Read the instructions. I think the /r option is just to force it to flash the firmware you select. Doing what you suggested just reflashes it with the same firmware to make it work on the xbox.
forgot to mention i am using the method on page 9 to flash my drive
i am using the FIXED firmware
Remember to put the drive in slave mode...
should i reflash the drive
Just a Quick note to anyboady struggling with this ejecting powering on etc. . . [SIZE=14] PUT THE DRIVE IN SLAVE MODE WITH THE JUMPER.
hi i tried the above idea but still dont eject
I just used this drive to replace a dead phillips which began to intermittently give error 12 on startup with increasing frequency until the box could no longer be used. Thanks Menelik for the great tutorial!
I havn't flashed the drive or soldered the vrcd simply because at the moment I don't use originals on this drive, it's mostly for media playback, but may in the future flash it.
My problem is this, when soldering it up I accidently knocked off the ready point. Not bad soldering, just my own stupidity, bumped the resistor with my hand and knocked it clean off.
As the drive isn't flashed and I don't need full functionality, the only reason I was soldering these was so that I could use the eject switch. My other idea was to solder up a momentary switch to the eject switch, and hide it somewhere on the back of the unit, but this seemed like an easier option.
My question is simply, is the ready point necessary for ejection, or is the eject point the only one needed on an unflashed drive? Again, full playback of originals isn't a concern, I just want to use it with xbmc as a pc drive for the time being, and have eject working as well.
To answer my own post, I got bored after a couple days and went ahead and wired it up, it worked fine. With only the eject/trin/trout leads connected I have a working eject for the drive which is all I needed at the moment.
Success.
Thx to all for helping me replace my flaky Thomson. Works like a charm on everything I throw at it.
Hey all
i have a 8163b and its great
i wanted to know if 8164's work as i can get them cheap at my local comp store.
i have read through all this thread and its taken me a good hour and a half and all the info on the 8164 is someone got one and sent it back.
can they be used
Cheers
-Mark Morgan
i believe so
it works perfectly for me
and its alot cheaper
-Mark Morgan:beer:
ps. any info on my question
Note to all! Important!
The GDR-8163b is selling out. The new drive 8164b will not work within this mod as it has a different pcb layout and as far as i know a different chipset.
the last 4 companies who promised me that they have 8163b drives sent me 8164b instead.
whoever wants a 8163b should hurry.
http://www.zipzoomfl...ductCode=174219
ordered these last week, worked great
Great tut!
I have a dead Samsung drive, so was looking for a way of fixing it, hope this is going to work.
Any how, I live in the Netherlands, end the only two I can find are these two:
LG GDR-8163SBB
LG GDR-8163RBB
Will this work with one off those drives?
Thanks
Michel
QUOTE
To answer my own post, I got bored after a couple days and went ahead and wired it up, it worked fine. With only the eject/trin/trout leads connected I have a working eject for the drive which is all I needed at the moment.
Without the ready signal evox reports the drive as open and won't launch a dvd from the dash will it? I think you can only cold boot into a disk.
Well, I got it working apparently the tray in and tray out connections were soldered in backwards as well. So yeah I've got it all working after 2 days. Thanks guys these drives are sweet, I'm gonna buy 2 more of these! now onto cd support with the resistors. L8terz and thanks for the tut man it worked great thanks, and thankyou.
tnx al for putting some info here
but i am stuck
this is how far i am
i did the wires
dont know if i did the flash i tried it but i think there is where it goes wrong but i'm a n00b in dos
oke so when i put the 8163 in my xbox it only load from boot
copy's of games only
the eject works fine it opens and close
when disctray is open and i power off it closes
in xbmc when disk is open it says it closed
can someone tell me how i can see if i did the flash right because when i go to config magic it still says i have the 8163 or is that oke
please i need some help tnx if you can help me
sorry for bad english but i think its better then your dutch :-)
i found what i did wrong
so for all the noobs on flashing this is what i did wrong
i thought i had flashed it but i did nit
you can see that you are flashing the dvd player you wil see a sreen saying that you did it oke
the next thing that whent wrong is that you have to place space in te code so 2 /f /c /p /o
do this and then it will work i forgot it everythime and it drived me mad.
but the lg works great now
thanx all for the good work
hey dude make sure your tray in and tray out connections arent reversed, even though your drive works ok in your modded xbox, it will not in a retail xbox if you ever decide to put it in one, so make sure all connections on it are good. Oh yeah and I'd recommend putting a switch inbetween vrcd ground and the vrcd witht the 1k resistor.
just ordered me another 8163b drive, just wondering though, from the guy about the gdr-8162b from zipzoomfly, you moddded a few of those and they worked? can you show us with pictures thanks.
