Post by: Xbox-Scene on December 01, 2009, 07:27:00 PM
iXtreme v1.6 for Liteon 83V2 and 93450 - Better Dumping Method Posted by XanTium | December 1 21:27 EST | News Category: Xbox360 |
| carranzafp/Maximus released a modified version of the Lite-On iXtreme v1.6 to work with the 83850-v2 and 93450 drives: Quote Download: n/a (might be illegal under DMCA/EUCD) News-Source: carranzafp on XBH In related news, MRA released a new and better method to dump/read those Lite-On 83850-v2 and 93450 drives: Quote News-Source: MRA on XBH |
Post by: sami8519 on December 01, 2009, 07:36:00 PM
Post by: Ranger72 on December 01, 2009, 07:43:00 PM
Post by: OliSykesIsPro on December 01, 2009, 07:53:00 PM
Post by: GOTitCUZiMODDED on December 01, 2009, 07:53:00 PM
Post by: HyperUK on December 01, 2009, 08:03:00 PM
If so could people not post them and hex edit out their key so others could revert their flashed drives back to stock.
Post by: eyric101 on December 01, 2009, 08:10:00 PM
Post by: Ranger72 on December 01, 2009, 08:33:00 PM
QUOTE(HyperUK @ Dec 1 2009, 10:03 PM) 
So am I right in thinking people have full dumps of the original LiteOn firmware now unlike before when you could only get dummys?
If so could people not post them and hex edit out their key so others could revert their flashed drives back to stock.
There is absolutely ZERO reason to flash back to stock. If the console has EVER had 1 backup loaded on the console the risk has already been put into play. Flashing back to stock will do NOTHING to prevent a ban if you have already been flagged for one (even if you haven't logged on Live lately)
Best bet is to stay off Live and wait until LT firmware comes out. It will not lesson your risk for a ban that you have already put yourself in but it is better than nothing.
I have already seen reports from people who have stayed off Live until recently and now flashed stock firmware back to their Liteons only to go on Live and get banned right away.
Post by: UnnA^ on December 01, 2009, 08:45:00 PM
Post by: Ranger72 on December 01, 2009, 08:53:00 PM
QUOTE(UnnA^ @ Dec 1 2009, 10:45 PM)
That not the reason we want to go back to stock......I want to go and stay legit.
Then flash LT and never play a backup. LT will be almost full stock retail firmware.
Post by: m4sterchi3f on December 01, 2009, 09:21:00 PM
QUOTE(eyric101 @ Dec 1 2009, 10:10 PM)
Sorry if this sounds noobish, but this diagram has you cutting two traces? I'm not sure that is better then a little epoxy removal and lifting a pin.
Exactly what I was thinking when I read this. Not sure if this could be classified as better unless it is more reliable and/or easier. But then again, I don't have a 83V2 or 93450 drive to test out. Good work though on figuring this out.
Post by: Takashi on December 01, 2009, 09:26:00 PM
THANK YOU!!!!!
Post by: UnnA^ on December 01, 2009, 09:45:00 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 01, 2009, 10:12:00 PM
Post by: mksoftware on December 01, 2009, 10:48:00 PM
Post by: thugnasty101 on December 01, 2009, 11:03:00 PM
2. when it says "cut" in the diagram what does that exactly mean? wouldn't that ruin the drive?
Post by: Takashi on December 01, 2009, 11:09:00 PM
Post by: kevc510 on December 02, 2009, 01:20:00 AM
QUOTE(thugnasty101 @ Dec 1 2009, 10:03 PM) 
1. can you use this on 74850c?
2. when it says "cut" in the diagram what does that exactly mean? wouldn't that ruin the drive?
this should work for all liteon drives...
after you do this procedure and get your dump, you need to repair the cut traces.
this method is much better than melting the epoxy and lifting pins
Post by: d4m4n on December 02, 2009, 03:00:00 AM
Or maybe the best solution is to get the 3.3V and GND from the cable connecting to CON1. Then you can skip soldering two point.
I will mod many consoles so I try to minimize the work.
Post by: iateshaggy on December 02, 2009, 03:29:00 AM
Post by: sparky2k1 on December 02, 2009, 04:33:00 AM
BUT pin lifting has been mentioned and may be a little tidier and easier for some (myself included). Are there any tip/hints or a possible quick diagramme of which pin etc?
Post by: kiwimods on December 02, 2009, 05:37:00 AM
QUOTE(sparky2k1 @ Dec 3 2009, 12:33 AM)
Looks fine
BUT pin lifting has been mentioned and may be a little tidier and easier for some (myself included). Are there any tip/hints or a possible quick diagramme of which pin etc?its next to imposible to stuff up the soldering underneath, with method described, but if you do stuff it up you could lift pin 101 and just earth that if you have cut the traces and joined the mentioned wire. pin lifint is alright but harder to set back down to get the drive functional again.
Post by: sparky2k1 on December 02, 2009, 05:45:00 AM
QUOTE(kiwimods @ Dec 2 2009, 12:37 PM)
its next to imposible to stuff up the soldering underneath, with method described, but if you do stuff it up you could lift pin 101 and just earth that if you have cut the traces and joined the mentioned wire. pin lifint is alright but harder to set back down to get the drive functional again.
