Post by: adrenaline_X on November 10, 2008, 10:14:00 PM
Back ground :
Bought a broken 360 that was RROD error 0102. I used the x-clamp replacement that uses m5 bolts through the bottom of the case as well as adding Artic Silver 5 Thermal paste. I also cut out the wire mesh by the fans as well as cutting out some of the plastic at the back. This Fix worked for a about 4 to 5 months of Light usage on a normal tube tv. You can search the forums if you want to read up on the x-clamp mod and why it fixes the rrod. My 360 stopped working completely and loosening or tightening the screws would give me either the RROD of e74 and secondary codes related to the GPU or unknown. I had baked other 360s in the past and results were mixed for a lot of people.. some revived their completely dead 360s and other melted and blew up their capacitors. Check this thread out for my first run at baking them in the oven. This is a oven virgin and hasn't been baked/heat gunned/ etc ( http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...629455&st=0 )
I did a lot of reading up on the causes of the RROD and symptoms and about re-flowing / re-balling fixing the RROD. Search the forums if you want to learn more about re-balling / re-flowing.
The Method:
Pre-Heat your oven to 500F (240-260C) . This was the max my oven would go and I verified it with a oven thermometer. This Temperature is above the melting point of lead free solder. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder#Lead-free_solder)
Place the prepared 360 in the oven for 8-10 minutes
This time around I decided to try some things differently.. the first time around, caps began leaking, and everything was smoking and sizzling.. The 360 still worked, but leaking cap isn't the best thing in the world. This time around I decided to pinpoint the heat that the motherboard received. I did't have insulation handy (i live in an apartment) so I dug threw my dresser for some old shirts (2 to be exact plus some wool socks) First thing i did was remove the mother board from the case and then removed xclamp fix so all i had is the mother board with all the removable parts removed (sata cables, ROL board and fans) Second I wrapped my thick shirts around one side of the board (top and bottom) leaving the gpu and cpu exposed.
if the pictures aren't working check here :
http://picasaweb.google.ca/Michael.L.Fulle...BakingADead360#
(IMG:http://lh3.ggpht.com/_pnmi6PeZSIo/SRj7Y4X36GI/AAAAAAAADlQ/zvehFX8OlS8/s1024/DSC02088.JPG)
Note : I added socks to open parts here so that all you could see was the bottom of the gpu and cpu
(IMG:http://lh3.ggpht.com/_pnmi6PeZSIo/SRj7Z1qLYPI/AAAAAAAADlg/uGTz1qmvx-4/s1024/DSC02090.JPG)
I did the same for the other side of the board and kept it in place with electrical tape . So what i had left is the cpu and gpu dies exposed on both sides of the board with all the capicators and eject buttons insulated with a thick layer of clothing.. Next I wrapped the both sides of the board with a double layer of tin foil, completely covering everything. Use Wire to keep it in place (i used electrical tape but it melted and began smoking.
(IMG:http://lh6.ggpht.com/_pnmi6PeZSIo/SRj8u7aiNiI/AAAAAAAADl8/-Ctm1nwd25Q/s1024/DSC02092.JPG)
(IMG:http://lh6.ggpht.com/_pnmi6PeZSIo/SRj7agtH8GI/AAAAAAAADlo/yO0C5uXNSoQ/s1024/DSC02091.JPG)
(IMG:http://lh6.ggpht.com/_pnmi6PeZSIo/SRj8ukyLCcI/AAAAAAAADl0/zwiBiFGflus/s1024/DSC02093.JPG)
Then I carefully made a slit to expose the cpu and gpu dies and folded the tin foil down and under the clothes. (picture 2). After making sure everything was well covered, I placed in on a cookie sheet and placed it in the pre-heated oven for 8-10 minutes.. I noticed some smoke about 5 minutes in so i quickly took it out.. to my relief it was just the electrical tape on the out side of the tin foil melting and burning so I placed it back in to keep baking for another 5 minutes.
I let it cool and removed the tinfoil and clothing.. I inspected the board and everything was like it was before. The caps weren't bulging this time around and the electical tape holding the clothes in place was soft but in tack. I removed all the old thermal past and applied a new layer of Artic silver 5. I used two washers thick between the motherboard and gpu heat sync and 1 washer between the motherboard and cpu heatsync.. I lightly tightened the bolts just enough to provide adequate heat transfer from the dies to the heatsync... I turned it on and it fired up.. Then I turned it off..