I modified my pc drive : LG GDR 8163B with the ''The poor boy's drive'' guide from www.paccforce.de (this guide is in xbox-scene I think.
My drive is a new one : February 2005
I used the 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.
First I Flashed the drive with a 3½ disk. I think the flashing process where ok. No error message apeared.
Then I followed the rest of the guide but, I didnt find the 09 ''data'' points to solder. I soldered 12v, 5v, GND, GND, EJECT, CD READY, TRAY IN and TRAY OUT. 8 wires like in the guide.
When I connected the drive in the xbox. The loading sequence betwen the M$ logo and the Dashboard took like 4 minutes!! Everything load super slow.. And when I get in he Xecuter 3 bios with the 256k backup. no dvd drive is detected. Nothing show up in the drive section excepting this message :
'' BooUdeReadData data not ready...
1: Drive not detected ''
Could this be the 09 Data points to solder on the pcb ? But in the all the guide, there is no mention of the data point.
Or
Could this be a bad firmware flash ?.. Could someone tell me step by step how we do a good boot disk ? should I use a cd w for that ? I cant seams to flash from windows with the ''GDR-8050L0012.exe'' program.
Windows XP detect a LG GDR 8050L drive but not the xbox..
please help!
Lol, ok I found the problem, I didn't replace the LG drive to slave. The HD and the LG drive where both on master. However, I have now another problem. A serious one.. after I found the reason why my drives was not operating normaly I opened the drive just for litle join fix. I wanted to be sure that every solding points where ok and safe.. Then I accidently forced the Tray out joint on the other side of the pcb. The orange cap got appart with the 1k resistance.. so now I have a tray out point to resolder but I cant resolder it back since the yellow cap made of a shiny metal got appart.. What can I do ? Drive still work, but now, I have to press the open tray button on the dvd drive rather then pressing the xbox open tray button. How can I repear this .. or is there any other point I could use for a fix ?
So here's where I am in this project - The power, eject, and vrcd wires are all fine, but I screwed up on the tray in, tray out, and ready wires and lifted the gold contacts (I know, it's ridiculously easy and I'm dumb and also this is my first soldering project. Have pity). I took Monsteria's advice and connected the tray in wire to the LDOUT on the eject side of the board, but I'm stuck on the other two. Jetset Willy said in post 192 that it was possible to just tape the wires into the small holes on the points near the gold pads, but I can't get them to stay reliably. Menelik has stated that "every pad has always a connection to a nearby point what means that you can use this point instead." And in post 292 he said "that when the read point is damaged you cut the whole trace. this means that you gotta rewire that cut." So for the tray out wire, what nearby point am I supposed to use? Each pad seems to be connected to two different points. And for the ready wire, what does it mean to cut the trace, and how do I 'rewire that cut'?
Menelik thx for the great tutorial
I am going to try out these resistors:
they are 1k OHM and 0,25 Watt
they only cost € 1,- per 50 pcs.
EDIT: how do you call the connector that goes into the mainboard? I need to order some of these..
Since no single resistor value works best for the VRCD to GND connection, I was thinking why not put in a variable pot to make adjustments easier. May even glue it outside on the drive's back.
If anyone is interested into buying this drive, follow the Link below.
QUOTE(tanno @ Feb 11 2006, 12:39 PM)

Since no single resistor value works best for the VRCD to GND connection, I was thinking why not put in a variable pot to make adjustments easier. May even glue it outside on the drive's back.
a simple switch would do the same job - on = resitor used, off no resistor used.
yeah, when you flash the new firmware the status led will stay on.
the 8164b works with the Xbox but there is no flash for the drive to read originals
and there is only the eject signal to work with. But there is a plus you can use
DVD ram with this drive on the xbox. as with the 4161b burners there is NO
support from LG.
[delete]
where did you read about the 8164??
Looks like we may be getting a new replacement drive soon the - 8164
Suggest a new thread to kick things off.
Just a post so now im subscribed to this thread 
My drive is still kicking and reading all media 
cheers guys
I 'guess' that every 8163b should work. i dont think that a 8164b will ever work as the firmware is incompativle. Whoever is interested in a premodded 8163b, take a look here www.konmod.de
for international shipping mail me at [email protected].
Thanks for a great tut Menelik, my old phillips drive finally died on me so I followed your tut and now have a fully functioning drive. The drive was a little hard to find but eventually found a shop that had 8163 rather than 8164 so I got 2 ( one for a spare
)
i have to admit that i didnt had a closer look on the 8164b. but i dont give it a high chance as the 8164b has to be nearly the same as the 8163b which would be senseless.
as soon as i have a 8164b in my hand i will take a closer look on chipset and pcb but dont hope too much.
