. See, the problem is that there's a good possibility that the reason it isn't working is because of the whole SATA thing (er, you did read this whole thread, right?), and a TSOP flash would eliminate most of the other possible issues.
Post by: run088 on September 15, 2008, 03:05:00 AM
Post by: daov2a on September 25, 2008, 02:18:00 PM
the xbox I previously mentioned DOES NOT yet support LBA48 (duh!). I spoke to the guy who originally modded it (it was inherited) and he was clueless on the whole thing. I asked what mod he used (Splinter Cell) but, in the end, that didn't matter. It is an xbox 1.0 and I do need to do the TSOP flash. But I have decided to skip that and give this xbox to my niece and start fresh (she just wanted it and gave me her old one, which is version 1.1 and in much better shape all around).
So, I did not want to buy any games, parts, chips, etc. if possible and did the softmod via this tutorial:
http://forums.xbox-s...o...496263&st=0 (a truly excellent and free guide! Thanks Textbook!)
Now, I've given the 1TB upgrade a shot. Copied everything over and did the xboxhdm stuff and error 13. Did a little research and found that #13 is:
http://forums.afterd...view.cfm/210562
Then did more digging and found that error 13 comes up for a lot of folks doing a HDD upgrade after the Ndure hotswap softmod. Usually, it's due to the type of softmod and you can run ndts default.xbe and then copy and do xboxhdm and all should be good. But alas, it is not. I still get error 13.
Any ideas?
Post by: reliantkcar on September 27, 2008, 04:41:00 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/...id=p3286.c0.m14
So after playing with xboxhdm and swapping his 500 gig with my 10's I put the 1tb in the xbox booted it to the stock dash fine. then i put the cover on and it constantly rebooted till i put mechassault in there and modded it again.
so after modding it the thing kept freezing on boot after many attempts but worked fine without the cover on.
so upon further investigation I found that when the case was screwed on the power cable was pushing the adapter down causing errors like 13 then 21 then 7 in random order. then sometimes it would boot to the dash (unleashed x) and the words would be all garbled.
but every time the case is off it works so first i ripped halo to the hard drive played it and it was good so . right now i'm transfering 150 gigs of data and still no problems but obviously i want to close the case and as such i'm looking for a new adapter to make this 1tb more stable than it is.
by the way the xbox is a version 1.0
the hardrive was set up with 2 469 gig 32kb cluster partitions using xbpartitioner if you'd like to know...
also does anyone know how to change the mac address since the way i changed the harddrives was to just unlock the 500 gig he had and lock it to put it in one of my spares so now his 1tb and 500 gig xbox have the some mac address so they can't be connected to transfer data at all.....
Post by: run088 on September 28, 2008, 06:53:00 AM
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16822148337
I am going to try the adapter I already have on the 1tb in my sig since it is already known to work.
Finally the possiblity of being able to store all my xbox games in one location.
Post by: minino666 on February 03, 2020, 02:34:00 PM
QUOTE(run088 @ Sep 28 2008, 03:29 PM)
We will see if this will work I got it coming in the mail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822148337
I am going to try the adapter I already have on the 1tb in my sig since it is already known to work.
Finally the possiblity of being able to store all my xbox games in one location.
Which adapter you already have on the 1tb in your sig since it is already known to work???????
Post by: run088 on February 03, 2020, 03:59:00 PM
Post by: reliantkcar on February 03, 2020, 08:20:00 PM
Post by: run088 on February 03, 2020, 09:36:00 PM
These are the things you need to watch for these are all things that everybody I have read about has had to deal with some just has the problem less than others.
Good luck
Post by: run088 on October 02, 2008, 04:07:00 PM
Post by: run088 on October 02, 2008, 09:12:00 PM
I dont think it is a problem with the adapter since people say the same adapter works just fine on the pc.I also know that the xbox has no trouble with a convertor for use of a laptop hdd.I ran one for a year with no problems.So I believe it is not an interface issue.I thought about it for a while and this is what I think.For 1 thing the adapter draws power for itself which is going to lower the amperage a little across all the components.Upon comparing the specs of the sata hdds I have which both throw the random error13 against the specs of the factory hdd.This is what I come up with.The amperage across the 5 volt lead on the xbox is within the required range of the factory hdd but the amperage of the 12 volt lead for the factory hdd is .35A the 12 volt recommended for the sata drives I have is .65A on my 1tb and .52A on the 1.5tb that is roughly double of what the old drive required.And most likely the reason for the error13 is low amperage across on start up because everything is pulling for power at once.This is my current theory.I could be wrong.
What happens when you try to deck a mod out with to many lights that draw to much power?What kind of errors does the xbox throw?Or any mods for that matter that drains the power to much and causes the xbox to malfunction?
Post by: run088 on October 02, 2008, 09:41:00 PM
It freezes up but 1.0 worked 1st try.This however will not help me since 1.0 only does 32k.I need 64k.I need to go see if xboxhdm will do 64k.I will let you all know what I find out.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on October 03, 2008, 01:09:00 AM
Anyway, some more details please! What partition sizes were you working with between the two different versions? Will XBP 1.1 refuse to create any partition sizes on the new drive, or do you only get problems when you attempt to do large ones?
Post by: run088 on October 03, 2008, 01:32:00 AM
I went back and tried again after I formatted it with 1.0 then after findiing the info about the other app as you stated I decided to give 1.1 another try and it worked or atleast seemed to work the pic is to oversized to see everything.I did notice that the app now only lets you format 1 partition at a time on 1.1 which differs from previous versions.
I have only tried to split the 1.5tb drive in half so those are the only size partitions I have tested.
The load times seem to be longer but it seems to work as good as the 1tb I have.
I tried to remove the dvd and connect the hdd to the shorter ide but the xbox would not boot.I am using 5035 and no dvd check so it should not have a conflict but it does.
I am still sticking to my theory as of now about the error13 and why it happens.Bloke what was the specs on your hdd that did not work on the xbox?Is the amperage of the hdd for the 12v alot higher than the .35a that a factory one is?
If this is the issue should not an inline cap not help it out and maybe eliminate the issue entirly?
If it will what size and spec do you suggest?
Post by: Bomb Bloke on October 03, 2008, 02:09:00 AM
I found that changing the system resolution made a difference to how well XBP fits my screen. I have to use 4:3 or it's all stretched out of shape. Mind you, I have a 4:3 TV, of course.
Statements such as "It would not do the formatting" completely fail to convey what happened instead.
I'm afraid I'm uncertain as to how to find out about the amperage stuff you're asking about. On the drive is written "0.7A, 0.5A" - I hope that's what you mean. The model is HD753LJ.
I compared this to an IDE Maxtor I used to run in the X-Box (which of course ran just fine), and that's got 0.74A and 1.5A on it. It's in my PC now (with two cooling fans piggybacked onto it's molex). 6L250R0 (a noisy and slow drive, I don't recommend it).
I'm also not sure as to what an inline cap is - Some sort of electrical filtering device best I can make out? Sort of like the capacitors used to smooth an AC wave into DC?
The way I figure it if insufficient juice is the problem, then if you were to externally power the drive from a secondary PSU prior to starting the console it should work. I suppose that'd be the easiest way to test the theory?
Post by: run088 on October 03, 2008, 02:28:00 AM
And I was talking about a capacitor.It stores voltage thats what it does then when the required voltage becomes short it sucks the juice from there they have these for ac and dc current.It just recharges when the voltage is not needed.I figured this way if the draw was to much on startup with everything pulling juice this might help out some.
And as far as not formatting the app seem to freeze up and would never let me to attempt to format.I could get it to the back menu once or twice when I tried or sometimes get it to change settings once or twice but it would freeze before I could format.
The 1.0v fired right up and did the deed.The 1.1v wouldnt work until the drive was already formatted it then did not have a problem reformatting the drive and using the needed 64k but it seemed to have the freezing problem on a fresh install.
Post by: run088 on October 08, 2008, 07:27:00 PM
Because of the way this new adapter acts it leads me to believe that the biggest issue with the problems with the mod is juice.I think the sata drive and the adapter among the other xbox components are pulling to much of the amperage from the power supply at once.
All adapters seem to work good when you get past the startup.It seems to have no problem converting the signals.Only problems on cold boots.
I tried to test this on the new adapter because at first it refused to boot in the first 30 or so tries.It started working or atleast started to pick up the ini on the hdd for 5035 because the fans started kicking up.After this when I connected it back to its own power source it began to work.I cant figure out exactly why.
Outside the big wait for the dash when you boot it seems to work just fine.
Post by: reliantkcar on October 13, 2008, 01:23:00 PM
Post by: guilmar on October 13, 2008, 03:53:00 PM
Does anybody here use another converter???
I didn't find the "SABRENT SBT-STDB IDE Ultra ATA-100/133 to SATA Port Mini Converter" here... i'm from Brazil... I only find some JMicron to buy....
Plz...?!?!?!?!?
Here one..
http://produto.merca...3-hd-cd-dvd-_JM
The website is in portuguese... but plz, take a look at the product!!
Tnx!!!
Post by: e51v50h on October 15, 2008, 06:01:00 AM
I really want to go the 1TB route but no-one seems to have posted a surefire "Yes" it will work if you do this.......
Has anyone had a 1TB drive in their box for a while with no problems??
"Run088" or "Bomb Bloke"
Could you please clear this up for me so i can get this thing upgraded as soon as possible!! I'm running out of room on my poor little 320G HD.
Thanks!!
J.
Post by: Grim187 on October 20, 2008, 09:56:00 PM
so to fix my problem for now im probably just gonna hook up a 2nd psu and leave power on for the hdd 24/7 (it will get nice and toasty), im sure there is a way to edit the bios and offset the ide device check by about 15sec i just dont know how to do this, if someone wants to give me some pointers or do it for me please pm me or check my profile for my aim, yahoo, etc.
Post by: xman954 on October 20, 2008, 11:11:00 PM
QUOTE
it turns out the ide to sata is sending back info on the drive to early in the boot process giving me error 9
maybe you can just delay the power to the adapter or hold the IDE reset line (pin 1) low for 5-10 sec using a one shot (LM555)
Post by: Grim187 on October 22, 2008, 01:59:00 AM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on October 22, 2008, 03:55:00 AM
However, I'm not all that surprised. My BIOS is the X2 5035, which tries to access the HD from the word go. Bit of a problem there. Given it doesn't just "work" in the first place that likely means a BIOS dependant solution is out (can't really offset the drive check any earlier then "first thing").
Regarding the delay circuit:
1) I'm not an electronics wizard, but I reckon it could be made without the use of ICs. Capacitors can be used as timers. Easier to get hold of those (though if memory serves that particular chip is quite a common one).
2) I still don't like the idea of delaying power to a drive connected to a live IDE cable.
Edit:
Previously I'd been thinking that the SATA drives were too slow initialising - that is to say, the X-Box would go to look for them and they wouldn't be up and running yet. This made sense in my mind given that the things are running through adaptors (which should only serve to increase latency).
But if the drive is starting up too fast, that's an entirely different story...
There are a few "types" of SATA drives. The first ones (SATA/150) "talk" at 1.5 gigabits/s. Then you've got the SATA/300 set which does double that and a relatively new version (SATA 6Gb/s) which does double that.
As a general rule if your motherboard has a SATA socket on it it's all good, but some older motherboard types refuse to work with anything faster then SATA/150. To get around this some drive manufacturers (the big three) added a jumper which allows you to limit the speed on the drive, hence making it "compatible".
In the case of my drive (a Samsung) the only way to change the speed is to plug it into a computer and use some downloadable app on it, but it might be worth checking out the specs/jumpers on the drives you guys have. It might do the trick.
Post by: xman954 on October 25, 2008, 10:51:00 AM
check the voltage on the IDE adapter side to see if it is normaly HI or LO then try conecting it to the other state while powering on and release a few seconds later
if it does work you can use a 555 as per you posted circuit (but no relay is needed)
if logic is normaly HI
just conect pin 3 to a 10k or so to the base of a NPN, emitter to ground, collector to pin 1 IDE
a diode may be needed going forward to the IDE controller in the MB (if the xbox wants to pull that line LO)
if logic is normaly LO
then just a diode from pin 3 to IDE pin 1 (also a 2ND diode going back to xbox MB)
also you could use a RC time constant directly on the ide pin 1 but the cap would quite large
use #2 if you want interupt the power..
Post by: run088 on October 25, 2008, 10:31:00 PM
I have 3 adapters 2 of them are the exact same and 1 is of a different design.
The one of a different design worked for a week but loaded ultra slow.It no longer works in the xbox I have not tried it in a pc yet.
The 2 adapters that are the same both work.The newest one I have is 100% so far as far as loading and everything else I have tried this far.I am still building the hdd but everything that I have tried this far with it is 100%.
The older of the 2 that are exact works the same way now as it did when I got it 6 months or so ago it works at around 75% of the time.When it faults it will either boot to an error13 or will show up unavailible on f or g or both.Or sometimes give a dirty disk error when loading a game from the hdd.A quick reboot or 2 would fix it everytime but it is a pain in the ass to be honest.
The one that no longer works was the kind designed to be plugged into the ide port on the mobo.
The 2 that work are the kind that plugs into the back of the hdd.I bought both the ones that work from ebay off a company called partsdomauction.Here is a link of the adapters that I have that work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...1713.m153.l1262
The only thing I noticed about the specs on the different adapters were that some would run back to windows95 and those ran as low as a 66 bus speed.
I would figure the best results would yeild from one of these types but I was unable to find one U.S. and I did not want to wait that long unless I had to.
Others like mine very.Some may only go to win98 others 2000 or xp.Some only run at 100/133 bus speed.
