Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 11:34:00 AM
---
---
Installation Diagram
After connecting, use the latest version of Nandpro to read the flash, and youre done!
Programming Software and Drivers
I have a zip file containing the latest firmware, bootloader, and firmware flashing tool hosted here. To upgrade the firmware (if a later version is released, or something like that):
- place the jumper across the 'Join to reflash' pins on the board
- download the flashing software I uploaded
- run the exe
- select the only one in the list from the drop down menu
- hit load hex file, and select the latest hex file
- click program device
Now you can remove the jumper and you will have a flasher updated to the latest version!
Also, Ive uploaded a set of drivers (found all over the forums, I take no credit for them) in which I have renamed how the driver shows up so that its easier to distinguish modes.
You will find the drivers here.
It will show up as "USB NAND Flasher (Flasher Mode)" and "USB NAND Flasher (Bootloader mode)", instead of "Lib-Win32 Device" or "Custom USB Device" respectively.
---
All credit goes to DarkstarTM for the original PIC 18F2455 design and for the software used in this reader. His original thread can be found here.
This reader is based off a PIC18F2455 and is likely the easiest to use (that Ive seen). It has seven wires, connected to the flasher via a removeable, polarized connector, which get soldered to the motherboard (no external resistors or diodes needed for the flasher - you still need the respective parts for the JTAG connections) and has a USB-B connector onboard, to allow easy connection to a computer with a USB A to B cable (basically a USB printer cable). It also includes a female programming header, incase you want to change the bootloader. This also provides access to 5v and GND, if you want to power the NAND from the flasher, instead of using the Xbox's PSU. Simpler designs exist using the LPT port, but if you're like me and your motherboard doesnt have one, this is one of few options, and the only pre-made flasher that Im aware of!
This is the original prototype, v1.0, populated:
** Do not attempt replicate the v1.0 board from what you see in the pictures. There are two major errors with the first revision - the usb's ground connection doesnt connect to the other grounds, and MCLR needs to be pulled high with a 10k resistor. They have been fixed in v2.0. There are also a few changes, such as the USB header being changed to an actual USB-B port.
--
Here are the latest board designs, which will be etched, assembled, and shipped to everyone who participated in the GB (more info a little ways down):
v2.3 Top Side:
v2.3 Bottom Side:
v2.3 Schematic:
--------
Thanks for all the interest guys! Im unbeliveably amazed by how much response Ive gotten from just postinng something Ive made.
If youre looking to buy one, and your name isnt on the list, unfortunately the group buy has been completed. I hope to run another group buy within a month or so, so keep your eyes open.
Here is the current list:
1. kacroet (X-S) PAID
2. kanknast (X-S) PAID
4. DeathGrind (X-S) PAID
6. iacon22 (X-S) PAID
7. ericvct (X-S) PAID
8. bobasp1 (X-S) PAID
11. hcaa (X-S) PAID
12. brando56894 (X-S) PAID
14. NADGG106 (X-S) PAID
15. ddxcb (X-S) PAID
16. Perplexer (X-S) PAID
17. harleywastaken (X-S) PAID
18. moreniu (X-S) PAID
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S) PAID
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile PAID
21. rastaman108037 (X-S) PAID
22. Darth Soap (X-S) PAID
23. Benno094 (X-S) - kit PAID
24. eyric101 (X-S) PAID
25. MasterGouken (X-S) PAID
26. utar (X-S) PAID
27. marten.broadcloak (X-S) PAID
28. nemiers (X-S) PAID
30. TRYMYZ (X-S) PAID
E1. FoxRacR17 (X-S) PAID
E2. JeffJ2 (X-S) PAID
E3. micl432 (X-S)
Anywho, Im almost ready to place the order; just lining up the connectors. This means I need moolah! All joking aside, I need the people on the GB list to send payment for the flashers. After all the calculations, Ive decided to charge $30 per board, $4 for shipping within Canada, $5 for shipping in the USA, and $7 anywhere else in the world (via lettermail - if you want it there faster or by courier, I can arrange that). If youve opted for a kit, subtract $5 from the total (the majority of my labour is going to go into etching the boards - I can solder the flasher together in 10 minutes or so, so I cant knock off that much for that labour).
All payments will be handled through PayPal. This way, if anything goes wrong, and I need to refund anyones money, all it takes is for me to hit the Refund button. If you have any doubts about sending money to me, consider the following: Im a Verified PayPal member, and I have plenty of feedback on many different forums; not to mention 100% eBay feedback (ID: jordan011sk). Ive also been around these forums for over five years now (wow! didnt realize how long its been). If anyone has a problem with or any doubts about sending me money, please send me a PM and we will work something out.
So, for anyone whos on the GB list, please send $30 + shipping (so $34 if you are in Canada, $35 if you are in the USA, and $37 for anywhere else in the world) to [email protected] . Yes, thats Canadian Dollars by the way - it didnt seem fair to me to charge you guys in USD since Im in Canada, so for anyone who lives somewhere with a better dollar than Canada, it will actually be cheaper for you. Please, PLEASE, put "USB-Based NAND Flasher" in the subject line, your X-S username in the little message box thingy, and be sure to include your address so I know where to ship to. If I get a payment that doesnt follow this layout (the subject can be a little off, but still along those same lines) I will refund your payment. I dont want to have to figure out peoples usernames based off emails or names.
Finally, if payment is not received by 11:59PM on December 29th, you will be removed from the GB list as there are a few people looking to buy one that missed being on the list.
December 30th EDIT The list has been edited to show who I have received payment from, and those who havent paid have
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 18, 2009, 11:53:00 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 11:57:00 AM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 18, 2009, 12:10:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 18 2009, 06:57 PM) 
I looked at picking up one of those, but found I could build something for much cheaper (and with a lot less headache it would seem, after reading the guides for those boards)
Oops - sorry! Didn't mean to hijack your thread (thought I was replying to another one). Apologies !
The 'headaches' came from trying to program it with a level shifter - my tutorial does it with a JTAG Wiggler clone and takes about 2 mins to do!
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 12:42:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on December 18, 2009, 02:39:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 03:50:00 PM
This post has been edited by AfterTheInsanity: Dec 23 2009, 06:51 AM
Post by: arielzadi on December 18, 2009, 04:18:00 PM
i think im gonna buy one myself
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 05:31:00 PM
Right now, this is approx. what it costs me to make one:
PIC - $9
Resonator - $2
Wires (the coloured ones you see in my picture - can be swapped out for detachable ones, or a header - your choice) - $3
Misc Headers - $1.00
Misc Resistors - $0.50
For a total of $15.50 per board in parts.
Now, each PCB needs a board, and I prefer to etch PCBs instead of soldering wires or using veroboard:
PCB - $2.50 (1/8th of a $20 board)
For a running total of $18
And if I was doing it for someone else:
Labour (pcb etching, soldering, and programming) - ~$10
For a grand total of $28.
However, if you guys were willing to commit to buying them, I will look into pricing out the parts in higher quantities, which should be cheaper from somewhere like DigiKey, vs my local Electronics store.
Post by: arielzadi on December 18, 2009, 05:44:00 PM
Post by: dryheat360 on December 18, 2009, 06:05:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 08:15:00 PM
Since there seems to be some interest, Im going to put a list together, so I can get an idea on the kind of numbers Id be looking at. Please reply and say youd like to be on the list, and Ill put you down for one. If I get a lot of people, I may require a small deposit (maybe $5 or so) so that I can get all the parts together, and make sure no one backs out.
Finally, would you guys want a female header, or just a female USB-B jack?
Anywho, here is my 'put me down for one' list. I require a minimum of two people, but I can handle any amount above that. As we are all off for Christmas holidays, I assume that a lot more people are going to be online, with free time, playing around with their xbox's. Therefore, Im going to leave this group-buy open for one week. It will close Christmas Day, and when it closes, I will inform everyone of the final cost (it may fluctuate based on the amount of people) and work out a deposit, if need be. If GB's arent allowed, or there is any issue with this, mods, please contact me, and Im sure we will be able to fix it.
AfterTheInsanity's USB-Based Xbox360 SPI Flasher
1.
2.
This post has been edited by AfterTheInsanity: Dec 19 2009, 04:16 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 09:39:00 PM
Post by: kanknast on December 18, 2009, 11:12:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 18, 2009, 11:37:00 PM
Post by: kanknast on December 19, 2009, 12:18:00 AM
This post has been edited by kanknast: Dec 19 2009, 08:20 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 19, 2009, 12:42:00 AM
Also, yes, I did two dumps, compared with a hex editor, and checked with Degraded, with no errors. I also used it to successfully flash Xell to get my CPU keys (and when I get back from my holiday to SFE I will flash a new dvdrom and see if the key [and therefore the dump] is correct)
Post by: geep6 on December 19, 2009, 01:19:00 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 19, 2009, 01:24:00 AM
Post by: geep6 on December 19, 2009, 01:29:00 AM
Post by: kanknast on December 19, 2009, 05:20:00 AM
QUOTE(geep6 @ Dec 19 2009, 03:19 AM)
i would be interested in a diy kit were i would put it together with the pic already programmed would that be possible
not me. i want this thing ready out of the box. usb connector ready for me to plug 'n play (so to speak). i'm not positive, but i'd imagine that this is what most of the people buying from you would appreciate too.
anyway, usb connector + pre-flashed PIC = i'm sold. "put me down." thanks
Post by: arielzadi on December 19, 2009, 05:30:00 AM
QUOTE(geep6 @ Dec 19 2009, 10:19 AM)
i would be interested in a diy kit were i would put it together with the pic already programmed would that be possible
exactly what i wanted to say
a pre plashed pic in a diy kit would be graet
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 19, 2009, 06:30:00 AM
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
Post by: DeathGrind on December 19, 2009, 06:59:00 AM
This post has been edited by DeathGrind: Dec 19 2009, 03:09 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 19, 2009, 07:26:00 AM
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
Post by: firebuddie on December 19, 2009, 02:37:00 PM
Post by: DeathGrind on December 19, 2009, 06:36:00 PM
This is the tool I need to do my large nand 256/512MB jasper boards. I really wasn't looking forward to 15+ hours to dump my nand. And with Xbreboot just being released for large block nands, this is perfect.
I'm really surprised that you only have 4 people on your list so far. I personally am really looking forward to getting mine.
What a great post to stumble upon, when I was looking into building a usb nand reader.
AfterTheInsanity- let me know whenever/if you need a deposit, or payment in full.
Post by: iacon22 on December 19, 2009, 08:46:00 PM
Post by: ericvct on December 19, 2009, 09:24:00 PM
Thanks
Post by: eyric101 on December 19, 2009, 09:26:00 PM
Post by: NADGG106 on December 19, 2009, 09:43:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 18 2009, 07:34 PM) 
Thanks to ______ (will be filled in when I can access XboxHacker - I get a DNS not found error, seems their site is down) for the original PIC 18F2455 design and for the software used in this reader.
This reader is based off a PIC 18F2455 and is likely the easiest to use (that Ive seen). It has seven wires which get soldered to the motherboard (no external resistors or diodes needed) and has female headers to allow stripped wires / jumper wires / male connectors to plug in. Simpler designs exist using the LPT port, but if you're like me and your motherboard doesnt have one, this is one of few options!
Etched Board:
(IMG:http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/8117/img2228p.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/4364/img2229l.th.jpg)
Populated:
(IMG:http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/290/img2230u.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/1666/img2232k.th.jpg)
Populated, with wires showing:
(IMG:http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/2286/img2234ge.th.jpg)
** Do not replicate the board from what you see in the pictures. There are two major errors with the first revision - the usb's ground connection doesnt connect to the other grounds, and MCLR needs to be pulled high with a 10k resistor. They have been fixed in v2.0
v2.0 Schematic:
(IMG:http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/8284/schem.th.png)
v2.0 Board:
(IMG:http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/6481/boardw.th.png)
Success! Read 2x and compared with Hex Workshop, and they are perfect matches, and Degraded gives no errors. The read took about 5 minutes total, for both times. For anyone interested, I used a PicKit 2 to flash the chip (usb-based), and I made most of the headers female, to allow for a variety of connection methods. Also, depending on the sale price, Id be willing to manufacture and sell these, pre-flashed (so you dont need to flash the PIC chip), if there is enough interest. The cost would likely be around $25-30 each, with your choice of headers (usb header replaced with USB connector, etc).
Post by: bobasp1 on December 19, 2009, 10:04:00 PM
pre assembled plug and play usb one.
This post has been edited by bobasp1: Dec 20 2009, 06:07 AM
Post by: techman36 on December 19, 2009, 11:18:00 PM
Thanks!
Post by: dokworm on December 20, 2009, 12:21:00 AM
Post by: supes on December 20, 2009, 12:56:00 AM
Post by: hcaa on December 20, 2009, 01:45:00 AM
EDIT:
Looks like I'm 11th on the list!
This post has been edited by hcaa: Dec 20 2009, 09:50 AM
Post by: DeathGrind on December 20, 2009, 06:15:00 AM
I read this thread:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691873
I really like the idea of having a ethernet port for quick connection to the 360's nand. I do plan on setting up the 360's I work on like this. I have already ordered all the parts to do this set up.
So I got thinking how to connect this USB unit.
I would like something like this:
360 motherboard--------->Ethernet Port <---------Ethernet Plug---------------USB Nand Reader
A question I have is, once I receive the USB Nand Reader, I guess I have no need for the 25pin D-Sub connector I recently purchased.
Also, I am wondering if a instruction/installation sheet would be included with the USB nand reader. I assume you just follow the normal setup.
(IMG:http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t132/necroflesh666/SPI__JTAG_diagramzephyr-falcon-opus.png)
And set it up just as shown, but replace the 25pin male D sub connector with the USB NAND reader. Providing the instructions of how the USB Nand reader connects to the 360 would help me with clarification.
If the final units that are sent out include the multicolored wires then a install instructions would be simple.
(IMG:http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t132/necroflesh666/img2230u.jpg)
Example:
Brown------------>J1D2.1
Red-------------->J1D2.2
Orange----------->J1D2.3
etc.........
If indeed that is how this USB nand reader will connect, then I don't see a problem placing a ethernet port in between the USB Nand Reader and the xbox motherboard for use with multiple xboxs.
THanks
also, will the units be tested to make sure you you get a full proper NAND dump before they are shipped, or will that cost extra (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
***************edit********************
I just reread the 1st post
QUOTE
This reader is based off a PIC 18F2455 and is likely the easiest to use (that Ive seen). It has seven wires which get soldered to the motherboard (no external resistors or diodes needed) and has female headers to allow stripped wires / jumper wires / male connectors to plug in. Simpler designs exist using the LPT port, but if you're like me and your motherboard doesnt have one, this is one of few options!
