Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 05, 2009, 12:14:00 AM
The only difference between my method and MRA's is that he instructs people to cut "pad101" away from the trace. The problem is that this is not that easy for most people. After you do it his way the pad is very weak. Many people broke the pad off while cutting it from the trace and others damaged it after when they heated it up to solder. So I came up with a 3 cut & 2 jump method that I think is much safer for the average user. Also he has the Ground point going to a tiny pad when most of the circuit board is Ground.
Also i have included some very high quality pictures that show every step in great detail.
See all the pictures in DOUBLE the resolution at this LINK
Instructions (also by MRA i changed a few words)
-Switch in closed postion (on) (position 1 on MRA's diagram)
-power drive
-start dosflash --> spi should get discovered with status 0x72
-Flip switch to open position (off) (position 2 on MRA's diagram)
-click READ
-If you have a Winbond SPI Flash inside (i know, you can´t be sure about this from the outside) you will probably get status 0x72 but instead of recognizing the Winbond flash it will be recognized as unknown flash chip (manufacturer and device ID 0xFF). If that is the case you can´t use Dosflash anymore, you have to use JF!
-start JF
-put the switch in position 1 (ON)
-power drive
-in the MTKFlash Tab click "intro"
-it shoudl get "recognized" as unknown flash chip with status 0x72 like it was in Dosflash
-put switch in position 2 (OFF)
-click onto "intro" again
-now JF should recognize the Winbond SPI with status 0x72 and you can dump the whole drive
IMPORTANT: Don´t power the drive down between the 2 intros!
Post by: JamesNY on December 05, 2009, 01:21:00 AM
how to hack firmware
please
i dont wanna brick...
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 05, 2009, 01:28:00 AM
QUOTE(JamesNY @ Dec 5 2009, 03:21 AM) 
this is excellent but what is next step?
how to hack firmware
please
i dont wanna brick...
There is a thread for that. Ask any question about creating the hacked firmware in the thread linked below.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=697955
These drives can't be bricked. If something goes wrong during firmware writting you can erase it and start over.
Post by: JamesNY on December 05, 2009, 01:45:00 AM
here is another question
do i use ixtreme 1.6 for all liteon drives or i download some new ixtreme
im asking this question because i was searching for download new ixtreme for 93450c but i cant find it anywhere
can i put key into 734... drive
please answer me this one
btw i use dosflash command
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 05, 2009, 01:52:00 AM
Maximus created what he calls firmware templates. They can be found on xbins. Here is a link to the info http://www.xbins.org...xboxnfo1754.nfo
FYI direct links to firmware are not allowed.
Your questions are about firmware so they really should go into the other thread. I would prefer it if this thread answered questions about the soldering and wiring.
I use dosflash32 myself. I have not used dosflash16 in years.
Post by: JamesNY on December 05, 2009, 01:53:00 AM
good work btw
Post by: JamesNY on December 05, 2009, 02:21:00 AM
i saw that you doing wii mods
so im asking u did u put wii wasp2 chip onto 4.0e console because i have those chips and they aren't working on my 4.0e console
do i need to downgrade it
Post by: green360 on December 05, 2009, 05:57:00 AM
thanck you very much
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 05, 2009, 08:55:00 AM
QUOTE(green360 @ Dec 5 2009, 07:57 AM)
well done & good job but personally I hope it will be a slution to dump this liteons drive's without soldering/cuting anytihng on the PCB (with a made-home tool's !!!!!)
thanck you very much
Not me. This makes the hack hard enough that most people will hire someone to do it. Most of my local competitors don't know how to use a soldering iron.
No homemade tool is going to be able to cut traces and that is required to pull down the voltage to make this hack work.
I don't think c4eva or team jungle are going to spend any time working on a software dumping method now that this is possible.
Post by: arielzadi on December 05, 2009, 09:07:00 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 05, 2009, 09:53:00 AM
QUOTE(arielzadi @ Dec 5 2009, 11:07 AM)
where can i buy a LENLINE brush?
Please buy it from
Nutech Electronics
11E Neilson Street
St. Catharines, Ontario
Tel: (905) 682-9200
Fax: (905) 682-8922
Toll Free: 1-866-6NU-TECH
Email: [email protected]
Let them know BOXXDR sent you.
They don't have online ordering but you can simply send them a email and let them know what you want.
You can also get your resistors and a switch from them at the same time if you need it.
You might want to order 22ohm and 20ohm. If you are getting status 0x52 a 20ohm resistor is supposto to help.
Post by: arielzadi on December 05, 2009, 10:14:00 AM
Post by: xbox360sexual on December 05, 2009, 10:14:00 AM
Post by: Blargharg on December 05, 2009, 10:15:00 AM
This post has been edited by Blargharg: Dec 5 2009, 06:16 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 05, 2009, 10:33:00 AM
QUOTE(Blargharg @ Dec 5 2009, 12:15 PM)
Boxxdr, this looks absolutely awesome, great job. By the way, what did you use to cut those traces? It may just be due to pic magnification, but it doesn't look like a regular scalpel cut?
Well this might sound scary to some people but I used a high speed rotary tool. (aka Dremel grinder)
Here is what you do.
Use a very small cutting wheel. If you don't have a small one wear a big one down on a rock or something until it is less than half a inch in diameter.
Set your rotary tool at a low speed setting.
Hold circuit board and tool very steady. Make a few tiny taps until you clearly see you have separated the trace. If you are not sure check with a multi-meter but as you can see in my picture t should be really obvious.
Also it is good to note this is a single layer circuit board so you would have to grind really far to go thru to the other side and do damage.
I would love to hear from other experts on how they cut the traces.
QUOTE(arielzadi @ Dec 5 2009, 12:14 PM)
i just gave them a call and they dont have it in stock right now but i wiil try again in a couple of days
Ask them if they have the lenline slimline in stock. It is probably a better brush for this type of detail work anyhow.
Post by: Blargharg on December 05, 2009, 10:36:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 5 2009, 06:33 PM) 
Well this might sound scary to some people but I used a high speed rotary tool. (aka Dremel grinder)
Here is what you do.
Use a very small cutting wheel. If you don't have a small one wear a big one down on a rock or something until it is less than half a inch in diameter.
Set your rotary tool at a low speed setting.
Hold circuit board and tool very steady. Make a few tiny taps until you clearly see you have separated the trace. If you are not sure check with a multi-meter but as you can see in my picture t should be really obvious.
Also it is good to note this is a single layer circuit board so you would have to grind really far to go thru to the other side and do damage.
I would love to hear from other experts on how they cut the traces.
Ask them if they have the lenline slimline in stock. It is probably a better brush for this type of detail work anyhow.
You're right, it does sound scary (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
I think I'm just gonna stick with the scalpel method... although, now that you mention it, I'm sure there are some precision files out there that would be perfect for this job... Should also be cheaper than a Dremel for someone who doesn't have one or doesn't need one.
Post by: Siph3r on December 05, 2009, 11:31:00 AM
just so that I can practise this - would it work on an old 74850C ? I have a few of them lying about could I test / practice it with one before actually doing the v9?
Post by: Blargharg on December 05, 2009, 11:34:00 AM
QUOTE(Siph3r @ Dec 5 2009, 07:31 PM)
cool
just so that I can practise this - would it work on an old 74850C ? I have a few of them lying about could I test / practice it with one before actually doing the v9?
Should work with all LiteOns.
Post by: Mholt215 on December 05, 2009, 11:38:00 AM
Post by: chorizo1 on December 05, 2009, 11:49:00 AM
QUOTE(Mholt215 @ Dec 5 2009, 12:38 PM)
Whats the point in doing this again? Does it allow you to flash the new lite ons???
no it's just there to make it look cool. did you bother to read the thread? here's another front page news item that could have hit you upside the face:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=697942
@ OP great tut, and very clear pics.
This post has been edited by chorizo1: Dec 5 2009, 07:54 PM
Post by: mksoftware on December 05, 2009, 08:40:00 PM
Post by: smuddge37 on December 05, 2009, 10:06:00 PM
much clearer and easier to do.
you covered all bases.
thanks for your hard work
Post by: Toddler on December 06, 2009, 12:49:00 AM
Come to think of it, I've been planning to solder a NAND reader onto my system board and "go Haitian" on it to reverse the ban status, but I'm feeling lazy. Is that a job you'd consider? PM me if you want to discuss.
Post by: iateshaggy on December 06, 2009, 01:41:00 AM
Post by: steellam on December 06, 2009, 01:48:00 AM
QUOTE(mksoftware @ Dec 6 2009, 05:40 AM)
I used a sharp knife to cut the traces, which isn't actually a hard deal at all! The soldering was a piece of cake, I'm still used to the 27 wire modchips for Xbox and Playstation 2.
Amen to that, if anyone here thinks this is hard work try a 27 wire ps2 modchip, I still have nightmares !
Many thanks for the pics and info looks easy enough to me.
Post by: TingedAce on December 06, 2009, 02:50:00 AM
What type/gauge of wire do you recommend using for this?
Post by: Vampirtc2 on December 06, 2009, 04:15:00 AM
I have just purchased Ersa RDS 80 soldering station where I can pick a temperature. What would you recommend?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 06, 2009, 10:36:00 AM
QUOTE(TingedAce @ Dec 6 2009, 04:50 AM)
Excellent stuff!
What type/gauge of wire do you recommend using for this?
I used 30 AWG kynar wire. Keep your wires short for best results.
For patching the traces after i used a peice of stranded wire from a dead benq drive i had here.
QUOTE(Vampirtc2 @ Dec 6 2009, 06:15 AM)
Thank you. I have never soldered before but I have no choice now. What is great flux?
I have just purchased Ersa RDS 80 soldering station where I can pick a temperature. What would you recommend?
Most people use rosin flux but for best results you can use acid flux. WARNING if you use acid flux you need to 100% clean it up with some cotton swabs and flux remover. Acid flux is both conductive and corrosive, but did you see my solder shine! Makes it look more like chrome! I also am using solder that is 2% silver.
To everyone that has sent thanks messages. You're welcome. I spent over 2 hours putting that guide together. It is my way of giving back to a scene that has shared so much information with me.
Post by: ilscuro on December 06, 2009, 01:38:00 PM
Can anyone recommend a complete soldering outfit that would make this project as easy as possible please.
I've done some soldering in the past but my current soldering iron is a little hefty for this job.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 06, 2009, 02:06:00 PM
QUOTE(ilscuro @ Dec 6 2009, 03:38 PM)
Great guide thank you.
Can anyone recommend a complete soldering outfit that would make this project as easy as possible please.
I've done some soldering in the past but my current soldering iron is a little hefty for this job.
This is what i use. You can get it on ebay for under $100
Post by: Keezie on December 06, 2009, 05:08:00 PM
i'm a little worried about possibly ruining my drive, thus making my xbox completely useless, but i guess i don't really have a choice
do i REALLY need this "lenline" brush?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 06, 2009, 10:02:00 PM
QUOTE(Keezie @ Dec 6 2009, 07:08 PM)
do i REALLY need this "lenline" brush?
The other option is you get a popsicle stick and coat part of the thin edge of it in white glue. Cut a equally thin stripe of 400-600 grit sandpaper and glue it to the side of the popsicle stick and you now have a very fine sanding tool to remove the laminate.
But if you want a proffesional job get the lenline brush!
Post by: DeXteR_CwB on December 07, 2009, 06:58:00 AM
Post by: mksoftware on December 07, 2009, 07:41:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 7 2009, 06:02 AM)
The other option is you get a popsicle stick and coat part of the thin edge of it in white glue. Cut a equally thin stripe of 400-600 grit sandpaper and glue it to the side of the popsicle stick and you now have a very fine sanding tool to remove the laminate.
But if you want a proffesional job get the lenline brush!
Anyone from the Netherlands knows a nice shop where to get the Resistor + Switch? The Techshop where I used to get my stuff seems to be out of town and I have another Xbox here which wants Ixtreme really bad
.
Post by: Maximize on December 07, 2009, 11:09:00 AM
I opened it up as target in JF 0.1.66 and it says I have a 74850c, Is this correct? I know the sticker on the backside of the pcb says 93 V2
I guess I got more reading to do before I test with a 74 or 83 I have lying around
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 07, 2009, 11:26:00 AM
QUOTE(Maximize @ Dec 7 2009, 01:09 PM)
ok I just did this with dosflash method dos got 0x52 with 22ohm, then right on the money with 20ohm
I opened it up as target in JF 0.1.66 and it says I have a 74850c, Is this correct? I know the sticker on the backside of the pcb says 93 V2
I guess I got more reading to do before I test with a 74 or 83 I have lying around
Thank you for bringing this up. I too have got 0x52 a few times. I just keep retrying and it works eventually.
It sounds like 22ohm might not always have enough power to pull down the voltage far enough. So to save everyone two trips or two orders from thier electronics supplier everyone should get both a 22 and a 20 ohm resistor. If enough people tell me that 20ohm works better then i will update the information in my picture tutorial.
Yes, it is correct for JF to report your 93xxx drive as a 74. The firmware is so similar that it doesn't know the difference. I am certain when the next release of JF comes out this will be fixed.
Post by: Maximize on December 07, 2009, 12:08:00 PM
and I figured out the firmware modifcation part of it xbins has the firmware templates
good luck everybody
and thanks for this easier, cleaner method
guys please use a old 73 or 84 to test with!!!
This post has been edited by Maximize: Dec 7 2009, 08:09 PM
Post by: wiebel on December 07, 2009, 12:59:00 PM
However i'm not really certain about all this, if i understand it correctly:
- The grnd just goes to a random place at the pcb?
- the flux/solder actually 'touches' pad 101?
Thanks in advance
(Edit: and where do i get these 'lenline' brushes? What are they called for looking up in a search engine?)
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 07, 2009, 01:28:00 PM
QUOTE(wiebel @ Dec 7 2009, 02:59 PM)
So, I'm kinda new to this soldering stuff. This tut sure looks very promising!
However i'm not really certain about all this, if i understand it correctly:
- The grnd just goes to a random place at the pcb?
- the flux/solder actually 'touches' pad 101?
Thanks in advance
(Edit: and where do i get these 'lenline' brushes? What are they called for looking up in a search engine?)
For the ground point take a look in picture 2. See where i polished the board with my lenline brush. That entire area is ground. MRA's diagram tells you to put it on a tiny pad and that is so much harder and pointless. Most large unused area's of this circuit board are ground.
The solder does not need to touch pad101. I suggest you avoid the pad because it can be damaged easy. This is why i have you make two cuts about a cm away from the pad so that you can solder to the much more sturdy trace.
I have suggested a good vendor to get the lenline brushes from in Post # 11
If they don't have the exact model i used in stock then ask them for a lenline slimline.
Good luck!
Post by: Svantesson666 on December 07, 2009, 02:40:00 PM
I did my first LiteOn today. But I didn't need to click the intro button twice. I got the full chip info and status 0x72 the very first time. And it read out the firmware just fine.
I did need to power cycle the drive a couple of times though to actually get 0x72, as it kept ending up in 0x52 all the time. But once I got 0x72 I got the chip info as well.
And for the record I have read the firmware of a LiteOn 74850c, with iXtreme 1.6 on it, in JungleFlasher using Windows 7 and a VIA 6421A SATA card.
Am I the only one that doesn't need to click it twice?
This post has been edited by Svantesson666: Dec 7 2009, 11:15 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 07, 2009, 03:01:00 PM
QUOTE(Svantesson666 @ Dec 7 2009, 04:40 PM)
First thanks for this method.
I did my first LiteOn today. But I don't need to click the intro button twice. I get the full chip info and status 0x72 the very first time. And it reads out the firmware just fine.
I do need to power cycle the drive a couple of times though to actually get 0x72, as it keeps ending up in 0x52 all the time. But once I get 0x72 I get the chip info as well.
And for the record I have read the firmware of a LiteOn 74850c, with iXtreme 1.6 on it, in JungleFlasher using Windows 7 and a VIA 6421A SATA card.
Am I the only one that doesn't need to click it twice?
You only need to do the intro twice trick if you happen to have a winbond type flash in your lite-on. There is no way to tell if you have a winbond other then if you get status 72 and get unknown flash.
As for you getting status 52 a few times it has happened to me too. What i would like everyone to do is try a 20ohm 1/4 watt resisitor and see if they get 72 everytime.
Post by: Svantesson666 on December 07, 2009, 03:18:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 7 2009, 11:01 PM)
You only need to do the intro twice trick if you happen to have a winbond type flash in your lite-on. There is no way to tell if you have a winbond other then if you get status 72 and get unknown flash.
As for you getting status 52 a few times it has happened to me too. What i would like everyone to do is try a 20ohm 1/4 watt resisitor and see if they get 72 everytime.
I got 0x72 everytime after I put a little pressure on the "Pad 101 via" (as I soldered there) using my index finger. Of course doing that would make no sense if you soldered elsewhere.
Post by: rusky5978 on December 08, 2009, 01:45:00 AM
http://www.elotrolado.net/hilo_tutorial-du...140#p1718301152
thats my post in spanish and the schematics are exactly the same, impresive, at least I didnt present it as MY
method since somebody else did the research(I would love to say thanks in my post to the ORIGINAL author)
Post by: arielzadi on December 08, 2009, 07:58:00 AM
This time i want to be prepaird so my main q is what homemade tool can i use to expose the soldering points without damaging them like the lenline brush and how to efficently cut the traces without damaging them
Sorry about the bad english
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 08, 2009, 11:03:00 AM
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
i just tried it on my 74850 (pre flashed) though i had cut the tracks the way that was shown by mrn,i will try your method next time (perhaps)
i found an old switch off an arcade cab and used that at first and got no joy in dosflash or jungleflasher.
i removed it and just hooked the wires for a switch and used jungleflasher,sure enough status 72 and unknow flash type,unhooked them and intro'd again and it showed the spi details.
i used some conductive ink when i was ready to put everything back together (joining traces/vias)but,was getting flashing light or no eject,i cleaned it all away and tried bridging with solder and it worked fine.
just waiting now for a customer to bring me a 83850v2 or 93450 drive when they bring one,cant tell from day to day what they are,only ever seen 1 83850v2 and 1 935450.
all the same,thanks,i will try this out i think at some point.
to to round off,yes it will work on 74850 like its been stated in many places.i found jungleflasher was the app to use.
@arielzadi:
use a fibre glass pen and i find a very fine hobby knife handy also (for cutting tracks) flux and a low wattage soldering iron (i used a 12w)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This post has been edited by saleem_hacks_360s: Dec 8 2009, 07:09 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 08, 2009, 01:28:00 PM
QUOTE(rusky5978 @ Dec 8 2009, 03:45 AM)
It is astonishing how we got to EXACTLY the same schematics for the dump.
http://www.elotrolad...140#p1718301152
thats my post in spanish and the schematics are exactly the same, impresive, at least I didnt present it as MY
method since somebody else did the research(I would love to say thanks in my post to the ORIGINAL author)
If you think i seen your post and then copied you, you are seriously outta your mind. First time i did this hack pad101 broke. Then a friend of mine did the hack and also broke pad101. The solution was very obvious. Cut further away from the pad and jump over it with a wire. I don't speak a word of spanish and have never been to or even heard of elotrolado. Every picture and diagram was done by me. The only person deserving credit was credited in the first line of my first post. This was MRA's idea. Adding one little jump does not take away from the fact the MRA was first for this hack. All credit goes to MRA and none goes to you!
Post by: iateshaggy on December 08, 2009, 02:04:00 PM
Post by: Maximize on December 08, 2009, 02:09:00 PM
Post by: iateshaggy on December 08, 2009, 02:36:00 PM
Post by: rusky5978 on December 08, 2009, 05:27:00 PM
Post by: kaneda_77 on December 08, 2009, 06:10:00 PM
Post by: qbarulz on December 09, 2009, 06:28:00 AM
I tried everything.
Ive checked the circle and i got 3.3. and 1.8 v
everything seems to be soldered correctly.
when i power liteon ON in switch pos 1 (on) it gives me 0x52 - i tried in dos and in windows in jungle flasher
when i power liteon OFF in switch pos 2 (off) it is detectable in JF and in DOSFLASH but when i click "resend command" and change switch position it goes 0xD1
I TRIED connectivity kit executer and ck 3 lite - resault is the same
i test it on 5 !!!! different liteons 74.... maybe it only works for 8*** and 9****>?
plz help coz i lost 10 hours already !!!
Post by: bbsal on December 09, 2009, 12:39:00 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 09, 2009, 12:50:00 PM
5 ct
22 ohm
1/2 watt
5% Tolerance
To answer your question, in series.
This post has been edited by Takashi: Dec 9 2009, 08:59 PM
Post by: Svantesson666 on December 09, 2009, 01:47:00 PM
QUOTE(qbarulz @ Dec 9 2009, 02:28 PM)
I need Help!
I tried everything.
Ive checked the circle and i got 3.3. and 1.8 v
everything seems to be soldered correctly.
when i power liteon ON in switch pos 1 (on) it gives me 0x52 - i tried in dos and in windows in jungle flasher
when i power liteon OFF in switch pos 2 (off) it is detectable in JF and in DOSFLASH but when i click "resend command" and change switch position it goes 0xD1
I TRIED connectivity kit executer and ck 3 lite - resault is the same
i test it on 5 !!!! different liteons 74.... maybe it only works for 8*** and 9****>?
plz help coz i lost 10 hours already !!!
I got status 0x52 all the time until I gently pressed on the soldering at pad 101 using my index finger, then I got status 0x72 right away. I used a 22 ohm resistor and a LiteOn 74850c, so it can be done on the 74 as well. No wonder really as they all got the same hardware.
Post by: crowdogx on December 09, 2009, 04:48:00 PM
first thankyou very much for the guide (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
iv got a few questions please
do you take the drive board completly out of the drive ?and unsolder all the wires e.c.t from the drive
does it matter which way round the resistor goes i.e gold band to the board or switch?
can jungleflasher be used instead of dosflash
also once you have your dump do you solder all the cut traces back up before you flash?
thanks
This post has been edited by crowdogx: Dec 10 2009, 01:06 AM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 09, 2009, 05:18:00 PM
as far as i know,it wont matter what way round it gos.
as for dosflash32 or jungleflasher,just try either and see which one works for you ie:which picks up the drive and allows you to read it.
the cut traces need reconnecting,how you do it is up to you,solder bridge,wire or conductive paint,its up to you.
Post by: LiquidXed on December 09, 2009, 05:22:00 PM
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 06:02:00 PM
Post by: crowdogx on December 09, 2009, 06:39:00 PM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Dec 10 2009, 01:18 AM)
no need to remove the board completely,just discoonect the 3 ribbons and then turn it over to expose the underneath,best is lay it beside the drive chassis.
as far as i know,it wont matter what way round it gos.
as for dosflash32 or jungleflasher,just try either and see which one works for you ie:which picks up the drive and allows you to read it.
the cut traces need reconnecting,how you do it is up to you,solder bridge,wire or conductive paint,its up to you.
thanks for answering all my questions mate
Post by: dmanjohn on December 09, 2009, 08:50:00 PM
Post by: Svantesson666 on December 10, 2009, 12:39:00 AM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Dec 10 2009, 01:18 AM)
no need to remove the board completely,just discoonect the 3 ribbons and then turn it over to expose the underneath,best is lay it beside the drive chassis.
as far as i know,it wont matter what way round it gos.
as for dosflash32 or jungleflasher,just try either and see which one works for you ie:which picks up the drive and allows you to read it.
the cut traces need reconnecting,how you do it is up to you,solder bridge,wire or conductive paint,its up to you.
I didn't disconnect any of the ribbons. Once the screws are gone you can flip the board without removing them.
Post by: ZerOneX on December 10, 2009, 03:56:00 AM
Post by: LiquidXed on December 10, 2009, 06:49:00 PM
Post by: gregeet on December 10, 2009, 07:00:00 PM
Post by: LiquidXed on December 10, 2009, 07:24:00 PM
QUOTE(LiquidXed @ Dec 10 2009, 01:22 AM)
will a lenline 70-171 work?
will it work the same as the 70-450 lenline?
Post by: LiquidXed on December 10, 2009, 08:34:00 PM
Post by: iateshaggy on December 10, 2009, 09:37:00 PM
Post by: NEO_X on December 11, 2009, 02:32:00 AM
Post by: DuggyUK on December 11, 2009, 11:40:00 AM
Post by: TingedAce on December 11, 2009, 06:23:00 PM
-->I have and I'm not sure what's going on.
-->This is an unmodified stock Liteon 74850C, April 2008
Firstly the mod was done correctly, and tested with a multimeter. No shorts and everything connected where it should be.
According to the instructions you're meant to power up the drive with the switch in the ON position and get 0x72 status.
I power up in the ON position and there's no drive detected by JF, consequently I get 0x80 repeatedly.
If I power up the drive in the OFF position JF sees the drive but it won't Intro - you get 0xD1. Is that normal?
The switch is wired correctly, I've not got it the wrong way round.
I found out I have to click Intro while the drive is powered down, then click yes and when the dots start, turn the drive on with the switch in the ON position and I immediately get 0x72.
Now I put the switch to OFF, click read and get the firmware and save it to disk.
This all seems OK but now if you load this newly acquired firmware back into JF as target, it displays the wrong key. I know it's the wrong key because I've previously extracted the key with a probe and flashed it to another drive which is now working perfectly with that xbox.
See JF transcript below....
I've also done the whole process in dosflash, and got exact same (wrong) key.
Also, why does it think that it's encrypted iXtreme?
Any comments much appreciated.
Thanks
-------------
Found 1 Com Ports.
Found 6 windows drives A: C: D: E: F: J:
Found 2 CD/DVD drives E: F:
Sending Vendor Intro to port 0xD000
Status 0xD0
Re-sending Vendor Intro:
........
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Sending Device ID request to port 0xD000
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
Getting Status from port 0xD000
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Lite-On Dump file saved to C:\Users\Default\Documents\Xbox Keys\Experiment\Lite-OFW3.bin
Loading MTK_Flash source file
Loading target file C:\Users\Default\Documents\Xbox Keys\Experiment\Lite-OFW3.bin
Target File MD5 hash is: 8c8ff5bbba218ae9d295f52ffe4846a4
Inquiry area found
Current DVD key is 9C3792D4387FCB649EE997BE39E1C7C1
Firmware is a Lite-On encrypted iXtreme OSIG: PLDS DG-16D2S 7485
Firmware type is:
Post by: LiquidXed on December 11, 2009, 07:58:00 PM
Is both point that is wired to the switch supposed to be a closed circuit before connecting to the switch?
When i test the 2 points on the board with my multimeter its showin up as closed circuit, without it wired to the switch, is that right?
ive got all the traces cut and everything and tested with my meter evrything is right on that end, just wandering why im getting a closed circuit with the ground point and the pad101 before i even wire up the switch. is that normal? sorry if i kept repeating im alittle high
Post by: Maximize on December 11, 2009, 08:40:00 PM
QUOTE(TingedAce @ Dec 11 2009, 08:23 PM)
Has anyone tried this on a 74850C ? (this is what I'm using to practise on incidentally)
-->I have and I'm not sure what's going on.
-->This is an unmodified stock Liteon 74850C, April 2008
Firstly the mod was done correctly, and tested with a multimeter. No shorts and everything connected where it should be.
According to the instructions you're meant to power up the drive with the switch in the ON position and get 0x72 status.
I power up in the ON position and there's no drive detected by JF, consequently I get 0x80 repeatedly.
If I power up the drive in the OFF position JF sees the drive but it won't Intro - you get 0xD1. Is that normal?
The switch is wired correctly, I've not got it the wrong way round.
I found out I have to click Intro while the drive is powered down, then click yes and when the dots start, turn the drive on with the switch in the ON position and I immediately get 0x72.
Now I put the switch to OFF, click read and get the firmware and save it to disk.
This all seems OK but now if you load this newly acquired firmware back into JF as target, it displays the wrong key. I know it's the wrong key because I've previously extracted the key with a probe and flashed it to another drive which is now working perfectly with that xbox.
See JF transcript below....
I've also done the whole process in dosflash, and got exact same (wrong) key.
Also, why does it think that it's encrypted iXtreme?
Any comments much appreciated.
Thanks
-------------
Found 1 Com Ports.
Found 6 windows drives A: C: D: E: F: J:
Found 2 CD/DVD drives E: F:
Sending Vendor Intro to port 0xD000
Status 0xD0
Re-sending Vendor Intro:
........
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Sending Device ID request to port 0xD000
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
Getting Status from port 0xD000
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Lite-On Dump file saved to C:\Users\Default\Documents\Xbox Keys\Experiment\Lite-OFW3.bin
Loading MTK_Flash source file
Loading target file C:\Users\Default\Documents\Xbox Keys\Experiment\Lite-OFW3.bin
Target File MD5 hash is: 8c8ff5bbba218ae9d295f52ffe4846a4
Inquiry area found
Current DVD key is
Firmware is a Lite-On encrypted iXtreme OSIG: PLDS DG-16D2S 7485
Firmware type is:
IT MIGHT BE TOO LATE BUT PLEASE CUT OUT YOUR DVD DRIVE KEY
MODS PLEASE DELETE HIS POST
not that MS can do anything with individual drive keys but if they can you might already be effed
Post by: LiquidXed on December 11, 2009, 09:48:00 PM
nevermind i forgot to delete the via driver, lol
Post by: LiquidXed on December 11, 2009, 10:57:00 PM
got the f/w but no key.
Post by: TingedAce on December 12, 2009, 01:35:00 AM
QUOTE(Maximize @ Dec 12 2009, 03:40 AM) 
IT MIGHT BE TOO LATE BUT PLEASE CUT OUT YOUR DVD DRIVE KEY
MODS PLEASE DELETE HIS POST
not that MS can do anything with individual drive keys but if they can you might already be effed
As I said, it's the wrong key. I also edited a couple of the digits, just in case it was an encrypted version of the correct key. So don't fret
Post by: NEO_X on December 12, 2009, 02:45:00 AM
Post by: Mjollnir on December 12, 2009, 06:29:00 AM
QUOTE(LiquidXed @ Dec 12 2009, 04:57 PM)
I still cant get the key....????
got the f/w but no key.
Open the dumped firmware as target in JF, then u can dump the key, inquiry etc as dummy.bin (right click on the target firmware should bring up the option)
Post by: crowdogx on December 12, 2009, 07:30:00 AM
im preping my drive cuircuit board ready for the dump, ive done all the cuts but not soldered any wire or switch yet)ive done all the 3 cuts
i cut the track (the one that is on its own, the 1 cut one) its definatly cut all the way through and its still connected when i use the continuity test,should it still be conected?
if not can anyone help
also can anyone test all there tracks with and without the wires and switch and tell me what is connected and what is'nt please
thanks
Post by: LiquidXed on December 12, 2009, 06:19:00 PM
QUOTE(Mjollnir @ Dec 12 2009, 02:29 PM)
Open the dumped firmware as target in JF, then u can dump the key, inquiry etc as dummy.bin (right click on the target firmware should bring up the option)
Cant it said the F/W is not valid.. i cant remember if i had the R707 bridged when i dumped or not, aint sure if i had the usb hooked up either, im usen maximus xtractor pro.
Do i need the R707 bridged and the usb hooked up, when doing the Boxxdr Method?
Like i said it dumped the F/W but it didnt dump the key, and when i try to open as source and target, it says its not valid.
Ill never buy another liteon, not even for my comp. lol
Post by: crowdogx on December 12, 2009, 06:44:00 PM
QUOTE(LiquidXed @ Dec 13 2009, 02:19 AM)
Cant it said the F/W is not valid.. i cant remember if i had the R707 bridged when i dumped or not, aint sure if i had the usb hooked up either, im usen maximus xtractor pro.
Do i need the R707 bridged and the usb hooked up, when doing the Boxxdr Method?
Like i said it dumped the F/W but it didnt dump the key, and when i try to open as source and target, it says its not valid.