These I would say are why we get the hit and miss results.I could be wrong but this is all I can come up with or explain.I do know that the little timing crystal runs red hot on all the ones I have so this part might be taking the lick running at speeds it is not intended to run at.The one that no longer works if I had to guess at a failed component I would say that would be it.
What I do know is a near 100% working xbox with a sata hdd is possible because my latest adapter is running that way on either my 1tb or 1.5tb hdd or on any of the 3 different xboxes I have had it in this far.
Post by: Grim187 on October 26, 2008, 03:11:00 AM
from what i find there is 0.1v on pin 3 which is data7 right?
i tried grounding pin one on boot and using +5 with a 47k ohm (closest i have to a 10k), both attempts failed.
if you could tell me if im supposed to be grounding the reset (pin 1) or giving it power (and how much is to much?) then i can take it from there.
It seems like alot of you have havening problems, so far (ive had it working about a week) i haven't seen any problems other then @ boot, i have ftp'ed about 750gb worth of stuff to the hdd with only 2 interrupts (i just had to restart the ftp) and haven't had any problems with xbmc (using beta2) playing back from hdd or smb/internet.
i have a 1.0 flashed with IND bios, hitachi HDS721010KLA330 and this ide to sata board.
Post by: xman954 on October 26, 2008, 01:56:00 PM
QUOTE
This adapter comes with mains to molex adpater. I powered on the hard drive using this for about 2 seconds then powered on the xbox and it worked! It works everytime once the drive is fully spun up (you can hear it when it is)
maybe you could hold the xbox in reset untill the drive spins up@grim
pin 3 of the lm555 is the drive for the NPN for no relay
the IDE reset is pin 1 and it's inactive state is the level that you see when it's on
use 1k to 3.3k to the other (GND or +5) to test (check pin 1 with a meter to verify that it's actually changes when you connect the resistor)
Post by: reliantkcar on October 26, 2008, 03:13:00 PM
why is EVERYONE OVERCOMPLICATING THINGS...
Post by: run088 on October 26, 2008, 04:05:00 PM
And FYI if your xbox is flashed or chipped the only thing required is the sata hdd,the adapter and xbpartitioner.The tape is not required on any of mine either.
Post by: reliantkcar on October 26, 2008, 10:44:00 PM
my 1tb has a seagate and the adapter is some no name ebay crap....
works good though
Post by: Grim187 on October 26, 2008, 10:55:00 PM
even if the power isent connected to the adapter it will still give me 9 the first boot (after i disconnect the power) but then gos to 7 again (hdd timeout).
something weird i noticed is when the 2nd psu is connected the drive dosent actually stay on, instead during the boot process it will turn on like a normal hdd would, this leads me to believe this is actually an issue with the adapter and not the xbox or hdd.
@reliantkcar what version's have you installed them in?, what drive(s) did you use?
Post by: minino666 on October 27, 2008, 05:46:00 PM
Look at the user review
http://www.dealextre...ls.dx/sku.12537
Post by: witnessmenow on October 27, 2008, 05:58:00 PM
One cut hand and one electric shock later I figured a way of getting working
I havent the circuitry worked out yet but it shouldn't be that hard to get going
Where the PSU connects to the Mobo there is a few diffrent coloured wires (varies per diffrent version xbox i think)
With the xbox plugged in if you get a multimeter and connect one end to the black wire of the molex and test the cables you'll find which one is carrying power. On my older version xbox it was the brown wire (3.3V) and on the newer one it a orange wire (5V)
The white one on both my versions on the xbox that carries the signal to turn the the psu to active. If you plug it out from the connector to the motherboard and connect it with the cable that it is carrying the power it will set the PSU to active WITHOUT powering on the mobo. So your hard drive is powered but the mobo isnt, if you leave it for 2 seconds then press the power button on the xbox it will turn on perfectly. the white cable needs to stay connected to the power line i was talking about
The simple way of doing this is attaching the white wire to the power cable via a switch that would be routed outside the xbox, you flick the switch on then power up your xbox a few seconds later. You would need to flick this switch after you turn off your xbox too.
The best way of doing is integrating some circuitry into the power switch to look after it for you. I'll try figure out a way of doing it during the week and I'll post back.
If anyone has any questions I would happy to try answer them, but i probably wont be able to
EDIT: I use the adapter that Minino linked to, works perfectly on all my xboxs other than the TB hard drive. A good few of them have been DOA for me so always buy a spare one IMO
Post by: Grim187 on October 27, 2008, 08:46:00 PM
i still want to try the sata to ide that was suggested in the first post, if that dosent work then i will probably do the above.
edit:
all i could find on ebay was this from taiwan but it has the same chip as the one i currently have so i think im just gonna grab that one on dx.
i will round up the parts for the time delay and do some testing in the mean time.
edit2: for now i just wired up a long wired switch that i can keep near my controller (pic), to give power to the xbox without turning it on wire 3.3 standby to pwron; http://diy.sickmods....Supply_Pinouts/
Post by: witnessmenow on October 28, 2008, 06:40:00 PM
It seems these forms must be slightly busier than my regular one and that image host just wont cut it
here it is again
Edit by Bomb Bloke: Please link to bigass scrollbar causing images!
Post by: daov2a on October 28, 2008, 08:55:00 PM
The HDD I have is the one from the initial post of this forum (http://www.wdc.com/e...asp?driveid=336). Xbox is v1.2, and I am using an Xecutor 3CE mod chip with v3294 BIOS.
This HDD has jumpers on it and one is for 1.5GB PHY. When I set the HDD to this, suddenly I am able to boot in every time. Still working on the video cut out though. Wondering though if they're related. Gonna rebuild the G partition and see what happens.
Post by: minino666 on October 29, 2008, 12:59:00 PM
Thanks in advance
Post by: daov2a on October 29, 2008, 01:06:00 PM
Don't know if this will work for anyone else, but it did work for me.
Post by: ThisLittlePiggy on October 29, 2008, 03:31:00 PM
QUOTE(daov2a @ Oct 29 2008, 12:42 PM)
Well, just want to confirm for anyone listening that changing that pin setting fixed all of my issues and the HDD boots in to XBMC every time without fail and is no longer dropping movies after a random amount of time.
Don't know if this will work for anyone else, but it did work for me.
changing the HD to 1.5 was one of the first things I tried, no luck for me. still random boots.
Post by: daov2a on October 29, 2008, 06:14:00 PM
Another thing I did a while back that I did not mention that allowed more consistent booting (75% or so) in to the dash was making all of the dash files point to one place in the Xecutor BIOS, which is to say, since I boot XBMC only, I edited every dash to be default.xbe out of the five priority options. If perchance the HDD is powering on too slowly for the BIOS to quickly see the first default.xbe or is having trouble loading the partition table for some reason, it will then jump to the next and so on. Since you're booting multiple dashes, I don't know if this will work for you or if you even have a mod chip on the box but I guess it's worth a shot?
Post by: ThisLittlePiggy on October 30, 2008, 04:56:00 AM
QUOTE(daov2a @ Oct 29 2008, 05:50 PM)
What HDD and adapter are you using? And what version xbox are you using? Is it a softmod?
Another thing I did a while back that I did not mention that allowed more consistent booting (75% or so) in to the dash was making all of the dash files point to one place in the Xecutor BIOS, which is to say, since I boot XBMC only, I edited every dash to be default.xbe out of the five priority options. If perchance the HDD is powering on too slowly for the BIOS to quickly see the first default.xbe or is having trouble loading the partition table for some reason, it will then jump to the next and so on. Since you're booting multiple dashes, I don't know if this will work for you or if you even have a mod chip on the box but I guess it's worth a shot?
I used a WD 250 gig drive, a cheap $7 off ebay, and tried in 2 xboxs one tsop one softmod. I want to use it on a softmod, so I don't have the option of the multiple dashes. But that's a really good idea, since on my tsop box it usually found it by the second one. adding 2 or 3 more would most likely solve the problem.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on October 30, 2008, 05:52:00 AM
Using the same adapter that works for run088.
Using the same HD753LJ (750gb Samsung drive) that worked for BigPotty (if you choose to forget that they kept dieing on him with the "click of death").
v1.0 console with the X2 5035 BIOS flashed to TSOP. Boots to "Live config loading...." screen and then (very slowly) to an error screen (takes about 15min to get there).
Anyway, tonight I finally rigged up an external PSU and tried the delayed power-on trick.
If I start the console then power up the drive, I get a FRAG within a couple of seconds (unless I power up the drive real quick, as in, less then half a second after starting the X-Box). Still keeps on displaying "Live config loading" either way.
If I start the drive then power up the console, it also still gets stuck on the "Live config loading" screen (though the LED stays green).
Tried various time intervals between starting up either the drive or the console, ranging from about one to twenty seconds.
Drive with adapter seems to work quite well in my PC. Don't have a SATA motherboard, nor a SATA cable. Gonna see if I can get that program to that goes down to SATA/150 speed to work via the adapter, I guess.
Post by: run088 on October 30, 2008, 02:29:00 PM
QUOTE(ozreplicator @ Jun 22 2008, 07:29 AM)
Well, I moved the adapter and 1TB drive from the 1.0 unit to a 1.6 xbox - same result with slow boots and hangs.
I then tried an identical adapter I bought with the other one as a spare - this time both xboxes worked perfectly every time.
I checked the faulty adapter with a magnifying glass and found a solder bridge between 2 of the legs on the main chip on the board. This isn't present on the good one. I haven't been able to remove it yet to test, but the seller on ebay has offered to send a replacement anyway. due to the gap between the legs, the short is barely visible to the naked eye.
The soldering on these boards (even the one that works) is quite dodgy, and wouldn't be surprised if there are many more out there with similar faults. They are probably all made in the same Chinese factory no matter what brand name is on them.
Do to this post and my personal experiance I think you can buy a few of the exact same adapters and get different results with each one.I know I have.Of the 2 adapters that I have that are the same one works 75% and the other is working at 100%.The 3rd adapter I have which is of a different kind seems to work exactly like yours Bloke but it did work for around a week with terrible load times before it stopped booting at all.
Here is a link on 2 different adapters I think might have better results.Look at the specs of each on transfer rate speeds as well as systems it supports.The other listings dont have the flexibilities they only work on newer operating systems or are limited to the speeds produced at 100/133
http://cgi.ebay.com/...I...A:IT&ih=001
http://cgi.ebay.com/...I...A:IT&ih=024
Post by: Bomb Bloke on October 30, 2008, 07:44:00 PM
Post by: run088 on October 30, 2008, 09:23:00 PM
Did you look at the specs of the adapters I linked if so what do you think about those?Do you think that the flexibility of the speeds produced by these down to a 33bus and as high as a 150bus and the fact they are compatible back to windows95 will make a difference?
I am not for certain the exact speed that the xbox runs the hdd.I know that it is commonly known the xbox uses 133bus but I can not find a diagram that list the hdd speed.The processor runs at 133bus to the gpu but the gpu runs at 200 to the ram and the mcpx chip.Bunnys book gives no indicater in its diagrams I can find that clock the hdd speed if it did I missed it.
I am with everybody else as far as I think the problem is related to the speed but I dont know wheather or not for sure it is to slow or to fast.It does different things that lead me to believe it could be either way.
The best suggestion I can give anyone doing the mod right now until we figure out the exact problem in why the results very on the mod is to try several adapters.This worked for me and atleast one other person.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on October 31, 2008, 01:00:00 AM
I mean, even DOS works with RAM drives (good luck finding something faster then those).
You might be onto something with the ATA speed, I really don't know enough to say otherwise. But I seem to remember that the console should work quite happily with an ATA133 drive via an 80 pin cable.
Well, I say 80 pin - I just did a bit of research on the things and it turns out they're more correctly known as 80 "conductor" cables. Those 40 extra wires are all grounds to soak up electrical interference - that is to say, they don't add more bandwidth to your IDE bus, they add reliability. They should offer improvements to drive performance regardless of what your system is "capable of".
It's also interesting to discover that originally if you wanted to use an IDE drive you needed to get an ISA (and then later a PCI) card to do it. Eventually it was Intel who got the bright idea of sticking the controller directly onto the motherboard, but best I can make out the things still run through a PCI BUS.
I found this site to be interesting reading, though I'm not sure how much of what it covers can be applied here.
Anyway! Plugged the drive into the oldest computer I could be bothered digging out (about 600mhz on the CPU, Windows 98), FDISK'ed it, formatted it, played games off it... I think my oldest rig runs at about 133mhz, if I get bored enough I might plug into that and see what happens.
Downloaded the app from Samsung to try and force SATA/150 but it didn't work (though it did at least detect the drive through the IDE adapter). Guess I'll try and hunt down an 80 wire cable or hijack a SATA capable computer off a friend, see what difference it makes.
Dunno if you're still about BigPotty, but if you are, I hear a lot of people fixed issues with this particular drive by disabling "command queuing"...
Post by: run088 on October 31, 2008, 01:58:00 AM
Because I have 3 different adapters and 2 hdds to test with and countless xboxes laying around I think it really just is an adapter issue of some kind now.This is the part the triggers the different results for errors.It does not matter what other part I have changed my 1tb or my 1.5 tb drive or the xboxes.Only the adapter itself.And 2 are from the exact same model line and bought from the same place 6 months apart.
The same member I quoted a few post ago had the same results having 2 different adapters that were the same model bought at the same time in a package deal and 1 worked 50% and the other worked 100% on the same xbox and hdd.
