Post by: CableBro on December 07, 2004, 12:10:00 PM
Seems to work with DVD-/+R, DVD-RW, and CDRW. Does not read CD-R.
Post by: zikronix on December 07, 2004, 12:37:00 PM
Post by: CableBro on December 07, 2004, 12:40:00 PM
Post by: Victo123 on December 08, 2004, 03:01:00 PM
Post by: Sord_Fish on December 08, 2004, 05:22:00 PM
Post by: CableBro on December 12, 2004, 06:29:00 PM
Post by: dcourtney on December 17, 2004, 10:53:00 PM
Topic pretty much says it all. Just picked up another xbox to mod dated 2004-11-24. Upon taking the lid off I didn't recognise the sticker on the dvdrom, After looking at it closely it is marked Hitachi-LG Model GDR-8050L. Now I've only ever come across thompsons, samsungs and phillips but never one of these. Is this something new or have I just completely missed boat when these originally started showing up?
Regards Dave
Post by: GM65 on December 17, 2004, 10:56:00 PM
No these drives are apparently pretty new. The first time I heard about one was probably a week or two ago.
Post by: dcourtney on December 17, 2004, 10:58:00 PM
Post by: GM65 on December 17, 2004, 10:59:00 PM
good question... I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for how these things perform, and we may have another dud or something better than a samsung on our hands possibly. I wouldn't get my hopes up though MS seems to be attempting more and more to crack down on ppl who mod xbox's..And I suppose rightfully so
Post by: CUxtopher on December 17, 2004, 11:21:00 PM
well i sent x-s this info with pics last week when i opened up a new box, i guess they didnt feel the need to post it, also posted it on www.notworksafe.com
the drive sucks, has errors reading the free ncaa2005/topspin disc, put the disck in my phillips drive and everything is fine
cheap! ms!!
Post by: dcourtney on December 17, 2004, 11:35:00 PM
anyways here's a couple of pics so you guys know what to look for
http://users.bigpond...tne/hitachi.jpg
http://users.bigpond...ourtne/tray.jpg
Post by: lordvader129 on December 17, 2004, 11:57:00 PM
ominously reminiscent of a thomson
Post by: dcourtney on December 18, 2004, 12:46:00 AM
dvd-r no probs
cdr no go
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 18, 2004, 03:45:00 AM
i wouldnt think it would be good. ms r trying to make more monies, ie the dodgey ram in the new xbox's
Post by: dcourtney on December 18, 2004, 04:11:00 AM
I just did 2 more xbox's then after this post and both had this drive in them and both were 1.6's
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 18, 2004, 04:40:00 AM
| QUOTE (dcourtney @ Dec 18 2004, 10:07 PM) |
| that top picture i posted is the top of the drive shows all the sticker details. I just did 2 more xbox's then after this post and both had this drive in them and both were 1.6's |
sorry man, must have missed them
Post by: FallsInc on December 18, 2004, 05:14:00 AM
people are gonna go nuts over this...
good find.. glad my crystal has a new philips...
Post by: GoDKiLLaX on December 19, 2004, 08:00:00 AM
Post by: garyopa on December 19, 2004, 09:19:00 AM
Would it not be possible to DUMP the firmware, and convert it into the
PC version.
May be a so-so solution for those with DEAD thompson drives, looking
for a cheap replacement.
In canada I have seen the LG PC drives as low as $16 each.
Post by: LawrenceS on December 19, 2004, 05:50:00 PM
The Tray
The tray is like a thompson but with a wider cutout.
The Sticker
Does anyone know about compatability with these drives? im about to do my own tests.
Thanks, Lawrence
This post has been edited by LawrenceS: Dec 20 2004, 02:00 AM
Post by: evilbully on December 19, 2004, 06:03:00 PM
Post by: LawrenceS on December 19, 2004, 06:00:00 PM
Here they are, working this time.
The Tray
The Sticker
Post by: el_diablo on December 19, 2004, 06:31:00 PM
but there probably the new thompson
Post by: LawrenceS on December 19, 2004, 06:49:00 PM
They work fine with DVD-R, DVD-RW, CD-RW.
Dosent work with CD-R
Post by: Stitch_626 on December 19, 2004, 10:02:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 19, 2004, 10:35:00 PM
Post by: FallsInc on December 19, 2004, 10:44:00 PM
Post by: FallsInc on December 19, 2004, 10:43:00 PM
http://forum.rpc1.or...?download_id=88
looking at LG doesnt turn up much...
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 19, 2004, 10:50:00 PM
so the lg pc version of the drive you would asssume has a good laser. and if its teh same, we just gotta convince someoen to hack up some firmware for us.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 19, 2004, 10:49:00 PM
Other Topic
This post has been edited by ferrari_rulz_02: Dec 20 2004, 06:50 AM
Post by: Dasgooch on December 21, 2004, 10:32:00 AM
DVD-ROM Drive
Model: GDR-8050L
Rom Ver 0012AD
Manufactured: October 2004
This came out of an Xbox with a date of 2004-11-02
Here is a pic I snapped with my crappy webcam
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/dasgooch/Picture026.jpg)
This is not a 1.6b xbox because it is using Samsung ram.
Post by: otherguy on December 21, 2004, 11:59:00 AM
Everything seemed to go smoothly with it though.
here's some pics i got.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/otherguy/xbox/dvd/P0001780.jpg)
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/otherguy/xbox/dvd/P0001782.jpg)
sorry for the huge-ness - i dont have photoshop on this machine
Post by: Silentscream__ on December 21, 2004, 12:03:00 PM
Post by: otherguy on December 21, 2004, 12:12:00 PM
Post by: Silentscream__ on December 21, 2004, 01:10:00 PM
Post by: LBoogie on December 21, 2004, 05:56:00 PM
http://www.lge.com/catalog/prodlist?catego...ntId=CTG1000439
I'm assuming this drive works in all of the XBOX's like all the others, right?
Post by: Cthulhu32 on December 21, 2004, 06:49:00 PM
I think these things qualify as xbox 1.7 motherboards, because they are completely incompatible w/ the lpc rebuild kit, and I do not have the experience to track down the d0 point myself. I took pictures of my bro's motherboard, if you want hi-res pics PM or email me, otherwise here's the pictures I posted on photobucket that are limited to 250kb. It's cool to find something new sometimes, but this time I really need directions on where the heck to solder the d0 point and lpc rebuild points since my bro is going back to japan in 2 weeks.
Xbox 1.7 Pictures
easy identification of the new boxs, the feet now have grooves on them, and are made of a different, shiny material. Torx screws are still silver like the 1.6b's
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/cthulhu32/xbox_17/xbox1_7_feet.jpg)
Post by: lordvader129 on December 21, 2004, 07:24:00 PM
and maybe im missing somehting but the pics just look like a 1.6 to me
Post by: Cthulhu32 on December 21, 2004, 07:36:00 PM
QUOTE(lordvader129 @ Dec 22 2004, 04:27 AM)
the pads are nothing new, ive seen thos on every version ehre and there (same withthe silver screws)
and maybe im missing somehting but the pics just look like a 1.6 to me
and maybe im missing somehting but the pics just look like a 1.6 to me
Oh crap, you're right. Haha, it is a 1.6b, the lpc rebuild kit works fine I was just having a retard moment and I flipped it the wrong way. Anyways, so no 1.7 yet thank god, I'm out to mod this thing, thanks again.
This post has been edited by Cthulhu32: Dec 22 2004, 03:44 AM
Post by: otherguy on December 21, 2004, 07:41:00 PM
Post by: Cthulhu32 on December 21, 2004, 11:21:00 PM
QUOTE(otherguy @ Dec 22 2004, 04:44 AM)
umm yea - it's just a 1.6 with the new drives we're talking about... apparently you've never done a 1.6 machine before - cause you have the lpc rebuild on the wrong way... turn it around and you wont have a 1.7 anymore... then hit yourself on the head a few times
.... you read my post that I realized it was a 1.6 and it was a dumb mistake right?
anyways, its fully working, everything is going good. here it is booting w/ the cromwell and everything:
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/cthulhu32/xbox_16/xbox16_modded16.jpg)
Compatibility for the Hitachi DVD drive so far:
Memorex DVD+R 4x [works]
FujiFilm DVD+R 8x [works]
generic no label CD-r [doesn't work]
if I get some DVD-R's this christmas I'll test those, this is all the media I had to throw at it right now.
This post has been edited by Cthulhu32: Dec 22 2004, 07:21 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 22, 2004, 03:59:00 AM
that doesnt figure
Post by: RoboChicken on December 22, 2004, 04:31:00 PM
October 04 drive in a 11/04 Xbox
Has a white connector cable instead of yellow
Post by: FallsInc on December 22, 2004, 05:38:00 PM
then again, there are what, 5 different xbox plants across the globe... maybe one got the lg drives, and hasnt ran out of samsung ram yet...
This post has been edited by FallsInc: Dec 23 2004, 01:41 AM
Post by: the_beast on December 22, 2004, 08:05:00 PM
Post by: the_beast on December 22, 2004, 08:20:00 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on December 22, 2004, 08:39:00 PM
Post by: otherguy on December 22, 2004, 09:00:00 PM
I know i can use the console for a premod - but the extra $100 is just a big dent in my pocket.
Until people get these things stocked again i think we're all going to be waiting for more info.
Post by: LenteSubigo on December 22, 2004, 10:20:00 PM
The ICs for DRD-8610b are:
EliteMT 100MHz (4Mbit DRAM 25ns) 256Kb x 16-bit (Used for buffer)
M11B416256A -25J
FZP3N0355 0047
http://www.esmt.com....M11B416256A.exe
MediaTek (Servo/Decoder/uP IC for CD-ROM/R/RW/16x DVD-ROM/DVD-RAM read)
MT1329E
0139-AYB
M8W05
http://www.mtk.com.t...oduct_lines.htm
MediaTek (16x DVD-ROM RF Amplifier)
MT1326F
0139-AYS
M8W40
http://www.mtk.com.t...oduct_lines.htm
Mitsubishi (DC to DC controller)
129 M63
00J 022
FP
SST (Flash Memory 1Mbit 70ns) 128Kb x 8-bit
MPF
39SF010-70-4C-NH
S137058-D
http://www.ssti.com/...0-03.000-DS.pdf
(not sure if links are allowed here so h's taken off the beginning.)
**MOD EDIT**
(put h's back for convience since he probably wont make the 15 min edit deadline)
Post by: lordvader129 on December 22, 2004, 10:30:00 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on December 22, 2004, 10:37:00 PM
Post by: lordvader129 on December 22, 2004, 10:45:00 PM
oh yeah, no pr0n either
This post has been edited by lordvader129: Dec 23 2004, 06:46 AM
Post by: shanafan on December 22, 2004, 11:38:00 PM
Post by: lordvader129 on December 22, 2004, 11:40:00 PM
QUOTE(shanafan @ Dec 23 2004, 01:34 AM)
Well, seems like the Samsung is still the best XBox DVDROM out there. But, it won't play my old DVD+R backups that my Thomson could launch! But, it plays CDR which is good.
try the 2004 philips VAD6035/21, boots all cd-r and dvd+r i threw at it
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 24, 2004, 03:23:00 AM
QUOTE(shanafan @ Dec 23 2004, 05:02 PM)
Well, seems like the Samsung is still the best XBox DVDROM out there.
theyre got the best reputation, but i think the new phillips has one over em.
time will tell though. lets wait and see what can be done with these lg drives first
Post by: delmo44 on December 24, 2004, 05:14:00 AM
it says hitachi the model #is grd-8050L.
what is it. is it good or a bad dvd drive
Post by: Bambers on December 24, 2004, 05:42:00 AM
BAD
Post by: delmo44 on December 24, 2004, 05:48:00 AM
this is the first one i have seen. i have opened over 100 xboxs and have never seen this type of drive.
Post by: lordvader129 on December 24, 2004, 11:56:00 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 26, 2004, 01:17:00 AM
QUOTE(lordvader129 @ Dec 25 2004, 05:20 AM)
yeah, its new
but we dont know how many of the production lines are using them, so you might still get teh new phillips and samsung drives in new xbox's for a while to come yet
Post by: halofreak007 on December 26, 2004, 08:57:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 26, 2004, 09:06:00 PM
QUOTE(halofreak007 @ Dec 27 2004, 02:21 PM)
sigh another scheme that ms is using to make for profit
tru. but i supose you have to look at it from the point of view that ms is a business. of course they want to do what they can to make a dollar.
Post by: itsmee129 on December 26, 2004, 09:10:00 PM
Post by: rh387 on December 26, 2004, 09:33:00 PM
QUOTE(itsmee129 @ Dec 27 2004, 05:34 AM)
does it play all cds and dvds like the samsung?
doesnt anyone read the thread before posting?
Post by: Proctologist on December 26, 2004, 09:56:00 PM
Post by: Elevators on December 26, 2004, 11:52:00 PM
Post by: reidtheweed01 on December 26, 2004, 11:53:00 PM
QUOTE(Cthulhu32 @ Dec 22 2004, 03:13 AM)
How are you guys modding these systems? Not only did this 10-05-2004 xbox have a hitachi DVD-rom, the motherboard has been completely redesigned.
I think these things qualify as xbox 1.7 motherboards, because they are completely incompatible w/ the lpc rebuild kit, and I do not have the experience to track down the d0 point myself. I took pictures of my bro's motherboard, if you want hi-res pics PM or email me, otherwise here's the pictures I posted on photobucket that are limited to 250kb. It's cool to find something new sometimes, but this time I really need directions on where the heck to solder the d0 point and lpc rebuild points since my bro is going back to japan in 2 weeks.
Xbox 1.7 Pictures
easy identification of the new boxs, the feet now have grooves on them, and are made of a different, shiny material. Torx screws are still silver like the 1.6b's
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/cthulhu32/xbox_17/xbox1_7_feet.jpg)
I think these things qualify as xbox 1.7 motherboards, because they are completely incompatible w/ the lpc rebuild kit, and I do not have the experience to track down the d0 point myself. I took pictures of my bro's motherboard, if you want hi-res pics PM or email me, otherwise here's the pictures I posted on photobucket that are limited to 250kb. It's cool to find something new sometimes, but this time I really need directions on where the heck to solder the d0 point and lpc rebuild points since my bro is going back to japan in 2 weeks.
Xbox 1.7 Pictures
easy identification of the new boxs, the feet now have grooves on them, and are made of a different, shiny material. Torx screws are still silver like the 1.6b's
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/cthulhu32/xbox_17/xbox1_7_feet.jpg)
www.uploadimages.net , try that its the best host ive ever seen
QUOTE(CUxtopher @ Dec 18 2004, 07:45 AM)
i believe i was first ti find it!!!
well i sent x-s this info with pics last week when i opened up a new box, i guess they didnt feel the need to post it, also posted it on www.notworksafe.com
the drive sucks, has errors reading the free ncaa2005/topspin disc, put the disck in my phillips drive and everything is fine
cheap! ms!!
well i sent x-s this info with pics last week when i opened up a new box, i guess they didnt feel the need to post it, also posted it on www.notworksafe.com
the drive sucks, has errors reading the free ncaa2005/topspin disc, put the disck in my phillips drive and everything is fine
cheap! ms!!
umm ive never had that problem with that and i played that combo disk for about 2 hours on the new drive and nothing happend, and i havnt had any other problems with any other games that ive played on it either, i think you just fucked up your disk or something.
This post has been edited by reidtheweed01: Dec 27 2004, 08:02 AM
Post by: Australian Rat on December 27, 2004, 04:41:00 AM
616s are too hard to get and really expensive. A cheaper drive would be great!
Post by: freaky_00 on December 27, 2004, 05:22:00 AM
http://www.xbox-linu...D_Burning_HOWTO
Samsung is way faster with 5x but fails DVD+R (in my opinion superior media). If you got the RIGHT dvdwriter you can use BITSETTING to get +R or +RW working on every Samsung!!! The Philips Rev. 2 seems to be nice too but I don't have any clue about its speed.
I would love to get my hands on this drive. LG makes one of the best optical drives so I can not understand how people can talk about it as an inferior drive!!! The only thing that sucks is it isn't working with CD-Rs and DVD+RWs!!!
Post by: catalinnc on December 27, 2004, 06:56:00 AM
What is "RIGHT dvdwriter" and what is "BITSETTING"?
Can you be more specific?
Post by: freaky_00 on December 27, 2004, 07:21:00 AM
DVD-R : 2x, 4x CLV, 8x ZCLV, 16x PCAV
DVD-RW : 1x, 2x, 4x, 6x CLV
DVD-RAM : 2x, 3x ZCLV, 3x 5x PCAV (Ver. 2.1)
DVD+R : 2.4x, 4x CLV, 8x, 12x, 16x ZCLV
DVD+R Double Layer : 2.4x, 4x CLV
DVD+RW : 2.4x, 4x CLV, 8x ZCLV
CD-R : 4x, 8x CLV, 16x, 24x, 32x, 40x ZCLV
CD-RW : 4x, 8x, 10x CLV, 16x CLV, 24x ZCLV
A DVD-Player or dvd drive first tries to get information about what kind of media is in the drive in order to chose the correct laser. Some players and drives can not understand what "DVD+R", "DVD+RW" or even "DVD+DL" are. Bitsetting is a special feature which makes the dvdwriter set a flag so the media type WILL BE DVD-ROM to achieve better compatibility. With bitsetting burned DVD+ Media runs perfectly on Samsung drives!!!
http://www.dvdplusrw.org/Article.asp?mid=0&sid=2&aid=42
http://www.videohelp.com/glossary?B#BitSetting
This post has been edited by freaky_00: Dec 27 2004, 03:24 PM
Post by: rh387 on December 27, 2004, 09:15:00 AM
QUOTE(freaky_00 @ Dec 27 2004, 01:53 PM)
Thomsons are one of the best because of compatibility to all DVD-Media!
untrue. i have had media that wouldnt work.
Post by: Betaz on December 27, 2004, 09:54:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Dec 24 2004, 11:47 AM)
theyre got the best reputation, but i think the new phillips has one over em.
time will tell though. lets wait and see what can be done with these lg drives first
time will tell though. lets wait and see what can be done with these lg drives first
Yeah, I would definatly have to agree there. I have the new Phillips drive in my 1.6 Xbox that I got in early November (Halo 2
) and it plays almost every media I put in it. I have found VERY few types of CD-Rs that it will not play. I haven't tested the other media as extensively since CD-R is usually the one that doesn't work. I know some of my extremely old CD-Rs didn't work (old dark blue bottoms), but I'd say about 90% of the CD-Rs I had worked in it. Great drive, couldn't be happier with it... unless it was quiet haha.
Post by: warbeast on December 27, 2004, 10:36:00 AM
QUOTE
couldn't be happier with it... unless it was quiet haha.
i've had a v1.6 to mod for a friend that had a new philips drive and at the time i knew nothing about the new philips drive so i thought it was just the same as any other philips apart from the noise that made me think it was almost broken
anyway i spent atleast a hour looking at it untill i read that the noise is normal
Post by: EvilTeddyBear on December 27, 2004, 11:06:00 AM
they were $10-$15 each I got all of the samsung 616t's
I'll posts pics after the 1st
Post by: Altima NEO on December 27, 2004, 11:08:00 AM
Guys think I should try to buy one of those factory refurbished systems?
Post by: Zod5000 on December 27, 2004, 12:25:00 PM
I can live without cd-r (allthough it would be nice to have), but at the least the 605f plays everything else i throw at it.
Post by: Altima NEO on December 27, 2004, 01:57:00 PM
Post by: inVinCiBleGaMa on December 27, 2004, 05:50:00 PM
. No matches turned up for H-L Data storage on Googlehttp://www.hlds.co.jp/e_index.jsp
Again this mite be pretty obvious...
I also found a possible match..... its the http://www.hlds.co.jp/e_products/HLDSProductList.jsp?strCategory=DVD-ROM%20Drive
its not a perfect match but i think it mite be like the Samsung 605F and the 616T. Keep in mind the 616T is 16X too.....
anyway this was the only drive on the website.
