Post by: xbox360player on December 22, 2009, 08:45:00 AM
Inspired by his great idea, I have found a way to do the trick without soldering.
(source of the tutorial)
This is the overall diagram:
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/1/18/83850v2.93450.sch.jpg/720px-83850v2.93450.sch.jpg)
This is the kit we are using: CK3 and Solderless Key extractor for 83850 V2 and 93450
So, in order to dump the key, you will need to make 2 cuts on the PCB, (point A and B, make sure point A is a V cut, just to isolate the via from the trace, so best to cut from the middle of trace, as shown in the above picture). This part is relatively easy, but you better practice before you make the cut. Use a multimeter to check if the cuts are good. this is important.
The second part in the original instruction involves soldering the via, see below:
(IMG:http://pictures.xbox-scene.com/xbox360/lite-on/loboard.jpg)
Basically, you need to connect the top via to GND via a 22 ohm or lower resistor, and connect the bottom via to a 3.3v line.
Instead of soldering the wires to the PCB (in order to access GND and 3.3v line), you could use 3 wires, one end of the first wire permanently connect to a 3.3V pad on DVD power adapter by using an alligator, and the other end connect to a pogo pin (let's call it pogo pin B ), so you can hold it on the bottom via to make the connection, this is similar to the 73x firmware key extracting.
For the second wire, one end can permanently connect to the GND pad of DVD adapter, and the other end connect to a 22 ohm or lower resistor. Use 3rd wire to connect the other end of the resistor, and connect other end of the 3 wire to a pogo pin, let's call it pogo pin A.
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/6/6c/Resistor-in-header.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/9/9d/Pogo.in.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/b/b7/Clip-on.jpg/469px-Clip-on.jpg)
You do not need to connect all the flat cables originally connected to your PCB in order to extract the key. (see the pic below, the PCB is outside of the DVD housing, it is on my table).
So, you use your left hand to hold the pogo pin B on the bottom via and pogo pin A on the top via, then turn on DVD power adapter, then launch DOSFLASH or JUNGLEFLASHER. If you see status 0x72, then, release pogo pin A from top via, then click 'Read firmware' to read the firmware and save it. Do it multiple times to make sure it is correct.
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/5/5d/Liteon-touched.jpg/600px-Liteon-touched.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/1/18/Release-point-a.jpg/680px-Release-point-a.jpg)
Now you have dumped the firmware.
Next step is to use Silver Conductive Glue to rejoin the cuts. Do not use carbon based conductive glue, because they are not stick enough and it won't stay. Give the glue a couple hours to dry. After you done this, use a multimeter to check the trace are rejoined. If everything is ok, replace the PCB back to the DVD housing.
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/1/12/Refine-glue.jpg)
to be continued...
Then next step is to spoof the firmware and flash it back to your dvd.
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/7/79/Dumped.firmware.loaded.jpg/675px-Dumped.firmware.loaded.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/b/bf/Template.firmware.loaded.jpg/678px-Template.firmware.loaded.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/9/9f/Manually.spoof.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/3/37/Manual.spoofing.done.jpg/678px-Manual.spoofing.done.jpg)
Troubleshooting:
If you got status 0x80, 0x52 or 0x51, turn off your dvd power adapter for 5 seconds and turn on again, it may change to 0x72.
If the above does not work, try to replace the resistor to a lower value, e.g from 22to 20, or from 20 to 18, from 18 to 16 and try again. Do not go below 16.
If your PC freezes when you turn on your DVD power adapter, you can do it in DOS (use DOSFLASH 16bit version in DOS), or change your SATA driver to UNIATA driver as mentioned in the following tutorial and the do it again:
http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Extracting_key%2..._PC_Freezing%29
This post has been edited by xbox360player: Dec 22 2009, 04:45 PM
Post by: j3ll3 on December 22, 2009, 09:04:00 AM
(which will undoubtedly happen due to this tutorial; zomg solderless method i haz ruined my drive, i need to create dvd key now PLZ HELP)
but seriously, nice find, very useful
i'd rather solder tho.. if you're cutting the board, you might as well solder to it.
Post by: Freeloo on December 22, 2009, 09:12:00 AM
QUOTE(j3ll3 @ Dec 22 2009, 05:04 PM) 
thanks for increasing the amount of people ruining their 93450! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
(which will undoubtedly happen due to this tutorial; zomg solderless method i haz ruined my drive, i need to create dvd key now PLZ HELP)
but seriously, nice find, very useful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
i'd rather solder tho.. if you're cutting the board, you might as well solder to it.
