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I just got Xenon with CB 1903 today. Installed JTAG hack with 2x diodes method, flashed XBR.bin, and dash starting fine, but xell does not.
Flashed xell.bin - console is dark, not even green light...So i got no CPU key to go further.
Will 3x 330ohm instead of 2 diodes help for that? I just wanted to get this xbox working, for fun, for me, but to work, or any other clues? Flashing xell-1f/2f/others didnt help too, but hacked dash is still running fine
It was virgin when i got it, i was the first to broke seal on case and DVD, plus it had zero dust on mobo/fans, like it was just new from factory...
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QUOTE(fryc88 @ Apr 7 2013, 07:37 PM)

I just got Xenon with CB 1903 today. Installed JTAG hack with 2x diodes method, flashed XBR.bin, and dash starting fine, but xell does not.
Flashed xell.bin - console is dark, not even green light...So i got no CPU key to go further.
Will 3x 330ohm instead of 2 diodes help for that? I just wanted to get this xbox working, for fun, for me, but to work, or any other clues? Flashing xell-1f/2f/others didnt help too, but hacked dash is still running fine
It was virgin when i got it, i was the first to broke seal on case and DVD, plus it had zero dust on mobo/fans, like it was just new from factory...
Follow this method except the only difference for xenon is where you connect to the motherboard..
http://www.se7ensins...box-360.545795/
then for xenon
http://www.google.co...c.1.oxYhzRcYgko
click on the first picture that says mod.boxer to see the setup for xenon and where to connect on motherboard.
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This is based on the falcon jtag exploit, and instead of the resistors, we are using two diodes (I have been told that 1n914 switching diodes work for this). This is supposed to be a better method than the 3x330 ohm resistors method.
the original quote from the xboxhacker thread
QUOTE
While I agree that the resistors arent the optimum solution, the current >xenon wiring is indeed very safe. (It doesn't use resistors at all). In fact the 2 signals that you are concerned about are already "pulled up" to Vgpu and the SMC can only pull them low for jtag. There is no possibility of overdrive whatsoever, and those parts can be left in with no harm.
To that end, xenon users should also implement the new level shifting scheme too, as it is electrically superior, and uses less parts.
For xenon use:
j2d2.7---------j2d2.4 (jumper wire)
j1f1.3---|<----j2d2.1
j1f1.4---|<----j2d2.2
and my diagram:

and an alternate diagram using actual images of diodes instead of symbols: http://imgur.com/ptWYM.png
the source image is from: http://www.xbox-scen.../blaster360.php
So, I will be rewiring my box with this method when my new 30 awg wire arrives in the mail. If I have made an error in the diagram, please let me know so that I may fix it!
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It looks much cleaner, that's for sure. Other than it being electrically inferior, what are the chances the resistor method will burn something up? I've powered on my modified Xenon 12 dozen times with the 330ohm resistors still in it and have yet to see any sort of problem.
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QUOTE(Reznik Akime @ Oct 14 2009, 05:22 PM)

