Post by: bucko on August 14, 2007, 06:22:00 AM
I want a volkswagen beetle classic as my first car XD. Or something of the like.
Post by: deadparrot on August 14, 2007, 06:47:00 AM
How much are you expecting to pay to insure that?
Post by: blame canada on August 14, 2007, 07:04:00 AM
However, that car still looks nice, and if cleaned and pimped, could be pretty badass
Post by: Boiker on August 14, 2007, 07:48:00 AM
It's dark blue, alloys, clean grey interior and goes pretty quick for something its size. I've timed 0-60 as 11 seconds from standing. Rolling in second gear at around 3500 RPM it'll pick up and get to 60 in no time
Insurance is £1000 a year on it and the car is worth about £900-£1000 so it's a good cheap car to get as your first and isn't actually that slow compared to some other cars.
I'm going to uni in about 2 months so when I'm done there I'm thinking of a 2001-2003 Audi S3
Post by: xboxgamer733 on August 14, 2007, 11:08:00 AM
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 14 2007, 06:29 AM) 
Oh yeah... the AC doesn't work. lol.
Hopefully, it just needs to be recharged, or it will be fairly expensive to repair. Did your grandpa ever switch it to use R-134a?When I was barely 17 and beginning to driving my Citation, my insurance per year was $465 through USAA (for only liability). It seems like yours shouldn't be too expensive, either.
Post by: killerbootsman on August 14, 2007, 12:40:00 PM
I'm currently working full time, trying to save up for something with a little more spunk.
Post by: xboxhackern00b on August 14, 2007, 01:24:00 PM
Post by: Rylinkus on August 14, 2007, 05:04:00 PM
Post by: jesterrace777 on August 15, 2007, 12:23:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxgamer733 @ Aug 14 2007, 06:44 PM)
Cool, kind of reminds me of my first car, a 1981 Chevy Citation (probably because they're both X-bodies). Do you know what size engine is in your car?
Hopefully, it just needs to be recharged, or it will be fairly expensive to repair. Did your grandpa ever switch it to use R-134a?
When I was barely 17 and beginning to driving my Citation, my insurance per year was $465 through USAA (for only liability). It seems like yours shouldn't be too expensive, either.
Keep in mind though that us folks with USAA are spoiled with our rates and most people won't have access to them.
Post by: yaazz on August 16, 2007, 06:01:00 AM
Post by: coldasice on August 16, 2007, 10:48:00 AM
Post by: sicknasty413 on August 16, 2007, 11:54:00 AM
I'm teh noob when it comes to cars.
I tried looking.. I had no idea where to look.
My father says it has a V6 though..
Post by: twistedsymphony on August 16, 2007, 12:13:00 PM
I think printing the name on the engine is a newer thing, most of the older engines are simply identified by their shape.
As for painting it black... don't do it unless you can get a REALLY good paint job and you're willing it wash and wax the thing every 2 weeks.
Black paint is the quickest to get dirty and show the most flaws in the body work. But when it's painted right and cleaned right it does look spectacular.
Also black cars get hotter than other colors because they absorb the heat. I know a few years back Jeep had a major problem where the glue on the inside door panels were coming apart on all of their black vehicles.
just stuff to keep in mind.
FWIW White is the color that hides the most imperfections in the body work, often nicknamed "collision white" because that's the colors shady used car dealers would paint former wrecks to hide the shoddy body work. Any earth tone color including white will hide dirt well.
Post by: coldasice on August 17, 2007, 03:15:00 PM
Post by: hamwbone on August 18, 2007, 03:05:00 AM
Post by: CJLee89 on August 18, 2007, 08:00:00 AM
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 16 2007, 03:01 PM)
^ Yeah.
I've always just loved black cars.. blacks my favorite color.. you could easily tell if you saw my room.
It would be ridiculous in Virgina.. it's been 95+ degrees everyday that last week or two. So a black car definitely doesn't sound ideal.
So if not black.. what color!!??
On a somewhat unrelated note, I got new floor mats.. for now. I'm also going to steam clean the car today. I'll be sure to take some pictures.
not red either....most pulled over and the most expensive to repair if you would get a scratch or worse. the insurance is often higher as well.