Indeed. This is useful if someone already has a CKv3 connectivity kit and has an intense phobia of solder/irons/flux/life. But it's definitely a step in the right direction towards a method that leaves the drive completely untouched.
Post by: Ranger72 on December 22, 2009, 09:15:00 AM
Post by: xbox360player on December 22, 2009, 09:15:00 AM
QUOTE(j3ll3 @ Dec 22 2009, 11:04 AM)
thanks for increasing the amount of people ruining their 93450! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
(which will undoubtedly happen due to this tutorial; zomg solderless method i haz ruined my drive, i need to create dvd key now PLZ HELP)
but seriously, nice find, very useful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
i'd rather solder tho.. if you're cutting the board, you might as well solder to it.
Thanks :-)
yes, it is best to solder them back. However for people are afraid of soldering and eager to get 93450 modded, this is the way to go.
Even if you plan to solder it back, this way you only need to solder two points :-) less chance to mess it up.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 22, 2009, 10:09:00 AM
People are going to get glue from the traces to ground.
and people are going to slip while holding two probes and touch something bad.
Nothing but a attempt at making some money from something we could make our self if we really wanted.
I do like the part of the tutorial on making the custom firmware. That will be useful for newbies. Lots of pictures.
Post by: iateshaggy on December 22, 2009, 10:14:00 AM
Post by: ps2moduk on December 22, 2009, 11:33:00 AM
The soldering part is childs play to anyone who has modded a machine before, the points are literally as big as you want them to be.
Holding two probes and running the program to dump the firmware means people will get frustrated as they continuosly slip with the probes.
To be honest it actually looks more of a pain then the other 2 variations.
Post by: drozaxx on December 22, 2009, 11:35:00 AM
Post by: Svantesson666 on December 22, 2009, 11:56:00 AM
QUOTE(drozaxx @ Dec 22 2009, 07:35 PM)
are we able to use the 360 xtractor pro instead of the connectivity kit v3?
Yes you would. Just connect to 3.3V and GND on the 360 Xtractor Pro.
Nice tutorial btw even though this looks lika abit more of a fuss then soldering. Leaves almost no marks on the PCB though. Very nice and clean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: xbox360player on December 22, 2009, 12:00:00 PM
QUOTE(drozaxx @ Dec 22 2009, 01:35 PM)
are we able to use the 360 xtractor pro instead of the connectivity kit v3?
As long as you have easy access to 3.3V, then you are OK. GND should be easily accessible because the middle tWo pins of Molex are GND, or your PC case (just use a multimeter to check it).
Molex pin:
(IMG:http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/1404/molexwa3.jpg)
This post has been edited by xbox360player: Dec 22 2009, 08:01 PM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 22, 2009, 12:14:00 PM
QUOTE(ps2moduk @ Dec 22 2009, 06:33 PM)
Props for the tutorial however i think people are more worried about cutting tracks than the actual soldering.
The soldering part is childs play to anyone who has modded a machine before, the points are literally as big as you want them to be.
Holding two probes and running the program to dump the firmware means people will get frustrated as they continuosly slip with the probes.
To be honest it actually looks more of a pain then the other 2 variations.
^ This
Seriously - wait 2 hours for the conductive glue to set? Can you see ANYONE actually waiting that amount of time? What if the join bonds but there's no connectivity? It'll be no end of pain for anyone to repair it (and no doubt the people doing this will be trying to correct it themselves firstly).
Yes, soldering is cleaner - if you've got the iron out to re-join the cut tracks, you might as well solder the 2 wires and bridge too.
Post by: hetster on December 22, 2009, 12:25:00 PM
only thing is my ck3 kit doesnt have the points..is the probe that was used for the old liteons a 3.3v source? or will i need to use a 3.3v source from the drive cable.
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 22 2009, 08:56 PM
Post by: speedy2721 on December 22, 2009, 01:32:00 PM
http://www.diygadget.com/media/catalog/pro...450-600_1_1.jpg
Post by: ps2moduk on December 22, 2009, 02:51:00 PM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 22 2009, 09:14 PM) 
^ This
Seriously - wait 2 hours for the conductive glue to set? Can you see ANYONE actually waiting that amount of time? What if the join bonds but there's no connectivity? It'll be no end of pain for anyone to repair it (and no doubt the people doing this will be trying to correct it themselves firstly).