QUOTE
connect VRCD and GND (you can use the GND point on the left bottom) through a 1k resistor. Note: I tested 30, 50, 100, 500, 680, 1000 and 10000 Ohm, I got reliable results on 1k and 680 Ohm, thats why I choose 1k here.
Do I have to use the (sw-) or can I use any GND point to do the trick ???
every GND point will work.
@fatx
Did you allready try to flash the drive? if not, what error did you get?
please do.. many peeps are looking to find this info out for fact !
Mick ..
QUOTE
please do.. many peeps are looking to find this info out for fact !
Mick ..
look at your PM !
QUOTE
has anyone opened up a LG GDR-8164B drive to see what kinda diferences they have made ?
have read that they take the flash and still kinda operate ...
not sure if this has got any further ?
(as this is the only drive i can find easerly now in the UK)
Mick ...
QUOTE(ziggy13 @ Feb 20 2006, 07:35 AM)
QUOTE
the 8164b works with the Xbox but there is no flash for the drive to read originals and there is only the eject signal to work with. But there is a plus you can use DVD ram with this drive on the xbox. as with the 4161b burners there is NO support from LG.
from what ive read else were the norm 8050 flash, that ya use on the
8163b, flashs to the 8164b and still kinda works
its just they never mentioned about how much functionality (CD's and what not) do work, and if the main boards were similair.
Mick ..
PS thing i may just order one, are only £15 !!
PLEASE TELL ME MORE ABOUT THAT AS I AM WAITING FOR MY WILLEM PROGRAMMER TO TRY THE 8050L FIRMWARE INTO THE 8164B...
WHERE HAVE YOU READ ABOUT IT ???
I MAKE THE 8164B WORK LIKE AN ORIGINAL DRIVE (EXECEPT FOR THE FLASH)...I WILL SELL A PCB TO RECUP. THE SIGNALS FROM THE DRIVE TO MAKE IT WORK IN TO THE XBOX.
Yesterday I've received my willem programmer, dumped the FW from a 8163b flashed with 8050l, dumped the FW from the 8164b ( for recovery), and finally fashed it with the 8050l... AND... NO... NO GO... The tray opens as soon as the xbox is powered, closing it, it re-opens right away...I unpluged all the signals wires and the IDE to have power only to the drive and the same thing happens...
For the PCB I was developping, the manufacturer called me yesterday, the final plans are done, he is ready for production but I asked him to put it on ice for a while... The cost for this is pretty high and since the flash doesn't work for now I don't know anymore...
Since I am french, most of my research have been done on GX-MOD on this topic :
http://gueux-forum.n...pic=75299&st=40
On this topic I ask for people interested in the PCB to send an email to let me know that they will probably purchase the PCB if I proceed... this is only to help me take my decision if I proceed or not with it...The PCB will be sold 20 to 25$ (CAN)
If your interested email me to : [email protected]... if I have at least 100 emails I will proceed
Here is a capture of the PDF file I sent to the manufacturer

On an other hand, I have been examining the bins files... some parts are pretty similar if you feel that you can help modding the 8050l.bin to run on a GDR-8164b see these posts :
http://www.xboxhacke...=33&topic=470.0
http://forum.rpc1.or...pic.php?t=37922
Thankx PATx_
well thats not a good start 
ok... although the tray opens, this MAY be a simple as the signal are reversed ? ..
in is out, and out is in ..
so a simple reversing of polarity of motor MAY fix this ???
just an idea as this had to be done on another drive when we flashed it ? .. cannot remeber what drive this happerned to but ?
this could i spose be checked by seeing if the spindle still spins up, when the wires are just removed from motor, so the tray does not get forced out ? and see if it reads a disc at least ?
as long as the drive thinks that its closes and wants it to stay closed (the tray in micro switches are also the correct way round) then it should at least try and spin up a disc !
Mick ...
PS.. i have not got one, or ever done any thing like this, i just like reading ! .. and do seem to remeber anything interesting i do read ! (so if peeps write stuff wrong then i too am wrong ! lol hence why i said that peeps had flashed and they worked... i read it wrong, they /i ment they work in xbox like a normal drive unflashed)
Nop the MN103 pinout is completely differenf from 8164 & 8163 drives... rerouting is useless.
QUOTE
Good news, after a long session working with McDennis I can now tell you what is wrong with the Dangerous Brothers RPC1 package and why it doesn't work. Simply, they got the wrong Flash Device ID.