Post by: Chancer on August 18, 2007, 12:03:00 PM
QUOTE
not red either....most pulled over
Bloody Hell! That doesn't sound too fair getting pulled more because you drive a RED car. Can they do that in the US?
Post by: hamwbone on August 18, 2007, 12:35:00 PM
Taken from progressive.com
"Do red cars cost more to insure?
Color is not a factor used to calculate car insurance rates we don't even ask you what color your car is when you get a quote from us. Factors that do matter are the year, make, model, body type, engine size and age of your car, as well as drivers on your policy."
gettin pulled more over because its red is also a legend...
http://www.snopes.co...law/redcars.asp
Post by: xboxgamer733 on August 18, 2007, 03:29:00 PM
QUOTE(hamwbone @ Aug 18 2007, 01:11 PM)
gettin pulled more over because its red is also a legend...
Very true. Although I don't think I drive any differently, I've actually been pulled over much more in my gold Grand Prix than my red Neon.
Post by: CJLee89 on August 18, 2007, 07:30:00 PM
Post by: yaazz on August 19, 2007, 09:03:00 AM
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 18 2007, 07:22 PM)
So how about we talk audio.
I'm not really audio savvy when it comes to car audio..
So any recommendations? Probably lookin' to spend around $500.. not sure though.
I need a new radio/cd player/deck thing..
Probably some new speakers (probably 4)..
And some subwoofers (preferably 2).. and obviously an amp for them.
So throw me some info, recommendations, etc.
Thanks!
I'm not really audio savvy when it comes to car audio..
So any recommendations? Probably lookin' to spend around $500.. not sure though.
I need a new radio/cd player/deck thing..
Probably some new speakers (probably 4)..
And some subwoofers (preferably 2).. and obviously an amp for them.
So throw me some info, recommendations, etc.
Thanks!
My recomendation is to wait a few months before putting any substantial amount of audio equipment in your car..... get used to driving without distractions first.
Post by: jrl2222 on August 19, 2007, 10:56:00 AM
QUOTE(CJLee89 @ Aug 18 2007, 10:36 AM)
not red either....most pulled over and the most expensive to repair if you would get a scratch or worse. the insurance is often higher as well.
They just had a thing on 20/20 ... "20/20" Examines Common Myths ... Segment: "Red cars mean trouble?" and they said that in the US 11% of all cars made are red and only 1% of cars pulled over are red. So really red cars get pulled over less often.
Now I am quoting from memory so it may have been 11% and one percent in some certain state but I am pretty sure they said the whole US.
Post by: twistedsymphony on August 20, 2007, 09:17:00 AM
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 16 2007, 03:01 PM)
...So if not black.. what color!!??...
Might I suggest Cadillac's "Lightning White" It's an optional color found on the Escilade it's a creamy pearlescent White and it look damn amazing.
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 18 2007, 06:22 PM)
So how about we talk audio.
I'm not really audio savvy when it comes to car audio..
So any recommendations? Probably lookin' to spend around $500.. not sure though.
I need a new radio/cd player/deck thing..
Probably some new speakers (probably 4)..
And some subwoofers (preferably 2).. and obviously an amp for them.
So throw me some info, recommendations, etc.
Thanks!
ugh... $500 is not much to work with in the car audio world... especially when the stock speakers and wiring is probably trash... remember car audio has less space to work with, need to be resistant against extreme heat and cold, it needs to withstand and play normally through jolts in the road as well as constantly changing momentum and to top it all off it has to work with an extremely dirty power source
All of that adds greatly to the cost of car audio equipment.
Personally I like Alpine equipment and that's what I use in all of my cars. There are a number of speaker brands I like too but they're all way out of your price range... (and by that I mean a single component is more than your entire budget
)I'd say buy a decent head unit. Shop around and find something you like, avoid brands you've never heard of. Pioneer tends to deliver the best bang for your buck. Sony is typically so-so but over priced. brands like Pyle and Legacy should be avoided like the plague.
I would not go used on a head unit as they tend to be abused quite a bit. Getting a used amp is hit or miss as well since heat damage can really screw them up but I'd say a used amp is safer than a used head unit.
Normally I'd suggest running a separate amp for your normal speakers but since we're going cheap just make sure your head unit has adequate power output for your speakers... and a full range pre-amp out so you can upgrade later.