Yes, soldering is cleaner - if you've got the iron out to re-join the cut tracks, you might as well solder the 2 wires and bridge too.
2 hours
damn you could fly through loads of drives in that time. I hate the idea of repairing botched attempts
Also does it come with the resistor attached 22ohms?? And then when a drive wont read with 22 you have to drop down to 20 or 18 so your gonna have to get the iron out.
I seriously do not recommend unskilled people try this out unless they are prepared to kill their drive and pay a lot more to get it repaired.
Lets face it anyone who is doing bulk drives would not be using something like this it is aimed more at the one timer and for the price and the risk it is surely easier to pay someone to dump the drive for you and ask them to provide the dumped firmware for future use.
Post by: Drefsab on December 22, 2009, 03:53:00 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 22, 2009, 03:56:00 PM
This post has been edited by Takashi: Dec 22 2009, 11:57 PM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 22, 2009, 04:22:00 PM
QUOTE(Drefsab @ Dec 22 2009, 10:53 PM)
Sorry if this is daft but I'm just a little confused on this, people are saying this method isn't good ok fair enough I accept that because there's a lot of people on here know a lot more than me, but the reasons mentioned is that the pads are likely to get damaged when you cut the tracks. Now this is what I'm lost because you have to cut the tracks on every method I've seen so doesn't that make it just as risky on that part?
Someone with the right tools would just use a fibreglass pencil to expose the copper on the track, then cut through it with a craft knide enough to stop continuity. Then once it's all done, apply a little flux to the exposed area and flow a little solder over the break - good as new and takes seconds to repair.
Post by: Drefsab on December 22, 2009, 04:34:00 PM
Would that then mean an improvement to this method be to use the fiber glass pen and craft knife method to to the cutting?
Obviously then the fastest way to repair later would be soldering defeating the soldering method I just want to check that im understanding the issues
Post by: ps2moduk on December 22, 2009, 06:45:00 PM
This means the cuts are further apart and reduces the risk of lifting pad 101.
The fact you are taking the drive apart and cutting tracks means it is simple enough to solder in a couple of wires/a simple switch and a resistor.
Post by: xbox360player on December 22, 2009, 07:55:00 PM
QUOTE(hetster @ Dec 22 2009, 02:25 PM)
only thing is my ck3 kit doesnt have the points..is the probe that was used for the old liteons a 3.3v source? or will i need to use a 3.3v source from the drive cable.
no, all the probes are not 3.3v source. You will need to find a 3.3 source on your ck3. If you plan to solder, then, I recommend you solder the 3.3v to an external source, e.g your PC's 3.3v, or your ck3, even a battery pak (use 2 AAA size should do the work, but make sure they share the common GND).
The key is, do not mess with your liteon pcb if possible.
QUOTE(ps2moduk @ Dec 22 2009, 04:51 PM)
2 hours (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sleeping.gif) damn you could fly through loads of drives in that time.
I hate the idea of repairing botched attempts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Also does it come with the resistor attached 22ohms?? And then when a drive wont read with 22 you have to drop down to 20 or 18 so your gonna have to get the iron out.
I seriously do not recommend unskilled people try this out unless they are prepared to kill their drive and pay a lot more to get it repaired.
Lets face it anyone who is doing bulk drives would not be using something like this it is aimed more at the one timer and for the price and the risk it is surely easier to pay someone to dump the drive for you and ask them to provide the dumped firmware for future use.
I said two hours just be on the safe side.
for changing resistors, see the pic below:
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/6/6c/Resistor-in-header.jpg)
just unplug the resistor and reinsert a lower value one.
Post by: terodeg on December 23, 2009, 06:24:00 AM
how's about the inquiry key that is down the dvd key?
inquiry.bin was extracted in old mod, so i think that u should copy also the inquiry key, not only the dvd key!