There could be a compatibility issue with the hdd.Maybe somehow we should start a compatibility thread on sata hdds and adapters.Maybe you could put somekind of poll thing in a thread and hdd models can be added and just a simple yes\no\yes with problems then in the thread people could list the setup and the results.This way we might also see the pattern.Or some other way if you have a better idea.It is something that a few people seem interested enough in to make it worth while to do based on the amount of different people who have posted in the thread about it.
Post by: ThisLittlePiggy on October 31, 2008, 10:56:00 AM
Post by: witnessmenow on November 05, 2008, 05:00:00 AM
I also didn't realise that pushing the power switch grounds the one of the pins on the xbox, thats what initiates the xbox turning on so i need to change one part of the circuit.
Also My circuit after 2 seconds outputs a continuous signal rather than a pulse, which is fine in terms of turning the xbox on and keeping it on but I'll have to see how it fairs with turning it off
When I have it working 100% I'll post up the circuit diagram and some pictures.
Did any one try using just a regular switch to do the same thing? I might still include one as a backup plan
Post by: Grim187 on November 05, 2008, 02:07:00 PM
Edit: i got the sata to ide from Deal Extreme and its the same problem as the one i got off of ebay.
Post by: witnessmenow on November 14, 2008, 07:47:00 PM
QUOTE(run088 @ Oct 31 2008, 04:59 AM)
In that it sits at the x2 5035 loading screen forever and after a long period of time if it does do anything else it will error out.
I'm running into a similar problem with a standard Splinter cell method softmod. Works fine with the standard MS dash. The green blob and X come up and then it just loads a blank screen. If you press eject at this stage the softmod dash loads up fine. I cant explain why this happens, im just happy it does! Maybe the same will work for you hopefully.
QUOTE(BigPotty @ Nov 13 2008, 11:50 PM)
Hello Everyone.
Been very busy for the last few months.
Finally got around to getting my 3rd Samsung drive replaced. Samsung was such a pain in the ass to deal with! After a lot of run around, Newegg agreed to refund my money. Thanks again Newegg! No thanks goes to Samsung and your horrible quality control.
So now I have a nice new 1TB Hitachi Drive sitting here. Problem is, I'm getting the code 9 you all have been getting. This never happened with the Samsung drive. I've also noticed that I can really here the Hitachi drive spinning up over a period of about 3-5 seconds.
SO, I assume that this is too slow of a response for the Xbox. I've read about some of your current experiments with this mod. Was just wondering how things are going. I'm considering now to just buy a 750gb IDE Seagate drive instead of dealing with all of this.
That is, unless you guys have come up with some sort of solution.
Thanks to everyone for the input.
I'm using the Dealextreme adapter that has been linked to a few times and a Samsung spinpoint 1tb.
I've been using the power the hard drive first method
Things are going ok with my one. I thought I had a circuit designed to handle the delay (and i did except i hadnt fully integrated the xboxs power switch), but what i explained above your qoute has really put a dampner in that idea! I'd have to add another delay to eject the xbox, and then another delay to close the drive tray so I kinda gave up on the idea!
So for now I am just using a switch and I'm happy enough with that.
Turning on my xbox consists off:
Flicking the switch I added
After about 2-3 seconds pressing the power button
When its finished loading the green blob and X pressing the eject button
Turning off is as simple as flicking the switch i added
I have the TB partioned with a 460gb on a F drive and a G drive
when I'm FTP'n the xbox for some reason filezilla does not show this G drive
If i manually type "/g/" into the address bar when connected to the xbox it works as normal.
Other than that its working perfectly and Im quite happy with it. I have bought a few diffrent adapters to try out to see if they make any diffrence. I will post back and let you guys know if they do.
Post by: jinn on November 15, 2008, 05:59:00 AM
Tried one of them in my V1.0 TSOP flash with a ata100 or ata133 cable and all I got was was missing letters and garbage when i booted AID.
I changed the adapter and everything is working great now.
Tried the dame adapter but with the original xbox ide cable and now that adapter is working.
The only thing is it takes longer to boot and FTP seems a bit slow.
I also added some foam in the gap so the pins from the adapter wont touch the HDD.
Post by: jinn on November 17, 2008, 06:05:00 AM
Post by: BigPotty on November 17, 2008, 02:46:00 PM
Your problems are probably NOT related to the your BIOS. If you need help getting the right BIOS though, then these might help:
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t566417.html
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t365537.html
Ok everyone. I got my USB IDE and SATA adapter today. Came with it's own power supply too. Hooked up the power supply and for the first time the XBOX did not FRAG with the Hitachi drive.
A couple things I've noticed:
- Hooking up the external power supply turned on the light for the SATA-IDE adapter.
- The Hitachi hard drive did NOT spin up when I turned on the power supply but not the XBOX.
So this leads me to believe that this problem is not related to timing issues at all. Well at least not directly. Someone had suggested before that the current draw for these drives was to much for the Xbox. I think this is probably the real problem. I noticed that when I turn on my Xbox, the Hitachi drive still takes a while to spin up. The Xbox "waits" for it though.
My guess is that there is to much current draw when you first push the Xbox's power button. Sort of a surge? I'm only theorizing here as I don't know that much about circuitry.
So maybe our options here are either a low current hard drive or an upgraded power supply? Anyone have any comments?
Post by: razer1000 on November 17, 2008, 05:17:00 PM
QUOTE(BigPotty @ Nov 17 2008, 11:22 PM)
razer1000:
Your problems are probably NOT related to the your BIOS. If you need help getting the right BIOS though, then these might help:
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t566417.html
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t365537.html
thx @BigPotty ,but i think 1tb is to big for the xbox.....
question what is better, a new IDE HDD or a smaller SATA HDD
IDE (500-750GB )
SATA (500-640GB )
Post by: Bomb Bloke on November 18, 2008, 12:12:00 AM
1tb is what I'd personally consider to be the largest drive "worth" putting in an X-Box, but the real limit is 2tb.
But you were pretty vague with your description, at one stage you said "i can see the large HDD but no transfer posible", without giving any details on how you were attempting to transfer...
Post by: run088 on November 18, 2008, 11:56:00 PM
Post by: jinn on November 19, 2008, 12:09:00 AM
QUOTE(razer1000 @ Nov 17 2008, 10:07 AM)
are you sure? then i have i big problem. i have only a aladin chip (SST49lf020)
i think this chip support only 256k files or bigger ?
i tryed allready with the 4983.67 and IND5003 bios
in both bios i can see the large HDD but no transfer posible ...
Flash your TSOP with the X2 5035 or get a DUOX2 chip.
Yes is your BIOS.
I know I have tested lots of BIOS the only one that works is X2 5035 and X3 BIOS.
If you need your TSOP flashed let me know.
Post by: run088 on November 19, 2008, 01:20:00 AM
QUOTE(jinn @ Nov 19 2008, 02:45 AM)
Flash your TSOP with the X2 5035 or get a DUOX2 chip.
Yes is your BIOS.
I know I have tested lots of BIOS the only one that works is X2 5035 and X3 BIOS.
If you need your TSOP flashed let me know.
Ind works to it will allow for use of custom partitions and it is a 256 size bios that is compatible with versions 1.0-1.5 you may need to use the included ini but maybe not.It is pretty much the same thing feature wise of the 5035 but more flexible because it works on versions 1.2-1.5 where as 5035 does not unless you have a modchip with a bank of 512 or bigger installed.The ini is a bit more confusing than the 5035 but the options are all there.
I am certain that ind will work as well as 5035 these are the bios I run.
Post by: jinn on November 20, 2008, 02:28:00 AM
Use the iND bios or the X2 5035 they have a load screen before the flubber animation loads giving time for the HDD to boot up and find the dash.
Also try to change the IDE cable.
I have installed 3 1TB so far with no problems after boot. Before boot it takes about 15 sec longer to load and FTP transfers seem slower.
BTW all 3 XBOX have the RAM upgraded don't know if it makes a difference or not.
Post by: run088 on November 21, 2008, 07:34:00 AM
Thinking about it I would have to wonder about that samsung hdd.There have been so many people with that particular drive respond having problems.I can not speak on that drive because I dont own one.I can tell you my maxtor 1tb and my seagate 1.5tb work fine with the adapter I have described several times in this thread.
Post by: stogiesam88 on November 22, 2008, 05:13:00 PM
QUOTE(run088 @ Nov 19 2008, 08:32 AM)
The 1.5tb drive I have is still operating at 100% since I got a new adapter for it.I have noticed since I have bought so many different adapters because they are handy on pc's as well that a certain number of these devices are defective or go defective pretty quick.I have one that works at 75%.I have another that works 100% of the time I have been running both for quite some time and the results they give stay consistent.I have bought 2 that have been defective one that plugs directly in the port and one that is the exact mate of the ones I have that are already working.I sent one back that is like the working ones and I am getting a replacement.This one is for a pc I returned it because it was defective It never touched an xbox and was a lemon from the time I tore it out of the package and installed it in a pc.When I get it I will test the results on an xbox after I verify it works or not on a pc and report back to give us more insight at the least on this particular adapter model since I will have been able to test the results of 4 different adapters that are the same make and model with all other factors remaining the same but the individual adapter.
What adaptors are you using with 75% and 100% success?
Post by: Bomb Bloke on November 23, 2008, 03:53:00 PM
QUOTE(jinn @ Nov 20 2008, 06:04 PM)
Use the iND bios or the X2 5035 they have a load screen before the flubber animation loads giving time for the HDD to boot up and find the dash.
These BIOS types attempt to access the HDD far earlier then others... Not later. This is due to the config files they use.
Post by: stogiesam88 on November 26, 2008, 09:16:00 PM
Post by: run088 on December 30, 2008, 12:40:00 AM
http://legacy.not404...lacementXboxDVD
Post by: ninmario4life on December 30, 2008, 11:30:00 PM
Post by: karoshiga on January 10, 2009, 04:49:00 PM
I got the same WD drive with the same (Sabrent?) adapter from the first post in this thread. Hooked it all up in my secondary 1.1 version XBOX with a stock Samsung DVD, TSOP X2 5035 BIOS. Tried to boot AID 4.4, and it did boot fine. But when I made any selection on the menu as far as formatting/dash-apps install/etc, I get garbage instead of characters in the dialog boxes. If you already know what you are looking at beforehand though, you know what the processes are, so I just went ahead (especially since I had no other adapter to test with).
(Have to add also that Slayers would boot/load, but ran hella slow on that box)
The HDD seems to format fine, and I can write to it with the install disc just fine. Booting anything after the install however is another story. In that particular XBOX, the only time I was able to boot from HDD (which was ONCE, and only after using the SLAYERS disc, because the AID install would not boot from HDD) it went into EVOX, even though I had setup for XBMC as the default, and I had that setup in the 5035 config file as well. Now mind you, this same configuration for the bios boots my 2 250GB WD IDE drives just fine, and with all the color changes and boot options with no garbage from AID. I tried another IDE cable that works with any other XBOX HDD I have, and it wouldn't even boot, just a flashing red ring.
So, I put the drive/adapter combo into my other XBOX, which is also a 1.1, TSOP with 5035, and a modded LG DVD. Loaded the AID disc again. It went straight up into the bios config (which is color/no flubber changed) and boom, loaded right up. Still the same garbage in the dialog boxes though. So I tried my Slayers disc, and it booted flawlessly and ran as it is supposed to. As with the other box, I can format, copy the needed files, etc. But once the disc is out and the HDD is on its own, same problems.
Also, the only way I was able to run XBPartitioner 1.1 was straight from AID disc. After I did that, and partitioned the extra space in half for F and G, it shows up on any install disc I have in the drive, and also in FTP from the PC.
I tried formatting and copying over my C and E drives via FTP (which are all unlocked, I have never had a need for a locked drive) from any of my given XBOX HDDs, and afterward I could not get any boot at all from HDD. Never had that problem with any IDE drive I have ever used.
If I try to launch any application (be XBMC, DVDx, ConfigMagic, whatever from the HDD (when it does boot into EVOX), it just cycles back into the X2 Config screen, and then right back to EVOX.
I have a few more adapters coming next week, so I will play around with that and get back with some new info. (I also have 2 500GB IDE drives coming as well, and the 1TB WD and adapter were a Christmas present... if it doesn't pan out, I'll just throw the drive into a PC that needs it.) But I would like to get this thing off the ground someday.
Just throwing out my experience so far, useless as it may be. Maybe it can be of some help though, or at least a deterrent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
And, no, I am not going to throw out hella cash on that supposed 'Total Micro 1TB IDE drive'. I've not heard anything about it other than in this thread... and if you (or anyone else with money to burn) are so willing, then try it out and tell us your story afterward.
This post has been edited by karoshiga: Jan 11 2009, 01:00 AM
Post by: karoshiga on January 15, 2009, 02:47:00 PM
Opened up one and plugged everything up, powered on the XBOX... the XECUTER2 CONFIG LIVE LOADING screen stayed up for a little longer than before, into my color changed bios screen, then BAM, right into XBMC. YES! Even with doing the previous install on the other adapter that showed garbage on the AID dialog boxes (which doesn't happen at all with the new adapter).
Booted the box at least a dozen times after that to see if it would freeze or give an error screen, but so far it's all good.
So now I am transferring my files to the F: drive, we'll see what happens with all that later.
Thanks to all you guys for the info!
This post has been edited by karoshiga: Jan 15 2009, 10:48 PM
Post by: shloader on January 21, 2009, 05:32:00 PM
My PC on the other hand has no issues other than failing to lock.
Even though the WD10EADS seems like a good concept, I mean you can't say they suck too much power. I think Seagate 1.5TB is the better option running $129 on newegg plus the Firmware update brings their power needs in line better for the Xbox and I think I'd trust them to lock (should you need them too).