As for the sub woofer I find that the box tends to be just as important as the driver itself. several 10" drivers seems to offer the best combination of punch and low frequency response while 12" can deliver lower beats they're usually quite sloppy and slow to respond unless it's a really high end driver is a quality sealed box. This would also require your main speakers to pick up some of the slack. Don't bother with the square subs they're quite sloppy and more expensive.
make sure you get a digital amp as they tend to run cooler and the last thing you want is your amp overheating on you and shutting off all the time.
Get your cables on ebay or monoprice.com use 4X shielded pre-amp wires. Monster XP or Monoprice 16ga or larger works good for speaker wire.
For power you'll want 4ga or larger and be sure to fuse it on the battery side (The amp should have it's own fuse so the inline fuse is really to protect your car not your amp. which is why you want to put it near the battery).
for speakers I'd recommend 5.5 or 6.5" round midranges with separate tweaters... since you're going cheap you might have to get 2-way units instead of separates... avoid the oval speakers if you can.
I haven't done up a car for a while so you'll want to talk to ub3rnewb, he's the resident car audio expert and can probably give you a better idea what new tech is good/bad/ugly.
Post by: sicknasty413 on August 20, 2007, 09:29:00 AM
But yeah, I know $500 isn't that much to work with.. But that was just an estimate.. I may be able to savage some more.. Possibly up to a grand. But like I said, not sure.
I'll be sure to contact ubernewb one of these days.
I also need to factor in install.. I may do it myself.. I'm not sure how difficult it is.. Nor do I know much about wiring audio and what not.. I'm sure I could figure it out though.
Anyone else have any recommendations, tips, etc for car audio?
EDIT-
In regards to the color.. The "Lightning White" you mentioned is a nice color.. But idk, I'm not that fond of white.
Post by: coldasice on August 20, 2007, 02:12:00 PM
Doing the headunit is pretty straighforward, you can get the instructions, and wiring harness from Crutchfield if you buy a headunit from them, although I must say they are a tad overpriced. Luckily for you your front door speakers are 6 1/2 inch already, so you dont need an adapter. However you will in the back as they are 6x9s.
I paid a little over $500 for a set of Infinity speakers for my rear deck, and a 70 watt x 4 channel Alpine amp. Just to give you an idea of what you can get for the money, then again I tend to get the more expensive stuff.
You deffinatly need to find a balance of what you need/want from your system. You can't have a steak and champagne dinner on a pizza and beer budget, although most of us try to. If I were you I would do it piece by piece, maybe get a nice headunit and a good set of speakers for your rear deck for now, and wait until you get enough money to buy a set for the front, you know just work you way up to it.
Also when you install your amp run the power wire through the firewall where the rest go through, theres no need to drill a hole in it, although a fair ammount of people do.
Post by: ubernewb on August 20, 2007, 08:59:00 PM
okie doke.. several things to think about here...
first off, $500 might be a bit rough to meet. especially if you're after quality.. for a full system (deck, 4 speakers, 4ch amp, subs, 2ch/mono amp) you could easily spend that on the install alone.. especially in an older car like that. you could do it yourself, but you need the proper tools and a bit of patience. stereo install in general isn't that hard to do, but it can be a pain in the arse. definately have a pack of smokes and some beer nearby for when you start to feel frustrated.. when you do (which should happen once or twice) just kick back and relax a little.. working thru your anger usually results in things getting broken.
if you get stuck, post up some pics of what's giving you trouble and i'll try and give you some ideas on how to work around it..
equipment wise... alpine's a solid choice. they've been in the game for a while and they are well known for quality components. the only thing i don't like are their type r subs... i've listened to them more times than i can count, and i have to say that i honestly prefer their type e subs instead.. i'm building 4 of their 10's into the back of my current car..
a few questions before we get started..
1. what kind of music do you listen to?
2. do you have an ipod? if so, how often do you listen to cd's?
3. do you want this to sound good for you, or everyone else? (ie. do you want the neighbors to know what your favorite song is?)
4. when you go see a band, do you like to be up close or more towards the back?
Post by: jrl2222 on August 20, 2007, 09:27:00 PM
The amp you could use any amp that meets the needs of the subs you pick of course brand recommendations would be good. I myself have been out of the car audio scene for a while since I got married and had a few kids so I can't really recommend anything except for your enclosure I would build something custom. If done well they always look better then off the shelf boxes.