Cheers mate, I'll be track cutting then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Ive seen and worked on the pins and yes, to reseat one would be more difficult.
Post by: nordeq on December 02, 2009, 06:16:00 AM
Thx
Post by: Littlejonny is back on December 02, 2009, 06:28:00 AM
Mod = potential ban
-----------------------
simple
Post by: Grim187 on December 02, 2009, 06:43:00 AM
waiting for a way that works (for me) to get the key...
Post by: T3XA5360R3B3L on December 02, 2009, 07:29:00 AM
QUOTE(sparky2k1 @ Dec 2 2009, 05:33 AM)
Looks fine
BUT pin lifting has been mentioned and may be a little tidier and easier for some (myself included). Are there any tip/hints or a possible quick diagramme of which pin etc?unless you're using a fucking butter knife to cut traces and a 200W soldering gun to do the soldering I don't think you can mess up the second method that much..
then again I'm a veteran of SMT (surface mount technology) soldering and have the ultrasonic powered soldering iron and the other tools to do the work.. if you can't do it or don't want to do it, PM me and I'll do it for ya for a reasonable price..
Post by: le4fy on December 02, 2009, 09:06:00 AM
Thx
Post by: DeadlyRox on December 02, 2009, 09:43:00 AM
QUOTE(thugnasty101 @ Dec 2 2009, 02:03 AM)
1. can you use this on 74850c?
2. when it says "cut" in the diagram what does that exactly mean? wouldn't that ruin the drive?
This photo is from MRA, hes the owner of it
(IMG:http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6771/viam.jpg)
This post has been edited by DeadlyRox: Dec 2 2009, 05:44 PM
Post by: jokerbrazil on December 02, 2009, 12:51:00 PM
I did as the image + 22ohm resistor etc.. ( Ck3tool + Dosflash32 V1.8 ) Read the firmware but i'v got a problem.
The orig.bin extracted dont open on Jungle flash 1.67 neither the hacked ix1.6
Orig.bin extracted shows ff ff ff on Hexadecimal. But the hacked seems ok.
The drive still ok ( i'v made stock traces again on PCB and the drive is working. )
Anyone has some idea ??
JOKEr
Post by: Ranger72 on December 02, 2009, 02:14:00 PM
QUOTE(jokerbrazil @ Dec 2 2009, 02:51 PM)
Hello there.
I did as the image + 22ohm resistor etc.. ( Ck3tool + Dosflash32 V1.8 ) Read the firmware but i'v got a problem.
The orig.bin extracted dont open on Jungle flash 1.67 neither the hacked ix1.6
Orig.bin extracted shows ff ff ff on Hexadecimal. But the hacked seems ok.
The drive still ok ( i'v made stock traces again on PCB and the drive is working. )
Anyone has some idea ??
JOKEr
you have to open the firmware as TARGET and NOT source.
Post by: _MRA_ on December 02, 2009, 05:21:00 PM
QUOTE(jokerbrazil @ Dec 2 2009, 08:51 PM) 
Hello there.
I did as the image + 22ohm resistor etc.. ( Ck3tool + Dosflash32 V1.8 ) Read the firmware but i'v got a problem.
The orig.bin extracted dont open on Jungle flash 1.67 neither the hacked ix1.6
Orig.bin extracted shows ff ff ff on Hexadecimal. But the hacked seems ok.
The drive still ok ( i'v made stock traces again on PCB and the drive is working. )
Anyone has some idea ??
JOKEr
You forgot to put the switch in position 2 before hitting "read"...
Post by: jokerbrazil on December 02, 2009, 07:26:00 PM
QUOTE(_MRA_ @ Dec 3 2009, 01:21 AM)
You forgot to put the switch in position 2 before hitting "read"...
I made a Switch for 2 position as show de image. Otherwise the drive dont read because get's 0x52 status .
Tomorrow i'll try another time and see how goes on another new drive. I post if get a perfect Dump ^^
(I have no problems on soldering the PCB just to clear things
)JOKEr
QUOTE(Ranger72 @ Dec 2 2009, 10:14 PM)
you have to open the firmware as TARGET and NOT source.
No problem with that because i openned orig.bin on hexaedit . ( Hacked 1.6 is fine but orig extracted was a bad dump ff ff ff )
I was wondering about Ck3 coud be interfering on something or i'll just try the first method "epox remove..." and see what's going on.
JOKEr
Post by: jokerbrazil on December 03, 2009, 05:54:00 AM
But now its ok. Got a Good Dump
I'll flash and test , Thanks for the support ^^JOKEr
Post by: balli on December 03, 2009, 03:54:00 PM
has anyone made a complete tutorial with this step included ?
anyone awesome
Post by: Pepsi2007 on December 03, 2009, 07:56:00 PM
Post by: JamesNY on December 04, 2009, 03:06:00 AM
in my opinion i need to connect those wires like on picture
but i dont know do i have to connect my serial probe
also i dont know what exactly write in dosflash
so someone please write this step by step
please
Post by: stacker69 on December 04, 2009, 03:13:00 AM
QUOTE(Pepsi2007 @ Dec 4 2009, 01:56 PM)
i read all these things on dumping the fw off the 2 new drives but does the method work for the old 74 version?