Post by: newboxflash on December 23, 2009, 08:07:00 AM
nice to see some alternatives on the site
keep them coming, i agree with the 2hrs wait not chance people want it doing in 10 mins like the other drives
Post by: xbox360player on December 23, 2009, 06:54:00 PM
QUOTE(newboxflash @ Dec 23 2009, 10:07 AM)
cheers for the info
nice to see some alternatives on the site
keep them coming, i agree with the 2hrs wait not chance people want it doing in 10 mins like the other drives
If you are not afraid of soldering, you can solder it as well. The difference is how many points you are going to solder on the PCB:
diygadget's method: 2 places (rejoin the via and trace)
original method: 6 places (GND, R101 via, rejoin via back to 3.3v trace, 3.3v line, point B and rejoin the trace above point (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif).
Less work on the PCB will give you less chance to mess up anything.
I mention 2 hours just to be on the safe side, in my test, it dried in 5 minutes.
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/d/d0/Method.advance.jpg/768px-Method.advance.jpg)
This post has been edited by xbox360player: Dec 24 2009, 02:55 AM
Post by: jackmanfred on December 28, 2009, 02:35:00 PM
Has anybody got the kit? I've got loads of friends hassling me to mod there new elites. I managed to solder and dump mine using the og MRA method. I haven't got the time or the patients to do anymore so i want to know if i could recommend these?
Cheers
J
Post by: Takashi on December 28, 2009, 02:37:00 PM
Post by: iglitare on December 28, 2009, 03:14:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 28 2009, 10:37 PM)
BoxxDr's method is much much easier and safer imo.
thats very right.
and you need to solder anyway, all this silver paste joining is crap.
you cut and resolder the traces.
Post by: xbox360player on December 28, 2009, 07:32:00 PM
I have mentioned in post #24, if you want to solder it, with diygadget's method, you only need to solder 2 points, and only need to remove paints on two points. It is the best method so far.
There's no reason to solder a wire for 3.3v from liteon PCB.
There's no reason to solder a wire for GND from liteon PCB.
You can access these from CK3. Why mess up with liteon PCB?
Post by: tjhart85 on December 28, 2009, 11:54:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 29, 2009, 12:17:00 AM
QUOTE(tjhart85 @ Dec 29 2009, 01:54 AM)
I'm going to grab one of these kits since I would like the connectivity kit anyways and if I can only have to resolder 2 points instead of 6, I'm game!
If you can't solder 6 what makes you think you can solder 2 ?
Post by: bootmonster on December 29, 2009, 01:13:00 AM
Post by: xbox360player on December 29, 2009, 06:06:00 AM
QUOTE(bootmonster @ Dec 29 2009, 03:13 AM)
Would this work with the Xecuter CK3 Pro? Is there a 3.3v point anywhere on the board, or a ground for that matter?
it should, all CK3 have 3.3V and GND. you just need to use a multimeter to figure them out.
GND is the easiest one, the metal case of your PC should be GND.
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 29, 2009, 07:11:00 AM
for all the messing,boxxdr method works best rather than risking ataching stuff to a kit increasing risks of electrical killed drives.
Post by: hetster on December 29, 2009, 07:30:00 AM
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 29 2009, 03:30 PM
Post by: bootmonster on December 29, 2009, 08:46:00 AM
Post by: tjhart85 on December 29, 2009, 10:29:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 29 2009, 01:17 AM)
If you can't solder 6 what makes you think you can solder 2 ?
Did I say anything about not being capable of soldering 6 wires? I'm pretty sure that I said that I wanted the connectivity kit & if I only had to solder 2 wires instead of 6 it's a plus.
Post by: NinjaNoodles on December 29, 2009, 12:06:00 PM
Post by: iglitare on December 29, 2009, 12:24:00 PM
QUOTE(tjhart85 @ Dec 29 2009, 06:29 PM)
Did I say anything about not being capable of soldering 6 wires? I'm pretty sure that I said that I wanted the connectivity kit & if I only had to solder 2 wires instead of 6 it's a plus.
sure.
solder only two wires and mess arround with 4 spears and no good connections is much better then having 4 wires (not 6, learn counting) to solder and a solid connection + switch
for all who are not able to solder, or finding it "easier" to mess arround with clamps and spears...
Good luck, and find someone who can do a good solder job to fix your console after you short-cutted your spears and clamps and open resistors.
this method is not reccomended at all.
Post by: jackmanfred on December 29, 2009, 03:04:00 PM
the less cutting and pulling apart the more chance we can raise warranty requests for them
j
Post by: xbox360player on December 31, 2009, 05:35:00 AM
Everyone is using the solderless way (putting a probe onto the R707 pad) to get the key from 7xxx liteon. This method is available for more than a year now. The difference this time is you put 2 probes instead of one, and you release one in the middle. That's it.
also as I mentioned many many times, the advantage here is less cutting and less soldering (if you want to solder it). Less chance to mess up your liteon PCB.