Ordered three of those adapters discussed here on ebay. They look all around handy and look no where near as cheap as those POS Sabrients. LOOK like they'll have the same chipset on them but who knows. If this fails I trade him my 750GB Seagate and compensate him the difference or something.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...1713.m153.l1262
This may turn out to be the first time I've ever failed to mod a box. And it's for a Gamestop manager... oh the shame.
Post by: karoshiga on January 21, 2009, 07:20:00 PM
The WD10EACS drive is working flawlessly for me, and it's almost packed to capacity. It also runs very cool and very quiet.
This post has been edited by karoshiga: Jan 22 2009, 03:23 AM
Post by: momomo on January 27, 2009, 07:58:00 PM
http://www.engadget.com/2009/01/27/western...nches-gets-pre/
(IMG:http://www.blogcdn.com/www.engadget.com/media/2009/01/1-27-09-wd20eads-2tb-hd-fro.jpg)
Which SATA 2 IDE convertor is mostlikely to work with one of these.
Imagine 2TB of MEdia!!!
Post by: guilmar on January 29, 2009, 09:43:00 PM
I jumped the hdd to sata 1 mode (1,5g), plug all the cables and turn on the console, BUT, appear the service error 07.
Anyone can help me with this thing?!?!?! What is the error 07?!?!? What can I do to fix it!?!?!
I saw this error when i installed a 80GB IDE drive and didn't ajust the jumper to CABLE SELECT. My sata adaptar doesn't have any jumper.... could it is the problem?!?!?
Tnx a lot!!
This post has been edited by guilmar: Jan 30 2009, 05:59 AM
Post by: guilmar on January 29, 2009, 10:34:00 PM
Tnx
This post has been edited by guilmar: Jan 30 2009, 06:35 AM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on January 30, 2009, 02:04:00 AM
However, because SATA drives tend not to be compatible with X-Boxes, odds are that's what it really means. Try plugging the adapter/drive into a PC and see what that makes of it, that's always a good start.
Post by: run088 on January 31, 2009, 08:06:00 PM
Post by: karoshiga on February 01, 2009, 10:54:00 AM
(IMG:http://webpages.charter.net/karoshiga1/000/mini-adapter1.jpg)
(IMG:http://webpages.charter.net/karoshiga1/000/mini-adapter2.jpg)
This post has been edited by karoshiga: Feb 1 2009, 07:01 PM
Post by: run088 on February 01, 2009, 09:52:00 PM
Post by: karoshiga on February 01, 2009, 10:14:00 PM
Post by: guilmar on February 02, 2009, 09:04:00 PM
Post by: cb3dard on February 24, 2009, 08:07:00 AM
http://www.dealextre...ls.dx/sku.12537
I tried four other adapters before trying this one. I ordered 2 of them and they both work flawlessly every time, just as if it were IDE. No lag time, no freezing on start. So if you're as frustrated as I once was, give this adapter a try before you decide to quit.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on February 24, 2009, 11:35:00 PM
And my 750gb SATA still sitting there unused...
*buys*
Post by: hfb3 on February 25, 2009, 04:23:00 PM
getting the box stolen, I could not duplicate the the success a second time until I replaced the 40
pin cable with an 80 pin cable. I had this problem with every xBox I tried after the first one.
Harry
This post has been edited by hfb3: Feb 26 2009, 12:39 AM
Post by: RNAsEqUeNcE on February 28, 2009, 01:55:00 PM
I bought that adaptor.
I have this HD: http://cgi.ebay.com/WD-2-5-250GB-WD2500BEV...3A1%7C294%3A200
I have a softmodded box. I'm going to either TSOP it or Modchip it soon.
When it comes in the mail in a week or so, We'll see what happens. I'm building my first media center box, and want to use all slim parts - like a HDD, DVD, and a minibox PSU.
This post has been edited by RNAsEqUeNcE: Feb 28 2009, 09:57 PM
Post by: stayhye on March 06, 2009, 05:34:00 PM
REMOVE XBOX 40 WIRE IDE CABLE, AND REPLACE WITH PC 80 WIRE IDE CABLE
I can confirm that just this alone fix the errors(9, 12, 14, 21), random freezes at xbox screen, and DVD drive not reading discs at all. 100% boot for me every time, and this is all I did after doing everything else said in this thread with no results.
also if this makes any difference, because of the way the xbox is on the inside I had to reverse the cable(meaning blue to hdd, grey to DVD, and black to motherboard.....this was the only way I got it to fit with the top on
This post has been edited by stayhye: Mar 7 2009, 01:38 AM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on March 07, 2009, 01:34:00 AM
Post by: galvanash on March 07, 2009, 03:49:00 PM
Post by: karoshiga on March 08, 2009, 11:35:00 AM
QUOTE(stayhye @ Mar 7 2009, 02:10 AM)
hey guys...I just wanted to say I have been going through the same horrors as most of you while trying to install a 1TB SATA in my v.1.6 xbox softmodded with no flashes of any kind. Everything was "sometime-ish", but I have to say I have a quick fix....this is what worked for me with the same 2 adapters that was giving me errors prior..also I am not yelling
REMOVE XBOX 40 WIRE IDE CABLE, AND REPLACE WITH PC 80 WIRE IDE CABLE
I can confirm that just this alone fix the errors(9, 12, 14, 21), random freezes at xbox screen, and DVD drive not reading discs at all. 100% boot for me every time, and this is all I did after doing everything else said in this thread with no results.
I am glad this was a fix for you, but it is not a fix across the board. The reason I say this is because I have been using 80 wire cables in my XBOX units since 2002, and I still had 2 adapters that wouldn't work for me.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on March 12, 2009, 10:52:00 PM
QUOTE(Bomb Bloke @ Feb 25 2009, 03:11 PM)
QUOTE(cb3dard @ Feb 24 2009, 11:43 PM)
I've been following this thread for some time and thought I would share my success story. After trying many different SATA adapters in my xbox v.1.6 with a Seagate 1TB HD, I've finally found one that works. It's the one recommended by witnessmenow in a previous post. This is the adapter I used:
http://www.dealextre...ls.dx/sku.12537
I tried four other adapters before trying this one. I ordered 2 of them and they both work flawlessly every time, just as if it were IDE. No lag time, no freezing on start. So if you're as frustrated as I once was, give this adapter a try before you decide to quit.
Sells worldwide, less then $10AU with no shipping costs/account signup...
And my 750gb SATA still sitting there unused...
*buys*
Yes, it took them over a fortnight to get it to me. A week of which was apparently spent waiting for their supplier to get them an item that they (also) apparently had in stock to start with.
Meh.
Anyway, plugged it in and my console rebooted three times then FRAGed. Took a closer look and realised I'd plugged the IDE cable in upside down. It had an arrow thing to line up with the bump thing on the cable, but it's on the wrong side. A missing IDE pin gave it away though.
Meh.
Flipped the cable and the console slowly staggered through the boot sequence, loading XBMC directly off the drive.
Well, I say "right to". It was slow. Swapped the 40 wire cable with an 80 wire, seems to have helped a little (maybe) but it's still slow. In fact it takes 10 seconds to boot any given XBE (I timed it). Haven't got any media on the drive to test with but playing around with XBMC's menus seemed to work alright.
So!
v1.0 console + X2 5035 BIOS + this adapter + SAMSUNG HD753LJ 750GB = working for me with loading lag (though I haven't "stress tested" it for reliability yet).
On the other hand, the same setup with this adapter does not work for me. Works fine in my PC (and for some other people's X-Box's), but not in my X-Box.
Final verdict is I'll probably look for a 750gb IDE drive, maybe use the SATA drive to hold a backup.
Edit:
I never knew this before today, but in your average molex socket are four little clip thingies used to hold the plug in nice and tight. Bumps, I guess you could call them.
In that "dealextreme" adapter, these are rather pronounced. I thought I'd need to rip the socket right off the circuit board to get that plug out of it.
I'm now missing a decent amount of fingernail, some skin, and a hunk of the bandaid I stuck over my thumb the FIRST time it got slashed.
I think I might need to file those down or something...
Post by: zx6r6 on March 18, 2009, 05:42:00 AM
After plugging in I couldnt get the xbox to boot from the dvd drive, although the hard disk showed up and formatted ok. After a bit of head scratching and fiddling I discovered at some point I'd accidently deleted the dvd boot default title from the X3 config live! DOH!
Anyways, after sorting that I've (touch wood) not had ANY issues what so ever! Boot speed is similar to my other xbox's, xbe's are fine, copying to/from the drive via ftp seems a bit slower but that may be due to network congestion.
The xbox I'm testing is a 1.4 x3 with 3294, phillips dvd, 80 wire cable and seagate 20gb 2.5 sata drive out of a 360.
I've ordered a 750g hitachi which hopefully will be with me tomorrow, I'm hoping that it being sata 2 isnt an issue with the adapter. I'll be testing it first on a tsop flashed x2 and then cromwell with Xebian installed. I'll be doing a full fresh install of xebian and then copying 320gb of videos to it.
I'll report back if I have any issues.
/crosses fingers
Post by: deathmetal on March 18, 2009, 12:35:00 PM
Here is the sata adapter that i'm using: http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=270358689483
Here is the 1TB Seagate: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16822148373
Here is the IDE Cable: http://secure.llamma...products_id=282
BTW, just to get this straight, do I format the F:\ and G:\ with 32k or 64k clusters. What has worked for you guys with the 1tb seagate barracuda? Thanx in advance.
Post by: cbagy on March 18, 2009, 07:18:00 PM
PS. by the way, im only guessing !
Post by: Alex548 on March 18, 2009, 07:29:00 PM
I went through three adapters from ebay when setting up the first Seagate hdd.
The first converter I tried booted to error 09. The second one allowed me to format/partition the hdd, but wouldn't load AID or Slayer's. It also wouldn't accept ftp transfers.
The third one finally worked, but increased booting time. It worked, but I wasn't happy.
Here's the interesting part. . . the last two SATA hdd's I had were Western Digital.
I still had those two "bad" adapters in my drawer so I thought. . . what the hell, might as well try them before I toss them into the garbage. To my surprise they both worked just fine (stock xbox IDE cable too).
I'm now beginning to think it may not be an adapter problem, but rather a hdd (firmware) issue.
I'm gonna stick with WD hdd's and should be doing another one within a couple weeks.
Post by: zx6r6 on March 20, 2009, 05:02:00 PM
The 750g Hitachi drive I ordered was a day late and me being impatient I decided to rip a 250g Maxtor out of my pc. It worked like a champ with every configuration and test I tried!
But then.....
The following day I plugged in the 750g to be greeted with error 9! I tried Cromwell, IND, X3 and M8 bios's to be greeted with similar errors. I downloaded the config tool from Hitachi and turned off the drives accoustic management and downgraded speed to Sata 1. No difference. Next I booted (from cromwell) into the Xebian live CD and tried the installer (to install to Xebian to hard disk) and sure enough it saw the drive and did a full install. After I cold rebooted it would complain about the hard disk being missing!
So, in my case it appears there's either a cold boot power surge issue or the xbox trying to boot before the adapter and disk combination is ready. (Guessing the latter as I get the flashing xmas tree before the disk has anywhere near finished spinning up)
The Hitachi 750g draws 420mA on 5v and 700mA on 12v, the problem free Maxtor pulls near double at 740mA 5v and 1500mA 12v so power cant be the issue.
Finally I plugged the molex connector from a powered usb to ide drive converter into the ide to sata converter, turned it on and after a few seconds switched on the xbox. BINGO! Installed a few apps, formatted, rebooted a few times with no probs. As soon as I reconnect the xbox power supply molex error 9.
I've yet to do any big data dumps to the drive yet but am pretty confident it'll be ok.
Next thing to do is see if I can borrow a permanent 5v &12v from somewhere on the xbox.
Post by: palentir on March 20, 2009, 08:14:00 PM
as cbagy said, if your not on cable select it can take more time booting. so if these sata2pata converters dont have cable select jumpers, maybe they taking longer to spin up and causing the error 9?
anyway i just paid for some different converters, called Sabrent.. apparently them ones work
Post by: Zudo on March 20, 2009, 08:26:00 PM
Post by: palentir on March 21, 2009, 09:16:00 AM
QUOTE(Zudo @ Mar 21 2009, 03:02 AM)
Does your SATA to IDE adaptor have the Marvell 88SA8040 chipset?
I'm not aware of any reference to that chipset on the converters i brought
Post by: zx6r6 on March 27, 2009, 05:44:00 PM
One interesting thing I noted, when powering the Hitachi drive externally only one out of four power supplies I tried would make the xbox boot without error 9 appearing, this is despite 2 of them being supplies for external drives! All had more than ample (claimed) current capacity.
I was itching to try another Maxtor so I ordered a Diamondmax 22 (STM31000340AS) 1TB drive. All i need to say is..... WAHOO!!! A drive that works out the box without ANY tinkering
Curiously though, this drive takes LONGER to spin up that the Hitachi! I've been running it 2-3 days now and have transferred approx 500gb with both the IND and X3 bios' on 2 different xbox's. I've since ordered another 3 adapters and will finally be able to replace the drives on my xbox NAS servers. One thing to note if you do order one of these, check the firmware revision as older ones can brick themselves, for reference mines got MX1A and is 'apparently' not affected.Post by: Alex548 on March 27, 2009, 06:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Alex548 @ Mar 18 2009, 07:05 PM)
I've now installed three SATA hdd's into xbox consoles the past 2 months.
I went through three adapters from ebay when setting up the first Seagate hdd.
The first converter I tried booted to error 09. The second one allowed me to format/partition the hdd, but wouldn't load AID or Slayer's. It also wouldn't accept ftp transfers.