If they use the same chip then yes it will work on the 74XXXX drive.
Post by: JamesNY on December 04, 2009, 08:19:00 AM
can it be done with jungleflasher
or what to do with my key?
Post by: ken D. on December 04, 2009, 02:36:00 PM
This post has been edited by ken D.: Dec 4 2009, 10:37 PM
Post by: ruben182 on December 04, 2009, 04:36:00 PM
This post has been edited by ruben182: Dec 5 2009, 12:42 AM
Post by: Pepsi2007 on December 04, 2009, 08:12:00 PM
Post by: andifx on December 04, 2009, 11:06:00 PM
i've just flashed 5 xbox , but i found 1 xbox that i can't dump...
always give me x52 in dosflash...
i tried about 3 times for this one, check the soldering, cut the track again, but still can;t dump the key...
the chip board still using Mx, and its firmware same as 4 before ( 93450c-2 , labeled on the dvd rom board ), 1 before had 93450.
is there anyone have the same problem with me ?
thanks you
Post by: iateshaggy on December 04, 2009, 11:12:00 PM
Post by: green360 on December 05, 2009, 06:01:00 AM
QUOTE(andifx @ Dec 5 2009, 07:06 AM)
i tried this method and its work great...
i've just flashed 5 xbox , but i found 1 xbox that i can't dump...
always give me x52 in dosflash...
i tried about 3 times for this one, check the soldering, cut the track again, but still can;t dump the key...
the chip board still using Mx, and its firmware same as 4 before ( 93450c-2 , labeled on the dvd rom board ), 1 before had 93450.
is there anyone have the same problem with me ?
thanks you
hye I read that the solution to this drives wich still give a 52 statut is to use a smaller resistor like 20ohms or 18, 16 ohms & tray again
good luck
Post by: Keezie on December 05, 2009, 03:22:00 PM
1. how exactly do i "resolder" the cut traces? do i need to scratch em down and connect a wire?
2. where exactly do i put the switch? the dotted line and a 1 and 2 aren't really doing much for me
thanks!
Post by: yamanik on December 05, 2009, 05:42:00 PM
I got all soldered perfectly no mess.
As i use to do a lot of satelllite receiver back 10 years ago...( Jtags and epprom removal )
I think i lost patience...
Please anyone in Montreal are or Laval area can PM , i`m willing to pay to get it flashed pleas
XBOX 360 elite
Liteon 93450c modded with the 22ohmz and 3.3V
Please PM waiting for you help Offer 40 $
Post by: chorizo1 on December 06, 2009, 10:36:00 AM
QUOTE(ccfman2004 @ Dec 6 2009, 02:12 AM)
Anyone have the original firmware dump for the Lite-On 83xxxV1 as I would like to go back to stock.
DO NOT ASK FOR FIRMWARE HERE. PERIOD.
this isn't even a new rule, this has always been the case here.
This post has been edited by chorizo1: Dec 6 2009, 06:37 PM
Post by: tonny_online on December 07, 2009, 04:37:00 AM
I'm having problems running Dosflash, it is only one giving this error message "No ATAPI devices present!"
Has anyone had this problem?
Can you help?
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 2 2009, 01:26 AM)
Works Beautifully!
THANK YOU!!!!!
I'm having problems running Dosflash, it is only one giving this error message "No ATAPI devices present!"
Can you help me?
Post by: pastortom on December 08, 2009, 10:24:00 AM
Anyways, quick question you guys! I wanna try this, as Ive got a 93450c dvd-drive here now, but I dont have a 22 ohms lying around, but Im pretty sure Ive got hundreds installed in a bounch of defective machines Ive got lying around..
But to avoid having to use my multimeter and measure about 100 trillion resistors, does anyone know what machines they usually are installed in? What types of gadgets?
And the most important question, can I successfully do this without a OHM resistor at all conencted on the ground wire? Dont wanna ruin the drive
Post by: iateshaggy on December 08, 2009, 10:39:00 AM
This post has been edited by iateshaggy: Dec 8 2009, 06:41 PM
Post by: pastortom on December 08, 2009, 10:42:00 AM
QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Dec 8 2009, 07:39 PM)
you are looking for one w/ 2 red lines then one black one. there is a forth line, but it just has to do with tolerances.
okey.. I will try and look for that,, but still, is the resistor 100% necessary for this to work?
Post by: iateshaggy on December 08, 2009, 10:47:00 AM
Post by: Shutdown[Swe] on December 08, 2009, 12:13:00 PM
Post by: Gujs on December 08, 2009, 12:24:00 PM
. I am just reading all the different tutorials and posts around here to figure out how to hack it myself. And now I have some questions on which I hope you guys will answer me. 1. I have LiteON 93450c, is this the same as 93450?
2. Do I need to read and write firmware when dvd is positioned in half open tray?
3. Do I need via sata pci card, because I can't find if stock sata on intel motherboard is enough?
I think I know the other things, and this is all I need right now to get me started. But if I will get stuck in the middle of the flashing process I will come back with more questions
.