Post by: ubernewb on August 20, 2007, 10:41:00 PM
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 20 2007, 09:29 PM)
Honestly, I listen to anything. Typically when I'm with my friends- rap. But if not rap, then rock. Really anything.
rap=12's then... should go sealed box though, as that will help when you decide to pop some rock in.. i prefer sealed 10's for rock, but they don't do as well for rap
QUOTE
Ipod, no. Zune, yes. CDs.. not often. Unless there's some type of advantage over using CDs than an MP3 player.
then i'd probably step the deck down one notch to the 9883.. the only difference is the display, and the 9885's only real main advantage is when scrolling thru an attached ipod.. and since nobody does an interface for zune...
QUOTE
Mainly for me. But it would be nice if it could get REALLY loud.. yet still crisp.
yeah, definately type r's amped then... lol
QUOTE
..Never been to a concert. lol. But I like the loud musicz. Going deaf and what not. It's fun. lol
only reason i ask is cuz i wanted to know how realistic you wanted it... better speakers with more power up front is more like going to a live show.. if you just want it loud, then you amp em all
i'd still consider some type e subs tho.. can play just as loud with the proper amp... nice thing is that the proper amp won't cost as much as the proper amp for the type r's... you can rail 2 type e 12's with a single mrp-m450 amp, where the type r's would prefer the mrp-m850.. so cheaper subs and cheaper amp..
Post by: ubernewb on August 20, 2007, 11:04:00 PM
lol
and jl makes some great stuff... i love their amps and subs.. not a big fan of their full range speakers, but they're decent enough..
whatever you do, i'd definately build the box for the subs.. prefabs are convenient, but they rarely match a sub's specs very well
go dig around crutchfield.com .. they've got some good stuff over there
Post by: twistedsymphony on August 21, 2007, 11:39:00 AM
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 20 2007, 05:44 PM)
...
I still need recommendations for-
2 tweeters
An amplifier for my subwoofers
A box for my subwoofers
Wires/Cables
As you can see.. this clearly doubled/triple my $500 budget.. But like I said, I may be able to do $1000.
...
Those 2-way alpine type-R speakers you listed have tweaters built in... that's what make the "2-WAY" speakers
Separates simply have the mid and tweater as two separate units with a separate cross over unit. These are better because you can mount the tweaters closer to ear level and the cross over circuitry is usually higher quality.Also if you're going to use an amp for the speakers then there is no reason to get an amplified deck at all since you wont be using it's internal amplification.
You should probably do this in steps
Step 1: Head unit with decent amplifications, and rear deck speakers
Step 2: Front door speakers/Speaker wire to deck
Step 3: Box/Subs/Sub Amp/Preamp wires/Power Wires
Step 4: Speaker Amp/All new Speaker Wire
If you do steps 1 and 2 at the same time you'll spend about $1000
Then steps 3 and 4 will run you about another $1000
Also doing it in steps will not only help spread out the costs but you'll learn what you like and don't like about each individual component and help you decide what to look for in the parts of the next step. Not to mention the install wont be so overwhelming doing it all at once.
Oh and screw bestbuy.... go to crutchfield.com they're more of a valuable resource and research tool then they are a store. I don't want to hear you mention bestbuy.com one more time... basically don't go there until you know what you want and are curious what their price is...
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 21 2007, 02:08 AM)
As for building a box..
Is that difficult? I'm quite capable of cutting wood, drilling, nailing, gluing, etc etc.
Is there a lot of science that goes behind it?
Like, are there certain things I need to factor in?
Certain things I need to keep in mind?
------------------------------------------------
Speaking of ohms.. I noticed on Alpine's website that the 12in Type Rs came in 2 flavors. "2ohms + 2ohms" and "4ohms + 4ohms". What's the difference? They're the same price. Is one better than the other? Is one recommended over the other? Will that affect my choice in amp?