Next I did the 12 GPU cooling mod found here. You don't have to cut your fan wires to do this so it was quick and easy. http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=637955. This step is NEEDED because if you can't keep the GPU die cool, the RROD will mos likely come back from everything flexing again and breaking the contact between the chip and the mother board. You want to keep the GPU heat sync cool enough so that you can keep you hand on it while someone is playing halo 3 or gears of war... split my fan shroud so that the GPU fan ONLY sucks air though the GPU heat sync.. I found the 12v fan mod to the gpu to be too loud and just switched it to the 9v mod listed on the link above.. The Heat sync was still hot to the touch so i added tape to the bottom of the shroud to make sure the air wasn't leaking under it.. I used incense to watch the air flow and saw that is was leaking in behind the GPU cooler. Once I removed all the air gaps, the Heat synce was slightly warm to the touch while Playing GOW2 for HOURS (like 4-5 hours).
So far i have about 20-30 hours on this 360 after baking it two weeks ago.. between playing COD4 , GOW2 and Guitar hero, it is still trucking.. I spent alot time testing to make sure the heat sync was slightly warm to the the touch and NOT BURNING HOT.
If you aren't going to do the cooling fan mod, don't bother trying this.. First time I did this a year ago I didn't do any cooling mods and the GPU heat sync was too hot to touch..
Anyhow... Once again I took a completely dead 360 and made it work again..
I had tried the using m5 bolts and washers for the x-clamp mod..
I had tried using pieces of a credit card in the 4 corners of the GPU die to give equal pressure on the chip. (http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=657442)
I pretty much tried everything, and read through a lot of fixes and before I sold the console for parts i thought i would try baking this 360..
Anyhow, i thought I would post my findings incase anyone is in a similar situation. I have a 1 year old arcade (falcon) that i use for main 360 but this one had the DVD flashed so i didn't want to get rid of it but i also didn't care if i melted. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post Results if you attempt it and the cooling mods
- Adrenaline_x
This post has been edited by adrenaline_X: Nov 11 2008, 06:18 AM
Post by: Thundercleese on January 04, 2009, 07:38:00 PM
Post by: Lugnut on January 04, 2009, 08:59:00 PM
I have no real temp control. I put a piece of coiled solder on the mobo inbetween the gpu, and cpu. I put the toaster oven on broil. Once i see the solder coil melt i let it stay for 2 more minutes I'll usually touch various other components on the board to make sure their solder has melted and then let it cool.
Notes on Toaster oven use:
1. All caps must be removed and replaced after reflow.
2. All power/video/memorycard/usb connectors can stay on the board and will not melt if I do it right.
3. I reflow the board leaving it in the cage so no components underneath can touch anything and be knocked off. Surface tension seems to be strong enough to keep anything from falling off as long as its not knocked around.
4. Once the board is reflowed you can check it with the PSU to see if it will boot, even without any caps . This way you don't waste your time rebuilding it if it doesnt work. I'm sure the system would not be stable to try to run in this state but it's a good quick way to find out whether or not to bother replacing the caps.
So far system has worked fine. I modded the fans to roughly 9v, I havent had another system to try it again though.
Post by: M1zch13f_m0d5 on January 04, 2009, 09:01:00 PM
Post by: Thundercleese on January 05, 2009, 08:22:00 AM
Normally i wouldnt trust my oven with my 360 either.
Post by: Zantac on January 05, 2009, 08:43:00 AM
Post by: angusbeef on January 07, 2009, 09:56:00 AM
With that said, adrenaline_x's oven bake might not be as crazy as it seems. The heat gun fix has been somewhat successful, but I think where it falls short is in evenly heating both sides of the board and also providing a uniform and accurate temperature. I think that these are causes for why it works for some people and doesn't for others.
On another forum there is a thread where a few people are using a cheap electric skillet with bolts acting as stands to set the motherboard on. This heats the underside of the board without having to move it, then they use a reflow station to heat the areas on top around the GPU to the exact temperature they want. The success rate sounds to be very high and at least one guy does 20+ boards a week. These guys are essentially doing the same thing as a cheap and dirty heat gun fix, but being able to perform exactly the same procedure each time down to the same degree in temperature and same number of seconds all while keeping the heat evenly distributed.