Post by: pastortom on December 08, 2009, 12:57:00 PM
QUOTE
' date='Dec 8 2009, 09:13 PM' post='4585794'] worked great when i switched from xp 32bit to windows 7 64bit had some issues dumping with doslash 32 in xp but w7 worked instantly so i suggest people try that if you are experiencing short freezes and are unable to dump it (even with drive present and status 72 )
Aight, great..
But atm, Im only getting status 0x51 and 0x52 when I turn it on with the switch on..
I even try with the dvd-drive tray ejected half way out..
Nothing works..
no 0x72 =/ MTK vendor intro fails..
But it reckognizes the drive as a 93450c firmware revision and Liteon.. but the MTK Vendor Intro fails..
Now, the only possible two reasons Im left with is either:
1) the resistor Im using is wrong (ive measured it at 20k and it shows as 2.21, which Im pretty sure is 20 ohms)
2) the PIN101 is not properly cut away from the line above.. (AND HERES THE THING.. Ive cut it, and Im 99% certain its cut, probably cut it 15 times, and it looks 100% cut, but still my multimeter shows it as still connected to the line above)..
HALP?!
Post by: pastortom on December 08, 2009, 05:54:00 PM
QUOTE(jokerbrazil @ Dec 2 2009, 09:51 PM)
Hello there.
I did as the image + 22ohm resistor etc.. ( Ck3tool + Dosflash32 V1.8 ) Read the firmware but i'v got a problem.
The orig.bin extracted dont open on Jungle flash 1.67 neither the hacked ix1.6
Orig.bin extracted shows ff ff ff on Hexadecimal. But the hacked seems ok.
The drive still ok ( i'v made stock traces again on PCB and the drive is working. )
Anyone has some idea ??
JOKEr
I did as the image + 22ohm resistor etc.. ( Ck3tool + Dosflash32 V1.8 ) Read the firmware but i'v got a problem.
The orig.bin extracted dont open on Jungle flash 1.67 neither the hacked ix1.6
Orig.bin extracted shows ff ff ff on Hexadecimal. But the hacked seems ok.
The drive still ok ( i'v made stock traces again on PCB and the drive is working. )
Anyone has some idea ??
JOKEr
Did you try to open the fw in the "destination" window?
Post by: pastortom on December 08, 2009, 06:17:00 PM
QUOTE(pastortom @ Dec 8 2009, 09:57 PM)
Aight, great..
But atm, Im only getting status 0x51 and 0x52 when I turn it on with the switch on..
I even try with the dvd-drive tray ejected half way out..
Nothing works..
no 0x72 =/ MTK vendor intro fails..
But it reckognizes the drive as a 93450c firmware revision and Liteon.. but the MTK Vendor Intro fails..
Now, the only possible two reasons Im left with is either:
1) the resistor Im using is wrong (ive measured it at 20k and it shows as 2.21, which Im pretty sure is 20 ohms)
2) the PIN101 is not properly cut away from the line above.. (AND HERES THE THING.. Ive cut it, and Im 99% certain its cut, probably cut it 15 times, and it looks 100% cut, but still my multimeter shows it as still connected to the line above)..
HALP?!
Aight, I managed to successfully read a full dump of the 93450c firmware as well as spoofing the template iXtreme 1.6 93450c file, and erasing + flashing the drive.. Everything works 100%!!
The mistakes I did was as following : Didnt cut the 2. trace as shown in the diagram, somehow missed that, yes, the first cuts I did above PIN101 was 100% correct, it was the 2.trace all along
and didnt have the correct ohm resistor.. Found a 20 ohms, which worked wonders!And since I met so many walls during these 4-5 hours, which I found solutions to, I thought Id make a video guide on all of it.. With thanks to everyone who helped me..
Cypher21, Prankster, John_ and Co! And ofcourse carranzafp/Maximus for the template firmware, the guide and the testing he's been doing.. Also Jungleflasher Team and all of the associated programmers in these en-devours!
I actually managed to rip off the VIA PIN 101 point, but also managed to fix it, which Ive also made a short video about!
Im gonna edit the videos, and upload them before I go to bed, and Ill add them in this thread for you other guys who meet walls when it comes to this flashing!
BE VIGILANT!
Post by: pastortom on December 08, 2009, 11:14:00 PM
Hope you'll enjoy them guys
Been working on this for about 10 hours now, time for bed ^^,
Post by: xboxer360 on December 08, 2009, 11:18:00 PM
if anyone wants a solderless way, no trace cuts, no pin removal, just bridge 100 and 101 on intro, once it detects, unbridge read and voila, just use a pin or the tip of your multimeter, have done a few this way and none have been damaged.