Post by: Vejita on December 27, 2004, 10:29:00 PM
It reads absolutely EVERYTHING so it has an advantage over the good old Samsung which is problematic with + media unless you bitset
Post by: Caderade on December 27, 2004, 11:25:00 PM
. Any whoo, my mfg date is November 2, 2004. I would open it to see the specs and such but i do not want to void the warrenty just in case i choose to return it or send it to micrsoft. I noticed a reply that said it had problems reading the topspin/ncaa fottball 2005 cd it included, which is bs because it reads mine fine. As for cdrs...everyone is right, it wont read em. O well. I hope that encouraged some of u. And i dont think that it is the next Thompson as some of u may say who dont even own it and are judging by the pics.
Post by: lordvader129 on December 27, 2004, 11:31:00 PM
QUOTE(freaky_00 @ Dec 27 2004, 06:53 AM)
What makes you feel that LG is another Thomson? In my opinion the Thomsons are one of the best because of compatibility to all DVD-Media!
all the ones ive come across wouldnt read dvd+r, besides the philips (both the un-tweaks v1 and the new one) read all dvd media as well, and are far more reliable at it than the thomsons
Post by: twistedsymphony on December 28, 2004, 06:29:00 AM
I'm good friends with A@ron (writer of "the definitive 616t tutorial"). We're both very familiar with 616 modding, how and why it works. We need to know the model number of the chips on the circuit board as well as any model numbers printed on the actual circuit board. You get us that stuff and we can start working on cracking this new drive.
Post by: s1w on December 28, 2004, 09:06:00 AM
Someone can take pictures of the GDR-8050L's pcb. I will try and get my hands on a GDR-8162B and take pictures of it's pcb for comparison.
NCIX in Canada sells these for $31.61 CAD and they have sales all the time.,
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...G%20Electronics
This post has been edited by s1w: Dec 28 2004, 05:09 PM
Post by: Malphazar on December 28, 2004, 01:33:00 PM
Spelling and gramer are not my strong point.....
Post by: Unseen Shadow on December 28, 2004, 03:01:00 PM
Cheers,
Shadow
and by the way Malphazar
jacking Brahms avatar.....not cool
-EDIT....my bad...brahm's EX avatar...still.......
This post has been edited by Unseen Shadow: Dec 28 2004, 11:11 PM
Post by: AndyJapan on December 28, 2004, 06:59:00 PM
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Dec 28 2004, 02:53 PM)
One of you guys with this drive need to open it up and take some hi-res pictures of the circuit board... that is litterally the only way we'll be able to determine if there is a sister drive like the Xbox sammy and the 616 sammy.
I'm good friends with A@ron (writer of "the definitive 616t tutorial"). We're both very familiar with 616 modding, how and why it works. We need to know the model number of the chips on the circuit board as well as any model numbers printed on the actual circuit board. You get us that stuff and we can start working on cracking this new drive.
I'm good friends with A@ron (writer of "the definitive 616t tutorial"). We're both very familiar with 616 modding, how and why it works. We need to know the model number of the chips on the circuit board as well as any model numbers printed on the actual circuit board. You get us that stuff and we can start working on cracking this new drive.
Hey twistedsymphony!
What do you think about the Samsung SD-616E? I ordered this drive some while ago as I though that I could get the SD-616T. The SD-616E is manufactured by Toshiba Samsung Storage Technology and I am afraid that this drive cannot be modified as it can be done with the SD-616T. Any comments on this would be welcome.
I got some `dirty disc errors` some time ago and started browsing message boards to find out with which drive I could replace my dying Thomson drive. My Thomson drive is still functional, but I wouldn`t bet that it won`t fail in future. If the LG drive turns out to be as "good" as the SD-616T and folks could find a compatible drive than can be modded, I would go for that one..
Post by: kevinlekiller on December 28, 2004, 07:41:00 PM
Anyways it has the new dvd-drive in it, I ''tested'' the xbox for a few days before wrapping it.
I noticed that sometimes it randomly gives me the (The disc might be damaged...) error and it did it a few times (with : One original game; Amped 2+Top spin, 4 Backups (2 dvd+r ,2 dvd-r all branded differently). All the discs look brand new (no scratches)).
The error is realy random like once it did it after about 4 hours of playing kotor 2.
Another time after 35 mins of nfsu2. etc....
This never happened on my xbox(its a samsung I guess it makes a difference??)
(well it happened a few times but it was in morrowind backed up on my hard drive)
Now I guess ill have to buy him a samsung or a phillips since this thing is annoying!
This post has been edited by kevinlekiller: Dec 29 2004, 03:44 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 28, 2004, 10:42:00 PM
QUOTE(kevinlekiller @ Dec 29 2004, 01:05 PM)
Now I guess ill have to buy him a samsung or a phillips since this thing is annoying!
thatll b useless. ud b better off getting him a hdd, and copying the games to that
Post by: masterdave on December 29, 2004, 12:19:00 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 29, 2004, 12:27:00 AM
QUOTE(masterdave @ Dec 29 2004, 05:43 PM)
can we get a pic of the under side of the dvd tray?
what do you want that for? theres pics of the tray around here, theyre not that hard to find
Post by: Exobex on December 29, 2004, 03:39:00 AM
If he's after a pic of the underside, a topside view isn't going to do.
Post by: HunTerror on December 29, 2004, 10:48:00 AM
If the Hitache drive has a direct hardware equivalent, we'd simply flash the xbox firmware onto the PC version, correct? With the 616T's, I seem to see people talking about hacking the firmware, but I don't see why this is neccessary, not to mention that it's a fairly involved undertaking.
thx
Post by: Exobex on December 29, 2004, 11:10:00 AM
Post by: Zod5000 on December 29, 2004, 11:53:00 AM
Post by: HunTerror on December 29, 2004, 07:37:00 PM
Thx for your patience with an interested n00b.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 30, 2004, 12:28:00 AM
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Dec 30 2004, 01:01 PM)
But again, I'm not even 100% familiar with the copy protection scheme the xbox uses. I thought it's just a reverse-spinning drive motor.
yer it must be, otherwise y would u have to reverse the motor when moddign a sammy 616?
so why cant we just take the firmware form teh xbox drive, flash it on the pc drive, reverse the motor?
then, we just need the few point that tell the xbox if teh drives open or what, and you shoudl have a dvd drive thatll read everythign perfect.
just like the sammy 616.
Post by: speedbump47 on December 30, 2004, 04:14:00 PM
I'm sure the PC version of the Hitachi reads burned media fine, which means that the drive is physically capable of reading the media. However, if, once it is flashed, it doesn't read DVD+Rs (or any other media) anymore, then we know that the firmware is limiting it, thus it might need to be hacked.
To answer HunTerror's question about the motor spinning:
The motor reversal on the 616 isn't to reverse the spinning motor; it's to reverse the tray in/out motor. The Xbox doesn't spin the discs backwards, it reads them from the outside track -> in (instead of inner track -> out, like normal media). The tray reversal wasn't a copy protection method, just a slight difference between the way the drives were manufactured (which had to be properly addressed in the drive firmware)
For ferrari_rulz_02:
In order to take the firmware and flash it in a way that the new drive works, the new drive HAS to have the same type of chips, etc. on it. Trying to find the exact PC equivalent of the Xbox Hitachi is the goal of this thread. Once that is found, the work of mapping the proper solder points, etc. can begin.
This post has been edited by speedbump47: Dec 31 2004, 12:18 AM
Post by: LenteSubigo on December 30, 2004, 04:14:00 PM
POST A PIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A number of you have them in modded xbox's, cant just one of you POST A PIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
This post has been edited by LenteSubigo: Dec 31 2004, 12:15 AM
Post by: LenteSubigo on December 30, 2004, 10:08:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on December 31, 2004, 02:04:00 AM
it has been asked for before, im surer some nice soul will provide us with a look inside the thing
Post by: ns80 on December 31, 2004, 11:14:00 AM
LG DVD 1
LG DVD 2
LG DVD 3
Post by: LenteSubigo on December 31, 2004, 04:12:00 PM
QUOTE(ns80 @ Dec 31 2004, 12:38 PM)
Here are a few hi-res images of the GDR-8050L. I'll have it open for at least a few more hours, if anyone needs pics of anything else inside let me know.
LG DVD 1
LG DVD 2
LG DVD 3
LG DVD 1
LG DVD 2
LG DVD 3
If you still have that open or can open it back up can you take some pics of the laser?
Post by: LenteSubigo on December 31, 2004, 05:03:00 PM
So, the next steps are.
1. We need info on mn103s89fda panasonic drive controller.
2. Someone who has this drive needs to desolder the sst chip and read the firmware off of it.
3. We need to find a drive with either the mn103s89fda drive controller, or a compatable controller.
With that said, here is some info on the gdr-8162b.
1. Flash Chip 256kb sst 39sf020a (doesn't matter as long as its 256kb)
2. Drive Controller mn103s71f
3. Laser 313709016 123d6f (not sure what is the model # and Serial #)
Post by: ns80 on December 31, 2004, 05:07:00 PM
Laser Top
Laser Side
Laser Bottom
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on January 01, 2005, 03:15:00 AM
I'm really hoping for the best on this newly found Hitachi drive and hope someone can find a PC equivalent drive.
Post by: TeeTylerToe on January 01, 2005, 09:32:00 AM
Post by: TKramka on January 01, 2005, 07:28:00 PM
Post by: karsx on January 02, 2005, 05:58:00 AM
Hey everyone i'm new. i just got my new xbox 3 days ago, dated Nov 16.2004. Probably that new LG crap
i was just wondering if i should return that one since it doesnt' read cd-r's and look for earlier model?
I'm planing to mod my xbox.
i just wanted to know if it will work fine after i install mod chip? i really wanted to put all my old cds in my xbox.
Thanks in advance.
Post by: Pizza Pizz on January 02, 2005, 08:52:00 AM
very clear - blimey bit biggish - lol but very clear all the same
it could be possible to tweak it a bit - pots look a bit more sturdy or tweakable than say philips drives and being two it might be possible to get it reading cdr's a bit
that is though if the firmware allows this - the 605F not reading cdr's IS down to firmware IMO
hmmm wish I had one of these coz feel a need to tweak coming on - lol
Post by: TKramka on January 02, 2005, 05:50:00 PM
I would try all this myself but I don't have the drives or the budget to but them. Usually the pot to the left is the DVD part of the laser, and the right one is the CD part, but this is just a guess. Just be carefull turning them, I had to get a new laser for my Philips because I broke one of the pots. 
But that drive was crap anyways.Also, HL makes some good reliable drives for the computer, if the cdr problems are firmware related, it could just be a matter of hacking some parts of the fw. Someone should figure out how to make a universal patch so any PC drive with flashable firmware could work in an xbox.
Oh by the way, just because the drive looks like a thomson dosn't mean its as crappy. Thomsons can be good drives when you get the right kind. I have an old NEC DV-5700A that is a splitting image of a thomson, same case styling, but is much more reliable and faster, and it has a tray that looks like a Samsung.
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 02, 2005, 08:47:00 PM
MT1329E = OLD SAMMY 605b
MT1358E = NEW SAMMY 605f
If you put 605b on a 605f or vise-versa, you will have an unusable drive. And you can't even reflash the drive after flashing the wrong firmware without desoldering the firmware chip, reprogramming it in a flash programmer, and then resoldering it back in.
So, leave the firmware alone unless you know what you are doing!!!!!!
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 03, 2005, 02:59:00 AM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 3 2005, 02:11 PM)
And you can't even reflash the drive after flashing the wrong firmware without desoldering the firmware chip, reprogramming it in a flash programmer, and then resoldering it back in.
So, leave the firmware alone unless you know what you are doing!!!!!!
So, leave the firmware alone unless you know what you are doing!!!!!!
ok, so it looks like we need some people who have a bit of experince in this area.
it looks liek it can be done, and im willign to bet that its teh firmware thats stopping it from reading cd-r's.
Post by: TKramka on January 03, 2005, 12:47:00 PM
This post has been edited by TKramka: Jan 3 2005, 08:53 PM
Post by: TKramka on January 03, 2005, 12:49:00 PM
This post has been edited by TKramka: Jan 3 2005, 08:52 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 03, 2005, 05:59:00 PM
QUOTE(TKramka @ Jan 4 2005, 06:13 AM)
Is there a possibility that we could find clone drives from different manufacturers that can work?
thats what were trying to do. theres a computer model thats virtually teh same. so all we have to do is get the firmware, hack it, then flash the pc version of teh drive. then, with a few otehr mods, you have yourself a good dvd drive for your xbox, w/out paying over 100 bucks for it.
the biggest problem will be with the firmware, and we need everyone who can help out, to do as much as they can
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 03, 2005, 10:22:00 PM
QUOTE(TKramka @ Jan 3 2005, 02:11 PM)
Actually, I think you can put it in a pc and use MtkWinFlash in ATAPI mode to reflash it. Regardless, I think that both the HL-DT and the Samsung 605F can read CDRs unmodded but need a firmware hack. It might be something that can easily be defeated like region protection. Or it could be our worst nightmare to find that little chunk of code and fix it. Whatever the case, someone needs to take a look at it, maybe ask someone who does region code cracking to help. Maybe we should just stick to using Philips drives, they aren't that bad.
Sorry, but the LG drive doesn't us a MediaTek Controller, so mtkwinflash won't be able to pull the firmware off the drive. The panasonic controller doesn't have a read program available, so all you can do is overwrite the old firmware with new firmware. This won't be a problem though, we would only have to kill one drive to get the firmware for everyone to use in modding a similar lg drive.
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02)
thats what were trying to do. theres a computer model thats virtually teh same. so all we have to do is get the firmware, hack it, then flash the pc version of teh drive. then, with a few otehr mods, you have yourself a good dvd drive for your xbox, w/out paying over 100 bucks for it.
the biggest problem will be with the firmware, and we need everyone who can help out, to do as much as they can
the biggest problem will be with the firmware, and we need everyone who can help out, to do as much as they can
People tried to hack the firmware from all the other drives, It hasn't been done yet because MS used encryption in the code. The idea in hacking firmware would be that you can take the section of code out of an xbox drive that allows it to read originals and insert that into any pc drive you want with very little modification. Then we could all get 16x dvd-roms that read everything without need for modification for $15.
I can't decrypt MSs code, and once I did I don't know what I would do with the firmware code. I am a computer programmer. 99.999% of computer programmers never touch firmware, so we most likely will never get hacked firmware.
But, what we can do is find a similar drive that can accept the exhisting firmware and do a little modification.
Does any one have a DRD-8160B drive? I think I can make it work as a full replacement, including reading originals, but before I order one I would like to ge some highres pics of the laser, and the main pcb (both side). I'm not sure if there are different versions, so a pic of the drive label would be good too.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 03, 2005, 10:47:00 PM
Post by: PokPokD on January 04, 2005, 07:32:00 AM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 04, 2005, 08:48:00 AM
EliteMT 100MHz (4Mbit DRAM 25ns) 256Kb x 16-bit (Used for buffer)
M11B416256A -25J
FZP3N0355 0047
http://www.esmt.com.tw/datasheet/M11B416256A.exe
MediaTek (Servo/Decoder/uP IC for CD-ROM/R/RW/16x DVD-ROM/DVD-RAM read)
MT1329E
0139-AYB
M8W05
http://www.mtk.com.tw/product_lines.htm
MediaTek (16x DVD-ROM RF Amplifier)
MT1326F
0139-AYS
M8W40
http://www.mtk.com.tw/product_lines.htm
Mitsubishi (DC to DC controller)
129 M63
00J 022
FP
SST (Flash Memory 1Mbit 70ns) 128Kb x 8-bit
MPF
39SF010-70-4C-NH
S137058-D
http://www.ssti.com/products/pdf/394-39SF5...0-03.000-DS.pdf
These components are all either the exact same conponents as the SD-616T or they are 100% compatable with the SD-616T's components. So, if the laser is compatable with the 605b's firmware like the SD-616T's laser is, and we can find the cd/dvd ready point(s) then we have a new drive available for modification.
Post by: freaky_00 on January 04, 2005, 02:59:00 PM
This post has been edited by lordvader129: Jan 18 2005, 09:04 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 04, 2005, 04:47:00 PM
DISCINFO VERSION : 1.5.5.9
VENDOR : SAMSUNG
MODEL : DVD-ROM SDG-605B
REVISION : x010
VENDOR SPECIFIC :
LOADING MECHANISM : Tray
NUMBER VOL. LEVELS : 255
BUFFER SIZE : 512KB
INTERFACE : ATAPI
RPC2 SCHEME : NO
ANALOG AUDIO PLAY : YES
COMPOSITE OUTPUT : NO
DIGITAL PORT-PORT1 : NO
DIGITAL PORT-PORT2 : NO
READ UPC CODE : YES
MULTISESSION READ : YES
MODE 2 FORM 1 : YES
MODE 2 FORM 2 : YES
READ ISRC CODE : YES
READ BAD CODE : NO
BUFFER UNDER-RUN : NO
MT. RAINIER : NO
CAN READ CDR : YES
CAN READ CDRW : YES
CAN READ CDRM2 : YES
CAN WRITE CDR : NO
CAN WRITE CDRW : NO
CAN TEST WRITE : NO
CAN READ DVD-ROM : YES
CAN READ DVD-R : YES
CAN READ DVD-RW : YES
CAN READ DVD-RAM : NO
CAN READ DVD+R : NO
CAN READ DVD+RW : NO
CAN WRITE DVD-R : NO
CAN WRITE DVD-RW : NO
CAN WRITE DVD-RAM : NO
CAN WRITE DVD+R : NO
CAN WRITE DVD+RW : NO
MAX CDR READ SPEED : 16
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 04, 2005, 04:51:00 PM
I tried to get ahold of the brothers, and got no response. Ask them what info/tests they would need to figure out what is different in the firmware that makes the xbox accept originals.
Post by: F1LTER on January 05, 2005, 01:59:00 AM
PC DVD-Rom doesn't read CD-R??? GRD8160B ?
h**p://www.cdrlabs.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=7808 ?
Just thought I would share...
Post by: F1LTER on January 05, 2005, 02:10:00 AM
LG DVD-ROM 16X IDE GRD-8160B OEM 34.00 31.56
LG 16x IDE DVD-ROM DRD-8160B SW/P-DVD R *BACK IN* 34.67 32.19
Different Drives? And it seems the GRD version is discontinued and is almost only avail from non us sources. Maybe the G is like a OEM code.. I dont know.
Post by: freaky_00 on January 05, 2005, 06:09:00 AM
BTW is there a tool for the XBOX which lets you see info of your DVD Drive without putting the drive in your pc? Maybe even something like DISCInfo? I WOULD LOVE THAT!!! Maybe LenteSubigo could ask Hijacker for the sources and make an XBE out of it. Or any other guy could do something like that.
The 8160B is SO OLD. Mine was manufactured in December 2001. This drive should be discontinued anywhere now!!! In germany only these models are listed on the lg website
GDR-8161B
GDR-8162B
GDR-8163B
Post by: SpookieStylez on January 05, 2005, 06:22:00 AM
Post by: freaky_00 on January 05, 2005, 06:26:00 AM
QUOTE(SpookieStylez @ Jan 5 2005, 02:46 PM)
lol.....where are the screws to take it apart?
What do you mean with that???
Post by: zoleet on January 06, 2005, 03:03:00 PM
http://forum.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=103278&highlight=xbox
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 07, 2005, 02:11:00 AM
QUOTE(F1LTER @ Jan 5 2005, 08:23 PM)
I ran across a interesting forum.. any one think this could be a related drive?
PC DVD-Rom doesn't read CD-R??? GRD8160B ?
h**p://www.cdrlabs.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=7808 ?
Just thought I would share...
PC DVD-Rom doesn't read CD-R??? GRD8160B ?
h**p://www.cdrlabs.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=7808 ?
Just thought I would share...
interesting......
i hope that the pc version when we get it modded works.
but id mod it even if it didnt read cd-r's.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 07, 2005, 02:12:00 AM
QUOTE(SpookieStylez @ Jan 6 2005, 12:46 AM)
lol.....where are the screws to take it apart?
look under the labels if you cant find them
Post by: miketsu on January 07, 2005, 02:57:00 AM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 4 2005, 06:12 PM)
...snip...
These components are all either the exact same conponents as the SD-616T or they are 100% compatable with the SD-616T's components. So, if the laser is compatable with the 605b's firmware like the SD-616T's laser is, and we can find the cd/dvd ready point(s) then we have a new drive available for modification.