So we fixed that and you can find a working 8164B flasher here
http://rapidshare.de...4_LL06.EXE.htmlBe aware that this will complete flashing VERY quickly when used against the same version of firmware and it looks like it's too quick to have worked. Whats going is that the flash programming algorithm has been optimised, each sector in the flash is compared with the new binary and only the sectors which dont match are erased and programmed.
So if you flash version LL06 over LL06 nothing happens, lol
Great news now we are gonna be lots of peeps working on that one !!!
here is the 8164flasher with bin 8050l :
http://patxbox360.co...64_8050.dld.EXE
WARNING... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK... NOT TESTED BY ME OR k00m.
iF YOU NEED RECOVERY FILES And FLASHER... here it is :
http://patxbox360.co...R8164B0L06L.dld
http://patxbox360.co...ck/FLASHUP2.rar
QUOTE
Nop the MN103 pinout is completely differenf from 8164 & 8163 drives... rerouting is useless.
May be not after all...
QUOTE
here is the 8164flasher with bin 8050l :
http://patxbox360.co...64_8050.dld.EXEWARNING... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK... NOT TESTED BY ME OR k00m.
iF YOU NEED RECOVERY FILES And FLASHER... here it is :
http://patxbox360.co...R8164B0L06L.dldhttp://patxbox360.co...ck/FLASHUP2.rar
TESTED AND NOT WORKING... (working on a fix... more news to come)
Does anyone know where to buy the male pin connecter for the DVD drive cable? The premodded drives on KonMod.de (from menelik's signature) have the connecter on the back and it looks really neat.
Thanks
Is there a schematic somewhere how I can solder a 8164 to work as a unflashed 8163?
hi patx, i've send u an email
hope you get back at me soon
greetz jay
Ordered a drive last week via one of the links in this thread, didnt check the model number (I'm stupid) and recieved a LG 8527B. Any chance that it will work?
guys just stop those questions. ONLY 8163b drives will work and I dont expect other drives including 8164b will ever work like the 8163b.
QUOTE
Hi,
Yes, i think it would be very possible to mod the firmware of ANY drive to get it working with the 360. I think all you have to make sure of is that the ATAPI's are implemented in the same way AND you'll need to 'port' the authentication code, so best is to use a drive with very similar code, like the 8163/8164 for example. However it will be quite some work to get everything running I guess
Regards,
TS
So let's get to work everyody !!!
Is GDR-8163RBB the same as GDR-8163B?
If not, does the mod work on a GDR-8163RBB?
QUOTE(patx @ Mar 23 2006, 03:00 PM)

Time will tell !!! I am half way trought with the 8164... I am working on a flasher right now so more people get into this... I have the drawer acting normally, xbox will boot with it drawer open, drawer closed = error 07... PC bios & windows detect a 8050l when flashed... If people get into this am sure something will come out !!!
its odd that it gives error 7 ? .. as thats a hdd timeout... hmmm
why would it be interupting the IDE line ?
do ya think its crashing, or halting and waiting for summit ?
what was that trace ya cut go too ?
Mick ...
i've never said that it isnt possible to get the 8164b to work, but it will definetly need some firmware hacking where my knowledge ends and i have to time to offer.
cheers
btw, i can think of a automatic switch which uses the 8163b bios flashed on an additional bios. it has been done before with newer versions of the 616t samsung (e and g types). i think it worked well. maybe this is a way it could work too.
thats a real shame that its got to have loads of firmware changed
one question prob sounds a bit silly...
but how about the 8164 working in the 8164 and vice versa ? (as they may have 'other' instructions in the bios ?)
or is it the case that all the main chips are now a diferent make etc 
Mick ...
I keep finding an amzing supply of GDR-8163BI instead of GDR-8163BK which are Sold Out EVERYWHERE (looks accusingly at the modding scene), so I guess if I didnt care about color I could use the 8163BI instead right?
And no one has had any problems with this mod? ie DVD drive having trouble resuming DVD playback after spindown, Skipping video or hanging Xbox boot, difficulty playing Xbox games after 15 min etc?
i know this is a very old topic, but does this mod work with GDR-8163BB? here is the link
QUOTE(AManOfLOP33 @ Apr 20 2006, 03:38 PM)

i know this is a very old topic, but does this mod work with GDR-
8163BB?
here is the link
Yes it does, I bought one of those and modded it not to long ago.
anyone have an issue with slow response times???????