This post has been edited by xboxer360: Dec 9 2009, 07:57 AM
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 12:48:00 AM
Post by: andifx on December 09, 2009, 12:54:00 AM
QUOTE(green360 @ Dec 5 2009, 02:01 PM)
hye I read that the solution to this drives wich still give a 52 statut is to use a smaller resistor like 20ohms or 18, 16 ohms & tray again
good luck
ok thanks, i just tried it, its give me status x72... but there's another anomali... in flash chip properties give Manufacturer ID: 0x00
Device ID: 0x00
The Read Flash Button is available, but of couse it can't dump the key....
is there any other solution ??
thank you
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 12:59:00 AM
Post by: wang_chung on December 09, 2009, 01:18:00 AM
mine is a 93450 if it matters
This post has been edited by wang_chung: Dec 9 2009, 09:19 AM
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 01:20:00 AM
Post by: dragoscojan on December 09, 2009, 05:45:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 9 2009, 08:18 AM)
i've done over 10 of these now, but i'm stuck with one wierd one, gives me status 80 then 52, no matter what i try, it's like the spi is staying powered up, I have lifted both 3.3v pins and the 1.8, cut traces below, plug it in xbox and it still runs games.... i'm stumped.
if anyone wants a solderless way, no trace cuts, no pin removal, just bridge 100 and 101 on intro, once it detects, unbridge read and voila, just use a pin or the tip of your multimeter, have done a few this way and none have been damaged.
which one is pad 100?
Post by: wiebel on December 09, 2009, 06:12:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 9 2009, 07:18 AM)
i've done over 10 of these now, but i'm stuck with one wierd one, gives me status 80 then 52, no matter what i try, it's like the spi is staying powered up, I have lifted both 3.3v pins and the 1.8, cut traces below, plug it in xbox and it still runs games.... i'm stumped.
if anyone wants a solderless way, no trace cuts, no pin removal, just bridge 100 and 101 on intro, once it detects, unbridge read and voila, just use a pin or the tip of your multimeter, have done a few this way and none have been damaged.
Interested in this method as well... Can anyone confirm this method is actually working, like for all liteon models?
Post by: pastortom on December 09, 2009, 08:02:00 AM
QUOTE(wiebel @ Dec 9 2009, 03:12 PM)
Interested in this method as well... Can anyone confirm this method is actually working, like for all liteon models?
Looks like my videoguide got kinda lost earlier in this thread
Maybe i should make a seperated thread for it, humms..I can confirm this works for 7485 and 9345 (93450 c).. and Im pretty sure it works on a 8385
Post by: wiebel on December 09, 2009, 08:43:00 AM
Post by: wang_chung on December 09, 2009, 09:40:00 AM
ok, did all that, but the 93450 ix firmware shows up as 83850, and i get the error "cross spoofing between versions of liteon is not supported". now i can manually enter the info, is that what everyone else is doing for the 93450? cause i read some other guys saying it doesn't work?
This post has been edited by wang_chung: Dec 9 2009, 05:54 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 09, 2009, 09:42:00 AM
Post by: iglitare on December 09, 2009, 09:45:00 AM
QUOTE(wang_chung @ Dec 9 2009, 05:40 PM)
right click! all i needed, damn. thanks xboxer360.
ok, did all that, but the 93450 ix firmware shows up as 83850, and i get the error "cross spoofing between versions of liteon is not supported". now i can manually enter the info, is that what everyone else is doing for the 93450?
excactly.
just enter your key and serial data
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 10:06:00 AM
Thanks,
Post by: tonny_online on December 09, 2009, 10:08:00 AM
My drive is the 83850c V2 ...
What should I do next?
Post by: ccfman2004 on December 09, 2009, 10:17:00 AM
QUOTE(tonny_online @ Dec 9 2009, 06:08 PM)
Well folks, already able to extract the key by Dosflash32, but when you try to open there in JungleFlash file appears as invalid.
My drive is the 83850c V2 ...
What should I do next?
Did you open it as TARGET? You can't open it as source.
Post by: tonny_online on December 09, 2009, 10:47:00 AM
QUOTE(ccfman2004 @ Dec 9 2009, 02:17 PM)
Did you open it as TARGET? You can't open it as source.
how should I do?
step-by-step?
Post by: wang_chung on December 09, 2009, 10:58:00 AM
..............
Drive returned Status 0x72
Manufacturer ID: 0x0
Device ID: 0x0
Flash Name: Unknown type
Flash Size: n/a
? can't seem to erase with the "lite-on erase" button. i hit the button, shut it off, then turn back on, and it gives me that, and when i hit write, it says "unknown flash type, write aborted". i assume you have to have the switch closed in order to get 0x72
This post has been edited by wang_chung: Dec 9 2009, 07:00 PM
Post by: iglitare on December 09, 2009, 11:11:00 AM
QUOTE(wang_chung @ Dec 9 2009, 06:58 PM)
Sending Lite-On-Erase request to port 0xCF00
..............
Drive returned Status 0x72
Manufacturer ID: 0x0
Device ID: 0x0
Flash Name: Unknown type
Flash Size: n/a
? can't seem to erase with the "lite-on erase" button. i hit the button, shut it off, then turn back on, and it gives me that, and when i hit write, it says "unknown flash type, write aborted". i assume you have to have the switch closed in order to get 0x72
omfg
if you had allready read your firmware/key, then
solder everything back to normal....
just try to read the existing threads in this forum or post in newbie area
Post by: apcarr on December 09, 2009, 11:14:00 AM
If you did everything correct either MXIC and Windbond drives should return status 0x72. While the MCIX is recognized immediately on Winbond drive you will get "unknown flash chip". If thats the case switch to position 2 and send Intro again --> Winbond will be recognized!
This post has been edited by apcarr: Dec 9 2009, 07:15 PM
Post by: ccfman2004 on December 09, 2009, 11:28:00 AM
QUOTE(tonny_online @ Dec 9 2009, 06:47 PM)
how should I do?
step-by-step?