Ill never buy another liteon, not even for my comp. lol
no usb and no bridged 707 mate
Post by: NEO_X on December 13, 2009, 09:56:00 AM
Post by: OggyUK on December 13, 2009, 11:59:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 5 2009, 07:14 AM)
Instructions (also by MRA i changed a few words)
blah blah blah
-If you have a Winbond SPI Flash inside (i know, you can´t be sure about this from the outside) you will probably get status 0x72 but instead of recognizing the Winbond flash it will be recognized as unknown flash chip (manufacturer and device ID 0xFF). If that is the case you can´t use Dosflash anymore, you have to use JF!
blah blah blah
Easier to use JF from the offset?
Nice tut btw Greg? -
If they awarded points for good looking mods, you'd win
I'm more of a hack and slash guy
Post by: totoz on December 13, 2009, 02:43:00 PM
) check this video about SOLDERING TECHNIQUE (i think they should be on the first page)
BASICS
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
(part 1 not so necessary)
ADVANCED
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related (superb!)
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
they helped me a lot, hope i'll be able to mod these new liteon in a month!
Post by: Unforgivensinner on December 13, 2009, 10:59:00 PM
Post by: Unforgivensinner on December 14, 2009, 02:22:00 AM
QUOTE(Unforgivensinner @ Dec 13 2009, 10:59 PM)
Ok so I went for it I have soldering experience from doing other electronics. I wired everything up correctly and made the right cuts. I plugged it into the computer and nothing was detected. I tried dosflash16 and 32 and JF. Nothing would show the drive. I tried toggling the switch and that didn't help. If anyone else has this problem let me know. Im going to just put the drive back to normal and use it legit. I'll buy a benq off ebay after xmas to mod. Thanks for the tut it just didn't work for me.
Ok well I bridged the connections plugged it back in and the xbox wouldn't turn on. It would turn on but never showed anything on the screen, also the power button was flashing. I checked my connections to make sure I wasn't touching anything I wasn't supposed to and it wasn't. So I got rid of the wire to connect it and just filled with solder. That got me to the dashboard but the power button is still flashing and the dashboard says the drive is opening. So I checked my connections again, now the xbox will turn on with out the drive connected with the power button flashing. But if the drive is connected i get the flashing green light and now 3 flashing red lights. This xbox is only 2 weeks old so I knew that it wasn't the same as the RROD. And its not. the RROD flashes lights 1, 3, and 4. Mine flashes 1, 2, and 3. Also I dont get any video when the drive is plugged in.
Turns out its E09. Here are some fixes if anyone else gets the same problem. I don't know if any of them will help but I think the last one will in our case.
Edit: Also mine is a 93450c-2. Maybe that has something to do with it not working, but I doubt it. I'm giving up for tonight maybe I can get it to work tomorrow, if not oh well.
Post by: mksoftware on December 14, 2009, 07:29:00 AM
Firstly I screwed the DVD mobo back on it's place and inserted all drive cables. Of course I first Did the traces using a knife and soldered everything like it should.
1. Dumped The firmware with status 0x72 Dosflash32 using the switch, position 1 when loading up dosflash and position 2 when you start dumping.
2. Loaded the firmware in target with Jungleflasher
3. Right click and save a dummy
4. Loaded up the Maximus firmware in target and dummy as source.
5. Click spoof to duplicate key in hacked firmware.
6. Flashed the firmware in position 1 using the lite on erase button, switching on/ off quickly. It recognized the drive without a problem.
7. Removed wires from mobo and fixed like instructed by boxx
8. Works like a charm!
Post by: Suicyde on December 14, 2009, 09:51:00 AM
Ideally UK based to go grab straight away! Maplins I think will be an option, but not sure on the soldering iron kits they do, real novice.
Thanks in advance -
Cyde
Post by: mksoftware on December 14, 2009, 11:01:00 AM
QUOTE(Suicyde @ Dec 14 2009, 05:51 PM)
Sorry to be a complete knob - can anyone recommend the best type of soldering iron to do this sort of work - and also a place to get all the other components needed?
Ideally UK based to go grab straight away! Maplins I think will be an option, but not sure on the soldering iron kits they do, real novice.
Thanks in advance -
Cyde
I got an Antex 15 watt soldering iron with a 0,05 milimeter tip, the tools can be bought at any electro shop. Just ask them!
Post by: WoofyBear on December 14, 2009, 11:37:00 AM
Any ideas as to what I might not have or have done incorrectly? This is driving me crazy
BTW I have tried with a 22 and now a 20 ohm resistor...
Post by: TingedAce on December 14, 2009, 01:53:00 PM
QUOTE(WoofyBear @ Dec 14 2009, 06:37 PM)
Got everything setup properly (or so I think) with the 3 cuts, wires soldered, switch set...when I start JF and click on Intro I get the drive recognized but with a status 0x51...then no matter what I do, power cycle etc I just get 0x52...
Any ideas as to what I might not have or have done incorrectly? This is driving me crazy
BTW I have tried with a 22 and now a 20 ohm resistor...
I was getting 0x51 all the time too. Try clicking Intro first, then power on the drive while the dots are being drawn. I get 0x72 every time that way.
Post by: Unforgivensinner on December 14, 2009, 06:43:00 PM
Post by: danthaman673 on December 15, 2009, 02:56:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 9 2009, 05:58 AM)
If you think i seen your post and then copied you, you are seriously outta your mind. First time i did this hack pad101 broke. Then a friend of mine did the hack and also broke pad101. The solution was very obvious. Cut further away from the pad and jump over it with a wire. I don't speak a word of spanish and have never been to or even heard of elotrolado. Every picture and diagram was done by me. The only person deserving credit was credited in the first line of my first post. This was MRA's idea. Adding one little jump does not take away from the fact the MRA was first for this hack. All credit goes to MRA and none goes to you!
Actually Geremia posted concept, others posted chip data, I suggested using switch,MRA wrote Pin-Lift method, I snapped pin on some1elses drive(despite being smt-rework xpert) others suggested track-cut and some locales(having had similar probs),MRA perfected method and posted track-cutting method: No need to cut in two places and then leave wire behind after, Simply: Cut V-shape over top of via(thru-hole) with scalpel. Bridge w/ non-smc paste after dump. Easy!
PS: Not to be-little sytax's involvement I recall him being early suggester of track-cutting.
This was all developed in a short space of time on the other forum after Modfreakz method was a no-show
Post by: prelude on December 15, 2009, 03:46:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 10 2009, 02:02 AM)
if you're looking for an easy way, bridge 100 and 101 on startup, can be unbridged the second the drive is on, then read. simple as that. no cutting no lifting no soldering. *note* will not work in about 1 in 10 drives, those drives are the picky ones that require the resistor to be lower than 22ohms.
has anyone tried this method? where is 100?
no cutting/lifting/soldering... hmm
Post by: prelude on December 15, 2009, 05:04:00 PM
QUOTE(prelude @ Dec 15 2009, 11:46 PM)
has anyone tried this method? where is 100?
no cutting/lifting/soldering... hmm
nm found 100 and 101 on the pinout pic but the chip is covered in epoxy...
is pin100 available on the otherside of the pcb?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 15, 2009, 07:15:00 PM
QUOTE(prelude @ Dec 15 2009, 05:46 PM)
has anyone tried this method? where is 100?
no cutting/lifting/soldering... hmm
MRA has already confimred this does not work!
Post by: WoofyBear on December 16, 2009, 09:05:00 AM
QUOTE(danthaman673 @ Dec 15 2009, 04:56 AM)
Actually Geremia posted concept, others posted chip data, I suggested using switch,MRA wrote Pin-Lift method, I snapped pin on some1elses drive(despite being smt-rework xpert) others suggested track-cut and some locales(having had similar probs),MRA perfected method and posted track-cutting method: No need to cut in two places and then leave wire behind after, Simply: Cut V-shape over top of via(thru-hole) with scalpel. Bridge w/ non-smc paste after dump. Easy!
PS: Not to be-little sytax's involvement I recall him being early suggester of track-cutting.
This was all developed in a short space of time on the other forum after Modfreakz method was a no-show (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Can you post a link to this "V" method? I would like to take a look at that and try it on the next drive I do.
Thanks in advance
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 16, 2009, 09:21:00 AM
QUOTE(WoofyBear @ Dec 16 2009, 11:05 AM)
Can you post a link to this "V" method? I would like to take a look at that and try it on the next drive I do.
Thanks in advance
All you do for the V method is instead of cutting the PAD101 off with a strait line you cut a bit of a v shape into the trace above it but not so far that you cut through the trace. Then you don't have to do the jump.
I still think people will be breaking the pad off if they try this. All to save 2 minutes.
Post by: crowdogx on December 16, 2009, 09:44:00 AM
best guide out so far
This post has been edited by crowdogx: Dec 16 2009, 05:46 PM
Post by: Suicyde on December 16, 2009, 01:22:00 PM
Any tips on a particular tool to use?
Thanks in advance -
Cyde
Post by: WoofyBear on December 16, 2009, 02:07:00 PM
QUOTE(Suicyde @ Dec 16 2009, 03:22 PM)
Having real difficulty getting a "clean" cut on the traces - and a dremel tool isn't an option at the minute. I've been using a small flat head screwdriver, and had very limited success, and not a very good result!
Any tips on a particular tool to use?
Thanks in advance -
Cyde
I asked a co-worker of mine to show me exactly how to cut traces and to be honest he just used an exacto knife. I was also amazed to find out that the trace does not run all that deep. WHen I was looking at the photos, especially of the dremel tool results, I figured that I had to go deeper. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but just pressing firmly with an exacto knife and running over the trace a couple of times should do it.
Post by: bilabonic on December 16, 2009, 02:11:00 PM
Any ideas peeps ??
|Ta
Post by: arielzadi on December 16, 2009, 02:59:00 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 16, 2009, 03:07:00 PM
Post by: nightfly85 on December 16, 2009, 03:37:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 9 2009, 06:02 PM)
if you're looking for an easy way, bridge 100 and 101 on startup, can be unbridged the second the drive is on, then read. simple as that. no cutting no lifting no soldering. *note* will not work in about 1 in 10 drives, those drives are the picky ones that require the resistor to be lower than 22ohms.
Wow, that does seem easy and I'll give that a shot on my v2
Post by: dragon45801 on December 16, 2009, 04:38:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 16, 2009, 05:42:00 PM
QUOTE(dragon45801 @ Dec 16 2009, 06:38 PM)
does it have to be a 22 or 20 ohm? can it be less?
18 to 22 ohm has given people good results. 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt is ideal.
I have been using 22 ohm 1/4 w myself
Post by: D2C MASTER on December 16, 2009, 08:39:00 PM
Post by: dragon45801 on December 16, 2009, 09:24:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 16, 2009, 09:41:00 PM
QUOTE(dragon45801 @ Dec 16 2009, 11:24 PM)
thanks guys. also, im assuming the board needs to be wired in?(tray wires, power, ground)
No i suggest you remove the board.
It does not need the Y Y W W R B wires connected for any part of this hack or even during the reprogramming of the custom firmware.
Post by: dragon45801 on December 16, 2009, 10:28:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 16 2009, 11:41 PM)
No i suggest you remove the board.
It does not need the Y Y W W R B wires connected for any part of this hack or even during the reprogramming of the custom firmware.
good to know and very nice tutorial. I just ruined this drive/box so im not sure i'll be trying again lol. the trace in between the two cuts lifted off the board including the eyelet trace. i made it a bit too short by putting the cuts too close together. my soldering skills are impeccable but i would not recommend this for everyone
Post by: WoofyBear on December 16, 2009, 10:33:00 PM
QUOTE(dragon45801 @ Dec 17 2009, 12:28 AM)
good to know and very nice tutorial. I just ruined this drive/box so im not sure i'll be trying again lol. the trace in between the two cuts lifted off the board including the eyelet trace. i made it a bit too short by putting the cuts too close together. my soldering skills are impeccable but i would not recommend this for everyone
Agreed great tutorial..just finished my second one and it was flawless...for me I left the board connected to everything and just flipped it over...
The difference I found between the 1st one I did and the one I just finished is make sure you have the right tools...it makes your life SO much easier..i.e. multimeter to make sure that your traces have been cut properly, proper magnification to examine what you are doing..the first time around I thought I wouldn't need all of the little extras but let me tell you it was worth it.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 16, 2009, 10:38:00 PM
QUOTE(dragon45801 @ Dec 17 2009, 12:28 AM)
the trace in between the two cuts lifted off the board including the eyelet trace. i made it a bit too short by putting the cuts too close together.
The only way that would happen is your are soldering too hot for too long.
If you have not done any other damage i am able to repair the board. PM me if you want me to look it at it for you.
Post by: j3ll3 on December 17, 2009, 11:43:00 AM
Post by: LiquidXed on December 17, 2009, 02:06:00 PM
would show pics of my soldering job, but have nowhere to link them.Thanks to all involved, sux i payed $52 for maximus junk, and also $18 for the spear.. o well ya live and learn.
Post by: Takashi on December 17, 2009, 02:24:00 PM
There's no point in talking shit on hardware that you don't understand how to use.
This post has been edited by Takashi: Dec 17 2009, 10:27 PM
Post by: LiquidXed on December 17, 2009, 02:41:00 PM
QUOTE(WoofyBear @ Dec 17 2009, 06:33 AM)
Agreed great tutorial..just finished my second one and it was flawless...for me I left the board connected to everything and just flipped it over...
The difference I found between the 1st one I did and the one I just finished is make sure you have the right tools...it makes your life SO much easier..i.e. multimeter to make sure that your traces have been cut properly, proper magnification to examine what you are doing..the first time around I thought I wouldn't need all of the little extras but let me tell you it was worth it.
dont for get some desolder braid will help to, incase the solder gets down in the cut.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 17 2009, 10:24 PM)
You probably had a 9 series, bridging R707 does nothing.
There's no point in talking shit on hardware that you don't understand how to use.
YEH DONT TALK SHIT. i have a 74850c, so dont asume you know what ur talkin about. instead of maken rude comments, y dont u try n help people that need help, ur no good 4 the scene.
ive benn moddin since the ps1, so i think i know alittle somethin. If u know so much, y dont u tell me step by step how to deo u it?
This post has been edited by LiquidXed: Dec 17 2009, 10:59 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 17, 2009, 03:12:00 PM
360Xtractor is a wonderful piece of hardware, many people agree.
Post by: LiquidXed on December 17, 2009, 03:24:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 17 2009, 05:12 PM)
You linked us to a 9 series youtube video, just assumed, because you weren't clear is all.
360Xtractor is a wonderful piece of hardware, many people agree.
whatever the link is for, it worked with my 74850c, might be good hardware, im sayin the one i got is fu**ed up. so i got a RMA on it. it would be sweet if mine worked.
Post by: LiquidXed on December 17, 2009, 04:12:00 PM
sorry for the crapy quality, used my samsung eternity phone.
1
2
BTW i used a peice of a fingernail file to scrap, also i put the solder on the wire not the board, FYI use as little solder ass possible. i had a prob with the solder gettin down int the cuts, then groundin to the board. that was a pic of my first atempt, it work but i didnt know about haven to open the bin in target. did the samethin the second time just used smaller wire "30AWG", i think the first time was with 24 or 26 awg, not sure, but the smaller the better....
I know i shouldnt post this here, but here is the Alt R707 point i tried to use with the xtractor, with no luck
3
4
Post by: dragon45801 on December 17, 2009, 08:18:00 PM
This post has been edited by dragon45801: Dec 18 2009, 04:22 AM
Post by: j3ll3 on December 18, 2009, 09:06:00 AM
but this 93450 wouldn't let me hotplug the drive while in XP.. (using VIA6421, with drivers installed) it made my system freeze... so i powered the drive on xp bootscreen... after that it worked fine
quite weird seeing as i always hotplug my drives in XP and it never freezes up
i however have via 5.80c drivers and with these drivers an erased liteon flash does not make my system freeze
Post by: LiquidXed on December 18, 2009, 10:57:00 AM
QUOTE(dragon45801 @ Dec 17 2009, 10:18 PM)
i have 2 maximus extractors and i love them. it makes doing a 7xxx liteon much easier and its nice to be able to power the drive with my pc and not lug the whole damn system up to my computer desk
did u use the usb or the R24 to get ur key? not usen the Boxxdr Method, just the xtractor, was u able to get ur key??
This post has been edited by LiquidXed: Dec 18 2009, 06:59 PM
Post by: hetster on December 18, 2009, 01:20:00 PM
is there an alternate power source to repair the drive or at least get the key..ive got the key from several drives but this one lifted the pad before i got the key..
(IMG:http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/hetster/LOHACK-LOW-3.jpg)
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 18 2009, 09:21 PM
Post by: LiquidXed on December 18, 2009, 02:19:00 PM
QUOTE(hetster @ Dec 18 2009, 03:20 PM)
ok somehow i managed to lift a pad and a piece of trace (not 101).
is there an alternate power source to repair the drive or at least get the key..ive got the key from several drives but this one lifted the pad before i got the key..
(IMG:http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/hetster/LOHACK-LOW-3.jpg)
u got a pic of how bad it is??
This post has been edited by LiquidXed: Dec 18 2009, 10:25 PM
Post by: hetster on December 18, 2009, 02:38:00 PM
(IMG:http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/hetster/DSCN0280.jpg)
hmm it looks like those 2 pads are connected at the top of the board and not to any of the legs of the chip..can anyone point me into which 2 they are on top of the board then i can run a wire around to at least dumpthe key..
further inspection shows me those 2 are connected on top through a fuse to the power molex..can i connect it direct to the power cable or is that fuse a resistor..
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 18 2009, 11:22 PM
Post by: LiquidXed on December 18, 2009, 03:36:00 PM
Post by: hetster on December 18, 2009, 07:36:00 PM
nothing seems to go right lately lol. oh well off to buy a new elite for someone :-( bang goes my xmas
i think even boxxdr would say WTF i cant do anything with that..
is there any guides for soldering onto tracks onto pcb's speificaly..
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 19 2009, 03:38 AM
Post by: LiquidXed on December 18, 2009, 07:55:00 PM
Post by: WoofyBear on December 18, 2009, 08:14:00 PM
QUOTE(LiquidXed @ Dec 18 2009, 09:55 PM)
LOL, ill take my drive apart 2 marrow to get some jumpers 4 u. in the mean time take some pics of whats all messed up now and leave it alone,lol. also, im would use a lighter solder gun, somethin like 15w. u can get one a radio shack 4 like $8, im usen a 20w..
Yeah got all my stuff at The Source/Radio Shack...15/30w iron for $15 I think it was...I have been using the 15w setting and it's great
Post by: hetster on December 18, 2009, 08:35:00 PM
(IMG:http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/hetster/DSCN0285.jpg)
Post by: hellshavoc on December 19, 2009, 12:17:00 AM
Getting Status from port 0x8000
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Lite-On Dump file saved to D:\UsersDesktop\Lite-OFW.bin
Loading MTK_Flash source file
Post by: hetster on December 19, 2009, 03:01:00 AM
if it says no valid F/W found it means you didnt send the intro again after 0x72 state in position open
Post by: j3ll3 on December 19, 2009, 03:30:00 AM
so why have you lifted a second trace?
man i barely got 2 hrs soldering experience.. done 3 x jtag... 1 cygnos v2.. and 2 93450c... never messed one of them up, even tho i had been eating myself due to all the nerves.. just use a 15W
Post by: hetster on December 19, 2009, 05:29:00 AM
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 19 2009, 01:29 PM
Post by: looph0le on December 19, 2009, 06:28:00 AM
I firstly broke off pad 101 so had to go with a wire to the pin 101. unfortunately and god knows how i seem to have broken off that pin too! it was a long day and i was tired, lol i knew i should have left it until the morning.
I can see a very minute part of it if i use a magnifying glass.
So my question is am I screwed ? or is there possibly some way that i can still read off the key and trash the drive and replace it with another?
Post by: WoofyBear on December 19, 2009, 08:21:00 AM
QUOTE(hellshavoc @ Dec 19 2009, 02:17 AM)
Ok so I just tried this method out. I believe I got all the wiring and soldering done right and i got JF to to read the drive with the 72 status but when I click read it reads the banks but when I save the firmware it says no DVD Key detected firmware possibly corrupt. Any Suggestions?
Getting Status from port 0x8000
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Lite-On Dump file saved to D:\UsersDesktop\Lite-OFW.bin
Loading MTK_Flash source file
I did the same thing...I was so excited that I was getting my first read of the firmware...but what I forgot to do and I am sure you did the same thing, was that after you get your drive Intro to be recognized, you then flip the switch BEFORE you read the firmware...otherwise you get what you and I both had the first time around...a dump of something but not what we were looking for...
Flip the switch, then read, save and open up in target and there will be your key!
Cheers
Post by: Plorpy on December 19, 2009, 11:29:00 AM
Post by: WoofyBear on December 19, 2009, 12:10:00 PM
QUOTE(Plorpy @ Dec 19 2009, 01:29 PM)
I've got my 93 drive showing up as 0x72 under jungle flasher, but once i flip the switch to off and click read it gives me an Invalid Status 0x80. all of my wiring checks out, no shorts, and the switch is on the right way, and I'm using my 360 to power my drive. any ideas?
Hmmm...make sure you are not power cycling your drive between getting the 72 status and flipping the switch. Also do you get status 72 with an unknown drive? If that's the case you have to do the two Vendor Intros as described at the beginning of this topic..
Other than that I don't know..nothing is bridged anywhere?
Post by: Plorpy on December 19, 2009, 08:42:00 PM
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
flick the switch off but leave drive powered and do vendor intro again and get the 0x80 again. I double checked my wiring and while its not pretty, theres no shorts or mess ups.
Post by: hetster on December 20, 2009, 03:45:00 AM
This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 20 2009, 11:46 AM
Post by: my77stang on December 20, 2009, 06:56:00 AM
Using dosflash and the boxxdr method with a 22 ohm 1/2 watt resistor I was able to pull the f/w, then I went into JF and was able to pull f/w there too (I just wanted to pull key twice and compare).
I was stumped for awhile until I remembered you have to load the OFW into the TARGET section of JF to see the key. After putting that key into the iXtreme 1.6 8xxxx f/w I tried using JF to erase and write the new f/w but after erasing it just wasn't happening, so I went back into dosflash and was able to successfully write the f/w to the drive.
One thing I did different was the method to reconnect the cut traces after everything was done. I just bridged a thin bead of solder across the cuts. It seemed like it would be easier than laying a piece of wire down across them.
Thanks to the guys who originally figured out this method, and thanks to Boxxdr for providing greatly improved pictures of said method.
Post by: Ree1981 on December 20, 2009, 07:45:00 AM
(IMG:http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7876/fixve9.jpg)
I just use a small gauge wire as a probe and plug it into the Tx hole, works -every- time. I guess you still need to do the cuts.. but even they can be "repaired" with some probe wiring.. which of course isn't as safe as soldering, but whatever. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 20, 2009, 11:19:00 AM
QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Dec 20 2009, 09:45 AM)
Has anyone tried to do this with "probes", that is, wires? Comparing the old Lite-on 7 pictures with these new Lite-on 9 ones the "holes" seem to be identical.
PICTURE REMOVED
I just use a small gauge wire as a probe and plug it into the Tx hole, works -every- time. I guess you still need to do the cuts.. but even they can be "repaired" with some probe wiring.. which of course isn't as safe as soldering, but whatever. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
You would need to have a few probes all inserted into the right via points. You would still need to cut traces and you would still need to re-solder the traces when you are done if you want to use the drive again. The probes really wouldn't be much help. I should really make a video next time I do one of these because once you see how quickly I can get one done you will see why probes are just so unnecessary.
Also none of the points shown in the picture for hacking the lite-on 7's are used in this hack. However the boards themself do have same layout and firmware is interchangable bettween all boards.
This post has been edited by syntaxerror329: Dec 20 2009, 07:27 PM
Post by: chiper on December 20, 2009, 02:18:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 20, 2009, 02:20:00 PM
QUOTE(chiper @ Dec 20 2009, 04:18 PM)
Do I need to connect the motherboard to the drive when reading the firmware or can I just read it when the flatcables are unattached?
Nope, when i do mine i de-solder all of the wires and disconnect all the flat cables. You don't need to disconnect anything but i find it easyier.
Read the drive 3 times, compare all three dumps to make sure they are the same. Then repair the cut traces, re-assemble the drive. Make sure it is still working at this point.
Then erase and write the hacked firmware you created from the maximus templates.
Post by: Ree1981 on December 20, 2009, 06:43:00 PM
Just need to make sure I have to learn how to do this or not.
Post by: Takashi on December 20, 2009, 06:55:00 PM
There will never be a software only method.
Post by: iateshaggy on December 20, 2009, 07:15:00 PM
Post by: Ree1981 on December 20, 2009, 07:45:00 PM
I'll just wait for One more person to confirm that this will indeed be the only Lite-on 9 method before I attempt it myself.
Post by: iateshaggy on December 20, 2009, 07:53:00 PM
Post by: chipxtreme on December 21, 2009, 07:36:00 AM
QUOTE(hetster @ Dec 20 2009, 12:45 PM)
the way i did it was to power the drive off and put switch in on position..then in jungle flasher click intro and select yes to resend info..then when ya see the dancing ant dots power the drive on and you get 0x72. then move switch to off position and resend intro then read
When I do this I get status 51 then status D1 when I flick the switch to off, no 20 ohm resisters to hand but off to maplin to get some now
Post by: hawk_dsl-komi on December 21, 2009, 09:33:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 21 2009, 12:20 AM)
Read the drive 3 times, compare all three dumps to make sure they are the same
If match percentage of all three dumps is about 90-95% - they are bad? Key is identifical.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 21, 2009, 10:50:00 AM
QUOTE(hawk_dsl-komi @ Dec 21 2009, 11:33 AM)
If match percentage of all three dumps is about 90-95% - they are bad? Key is identifical.
They should match 100% everytime.
To compare them i just added all the dumps to a winrar archive and made sure thay all had the same CRC.
Because this hack is so new and because jungleflasher doesnt have very good support for these dumps i highly recommend having a spare lite-on drive around to test your hacked firmware with before erasing the source drive.
At least your key is the same 3x so your probably got it right.
Post by: hawk_dsl-komi on December 21, 2009, 02:15:00 PM
One question. Is were some else methods (except JF) to decrypt key from full f/w backup?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 21, 2009, 02:34:00 PM
QUOTE(hawk_dsl-komi @ Dec 21 2009, 04:15 PM)
Key doesnt work with liteon and benq. Realy my mistake - should be test on benq thirst..
One question. Is were some else methods (except JF) to decrypt key from full f/w backup?
Oh no, you wrote it to your drive? I hope not!
Do a google search on the key you got and see if it matches any known bad keys.
I don't know of any other decrypt method besides JF but it does seem to work fine so i am not sure any other method is needed. What i really would like to see is a new version of jungleflasher that can handle opening these full dumps as source. Maybe they can figure out a way to detect bad dumps at the same time.
If you did erase your source drive already try writting back the dumps you made to see if any of them work again with original games.
Everyone that wants to do this hack should get a spare drive. Get a 7xxxx type. Practice on it! Dump key serial method then try full firmware dump and see if key matches. I started making a video today of me doing one and camera battery died about 1 minute from the end. Now i can't find my charger and am just too busy to worry about it right now.
Post by: silverss on December 21, 2009, 03:06:00 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 21, 2009, 03:08:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 21, 2009, 03:38:00 PM
QUOTE(silverss @ Dec 21 2009, 05:06 PM)
hi guys i have done all the procedures to my 93450c drive and i cant get maximus extractor to light the blue led..and i the integrated circuit of it gets really hot..so hot that i burned a finger on it..what am i doing wrong? i have a 24ohm 1/4 resistance..please help..thanks.. if this the wrong place to post this message please sorry.
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 21 2009, 05:08 PM)
Do you mean the usbXtractor? can't use any probes on an 8 or 9 series.
If the MT chip is getting hot then you have a short circuit or you have at one time or another plugged in the power upside down. It is very likely that your xbox will never work again.
Warning to all people trying this hack! Check for short circuits before powering drive with a multimeter! I am making a video that shows proper testing and of course this entire mod process.
Also yeah, same question as Takashi?
I have had a few lite-on boards sent to me for repair that also have the issue of the MT chip getting hot and i have not found anything i can do to fix them
I even created a thread here http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=699795Post by: clucker on December 21, 2009, 04:11:00 PM
Post by: chipxtreme on December 21, 2009, 07:09:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 21, 2009, 07:15:00 PM
QUOTE(chipxtreme @ Dec 21 2009, 09:09 PM)
So anyone got any idea why i'm getting 51/D1 instead of 72, i've now tried 16, 18, 20, 22 ohm resisters from maplin (only place "local" that sells them), only difference is they are 0.6W ones which shouldn't make a difference?
People have used both 1/2 and 1/4 watt so .6 watt should be fine too. Most people with resistor problems are getting status 52 i think.
Check with multimeter that all your cuts are made correctly
Post by: wsc on December 22, 2009, 01:01:00 AM
i am getting a 0x7f error in Jf. When i power the Xbox 360 it will keep on flashing green. Did i brick my drive?
thanks.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 22, 2009, 02:22:00 AM
QUOTE(wsc @ Dec 22 2009, 03:01 AM)
hi
i am getting a 0x7f error in Jf. When i power the Xbox 360 it will keep on flashing green. Did i brick my drive?
thanks.
Sounds like it. Is MT1319L chip getting really hot?
Post by: wsc on December 22, 2009, 02:44:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 22 2009, 01:22 AM)
Sounds like it. Is MT1319L chip getting really hot?
Nope. MT1319L chip is not hot at all.
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 22, 2009, 04:41:00 AM
QUOTE(chipxtreme @ Dec 22 2009, 02:09 AM)
So anyone got any idea why i'm getting 51/D1 instead of 72, i've now tried 16, 18, 20, 22 ohm resisters from maplin (only place "local" that sells them), only difference is they are 0.6W ones which shouldn't make a difference?
you got a soldering prob or something is wrong with the resistors.i would be more leaning for soldering or track cut prob.i got exact error and was stumped,when i rechecked where i had done the cuts with the schematic i realised i had cut wrong place so no wander it did this.recheck your soldering,where you soldered and where you did the cuts.
Post by: ps2moduk on December 22, 2009, 07:53:00 AM
Get your multimeter and check the connections to make sure the cuts are intact and have not been filled after soldering the wires in position.
I would also like to say thanks for the OP and to the original person who made this dump possible.
Post by: sparky2k1 on December 22, 2009, 09:04:00 PM
Error I was getting was when hitting intro, I was more or less as with the 73850 being prompted to power of drive and hit yes, mainly getting 0x51.
Just to also state the drive WAS showing in properties as the 93850 fine and not 73850 as has been quoted.
The first picture shows the tracks cut to isolate pad 101 and all is fine with the continuity tester.
This 2nd Image is where I stopped for now after soldering the jumpover in place as it seems to have done away with the track cut to the left of pad 101 for some reason and in fact seems to have grounded most of the board
Any idea's.
Off to bed for now
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 22, 2009, 09:30:00 PM
QUOTE(sparky2k1 @ Dec 22 2009, 11:04 PM)
Any idea's.
Off to bed for now
I had one sent to me that was acting like yours. Even when i removed the epoxy and lifted pin 101 on the MT chip the pin itself still showed it was shorted to ground. If i was you at this point i would want to just get the xbox working again. Get some de-soldering braid / wick and clean everything up. Then check again and see if pad101 is showing connection to ground. If so i don't have any good news for you.