QUOTE
We apologize for the inconvenience, but the item you are looking for has been deactivated. Here are some similar products that you may wish to consider:
Then a list of other LG drives
I also just completed the beige drive mod and wow this is fabulous. I did the audio header install method and clipped them so they werent connected to the board. I used 4 1k ohm 1/4 watt normal resistors from radio shack and it worked fine. The hardest part of the mod was finding a damn floppy drive that worked. Pretty sweet how this is on the down low more or less. Basically a $75+ xbox drive for $25 and a little bit of labor. Fabulous
can anyone post a picture that shows the points to get the 8164 working in a xbox
dont need to read originals.
I just wanted to post a thanks... I just did this mod, took me 20minutes and it's all good.
Pulled the resistors off of an old Mobo, and ordered a few H2054-ND connectors from digi-key for a nice clean install:


I took a little chunk of the plastic out to get my wires to the back of the connector. I didn't bother to attach ANY of the power wires to the connector either, I figured the Molex connector is much better suited for that anyway.
This will be going into my HTPC case conversion, so the fact that it's a PC drive works to my benefit, the fact that it's using molex power is fine too considering I'll be using a PC PSU.
I already modded one of these drives and i have one more to do but the first one works with everything but its alittle slow anybody know why???
where can i get these to buy now
QUOTE(Xb0XmAn @ May 3 2006, 12:37 PM)

can anyone post a picture that shows the points to get the 8164 working in a xbox
dont need to read originals.
please?
Will the drive GDR-8160b work with this mod? Sorry if this has been answered, but I cant seem to find it.
Thanxs,
mstandlee
If anyone's interested, there's a few up on eBay.co.uk. Just bought one
Awesome, that's great news. Good work :thumbsup:
Firstly,
menelik Thankyou for this wonderfull hack. You da man 
Have you tried the 8164b drive yet ? It seems there is a shortage of 8163b
patx this is great news. I accidently purchase3d 5 8164b and was about to return them.
You say you are working on a new firmware for this. Willl the 850l.dld not work for this ? How soon will your firmware be ready ?
For anyone looking for the 8163
http://www.techsunny...1...Bare drive)
Will this drive work? Clicky ME!! Im pretty sure its what I need, but I thought I would ask before I buy.
Thanxs,
mstandlee
Yes it will. It is the beige drive though. The link I prvided is for the black drive.
But the drive you linked to also costs 16 dollars shipping to my house..
mstandlee
edit: Thanks for verifying that my link will work..
Ok well I was kind of rushing when I did this and I seem to have messed up some of the points on the back of the pcb bcuz when i useing it and i put cds into it, it does not automaticaly lauch even though that is what the dashboard is set to do and it also cannot boot cds/dvds.
So i was wondering if anyone could please post a picture of an alternate point for the 3 points on the back (tray in, tray out, and ready). I think for tray in you can use a point right next to the right of eject point? can anyone please post a picture for the other points so i can locate them. TIA
Big thanks to menelik ad all others who contributed to this hack.
I've done 2 drives now ad they are sweet.
I believe that's correct. But what's the point in not taking the extra few steps?
In case anyone is interested in painting their beige drive trays I found the release tabs for the tray today.
To take out the tray:
1. Unscrew the 4 screws on the bottom of the drive
2. Remove the bottom metal shielding and then carefully flip the drive over (the circuit board shouldn't fall out if it's clipped into the tabs)
3. Remove the top metal shielding
4. Remove the fronta face plate if you haven't already done so
5. Push the white piece of plastic at the front in and this will release the drive tray and allow you to slide it out
6. Slide out the drive tray to it's limit
7. Push down the two plastic stalks circled in the picture while at the same time pulling out the drive tray
8. Go and paint it with some vinyl dye and get rid of the ugly beige drive in your Xbox
QUOTE(Jesper64 @ Jul 8 2006, 10:40 PM)

In case anyone is interested in painting their beige drive trays I found the release tabs for the tray today.
To take out the tray:
1. Unscrew the 4 screws on the bottom of the drive
2. Remove the bottom metal shielding and then carefully flip the drive over (the circuit board shouldn't fall out if it's clipped into the tabs)
3. Remove the top metal shielding
4. Remove the fronta face plate if you haven't already done so
5. Push the white piece of plastic at the front in and this will release the drive tray and allow you to slide it out
6. Slide out the drive tray to it's limit
7. Push down the two plastic stalks circled in the picture while at the same time pulling out the drive tray
8. Go and paint it with some vinyl dye and get rid of the ugly beige drive in your Xbox

Hi have you made your drive fit into the Xbox case yet? I'm wondering whats the easiest way before I start hacking up the case unnecessarily, any info or pics would be much appreciated.