That cleared somethings up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Well I guess I have no use for all the switching diodes and resistors I purchased. Oh well......
Can the units be sent out with populated multicolored wires?
This post has been edited by DeathGrind: Dec 20 2009, 02:36 PM
Post by: DeathGrind on December 20, 2009, 07:07:00 AM
so I am thinking something like this. ****PH is for Pin Header*****
360 motherboard-------->female PH <----male PH---------male PH----> female PH(USB Nand Reader)
AfterTheInsanity........where would you be getting your pinheaders from, as I would like to make sure to order the same ones so everything fits properly.
hmmmmmmmmm, maybe if you are willing you could offer a deluxe version. A set that comes with the:
*USB Nand reader with female header
*Female header with multicolored wires to connect to the motherboard, with instructions
Example:
------Brown------------>J1D2.1
------Red--------------->J1D2.2
------Orange----------->J1D2.3
etc.........
*A cable with male pin headers on each end to connect the two.
-----the pinheaders could be notched to prevent people from making a improper connection------
Anyway, just a thought. May not be useful for all, but for someone like me that has not yet set up the JTAG or lpt connections it would provide everything I needed.
If you are willing then count me in for the "deluxe". I could do it myself, but I would prefer having everything show up in one nice convenient package. Because I'm lazy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
This post has been edited by DeathGrind: Dec 20 2009, 03:14 PM
Post by: brando56894 on December 20, 2009, 11:30:00 AM
When you were talking about USB headers, USB ports and detachable wires im assuming the detachable wires would be from the Xbox motherboard to the PCB of the NAND reader and the usb port would be from the PCB to your computer? Thats the way I'd like to have mine setup if thats not how it already is.
Post by: brando56894 on December 20, 2009, 02:00:00 PM
Post by: rsd on December 20, 2009, 02:02:00 PM
Just a few questions:
-Is the 7pin header going to the 360 detachable?
-What about a small dipswitch for the bootloader mode jumper?
-Why not use a 12mhz crystal? I read a little of the thread on XBH before it went down and it seemed like people were having trouble with the resonaters dumping 256/512 jaspers but once they tried a crystal it worked fine.
-Would you mind if some people wanted different components? Maybe someone ones a USB B connector instead of a 4pin header.
I was planning on purchasing the components from http://www.dipmicro.com/store/ . Think hes based out of ontario and buys bulk from digikey/newark. Maybe you can get some stuff cheap from there
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 20, 2009, 02:50:00 PM
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
First off, Id like to thank everyone for all the interest! I never thought there would be as many people as there are interested in these boards - it started off as something Ive been waiting to be able to do for a long time, and I was just proud of the board (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Also, just a heads-up, Im heading down to Colorado to check out SFE and Aspen, so my activity on the site will be intermittant between now and Christmas day (when I fly home). I will do my best to check this thread at least once a day, to make sure any questions you guys have get answered. I may also extend the GB close date by a day or two, if there is some interest in that.
---
Now, for the questions; Ive cut down the contents of your reply a bit, to show the question and my answer. If Ive cut too much out, I apologize in advance; just let me know and Ill give you a better answer.
QUOTE(firebuddie @ Dec 19 2009, 04:37 PM)
Thing is I live in UK. How much P&P likely to get to me in say a weeks freight time?
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Dec 19 2009, 08:36 PM)
AfterTheInsanity- let me know whenever/if you need a deposit, or payment in full.
day the GB ends, or the day after at the latest. I will make sure to make a clear post on what will
be required when that time comes.
QUOTE(eyric101 @ Dec 19 2009, 11:26 PM)
anyone have link to solder the usb spi to a jasper? (other then xbh, as its down)
for the LPT connections are to the same pins, but I only have a Xenon to test on) be the same, it
will just be the connections you need to make on the motherboard that will vary. The connections
that will need to be made on the motherboard for the Jasper can be found here. You can just ignore
the LPT part. I plan on making a small install/connection guide so its easier for everyone to hook
up.
QUOTE(NADGG106 @ Dec 19 2009, 11:43 PM)
would you sell one of these thats all i would need right i cant get the lpt to get reckognized on my
cpu
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Dec 20 2009, 12:04 AM)
Id be interested in one of these, well I'm a novice solderer. Do you have a install diagram for what
points you need to solder? If its not to crazy, I'd be interested in getting this.
are relatively large. As I mentioned in an earlier reply, I hope to make up an install diagram. If
youd like to see what points you will need to be soldering to, check out the J2B1 and J1D2
connectors on the motherboard. Soldering the flasher to the motherboard is as easy as installing a
modchip in an Xbox (not including the D0 wire, of course).
QUOTE(dokworm @ Dec 20 2009, 02:21 AM)
I'd buy one, if you'll ship to Australia.
(which is implied, as everyone else will need to pay shipping too tongue.gif) and dont mind the wait
time. If youd like it there faster than the typical 4-7 supposed business days that it will take to
get there, I have no problem working out an alternate shipping method with you (UPS, FedEx, DHL,
etc).
QUOTE(supes @ Dec 20 2009, 02:56 AM)
So is the same as the USB SPI that Grim187 is selling with the xbox's he is modding?
QUOTE(hcaa @ Dec 20 2009, 03:45 AM)
Please put me on the list. How long do you think the assembly delay will be? I may opt for a kit and
assemble it myself if there's a lot of people queued in front of me.
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Dec 20 2009, 08:15 AM)
A question I have is, once I receive the USB Nand Reader, I guess I have no need for the 25pin D-Sub connector I recently purchased.
Correct!
Also, I am wondering if a instruction/installation sheet would be included with the USB nand reader.
I assume you just follow the normal setup.
Again, correct! As mentioned earlier, Im likely going to make up a small guide on how to connect it and use it If the final units that are sent out include the multicolored wires then a install instructions
would be simple. Im planning on shipping all the units with multicoloured wire like that, but Im also open to other options (if people wanted a female header, or no wires at all, etc)
Also, will the units be tested to make sure you you get a full proper NAND dump before they are shipped, or will that cost extra tongue.gif
Im hoping to come up with some sort of clip that I can attach to the board, in order to be able to test them before shipping (included in the Flasher cost, of course!). However, if I end up having to sell them untested, I will have no problem refunding 100% of the purchase price. Mind you, if I test them in advance, I will know for sure that they work, so thats likely what Im going to do, as it will help with troubleshooting, since the board will be guaranteed working, and the board would be able to be ruled out.
***************edit********************
I just reread the 1st post
That cleared somethings up. rolleyes.gif
Well I guess I have no use for all the switching diodes and resistors I purchased. Oh well......
Can the units be sent out with populated multicolored wires?
Hey now, what kind of attitude is that! tongue.gif Parts are never a waste, you never know when you will need them. Also, the diodes will still be necessary, as there are a couple connections you have to make on the motherboard, regardless of which flasher you use (they are needed for Xell or
whatever you flash to run).
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Dec 20 2009, 09:07 AM)
Well I decided to go about it differently. And probably leave out the ethernet port out and instead
just use some pin headers.
so I am thinking something like this. ****PH is for Pin Header*****
360 motherboard-------->female PH <----male PH---------male PH----> female PH(USB Nand Reader)
AfterTheInsanity........where would you be getting your pinheaders from, as I would like to make
sure to order the same ones so everything fits properly.
hmmmmmmmmm, maybe if you are willing you could offer a deluxe version. A set that comes with the:
*USB Nand reader with female header
*Female header with multicolored wires to connect to the motherboard, with instructions
Example:
------Brown------------>J1D2.1
------Red--------------->J1D2.2
------Orange----------->J1D2.3
etc.........
*A cable with male pin headers on each end to connect the two.
-----the pinheaders could be notched to prevent people from making a improper connection------
Anyway, just a thought. May not be useful for all, but for someone like me that has not yet set up
the JTAG or lpt connections it would provide everything I needed.
If you are willing then count me in for the "deluxe". I could do it myself, but I would prefer
having everything show up in one nice convenient package. Because I'm lazy biggrin.gif
connectors have the holes pre-filled with solder, which means you would have to wick the solder out
of the hole before you could install the pinheader. Normally this isnt that big of a deal, but it
can prove tricky with a low-power soldering iron, and this frustrates a lot of people, and
eventually leads to damaged rings.
The solution is to use a slightly more powerful iron, but this makes it even easier for beginners to
damage the rings. If youre absolutely sure you want headers, I can make up a special board as youve
requested, but I recommend using wires, simply for the ease of soldering (you just heat the hole up
and shove the wire through, versus having to clean it out first). I do understand why youd want
something more removeable for doing multiple boxes, so Id recommend looking into pogo pins.
Basically, they are sharp pins that are spring loaded, the same kind used in solderless modchips. It
would be easy enough to pick up some of them (they come in the same layout as a pinheader in terms
of spacing) and solder the wires to it, and simply have someone hold them against the motherboard
while you read out the NAND. Then you can just let go and use it on something else.
This post has been edited by Alex548: Dec 22 2009, 01:11 AM
Post by: DeathGrind on December 20, 2009, 04:08:00 PM
Post by: bobasp1 on December 20, 2009, 05:28:00 PM
Post by: NADGG106 on December 20, 2009, 06:13:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 20 2009, 10:50 PM)
Here's the list so far. If Ive made any mistakes, just let me know and Ill get it fixed!
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
First off, Id like to thank everyone for all the interest! I never thought there would be as many people as there are interested in these boards - it started off as something Ive been waiting to be able to do for a long time, and I was just proud of the board
Also, just a heads-up, Im heading down to Colorado to check out SFE and Aspen, so my activity on the site will be intermittant between now and Christmas day (when I fly home). I will do my best to check this thread at least once a day, to make sure any questions you guys have get answered. I may also extend the GB close date by a day or two, if there is some interest in that.
---
Now, for the questions; Ive cut down the contents of your reply a bit, to show the question and my answer. If Ive cut too much out, I apologize in advance; just let me know and Ill give you a better answer.
According to Canada Post's website, International lettermail (I plan to ship the boards in padded envelopes to make shipping costs cheaper) is $4.10, and it says that will get it there in 4-7 business days. Unfortunately, Canada Post is stupid, and the next step up in terms of shipping speed is $50 something, which is ridiculous. If youd like it there faster than 4-7 business days, I can arrange for another shipping method (UPS, FedEx, DHL, etc).
Sure thing. I hope to have prices figured out and deposits (if applicable) calculated the day the GB ends, or the day after at the latest. I will make sure to make a clear post on what will be required when that time comes.
The connections from the Flasher to the motherboard should (I says should as the diagrams for the LPT connections are to the same pins, but I only have a Xenon to test on) be the same, it will just be the connections you need to make on the motherboard that will vary. The connections that will need to be made on the motherboard for the Jasper can be found here. You can just ignore the LPT part. I plan on making a small install/connection guide so its easier for everyone to hook up.
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Unfortunately I only have my one testing board, so you will either need to make one yourself if you need it right away, or if you can wait, you will need to join the group buy list.
Its quite easy to install, even if youre a novice, as the points you will need to solder to are relatively large. As I mentioned in an earlier reply, I hope to make up an install diagram. If youd like to see what points you will need to be soldering to, check out the J2B1 and J1D2 connectors on the motherboard. Soldering the flasher to the motherboard is as easy as installing a modchip in an Xbox (not including the D0 wire, of course).
I have no problem shipping anywhere in the world, as long as youre willing to pay shipping (which is implied, as everyone else will need to pay shipping too
) and dont mind the wait time. If youd like it there faster than the typical 4-7 supposed business days that it will take to get there, I have no problem working out an alternate shipping method with you (UPS, FedEx, DHL, etc).Im not sure. Do you have a link?
Once the parts come in, it should only take me about a day to etch the boards and assemble them, so there shouldnt be much of an assembly delay, if there is one at all.
Answered in-quote.
I considered headers in the first prototype, but the problem I came across was that all the connectors have the holes pre-filled with solder, which means you would have to wick the solder out of the hole before you could install the pinheader. Normally this isnt that big of a deal, but it can prove tricky with a low-power soldering iron, and this frustrates a lot of people, and eventually leads to damaged rings.
The solution is to use a slightly more powerful iron, but this makes it even easier for beginners to damage the rings. If youre absolutely sure you want headers, I can make up a special board as youve requested, but I recommend using wires, simply for the ease of soldering (you just heat the hole up and shove the wire through, versus having to clean it out first). I do understand why youd want something more removeable for doing multiple boxes, so Id recommend looking into pogo pins. Basically, they are sharp pins that are spring loaded, the same kind used in solderless modchips. It would be easy enough to pick up some of them (they come in the same layout as a pinheader in terms of spacing) and solder the wires to it, and simply have someone hold them against the motherboard while you read out the NAND. Then you can just let go and use it on something else.
Yes, the wires will be detachable. The header Im using now, I only picked because I didnt leave enough room between the labels and the connector. In the latest revision Ive made a bit more room, so a connector with removeable wires can (and will) be used. The group buy is currently set to finish on Xmas day (when I return from Colorado) so figure a week for parts to arrive and for everything to be assembled. My goal is to have everything built and ready to be shipped on the first full week of the new year.
I answered your questions in the quote.
--
Phew, I think that covered everyone! Have a great holiday.
EDIT Wth? Why are my quotes not quoting?
count me in for a full one how do i join the list??
Post by: Perplexer on December 20, 2009, 06:55:00 PM
Post by: harleywastaken on December 20, 2009, 06:58:00 PM
Post by: moreniu on December 20, 2009, 07:54:00 PM
Post by: Greenvalor7 on December 20, 2009, 08:22:00 PM
Post by: s1lv1a9999 on December 20, 2009, 09:41:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 20, 2009, 10:46:00 PM
QUOTE(brando56894 @ Dec 20 2009, 01:30 PM)
When you were talking about USB headers, USB ports and detachable wires im assuming the detachable
wires would be from the Xbox motherboard to the PCB of the NAND reader and the usb port would be
from the PCB to your computer? Thats the way I'd like to have mine setup if thats not how it already
is.
-- SNIP --
Also when were you going to start selling these? I was planning on starting my attempt at the JTAG
hack in about a week and would like to use your method instead of the LPT port.
leave enough room between the labels and the connector. In the latest revision Ive made a bit more
room, so a connector with removeable wires can (and will) be used. The group buy is currently set to
finish on Xmas day (when I return from Colorado) so figure a week for parts to arrive and for
everything to be assembled. My goal is to have everything built and ready to be shipped on the first
full week of the new year.
QUOTE(rsd @ Dec 20 2009, 04:02 PM)
I'd be interested in a DIY kit if shipping was reasonable within Canada.
Shipping within Canada will be very reasonable, as its going to (hopefully) be shipped as
lettermail, in a bubble mailer. This should keep shipping hopefully around the $5 mark.
Just a few questions:
-Is the 7pin header going to the 360 detachable?