Post by: MadXandroz on December 23, 2009, 01:35:00 AM
but i got one question please
as i have ordered my xbox elite from dubai Uae all they got is octobor 2009 and december 2009 elites
dont knw how is that possible but that is what they got
not it shouldbe 93450 am i right
and about the soldering i have zero experience in that field but i modded alot of xbox's
so can i pick of the dvd drive and give it to some one with a good expericence to solder it for me so i can dumb the key
this is my first post and i am sorry for my nooby question but i cant find anything other than the 93450C
Post by: Freeloo on December 23, 2009, 05:33:00 AM
QUOTE(MadXandroz @ Dec 23 2009, 09:35 AM)
ok this looks easier than ever
but i got one question please
as i have ordered my xbox elite from dubai Uae all they got is octobor 2009 and december 2009 elites
dont knw how is that possible but that is what they got
not it shouldbe 93450 am i right
and about the soldering i have zero experience in that field but i modded alot of xbox's
so can i pick of the dvd drive and give it to some one with a good expericence to solder it for me so i can dumb the key
this is my first post and i am sorry for my nooby question but i cant find anything other than the 93450C
Yes to both your questions.
Post by: Codymodd on December 23, 2009, 06:00:00 AM
I have a design for a patch of plastic with the wires already ran on one side covered with epoxy and the two wires coming out connected to a switch. On the underside would be pins poking through set in the exact spots for the solder points. So you just cut the traces place the patch on the pcb board making sure the correct points are hit then tape it down and there you have it solderless patch.
Post by: crowdogx on December 23, 2009, 06:26:00 AM
Post by: crowdogx on December 23, 2009, 06:39:00 AM
QUOTE(sparky2k1 @ Dec 23 2009, 04:04 AM)
Right Ive had this board soldered and desoldered quite a few times so forgive the slight roughness of the pictures.
Error I was getting was when hitting intro, I was more or less as with the 73850 being prompted to power of drive and hit yes, mainly getting 0x51.
Just to also state the drive WAS showing in properties as the 93850 fine and not 73850 as has been quoted.
The first picture shows the tracks cut to isolate pad 101 and all is fine with the continuity tester.
This 2nd Image is where I stopped for now after soldering the jumpover in place as it seems to have done away with the track cut to the left of pad 101 for some reason and in fact seems to have grounded most of the board
Any idea's.
Off to bed for now
i also had this mate
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=698983
Post by: sparky2k1 on December 23, 2009, 07:14:00 AM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 23, 2009, 11:35:00 AM
check your soldering,be sure you dont have bridging to other parts of the board.where there are no tracjks it is basicly gnd,if you removed the green covering and put solder on the tracks,if it runs to the other part of the board it will bridge to gnd.so you get incorrect status,check your soldering points even if the wires are soldered on,look for any solder touching areas it shouldnt.
Post by: Codymodd on December 23, 2009, 01:08:00 PM
Yeah ive checked all points with a multimeter just in case the solder bled over to the ground but everything is good. Does anyone know for sure if you can fry the chip?
Post by: Codymodd on December 23, 2009, 01:32:00 PM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 23, 2009, 02:27:00 PM
Post by: Codymodd on December 23, 2009, 02:36:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 23, 2009, 03:03:00 PM
QUOTE(Codymodd @ Dec 23 2009, 04:36 PM)
Got the drive dumped everything went perfect. Spoofed a benq and tada. this is awesome. im going to get to work on my solderless patch idea. i found some copper tape at hobby lobby by my house wonder if that would work for reconnecting the traces or the metal duct tape from home depot.
Metal tapes don't work well or at all. The glue adhesive is non conductive.
How hard is it to spoof a benq. What tools did you need to use?
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 23, 2009, 04:38:00 PM
there is a thread started somewhere on these forums that covered it,very enlightening..
Post by: bissquitt on December 23, 2009, 06:50:00 PM
1) Am I correct in saying I do the wiring, dump the firmware, (verify it), then patch up the traces? No need for any physical modding once I have the key? I'm visiting a friend for the weekend that's doing the soldering and I just want to dump it, patch it back up and deal with the flashing when I get back home.
2) Do I have to do any mode B type stuff when I boot up?
3) Is the flash reversible? I seem to remember seeing something saying it wasn't and I don't want to get caught when MS comes out with a way to detect it? I have no problem not getting on live for awhile, but I don't wanna be screwed if I decide I want to go back to "stock" to avoid the headaches of updating.
4) Is it safe to get on live with these?
5) Also as long as I'm here, an unrelated question, is the JTAG hack detectable/reversible?
Post by: Takashi on December 23, 2009, 07:01:00 PM
2) Mode B is for Hitachi ONLY
3) Yes, stock fw is available.
4) Not yet, no.
5) No, but freeboot is.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 23, 2009, 07:37:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 23 2009, 09:01 PM)
3) Yes, stock fw is available.
You are dumping the stock firmware with this hack so if you ever want to go back to original you better keep the dump you get. Keep it in 3 places. A great place to store it is a web based email account. If you did ever lose the stock firmware you could find it elsewhere as long as you had your key.
Post by: Takashi on December 23, 2009, 07:45:00 PM
Post by: kormart on December 23, 2009, 10:59:00 PM
What are major pitfalls for newbs ? I guess the soldering and the cutting...
. Just not sure if I should try this as Ive seen 2 or 3 ppl say they killed there xbox by doing this...If I pay someone else to do it and get the original firmware on a USB stick can I update new firmware without having to go through the soldering/cutting again ???
Post by: crowdogx on December 24, 2009, 02:05:00 AM
QUOTE(sparky2k1 @ Dec 23 2009, 02:14 PM)
So really you just ignored the tester and wired as per diagrame and it dumped?
yes mate
i waited for a reply to my post all night to check if this was normal
and syntaxerror329 tested his and said it should be not conected (and mine was)
i then checked and checked everything 10 times over
then checked some more
then i said what the hell and went for it
6 or 7 hour's of trying ,to get the same thing pissed me off
so connected the wires and switch and it dumped no problems
just hope i dont get another one like this
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 24, 2009, 03:39:00 AM
QUOTE(kormart @ Dec 24 2009, 05:59 AM)
If I pay someone else to do it and get the original firmware on a USB stick can I update new firmware without having to go through the soldering/cutting again ???
no simply because i think you think that you can put a usb stick on the 360 unit itself and it will upgrade the drive,all xbox360 drives are flashed directly and are connected to a pc to do so.
Post by: kormart on December 24, 2009, 05:30:00 AM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Dec 24 2009, 09:39 PM)
no simply because i think you think that you can put a usb stick on the 360 unit itself and it will upgrade the drive,all xbox360 drives are flashed directly and are connected to a pc to do so.
Hey,
No, I know I need a PC connected and jungle flasher ect. I flashed my benq drive previously and it was the easiest thing in the world. That box RROD and now Im going to get a new one. Expecting liteon which I will need to solder ect. (Not keen on as it seems possible to kill ur xbox).
But once I have the dump on a USB, Can I connect it to my PC and use jungle flasher to flash when an updated firmware comes out, or do I need to solder ect every time.
Basically Im thinking the process will become more like the benq flashing once I have a dump. Just connect Sata and power on using xbox and use jungleflasher and all done nice and easy... Right ???
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 24, 2009, 07:02:00 AM
its just a simple erase and flash as before.
Post by: moreniu on December 24, 2009, 09:17:00 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 24, 2009, 10:26:00 AM
QUOTE(moreniu @ Dec 24 2009, 11:17 AM)
Can you write back the fw after resoldering everything?
Sure, you only needed to cut and solder stuff to get the intial dump. Once you have that patch the traces and then drive is flashed just like any other model of lite-on.
The firmware you dumped is a complete lite-on original firmware so you can write it back if you ever wish to restore the drive.
Post by: sparky2k1 on December 24, 2009, 10:47:00 AM
QUOTE(crowdogx @ Dec 24 2009, 09:05 AM)
yes mate
i waited for a reply to my post all night to check if this was normal
and syntaxerror329 tested his and said it should be not conected (and mine was)
i then checked and checked everything 10 times over
then checked some more
then i said what the hell and went for it
6 or 7 hour's of trying ,to get the same thing pissed me off
so connected the wires and switch and it dumped no problems
just hope i dont get another one like this
Sweet thanks for the reply, I'll give it another bash later
Post by: bissquitt on December 24, 2009, 11:37:00 AM
Flash Chip:
manufacturer ID: 0xc2
device ID: 0x11
name: MXIC/Macronix(MX25l2005)
Size: 262144 bytes
type: Serial with ststus 0x72
Device Properties
Name: No identify possible
Firmware Revision: -
checksum was 1c84 if that matters.
Is this working or not?
JF seems to not work on this system for some reason.
Post by: Codymodd on December 24, 2009, 12:11:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 23 2009, 04:03 PM)
Metal tapes don't work well or at all. The glue adhesive is non conductive.
How hard is it to spoof a benq. What tools did you need to use?
Its very easy to spoof it once i got the dump i opened it as target firmware in jungle flasher and copied the key and inquiry. then opened the benq firmware in the target area and pasted the key in and inquiry under manual spoof. Then i wrote the firmware. You prolly dont even need the inquiry but i did it cuz it aint that difficult to do.
Post by: Codymodd on December 24, 2009, 12:22:00 PM
QUOTE(kormart @ Dec 24 2009, 06:30 AM)
Hey,
No, I know I need a PC connected and jungle flasher ect. I flashed my benq drive previously and it was the easiest thing in the world. That box RROD and now Im going to get a new one. Expecting liteon which I will need to solder ect. (Not keen on as it seems possible to kill ur xbox).
But once I have the dump on a USB, Can I connect it to my PC and use jungle flasher to flash when an updated firmware comes out, or do I need to solder ect every time.
Basically Im thinking the process will become more like the benq flashing once I have a dump. Just connect Sata and power on using xbox and use jungleflasher and all done nice and easy... Right ???
Dont be to worried about frying the drive that thing is pretty strong lol trust me. I crossed wires put the wrong wires together anything that coulod go wrong did. Couple tips i figured out. Only sand the green off the spots you want to solder. If you can do that the solder wont stick to the green coating. Also solder to the traces not the solder points they are so fragile way to touchy for my comfort. Also what i did i just soldered 1 wire to every spot then connected them after its way easier to work with wires that are 5 inches long than 1 inch long having to use tweezers. Gonna work on my solderless patch over the weekend i dont know if anyone is interested inseeing the finished product but if so ill post a pic.
Post by: jackmanfred on December 24, 2009, 04:36:00 PM
regards
j
Post by: moreniu on December 24, 2009, 08:23:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 24 2009, 06:26 PM)
Sure, you only needed to cut and solder stuff to get the intial dump. Once you have that patch the traces and then drive is flashed just like any other model of lite-on.
The firmware you dumped is a complete lite-on original firmware so you can write it back if you ever wish to restore the drive.
Alright, but what version of Ixtreme should I use to write back in, the templates modified with my keys?
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 25, 2009, 12:16:00 PM
example:if you got a 93450 and theres only 1 93450 fw what fw do you think you should use?
talk about using the brain matter!
Post by: kormart on December 25, 2009, 06:42:00 PM
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/4602/solderingattempt.jpg
I assume this is fine and no danger to the board as long as I clean the excess solder off and perhaps most ppl get some excess solder on the board when they do it too ? What is best to clean it off, braid or some kind of solvent or something ?
Also is a 25W soldering iron and rosin core solder 60/40 fine to use ? Its all I have available without going out my way.
Post by: Takashi on December 25, 2009, 06:57:00 PM
there's many many desoldering methods, personally i like bulbs, or any suction type
And no, "excess solder" is NEVER a good idea.
This post has been edited by Takashi: Dec 26 2009, 02:59 AM
Post by: kormart on December 25, 2009, 07:23:00 PM
Just not sure how to do it differently. Hopefully someone will put up a vid on the actual process as the current vids on youtube dont show them actually cutting/soldering the traces.
I tried putting the iron on the trace and the solder on the trace 1mm away and the solder wont melt... So I have to melt the solder on the tip of the iron and drag the tip onto the trace/wire to get solder onto it. Even putting the iron on some wire and then holding the solder on the wire wont melt the solder (iron has been on for 15+ mins and has been tinned and should be 370 degrees c).
Does the type of wire matter ? Im just using some stuff I got out off a dead power supply and stripped it.
Post by: Takashi on December 25, 2009, 07:25:00 PM
Be careful.
Post by: Draiter1 on December 25, 2009, 07:51:00 PM
Just a quick question... I have read, and read, and just when I thought I figured out what to do, this mod came along... LOL....
Before I connect the xbox drive via the Sata cable to my pc, do I have to uninstall the sata drivers for my PC and then install the PortIO drivers, or can I run the programs without changing the drivers?
I use the xbox 360 itself to power the dvd drive, correct?
In order to use dosflash do I have to create a bootable drive using IPrep?
Should I just use jungle flasher instead?
I understand the soldering, and switch portion, and what to do once the xbox is connected, I am just a bit confused as to what to do before that... can someone point me to a tut that includes these aspects....
Thanks in advance....
Post by: kormart on December 25, 2009, 09:09:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 26 2009, 01:25 PM)
To be honest, if you're at that level, you need to study up on proper use of the iron, and forget about the 360 drive for now.
Be careful.
Well honestly I have never really soldered b4. I think my iron has a problem tho, it has been sitting in a draw for about 2 yrs and I didnt clean it b4 I threw it in there, tried cleaning as per google and its still crap.
If I use about 1/2 cm back from the tip on the side, just to solder two wires together, the wires get hot enough to melt the solder. If I use the tip nothing happens... It gets too hot to touch but the wires wont melt the solder. Same on the PCB, I put the iron tip on the trace and the solder on the trace about 1mm from the iron and nothing happens no matter how long I leave it there...The tip can melt solder itself, but it cant get anything else hot enough to melt solder... Anything I can do, or am I screwed ? What Wattage iron should I buy if I get a replacement ?
This is the one I have
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/T2304
Post by: Takashi on December 25, 2009, 10:26:00 PM
Post by: Zoneout on December 26, 2009, 03:29:00 AM
- Exacto / Stanley knife
- 15W Iron
- Kynar wire
- Solder
- Solder flux
- Switch (Jaycar)
- 22 Ohm Resistor
- VIA Card
- DVD Power Supply (Maximus / molex converter).
I use a stanley knife to remove the coating from the neccessary traces, and it does the job very well.
Secondly use the same knife to cut the traces, then apply flux to the traces you want to lay the wiring on and then apply solder.
Wire it up as per the diagram, then I do these steps:
- Lite-On drive disconnected from power (And connected to SATA)
- Flick switch to (ON)
- Open up Jungleflasher and go to the MTKFLASH tab
- Click Device Intro button, and click OK to the accompanying message
- Connect Lite-On to power (Should now automatically show up in JungleFlasher as 0x72)
- Flick switch to (OFF)
- Click read (Read a few times to be safe, make 3 dumps at least, and ensure they are all the same).
- Open Lite-On orig.bin as TARGET
- Right click the TARGET window and click save as dummy.bin
- Open the dummy.bin you've made as SOURCE
- Click "Save drive key"
- Open Maximus iXtreme v1.6 for 83850C v2 and 93450C drive firmware (Choose which file is for your drive - 83850C v2 or 93450C)
- Click manual spoof and open the key.bin to insert your key in the hacked firmware
- Proceed to flash back to drive (Go back to the MTKFLASH tab and click the write button). (test with a spare drive if you need to)
- Solder the cut traces back with some kynar wire as per diagram
- Done!
Cheers
- Zoneout
Post by: colt45joe on December 26, 2009, 03:33:00 PM
QUOTE(Zoneout @ Dec 26 2009, 11:29 AM)
- Proceed to flash back to drive
- Solder the cut traces back with some kynar wire as per diagram
- Done!
Cheers
- Zoneout
why are some guides out there saying after dumping the drive... to then patch up the drive... and then hook it back up and flash it with ixtreme ?
This post has been edited by colt45joe: Dec 26 2009, 11:34 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 26, 2009, 04:32:00 PM
QUOTE(colt45joe @ Dec 26 2009, 05:33 PM)
why are some guides out there saying after dumping the drive... to then patch up the drive... and then hook it back up and flash it with ixtreme ?
It makes no difference. The hard part is reading the drive. You can flash it either patched or unpatched.
I suggest patching the drive up, quickly testing it with a original. Then erase and reprogram.
If your soldering work isn't very nice you should be double checking for any shorts before powering the drive.
Post by: colt45joe on December 26, 2009, 05:54:00 PM
This post has been edited by colt45joe: Dec 27 2009, 01:54 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 26, 2009, 06:01:00 PM
QUOTE(colt45joe @ Dec 26 2009, 07:54 PM)
ok.. and. i am using windows 7 x64.. do i absolutely have to use jungle flasher ? cant i use dosflash to read, erase, and write to the drive?
Ummm, wow read the thread!!! In post #1 I suggest using Dosflash!
Post by: OggyUK on December 26, 2009, 06:07:00 PM
Post by: colt45joe on December 26, 2009, 06:15:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 27 2009, 02:01 AM)
Ummm, wow read the thread!!! In post #1 I suggest using Dosflash!
ya i know dude, but that sentence about winbond confuses me..
guess ill go look that up..
anyways, thanks.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 26, 2009, 07:55:00 PM
QUOTE(colt45joe @ Dec 26 2009, 08:15 PM)
ya i know dude, but that sentence about winbond confuses me..
guess ill go look that up..
anyways, thanks.
From post # 1
"-If you have a Winbond SPI Flash inside (i know, you can´t be sure about this from the outside) you will probably get status 0x72 but instead of recognizing the Winbond flash it will be recognized as unknown flash chip (manufacturer and device ID 0xFF). If that is the case you can´t use Dosflash anymore, you have to use JF! "
So if you try dosflash but get "unknown flash chip (manufacturer and device ID 0xFF) " then you must use jungleflasher. The winbond is found inside the MT1319l chip. Most of them are not winbond so give it a try.
Post by: colt45joe on December 26, 2009, 09:49:00 PM
the front green light keeps flashing.. and it sounds like the drive is not starting..and it wont eject.. so it must be dead right? or could it be anything else ? like does messing up on flashing the drive show these kind of symptoms ? like it didnt erase, or it didn't really write?
ah, damnit.. connected it back to computer. dosflash doesn't see it at all. ugh
This post has been edited by colt45joe: Dec 27 2009, 06:39 AM
Post by: dragon45801 on December 26, 2009, 10:49:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 26, 2009, 11:40:00 PM
QUOTE(colt45joe @ Dec 26 2009, 11:49 PM)
alrighty, i dumped the drive, erased it, created ixtreme firmware, flashed the drive all just fine... then i hooked it all back up, and now the xbox wont start... well, it starts, but nothing shows up on screen, and
the front green light keeps flashing.. and it sounds like the drive is not starting..and it wont eject.. so it must be dead right? or could it be anything else ? like does messing up on flashing the drive show these kind of symptoms ? like it didnt erase, or it didn't really write?
ah, damnit.. connected it back to computer. dosflash doesn't see it at all. ugh
Sounds like you have a short circuit. Do you have a multimeter? Check for shorts. Especially from pad101 to ground.
Post by: colt45joe on December 27, 2009, 02:20:00 PM
i have another drive.. since i have the dump from the liteon, can i use that somehow to make the other drive work on the 360?
This post has been edited by colt45joe: Dec 27 2009, 10:22 PM
Post by: OmbouwHeuvelland on December 27, 2009, 02:23:00 PM
QUOTE(mksoftware @ Dec 7 2009, 03:41 PM)
Anyone from the Netherlands knows a nice shop where to get the Resistor + Switch? The Techshop where I used to get my stuff seems to be out of town and I have another Xbox here which wants Ixtreme really bad (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).
Console Pro, zie fiberglass pen;)
Post by: Tsaphkiel on December 27, 2009, 04:07:00 PM
Ive been trying to flash my liteon 93450C-2 following this tutorial, everything goes well, im able to dump the firmware with no problems, then using dosflash im able to upload the modified firmware using ixtreme 1.6 and no problems there either. But when I try to run a backup game the xbox only recognize it as a DVD movie, I can play everything from CD Audio, video but no games. Any help?
Thanks.
Post by: Takashi on December 27, 2009, 04:11:00 PM
Post by: Tsaphkiel on December 27, 2009, 04:17:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 27 2009, 07:11 PM)
Mismatched DVDKEY.
What do you mean? I dumped the key 5 times to check it was ok and then modified it using 1.6, how can there be a mismatch?
Post by: Takashi on December 27, 2009, 04:37:00 PM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 27, 2009, 04:53:00 PM
you just open your fw you xtracted from your drive using jungleflasher as TARGET then highlight the key and choose COPY.load the 93450 template in target and hit the manual spoof button on right,where you see key area highlight and choose PASTE,your key will be there now hit ok button,if it dont highlight just click the area around it and the ok button will highlight,now click ok,now you can erase the drive and flash that fw to the drive.reason your not getting backups etc working is cos the key is not there or is incorrect,chances are its not present in the fw.you think it is but,it isnt as that error is key related so if it is there then its wrong key MISMATCH as someone called it,the key on drive and motherboard are different.
i think its cos the key is not there,like i said earlier as i made same mistake first time i did 93450.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This post has been edited by saleem_hacks_360s: Dec 28 2009, 12:56 AM
Post by: OggyUK on December 27, 2009, 05:26:00 PM
Each to their own.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 27, 2009, 05:40:00 PM
QUOTE(OggyUK @ Dec 27 2009, 07:26 PM)
I still cant understand why you would use DF and only use JF if it doesnt work, arse about tit imo.
Each to their own.
Yeah, you're right. It is stupid not to just use JF form the begining. If i could edit post #1 i would change it to only describe the JF method.
Post by: pker886 on December 27, 2009, 05:59:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 27, 2009, 06:02:00 PM
QUOTE(pker886 @ Dec 27 2009, 07:59 PM)
omg this seen so hard, i think i'll never know how to get my xbox unban.
The hack described in this topic will not get you unbanned. If you want to get unbanned sell your box and a get a new one. This hack will help you get your new box banned however seeing as we don't have a "live safe" firmware yet. (if there even is such a thing)
Post by: Draiter1 on December 28, 2009, 11:02:00 AM
Thanks for the help in advance.....
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 28, 2009, 11:49:00 AM
QUOTE(Draiter1 @ Dec 28 2009, 01:02 PM)
Hmmmm, great read... and great info... and great help... I am still unclear on one thing though.... by following this method, do I still need to install portIO32 driver?
Thanks for the help in advance.....
Yes, port i/o is still required and the drive for your sata card need to be uninstalled. If not your computer will freeze up.
Post by: Draiter1 on December 28, 2009, 03:54:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 28 2009, 07:49 PM)
Yes, port i/o is still required and the drive for your sata card need to be uninstalled. If not your computer will freeze up.
Thank you for your help. Much appreciated....
Post by: barzi on December 28, 2009, 04:37:00 PM
Some questions:
Is this a good flux to use:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20583
Or is this one better?:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6502
It's cheap and I don't know where I can find flux in The Netherlands.
I also have a question about the switch:
In your first post (with the guide), picture 4. Is the switch in the ON-mode or the OFF-mode (in picture 4, the small pictures)?
Also, can I write the hacked firmware (with my DVDkey in it) with dosflash, like the other Lite-On drives? So first of all: l-o-eras.exe [port number], and then dosflash.exe -> choose right device -> w (write) -> hackedfirmware.bin?
Because I like flashing in dos better then flashing in Windows (bad experience).
Thank you!
This post has been edited by barzi: Dec 29 2009, 01:04 AM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 28, 2009, 05:08:00 PM
also you just flash all the liteons the same so use whatever method works for you.as for the flux,whatever,as long as it does the job thats what matters.i bought cheap crap from ebay,its in a kind of pen thing but,it does the job and thats what matters.
Post by: barzi on December 28, 2009, 05:12:00 PM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Dec 29 2009, 01:08 AM)
you dont necessarily need to use a switch,you can touch the wires together (just hook them round each other) when they are touching,thats on (posistion 1) when they are not touching thats off (posistion 2)
also you just flash all the liteons the same so use whatever method works for you.as for the flux,whatever,as long as it does the job thats what matters.i bought cheap crap from ebay,its in a kind of pen thing but,it does the job and thats what matters.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Thanks! You bought this one?:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Advanced-Solder-Solder...=item5637b27166
How do you apply this on the PCB? Is it liquid or a paste?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 28, 2009, 05:15:00 PM
QUOTE(barzi @ Dec 28 2009, 06:37 PM)
Very nice guide Boxxdr!
Thank you. I have gotten emails from around the world because of it.
QUOTE
Some questions:
Is this a good flux to use:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20583
Or is this one better?:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6502
It's cheap and I don't know where I can find flux in The Netherlands.
I would try Goot Super Soldering Flux - SKU 6502 - It sounds like a Acid flux but make sure you CLEAN it off after you solder! You should try and find some Flux Remover spray. I use one from MG chemicals.
QUOTE
I also have a question about the switch:
In your first post (with the guide), picture 4. Is the switch in the ON-mode or the OFF-mode (in picture 4, the small pictures)?
Off - You should own a multi-meter if your doing this hack and simple probe the switch for continuity or resistance to double check for yourself.
QUOTE
Also, can I write the hacked firmware (with my DVDkey in it) with dosflash, like the other Lite-On drives? So first of all: l-o-eras.exe [port number], and then dosflash.exe -> choose right device -> w (write) -> hackedfirmware.bin?
Because I like flashing in dos better then flashing in Windows (bad experience).
That's how i do it exactly. But JF is a great product and should work fine too.
Good luck!
Post by: barzi on December 28, 2009, 05:43:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 29 2009, 01:15 AM)
I would try Goot Super Soldering Flux - SKU 6502 - It sounds like a Acid flux but make sure you CLEAN it off after you solder! You should try and find some Flux Remover spray. I use one from MG chemicals.
Good luck!
Thanks for the info. Is a Flux remover necessary? Or can I wipe it off with some alcohol (97%)/cotton buds/something?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 28, 2009, 06:01:00 PM
QUOTE(barzi @ Dec 28 2009, 07:43 PM)
Thanks for the info. Is a Flux remover necessary? Or can I wipe it off with some alcohol (97%)/cotton buds/something?
Alcohol will probably work fine. Just clean it up or board can get corroded
Post by: barzi on December 29, 2009, 03:18:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 29 2009, 02:01 AM)
Alcohol will probably work fine. Just clean it up or board can get corroded
Thanks, I will use alcohol then. Also, how do you know how far I have to cut in the specific spaces? What do I have to see when it is enough?
Post by: thestanleycup on December 29, 2009, 03:21:00 AM
thanx again guys
Post by: Suicyde on December 29, 2009, 03:24:00 AM
For those having issues getting 052 status...I don't know if this will help - I was using a switch which has 3 points, not sure how to describe it, but I manage to get correct status switching it from one position, through middle position, then all the way to the completely off position...if that makes any sense!
Thanks BoxxDr - shit hot stuff.
Post by: JamesKindel on December 29, 2009, 03:56:00 AM
The second hiccup I was getting was that even tho JF was detecting the drive, no matter what combo I was doing, it would always give x51 or x52 or even xD1. I cant remember the exact sequence I used to fix this, it was a combo of powering off the drive and powering it on with different switches. The easiest way I WAS able to figure it out was using Dosflash32 instead. leave the xbox power off and the drive in the ON position, load dosflash 32, when it gets to your port that your drive is connected to wait for it to ask about resending, then power the drive on and click yes. At this point youll see x52, switch the switch to OFF and it should give you a x72. Either way, I used dos flash to figure out how to get it into x72, just keep trying different combos like powering it off / turn it on with the switch in a different position, itll eventually come through. Sorry I cant elaborate anymore on that.
Now the last area which I'm stuck on now, I did have the FF once i shot over to jungle flasher to get it into x72. I did the "flip switch, then read". Now heres the problem, either way the flip is switched, i get "No Key found". If I read the firmware with the switch in one position, it shows "Stock" as firmware but I dont see any other info. If i read the firmware with the switch in the other position, I so NO info what so ever, HOWEVER, if i open THIS firmware as target, it shows it as a liteon 74850 AND it shows a key (but only when it is loaded as target, not when it is automatically loaded as souce), But the other firmware which was read with the switch in the other position just says "not a valid target firmware".
Now on to my question
I've read the firmware 20 times in the way which shows it as a 74850 (when its loaded as target firmware) and all the keys are the same. Does this mean this is a legit firmware and I can continue flashing? the key starts with F10D.
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 29, 2009, 05:28:00 AM
Post by: JamesKindel on December 29, 2009, 05:43:00 AM
Post by: Ree1981 on December 29, 2009, 07:45:00 AM
QUOTE(JamesKindel @ Dec 29 2009, 01:43 PM)
even tho I would preffer not to do anymore of these!
Tell me about it. I'm Not looking forward to doing my first one these coming days, and I already have 9 lined up, plus another 12 Elite's just laying around (going to sell). -EVERYTHING- depends on me being able to do these, and I have a feeling it won't go that smooth. ^^;On topic: The compound (or whatever) you use to strip away the green stuff on the card, is it hard to come by and use?
Post by: iglitare on December 29, 2009, 09:14:00 AM
QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Dec 29 2009, 03:45 PM)
Tell me about it. I'm Not looking forward to doing my first one these coming days, and I already have 9 lined up, plus another 12 Elite's just laying around (going to sell). -EVERYTHING- depends on me being able to do these, and I have a feeling it won't go that smooth. ^^;
On topic: The compound (or whatever) you use to strip away the green stuff on the card, is it hard to come by and use?
perhaps you should find another job?
honestly, you should know some solder-work in this buisiness
Post by: thestanleycup on December 29, 2009, 09:49:00 AM
thanx again guys
Post by: wiebel on December 29, 2009, 10:47:00 AM
One question remains, is it also possible to connect the traces just by using some soldering lead? Let me phrase that differently, is it necessary that the "twisted wire" actually touches the traces, or is it allowed to touch the trace via the soldering lead?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 29, 2009, 11:03:00 AM
QUOTE(wiebel @ Dec 29 2009, 12:47 PM)
So far this method has worked great, thanks for that!
One question remains, is it also possible to connect the traces just by using some soldering lead? Let me phrase that differently, is it necessary that the "twisted wire" actually touches the traces, or is it allowed to touch the trace via the soldering lead?
You just need to make sure it has some solder between it and the trace. Solder is highly conductive.
I normally just solder the twisted wire at one side then touch it in the pad 101 area and touch it again on the other side and its all joined up. Of course the closer the wire lays to the traces the better your work will look when your done.
Post by: quaxon on December 29, 2009, 01:24:00 PM
1) After getting the keys, but before flashing, should I remover the resistor, wires, and switch from the drive and put it back together? Also should i put a little solder over where I cut the traces to mend them or is that not needed?
2) I just got an old PC off my dad to do this on, it has a PCI port with a SATA connection, but how do i know that it is the proper chipset that is needed to flash the lite-ons? Also it is really old and really crappy, only 512MB of ram and an old celeron processor, this should still be abe to flash fine correct? Its got xp on it.
QUOTE(Zoneout @ Dec 26 2009, 02:29 AM)
I used:
- Exacto / Stanley knife
- 15W Iron
- Kynar wire
- Solder
- Solder flux
- Switch (Jaycar)
- 22 Ohm Resistor
- VIA Card
- DVD Power Supply (Maximus / molex converter).
I use a stanley knife to remove the coating from the neccessary traces, and it does the job very well.
Secondly use the same knife to cut the traces, then apply flux to the traces you want to lay the wiring on and then apply solder.
Wire it up as per the diagram, then I do these steps:
- Lite-On drive disconnected from power (And connected to SATA)
- Flick switch to (ON)
- Open up Jungleflasher and go to the MTKFLASH tab
- Click Device Intro button, and click OK to the accompanying message
- Connect Lite-On to power (Should now automatically show up in JungleFlasher as 0x72)
- Flick switch to (OFF)
- Click read (Read a few times to be safe, make 3 dumps at least, and ensure they are all the same).