QUOTE(lenballs @ Jul 11 2006, 12:31 PM)

Hi have you made your drive fit into the Xbox case yet? I'm wondering whats the easiest way before I start hacking up the case unnecessarily, any info or pics would be much appreciated.

Mine's going into an old DVD case that I'm modding, so unfortunately can't help you. But I think the way that's posted in the tutorial has been used with great sucess.
QUOTE(lenballs @ Jul 11 2006, 06:31 AM)

Hi have you made your drive fit into the Xbox case yet? I'm wondering whats the easiest way before I start hacking up the case unnecessarily, any info or pics would be much appreciated.

Mine fits pretty well if you follow the tutorial, and clip on the bezel. All I had to do was cut the shielding out in front of the drive, and move it forward. I then hotglued the drive to the tray/cage thing.
QUOTE(deadparrot @ Jul 12 2006, 06:35 AM)

Mine fits pretty well if you follow the tutorial, and clip on the bezel. All I had to do was cut the shielding out in front of the drive, and move it forward. I then hotglued the drive to the tray/cage thing.
Yes I've now read the tutorial, didn't think it applied to the 8163, but its the same shape drive.
I now have a 8164 drive installed, very stealth like, roll on the working firmware.
Cheers
Hello again,
well I tried the flash boot disk maker program, no luck, do I have to reflash my 8163B with an older version of it's own bios then try? or should it work the first time?
OK,
after reading every post in this, (man that took a long time), I have figured out a few hints to my problems from pieces of posts here and there.
A while back a guy named Razor? on here had a problem flashing his drive (the 8163b) Something changed on the drives after june 2005...
they used to be:
HL-DL-ST-DVD
NOW they are
HL-DT-ST-DVD
I have no idea what the difference is, the model number is the same, however the flash program isn't finding the drive. Now Razor? found a flash utility that he was able to flash his drive with, but had problems with windows afterwards, which sounds about right, Menzel mentioned this many times that the drive wouldn't be detected by windows after that, but I wanted to find out, what program he used to flash it with, and what the different between DL and DT is.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
@perrin26
I've done some searching about what you said and my results are:
HL-DT-ST GDR-8163B
HL-DL-ST GDR-8163B
by the results i think HL-DL-ST GDR-8163B never existed...
i hope this anwser your question
I modded one of these drives a while ago. The good thing about this drive is that it indeed reads everything. The bad thing is that it makes a lot of noise compared to other drives. It's good enough for the average Xbox but not good enough for people who like silence.
Maybe a firmware with a speedlock (like the original Xbox-drives which are locked at... 6x?) should be released for the LG-8163B to make it more quiet.
Wow, by dumb luck I stumbled across this thread a few days ago...
*does the slow clap*
I just did the VRCD upgrade to my stock 8050L with a switch. It's read 3 diff brands of DVD+R's, " " "DVD-R's, Movie DVD's, and most importantly (most) CD-R's.
It will not read Memorex Black CD-R's or my fancy Taiyo-Yuden Blue CD-R's; but it reads cheap media/silvers like a champ. All about the CD-R's dye apparently.
With the switch in at least you can perhaps switch it off when not playing CD-R's and save some wear and tear IF there indeed is any...I figured it couldn't hurt nothing so...
Sorry If I'm being redundant....this has been gone over before but this stuff bears repeating I think.
The coolest mod next to the softmod for 1.6/b owners(IMHO)!! Great work Menelik this thread was definitely worth the read.
i have aproblem can anyone help me..Did the 8163 mod..Just did the wires and the vrcd pad lifted...Idid not fix..figure im using dvds only anyways..Put heres the problem ..it ejects,tray in and tray out is recognized...seems ok ..But it says no disk to everything>>> what to check ? took bottom cover off and lazer lights up and it spins....Did i need that vrcd fixed?Thanks for a fast reply
Hi. I am havin problems flashing my drive. It says the drive is not found. Can anyone help me pleas? I have followed the tuts to a tee..
Thanxs,
mstandlee
Bump up cuz I wont get any help if its on the second page... Also this is a 8163(I think) Anyways its the kind I dont need the adapter to use...
Any help would be great..
mstandlee
CODE
sf8163.exe 8050L.dld 2 /f /c /p /o
The 2 refers to the setting of the drive (master or slave). Just type:
CODE
sf8163.exe
and you should get the help screen explaining this. I had to move the jumper on my drive to get it to work.
Sorry I can't be more specific, but I did have the same problem you are running into.