It will be, yes
-What about a small dipswitch for the bootloader mode jumper?
I used a header because I had read that the connection would eventually be used for serial
communication. This way, a wire or a header could be attached to the male connectors. Plus, a header
keeps cost down wink.gif
-Why not use a 12mhz crystal? I read a little of the thread on XBH before it went down and it seemed
like people were having trouble with the resonaters dumping 256/512 jaspers but once they tried a
crystal it worked fine.
Hmm, interesting point. Resonators are less accurate than crystals, so that would be the reason why
a crystal worked when a reso didnt. Im glad you mentioned this - I think I will switch to a crystal
instead of a resonator, just incase!
-Would you mind if some people wanted different components? Maybe someone ones a USB B connector
instead of a 4pin header.
Absolutely not. I was planning on using a USB-B connector anyways, as thats what the majority of the
people interested want I was planning on purchasing the components from http://www.dipmicro.com/store/ . Think hes based out of ontario and buys bulk from digikey/newark. Maybe you can get some stuff cheap from there. Once the GB is finished, all the parts will be ordered in bulk from somewhere like DigiKey or Mouser, to avoid the middleman (like dipmicro) and to keep costs down
QUOTE
count me in for a full one how do i join the list??
I added you to the list 
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Dec 20 2009, 08:35 PM)
Hey how much would it cost for a full one or just a kit thanks and put me on the list as well
QUOTE(s1lv1a9999 @ Dec 20 2009, 11:41 PM)
Please add me to the list too thanks. I will get pre-assembled, unless getting the kit version will mean I get it faster, then I will go that way. Cheers. What is the ETA on when these will be available to be posted? Also, I am in Australia but don't mind paying postage.
Im hoping to have them all assembled, built, and ready to be shipped the first full week of January (the week of the 4th, I think).QUOTE(rastaman108037 @ Dec 21 2009, 12:03 AM)
I'd be interested depending on the price. As long as it's not more than 40$
--
Updated list:
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
14. NADGG106 (X-S)
15. ddxcb (X-S)
16. Perplexer (X-S)
17. harleywastaken (X-S)
18. moreniu (X-S)
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S)
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile
21. rastaman108037 (X-S)
Post by: Darth Soap on December 21, 2009, 05:54:00 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 08:02:00 AM
QUOTE(supes @ Dec 21 2009, 01:34 AM)
Will this allow me to install xbr on my xbox. Also willl instructions be included to explain how to solder to do just that?
) so Im not sure what a lot of things are. Hopefully someone else can answer that for ya!QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 21 2009, 09:08 AM)
Sounds sweet as, put me on the list for the kit.
When a new version of Nandpro comes out I read that you need to reflash the PIC.
What sort of programmer would be needed to reprogram this flasher?
--
Updated list:
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
14. NADGG106 (X-S)
15. ddxcb (X-S)
16. Perplexer (X-S)
17. harleywastaken (X-S)
18. moreniu (X-S)
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S)
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile
21. rastaman108037 (X-S)
22. Darth Soap (X-S)
23. Benno094 (X-S)
Post by: eyric101 on December 21, 2009, 08:29:00 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 08:35:00 AM
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
14. NADGG106 (X-S)
15. ddxcb (X-S)
16. Perplexer (X-S)
17. harleywastaken (X-S)
18. moreniu (X-S)
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S)
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile
21. rastaman108037 (X-S)
22. Darth Soap (X-S)
23. Benno094 (X-S)
24. eyric101 (X-S)
Post by: MasterGouken on December 21, 2009, 09:56:00 AM
Post by: harleywastaken on December 21, 2009, 02:51:00 PM
QUOTE(supes @ Dec 20 2009, 10:34 PM)
Will this allow me to install xbr on my xbox. Also willl instructions be included to explain how to solder to do just that?
this will let you dump and flash your NAND, but you'll still need to solder the JTAG points after dumping and flashing the NAND with XBR.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 02:56:00 PM
QUOTE
this will let you dump and flash your NAND, but you'll still need to solder the JTAG points after dumping and flashing the NAND with XBR.
Thanks for clearing that up! Im going to start on the tutorial either today or tomorrow for connecting the flasher, so Ill be sure to include the JTAG connections aswell.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 03:08:00 PM
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
14. NADGG106 (X-S)
15. ddxcb (X-S)
16. Perplexer (X-S)
17. harleywastaken (X-S)
18. moreniu (X-S)
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S)
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile
21. rastaman108037 (X-S)
22. Darth Soap (X-S)
23. Benno094 (X-S)
24. eyric101 (X-S)
25. MasterGouken
26. utar
27. marten.broadcloak
3 more spots left!
Post by: arielzadi on December 21, 2009, 04:15:00 PM
Post by: dakaku on December 21, 2009, 04:26:00 PM
Your flashers are more professional than mine, I dont etch and so on.
When you have your list full, i have like 4 flashers left, for those who couldnt get your great tool.
Post by: matt186 on December 21, 2009, 04:26:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 22 2009, 12:08 AM)
Updated list:
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
14. NADGG106 (X-S)
15. ddxcb (X-S)
16. Perplexer (X-S)
17. harleywastaken (X-S)
18. moreniu (X-S)
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S)
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile
21. rastaman108037 (X-S)
22. Darth Soap (X-S)
23. Benno094 (X-S)
24. eyric101 (X-S)
25. MasterGouken
26. utar
27. marten.broadcloak
3 more spots left!
pre assembled, preflashed nand reader wanted shipped to the UK again here pls
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 04:35:00 PM
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
14. NADGG106 (X-S)
15. ddxcb (X-S)
16. Perplexer (X-S)
17. harleywastaken (X-S)
18. moreniu (X-S)
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S)
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile
21. rastaman108037 (X-S)
22. Darth Soap (X-S)
23. Benno094 (X-S)
24. eyric101 (X-S)
25. MasterGouken
26. utar
27. marten.broadcloak
28. nemiers
2 more spots!
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 05:44:00 PM
1. kacroet (X-S)
2. kanknast (X-S)
3. geep6 (X-S) - Kit
4. DeathGrind (X-S)
5. firebuddie (X-S)
6. iacon22 (X-S)
7. ericvct (X-S)
8. bobasp1 (X-S)
9. techman36 (X-S)
10. dokworm (X-S)
11. hcaa (X-S)
12. brando56894 (X-S)
13. rsd (X-S) - kit
14. NADGG106 (X-S)
15. ddxcb (X-S)
16. Perplexer (X-S)
17. harleywastaken (X-S)
18. moreniu (X-S)
19. Greenvalor7 (X-S)
20. s1lv1a9999 (X-S) - kit if assembly will take awhile
21. rastaman108037 (X-S)
22. Darth Soap (X-S)
23. Benno094 (X-S)
24. eyric101 (X-S)
25. MasterGouken (X-S)
26. utar (X-S)
27. marten.broadcloak (X-S)
28. nemiers (X-S)
29. matt186 (X-S)
30. TRYMYZ (X-S)
Wow guys! I cant believe all the support. That's a full 30 people, so unfortunately I have to close the GB. Dont fret though! Considering how much interest there was, I will likely run a second GB in a month or so. Im going to draw up the final board tonight, and post it, so if anyone is familiar with PCBs, Id appreciate a second set of eyes, just to double check.
Post by: ProjectSW1 on December 21, 2009, 06:30:00 PM
Post by: Benno094 on December 21, 2009, 06:48:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 21 2009, 11:02 PM)
As far as Im aware, the bootloader only ever needs to be flashed once, which is the hard part. By setting the "Mode" jumper, and connecting to the computer, you can then reflash the firmware using the bootloader without any special programmer! Where did you hear that it will need to be reprogrammed? Im patiently waiting for XBH to come back up, cause I have a question or two of my own.
I'm not too sure where I read that it needs to be reflashed for a new version of Nandpro.
I would like a kit BTW, I love soldering, it's good fun.
I would build the whole kit myself from scratch, but the selection of IC's in Australia is horrible.
All has to come from the states, etc. I also don't have any idea on how to put a PCB together.
Dropped out of TECH before I learnt that one, lol.
*EDIT - Added quote *
Post by: FoxRacR17 on December 21, 2009, 07:17:00 PM
" babies. These would work to read a 512mb jasper's nand and write it with the new XBR that just came out to support big block jaspers correct?
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 08:19:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Dec 21 2009, 07:59 PM)
To let you know ill get o wait Sh!t xmas is on friday man need to get payed
QUOTE(ProjectSW1 @ Dec 21 2009, 08:30 PM)
please contact me when you're ready for the next run of "ready out the box" USB boards please
QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 21 2009, 08:48 PM)
I'm not too sure where I read that it needs to be reflashed for a new version of Nandpro.
I would like a kit BTW, I love soldering, it's good fun.
I would build the whole kit myself from scratch, but the selection of IC's in Australia is horrible.
All has to come from the states, etc. I also don't have any idea on how to put a PCB together.
Dropped out of TECH before I learnt that one, lol.
QUOTE(FoxRacR17 @ Dec 21 2009, 09:17 PM)
MAN! I missed the deadline, Oh well, could you please add me to the list for your next round of these RTR "Ready To Run
" babies. These would work to read a 512mb jasper's nand and write it with the new XBR that just came out to support big block jaspers correct?QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 21 2009, 10:01 PM)
XH is back up.
Just did a bit of searching and found in this post.
http://www.xboxhacke...p?topic=12306.0
Which I assume is where you have derived your flasher from, DarkStarTM has a link explaining that you only have to flash the bootloader once. The link, from Free60, also explains a simple way to reprogram, from windows, it need be. I assume thats why you have put that switch in, which connects pin 17 to ground, to enable you to program it via USB?
Here is the link to that article.
http://free60.git.so...boot/readme.txt
I'm hoping I have it all right? Because that clears it all up for me then.
Benno
* EDIT - Just looked at your schematics, and that is what you have the mode jumper in place for.
Also, is it possible to have a +5V header next to the XBOX header so we can power the XBOX nand via this USB board instead of using the XBOX powersupply? Or is that not n00b friendly and some people might plug in the PS aswell and fry something.
Post by: Benno094 on December 21, 2009, 08:51:00 PM
I just had a look then myself with the multimeter, and found it is only 3.3V. The board would be dropping that voltage I assume as the PS supplies 5V and 12V I think?
I'll have another look with the multimeter, but here are the points.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 09:04:00 PM
QUOTE(JeffJ2 @ Dec 21 2009, 10:42 PM)
Aww looks like i missed the buss, put me down for one on your next run. I live only 1.75H from North York. I don't have any issue paying you via electronic money xfer or paypal. And the best part is your so close itt would be basically next day
I have no need for this really im already flashed and do any nand updates via Gentoo but i sure would like to support your project and have something new to play with QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 21 2009, 10:51 PM)
Couldn't find the photo that someone posted up on XH for the +5v nand souce.
I just had a look then myself with the multimeter, and found it is only 3.3V. The board would be dropping that voltage I assume as the PS supplies 5V and 12V I think?
I'll have another look with the multimeter, but here are the points.
Post by: JeffJ2 on December 21, 2009, 09:13:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 21 2009, 11:04 PM)
Whereabouts are you? I used to live a couple hours out of North York before I moved there for school.
A lil ways out of London Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 09:28:00 PM
QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 21 2009, 11:12 PM)
This here is +5v and that is on the same header used for the programmer, how convenient would that be lol.
I'm just wondering if the voltage would get regulated to the 3.3V needed by the nand or if diodes etc would stop it.
Without trying it I wouldn't know lol. Just a thought. I know some guys would prefer that to lugging around their PS.
* EDIT - May aswell put the picture in
QUOTE(JeffJ2 @ Dec 21 2009, 11:13 PM)
A lil ways out of London
Post by: JeffJ2 on December 21, 2009, 09:47:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 21 2009, 11:28 PM)
Cool! I used to live in Waterford, about half an hour south of Brantford.
Post by: ericvct on December 21, 2009, 10:00:00 PM
Eric
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 10:07:00 PM
QUOTE(JeffJ2 @ Dec 21 2009, 11:47 PM)
Dude half the people i know are in waterford, I used to live in Delhole... er um Delhi haha we are straight from the exact same neck of the woods.
QUOTE(ericvct @ Dec 22 2009, 12:00 AM)
so, when/how/what paypal email address do you want the payments made? I'm sure you'll need some prepayers to help finance this endeavor. BTW, thanks a lot for doing this.
Eric
Post by: FoxRacR17 on December 21, 2009, 10:26:00 PM
AAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNND my 1000'th post, been here for a loooooong time and finally hit 4 digits!
Post by: JackintheXbox on December 21, 2009, 10:26:00 PM
I have that dreaded 256/512mb nand and cant seem to figure out how to dump with USB
If this can be used to dump faster than 20h than add me to you list of people!
How long will it dump 512mb anyway?
I have no problems paying up front.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 21, 2009, 10:29:00 PM
QUOTE(FoxRacR17 @ Dec 22 2009, 12:26 AM)
I know that some people in that list are not going to end up getting one, I have been in numerous group buys (at another forum for my truck) and people always end up backing out last minute. If anyone does, please add me to the list, i will even pay in full up front.
AAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNND my 1000'th post, been here for a loooooong time and finally hit 4 digits!
QUOTE(JackintheXbox @ Dec 22 2009, 12:26 AM)
So you can use this thing to dump Nand faster?
I have that dreaded 256/512mb nand and cant seem to figure out how to dump with USB
If this can be used to dump faster than 20h than add me to you list of people!
How long will it dump 512mb anyway?
I have no problems paying up front.
----
So Im browsing DigiKey, and Ive found everything else I need, but Im having trouble finding the specific connector I want. I want a shrouded male connector that gets soldered to the board, and a cable with individual wires on one end, and a female keyed connector to connect to the shrouded male connector. Preferably color coded. I know I can get them in the city, but I have a feeling theyll be cheaper in bulk on DigiKey. Anyone have any SKUs for me to check out? Itd be greatly appreciated!
Post by: DeathGrind on December 22, 2009, 01:35:00 AM
QUOTE
I want a shrouded male connector that gets soldered to the board, and a cable with individual wires on one end, and a female keyed connector to connect to the shrouded male connector.
so is this how it would connect...
360 motherboard----->female connector <-------male connector(USB Nand reader)
AftertheInsanity, if t is not to much trouble could you make a separate cable to connect the between the two connectors?
360 motherboard--->female connector <---male Connector----female connector---> male connector(USB Nand Reader)
That way I could use this tool for multiple boxes.
If you are not interested or don't have the time to make the interconnect cable, then if you would please, throw in a extra male and female connector so I could make my own. Thanks
Post by: Benno094 on December 22, 2009, 02:10:00 AM
I just finished reading through the google cache(XH is down again) of the original thread, it took ages BTW, and they posted some updated software. This one works with Nandpro2.0b and with 256mb and 512mb jaspers apparently.