This post has been edited by xbox360player: Dec 31 2009, 01:38 PM
Post by: hetster on December 31, 2009, 10:34:00 AM
insert the probe and intro and get 0x72 then remove probe and intro again..this way i still have the wires soldered to the traces for the 3.3v continuity and use the probe instead of switch..this means the pad101 can remain untouched..
ive flashed 5 with that method and havent so far done any damage to pad101 since lol
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 31 2009, 06:35 PM
Post by: iglitare on January 01, 2010, 12:58:00 PM
QUOTE(hetster @ Dec 31 2009, 06:34 PM)
i have actualy started to do a hybrid method..i do the soldering nearly the same as boxxdr but i dont solder anything to pad101..i leave that well alone after a few nightmares lol..i then added a probe to the opppositte end of the resistor and solder that to the ground the same as boxxdr. but instead of using a switch i use the probe now..
insert the probe and intro and get 0x72 then remove probe and intro again..this way i still have the wires soldered to the traces for the 3.3v continuity and use the probe instead of switch..this means the pad101 can remain untouched..
ive flashed 5 with that method and havent so far done any damage to pad101 since lol
thats a solid method and makes absolute sense.
one probe is ok.
but dont mess with 3 probes and GND and Vcc...
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 01, 2010, 01:37:00 PM
QUOTE(iglitare @ Jan 1 2010, 02:58 PM)
thats a solid method and makes absolute sense.
one probe is ok.
but dont mess with 3 probes and GND and Vcc...
I agree! 1 probe is fine. Good idea.
Post by: msittes on January 01, 2010, 04:04:00 PM
Can I get 3.3V and GND from drive power cabel?
PIN 4 = Eject status. (will give me 3.3 V when drive is ejected)
PIN 5 = Ground
or
PIN 6 = 3.3V (I will use something like an LM3940 for this)
PIN 7 = Ground
Post by: jackmanfred on January 02, 2010, 06:57:00 AM
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YAOH0dSsAKM/SnbVBfap...urce%5B5%5D.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDC...ctorToMolex.jpg
let us know how you get on.
j
Post by: tendy7 on January 03, 2010, 05:58:00 AM
QUOTE(hetster @ Jan 1 2010, 12:34 AM)
i have actualy started to do a hybrid method..i do the soldering nearly the same as boxxdr but i dont solder anything to pad101..i leave that well alone after a few nightmares lol..i then added a probe to the opppositte end of the resistor and solder that to the ground the same as boxxdr. but instead of using a switch i use the probe now..
insert the probe and intro and get 0x72 then remove probe and intro again..this way i still have the wires soldered to the traces for the 3.3v continuity and use the probe instead of switch..this means the pad101 can remain untouched..
ive flashed 5 with that method and havent so far done any damage to pad101 since lol
do you have any pic of this method?
thanks
Post by: iglitare on January 03, 2010, 06:27:00 AM
QUOTE(tendy7 @ Jan 3 2010, 01:58 PM)
do you have any pic of this method?
thanks
picture?
its quite easy, he discribed it very well.
you don´t need any picture to turn off or on you computer, don´t you? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Post by: hetster on January 03, 2010, 08:34:00 AM
(IMG:http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/hetster/probe.jpg)
This post has been edited by hetster: Jan 3 2010, 04:36 PM
Post by: xbox360player on January 03, 2010, 03:29:00 PM
QUOTE(iglitare @ Jan 1 2010, 02:58 PM)
thats a solid method and makes absolute sense.
one probe is ok.
but dont mess with 3 probes and GND and Vcc...
No one can handle 3 probes, unless you ask someone to help.
This method uses 2 probes, not 3.
Post by: tendy7 on January 04, 2010, 05:31:00 AM
QUOTE(hetster @ Jan 3 2010, 10:34 PM)
sorry about this i just photoshopped it lol..as soon as i do another i will take a real image..