CODE
SF8163 8050L.dld 2 /f /c /p /o
The only thing in this tutorial that applies to the 8050L is connecting VRCD to ground through a 1kOhm resistor to enable CD-R compatability. The rest of it is getting the 8163B to act aas an 8050L.
Ok. I think I trashed the PCB. Most of the pads I need to use are gone and I tore the tracing in a couple spots. I've done a lot of soldering in my time but honestly not much on tiny circuits like computer boards. I'm thinking my iron is too hot or too big or wrong solder or something. I'm using a 30w iron. Guessing I should use a 15w. Using rosin core solder, not the smallest diameter, probably average. Had the hardest time getting the solder to stick to the pads after holding the iron to it for a few seconds, then when the solder did stick the slightest move would rip the pad off the board. The instructions are easy to follow and great (Thanks Menelik!), I think my problem is the tools. Can anyone tell me what tools they used to get the job done?
P.S. Got my drive on compuvest.com for $21. One of the best deals I could still find.
I use a 30 Watt iron, that's fine. I think your problem is that you need to scrape some of the laquer off of the very small points (the ones that are flush with the board) so as to get your solder to stick.
I just did this mod this weekend and it works PERFECTLY! Much cheaper then an "Official" XBox drive and much better!
Hey, sorry to bump an old topic, but I have the LG 8163B drive. Basically I tried to do the mod ages ago but my soldering sucks so I took everything of and made it back to how it was before.
However I have been trying for about 3-5 hours getting my firmware back to the original. I'm guessing I'm using the wrong firmware, HitachiLG8050.bin I'm sure that is the original right? I have tried renaming it to .DLD because the Xbox firmware is 8050L.dld and that is what is currently flashed to the drive.
I use the commands of SF8163.exe A:/HitachiLG8050.dld 3 /f /c /p /o /r on a MSDOS bootdisk I made, but each time it gives me this error, "The specified file is not a download file". I'm so confused, I can't find the DLD file on the LG site anywhere only an EXE file.
I've read through most of this thread but can't seem to get anywhere. Ironically I can still flash the Xbox firmware again so I'm sure the drive is working fine (the green light always stays on I know it does with Xbox firmware). I just can't seem to downgrade it to the original.
Cheers.
Edit, NVM found a DLD file for the drive so managed to get it functioning in Windows again. Cept when I put in a CD/DVD drive it don't spin up (led flashes though and it tries). Think I just fucked the drive up
.
why do u need to ?
Ok. So I flashed my drive and all went well. It works great. But, when I shut my xbox down it dosent close the tray on the dvd drive. And when first booting it up, It wont fully boot until I close the drive. Its nothing major, but something I would like to fix. Thanks for any help.
Inc.
The link for the tutorial is down. Does someone have a mirror or want to upload it to Xbox-Scene.
Found one:
http://www.xbox100.c...l_GDR-8163B.pdf
QUOTE(keine @ May 25 2007, 09:29 AM)

Thanks, I've edited that link into the OP.
I've got problems.
8163b modded.
I flashed the drive as per instruction. Everything seemed to go just fine. I was informed of success and told to shutdown my comp. I shutdown and removed the drive.
My drive ejects fine. However when I put a disc in it freezes XBMC as it spins up and down, up and down, then just spins forever. The box hangs before shutting down after this as well. The drive refuses to eject on command after the first eject and load. If not loaded I can eject and reeject.
Does it matter than I put 3 of my resistors ON the audio speaker out points?
Basically I took my out/in/ready to the 1k resistors attached to the 3 prongs of the audio connector. I put the eject on the last prong.
The first time through, I took out the pins from the wrong end of the yellow cable. I put them back where they should have been (95% sure) and redid the other side, taking out the pins and putting them into a audio connector in the correct spots. (Anyway I can double check my cabling or do I have to replace the yellow cable to be 100% sure)
I then connected a molex, ide, and the audio cable to the back of the 8163b.
Any suggested areas to check?
Is this tutorial CORRECT?
8163b tut
It's version 1.1. Is that the latest version?
If I did fry my drive, how would I tell? Do I need to disconnect the audio adapter from the board, or can I leave it?
Double checked my pinout. Even though the end of the yellow dvd power cable that connects to the mobo has two extra spots on it, they aren't filled. So I used my multimeter to check between the mobo end and the audio connector I made. All points checked out 100% like I would have expected them too. Thus, the cable it fine, and there was never any possibility that I put +5v down my eject/out/in/rdy points. I'm 99% sure. That is assuming that
Mobo end
~~~|| ~~~~~~~ ||
~~ 0~1~2~3~4~5~6
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
---~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -----
0~7~8~9~10~11~12
(Where 0's aren't used)
matches to
Dvd end
~~~ || ~~~~~ ||
1~2~3~4~5~6
~~~~~~~~~~~
--~~~~~~~~~~~~--
7~8~9~10~11~12
MOBO-DRIVE
1-1GND
2-2+12v
3-3TRYOUT
4-4TRYIN
5-5GND
6-6+12V
7-7GND
8-8+5V
9-9Data
10-10RDY
11-11Eject
12-12 +5v
Is that right?