The third one finally worked, but increased booting time. It worked, but I wasn't happy.
Here's the interesting part. . . the last two SATA hdd's I had were Western Digital.
I still had those two "bad" adapters in my drawer so I thought. . . what the hell, might as well try them before I toss them into the garbage. To my surprise they both worked just fine (stock xbox IDE cable too).
I'm now beginning to think it may not be an adapter problem, but rather a hdd (firmware) issue.
I'm gonna stick with WD hdd's and should be doing another one within a couple weeks.
I got a pretty good deal on a couple 500 gig Hitachi hdd's ($49 each shipped) so I just couldn't resist.
Like Bomb Bloke and a couple others, I also received my SATA to IDE converters from Dealextreme about a week ago. As no surprise, the buid quality of these adapters was pretty bad. They had pin headers for the IDE cable, but one was so badly soldered in, it actually looked like a smiley face instead of a straight line.Well, maybe a small grin.... Anyway, resoldering and adjusting with pliers made it workable. Those female molex connectors for the power were way too tight. It required precision screwdriver and pliers to disconnect my PSU when I was changing out cards.
Anyway. . . my results were bad. The first converter (the smiley face one) did not work at all. I booted up FlashBIOS 3.03 and it gave me a message stating it couldn't find partition table. Once I hacked the crap out of that converter to get it off, I moved to the other one which had slightly better build quality. Booted up and recognized the drive. I formatted the hdd through my AID disc, but once done it just sat there. I restarted the xbox and it just sat there after the flubber screen. Switched to FlashBIOS 3.03 and once again. . . can't find first partition table.
So I've now had bad luck with a Seagate hdd and two 500 gig Hitachi's.
Still the only brand I've had luck "out of the box" with is Western Digital.
I've ordered 4 different converters from ebay in hopes of getting these hdd's into a couple xboxes I have sitting here.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on March 27, 2009, 07:40:00 PM
QUOTE(Alex548 @ Mar 28 2009, 09:08 AM)
Those female molex connectors for the power were way too tight. It required precision screwdriver and pliers to disconnect my PSU when I was changing out cards.
After getting caught out the first time, I found that if I didn't push the plug in past the clips in the socket, it was enough to make it work and pulling the thing out was way easier.
Post by: bearcreek on March 28, 2009, 06:23:00 AM
It seems that alot of the issue is the brand of hd. Most of the people having problems are using Samsung or Hitachi hd. Now I know that there were issues with other brands but it seems as if they were able to fix the issue. Remember, not all hard drives are compatible with the xbox.
I have also noticed that some of the xboxs are old and so are the bios that they are using.
Has anyone tried using the adapters from Newegg? Maybe the cheapness of the adapters is the issue and buying one of quality would fix some of the issues.
I want to try this with a 1.5 tb Seagate drive but I am unsure on what adapter to use. I think I am going to try one from Newegg.
xbox version: 1.1
modchip: xecuter 2.3C
hard drive: Probably Seagate 1.5t
bios: 5035
adapter:Probably Rosewill RC-204
I have a 750g Seagate IDE, now but it is full.
This post has been edited by bearcreek: Mar 28 2009, 01:33 PM
Post by: karoshiga on March 29, 2009, 09:18:00 PM
QUOTE(cbagy @ Mar 19 2009, 02:54 AM)
As far as fitting the lid back down on top of your adapter without squashing it, why not fit the hdd upside down ? Couldnt honestly tell you if this would damage it in any way, never tried it, never had to.
Honestly, ever since I have been on this SATA HDD XBOX project thing, and been successful... I've had the top off the box the whole time, waiting for an XIR unit to finally surface (yes, I am lazy, I like the remote stuff).
Anyway, the XIR arrived a few days ago, and I was finally looking at the xbox and thinking "yeah, the power molex wires really do stick up quite a bit, and would probably be squashed by the XBOX lid...
So I pulled off the 'cover' of the XBOX HDD power connector, flipped the wires, put the 'cover' back on, and there you go.
The wires are fed from the bottom instead of the top, so no friction/tension.
Worked for me.
Post by: bearcreek on March 29, 2009, 11:38:00 PM
Yes, it looks like hell, but works well.
Post by: bearcreek on April 01, 2009, 07:09:00 PM
Post by: zx6r6 on April 06, 2009, 05:28:00 PM
xbox 1.1 tsop cromwell. 2 hard drives, xebian installed (was seagate 750g master, maxtor 320g slave. now hitachi 750g slave)
xbox 1.2 (maybe 1.3),tsop x2 4977, x2 4981 and Ind 5003, Samsung 605B
xbox 1.4 with x3 3294 and Ind 5003, cromwell. Also with retail bios softmod with x3 disabled. Samsung 605B
xbox 1.5 with x3 3294, cromwell and Ind 5003. Phillips drive
also a few other configurations I've forgotten
All work faultlessly (touch wood!)
The Hitachi 750gb drive wouldn't work on most of the above unless powered externally and switched on first. In my case very few (known working!) power supplies I tried actually worked. Still at a loss as to why....
On my xbox 1.1 with 2 drives the Hitachi wouldn't work as a master under any circumstances, it did as a slave though! Said xbox has been running 24/7 since with no bother. None of my adapters had the jumper blocks fitted so I had to bridge them with wire.
Now the really peculiar thing is that I couldn't get my softmodded 1.6 to work at all! The drives locked ok but would give me error 9 if powered internally or 13 externally. The files and lock were 100% ok as I used the same cd to build another ide drive to test. I used the molex (only) from the 1.4 xbox to power the 1.6's drive and adapter but still error 13.
Confused? I am!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
Anyone had any luck getting one of these to work on a 1.6?
This post has been edited by zx6r6: Apr 7 2009, 12:31 AM
Post by: dbuvid on May 04, 2009, 06:35:00 PM
Thanks in advance for anything you guys can clear up for me.
Post by: ldotsfan on May 05, 2009, 07:22:00 AM
QUOTE(dbuvid @ May 5 2009, 07:27 AM)
I actually just modded my first box yesterday by hot-swap with the UnleashX dash.
Don't think this works for softmods - you have to tsop flash your xbox first - provided it's not a 1.6. Unless somewhere in the thread somebody had success with the SATA/IDE adapter for softmods?
Post by: deathmetal on May 09, 2009, 12:30:00 PM
Here is the sata adapter that i'm using: http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=270358689483
Here is the 1TB Seagate: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16822148373
Here is the IDE Cable: http://secure.llamma...products_id=282
Post by: Endymion_ on May 15, 2009, 10:12:00 PM
Post by: capboy210 on May 17, 2009, 11:45:00 PM
Anyways, Im sure ive already posted years ago too.
But the best solution in my opinion is to use seagates 750GB IDE hard drive in conjunction with 32k clusters and proper partitions. Almost always adapters are garbage or dont work at all. Just use a trust worthy IDE hard drive such as seagates IDE 750GB model!
Post by: sjhupp on June 01, 2009, 07:26:00 AM
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8825
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12537
Anyone have success with these?
Seem like good value, and I think the second one has been mentioned before, but the first looks similar to others people have used.
Any comments?
Post by: zx6r6 on June 01, 2009, 02:23:00 PM
I've had good results with this one BUT be warned, in my experience they only work with certain drives on certain xbox's, I've had some faulty adapters aswell. Being as they're so cheap I'd order a spare just in case.
Post by: sjhupp on June 01, 2009, 07:50:00 PM
Most likely try a 1TB WD or Seagate drive.
(box is an old v1.1 with TSOP flash and INDBIOS 5003 on it, but have 2 others to try also)
Cheers.
Post by: zx6r6 on June 02, 2009, 11:18:00 AM
No shouting at me if it doesn't work for you though!
Post by: sjhupp on June 02, 2009, 07:24:00 PM
Nice to know someone guarantees it will work perfectly for me, hehe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
No doubt a couple weeks until I get the adapters, but will post results.
... I hate waiting ...
Post by: Heet on June 17, 2009, 02:01:00 AM
I came in here reading because um, a friend, wants a 2TB xbox LOL.
Looks like no sata for me
Post by: sjhupp on June 24, 2009, 10:17:00 PM
Could anyone suggest a decent (quick if possible) stress test for it? Like to do this before getting the 1TB drive installed.
FWIW I have a TSOPped v1.1 with INDBIOS 5003 and a PC samsung drive hooked up (original samsung drive not perfect reading).
Cheers.
Post by: absorb on August 08, 2009, 09:01:00 AM
I am using WD 640GB and 1TB drives
I mostly get error 21
This post has been edited by absorb: Aug 8 2009, 04:17 PM
Post by: evolancer276 on August 08, 2009, 03:58:00 PM
This post has been edited by evolancer276: Aug 8 2009, 11:01 PM
Post by: absorb on August 08, 2009, 09:38:00 PM
It seems only some xboxes will work (i just set up a 1.1 that runs flawlessly with a 640GB WD) but I have not had a particular HDD or adaptor (unless it was faulty) that wouldn't work in my main 1.6 'setup' xbox
Post by: absorb on August 14, 2009, 01:24:00 AM
Post by: whufclee on September 12, 2009, 03:32:00 AM
Using xboxhdm_1.9 I formatted the disk in the usual way and then used xbpartition to distribute the storage evenly (although it said I only had something like 475gb in drive F and G - thought it should have been nearer 495 but not to worry). I have tested it on the following xboxes:
xbox v1.0 - working although occasionally G drive isn't available and there seems to be a 50/50 success rate of booting up, if it doesn't boot it will either be an error 13 or 21.
xbox v1.1 - working really well. Only slight problem is that I occasionally get an error 13 or 21 on boot but I'd say 4 out of 5 times it boots perfect.
xbox v1.6 - same as v1.1 (although I didn't thoroughly test it, but the few times I did it seemed to be the same results as v1.1).
All the above results were based on having the lid off, if I screw the lid on then I cannnot get it to boot - think it's error 13. I am currently using v1.1 with lid placed on but not fully clipped down into place. Oh and I don't know if it helped or not but I did stick some cloth tape between the hdd and adaptor so the solder points wouldn't get earthed. Hope that helps someone out there.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on September 12, 2009, 05:31:00 AM
QUOTE(whufclee @ Sep 12 2009, 05:32 PM)
if I screw the lid on then I cannnot get it to boot - think it's error 13.
Sounds a bit like the adapter might have a loose join or something in it: it may be the lid is pushing it into a position it doesn't like.
Though it could be that the grounding is extending to the lid; perhaps if you stuck some paper between those it'd improve matters?
Post by: whufclee on September 12, 2009, 11:34:00 AM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on September 12, 2009, 05:13:00 PM
Post by: whufclee on September 13, 2009, 01:50:00 AM
Post by: absorb on September 14, 2009, 06:33:00 AM
(1) remove the lining in the lid as a rule for all sata hdd's (to give more space for the adaptor and avoid the hdd earthing)
(2) pot tweak the power supply (some don't have a pot) while listening to the fan (only on the xboxes that glitch)
I also have an after market universal (all models) psu from china that permanently keeps the light going on the hdd sata adaptor and it seems to work flawlessly so far in any xbox.
Hope that helps
Post by: whufclee on September 14, 2009, 10:00:00 AM
QUOTE(absorb @ Sep 14 2009, 01:33 PM) 
Just a couple of things I do now and it seems to give a far better success rate:
(1) remove the lining in the lid as a rule for all sata hdd's (to give more space for the adaptor and avoid the hdd earthing)
(2) pot tweak the power supply (some don't have a pot) while listening to the fan (only on the xboxes that glitch)
I also have an after market universal (all models) psu from china that permanently keeps the light going on the hdd sata adaptor and it seems to work flawlessly so far in any xbox.
Hope that helps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Thanks for the info, I'll try removing the lining in the lid although I reckon I've got a duff adaptor as even with the lid off I still get a few errors 21 or 13. Also , occaisionally my drive G isn't showing after boot - I remember reading that someone else had this problem way back in this thread somewhere but don't think anyone had any solution so I will try a new adaptor. As for a pot tweak, not sure what I'm doing there so unless anyone knows of a good guide I think I'll leave that alone. Don't suppose you have a link to the psu you're using do you?
Post by: ALLsTARz187 on September 21, 2009, 04:32:00 PM
Ok first things first..the following is my specs: Duo X2 GS modchip installed in a v1.4 version Xbox i also have an xbox compatible IDE to SATA adapter aswel for the install..My question is can i just connect this all together and run my AID disc for the install? i know i have to adjust cluster sizes and stuff and i dont have a clue as to what that is or were to start? if anyone can help me with this step by step if possible that would be bluddy awsome!!
Post by: Bomb Bloke on September 21, 2009, 05:52:00 PM
Once that's done, all partitions larger then 256gb need to be reformatted using XBPartitioner. You'll need a compatible BIOS for this, X2 4981/5035 work, as do a few others.
Post by: ALLsTARz187 on September 21, 2009, 06:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Bomb Bloke @ Sep 22 2009, 11:52 AM)
Yeah, just throw it all in and use your AID disc for the initial format/install.
Once that's done, all partitions larger then 256gb need to be reformatted using XBPartitioner. You'll need a compatible BIOS for this, X2 4981/5035 work, as do a few others.
Thanks for the fast reply and shedding some light on this for me bomb Bloke! will dive in and do what you suggest and see how i go...to be honest its the reformatting using XBPartitioner and the compatible BIOS part thats got me scared because its unchartered territory for me lol Thanks again bro your help was much apprieciated!
Post by: Mr.Slim on September 22, 2009, 01:14:00 AM
-I bought it off ebay its a sata 1TB
and I think its bad because it wont let me format it with slayers 2.7
when it gets to formatting it, The hdd kinda sounds like its skipping, like stays stuck when slayers is formatting or adding stuff to the E and then the
:new hd rebuild: just finishes way before it really should. Never gets its all done.