These components are all either the exact same conponents as the SD-616T or they are 100% compatable with the SD-616T's components. So, if the laser is compatable with the 605b's firmware like the SD-616T's laser is, and we can find the cd/dvd ready point(s) then we have a new drive available for modification.
Just for my own amusement i flashed sdg-605B firmware to LG DRD-8160B...
PC recognizes the drive as sdg-605, but the eject doesn't work, and it dont work either if i reverse the tray motor...
...But if i press paperclip to manual open hole(?) then drive ejects the tray, and closes it if eject is pressed, but it closes it also automaticly about in 30seconds...
Drive doesn't try to spin disc at all, only when eject button is pressed repeatly, then disc spins about one turn...
When eject is pressed then the laser tryes to focus or something to disc, and it moves about 2mm... The laser doesn't move more at any stages...
...so there's something that isn't compatible on that drive...
cheeRS, M.
This post has been edited by miketsu: Jan 7 2005, 11:00 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 07, 2005, 03:07:00 AM
the same thing im guesssing
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 07, 2005, 05:56:00 PM
If the computer still recognizes it as a 605 after you flashed the firmware, something is wrong. The computer should recognise it as a DRD-8160B, and then either work or do something like what you described. E
ither way, it is possible that 605 firmware will work on DRD-8160B and DRD-8160B firmware wont work on the 605.
Post by: bitblaster on January 07, 2005, 06:02:00 PM
QUOTE(CableBro @ Dec 7 2004, 02:41 PM)
Here is a pic of the new Hitachi HL Data Xbox DVD Drive.
Seems to work with DVD-/+R, DVD-RW, and CDRW. Does not read CD-R.
Seems to work with DVD-/+R, DVD-RW, and CDRW. Does not read CD-R.
Thats like mine, I just got my xbox... it has that drive, works nice... I tried it with CDRW and it works fine, reads games fine too.
Post by: miketsu on January 09, 2005, 05:34:00 AM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 8 2005, 03:20 AM)
...snap...
If the computer still recognizes it as a 605 after you flashed the firmware, something is wrong. The computer should recognise it as a DRD-8160B, and then either work or do something like what you described. E
If the computer still recognizes it as a 605 after you flashed the firmware, something is wrong. The computer should recognise it as a DRD-8160B, and then either work or do something like what you described. E
The xbox, PC (in windows or freeBSD) sees DRD-8160B as samsung sdg-605B.
I flashed also samsung 616T firmware to drive.
...it wont work at all.
PC (in windows or freeBSD) sees drive now as samsung 616T.
Drive occasionally spins disc about one turn, and if eject is pressed repeatly it tryes to focus laser or something (with or without disc inserted)....
CheeRS, M.
This post has been edited by miketsu: Jan 9 2005, 01:37 PM
Post by: Cdemon on January 09, 2005, 07:16:00 AM
Post by: Cdemon on January 09, 2005, 07:34:00 AM
http://members.fortunecity.com/cdemon24/xbox.wav
This post has been edited by Cdemon: Jan 9 2005, 03:45 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 09, 2005, 08:44:00 AM
So, 605b or 616t firmware doesn't work on the 8160b? That sucks. Can you take apart the 8160b and send me a few pics?
Post by: miketsu on January 09, 2005, 02:49:00 PM
It does not open tray, and it tryes to close it all the time, make clicking sounds...
Anyway tryed also Asus DVD-E616 firmware to sdg-605 and 8160B. Both makes lot of errors on freeBSD (device not ready, illegal state, etc.), but 605fw on 8160B doesn't.
Asus firmware on 8160B trys to init laser (turns laser on), but doesn't move it...
LenteSubigo: check your messages
There has been some changes also in sdg-605b firmwares. The "usual places" firmware gives different md5sum than my own 605.
...and the original 605B survived on the abuse.
CheeRS, M.
Post by: bitblaster on January 09, 2005, 04:59:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 09, 2005, 05:52:00 PM
Post by: SpookieStylez on January 10, 2005, 06:38:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Jan 7 2005, 04:36 AM)
look under the labels if you cant find them
just a failed attempt to be sarcastic
....
Post by: shaggie on January 11, 2005, 02:38:00 PM
I'm working in a local computer store and I was reading this intressting thread when I didnt got anything else to... *lazy*
I went to see what kinda LG dvd drives we had in stock. I found a couple new LG GDR-8163B drives.
I decided to open up the cover from one of them. The PCB is pretty much the same and the "SST" chip and Panasonic chip has the same model numbers/letters as the orginal XBOX drive has on the 3 images posted on page 7 in this thread!
Could this be the closest match!?
I can post pics of the PCB and whatever info you guys might need!
Let me know if you need anything!! Hope this helped someone!
Lets get this to work!? Ok?!
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 11, 2005, 10:15:00 PM
if you wouldnt mind, posting some pics would be great, thanks.
Post by: xeonburn on January 11, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
Post by: shaggie on January 12, 2005, 01:34:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Jan 12 2005, 06:39 AM)
great work shaggie.
if you wouldnt mind, posting some pics would be great, thanks.
if you wouldnt mind, posting some pics would be great, thanks.
Hehe, no problem. Glad I can help!
I'll get thoes pics asap. So you, the smart people, can do your magic!
I allready have the drive in my xbox, working good, except it dont read originals ... as we all know! But thats about to change, right guys!?
Now lets all get to work!!
See ya!
Post by: shaggie on January 12, 2005, 07:56:00 AM
I now have thoes pics i promiced, I'll post them later today.. (after some hours). Since I just got home from work and I have some other things to do .
And I need to find a good place to host them pics... about 14MB of pics. Real close-ups allso!
See ya later today, aaaight?!
Post by: valius on January 12, 2005, 10:14:00 AM
I think it just might resemble our new xbox drive what do you lot think??
Post by: shaggie on January 12, 2005, 11:24:00 AM
Looks like I wasnt fast enough! :P
Anyway, here is the images:
Pic #1
Pic #2
Pic #3
Pic #4
Pic #5
Pic #6
Pic #7
Pic #8
Pic #9
Pic #10
Pic #11
Pic #12
Pic #13
Pic #14
Or you can just grab them all in a fancy .zip file! :D HERE (8.35MB)
Anyone got any news about this? Keep up the good work! :)
Post by: valius on January 12, 2005, 11:40:00 AM
Have you done any testing yet as to the W,x,y & z signals?
I just got my drive tonight, I'm gonna have a look for those sinals whene I get back in..
Has any managed to dump the firmware from the xbox rom yet? If so how about a heads up
chat to you soon, Val
Post by: shaggie on January 12, 2005, 11:50:00 AM
Nope, no testing done .. What so ever..
Contact me if you find something intressting!
See ya!
Post by: valius on January 12, 2005, 04:42:00 PM
Not found Y yet but we can use superfro's idea in his tutorial.
not checked for Z yet & I aint looking forward to it!!!!
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 13, 2005, 09:04:00 PM
Looking at the pictures the two drives look identical, except for the xbox dvd connector plug. Since the signals you are looking for are being sent to that plug, wouldn't it be really easy to find the points if you used the 8050 as a map. Simply follow the traces back and we should have the points.
Once we have the points, we are still going to need a copy of the 8050 firmware inorder to read xbox originals. So, we need to find a program to d/l the firmware off of the panasonic chipset, or someone needs to desolder the sst chip and use a chip reader.
Post by: valius on January 14, 2005, 05:54:00 PM
Thats is a good idea though I like it, the only real problem I can think of it reversing the power to the drive motor, it looks a lot more complicated than the sammy conversion...
I'll update you on how I get on.
Val
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 14, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
Is anyone working on getting the firmware off of the xbox 8050 drive? I am trying to get ahold of the dangerous brothers over at rpc1.org, to see if they have a program for the 8163b or similar, that could work on the 8050.
We will need the firmware soon!
Post by: valius on January 15, 2005, 10:05:00 AM
These pics are from an earlier drive model but the same build technique has been used for the newer versions..
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/valius21/DSCF0510.jpg)
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/valius21/DSCF0511.jpg)
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/valius21/DSCF0512.jpg)
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 15, 2005, 08:56:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 16, 2005, 02:32:00 AM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 16 2005, 03:20 PM)
You don't reverse that motor, you only reverse the tray motor. The xbox disks aren't like gamecube disks, they are spun like normal dvd/cd's. If you look at a sammy tutorial, reverse the tray motor not the spin motor.
well then what do you have to reverse the tray motor for then? i thought that the discs had to be spun the opposite direction to normal, as a copyright protection scheme.
Post by: Australian Rat on January 16, 2005, 05:15:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Jan 16 2005, 05:56 PM)
well then what do you have to reverse the tray motor for then? i thought that the discs had to be spun the opposite direction to normal, as a copyright protection scheme.
I think it is that they read from the outside of the disc in. Normal discs read from inside to out.
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 16, 2005, 09:38:00 AM
The reason you need to reverse the tray motor in a sammy is because the firmware says to close the tray when it means open, and vise versa. If you press the eject button on a sd-616t/f with sd-616t/f firmware on a pc the drive works fine, if you flash sdg-605b firmware the tray will not open, because the signal says close, but if you manually open(paper clip) the drive and put a disk in then hit the eject button, it reads fine.
We may not have to reverse the tray motor, but if we have to it will be very easy. The first thing we need to do, is get the firmware off of an xbox LG 8050. Then we need to find all the signals. Test and see if we need anything else, or if the firmware will be compatable at all. It is still possible that this simply won't work too.
This post has been edited by LenteSubigo: Jan 16 2005, 05:39 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 16, 2005, 04:50:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 17 2005, 04:02 AM)
The first thing we need to do, is get the firmware off of an xbox LG 8050. Then we need to find all the signals. Test and see if we need anything else, or if the firmware will be compatable at all. It is still possible that this simply won't work too.
getting teh firmware is the only thing that is holding this project up. getting the signals should be very simple. just get a xbox lg drive's pcb next to the pc versions one, and track down the signals. as i said, it should be too hard if you have to two boards right there in front of you, sitting side-by-side.
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 16, 2005, 06:22:00 PM
I got a reply from the Dagnerous Borthers, they gave me an app that should be able to dl the firmware off the 8050, who has one they can connect to their pc and d/l the firmware? PM me and I will email you the app. It is very small, 36k.
Once we have a bin, I have to send it back to the dangerous brothers, and they will make us a working exe to flash the 8163b. By the end of the week there may be 2 replacement dvd drives! If so lets make sure all the contributers in this thread are mentioned the the tutorials!
P.S. All you need to connect your 8050 to your computer is a yellow dvd cable you are willing to splice into a molex connector (pc power plug).
Post by: zoleet on January 17, 2005, 05:33:00 AM
Post by: shaggie on January 17, 2005, 08:07:00 AM
Yeah!! This is the way these kinda things should work!! Good Team running this s*it!
Great work you all!!
Lets keep up the work!
Send me every info you'll be able to get your hands on .. i need them!
Thanks!
Post by: FallsInc on January 17, 2005, 08:18:00 AM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 17, 2005, 01:20:00 PM
1: Connect Power to the Drive
Choice #1: Splice into the yellow wires to provide power from the computer.
Choice #2: Connect the yellow wires to your xbox, connect the ide cable to your computer and power them both on.
2: Use either the dos prompt, or a dos boot disk to load the exe I will send you.
3: Send me the bin file generated by the exe.
4: I send the bin to the Dangerous Brothers
5: They send us a flashable copy back, and we are in business.
Post by: miketsu on January 17, 2005, 02:20:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 17 2005, 10:44 PM)
...
2: Use either the dos prompt, or a dos boot disk to load the exe I will send you.
2: Use either the dos prompt, or a dos boot disk to load the exe I will send you.
...in case that somebody didnt know, you can get excellent bootdisk images from www.bootdisk.com
M.
Post by: filsee on January 17, 2005, 08:17:00 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 17, 2005, 09:03:00 PM
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/lentesubigo
Lets get to work!
Post by: nemesis529 on January 17, 2005, 09:41:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 17, 2005, 09:49:00 PM
QUOTE(nemesis529 @ Jan 18 2005, 04:05 PM)
i have heard that the firmware for the hitachi lg is being worked on to use a pc lg drive in the xbox it is a cheap dvd rom and would read everything like the sammy 616t so keep looking out for the firmware
thats what this topic is about man. do sum reading
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 17, 2005, 09:52:00 PM
QUOTE(nemesis529 @ Jan 17 2005, 11:05 PM)
i have heard that the firmware for the hitachi lg is being worked on to use a pc lg drive in the xbox it is a cheap dvd rom and would read everything like the sammy 616t so keep looking out for the firmware
Well, I guess people have heard of us yeah, now lets get this thing going, someone get the firmware already.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 17, 2005, 10:00:00 PM
just heads up
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 17, 2005, 10:17:00 PM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Jan 17 2005, 11:24 PM)
hey LenteSubigo, it aint working. i cant get that file you said was there.
just heads up
just heads up
Ok, yahoo sucks, here is a link.
http://home.comcast.net/~lentesubigo/dwld8163.zip
Please don't download unless you are goint to use it!
Post by: valius on January 18, 2005, 11:20:00 AM
I'm waiting on a replacement drive coming & I'll start the search for signals again
I'll update you whene the drive arrives.
Regards,
Valius
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 18, 2005, 12:50:00 PM
Post by: Pizza Pizz on January 18, 2005, 01:50:00 PM
but does anyone know the 4 pinouts for the pc LG drives then without using NANDgates ?
tray in
tray out
eject
ready
hope the LG xbox firmware can be pulled off easier than the Tosh/Samsung 605F - that 605F can not be backed up via mtkflash like the 605B or many other drives
If NAND gates are still needed for LG drives then it may not be quite a quick fix/project
would be intersted in your findings and think you might ask stitch626 - he knows a lot about replacement dvd drives and was also trying to find a 605f replacement drive too but firmware was a bitch on that
Post by: TKramka on January 18, 2005, 03:14:00 PM
Post by: nemesis529 on January 18, 2005, 03:23:00 PM
Post by: freaky_00 on January 18, 2005, 04:04:00 PM
Post by: Sac2K4 on January 18, 2005, 04:08:00 PM
QUOTE(TKramka @ Jan 18 2005, 06:38 PM)
If the firmware is cracked to read CD-R's, can't we just reflash the M$ drive and not have to solder / splice wires.
technicly yes... but these are hard to crack.... nobody really managed to crack anyother one i dont think...
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 18, 2005, 04:38:00 PM
QUOTE(Sac2K4 @ Jan 18 2005, 05:32 PM)
technicly yes... but these are hard to crack.... nobody really managed to crack anyother one i dont think...
The goal here isn't to crack the firmware. The goal is to provide a reliable xbox drive replacement. We may even get the drive to read cd-r. The sd-616t reads slightly faster, and has better media compatability than the 605b even after being flashed with the sdg-605b firmware. So, I would guess that we can find a way to get it to work just like a sammy without a firmware hack. But first, someone who has one of these drives has to download the firmware extractor, and get us a copy of the firmware.
Please dont download the software unless you are going to use it to extract a copy of the lg 8050 xbox drives firmware. Thanks.
Firmware Extraction Software: http://home.comcast.net/~lentesubigo/dwld8163.zip
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 18, 2005, 05:11:00 PM
This post has been edited by LenteSubigo: Jan 19 2005, 01:13 AM
Post by: TKramka on January 18, 2005, 08:35:00 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 18, 2005, 09:18:00 PM
It would be nice to find someone capable of modifying the firmware willing to do it for us. If we had someone who could hack the firmware, we could make firmware for any pc dvd drive that would read originals, we might even be able to read originals on the pc if we knew what made the firmware support originals. We would be able to allow a drive to read at 16x and still read originals as well. If we could hack the firmware, we would have one hell of a drive. But noone here has the ability to hack firmware, and at least in the past those who did wouldn't help.
If you want to try and get people to help hack the firmware, start another thread. But this thread is for making another, more available pc dvd-rom drive replacement. And all we need now is someone to rip the firmware for us.
Post by: mainx07 on January 18, 2005, 11:27:00 PM
QUOTE(Cdemon @ Jan 9 2005, 09:58 AM)
I recorded a sample of it. My mic is right next to the Xbox when I recorded it, but this is how it sounds when it's loading:
http://members.fortunecity.com/cdemon24/xbox.wav
http://members.fortunecity.com/cdemon24/xbox.wav
My xbox makes the same exact sound when it is loading games. I just bought it this month and it does have the new LG drive in it. The new drive seems to be the nosiest of all the xbox drives when loading (clicking sounds). I have used 20+ different PC CD/DVD drives and none have made this noise. A CD/DVD drive should spin up to speed and just read the disc, not make clicking noises when loading. Does anyone know why this new LG drive makes clicking sounds when it is loading discs?
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 18, 2005, 11:39:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 19, 2005, 03:31:00 AM
please
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 19, 2005, 03:09:00 PM
this merged thread was all i found here on x-s(no b/s/t), but i was wondering what xbox-scenesters would pay for the drive, as opposed to ebayers, and that is how i ended up here. however, if i can provide some help before i sell it, that is cool too.
i will not be reading this thread everytime i visit x-s(usually every day), so if you can provide me with a modified dvd power cable, please let me know via pm asap.
@mainx07 - i used my hitachi-lg for about 5-6 hours and i noticed that the drive makes more noise than any of the other xbox drives i have used, but it was definitely a whirring or whining noise that only happened while i was actually using the drive. it was definitely a little bit louder than my v1.0 mobo fan, but i did not hear any noise at all when i was not using the drive and i did not hear any clicking noises either. is the clicking noise you refer to similar to th noise an old thomson will make?
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Jan 19 2005, 11:17 PM
Post by: RMV on January 19, 2005, 03:50:00 PM
Do you have Hitachi-LG 8050L model ? Please contact LenteSubigo, extract firmware and send him firmware file.
Post by: Stail on January 19, 2005, 04:13:00 PM
you dont have to mod anything.
just unplug xbox ide cable from your xbox dvd drive (keep that other) and replace it with ide cable what comes from your pc.
then power up xbox and then PC.
when xbox starts up the drive gets its power. when pc starts up it detects that drive
that should work i think?
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 19, 2005, 04:49:00 PM
QUOTE(Stail @ Jan 19 2005, 04:37 PM)
STICKY_BUD
you dont have to mod anything.
just unplug xbox ide cable from your xbox dvd drive (keep that other) and replace it with ide cable what comes from your pc.
then power up xbox and then PC.
when xbox starts up the drive gets its power. when pc starts up it detects that drive
that should work i think?
you dont have to mod anything.
just unplug xbox ide cable from your xbox dvd drive (keep that other) and replace it with ide cable what comes from your pc.
then power up xbox and then PC.
when xbox starts up the drive gets its power. when pc starts up it detects that drive
that should work i think?
Sounds like it would work to me. Did either of you pm him, because he said he wouldn't be reading this thread?
Post by: Stail on January 19, 2005, 05:06:00 PM
lets hope he answers quickly
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 19, 2005, 06:02:00 PM
i cannot use that particular method at home because i have a sony all-in-one box(drives and i/o built into the lcd) and my wife uses an imac.
however, i have carried my xbox to work on the weekend many times in order to take advantage of the projector and t-1 line nobody uses so going into work this weekend when nobody is around will not be a problem and it will give me a reason to get ionto some serious xbl action. as long as the app works for me, i can definitely have some results on sunday afternoon.
@lentesubigo - will you please upload the app again and pm the link to me?
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Jan 20 2005, 02:03 AM
Post by: kbarton77 on January 20, 2005, 09:04:00 AM
If I get the app by the time I leave work today I will stop by his house on my way home.
Post a message here if you would like as well.
kbarton77
EDIT: I removed my e-mail address, if sticky_bud can't do it I would be able too.
This post has been edited by kbarton77: Jan 20 2005, 05:07 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 20, 2005, 07:01:00 PM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 20, 2005, 07:24:00 PM
stay green!
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Jan 21 2005, 03:29 AM
Post by: kbarton77 on January 21, 2005, 11:12:00 AM
Kbarton!!
Post by: valius on January 21, 2005, 12:42:00 PM
I'm gonna start looking for the signals later on tonight.
Fingers crossed we get this wrapped up in the next week or two
I'll keep you updated.
Val
Post by: Speckles on January 21, 2005, 05:25:00 PM
Have the new drive attached to the PC, can see and use the drive in DOS but cannot run the EXE under DOS, can run the EXE under DOS prompt in Windows but cannot see the drive through Windows.