- Open Lite-On orig.bin as TARGET
- Right click the TARGET window and click save as dummy.bin
- Open the dummy.bin you've made as SOURCE
- Click "Save drive key"
- Open Maximus iXtreme v1.6 for 83850C v2 and 93450C drive firmware (Choose which file is for your drive - 83850C v2 or 93450C)
- Click manual spoof and open the key.bin to insert your key in the hacked firmware
- Proceed to flash back to drive (Go back to the MTKFLASH tab and click the write button). (test with a spare drive if you need to)
- Solder the cut traces back with some kynar wire as per diagram
- Done!
Cheers
- Zoneout
in this method there no need for dosflash then? it is all done in JF correct?
This post has been edited by quaxon: Dec 29 2009, 09:27 PM
Post by: quaxon on December 29, 2009, 02:10:00 PM
1) My PCI SATA card says rocketRAID 1640 on it. Is this card suitable to do this with or must it be a 1641A or whatever card?
2) I just went to the store to pick up solder, but was lost as to which one i need. Does it need to be electricity conducting solder or will any type of solder work? Same with the flux, the only one they had said something like "Flux paste" or maybe thermal flux paste? but it was a paste, and it said it was for non-electical aplications i believe, this wouldnt work correct?
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 29, 2009, 02:11:00 PM
do yourself a favor and forget doing this as you cant even read,well you can its just you seem to need to reask when you quote a small tutorial that someone posted.
if i put "why are you such an idiot" am i asking you "why are you such an idiot" or am i asking you ""why are you such an idiot"
Post by: JamesKindel on December 29, 2009, 03:03:00 PM
For cutting the traces, I just used a blade from a box cutter and did alot of cuts on the same line with medium pressure.
For removing the green stuff I just used a baby fingernail file (basically same as the popsicke stick ones) and I had to cut it into a point. If you do this, youll constantly have to trim it down alot to get rid of that stuff thats gets stuck to it. I feel if you do it this way, you can clean a more precise area since you can control the amount you remove.
For fixing the traces, I just used rosin, I dont think theres a need to use wire and all that. Mainly I just used the rosin that was still stuck on the drive from when I desoldered the wires, maybe use just a pinch extra resin if those dont want to connect.
All the stuff I used was from radio shack. Radioshack 25watt iron (64-2070c) Spst rocker switch (275-0693) 63/37 rosin-core solder .050" (64-015) 22ohm resistor (271-1103) as well as 15ohm resistor (271-1102). I used the 15ohm resistor last because when I tried the 22ohm, i thought it wasnt working so when I desoldered everything to try over, i switched resistors. I'm not sure if the resistor was causing any of my hiccups.
Post by: x_fan on December 29, 2009, 05:27:00 PM
Followed thismethod, dumped the firmware perfectly.
Spoofed onto another lite-on and it worked perfectly.
However i re-made the traces on the lite-on however now it doesnt ject properly.
First time it ejects the drive comes out very fast.
Upon closure it just keeps opening.
Anyone come accross this before and know how to fix it?
Any help would be great!
Cheers
Post by: thestanleycup on December 29, 2009, 07:06:00 PM
QUOTE(thestanleycup @ Dec 29 2009, 11:49 AM)
OMG it is late , i,m tired need help please guys. Did this method Boxxdr , used a dremel to do my 3 cut traces, everything is done nice and clean for the cut traces and all the soldering points have been respected connected to a swithc , did redid and reredid all the steps in dosflash16 ver 1.8 and in JF 1.67 and i keep on getting status 52 , so far i tried 22ohms and 20ohms , tried 2 different switches resistors etc.... i have a via 6421 sata card that ive been using for the past 3 years to dump flash consoles. both in dosflash and JF the drive gets recognized 78450C liteon , i,ve read about using lower resistances but am not sure to how low to go or other tricks that someone could tell me , any help at this point would be deeply appreciated and if solution works will report back and write another post to let people that have the same situation that i have the things i did to finally make this work, i haven't tried another drive yet tought like another 78 83 or 93
thanx again guys
So swithched it on typed dosflash and before typing Yes for resending command to drive i swithced it to position no.3 on my switch (1 and 2 like the tutorial and position 3 has nothing soldered on it) then typed Yes Enter, power OFF an On with my conncetivity Kit Lite V3 and finally got status 72 with recognized chip and size , just did the rest with JF and redid same procedure for writing ixtreme 1.61 repack 2 on my 93450C and everything is a go!! i reconnected the traces by just soldering a jumper for the cut tracks...
Post by: akumi on December 30, 2009, 03:42:00 AM
Post by: 864031283 on December 30, 2009, 04:47:00 PM
My nearest electrical store won't be open until the 4th! I have my old launch day 360, is there any on it's mobo?
Also providing I can dump the firmware and read my key. Can I use an MS-25 and spoof it?
Post by: akumi on December 30, 2009, 05:56:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 30, 2009, 06:48:00 PM
QUOTE(864031283 @ Dec 30 2009, 06:47 PM)
Also providing I can dump the firmware and read my key. Can I use an MS-25 and spoof it?
Sure and the best part is a new version of JungleFlasher 0.1.69 (75) was just released so you can now load any lite-on firmware dump as source and just click the spoof to target button! No fuss, no mess!!
Thank you very much Team Jungle for this great new version!!
Post by: theo225 on December 30, 2009, 11:52:00 PM
This post has been edited by theo225: Dec 31 2009, 07:52 AM
Post by: akumi on December 31, 2009, 12:07:00 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 31, 2009, 12:10:00 AM
QUOTE(theo225 @ Dec 31 2009, 01:52 AM)
I can't seem to find a fiberglass brush to prepare the traces and GND. Does anyone know where I might find one?, like can I find one in Home Depot or can I use sand paper?
Use some really fine 600 grit sand paper. Water sandpaper works great. (of course don't actually use water)
You can wrap a bit of this fine paper around a popsicle stick and get the job done just fine.
Nothing beats using a fibre brush so if you plan on doing a few of these then Nutech electronics will gladly ship one to you anywhere in the world.
Nutech Electronics
11E Neilson Street
St. Catharines, Ontario
Tel: (905) 682-9200
Fax: (905) 682-8922
Toll Free: 1-866-6NU-TECH
Email: [email protected]
Post by: dpderr on December 31, 2009, 01:00:00 AM
Anyway, I was able to dump the firmware no problem using the original picture of cutting the traces and soldering to via points. I had no problem flashing the drive. I put it back in the 360 and it boots up just fine. But when I eject the drive, it causes the 360 to reboot to a black screen with nothing else. I can unplug it and turn it on again and it still boots up.
It's just that when I tried to re-attach the via to the trace I cut in the circled area, there wasn't anything to solder because the via was gone. I was hoping to get lucky by putting the soldering iron tip, solder, and wire through the hole and hoped something would stick when I pulled the iron out. Well, you can see that didn't work well.
I hope someone could help me find where I can attach the trace to elsewhere on the board (to wherever the underside of the via led to). Thanks in advance!
(IMG:http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/4434/93450c.jpg)
Post by: theo225 on December 31, 2009, 02:12:00 AM
Post by: Takashi on December 31, 2009, 02:15:00 AM
Post by: br3adofwonder on December 31, 2009, 02:37:00 AM
QUOTE(theo225 @ Dec 31 2009, 04:12 AM)
Is it possible that I can use a SPDT switch like this one? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2062504
I used this one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2062494 mainly because it has an on/off label haha.
Anyway, quick question. I was banned during the MW2 wave (as I imagine most were that used the 1.5 firmware), and just got one of the holiday bundle elites the other day as a replacement, and just managed (with my limited soldering skills) to dump the firmware (it was simple by the way, even with my relative inexperience - thanks a lot for the diagrams).
Here lies the problem: after I got a successful dump from DOSflash, I removed the electrical tape from the PCB, and with it came the pad 101 connection, and pad 101 itself actually somehow broke off the PCB with it, even though I used the jump method and made precise trace cuts. Now, that's not a huge deal because I ordered a BenQ drive to spoof the other day from consolesource.com (planning on running ixtreme 1.41), but then after opening the f/w dump in jungleflasher, I noticed it reads the firmware version as "74850," when I know for a fact it's 93450c.
I can't do another firmware dump, because pad 101 broke off, so I was just wondering if it's normal for JF to read it that way, or if I'm screwed and need to return the console and try again.
Forgive me if this has been answered before. I haven't gone through all 18 pages.
EDIT: Dur. Nevermind. I just noticed the post about the newest version of JF detecting all liteon firmware. Looks like the one dump I managed didn't count for nothing, even if I trashed my drive. Thanks again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Oh and I forgot to add another thing - a friend of mine that works in an electronics repair shop suggested I use isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) with the abrasive side of a sponge (I think they call it a "scouring pad") to expose the PCB as an alternative to the lenline brush that was recommended. It worked, even if it isn't as precise.
This post has been edited by br3adofwonder: Dec 31 2009, 11:05 AM
Post by: joshua225 on December 31, 2009, 03:01:00 AM
Post by: barzi on December 31, 2009, 04:22:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 31 2009, 02:48 AM)
Sure and the best part is a new version of JungleFlasher 0.1.69 (75) was just released so you can now load any lite-on firmware dump as source and just click the spoof to target button! No fuss, no mess!!
Thank you very much Team Jungle for this great new version!!
So load the dump firmware (from i.e. 93450 lite-on) as source, it will automaticly load the iXtreme 1.61 93450 in target, and then press spoof to target?
So no right clicking, save dummy.bin, then save key.bin, and load key.bin anymore? That would be great!
This post has been edited by barzi: Dec 31 2009, 12:23 PM
Post by: joshua225 on December 31, 2009, 12:37:00 PM
I have redone point over and over I hace triple checkec everything mys cut are great
please I need help
This post has been edited by joshua225: Dec 31 2009, 08:42 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on December 31, 2009, 01:05:00 PM
QUOTE(joshua225 @ Dec 31 2009, 05:01 AM)
Will any Tolerance Rating for the 22ohm work????
Ya, tolerance is not too inportant. If 22 isn't working try 24 or 26 too
Make sure you are using the jungleflasher method where you are sending intro's over and over and then power the drive and see if that helps.
Post by: joshua225 on December 31, 2009, 01:10:00 PM
Post by: grantie on December 31, 2009, 01:12:00 PM
QUOTE(theo225 @ Dec 31 2009, 06:52 AM)
I can't seem to find a fiberglass brush to prepare the traces and GND. Does anyone know where I might find one?, like can I find one in Home Depot or can I use sand paper?
its not a fiberglass pencel its a Fibreglass Pencil maybe thats why your having trouble finding one.
Post by: theo225 on December 31, 2009, 01:57:00 PM
QUOTE(grantie @ Dec 31 2009, 02:12 PM)
its not a fiberglass pencel its a Fibreglass Pencil maybe thats why your having trouble finding one.
Aren't you a clever one? Either way, it says brush, not pencil nor pencel.
Post by: br3adofwonder on December 31, 2009, 02:01:00 PM
QUOTE(joshua225 @ Dec 31 2009, 02:37 PM)
ok ive read everything on here I keep geting that 0x51 0xd1 I have tried 22ohm 20ohm 10ohm any help would be great thanks
I have redone point over and over I hace triple checkec everything mys cut are great
please I need help
That's the status I was getting after breaking pad 101. Are you completely sure your connections are good? Have you been using a multimeter to check if you bridged any points you shouldn't have?
QUOTE(grantie @ Dec 31 2009, 03:12 PM)
its not a fiberglass pencel its a Fibreglass Pencil maybe thats why your having trouble finding one.
Fiberglass is the American spelling. Assuming he's American, finding a "fibreglass" pencil might be a little more difficult than finding a "fiberglass" pencil.
Though you probably won't find one at any major hardware shops like Home Depot. For me, it was either order one online or use an alternative method to expose the PCB. I chose the alternative.
Post by: Ave on December 31, 2009, 02:35:00 PM
This post has been edited by Ave: Dec 31 2009, 11:29 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 31, 2009, 02:56:00 PM
Recheck your work.
Post by: akumi on January 01, 2010, 04:27:00 AM
Post by: fitsman on January 01, 2010, 05:53:00 PM
Post by: GeneralA on January 01, 2010, 06:05:00 PM
Any way to just write fw to the flash without it being recognized?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 01, 2010, 06:07:00 PM
QUOTE(fitsman @ Jan 1 2010, 07:53 PM)
I hope in the future to find out another way without any soldering to get the full firmware from liteon drives.
Not likely, the guys that work hard at cracking this are not going to spend alot of time finding a all software method now that we can do this. What you need to be more worried about is what will Microsofts next move be. We have probably used up the last availible hole for hacking these drives.
Post by: fitsman on January 01, 2010, 06:08:00 PM
QUOTE(GeneralA @ Jan 1 2010, 08:05 PM)
Heya, I just dumped my firmware using this method. Everything went smooth and I got my dummy-fixed.bin and my key. Then when i wanted to flash my new ix 1.6 fw on it I accidentaly erased the flash. JF then locked up and i had to restart. Does this mean I bricked the drive? As it obviously wont be recognised now. I have a spare samsung lying around which i could spoof to be the lite-on but i was kinda hoping i could use this new drive.
Any way to just write fw to the flash without it being recognized?
Any way to just write fw to the flash without it being recognized?
No liteons drives isn't bricked so easily.
Try to erase and reflashed again.
This post has been edited by fitsman: Jan 2 2010, 02:09 AM
Post by: Takashi on January 01, 2010, 06:09:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Jan 1 2010, 08:07 PM)
We have probably used up the last available hole for hacking these drives.
Agreed.
I don't see it getting any easier from here on in.
This post has been edited by Takashi: Jan 2 2010, 02:10 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 01, 2010, 06:09:00 PM
QUOTE(GeneralA @ Jan 1 2010, 08:05 PM)
Heya, I just dumped my firmware using this method. Everything went smooth and I got my dummy-fixed.bin and my key. Then when i wanted to flash my new ix 1.6 fw on it I accidentaly erased the flash. JF then locked up and i had to restart. Does this mean I bricked the drive? As it obviously wont be recognised now. I have a spare samsung lying around which i could spoof to be the lite-on but i was kinda hoping i could use this new drive.
Any way to just write fw to the flash without it being recognized?
Ya, you should be able to erase it again and write the firmware no problem. These drives don't brick just from writing or erasing firmware.
Post by: GeneralA on January 01, 2010, 06:46:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Jan 2 2010, 02:09 AM)
Ya, you should be able to erase it again and write the firmware no problem. These drives don't brick just from writing or erasing firmware.
point is, when I try to erase it again it will say invalid status (0x2F r something) and it wont let me erase or write to it.
Ah, well the samsung's brand new as well and using that saves me from undoing all the solder. Does the lite-on have any advantages over the samsung?
Thanks for the great guide and info. If my lite-on is easily fixable id still love to hear how. Never hurts to have another spare lying arou d
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 01, 2010, 06:52:00 PM
QUOTE(GeneralA @ Jan 1 2010, 08:46 PM)
point is, when I try to erase it again it will say invalid status (0x2F r something) and it wont let me erase or write to it.
Ah, well the samsung's brand new as well and using that saves me from undoing all the solder. Does the lite-on have any advantages over the samsung?
Thanks for the great guide and info. If my lite-on is easily fixable id still love to hear how. Never hurts to have another spare lying arou d
Well if it was me i would use lite-on-erase and dosflash32 to fix it. Nothing against jungleflasher those are just the two tools i have been using since the first day lite-on was hacked.
Maybe there is something wrong with your setup? Have you flashed many lite-on's before? All lite-on's flash the exact same way.
Post by: AtlantaMods on January 01, 2010, 06:53:00 PM
Post by: br3adofwonder on January 01, 2010, 06:56:00 PM
QUOTE(GeneralA @ Jan 1 2010, 08:46 PM)
Ah, well the samsung's brand new as well and using that saves me from undoing all the solder. Does the lite-on have any advantages over the samsung?
They're a lot quieter, but the downside to the lite-ons is that (to my knowledge), there are no "safe" (relative term) firmware available for it, so I wouldn't use a lite-on drive if Live is important to you.
Also, when (if) ixtreme LT comes out, the lite-on version is supposed to be out first.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 01, 2010, 07:02:00 PM
QUOTE(AtlantaMods @ Jan 1 2010, 08:53 PM)
i cant seem to get it to dump right in dosflash iv used 22-20-10 ohm resistors and still cant get any thing done right
I think 10 is so low that you risk doing damage. Every one i have done worked with 22ohm so i have no idea why others are not getting the same results.
Post by: AtlantaMods on January 01, 2010, 07:56:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:02 AM)
I think 10 is so low that you risk doing damage. Every one i have done worked with 22ohm so i have no idea why others are not getting the same results.
well with jf i get the status 0x80 and is i turn it off for a second i get the status 0x72 and the chip is
Sending Device ID request to port 0xCF00
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
This post has been edited by AtlantaMods: Jan 2 2010, 04:13 AM
Post by: thestanleycup on January 02, 2010, 12:25:00 AM
QUOTE(AtlantaMods @ Jan 1 2010, 09:56 PM)
well with jf i get the status 0x80 and is i turn it off for a second i get the status 0x72 and the chip is
Sending Device ID request to port 0xCF00
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
Bingo you have it
Post by: AtlantaMods on January 02, 2010, 01:25:00 AM
QUOTE(thestanleycup @ Jan 2 2010, 08:25 AM)
Bingo you have it
if i have it why do i keep having this error Parse Failed !
Post by: Takashi on January 02, 2010, 01:29:00 AM
template_ix16-liteon93450_nostealth.bin
It's happening to everyone.
Post by: AtlantaMods on January 02, 2010, 02:10:00 AM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Jan 2 2010, 09:29 AM)
With this?
template_ix16-liteon93450_nostealth.bin
It's happening to everyone.
i dont understand what your talking about man ?
Post by: Takashi on January 02, 2010, 02:13:00 AM
Post by: AtlantaMods on January 02, 2010, 02:24:00 AM
Post by: Takashi on January 02, 2010, 02:34:00 AM
Read the whole thread and you'll see what i mean.
This post has been edited by Takashi: Jan 2 2010, 10:35 AM
Post by: AtlantaMods on January 02, 2010, 02:38:00 AM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 02, 2010, 08:07:00 AM
i actualy get problem with trying to open hacked fw when the dump opens in source with 1.69,it says cant parse or something like that.
what i would suggest is drop to lower version of jungleflasher and use that to cerate the hacked firmware to flash to the drive,i just pasted the key into the template using manual spoof.
hope this helps.
Post by: OggyUK on January 02, 2010, 09:07:00 AM
re-intro with switch in correct position should fix, but Im still pissed from new year, this info may not be accurate.
Parsing errors (should be reported) but probably havent so its unlikely to get fixed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) - Need the fw to see the issue.....
JF won't load iX 1.6 non stealth for 93450c - and I highly doubt JJ will add support, why would he.
This post has been edited by OggyUK: Jan 2 2010, 05:10 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 02, 2010, 10:12:00 AM
QUOTE(OggyUK @ Jan 2 2010, 11:07 AM)
JF won't load iX 1.6 non stealth for 93450c - and I highly doubt JJ will add support, why would he.
That explains why i was getting errors trying to use the non-stealth. I just gave up and used the offcial. Now my customers can pay for me to update when we have wave 6 or deal with using activate.iso
The last version of jungleflasher let me open the non-stealth so maybe i can just use it.
Post by: OggyUK on January 02, 2010, 10:56:00 AM
This post has been edited by OggyUK: Jan 2 2010, 07:04 PM
Post by: royal88 on January 02, 2010, 01:05:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Jan 2 2010, 12:12 PM)
That explains why i was getting errors trying to use the non-stealth. I just gave up and used the offcial. Now my customers can pay for me to update when we have wave 6 or deal with using activate.iso
The last version of jungleflasher let me open the non-stealth so maybe i can just use it.
Maybe I'm missing something, but 93x NS 1.61 (fixed and working as target in JF .69) is already floating around and links provided in a thread over on another forum.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
Post by: marlbororman on January 02, 2010, 01:16:00 PM
just use whichever hacked firmware you need for the job.
Also if you end up with a dead drive, unable to get it to vendor for erasing or flashing, i had two myself, i left the mods done to the board, and used the switched resistor to force it to intro, job was a gud one
- Lite-On drive disconnected from power (And connected to SATA)
- Flick switch to (ON)
- Open up Jungleflasher and go to the MTKFLASH tab
- Click Device Intro button, and click OK to the accompanying message
- Connect Lite-On to power (Should now automatically show up in JungleFlasher as 0x72)
- Flick switch to (OFF)
- Click read (Read a few times to be safe, make 3 dumps at least, and ensure they are all the same).
- Open Lite-On orig.bin as TARGET
- Right click the TARGET window and click save as dummy.bin
- Open the dummy.bin you've made as SOURCE
- Click "Save drive key"
- Open Maximus iXtreme v1.6 for 83850C v2 and 93450C drive firmware (Choose which file is for your drive - 83850C v2 or 93450C)
- Click manual spoof and open the key.bin to insert your key in the hacked firmware
- Proceed to flash back to drive (Go back to the MTKFLASH tab and click the write button). (test with a spare drive if you need to)
- Solder the cut traces back with some kynar wire as per diagram
- Done!
you just open your fw you xtracted from your drive using jungleflasher as TARGET then highlight the key and choose COPY.load the 93450 template in target and hit the manual spoof button on right,where you see key area highlight and choose PASTE,your key will be there now hit ok button,if it dont highlight just click the area around it and the ok button will highlight,now click ok,now you can erase the drive and flash that fw to the drive.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 02, 2010, 02:15:00 PM
QUOTE(royal88 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:05 PM)
Maybe I'm missing something, but 93x NS 1.61 (fixed and working as target in JF .69) is already floating around and links provided in a thread over on another forum.
No, its me that was missing something. I didn't know that a fixed copy was already released. I had assumed it was a junglelfasher problem. Takashi sent me a PM and told me about the fix.
So for anyone looking for a 93x Non Stealth that is working with the newest jungleflasher check out this thread http://www.xboxhacke...p?topic=13462.0
Post by: crowdogx on January 02, 2010, 06:29:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Jan 2 2010, 09:15 PM)
No, its me that was missing something. I didn't know that a fixed copy was already released. I had assumed it was a junglelfasher problem. Takashi sent me a PM and told me about the fix.
So for anyone looking for a 93x Non Stealth that is working with the newest jungleflasher check out this thread http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13462.0
thanks for the link mate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: Codymodd on January 03, 2010, 01:32:00 AM
This post has been edited by Codymodd: Jan 3 2010, 09:44 AM
Post by: Takashi on January 03, 2010, 03:53:00 AM
Post by: jackmanfred on January 03, 2010, 04:30:00 AM
j
Post by: barzi on January 03, 2010, 04:36:00 AM
QUOTE(Codymodd @ Jan 3 2010, 09:32 AM)
Here is the NEAR solder less patch i made for the Liteon drives. You still have to cut the traces of course and reconnect with solder after you dump the firmware but this cuts the soldering down to a minimum. The three wires that are soldered together on the patch go to pin holes on the circuit board. one point sets on the pin hole on the trace line before pin 101 spot the second sets after it to reconnect the line after the trace has been cut. the third is the bottom connection. The wire all by itself connects to pin 101. You can add a ground connection if you want just pick any ground pin hole and run a wire from it on the patch. I used syntaxerror329 picture of the circuit board to show where the pins on the patch go because i didnt have a clean board to take pics of i hope that was ok. (IMG:http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz95/codymodd/contactpoints.jpg) (IMG:http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz95/codymodd/P1020016b-1.jpg) (IMG:http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz95/codymodd/P1020017b-1.jpg)
Wow! Are the all the "cables" (metal wires) on the patch connected to each other (i.e. 1 with 2 and 3, 2 with 1 and 3 etc.)?
And do you connect the pin 101 wire to a resistor and then to ground? Which ground place do you use?
And you just click this on the lite on PCB? Or do you have to solder anything?
Also you use Boxddr his cut places or the original MRA cut places? Because you use other pins then Boxxdr uses.
Is that BTW a piece of glass of plastic? And you already tested this, and it worked?
This is very handy!
Sorry for the many questions!
This post has been edited by barzi: Jan 3 2010, 12:55 PM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 03, 2010, 06:30:00 AM
without me posting this idea like weeks ago i can guarantee you that many people have thought of this method.
sorry nothing new.
if you want to see the original post i made with regards to a pogo device then let me know and i prove to you.the method we know today had only been out like 2 or 3 days.
i still like boxxdr method,its clean and i can actualy do it pretty fast now and it is efficient and does the job.
Post by: Codymodd on January 03, 2010, 03:40:00 PM
Post by: barzi on January 04, 2010, 04:05:00 AM
Can somebody (with circuit board knowledge, lik Boxxdr) confirm that this can work:
(IMG:http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz95/codymodd/contactpoints.jpg)
Because he uses other places then Boxxdr/MRA method uses.
Post by: Dez[Uk] on January 04, 2010, 06:16:00 AM
Here is a screenshot
Post by: Dez[Uk] on January 04, 2010, 06:57:00 AM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 04, 2010, 08:04:00 AM
Post by: Ree1981 on January 04, 2010, 08:54:00 AM
As for ground I spotted something in the "solderless" thread, dunno if you know if it works or not.
I'm fairly skilled at soldering, just don't wanna do a lot of it if I don't have to, and the probe has worked -very- well for me on the Lite-on 7's.
Post by: Codymodd on January 04, 2010, 09:18:00 AM
Post by: marlbororman on January 04, 2010, 10:55:00 AM
QUOTE
' date='Jan 4 2010, 03:57 PM' post='4604880']
Right bit of an update on this. I switched to an 18ohm resistor and used marlboromans method and it worked first time. Just incase anyone else is having issues using a 22ohm resistor it might be worth trying aan 18ohm
Right bit of an update on this. I switched to an 18ohm resistor and used marlboromans method and it worked first time. Just incase anyone else is having issues using a 22ohm resistor it might be worth trying aan 18ohm
I started off by using a 20 ohm resister, but had 1 single drive that wouldnt play ball, so dropped to an 18 ohm, and ive been using that for all the drives ever since, works spot on. pleased i helped someone by reposting the info
The drive i had problems with was one with a 93450c label stuck over the original sticker on the drive, manufacture date september. it was a 93450 too, dunno wot all the relabeling was about ??
QUOTE(ThePudster @ Jan 4 2010, 05:20 PM)
Ok.
just 1 quick question :
Am I right in thinking that this is only ever needed to be done once per drive as once you have the dvdkey you can erase and write a liteon drive without any hardware mod to it...?
Basicaly you only need to do this to get the key not to write the new firmware..
Thanks....
yep once you read the firmware you can solder the board back up. its flashed like any other liteon
Although.... I had a problem drive couple of days ago, that i thought drive had died,No eject or anything. couldnt get it to vendor in either dos or jungleflasher, and wot i did was resolder the patch back up, and i forced it to vendor with the resistor/switch. This might be worth remembering incase you do have problems.
Post by: Jak_Da_Riipa on January 04, 2010, 01:20:00 PM
Also, all i could find was a 12 ohm resistor is that too low?? thanks
Post by: chare on January 04, 2010, 02:09:00 PM
1) ground wire connected to exact hole shown in bottom picture of post #317, connected to resistor, resistor connected to switch, and
2) wire from pad 101 to switch?
Also, could the trace cuts be repaired with solder alone?
Thanks
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 04, 2010, 02:38:00 PM
QUOTE(Jak_Da_Riipa @ Jan 4 2010, 03:20 PM)
Will this switch work? I salvaged it out of an old alarm clock
IMAGE REMOVED
Also, all i could find was a 12 ohm resistor is that too low?? thanks
Sure that switch will work fine. Any switch would work.
12 ohm is way too low! You could try connecting two 12ohm resistors in series to get 24ohm.
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 04, 2010, 03:03:00 PM
all you have to do is create an hook on 1 wire and just hook it round the other wire,this will be ON posistion,then when you unhook them that will be OFF.
first time i did this i used a switch and all i got was x51 when i removed the switch it worked the way i described,i got the method elsewhere on the forum and it works prefectly well,all a switch could do is give probs,this way eliminates the switch,therfore 1 less prob.
Post by: Codymodd on January 04, 2010, 04:32:00 PM
QUOTE(chare @ Jan 4 2010, 03:09 PM)
Nice work Codymodd!! A question: Would this be the correct way to create a switch with your patch method:
1) ground wire connected to exact hole shown in bottom picture of post #317, connected to resistor, resistor connected to switch, and
2) wire from pad 101 to switch?
Also, could the trace cuts be repaired with solder alone?
Thanks
yes thats exactaly how i have mine setup and the traces could just be reconnected with solder it is easier to use a tiny piece of wire if the cut is kinda wide but if you drag the solder it should connect. Just make sure you check with an ohm meter. I had to set my meter on 2000k to get a good the reading if it zeros out on that your good.
Post by: Codymodd on January 04, 2010, 06:41:00 PM
QUOTE(Codymodd @ Jan 4 2010, 05:32 PM)
yes thats exactaly how i have mine setup and the traces could just be reconnected with solder it is easier to use a tiny piece of wire if the cut is kinda wide but if you drag the solder it should connect. Just make sure you check with an ohm meter. I had to set my meter on 2000k to get a good the reading if it zeros out on that your good.
sorry i meant 2000 NOT 2000k on the ohm meter settings
Post by: akumi on January 05, 2010, 06:33:00 AM
LT Switch
what do you guys think? you can choose to leave it there after soldering.
Post by: Takashi on January 05, 2010, 06:35:00 AM
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=701388
Post by: rudy99kimo on January 05, 2010, 08:18:00 AM
But the weird thing is every time I read the firmware from the drive. There is no DVD key shown. Although jungleflasher saves the dump after I read it. But I couldn't open it as target or source. I also uses dosflasher 1.8 to read it, but same result.
Here is the log,
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
Getting Status from port 0xA400
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Lite-On Dump file saved to C:\my document\JungleFlasher v0.1.69 Beta (75)\JungleFlasher v0.1.69 Beta (75)\Lite-OFW.bin
Loading firmware from buffer
Parse Failed !
Is it because the firmware on the drive is already iXtreme 1.61? To use this method, I need to restore it to the stock?
Or did I do somthing wrong on the PCB?
Thank you
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 05, 2010, 09:06:00 AM
Post by: OggyUK on January 05, 2010, 09:38:00 AM
Post by: Codymodd on January 05, 2010, 10:46:00 AM
QUOTE(Jak_Da_Riipa @ Jan 5 2010, 11:31 AM)
So a wire from ground and risistor to wire from 101 pad connected will be the equivalent of a switch??
yes there is no need for a switch. connected is ON and disconnected is OFF.
Post by: Jak_Da_Riipa on January 05, 2010, 10:51:00 AM
Post by: Codymodd on January 05, 2010, 11:18:00 AM
QUOTE(Jak_Da_Riipa @ Jan 5 2010, 11:51 AM)
Alright, im gonna test it but JF doenst wanna work in windows 7 so im gonna havfta use dosflash i hope i dont have winbond
Huh i use windows 7 and JF works perfect. Granted the older versions of JF dont but 1.67 does fine. What problems are you having with JF and Windows 7
Post by: Jak_Da_Riipa on January 05, 2010, 11:24:00 AM
And I Just Tried 1.67 But No Dice
Post by: Codymodd on January 05, 2010, 11:48:00 AM
QUOTE(Jak_Da_Riipa @ Jan 5 2010, 12:24 PM)
when i click to open it it says "all in one flashing utility for 360 drives have stopped working windows is checking for a solution to the problem" ive tried run as admin and xp compatability mode and its jf 1.69 beta 75. oh, and another thing, when i have the wires together i get no response from the drive and the power button blinks but when i disconnect every thing seems fully functional and the power light stays solid is this normal?? And Ive Gotten 4 succesful bank reads with dosflash
And I Just Tried 1.67 But No Dice
what are you using for the power source for the drive?