Putting the board in an oven would allow you to monitor what the temperature is and to heat the board evenly. It sounds crazy, but if adrenaline_X's method of covering the other components does protect them enough, it just might work. I might buy a cheap remote oven thermometer and practice on a old PC motherboard. I want to cover up parts of it and measure the difference in temperature to the parts that aren't covered up, because I think that is the main stumbling block.
I also found these instructions on using a toaster oven for reflow work, similar to what Lugnut mentioned. It could be a better option as it would heat and cool faster, but I don't have a toaster oven.
http://www.instructa...-Soldering-BGA/
A few days ago when I started googling on how to fix a 360 it seemed like an easy thing to do. But as I've chronicled what has been done for the past year, it seems to date there is no definite fix. Reflowing seems like the most viable solution, but we can only wait to give the recent round of systems "fixed" by this method time to determine that. The high temperature and poor cooling of xbox 360s seems to be the root cause, and I think that also needs to be remedied or no matter what you will be haunted again by the rrod.
I just thought I would share my observations. I am by no means an expert on any of this and please keep in mind I have not tried to fix mine yet. I am one of those computer guys who always gets asked to look at electronics when they are broken and this time its a 360. While I'm attempting to fix something, I always go for the best solution possible rather than some quick easy fix and this time it has been very difficult to find!
Post by: adrenaline_X on January 07, 2009, 11:59:00 AM
IT DIED AGAIN after the gpu fan started turning slowly (bad solder point on MOBO maybe for my 9v fan mod) and I didn't feel like fixing it... it lasted about 60 days under instense gow2, (played the full game on it) cod 4 and 5, gh3, need for speed and dirt. After the fan sort of died i could tell it was really hot but I was too lazy (got engaged) to spend time taking it a apart to fix it, so i let it go till it died
I finally took it apart and re-baked it at 500-550 for 10 minutes last night.. I had my heatsync screws on TOO tight last time so i made them snug this time... baked at 500-550 (overn thermometer) on top of a cookie cooling rack which was placed ONTOP of a cookie/baking pan in the oven to block direct heat to the bottom of the MOBO when the element came on.
PRE-HEATED over before putting it in.
no damage to the caps or any of the buttons.. i used two ripped up t-shirts to insulate the board leaving the gpu and cpu dies exposed on top and below.
Re-installed MOBO in metal case and x-clamp fix (3 washed between mobo and metal case, plus two washers between mobo and heat sync (gpu) and one between cpu).
Plugged it in and it loaded the dash board.. check gpu heat sync with my hand after about 10 minutes and it was warm and not burning hot (fixed fan issue)
i will start using this one as my main console and see how it does this time around.
Sorry about not posting earlier but I've been busy
i wonder if i could find liquid flux to aid in re-flowing the solder balls if that IS what is happening in the oven.
i love messing with this stuff
if it dies again, i'm going to verify the die temp after it comes out of the oven with a laser temp gauge (didn't have it on hand)
Post by: Vauxfan on January 07, 2009, 05:13:00 PM
I just used a T-shirt, unripped, made the 360 wear it
and wrapped the rest in tinfoil. Left the CPU/GPU and all the ram chips exposed.Apply x-clamp fix, cooling shroud extended and the sides of the shroud sealed with old mains lead insulation, once the xbox is used a couple of times the insulation moulds to the shape of the components on the board and gives a good seal.
I get loads of heat out the back and the sides are cooler than the air coming out.
Post by: Lugnut on January 07, 2009, 07:57:00 PM
Post by: wyldstallions on January 08, 2009, 04:23:00 AM
However it is important to protect all the caps and plastic bits like eject buttons etc as these can be easily damaged and make for a much harder time.
Preparation is the key. These forums are filled with people that haven't protected vulnerable parts when heat gunning etc and then have then run into serious problems,
I found socks, electrical tape, blu tac and lots of tin foil are ideal for this, then 5 mins at 230ºC has worked well so far for me. The longer and hotter you do it the more chance of heat damaging another part. Not enough heat/time and it won't last. But I found you can repeat this method if thats the case.
You should also look into also adding other fixes though such as x-clamps, and correcting the chassis problem for a longer term fix.
Post by: killamayne on January 08, 2009, 01:35:00 PM
My consoles last longer with this method.
This post has been edited by killamayne: Jan 8 2009, 09:36 PM
Post by: adrenaline_X on January 08, 2009, 06:17:00 PM
Good to hear it's working out.
What chasis fixes are you talking about?
I did my fan shroud mod so that NO air was leaking from under and around the shroud(split fan shroud ).