Can any one assist.
Thanks.
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 21, 2005, 06:05:00 PM
QUOTE(Speckles @ Jan 21 2005, 05:49 PM)
Hi all,
Have the new drive attached to the PC, can see and use the drive in DOS but cannot run the EXE under DOS, can run the EXE under DOS prompt in Windows but cannot see the drive through Windows.
Can any one assist.
Thanks.
Have the new drive attached to the PC, can see and use the drive in DOS but cannot run the EXE under DOS, can run the EXE under DOS prompt in Windows but cannot see the drive through Windows.
Can any one assist.
Thanks.
I bet there is something in the firmware that makes it not show up in windows. I am looking into a dos version of the extractor. When I get a reply I will post again.
Post by: valius on January 21, 2005, 08:32:00 PM
I have been looking for the Z signal all night, so far the only thing that comes close is a point that reads 0.4v with no cd in & 0v with cd in, I'm not sure if we can do anything with the 0.4v we might be able to use a nand gate to help boost the signal but then again maybe not...
Post by: Speckles on January 21, 2005, 09:01:00 PM
Antthing else i can try?
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 21, 2005, 09:05:00 PM
if it still will not work for you, we can still hope the program will work properly for kbarton77. he said he would have some results within the next couple of hours.
EDIT @SPECKLES - it could also be a connection error since your dvd drive is probably set as a slave - try the ide cable at both positions.
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Jan 22 2005, 05:13 AM
Post by: Speckles on January 21, 2005, 09:36:00 PM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 21, 2005, 09:53:00 PM
dos mode is not the same thing
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 21, 2005, 10:04:00 PM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 21, 2005, 10:21:00 PM
however, that is kind of a bummer for me because i already prepared the boot disk and thought i was fully prepared for tomorrow.
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Jan 22 2005, 06:25 AM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 21, 2005, 10:53:00 PM
---------------------------------------------------------
c:\temp>dwld8163.exe
LG GDR-8163B Download Tool, Ver. 0.02
Scanning CD/DVD Drives...
ERROR: Unable to locate any GDR-8163B drives
---------------------------------------------------------
i will test it tomorrow myself since i came up with a plausible excuse to get out of the house already and since i am looking forward to playing ghost recon 2 in a dark conference room sitting in an aeron chair with the projector and led's my only light source and 5.1 audio pounding through the hallways.
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Jan 22 2005, 06:55 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 21, 2005, 11:04:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 22 2005, 04:28 PM)
The program wasn't designed to work in dos. It was designed to work in the windows dos prompt. It will not work without being run within windows.
so if the drive cant be recognised under windows, and the program only works in windows (dos window) then how is this going to work?
Post by: kbarton77 on January 21, 2005, 11:26:00 PM
Good luck "buddy"
Kbarton
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 22, 2005, 01:47:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Jan 21 2005, 11:28 PM)
so if the drive cant be recognised under windows, and the program only works in windows (dos window) then how is this going to work?
We are trying to get a dos version of the program made. I sent pm's to people who I sent the other software to. They have the e-mail address of the guy who is going to make the extractor for us. He will e-mail the new software directly to them.
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 22, 2005, 08:57:00 AM
Post by: kbarton77 on January 22, 2005, 08:56:00 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 22, 2005, 10:05:00 PM
This post has been edited by LenteSubigo: Jan 23 2005, 06:06 AM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 22, 2005, 11:05:00 PM
stay green!!
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 23, 2005, 03:29:00 AM
QUOTE(STICKY_BUD @ Jan 22 2005, 11:29 PM)
i tried booting the pc with hitachi-lg drive connected via ide cable and powered by xbox. i attempted at least 10 different combinations of cable position and software including windows xp plus three different flavors of dos. the dvd drive was not recognized by any of them and of course, that means the program would not work either. i think converting the app i used today to a dos app will be of no use since the pc cannot recognize the drive. maybe linux will boot the drive, but i did not attempt that.
stay green!!
stay green!!
Anyone try running this prog in windows 98/Me?
Post by: fritz_fx on January 23, 2005, 08:18:00 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW
.......and they want 100 Aussie dollars for it.
Post by: kbarton77 on January 23, 2005, 09:22:00 AM
LenteSubigo the guys your get the program from did they write the code them self's or did they get it from some where? If they have the source code we could (with some changes) make it into a bootable xbe.
I'm pretty sure it could be done, but I don't have the xbox programing skills (not to mention the setup yet, SDK and MS VB) to be able to pull that off!
KBarton
Post by: TeeTylerToe on January 23, 2005, 12:11:00 PM
Post by: TKramka on January 23, 2005, 01:09:00 PM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 23, 2005, 05:00:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 23 2005, 02:53 AM)
Anyone try running this prog in windows 98/Me?
just replying once more to verify that my tests included a win98 boot disk, an ms-dos(i think is the same as win98) boot disk, a pc-dos boot disk and a ghost disk with c-dos(i call it c-dos because i cant remember the name which starts with a c).
if it is possible to port the code simply, i think an xbe is the best bet since we know the drive works in the xbox, but my skills do not include this kind of thing.
stay green!
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 23, 2005, 07:54:00 PM
QUOTE(kbarton77 @ Jan 23 2005, 09:46 AM)
Someone mentioned this before, but what about making a xbe? I think it was sticky bud that said it, but not sure. Is there a way we could compile the source code to and xbe. Or is someone getting this program from some where else?
LenteSubigo the guys your get the program from did they write the code them self's or did they get it from some where? If they have the source code we could (with some changes) make it into a bootable xbe.
I'm pretty sure it could be done, but I don't have the xbox programing skills (not to mention the setup yet, SDK and MS VB) to be able to pull that off!
KBarton
LenteSubigo the guys your get the program from did they write the code them self's or did they get it from some where? If they have the source code we could (with some changes) make it into a bootable xbe.
I'm pretty sure it could be done, but I don't have the xbox programing skills (not to mention the setup yet, SDK and MS VB) to be able to pull that off!
KBarton
The guys I got the original program from are working on a dos version of the firmware extractor. I can promise that they won't want to give out any source code even if they have it. I guess we just have to wait until they give someone the new version of the extractor so we can get a copy of the firmware. Anyone who has a gdr-8163b can help find the signals though!
Post by: runtotheoutsidebob on January 24, 2005, 03:14:00 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 24, 2005, 06:28:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Jan 24 2005, 02:18 PM)
The guys I got the original program from are working on a dos version of the firmware extractor. I can promise that they won't want to give out any source code even if they have it. I guess we just have to wait until they give someone the new version of the extractor so we can get a copy of the firmware. Anyone who has a gdr-8163b can help find the signals though!
well i think well just have to wait for a dos version, but i think it would be easier to convert it into a xbe file. but they probably dont have teh equiptment to do that do they?
Post by: otherguy on January 24, 2005, 06:44:00 PM
thanks
Post by: harryford on January 24, 2005, 08:50:00 PM
QUOTE(zikronix @ Dec 7 2004, 09:01 PM)
that thing looks like shit. I bet it barley plays xbox games... the tray looks like the thompson. whats the manufacturer date on that box
how the hell does a dvd-rom drive look like shit u nub
Post by: LordRaiden on January 25, 2005, 06:34:00 AM
I think this is the most importan, the signals.
Sorry for my english.
Post by: Lord Krisman on January 25, 2005, 02:39:00 PM
Ready: 5 volts w/o CD, 0 volts w CD
Eject: needs to be between 3.5 and 5 volts
Tray IN: 5v with tray in, 0v w tray out
Tray OUT: 0v with tray in, 5V with tray out.
I took these values from here so they should be correct.
Post by: LordRaiden on January 25, 2005, 06:21:00 PM
i find some signals... but can anyone verify???
http://jamolero.eresmas.net/xyzw.jpg
sorry for my english, i'm from spain...
Post by: LenteSubigo on January 25, 2005, 11:14:00 PM
QUOTE(LordRaiden @ Jan 25 2005, 06:45 PM)
i dont have a xbox with a LG dvd, but i have a LG 8163 dvd-rom for PC.
i find some signals... but can anyone verify???
My Signals
sorry for my english, i'm from spain... :P
i find some signals... but can anyone verify???
My Signals
sorry for my english, i'm from spain... :P
Your english is fine. You only had one mistake, very good for a second language!
Your only mistake was "i find" should have been I found.
Anyone conferm these signals? Is this drive going to require a nand gate, or can we just solder and go like the sd-616t?
This post has been edited by LenteSubigo: Jan 26 2005, 07:17 AM
Post by: LordRaiden on January 26, 2005, 04:29:00 AM
Post by: LordRaiden on January 26, 2005, 08:25:00 AM
the only one what appears to be correct is the ready signal. "Z"
i must use a nand gate???
Post by: Mars Express on January 26, 2005, 02:57:00 PM
QUOTE(otherguy @ Jan 25 2005, 04:08 AM)
anybody know what production line these boxes with the HL data drives are coming off of? If you have one of these drives in your box please post your serial
thanks
thanks
Hi,
DVD-ROM DRIVE
MODEL: GDR-8050L
Manufactured: November 2004
SN: 411HB059602
ROM VER.: 0012AD
other marks:
E-H023-0402108(
3850H-1412C
DHHS CODE:GH
FACTORY ID:GH
PRODUCT OF CHINA
The pcb inside is marked: 6870h-355AA
fwiw, Marcel.
Post by: ScoobySnack_94596 on January 26, 2005, 03:09:00 PM
Post by: otherguy on January 26, 2005, 04:42:00 PM
QUOTE(Mars Express @ Jan 26 2005, 05:21 PM)
Hi,
DVD-ROM DRIVE
MODEL: GDR-8050L
Manufactured: November 2004
SN: 411HB059602
ROM VER.: 0012AD
other marks:
E-H023-0402108(
3850H-1412C
DHHS CODE:GH
FACTORY ID:GH
PRODUCT OF CHINA
The pcb inside is marked: 6870h-355AA
fwiw, Marcel.
DVD-ROM DRIVE
MODEL: GDR-8050L
Manufactured: November 2004
SN: 411HB059602
ROM VER.: 0012AD
other marks:
E-H023-0402108(
3850H-1412C
DHHS CODE:GH
FACTORY ID:GH
PRODUCT OF CHINA
The pcb inside is marked: 6870h-355AA
fwiw, Marcel.
Post by: TeeTylerToe on January 26, 2005, 06:42:00 PM
Post by: TeeTylerToe on January 26, 2005, 09:57:00 PM
page 103, the atapi "download microcode" command,
This command enables the host to alter the devices microcode. The data transferred using the DOWNLOAD
MICROCODE command is vendor specific.
All transfers shall be an integer multiple of the sector size. The size of the data transfer is determined by the
contents of the LBA Low register and the Sector Count register. The LBA Low register shall be used to extend
the Sector Count register to create a 16-bit sector count value. The LBA Low register shall be the most
significant eight bits and the Sector Count register shall be the least significant eight bits. A value of zero in
both the LBA Low register and the Sector Count register shall specify no data is to be transferred. This allows
transfer sizes from 0 bytes to 33,553,920 bytes, in 512 byte increments.
The Features register shall be used to determine the effect of the DOWNLOAD MICROCODE command. The
values for the Features register are:
- 01h download is for immediate, temporary use.
- 07h save downloaded code for immediate and future use.
Either or both values may be supported. All other values are reserved.
but if all I need to do, is write a program that sends that command, and then saves the result why do there need to be special versions of the program depending on which chipset the drive runs? ah well, I'll try to figure out how to write an assembley program that runs on a dos boot disk.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 27, 2005, 03:52:00 AM
any help at the moment is greatly appreciated
Post by: LordRaiden on January 27, 2005, 11:56:00 AM
this point must be:
tray closed: 3.3 ~ 5
tray open: 0 (very importan check this when a disc is inserted)
can anyone help me with this point???
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on January 28, 2005, 04:36:00 AM
QUOTE(LordRaiden @ Jan 28 2005, 06:20 AM)
at last i found all point except the "Y" in the LG 8163B
this point must be:
tray closed: 3.3 ~ 5
tray open: 0 (very importan check this when a disc is inserted)
can anyone help me with this point???
this point must be:
tray closed: 3.3 ~ 5
tray open: 0 (very importan check this when a disc is inserted)
can anyone help me with this point???
can you please provide us with a picture of where you say the points are please?
and can we get someone to verify them as well?
Post by: LordRaiden on January 28, 2005, 05:31:00 AM
I have a problem with the "Y" when no disc is inserted it have de correct values, but when a disc is inserted take 0 value... can anyone help with this???
Post by: n3r0 on January 31, 2005, 06:30:00 PM
This post has been edited by n3r0: Feb 1 2005, 02:31 AM
Post by: otherguy on January 31, 2005, 08:06:00 PM
if you do get one you'll either get a Philips 2k4 drive, the samsung 605f or the HLDATA drive...
IF anyone with one would submit their serial number like i asked earlier... we may be able to tell which consoles are shipping with these drives.
I submitted information to the xbox-linux page earlier when i had a few of these consoles, but the page seems to be taken down now :-/
Post by: n3r0 on January 31, 2005, 09:08:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 01, 2005, 05:12:00 AM
QUOTE(n3r0 @ Feb 1 2005, 02:07 PM)
they got their shipment in yesterday and they said to come by tomorrow and pick one up.
well can you let us know if they have the drive, and what the serial number is. maybe donate that info to the xbox-linux page.
Post by: Silent Assassin88 on February 01, 2005, 08:30:00 AM
Post by: Lord Krisman on February 01, 2005, 01:08:00 PM
QUOTE(Silent Assassin88 @ Feb 1 2005, 03:29 PM)
here's the serial on mine: 403234544506
OK so lets see here as I understand this means:
Line 4
Week 45 of 2004 production
In Taiwan
If people don't want to post there entire serial number they shouldn't have to, according to xbox-linux the serial breaks down like this
QUOTE
LNNNNNN YWWFF
FF is the code of the factory (02: Mexico, 03: Hungary, 05: China, 06: Taiwan), L the number of the production line within the factory, Y the last digit of the production year, WW the number of the week of the production year, and NNNNNN the number of the Xbox within this week.
FF is the code of the factory (02: Mexico, 03: Hungary, 05: China, 06: Taiwan), L the number of the production line within the factory, Y the last digit of the production year, WW the number of the week of the production year, and NNNNNN the number of the Xbox within this week.
So really you don't have to give us the NNNNNN its just a little extra information of when it was produced.
Post by: n3r0 on February 01, 2005, 04:15:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 02, 2005, 12:05:00 AM
QUOTE(Lord Krisman @ Feb 2 2005, 06:07 AM)
If people don't want to post there entire serial number they shouldn't have to, according to xbox-linux the serial breaks down like this
So really you don't have to give us the NNNNNN its just a little extra information of when it was produced.
So really you don't have to give us the NNNNNN its just a little extra information of when it was produced.
thats right, all we need to know is where it was made, what preoduction line it was on, and what week of what year.
submittign this data to the xbox-linuix page is the best way of doing this. its an ongoing database, so that would be where it is most approipate to put this info
Post by: zoleet on February 02, 2005, 09:50:00 AM
Post by: ScoobySnack_94596 on February 03, 2005, 04:44:00 PM
QUOTE(n3r0 @ Feb 1 2005, 11:14 PM)
fucking gamestop told me yesterday they had their shipment in, and the lady the other day told me to come tuesday to get one cause thats when they were getting them, i fucking hate that place. i hope it blows up. so i can get my $80 in credit back.
I got mine at Target...they had quit a few instock.
Post by: samurI on February 03, 2005, 05:56:00 PM
Just for your information, I got my xbox last week which is one of the new shipments into the uk. This HAS NOT got a H/LG drive. Its got a Samsung.
Ser No: 2****** 44905
Manufacturing date: 2004-12-02
Line: 2
Week 49 of 2004
In China
Hope this helps as to what has, and hasnt got the new drives in
Post by: TracerX on February 04, 2005, 01:50:00 AM
This post has been edited by TracerX: Feb 4 2005, 09:50 AM
Post by: TracerX on February 04, 2005, 02:08:00 AM
(IMG:http://img139.exs.cx/img139/1574/w6zx.th.jpg)
I just cut out the necessary part from the other point picture on here and marked it quickly in paint (sorry, its 2am here). I'm giving up on the Y point for the nite, gl all!
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 04, 2005, 02:34:00 AM
QUOTE(TracerX @ Feb 4 2005, 06:49 PM)
Alright guys, now what we need to find those points (my eyes are crossing from trying to find that Y point) are some high-res pics of both sides of the pcb of the 8050. So if someone here has one in their xbox they are willing to take apart, we have some pics of the umm, main side(?), but we still need some of the other side. Maybe then we can do a trace and compare to the 8163.
what we really need to find these points are side by side high def shots of both sides of teh main pcb. so everone can compare
Post by: ChipInABox on February 04, 2005, 09:38:00 AM
Mfg. Date: 2004-12-07
Serial #: 283491145006
Product ID: 321283491145006
Of coarse v1.6, Samsung RAM.
Quick Question: I've heard this new drive is horrible, but others claim it'll read CDRs fine. Which is true? I'll try some DVDR and CDRWs in a couple hours.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 05, 2005, 04:57:00 AM
QUOTE(ChipInABox @ Feb 5 2005, 02:37 AM)
Just bought my first Hitachi-DVD Xbox. Here's some stats:
Mfg. Date: 2004-12-07
Serial #: 283491145006
Product ID: 321283491145006
Of coarse v1.6, Samsung RAM.
Quick Question: I've heard this new drive is horrible, but others claim it'll read CDRs fine. Which is true? I'll try some DVDR and CDRWs in a couple hours.
Mfg. Date: 2004-12-07
Serial #: 283491145006
Product ID: 321283491145006
Of coarse v1.6, Samsung RAM.
Quick Question: I've heard this new drive is horrible, but others claim it'll read CDRs fine. Which is true? I'll try some DVDR and CDRWs in a couple hours.
well as far as i know, its ok, but wont read cd-rs.
if possible can you please open it any take soem photos fo both sides? we need soem good images so we can mod a pc drive so we can get a very good replacement drive
Post by: ChipInABox on February 05, 2005, 10:45:00 AM
Post by: TracerX on February 05, 2005, 02:40:00 PM
As for high-res pics of the 8163b pcb there is a zip file somewhere in this topic that has extremely high-res pics, I think shaggie posted it.
Post by: TracerX on February 07, 2005, 11:17:00 AM
Post by: shaggie on February 07, 2005, 03:26:00 PM
QUOTE(TracerX @ Feb 5 2005, 09:39 PM)
Yes, open up the dvd drive and take pics of the main pcb. That way we can trace the points.
As for high-res pics of the 8163b pcb there is a zip file somewhere in this topic that has extremely high-res pics, I think shaggie posted it.
As for high-res pics of the 8163b pcb there is a zip file somewhere in this topic that has extremely high-res pics, I think shaggie posted it.
yeah, it was me ...
here is the link again : http://personal.inet.fi/clan/ppp2k/xbox_lg_drive/pics.zip
When i read about the program you're using to read the firmware off the 8050L drive.. It is done for the 8163B right? If the program looks for a 8163B, and thats why it says, no such drive found. Aint that so?? 8050L aint a 8163B .. it differs. The main hardware might be pretty much the same, or as we know now atleast.
But if the firmware and other stuff, that the firmware reader proggie checks, is different than the 8163B drive, then it never would be able to find the 8050L drive..
How could we ever use that tool then? We need the same kinda tool that doesnt check for the drive, it reads the firmware from the drive, thats lets say, is connected to primary slave. Or what ever we choose it to read from ... wasnt there a "download drive microcode" or something like that a few pages back?
Does that work somehow? Or am I missing something?
thats just something that i were thinking about .. Or if the developer of that firmware ripper could do the same program, but one that doesnt directly check that EXACTLY 8163B drive exists.
Do I make ANY sence?
Thats just my .02 cents of cource!
Post by: Staticvoid on February 07, 2005, 07:58:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 08, 2005, 04:11:00 AM
QUOTE(Staticvoid @ Feb 8 2005, 12:57 PM)
^^^
same/bump
Post by: otherguy on February 08, 2005, 10:44:00 AM
The seccond i get one in my hands i'll have all the info we need up here.