Box Building:
http://www.ehow.com/...woofer-box.html
The biggest factor in box building is the air volume inside the box. Then of course there are 2 types of boxes, ported and sealed, we've already determined that you'll want to go with a sealed design
Learning about ohms and Wattage: http://www.marktaw.c...ndSpeakers.html
Post by: ubernewb on August 21, 2007, 07:46:00 PM
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Aug 21 2007, 11:15 AM)
Oh and screw bestbuy....
hey.. eff you you effin effer.... haha
what can i say? they pay my bills.....
i don't give a shit what anyone says, you can get some great deals at that place... and some of them actually have employees that know what they're talking about.. crazy thought i know, but it happens
quite a bit better than circuit shitty, but i suppose that doesn't take much
and no.. tweeters do NOT go at ear level.. where in the hell did you get that from?!
Post by: Rylinkus on August 21, 2007, 08:30:00 PM
As for color, I can attest, black is too fucking hot. I'd keep the paint as is. I think that thing looks pimp as hell the way it is.
Post by: sicknasty413 on August 22, 2007, 06:54:00 PM
Anyways.. I made some progress today! I have yet to get any equipment, but my father picked me up a cheap ass speaker to replace the rear left one that doesn't work. So I got to install that! Even had to start modifying shit and what not. But it works as it should.. so now I get audio from both my rear speakers
. I'll replace 'em soon enough though!My father and I also recarpeted my trunk! Before it had this ghetto ol' shag-like carpet-
We replaced it with some newer carpet that we had laying in our garage. It's not perfect or professional or anything.. but it definitely looks a hell of a lot better than what was in there before-
So yeah, let me know whatcha think.
I'm trying to get my mommy (lol) to shell out a grand.. or 2.. haha. I want my new speakers/sub/amps/etc!!!!!
I'm still in need of a new deck/radio/receiver/thing.. so throw me some recommendations. Preferably something available at www.aafes.com.. that way my father can use [my mother's] Military Star Card. lol
Post by: hamwbone on August 23, 2007, 03:34:00 PM
not vouching for the company, but its alot cheaper elsewhere. look legit though
Post by: hamwbone on August 23, 2007, 06:14:00 PM
Post by: Rylinkus on August 24, 2007, 06:03:00 PM
QUOTE(sicknasty413 @ Aug 23 2007, 02:30 AM)
^ Where you from?? And let me know when you get those specs. As for the paint, it definitely needs some touching up. I got some touch up paint.. but it doesn't exactly match. Maybe if I wet sand it with some 2000 grade sandpaper.. maybe that'll help.
Im out of town helping my dad after he had surgery. He's doing very well, so I should either be home late tomorrow or Sunday. Definately Sunday, as I have to work Monday. so Ill get the info to ya then, if not earlier.
Post by: sicknasty413 on August 26, 2007, 10:12:00 PM
For power wire- 4awg
For speaker wire- 18awg
Fuse- AGU 100A
Then I'll also need some RCA cables to run from my deck to my amps.
I guess I'll also be needing some type of power distribution block that will split one 4awg wire to two 4awg wires to power my amps. But that seems hard to come by.
As for my fuse choice... I took all the fuses from my amps.. took their amp rating.. and added them all. It ended up being like 105A. So I figured a 100A would be sufficient.
So I pretty much know that I have to run a 4awg wire from the positive battery terminal to my fuse.. then from my fuse through my car's firewall.. then from my car's firewall to my trunk... from my trunk to my power distribution block.. then from my distribution block to my 2 amps. Then I just have to ground my amps to my car's chassis via a screw. Then I run RCA cables from my deck to my amps. Then run some speaker cable from my amps to my speakers.
And I basically wire my subwoofers like this-
...And I think it's as simple as that.
Any other things I should know???
I still need to figure out what box I want. I know it should be sealed. Just not sure on the cubic feet. Also would like to get it from www.techronics.com if anyone wants to recommend one from there for me.
Personally, I'm pretty excited. Not even because it'll be a pretty beast audio system.. just for the sheer fact of installing and workin' on my car and being able to say.. yeah, that's you n00bish friends of mine.. I installed that shit myself. None of my friends think I can do it. They wanna be there to record my car blowing up..... assholes.
EDIT-
Oh and I think I may go for the Alpine MRP-F550... 20w per channel. 90w x 4 at 4ohm. The speakers I'm getting are like 100w RMS.