I used incense smoke to test it .. no leaks + plus 9volt fan mod (gpu only side), and the gpu runs warm to the tough.. Before it would burn my finger almost instantly
Post by: Lugnut on January 08, 2009, 07:14:00 PM
Post by: wyldstallions on January 09, 2009, 06:28:00 AM
I was investigating why my motherboard was so distorted and why also it wouldn't screw down straight. You can see this by removing the rear fans/shroud and looking in the rear with everything else screwed down, the motherboard is forcibly distorted upwards in the middle as the center chassis pegs are too high. I posted this here in the forums a couple of months ago before the willhelms revised guide was out (but they seemed to have found the same), but nobody seemed to take much notice.
I fixed my pegs with a hammer.
Post by: Danny-boy on January 10, 2009, 09:28:00 AM
Post by: option350z on January 10, 2009, 09:30:00 AM
Post by: wyldstallions on January 10, 2009, 10:40:00 AM
The problems with the heat gun are that unless you have an I.R thermostat handy or heat probe your not going to know the exact temperature you are giving any specific part of the board, so you may apply excessive heat on one spot while insufficient heat at another, without knowing if you are getting hot enough for long enough it may not reflow, plus you are only heating one side at a time so it can also make the board warp.
I based this on a whitepaper on a specifically designed xbox360 reflow station which heats the underside of the board to 160˚C and heats the chips to 230˚C for just a matter of 90 or so seconds. With a reflow station its equipped to not apply heat to the bits you dont want, but not having that its necessary to protect those parts, also we are heating the underside of the board higher, but this is not so big a problem.
You need to get it hot enough 230˚C to reflow but too hot 250˚C and its possible to damage the chips. It takes a bit longer in the oven as you have the heat up period. I did a number of test with bits of solder to time exactly how long they took to reflow.
But no if your a hamfisted impatient baboon then the best thing to do is send it off for repair.
Post by: Lugnut on January 11, 2009, 12:10:00 AM
Post by: killamayne on January 11, 2009, 12:17:00 AM
QUOTE(Lugnut @ Jan 10 2009, 11:46 PM) 
I just did a second unit the same way as i listed earlier in this thread, remove all caps because they wont survive. remove heatsinks, and pads from underneath rams. take out the fans. take off the rol and because this unit has sync and eject buttons that are blue i had to remove those also as they will melt unlike the black buttons. there is one other thing i did different this time. On the first unit when i reflowed the whole board all the connectors with those spring tabs that push up against the casing caused the connectors to bend inwards when their solder reflowed. So i bent back all the tabs on this one so there was no contact with the casing. I then coiled up a piece of silver solder and put alittle flux paste between the gpu and cpu then put the solder on top of it ( i just use the paste so the solder will stay put when flowed). put it on toast ( thats the only setting on this oven that turns on all 4 elements). wait till the solder coil melts. Count 2 minutes. Open door real quick and check one of the big inductors to see if it reflowed. it was not. left it in for another minute and a half. checked again. the inductors had reflowed. Shut off the oven. check a few mosfets to make sure they're reflowed too, then closed door real quick but leaving it cracked open about 2 inches for 60 seconds so it wouldnt cool down too fast. Then opened the door fully and let it sit till it was room temperature. as5 and heatsinks put back on, plug in fan, fire it up with no caps just to see if it would boot and it did. Although its not good to do this but just for the hell of it i decided to see how far the system could go with no caps. It would go to the dash and load a game. ( used forza 2) but it would artifact real bad when i started a race and lock up. then sat at dash and noticed little artifacts here and there all over the screen. hmmm does this look familiar? makes me wonder if some of the box's that freeze and artifact alot actually have a cap problem and not a chip issue.
gpu error. caps have nothing to do with artifacting. i would do wilhelm's method of using credit card bits on the gpu giving it a even sit on the GPU
Post by: Lugnut on January 11, 2009, 01:34:00 AM
with all the attempts i have made at rrod fix's, none of them last. xclamp, heatgun etc etc, and probably the whole board reflow probably wont last either maybe the first unit was just a fluke.
On another note, im going to try to buy an lcd thermometer, im not sure exactly what im looking for but by looking around it seems like i should get a k type probe thermometer , which should be able to handle the temps then i will put it board level. Im just not sure if it should be covered so theres no direct shot to any of the elements that might cause it to read higher than it should.