Thanks bro for the nice pic (clearly enough) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
@ xbox360player
after read/dump key. do i need to half open tray when flashing?
and if i want to upgrade the fw in the future do i need to cut the trace again?
thanks
This post has been edited by tendy7: Jan 4 2010, 01:41 PM
Post by: jackmanfred on January 04, 2010, 10:38:00 AM
i would flash the key to another drive just to make sure its a good dump.
j
Post by: tornadog on January 04, 2010, 05:20:00 PM
Post by: xbox360player on January 06, 2010, 07:18:00 PM
QUOTE(tornadog @ Jan 4 2010, 07:20 PM)
I have used the ck2 b4 to dump key from liteon 7xxx. But how easy is this compared to that?
it is little bit harder than that. The difference this time is you first need to cut the trace, then hold 2 probes and release one in the middle of reading, after all these, you then need to repair the trace back.
thanks
QUOTE(tendy7 @ Jan 4 2010, 07:31 AM)
Thanks bro for the nice pic (clearly enough) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
@ xbox360player
after read/dump key. do i need to half open tray when flashing?
and if i want to upgrade the fw in the future do i need to cut the trace again?
thanks
1: No. half open is for the 7xxx reading. for 83xxx v2 and 9xxx, it doesn't matter, see the wiki here:
http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/XBOX_360_Liteon_...ess_Key_Dumping
2: No. Once you got the key, then you are done with the pcb. If you need to update flash, just erase and flash it with new FW again.
Post by: bono82 on January 18, 2010, 05:54:00 AM
Is it possible to extract the key from 74350 liteons with the "v-shaped pad 101" cut method? or its solely meant for 8 and 9 series liteons? because i cant find my liteon drive in dosflash, have checked that the cuts are good, but it just wont show up, also tried open and closed tray.
pcb connected with sata to the computer and all the "drive cables" disconnected.
This post has been edited by bono82: Jan 18 2010, 01:54 PM
Post by: Lobsterone on January 19, 2010, 02:40:00 PM
Post by: danzio2020 on January 19, 2010, 03:37:00 PM
QUOTE(Lobsterone @ Jan 19 2010, 02:40 PM)
I tried Boxxdr's method on a 93450, extracted the key, and supposedly flashed the drive ok according to jungleflasher. When I reconnected the traces and booted the console, got the red rings. I know I did everything right. Any ideas?
Same thing happened to me, but I used the DIYGadget kit and instructions. 3 rings when drive is in, and it won't power on at all after traces were reconnected.
Post by: shtewps on January 19, 2010, 05:06:00 PM
Get out your magnifying glass and fix it. You can also verify that the red rings is indeed a drive issue by booting the console without the drive connected.
Post by: lilhubbyboy on January 19, 2010, 09:06:00 PM
QUOTE(hetster @ Jan 3 2010, 07:34 AM)
sorry about this i just photoshopped it lol..as soon as i do another i will take a real image..
(IMG:http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/hetster/probe.jpg)
This is probably be a noob question but looking at your picture, I was wondering if I really needed the probe? Couldn't I just touch the other end of the resistor to pad101?
Post by: Lobsterone on January 20, 2010, 08:18:00 AM
QUOTE(shtewps @ Jan 20 2010, 02:06 AM)
^ you guys have created a solder bridge somewhere. Check ALL of your traces. The solder from the trace repair can be almost undetectable to the untrained eye if it is touched another trace or pin on the PCB.
Get out your magnifying glass and fix it. You can also verify that the red rings is indeed a drive issue by booting the console without the drive connected.
Indeed, I rechecked and there was a tiny bit of solder to GND. Cleaned it up, worked like a charm. Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: garlon on January 20, 2010, 10:58:00 AM
Then you just need to reconnect traces no need to solder wires
QUOTE(lilhubbyboy @ Jan 20 2010, 06:06 AM)
This is probably be a noob question but looking at your picture, I was wondering if I really needed the probe? Couldn't I just touch the other end of the resistor to pad101?
You dont need the pogo pin you can just touch pad101 with the resistor.
Post by: xbox360player on February 10, 2010, 11:51:00 AM
QUOTE(bono82 @ Jan 18 2010, 07:54 AM)
Got the kit from diygadget today, very fast shipping (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Is it possible to extract the key from 74350 liteons with the "v-shaped pad 101" cut method? or its solely meant for 8 and 9 series liteons? because i cant find my liteon drive in dosflash, have checked that the cuts are good, but it just wont show up, also tried open and closed tray.
pcb connected with sata to the computer and all the "drive cables" disconnected.