PICFLASH_v3b_plus2.zip
NandPro_driver_w32_x64.zip
The second one adds better support for x64 OS's, credits to cory1492 and DarkStarTM from XH.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 22, 2009, 09:36:00 AM
QUOTE(hcaa @ Dec 22 2009, 02:22 AM)
How about just dropping in an ethernet jack instead? Most of us are going to do the external rj45 flash port anyway, and it's cheaper too (component-wise).
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Dec 22 2009, 03:35 AM)
so is this how it would connect...
360 motherboard----->female connector <-------male connector(USB Nand reader)
AftertheInsanity, if t is not to much trouble could you make a separate cable to connect the between the two connectors?
360 motherboard--->female connector <---male Connector----female connector---> male connector(USB Nand Reader)
That way I could use this tool for multiple boxes.
If you are not interested or don't have the time to make the interconnect cable, then if you would please, throw in a extra male and female connector so I could make my own. Thanks
QUOTE(slikk @ Dec 22 2009, 04:00 AM)
Just wondering... I should be able to build this myself using a breadboard and all the components in the wiring diagram, right?
How would I go about programming the PIC once I've done that?
QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 22 2009, 04:10 AM)
I noticed back on the first page of this topic you said that this won't work with Nandpro2.0b.
I just finished reading through the google cache(XH is down again) of the original thread, it took ages BTW, and they posted some updated software. This one works with Nandpro2.0b and with 256mb and 512mb jaspers apparently.
PICFLASH_v3b_plus2.zip
NandPro_driver_w32_x64.zip
The second one adds better support for x64 OS's, credits to cory1492 and DarkStarTM from XH.
Post by: DeathGrind on December 22, 2009, 03:03:00 PM
QUOTE
but with the cable I plan to include, you can just pick up another cable (or I can charge a couple bucks more for interested people and include another one), solder it to the xbox, and leave it there. Then, when you need to flash, you just plug it into the board, flash, unplug and youre done.
Indeed, sign me up for another cable!
QUOTE
The reason I didnt do it this way is because that requires soldering the female connector to the motherboard
I think we are misunderstanding each other. I never planned or wanted to solder a female connector to the motherboard. I always planned on soldering the wires to the motherboard with the female header on the other end. Then make a case modification to allow access to the female connector without having to open the case....because i'm lazy....and I have taken apart xbox 360's too many times.
Then all I would need is a interconnect extension cable to connect the female and male connections together.
I'm not sure if I'm explaining it correctly. I made up a diagram to help clarify. (not a good one, did it in MSpaint)
Does that help clarify?
set up like that i could use it on multiple machines without having to open the case
Like this:
So if you can, with my order, please include two female connection with exposed wires so I can wire them to my 2 xbox's. maybe if you don't mnd keep the wires a little longer as I plan on making the female connector external. Of course the USB nand reader, and if you can (have the time) a interconnect cable.
Thank you AfterTheInsanity,I appreciate you taking time to read this
.
Sorry for taking up so many post's on your thread.
Post by: ddxcb on December 22, 2009, 04:06:00 PM
Post by: ydgmms on December 22, 2009, 04:43:00 PM
Post by: firebuddie on December 22, 2009, 04:43:00 PM
Sorry for the hassle...just thought best to check.
PS Maybe you want to state what xbox mobos your programmer is compatible with or not.
Post by: funkyfish77 on December 22, 2009, 05:16:00 PM
thanks
Post by: DeathGrind on December 22, 2009, 06:13:00 PM
is that pic large enough? You should resize that monster.
Post by: dakaku on December 22, 2009, 06:26:00 PM
QUOTE(firebuddie @ Dec 23 2009, 12:43 AM)
Insanity: I have a Jasper 512. I guess I assumed your device would work with bigblockers - but upon reflection only nandpro20B works for large blocks so if you can't make your programmer work with Nandpro20B then no good to me?
Sorry for the hassle...just thought best to check.
PS Maybe you want to state what xbox mobos your programmer is compatible with or not.
Nandpro 2.0a works well with the big nands and supports the flasher.
Compatible to all mobos, same solder points for all mobos.
Only thing with Nandpro2.0a if you want to write into a file with "nandpro file.bin: ...",
then it looks for the lpt port and canceles.
So to write/read in/from a file you have to use nandpro 2.0b.
AfterTheInsanity: you should include both into your software.rar :-)
For the people from germany only: i have 2 flashers left and i wont build anymore.
I had problems finding 2a, so here is the link click
Post by: Benno094 on December 22, 2009, 07:03:00 PM
QUOTE(ydgmms @ Dec 23 2009, 07:43 AM)
Im interested, but have access to everything. I just need code for whatever gets programmed onto the PIC. Can do the rest myself. Can anyone point me in that direction? Thanks
6 or 7 odd posts ago I posted the latest version of the software you would need to put on the PIC. The first file is the one you need.
QUOTE(firebuddie @ Dec 23 2009, 07:43 AM)
Insanity: I have a Jasper 512. I guess I assumed your device would work with bigblockers - but upon reflection only nandpro20B works for large blocks so if you can't make your programmer work with Nandpro20B then no good to me?
Sorry for the hassle...just thought best to check.
PS Maybe you want to state what xbox mobos your programmer is compatible with or not.
The updated file I posted earlier, that needs to be flashed onto the programmer itself, will allow this flasher to use nandpro2.0b and read/write bigblock jaspers.
@jrh31 - Yes, you can use this to uncripple your HDD, but you are probably better off just using the LPT version of the flasher if you are only going to do one XBOX
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=697231
That post there should lead you in the right direction.
Post by: jrh31 on December 22, 2009, 07:54:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 22, 2009, 08:18:00 PM
QUOTE(kanknast @ Dec 22 2009, 01:07 PM)
thanks man! aftertheinsanity, you'll be able to flash the PIC with these then, instead, right?
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Dec 22 2009, 05:03 PM)
Indeed, sign me up for another cable!
I think we are misunderstanding each other. I never planned or wanted to solder a female connector to the motherboard. I always planned on soldering the wires to the motherboard with the female header on the other end. Then make a case modification to allow access to the female connector without having to open the case....because i'm lazy....and I have taken apart xbox 360's too many times.
Then all I would need is a interconnect extension cable to connect the female and male connections together.
I'm not sure if I'm explaining it correctly. I made up a diagram to help clarify. (not a good one, did it in MSpaint)
Does that help clarify?
set up like that i could use it on multiple machines without having to open the case
Like this:
So if you can, with my order, please include two female connection with exposed wires so I can wire them to my 2 xbox's. maybe if you don't mnd keep the wires a little longer as I plan on making the female connector external. Of course the USB nand reader, and if you can (have the time) a interconnect cable.
Thank you AfterTheInsanity,I appreciate you taking time to read this
.
Sorry for taking up so many post's on your thread.
QUOTE(micl432 @ Dec 22 2009, 05:04 PM)
I'm interested in one of these but it looks like I missed the boat, if theres anyway I can still get one though then great
Otherwise, expect to see another GB on these in a month or soQUOTE(funkyfish77 @ Dec 22 2009, 07:16 PM)
put me down for 1
thanks
QUOTE(jrh31 @ Dec 22 2009, 08:38 PM)
can i use this for hd uncrippling?
QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 22 2009, 09:03 PM)
6 or 7 odd posts ago I posted the latest version of the software you would need to put on the PIC. The first file is the one you need.
The updated file I posted earlier, that needs to be flashed onto the programmer itself, will allow this flasher to use nandpro2.0b and read/write bigblock jaspers.
@jrh31 - Yes, you can use this to uncripple your HDD, but you are probably better off just using the LPT version of the flasher if you are only going to do one XBOX
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=697231
That post there should lead you in the right direction.
--
A couple side points. First off, so far, Im very disappointed with Aspen. Gas is a dollar per gallon more here than it is a few minutes out of town, not a single ski shop in town will rent a Salomon board (of all the places that youd think would have a Salomon board, it should be Aspen, right?), the prices are outrageous ($10 for a hamburger? get the f'ck out), lift tickets are USD $30 more than they are at Tremblant or in BC, and a single private board lesson is $600!!
/rant.
Anywho, Im almost ready to place the order; just lining up the connectors. This means I need moolah! All joking aside, I need the people on the GB list to send payment for the flashers. After all the calculations, Ive decided to charge $30 per board, $4 for shipping within Canada, $5 for shipping in the USA, and $7 anywhere else in the world (via lettermail - if you want it there faster or by courier, I can arrange that).
All payments will be handled through PayPal. This way, if anything goes wrong, and I need to refund anyones money, all it takes is for me to hit the Refund button. If you have any doubts about sending money to me, consider the following: Im a Verified PayPal member, and I have plenty of feedback on many different forums; not to mention 100% eBay feedback (ID: jordan011sk). Ive also been around these forums for over five years now (wow! didnt realize how long its been). If anyone has a problem with or any doubts about sending me money, please send me a PM and we will work something out.
So, for anyone whos on the GB list, please send $30 + shipping (so $34 if you are in Canada, $35 if you are in the USA, and $37 for anywhere else in the world) to [email protected] . Yes, thats Canadian Dollars by the way - it didnt seem fair to me to charge you guys in USD since Im in Canada, so for anyone who lives somewhere with a better dollar than Canada, it will actually be cheaper for you. Please, PLEASE, put "USB-Based NAND Flasher" in the subject line, your X-S username in the little message box thingy, and be sure to include your address so I know where to ship to. If I get a payment that doesnt follow this layout (the subject can be a little off, but still along those same lines) I will refund your payment. I dont want to have to figure out peoples usernames based off emails or names.
Post by: eyric101 on December 22, 2009, 09:47:00 PM
Post by: DeathGrind on December 22, 2009, 10:11:00 PM
QUOTE
Ahhh okay now I understand what you mean. No worries man, I have no problem with people asking questions. My question to you is this - why have a cable to connect the xbox cable to the flasher? The cable Im planning to include will be long enough to feed out the side of the case, so having that extra cable seems almost redundant to me. This is what Im planning to do:
yeah you're right, the extra cable is kinda redundant. But regardless, if you could make me one that I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm just not sure where I'm am going to mount the female connector yet, so the extra cable might come in handy.
So, AfterTheInsanity, I need to pay you, but how much?
I would like:
*USB Nand Programmer
*2 female connectors with wires exposed (one for each 360)
*My Redundant Interconnect cable (if you don't mind making one, if you don't then please include a extra male and female connector)
So all that being said, how much do I owe you?
post here, PM me, or send me a email (I PM'ed it to you the other day)
What do I owe you with the $5 dollar shipping cost included (live in US).
And yeah I have 2 big block jaspers, I also would like to be reassured that this will be compatible.
I will send payment as soon as I know how much I owe with my extras included.
Thanks
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 22, 2009, 10:38:00 PM
QUOTE(eyric101 @ Dec 22 2009, 11:47 PM)
My payment is ready but this has to work with nandpro2b. 2a already messed up my bigblock box. So please tell me the new hex will be flashed and that it works with 2b and the money wil be there a the speed of thought.
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Dec 23 2009, 12:11 AM)
yeah you're right, the extra cable is kinda redundant. But regardless, if you could make me one that I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm just not sure where I'm am going to mount the female connector yet, so the extra cable might come in handy.
So, AfterTheInsanity, I need to pay you, but how much?
I would like:
*USB Nand Programmer
*2 female connectors with wires exposed (one for each 360)
*My Redundant Interconnect cable (if you don't mind making one, if you don't then please include a extra male and female connector)
So all that being said, how much do I owe you?
post here, PM me, or send me a email (I PM'ed it to you the other day)
What do I owe you with the $5 dollar shipping cost included (live in US).
And yeah I have 2 big block jaspers, I also would like to be reassured that this will be compatible.
I will send payment as soon as I know how much I owe with my extras included.
Thanks
QUOTE(Benno094 @ Dec 23 2009, 12:21 AM)
Hey AfterTheInsanity I wanted to get the kit, I piad you the full amount. Was there a discount for the kit still.
I completely forgot about it till now.
---
Also, thanks to XanTium, I can now edit my posts. Therefore, all the GB status info (the list, who has paid, etc) will be moved to the first post.
Also also, Ive finished up the design for v2.0. Ive added them to the first post. If someone could look over them, that'd be great!
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 22, 2009, 11:11:00 PM
QUOTE
Yeah dude that would be good if you could.
Done & done. Thanks!By the way, for anyone waiting on the usage tutorial, its being worked on as we speak. I only have a crappy little Aspire One here with me (instead of my dual 22's back home, along with a competent computer), so its not going as quickly as Id like it to, but it is coming along!
Post by: DeathGrind on December 22, 2009, 11:39:00 PM
Payment sent @ 10:36pm (here in California)
Let me know if everything went smoothly, or if you have any questions.
Thanks again AfterTheInsanity. Looking forward to receiving the flasher.
AfterTheInsanity................Do they even make Vanilla Coke anymore?
Post by: Benno094 on December 23, 2009, 12:25:00 AM
All looks good, I'm not a pro though.
I tried applying 5V to the point from the second pic I posted and it showed 3.3V across the nand.
All good as far as I can tell, just need to read/write the nand to confirm.
Refund came through. Can't wait to see the final product!
Cheers
Benno
Post by: utar on December 23, 2009, 02:16:00 AM
Ok, I have paid via Paypal.
All the best for Christmas by the way.
Utar
Post by: Benno094 on December 23, 2009, 05:32:00 AM
I read somewhere that you can get like spike things that you can hold on there while reading.
But if you could hold them on there somehow without having to hold em lol. That would be better.
Post by: dakaku on December 23, 2009, 05:38:00 AM
QUOTE(utar @ Dec 23 2009, 12:52 PM)
I've been thinking.
How practical would it be to find some sort of header block for the pads on the 360's motherboard and then just holding these in place with tape as given that flashing via usb is quick the connection only needs to be temporary.
The advantage of this would be it would be quick and easy as no soldering would be required. The disadvantage would be if the connections are good enough. I don't suppose anyone has tried this, or can point me in the direction of a header block that has pins in the right place?
Utar
Sounds like a good idea but well there isnt much place to tape. I doubt u will get a good connection if you hotglue it.
So if you want to press it down by hand for 1hour it has to be 1 custom made connector for the two areas
or
you need a modified nandpro which keeps checking for the right flashconfig, then you have time to use both hands.
Edit: My old board didnt have solder in all points, so this could be a problem aswell with a "spiked" connector.
Post by: Benno094 on December 23, 2009, 06:23:00 AM
Looking at these things called pogo pins. here
If you were handy enough you could build a board with the right shape to span the two headers and have some little clips that clip into the southbridge holes. That sounds a bit like a fantasy though ahah. Good in theory.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 23, 2009, 07:25:00 AM
QUOTE
AfterTheInsanity................Do they even make Vanilla Coke anymore?