It just sucks because durring the christmas break i had three of these go through my hands
</rant>
Post by: TracerX on February 08, 2005, 04:01:00 PM
Post by: Staticvoid on February 09, 2005, 05:32:00 AM
QUOTE(otherguy @ Feb 8 2005, 05:43 PM)
I'm so pissed, i want to help with this. Unfortunately I've purchased almost every xbox that's come to my area in the last month and none of them have hitachi drives in them
The seccond i get one in my hands i'll have all the info we need up here.
It just sucks because durring the christmas break i had three of these go through my hands
</rant>
The seccond i get one in my hands i'll have all the info we need up here.
It just sucks because durring the christmas break i had three of these go through my hands
</rant>
i know exactly what you mean ive been to every store within a hour of me
Post by: Sac2K4 on February 09, 2005, 06:29:00 AM
Sac
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 11, 2005, 12:59:00 AM
QUOTE(Sac2K4 @ Feb 9 2005, 11:28 PM)
I got 5 people commin in shortly with brand new 1.6 xboxes... we;; Xmas time.. and if one of em has an LG or wtv ill end up giving my sammy for it so i can get all te info we ned. I also have a digicam that can take 1600X1200 Macro shots a 6mp. so ill have no NICE pics also.
Sac
Sac
now this is the sorta guy we need.
im really hoping we see some more boxes with these drives
Post by: schutzmarken on February 13, 2005, 03:38:00 PM
Post by: prominator on February 13, 2005, 09:24:00 PM
wich wire is the stb power?
Post by: aaron1017 on February 13, 2005, 09:38:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 14, 2005, 01:00:00 AM
QUOTE(schutzmarken @ Feb 14 2005, 08:37 AM)
Hi, how is it going, find anyone with the new Hitachi-LG drive in the box? Just tell me if it is something i can do... i have a box with the hitachi-LG drive..
dont supose you can take some high res piotures of both sides of teh boards can you?
Post by: schutzmarken on February 14, 2005, 07:41:00 AM
Post by: theDeacon on February 15, 2005, 05:41:00 PM
Post by: Sac2K4 on February 15, 2005, 06:14:00 PM
Post by: valius on February 15, 2005, 07:03:00 PM
I have the 8163b hooked up & working fine.
The Z signal WXYZ in this pic needs to be reversed by the use of a nand gate, I couldn't find a proper Y so I used the nand gate to reverse the X signal & I used that as my Y.
Check out Superfro's tut in the tut's section, thats where I got the idea from.
Post by: aaron1017 on February 16, 2005, 05:57:00 PM
Post by: aaron1017 on February 16, 2005, 07:31:00 PM
Outside1
Outside2
Outside3
Outside4
Outside5
Mainboard Top
Mainboard 6
Mainboard 7
Mainboard 8
Mainboard 9
Mainboard 10
Mainboard Bottom
Mainboard 11
Mainboard 12
Mainboard 13
Mainboard 14
Small Board
Small Board 15
Small Board 16
Misc Closer Up Shots of the MainBoard
Misc1
Misc2
Misc3
Misc4
Misc5
Misc6
Misc7
Misc8
Misc9
Misc10
Misc11
Misc12
Misc13
Misc14
Misc15
Misc16
Misc17
Misc18
Misc19
Misc20
Misc21
Misc22
Misc23
Misc24
Misc25
Misc26
Post by: aaron1017 on February 16, 2005, 08:05:00 PM
Serial Number: 291488345106
Product ID: 221291488345106
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 17, 2005, 02:34:00 AM
have we gotten any further in that area guys?
Post by: aaron1017 on February 17, 2005, 09:17:00 AM
The Dangerous Brothers
Post by: marcus905 on February 18, 2005, 06:41:00 AM
QUOTE(aaron1017 @ Feb 17 2005, 04:16 PM)
The Dangerous Brothers seem to be good at hacking firmware. Anybody try and contact them?
The Dangerous Brothers
The Dangerous Brothers
They have been already contacted. They released also a firmware downloader for this dvdrom. Look back in this thread. It should be called dwld8163.exe .
However the firmware for the xbox dvd drives can not be patched because it is encrypted, and it is read from a xbox dvd drive just to try it in other lg consumer products.
Marcus905
Post by: 01dabreoo on February 18, 2005, 07:04:00 AM
has anyone found that when its loading (espesialy on back ups)
thats it makes funny sounds lie the laser keep moving
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 22, 2005, 01:51:00 AM
QUOTE(marcus905 @ Feb 18 2005, 11:40 PM)
They have been already contacted. They released also a firmware downloader for this dvdrom. Look back in this thread. It should be called dwld8163.exe .
However the firmware for the xbox dvd drives can not be patched because it is encrypted, and it is read from a xbox dvd drive just to try it in other lg consumer products.
Marcus905
However the firmware for the xbox dvd drives can not be patched because it is encrypted, and it is read from a xbox dvd drive just to try it in other lg consumer products.
Marcus905
well can who ever conatcted them in teh first place get back to them, and see if we can fix this problem? maybe get them to write an xbe for us
Post by: marcus905 on February 22, 2005, 12:44:00 PM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Feb 22 2005, 08:50 AM)
well can who ever conatcted them in teh first place get back to them, and see if we can fix this problem? maybe get them to write an xbe for us
The one who contacted TDB was LenteSubigo. Try sending him a PM or whatever.
Marcus905
Post by: Thurizaz on February 22, 2005, 02:41:00 PM
Post by: theuhstuf on February 24, 2005, 12:19:00 PM
Post by: Chrisolux on February 24, 2005, 01:20:00 PM
I have one (I have to check my serial/drawer, but I am pretty sure I have one)
performance: I have noticed random disc errors and a few screen freezes, with certain games and no problems with other games...
Just my two cents...
Might be interested in trading for a good working sammy or phillips. i don't want to mod just want a system that works without alot of hassle...
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 24, 2005, 11:52:00 PM
QUOTE(theuhstuf @ Feb 25 2005, 05:18 AM)
OK i read this WHOLE topic and didn't see ANYONE mention that they were using 74 or 80 minute CDrs...I have a Samsung and I know for a fact that it won't read 80minute/700 MB cds, SO is it that the HL won't read CDrs or that they won't read 80Minute CDrs (well it IS hard to find any 74minute CDs anywhere anymore)
whether or not is a 74 min or 80min cd makes no difference. and it has been tested, and it wont read cd-r's.
i pm'd LenteSubigo, lets see if he gets back on here to help us out
Post by: Chrisolux on February 25, 2005, 09:00:00 AM
Sry guys, I got my xbox for Christmas 04, but my manufactor date is 7-17-03...
weird, i guess mine sat on the shelf for a while....
I don't have one of the new drives...
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 26, 2005, 04:08:00 AM
QUOTE(Chrisolux @ Feb 26 2005, 01:59 AM)
UPDATE:
Sry guys, I got my xbox for Christmas 04, but my manufactor date is 7-17-03...
weird, i guess mine sat on the shelf for a while....
I don't have one of the new drives...
Sry guys, I got my xbox for Christmas 04, but my manufactor date is 7-17-03...
weird, i guess mine sat on the shelf for a while....
I don't have one of the new drives...
thats unusal. they usualy dont sit around that long.
but anyway, what we need here is LenteSubigo to get back here
Post by: EmTea on February 26, 2005, 06:39:00 PM
It's acting up whatever it is. It'll go on this campagine of not reading games.This afternoon it stopped reading halo 2, I bet if i put it in now and play it it'll work. Also at xbox boot there is this LAG. The flubber will flubb then it gets all skippy and the audio get out of sync. Then just as the little "ding-ding" sound starts it stops and the MS logo comes on . Then it says that it cant recognice the DVD or CD. It's weird.
Post by: crazygreekangelo on February 26, 2005, 10:34:00 PM
Post by: wenid on February 27, 2005, 06:06:00 AM
QUOTE(crazygreekangelo @ Feb 27 2005, 03:33 PM)
someone please figure out the problem with the firmware extraction software. it seems that this is what is holding up the project.
Not any more. I have extracted the BIOS.
I spent about $200 (Australian) on hardware, including both a 8050L Xbox drive and a 8163B PC drive as well as the parts to build an "IDE flasher" (see www.loet.de). It also took quite a number of hours to wire up each drive to the flasher etc., but I won through in the end.
I have flashed my 8163B with the 8050L BIOS and verified that it still works in the PC as well as in the Xbox!
It will not read CDR discs (74 or 80 minute), in either the PC or the Xbox, as expected. It will read original game discs, at least it had no trouble with the old Halo disc I tried, and it also had no trouble with a TDK DVD-R disc I tried.
At the moment I only have the power lines and eject signal hooked up. I should have time tomorrow morning (Australian time) to try and confirm the points for at least a couple of the other signals. I'll use pictures posted earlier in this thread as a starting point.
I also downloaded the Dangerous Brothers auto-reset BIOSes for this drive. These are Windoze executables for flashing the BIOS to the drive. The BIOS image is embedded in the executable. I haven't tried it yet (partly because I don't run Windoze natively on any of my PCs), but I'm assuming that I can just patch one of these executables with the 8050L BIOS and then use the patched executable to flash any number of 8163B drives (one at a time) without going to the trouble I did this time.
More later... (still want LenteSubigo back, guys?)
Post by: wenid on February 27, 2005, 07:10:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on February 27, 2005, 11:37:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Feb 28 2005, 12:09 PM)
I was up late last night and a couple of things came up this morning so I haven't had time to do anything further on this front. Maybe this evening...
thank you very much. i cant wait till you get it finished.
Post by: wenid on February 28, 2005, 09:49:00 AM
Post by: zoleet on February 28, 2005, 10:14:00 AM
Post by: marcus905 on February 28, 2005, 01:58:00 PM
QUOTE(zoleet @ Feb 28 2005, 05:13 PM)
Should it work with 8161B?
As already been stated in this thread, the answer is no. Only the HL-DT-ST GRD-8163B may be used, because of internal hardware incompatibilities.
Post by: Schwatter on February 28, 2005, 02:02:00 PM
QUOTE
It will read original game discs
Thats bad, so it means that the drive is limited by firmware.
Its the same think like by the new samsung.
It has a good laser but it also didn´t read cdr´s
Sorry for my bad english i´m just a stupid german ;-)
I hope you can deciphering
Post by: theDeacon on February 28, 2005, 03:22:00 PM
QUOTE
Not any more. I have extracted the BIOS.
I spent about $200 (Australian) on hardware, including both a 8050L Xbox drive and a 8163B PC drive as well as the parts to build an "IDE flasher" (see www.loet.de). It also took quite a number of hours to wire up each drive to the flasher etc., but I won through in the end.
I have flashed my 8163B with the 8050L BIOS and verified that it still works in the PC as well as in the Xbox!
It will not read CDR discs (74 or 80 minute), in either the PC or the Xbox, as expected. It will read original game discs, at least it had no trouble with the old Halo disc I tried, and it also had no trouble with a TDK DVD-R disc I tried.
At the moment I only have the power lines and eject signal hooked up. I should have time tomorrow morning (Australian time) to try and confirm the points for at least a couple of the other signals. I'll use pictures posted earlier in this thread as a starting point.
I also downloaded the Dangerous Brothers auto-reset BIOSes for this drive. These are Windoze executables for flashing the BIOS to the drive. The BIOS image is embedded in the executable. I haven't tried it yet (partly because I don't run Windoze natively on any of my PCs), but I'm assuming that I can just patch one of these executables with the 8050L BIOS and then use the patched executable to flash any number of 8163B drives (one at a time) without going to the trouble I did this time.
More later... (still want LenteSubigo back, guys?)
I spent about $200 (Australian) on hardware, including both a 8050L Xbox drive and a 8163B PC drive as well as the parts to build an "IDE flasher" (see www.loet.de). It also took quite a number of hours to wire up each drive to the flasher etc., but I won through in the end.
I have flashed my 8163B with the 8050L BIOS and verified that it still works in the PC as well as in the Xbox!
It will not read CDR discs (74 or 80 minute), in either the PC or the Xbox, as expected. It will read original game discs, at least it had no trouble with the old Halo disc I tried, and it also had no trouble with a TDK DVD-R disc I tried.
At the moment I only have the power lines and eject signal hooked up. I should have time tomorrow morning (Australian time) to try and confirm the points for at least a couple of the other signals. I'll use pictures posted earlier in this thread as a starting point.
I also downloaded the Dangerous Brothers auto-reset BIOSes for this drive. These are Windoze executables for flashing the BIOS to the drive. The BIOS image is embedded in the executable. I haven't tried it yet (partly because I don't run Windoze natively on any of my PCs), but I'm assuming that I can just patch one of these executables with the 8050L BIOS and then use the patched executable to flash any number of 8163B drives (one at a time) without going to the trouble I did this time.
More later... (still want LenteSubigo back, guys?)
Thank you for all of your hard work. Much appreciated brutha! :beer:
Post by: zoleet on February 28, 2005, 03:40:00 PM
Post by: zoleet on February 28, 2005, 03:43:00 PM
Post by: marcus905 on February 28, 2005, 03:55:00 PM
QUOTE(zoleet @ Feb 28 2005, 10:42 PM)
Does the reflashed 8163B read X-DVD-s in PC?
Not the originals, alike a pc dvd drive, if you can get it to eject in a pc.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 01, 2005, 03:30:00 AM
Post by: wenid on March 01, 2005, 07:29:00 AM
QUOTE(zoleet @ Mar 1 2005, 08:39 AM)
Any Downloads? As .torrent would be cool :)
I'm trying to get xbins to accept it. I just got an email from GreenGiant saying "pass it onto Iriez and he should put it on Xbins for others to try", but yesterday Iriez seemed a bit dubious about it. I'll email Iriez again now.
Post by: wenid on March 01, 2005, 07:32:00 AM
QUOTE(zoleet @ Mar 1 2005, 08:42 AM)
Does the reflashed 8163B read X-DVD-s in PC?
No. As I understand it the Xbox sends special commands to the drive to get it to read original game discs and of course the PC doesn't know what those commands are.
The difference between the Xbox drive firmware and the PC drive firmware is basically the ability to understand these special commands.
Post by: wenid on March 01, 2005, 07:34:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Mar 1 2005, 08:29 PM)
so have we got the pc version of the drive working in the xbox yet?
Yes, but it's not "fully operational". There is a problem with (at least) the tray in and tray out signals (what you guys have been calling X and Y, I think). See my next post...
Post by: wenid on March 01, 2005, 07:55:00 AM
Anyway, here's the slightly overdue update I promised about 48 hours ago now.
The good news is that the 8163B drive is working fine in the Xbox and I have found the TRAY IN and TRAY OUT signals (aka X and Y). The bad news is that they are 3.3V signals rather than 5V signals and that doesn't seem to be good enough for the Xbox circuitry. One of them also needs to be inverted.
Now I'm not much of an electronics engineer, but I think maybe there's some CMOS in there somewhere that needs the high level signal to be at least 4V or so. Not being much of an electronics engineer, I don't know what the best/simplest way to achieve this level conversion is. Any ideas anyone?
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 01, 2005, 01:30:00 PM
Parts
1 x Compact Reed Relay (Operational Voltage of 3.3 or less)
1 x +5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator
1 x NAND Gate
When the relay gets 3.3v it allows 5v from the regulator through for the signal. The NAND Gate can invert the second signal.
Post by: wenid on March 01, 2005, 04:29:00 PM
QUOTE(zoleet @ Mar 1 2005, 08:39 AM)
Any Downloads? As .torrent would be cool :)
Iriez has now kindly put it up on xbins in the PC section.
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 2 2005, 06:29 AM)
Well, I know a way that will work, but I'm sure someone else could find a better, easier way.
Parts
1 x Compact Reed Relay (Operational Voltage of 3.3 or less)
1 x +5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator
1 x NAND Gate
When the relay gets 3.3v it allows 5v from the regulator through for the signal. The NAND Gate can invert the second signal.
Parts
1 x Compact Reed Relay (Operational Voltage of 3.3 or less)
1 x +5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator
1 x NAND Gate
When the relay gets 3.3v it allows 5v from the regulator through for the signal. The NAND Gate can invert the second signal.
Ah-ha. Interesting. We can probably pick up a "clean" 5V somewhere on the board and do without the regulator, too.
I've also been wondering for some time why you guys always talk about NAND gates. What's wrong with just using an inverter? I've been looking at some spec's and it seems to me that a 7405 (or some variant of it) would do the trick. The drawback is that to get the relatively high output voltage we'd need an open-collector device (which is what the 7405 is), and that means external pull-up resistors are required.
For the signal that needs to be inverted (tray in, from memory -- dunno whether that's X or Y in the alphabet naming system) you just run it through one inverter, and for the other one (tray out) you invert it twice to get back where you started (but at a higher voltage). Since the 7405 has six inverters per chip this still only uses up half the capacity of a single chip.
I think I'll try to pick up a 7405 (or three -- they're only a couple of bucks each) and I'll have a look at relays too because that might be simpler than having to worry about six pullup resistors.
Post by: otherguy on March 01, 2005, 04:50:00 PM
As far as the relay goes - is a 5v relay going to be available in a small enough package that it could be fit inside the drive chasis? I've only seen relays with these specs in quite large sizes...
I would think it would make more sense to use a transistor to supply the 5v from the smaller 3v signal... and package size shouldn't be a problem - as the transistor isn't based on electromagnetic fields... it doesn't need to be as large as the relays (should be cheaper too).
I'm still a student, so i may not be 100% correct in my assumptions - just applying what i've learned thus far :)
Edit: and congrats on the extraction! i didn't think it would ever get done lol
This post has been edited by otherguy: Mar 2 2005, 12:52 AM
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 01, 2005, 05:38:00 PM
QUOTE(otherguy @ Mar 1 2005, 03:49 PM)
just some t houghts on the inversion of the signals and method of upping voltages.
As far as the relay goes - is a 5v relay going to be available in a small enough package that it could be fit inside the drive chasis? I've only seen relays with these specs in quite large sizes...
I would think it would make more sense to use a transistor to supply the 5v from the smaller 3v signal... and package size shouldn't be a problem - as the transistor isn't based on electromagnetic fields... it doesn't need to be as large as the relays (should be cheaper too).
I'm still a student, so i may not be 100% correct in my assumptions - just applying what i've learned thus far :)
Edit: and congrats on the extraction! i didn't think it would ever get done lol
As far as the relay goes - is a 5v relay going to be available in a small enough package that it could be fit inside the drive chasis? I've only seen relays with these specs in quite large sizes...
I would think it would make more sense to use a transistor to supply the 5v from the smaller 3v signal... and package size shouldn't be a problem - as the transistor isn't based on electromagnetic fields... it doesn't need to be as large as the relays (should be cheaper too).
I'm still a student, so i may not be 100% correct in my assumptions - just applying what i've learned thus far :)
Edit: and congrats on the extraction! i didn't think it would ever get done lol
Well a reed relay can be as small as on of the smaller compasiters on the xbox motherboard. They are available at less than $1 from mouser.com - but shipping will be a bit much for a 1 item order. If there is another easy solution (transisters) that has parts available at RadioShack(or similar) we should go with that so more people can mod these things.
I just did some reading on transisters, and that sounds like the best idea. Find a constant 5v source (or use a 5v regulator) and use the 3.3v sand a transister as a switch for the 5v source.
Then we can use an inverter for the other signal.
Does the 3.3v show 3.3v and 0.0v or does it have some voltage all the time?
This post has been edited by LenteSubigo: Mar 2 2005, 01:49 AM
Post by: otherguy on March 01, 2005, 07:57:00 PM
Sorry for the crappy image - photoshops not installed on my laptop yet. thank go XP's version of pain can save in compressed formats
If anyone wants to do some reading on these devices here's a few good links:
http://hyperphysics....lids/trans.html
http://www.electroni...transistors.htm
Post by: wenid on March 01, 2005, 10:52:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 2 2005, 10:37 AM)
I just did some reading on transisters, and that sounds like the best idea. Find a constant 5v source (or use a 5v regulator) and use the 3.3v sand a transister as a switch for the 5v source.
Agreed. I've got some surface mount transistors that I've been using to fix v1.6 mobos with the blown power regulator, so maybe one of those will do the trick, but I suspect a wired (or "thru-hole") component will be easier to hook up.
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 2 2005, 10:37 AM)
Then we can use an inverter for the other signal.