In the first tab of Jungle Flasher you have a source firmware section and a target firmware section.
(IMG:http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/7521/jfopenastarget.jpg)
The red circle indicates the "Open Target Firmware" button
Post by: tonny_online on December 09, 2009, 11:40:00 AM
QUOTE(ccfman2004 @ Dec 9 2009, 03:28 PM)
In the first tab of Jungle Flasher you have a source firmware section and a target firmware section.
(IMG:http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/7521/jfopenastarget.jpg)
The red circle indicates the "Open Target Firmware" button
Hello everybody, I'm here to confirm a part of the process.
1) I was able to extract the KEY
2) When you try to READ JungleFlash clicking "OPEN SOURCE FIRMWARE" he says, "THIS IS NOT A VALID SOURCE F / W FILE"
3) When you try to READ the jungleFlash clicking "TARGET OPEN FIRMWARE" (tip ccfman20040 that is our friend here the forum), it opens the Key and appears DVDKey.
My question is: I already own the DVDKey, select and copy it, what to do next?
And in "OPEN SOURCE FIRMWARE" what should I put?
Sorry the many Asked Questions, is that this is the first 83850c v2 I'm trying to hack.
Post by: gotloveforall on December 09, 2009, 02:22:00 PM
QUOTE(tonny_online @ Dec 9 2009, 02:40 PM)
Hello everybody, I'm here to confirm a part of the process.
1) I was able to extract the KEY
2) When you try to READ JungleFlash clicking "OPEN SOURCE FIRMWARE" he says, "THIS IS NOT A VALID SOURCE F / W FILE"
3) When you try to READ the jungleFlash clicking "TARGET OPEN FIRMWARE" (tip ccfman20040 that is our friend here the forum), it opens the Key and appears DVDKey.
My question is: I already own the DVDKey, select and copy it, what to do next?
And in "OPEN SOURCE FIRMWARE" what should I put?
Sorry the many Asked Questions, is that this is the first 83850c v2 I'm trying to hack.
After you OPEN TARGET FIRMWARE then hit the MANUAL SPOOFING and insert your KEY. Then save.
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 03:16:00 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 09, 2009, 03:16:00 PM
Post by: speedy2721 on December 09, 2009, 03:17:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 9 2009, 12:18 AM)
i've done over 10 of these now, but i'm stuck with one wierd one, gives me status 80 then 52, no matter what i try, it's like the spi is staying powered up, I have lifted both 3.3v pins and the 1.8, cut traces below, plug it in xbox and it still runs games.... i'm stumped.
if anyone wants a solderless way, no trace cuts, no pin removal, just bridge 100 and 101 on intro, once it detects, unbridge read and voila, just use a pin or the tip of your multimeter, have done a few this way and none have been damaged.
Has anyone else tried doing it this way and got it to work?
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 03:31:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 9 2009, 11:16 PM)
Yes, it's how I do all of them.
What version of Dosflash is being used??? --> SPI should get recognized with status 0x72 When I run dosflash I get MTK unknow, I don't get 0x72. I have three boards I'm working with and all tree do the same thing.
Post by: ZerOneX on December 09, 2009, 03:38:00 PM
QUOTE(wang_chung @ Dec 9 2009, 03:58 PM)
Sending Lite-On-Erase request to port 0xCF00
..............
Drive returned Status 0x72
Manufacturer ID: 0x0
Device ID: 0x0
Flash Name: Unknown type
Flash Size: n/a
? can't seem to erase with the "lite-on erase" button. i hit the button, shut it off, then turn back on, and it gives me that, and when i hit write, it says "unknown flash type, write aborted". i assume you have to have the switch closed in order to get 0x72
DO NOT click "LITE-ON ERASE".... click ERASE under the Flashing Tasks under the MKTFlash tab.... just like BenQ....
I guarantee that will work.... get your flash type recognized.. and click Erase.... do not click on "LITE-ON ERASE"
I hope this helps.
Post by: iglitare on December 09, 2009, 03:39:00 PM
you bridge 1,8V and 3,3V.
I think you could possible fry the chip.
Maybe it works a few times, but there will be this one time, you fry the chip.
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 04:02:00 PM
Post by: Takashi on December 09, 2009, 04:07:00 PM
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 04:18:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 10 2009, 12:07 AM)
Newest version of course, v1.8
So I assume earlier version will not dump this drive?
Post by: Takashi on December 09, 2009, 04:31:00 PM
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 04:36:00 PM
QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 10 2009, 12:31 AM)
I don't know, but what would be the point?
I just tried 1.8 and I still get the same thing. All the area with the Manufacture ID is not there. I have check all my cut traces and my soldering. I'm working with fw 93450-c2
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 04:49:00 PM
Post by: saleem_hacks_360s on December 09, 2009, 05:22:00 PM
are you using a switch?if you are ditch it and just use the wires touching method,i just hooked them and then unhooked them.
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 05:29:00 PM
QUOTE(speedy2721 @ Dec 9 2009, 11:17 PM)
Has anyone else tried doing it this way and got it to work?
try it at your own risk i've done quite a few and they're all fine, 1 in 10 won't work as they're picking and need a lower voltage.
not everything is black and white, even the resistor method is putting a lot of draw on the circuit.
it only needs to be bridged for power up, less than a second, doesn't even get hot.