Post by: Jak_Da_Riipa on January 05, 2010, 11:50:00 AM
Post by: Codymodd on January 05, 2010, 11:56:00 AM
QUOTE(Jak_Da_Riipa @ Jan 5 2010, 12:50 PM)
The Console
yes the drive does nothing when you have cut the traces and connected the points. You do not have to put the circuit board back in the drive to dump it. As long as your connections are good and its getting power the firmware will dump.
QUOTE(Jak_Da_Riipa @ Jan 5 2010, 12:50 PM)
The Console
always spoof a drive first when modding before erasing the original just so you know for a fact it works.
Post by: Jak_Da_Riipa on January 05, 2010, 12:01:00 PM
and in dosflash when i read the drive whle the wires were connected i get succeful read but the data bank thing reads 0000 but when i power cycle turn it back on when the wires are connected then unhook the wires i also get a successful read and the data bank says like 1804 should i go for the 1804 dump??
Post by: Codymodd on January 05, 2010, 12:11:00 PM
QUOTE(Jak_Da_Riipa @ Jan 5 2010, 01:01 PM)
i wont be able to spoof anything if i cant get jf to work
and in dosflash when i read the drive whle the wires were connected i get succeful read but the data bank thing reads 0000 but when i power cycle turn it back on when the wires are connected then unhook the wires i also get a successful read and the data bank says like 1804 should i go for the 1804 dump??
well i wouldnt erase any drive without trying the dump on a spoofed drive sorry man get another hard drive and install win xp. Its too much of a chance of losing your 360.
Post by: Jak_Da_Riipa on January 05, 2010, 12:19:00 PM
Post by: Sylar on January 05, 2010, 12:23:00 PM
My question is related to the updated Jungleflasher tutorial PDF which covers hacking theses drives. In their tutorial they do things a little different. They solder wires to all three points on their switch and solder those wires to different points on the PCB, still cut the same traces but they don't use the top VIA point (the one which alot of people are eventually pulling out of the PCB). All in all it looks a little neater / easier, I was wondering if anyone has tried the Jungleflasher method, does it work or has the updated tutorial been rushed and had a few things omitted / forgotten and hence incorrect. Thanks.
Post by: OggyUK on January 05, 2010, 01:20:00 PM
QUOTE(Sylar @ Jan 5 2010, 07:23 PM)
Hi all, firstly I'd like to say a big thanks to all involved with bringing this to the masses.
My question is related to the updated Jungleflasher tutorial PDF which covers hacking theses drives. In their tutorial they do things a little different. They solder wires to all three points on their switch and solder those wires to different points on the PCB, still cut the same traces but they don't use the top VIA point (the one which alot of people are eventually pulling out of the PCB). All in all it looks a little neater / easier, I was wondering if anyone has tried the Jungleflasher method, does it work or has the updated tutorial been rushed and had a few things omitted / forgotten and hence incorrect. Thanks.
It works fine, just many ways to skin a cat.
Post by: Sylar on January 05, 2010, 01:34:00 PM
QUOTE(OggyUK @ Jan 5 2010, 08:20 PM)
It works fine, just many ways to skin a cat.
Thanks for that Oggy, I think I'll try the Jungleflasher way, it seems a little easier, I'll be trying this on Thursday, fingers crossed.
This post has been edited by Sylar: Jan 5 2010, 09:40 PM
Post by: quaxon on January 05, 2010, 06:55:00 PM
I have everything all soldered and ready, i got an old computer from my dad to use for this that runs xp. Got a 641A VIA sata card and have the drive circuit hooked up to the sata to computer then to power on the 360. I cannot get the computer to see the drive though no matter what, i cant figure out how to get into dos so ive tried just using dosflash from xp and it wont see the drive and i also tried the jungleflasher method and it still doesnt read any drives. the ports are all there and windows recognizes the SATA card, so what gives? I am using the SATA connection on the inside of the computer rather than the one that goes to the back because the top is cut off and i cant get the cable into it, does this have something to do with it?
Also this is my first time flashing a 360 so im not sure, but is it normal for the 360 to red ring when you are using it to power the drive because mine is?
Please help, i have wires and shit running all over my living room and want to get this done tonight.
Post by: totoz on January 05, 2010, 07:48:00 PM
and if this is the 1st time, give your 360 to a modder
amen
Post by: quaxon on January 05, 2010, 08:42:00 PM
QUOTE(totoz @ Jan 5 2010, 06:48 PM)
plug the video cable to avoid red lights
and if this is the 1st time, give your 360 to a modder
amen
It is the 3 red rings, not the typical ones for the cord not being plugged in, and it still does it with the hdmi in it.
Also i'd rather learn and do it myself, plus there are no other modders around me who can even do this i don't think. Can someone please help me? this is driving me crazy, i hope i didnt break it, but if i did...thats why i got it from costco.
Post by: quaxon on January 06, 2010, 12:11:00 AM
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2797/4250510934_51e4524b58_b.jpg)
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4249737127_4defe09aa5_b.jpg)
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4249737013_af2f8203dd_b.jpg)
Post by: harleywastaken on January 06, 2010, 12:19:00 AM
QUOTE(quaxon @ Jan 5 2010, 11:11 PM)
Here are pictures of my PCB, perhaps i didnt solder it correctly? i havent soldered in a few years so i was a bit rusty, maybe this is what caused the problem?
http://farm3.static....1e4524b58_b.jpg
http://farm5.static....defe09aa5_b.jpg
http://farm5.static....f2f8203dd_b.jpg
you need much smaller wire and a lot less solder. your points look correct (can't really tell if the middle one is one 101 or not), but i can't really see the cuts on the top.
to the doctor: thanks for the tutorial - done 5 or so drives now and it's pretty easy!
Post by: Jak_Da_Riipa on January 06, 2010, 01:12:00 AM
Post by: quaxon on January 06, 2010, 01:19:00 AM
This post has been edited by quaxon: Jan 6 2010, 09:59 AM
Post by: DarkLegion on January 06, 2010, 03:40:00 AM
The drive is not being detected in Jungleflasher/Dosflash32 or by the bios for that matter.I'm not using the VIA card though, so that's most likely the issue.
Post by: barzi on January 06, 2010, 03:48:00 AM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 06, 2010, 04:28:00 AM
Post by: nikoperugia on January 06, 2010, 05:05:00 AM
i used a cardboard cutter to remove the paint from the traces, very easy.
i'm not very good in soldering, but i suggest using thin soldering wire (0.5 mm), as it's easier to heat up without burning the circuit. i managed to get the soldering done without flux.
as far as the trace-cutting goes, even if i tried hard, i couldn't open the circuit completely, that is some current was still flowing (i din't have a multimeter, so i just used a battery and a motor. the motor spun a lot slower when connected to the parts that were supposed to be cut, but still spun). i tried anyway and it worked, so you may give it a try as well if you run into a similar problem.
i also needed to use a smaller resistance, otherwise i kept getting 0x52 status. i used a 100 ohms resistor in parallel to the 22 ohms one, and i got 0x72 on the first try.
i also managed to flash the liteon using my macbook unibody, but that's stuff for another thread..
i hope to have been useful, as this site had been to me
Post by: Johnny HugeButt on January 06, 2010, 05:34:00 AM
JH
Post by: akumi on January 06, 2010, 11:54:00 AM
I think the germans are on to something
Diy Probe For New Liteon 93450c Dumping Using Ck3/usb Extractor, please comment.
http://translate.goo...t...l=&ie=UTF-8
Post by: quaxon on January 06, 2010, 11:56:00 AM
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4251127037_fef1ced033_b.jpg)
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 06, 2010, 12:45:00 PM
Post by: Zhar on January 06, 2010, 01:17:00 PM
Cuz i can only find 12V/10A, 125V/3A and 250V/16A switches.
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 06, 2010, 01:43:00 PM
you can hook the wires together for on and unhook them for off,a switch is just one more thing in the equation that might go wrong or not work from the off.
Post by: Zhar on January 06, 2010, 01:59:00 PM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Jan 6 2010, 09:43 PM)
you dont need a switch full stop,why blow money on a switch when you dont need it?all it does is close and open a connection,nothing more.
you can hook the wires together for on and unhook them for off,a switch is just one more thing in the equation that might go wrong or not work from the off.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
ok cool, thanks for the quick reply (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Going to get the components and stuff tomorrow, hope I dont kill the thing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
And I would also like to give my Thanks to Boxxdr for the tutorial (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: barzi on January 06, 2010, 02:04:00 PM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Jan 6 2010, 09:43 PM)
you dont need a switch full stop,why blow money on a switch when you dont need it?all it does is close and open a connection,nothing more.
you can hook the wires together for on and unhook them for off,a switch is just one more thing in the equation that might go wrong or not work from the off.
Is it dangerous to touch those wires (to connect/disconnect them)?
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 06, 2010, 03:38:00 PM
plenty of users use the same method,where do you think i got it,the original mra way was on xbh where people suggested just touching wires,users here suggested or did the same.boxxdr just simplified it or made it end user friendly,thanks to people like him we get simplified or tidier methods.
Post by: Zhar on January 07, 2010, 10:56:00 AM
and all I have to say is, Im never gonna try anything like that again.
after I cut the traces and solder up everything, my pc wont detect the drive.
freaked me out, thought I had killed it.
luckily, once I patched up the traces it works fine, for now at least, dunno how long my soldering will last
So, basically what I learned from this is:
I suck at soldering...
I suck at cutting traces...
also
For the people out there who have never soldered but are thinking of trying this.
Im not recommending it, this was my second time soldering and I almost killed my drive, but hey maybe you will have better luck than me...
With all that said, Im gonna wait/pray for a "soft" way to get the drive key
*end of rage-rant*
Post by: quaxon on January 07, 2010, 11:04:00 AM
Here is a picture, i am worried i might have fucked up pad101, can anyone tell me if it looks ok or messed up?
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4251127037_fef1ced033_b.jpg)
That brown residue is from using copper desoldering braid, i found it really hard to resolder over after i did it the first time which is what led to burning the pad i think? so im gonna desolder everything and then try to sand that brown stuff off and resolder using my smaller tip.
This post has been edited by quaxon: Jan 7 2010, 07:04 PM
Post by: iateshaggy on January 07, 2010, 11:10:00 AM
Post by: quaxon on January 07, 2010, 11:30:00 AM
I cannot tell if the pad101 is ok or not, that is why i posted a picture, hoping someone here can look at it and tell?
Post by: barzi on January 07, 2010, 11:39:00 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/....item4cecb02990
And I will try it soon (waiting to arrive).
Post by: Mikaz on January 07, 2010, 11:57:00 AM
Post by: moxus on January 07, 2010, 12:00:00 PM
I tried this method several times now.
I re-soldered my wiring harness 3 times, 2 times as described in JF tutorial v0.1.69, and once as this thread describes. Allthough both gives the same error.
I guess the harness is the same, exept for the 3.3 volt wire, and using different points to attach the wires.
Anyway, both in JF and in dosflash, i get the same error.
Status 0x7F (Should be 0x72).
And "device intro failed".
As a side note, with this boxxdr harness, the eject will not work, not even with switch set to "off".
i suppose thats because of the 3.3 volt wire is not there, and something isnt getting its Vcc as it should.
Of course i cant categorically deny that my soldering and cutting is flawed, as its a pretty tricky job.
But i rechecked it many times, also with a multimeter. And since im electronics technican by profession and education, im not a complete stranger to a soldering iron either.
My drive is a Lite-on 83850c, the rear side of the board is marked "BS-3", wich might indicate that its a bastard-child 83850c, even though drive manufacture date is July 2009.
Anyway, any of you guys got any tips?
Is status 0x7F known, when doing the MRA hack?
Of course, i followed the procedure of powering the drive, and switching the button precicely as described.
both here, and in JF tutorial, wich was slightly different.
I use JungleFlasher 0.1.69 (75) beta, on 64 bit windows 7, and Dosflash64 V1.8 build 20090808.
I am running windows in test mode, and i have signed PortIO64.sys, so the driver is loading.
Im not using the VIA chipset, but rather an AMD chipset on my motherboard.
Hence driver removal shouldnt be necessary.
I suppose it works, since my Lite-on does show up both in dosflash and JF, on I/O port 0x9000
0x9000 is sata primary master in my chipset, wich should be "the best" port, if any such thing exist.
This post has been edited by moxus: Jan 7 2010, 08:08 PM
Post by: Sylar on January 07, 2010, 12:00:00 PM
I followed the tutorial in the updated Jungleflasher PDF (different solder points) and it worked perfectly, from what I saw that method looked easier. A big thanks to everyone involved with this and oh yeah a big thanks to my soldering guy Mr Moe, it took him around 30 mins in all, I did the easy bit with Jungleflasher. Thanks.
Post by: quaxon on January 07, 2010, 12:16:00 PM
This post has been edited by quaxon: Jan 7 2010, 08:21 PM
Post by: moxus on January 07, 2010, 12:20:00 PM
jungleflasher.net->downloads->guides & tutorials.
Post by: quaxon on January 07, 2010, 12:25:00 PM
Post by: Sylar on January 07, 2010, 12:26:00 PM
QUOTE(quaxon @ Jan 7 2010, 07:16 PM)
Im gonna desolder my board and try it again. I just went to 3 different hardware stores around my house looking for thinner wire but 22gauge is the smallest any of them had! Would it be ok if just cut a few strands off my wire to thin it out you think?
I used the remnants of a network lead, I think it's an eight core lead. If you have a spare lead, try that or pop down to Maplin if you in the Uk and grab a metre for around 69 pence, you'll have 8 wires, each a metre long which you can hack to you're desired length. Worked perfectly.
Post by: moxus on January 07, 2010, 12:45:00 PM
status 0x7F means no drive present, so apparently it doesnt even find the drive.
if i turn it on with the switch in "off" position, it goes to 0x52/0x51 (both has occured. 0x52 most frequent).
if i turn it on with switch on, and then off, as procedure describes, it goes straight to status 0x52, when it
should go to status 0x72 (vendor mode).
i think status 0x52 means normal operation.
all solders from ground via resistor and switch down to pcb is verified as 100% ok.
dont ask why, but i can say that 100% for sure (kirchoffs law of series couplig).
what i can not say absolutely sure is ok is the cuts, and the wire on the pcb, around the cuts.
any ideas where the error might be? wich cut, or wich solder?
i have checked them all as thorough as i can, an resoldered 3 times without seeing faults.
but obviously, there is a fault somewhere.
Post by: quaxon on January 07, 2010, 12:51:00 PM
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4254857234_6424c3f1d7_b.jpg)
It is a good thing i bought it from costco, if it is beyond repair i am taking it back and getting a new one. The only thing that sucks is i live in san francisco and don't have a car. If anyone else in the city is trying to do these or has experience doing these and wants to join heads and help out please get a hold of me!
Post by: moxus on January 07, 2010, 01:11:00 PM
that way, you can maybe save the card by bridging to that point, instead of pad 101.
the reason i think its the same point is because JF tutorial says you should solder that point, while boxxdr says the same wire should go to pad 101.
i also tested with my multimeter, and it gives 0 ohm between the points, meaning they are connected.
that multimeter reading can be fishy since this was measured in circuit, wich is bad practice.
but it might be worth trying. if your card is f**ked anyway, you got nothing to loose.
Post by: quaxon on January 07, 2010, 01:35:00 PM
This post has been edited by quaxon: Jan 7 2010, 09:46 PM
Post by: moxus on January 07, 2010, 02:49:00 PM
Post by: Blargharg on January 07, 2010, 03:47:00 PM
QUOTE(quaxon @ Jan 7 2010, 07:04 PM)
^I have the same problem, my computer wont detect my drive. Are you using a fine tipped soldering iron? i used just a normal one but i just went out and bought a fin tip and am going to try it again
Here is a picture, i am worried i might have fucked up pad101, can anyone tell me if it looks ok or messed up?
That brown residue is from using copper desoldering braid, i found it really hard to resolder over after i did it the first time which is what led to burning the pad i think? so im gonna desolder everything and then try to sand that brown stuff off and resolder using my smaller tip.
Dude, it's painful to watch. You REALLY need to work on your soldering skills before attempting anything like this again. First of all, the wires are way too thick, someone already told you - use the ones from the UTP cable, they're perfect for this. Also, you didn't properly tin the wires, you used way too much solder and you probably burned the PCB with too much heat. To make it easier for you (and others) in the future - take a few minutes and watch this video to get a hang of the basics:
Also, you need PROPER tools and PRACTICE. Buy a good soldering iron with temperature regulation, a de-soldering pump, a lenline fiberglass pen, and good solder with flux core. BUY PROTECTIVE GLASSES, can't stress this enough. Practice tinning the wires, desoldering with the pump, and soldering with some old PCB you can butcher before trying any of this on the real deal. Soldering is a very useful skill, it's not difficult to learn, but it definitely requires practice, and you don't want to be practicing on your expensive brand new console.
Post by: moxus on January 07, 2010, 04:07:00 PM
turns out that the speciefied resistor of 22 ohm wasnt suficent.
i had to go down to 18 ohm, to make it work. and now it works.
so in case anyone reads this and encounters the same problem:
if your drive wont go to 0x72 status, but keeps on going to 0x52, and you have rechecked your wires at least 10 times, and it STILL dont work:
try a lower resistor. but take it in small steps, and if you get down to 18 ohms, you are pushing it. be careful about going further down.
Post by: marlbororman on January 07, 2010, 05:18:00 PM
QUOTE(moxus @ Jan 8 2010, 01:07 AM)
ok, i solved my issue of not getting the drive into 0x72 status, but rather always having it go to 0x52.
turns out that the speciefied resistor of 22 ohm wasnt suficent.
i had to go down to 18 ohm, to make it work. and now it works.
so in case anyone reads this and encounters the same problem:
if your drive wont go to 0x72 status, but keeps on going to 0x52, and you have rechecked your wires at least 10 times, and it STILL dont work:
try a lower resistor. but take it in small steps, and if you get down to 18 ohms, you are pushing it. be careful about going further down.
hmmm was gunna sugest 18 ohm resistor to you, i hah same prob with a mish mash 93450 drive that had extra labels stuck on the lid.
tried everything in dos and windows.... the 18 ohm cured it first try. its still on my switch needless to say
Post by: harleywastaken on January 07, 2010, 05:40:00 PM
QUOTE(quaxon @ Jan 7 2010, 11:51 AM)
It is a good thing i bought it from costco, if it is beyond repair i am taking it back and getting a new one.
jerk.
Post by: xxrapturesxx on January 07, 2010, 06:13:00 PM
i just have a few questions.
1. what kind of switch do we need exactly?
2. for the trace patches, i have a couple spare wires from an old computer. can i just take like 3 strands of that wire, twist it up, and apply it to the traces? (the wire is silver)
3. and when i lay down the wires on the traces, do i just drop solder over the wire and cover it so it sticks to the board?
4. do i HAVE to use flux? won't it work just as good without it?
5. i want to use a scapel like tool to make the cuts, for $ sake. any reccomendations?
6. can i just use jungleflasher alone to do the mod? (obtain keys, read, erase,write)
sorry about all the questions, just wanna make sure i do this right. thanks alott. -raptures
Post by: moxus on January 07, 2010, 06:20:00 PM
QUOTE(harleywastaken @ Jan 8 2010, 01:40 AM)
jerk.
i can not agree here. shops does not cover warranty returns. that cost is paid out of m$ pocket.
now, ms is the jerks here who dont allow us to play backup games in the first place.
so its only fair that ms get some returns from failed hacks.
i will not lead this discussion to piracy, thats not what this is about.
but its a undeniable fact that discs get worn and eventually fail.
when i have bought a disc, i have bought the lisence to use the software indefinetly.
in order to actually use that software indefinetly, I NEED A BACKUP!
any responsible IT administrator has told you that ALWAYS TAKE BACKUPS. havent he?
exactly. so its irresponsible NOT to have a xbox that takes backups.
and M$is jerks why try to deny us using backups.
ahh.... and as of right now, i have mady my mra harness work, dumped stock FW of my 83850c V2, and flashed it to iX 1.61 =)
so now im a happy player of my backed up copy of forza motorsport 3.
and yes, i do have the original disc. got it for christmas, along with the xbox.
Post by: TacXboxFlash on January 07, 2010, 07:48:00 PM
QUOTE(harleywastaken @ Jan 8 2010, 01:40 AM)
jerk.
Why is he a jerk? Costco has the ability to refuse to accept the return. He never said anything about doing a gut swap, did he? If he does try a gut swap, he is stupid since he will be completely traceable as he has to provide his membership info to Costco for the return. IMO, if Costco will take it back under warranty go for it!
Post by: Kurt Hectic on January 08, 2010, 06:36:00 AM
How about modding 94x Liteon using only the xbox360 as a power source for the drive? Anyone seen a tutorial for this? It works in every previous drives, but after reading some tuts about new Liteons I'm a little confused. Is it possible without buying Xecuter kits or similar?
This post has been edited by Kurt Hectic: Jan 8 2010, 02:37 PM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 08, 2010, 10:21:00 AM
peoples concerns was that if you power on the 360 with no drive attached it made a log and if that condoned a ban then ms would use the fact to ban you.well now it dont make difference as loads got banned for all sorts of reasons.
Post by: V.eX on January 08, 2010, 12:17:00 PM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 08, 2010, 12:53:00 PM
QUOTE(V.eX @ Jan 8 2010, 07:17 PM)
Hello everybody. I have a question. Will this work for liteon 74850C ?
if you had even bothered reading you would have seen that it does.
Post by: rudster on January 08, 2010, 01:08:00 PM
Post by: V.eX on January 08, 2010, 01:10:00 PM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Jan 8 2010, 08:53 PM)
if you had even bothered reading you would have seen that it does.
Sorry, but this theard has 27 pages
). And for 74850C, i follow the same tutorial for 83840C and 9xxx ?
Post by: xxrapturesxx on January 08, 2010, 08:45:00 PM
QUOTE(V.eX @ Jan 8 2010, 09:10 PM)
Sorry, but this theard has 27 pages
). And for 74850C, i follow the same tutorial for 83840C and 9xxx ?yeah you do, this method can be used on ALL Lite On drives. there are earlier methods for the earlier drives (that are easier), but yes this method can be used for all Lite ons.
Post by: V.eX on January 09, 2010, 09:18:00 AM
QUOTE(xxrapturesxx @ Jan 9 2010, 04:45 AM)
yeah you do, this method can be used on ALL Lite On drives. there are earlier methods for the earlier drives (that are easier), but yes this method can be used for all Lite ons.
Worked for me (liteon 93450C, and 74850C). THANKS A LOT !!!
Post by: chase on January 09, 2010, 07:04:00 PM
lite-on 93450C..
i got my board all wired up.
i cant get status 0x72.
i've tried wiring it up as in this tutorial and i've also tried as in the jungle flasher tutorial.
no matter what i do, i keep getting status 0x51 and 0x52.
all my wires are good..
i dont know what im doing wrong.. please help me.
Post by: iateshaggy on January 09, 2010, 07:09:00 PM
Post by: chase on January 09, 2010, 07:37:00 PM
my resistors are 22 ohm - 1/2 W .
Post by: iateshaggy on January 09, 2010, 07:48:00 PM
Post by: chase on January 09, 2010, 07:49:00 PM
did continuity test and its all good
wires soldered good..
???
Post by: iateshaggy on January 09, 2010, 07:51:00 PM
Post by: thestanleycup on January 09, 2010, 08:05:00 PM
QUOTE(chase @ Jan 9 2010, 09:49 PM)
they are good..
did continuity test and its all good
wires soldered good..
???
on your 3 way switch , whenit asks u to resend command for drive , before answering yes , put ur switch to the third position where there is nothing soldered on it and click yes u will get status 72 then put ur switch in center position and read firmware may the force be with u my young padawan
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on January 19, 2010, 04:56:00 PM
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: danthaman673 on January 19, 2010, 08:28:00 PM
QUOTE(Suicyde @ Dec 17 2009, 05:52 AM)
Having real difficulty getting a "clean" cut on the traces - and a dremel tool isn't an option at the minute. I've been using a small flat head screwdriver, and had very limited success, and not a very good result!
Any tips on a particular tool to use?
Thanks in advance -
Cyde
Use a scalpel availible very cheaply in hobby shops and electronic stores (good ones NEway)
Regarding 'V method' I keep either forgetting(to take a photo) or don't have an acceptable camera on hand when I do them :-) Basically one makes the two cuts to isolate pin 101 over the thru-hole (or via to be technically ie round thing with hole marked as pin 101 in diagram) And I make the track-cut's with a scalpel blade having already scrapped-off nearby resist (about 3-4mm either side of the cut) Buzz with meter, if beeps open proceed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (u should still beep with any MRA method) afterwards you can tin then bridge the tracks. THIS MOD IS HAZARDOUS for your drive! I have had 3 customers who have either botched the soldering of just plain fubar'd the chip, sometimes this can brick-drive or render it unresponsive to vendor intro permenantly. Ironically the newer ones seem more resiliant to using such a brute-method (make sure that switch is on for AS LITTLE TIME AS POSSIBLE!!)if you have a 78xx I wouldn't recommend doing this mod over using a probe. It's kind-of unesscesary to have full orig.bin now that LT is out and about (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I would be interested to hear from anyone who has used the new FW to spoof as benq (using ne liteon) and gone online if you have been insta-banned (it usually takes at least a week ne-way from my xp)
or if you have been in the clear (so far)
All the best folks and don't mod too hard :-)
Post by: Dez[Uk] on January 20, 2010, 02:16:00 AM
- Lite-On drive disconnected from power (And connected to SATA)
- Flick switch to (ON)
- Open up Jungleflasher and go to the MTKFLASH tab
- Click Device Intro button, and click OK to the accompanying message
- Connect Lite-On to power (Should now automatically show up in JungleFlasher as 0x72)
- Flick switch to (OFF)
- Click read (This is where it freezes and shows status 80).
Anyone got any ideas?
This post has been edited by Dez[Uk]: Jan 20 2010, 10:44 AM
Post by: scotxbox on January 20, 2010, 05:02:00 AM
I have taken all wires off.
Rewired very carefully.
Not using any switch just bare wires, and an 18 ohm resistor.
But still cant get JF to read data.
We have managed to do other machines using this method but just not this one.
Post by: xboxpirate11 on January 20, 2010, 11:54:00 AM
Y do we have to reconnect the traces?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 20, 2010, 02:09:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxpirate11 @ Jan 20 2010, 01:54 PM)
sorry, but i dont have time to read all 36 pages for a simple answer..
Y do we have to reconnect the traces?
The drive wont work again until you do.
The trace cutting and resistor is used to make the drive think its blank and that gets you into vendor mode so that you can read the firmware.
Post by: scotxbox on January 20, 2010, 03:33:00 PM
Same wires, solders, switches etc
Post by: slimgrip on January 20, 2010, 04:20:00 PM
Worked a treat once i sorted out a small bridge that was causing Status 0x80.
Cheers Boxxdr (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pop.gif)
Post by: xlinkx on January 20, 2010, 05:07:00 PM
Post by: gocybershop2005 on January 20, 2010, 05:22:00 PM
events that happen during the extraction process in Jungle Flasher
that may help some of you that are having some issues.
Open Jungle Flasher 1.7
Open the MTK Flash 32 Tab.
Put the switch to the on setting (towards the ground wire)
Power on the 360 drive.
Click the intro/device id tab
A prompt will come up and ask you to power
the drive on/off within one second
click ok and do that.
The status in the flash chip properties section
will change from 0x51 to 0x52.
Now move the switch on the drive to the off position
and click the info/device id tab again.
This time you will have status of 0x72 (but your not done yet)
It will ask you to save the firmware click cancel
Flick the switch back to the ON position.
Now click intro/device id again
A prompt will come up and let you save the key
and the key will then be posted on the firmwaretool 32 tab.
You can then add your new LT firmware, spoof it, save it and flash your drive
either in windows or in DOS. You can even test the drive
with the switch installed (leave it in the on position)
before you remove the switch and repair the traces.
It works great!
Thanks Boxxdr great diagrams
Thanks commadore, teamjungle
for the LT firmware.
WWW.GOCYBERSHOP.CA
Post by: xlinkx on January 20, 2010, 08:17:00 PM
QUOTE(xlinkx @ Jan 21 2010, 02:07 AM)
Can I use 22 ohm 1/2W resistor instead of 1/4w ? They only have 1/2w available at radioshack.
anyone?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 20, 2010, 10:29:00 PM
QUOTE(xlinkx @ Jan 20 2010, 10:17 PM)
anyone?
Yes, 1/2 watt is fine too. The only reason i state in my tutorial to use 1/4watt is because i figured people want to know exactly what i used.
Post by: xlinkx on January 20, 2010, 10:38:00 PM
-start JF
-put the switch in position 1 (ON)
-power drive
-in the MTKFlash Tab click "intro"
-Menu appears "Click on yes then power cycle the drive immediately"
-Now you'll get 0x72 Status
-put switch in position 2 (OFF)
-click on read
This post has been edited by xlinkx: Jan 21 2010, 07:29 AM
Post by: shanghei on January 21, 2010, 08:50:00 AM
Thanks
This post has been edited by shanghei: Jan 21 2010, 04:51 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 21, 2010, 09:29:00 AM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Jan 21 2010, 10:50 AM)
I would search this question but it dont work, just to clarify this is the modification we must do if we have the 83850C v2 and want to read the fw using JF?
Thanks
Yes, 8xxxx v2 ans 9xxxx this is the only method.
Reading the firmware with jungleflasher is by far the best method. In my first post i suggested dosflash but now i only use JF.
Post by: barzi on January 21, 2010, 11:28:00 AM
(IMG:http://i48.tinypic.com/21x9v6.jpg)
Instead of soldering a wire over the cut traces (you should ofcourse connect the lowest cut, the single one)?
(IMG:http://www.boxxdr.com/LOHACK/LOHACK-LOW-7.jpg)
Or does the connection between over the 2 cuts go over pin 101 or something?
Post by: garlon on January 21, 2010, 11:38:00 AM
QUOTE
Or does the connection between over the 2 cuts go over pin 101 or something?
Yes it does! that trace needs to be connected to pad101
This post has been edited by garlon: Jan 21 2010, 07:38 PM
Post by: Jyffe on January 22, 2010, 04:08:00 AM
Should i just try with it, or order 22 ohm for first attempt?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 22, 2010, 08:15:00 AM
QUOTE(Jyffe @ Jan 22 2010, 06:08 AM)
I just got 20 ohm (actualy 2x 10ohm) resistors from local store.
Should i just try with it, or order 22 ohm for first attempt?
That should work, it has worked for others. Connect the two resistors in series to get 20ohm.
Post by: shanghei on January 22, 2010, 08:31:00 AM
switch
resistor
Thanks
Post by: Paperstack.1 on January 22, 2010, 11:09:00 AM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Jan 22 2010, 09:31 AM)
I am going to radioshack today and aside from the soldering iron, solder, and fiberglass pen here is my shopping list, can you let me know if these are the correct items?
switch
resistor
Thanks
switch
resistor
Thanks
I have the same switch which works fine, but not the same watt resistor. The ones I used were 1/4 watt that are in this 500 pack.
The rest I had no use for so i've returned them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
EDIT: A few posts above confirmed that 1/2 Watt resistors can be used (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This post has been edited by Paperstack.1: Jan 22 2010, 07:14 PM
Post by: garlon on January 22, 2010, 08:44:00 PM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Jan 22 2010, 05:31 PM)
I am going to radioshack today and aside from the soldering iron, solder, and fiberglass pen here is my shopping list, can you let me know if these are the correct items?
switch
resistor
Thanks
Buy flux or even better solder paste. Its 20x easier with that
Post by: Maximize on January 22, 2010, 08:48:00 PM
it has been very helpful to me, I would not have considered doing one until I felt comfortable, your tut gave me the confidence
thanks, man
Post by: shanghei on January 22, 2010, 09:36:00 PM
QUOTE(Paperstack.1 @ Jan 22 2010, 07:09 PM)
I have the same switch which works fine, but not the same watt resistor. The ones I used were 1/4 watt that are in this 500 pack.