We made not need to. I'm very rusty on this stuff, but I've got a vague recollection that there's some simple way to make the transistor work in the opposite fashion, style-o'fing.
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 2 2005, 10:37 AM)
Does the 3.3v show 3.3v and 0.0v or does it have some voltage all the time?
On this particular drive and Xbox my meter it actually shows 0.00V and 3.22V or 3.23V. Both signals show 0V when the tray is closed (because one of them needs inverting). The Tray In signal goes to 3.3V (or whatever) as soon as the tray starts opening, while the Tray Out signal stays at 0V until the tray is fully open.
QUOTE(otherguy @ Mar 2 2005, 01:03 PM)
a 5v supply should be trivial to find... the molex connector brings 5v in on the red line... no problems there.
Indeed. There are also multiple test points in the 5V rails so it's very easy to tap into the 5V supply.
QUOTE(otherguy @ Mar 2 2005, 01:03 PM)
We just need to get the proper data signal for the base of the transistor... here's how it should be wired:
[...snip...]
If anyone wants to do some reading on these devices here's a few good links:
[...snip...]
[...snip...]
If anyone wants to do some reading on these devices here's a few good links:
[...snip...]
Thanks for all that, otherguy, including coming up with the idea in the first place.
I'm at work now, but I'll try to have a fiddle with all this tonight. This transistor idea seems more promising anyway, and the little electronics shop on the way to work didn't have any 7405s, so I wasn't able to pick up any today.
Post by: wenid on March 02, 2005, 07:54:00 AM
I haven't been able to fathom why, but the test point on the 8163B circuit board labelled "LDOUT" is the Tray IN signal (correct polarity) and the point labelled "LDIN" is Tray OUT (inverted). Perhaps I've misunderstood something somewhere, but I don't think so.
Anyway, I currently have a BC547 transistor and a couple or resistors tacked onto my 8163B's board and I appear to be getting a good inverted and boosted Tray Out signal. Next step (hopefully tomorrow -- no time now) is going to be to try an "uninverted" version of the same thing (using a 557 transistor) for the Tray In signal. I don't think I can have both of these little mini-circuits tacked on at the same time without getting a short somewhere and I can't put the case back on with either one of them in place, so I may look at a better way to install them while I'm at it. Maybe even just a tiny bit of veroboard with some wires hanging off it.
If anyone's interested, you can pretty much see what I did by looking at the last diagram on the page at http://www.kpsec.fre...om/trancirc.htm under the heading "A transistor inverter (NOT gate)". If you scroll up a bit to the Heading "Choosing a suitable PNP transistor" you should get an idea of what I have in mind for the Tray In (uninverted) signal.
Wish me luck!
Post by: heraldoffailure on March 02, 2005, 10:34:00 AM
I'm not sympathizing with M$, but I'm pointing out that our community and others like us are responsible for the decline in quality of the newer boxes. M$ is a business and they behave like one.
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 02, 2005, 03:27:00 PM
This is the best price I can find on the GDR-8163b Black DVD-ROM drives, If anyone can find a deal better than $27.00 with free shipping within the US please post it.
As to the tray in/ tray out, it was exactly the same with the sd-616t/f drives, you had to wire the tray in point to the tray out wire, and vice versa. I don't really understand how a transister can act as an inverter, and that link you posted says how to wire it up, but doesn't give any reason why it acts like it does.
Post by: TracerX on March 02, 2005, 04:46:00 PM
Edit: Found a link for these drives at walmart.com, maybe we can find them local? http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp...030660804302498
Double Edit:Beige one at buy.com for 25.51 shipped free.
This post has been edited by TracerX: Mar 3 2005, 12:50 AM
Post by: jive on March 02, 2005, 05:40:00 PM
25.50 after they have it back in stock. NewEgg is the only place to shop IMO :)
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 02, 2005, 06:06:00 PM
QUOTE(jive @ Mar 2 2005, 04:39 PM)
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc....-136-050&depa=0
25.50 after they have it back in stock. NewEgg is the only place to shop IMO :)
25.50 after they have it back in stock. NewEgg is the only place to shop IMO :)
Yep, newegg looks like the best deal, and it looks like they will be back in stock tomorrow.
Now, the question is, can we flash the firmware back to the drive in a pc without any special tools? If this is going to be successful we will have to solve this problem and the tray in/out problem.
Post by: wenid on March 02, 2005, 09:45:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 3 2005, 08:26 AM)
I don't really understand how a transister can act as an inverter, and that link you posted says how to wire it up, but doesn't give any reason why it acts like it does.
The 1k resistor Rc ties the output signal high. When the input signal is low (0V), the collector-emitter current is zero and the output remains high. When input signal is high, collector-emitter current flows (with the 1k resistor acting as the load), and the output signal is pulled low.
This is all fine and dandy and is working, as I said earlier. Things are not so rosy for the uninverted signal. I didn't have much time to play with it this morning, though.
This post has been edited by wenid: Mar 3 2005, 05:57 AM
Post by: wenid on March 03, 2005, 08:54:00 AM
This post has been edited by wenid: Mar 3 2005, 04:56 PM
Post by: otherguy on March 03, 2005, 10:23:00 AM
Post by: wenid on March 03, 2005, 09:52:00 PM
LDIN and LDOUT are the 3.3V signals from the 8163B, TRAYIN and TRAYOUT are the 'X' and 'Y' connections to the Xbox. The two 1k resistors form a simple voltage divider to get a reference voltage in between 0V and 3.3V (namely 2.5V). I used 1K resistors simply because I had two of them sitting on the bench that were left over from earlier experiments. I'm using a TL072 dual op-amp chip for similar reasons -- I just happen to have a couple left over from some unfinished project in the dim, distant past.
As I said, the LDIN/TRAYOUT op-amp is working as expected, except that when LDIN is high TRAYOUT is 1.25V, not 0V. With my limited understanding of this stuff I'm not sure why this is happening, but I don't think it matters since 1.25V is low enough anyway. Also, when LDIN is low TRAYOUT only shows 3.9V, not 5V. When I was playing with the transistor inverter circuit I measured the TRAYOUT voltage both with and without it hooked up to the Xbox. It showed well over 4V when disconnected but only 3.9V when connected, so I'm guessing it's somehow due to the load on TRAYOUT from the Xbox.
With the LDOUT/TRAYIN op-amp I'm reading 3.9V at TRAYIN all the time, no matter what the state of the LDOUT signal.
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 03, 2005, 11:16:00 PM
LDIN/Tray Out - What is it showing when the tray is in, when the tray is out. What should it be showing when the tray is in, and when the tray is out.
LDOUT/Tray IN - What is it showing when the tray is in, when the tray is out. What should it be showing when the tray is in, and when the tray is out.
If I can get this info, I can send it to work with my brother-in-law, and he can have an electrical engineer figure out what the best circuit is to get the job done.
Also, has anyone successfully used the firmware loader to load the 8050 firmware onto a gdr-8163b?
Post by: wenid on March 03, 2005, 11:53:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 4 2005, 04:15 PM)
Ok, I keep reading over your posts, and as I read them, some of them are contridictory.
Please point out which posts you think contradict one another, and in what way (except for the mistake I made re. TRAYOUT needs inverting not TRAYIN, which I already corrected myself). You may prefer to do this in a PM. Either way is fine with me.
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 4 2005, 04:15 PM)
Here is the info I need:
LDIN/Tray Out - What is it showing when the tray is in, when the tray is out. What should it be showing when the tray is in, and when the tray is out.
LDIN/Tray Out - What is it showing when the tray is in, when the tray is out. What should it be showing when the tray is in, and when the tray is out.
There is no "it" here. LDIN and TRAYOUT are two separate signal lines. One is derived from the other. My earlier post refers to LDIN/TRAYOUT only when talking about the circuit that converts one to the other.
LDIN is a signal from the 8163B. It "shows" 0V at all times except if the tray is fully open, when it shows 3.3V (well 3.22 or 3.23, actually).
TRAYOUT is the signal provided to the Xbox. It should be at 5V at all times except if the tray is fully open, when it should be 0V. With the op-amp circuit pictured above that is still hanging off my 8163B at home, I measure 3.9V when the tray is closed and 1.25V when it is open, but these levels seem to be close enough.
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 4 2005, 04:15 PM)
LDOUT/Tray IN - What is it showing when the tray is in, when the tray is out. What should it be showing when the tray is in, and when the tray is out.
LDOUT is at 3.3V at all times except if the tray is fully closed, when it is at 0V (so really it's at 0V most of the time because "tray fully closed" is the normal state for the drive). TRAYIN should be at 5V at all times except if the tray is fully closed, when it should be at 0V.
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 4 2005, 04:15 PM)
If I can get this info, I can send it to work with my brother-in-law, and he can have an electrical engineer figure out what the best circuit is to get the job done.
That would be great, but please keep in mind (or ask your brother-in-law to ask the engineer to keep in mind) that we don't necessarily want the "best" circuit from an engineering point of view, but rather the smallest, simplest circuit that will do the job so that it can be easily installed and will fit in the limited space available inside the DVD drive.
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 4 2005, 04:15 PM)
Also, has anyone successfully used the firmware loader to load the 8050 firmware onto a gdr-8163b?
Unless they've patched it themselves or you've been distributing it, no-one but you and me has a copy of it.
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 04, 2005, 12:40:00 AM
Point #1 Outputs 0 volts when it should output 5 volts. Outputs 3.3 (3.20-3.25 actual) volts when it should output 0 volts.
Point #2 Outputs 3.3 (3.20-3.25 actual) volts when it should output 5 volts. Outputs 0 volts when it should output 0 volts (no prob here.)
5 Volt sources are available
Ground is available.
This circuit requires almost no current. The 0 volt values can be anything less than 1.5 volts, and the 5 volt values can be anything greater than 4.2 volts and still work correctly. The circuits must be very small, and very simple. The most precise circuit isnt the most important thing, the simplest, cheapest, and smallest circuit that can output the voltage within the tolerances is the most important thing. It is also very important that all the components used are available at radio shack, as a lot of people are going to be using the circuit.
Post by: hippo on March 04, 2005, 07:00:00 AM
Post by: wenid on March 04, 2005, 03:49:00 PM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 04, 2005, 08:22:00 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 04, 2005, 11:32:00 PM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Mar 4 2005, 07:21 PM)
well why dont we get all of the people who can do this in different ways, and come up a 'database' with different ways of doing this. i am sure there would be more then one way to do it, so why not tell the pople the different ways?
I myself, think that having multiple choices will just confuse people. I think that we should find a very simple circuit that is also cheap and available at radioshack. This will make it so that we can put out 1 really nice tutorial.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 04, 2005, 11:50:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 5 2005, 04:31 PM)
I myself, think that having multiple choices will just confuse people. I think that we should find a very simple circuit that is also cheap and available at radioshack. This will make it so that we can put out 1 really nice tutorial.
ok, fair enough. its just that i would like to be able to see all of the options, so that i can choose the one that suits me teh most.
but your right, many options will confuse the less technically minded of us.
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 05, 2005, 12:12:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Mar 4 2005, 10:49 PM)
ok, fair enough. its just that i would like to be able to see all of the options, so that i can choose the one that suits me teh most.
but your right, many options will confuse the less technically minded of us.
but your right, many options will confuse the less technically minded of us.
I don't see a problem giving out all the options, but when it comes time to putting out a tutorial we should decide on one, and not release multiple tutorials. I can just see someone mixing up 2 different circuits. So, 1 tutorial, and all the options posted on a webpage or a forum thread is prob the best idea.
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 05, 2005, 05:35:00 AM
Please take a look at the following data sheets
Hef general specifications
http://www.standardp...df/hef4049b.pdf
Quadruple true/complementing buffer
http://www.standardp...df/hef4041b.pdf
This is a long time ago for me too but this should be the way to go
Just hook up and go, (if i'm not forgetting something ofcourse)
A few current limiting resistors would be all that's needed (To make sure nothing happens)
A reed relais is a simple device and the current needed isn't that high, but if that 3.3v output can't handle it it's byebye dvd drive.
And it's a logic problem so lets use digital logic to solve it
Wenid: thanks for getting the firm. image for us, great work!!
(Does someone have any experience with decompiling firmwares?, isn't that 8051 compatible?!?)
Going to the sore to get a lg drive
Post by: wenid on March 05, 2005, 08:36:00 AM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 5 2005, 10:41 PM)
I don't know why this ended up actually being a link to a hex inverting buffer, but if you really did read the "Family Specifications" (which can be found at http://www.standardp...pdf/hefspec.pdf), then you may have noticed the minimum "Input voltage HIGH" (with a 5V supply) is specified as 3.5V. This is the same problem we started with, in a sense.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 5 2005, 10:41 PM)
Not sure why you mentioned this chip -- a hex inverter would do the trick if we had the right levels, but if we had the right levels we'd only need to invert one signal. The only problem with the other signal is the low voltage.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 5 2005, 10:41 PM)
A few current limiting resistors would be all that's needed (To make sure nothing happens)
I still think that a 7405 (or similar -- 74L05 etc) would probably do the trick. It should see the 3.3V as a high level signal and it can provide 5V output highs. The drawback is that the high voltage outputs are made possible by open collector outputs so they ALL need to be tied high, even the ones not being used. It may be OK to tie more than one thru a single resistor, but even so it's quite a bit of extra fiddle.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 5 2005, 10:41 PM)
A reed relais is a simple device and the current needed isn't that high, but if that 3.3v output can't handle it it's byebye dvd drive.
Indeed. I don't know what it's like in other parts of the world, but reed relays with 3.3V pickup voltage are not easy to come by in my neck of the woods.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 5 2005, 10:41 PM)
And it's a logic problem so lets use digital logic to solve it
Trouble is that it's not really a logic problem. Only the inverting is a logic problem, and that's a no-brainer. The difficult problem is turning the 3.3V signals into 5V signals (or whatever).
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 5 2005, 10:41 PM)
Wenid: thanks for getting the firm. image for us, great work!!
You're most welcome. It was a right pain, so I hope it turns out to have been worth it in the end.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 5 2005, 10:41 PM)
(Does someone have any experience with decompiling firmwares?, isn't that 8051 compatible?!?)
Not me. As I understand it this firmware is at least partly encrypted. What I DO know about disassembling microcontroller code for these kinds of devices is enough to let me know I don't want to get into it any further.
Post by: HunTerror on March 05, 2005, 01:25:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 3 2005, 07:58 PM)
I lashed together a quick "protoype" op-amp circuit this morning. Once again the LDIN/TRAYOUT is fine (but not quite what I expected -- see below) but the LDOUT/TRAYIN is not working as expected. Clearly I'm even more hopeless at this than I thought. In case anyone else can shed any light, here's a schematic of what I did.
As I said, the LDIN/TRAYOUT op-amp is working as expected, except that when LDIN is high TRAYOUT is 1.25V, not 0V. With my limited understanding of this stuff I'm not sure why this is happening, but I don't think it matters since 1.25V is low enough anyway. Also, when LDIN is low TRAYOUT only shows 3.9V, not 5V. When I was playing with the transistor inverter circuit I measured the TRAYOUT voltage both with and without it hooked up to the Xbox. It showed well over 4V when disconnected but only 3.9V when connected, so I'm guessing it's somehow due to the load on TRAYOUT from the Xbox.
With the LDOUT/TRAYIN op-amp I'm reading 3.9V at TRAYIN all the time, no matter what the state of the LDOUT signal.
As I said, the LDIN/TRAYOUT op-amp is working as expected, except that when LDIN is high TRAYOUT is 1.25V, not 0V. With my limited understanding of this stuff I'm not sure why this is happening, but I don't think it matters since 1.25V is low enough anyway. Also, when LDIN is low TRAYOUT only shows 3.9V, not 5V. When I was playing with the transistor inverter circuit I measured the TRAYOUT voltage both with and without it hooked up to the Xbox. It showed well over 4V when disconnected but only 3.9V when connected, so I'm guessing it's somehow due to the load on TRAYOUT from the Xbox.
With the LDOUT/TRAYIN op-amp I'm reading 3.9V at TRAYIN all the time, no matter what the state of the LDOUT signal.
I think you're on the right track with using a simple opamp as an inverter / level shifter. However, the TL072 wasn't really intended as a single-supply opamp and you are likely getting issues because of that. I'd try the same circuit with an LM324 (4 opamps per package, available at Rat Shack too)
From an EE standpoint, using an LM339 comparator would be even better, but since you'd require some pullup resistors on the output, it may be more difficult for some. The circuit could be the same as what you've showed.
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 05, 2005, 06:47:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 5 2005, 03:42 PM)
I don't know why this ended up actually being a link to a hex inverting buffer
Sorry, typing first and looking later doesn't work
(must have been inverted )And i thought of an earlyer project of mine that involved a 4041, but lets get back to the problem.
I've been looking at some datasheets(and reading too this time
), and why not use a 74hc04 (L1,35V -H3,15V) or a 74hct04 (L0,8V-H2V) (with VCC at 4,5v)The output is almost VCC so that would be almost 5V
http://www.semicondu...4HC_HCT04_3.pdf
(The 74HCU04 Isn't very well suited, don't buy that one!!)
Invert tray in, buffer the rest
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 5 2005, 03:42 PM)
Not me. As I understand it this firmware is at least partly encrypted. What I DO know about disassembling microcontroller code for these kinds of devices is enough to let me know I don't want to get into it any further.
They aren't using masks etc, maby if we compare both versions there would be an obvious reason why it doesn't work, as long as they didn't cut it out for those extra commands....well lets get it working first
Post by: wenid on March 05, 2005, 09:31:00 PM
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 6 2005, 06:24 AM)
I think you're on the right track with using a simple opamp as an inverter / level shifter. However, the TL072 wasn't really intended as a single-supply opamp and you are likely getting issues because of that. I'd try the same circuit with an LM324 (4 opamps per package, available at Rat Shack too)
:D Snap! I just got back from buying a couple of these very devices (as well as some 74LS05s). They are cheaper than the quad version of the TL072, too, but not as cheap as a 74LS05. The only reason I tried it with the TL072 in the first place was because I had some lying around.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 6 2005, 06:24 AM)
From an EE standpoint, using an LM339 comparator would be even better
Probably. I don't know much about comparators myself.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 6 2005, 06:24 AM)
but since you'd require some pullup resistors on the output, it may be more difficult for some.
That was the attraction of the op-amps that got me sidetracked from the 7405 idea (that and the fact that I had some op-amps on hand but no 7405s -- I now have both, however).
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 6 2005, 06:24 AM)
The circuit could be the same as what you've showed.
Except with pullups added, presumably ;)
Post by: wenid on March 05, 2005, 09:40:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 11:53 AM)
I've been looking at some datasheets(and reading too this time :D ), and why not use a 74hc04 (L1,35V -H3,15V) or a 74hct04 (L0,8V-H2V) (with VCC at 4,5v)
I don't know what you're looking at, but to me it looks like the minimum voltage input HIGH on this is 3.15V at Vcc of 4.5V. That's cutting it a little close for my liking since the actual high is only measuring as 3.22V here and the Vcc will be 5V.
However it may still work and avoids the need for the pullup resistors that I'll have to use with a 74x05.
Anyway, I'll try one of these 74LS05s shortly and let y'all know...
Post by: wenid on March 06, 2005, 12:12:00 AM
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 06, 2005, 04:14:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 6 2005, 04:39 AM)
That's cutting it a little close for my liking since the actual high is only measuring as 3.22V here and the Vcc will be 5V.
Thought we were talking about 3,3V, well ok, Lets use a 74HCT04 then, its high at 2v and its low on 0,8 at vcc 4,5-5,5V is perfect, no way near 3,22V
In the hc/hct design guides it says that all unused imputs should be tied to VCC through an 1,2KOhms resistor, and if we use two of the ports to buffer another one of the signals it should be easy to connect, no mention of output termination or so...probably not needed.