Post by: obcd on September 22, 2009, 01:35:00 AM
Pretty much all modern harddisks have such a tool available for them.
regards.
Post by: ALLsTARz187 on September 22, 2009, 11:42:00 PM
Post by: whufclee on September 23, 2009, 01:51:00 PM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on September 23, 2009, 05:50:00 PM
QUOTE(whufclee @ Sep 24 2009, 03:51 AM)
I also had about 50gb short of 1Tb with my WD10EADS Green HDD but I can live with that - tried having 32 clusters spread over F:& G: then tried 64 clusters with just one big drive F: but still the same.
The hard drive manufactorers would have you believe that 1tb = 1,000,000,000,000 bytes. According to the SI standard, they'd be right.
However, computers don't use the SI standard for measures of storage capacity. Instead of changing units every 1,000 bytes, they do it every 1,024 bytes (two to the power of ten - an easier number for a binary based system to handle).
So 1tb = 1,099,511,627,776 bytes.
And 1,000,000,000,000 bytes = ~930gb.
Cluster size won't change these figures: That just affects how efficiently the space gets used. The same amount of space effectively holds less data as you crank the cluster size higher and higher.
Post by: ALLsTARz187 on September 24, 2009, 12:47:00 AM
check out the link to see pics of my SATA to IDE adapter installed and my G&F drive ..ya have to register to see the pics...sorry hopefully im not standing on any ones toes regarding the link..just trying to help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
http://www.XS Filter -/html/postt25190.html
BIG ups to geeks an freeks for the useful info!! dont get mad im officially one myself now lol
UNITE!!
oh stink..the link dont work on here? owel... to bad i cant upload my pics to show you guys..never mind goodluck with your projects dudes and thanks for the help cheers!
Post by: Raverrevolution on October 10, 2009, 02:35:00 PM
I want to thank everyone who experimented with this and I believe this should be a sticky topic as I wouldnt be surprised others would want to search for this.
Post by: whufclee on October 12, 2009, 03:32:00 AM
QUOTE(Raverrevolution @ Oct 10 2009, 09:35 PM)
Seriously, sorry to rehash this old topic, but I have literally read all 14 pages of this in the interest of wanting to do this mod. I have a friend wanting an xbox media center with a 1tb sata. So far what Im getting at is that you generally want to go with a WD 1tb hard drive and that red sata adapter from deal extreme.
I want to thank everyone who experimented with this and I believe this should be a sticky topic as I wouldnt be surprised others would want to search for this.
Well I can confirm that's what worked for me and it's running great - I can't notice any difference in speed, the xbox is working just as well as it was on my old IDE drive but with 1tb to store all my files in. I since found a site which has a table of compatible hdd's for xbox which might be of use here. If you enter the size of the drive you want (eg 1000) it will show a list of drives (in this case 1tb in size) and whether or not they are compatible. Looks like the cheap Hitachi ones are compatible too - if you're in the UK they are going cheap on ebuyer at the moment.
Post by: firefighter1023 on November 01, 2009, 08:30:00 AM
Post by: scullc on November 04, 2009, 02:05:00 AM
I hardly noticed any speed delay - oh happy days.
Therefore thanks to all those who have mentioned success with that adaptor.
This post has been edited by scullc: Nov 4 2009, 10:06 AM
Post by: ABuNeNe on November 07, 2009, 09:16:00 PM
Was trying to find out ways other then wasting time FTPing G drive data drive back and fore but in vain. Nearest I got is using Xplorer360 but it can't detect my unlocked drive on my PC.
Gave up and revert back to using the PATA HDD. Maybe will try this again when I get a 1/2 TB SATA HDD. Hope there will be a better way to transfer data when upgrading Xbox HDD either on PC or Xbox console soon.
This post has been edited by ABuNeNe: Nov 8 2009, 05:35 AM
Post by: firefighter1023 on November 10, 2009, 04:12:00 PM
WD 1TB Drive, Deal Extreme SATA/EIDE Adapter, v1.0 xbox, X2 5035 Bios TSOP.
When I installed the drive I formatted with XBpartitioner 1.1 with 64kb clusters, all installed on F:, everything was recognized beautifully. I have copied approximately 300gb of game data to the F:, at this point the drive will no longer allow anymore data to be written to the drive. I get a failed transfer/copy even though XBMC and DVD2Xbox show's 640+gb is still available. I get failed transfers now in XBMC, DVD2Xbox and FTP.
Any idea's? The only thing I could imagine is I didn't format with 64 but 32 instead, thinking I did 64kb. IS there any way to check? Rerun XBpartitioner?
Post by: firefighter1023 on November 10, 2009, 04:38:00 PM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on November 10, 2009, 10:27:00 PM
To check your cluster size, boot the EvoX dash and note what it says about the free space on F. Add a single file to that partition (10kb or smaller), and subtract the new free space figure from the old. The result, divided by 1024, is the cluster size in kilobytes.
XBP 1.1 doesn't allow you to choose the cluster size. It chooses for you based on the size of the partition you're making. Note that previous versions of XBP do give you a choice, but don't let you use 64kb clusters.
Post by: firefighter1023 on November 11, 2009, 06:13:00 AM
QUOTE(Bomb Bloke @ Nov 11 2009, 05:27 AM)
XBMC etc are talking about free space available on your partitions. XBPartitioner is talking about the total amount of drive space that isn't assigned to any partition at all.
To check your cluster size, boot the EvoX dash and note what it says about the free space on F. Add a single file to that partition (10kb or smaller), and subtract the new free space figure from the old. The result, divided by 1024, is the cluster size in kilobytes.
XBP 1.1 doesn't allow you to choose the cluster size. It chooses for you based on the size of the partition you're making. Note that previous versions of XBP do give you a choice, but don't let you use 64kb clusters.
Is it possible that XBpartitioner changed the partition table but didn't format the partition? I would think if this happened, applications would think there is a 900gb+ partition available, but can't write to it after a certain point if it wasn't formatted properly. The only reason I mention this is I read another post where someone ran XBP, it sounded as if it allowed him to change the partition table but he didn't realize he would also then need to format as a second step and that the cluster/format wasn't in a single step.
I'm moving all my data off of the drive right now while I'm at work. When I get home I will try your method to check the cluster size. Then I suppose I'll try a reformat with XBP again and see what happens. Preferably I will just have a single F partition, but if need be I'll split it across a couple.
Thanks for the help Bomb Bloke. I'll reply back with my results in the hope it may help someone else.
This post has been edited by firefighter1023: Nov 11 2009, 02:14 PM
Post by: firefighter1023 on November 12, 2009, 08:02:00 PM
Ok, I offloaded the data that I had on the F partition. I then formatted again with XB Partitioner 1.1 but instead of creating one enormous F partition I spread it evenly across F & G. I reloaded the data then resumed ripping games back to the HDD. So far so good. I haven't had another error where the file system denied copying files thinking that the partition was full when it actually was not.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on November 13, 2009, 02:30:00 AM
QUOTE(firefighter1023 @ Nov 11 2009, 09:13 PM)
Is it possible that XBpartitioner changed the partition table but didn't format the partition?
Something along these lines is possible. I've heard reports where if you tell it to format a partition that you haven't changed the size of, it simply won't bother.
All I can really recommend is to do the EvoX test I mentioned early on, to avoid nasty surprises later.
This post has been edited by Bomb Bloke: Nov 13 2009, 10:31 AM
Post by: psyman on November 18, 2009, 04:15:00 PM
Post by: scullc on November 21, 2009, 01:51:00 AM
QUOTE(psyman @ Nov 19 2009, 12:15 AM)
does anyone know where I can get a compatible sata/ide convertor in the UK?
i have a spare one here in the UK. Its not the deal extreme one (some generic one i got off ebay). but it works - but boot time is nearly 1 min. The Deal extreme one is much superior.
Anyhow if you want it - its (basically) free! Just cover the cost of postage.
PM me your details
Post by: gugutz on November 25, 2009, 06:35:00 AM
Now i'm choosing between a Samsung 1.5tb and a Seagate 1.5tb
Any of you guys know if anybody have been lucky with these two manufacturers?
As soon as the HD gets here i'll test and input here later my results.
Post by: firefighter1023 on November 25, 2009, 01:26:00 PM
QUOTE(gugutz @ Nov 25 2009, 01:35 PM)
Finally, after more than 1 month, my SATA to IDE conversor from Deal Extreme got here! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Now i'm choosing between a Samsung 1.5tb and a Seagate 1.5tb
Any of you guys know if anybody have been lucky with these two manufacturers?
As soon as the HD gets here i'll test and input here later my results.
Please do, I've been successful with my 1tb WD but with prices coming down rapidly as usual I'm curious to look at a 1.5 or 2tb. Hell, I might just purchase two drives, remove the DVD drive and put them on a switch.
Post by: gugutz on November 30, 2009, 05:16:00 AM
Anybody had sucess with Seagate, more specifically?
Post by: psyman on December 09, 2009, 10:34:00 AM
Post by: Xmodder deluX on December 09, 2009, 11:01:00 AM
Post by: lithium210 on December 09, 2009, 11:47:00 AM
Post by: pigman006 on December 10, 2009, 07:33:00 AM
QUOTE(gugutz @ Nov 30 2009, 12:16 PM)
But did anybody so far had any sucess with hard drives that weren't Western Digital?
Anybody had sucess with Seagate, more specifically?
ive been using a 1.5tb Seagate barracuda since they were first available, i get the occasional error 9 but other than that it works perfectly
Post by: gugutz on December 11, 2009, 04:14:00 AM
QUOTE(pigman006 @ Dec 10 2009, 12:33 PM)
ive been using a 1.5tb Seagate barracuda since they were first available, i get the occasional error 9 but other than that it works perfectly
Thanks for the input bro.
My 1.5tb Seagate Barracuda got here yesterday, but its freenzing even in my gf's PC (using the DX adaptor, her PC doens't have a sata port).
At first i transfered 50gb of data to it without problems, but when i tried to get it back to my notebook it would freeze the whole system and i had to disconect the HD and connect again for windows xp to boot again.
In the xbox, i get error 7 all the time (hd timeout), and can't boot into Slayers Auto Installer.
I'll try to see if i can fix this problem (might have to exchange the hard drive), and add my input here later.
Meanwhile, anybody that have a clue on this issue please input on the topic i started in this subforums.
Thanks in advance.
Post by: djd2 on December 23, 2009, 08:23:00 AM
So I ordered a SATA -> IDE converter from DealExtreme 4 weeks ago, never showed up sent email blah blah... not the point here. Gave up and ordered a Sabrent (Sabrent IDE Ultra ATA-100/133 to Serial ATA (SATA) Port Mini Converter - Model #: SBT-STDB) from TigerDirect. It has a striking resemblance to the DealExtreme one... but i actually received this one, so that made it better, but it is also 4 times the price, and no free shipping... but i received it. (From what i read on this and other topics, i guess it is still possible to receive the DX one... but i am not holding my breath)
So i install it, popped in Slayer 2.7 (I am an old school guy) and worked first shot doing an upgraded HD rebuild. Adaptor had to go on the "Cable Select" setting (2 jumpers needed, only one supplied) I used a 500 GB to start, and a 1TB to finish (Used both for test purposes) FYI i ordered this SATA -> IDE first (http://cgi.ebay.ca/IDE-TO-SATA-SERIAL-ATA-BIDIRECTIONAL-CONVERTER-ADAPTER_W0QQitemZ200341052967QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea541de27) And it DID NOT work in my xbox's (1.0, 1.5 and a 1.6), but it did work in a PC.
Hope this helps someone, as i ordered from 3 places, received from 2, and only one worked.
Now i also asked this question in the other forum as well. I downloaded AID 4.5, so i could get all the new fancy tools, and i would like to know on a 1TB drive, should i split the 900+ Gb into 2, 450+ drives (F&G) and use 32k clusters, or leave it on 900+ (F) and format with 64K clusters?? Just curious as to what the general consensus is. I read alot about each and not sure which route i should go. One of ths posts in this topic said (By firefighter1023) that one large partition of 900+GB caused him some grief, and 2 of 450+GB seemed to work better. I think i will go with the 2 partiotions of 450+... but does anyone have a 900+ working well and no issues?
Thanks in advance, and happy freakin holidays!!
D2
Post by: Bomb Bloke on December 23, 2009, 05:00:00 PM
A smaller cluster size allows you to cram slightly more stuff on the drive, but obviously it's easier to organise your stuff on one large partition rather then two small ones. It's entirely up to personal taste at the end of the day.
Post by: Sleel on December 25, 2009, 10:07:00 PM
-Kris
Post by: Bomb Bloke on December 25, 2009, 10:14:00 PM
Post by: aidhog on January 06, 2010, 11:10:00 AM
Some notes:
- Adapter took over a month to arrive.
- Using standard XBOX IDE cable
- Was using an EvoX boot disk
- ...which was a real f**king pain with my non-tweaked dying Thompson drive; was using a Mitsubishi Black Diamond 1x-18x DVD-R which would load in EvoX and XBMC run from my old HD, but not at boot up with the new drive presumably because of the extra current draw spinning up the HD; eventually, at attempt number 38 the disk loaded on boot-up
- Also, had to set the adapter to Cable Select so that the XBOX would not FRAG before checking the DVD drive
- ...diagram on the board; there were no jumpers with the adapter, so had to rob two from old drives you could probably just use wires
- The IDE cable will fit both ways into the adapter so be mindful of putting it in correct way up...