They stopped selling it in Canada a long time ago, but now that Ive come into the states, I see they have it everywhere
Im planning on picking up a case or two to take home.
Post by: eyric101 on December 23, 2009, 08:21:00 AM
Post by: Greenvalor7 on December 23, 2009, 01:29:00 PM
Post by: moreniu on December 23, 2009, 02:17:00 PM
"Moreno, you have sent a payment of $40.00 CAD to Jordan"
More info in the payment text.
Thanks.
Post by: matt186 on December 23, 2009, 04:46:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 23, 2009, 10:29:00 PM
QUOTE(Loto_Bak @ Dec 23 2009, 04:13 PM)
Can you please add me to the next group buy
Wish I had not I've missed the first one
Put me down for a Kit please!
I'm in canada if it helps
PM for more info
Thanks!
Ive updated the GB list on the front with everyone thats paid so far. If youve paid and its not marked PAID, please PM me. I updated the list based on the emails Ive received. Thanks guys!
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 23, 2009, 10:40:00 PM
Post by: wanny1 on December 24, 2009, 07:52:00 AM
If we are to pay now, how will the discount apply if you get quite a few orders?
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 24, 2009, 08:45:00 AM
QUOTE(farntheplaya @ Dec 24 2009, 12:45 AM)
cool kit
how can i sign up for one?
) Ill likely run another GB, probably in a month or so, so keep your eyes open for that list.QUOTE(wanny1 @ Dec 24 2009, 09:52 AM)
Count me in for one. I'm in the UK.
If we are to pay now, how will the discount apply if you get quite a few orders?
Post by: MasterGouken on December 24, 2009, 08:51:00 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 24, 2009, 09:04:00 AM
Post by: chicco on December 24, 2009, 11:43:00 AM
i'm italian.
can i buy it?
Post by: maximilian0017 on December 24, 2009, 02:15:00 PM
If you havent etched the boards the pins for the serial debug are:
Pin18 = RC7/pic uart rx
Pin17 = RC6/pic uart tx
At the moment we were thinking about the use of an extra pin to change between serial/flash, Cory said this could be done in software to but this has pro's and cons too.
At the moment i was thinking of a jumper from pin 28 to ground for enable/disable, would really like Cory's/Darkstars input on this but they have not replied yet(they are the PIC gurus).
How much would you ask for 2 precut pcb's with shipping to the Netherlands(if you want to sell them at all in this state), and would predrilled or not make a big difference?
Thanks
Maximilian
p.s. XboxHacker has moved to another server i read, should be stable again, and is until now
)
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 24, 2009, 02:53:00 PM
QUOTE(NitroShot @ Dec 24 2009, 12:19 PM)
I'm definitely interested in one of these programers as well, if you have any free ones for the current or next run pm or email me
Thanks!
Mike
QUOTE(chicco @ Dec 24 2009, 01:43 PM)
hi, i would like to buy one complete programmer.
i'm italian.
can i buy it?
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Dec 24 2009, 04:15 PM)
Spoke to Cory1492 some time ago(see Xboxhacker) and he said that the normal RX TX pins can be used for the serial debug.
If you havent etched the boards the pins for the serial debug are:
Pin18 = RC7/pic uart rx
Pin17 = RC6/pic uart tx
At the moment we were thinking about the use of an extra pin to change between serial/flash, Cory said this could be done in software to but this has pro's and cons too.
At the moment i was thinking of a jumper from pin 28 to ground for enable/disable, would really like Cory's/Darkstars input on this but they have not replied yet(they are the PIC gurus).
How much would you ask for 2 precut pcb's with shipping to the Netherlands(if you want to sell them at all in this state), and would predrilled or not make a big difference?
Thanks
Maximilian
p.s. XboxHacker has moved to another server i read, should be stable again, and is until now
)Post by: ddxcb on December 24, 2009, 05:55:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 24, 2009, 07:11:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 24, 2009, 08:22:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Dec 24 2009, 10:14 PM)
The abillity to debug XBReboot like whats loading etc...
I'm not familiar with that. Does it have anything to do with my NAND flasher?
Also, some fantastic news. I finished adding the pin 28 jumper, tx and rx pins, and some other optimizations, and just before I hit save, my piece 'o sh't netbook finally choked on a d!ck and died. it now boots to an 0xED bluescreen. Hopefully I can pull my designs off it when I get home, as I really am not looking forward to starting over.
Post by: ddxcb on December 24, 2009, 08:40:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 24 2009, 08:22 PM)
I'm not familiar with that. Does it have anything to do with my NAND flasher?
Also, some fantastic news. I finished adding the pin 28 jumper, tx and rx pins, and some other optimizations, and just before I hit save, my piece 'o sh't netbook finally choked on a d!ck and died. it now boots to an 0xED bluescreen. Hopefully I can pull my designs off it when I get home, as I really am not looking forward to starting over.
This was i ment Debug
Post by: bobasp1 on December 25, 2009, 02:00:00 AM
Post by: maximilian0017 on December 25, 2009, 08:02:00 AM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 25 2009, 04:22 AM)
Also, some fantastic news. I finished adding the pin 28 jumper, tx and rx pins, and some other optimizations, and just before I hit save, my piece 'o sh't netbook finally choked on a d!ck and died. it now boots to an 0xED bluescreen. Hopefully I can pull my designs off it when I get home, as I really am not looking forward to starting over.
Please read the last post of Cory on XBH, he said:
28 is currently used for KIOSK pin to turn on the console through the python script. Free pins at the moment are 2-7 (on the RA device), 11-12 (on RC, wouldn't bank on being able to use those two), and 18 (also on RC, though this one is part of the uart device if/when used along with 17 which is currenlty used as bootloader mode enable.)
So please take one of there pins.
The option for debugging XBR is just the serial port, nothing special, if someone changes the firmware the flasher can work with it
Post by: crimpshrine on December 25, 2009, 02:17:00 PM
If not let me know when you are taking orders for 2nd batch.
Thanks!
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 25, 2009, 09:17:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Dec 25 2009, 10:02 AM)
Please read the last post of Cory on XBH, he said:
28 is currently used for KIOSK pin to turn on the console through the python script. Free pins at the moment are 2-7 (on the RA device), 11-12 (on RC, wouldn't bank on being able to use those two), and 18 (also on RC, though this one is part of the uart device if/when used along with 17 which is currenlty used as bootloader mode enable.)
So please take one of there pins.
The option for debugging XBR is just the serial port, nothing special, if someone changes the firmware the flasher can work with it
It was your idea to use pin 28:
QUOTE
At the moment i was thinking of a jumper from pin 28 to ground for enable/disable, would really like Cory's/Darkstars input on this but they have not replied yet(they are the PIC gurus).
I dont follow XBH much as it was extremely frustrating trying to get any info when the servers were constantly up and down. Ive broken out the serial pins, which other pin(s) would you recommend that I break out then? I have about a week to play around with the board design before the shipment of parts gets here.
Post by: s1lv1a9999 on December 26, 2009, 04:26:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on December 27, 2009, 01:41:00 AM
Post by: kacroet on December 27, 2009, 09:16:00 AM
Post by: No_Remorse_666 on December 27, 2009, 10:11:00 AM
thanks
NoRE
You can also reach me on irc, efnet #xbox-scene
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on December 27, 2009, 02:27:00 PM
EDIT list has been updated. As always, if you see a mistake, please let me know!
Post by: maximilian0017 on December 27, 2009, 05:43:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 26 2009, 05:17 AM)
It was your idea to use pin 28:
Yes, thats why i said i wanted Darkstar or Cory's advice on this.
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Dec 26 2009, 05:17 AM)
I dont follow XBH much as it was extremely frustrating trying to get any info when the servers were constantly up and down. Ive broken out the serial pins, which other pin(s) would you recommend that I break out then? I have about a week to play around with the board design before the shipment of parts gets here.
With the extra info Cory posted here i would make the following mod:
2 pin Pinhearder on pin 7 and 8 for serial debug jumper. (use Pin 7 as it is close to VSS and would need almost no modification to your board layout.)
Connect 17 and 18 to a resistor each and the other side of the resistors to a 2 pin jumperblock.
Keep in mind that the Debug function is not incorperated into the firmware at the moment, someone needs to program this for it to work, but it would be nice if your boardlayout has this function already layed out.
XBH has been up since the Server migration and i only saw it down once for maintenance.
If you want to be sure of your layout please post it at XBH, will try to help if possible.
Post by: rastaman108037 on January 28, 2010, 09:29:00 AM
Edit: Wait, since 5 people in front of me are crossed out, does that make me lucky number 16?
This post has been edited by rastaman108037: Jan 28 2010, 05:31 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on January 28, 2010, 01:17:00 PM
I have edited the first post and highlighted people with green to reflect whos had their flasher shipped out. To be fair, I went by order of payment (anyone can say "I want one" but its more business-like to go by who paid first). Time to go work on the rest of the flashers!
This post has been edited by AfterTheInsanity: Jan 28 2010, 09:17 PM
Post by: dragonz2444 on January 28, 2010, 03:47:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on January 28, 2010, 04:44:00 PM
its already been 18 days past your original deadline.....
Post by: ddxcb on February 02, 2020, 05:55:00 PM
QUOTE(brando56894 @ Jan 28 2010, 04:44 PM)
Im pretty disappointed that I was number twelve and remember paying fairly early but still have to wait x amount days more until you get the rest of this batch fixed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) its already been 18 days past your original deadline.....
Ya Join the Club (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 02, 2020, 07:06:00 PM
Ive learnt quite a few things from doing these flashers, and the next batch will be ordered and built out-of-pocket, and they will be assembled and tested before I take any money from anyone, to avoid any disappointment.
Post by: ddxcb on February 02, 2020, 07:59:00 PM
Post by: Darth Soap on January 28, 2010, 08:26:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Jan 29 2010, 01:06 PM)
If you guys would like a refund so you can purchase a flasher from someone else I have no issue at all giving out refunds; I realize Im way past the original due date, and I apologize profusely for that. However, the issues Ive been having are not by choice - if it were up to me everything would have been shipped out a long time ago.
Ive learnt quite a few things from doing these flashers, and the next batch will be ordered and built out-of-pocket, and they will be assembled and tested before I take any money from anyone, to avoid any disappointment.
What about the rest of the first batch that didnt work? Are you just going to make new ones?
Post by: k0mpresd on February 02, 2020, 08:39:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on January 28, 2010, 09:15:00 PM
QUOTE(Darth Soap @ Jan 28 2010, 10:26 PM)
What about the rest of the first batch that didnt work? Are you just going to make new ones?
I plan on making them work, either by figuring out why these boards didnt work, or just making new boards. I just wanted to get the first batch out so that absolutely everyone wasnt sitting on their hands, waiting.
Post by: DeathGrind on January 30, 2010, 05:36:00 AM
QUOTE
The first batch has been shipped out!
Thank you! Sorry to hear about the non functional boards.
Post by: rastaman108037 on January 30, 2010, 03:01:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Jan 28 2010, 11:15 PM)
I plan on making them work, either by figuring out why these boards didnt work, or just making new boards. I just wanted to get the first batch out so that absolutely everyone wasnt sitting on their hands, waiting.
If you were to throw out a guess on ETA for the new boards, what would you say? I want to mod another xbox, but doing it via LPT is a PiTA.
Post by: bobasp1 on January 31, 2010, 07:26:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Jan 28 2010, 06:06 PM)
If you guys would like a refund so you can purchase a flasher from someone else I have no issue at all giving out refunds; I realize Im way past the original due date, and I apologize profusely for that. However, the issues Ive been having are not by choice - if it were up to me everything would have been shipped out a long time ago.
Ive learnt quite a few things from doing these flashers, and the next batch will be ordered and built out-of-pocket, and they will be assembled and tested before I take any money from anyone, to avoid any disappointment.
No worries I got classes starting up, so I don't have time for 360 anymore. As soon as you get them working ill be waiting and not really paying attention
. Just remember I payed extra for another cable to hook to mobo
Post by: ddxcb on January 31, 2010, 10:10:00 PM
Post by: harleywastaken on February 01, 2010, 08:20:00 PM
Post by: harleywastaken on February 01, 2010, 11:28:00 PM
as far as i can tell the KIOSK wire is optional (please correct me if i'm wrong), and skipping that one you can just go down the line, the next 4 wires are in order .1 .2 .3 .4, then the last two are .5 and .6. i was having some issues with the provided wire, just soldered some smaller wire to them and everything's working great!
Post by: JeffJ2 on February 02, 2010, 07:35:00 AM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Jan 28 2010, 09:06 PM)
If you guys would like a refund so you can purchase a flasher from someone else I have no issue at all giving out refunds; I realize Im way past the original due date, and I apologize profusely for that. However, the issues Ive been having are not by choice - if it were up to me everything would have been shipped out a long time ago.
Ive learnt quite a few things from doing these flashers, and the next batch will be ordered and built out-of-pocket, and they will be assembled and tested before I take any money from anyone, to avoid any disappointment.
No worries take your time, you can even ship mine absolutely last (if im not already) so some one else has a shot at getting it faster. I just wanted one as a toy. you're not putting me in a hard spot waiting on it to home brew Ive learnt quite a few things from doing these flashers, and the next batch will be ordered and built out-of-pocket, and they will be assembled and tested before I take any money from anyone, to avoid any disappointment.
I'm already home brew hehe.Post by: drcrobe on February 02, 2010, 08:18:00 AM
By the way good job on the boards they look nice and well made...
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 02, 2010, 08:47:00 PM
All the flashers are fully functional! They are being wrapped in anti-static wrap tonight, then packaged and shipped tomorrow. Sorry I havent been replying to PMs, Im not on the computer much right now, I will get to it!
Post by: Darth Soap on February 02, 2010, 09:16:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on February 02, 2010, 11:37:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 03, 2010, 01:07:00 AM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Feb 2 2010, 07:47 PM)
All the flashers are fully functional! They are being wrapped in anti-static wrap tonight, then packaged and shipped tomorrow. Sorry I havent been replying to PMs, Im not on the computer much right now, I will get to it!
AWESOME! Cant wait to finally put XBR on my Jasper. Good work on figuring it out. What was the problem anyways?
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 03, 2010, 07:49:00 AM
Post by: ronj75 on February 03, 2010, 11:39:00 AM
I noticed in the thread someone was asking for a solderless solution idea. I remember my xecuter for my xbox1 was a pogo. the hard part was that it was only one screw to hold it so it would eventually slip because of vibration, etc..
but since the 360's solder points are not in one specific spot you could probably get away with it and use two screw points to hold it down.
Would be one pretty big board though lol.