Isn't the pinout of the 04 and the 05 the same?, then why are you driving output pin 4,6,8 high and tieing it to output pin 2?(inverted ldout)
(probably a stupid question)
Have to go to the store next week, we don't have electronics stores everywhere here.
p.s. the scematic looks alot easyer than the other ones, this is defenately the way to go
Post by: wenid on March 06, 2005, 10:09:00 AM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 09:13 PM)
Thought we were talking about 3,3V
We are, nominally. This particular drive in this particular Xbox is only reading 3.22V, however, and I'd guess that's not unusual. These aren't exactly high-precision systems, after all.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 09:13 PM)
well ok, Lets use a 74HCT04 then, its high at 2v and its low on 0,8 at vcc 4,5-5,5V is perfect, no way near 3,22V
In the hc/hct design guides it says that all unused imputs should be tied to VCC through an 1,2KOhms resistor
In the hc/hct design guides it says that all unused imputs should be tied to VCC through an 1,2KOhms resistor
The '05 has the advantage that ANY 74x05 will do. Not so the '04s -- it's gotta be an HCT. I don't know how easy they are to come by, but neither of the local electronics shops here have them. (I didn't notice when I looked at the datasheet before that there were separate pages for the HC and the HCT for some some of the spec's -- sorry about that).
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 09:13 PM)
Isn't the pinout of the 04 and the 05 the same?
Yes
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 09:13 PM)
then why are you driving output pin 4,6,8 high and tieing it to output pin 2?(inverted ldout)
(probably a stupid question)
(probably a stupid question)
The 05 is an open-collector outputs version of the 04, which is how you get the higher output high voltage. The outputs need to be tied high because of the open collector (although I don't know if it would really matter if you left the unused inverters totally unconnected at both the input and output). The unused outputs are tied high through the same resistor as pin 2 simply to save on resistors and keep it a bit simpler. The only complication to this is that it effectively ORs the outputs so all the corresponding inputs must be low (so that all their outputs will be high and only the output controlled by LDOUT is having any real effect).
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 09:13 PM)
Have to go to the store next week, we don't have electronics stores everywhere here.
We don't have them everywhere here either, at least not good ones.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 09:13 PM)
p.s. the scematic looks alot easyer than the other ones, this is defenately the way to go
Sorry, but I have to disagree with you there. I think that if simplicity is the most important feature then op-amps will probably be the way to go. I'm going to try another experiment with them tomorrow, but this time using an LM324, as mentioned earlier. These cost a bit more than 74x05 chips, but if it saves enough fiddling then it's probably worth the extra dollar for the chip. Also, if I can get it to work using only two op-amps, then we could use an LM358 dual op-amp chip instead of the LM324 quad and end up with a smaller package to be fitted inside the DVD drive. The shop I buy these bits from charges the same for the LM358 as for the LM324, so it's a bit of a rip-off in that regard, but if two of the LM324 op-amps would be unused anyway, why worry? (On the other hand we may have another use for one or both of those op-amps down the track -- there's still the ready signal and that mystery pin that I think has something to do with the "Init" status).
Post by: HunTerror on March 06, 2005, 08:35:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 6 2005, 9:13 PM)
The '05 has the advantage that ANY 74x05 will do. Not so the '04s -- it's gotta be an HCT. I don't know how easy they are to come by, but neither of the local electronics shops here have them. (I didn't notice when I looked at the datasheet before that there were separate pages for the HC and the HCT for some some of the spec's -- sorry about that).
Not so sure I agree here. The VinHiMin and VinLoMax values will be purely dependant on the family (HC, HCT, LS, etc) not the part itself. So using open-collector/drain parts won't change the input characteristics.
I may be misunderstanding you, but just wanted to clear that up.
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 6 2005, 10:18 PM)
OK. Here's the latest, but this one actually works. It's not as clean and simple as I was hoping for, however.
That's pretty good. I presume that chip is a 74LS05 (low-speed CMOS hex inverter w/ open-collector outputs, correct? It should work for all designs, because the LS VinLo is only 2V.
However, you probably don't need to bother with connecting unused inputs. They recommend it, but for a design like this, it's simpler without. Either way, you certainly don't need to bother with connecting the unused output pins.
I'd say put this in a tutorial and ship out. The only caveat being that I can see people immediately ignoring the LS part and buying HC parts, innundating the board with "why does my drive not work?" questions.
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 6 2005, 08:08 AM)
I'm going to try another experiment with them tomorrow, but this time using an LM324, as mentioned earlier. These cost a bit more than 74x05 chips, but if it saves enough fiddling then it's probably worth the extra dollar for the chip.
Do we really worry about $2-$3 ? Most people will probably spend more on gasolline or shipping just to get these chips. If you order in quantity, it's even much cheaper.
Either way, I'm bettng both 324 and 358 will work just fine. The 324 is available in most hobby-type electronic shop, so I presume availability would be good. Not sure how important sizing is, however. How much room do we have in the drive casing? Seems like there should be a fair bit of empty room, no?
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 6 2005, 07:30 AM)
Probably. I don't know much about comparators myself.
Opamps actually are internally "slowed down" so the device remains stable even at higher frequencies. They are otherwise almost identical to a comparator, which means the comparators will switch faster (hi to lo, etc) and is sometimes important for a digital system. I'm betting the 324 should be fast enough here, and certainly smipler.
What about just using a 74LS04 (74HCT04)? No pullups, etc.
Thanks for playing the guinea pig... Any chance I could get a copy of that code downloader and maybe contribute?
Post by: wenid on March 06, 2005, 10:37:00 PM
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
Not so sure I agree here. The VinHiMin and VinLoMax values will be purely dependant on the family (HC, HCT, LS, etc) not the part itself.
Sorry. You're right. I was a bit over-ethusiastic saying "any" 05. I really meant 7405, 74L05 or 74LS05, and possibly others.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
That's pretty good. I presume that chip is a 74LS05 (low-speed CMOS hex inverter w/ open-collector outputs, correct? It should work for all designs, because the LS VinLo is only 2V.
Yes, the chips I have are LS05s, but according to the data sheet I have the plain 05 and the L05 both have 2V VinLo.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
However, you probably don't need to bother with connecting unused inputs.
Agreed. I only did so because I had tied the outputs high through the same resistor I was using for the first LDOUT/TRAYIN stage so I needed to ensure those outputs wouldn't drag the "communal" output low.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
They recommend it, but for a design like this, it's simpler without. Either way, you certainly don't need to bother with connecting the unused output pins.
OK. Thanks for confirmation on that. It will certainly simplify things if we can just basically ignore the three unused inverters.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
I'd say put this in a tutorial and ship out.
If anyone else wants to do so I will not object. Personally I'm not ready to do that yet, and I may not do it even when I am ready. Even these postings are a more of a drain on my time than I can really afford.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
The only caveat being that I can see people immediately ignoring the LS part and buying HC parts, innundating the board with "why does my drive not work?" questions.
Indeed. I'm still not convinced that this is the "best" way to go anyway. I'm still quite attracted to the op-amp approach if I can get it working more simply.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
Do we really worry about $2-$3 ? Most people will probably spend more on gasolline or shipping just to get these chips. If you order in quantity, it's even much cheaper.
I worry about it because I will probably be selling modified drives and "in business, every dollar counts". However, in the case of 324s vs 358s it doesn't matter if the 358s are more expensive per op-amp if you wouldn't be using half the 324's op-amps anyway.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
Either way, I'm bettng both 324 and 358 will work just fine. The 324 is available in most hobby-type electronic shop, so I presume availability would be good. Not sure how important sizing is, however. How much room do we have in the drive casing? Seems like there should be a fair bit of empty room, no?
There is quite a bit of empty space at any given moment, but a lot of it is clearance for things going up and down or in and out. The other thing of course is that ideally you want the space to be near where the wiring connects to the circuit board so that you don't need to have wires trailing all over the place. Even disregarding all that, I would think it's probably easier to just sort of "jam it in somewhere" if it's half the size.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
Opamps actually are internally "slowed down" so the device remains stable even at higher frequencies. They are otherwise almost identical to a comparator, which means the comparators will switch faster (hi to lo, etc) and is sometimes important for a digital system. I'm betting the 324 should be fast enough here, and certainly smipler.
Ah-ha. Thanks for that. I certainly wouldn't think speed is a big issue here either.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 7 2005, 01:34 PM)
What about just using a 74LS04 (74HCT04)? No pullups, etc.
My original reason for rejecting them was that the datasheet I have lists the VoutHi as 3.4V at Vcc=5V. I'm think that we're dealing with CMOS inputs that want 4V or thereabouts.
I'll PM you about the firmware flasher momentarily (couldn't quote that bit of your post. Dunno why. Too many quotes, maybe...?).
Post by: marc_25 on March 07, 2005, 11:44:00 PM
I eject the tray and it looks like I have the HITACHI Drive.. :o ..
HERE'S A PICTURE:
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/marc_25/newxobx.jpg)
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 08, 2005, 03:33:00 AM
QUOTE(marc_25 @ Mar 8 2005, 04:43 PM)
I just picked up a brand new Xbox today. The mfg. date is 01/26/2005
I eject the tray and it looks like I have the HITACHI Drive.. :o ..
HERE'S A PICTURE:
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/marc_25/newxobx.jpg)
I eject the tray and it looks like I have the HITACHI Drive.. :o ..
HERE'S A PICTURE:
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/marc_25/newxobx.jpg)
kool, definitley looks like a hitachi-lg drive
Post by: marc_25 on March 08, 2005, 01:02:00 PM
My previous one with the CRAPOLA Thompson Drive died, I replaced it with a brand new Thompson but still no go on the DVDs.
Decided its time to get a NEW ONE....... :)
Post by: wenid on March 09, 2005, 05:34:00 PM
Post by: TheMarine on March 09, 2005, 07:38:00 PM
this DVD drive is great.. I went from using the crappy thompson to the newest best DVD drive in an xbox yet..
Post by: HunTerror on March 09, 2005, 07:52:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 9 2005, 03:33 PM)
The thing that's bugging me is the same thing that always bothered me when I modified SD-616Ts, which is that I never get an "Init" status and the "Unknown" status comes up while the disc tray is opening (ie. neither opened nor closed but in the process of opening). I've often wondered if the one wire on the "yellow wires" connector that we don't connect to anything is supposed to carry a signal that would fix this up.
That's cool! I don't quite have the time right now to do a drive myself, but maybe I can still help. Could you explain what you mean by this "Init" status stuff?
1) Where is it displayed? Ie In the XMBC status info screen, etc?
2) Does it affect normal operation in any way?
I'm led to wonder what purpose such a signal would have, as well.
Post by: wenid on March 09, 2005, 09:19:00 PM
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 10 2005, 12:51 PM)
Could you explain what you mean by this "Init" status stuff?
1) Where is it displayed? Ie In the XMBC status info screen, etc?
1) Where is it displayed? Ie In the XMBC status info screen, etc?
I don't know if XBMC reports the DVD drive status at all (I don't use XBMC much). I have just been using EvoX dash to monitor the drive status. "Init" is what EvoX displays after you close the tray with a disc in it. this is normally followed by "Checking" and then "Game", "EvoX CD!", or "Unknown". Unknown is the same as "dirty disc", style-o'fing. I can't remember off hand whether or not "Init" is displayed before "No Disc" when the tray is closed empty and I'm at work right now so I can't check.
QUOTE(HunTerror @ Mar 10 2005, 12:51 PM)
2) Does it affect normal operation in any way?
It doesn't seem to make any real difference while running a hacked dashboard (except that the DVD drive status can be misleading at times). When running the M$ dashboard you get the "dirty disc" error message flashing up on the screen every time you eject the tray, but I don't think that the Init thing is much of an issue.
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 10, 2005, 01:25:00 AM
can you post a pci of where and how everythign is wired up? i keen to see a tut on doing this
Post by: otherguy on March 10, 2005, 10:06:00 AM
I finally got an HL drive i could swap out (too late unfortunately) - i may be able to get my hands on quite a few of the pc drives though - seems that a few premade jobs we have in our labs have some HL DATA drives in the - something i hadn't noticed till the other day.
Anyways - where do we stand?
Post by: Shortacid on March 12, 2005, 06:52:00 PM
1******-50505
LNNNNNN-YWWFF
So most of you know already but as i needed it worded out once,
L- Line 1
NNNNNNN-Box Number
Y- Year 5
WW- Week 05
FF- Factory China 5
Looks good, alright, hey every little bit helps. Later guys hope you get that tut. put together, Keep it simple wenid man, easier on us layman.
Sorry, didn't crack it open either and probably won't with this one either, at least not for a year.
Also wanted to add, it is so SLOW to eject and open, i don't know if it is with everyone, I get impatient with minute rice, and i notice like a possible difference of a second, but it doesn't pop out like my old thomson (2003). And no luck with cd-r's either.
This post has been edited by Shortacid: Mar 13 2005, 02:57 AM
Post by: wenid on March 12, 2005, 11:48:00 PM
Post by: crazygreekangelo on March 13, 2005, 06:09:00 PM
Post by: truBB on March 14, 2005, 12:28:00 AM
Thanks to wenid for the excellent work... and others involved.
1. Parts & Tools list:
LG model GDR-8163B (figure 1 & figure 2)
hook up wire 26-28AWG
soldering iron & solder
LM324N Op-Amp or equivalent
1Kohm resistor (quantity 2)
phillips screwdriver
xbox
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/01LG_drive.JPG)
Figure 1
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/02LG_label.JPG)
Figure 2
2. Flip over the dvdrom.
Remove screws shown:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/03back_cover.jpg)
You should now see the bottom:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/04cover_removed.JPG)
3. Solder points, solder the wires to the points shown. Label your wires. (another pic from LordRaiden)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/06solderpoints.JPG)
4. Wires soldered.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/07soldered_wires.JPG)
5. Cut out notch for wire feedthru
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/09slotcut.JPG)
6. Route wires thru circuit board
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/08wires.JPG)
and thru the feed thru:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/10wiresthru.JPG)
7. Hook up circuit as shown:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/12_schematic.jpg)
8. flash dvdrom... to be added...
Yeah, I know, I'm not nearly done with this tutorial. But its a start...
If anyone can figure out how to fix the "ready" signal, I'll update the schematic.
Here's my mock up
(I'm over my limit in pics for this post)
I tried a bunch of stuff with the ready signal, but failed miserably. It doesn't need to be inverted, as some might think. I just noticed that if I hold 'ready' on the xbox side to 5VDC, it fails apon boot with no dvd in. If I hold 'ready' on the xbox side to grnd, with a dvd inside, it boots the dvd. If I hold 'ready' on the xbox side to grnd, with no dvd inside, it boots to the hard drive.
In short:
XBOX side:
ready = 5VDC, dvd inside
ready = gnd, boots dvd if found, then defaults on HD.
GDR-8163B side:
ready = 4.33 w/ dvd inside
ready = floating w/out dvd
If I plug 'ready' in as shown in the schematic, the voltage reads 3.84VDC w/ dvd inside.
Another note, I have also ordered the IDE FLASHER from Germany. (any help on using this thing would be appreciated.. ahem, ahem, wenid)
This post has been edited by truBB: Mar 14 2005, 08:32 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 14, 2005, 02:03:00 AM
Post by: LordRaiden on March 14, 2005, 05:37:00 AM
This post has been edited by LordRaiden: Mar 14 2005, 01:37 PM
Post by: wenid on March 14, 2005, 09:27:00 AM
QUOTE(LordRaiden @ Mar 14 2005, 10:07 PM)
a last my points are are valid!!!!
Sorry, but no. I don't know why truBB assumed I was using your points. I am not.
I may well be wrong, but the point he has marked as LDin does not appear to match your Y point anyway and either way it's wrong. That point is connected to a pin on the ROM chip, so I did once have a wire connected to it, but only during the fun and games of flashing the ROM. The LDin point I'm using is actually labelled LDIN on the 8163B circuit board and is near the LDOUT point.
For my ready signal I'm currently using a kludge based on tracing back the signal on my real 8050L drive. I don't know if it's really working properly, but I do know that the same approach did NOT work for TRAYIN and TRAYOUT (although it might be worth revisiting these -- maybe they are the right polarity but the wrong voltage). I'm also pretty sure that the ready signal used here is not right either, as evidenced by truBB's experience and measurements.
I almost certainly won't have time to do much of anything on this for a while, possibly quite a long while, but if/when I can squeeze it in I'll be working on the flashing program first.
I haven't got my notes handy right now, but at some point I'll try to post more info about the points I traced etc.
Post by: wenid on March 14, 2005, 09:33:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 14 2005, 04:58 PM)
Another note, I have also ordered the IDE FLASHER from Germany. (any help on using this thing would be appreciated.. ahem, ahem, wenid)
I'll help if I can, but the whole thing is fiddly, complicated, and took me several hours all told. I certainly don't have time to go into all the gory details here, so I'm afraid you'll have to work out as much as you can on your own and PM me (or post here if you like) with specific questions if/when you have problems.
PS. Good work on the beginnings of the tut. It's looking pretty good except for that little problem of the points, which isn't really your fault since I never posted complete info on what points I'm using.
Post by: truBB on March 14, 2005, 10:21:00 AM
LordRaiden, could you help me find ready? Duh, if LDin is labeled on the board, I'll correct this tonight...
This post has been edited by truBB: Mar 14 2005, 06:26 PM
Post by: LordRaiden on March 14, 2005, 11:17:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 14 2005, 04:51 PM)
Doh, snafu on the LDin point. I soldered it per Lordraiden's points, just didn't show the pic correctly. ..Yeah these points are hosed...
LordRaiden, could you help me find ready? Duh, if LDin is labeled on the board, I'll correct this tonight...
LordRaiden, could you help me find ready? Duh, if LDin is labeled on the board, I'll correct this tonight...
Try this for the ready signal.
Ready
Post by: truBB on March 14, 2005, 01:21:00 PM
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/LDin.jpg)
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 14, 2005, 07:38:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 12 2005, 11:47 PM)
I finally set myself up to test the patched version of the Windows 8163B firmware updater and have found that it doesn't work. Maybe it does some kind of CRC check or something on the ROM image. I will try to have a look at it in a dbugger soon, or maybe Lente could get back to the Dangerous Bros. about it.
I am working on the flashing issue. I still don't have a 8163b, so when I get a version that may work I will send it to wenid or someone else who has a 8163b they would like to test with. I will keep you all notified when any breaks happen.
Post by: wenid on March 14, 2005, 11:07:00 PM
I am currently using a 1k resistor between the test point and the wire to the Xbox because there is a 1k resistor in the 8050L circuitry that is "missing" from the 8163B. I don't know if this is necessary at all. I also haven't actually made any measurements of the voltage at this point -- it may be totally bogus.
This post has been edited by wenid: Mar 15 2005, 07:09 AM
Post by: Kdawg22 on March 14, 2005, 11:08:00 PM
This post has been edited by Kdawg22: Mar 15 2005, 07:08 AM
Post by: truBB on March 14, 2005, 11:32:00 PM
I'm going to try a few more things...
Post by: wenid on March 15, 2005, 06:52:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 15 2005, 04:02 PM)
Well, no go on the ready signal still.
Bugger. Now does that mean my drive here should not be working at all...?
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 15 2005, 04:02 PM)
I'm not sure about this, but I think the opamp isn't going to do the trick.
Sorry to disagree, but it DOES do the trick. It's what I've got in the working drive here right now.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 15 2005, 04:02 PM)
Or my wiring diagram is screwed up.
I've just looked at it again (more closely this time) and you've shown pin 11 unconnected. It needs to be connected to ground.
This post has been edited by wenid: Mar 15 2005, 02:52 PM
Post by: truBB on March 15, 2005, 11:04:00 AM
I have LDin & LDout soldered to the dvdrom correctly now. I also have Eject correctly soldered. Do you know where Ready should be?
Should it be here?
(IMG:http://jamolero.eresmas.net/ready.jpg) or someplace else?
I realize that you [wenid] have it working, I'm just trying to duplicate your work. I appreciate all the help.
Post by: wenid on March 15, 2005, 04:27:00 PM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 16 2005, 03:34 AM)
Do you know where Ready should be?
Not really. See post #370 for a description of what I did here.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 16 2005, 03:34 AM)
I realize that you [wenid] have it working, I'm just trying to duplicate your work. I appreciate all the help.
I have it working in the sense that I can use it, but I'm not sure that it's all functioning exactly as it should be because I haven't had time to test it properly.
This post has been edited by wenid: Mar 16 2005, 12:28 AM
Post by: truBB on March 16, 2005, 12:23:00 AM
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/back_of_LG.jpg)
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 16, 2005, 03:03:00 PM
Wenid has tested it, and it appears to work.