The rest I had no use for so i've returned them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
EDIT: A few posts above confirmed that 1/2 Watt resistors can be used (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Hmm I bought the switch tonight and realized its a SPDT and not a DPDT, is that ok? When I connect the drive and try to use jf to get intro the status i get is 0x7f
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 22, 2010, 09:53:00 PM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Jan 22 2010, 11:36 PM)
Hmm I bought the switch tonight and realized its a SPDT and not a DPDT, is that ok? When I connect the drive and try to use jf to get intro the status i get is 0x7f
Any switch will work.
Post by: shanghei on January 22, 2010, 10:53:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Jan 23 2010, 05:53 AM)
Any switch will work.
I dont know what I am doing wrong, I have my drive hooked up to my xbox 360, I turn on the 360 with the switch on the side with the resistor and my xbox flashes red ring I guess is normal. I load jungleflasher and click MTK Flash, click Intro / Device and I get the pop that says resend and power off/on within one sec, right after I click Yes, I turn the switch down then back up within 1 second and the dots just keep going. I either get status 0x7f or 0xD0 . I dont know what I am doing wrong.
I am using a 22ohm resistor 1/2.
Here are two pics.
picture 1
(IMG:http://www.theprayerbox.net/poop/1.jpg)
picture 2
(IMG:http://www.theprayerbox.net/poop/2.jpg)
I checked all my points with multimeter to make sure there are no bridges. I did solder the blue wire and orane wire in pic right on each other since I figured they were on same spot anyways. I dont understand what else I can do. Should I try different resister?
This post has been edited by shanghei: Jan 23 2010, 06:59 AM
Post by: shanghei on January 23, 2010, 12:33:00 AM
The RROD code is 0021
This post has been edited by shanghei: Jan 23 2010, 08:46 AM
Post by: TacXboxFlash on January 23, 2010, 01:15:00 AM
Guys, learn from this dude's mistake as this is exactly what you don't want to do. Use as little solder as possible and make it easier for yourself and use flux where you wanna drop your solder. Heat the work, not the solder and keep your heat low as these pcbs are delicate little bastards. I use a precision screwdriver (flat) to scrape the traces directly. Boxxdr uses a lenline brush in this mod; and that's fine if you know how to solder properly which he does. Box that is some of the prettiest damn soldering Ive seen in a while bro!
Just remember, everything exposed surrounding the traces is fukcing ground dudes!(=bad...). And for fcuk sake, stop soldering to pin 101, u are just asking for bad shit to happen. Use a probe instead, or the actual resistor itself. FWIW, the resistor works for me every damn time and I have done over a dozen 9 series liteons in the last couple weeks. FYI, I am using 2x10 ohm 1/4 watt resistors in series cuz Im a cheap old bastard and had these in the parts bin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Good luck Shang, I am sending you some good juju... Later -- TXF
PS: Most of you dudes are probably half my age, so if you wanna see your 40's don't breathe that hot solder. Make sure you got a fan going while you are working as that is some toxic ass shit. Later... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/muhaha.gif)
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 23, 2010, 02:29:00 AM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Jan 23 2010, 02:33 AM)
I dont know what I did wrong but I undid everything and bridged the cut tracks and hooked xbox up and I get three red rings and the drive dont power up and nothing shows up on my tv. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
The RROD code is 0021
Check for shorts from your solder points to ground.
You can try turning your xbox on with no dvd drive to see if RROD error is gone. If you still get RROD without DVD drive connected then you damaged the southbridge and you would need a expert to replace it. I am able to do it if your really messed it up.
Also please re-size your pictures to no more then 600 pixels wide.
TacXboxFlash has given you some good tips. That wire is way to big!! had you used something like kynar wire 30awg you would have probably got it.
If you want me to do it PM me and i will give you all the details.
Post by: coreire on January 23, 2010, 07:46:00 AM
I'm curious as to why the 3.3v connection is not used in your tutorial, like it was in the MRA schematic. Is the point at 3.3v anyway, so no need to bring it up?
Also the wire at 101 and the wire bridging the sections outside the cuts, could they be joined together as a method of reconnecting the track afterward?
I don't wanna desolder them and run a piece of wire flat (I want to put as little heat down on this board as possible)
Post by: coreire on January 23, 2010, 10:48:00 AM
Just read the flash from my 83850C V2, read it 5 times and compared the CRC's to be safe. So far so good. Gonna flash it and get the traces reconnected in a while.
Obviously the 3.3v wire was unnecessary, still curious as to why it was in the MRA diagram though.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 23, 2010, 12:23:00 PM
QUOTE(coreire @ Jan 23 2010, 09:46 AM)
First off, thanks for taking the time to make up this tutorial. I didn't realize how accurate your soldering was until I opened up my drive and saw how small the tracks are. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Glad you like the tutorial. I can't even believe how popular it has been.
Small? The tracks are HUGE!!! (in my opinion)
QUOTE
I'm curious as to why the 3.3v connection is not used in your tutorial, like it was in the MRA schematic. Is the point at 3.3v anyway, so no need to bring it up?
I use a alternate point. If you follow the traces you will see I simply used a point further down the trace, far away for the very fragile pads.
QUOTE
Also the wire at 101 and the wire bridging the sections outside the cuts, could they be joined together as a method of reconnecting the track afterward?
I don't wanna desolder them and run a piece of wire flat (I want to put as little heat down on this board as possible)
Yes, that would work however if your skill is so bad you can't join it nice and neat like I suggested you really should not be doing this. Sorry I realize that comment sounds a bit prickish but its the truth.
Post by: coreire on January 23, 2010, 02:29:00 PM
Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Post by: shanghei on January 23, 2010, 09:22:00 PM
QUOTE(TacXboxFlash @ Jan 23 2010, 09:15 AM)
Shang! You have way too much solder on your points around pin 101. Look at your pic, the solder is touching ground causing the RROD. Get a desoldering braid and clean those points up and you should be ok and go with smaller gauge (thinner) wire while you're at it. Get rid of those ground shorts bro and hold your breath as u could be boned....
Guys, learn from this dude's mistake as this is exactly what you don't want to do. Use as little solder as possible and make it easier for yourself and use flux where you wanna drop your solder. Heat the work, not the solder and keep your heat low as these pcbs are delicate little bastards. I use a precision screwdriver (flat) to scrape the traces directly. Boxxdr uses a lenline brush in this mod; and that's fine if you know how to solder properly which he does. Box that is some of the prettiest damn soldering Ive seen in a while bro!
Just remember, everything exposed surrounding the traces is fukcing ground dudes!(=bad...). And for fcuk sake, stop soldering to pin 101, u are just asking for bad shit to happen. Use a probe instead, or the actual resistor itself. FWIW, the resistor works for me every damn time and I have done over a dozen 9 series liteons in the last couple weeks. FYI, I am using 2x10 ohm 1/4 watt resistors in series cuz Im a cheap old bastard and had these in the parts bin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Good luck Shang, I am sending you some good juju... Later -- TXF
PS: Most of you dudes are probably half my age, so if you wanna see your 40's don't breathe that hot solder. Make sure you got a fan going while you are working as that is some toxic ass shit. Later... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/muhaha.gif)
thanks for the jujus as I am back in business with my xbox, I used desolder brade to remove all the solder and used kynar to bridge the cuts and everything is working now. Now back to trying to hack it. I am going to attempt to use a resister as a probe now instead of solder to a switch. Wish me luck
Post by: shwaggy on January 23, 2010, 11:09:00 PM
My only question is now that this has been done and it has LT firmware on it will i need to solder it up like this again to reflash later to stock or updated firmware? Or will I be able to write to it as long as I already have the key?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 23, 2010, 11:17:00 PM
QUOTE(shwaggy @ Jan 24 2010, 01:09 AM)
Very Nice Tutorial I flashed my first liteon 9series today and used it.. everything worked to plan right away!
My only question is now that this has been done and it has LT firmware on it will i need to solder it up like this again to reflash later to stock or updated firmware? Or will I be able to write to it as long as I already have the key?
Keep your orig.bin and you will never need to open this drive again
Post by: shwaggy on January 23, 2010, 11:22:00 PM
Thats what I was thinking but just wanted to make sure... Thanks again for the tutorial it works like a charm! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: VanydotK on January 24, 2010, 12:39:00 AM
I soldered the resistor to this point as per Jungleflasher guide, I did not solder the 3.3v.
(IMG:http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/4337/tracea.jpg)
Then on the other side, I used Boxxdr method, without the resistor because it's already on the other side(IMG:http://www.boxxdr.com/LOHACK/LOHACK-LOW-5.jpg)
The odd thing is, I had the switch on OFF, hit intro the drive was in vendor mode, then I put turned the switch ON and did intro again and read the drive fine. The firmware read fine and I've done this with 3 different 7xxx drives.
Any insight?
Post by: shanghei on January 24, 2010, 01:24:00 AM
Post by: TacXboxFlash on January 24, 2010, 03:35:00 PM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Jan 24 2010, 09:24 AM)
Thanks for all the help, I got the files off the drive now no problem. I didnt even bother grounding the resistor to the board, I just use alligator clip and grounded to computer case and put the other side of resistor to pin 101 when I turned it off then on. Yay!
Good job Shanghei, way to hang in there! You really brought that drive back from the brink~! NO RESISTOR?!!? Bro, that was pretty nuts sending ~5vdc to the MTK, IMO you got really lucky. Use a resistor people, 15ohm 1/4 watt is about as low as I would go....
One last comment to Vany, I am now officially anti-switch. You really don't need one and many of my customers having issues with not being able to get 0x72 are a direct result of a bad 101 solder connection or improper use of the switch. Just take the other side of the resistor you soldered to ground and hold it on the 101 via, and intro on power up. If it doesn't work pay attention to the status. If its 0x52 (common), you are probably not making good contact w/101. Reposition and try again. Also, you only need to re-intro if you have 0x72 and show bad drive properties (0XFF...). The last 3 9xxxx series drives I did this weekend came out of the chute good; so save yourself a step if you are there on the 1st intro.. Hope that helps yall --- TXF (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)
This post has been edited by TacXboxFlash: Jan 24 2010, 11:45 PM
Post by: shwaggy on January 24, 2010, 04:33:00 PM
Post by: pricemeista33 on January 24, 2010, 06:25:00 PM
Post by: shanghei on January 24, 2010, 09:21:00 PM
QUOTE(TacXboxFlash @ Jan 24 2010, 11:35 PM)
Good job Shanghei, way to hang in there! You really brought that drive back from the brink~! NO RESISTOR?!!? Bro, that was pretty nuts sending ~5vdc to the MTK, IMO you got really lucky. Use a resistor people, 15ohm 1/4 watt is about as low as I would go....
One last comment to Vany, I am now officially anti-switch. You really don't need one and many of my customers having issues with not being able to get 0x72 are a direct result of a bad 101 solder connection or improper use of the switch. Just take the other side of the resistor you soldered to ground and hold it on the 101 via, and intro on power up. If it doesn't work pay attention to the status. If its 0x52 (common), you are probably not making good contact w/101. Reposition and try again. Also, you only need to re-intro if you have 0x72 and show bad drive properties (0XFF...). The last 3 9xxxx series drives I did this weekend came out of the chute good; so save yourself a step if you are there on the 1st intro.. Hope that helps yall --- TXF (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)
Tac I did use a resistor, I just didnt ground it to the board I grounded it to my computer case with alligator clip. I held the resitor to 101 on powerup and intro and worked fine. Did I do something wrong?
Post by: ahbearbear on January 25, 2010, 02:56:00 AM
The sad thing that happen to me was after the firmware was flashed, the DVD drive caught "Open Tray" error. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) So one useful word of advice, only re-connect all 3 cables after you are done with all the flashing.
Post by: ken D. on January 25, 2010, 03:16:00 AM
I just wanted to know you opinion guys should I buy the kit that powers the xbox dvd drive with the computer's power supply to reduce the chances again? I don't know what kind to get??? can't remember what's it's called but it's made by xecuter??? there's different kind out their just need the basic to power my xbox dvd drive?
Post by: TacXboxFlash on January 25, 2010, 04:03:00 AM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Jan 25 2010, 05:21 AM)
Tac I did use a resistor, I just didnt ground it to the board I grounded it to my computer case with alligator clip. I held the resitor to 101 on powerup and intro and worked fine. Did I do something wrong?
@ Shanghei: Cool I mis-understood! You grounded from the computer case, got it! And no, you obviously did fine since you got the drive to dump well done!
@ Schwaggy: Did you ohm out (buzz) all your connections? Got any pics you can post of your work? Make sure you have NO open connections with ground. Switch or no switch? Lots of missing info, fill in some of those blanks and that would be a start.
Check yall in the AM..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sleeping.gif)
Post by: TacXboxFlash on January 25, 2010, 04:27:00 AM
QUOTE(ken D. @ Jan 25 2010, 11:16 AM)
shanghei, I had the same problem as you did, as my xbox turn RROD with the same error...but luckly my drive did work, but then had 1 RROD, which had something to do with a network chip or video problem....lucky I decided to return it to the store and got a new one...now I'm being much more careful on how I'm going to tacle this hack again....the only problems i've had was using the xbox power to power the dvd drive, and using JF to bring the drive to vendor mode. so the power cycle I disconnect the power connected to the dvd drive and quickly plugged it back in until I got status ox72, and saw the chip properties, that when I suddenly notice my xbox is flashing 3RROD. I was so pissed at my self as I had no clue what to do...
I just wanted to know you opinion guys should I buy the kit that powers the xbox dvd drive with the computer's power supply to reduce the chances again? I don't know what kind to get??? can't remember what's it's called but it's made by xecuter??? there's different kind out their just need the basic to power my xbox dvd drive?
It is made by xecuter and well worth the dosh if you dont want to deal with jumping wires etc.. You still have to make the cuts, and once you get the drive to dump you can remove and reuse the switch again on other drives.
1 RROD?! Are you sure you flashed the right FW? I was going on 2 hrs sleep and flashed 9xxxx series FW to a 8xxxx series drive and got that error. That one made me laugh, I gotta sleep more. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sleeping.gif)
Post by: ken D. on January 25, 2010, 06:00:00 AM
Post by: marlbororman on January 25, 2010, 04:01:00 PM
QUOTE(ken D. @ Jan 25 2010, 01:00 PM)
yes I flashed correctly because my drive is working ejecting and everything.. just got a 1 rrod afterwards so I couldn't test my backups...
That sounds like you havent got the right key flashed to the drive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Post by: Keezie on January 25, 2010, 08:32:00 PM
QUOTE(gocybershop2005 @ Jan 20 2010, 07:22 PM)
We at www.gocybershop.ca found that there is different
events that happen during the extraction process in Jungle Flasher
that may help some of you that are having some issues.
Open Jungle Flasher 1.7
Open the MTK Flash 32 Tab.
Put the switch to the on setting (towards the ground wire)
Power on the 360 drive.
Click the intro/device id tab
A prompt will come up and ask you to power
the drive on/off within one second
click ok and do that.
The status in the flash chip properties section
will change from 0x51 to 0x52.
Now move the switch on the drive to the off position
and click the info/device id tab again.
This time you will have status of 0x72 (but your not done yet)
It will ask you to save the firmware click cancel
Flick the switch back to the ON position.
Now click intro/device id again
A prompt will come up and let you save the key
and the key will then be posted on the firmwaretool 32 tab.
You can then add your new LT firmware, spoof it, save it and flash your drive
either in windows or in DOS. You can even test the drive
with the switch installed (leave it in the on position)
before you remove the switch and repair the traces.
It works great!
Thanks Boxxdr great diagrams
Thanks commadore, teamjungle
for the LT firmware.
WWW.GOCYBERSHOP.CA
this post saved my ass! thanks!
Post by: TacXboxFlash on January 25, 2010, 11:19:00 PM
QUOTE(ken D. @ Jan 25 2010, 02:00 PM)
yes I flashed correctly because my drive is working ejecting and everything.. just got a 1 rrod afterwards so I couldn't test my backups...
Hey Ken,
I would flash back to OFW.bin and see if that solves your problem. You can still eject your drive with the wrong FW version for your drive, fwiw... Good luck bro! TXF
Post by: kormart on January 25, 2010, 11:24:00 PM
Basically need some help with checking for a short. I have no idea and googling how to use a multimeter hasnt helped me much : /
This is the cheap multimeter that I have. Not even sure what what setting to use let alone which areas on the PCB to place the probs...
(IMG:http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/3536/multimeter.jpg)
I have been practicing on 2 old PC dvd drives, cutting traces and repairing them. One drive that was dead now works perfectly after fixing the 4 traces I cut (it was full of dust and a clean seems to have done it).
The 2nd drive, was the one that worked originally. I cut 6 traces and connected them back. Thinking this was great solder work and was 100% sure I was ready to start work on the xbox. But I connected it to PC and a burnt electronics smell came from the drive immediately. I cant see anything wrong with my work. I assume this means I must have shorted it somehow ? I assume its dead but that I should still be able to find the short now to determine what I did wrong.
As long as I dont lift a pad or short it, the xbox DVD pcb will be fine right. Their the two dangers ? So I figure out the multimeter and how to check for shorts and I`ll be ok (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This post has been edited by kormart: Jan 26 2010, 07:25 AM
Post by: kormart on January 26, 2010, 02:02:00 AM
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...p;#entry4625700
Just want make sure this method is legit b4 I kill my drive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: sp71supra on January 26, 2010, 11:22:00 AM
This post has been edited by sp71supra: Jan 26 2010, 07:27 PM
Post by: VanydotK on January 26, 2010, 11:44:00 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/german-quality-fibergl...=item5d27ce3183
Can it be used more than once? thanks.
Post by: shanghei on January 27, 2010, 09:11:00 AM
Post by: xbox360sexual on January 27, 2010, 09:31:00 AM
QUOTE(VanydotK @ Jan 27 2010, 06:44 AM)
Hey Boxxdr, I contacted the company for the fiberglass pen but they haven't responded. Can I use any fiberglass pen? Such as this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/german-quality-fibergl...=item5d27ce3183
Can it be used more than once? thanks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/german-quality-fibergl...=item5d27ce3183
Can it be used more than once? thanks.
Yeah that'll do, and you can buy fibre glass refills for those too.
Post by: kormart on January 28, 2010, 02:21:00 AM
I grew a pair and soldered my pcb and gave it a go. ( Thanks to everyone for guides/help, especially whoever said to use a knife on the traces. It only cleans the trace so no danger of the solder sticking where it shouldn't if u slip).
But.... I got this error
(IMG:http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/448/errorjx.jpg)
I still got a key and managed to spoof it to my spare benq drive which works fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif).
Just not sure if this is the "whole" original firmware and if its ok to flash over my liteons firmware now.
Proceed with flashing lite on, or another method to get a complete flash ? Any info appreciated.
Thanks.
Post by: chiper on January 28, 2010, 11:35:00 AM
Got the same here on my 93450C drive and the serialdata on the board is hidden by the LT Switch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
According to the message you got some newer drives doesn't have this sort of info from the beginning but we have to wait and see what other people say about it.
Post by: kormart on January 28, 2010, 05:44:00 PM
Post by: Danny749 on January 28, 2010, 05:52:00 PM
QUOTE(kormart @ Jan 25 2010, 10:24 PM)
Hey Guys,
Basically need some help with checking for a short. I have no idea and googling how to use a multimeter hasnt helped me much : /
This is the cheap multimeter that I have. Not even sure what what setting to use let alone which areas on the PCB to place the probs...
^^^ I'm on the same boat. Thanks.
Post by: waddpsw on January 28, 2010, 06:05:00 PM
QUOTE(Zhar @ Jan 8 2010, 03:56 AM)
got my stuff today...
and all I have to say is, Im never gonna try anything like that again.
after I cut the traces and solder up everything, my pc wont detect the drive.
freaked me out, thought I had killed it.
luckily, once I patched up the traces it works fine, for now at least, dunno how long my soldering will last
I have dumped one 93450 ok but my other one is not recognised in windows in JF anymore.
Even after removing the switch and repairing the traces. It wont eject with CK3 pro either. Have a i bridged it somewhere ? Where do i start to look for where ive stuffed up ???
Post by: UnnA^ on January 28, 2010, 10:45:00 PM
Post by: gunpeiyoko on January 30, 2010, 06:24:00 PM
QUOTE(Codymodd @ Jan 3 2010, 02:32 PM)
Here is the NEAR solder less patch i made for the Liteon drives. You still have to cut the traces of course and reconnect with solder after you dump the firmware but this cuts the soldering down to a minimum. The three wires that are soldered together on the patch go to pin holes on the circuit board. one point sets on the pin hole on the trace line before pin 101 spot the second sets after it to reconnect the line after the trace has been cut. the third is the bottom connection. The wire all by itself connects to pin 101. You can add a ground connection if you want just pick any ground pin hole and run a wire from it on the patch. I used syntaxerror329 picture of the circuit board to show where the pins on the patch go because i didnt have a clean board to take pics of i hope that was ok. (IMG:http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz95/codymodd/contactpoints.jpg) (IMG:http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz95/codymodd/P1020016b-1.jpg) (IMG:http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz95/codymodd/P1020017b-1.jpg)
Thank you everyone for sharing (specially to MRA and Boxxdr). I'm grateful to codymodd for making such an wonderful design. I try creating a similar one but no soldering needed for key extracting.
http://i47.tinypic.com/1ghl74.jpg
Cut trace at 3 places. Place safety pins into the holes show by Codymodd. These 3 pins must touch each other. Place one more safety pin into pin 101. This one cannot touch the other pins. Connect crocodile clip to this pin, the other end connect to resistor. Connect resistor to ground. Run JF.
If you want help to hold pin, you can get someone to help you or like me. Cut a plastic, place safety pin through plastic into the holes. Use tape to secure plastic against PCB.
No switch, no soldering, no lenline brush.
This post has been edited by gunpeiyoko: Jan 31 2010, 02:28 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 30, 2010, 10:31:00 PM
Post by: Andy_K on January 31, 2010, 12:30:00 AM
First drive I've ever done (well, soldered) and things couldn't have gone smoother... even the 22Ohms 1/4w resistor worked first time... straight into 0x72 vendor mode!!!
Can't say how long it will be untill I try that again, but just wanna thank Boxxr for his genius finds and contributions to the scene!!
Post by: syntaxerror329 on January 31, 2010, 08:20:00 AM
QUOTE(Andy_K @ Jan 31 2010, 02:30 AM)
Well... as of yesterday afternoon, I grew a pair and made the transition from boy to a man!! After 2 weeks of training and studying for this I cracked open my 93450c and successfully dumped the factory firmware.
First drive I've ever done (well, soldered) and things couldn't have gone smoother... even the 22Ohms 1/4w resistor worked first time... straight into 0x72 vendor mode!!!
Can't say how long it will be untill I try that again, but just wanna thank Boxxr for his genius finds and contributions to the scene!!
Congrats! I hope you took a picture of your work. I really like seeing how this turned out for others.
Most of the genius work was done by others. My contribution was to move some of the solder points around to try and reduce the amount of problems people where having.
Post by: gregeet on February 03, 2010, 02:09:00 PM
I did mine yesterday, and it couldn't have went smoother. At first I thought I did something wrong because I kept getting, no key firmware may be corrupt. I was using JF 1.67B, once i used 1.70 it was a piece of cake.
Your tutorial is the easiest to fallow with the high res pics and seemed to be the safest one.
I was about to start scraping the conformal coating off with a knife until I read you used a fiberglass pen. Picked one up for $3 and polished the traces to a nice shine. made things a lot easier. A great tip, that I never knew about.
Great job and thanks!
Post by: g-sas on February 03, 2010, 04:06:00 PM
Does the circuit board have to be connected to the drive while dumping? Or can I desolder the red, white, yellow wires and remove the flat cables?
Post by: iateshaggy on February 03, 2010, 04:20:00 PM
Post by: g-sas on February 04, 2010, 08:17:00 AM
Post by: gregeet on February 04, 2010, 08:32:00 AM
Post by: DanB91 on February 04, 2010, 03:18:00 PM
(Side question: why do we have use a resistor when connecting to ground?)
This post has been edited by DanB91: Feb 4 2010, 11:20 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on February 04, 2010, 03:41:00 PM
QUOTE(DanB91 @ Feb 4 2010, 05:18 PM)
I am going to use the 4 pin method (without any soldering to the board except repairing traces). I only have 1000 ohm (.25 watt) resistors on me. what would happen if i use them?
(Side question: why do we have use a resistor when connecting to ground?)
We use the resistor because we are not trying to short out the drive but rather we are dropping the voltage down. If you use a 1k ohm you will not be able to get the drive into vendor mode.
Post by: TorchMach1 on February 04, 2010, 05:32:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Jan 24 2010, 01:17 AM)
Keep your orig.bin and you will never need to open this drive again
Could you elaborate on this? I'm assuming as long as you have the original dump, that is all the info you need to spoof future hacked firmwares?
By the way, I used your method for dumping my 74850 and it worked on the very first try! Thanks for your help!
Post by: gregeet on February 04, 2010, 05:45:00 PM
QUOTE(TorchMach1 @ Feb 5 2010, 01:32 AM)
Could you elaborate on this? I'm assuming as long as you have the original dump, that is all the info you need to spoof future hacked firmwares?
By the way, I used your method for dumping my 74850 and it worked on the very first try! Thanks for your help!
Post by: speedy2721 on February 04, 2010, 07:44:00 PM
This post has been edited by speedy2721: Feb 5 2010, 03:50 AM
Post by: gregeet on February 04, 2010, 08:26:00 PM
First check all ur soldering and cuts, multimeter would be best, don't have one? inspect with magnifying glass.
Then do this
KEEP DRIVE OFF
MAKE SURE SWITCH IS IN ON MODE (pad101 connected to resistor)
Hit intro
wait till yes and no box pops up.
click yes
Now power on the drive after hitting yes.
should get status x72 with either unknown or some kind of flash type.
Post by: DanB91 on February 04, 2010, 10:33:00 PM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Feb 4 2010, 05:41 PM)
We use the resistor because we are not trying to short out the drive but rather we are dropping the voltage down. If you use a 1k ohm you will not be able to get the drive into vendor mode.
But with ground isn't electricity leaving pin 101? why would u need to tone down the voltage going to directly to ground?
Thanks for the response though. I will have to make a trip to Radioshack
Post by: gregeet on February 05, 2010, 09:19:00 AM
QUOTE(DanB91 @ Feb 5 2010, 06:33 AM)
But with ground isn't electricity leaving pin 101? why would u need to tone down the voltage going to directly to ground?
Thanks for the response though. I will have to make a trip to Radioshack
lol
I don't understand u but....
Right now pin 101 go's to a lot of things from the flash chip. It goes through different conponenets that drop the voltage in the chip as well as protect it.
We are trying to load ground (0) to the chip. But if we connect it directly to ground then there will be no voltage drop, meaning all voltage will be on the chip, chips are designed to work under different kinds of voltage levels.
Ohms law man...
If u put a too big resistor then all the voltage will go to the resistor and none to the chip. Remember v=I*R, so yah
Post by: DanB91 on February 05, 2010, 11:19:00 AM
QUOTE(gregeet @ Feb 5 2010, 11:19 AM)
lol
I don't understand u but....
Right now pin 101 go's to a lot of things from the flash chip. It goes through different conponenets that drop the voltage in the chip as well as protect it.
We are trying to load ground (0) to the chip. But if we connect it directly to ground then there will be no voltage drop, meaning all voltage will be on the chip, chips are designed to work under different kinds of voltage levels.
Ohms law man...
If u put a too big resistor then all the voltage will go to the resistor and none to the chip. Remember v=I*R, so yah
I always thought ground was where electricity left the circuit (at least that's what i was always taught.) It seemed weird to me that you would put a resistor to ground because it seemed to me you were protecting the ground not the chip. I can understand why you would need a resistor when connecting from power to chip, not from chip to ground.
This is getting off topic so I won't request any more explanation. Thanks for your explanation though.
Post by: Savio on February 06, 2010, 02:53:00 AM
Post by: DanB91 on February 07, 2010, 05:07:00 PM
Post by: FireSokar on February 07, 2010, 05:15:00 PM
Post by: DanB91 on February 07, 2010, 05:22:00 PM
QUOTE(FireSokar @ Feb 7 2010, 07:15 PM)
Radio shack has 1/4 watt they are in the "large" bag with a few hundread other resistors
I found them but it was $12 and didnt think it was worth it for one resistor. I already bought the 22ohm .5 watt.
Post by: shanghei on February 08, 2010, 08:19:00 AM
QUOTE(DanB91 @ Feb 8 2010, 01:22 AM)
I found them but it was $12 and didnt think it was worth it for one resistor. I already bought the 22ohm .5 watt.
yes it works that is what i used on two different drives
Post by: DanB91 on February 08, 2010, 10:30:00 AM
QUOTE(shanghei @ Feb 8 2010, 10:19 AM)
yes it works that is what i used on two different drives
thank you very much
Post by: boniis on February 08, 2010, 05:58:00 PM
i have a problem, Ive soldered the right way (tripple checked), the cuts are good but i still get 0x80, 0x51 and 0x52 in jungleflasher. sometimes if i power cycle the drive over and over when its re-sending vendor intro, jungleflasher finds the drive and identifys it correctly in the drive properties box, but if i click intro or something els it just dissapers and the hole procces starts over.
the only thing i can think of now is the resistor, but if someone has an idea or just thinks of something please post a reply.
(i have tested the different tips thats already posted in the thread.)
/boniis
This post has been edited by boniis: Feb 9 2010, 02:01 AM
Post by: totoz on February 09, 2010, 01:42:00 PM
in the end i didn't solder but i learned how to do it!
SUPER EASY GUYS, REALLY! see here (sorry box for this "spam" but I think it could help)
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...2263&st=45#
Post by: Stuna on February 09, 2010, 07:17:00 PM
(IMG:http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8646/meupcb.th.jpg)
Thanks.
Post by: khull on February 10, 2010, 01:59:00 AM
Post by: Dre@m on February 10, 2010, 03:42:00 AM
Stuna L-O Stock FIX: My Webpage
Post by: Stuna on February 10, 2010, 08:39:00 AM
QUOTE(khull @ Feb 10 2010, 03:59 AM)
whoa! how did that happen? did you use the right tools?
Thats was pure inexperience i think and maybe the wrong type solder, i used some that was laying around idk what grade/rate its was but i had to heat for a while for it to melt... but i did the traces and solder right the first time but i had short somewhere cuz the power adapter started to smoke lol...
so i did the patch fix on the cuts, but the drive didnt work, on the 360 just said opening but it was not responding...
then i tried to remove the patches and all the tracks near the cuts came off,
After that i tried the methond off sticking pins on the pads, but im not sure if theres anything left under pad 101 and i dug it pretty deep (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
I used a Weller 25 W soldering iron for the very first time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jester.gif) so those where my results...
Post by: Andy_K on February 10, 2010, 08:46:00 AM
Jeez... looks like you used a welding gun and a sling shot to apply your solder!
Practice, practice, practice..... and when you've done that, practice some more!!!!
Post by: Stuna on February 10, 2010, 08:46:00 AM
QUOTE(Dre@m @ Feb 10 2010, 05:42 AM)
Thanks Dre@m but id if i should try it
Post by: Stuna on February 10, 2010, 03:10:00 PM
QUOTE(Dre@m @ Feb 10 2010, 05:42 AM)
Hey im about to try this to dump my fw but my switch has only two legs not 3 like the one ilustrated, can i put the resistor on the outer one and the 2 other wires on the midle switch leg, can anyone comfirm...
Thanks again
Post by: Filaga on February 10, 2010, 04:24:00 PM
How can i repair this PCB ?
1) the solder, not help. After the resistor soldered everywhere 0 and Xbox have RROD.