This post has been edited by Lugnut: Jan 11 2009, 09:41 AM
Post by: xbox360dude on January 12, 2009, 07:44:00 AM
Post by: KingSyze on January 12, 2009, 09:42:00 AM
QUOTE(xbox360dude @ Jan 12 2009, 04:20 PM) 
is it safe to use the MICROWAVE oven??
No. Microwaves work on mositure contained in the stuff your cooking. not to mention the amount of metal that you are putting in the microwave.....hope you have home fire insurance.
Post by: angusbeef on January 12, 2009, 12:29:00 PM
QUOTE(Lugnut @ Jan 11 2009, 08:46 AM)
Open door real quick and check one of the big inductors to see if it reflowed. it was not. left it in for another minute and a half. checked again. the inductors had reflowed. Shut off the oven. check a few mosfets to make sure they're reflowed too,
Hey Lugnut, how are you checking to see if the inductors and mosfets are relowed? Just peaking in and looking for liquid solder? Or are you physically doing something?
Thanks
Post by: Lugnut on January 12, 2009, 05:51:00 PM
Post by: adrenaline_X on January 12, 2009, 08:38:00 PM
Are you using the exact same solder that is used on the xbox? I read up in wikipedia a year ago and there are a couple of different compositions for lead free solder.
Also, the solder balls under the gpu will melt at a much higher temperature now because of the massive heat applied to the gpu due to a lack of cooling.
I like your method as well, but it is very time consuming.. Simply covering up the rest of the board and insulating it is enough.
Very interesting to hear the the lack of caps made it artifact! Make sense as caps hold electricity like a battery, so it smooths out the power source.
I do have a toaster oven, but it will not fit the board.. If I have to bake this xenon board again i will take more pictures of my setup
It's super easy and i thought my xenon was toast anyhow... got a few more months out of it so far.. I have a couple more hours on COD4 on it.. gonna hit it up again tonight!
I'm now looking at getting dead ps3s to see what I can do with them!
DO NOT PUT YOUR BOARD IN THE MICROWAVE! IT WILL SPARK AND KILL YOUR MICROWAVE AND PERHAPS START A FIRE!
Post by: Lugnut on January 12, 2009, 09:29:00 PM
I have also taken the solder from these gpu's and reflowed the solder on their own. I know i have heard all this stuff about the solder annealing and causing higher flow temp etc, But on the two i dissected and tested, the solder of both reflowed just before reaching 450F, somewhere around 230 to 232c.
This post has been edited by Lugnut: Jan 13 2009, 05:36 AM
Post by: Lugnut on January 21, 2009, 08:27:00 PM
Note: the xbox killer all he plays is cod5, and i know that game is rough on 360's, The other person that was using the system, mainly used it for games like rockband 2 etc and never had a problem. I just wonder how much longer the system would of lasted playing less graphically intense games.
The second system i fixed with the toaster reflow is still running. And i keep running forza 2 on it everyday ( i just hire drivers to do endurance races) So far its running fine after almost 1 week. This system however has a reverse fan flow. the rear fans pull air in over the heatsinks, then there is two additional fans inside the case that blow the air out of the cases side/bottom vent.
Post by: Sic Of Life on January 21, 2009, 08:46:00 PM
Post by: Lugnut on January 21, 2009, 09:19:00 PM
Post by: killamayne on January 22, 2009, 12:22:00 AM
My personal system been up for months now with this fix and its a old 2006 system. Results may vary.
Post by: GamerBR on January 22, 2009, 10:24:00 AM
This post has been edited by GamerBR: Jan 22 2009, 06:25 PM
Post by: GamerBR on January 23, 2009, 04:12:00 AM
I used much more t-shirts then you did,I've used six.Instead of using thermal tape I would reccomend using a micropore surgical tape,it didn't smoke here.As I left only the upper part of the gpu uncovered I left it on a pre-heated oven for 17 minutes at 255°C,I think unlike you guys I used a kitchen stove oven,so it's much bigger than the motherboard.
I can't say it was sucessful yet,as it was working before,I did the x-clamp mod but at this point I would have to heat the board by disabing the fans almost every other day.At least it's still working.
Post by: adrenaline_X on January 26, 2009, 01:07:00 PM
The reason you want to leave the bottom exposed is because you need to transfer the through the board so that both the gpu and the motherboard are at nearly identical tempatures.. If you just heat the gpu you are not going to create a good bond.
so.. MAKE SURE HEAT IS REACHING THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD.