Yes you can. But if you hvae 74350, you better do it via serial or usb, it's safer.
QUOTE(Lobsterone @ Jan 19 2010, 04:40 PM)
I tried Boxxdr's method on a 93450, extracted the key, and supposedly flashed the drive ok according to jungleflasher. When I reconnected the traces and booted the console, got the red rings. I know I did everything right. Any ideas?
You have a short circuit somewhere.
Post by: bozo89 on February 12, 2010, 02:15:00 AM
BTW great work... thanks
Post by: niccador on February 23, 2010, 09:48:00 AM
Exactly how long does this stuff take to dry/set and be usable? Does it only bond/react with other metal (i.e., the pcb copper?)
I've got a small glob of it here on a piece of paper on my desk, been sitting there over 12 hours now, and is still in a wet paste form. Curious stuff.
Post by: xbox360player on February 23, 2010, 12:12:00 PM
QUOTE(niccador @ Feb 23 2010, 11:48 AM)
So...I'm trying to experiment a little with this silver conductive glue...
Exactly how long does this stuff take to dry/set and be usable? Does it only bond/react with other metal (i.e., the pcb copper?)
I've got a small glob of it here on a piece of paper on my desk, been sitting there over 12 hours now, and is still in a wet paste form. Curious stuff.
The best is to use a hairdryer to speed the process.
Post by: tornadog on February 25, 2010, 09:41:00 AM
Also the tutorial shows how to read fw using dosflash. I want to do it using the new jungleflasher. Can someone walk me through step by step as to when I should connect the 2 pins and when to leave one out???
Post by: slayer902 on March 14, 2010, 08:30:00 AM
QUOTE(xbox360player @ Feb 23 2010, 08:12 PM)
The best is to use a hairdryer to speed the process.
hairdryer ? is that really safe to use considering the material of the pcb ?? without a hairdryer, how long does it take to dry ? was fiddling around with some of it the other day, still wasn't completing the circuit after 2 hours..
Post by: extremee on March 22, 2010, 11:12:00 AM
I can always use the T-X360 power adapter to power my 0800 drive for ripping (so not all is lost).
I have read and flashed several drives in the past (even a Lite-On 94350c using the Vampire.)
This pogo probes are useless and break easily if too much pressure is applied (and I'm super gentle).
The alligator clips have to be positioned precisely on the GND and 3.3V pads in a certain position or the proper current will not be transferred to the probe wires.
I have been able to get my 93450c into vendor mode using this garbage (my cuts are clean and multimeter-verified) but for some reason I keep getting the "parse failed" message after the 4 banks are done reading.
Here's the JF log:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JungleFlasher 0.1.73 Beta (108)
Session Started Mon Mar 22 12:15:50 2010
This is a 32 bit process running on a 32 bit CPU
portio32.sys Driver Installed
portio32.sys Driver Started, thanks Schtrom !
Found 8 I/O Ports.
Found 1 Com Ports.
Found 9 windows drives A: C: D: E: F: G: H: I: J:
Found 2 CD/DVD drives D: E:
Sending Vendor Intro to port 0xAC00
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Sending Device ID request to port 0xAC00
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
Getting Status from port 0xAC00
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Lite-On Dump file saved to C:\Documents and Settings\user\Desktop\Lite-OFW.bin
Loading firmware from buffer
Parse Failed !
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Even with clean cuts and the ability to get the drive into vendor mode, I can't get JF to show the drive's properties. It's been a very frustrating 3 hours and I plan to purchase the Vampire as it proved it's usefulness the last time I borrowed it from a friend.
This device gets 2 HUGE thumbs down!!
Post by: brisk on March 26, 2010, 07:14:00 PM
QUOTE(extremee @ Mar 22 2010, 06:12 PM)
This pogo probes are useless and break easily if too much pressure is applied (and I'm super gentle).
Any pogo pin is like this, as it has a tiny spring inside the tube, so if you force it you will break it.
QUOTE(extremee @ Mar 22 2010, 06:12 PM)
The alligator clips have to be positioned precisely on the GND and 3.3V pads in a certain position or the proper current will not be transferred to the probe wires.
What is the problem with this? Similar to batteries, they have positive and negative, can you mess them up?
QUOTE(extremee @ Mar 22 2010, 06:12 PM)
I have been able to get my 93450c into vendor mode using this garbage (my cuts are clean and multimeter-verified) but for some reason I keep getting the "parse failed" message after the 4 banks are done reading.