I tested and 11(Eject) matched my eject plug
10 (RDY) matched my ready plug
3 (Out) matched my out plug
4 (In) matched to my in plug.
I am beginning to think I know where I went wrong. I DIDN"T cut the leads on the audio port. Thus plugs 2 and 3 were bridged, IN/OUT Trays (I found that odd when I checked for bridges and 2,3 were bridged.) I should have paid attention to that. NO IDIOT, you can't have your in and out bridged, you dork. I'll cut my traces and try again. No serious voltage there, so I doubt it hurt my drive.
Cut the audio port connectors to the port and its working at 100%!
Ok, My 8163b is working pretty well. It plays movies and games wonderfully, however I have two problems. Just so you know what is working....Eject is working just fine. Retail games are working just fine. XBMC will see retail games from the dashboard and play them just fine. Close works just fine. Seems to work just fine.
I followed menelik's to do it.
DVD2Xbox doesn't recognize my games, but XMBC does. I read about something about my status lines being incorrect? Any more explanation? Which points are there?
Also, the drive is pretty noisy. I think this is due to the fact that if I look at my xbox straight on, I can see into the dvd drive itself. I can see the white magnetic spindle inside. This translates into the fact that when the drive inside spins up, all that noise comes flying out. How can I close this gap and reduce noise, and possibly dust from getting into the drive.
Picture might help.

See the gap on the top. If I look in there...I can see INSIDE the dvd drive. Plus the drive is noisy when it spins up...most likely due to this gap being wide open......What can I do about this? How can I seal it? The gap on the bottom also might be a problem, but I don't know because the drive sits down in the xbox just fine. Its down as low as the case will allow.
anybody?
False Alarm. Everything is fine. See there is an option labeled "Enable Media Detection" in DVD2Xbox, and guess...what... it was off. Turned it on and my 8163b immediately read off the disc just fine.
As for the loudness/gap....im still working on that. Any suggestions would be great there.
Does this mod work with the LG8161 Drive as well?
QUOTE(Antman1 @ Oct 19 2007, 08:05 AM)

Does this mod work with the LG8161 Drive as well?
Anyone know if it can be done? is it pretty much the same thing? I have a 8164 drive in it now but need to be able to use it with original BIOs and the guy that made the original adapter dropped all support and this is the email I got from Tailsmon now about new firmware:
"Hello,
Unfortunately the developer of the product is no longer supporting it. We only manufactured and distributed the product, and do not have the original code. So it seems unlikely that there will be a firmware update in the future.
Thank you,
CJ
Talismoon Support"
I wish I would have not bought this thing now but as his site said "Still in development" I just thought they would go further with it. I want to use the 8161 drive my friend has in trade for the 8164 and flash it with the 8050 firmware.
Would it be possible to replace the tray with an orignal XBOX one? Like from a Samsaug/Philips/Thompson
http://www.paccforce...l_GDR-8163B.pdf
Mod EDIT: New URL since the one above is 404'ing - http://www.xbox100.c...l_GDR-8163B.pdf
[/quote]
Above link is broken..
I want to start This 8163b Mod but There is no guide excepting that pdf files.
Is there any chance of upload them(Tutorial_GDR-8163B.pdf) once again?
and I have question that as far as I know,This mod will change LG GDR-8163B firmware and fiddle with its soldering point in order to be identical to Hitachi-LG GDR-8050L which is Latest offcial Xbox DVD drive.
If I were to succeed in this mod, This hacked(modded) GDR-8163B would be perfectly compatible with old or first version xbox1(manufactured before 2003 or 2002) ?
And Do Hacked(modded) GDR-8163B has any compatibility issues with older xbox models(like choppy dvd playback or slow file transfer speed,failure of recognizing retail disc) ?
I'm sorry for asking too much, and any replies would be appreciated.
It doesn't fit perfect in the xbox, but yes, it functions perfectly as an xbox drive once flashed/modded.
All xbox1 DVD drives are compatible.
EDIT: sorry, I've made a mistake
Has anyone circuit for 8164B (TR IN/OUT, READY points)? The image from Patx doesn't work...