How do I measure with a multimeter connections? Which hole exactly? and what should have values when soldering is completed?
At the beginning I had a 104 ohm resistor.
Is there any chance to save my PCB, or is broken?
Already suffer from day 4.
I thank all
PS: I have KEY. I need just repair the PCB.
(IMG:http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/2816/img2269copycopy.th.jpg)
This post has been edited by Filaga: Feb 11 2010, 12:27 AM
Post by: Stuna on February 10, 2010, 04:35:00 PM
If you have the keys and r sure they are correct, dont bother with your pcb just buy one or a complete drive off fleabay cheap, and spoof your keys to it and you should be set
This post has been edited by Stuna: Feb 11 2010, 12:39 AM
Post by: Filaga on February 10, 2010, 04:38:00 PM
Thx for your understanding;)
Post by: Stuna on February 10, 2010, 05:28:00 PM
THis wold fix you pad 101 missing someone else can comfirm... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/1231/101fix.th.jpg)
Post by: Dre@m on February 10, 2010, 10:46:00 PM
QUOTE(Stuna @ Feb 11 2010, 02:28 AM)
@ Filaga
THis wold fix you pad 101 missing someone else can comfirm... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/1231/101fix.th.jpg)
Confirmed it will work.
Clean the extra solder top of the pin 101 and it will be fine
This post has been edited by Dre@m: Feb 11 2010, 06:52 AM
Post by: Dre@m on February 10, 2010, 11:02:00 PM
QUOTE(Stuna @ Feb 11 2010, 12:10 AM)
Hey im about to try this to dump my fw but my switch has only two legs not 3 like the one ilustrated, can i put the resistor on the outer one and the 2 other wires on the midle switch leg, can anyone comfirm...
Thanks again
Yes it is the same dump style as MRA dump.
You Can leave 3,3v jungleflasher switch fix off it only helps the drive detektion.
Post by: Stuna on February 11, 2010, 12:34:00 AM
thanks Dre@m for the inputs and for offering to dump the keys off this pcb for Free, im not gonna pass on your offer, but maybe someone located near me is willing to perform the dump for a small fee?? im in PA/NJ any local moders able to read the keys off this pcb????
Thanks maybe i should start a new tread on this quest... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
Post by: Filaga on February 11, 2010, 02:11:00 AM
(IMG:http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/2536/img2271y.th.jpg)
Post by: Dre@m on February 11, 2010, 03:44:00 AM
QUOTE(Filaga @ Feb 11 2010, 11:11 AM)
I joined this way, it's correct? Xbox has RROD.
(IMG:http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/2536/img2271y.th.jpg)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/love.gif)
Short circuit everywhere.
Do the repair as Boxxdr in his first post!!
And leave the MRA 3,3V FIX in place!!
Solder straight linenes not everywere. (focus)
I hope you didn`t burn your console.
Do the fix like this: My Webpage
Not like this: My Webpage
This post has been edited by Dre@m: Feb 11 2010, 12:00 PM
Post by: Dre@m on February 11, 2010, 09:28:00 AM
Post by: Filaga on February 12, 2010, 11:48:00 AM
(IMG:http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/4909/myrkkyfixcopy.th.jpg)
Post by: Dre@m on February 12, 2010, 12:48:00 PM
QUOTE(Filaga @ Feb 12 2010, 08:48 PM)
Connect the yellow box is the alternative? Or do I also solder?
(IMG:http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/4909/myrkkyfixcopy.th.jpg)
This is your fix: My Webpage
This is your alt fix: My Webpage
Myrkky Fix 2: My Webpage
This post has been edited by Dre@m: Feb 12 2010, 09:06 PM
Post by: Stuna on February 13, 2010, 01:23:00 AM
(IMG:http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3252/pcbc.th.jpg)
I may not look pretty but on tester i found no shorts, and all patches r good...
Thanks,
This post has been edited by Stuna: Feb 13 2010, 09:27 AM
Post by: danthaman673 on February 13, 2010, 10:25:00 AM
QUOTE(Suicyde @ Dec 17 2009, 05:52 AM)
Having real difficulty getting a "clean" cut on the traces - and a dremel tool isn't an option at the minute. I've been using a small flat head screwdriver, and had very limited success, and not a very good result!
Any tips on a particular tool to use?
Thanks in advance -
Cyde
As we've stated previously, Dremel is overkill, unescessary etc.. (see my previous posts on this topic) Use a scalpel or give it to a pro as there is too much to go wrong for an amateur (not just in the soldering dept. there are no garruntees that the very sharp resistor pull-up wont fry mtk chip etc....)
Just scrape-off the (green) solder resist, wipe with isopropyl swab. Solder will then take, But as I've also stated before (you should really read all the posts 1st or send it to pro if ur too lazy) you should use the continuity test on a multimeter to establish that A:ur cuts are good, and after B: Ur joins are good.
U may need more than a basic MM test to get assurances but I assume you have a technical background in electronics or u wouldn't/shouldn't be attempting this.
Hope this helps,
Brgds, Dan
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
Sorry if I come off harsh but I'm sick of fixing amateur stuff-ups pertaining to this mod (we wouldn't have devd/put it out there had I known the haphazard way some ppl would approach this) If u really don't have the 20 bucks to pay some 1 who's job it is to be an expert in this area (prepared for cooked chips etc..) then I say still go for it (it works if u carefully follow my/our instructions 8-9 times out of 10 - depending on ur reigon,mobo,mfr etc..)
Post by: Filaga on February 13, 2010, 11:19:00 AM
(IMG:http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/3743/56896901.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8638/92099951.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9788/66563264.th.jpg)
Post by: Stuna on February 14, 2010, 09:22:00 PM
(IMG:http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3252/pcbc.th.jpg)
And after much frustration and mistakes i was able to dump/flash my Lite on 93450, so i fixed the burned traces on the board and it works like a charm.
Many thanks to Syntaxerror329, Dre@m and everybody else for sharing all this knowledge (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This the 5 xbox i had a chance to mod and every single one had a different type drive and this one was by far the hardest (IMG:style_emoticons/default/muhaha.gif)
Post by: FireSokar on February 14, 2010, 10:31:00 PM
QUOTE(Filaga @ Feb 12 2010, 07:48 PM)
Connect the yellow box is the alternative? Or do I also solder?
(IMG:http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/4909/myrkkyfixcopy.th.jpg)
What made you feel the need to completely remove all the protective coating on that big of area?
Post by: TacXboxFlash on February 15, 2010, 01:36:00 AM
Put the lenline pencil down son.... Seriously I see a couple potential issues here: 1. Why is your top to bottom jumper going directly over an area it has no business being anywhere near? 2. All of the protective green area you have exposed around the traces themselves is ground. Anything that touching ground that shouldn't will create probs (duh.) 3. The pad @ 101 looks like its toast, find the repair thread and do it.
Here's hoping that you at least got it to dump, imo that's the hard part. Provided you didn't short anything to ground you still have a salvageable drive there.
Let this serve as a lesson to anyone else: scrape off only the area you will be soldering to (I use a precision flat head screwdriver), use flux, low heat, and don't go crazy with the solder.
TXF
Post by: Dre@m on February 15, 2010, 04:32:00 AM
It is my work.
Actually i repaired it. It is alive... As good as new.
Only thing i burned the laser when i was fixing it.
Now i now more about the drive operation, so i will never burn a nother laser again.
Myrkky Fix working drive
@syntaxerror329
Nice tutorial, i love it. 10+
Post by: SNAAAKE on February 15, 2010, 05:04:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on February 15, 2010, 05:45:00 PM
QUOTE(SNAAAKE @ Feb 15 2010, 07:04 PM)
uh..I couldnt find 22ohm resister at radioshack. can I use 47 instead? yes I realize this could murder my xbox and set my house on fire. still curious (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) (lol)
I wouldn't suggest it.
Maybe you could find 2 x 10ohm and put them in series. Others have done that.
Post by: SNAAAKE on February 16, 2010, 12:16:00 AM
Post by: akumi on February 16, 2010, 07:05:00 AM
Post by: Ree1981 on February 16, 2010, 12:25:00 PM
Post by: Tander_ZA on February 17, 2010, 07:02:00 AM
Once I have hooked the drive up and flashed the firmware etc, must I remove the wires/switch etc and then repair the traces like in the last picture before putting the drive back into the console and testing it?
Just not too clear on the last step - thanks!
Edit: Also, when it mentions, power on/ off the drive. To do this, remove/plug in power cable from back of drive, correct?
This post has been edited by Tander_ZA: Feb 17 2010, 03:20 PM
Post by: SNAAAKE on February 17, 2010, 05:06:00 PM
Post by: iateshaggy on February 17, 2010, 06:25:00 PM
Post by: peligro on February 17, 2010, 11:17:00 PM
Dremel came in very handy for stripping the traces and making the cuts.
Used 22ohm 1/2 watt resistor. Dumped with JF (winbond).
Post by: SNAAAKE on February 18, 2010, 01:20:00 PM
used 2x 10ohm connected together to get 20ohm and 1/4 watts. here is my ghetto way.
- solder everything according to diagram
- put the switch to on/position 1
- start jf, mtkflash then intro tab
- power the drive when you see the " . . . . ." and get the 0.72 status
- put switch to off/position 2
- press intro again in mtkflash tab
- read
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
This post has been edited by SNAAAKE: Feb 18 2010, 09:21 PM
Post by: bass74 on February 19, 2010, 04:32:00 AM
Great tut's! Gave me confidence to try a 9 series and worked first try! A homemade pcb with pin's and switch did the trick.
Also had a 8 series v2 lying around and had a go with it. Did exactly the same as for the 9, but only get status 0x7F0 in JF.
No matter what I tried it wouldn't change. Checked the cuts and voltage on pin's and all are OK.
Since it was late, I one time got the pins the other way around on the holes. 3,3 and 22 ohm switched....
Because of that I wanted to test if the drive wasn't fried and repaired the cuts to boot up. Of course I lost the 101 via..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) and red light was the result.....
Repaired it with an diagram from Dre@m (thanks!) and all's fine now!
Unfortunally still no dump and now the pin's I made are useless. Is there still a way to dump the FW? What went wrong with the status 0x7F0? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This post has been edited by bass74: Feb 19 2010, 12:36 PM
Post by: freeballt on February 02, 2020, 05:41:00 PM
In addition, when I just connect the white cord to the dvd drive, and my sata cord to my PC, I can never find my drive (yes with the xbox powered on). Why is that?
Post by: freeballt on February 02, 2020, 06:55:00 PM
This post has been edited by freeballt: Yesterday, 03:06 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on March 02, 2010, 09:20:00 AM
QUOTE(freeballt @ Mar 1 2010, 07:41 PM)
I've follow the first post exactly, cut my traces, soldered my wires, etc. Now when I hook it up to my try to eject the cd tray, it won't open. Is that normal?
In addition, when I just connect the white cord to the dvd drive, and my sata cord to my PC, I can never find my drive (yes with the xbox powered on). Why is that?
I think this is caused by a short circuit. Do you have a multimeter? check for shorts to ground.
Also you might want to post a picture of your install.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on March 03, 2010, 08:43:00 PM
QUOTE(fobboi @ Mar 3 2010, 10:27 PM)
can i power up the board with my xbox or do i need to use one of them 360 Power Unit (Maximus Power Dongle)?
You can power your board with the xbox.
But realize that your xbox will log this error and tell microsoft that you have been playing around!
Make sure you plug in the A/V cable or your box will auto power off.
Do not plug the DVD power connector in upside down! so many people have.
Take your time! Clean those traces up nice! If you are having trouble ask more questions.
Make sure you check for shorts beofre powering the board!
If it doesn't go well for you just PM me and I can fix just about anything.
Good luck!
Post by: Dre@m on March 04, 2010, 03:44:00 AM
http://dream.pic.fi/...20salat/BoxxDR/
Post by: totoz on March 04, 2010, 09:45:00 AM
http://www.delphigla...temsysid=127400
Post by: syntaxerror329 on March 04, 2010, 10:09:00 AM
QUOTE(totoz @ Mar 4 2010, 11:45 AM)
i want to add one thing I found: pre tinned copper wire , useful to rejoin traces
http://www.delphigla...temsysid=127400
Your link doesn't seem to work. I think it only works when you are logged in.
Post by: zikronix on March 04, 2010, 02:43:00 PM
Ok so I installed the maximus litekey. soldering is good was able to dump my 93450 and flash lt tested with a retail game it plays fine....great
However, I got the no serial data error with jungle flasher 1.71 when dumping the orginal firmware.
it gave me the option of putting it in. But I read that we dont need to because this is a full dump and if it isnt in there then its not in there ? is this correct?
has any one expereinced that with the new jf
should i check with a hex editor to see if the calibration data, etc made it over and if i need to copy that data over manually i read about opening the ofw and using a hexeditor then copying the data and then pasting it into the cfw.
do i need to do that?
Post by: zikronix on March 04, 2010, 04:25:00 PM
QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Mar 5 2010, 12:07 AM)
i would leave it alone. if there was no data, then don't fix it. it worked before w/o it. i see no reason why jf would have problems w/ letting you flash the firmware other than giving u some warnings u can ignore.
good enough
Post by: totoz on March 05, 2010, 02:39:00 AM
http://www.delphigla...temsysid=127400
Post by: syntaxerror329 on March 05, 2010, 12:07:00 PM
QUOTE(suhas93 @ Mar 5 2010, 12:24 PM)
Hi,
I tried this method. As soon as I turn on the power, this wire started burning..
Before soldering I checked for continuity..
Only the black line was not continuous..
This should happen?
So, this drive is bricked?
I think the wire was very thin... was that a problem?
Help me!!
Well you must have a short at the bottom point of "Mr Smoky"
Anyone doing this hack should be checking for shorts to ground with a multimeter before powering board. My soldering skills are A++ and i still check every board before powering.
Post by: suhas93 on March 06, 2010, 03:02:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Mar 6 2010, 12:37 AM)
Well you must have a short at the bottom point of "Mr Smoky"
Anyone doing this hack should be checking for shorts to ground with a multimeter before powering board. My soldering skills are A++ and i still check every board before powering.
Hi,
I resoldering it.. its smoking nomore... but as soon as I plug in my drive ... my computer hangs...
am gonna try this with DOS (using a boot dvd maybe) ... is it possible?
My drive is bricked!! can I recover it?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on March 06, 2010, 03:46:00 AM
QUOTE(suhas93 @ Mar 6 2010, 05:02 AM)
Hi,
I resoldering it.. its smoking nomore... but as soon as I plug in my drive ... my computer hangs...
am gonna try this with DOS (using a boot dvd maybe) ... is it possible?
My drive is bricked!! can I recover it?
You should PM me. I am a expert at fixing these. At the very least i should be able to get your key so that you can replace your drive.
Post by: wang601 on March 06, 2010, 05:00:00 PM
I'm having a problem after making the cuts. I'm still getting a connection on the points indicated in this pic using my multimeter. I made all the cuts using a Dremel and pretty sure there's no connections. Any help would be much appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
Here's my pcb http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac107/w.../CIMG0397_1.jpg
I've also tested all points to ground and my multimeter says they are all connected to ground except point C. Point C is the only part that is isolated. The rest show a connection to ground (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I'm guessing that shouldn't be the case. Here's the pic of what I'm talking about.
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac107/w...IMG0397_2-1.jpg
This post has been edited by wang601: Mar 7 2010, 01:34 AM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on March 06, 2010, 06:14:00 PM
QUOTE(wang601 @ Mar 6 2010, 07:00 PM)
Hi all,
I'm having a problem after making the cuts. I'm still getting a connection on the points indicated in this pic using my multimeter. I made all the cuts using a Dremel and pretty sure there's no connections. Any help would be much appreciated
Here's my pcb http://i890.photobuc.../CIMG0397_1.jpg
I've also tested all points to ground and my multimeter says they are all connected to ground except point C. Point C is the only part that is isolated. The rest show a connection to ground
I'm guessing that shouldn't be the case. Here's the pic of what I'm talking about.http://i890.photobuc...IMG0397_2-1.jpg
I can't understand how you could have a short. You havent even soldered yet.
Your cuts are clearly done right. I am at a loss. Only thing i can tell you is don't power drive up untill you figure out what is going on.
Post by: wang601 on March 06, 2010, 07:28:00 PM
Post by: killamilla on March 07, 2010, 02:21:00 AM
QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 5 2009, 11:55 AM)
Not me. This makes the hack hard enough that most people will hire someone to do it. Most of my local competitors don't know how to use a soldering iron.
No homemade tool is going to be able to cut traces and that is required to pull down the voltage to make this hack work.
I don't think c4eva or team jungle are going to spend any time working on a software dumping method now that this is possible.
A small flathead screwdriver works fine to both cut traces and expose them... just sayin.
Post by: igotwormz on March 07, 2010, 03:41:00 AM
QUOTE(wang601 @ Mar 6 2010, 04:00 PM)
Hi all,
I'm having a problem after making the cuts. I'm still getting a connection on the points indicated in this pic using my multimeter. I made all the cuts using a Dremel and pretty sure there's no connections. Any help would be much appreciated
Here's my pcb http://i890.photobuc.../CIMG0397_1.jpg
I've also tested all points to ground and my multimeter says they are all connected to ground except point C. Point C is the only part that is isolated. The rest show a connection to ground
I'm guessing that shouldn't be the case. Here's the pic of what I'm talking about.http://i890.photobuc...IMG0397_2-1.jpg
Is it a dead short or are you getting a resistance reading? If it's a resistance reading it just might be your meter is sensitive or make sure you don't put the board on a conductive surface.
Post by: khull on March 07, 2010, 09:18:00 PM
QUOTE(igotwormz @ Mar 7 2010, 11:41 AM)
Is it a dead short or are you getting a resistance reading? If it's a resistance reading it just might be your meter is sensitive or make sure you don't put the board on a conductive surface.
and make sure you are not touching the exposed metal parts of the multimeter probe.
Post by: Froz on March 09, 2010, 09:05:00 PM
I believe I have it setup correctly form a hardware perspective. Had to install win98 sp3 instead of win7 because my win7 was in raid0 and jungleflasher couldn't find the drive. now however, it does see the drive but it keeps responding with 0xd0 when i do a intro/device id.
i have an asus p5b with intel ich8 sata controller.
any suggestions?
Post by: Froz on March 09, 2010, 11:08:00 PM
QUOTE(Froz @ Mar 10 2010, 05:05 AM)
Having a bit of difficulty.
I believe I have it setup correctly form a hardware perspective. Had to install win98 sp3 instead of win7 because my win7 was in raid0 and jungleflasher couldn't find the drive. now however, it does see the drive but it keeps responding with 0xd0 when i do a intro/device id.
i have an asus p5b with intel ich8 sata controller.
any suggestions?
it also appears that i can't see my drive at all unless the switch is in the off position. when it is in the on position the xbox (which i'm using to power the drive) just blinks green from the center.
Post by: HaloSlayer on March 11, 2010, 02:28:00 PM
I just went through with flashing a brand new system with a Lite-On, it was the 8###c model.
Well I followed the Jungleflasher tutorial, which is the same as this but with the 3.3v on the other switch position. According to Jungleflasher everything went perfect. Got a good looking Key and even flashed fine with a Verification OK at the end.
Now I resoldered the cuts, and verified everything ohmed out together and also made sure it wasn't shorted to ground.
Everything was going fine until I put the drive back into the Xbox. All I got was a blinking center light. After a few reboots I got an E64 or E65 error. Looking up E65 it says possible bad flash.
So, seeing how Jungleflasher has given me issues in the past with older Lite-On drives I copied the CFW.bin to a USB stick I have setup to flash under dos.
My question is, do I have to go back and re-setup the switch to just reflash it?? I tried to do my normal erase and flash but after the erase it wouldn't flash the drive.
So now I have a drive with no firmware on it. How do I go about reflashing it, either with dos or jungleflasher. I do have both the OFW and CFW that jungleflasher made.
NOTE: For the dos setup I have been using a pre-made USB stick that has pictures and step by step instructions. I havn't use dosflash or l-o-erase straight from the dos prompt myself.
NOTE2: Again I didn't have any issues using Jungleflasher this time because I followed the tutorial and removed my VIA drivers, now windows doesn't freeze up anymore.
A point in the write direction would be great.
Thanks again to everyone in the forums!!
Post by: syntaxerror329 on March 11, 2010, 03:04:00 PM
QUOTE(HaloSlayer @ Mar 11 2010, 04:28 PM)
My question is, do I have to go back and re-setup the switch to just reflash it?? I tried to do my normal erase and flash but after the erase it wouldn't flash the drive.
No you don't have to install the switch ever again!
You might find it simpler to try the dos32 apps. So you would use lite-on-erase and dosflash32 instead of l-o-erase and dosflash.
Something sure did go wrong. I don't think you could have flashed it wrong so something caused the LO circuit board to die. If you can't work it out then i have TONS of spare LO boards and i could sell you one preflashed for a very fair price.
Good luck,
Post by: HaloSlayer on February 03, 2020, 12:19:00 AM
When I first setup the switch and tried to power on the drive with my conection kit the red led didn't come on at first like normal. I then found one of my jumper wires was touching ground.
Once I cleaned up the connection and made sure nothing shorted to ground everything went fine. Since I dumped it fine after fixing my mistake I didn't think it hurt the pcb. Do you think this killed the pcb???
Thanks for the quick reply.
Post by: HaloSlayer on March 13, 2010, 12:19:00 AM
I re-flashed the drive using Jungleflasher since I couldn't get much to happen in dos.
I loaded my OFW.bin as source, it spoofed it to LT, and I flashed the drive again.
*Once I put the drive back into the xbox I get the center blinking light as well as the random E65 error. Also the drive doesn't seem to respond very well to eject commands from my remote. I never see the bootup animation.
I went back and re-flashed the drive with the OFW.bin as my target and told it not to spoof anything.
*I put the drive back into the xbox and it works perfectly as STOCK.
This should mean Jungleflasher did make the full dump correctly to my OFW.bin and that my drive PCB is still good, right?
My question now is what to do next?
-Is it possible Jungleflasher is using the wrong LT version for my drive? Should I try different ones as my target?
-Is my drive some new model? The label says (FW=8###c & HW=A0A2)
-Is there some kind of bug with the LT firmware?
-Could my PCB still have an issue that only effects the LT firmware?
Thank you for your time,
Post by: HaloSlayer on March 13, 2010, 01:23:00 AM
QUOTE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JungleFlasher 0.1.72 Beta (101)
Session Started Thu Mar 11 11:11:23 2010
This is a 32 bit process running on a 32 bit CPU
portio32.sys Driver Installed
portio32.sys Driver Started, thanks Schtrom !
Found 2 I/O Ports.
Found 2 Com Ports.
Found 9 windows drives A: C: D: E: F: G: H: I: J:
Found 1 CD/DVD drives E:
Sending Vendor Intro to port 0xC400
Status 0xD0
Re-sending Vendor Intro:
..
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Sending Device ID request to port 0xC400
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
Getting Status from port 0xC400
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Lite-On Dump file saved to J:\360 firmware\FULL-Lite-OFW.bin
Loading firmware from buffer
Drive key @ n/a ************REMOVED*************
Firmware Osig: [PLDS DG-16D2S 8385]
Firmware is: Stock
Key added to database
Auto-Loading firmware file D:\JungleFlasher v0.1.72 Beta (101)\firmware\ix-lt-838.bin
MD5 hash: 187ee5780d863922d49ec1d2ed0d9f48
Genuine iXtreme Lite-Touch
Drive key @ n/a 77777777777777777777777777777777
Firmware Osig: [PLDS DG-16D2S 8385]
Firmware is: iXtreme LT
Spoofing Target
DVD Key copied to target
Target is LT - ID strings not copied to Target
Serial data copied from Source to Target
Calibration data copied from Source to Target
Key database updated
Loading MTK_Flash source file
Target f/w saved as: J:\360 firmware\Lite_CFW-LT.bin
Getting Status from port 0xC400
SPi flash found with Status 0x72
Sending Chip Erase to Port 0xC400
Writing target buffer to flash
Writing Bank 0: ................
Writing Bank 1: ................
Writing Bank 2: ................
Writing Bank 3: ................
Flash Verification Test !
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Write verified OK !
Sending Vendor Outro to port 0xC400
This says "Target is LT - ID strings not copied to Target" ??????
Why would it do/say this? I let Jungleflasher do the automatic firmware load and spoof. I have all lite-on LT firmware files in the firmwares folder.
I know this is my issue now. My OFW.bin should have this data since it still works.
Now the question is do I try to manually spoof it or is Jungleflasher just using the wrong LT Firmware for my drive and I just need to manually select the target firmware I want it to use.
Sucks that I just noticed this, I am out of town now for the entire week and won't be able to try anything till I get back home.
Post by: syntaxerror329 on April 30, 2010, 09:23:00 AM
QUOTE(tvdang7 @ Apr 30 2010, 11:06 AM)
This method can work on the liteon 7xxx series correct? i just want to practice before going to the real deal since i can extract the key with my probe first in case i mess up.
You are very wise! Thats what i did when i was first practicing this new dump method.
All lite-on's can dumped with this method.
Good luck,
Post by: ken D. on May 01, 2010, 05:27:00 AM
Post by: dragon_unleashed on June 28, 2010, 04:51:00 AM
Guys please give me answers for this...
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on June 28, 2010, 11:50:00 AM
QUOTE(dragon_unleashed @ Jun 28 2010, 12:51 PM)
I dont understand why people need to use 18 or a 20ohm resistor cause i have modded more than 50 of these drives(83850c v2 & 93450v) and I always got the 72 status with 22ohm 1/4watt resistor.....?????
Guys please give me answers for this...
Taken from Team Xecuter Website:
QUOTE
It was discovered that a small number of Liteon drives would not dump the firmware with a 20 ohm resistor - but required an 18 Ohm or 22 Ohm resistor (Default should be set to 20 Ohms - this will work 99% of the time)
I don't know why it varies...I stick to 19ohm...Haven't had a single issue yet!
Post by: syntaxerror329 on June 28, 2010, 12:00:00 PM
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Jun 28 2010, 01:50 PM)
I don't know why it varies...I stick to 19ohm...Haven't had a single issue yet!
I don't get it either. I have done over 100 of these with my 22ohm resistor. Still using the same one as shown in my pictures even. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: iateshaggy on June 28, 2010, 05:30:00 PM
edit: i had one of those 22 ohm resistor that didn't work, put it on the multimeter and found it's actual value was 25 ohms. replaced it with a 22 ohm resistor w/ an actual 22 ohm resistance and still use it for those hard to reach places a vampire can't get to.
This post has been edited by iateshaggy: Jun 29 2010, 12:34 AM
Post by: Okari on February 02, 2020, 07:52:00 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on February 02, 2020, 08:05:00 PM
QUOTE(Okari @ Jul 2 2010, 10:52 PM)
Well I did on my first try, it read and write perfectly but now after I put everything back the drive is not respoding correctly. I push the open and dont do anything just the light blinking (sometimes) so I don't know what's wrong with it. I believe my cuts still open even I resolder 2 times. Sadly I don't do the Boxxdr, I didnt the MRA one. Any help?
Pictures would really help.
You really need a multimeter to test all your work and look for faults.
Did you remove the drive circuit board to do that hack? If so i hope you got all the wires back on in the correct spots.
At least you got your key. If you have to get a new drive or drive circuit board it wont be a big deal.
Post by: Okari on February 02, 2020, 08:11:00 PM
Post by: Okari on February 03, 2020, 11:46:00 AM
QUOTE(Okari @ Jul 2 2010, 11:11 PM)
Thanks for the fast respond, taking pictures of it right now.
(IMG:http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9955/boardhs.jpg)
(IMG:http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/6527/board2u.jpg)
Thats all that I use and solder back
Post by: syntaxerror329 on February 03, 2020, 12:21:00 PM
QUOTE(Okari @ Jul 3 2010, 02:46 PM)
Thats all that I use and solder back
What is that blob of solder middle-left of this picture ?
(IMG:http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9955/boardhs.jpg)
Post by: Okari on February 03, 2020, 12:35:00 PM
(IMG:http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6983/board3.jpg)
BTW, just wondering if the key can be spoofed into an old hitachi drive I have.
Well it goes into a 0021 now so seems is done for it, hope it can be spoofed into other old drive if not then need a new dvd board.
This post has been edited by Okari: Yesterday, 08:41 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on February 03, 2020, 02:06:00 PM
Of course hitachi mods are ban magnets so if you hope to use it with xbox live you really want to replace it with another lite-on. If its for offline use only then don't even bother to spoof it, just flash the new key. Spoofing is not required since dashboard v 2.0.8955
Post by: Okari on February 03, 2020, 02:19:00 PM
Plus I wonder if I can use my old backups since a friend says no that is gonna be auto-ban
This post has been edited by Okari: Yesterday, 10:20 PM
Post by: syntaxerror329 on February 03, 2020, 02:23:00 PM
QUOTE(Okari @ Jul 3 2010, 05:19 PM)
Ok I check and is a BenQ and i guess will be for offline use since I dont have xbox live gold in years.
Plus I wonder if I can use my old backups since a friend says no that is gonna be auto-ban
BenQ LT will play all backups even if they dont have proper stealth patching. You already sadi you are playing it offline so you have nothing to worry about in regards to banning.
Post by: Okari on February 03, 2020, 04:56:00 PM
Post by: ken D. on July 11, 2010, 08:02:00 PM
Post by: iateshaggy on July 11, 2010, 10:20:00 PM
QUOTE(moodcrush @ Jul 10 2010, 05:38 PM)
Hi All.
Well I attempted to do this but I could not get Jungleflasher or DosFlash to recognize the drive.
After struggling with it for awhile, I decided to just remove everything, patch the trace cuts and put it back together. Well, when I powered up my Xbox, the drive would not open. The green light on the power button would continuously flash. The drive didn't seem to be receiving power. I didn't check it with a multimeter.
Anyways, today, I decided to pull it back out and take a look at it. I removed all trace patches and cleaned it up best I could. I've attached a picture showing my butcher job. I slipped with the knife I was using and had to do a little repair. I ran a blade between the traces to make sure they were isolated. I know that it looks terrible but I do have continuity along all traces.
The problem I do see is that there is continuity between the blue and red pads.
I pretty much gouged out between the traces, I'm not sure why I am getting the continuity between these two traces.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks.
you are supposed to have continuity there. also, jf very often will not detect the drive, that is no problem, u just intro and go, it will work if you are on the right port. once repaired, if you have no shorts and everything is fixed, flashing green light is usually cuz you forgot to plug a cable back in or didn't plug it in enough.
Post by: moodcrush on July 12, 2010, 05:02:00 AM
Post by: moodcrush on July 12, 2010, 08:12:00 PM
Thanks iateshaggy, I needed to just 'Intro' and go. The drive was recognized and I was able to go through the steps to flash it. Before doing that, though, I pulled out my multimeter and went through all of the connections. No shorts, continuity where it should be except on the trace I nicked previously. It really doesn't take much to cut them. Once I repaired the trace, the rest was a piece of cake.
A couple of suggestions to anyone considering doing this. First, get the proper tools for the job. I should have just spent the $5 on an Xacto with a fine blade. Instead I used a bulky box cutter and was a little sloppy with it.
Second, try to get your hands on a multimeter. It only takes a minute to check your connections and can save you a ton of time overall.
Thanks to Boxxdr and an everyone who contributed to this thread.
Post by: iispyderii on July 13, 2010, 11:33:00 PM
Any ideas on the problem?
If I get a USB xtractor, do I need a connectivity kit for the drive power or can I just use my xbox power connector?
Post by: syntaxerror329 on July 14, 2010, 07:15:00 AM
QUOTE(iispyderii @ Jul 14 2010, 01:33 AM)
So I tried to flash my 74850c today with this method. I flashed my BenQ (banned) right before this so I know that worked and I hooked up my liteon (fully untouched) and it recognized it there too. However after adding all the wires and switches, the computer no longer is able to see the drive. I thought I check all the continuity good.