Since you can get 0x72, then there is nothing wrong with this kit. You also made good cut, so the only issues is probably timing. I have no issue to use this kit for my mods, you just need to keep trying.
this post may help as well:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/lofiversion/i...hp/t703041.html
Remember, do follow instructions step by step and you will get the dump for sure.
Post by: Kyoroshi on May 10, 2010, 08:52:00 PM
Post by: iateshaggy on May 10, 2010, 09:09:00 PM
(IMG:http://i46.tinypic.com/11mdro1.jpg)
This post has been edited by iateshaggy: May 11 2010, 04:11 AM
Post by: spookyman166 on May 20, 2010, 03:49:00 AM
its a very good kit but i reackon that 37.99USD is too much for just a few wires, 3 switches, some pongo's and a few passive components.
Post by: xbox360player on May 21, 2010, 07:49:00 PM
QUOTE(spookyman166 @ May 20 2010, 05:49 AM)
I used this kit and it worked after i changed my stata port connector.
its a very good kit but i reackon that 37.99USD is too much for just a few wires, 3 switches, some pongo's and a few passive components.
Thanks. However for $37.99 you get:
DVD adapter to power your Liteon with power cable
SATA adapter to connect your 360 HDD to your pc with SATA cable
USB solderless probe for your 7450c
and solderless kit for your 8 and 9 liteon
BTW, do NOT forgot to apply coupon code 'xbox-scene' to get 15% off! so for above is $32.29 shipped if you are in USA or canada.
Or if you only need it for 8/9 liteon, it will be $25.49 shipped after coupon.
BTW, we are working on a solder patch, you permanently solder it on the board, it will be available soon.
We are also working on a solderless adapter adapter for the NAND read/write, so no need to solder 7 wires on to the mother board (you still need to solder diodes etc for JTAG)
Post by: halleluia on May 30, 2010, 08:20:00 AM
Post by: iateshaggy on May 30, 2010, 10:21:00 AM
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on June 24, 2010, 02:21:00 PM
Only modification I did was superglue the components to a pcb board to make a sort of spear, holding them free hand is a mission. I think Diygadget should add this to their product, even if it pushes up the cost by $2!
Here are some pics of my final setup:
(IMG:http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9766/95387749.jpg)
(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/7685/35428474.jpg)
I used the 19 ohm resistor and it worked perfect!
The tutorial I followed was this one:
http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/XBOX_360_Liteon_...ess_Key_Dumping
Except I did the straight cut across pad 101 and I used Jungle Flasher.
Here are my cuts:
(IMG:http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/3839/67005036.jpg)
(IMG:http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4145/55445822.jpg)
Here is what I did that worked well in JungleFlasher:
- open jungle flasher and click on MTK Flash 32
- hold the homemade probe in place. Black on top, red on the bottom.
- click on Intro/Device ID and wait 3 seconds till the dots start then quickly power on the drive and the status should change to 0x72
- Then a pop up will come up, disconnect the top probe (black one which is ground) and then click OK
- It should then read the drive chipset properties and display it like below:
(IMG:http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/570/propertiesab.png)
- If that info looks correct, click Read and it will read the banks.
Enjoy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
My soldering really sucks ass so the conductive glue is a winner for me! Also please please please use a multimeter to check your cuts and make sure you have no shorts!
This post has been edited by ImRickJamesB1tch: Jun 24 2010, 09:24 PM
Post by: Buzzcut on June 25, 2010, 01:40:00 AM
Cheap? Don't you mean $9.80 too expensive?
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on June 25, 2010, 03:15:00 AM
QUOTE(Buzzcut @ Jun 25 2010, 09:40 AM)
You can just as easily make one with 2 sewing needles, a bit of breadboard and one 18 Ohm resistor. Wire it into the DVD connector to get the Ground and 3V.
Cheap? Don't you mean $9.80 too expensive?
I'm not one for electronics so I didn't have the crocodile clips, pogo pins, conductive glue or the resistors just laying around, so would have needed to purchase them anyhow! I'm happy paying $10 for that since I make about $50 a flash. Also I don't mind supporting Diygadget, they provide some great indepth tutorials and some really nice cheap alternatives...I own a few of their products, none have given me any issues.
Post by: Buzzcut on June 25, 2010, 03:46:00 AM