In the end, this method is probably less risky than a noob ripping legs off the IC or pulling pads off the board.
To recap, bridging 101 and 100 on power up with no cut traces or pin lifts/soldering will get you status 72, then just unbridge and you will be able to read.
This post has been edited by xboxer360: Dec 10 2009, 01:31 AM
Post by: xboxchan on December 09, 2009, 05:29:00 PM
QUOTE(saleem_hacks_360s @ Dec 10 2009, 01:22 AM)
the resistor perhaps?if your using a 22ohm,try a 20ohm.
are you using a switch?if you are ditch it and just use the wires touching method,i just hooked them and then unhooked them.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Is position one closed (circut) or open?
Post by: speedy2721 on December 09, 2009, 05:55:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 9 2009, 06:29 PM)
try it at your own risk i've done quite a few and they're all fine, 1 in 10 won't work as they're picking and need a lower voltage.
not everything is black and white, even the resistor method is putting a lot of draw on the circuit.
it only needs to be bridged for power up, less than a second, doesn't even get hot.
In the end, this method is probably less risky than a noob ripping legs off the IC or pulling pads off the board.
To recap, bridging 101 and 100 on power up with no cut traces or pin lifts/soldering will get you status 72, then just unbridge and you will be able to read.
Ok thanks, I will give it a try later. You should make a new thread about this for more people will be able to see this method since right now it is in the middle of another thread.
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 05:58:00 PM
QUOTE(speedy2721 @ Dec 10 2009, 01:55 AM)
Ok thanks, I will give it a try later. You should make a new thread about this for more people will be able to see this method since right now it is in the middle of another thread.
nah.. don't need to bignote it as it wasn't my theory to begin with, once people try this and realise it works it'll get around by itself.
Post by: jokerbrazil on December 09, 2009, 06:16:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxchan @ Dec 10 2009, 01:29 AM)
Is position one closed (circut) or open?
Position One - Goes to Resistor > GND >
Position Two is open .
If you gonna make more than 1 drive make a Switch ^^
Tip for cuting ( Pad ) 101 ( Dont cut this pad from the trace )
Just Do as i show on the image and avoid trouble with this PADs . Dont Mess up the PCB ^^ If you fcked the trace is simple to Reconnect , but if you fcked a PAD you gonna get a really pain in the balls to find out where to make a jumper because they passes over the other side of PCB and stay under the C.I
Well that's it. My next Step is fun with ( Dump Nand's on this Weekend -Without Cygnos
)CYa
Post by: speedy2721 on December 09, 2009, 06:27:00 PM
This post has been edited by speedy2721: Dec 10 2009, 02:28 AM
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 07:09:00 PM
QUOTE(jokerbrazil @ Dec 10 2009, 02:16 AM)
Position One - Goes to Resistor > GND >
Position Two is open .
If you gonna make more than 1 drive make a Switch ^^
Tip for cuting ( Pad ) 101 ( Dont cut this pad from the trace )
Just Do as i show on the image and avoid trouble with this PADs . Dont Mess up the PCB ^^ If you fcked the trace is simple to Reconnect , but if you fcked a PAD you gonna get a really pain in the balls to find out where to make a jumper because they passes over the other side of PCB and stay under the C.I
Well that's it. My next Step is fun with ( Dump Nand's on this Weekend -Without Cygnos
)CYa
even if you lift the pad, it's not hard to join pin 101 back to a 3.3v source. in fact the drive still works without it, you can lift both pins 101 and 122 and it still works, heck it works even with 1.8 lifted too
Post by: andifx on December 09, 2009, 09:16:00 PM
after tried from 10, 11, 12, till 20 ohm, the 20 ohm perfectly fit for dumping my dvdrom key...
thank you folks...
Post by: xboxer360 on December 09, 2009, 09:26:00 PM
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 12:01:00 AM
Post by: anjelika on December 10, 2009, 04:09:00 AM
Do I have to re-solder the DVD PCB back or can I use another unit (e.g. Benq) to spoof it?
If I spoof it back can I erase and re-flash the Liteon 93xxx?
Thanks
Post by: ZerOneX on December 10, 2009, 04:16:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 10 2009, 12:09 AM)
top left corner, second and third pins from the right.
even if you lift the pad, it's not hard to join pin 101 back to a 3.3v source. in fact the drive still works without it, you can lift both pins 101 and 122 and it still works, heck it works even with 1.8 lifted too
Is true that the dvd drive works even with pin 101 disconnected from 3.3v? i always cut pin101 from 3.3v and put it back...
Do you know what happens if i do not solder pin 101 with 3.3V again?
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 06:31:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxchan @ Dec 10 2009, 08:01 AM)
What would cause my computer to lockup everytime I boot the drive in position one?
has any one else had this problem, if so what did you do to resolve it?
Post by: anjelika on December 10, 2009, 08:52:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxchan @ Dec 10 2009, 03:31 PM)
has any one else had this problem, if so what did you do to resolve it?