I might even put my x-clamps back on if it breaks again.. I'm thinking the x-clamp is causing my issues now
Post by: adrenaline_X on January 26, 2009, 01:18:00 PM
QUOTE(GamerBR @ Jan 23 2009, 05:48 AM)
I did mine today,I did not felt it was safe to leave the underside unprotected so I just left the upper part of the GPU uncovered(my problem is on it,and it's a falcon,so I didn't feel any need to reflow the solder on the cpu).
I used much more t-shirts then you did,I've used six.Instead of using thermal tape I would reccomend using a micropore surgical tape,it didn't smoke here.As I left only the upper part of the gpu uncovered I left it on a pre-heated oven for 17 minutes at 255°C,I think unlike you guys I used a kitchen stove oven,so it's much bigger than the motherboard.
I can't say it was sucessful yet,as it was working before,I did the x-clamp mod but at this point I would have to heat the board by disabing the fans almost every other day.At least it's still working.
did you do the cooling mods?
Post by: GamerBR on January 27, 2009, 01:17:00 AM
QUOTE(adrenaline_X @ Jan 26 2009, 05:54 PM)
did you do the cooling mods?
Enough?
.The fans are running at 9v.
Post by: YoungGeekGuy on February 11, 2009, 04:16:00 PM
Thanks so much for the idea, my parents didn't quite like it but it worked. My uncle suggested I try using aluminum tape instead of electrical, so if I ever do it again, I'll pick up some of that.
Post by: killamayne on February 11, 2009, 09:25:00 PM
QUOTE(YoungGeekGuy @ Feb 11 2009, 03:52 PM) 
I fixed a friends with this, here's my Youtube of it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5AZMcGwbW8
Thanks so much for the idea, my parents didn't quite like it but it worked. My uncle suggested I try using aluminum tape instead of electrical, so if I ever do it again, I'll pick up some of that.
wtf is that? u just showed the motherboard for like 5 mins...LOL
Post by: YoungGeekGuy on February 12, 2009, 07:11:00 PM
that's what happens when your tired and board.
Post by: Lugnut on March 02, 2009, 04:58:00 PM
oh well my final analysis is as everyone else has said for awhile. Once you get rrod. it will come again. Depends how hard you push the system's of course but it will come. If your a casual couple hour a week gamer, then your system might last you years. if your a hardcore gamer then month's if your lucky.
Post by: lycanwrath on May 04, 2009, 02:46:00 PM
Will this fix help me get rid of error 0110?
Has any1 ever tried to fix error 0110 with this trick?
Post by: lycanwrath on May 05, 2009, 01:52:00 PM
I tried the oven trick and my 360 is now up and running.
adrenaline_X I think you should add error 0110 as well to the list of errors this trick can fix
Post by: 4wheelsare2many on June 14, 2009, 03:56:00 AM
What about error code 0101 ?
I had freeze-ups only (no Rrod), did the x-clamp fix and it worked great for nearly 8 months. Suddenly, I got the 1,3,4 Rrod with error code 0101. I have re-tried the x-clamp fix 3-4 times now to no avail. Am I left with this oven trick as my last-resort option, and of course, has anyone done it for 0101? Thanks for any help or suggestions.
Post by: 4wheelsare2many on June 14, 2009, 04:42:00 PM
Post by: MadMaxGR on June 15, 2009, 01:55:00 AM
Post by: 4wheelsare2many on June 15, 2009, 12:46:00 PM
Post by: MadMaxGR on June 16, 2009, 02:32:00 AM
Post by: NateTheGreat555 on August 14, 2009, 01:45:00 PM
I got my 360 used Red-ringed from Ebay dirt cheap, and I fixed it initially with the X-clamp mod.
Course, that lasted about 3 weeks (never even played any games yet!) and it froze on an update.
Next thing I knew, I had the 0022 error.
I messed with the clamps and then learned that by also getting 0020 error that the screws were too tight. So I'm stuck with 0022 and don't have anywhere else to go. Don't have a heatgun, and don't want to pay a hundred bucks to send it back to M$ to get fixed.
My questions are...
1. Where can you get that blue tack putty? I'm in the US, and their site seems to be based in Europe?
Is it just normal putty you can get a a Home Depot?
2. What is the best recommended time/temp to put it in the oven for? I saw the initial post stating 500degrees for 8-10, and another saying 250 for 5 minutes. Polar opposites to me. Any suggestions?