- ...look for the missing pin the full row of pins on the adapter fits into the row closest to the "lump" on the IDE socket
- That said, plugged in relatively easily
- Format took from the EvoX boot disk no problem
- Loading takes about 3-10 seconds longer when booting EvoX/XBMC (varies)
- Formatted with XBpartitioner 1.0 giving ~997GB to F/ and ~996GB to G/
- Keep both under 1tb, otherwise XBpartitioner 1.1 will crash on next step; keep both different from final intended sizes you need to change the partition size of both F/ and G/ on the next step, otherwise XBPartitioner 1.1 will not bother doing the 64k cluster formatting.
- Easiest way to do this AFAIK is to set all of the space on one partition (press A until all of the space is given to F). Decrease F just below 1000GB THEN increase G with the rest (L/R triggers). Press Start!
- Keep both under 1tb, otherwise XBpartitioner 1.1 will crash on next step; keep both different from final intended sizes you need to change the partition size of both F/ and G/ on the next step, otherwise XBPartitioner 1.1 will not bother doing the 64k cluster formatting.
- Formatted with 64k clusters in XBpartitioner 1.1 giving equal space to both
- Be careful not to change any partition above 1TB or XBpartitioner 1.1 will crash. XBpartitioner 1.1 will kindly detect that F/ and G/ need 64k clusters and will format (again, as long as the partition size of both F/ and G/ have changed, otherwise it won't bother). When formatting, it should clearly say that it is formatting each partition with 64k clusters.
- Easiest way to do all this AFAIR: Press B then Start!
- Be careful not to change any partition above 1TB or XBpartitioner 1.1 will crash. XBpartitioner 1.1 will kindly detect that F/ and G/ need 64k clusters and will format (again, as long as the partition size of both F/ and G/ have changed, otherwise it won't bother). When formatting, it should clearly say that it is formatting each partition with 64k clusters.
I've not written beyond the dreaded 127/256/512GB point, but I'm confident it'll work. I have written some stuff to all partitions. The only persistent 'problem' is the slightly slower load times.
Hope this helps someone or other.
Post by: bearcreek on January 06, 2010, 11:36:00 AM
Post by: aidhog on January 06, 2010, 01:15:00 PM
Yep, had a similar problem — back in more innocent times — with a 320GB harddrive not formatted in 32k clusters. Found out the painful way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
I will make sure to double check (load on a <1kb file, check the change in free space in EvoX divided by 1024 which would equal the cluster size), but since I made the partitions different sizes between XBP 1.0 and 1.1, I should be sorted (I hope).
This post has been edited by aidhog: Jan 6 2010, 09:42 PM
Post by: aidhog on January 06, 2010, 05:49:00 PM
QUOTE(aidhog @ Jan 6 2010, 09:15 PM)
I will make sure to double check...
Yep. All clear... Now the hard part: filling this bad boy.
Oh yep, and finally cheers to those who experimented with adapters and written about their experiences and to those who've written various pieces of code needed (you know who you are).
Appreciated!
Post by: jinn on January 09, 2010, 11:20:00 PM
Post by: Boomin Newman on January 10, 2010, 10:40:00 PM
I picked up a 1tb Seagate Barracuda (ST31000528AS) and got the dealsextreme converter from a Australian site http://www.gadgetsdirect.com.au/index.php?...products_id=276 (Still took over a month to arrive)
I hooked it all up and made 1 big F drive with E having about 5gb and C having around 500mb. It's been about a month and i have not had a single problem... i do have to add that ive only filled about 150 to 200 gb's so far. It's harder than i thought trying to fill it up and test it ahah
QUOTE
Dont forget to check that it formated in 64k clusters with the evox dash. It sounds like you are about to make the same mistake I did judging by your partition sizes in xbpartitioner 1.0. You have to change the partition size in xbpartitioner 1.0 different than what you are going to use in xbpartitioner 1.1 or it will not format in 64k clusters, even though it says it did. I got about 600 gb on my hd and things started to corrupt, so I had to reformat after 3 or 4 days of uploading. As for the slow or no booting issue, it seems to do it less the more info on the drive, not that is a problem, it only happens once about every 5 or 6 days, if that. So anyhow, double check that it actually formatted in 64k clusters.
This post scares me.. How can you check that it is formatted in 64k clusters. I just remember reading for xbpartitioner 1.1 that it set's the cluster size by it's self based on how much space is going to whatever drive.
Post by: bearcreek on January 11, 2010, 06:14:00 AM
Divide the results by 1024, and you have the cluster sizes in kilobytes.
This is quoting Bomb Bloke from another thread.
Post by: Boomin Newman on January 13, 2010, 02:41:00 AM
QUOTE(bearcreek @ Jan 12 2010, 12:14 AM)
Use the EvoX dash to check the cluster size. To do this, run it then note down the free space for F/G. After this, add a single file (10kb or less) to each partition, and subtract the new free space figures from the old.
Divide the results by 1024, and you have the cluster sizes in kilobytes.
This is quoting Bomb Bloke from another thread.
Im just reading this now with only 300gb left of the 1tb.. So does that mean im alright and dont have to check the cluster size or have i got it confused with somthing else i read?
Post by: bearcreek on January 13, 2010, 07:36:00 AM
Post by: Sleel on January 13, 2010, 08:08:00 AM
QUOTE(Bomb Bloke @ Dec 26 2009, 12:14 AM)
If you have F and G partitions, XBMC'll display 'em, otherwise it won't. It treats them as two separate partitions, if that's what you're asking.
Thanks for the reply; sorry for the delay, I lost the link for a while. So, has anyone posting/lurking here had any luck with the WD green 1.5 TB drives? I am a bit concerned with the high failure rate with most of the 2 TB drives on the market. Also, some very good posts lately. My thanks to all who contribute.
Post by: bearcreek on January 13, 2010, 09:11:00 AM
This post has been edited by bearcreek: Jan 13 2010, 05:14 PM
Post by: Sleel on January 17, 2010, 04:43:00 AM
Post by: bearcreek on January 17, 2010, 08:39:00 AM
And yes they are not big on responding. I hope you ordered a couple of them because in my experience one may work on your xbox and not work on another xbox.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on January 17, 2010, 05:34:00 PM
Post by: Boomin Newman on January 17, 2010, 09:48:00 PM
Not sure if this help's but you have to be patient with the boot disc. Mine will sit their doing nothing for like 2 mins before it starts to boot it up.
Post by: bearcreek on January 18, 2010, 09:17:00 AM
This post has been edited by bearcreek: Jan 18 2010, 05:19 PM
Post by: Bomb Bloke on January 18, 2010, 06:26:00 PM
Post by: Pulsemasta on January 18, 2010, 09:04:00 PM
QUOTE(Bomb Bloke @ Jan 19 2010, 02:26 AM)
I use 5035 where ever possible. Too large for 1.2 through to 1.5 TSOPs.
Do you know if you can use a 1TB sata with a debug setup??
and I know you can install a debug dash but can you flash the debug dash making it essentially a full out debug system?? or is that not how flashing works?
Post by: Bomb Bloke on January 18, 2010, 09:13:00 PM
How much of the drive space is usable depends on the BIOS. In a "true" debug system, a 1tb drive will be mostly inaccessible without either reflashing the console or using the Phoenix BIOS Loader to get the system out of debug mode (assuming PBL can even function in the debug environment. Dunno if it can).
Dashboards are programs installed on the console's HDD. BIOSes are stored either in the motherboard's TSOP chip, or in a modchip. You flash BIOSes, you install dashboards.
Post by: Sleel on January 19, 2010, 06:43:00 PM
and it worked like a charm. From start to finish was about 45 min (including burning time). I know that I'm way below the curve on this stuff, but I hope this is still of use to someone.
(PS I'm sure this method is listed on this forum somewhere, but this link is where my searching brought me first)
Post by: karoshiga on January 20, 2010, 09:55:00 PM
So much that I will probably buy another same or larger HDD for my other box that currently is swapped between 2 500 GB IDE drives.
When you can get it to fly, it really is nice.
Post by: Suicidal Dreams on January 24, 2010, 01:05:00 PM
I've read through just about every page, and it seems like there is finally some success to this, but i notice that pretty much everyone is using TSOP or a chip.
Is there any hope for this working on 100% softmods?
Well done to all involved, and thank you for your work.
Post by: Bomb Bloke on February 02, 2020, 06:29:00 PM
Post by: OGREIUS on January 28, 2010, 06:45:00 AM
XBPARTIONER WILL DO A 2TB HARD DRIVE THATS THE BIGGEST IVE DONE SO FAR
AND ON SOFT MODDED
I USED NDURE AND EVOX WITH XBMC AS THE DASHBOARD
Post by: Womi on January 28, 2010, 01:33:00 PM
I want to put a spare 500GB Western Digital SATA I HDD in my 1.6 XBox (DuoX2 with X2 5035 bios).
So I bought a SATA -> IDE Adapter that was confirmed to work here.
It's this one: http://img709.images...21/22000189.jpg
Put everything together. Startup was slow and after a few tries AID 4.50 managed to boot and formatted the HDD successfully. Copied XBMC to the HDD, rebooted.
Now it either shows error 13 or loads the dashboard 'frame by frame'.
It takes like 5 minutes for the boot screen to slowly fade away and for parts of the dashboard to appear.
AID shows cryptic symbols in it's message boxes too.
I thought this is probably the fault of the adapter. So I ordered the Deal Extreme one: http://img23.imagesh...ealextremem.jpg
But it shows exactly the same behavior. Master and Cable Select jumper setting made no difference (Slave didn't boot at all).
Also a 80pin IDE cable and an external power supply didn't help either.
Any suggestions?
Post by: Neptune on January 31, 2010, 05:05:00 AM
QUOTE(Cappi @ May 8 2008, 03:13 PM)
I have found that SATA drives never work out in xbox's. They cause the xbox not to work, and then work other times, and kill other components such as the dvd drive. Usually the hard drive dies after a month. It causes needless headaches so I refuse to use another sata HD in an xbox or computer.
Yes I am replying to an old ass post but...
Or computer???? LOL
IDE is removed from new PC's period. SATA IS the future.
Post by: Neptune on January 31, 2010, 05:18:00 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item3359b6d525
Will let you know. $9 and free shipping. Woot.
Post by: curious_george on April 22, 2010, 04:03:00 AM
Firstly, I backed up the C and E partitions of my old drive (a reliable but noisy Seagate 500GB IDE) for later FTP'ing across, to preserve all my save games, dash settings etc. Well worth the effort.
I used one of the more likely converters (http://mediagate.pbw...rter_Adapter_(1).jpg) after prepping the drive using XboxHDM. I was sure not to let the program set up an F or G drive as it doesn't allow for the larger cluster sizes needed.
After a flawless prep, I dropped the drive into the Xbox with the converter. To my complete amazement, it booted into UnleashX first time. And then I switched off and tried again, same result: booted right up, no error messages. FTP'ed a few files across, RARs, and was able to extract with no corruption, so I then booted the Ndure Toolset (usually found as Default.xbe in E:\NDTS), wiped the C and E partitions of the new drive and transferred my backups across. Once again, after a power on it booted right up, this time directly into XBMC with only a slightly longer delay; the splash screen showed for about a second more. Hardly a lot of lag!
Following advice about the tempremental nature of the XBPartitioner software, I first ran XBPartitioner 1.0 to build my extended partitions. Originally I wanted to have three seperate partitions - F, G and H each formatted with 32k clusters so as not to waste space - but this doesn't seem to be allowed for in any version of NKPatcher so I just chose two partitions, each 711.5 GB or 684.86 GB depending on how you group the bytes. You do this part in XBPartitioner 1.0 because there is a bug in 1.1 that hangs the console if you have partitions of over 1TB, even if it hasn't been allocated yet. When the formatting is done with 1.0, fire up 1.1 and press start to have the two new drives formatted with 64k clusters - this is ESSENTIAL, do NOT skip this step otherwise when you get past the 512 GB point you will start to have invisible data corruption, which could potentially ruin all those hours transferring media files across.
When this is done, you can boot back to the main dashboard. I used the In-Game Reset (Black, Back, Both Triggers all at once) to take me back to XBMC. This time it took about three or four seconds before I saw the splash screen, but it disappeared much more quickly, so not that much longer overall. I'm assuming this is because of the time it takes to read the partition table, which on a larger harddrive is bigger and therefore will take a little longer. For the extra capacity you get, it's worth it!
With all these checks done and no problems at any step, it was time to see if the case could be screwed shut without pushing the SATA to IDE converter out of shape. With a little gentle bending of the harddrive power molex, using the IDE cable clipped in place on the cradle to hold it down, I was able to get the case to snap shut as standard. After screwing it all back together, I plugged it in and was delighted to find it still worked, and that the CPU/GPU temps were lower, presumably because there's less heat in the case with this Samsung SATA drive.
FTP performance is standard; I'm using XBMC's built-in Filezilla, and transferring to it with the PC client version of the same. It averages ~5-15 MBPS, which is the same as the drive it replaced and the original 8GB Seagate that came stock with my Xbox. I've had the drive constantly being written to, transferring hundreds of MP3 files for the last couple of hours, and the temperature has yet to get above ~30ºc. In addition, the CPU temp is ~45ºc, the GPU is ~41ºc. - even with the fan on the lowest setting (2% in XBMC). Of course this is with the Xbox out in the open, sitting underneath the television - when I put it back under the bed with all the soundproofing it'll run a bit hotter, but either way this really helps the longevity of both the drive and the Xbox, which by now is eight years old.