Any ideas on the problem?
If I get a USB xtractor, do I need a connectivity kit for the drive power or can I just use my xbox power connector?
You can still use the xbox as power if you wish to dump the key the serial method.
Post by: ken D. on July 19, 2010, 03:35:00 PM
This post has been edited by ken D.: Jul 19 2010, 10:52 PM
Post by: maumonde on July 19, 2010, 08:35:00 PM
Post by: iateshaggy on July 19, 2010, 08:56:00 PM
Post by: ken D. on July 20, 2010, 03:20:00 PM
UPDATE...here's an update guys...so I connectec my xbox to my tv...and I was on dashboard...my controller was connected...one green ring...but my power light is still blinking....but I'm in dashboard tried putting in a game and it keeps spitting out the tray? What do you guys think my porblem might be...do you think it's a grounding problem?
This post has been edited by ken D.: Jul 20 2010, 10:39 PM
Post by: 0perator on July 21, 2010, 08:05:00 PM
green blinking light rapid.
no recognition of drive
win7 64
driversigning disabled
jf admin mode
any1 know what to do now?
Post by: Drewd on August 05, 2010, 07:17:00 AM
My TOOLS:
Art-Scalpel
18 and/or 20 and/or 22 ohm 1/4 v resistor
patch wire
25 watt crappy shack soldering iron
silver solder w/ rosin core
flux (still not sure if I used this correctly)
de-soldering braid (best 7 bux I spent)
pci sata card w/ via 6421 chipset (not sure if this was necessary)
used xbox for power source
did not use a switch, did not use a multimeter
Check out the rest of my post, I imagine there are similarities among us...
Day 1, I initially had an electronics professional perform the soldering for the boxxdr method (for free, thanks brother in law!), but my drive would not recognize. I had a promise sata chipset running windows 7 32 bit and neither JF or dosflash32 would recognize my drive. I tried a 22 ohm resistor, and an 18 ohm resistor, still would not recognize.
Day 2, picked up a PCI Sata controller card, via 6421a chipset, JF and dosflash32 still did not recognize the drive. Tried a USB to SATA device (which I know now would never have worked) on 3 different computers, one running windows 7 64 bit, still not detected. Drivers updated/removed, not removed, etc.
Day 3, changed out the switch, from a toggle on off, to a three prong on/off slider switch... still not detected.
Day 4, removed all the solder wires, resistor, patched all the traces with wire, and admitted defeat... drive still worked for retail games.
Day 5, saw some pics regarding pad 101, and how the pad 101 should be soldered with the trace, to the patch wire, I wasn't sure this was done on my PCB, so I took the drive apart again, and sure enough, the pad 101 did not have any silicon removed from it, and the wire was only attached to the trace, it's possible my brother in law thought that scraping pad 101 from the pics was part of a sloppy solder job and didn't do it. Scraped clean half of pad 101, de-soldered all the previous work with the braid, re-soldered the patch cables, didn't use a switch (just use a clamp tweezer to hold the resistor and patch wire together)...
Hooked up the DVDROM ribbons, used the xbox to power the drive (plug in a/v cable), launched JF, performed intro, clicked yes on vendor prompt, pulled power for drive from xbox motherboard and reconnected it right away, performed intro again, released clamp tweezers (same as turning switch off) JF read the drive fine, wrote the drive fine.
I didn't see a drive show up in JF until the Outro step, after the flashing had completed.
The initial intro failing I think is what's throwing a lot of us off, just click yes and pull power / reconnect power and then check the status!
G'luck!
Post by: kaldi's apostle on August 14, 2010, 10:53:00 AM
I was wondering how the write behaves
1) I have a 93450C flashed with Ixtreme 1.1, if I want to reflash it then is the Erase with JF (or lite-on-erase) absolutely necessary or can I do directly a write?
2) Havent used JF to much in the past, is Dosflash 1.8 good to flash Lite-on 93xxx, any known problems??
Post by: kaldi's apostle on August 14, 2010, 12:18:00 PM
QUOTE(kaldi's apostle @ Aug 14 2010, 10:53 AM)
From the JF tutorial it seems that you can directly read the IXtreme LT 1.1 FW from a liteon drive.
I was wondering how the write behaves
1) I have a 93450C flashed with Ixtreme 1.1, if I want to reflash it then is the Erase with JF (or lite-on-erase) absolutely necessary or can I do directly a write?
2) Havent used JF to much in the past, is Dosflash 1.8 good to flash Lite-on 93xxx, any known problems??
Can't edit and need to clarify question 2, I am talking about dosflash32 1.8
3) is the Dos option not possible anymore?
TIA
Post by: howdy798 on August 22, 2010, 09:37:00 PM
QUOTE(Codymodd @ Jan 3 2010, 09:32 AM)
Here is the NEAR solder less patch i made for the Liteon drives. You still have to cut the traces of course and reconnect with solder after you dump the firmware but this cuts the soldering down to a minimum. The three wires that are soldered together on the patch go to pin holes on the circuit board. one point sets on the pin hole on the trace line before pin 101 spot the second sets after it to reconnect the line after the trace has been cut. the third is the bottom connection. The wire all by itself connects to pin 101. You can add a ground connection if you want just pick any ground pin hole and run a wire from it on the patch. I used syntaxerror329 picture of the circuit board to show where the pins on the patch go because i didnt have a clean board to take pics of i hope that was ok.
can anyone tell me please if this works right whit 94350, acoording to the poster codymodd it was tested whit 83850
Post by: hisui on September 05, 2010, 03:57:00 AM
A couple silly questions if you don't mind me asking
1) So does prepping the traces involve basically sanding down the PCB to have them exposed? Is there anything similar to LENLINE brush (hopefully something more readily available locally in the US) to achieve the same effect?
2) From the pics, I take it the ground part (as in your wording that says "prep the traces and gnd") refers to the extra bits of the board surrounding the traces above and below? Why exactly does it need to be prepped alongside the traces when I don't see anything being connected to it? I could be (and most likely) totally off base here, feel free to correct me
3) Without a device like ck3 lite or pro, how are you powering the drive disconnected from the console? Are you using the console to do it? I must admit I feel a bit nervous about the rumors about the consoles detecting this practice and banning you subsequently; don't know enough if there is any truth to it.
Thanks in advance, hopefully I will get to work on it right away sometime tomorrow
To be sure, I will re-read this article and the relevant sections of the JF tutorial a few more times for a good measure. Any other caveats I should be aware of?Post by: kaldi's apostle on September 05, 2010, 03:34:00 PM
Is it even required to reinstall the board for the extraction of the original fw? or can we simply leave it disconnected from the flat cables and the power control wires (y y w w r b )?
thks
Post by: cakes227 on September 13, 2010, 08:20:00 PM
edit: Just realized the guy above me asked the same question. Also, the guy that boxxdr refered for the lenline brush did not answere his e-mail, anybody else know of a place to get them? I searched radio shack and ebay and came up empty.
Post by: Dark Mod on September 13, 2010, 09:33:00 PM
QUOTE(cakes227 @ Sep 13 2010, 10:20 PM)
Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but do the ribon cables and such need to be attached from the board to the drive when you are reading/writing?
edit: Just realized the guy above me asked the same question. Also, the guy that boxxdr refered for the lenline brush did not answered his e-mail, anybody else know of a place to get them? I searched radio shack and ebay and came up empty.
you don't really need a lenline brush....it is just an option, simply use an xacto knife or razor blade to make a small scrape thru the green laminate to access the copper trace
Post by: cakes227 on September 14, 2010, 07:32:00 AM
Post by: hisui on September 17, 2010, 04:39:00 AM
Post by: Buzzcut on September 17, 2010, 05:49:00 AM
2) For the boxddr method you need to make and break a contact to GND (using a switch/manually hold then release/pliers to cut the connection). There are lots of Ground's available e.g. use the Ground on the PCB and scrape away some of the coating, use one of the legs on the PCB power connector (like is used on the LT switch).
3) I use the console to power all my flashes and have piggybacked 2 extra wires coming from the Xbox DVD connector 3.3V and GND to make a homemade vampire spear. There is (was) a flag set if you power on the box without the drive connected but I use an old RROD one so it's not an issue.
If you want to spend money then buy a CK3 but you really don't need to spend a penny.
Post by: hisui on September 18, 2010, 10:56:00 PM
Post by: modeezy on September 19, 2010, 10:41:00 PM
I've tried 10,15,20,22,25 ohm resistors and here's what I get. (all are 1/4 or 1/2 watt)
on PC1 (intel ich10 chipset) jungle flasher gives me status 0x80
on PC2 (nforce2 with silicon image 311 sata controller) jungleflasher gives me status 0x51/0xD1
JF see's the drive when the switch is off (on both pcs but cant intro) and it doesnt see it at all when the switch is on.
When I have the switch off, the xbox lights are normal. When I switch them on, they flash green. (while connected to the pc)
I've checked the connections with a multimeter several times now to make sure everything is connected properly and not grounding out.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Post by: Dark Mod on September 19, 2010, 11:41:00 PM
QUOTE(modeezy @ Sep 20 2010, 12:41 AM)
been trying to get this liteon flashed for several days now..
I've tried 10,15,20,22,25 ohm resistors and here's what I get. (all are 1/4 or 1/2 watt)
on PC1 (intel ich10 chipset) jungle flasher gives me status 0x80
on PC2 (nforce2 with silicon image 311 sata controller) jungleflasher gives me status 0x51/0xD1
JF see's the drive when the switch is off (on both pcs but cant intro) and it doesnt see it at all when the switch is on.
When I have the switch off, the xbox lights are normal. When I switch them on, they flash green. (while connected to the pc)
I've checked the connections with a multimeter several times now to make sure everything is connected properly and not grounding out.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ensure all the three spots to cut is perfect and ensure it have no continuity between the cuts
Post by: Dark Mod on September 20, 2010, 11:17:00 AM
QUOTE(opencube @ Sep 20 2010, 01:12 PM)
should the dashboard be updated on the 360 to the latest version before flashing the drive with ixtreme fw?
not really.....any new game you put in will update console
Post by: opencube on September 20, 2010, 04:55:00 PM
The liteon is connected to the sata port on the end of the pci card inside the machine.
VIA drivers not installed
Post by: Buzzcut on September 21, 2010, 01:39:00 AM
Disabling is very different from not installing at all...you need a error status 39 in Device manager, not installing anything will give you 28
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 02:13:00 AM
QUOTE(Buzzcut @ Sep 21 2010, 08:39 AM)
Install drivers then disable as per the instructions in the JF guide.
Disabling is very different from not installing at all...you need a error status 39 in Device manager, not installing anything will give you 28
Pretty sure they have been installed and uninstalled in the past as I have done the easier liteons samsungs and benq in the past
Post by: Buzzcut on September 21, 2010, 02:19:00 AM
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 02:29:00 AM
QUOTE(Buzzcut @ Sep 21 2010, 09:19 AM)
Ok..fair enough. What's the EXACT process you're following?
Did the Soldering and Cuts (havent got multimeter unfortunately)
Connected the circuit board back to the DVD drive with its three ribbon cables.
Hooked up the Liteon to the CK3 for power and SATA cable to the VIA PCI Card (Connected to the SATA port on the card innermost inside the computer i.e on the opposite end to the one that is available from the outside of the pc when fitted)
The switch that was soldered to the board is in the ON position.
Power on CK3 to send power to the drive.
Load up DosFlash
DosFlash cycles through drives giving messages which I click 'Cancel'
DOSFlash finishes its scan of drives and settles on my Internal PC DVD Drive.
From the port drop down I then choose a port (0000x15 from what I can remember).
This then shows up as LIteon modelin DosFlash but dosnt have any chipset info available.
Thats as far as I got.
Hope that helps?
I know that in the past I have had to use another SATA port on the PCI card to do other models of drives...didnt know if that was an issue or not this time round?
followed this video guide...
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 03:13:00 AM
Im not sure if this is an issue?
Heres another pic i took the other day before I attempted this hack.
i dont know how to identify the Winbond chip so thought this image may help?
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Post by: Buzzcut on September 21, 2010, 03:43:00 AM
Make sure you've got the correct SATA port connected, Hit Intro then power on, you should see your flash properties like in the vid. Flick the switch and hit Read...this is the same as in the vid where the probe is tilted to break the p101 contact. I have to do things slightly different, when I power on I don't get the full flash properties all that happens is the status changes to 0x72, as soon as I see this I cut the GND and only then do I get it. If I leave the GND connected I get an error about "returning the switch to the normal position"
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 04:01:00 AM
QUOTE(Buzzcut @ Sep 21 2010, 10:43 AM)
Hey..I use a similar Hacking Jungle method but use the same probe as them here. When they talk about the probe points all this is doing is connecting the 3.3v pin on the probe to the lower trace and GND on theh probe to pad101, you should be in exactly the same position with your switch set to ON as at 1.45 i.e. your 3.3v line and GND are both connected.
Make sure you've got the correct SATA port connected, Hit Intro then power on, you should see your flash properties like in the vid. Flick the switch and hit Read...this is the same as in the vid where the probe is tilted to break the p101 contact. I have to do things slightly different, when I power on I don't get the full flash properties all that happens is the status changes to 0x72, as soon as I see this I cut the GND and only then do I get it. If I leave the GND connected I get an error about "returning the switch to the normal position"
Thanks for the info.
So best to use Jungleflasher rather than Dosflash then?
Also at 1:55 just after the guy resends the command, he says he switches on and off.... is that the soldered switch I have applied to the circuit board or is that power from the ck3?
Ill give this a go around lunchtime today, and will post back further update. thanks for your help its very much appreciated.
Post by: Buzzcut on September 21, 2010, 04:15:00 AM
Cut the power and turn back on...not the switch (no idea why he says "on then off"...maybe it's "on after off", either way you should end up with having power to the drive). You can either have the drive off and power it on or else have the drive on and just cycle the power as he does. I always have it turned off then just power on after the Intro, dunno why, just works for me.
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 07:09:00 AM
I did the following...
1) Turned on CK3 power to Liteon
2) Loaded Jungleflasher
3) Jungleflasher picked up the drive properties OK.
These are:
Vendor: PLDS
Name: DG-16D2S
F/W Rev: 9345
Reserved: a long line of numbers and letters (not posting them here in case they are serials?!)
4) Clicked Intro / Device ID button, got the pop up window, clicked OK, turned CK3 Power off then on quickly, but JF continued to Re-Send Vendor Intro.
I did it also the way you tried where the drive isnt powered on until after you ok the pop up message when pressing Intro Device ID button.
I have pasted 2 logs below of some attempts.
----------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JungleFlasher 0.1.73 Beta (108)
Session Started Tue Sep 21 13:45:15 2010
This is a 32 bit process running on 2 x 32 bit CPUs
portio32.sys Driver Installed
portio32.sys Driver Started, thanks Schtrom !
Found 4 I/O Ports.
Found 1 Com Ports.
Found 5 windows drives A: C: D: E: F:
Found 0 CD/DVD drives
Sending Vendor Intro to port 0x1150
Status 0x51
Re-sending Vendor Intro:
.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 07:53:00 AM
i had been having the soldered switch in the wrong position.
I Have to have it in the off position so that JF could pick up the chip data, then turn the switch to on (towards the resistor) to get it to read the drive key.
So all good so far...but i get a warning saying that there is missing drive data... i clicked proceed and was then offerent to repair the serial from drive barcodes... what do i do?
Thanks
Post by: Buzzcut on September 21, 2010, 08:01:00 AM
You've then got a choice, you can disconnect everything, repair the traces then flash as any other Liteon but you CAN Write the CFW straight back after you Read. I always save the new LT firmware, repair then write.
Glad to hear it's finally going smooth...
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 08:35:00 AM
Got the Key, and saved it, and also saved the spoofed fw too.
With the Soldered switch set to OFF (away from the resistor) I pressed LiteOn Erase
Then used Write to write the CFW to the drive, howver it fails verification.
What am i doing wrong here?
ADo i need to power cycle or toggle the soldered switch at all?
Thanks
Post by: Buzzcut on September 21, 2010, 08:50:00 AM
Repair your cuts and do the following.
Connect drive and power it, open JF, load your cfw, choose correct port and drive properties should appear. Click Erase twice, recycle power and you should get into Vendor mode...click Write. Done.
Don't worry if you don't get any drive properties as you may have erased the drive with your previous attempt. If this is the case then just hit Intro and recycle power, you should get Flash properties now...click Write. Done.
EDIT - Try the SATA port on the side of the VIA card. I don't use the one furthest in on the back of the card.
Post by: opencube on September 21, 2010, 12:54:00 PM
lol
thanks for all your help, its been much appreciated!
Post by: yahooman123 on September 24, 2010, 08:00:00 PM
I thought I soldered everything perfectly. When I hooked up the drive to the power, it would not start. The xbox would flash green eject light, and jungleflasher was not detecting any drives with a FF error. The main chip on the drive was not getting warm.
Afterward I decided to desolder and restore the drive to normal. I soldered a wire across the top trace (above pad 101), and tried again. This time the power was going through but pad101 started shooting fireworks. The hole got fried and now looks black as sun dried shit.
I need to know if pad101 actually needs to be connected to the trace (between the jump) because I noticed it is in the pictures. I'm assuming pad101 is the point where power first starts circulating through the whole PCB, and on my first try I did not solder the pad101 hole to the trace, therefore the drive was powerless?
Also, when it is time to patch the traces, the trace no longer needs to be connected to pad 101, right?
A reply would be helpful. Thank you.
This post has been edited by yahooman123: Sep 25 2010, 03:03 AM
Post by: Dark Mod on September 24, 2010, 08:05:00 PM
QUOTE(yahooman123 @ Sep 24 2010, 10:00 PM)
I just fried my 93450c. Can someone clear some things up for me?
I thought I soldered everything perfectly. When I hooked up the drive to the power, it would not start. The xbox would flash green eject light, and jungleflasher was not detecting any drives with a FF error. The main chip on the drive was not getting warm.
Afterward I decided to desolder and restore the drive to normal. I soldered a wire across the top trace (above pad 101), and tried again. This time the power was going through but pad101 started shooting fireworks. The hole got fried and now looks black as sun dried shit.
I need to know if pad101 actually needs to be connected to the trace (between the jump) because I noticed it is in the pictures. I'm assuming pad101 is the point where power first starts circulating through the whole PCB, and on my first try I did not solder the pad101 hole to the trace.
Also, when it is time to patch the traces, the trace no longer needs to be connected to pad 101, right?
HOLY LITEON BATMAN.....you assassinated a good drive mate.....you have the drivekey or not?
Post by: yahooman123 on September 25, 2010, 01:52:00 PM
Post by: ravendrow on September 25, 2010, 02:26:00 PM
QUOTE(Suicyde @ Dec 16 2009, 01:22 PM)
Having real difficulty getting a "clean" cut on the traces - and a dremel tool isn't an option at the minute. I've been using a small flat head screwdriver, and had very limited success, and not a very good result!
Any tips on a particular tool to use?
Thanks in advance -
Cyde
dude! WTF!! seriously go and get a box cutter stop using the screwdriver . why would you even try?? razors are cheap and i mean CHEAP and they cut threw the traces like butter
Post by: yahooman123 on October 05, 2010, 09:13:00 PM
Post by: jim168 on February 02, 2020, 07:04:00 PM
Post by: Sawks on November 20, 2010, 08:03:00 AM
i was told to resolder the traces and erase liteon wit JF
I resoldered the traces but now my drive ejects fast and seems to smell from the eject motor or something
when i Tried to erase i got an 0xF2 device intro failed what do i do or what have i done it is a friends xbox and i hope its ok
I tried to power on the xbox and connect to tv boxstill works but i cant eject drive have i bricked the drive?
Post by: Sawks on November 20, 2010, 06:07:00 PM
QUOTE(Sawks @ Nov 20 2010, 04:03 PM)
I have a liteon 93450c drive i had some minor dramas getting the drive to be recognised in JF but finally i got it to read after discovering a bit of solder was touching the board and earthing. I got to read the drive and save the firmware when i tried to write the ixtreme lt 934 i got an error when it checked
i was told to resolder the traces and erase liteon wit JF
I resoldered the traces but now my drive ejects fast and seems to smell from the eject motor or something
when i Tried to erase i got an 0xF2 device intro failed what do i do or what have i done it is a friends xbox and i hope its ok
I tried to power on the xbox and connect to tv boxstill works but i cant eject drive have i bricked the drive?
I have resoldered all traces and i have checked with a mutimeter all good now I get a 0x7F
i put power cable partly in upside down and heard a click now i think its gone
Post by: Andy_K on November 23, 2010, 02:23:00 PM
I've done a full dump of my 93450c successfully... unfortunately i then screwed the drive repairing the traces. I have since bought an 83450c v1 drive and am wishing to flash with the newly released LT+. However, would anyone be able to tell me which version of firmware I use, i.e. 83450c (because that's the drive version) or 93450c (because that's what it will be replacing in the brand new Elite?
Cheers Guys!!!
Post by: Buzzcut on November 23, 2010, 02:46:00 PM
QUOTE(Andy_K @ Nov 23 2010, 09:23 PM)
which version of firmware I use?
The same as your original box. All Liteon boards are the same apart from the firmware so you'll be fine flashing between versions. Just ignore any warnings when you overwrite with the new firmware.
Post by: ruben182 on November 27, 2010, 09:43:00 AM
I used it with 22ohm.
But today I got 2 liteon 74850c drives with LT and the people lost their key.
I understand I can't read it with the spear, only MRA.
So I did the same thing. Cut the traces, checked it with a multimeter.
Made the necessary bridges and placed the switch.
Jungleflasher recognizes the drive as a liteon.
But when I do intro I ALWAYS get the 0x51 (or 0x52) status.
I tried all the different timings, the exact same steps that are described here, but always the same status.
I can flash Hitachi, Samsung, BenQ and LiteOn without problems on the same pc.
When I do a liteon erase on a drive where I already have the key, I receive a correct 0x72 status.
I tried using 20ohm and 18ohm.
I even used the Xecuter LT switch by wiring them to the correct point.
Still 0x51 !!
The VIA drivers are installed, deleted and disabled.
Using Windows 7 32bit.
If someone is interested I can take a picture of the connections, but I'm 100% sure everything is connected correct. I have checked it, double checked it, triple checked it,...
The drive also works perfect when I reconnect the broken traces.
Other ideas?
Post by: willthiswork89 on November 28, 2010, 03:26:00 PM
Post by: Demonsc on December 01, 2010, 08:20:00 PM
The tools used to make the board shinier
The switch used
etc...
And i site i can order all the stuff at
Post by: Takashi on December 01, 2010, 08:31:00 PM
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=698256
as far as sites, google works best
Post by: totoz on December 02, 2010, 06:22:00 AM
QUOTE(ruben182 @ Nov 27 2010, 05:43 PM)
Jungleflasher recognizes the drive as a liteon.
But when I do intro I ALWAYS get the 0x51 (or 0x52) status.
I tried all the different timings, the exact same steps that are described here, but always the same status.
Other ideas?
had the same problem, liteon with LT without the key (and also with the key)
solution: when it's time to remove power from liteon, don't use the on/off on ck3, but remove manually the power from the BACK of the drive and quickly re-plug the cable (thanks djnaff on efnet)
This post has been edited by totoz: Dec 2 2010, 02:37 PM
Post by: offtopic on December 09, 2010, 08:45:00 AM
I have question about reflash to iX LT+ liteon 93450c a0a2 with bricked pad 101(repaired - work ok). What i must solder/desolder?? I have probe2.
Post by: swq on December 09, 2010, 09:49:00 AM
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Post by: Takashi on December 09, 2010, 01:23:00 PM
QUOTE(offtopic @ Dec 9 2010, 10:45 AM)
Hello
I have question about reflash to iX LT+ liteon 93450c a0a2 with bricked pad 101(repaired - work ok).
Wow~!
These pics are going to my collection of roflz!
Seriously though, that's some of the scariest work i've seen so far,
I don't even know what to say!
There's no need to resolder anything if you have the old dumps,
just erase then flash new cfw.
Post by: totoz on December 09, 2010, 02:47:00 PM
QUOTE(bucky006 @ Dec 6 2010, 03:19 PM)
Hi,
Or can I just flash my drive once I've retreived my key, and then remove and repair the fix.
Regards
yes u can
Post by: xmstree on December 11, 2010, 10:07:00 PM
Does anyone know why this method isn't in the jungle flasher tutorial? Only the more difficult original MRA hack is documented. This boxxdr method has been known for a long time now.
Has anyone tried this method without using solder? In theory you could just electrical tape the wires to the traces. Maybe that doesn't provide a very reliable connection - however it only needs to last a few minutes. I guess the repair job should be done with solder though.
Post by: swq on December 12, 2010, 11:24:00 AM
QUOTE(swq @ Dec 10 2010, 12:49 AM)
Hi9 guys... I'm nt sure why i can't get to 0x72.. intro failed!! why!! I'm i doin something wrong..
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Anyone pls can answer me... wad am i doin wrong here... i have probev2 still can't flash..
Post by: Rock22 on December 12, 2010, 03:12:00 PM
here:
i exactly did what you said at the frist post .but still i have problem with cutting..
i exactly cut where you showed at the pictures but when i check the cuts with "ohm meter"still there is connection between cuts..i dont know why........!!!! i am sure i did the cuts well (deep enough)...
and another things is...seems its differnt where you cut..(i mean on the line which you showed) look at this picture:
after cutting where you showed ..still there is connection between number 1 and 2
so i cut blue position.....but there is connection between number 3 and 1.. and there is no connection between number 3 and 2...
i am so confusedsomeone tell me ..after cutting..shouldint be any connection? what is my mistake??
please help me with this problem..its been 1 week i am looking for answer........
Post by: anktho3 on December 14, 2010, 03:16:00 AM
I thought I knew what I was doing then I figured out I had FW: 93450C and that I had to use the Boxxdr method to get a firmware dump. lol
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Post by: Takashi on December 14, 2010, 04:11:00 AM
QUOTE(Rock22 @ Dec 12 2010, 05:12 PM)
so i cut blue position....
Why cut blue line?
no need to cut that, only 3 cuts in total, like the OP shows.
Post by: Rock22 on December 14, 2010, 02:03:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 14 2010, 12:11 PM)
Why cut blue line?
no need to cut that, only 3 cuts in total, like the OP shows.
yeh..i know that but as i said , after i cut like OP there was connection between them so i managed to cut another place (blue)...i dont know why there is still connection between number 1 and 2???
i just wana know if its okay!! should be connection between number 1 and 2 after cutting?
Post by: Takashi on December 14, 2010, 04:58:00 PM
Post by: blackopsftw on December 14, 2010, 05:27:00 PM
Post by: swq on December 15, 2010, 12:33:00 AM
QUOTE(Johnny HugeButt @ Dec 14 2010, 07:29 PM)
Shouldnt you cut some traces and add a resistor + switch?
JH
I cut all traces already... I have probev2.. Still need resistor + switch??
Post by: Johnny HugeButt on December 15, 2010, 08:08:00 AM
QUOTE(swq @ Dec 15 2010, 08:33 AM)
I cut all traces already... I have probev2.. Still need resistor + switch??
Ah i see now you cut the trace right above the via. Missed that the 1st time i checked :-)
Anyway, if your cuts are clean and you have the V2 CK3 probe you should be able to dump the fw without the resistor + switch.
check this
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53897
Their own tutorial
JH
This post has been edited by Johnny HugeButt: Dec 15 2010, 04:10 PM
Post by: Rock22 on December 17, 2010, 09:28:00 AM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 15 2010, 12:58 AM)
What's the reading on your multi?
i use jungle flasher... after cutting like how i said before, it says "failed" .... it doesnt go to "vendor mode"..
someone told be it better to use 15 OHM RESISTANCE !!!!!! what do you think?
its been to long i am workin on it... i think its better to leave it away....
i really need to know if there should be connection after cuttin???? i think it should ..because The board is "two side board"
maybe on the other side between the cuts , still, there is connection!!!!!! Post by: h04ever on December 17, 2010, 02:28:00 PM
Stay tuned!
Post by: h04ever on December 18, 2010, 02:58:00 AM
CODE
- read/write/erase 9504 (Lite-On SLIM)
- complete dump 9504 and 0225
- now working on WRITE and ERASE for 0255
- complete dump 9504 and 0225
- now working on WRITE and ERASE for 0255
PM me for testing!
This post has been edited by h04ever: Dec 18 2010, 11:04 AM
Post by: Takashi on December 18, 2010, 04:18:00 AM
Post by: maceman47 on December 20, 2010, 07:04:00 PM
i cut the traces as normal and connected wires but when i connect to jf it does not recognise drive and wont intro (without recognising drive) either. i was worried so i repaired traces and removed wires but still nothing, now the drive wont even eject or spin and the laser isnt coming on.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
i havent got the key. i have spare drives so that isnt a problem i just need the key
edit: drive is flashed with lt+ (not by me ) dont have key
This post has been edited by maceman47: Dec 21 2010, 03:05 AM
Post by: nealbert on December 29, 2010, 11:31:00 PM
I have checked my cut traces they seem correct.
The JF guide says to remove power to the drive.. I have tried turning off the xbox and also just removing the power cable from the drive itself both with the same outcome..
any input would be extremely helpful.
Post by: TopDawg69 on January 10, 2011, 09:53:00 AM
Post by: cratos1981 on April 27, 2011, 04:00:00 AM
The question is. After make the backup of the entire firmware of the drive with the mra hack, i just have to remove the jumpers, repair the cut traces, close the drive, conect the drive again to the pc and just flashed?
Post by: Buzzcut on April 27, 2011, 06:01:00 AM
QUOTE(cratos1981 @ Apr 27 2011, 11:00 AM)
i just have to remove the jumpers, repair the cut traces, close the drive, conect the drive again to the pc and just flashed?
Correct.
Post by: totoz on April 27, 2011, 07:22:00 AM
QUOTE(Buzzcut @ Apr 27 2011, 01:01 PM)
Correct.
I erased and flashed the moment after I dumped the fw. (and then resoldered)
now I use Pmt method
Post by: cratos1981 on April 28, 2011, 09:22:00 PM
Post by: totoz on September 15, 2011, 03:58:00 AM
Post by: Kurt Hectic on September 29, 2011, 03:08:00 PM
method: trace cutting, powering from X360. No additional tools available.
No, please. Don't stop reading this post when I'll write this: I cannot complete "Intro/Device ID" part - I'm stuck at 0x51.
Drive: "fat" Liteon 9340c, LT 1.1. Trying to get a key from it.
Connected on "off" position - it shows up in JF. Connected while "on" - it does not. Going as guided by the JF tutorial - getting the drive to show up in JF, then power down, switch to on and then go with the "Intro/Device ID" - no results. In shows 0x80 for a short while and then goes to 0x51 and stays that way.
My brain is melting from reading and reading (including this topic, but not all of its posts).
I do exactly as in JungleFlasher tutorial. I tried cycling power by Xbox power button or by manually removing the cord from the mainboard.
DONE:
- Re-check cuts and connections
- solder 18 instead 22 resistor
- try many times, different timings (no exact specified in JF tutorial)
My questions:
1. - is it possible I've encoutered a drive that MUST be done using additional tools and not MRA? Are there any "problematic" drives? Anyone seen such thing?
That exact drive was previously flashed by someone. Maybe there is still some remaining of it preventing me from succeeding?
I've done this method once - and had no problem. But this time... I lost a day and am still in the dark.
2. Can I freely switch the "ON/OFF" switch when the liteon is powered on? Isn't it dangerous?
3. Maybe I should go lower with the resistor? 22 and 18 didn't work. Maybe 15 will? Someone said it's not safe going below 16...
4. If it fails - buying a x360pro+probe v3 is the only way besides MRA, there is nothing cheaper, am I correct?