I noticed you just sent out the boards recently i was curious if there were any left? just started researching the jtag and would love to get one of these.
Thanks for your time..
Ronj75
Post by: ddxcb on February 03, 2010, 12:31:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 03, 2010, 12:31:00 PM
However, Im also playing with the idea of a solderless solution, like the old pogo-pin modchips of the Xbox era, so keep your eyes open for that aswell
Post by: ddxcb on February 03, 2010, 06:51:00 PM
Post by: NADGG106 on February 03, 2010, 07:44:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 03, 2010, 09:35:00 PM
I will add this link to the main page. And all the flashers have been shipped out as of today.
Post by: NADGG106 on February 03, 2010, 10:24:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Feb 4 2010, 05:35 AM)
Pinouts are here.
I will add this link to the main page. And all the flashers have been shipped out as of today.
also this is my first time doing this and is there drivers to put in soo far i got nandpro2.0a pointed the flasher to config in there and cmd prompt " nandpro usb: -r16 nand1.bin and i get cannot detect a flash controller any help would be nice im moving to laptop too see if that helps
Post by: dogged on February 04, 2010, 06:41:00 AM
Thanks.
Post by: MasterGouken on February 04, 2010, 09:28:00 AM
Post by: utar on February 04, 2010, 12:25:00 PM
Just seems to be a bit of a problem in that when I plug it in my PC doesn't recognise any new hardware although the power LED lights up. I don't have it connected to the 360.
Should the jumper be on any of the pins?
Utar
This post has been edited by utar: Feb 4 2010, 08:28 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 04, 2010, 05:15:00 PM
QUOTE(NADGG106 @ Feb 4 2010, 12:24 AM)
also this is my first time doing this and is there drivers to put in soo far i got nandpro2.0a pointed the flasher to config in there and cmd prompt " nandpro usb: -r16 nand1.bin and i get cannot detect a flash controller any help would be nice im moving to laptop too see if that helps
Use Nandpro 2.0b. Also, make sure the power cable of your 360 is plugged into the wall and the 360.
QUOTE
Hi received mine in the post today.
Just seems to be a bit of a problem in that when I plug it in my PC doesn't recognise any new hardware although the power LED lights up. I don't have it connected to the 360.
Should the jumper be on any of the pins?
Utar
This is the problem I was having with some later boards. The jumper doesnt need to be connected for it to boot. Try this: pour some rubbing alcohol (IPA 70-99%) into a bowl, and after removing the IC, dip the entire board in alcohol (you just need enough to get the board wet, you dont need to fill the bowl. Just seems to be a bit of a problem in that when I plug it in my PC doesn't recognise any new hardware although the power LED lights up. I don't have it connected to the 360.
Should the jumper be on any of the pins?
Utar
Then, using a nylon-bristled brush like this, lightly brush the bottom, being careful around the capacitors on the bottom (it may be helpful to stand the ceramic cap up straight). Dip the board in alcohol again and brush it once more. Then set it on a plate (or a piece of cardboard, or anything) and put it in your oven.
Turn the heat on to the lowest setting, and wait a couple minutes. Then remove the flasher, put the IC back in (there us a U shaped mark in the socket and on the board, to indicate which end of the IC goes where), and plug it back into your computer. It should be recognized. If not, let me know asap.
This goes to anyone else who might (hopefully not!) experience this problem.
Post by: rastaman108037 on February 04, 2010, 08:22:00 PM
Post by: ronj75 on February 04, 2010, 09:44:00 PM
please add me to the list when you get a chance to make more.
Post by: rastaman108037 on February 04, 2010, 09:57:00 PM
QUOTE(ronj75 @ Feb 4 2010, 11:44 PM)
can i just say how much i hate all you guys that got one? LOL
please add me to the list when you get a chance to make more.
You magically have 0 posts, your opinion is invalid.
I'm actually waiting for mine, he just sent em out.
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 04, 2010, 11:29:00 PM
QUOTE(rastaman108037 @ Feb 4 2010, 08:57 PM)
You magically have 0 posts, your opinion is invalid.
I'm actually waiting for mine, he just sent em out.
Its because hes probably just registered to post in this thread, and anything you post in the BST does not count toward your post count. Which is why he is still at 0
Post by: Br0k3R on February 05, 2010, 11:59:00 AM
Post by: ericvct on February 05, 2010, 11:59:00 AM
I am using an already jtagged 360 ( I've done a couple via lpt, with the network cable port mod), and I can read the nand at will via lpt, so i know my 360 is wired right, and all solder connections are good. Any ideas what I am doing wrong, or how to fix this?
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 05, 2010, 12:38:00 PM
QUOTE(ericvct @ Feb 5 2010, 01:59 PM)
Hey, I got my board in the other night, and I can not get nandpro to detect the flash controller. I tried the trick you mentioned above (alcohol, scrub and bake), and still have no luck. Windows recognizes it fine, drivers load fine, and the little light shines, but nandpro does not like it. I even tried it on 2 pcs and a laptop, all with the same results. What can I do to get this working correctly?
I am using an already jtagged 360 ( I've done a couple via lpt, with the network cable port mod), and I can read the nand at will via lpt, so i know my 360 is wired right, and all solder connections are good. Any ideas what I am doing wrong, or how to fix this?
If the board is recognized but Nandpro doesnt recognize the flash controller, I suspect there is an error in wiring, or possibly a cold joint/hairline fracture. It definately wouldnt hurt to check continuity - take a multimeter, and probe one of the wires, and the corresponding leg of the PIC chip (if you have a hard time following the connection there is a schematic in the first post). You should read ~100ohms for every wire, except MISO, which should read ~0ohms. If you get no continuity on one, then the corresponding trace is bad, and needs to be re-soldered.
Also, you say youve done the network cable port mod - did you include the resistors, diodes, etc inside the case? I ask because the wires from my flasher must go directly to the motherboard - the necessary resistors are on-board.
This post has been edited by AfterTheInsanity: Feb 5 2010, 08:43 PM
Post by: rastaman108037 on February 05, 2010, 01:43:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Feb 5 2010, 02:38 PM)
If the board is recognized but Nandpro doesnt recognize the flash controller, I suspect there is an error in wiring, or possibly a cold joint/hairline fracture. It definately wouldnt hurt to check continuity - take a multimeter, and probe one of the wires, and the corresponding leg of the PIC chip (if you have a hard time following the connection there is a schematic in the first post). You should read ~100ohms for every wire, except MISO, which should read ~0ohms. If you get no continuity on one, then the corresponding trace is bad, and needs to be re-soldered.
Also, you say youve done the network cable port mod - did you include the resistors, diodes, etc inside the case? I ask because the wires from my flasher must go directly to the motherboard - the necessary resistors are on-board.
Are you using Nandpro 2.0b? The original Nandpro doesn't do USB.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 05, 2010, 02:53:00 PM
QUOTE(rastaman108037 @ Feb 5 2010, 03:43 PM)
Are you using Nandpro 2.0b? The original Nandpro doesn't do USB.
Nandpro throws a different error is there is no device hooked up or if the usb device isnt recognized by nandpro (as with older firmware and nandpro revisions) - I assume hes getting this far into the program because it recognizes the flasher, so I made the assumption that he's using 2.0b
This post has been edited by AfterTheInsanity: Feb 5 2010, 10:55 PM
Post by: ronj75 on February 05, 2010, 08:40:00 PM
Awesome job on these boards.. i'd love to see what your smd models will look like.
as far as a pogo version ive seen people soldering on the bottom of their board for some of the jtag connections. would using the existing screw holes work for it? just use a longer screw and maybe two small boards connected with a single cable.
Post by: MasterGouken on February 05, 2010, 09:07:00 PM
QUOTE(utar @ Feb 4 2010, 09:25 PM)
Hi received mine in the post today.
Just seems to be a bit of a problem in that when I plug it in my PC doesn't recognise any new hardware although the power LED lights up. I don't have it connected to the 360.
Should the jumper be on any of the pins?
Utar
I have this too, will try the IPA clean and oven trick tomorrow.
Post by: moreniu on February 05, 2010, 09:16:00 PM
Post by: ddxcb on February 05, 2010, 09:40:00 PM
QUOTE(moreniu @ Feb 5 2010, 09:16 PM)
Not trying to rush or anything but did you already send all items? Like, I am from Brazil so it might take a while to land over here, but would be nice to know if it is already on the way!
Ur name is green so yes.
Post by: utar on February 06, 2010, 01:13:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Feb 5 2010, 02:15 AM)
Use Nandpro 2.0b. Also, make sure the power cable of your 360 is plugged into the wall and the 360.
This is the problem I was having with some later boards. The jumper doesnt need to be connected for it to boot. Try this: pour some rubbing alcohol (IPA 70-99%) into a bowl, and after removing the IC, dip the entire board in alcohol (you just need enough to get the board wet, you dont need to fill the bowl.
Then, using a nylon-bristled brush like this, lightly brush the bottom, being careful around the capacitors on the bottom (it may be helpful to stand the ceramic cap up straight). Dip the board in alcohol again and brush it once more. Then set it on a plate (or a piece of cardboard, or anything) and put it in your oven.
Turn the heat on to the lowest setting, and wait a couple minutes. Then remove the flasher, put the IC back in (there us a U shaped mark in the socket and on the board, to indicate which end of the IC goes where), and plug it back into your computer. It should be recognized. If not, let me know asap.
This goes to anyone else who might (hopefully not!) experience this problem.
Well it took two cycles but the flasher is now recognised by Windows. I used a hair dryer instead of the oven as I guess this stage was just to make sure the board was dry.
Utar
Post by: ddxcb on February 06, 2010, 03:12:00 PM
Post by: NADGG106 on February 06, 2010, 03:16:00 PM
Post by: NADGG106 on February 06, 2010, 05:03:00 PM
Post by: Aldanga on February 06, 2010, 05:28:00 PM
Post by: utar on February 06, 2010, 05:38:00 PM
QUOTE(Aldanga @ Feb 7 2010, 02:28 AM)
You can't have the JTAG wiring still on the console if you've flashed back the original NAND to your console. It won't boot with those wires installed.
No, the official fw will boot fine with the jtag wiring.
Utar
Post by: ddxcb on February 06, 2010, 07:40:00 PM
QUOTE(NADGG106 @ Feb 6 2010, 05:03 PM)
i flashed orig.bin back to falcon and it gives error 74 w jtag wires is that what ur supposed to get cuz orig wont boot w jtag or am i jus in a deeper hole now cuz i got e74
Thats sucks, happend to me
Post by: Aldanga on February 06, 2010, 07:46:00 PM
QUOTE(utar @ Feb 6 2010, 06:38 PM)
No, the official fw will boot fine with the jtag wiring.
Utar
I've read exactly the opposite from guys on XBH. Maybe I missed something, but that's what I remember.
Post by: ericvct on February 07, 2010, 12:28:00 AM
On a side note, if for whatever reason, the usb flasher ever needs an upgrade or a reflash, do you have a tutorial on what exactly needs to be done (jumpers or connection changes) posted anywhere on line? I like to know these things, just in case.
Post by: gaming fanboy on February 07, 2010, 01:00:00 AM
QUOTE(ericvct @ Feb 7 2010, 08:28 AM)
Thanks guys, i forgot about the diode. Removed it and it now dumps, but with a ton of errors. I am getting closer
I'll play with it more tomorrow.On a side note, if for whatever reason, the usb flasher ever needs an upgrade or a reflash, do you have a tutorial on what exactly needs to be done (jumpers or connection changes) posted anywhere on line? I like to know these things, just in case.
99 percent would say that you wont need a upgrade on the flasher.. if so, you'd need to get the PIC plugged into a programmer and flash the new file.. no sweat man, the things solid and u prolly wont need a update
Post by: rastaman108037 on February 07, 2010, 05:58:00 AM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 6 2010, 09:40 PM)
E74 has nothing to do with JTAG bro. E74 means your box is toast.
Post by: skinlayers on February 07, 2010, 08:42:00 AM
Thanks a bunch of making these!
Thanks,
skinlayers
Post by: Mach1n3 on February 07, 2010, 10:03:00 AM
Count me in for the next batch!
Post by: death69inc on February 07, 2010, 01:51:00 PM
tried dif pcs dif usb cables resoldering lol i give up here my results with other dumper
1 box dumped great 1st try
12 to 15 tries to write clean finally was able
next 1
30+ bad dumps got tierd of trying went back to lpt no issues with lpt
now 3rd with usb
20+ tries to get good dumps now have maybe good matching dumps
30+ still no good writes *!@$)*$&!*)&*)!$%
601 prog error random blocks ....wonder if wire legnth has anything to do with it like lpt hmmm his wire is about 8 to 10 inches to the dumper I may try that
sorry for the run on
so if yours work and are stable put me on list im loosing more time with this usb than lpt lol
This post has been edited by death69inc: Feb 7 2010, 09:55 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 07, 2010, 05:28:00 PM
QUOTE(gaming fanboy @ Feb 7 2010, 03:00 AM)
99 percent would say that you wont need a upgrade on the flasher.. if so, you'd need to get the PIC plugged into a programmer and flash the new file.. no sweat man, the things solid and u prolly wont need a update
Even easier than that! There's a three-pin male header on the board with a little jumper attached - you just join the "join to reflash" pins and plug the board in with USB. It shows up in bootloader mode and you run a program and pick a new hex file to flash. Then you take the jumper off and it runs it. A PIC programmer is never needed
(unless you want to upload the BL which isnt necessary for most people, ever)QUOTE(death69inc @ Feb 7 2010, 03:51 PM)
bought mine from someone else nad having nothing but issues with it so add me to the list for next batch
tried dif pcs dif usb cables resoldering lol i give up here my results with other dumper
1 box dumped great 1st try
12 to 15 tries to write clean finally was able
next 1
30+ bad dumps got tierd of trying went back to lpt no issues with lpt
now 3rd with usb
20+ tries to get good dumps now have maybe good matching dumps
30+ still no good writes *!@$)*$&!*)&*)!$%
601 prog error random blocks ....wonder if wire legnth has anything to do with it like lpt hmmm his wire is about 8 to 10 inches to the dumper I may try that
sorry for the run on
so if yours work and are stable put me on list im loosing more time with this usb than lpt lol
Sometimes Ive had to try 2-3x but thats the most to get a good read. So I guess Id consider it pretty stable.
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 08, 2010, 11:46:00 PM
Post by: DeathGrind on February 09, 2010, 03:10:00 AM
QUOTE(FoxRacR17 @ Feb 8 2010, 10:46 PM)
Just saw that nandpro 2.0c was released. Since I haven't received my flasher in the mail, anyone try it with this flasher?
I was wondering the same thing.
I received my flasher but I am 200 miles away from it. Haven't even used it yet. Hopefully sometime this week I will get around to it.
