Post by: danthaman673 on November 10, 2010, 02:09:00 AM
One small Catch: It has to be a JTAG-able console or existing JTAG (with virgin KeyVault) ie; NEVER BEEN ONLINE AFTER 8955 Dash) You will also need a SAMSUNG
drive (You can buy these online very cheaply)
*** DISCLAIMER***: This has not been tested yet, but if anyone can give me a GOOD reason why this wouldn't work then I'd like to hear
it! - And the usual 'I wont except any responsibility for your poor soldering efforts because you wouldn't shell-out the 80$ to get a pro to do it but now you
want them to fix it etc.. etc .. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
OK:
READ ALL STEPS BEFORE BEGINNING!!
STEP ONE: on virgin console (If ur using an existing JTAG then read the other steps below) - STEP ONE is: add NAND dumping/programing method. There are
several tuts/devices to do this but remember:
You don't need to at any time remove R6T3 (If you have then you will need to replace it - If u lost it <very easy 2do> then you will need to replace it with
<I think is> a 10k resistor - You may want to check that value but I'm pretty sure it will work. If you leave it off then you wont be able to update later)
You can use a more noob-proof (and slightly faster) solution like nand-x,cygnos revf, and there's another one (which name) escapes me. These are all basically
SPI flashers (you can make ur own from scratch - but you have to have the time and expertise) At any-rate if you choose the non-LPT route then you can re-cycle
the kit afterwards (on another JTAG) Some of these kits have a solder-less JTAG component, some don't. At any rate if you don't feel confident just approach a
pro and ask them to do it (either just the JTAG or the whole thing) After the JTAGing is done then the rest is relatively easy) After you have obtained the
CPU-key (see below) then you will need to remove the JTAG wiring so be prepared for that (The removal should be relatively easy)
Once thats done -
STEP TWO:
Dump your NAND then: Flash Xell or Xellous or build/flash XBR(There are many tuts on this<and some apps that do it all 4u - just be careful as some of these
sometimes have bugs/viruses etc..> - I will paste some links at the bottom later
JUST MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD DUMP FIRST.
Get Your CPU-key by booting with the eject-button. Take a photo of the 'Fuse set Key' There are dozens of tutorials on doing this also but basically you will
need the two lines that have the CPU key as most/all flashing tut's have all this info I won't bother going into more detail here (but if u have trouble with
this step and already searched how to fix it then I will support issues/queries with this here)
STEP THREE:
Ok so you have your CPU key and at least one good nand dump then you can open your NAND in 360 Flash Tool (MODFREAKZ tool make sure you use the latest version
- currently 0.97) There are plenty of tuts on this also (If you need one ) But it's pretty easy. Just make sure you have entered you CPU key or it won't open
properly. Now: Note down the DVD-ROM key from your BenQ or Liteon (copy/paste it) There's a button for saving this to a txt/info file (from memory I thinks
'save KV info' does it) NOW:Press patch, check the box for patch KV - Change the OSIG to your model of SAMSUNG. Check 'Rebuild' Add Cpu-Key from the info you
saved previously,You will then be prompted to Save a new copy of the NAND, give it a new name, load the new file you made and check that the new nand has
Samsung Ms28/Ms25 in the OSIG window.
STEP FOUR: Flash the SAMSUNG with the key from your BENQ/LITEON (use Jungle Flasher - 7 billion tuts on this) When you do: Make sure the key matches
what's in ur KVinfo.txt (U made in previous step) I would recommend using the latest version of samsung LT. Other than the key, no spoofing need be involved so
just basically flash it as would normally as if the key you had extracted from ur original FW was the one you pasted. BTW You might want to backup the original
FW before you write LT (Just a reminder) When you've done this confirm the key is correct (before and after flashing if u can) then install the sammy in ur
box.
STEP FIVE: Boot and make sure it runs a backup ( use an old one ) Then: Remove the JTAG wiring - U can leave the NAND wiring if u like. JTAG wiring is anything connected to J2D2
FINALLY: Go online and update to the new dash.
Note: Ideally do the update using original(Samsung) FW (obviously with ur original LITEON/BenQ key) first and then flash LT post update (There is no definitive reason
to do this so far, but I would recommend it is there are things to indicate that there is a slim-possibility that there may be a reason to do this - Pls dont
ask me to elaborate on this) If you don't and just update with LT then more than likely it won't matter, but I've had some conflicting info about this so you
may want to play on the ultra safe side. Just make sure you're confident with changing drive key without changing FW -as most tuts don't go into or describe
this.
You should now have a box that will run ALL backups (including AP 2.5) Online for the rest of time!!! (We hope, or at least untill they come-up with something else ..)
Let me know how it goes!
A JTAG tut (U can prolly find better by googling but this looks OK <at a glance>) http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=690493
Another JTAG Tut HERE (keep in mind I haven't checked these out but they should be OK)
Brgds/Dan
This post has been edited by danthaman673: Nov 10 2010, 10:28 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on November 10, 2010, 02:49:00 AM
QUOTE(danthaman673 @ Nov 10 2010, 04:09 AM) 
*** DISCLAIMER***: This has not been tested yet, but if anyone can give me a GOOD reason why this wouldn't work then I'd like to hear
KV hashing.
But please try and let us know how it works. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Post by: danthaman673 on November 10, 2010, 03:23:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Nov 10 2010, 07:19 PM)
Yeah that is/was one point I was a bit unsure of, But I'm pretty sure 0.97 should cover that ...
I reckon that it would be apparent before blowing the efuses if there was any trouble allthough it may pay to check the xval after re-flashing the modded nand...
M$ Must do it somehow (very similar) when they repair/upgrade drives
I will be trying it myself, when I get a suitable console (If anyone out there wants it done free - as long as I can do a proof-of-concept vid with it)
Brgds and thanx 4 the feedback, Dan
This post has been edited by danthaman673: Nov 10 2010, 11:26 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on November 10, 2010, 04:06:00 AM
QUOTE(danthaman673 @ Nov 10 2010, 05:23 AM)
Yeah that is/was one point I was a bit unsure of, But I'm pretty sure 0.97 should cover that ...
I reckon that it would be apparent before blowing the efuses if there was any trouble allthough it may pay to check the xval after re-flashing the modded nand...
M$ Must do it somehow (very similar) when they repair/upgrade drives
I will be trying it myself, when I get a suitable console (If anyone out there wants it done free - as long as I can do a proof-of-concept vid with it)
Brgds and thanx 4 the feedback, Dan
Nope .97 wont help.
I wish i understood how KV Hashing worked. You would think there would be something simple that can be done to correct the hash and make your idea work but i am almost certain if you do what you are suggesting you will kill a xbox. (and a jtag one at that)
Reading this thread might give you some insight http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/topic/3163...ved/page__st__0
Still i don't get how KV Hashing works.
Post by: shawnmos on November 10, 2010, 10:35:00 PM
I know this to be the case though since I used the jtag method to recover the key from an xbox i got off ebay. I put the key into a benq drive i had laying around and updated the dash board with no spoofing necessary. I'm assuming when i updated the benq became the "original drive".
This post has been edited by shawnmos: Nov 11 2010, 06:36 AM
Post by: Buzzcut on November 11, 2010, 02:14:00 AM