Anyway, I'm happy to report that modern SATA drives can work very, very well in the old Xbox consoles if you choose a good one, and couple it with the right converter. Sure you still have the ATA33 bottleneck which increases the amount of time it takes to transfer files, and you are still bound by the 64 character limitation of the FATX filesystem (watch out for this when copying music files which don't have the track numbers at the start, for example!) but overall, this is a good solution for having a lot of standard definition content in one place. I have yet to watch it fail to boot!
Post by: Bomb Bloke on April 22, 2010, 07:46:00 PM
QUOTE(curious_george @ Apr 22 2010, 06:03 PM)
When the formatting is done with 1.0, fire up 1.1 and press start to have the two new drives formatted with 64k clusters - this is ESSENTIAL, do NOT skip this step otherwise when you get past the 512 GB point you will start to have invisible data corruption, which could potentially ruin all those hours transferring media files across.
Also note that XBPartitioner (any version) will not format a partition unless you're setting a different capacity at the time. For example, if you create a 711.5 GB partition in XBP 1.0, then tell 1.1 to format it again at the same size... Nothing'll happen. You'd need to set a different capacity for each format.
It's well worth confirming the right cluster size has been used before loading data onto the relevant partitions. Load the EvoX dash, check the free space on each, then transfer a single file (10kb or less) onto them. The change in free space, divided by 1024, is the cluster size.
QUOTE(curious_george @ Apr 22 2010, 06:03 PM)
you are still bound by the 64 character limitation of the FATX filesystem (watch out for this when copying music files which don't have the track numbers at the start, for example!)
42 characters. Doesn't really matter all that much with MP3 files, thanks to ID3 tags.
Post by: Harryt223 on May 10, 2010, 04:19:00 PM
I got a rare Xbox Crystal Version.
Someone was saying since it was newer it allowed larger hard drives?
Don't know, but anyways...
I am looking to get a 1TB Hitachi Deskstar HD31000 SATA
And, I'm not sure about the adapter for the sata/ide.. seen some on ebay, but they are fairly cheap priced.
I hope the Hard drive will work with this upgrade?
Post by: Harryt223 on May 12, 2010, 11:07:00 PM
I just got a new 1TB SATA drive mainly for the xbox. It was on sale!
I don't really need one for my PC, could use it but I'm not desperate on space right now.
So, I'm wondering if it's worth it or not. I'd hate to get the adapter and then open the HD and find nothing works properly. I guess if I had a spare drive.. it would be neat to try it out.
I'm slowly getting to the point of returning/canceling my order for the new HD.
I wish IDE drives were much cheaper....
Post by: Endymion_ on May 16, 2010, 05:29:00 AM
QUOTE(Harryt223 @ May 10 2010, 06:19 PM)
Some good info here.
I got a rare Xbox Crystal Version.
It's not that rare. These things were everywhere in Canada. They're pretty damn spiffy though, I've got two.
QUOTE
Someone was saying since it was newer it allowed larger hard drives?
This was someone's belief, but while it is correct, it isn't the only one that will work with large drives. I have a version 1 softmodded with a 750GB Seagate (PATA) that has worked flawlessly for over a year now. Also, I just completed another softmod with one of my Crystal Edition XBoxes and a 1.5TB Seagate SATA. I followed curious george's instructions here--after initially having some big issues with XBPartitioner 1.1 freezing almost as soon as it started, need to make sure you do a stupid-format with 1.0 first--and everything has worked out perfectly. All I need to do now is rework the power cable so that I can close the lid without mashing everything in and I'm good to go. I will be changing out the 750GB in my version 1 box for another 1.5 or possibly 2TB, works a treat.
I only have one issue, and it is an issue that I can completely live with. Cold boots, are completely fine. I can cold boot all day long. I can also perform an in-game-reset softboot at any time via the control pad, and that restarts perfectly. But if I use any menu item that initiates a Reboot, from UnleashX, from Evox, etc., once the XBox logo comes up during this warm reboot my system WILL freeze with an error 7. At this point I have to turn off the power button manually--or I can better yet just avoid rebooting from a menu and use the controller. When booting the system for the first time, there is a delay of approximately 15 seconds. However, once a game starts to load from the dashboard? Or anywhere else in the course of playing it? Holy shit is it fast.
The Halo loading screen is literally 1 second, you just hear the guy chant so quick it sounds like "Ha!"
Post by: Harryt223 on May 17, 2010, 12:31:00 AM
QUOTE(Endymion_ @ May 16 2010, 12:29 PM)
It's not that rare. These things were everywhere in Canada. They're pretty damn spiffy though, I've got two.
This was someone's belief, but while it is correct, it isn't the only one that will work with large drives. I have a version 1 softmodded with a 750GB Seagate (PATA) that has worked flawlessly for over a year now. Also, I just completed another softmod with one of my Crystal Edition XBoxes and a 1.5TB Seagate SATA. I followed curious george's instructions here--after initially having some big issues with XBPartitioner 1.1 freezing almost as soon as it started, need to make sure you do a stupid-format with 1.0 first--and everything has worked out perfectly. All I need to do now is rework the power cable so that I can close the lid without mashing everything in and I'm good to go. I will be changing out the 750GB in my version 1 box for another 1.5 or possibly 2TB, works a treat.
The Halo loading screen is literally 1 second, you just hear the guy chant so quick it sounds like "Ha!"
Yeah, I bet games load fast. I know without Sata my games load fairly faster on the hard drive. I bet a SATA drive would only increase it LOL.
I do have a question.
I'm new to modding so bare with me here. I've done the Krazy Ndure xboxhdm soft mod.
Basically with the hot swapping. This is for the default hard drive. This allows me to get the eeprom.
The question is how do I create a new xbox disk on to the SATA drive? Do I reuse the xboxhdm program to create a new disk with the eeprom and then run the create a new disk setup?
I guess that means I have to connect the adapter to my PC's IDE to get the SATA connected and the hard drive created, and then move the adapter to the xbox?
And When would I run the xbox partition program?
Post by: ldotsfan on May 17, 2010, 07:30:00 AM
QUOTE(Harryt223 @ May 17 2010, 02:31 PM)
The question is how do I create a new xbox disk on to the SATA drive? Do I reuse the xboxhdm program to create a new disk with the eeprom and then run the create a new disk setup?
I guess that means I have to connect the adapter to my PC's IDE to get the SATA connected and the hard drive created, and then move the adapter to the xbox?
And When would I run the xbox partition program?
Yes to first 3 questions and you run xbpartitioner in the xbox after the SATA hdd is installed.
Post by: Harryt223 on June 06, 2010, 02:10:00 AM
I am going to make a push for this now.
I don't have 1 TB drive.. but I have a spare 160GB SATA.
So I will try and see if I can get it working.
I have a new idea, and I don't think anyone has tried it. I think it will fix the issue with the drive not running early off. It won't really fix the power consumption issue though... but I can't see how it would be a issue with a smaller size drive.
My plan is to use a Y splitter molex from the power, which will power the SATA card AND the hard drive separately. I am also going to run a SATA cable from the hard drive to the card instead of having the card stick right into the hard drive. I haven't figured out which cable I will need. I assume a male to female type, as the card has the opposite connection.
Anyways.. I don't know if it will work for sure or not. But I won't know unless I try it and see.
PS: im using a converter off ebay a cheap one and I'm using a WD 160GB SATA drive.
Wish me luck!
Post by: ldotsfan on June 27, 2010, 06:36:00 AM
QUOTE(oz_paulb @ Sep 1 2003, 04:18 AM)
Q: Is that a result of the BIOS accepting a long as a parameter in it's disk functions?
Could it possibly accept a structure that is 48-bits in total? That would allow drives up to 144,115 TB or 144 PB.
Throughout the kernel, a 32bit sector number is used for low-level access.
To change it to use something larger would make it incompatible with existing apps.
If we start filling up 2.2TB drives, and it becomes a problem, I'll take another look at expanding it past 32bits.
- Paulb
Post by: Bomb Bloke on June 27, 2010, 08:15:00 AM
Post by: jaygriggs on October 20, 2010, 05:15:00 PM
On another note Has anybody tried the 2.5TB that Western Digital just released I assume the xbox will only recognize 2.19TB
Im thinking about upgrading my main xbox from 1.5-2.5 As long as the partitions are under 1tb xbpartitioner 1.1 should work, I just dont want to be the first guinea pig:D
Post by: lordvader129 on March 25, 2011, 12:50:00 PM
QUOTE(one2three4five @ Mar 25 2011, 10:55 AM)
Instead of a 1 TB hard drive can I use a 3 TB hard drive?
the largest you can use is 2tb as the xbox wont read more than that
Post by: Womi on July 24, 2011, 02:01:00 AM
I've installed a 2 TB WD Green SATA HDD, everything worked fine. Booting is almost as quick as my previous 500 GB IDE HDD.
XBox v1.4 with SmartXX 2 and x2 5035 bios.
Used XBPartitioner 1.0 to split the free space evenly between F and G, used 1.1 to format them with 64k clusters (changed size slightly to force a reformat).
I even checked the cluster size with EvoX by transferring a 10 kb file to both F and G -> free space was exactly 64kb less.
Now I've transferred about 400 GB of Games to F - and all of the sudden my files are corrupt (G is still empty).
Seems like the typical 32k cluster problem to me, I can still see all files, but parts of them are missing.
Luckily I still got everything on my PC HDD.
What did I do wrong? Has it something to do with the massive amount of files?
Could it have something to do with my previous mistake - on my fist attempt, XBP 1.1 didn't reformat the partitions and because of the 32k clusters all files disappeared after the 500GB mark. Then I reformatted G and F, but left C, E etc. alone.
Post by: scooge on August 03, 2011, 03:47:00 AM
Many of the links in this and other threads are dead.
I saw this. http://www.newegg.co...N82E16812232021
I am guessing it should work. Anyone know for sure?
Post by: JLsoft on August 05, 2011, 01:16:00 AM
Almost everyone uses boards that are meant to attach right to the back of the drive and they only add like another 1/2 inch to the length.
Check http://stores.ebay.com/partsdom - and search for 'SATA' 'PATA' for an example.
You can also try searching the main eBay site for:
PATA/IDE TO Serial ATA SATA Adapter For 2.5/3.5 SATA HD
or
PATA/IDE TO Serial ATA SATA Adapter Converter For HDD
which are auction names that the above ebay seller has used...I only mention that ebay seller because I and others have gotten their adapters from that user, and they ship from the USA instead of Hong Kong, which would usually take like 2+ weeks to show up. If you search, make sure you choose a seller that's not from HK/etc if shipping time matters. :)
Searching for just PATA SATA also brings up these types of boards mostly, with some of the larger ones like you linked to.
Post by: Suicidal Dreams on August 23, 2011, 07:46:00 PM
when i last took a look at all this, i was under the impression that softmodded systems didn't do well with sata drives. is that no longer the case?
Post by: ceaseless on August 31, 2011, 01:24:00 PM
http://forums.xbox-s...p;#entry4821307
Other than that, everything still works properly. I still have my 32 cluster- G partition on this 500 GB. It's just this black hanging screen when I press the power button after the boot up sequence. I have to press Eject for it to finish loading and get to the dashboard and that's aggravating. Between the SATA adapters and the spinning of the hard disk, I hope we figure out something.
Post by: hlmasterchief93 on September 04, 2011, 05:56:00 AM
Post by: gugutz on April 15, 2012, 08:06:00 AM
After trying to upgrade my xbox 1 HD for my 1.5tb sata drive using the adapter i bought from dealextreme and it failed a few months ago, now, several months later, i finally had success just by buying anotehr adapter (the same one), and using my Seagate 1tb drive. (couldn´t use the 1.5tb cause it was already on my PC and it is filled, and i didn´t feel like backing up 1500gb of files before trying the upgrade, so i just used the 1tb i got reserved for this purpose.
So here are the technical data:
Hard Drive: 1TB Seagate Barracuda ST31000528AS
Cable: EXCHANGED the default 40way cable with a 80ways cable on the xbox.
Setting up: I just downloaded AID 4.53 (Auto Installer Deluxe, the newest release as of now), and it formatted the drive for me.
It made a C: partition with 500mb, an E: partition with 5 gb, and an F: partition with 924gb
What went down while i was upgrading:
First i got error 16, the internal clock error.
I dunno why i got this error, since to get it you have to disconnect the power and leave it off for 5 hours or more so the capacitor for the clock runs out of energy, and the xbox was only out of power for like 10 secs tops, but i got it anyway.
To fix it i just removed the 1tb sata drive, and placed the 120gb PATA that was already there, let it boot once to xbmc so it can read and record the internal clock again, then i changed back to the SATA drive WITHOUT disconnect the xbox from the power this time.
So i started getting error 13. Then i knew it was just a matter of installing the dashboard.
Inserted the AID 4.53 dvd, it booted on the first attempt, automatically detected there was a new HDD and then i went step-by-step first partitioning, then formatting C:, then E:, then F:
After this i installed XBMC, copied Avalaunch to the Apps folder on E: via FTP, and launched it so i could use Qwix to send my games in.
So far i copied 150gb of files and everythint went smooth.
Now what i wanted to ask you guys here was this: do any of you know if the newest release of AID already prepares drives larger than 500gb with 64kb clusters? Or should i do the repartitioning of my F: again on xbpartitioner 1.0 and 1.1, like the usual methods?
Also wanted to say that i made a page on my website in pt-br with a guide to help people from Brazil and portuguese speaking countries to make this upgrade possible on their xboxes.]
The address is http://gugutz.com/hd-sata-no-xbox-1/, and it gives the proper credits to galvanash for starting this thread, and the nice people on Xbox-scene who have been struggling for years now to made this upgrade even easier for ppl around the world.