But yes, I was wondering the same.
QUOTE
Update: I've been informed there's a bug in this version, a fix will be released shortly. Please do not use this version!!
A new version of NandPro(info) has been released, the original cmd-line tool that allows you to read/flash the Xbox360 NAND via LTP or USB:
What's new/fixed:
* Bit settling verify feature added for LPT reading
* Add support for Jasper16a
* Improved detection for virtual nand device, fixes some problems with writing to vnand.
* Always corrects the ECC bytes (but not SPARE), even in raw mode
ie: A raw file that has been hex edited can simply be flashed with -w
* Added command line swithces
%r will read SPARE data only, 16 bytes per block
@w will write RAW file, while correcting block numbers
Can "force" a flash config on command line by appending :HexFlashConfig
Official Site: By Tiros at free60.org (thx to WarriorSan for the news)
Download: (removed until update/fix is released)
A new version of NandPro(info) has been released, the original cmd-line tool that allows you to read/flash the Xbox360 NAND via LTP or USB:
What's new/fixed:
* Bit settling verify feature added for LPT reading
* Add support for Jasper16a
* Improved detection for virtual nand device, fixes some problems with writing to vnand.
* Always corrects the ECC bytes (but not SPARE), even in raw mode
ie: A raw file that has been hex edited can simply be flashed with -w
* Added command line swithces
%r will read SPARE data only, 16 bytes per block
@w will write RAW file, while correcting block numbers
Can "force" a flash config on command line by appending :HexFlashConfig
Official Site: By Tiros at free60.org (thx to WarriorSan for the news)
Download: (removed until update/fix is released)
huh, nevermind.
This post has been edited by DeathGrind: Feb 9 2010, 11:13 AM
Post by: rastaman108037 on February 09, 2010, 02:25:00 PM
And the blue LED is blindingly bright...lol.
When it pops up in windows it says "MemoryAccess", but finds no drivers for it
Edit: Nevermind. Custom.inf in Nandpro. Gotchya.
This post has been edited by rastaman108037: Feb 9 2010, 10:38 PM
Post by: ddxcb on February 09, 2010, 04:57:00 PM
hopefully tomarow.
Post by: bobasp1 on February 09, 2010, 06:35:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 09, 2010, 08:15:00 PM
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 9 2010, 05:35 PM)
I got mine today, but I Need to find an install diagram for each 1 with each color. Thanks
Yup mine was waiting for me when i got home from work also. Cant wait to try it out, but I do need to find a wiring diagram somewhere
Post by: ddxcb on February 09, 2010, 10:00:00 PM
(IMG:http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5898/topyx.png)
Diagram
Post by: rastaman108037 on February 09, 2010, 10:24:00 PM
Post by: bobasp1 on February 09, 2010, 11:46:00 PM
Possibly for this specific build.
I mean like I know how to do the soldering no prob, but I have no clue where to place the wires to the board it self and if there's any extra wires that needed to get added on that permanently stay on that specific 360. Like xbox to xbox instead of xbox to detachable wire thingy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif).
This post has been edited by bobasp1: Feb 10 2010, 07:52 AM
Post by: rastaman108037 on February 10, 2010, 12:01:00 AM
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 10 2010, 01:46 AM)
No I meant like if someone had a picture of the mobo and what color wire goes where
. Since the wires and be unplugged from the flasher it self.Possibly for this specific build.
I mean like I know how to do the soldering no prob, but I have no clue where to place the wires to the board it self and if there's any extra wires that needed to get added on that permanently stay on that specific 360. Like xbox to xbox instead of xbox to detachable wire thingy
.The board that dd posted goes with the link he posted under the board. Basically it goes like this
Kiosk(1st wire) - Ground (I used J2B1.11 since it's an easier solder)
Mosi (2nd wire) - J1D2.1
SS(3rd wire) - J1D2.2
SCK(4th wire) - J1D2.3
MISO(5th wire) - J1D2.4
EJ (6th wire) - J2B1.5
XX (7th wire) - J2B1.6
It says it right on your board, so take a look.
Also would like to add that this USB thing works great! How awesome it was to do 2 reads with no errors, and a write in less time than it took for one LPT read (with 10+ errors, sometimes 1000+ errors depending on if I breathed on it wrong). AftertheInsanity I am going to name my firstborn after you. It's going to be a weird name, but hey no big deal.
Post by: bobasp1 on February 10, 2010, 12:20:00 AM
QUOTE(rastaman108037 @ Feb 9 2010, 11:01 PM)
The board that dd posted goes with the link he posted under the board. Basically it goes like this
Kiosk(1st wire) - Ground (I used J2B1.11 since it's an easier solder)
Mosi (2nd wire) - J1D2.1
SS(3rd wire) - J1D2.2
SCK(4th wire) - J1D2.3
MISO(5th wire) - J1D2.4
EJ (6th wire) - J2B1.5
XX (7th wire) - J2B1.6
It says it right on your board, so take a look.
Also would like to add that this USB thing works great! How awesome it was to do 2 reads with no errors, and a write in less time than it took for one LPT read (with 10+ errors, sometimes 1000+ errors depending on if I breathed on it wrong). AftertheInsanity I am going to name my firstborn after you. It's going to be a weird name, but hey no big deal.
Ok thanks, You wouldn't happen to know of a picture that has the points on the 360 it self labeled ;D. Like yeah I was searching for the J1D2.1 from google to see if it would come up with any diagrams but no real luck for me :/
Oh and I was lookn at the free60 page but yeah http://imgur.com/Fdjmi.png wrong picture or just completely gibberish to me that I'm going to need to understand before I even attempt it.
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 07:19:00 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 10, 2010, 07:24:00 AM
Post by: bobasp1 on February 10, 2010, 09:36:00 AM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Feb 10 2010, 06:24 AM)
When I get home (or if I have time at school today) Ill draw up a diagram with colored dots indicating where each wire goes.
Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 12:27:00 PM
Post by: bobasp1 on February 10, 2010, 02:19:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 11:27 AM)
Got my flasher today and got a crap load of ? what does join to serial do ?
It let's you detach. The flasher from the 360 with quick attachment to keep it safe and allows use of multiple 360s. That's why I wanted to know about what color goes where
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 03:21:00 PM
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 10 2010, 02:19 PM)
It let's you detach. The flasher from the 360 with quick attachment to keep it safe and allows use of multiple 360s. That's why I wanted to know about what color goes where
mmm no, not what im asking and stop being lazy.
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 04:20:00 PM
QUOTE(ericvct @ Feb 6 2010, 11:28 PM)
Thanks guys, i forgot about the diode. Removed it and it now dumps, but with a ton of errors. I am getting closer
I'll play with it more tomorrow.On a side note, if for whatever reason, the usb flasher ever needs an upgrade or a reflash, do you have a tutorial on what exactly needs to be done (jumpers or connection changes) posted anywhere on line? I like to know these things, just in case.
What diode you talking about? I'm having the exact same issue as you were, windows recognizes it, i can install the drivers for it, it shows up as "memory access" in device manager, but nandpro does not recognize a usb flash controller
EDIT: And i should add that I have already checked all the points between 1-7 on the connector and the IC chip and all they all read back at their appropriate ohms. Right now i'm trying the alcohol/brush/oven trick, but I dont see why nandpro wont detect it if all the connections seem to check out.
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 04:54:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 05:05:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 03:54 PM)
you have to install the driver for the usb spi flasher.
I thought i did already, when windows detected new hardware I told it to look in the nandpro folder and use the custom.inf. Is there something else i'm missing? I have triple checked the connections from the 360 mobo to the legs of the IC chip and all the ohms match.
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 05:55:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 06:23:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 04:55 PM)
idk then u used custom drivers and it work, im soldering pin connectors and after i heatshrink tubes it ill test the flasher.
I'm using the drives that are provided with nandpro, i thought those were the ones to use
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 07:00:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 07:06:00 PM
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 07:10:00 PM
Drivers
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 07:19:00 PM
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 07:26:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 07:28:00 PM
"nandpro usb: -r2 c1.bin"
"nandpro usb: -r512 c1.bin"
"nandpro usb: -r256 c1.bin"
and nandpro still will not find the flash
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 07:33:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 07:52:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 06:33 PM)
PSU connected and powered.
Correct, PSU plugged into the wall and plugged into 360 but 360 not powered on
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 07:57:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 08:05:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 06:57 PM)
made sure wires are solder to the right spot.
have checked it over probably about 10 times, and verified with a multimeter on the bottom of the board all the way back to the IC chip and they are all connected
Thanks for trying to trouble shoot with me BTW, i really appreciate it.
EDIT: and I have already tried it both ways but i figure i will ask anyways, should i connect the 3 wires/2 diodes that the jtag requires to run BEFORE or AFTER i read the nand/flash xell?
This post has been edited by FoxRacR17: Feb 11 2010, 04:08 AM
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 08:14:00 PM
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 08:20:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 07:14 PM)
The SMC aka jtag wires dont matter its just for running the hack aka xell and try removing wire 1 as i didnt solder it bc no need to use as of now.
thats what i thought about the jtag.
what do you mean wire 1? the kiosk or the mosi wire?
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 07:14 PM)
The SMC aka jtag wires dont matter its just for running the hack aka xell and try removing wire 1 as i didnt solder it bc no need to use as of now.
DUDE THAT FUCKING DID IT, I unsoldered the ground wire from the 360 mobo, ran nandpro and BAM! its reading the nand as i type this. thanks for all the help man!
Post by: ddxcb on February 10, 2010, 08:32:00 PM
QUOTE(FoxRacR17 @ Feb 10 2010, 08:20 PM)
thats what i thought about the jtag.
what do you mean wire 1? the kiosk or the mosi wire?
DUDE THAT FUCKING DID IT, I unsoldered the ground wire from the 360 mobo, ran nandpro and BAM! its reading the nand as i type this. thanks for all the help man!
Kiosk wire is should be wired to J2B1.11 which isnt ground, and glad to be help XD.
Post by: FoxRacR17 on February 10, 2010, 08:40:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 10 2010, 07:32 PM)
Kiosk wire is should be wired to J2B1.11 which isnt ground, and glad to be help XD.
Yeah i tried the Kiosk wire soldered to .11 and .12 but neither worked. Right now its dumping the whole 512 nand with the kiosk wire not attached to anything. I'm so happy, i was messing with this thing for about 6 hours, thanks again boss!
Post by: Benno094 on February 10, 2010, 11:53:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 11 2010, 10:00 AM)
got mine wired up and test dump it works like a charm but still woundering what is "Join to serial" do lol the other is to reflash the chip.
Hey, I think the serial is for debugging? But it is not implemented in the firmware yet. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Here is a quick diagram I threw together for wiring up the flasher.
(IMG:http://members.iinet.net.au/~kar.ben/images/random/360%20flasher.jpg)
Post by: ddxcb on February 11, 2010, 07:04:00 AM
QUOTE(Benno094 @ Feb 10 2010, 11:53 PM)
Hey, I think the serial is for debugging? But it is not implemented in the firmware yet. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Here is a quick diagram I threw together for wiring up the flasher.
thanks but that wont help me bc im color blined XD thats y i did the eazyer way.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 11, 2010, 07:05:00 AM
QUOTE
DUDE THAT FUCKING DID IT, I unsoldered the ground wire from the 360 mobo, ran nandpro and BAM! its reading the nand as i type this. thanks for all the help man!
Where did you have a ground wire hooked up? There shouldnt need to be one
Post by: brando56894 on February 11, 2010, 01:06:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 11, 2010, 01:41:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 11 2010, 11:12 AM)
the forth part i lol it should be connected to pin J2B1.11 and when i get homw how do i boot the xbox with the flasher ?
KIOSK controls that functionality. I believe there is a python script on the picflash GIT, here:
http://free60.git.so...?p=free60/tools
Also, the main post has been updated with a couple diagrams.
Post by: badass74 on February 11, 2010, 05:58:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on February 12, 2010, 12:33:00 AM
I checked my connections and they look fine, althought xp does keep making the sound as if something is randomly being unplugged and replugged its always in the same pattern (dun-dun-dun in quick succession and then the unplug chime), sometimes it wont connect at all (windows doesnt make a chime)
The bubble keeps popping up and it says "usb device not recognized", if I mess around with the jumpers add new hardware comes up and asks for drivers for "MemoryAccess".
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 12, 2010, 05:21:00 AM
Post by: brando56894 on February 12, 2010, 10:15:00 AM
When I tried to read the NAND it gives me the same problem that I had with the LPT "couldnt detect flash controller"
edit: just tried it again for the hell of it and shes dumping right now!!!
edit 2: while i was doing a second dump i jostled the connection by accident and nandpro stopped reading, so I disconnected and reconnected the usb and when I did "found new hardware" came up and this time it says "USB Device" and custom.inf wont install it, any idea what I need?
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 12, 2010, 11:17:00 AM
)EDIT Flashing software added to main post.
Brando, if youre still having issues where it gets stuck in bootloader mode, try this:
- download the flashing software I uploaded
- run the exe
- select the only one in the list from the drop down menu
- hit load hex file, and pick "Firmware v3b plus2.hex" (was in the archive)
- click program device
Now, with the jumper still off, unplug it and plug it back in. If it STILL shows up in bootloader mode, go back to the PICDEM Tool I had you run earlier, select the board, and click 'Execute'. It should switch modes.
Post by: brando56894 on February 12, 2010, 01:51:00 PM
usb device". I get out of work in like 45 mins so im gonna screw around with it some more when I get back to my apartment.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 12, 2010, 02:04:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on February 12, 2010, 04:58:00 PM
Should I reflash it with the stuff you posted above?
Edit: ive been trying to get it in a steady state so I can reflash it but it will connect in either flasher or bootloader mode for a few seconds and disconnect, it keeps on doing that...
Post by: ddxcb on February 12, 2010, 07:09:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 12, 2010, 07:12:00 PM
):- take a brush or q-tip and apply a small amount of flux along the usb traces and crystal traces. Ive highlighted them for you in this image
- then, take your soldering iron and apply a small amount of solder to the tip - remember, too little is always better than too much
- now, run the tip along the traces, melting the solder there and reflowing it. be sure to heat the pins of the usb connector and the socket well, incase there is any oxidization causing bad joints (the flux will help with this).
Post by: brando56894 on February 12, 2010, 07:26:00 PM
QUOTE(ddxcb @ Feb 12 2010, 09:09 PM)
Are you using a high end USB-B cable ?
im using a gold plated cable i bought from staples about 5 years ago when I first bought my printer and came to college
edit: I noticed that the wire going from inside to the front rf panel was busted so i resoldered it and turned the xbox on and got 2 red lights and no video output, i figured it was probably because the dvd wasnt connected so i connected it and now I have 3 red lights (top left, bottom left, and bottom right) and no video output.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 12, 2010, 08:01:00 PM
And the incompatible thing likely has to do with how its being spoofed as its not a proper fix (not my work). Resetting it would re-spoof and allow it to be used again.