It looks much cleaner, that's for sure. Other than it being electrically inferior, what are the chances the resistor method will burn something up? I've powered on my modified Xenon 12 dozen times with the 330ohm resistors still in it and have yet to see any sort of problem.
I honestly don't know. If you want to talk to someone more knowledgeable about it, ask Tiros on xh if there is any risk with the resistors.
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I don't have an account there. Should make one though. Either way I'm not all that worried about it. Thanks for making this diagram though, as I have TONS of these diodes and no more resistors. This will save my lazy self from having to drive 30 miles to the nearest Rat Shack to get anymore.
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and here's a picture of my xenon wired up like in the diagram
Please excuse the shitty soldering, I wanted to make sure that it works (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://imgur.com/e9gJc.jpg)
I can confirm that it works.
Good luck!
This post has been edited by Mad_Gouki: Oct 16 2009, 06:14 PM
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here's a new giant wiring guide for both the new jtag wiring for xenon, and the lpt port for the nand.
click for the large image.
(IMG:http://imgur.com/U93J1l.jpg)
This post has been edited by Mad_Gouki: Oct 17 2009, 07:34 AM
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Thanks again for this. I went ahead and replaced the 330ohm resistors with the diodes anyway out of nothing but boredom. Definitely will be using this in the future for anything else.
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Hi. I did this mod yesterday on my xenon with dash 7371, using 1N4148 diodes.
While dumping the nand with nandpro i get an error 'Error: 25C reading block 2D2'.
The reading continued after i got the error and I ended up with an image of 16896kb.
I dumped the nand two more times, but always got the same error message.
How do I check that this image is valid?
I don't want to flash and end up with a bricked console.
Any help is apreciated. Thanks.
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if it is your original nand dump and not flashed with xell then it should open up in degraded with the 1bl key(do not ask for it as it is forbidden to post here, google is your friend) and show files inside the .bin as well. Opening it up in a hex editor and it show © Microsoft Corporation 200X(where X is the copyright date) is a good sign as well of a good dump. Regardless make as many dumps as you can to be sure you have a good one before flashing the nand in the 360 with a new one because on of those dumps may indeed work.(I did around 9 and put them all in folders with the date I extracted them and the order of extraction to keep organized)
Also when you do decide to write back to the nand the SMC information from the last console power on is still in there and will corrupt the nand you just flashed onto the 360. So to fix this unplug your console for like 5-10 minutes to clear any smc data after writing your nand to your 360 then plug it back in and enjoy. I failed to do this and had got a E71 error which I described how to fix in this thread/tut I made a while back, and where I got the fix from:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=694245
Anyway hope it works out for you steina (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
This post has been edited by red_ring_of_box: Nov 24 2009, 11:13 PM
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This is my first time trying the JTAG/Xell hack. I wired up my Xenon using this method and nothing happens. The soldering is fine, not a problem. All wires are inside the holes and not ontop of or resting on the holes. Plugged into my computer, all I get is:
Testing LPT device address:0378
Testing LPT device address:0278
Testing LPT device address:03BC
Could not detect a flash controller!
Can not continue
What's the problem?
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that has nothing to do with the 3 jtag points it has to do with the ltp (parallel port) not being hooked up right you try using a dioed or trying with/without the resisters
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QUOTE(niai @ Dec 2 2009, 05:18 PM)