3. Who is still using their 360 that used this mod? I'd probably use it for Rockband 2 and those games, probably not too many CoD games... Estimated time? Or is it totally unknown? (which is what I'm suspecting...)
Thanks again for any info anyone can shed on this subject for me!
PS: I=semin00b. I've only "fixed" "2" Xbox's as of yet... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
EDIT:
Is this the same kind of putty that I could use?
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none
This post has been edited by NateTheGreat555: Aug 14 2009, 08:47 PM
Post by: BroChaos on August 23, 2009, 11:09:00 PM
after it cooled down i played tiger woods for about 30 minutes with no problem. the next day i played tiger woods again for about an hour, no problem. later on that day, i turned it on, and just at the dash it froze and went to a black/white vertical lines. turned it off, turned it back on (expecting RROD) it came up and a minute later froze at the dash again, this time screen went all black. turned it off and turned it on again, and loaded up ncaa football really, fast and played a whole game (~1hr) just fine, and even went back to the dash and it was fine. at night i just played another game of ncaa football, and left it at the dash again and no problems.
never seen the black/white vertical lines before, not sure what that was about. but it is working better than it was before.
Post by: crowncity on August 26, 2009, 02:55:00 PM
Oven Fix Tut & Results
It's a three part thing and I will be adding some extra tips about how to make the fix last.
Please don't flame me about the video. I was tired after working about 10 hours and then coming home to work on xboxs. Also I kept the x-clamp on, on purpose to use it as a control against the x-clamp fix after.
I hope it helps someone on here that is confused about certain things.
Good luck boys / girls.
This post has been edited by crowncity: Aug 26 2009, 09:56 PM
Post by: adrenaline_X on September 05, 2009, 10:18:00 PM
LOL.Mind died, but i didn't bother doing anything to it again.. I got into dead ps3... people were willing to sell them for 50-80$ with just a bad laser
LOL... and the ylod of death is fixable.. just about brought out the oven for that too, but bought a high end heat Gun for cheap on sale.. it's still working for now but with the price break on the PS3s, it not worth buying new lasers at 80$ a pop.Gonna start looking at 360s again
Post by: pwyz18 on November 15, 2009, 03:38:00 AM
Post by: sod16 on November 15, 2009, 03:58:00 AM
Post by: manu_xl on November 15, 2009, 05:46:00 AM
/me will never try this at home ;-)
Post by: mnutz on June 25, 2010, 01:09:00 PM
I know it's an old thread but thanks to this I've been able to sort out my 360.
Had R74 error and I sorted that by tightening the kit screws underneath the case, then one night the screen pixelated on me. Took temp of top of GPU cooler and it was 66'c. Got it down to 50'c with the aid of a large fan and it disappeared only to come back.
I was really worried about putting it in the oven, but glad I did.
I went to a local charity shop and purchased a couple of old towels/tea towels and 1 oven glove.
The oven glove was cut up and placed over capacitors/switches & taped with electrical tape. Then I put towels over the top and taped that.
Finished it off with silver foil and used the tape that you use on bandages.
Gas mark 8 (my oven always seems to cook things faster), low down in the oven, for 9 mins. Took it out and left it to cool to room temp.
Plugged it all in and worked perfectly. Day 2 so far with lots of Red Dead Redemption playing. Desk fan always blowing on with standard cooling until I can water cool it
Would suggest everyone tries this as a last resort!
Post by: abaddon997 on October 28, 2010, 04:15:00 PM
Did this yesterday as a last attempt to breathe life back into my old Falcon board.
Covered plastic buttons with stick tack, and everything else with old winter socks.
Taped it all down with electrical tape, then used more stick tack to make a "gasket" around the cpu, gpu and ram.
Wrapped it all in an entire roll of aluminum foil and baked for 5 min at 450 degrees.
Did the quick 12v fan mod and divided the the fan vent more appropriately.
Put it all back together and BAM! Worked like a charm.
The electrical tape did not melt or smoke, and neither did the Loctite mounting putty I used.
I will follow up after a couple weeks of playing, but so far I would really recommend this to anyone with an old system just collecting dust. My old Falcon system died about a year ago. I did the usual x-clamp fix and got another 3 months out of it before the 0102 error came back. Pretty much exhausted the forums looking for any other fix and eventually just bought a new system.
Bottom line: This technique is much more reliable than the heat gun reflow imo, because it distributes heat evenly across the entire board. With proper preparation the caps will be fine, just be sure to cover everything properly.