Post by: brando56894 on February 12, 2010, 08:12:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 13, 2010, 10:01:00 AM
Have you flashed the correct Xell? Also, what diagram are you using? Is it this one?
Because you're seeing the E79 screen, the zero pair image worked as intended. But the JTAG command was not received by the GPU, causing the normal boot to continue and end at the point it tries to fetch files from the flash. This likely means your flash is good, but the JTAG wires arent. Id start there. If you get really stuck, post up some high-res pictures and Ill have a look
Post by: brando56894 on February 13, 2010, 12:11:00 PM
I also found this guide which uses xellous and seems to be pretty comprehensive.
I think my JTAG Wiring might be the problem because when I originally soldered the wires DB1F1 was a major pain in the ass to get connected and my father and I tried the alternate site (which I initially had connected). I switched it back to DB1F1 but dont know if Im getting a good connection or not.
heres some pics of the JTAG wiring:
http://img294.images.../dsc01033w.jpg/ J2D2
http://img180.images.../dsc01032q.jpg/ J2D2
http://img28.imagesh.../dsc01031x.jpg/ RF Unit
http://img517.images.../dsc01030n.jpg/ DB1F1
the last one if DB1F1 and the small hole in front of the diode arrow is the alternate point that we drilled through the board so it would be secure (it didnt cause any problems because we did this a month ago and everythings been fine)
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 13, 2010, 12:28:00 PM
Also, for the J2D2 points, Id recommend picking up some flux - it will help the joints that look like they were hard to solder
Finally, Id recommend not drilling through any more PCBs. While I cant confirm that its causing this specific problem, there are many buried signal layers that you cant see - so while it may look okay to drill where there are no traces, there may be traces buried in the board that youre damaging.
It does look like E79 is a common problem with falcons though, so dont stress too much. Itll get figured out eventually
EDIT Also, Ive seen a couple reports about using a diode instead of the resistor (or wire). Try putting a diode in place, and if it doesnt work, turn it around and try again. Never know
EDIT 2 Make sure youre using the shortest wires possible. Ive found a DB1F1 alt point if youd like to try it:
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 13, 2010, 12:52:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on February 13, 2010, 12:57:00 PM
I was really against drilling through the board but my father's an electrician and said it should be fine, after we visually inspected everything I decided to go with it, still not feeling completely sure about it. I was thinking about soldering the wire to a trace like others suggested in other threads but just realized I dont have a small enough torx head to get the motherboard out. Ill try out your location instead when I get the board out.
Do you know of an alternate point for the RF Unit? the wire is outside of the case and easily gets broken, I saw one before but cant remember where.
I'll try the diode method you suggested and let you know what I found.
Edit: I put the diode in and the first time w/o the dvd drive connected i booted it with the power button and 3 were green and then went to blinking red. I connected the drive and booted it with the power button and it still blinked red. I switched the diode, connected the dvd drive and booted it with the power button and still got three red. I booted it with the eject button and it went from 4 solid green to three solid green and then to 3 blinking red. Still no video output for any of the attempts.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 13, 2010, 01:18:00 PM
I dont know of a point off-hand, sorry, but I did google it and came across your original thread
Free60 has an IRC channel that I got help in before, theyd likely know of an alternate point. Or you could try xboxhacker.net, theres a lot more technical info there.
Good luck!
Post by: brando56894 on February 13, 2010, 03:13:00 PM
Edit: I went back to DB1F1 cuz I can get it connected now and when I did so It gave me two red lights for a few seconds then back to three.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 13, 2010, 03:49:00 PM
brando, Id try making a post on xboxhacker.net with some better-quality pictures; unfortunately Im only familiar with my xenon and I can only really help you by searching and regurgitating. hope you get it going!
Post by: brando56894 on February 13, 2010, 03:56:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on February 14, 2010, 05:22:00 PM
Heres my thread just fro reference sake.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 14, 2010, 06:58:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on February 14, 2010, 07:59:00 PM
Post by: Darth Soap on February 15, 2010, 06:13:00 AM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 15, 2010, 10:06:00 AM
http://forums.xbox-s...&...t&p=4633260
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 15, 2010, 01:30:00 PM
Post by: Darth Soap on February 15, 2010, 06:27:00 PM
Got my flasher working, although i have a dead 360 wont boot or anything flashed the wrong XBR image (with LPT) onto my falcon (flashed xenon *sigh*) and now i have a dead 360 can't short out nand or anything. Was wondering if i can use this new flasher to fix it somehow?
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 15, 2010, 11:03:00 PM
And yes, you should be able to fix that by plugging the xbox in and simply reflashing a backup to the nand (if I understand your problem correctly).
Post by: selfser on February 16, 2010, 09:22:00 AM
So is there gonna be a next round to be sold or no? I have read through a lot of posts and my eyes are starting to hurt. If there is going to be a next round, I would love to be included. I am quick on the payment and have no prob waiting til the next batch is ready to go. Let me know. Thanks
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 16, 2010, 12:18:00 PM
Long answer: the first batch took way more time, money, and effort than I planned, and I put off a lot of personal stuff during the first batch, so Im taking some time right now to catch up, and Nathan of SparkFun is helping me with the next revision, all of which takes time too. Finally, once I do send the gerbers out, it will be at least a few weeks before the actual boards come in, and then I have to populate and test them.
However, this time, Im not going to be taking anything more than 'Im interested' until I have the boards ready to ship. To prevent people from getting pissy that its taking longer than it should (which I can understand, but at the same time, being pissy doesnt get the job done faster), Im not going to take any sort of pre-order or money up front until they are ready to ship.
Phew.
Post by: Greenvalor7 on February 16, 2010, 12:36:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 16, 2010, 12:40:00 PM
It is possible that yours was the one that had the 'To' label come off -> I started the site to figure out whos this was
Post by: Darth Soap on February 16, 2010, 04:48:00 PM
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Feb 16 2010, 05:03 PM)
Darth, when I went "^^" I was referring to the post directly above (JeffJ2).
And yes, you should be able to fix that by plugging the xbox in and simply reflashing a backup to the nand (if I understand your problem correctly).
I can't do that because its not showing up in nandpro due to it being dead. So i've bought a Cygnos360 that should fix my problem
QUOTE(AfterTheInsanity @ Feb 17 2010, 06:40 AM)
I expected most of the flashers to be delivered by now, but my list is less than half received, which surprises me.
It is possible that yours was the one that had the 'To' label come off -> I started the site to figure out whos this was
It's possible that more than one came off. Because mine was half way off when i received, so i was lucky.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 17, 2010, 07:54:00 AM
Can you explain how exactly its 'dead'?
Post by: brando56894 on February 17, 2010, 09:04:00 AM
Post by: brando56894 on February 17, 2010, 09:52:00 PM
I did clean up some stray solder but I cant tell if my FT1U2 Trace is clean or not (meaning not grounding out)
Post by: DeathGrind on February 18, 2010, 01:25:00 AM
I'm not the best at this stuff but, it looks to me that your traces are gone. There is clearly a large gap in your pic, and also a small one next the point. You need to rebuild those traces.
EDIT*
I just took a look at your pics.
I have no idea why you have a resistor in you JTAG wiring. With the AFI's flasher you should only need switching diodes (I could be mistaken, I'm doing mine tomorrow)
There are a lot of things wrong. Best bet is just look over the wiring diagram and do it all over.
Post by: DeathGrind on February 18, 2010, 09:44:00 PM
Currently I am doing a 256mb jasper, up next is a 512mb jasper.
Will post back with results when I am done.
Post by: eyric101 on February 18, 2010, 09:58:00 PM
That pad is solid, just hard to keep from touch the neighbors. A steady hand can do and little chance that pads comming off.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 19, 2010, 07:06:00 AM
EDIT saw your post about it working; thats great! If it works, dont touch anything
Post by: bobasp1 on February 19, 2010, 04:34:00 PM
(no external resistors or diodes needed for the flasher - you still need the respective parts for the JTAG connections)
*files and such to flash the 360 or actual wires that go from 360 to 360 to bypass something allowing you to use the hack?
Post by: Julets on February 19, 2010, 04:34:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 19, 2010, 05:20:00 PM
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 19 2010, 06:34 PM)
lame >_> cant edit... anyways I didn't rember about this in the description, but anyways here's what im interested in.
(no external resistors or diodes needed for the flasher - you still need the respective parts for the JTAG connections)
*files and such to flash the 360 or actual wires that go from 360 to 360 to bypass something allowing you to use the hack?
Xenon Diagram:
Falcon, Zephyr, Opus & Jasper Diagram:
QUOTE(Julets @ Feb 19 2010, 06:34 PM)
What was the exact resonator you're using?
Who, me?
Post by: Xtreme69 on February 19, 2010, 09:08:00 PM
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 19 2010, 09:06 PM)
so for the J1F1 points use a 330ohm resistor on each point
No they are not resistors, that is the symbol for diodes
j1f1-diode-wire- j2d2 for the 2 spots
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 19 2010, 09:06 PM)
and the j2d2.1 to .2 just kynar wire?
yes if you mean J2D2.4 to .7
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 19 2010, 09:06 PM)
yes I believe the 4148 would be acceptable, but I could be wrong about the #, I do know they need to be switching diodes
Post by: bobasp1 on February 19, 2010, 09:44:00 PM
QUOTE(Xtreme69 @ Feb 19 2010, 08:08 PM)
No they are not resistors, that is the symbol for diodes
j1f1-diode-wire- j2d2 for the 2 spots
yes if you mean J2D2.4 to .7
yes I believe the 4148 would be acceptable, but I could be wrong about the #, I do know they need to be switching diodes
thank you
Post by: DeathGrind on February 19, 2010, 10:48:00 PM
AfterTheInsanity, I have a question. I noticed that the flasher works great in a 32bit system, but I can not get it to work in a 64bit OS (windows 7). Do you by chance have or know where to obtain 64bit drivers for your flasher? Thanks.
Off topic, but might as well ask. I tried to play dante's inferno and it asked me for a update. Is it safe or should a i look into how to remove the update from the game. Anyone playing this game with xbreboot? Thanks.
Post by: Lewie4 on February 20, 2010, 07:16:00 AM
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Feb 20 2010, 05:48 AM)
Off topic, but might as well ask. I tried to play dante's inferno and it asked me for a update. Is it safe or should a i look into how to remove the update from the game. Anyone playing this game with xbreboot? Thanks.
Its safe to update
Post by: moreniu on February 20, 2010, 09:06:00 AM
Post by: Greenvalor7 on February 20, 2010, 04:05:00 PM
Post by: Julets on February 20, 2010, 07:36:00 PM
QUOTE(bobasp1 @ Feb 21 2010, 01:21 AM)
?? What ?? Why did you post a link about diodes?
I have everything for the flasher besides the xtal and caps. I'm not EE inclined so I'm not sure which ones to get. I'm using mouser.com to buy these last 3 components, but not sure what they are listed as on the site. Looking at the pics, it looks like he replaced the resonator with 2 caps and a "XTAL" as I've seen suggest on other sites, just not too sure which XTAL and caps to get.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 20, 2010, 11:28:00 PM
QUOTE(DeathGrind @ Feb 20 2010, 12:48 AM)
I got my jasper 256MB flashed with xbreboot. Awesome. Next up in a few days is my 512mb jasper.
AfterTheInsanity, I have a question. I noticed that the flasher works great in a 32bit system, but I can not get it to work in a 64bit OS (windows 7). Do you by chance have or know where to obtain 64bit drivers for your flasher? Thanks.
Off topic, but might as well ask. I tried to play dante's inferno and it asked me for a update. Is it safe or should a i look into how to remove the update from the game. Anyone playing this game with xbreboot? Thanks.
Id assume it would be safe with XBR but just to be safe you should remove R6T3.
For the drivers, unfortunately I run x86 so I didnt need x64 drivers. Check out xboxhacker.net - if you dont mind, when you find them, please let me know so I can add them. Thanks!
QUOTE(Julets @ Feb 20 2010, 11:41 AM)
AfterTheInsanity, what is the part number for the resonator you are using?
Any 12MHz crystal and appropriate load caps will do, I specifically used Mouser part # 815-AB-12-B2 and 33pF load caps.
Post by: Greenvalor7 on February 23, 2010, 06:00:00 PM
So the flashers where sent out on Jan28th. Brando56894 commented on the Feb 17th that he was having trouble using his flasher. Then how is it possible that brando56894 who lives in Jersey received his flasher on or before Feb 17th yet I live in upstate NY and I haven't received mine yet? Toronto to Jersey is 343 miles/551 km (air) and Toronto to Syracuse(45min away) is 168 miles/270 km (air)
Post by: bucko on February 24, 2010, 12:49:00 PM
Edit, I can pay now if it would encourage you =D
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on February 25, 2010, 07:20:00 AM
QUOTE(Greenvalor7 @ Feb 23 2010, 08:00 PM)
@AfterTheInsanity
So the flashers where sent out on Jan28th. Brando56894 commented on the Feb 17th that he was having trouble using his flasher. Then how is it possible that brando56894 who lives in Jersey received his flasher on or before Feb 17th yet I live in upstate NY and I haven't received mine yet? Toronto to Jersey is 343 miles/551 km (air) and Toronto to Syracuse(45min away) is 168 miles/270 km (air)
QUOTE(bucko @ Feb 24 2010, 02:49 PM)
When is some more available if u have an estimate, I'm having trouble with the printer side of the connection, this might be better for me..
Edit, I can pay now if it would encourage you =D
Post by: moreniu on February 25, 2010, 11:32:00 AM
Post by: Greenvalor7 on March 01, 2010, 04:58:00 PM
Post by: Greenvalor7 on March 05, 2010, 10:07:00 AM
Post by: moreniu on March 14, 2010, 10:27:00 PM
My flasher was working just fine, flashed 3 boxes already very fast and perfectly, not a single bad block from all reads... but now I am trying to dump this falcon nand and I keep getting error 218 reading all blocks... What am i doing wrong?
Post by: moreniu on March 14, 2010, 10:38:00 PM
Thanks again @op, I will let you use my brother when you come to Brasil.
<(///_-)>b
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on March 15, 2010, 08:35:00 PM
So a new development in the next batch of flashers occured today...
The PCBs came in! I ordered ten as it was only a few dollars more (just a small amount for the first run). Im going to have one assembled tomorrow afternoon and hopefully the design is solid.
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on March 15, 2010, 10:04:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on March 17, 2010, 05:45:00 PM
Post by: AfterTheInsanity on March 20, 2010, 08:34:00 AM
Post by: viper0831 on March 22, 2010, 02:55:00 PM