that has nothing to do with the 3 jtag points it has to do with the ltp (parallel port) not being hooked up right you try using a dioed or trying with/without the resisters
I am totally redoing my soldering at the moment. Ill let you know how it goes, if it still doesn't work ill take pictures and show them here. I bet it's something stupid I did wrong and im not catching it 
I tried with and without the diode that connects to pin 11 on the LPT end. From what im reading, I will need the resistors on as I am trying to dump the Nand and then write Xell/XBReboot back to it.
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I have done multiple xenon recoveries with the LPT port. However, each one I do, I use an 1888 File from the usual places. I make sure the LDV values are good to go, but each one I have done says type 1 OSIG unknown, which is suppose to mean any drive should work with the system. However, it only seems that hitachi's are working for me. I go into the F/w and flash the key sector, and it works.
I would like to know how to do this on a samsung or benq... is it possible? I manually spoof the key and that does not seem to work (but the same key works with the hitachi's even though OSIG is unknown on the nand dump) I have tried FW tool box... Doesn't work either.
I have googled my eyes out and cannot figure out why it wont work the Benq or sammy. Any ideas? And is it possible to change the OSIG on the nand dump? Link a Tutorial if you know of one. Thanks!!!
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I like the 3 x 330 ohm resistor wiring, never had a problem with it. Also to write Nand i use 47ohm resistors and not 100ohm, i found 100ohm was too high causing erratic reads.
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Hi
I'm just tryed read a nand and everything look's good but never get a same results.
I did a couple of times but never same the dump's. just only 1-2 row diferent
compare with total com.
any idea what do i wrong?
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I dunno if this helps anyone...
I bought a LPT Cable (Nikkai LPT Parallel Printer Cable [L79BT]) from Maplins.
Changed the massive pic to a link
Here is the output:
[***] Pin 1 ------------------------------ Yellow
[***] Pin 2 ------------------------------ Pink Black
Pin 3 ---------------------------------- Pink
Pin 4 ---------------------------------- Orange Black
Pin 5 ---------------------------------- Orange White
Pin 6 ---------------------------------- Orange
pin 7 ---------------------------------- Red Black
Pin 8 ---------------------------------- Red White
Pin 9 ---------------------------------- Red
Pin 10 -------------------------------- Brown White
- Pin 11 ---------------------------- Brown
Pin 12 -------------------------------- Black White
Pin 13 -------------------------------- Black
[***] Pin 14 ---------------------------- White
Pin 15 -------------------------------- Grey Black
[***] Pin 16 ---------------------------- Grey
[***] Pin 17 ---------------------------- Purple White
- Pin 18 ---------------------------- Purple
Pin 19 -------------------------------- Blue White
Pin 20 -------------------------------- Blue
Pin 21 -------------------------------- Green (Different)
Pin 22 -------------------------------- Green Black
Pin 23 -------------------------------- Green White
Pin 24 -------------------------------- Green
Pin 25 -------------------------------- Yellow Black
This post has been edited by StrictPuppet: Jan 15 2010, 10:20 AM
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Hello there, i'm looking for kindly help, i've a problem writing back my original nand into my xbox board, i think there can be some bad block in my nand i don't know how it happened, is there a way to verify bad blocks?, my board doesn't start anymore and i'd like to recover it in some way, the problem is for sure the nand, anytime i dump it gives to me a different result but reading and writing processes show up no errors so everything seems to be right, i don't have the jtag installed, just the lpt one and i've tried out with and without the diode.
Perhaps my nand has blown up and perhaps could be a way to recover or substitute it.
Any help appreciated, thanx in advance guys!
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I just set up the JTAG wires as shown in the diagram. How do I tell if it worked? one tutorial says it wont boot up when JTAG wires are in place but my xbox still boots up, it just takes about 15 seconds. I have a Xenon board with a CB version of 1903.
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you really need that pic that big?
good post though.....nice addon .....for the cable at least......as long as the wires ain't to lard to solder...
This post has been edited by under420dog: Dec 14 2009, 05:26 AM
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some11...can you let me know how then wires work out ...

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@under420dog
I did PM a mod to edit the post so I could make it smaller..
Anyway - that wire work fine for me! (=
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I am just about ready to do the JTAG hack, but i only have acces to 68 ohm resistors and 120 ohm resistors.
Will these do for the JTAG hack ?? I am completely unable to find and/or buy 100's , either locally or on the net.
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QUOTE(BladeWing @ Jan 15 2010, 03:38 PM)

I am just about ready to do the JTAG hack, but i only have acces to 68 ohm resistors and 120 ohm resistors.
Will these do for the JTAG hack ?? I am completely unable to find and/or buy 100's , either locally or on the net.
are you kidding?, worse case try fleabay
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QUOTE(worf65 @ Dec 14 2009, 07:06 AM)

I just set up the JTAG wires as shown in the diagram. How do I tell if it worked? one tutorial says it wont boot up when JTAG wires are in place but my xbox still boots up, it just takes about 15 seconds. I have a Xenon board with a CB version of 1903.
i got the same problem with my xenon here (CB 1903 LDV0)...
tried new diodes method but did not work (no xell/xbr booting), only green light and blank screen.
flashed the original nand image back and it booted to nxe 7371 like normal.
did some research and found some people did not succeed with new diodes method and suggest to switch back to old 330 ohm resistors trick.. http://360mods.net/i...a...ic&p=129110
tried the old 330 ohm resistors trick but still no go for xell or xbr.
flashed the original nand image back and it booted to nxe 7371 like normal.
fyi, i have good connection of lpt and verified my original nand image with degraded v1.1 which showed only one bad block (error 205 reading block 234) and has been remapped to the spare area in XBR image...
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I have this to,just flashed xell for xenon1921 to my xenon cd 1921,and black screen ,green light,My nand dump has no badblocks,my jtag conections are fine there in no way of any bad soldering.I'm using the new method with diodes, I dont understand why its not working:( .... maybe I will try with the 330ohm resistors.
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I just flashed xell once again, this time I'v changed the name of the xell file from "xenon_1921hack.bin" to "xell.bin" and now it works!!!
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Can someone help me please, i understand everything but one thing what may make me come across stupid.
is there a certain type of diodes to use?
i need to purchase them soonish but one website tells me to use 1N914, another tells me to use 1N4148 and another one tells me to use both :S
Going by this image:

what ones do i need and what one will go on the yellow and what one will go on the blue?
never used diodes before in my life so i dont know what one i need.
Thanks for any help.
Liam
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QUOTE(t3h4 @ Jan 28 2010, 04:40 AM)

tried new diodes method but did not work (no xell/xbr booting), only green light and blank screen.
flashed the original nand image back and it booted to nxe 7371 like normal.
I had a similar issue with a falcon last week, it would not boot with the XBR nand flashed, but would with the original nand flashed.
If you are using the latest version of nandpro, when writing to the nand replace -w16 with *w16
In nandpro 2.0d automatic checksum (error correction) calculation was disabled, the above just re-enables it. Fixed XBR on my falcon.
ex.
wrong: CODE
nandpro lpt: -w16 XBR.bin
right: CODE
nandpro lpt: *w16 XBR.bin
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QUOTE(L14M333 @ Mar 15 2010, 04:04 PM)

Can someone help me please, i understand everything but one thing what may make me come across stupid.
is there a certain type of diodes to use?
i need to purchase them soonish but one website tells me to use 1N914, another tells me to use 1N4148 and another one tells me to use both :S
Going by this image:

what ones do i need and what one will go on the yellow and what one will go on the blue?
never used diodes before in my life so i dont know what one i need.
Thanks for any help.
Liam
The diodes for both the yellow and blue line are 1N914/1N4148 (they are switching diodes). I bought my 10 pack of those diodes at RadioShack for $1.49. On each diode, there is a dark/black strip, which is direction to solder diode on that Xenon diagram.
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QUOTE(SlickWilly440 @ Mar 16 2010, 05:53 AM)

The diodes for both the yellow and blue line are 1N914/1N4148 (they are switching diodes). I bought my 10 pack of those diodes at RadioShack for $1.49. On each diode, there is a dark/black strip, which is direction to solder diode on that Xenon diagram.
Hello, thanks for your help.
this is the one i think you have: http://www.radioshac...oductId=2062587
im in the UK and on either ebay or maplins all i can find is one or the other :S
http://www.maplin.co...?ModuleNo=46386 - not too sure what that is
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...4#ht_1403wt_952 - 1N914 switching diode, no mention of 1N4148
and
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...d#ht_3175wt_970 - 1N4148 Switching diode, no mention of 1N914
Please help me out here, Diodes aren't my thing 
Thanks
Liam
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A 1N914 diode is the same as a 1N4148. Even if it does not mention that it's a switching diode, it probably is b/c their is an International Standard and naming convention that are followed when creating the components.
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I got write errors with nandpro when using this wiring and the J2D2.4->J2D2.7 was soldered.
I disconnected the J2D2.7 wire and after that the nandpro write operation worked again.
I had no such problems when using the 3x330ohm in place on another xenon board.
Has it relevance or is it just solar flares messing with my lpt rig today..? 
Did not reflash with J2D2.7 connected to verify problem after that, as I got it working.
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so yeah i went in and did all the soldering and got the cant find flash error so i rewired everything and now its telling me could not open virtual nand device file: ltp could not continue and i cant figure this out help would be appreciated.
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QUOTE(SatanCookies @ Jan 14 2011, 06:34 AM)

so yeah i went in and did all the soldering and got the cant find flash error so i rewired everything and now its telling me could not open virtual nand device file: ltp could not continue and i cant figure this out help would be appreciated.
Are you using the latest nandpro? I think they have remove the virtual nand function, use the older version.
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Hi Guys
I've done a couple of jtags using this method and didn't have any problems until today. One that I tagged a couple of days ago is throwing an E79 error. I won't bore you with all the checks I have done but I am now checking the diodes with the diode setting on my multimeter. Can anybody confirm if the values that I am getting are correct:
337 @ point 3 below
-422 @ point 4 below

Cheers
Mark