I read something about this...the guy tried Windows XP 32 bits without much success and it worked on Windows 7 64 bits.
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 09:16:00 AM
QUOTE(anjelika @ Dec 10 2009, 04:52 PM)
I read something about this...the guy tried Windows XP 32 bits without much success and it worked on Windows 7 64 bits.
I'm using windows XP with the VIA 6421. I have never had any problems with past drives. So is it related to the operating system or some type of configuration adjustment in windows?
Can someone with experience with this suggest some alternatives .
Thanks,
Post by: iateshaggy on December 10, 2009, 09:28:00 AM
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 09:39:00 AM
QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Dec 10 2009, 05:28 PM)
either a bad set up (looks at via driver), turning things on in the wrong order, cut the wrong trace, got solder on the wrong spot, or some combination of all of the above.
It only only freezes in position 1, position 2 works fine but I need to power the Xbox up in position 1. Could it be the resistor? The weird thing is it's doing it on all three of the boards I'm trying to dump.
Post by: iateshaggy on December 10, 2009, 10:55:00 AM
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 10:57:00 AM
QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Dec 10 2009, 06:55 PM)
are you using the mra method or the boxxdr method?
MRA
Does the MRA method work with all current drives relased to date? No matter the Manufacturing Date?
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 12:52:00 PM
QUOTE(xboxchan @ Dec 10 2009, 06:57 PM)
MRA
Does the MRA method work with all current drives relased to date? No matter the Manufacturing Date?
It has to be something to do with the resistor. On all three boards it freeze the computer as soon as i hook up the 22 ohm resistor
Post by: iateshaggy on December 10, 2009, 12:54:00 PM
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 01:02:00 PM
QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Dec 10 2009, 08:54 PM)
try a 20 or a different 22.
what is the purpose for the resistor? Should I go up or down from 22?
Post by: xboxchan on December 10, 2009, 01:33:00 PM
DVD ROM REV:01
68S32G16D2SC01X
E74739
94V-0
SUNG WEI 88V0A
BS-1
4-r-P
F/W93450C-2
M15
5B13400126V01
S4P9930000
0014605238
2090826D
has anyone done one like this before?
This post has been edited by xboxchan: Dec 10 2009, 09:41 PM
Post by: gregeet on December 10, 2009, 06:58:00 PM
This post has been edited by gregeet: Dec 11 2009, 02:59 AM
Post by: xboxchan on December 11, 2009, 06:28:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxchan @ Dec 10 2009, 09:33 PM)
this is all the info on my board:
DVD ROM REV:01
68S32G16D2SC01X
E74739
94V-0
SUNG WEI 88V0A
BS-1
4-r-P
F/W93450C-2
M15
5B13400126V01
S4P9930000
0014605238
2090826D
has anyone done one like this before?
I have tried this with XP 2000 and Vista and it locks up all of these OS's
Post by: chorizo1 on December 16, 2009, 01:22:00 PM
Post by: swiebie on December 17, 2009, 06:51:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Dec 10 2009, 03:09 AM)
top left corner, second and third pins from the right.
even if you lift the pad, it's not hard to join pin 101 back to a 3.3v source. in fact the drive still works without it, you can lift both pins 101 and 122 and it still works, heck it works even with 1.8 lifted too
Why do we need to make a hardware workaround while the xbox can see the drive ID by the cable?
Post by: hawk_dsl-komi on December 18, 2009, 12:20:00 AM
For test wrote dumped firmware without changes - after that drive can't recognize in 360 - it stuck on main logo. How can it be - bad flash but no one software tool cant see that? Keys and serials are indentify in all 3 dumps. But - serial in JF (in inquiry/identify/drive serial) is 17 chars + "!" + two spaces. If in manual spoof chooses any liteon (7 or 8) at "spoofed as", error is pop up - serial must be 17 chars and three spaces. One point to bad dump? I don't want to believe....
Post by: Zoneout on December 18, 2009, 05:47:00 AM
QUOTE(xboxchan @ Dec 11 2009, 07:33 AM)
this is all the info on my board:
DVD ROM REV:01
68S32G16D2SC01X
E74739
94V-0
SUNG WEI 88V0A
BS-1
4-r-P
F/W93450C-2
M15
5B13400126V01
S4P9930000
0014605238
2090826D
has anyone done one like this before?
Works fine for me, September 2009 93450C-2.
Post by: pappi76 on February 23, 2010, 05:33:00 AM
QUOTE(pastortom @ Dec 8 2009, 08:57 PM)
Aight, great..
But atm, Im only getting status 0x51 and 0x52 when I turn it on with the switch on..
I even try with the dvd-drive tray ejected half way out..
Nothing works..
no 0x72 =/ MTK vendor intro fails..
But it reckognizes the drive as a 93450c firmware revision and Liteon.. but the MTK Vendor Intro fails..
Now, the only possible two reasons Im left with is either:
1) the resistor Im using is wrong (ive measured it at 20k and it shows as 2.21, which Im pretty sure is 20 ohms)
2) the PIN101 is not properly cut away from the line above.. (AND HERES THE THING.. Ive cut it, and Im 99% certain its cut, probably cut it 15 times, and it looks 100% cut, but still my multimeter shows it as still connected to the line above)..
HALP?!