So this completely fucks my fuse decision.. I think. The 800w amp = 75A. The MRP-F550 = 60A. So if I combine those.. that's 135A. Where the hell am I gonna find a 135A fuse O_O
Post by: StrictPuppet on August 26, 2007, 11:40:00 PM
Post by: StrictPuppet on August 27, 2007, 01:52:00 AM
QUOTE
Unless of course I only account for 1 fuse from each amplifier.. giving me 25A + 30A = 55A..
That seems much more reasonable.
Post by: ubernewb on August 28, 2007, 09:31:00 AM
you could go 150amp if you're worried about it, but you should be fine with the 100a fuse.. another thing you should think about is ditching the fuse altogether and running a circuit breaker instead.. a little more expensive, but it beats replacing fuses over time.. it's also nice cuz it pretty much gives you a kill switch for your system (which is nice if you let a friend borrow your car and don't want to risk them blowing shit..)
Post by: twistedsymphony on August 28, 2007, 11:26:00 AM
QUOTE(ubernewb @ Aug 28 2007, 12:07 PM)
.. another thing you should think about is ditching the fuse altogether and running a circuit breaker instead.. a little more expensive, but it beats replacing fuses over time.. it's also nice cuz it pretty much gives you a kill switch for your system (which is nice if you let a friend borrow your car and don't want to risk them blowing shit..)
That's an awesome idea... I'm definitly doing that on my next audio install!
Post by: ubernewb on August 28, 2007, 08:38:00 PM
was great, he quit borrowing my car after that..
Post by: twistedsymphony on August 29, 2007, 08:55:00 AM
... never run redundant wires.
Post by: ubernewb on August 30, 2007, 12:21:00 AM
the remote wire is what tells the amps to turn on.. the deck sends out a low amperage 12v signal out thru the blue/white wire.. this is what tells the amplifier to turn on, which then draws it's main power from the bettery of the car..
and as for recommended box sizes.. the smaller the box, the tighter the sound.. the larger the box, the boomier the sound.. as long as you stay within the recommended range you will be fine (it's even possible to go with a box with ~10% less airspace, but you must stuff the box with polyfill stuffing, which you can get at walmart for a few dollars)
and i don't have aim (it's a tool of the devil).. but you can get me on msn at [email protected]
Post by: ubernewb on August 30, 2007, 01:02:00 AM
and m$ may suck, but i've never had msn kill my computer.. aim has murdered my connection speeds with backdoor nonsense too many times before. that and it just seems to be easier for people to get into.. i had an install of aim go so badly i've had to do a restore.. that was like 2 years ago, and i stay away from that crap since
Post by: sicknasty413 on September 03, 2007, 12:42:00 AM
I'm not sure if I wanna go "all" Alpine.
I've been lookin' around and talkin' to some people.. and I'm thinkin' of going with different amps.
This amp by Directed Audio-
$300
800w @ 2ohms
1200w @ 1ohm
Why? Because I may go with 3 12in Type Rs
By running 3 Type Rs, I can potentially reach 1.33ohms by wiring the coils in series and wiring the subwoofers in parallel.. which would be give me around ~1000w .. supposedly. lol And for right now, I could just go with 2 Type Rs at 800w.. which would be fine... but if I wanted to, I'd still be able to rock 3!I was also lookin' at this amp by JBL as well.
Then this multichannel amp by JBL-
$105
60w x 4 @ 4 ohms
145w x 4 @ 2 ohms
Why? Like $150 less than the amplifier I was going to get and 45 more watts per channel.
So let me know what you guys think of those.
I'm still not sure if I wanna go with Type Rs though. I've been lookin' at other companies such as Pioneer, JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, and others
So many friggin' choices!
Post by: sicknasty413 on September 15, 2007, 09:09:00 AM
I am!
Anywho, that's all I got for now.
Post by: antiochos on December 25, 2007, 10:44:00 AM
I still have my first car:)
My second car is Renault Clio 1.6 RXT , still driving it too...
Small cars are great, less fuel, less pollution, easy parking..
Post by: Vayate on February 05, 2008, 03:43:00 PM
Also, you should look into getting your frame and the backs of your body panels/fender wells/etc shot with some rubberized undercoat. Not sure how it is in VA, but here in Ohio they salt the hell out of the roads whenever more than three snowflakes fall. Salt = rust = death to any car that's not properly protected, especially cars from the 70's and earlier. I say this only because the body looks to be in brilliant condition and I'd like to see it stay that way.