Warning, you will be risking killing your drive. If you want to test this flashing program please remove any other cd or dvd drives from your computer. I don't want to be responsable for someone flashing 8050l firmware to their new dvd burner by mistake.
Post by: freaky_00 on March 16, 2005, 05:23:00 PM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 14 2005, 06:58 AM)
Another note, I have also ordered the IDE FLASHER from Germany. (any help on using this thing would be appreciated.. ahem, ahem, wenid)
If you need any help I could TRY to translate. I don't know if I am good enough for it but it could be worth a try since I am from germany!
First of all here is the program available for download and the german manual (Handbuch).
Chapter 3 adresses jumpering for different sizes of the flash used. Chapter 4 adresses the use of the IDE FLASHER. There is a bunch of "Hinweise" (hints to prevent destroying of the IDE FLASHER or the ICs) which should be followed. These are to much to handle but you could try
world.altavista.com or you could try http://dict.leo.org/?lang=de&lp=ende
The second is a dictionary. You have to use the field under the flags!!!
Chapter 5 Software: ideflash.exe is a PURE dos application and should only be used under dos. You should be able to use it under Win9x/MEs Dosbox. It DOSN'T WORK under 2000 or XP!!! Nothing is said about NT or 2003
The option "-port" tells the app which IDE port the flasher is connected to. "0" means primary IDE, "1" is secondary, 2 and 3 are the following ports! The option "-socket" is used to specify the IC socket. Possible values are DIP32 or PLCC32. The option "-hardware" is new. Possible values are "RevD", "RevE" or "RevF". Most users need to use "RevF". The other values are reserved for older revisions of the hardware. This option could be used to show required jumpering or to control revision specific parameters. Reading out flashs of 1MB is only supported since Rev. F. ALL OPTIONS ARE CASE SENSITIVE. dip32 and DIP32 are differentiated. The correct option would be DIP32!
Note : Before you start to overwrite possibly the only bios chip you have you should do the update on a second chip so you will still have the original. A backup of the old chip which you can reflash.
FlashROM read to file:
"ideflash -port 1 -hardware RevF -socket DIP32 -f_read <file>"
Before writing don't forget to erase:
"ideflash -port 1 -hardware RevF -socket DIP32 -f_erase"
Write from file to FlashROM:
"ideflash -port 1 -hardware RevF -socket DIP32 -f_write <file>"
Hope this will help a bit.
Post by: truBB on March 17, 2005, 12:32:00 AM
I have been quite busy for the last couple days playing around with this setup. I plugged in a Thompson back in, and read the values from eVox:
"ready"
"no cd"
"ejecting"
"Open"
"checking"
"[name of cd]"
I tried all the points that I showed above as 'ready' points, but still no success. I usually end up with evox saying "unknown" once the dvd is in and ready. I get the closest results with using the cyan point, as ready (shown above). I also was connecting the ready point thru a 1Kohm resistor.
Also, I swapped pin 3 & 4 on the xbox connector side to get eVox so show the right info. So basically:
LDin ===> inverted ====== to pin 3 (trayin)
LDout ==> non-inverted === to pin 4 (trayout)
something like this:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/12_schematic.jpg)
and for the solder pnts: (except for ready)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/06solderpoints.JPG)
I did measure pin 10 on my thompson and got:
0V = not ready
3.2V = after init, and ready.
Other voltages seem to correlate with the linux dvd howto.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 03:25:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 16 2005, 04:53 PM)
Any of these?
The one I'm using is the one you have ringed in dark blue.
The labelling on your board seems to be different to mine. On my board it says TP126 next to this point and the writing is sort of around the other way to the writing near this point on your board (ie. sort of vertical instead of horizontal, if you see what I mean). I'll have a look at the board in the newer drive when I get around to dismantling it.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 03:59:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 17 2005, 05:02 PM)
Thanks freaky_00, that info will help. Seems pretty straight forward, as long as I keep ESD safe. I have a couple linux machines, so I'll plug it into one of those.
I used a GNU/Linux box too. You just need to build the ctflasher kernel modules and you're away, basically.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 17 2005, 05:02 PM)
I have been quite busy for the last couple days playing around with this setup. I plugged in a Thompson back in, and read the values from eVox:
"ready"
"no cd"
"ejecting"
"Open"
"checking"
"[name of cd]"
"ready"
"no cd"
"ejecting"
"Open"
"checking"
"[name of cd]"
No "Init"?
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 17 2005, 05:02 PM)
I tried all the points that I showed above as 'ready' points, but still no success. I usually end up with evox saying "unknown" once the dvd is in and ready.
If you're using Xbox original discs then it will always say "Unknown" until you flash the Xbox firmware to the drive. I don't think the unknown status is related to the ready signal, at least not directly. The "No Disc" message is a different story, however...
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 17 2005, 05:02 PM)
Also, I swapped pin 3 & 4 on the xbox connector side to get eVox so show the right info. So basically:
LDin ===> inverted ====== to pin 3 (trayin)
LDout ==> non-inverted === to pin 4 (trayout)
LDin ===> inverted ====== to pin 3 (trayin)
LDout ==> non-inverted === to pin 4 (trayout)
That may be right -- I may have had the tray in and tray out the wrong way around all along, but I don't think so. The LDIN and LDOUT signals are very similar. The only difference is when they switch from low to high (and back again). One goes high as soon as the tray starts opening and the other doesn't go high until the tray is fully open. How does this timing relate to the changes in the EvoX display for a "real" Xbox DVD drive?
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 17 2005, 05:02 PM)
I did measure pin 10 on my thompson and got:
0V = not ready
3.2V = after init, and ready.
0V = not ready
3.2V = after init, and ready.
Just to clarify: are you saying that it goes from 0V to 3.2V at the same time as the display changes from init to checking?
Post by: Tiros on March 17, 2005, 11:25:00 AM
You should trace the connection directly from the yellow wire for "ready" to the microprocessor I/O pin that performs this function in a STOCK xbox drive first, Then find the equiv. connection point on your replacement drive. AFTER you flash the xbox FW, that point will become the "ready" signal.
BTW I would use a 74HC14 for the level shifting and inversion. You can run through 2 gates for the signal that doesn't need inversion. No resistors or other BS.
But it seems this unit doesn't read CDR after the mod....so what good is it?
Post by: yohan666 on March 17, 2005, 02:57:00 PM
This is what I was thinking.
1. A cheap replacement. I can get one of these LG GDR-8163b drives for 25$. In the case of replacing my old Thompson. DVD R's are so cheap and most games dont even fit on CD R anyway.
2. Possibly a stronger Laser, faster read times, more media compatability.
Next thing I was thinking about was the differences between the 2 drives.
Xbox LG has different circuitry, but same chipset as PC drive?
PC LG Better Lazer?
If the drives are close enough and someone already has the LG drive in their Xbox, can they buy the PC LG and just take the lazer out from the PC drive and put it in the Xbox drive, in theory making their drive stronger with out having to go through all this modding?
Post by: dbzfanhater on March 17, 2005, 03:02:00 PM
This post has been edited by dbzfanhater: Mar 17 2005, 11:08 PM
Post by: BCIcdrz on March 17, 2005, 03:41:00 PM
i think the K for the black bazel
ones without the K are white
Post by: truBB on March 17, 2005, 04:03:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 17 2005, 12:55 AM)
The one I'm using is the one you have ringed in dark blue.
The labelling on your board seems to be different to mine. On my board it says TP126 next to this point and the writing is sort of around the other way to the writing near this point on your board (ie. sort of vertical instead of horizontal, if you see what I mean). I'll have a look at the board in the newer drive when I get around to dismantling it.
The labelling on your board seems to be different to mine. On my board it says TP126 next to this point and the writing is sort of around the other way to the writing near this point on your board (ie. sort of vertical instead of horizontal, if you see what I mean). I'll have a look at the board in the newer drive when I get around to dismantling it.
According to what you wrote before, TP126 is on the board of the other dvdrom (8050L) you have? If you also look closely at my pic above you can see that there is "TP126" on the left side, directly in-line with the blue point.
That blue point measured 5VDC for me, both with dvd-in and out.
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 17 2005, 01:29 AM)
I used a GNU/Linux box too. You just need to build the ctflasher kernel modules and you're away, basically.
No "Init"?
If you're using Xbox original discs then it will always say "Unknown" until you flash the Xbox firmware to the drive. I don't think the unknown status is related to the ready signal, at least not directly. The "No Disc" message is a different story, however...
That may be right -- I may have had the tray in and tray out the wrong way around all along, but I don't think so. The LDIN and LDOUT signals are very similar. The only difference is when they switch from low to high (and back again). One goes high as soon as the tray starts opening and the other doesn't go high until the tray is fully open. How does this timing relate to the changes in the EvoX display for a "real" Xbox DVD drive?
Just to clarify: are you saying that it goes from 0V to 3.2V at the same time as the display changes from init to checking?
No "Init"?
If you're using Xbox original discs then it will always say "Unknown" until you flash the Xbox firmware to the drive. I don't think the unknown status is related to the ready signal, at least not directly. The "No Disc" message is a different story, however...
That may be right -- I may have had the tray in and tray out the wrong way around all along, but I don't think so. The LDIN and LDOUT signals are very similar. The only difference is when they switch from low to high (and back again). One goes high as soon as the tray starts opening and the other doesn't go high until the tray is fully open. How does this timing relate to the changes in the EvoX display for a "real" Xbox DVD drive?
Just to clarify: are you saying that it goes from 0V to 3.2V at the same time as the display changes from init to checking?
It definitely says 'checking' in eVox with the GDR-8162b. But, thats with my incorrect ready point. I forget if it says 'init' with the thompson, or 'checking'. Currently as I have it hooked up, if I float pin 10, (hold it in my hand for a sec) then ground it, it [eVox] detects the dvd correctly as 'evox-cd' or something similar.
The timing is different than what I expected, when using the Thompson. For instance, measuring the GDR-8162b, I get what you'd expect from the points:
GDR-8162b
_______closed__opening__open
LDin =___0_____3.6_____3.6
LDout =__0______0______3.6
Thompson
_______closed opening open
pin3 = _3.4______0_____0
pin4 = __0______0_____3.4
I'm quoting those #s from memory. I have 'em written down at home, I hope I got 'em right. I did attempt to get this working using an inverter, and only using LDin for both trayin & trayout without sucess. I went back to your orig config as it gives me the best results. Now that I look back, I think it wasn't working using the inverter only because I don't have the correct ready signal.
To clarify with the thomson,
When the dvd is actually ready, I measured 3.2vdc. I forget if its says 'checking or init'. Zero volts otherwise.
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on March 17, 2005, 05:18:00 PM
http://www.lge.com/catalog/prodmodeldetail...alSuffix=000000
edit:
has anyone tried the GDR-8163BII it seems to be the same as the GDR-8163B execpt it has a 512KB Cache Buffer size while the GDR-8163B only has 256KB.
This post has been edited by Maverick-DBZ-: Mar 18 2005, 01:30 AM
Post by: calisadork on March 17, 2005, 05:32:00 PM
Is there any speculation on whether or not there will be a software-only solution? That is, is it possible to have a PC program to replace the firmware in the 8163 drive with the 8050's firmware and then use that 8163 drive in an Xbox?
I understand that there would also have to be some wiring modifications and a simple logic circuit to make the hardware interface compatible with the Xbox.
I also understand that if after making the wiring modifications to an 8163 drive but not replacing its firmware that it will work in an Xbox, but it just won't read original Xbox discs? Is this correct?
Yes, I have read the entire thread. I've spent the last few hours doing so.
Thanks for your help.
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on March 17, 2005, 05:10:00 PM
Once I have the drive I'll be sure to post if it works for me.
edit: here is the readme file that Xbox-Scene posted on there main page. I really hope it works!
http://www.xbox-scen...uZleZTXnLjM.php
Post by: crazygreekangelo on March 17, 2005, 05:54:00 PM
EDIT: oops sorry, I guess Maverick-DBZ- beat me to the news. Anyway, I think I will try ordering one of these drives as soon as it becomes available again on newegg
This post has been edited by crazygreekangelo: Mar 18 2005, 01:59 AM
Post by: valius on March 17, 2005, 06:01:00 PM
nice job on the firmware.
got mine wired into my xbox & playing H2 right now.
Post by: valius on March 17, 2005, 07:01:00 PM
QUOTE
So did you wire up the LDin & LDout points too?
I've been working on it for the last week or so.. seems to me that you got it working super quick. If possible could you tell me where you got the firmware? #xbins?
I've been working on it for the last week or so.. seems to me that you got it working super quick. If possible could you tell me where you got the firmware? #xbins?
Hi truBB
If you check some of the earlier posts you will see that all I have been waiting for is the firmware for some time.
I used a nand gate & a tut put together ages ago by superfro to work it out.
Xbins is the place it is in the firmware flashing tools folder, you don't need the firmware bin file the flashing tool does it all for you.
I'll see if I can put a little diagram together for you, but not just now it's sleep time here in Scotland.
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on March 17, 2005, 06:25:00 PM
Hopefully I will have the same suggess once I get my drive.
Post by: valius on March 17, 2005, 07:19:00 PM
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/valius21/DSCF0561.jpg)
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/valius21/DSCF0560.jpg)
The only wire not hooked up here is the Eject signal.
I just took the drive out of my box, Its going into a friends box because his drive packed in, not tried cd-r's in it the firmware chaps say the firmware isn't set up to read cd-r's though.
Only tried a couple of games in it H2 & Unreal Championship both worked a treak.
YES it is a GDR-8163b
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on March 17, 2005, 06:45:00 PM
Post by: taximan89 on March 17, 2005, 07:47:00 PM
Post by: twistedsymphony on March 17, 2005, 07:42:00 PM
cheers to those who worked long and hard on finding a matching drive and getting the firmware.I just ordered one of these from new egg (they must be back in stock because it shipped already). also it would seem that mwave has them for about he same price (assuming the BK is the same as the
http://www.mwave.com...riteria=AA32910as far as all these problems with the ready signal I think Tiros has the right idea for finding the best location.
as for using an op-amp or NAND gate I'd have to side wit neither. While I can appreciate both methods an op-amp has no place in digital only circuitry and a NAND gate requires more wiring than needed. The same effect could be accomplished with an inverting buffer.
I'll be exploring this drive a lot more once I get it and hopefully then I can be of more use, until then...
keep up the good work
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on March 17, 2005, 08:39:00 PM
QUOTE(taximan89 @ Mar 17 2005, 05:17 PM)
So this firmware is to flash the xbox lg drive right with a PC drive firmware right? And there is no soldering involved?
No taximan89, you have it backwards. lol. :P
The firmware were talking about is to flash the LG PC drive with the LG Xbox firmware. You will still need to solder once the drive is flashed.
edit: newegg has the drives in stock again. I ordered two just in case. :D
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc....-136-050&DEPA=0
edit2: I don't think is the same drive at mwave twistedsymphony. The CD-Rom speed is 52x while the one on newegg is 48x. So far everyone has the 48x drive and that seems to be the only one working. I don't know if the BK one would work or not... :uhh:
This post has been edited by Maverick-DBZ-: Mar 18 2005, 04:50 AM
Post by: twistedsymphony on March 17, 2005, 09:15:00 PM
QUOTE(Maverick-DBZ- @ Mar 17 2005, 10:09 PM)
... I don't think is the same drive at mwave twistedsymphony. The CD-Rom speed is 52x while the one on newegg is 48x. So far everyone has the 48x drive and that seems to be the only one working. I don't know if the BK one would work or not... :uhh:
It might be beneficial to create a list of all the different possible versions of the LG drive, which ones work and which ones don't. Those into the 616 modding know that both the 616t and 616f drives work but the 616q doesn't.
I'm interested to know if the GDR-8163BII with the larger cache works as that could be an even more powerful drive.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 09:33:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 18 2005, 03:55 AM)
If you want this to work right you will need to find the "ready" signal.
That depends what you mean by "work right". According to truBB, the point I'm using for ready is no good, and yet this drive is working fine. It may not be perfect, but in practice who really cares?
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 18 2005, 03:55 AM)
You should trace the connection directly from the yellow wire for "ready" to the microprocessor I/O pin that performs this function in a STOCK xbox drive first, Then find the equiv. connection point on your replacement drive. AFTER you flash the xbox FW, that point will become the "ready" signal.
We are well aware of this approach. It has been mentioned before and this is, in fact, how I arrived at the ready point I am now using. The problem is that the circuitry in the 8163B is not absolutely identical to that in the 8050L, and some of the differences appear to affect these signals.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 18 2005, 03:55 AM)
BTW I would use a 74HC14 for the level shifting and inversion. You can run through 2 gates for the signal that doesn't need inversion. No resistors or other BS.
This device has already been considered and rejected. It's minimum high level input voltage is too high.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 18 2005, 03:55 AM)
But it seems this unit doesn't read CDR after the mod....so what good is it?
The same good as any other Xbox DVD drive that won't read CDRs, ie. still very useful, especially considering how cheap DVD burners and media are these days. Who needs CDRs anyway?
Post by: ChInEsE ChIcKeN on March 17, 2005, 09:36:00 PM
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 09:39:00 PM
QUOTE(yohan666 @ Mar 18 2005, 07:27 AM)
Next thing I was thinking about was the differences between the 2 drives.
Xbox LG has different circuitry, but same chipset as PC drive?
Xbox LG has different circuitry, but same chipset as PC drive?
There are only a few minor differences in the circuitry. Some are related to the different layout caused by the "yellow wires" connector vs. the standard PC power connection, and some appear to be related to the other yellow wires signals.
QUOTE(yohan666 @ Mar 18 2005, 07:27 AM)
PC LG Better Lazer?
Nope. Same laser.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 10:11:00 PM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
According to what you wrote before, TP126 is on the board of the other dvdrom (8050L) you have?
No, TP126 is only marked on the 8163B. Sorry for any confusion there.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
If you also look closely at my pic above you can see that there is "TP126" on the left side, directly in-line with the blue point.
I couldn't make out what it says. On my drive's board the writing is at right angles to how it appears on your board. Maybe we just have different revisions of the board.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
That blue point measured 5VDC for me, both with dvd-in and out.
OK. I'll check mine at some point.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
It definitely says 'checking' in eVox with the GDR-8162b. But, thats with my incorrect ready point. I forget if it says 'init' with the thompson, or 'checking'.
A couple of things. Firstly I hadn't picked up on the fact that you're using a 8162B not an 8163B. That probably explains the difference between the boards.
As to this "Checking" and "Init" business: they are not mutally exclusive. You shouldn't just get one or the other, but FIRST one (Init) and THEN the other (Checking). If any of this relates to the ready point (and I'm not at all convinced that it does), I would have to guess that "Checking" appears when it has detected the presence of a disc.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
Currently as I have it hooked up, if I float pin 10, (hold it in my hand for a sec) then ground it, it [eVox] detects the dvd correctly as 'evox-cd' or something similar.
And what happens if you don't do this? Sorry, but I'm not sure how this information is supposed to help. Either my ready point is correct after all, or the ready point is not required for any of this stuff to work properly.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
The timing is different than what I expected, when using the Thompson. For instance, measuring the GDR-8162b, I get what you'd expect from the points:
GDR-8162b
_______closed__opening__open
LDin =___0_____3.6_____3.6
LDout =__0______0______3.6
GDR-8162b
_______closed__opening__open
LDin =___0_____3.6_____3.6
LDout =__0______0______3.6
I'll have to check it later, but I'm pretty sure that you've got LDIN and LDOUT the wrong way around here (unless the 62 and 63 are different in this area).
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
Thompson
_______closed opening open
pin3 = _3.4______0_____0
pin4 = __0______0_____3.4
I'm quoting those #s from memory. I have 'em written down at home, I hope I got 'em right.
_______closed opening open
pin3 = _3.4______0_____0
pin4 = __0______0_____3.4
I'm quoting those #s from memory. I have 'em written down at home, I hope I got 'em right.
So pin 3 is the same as your LDIN (which I think is actually LDOUT) inverted and pin4 is the same as your LDOUT. Are the Xbox signals active high or active low? I thought they were active low, but if that's true these signals seem a bit screwy to me.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
I did attempt to get this working using an inverter, and only using LDin for both trayin & trayout without sucess. I went back to your orig config as it gives me the best results. Now that I look back, I think it wasn't working using the inverter only because I don't have the correct ready signal.
What do you mean by "working"? What tests are you doing?
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 18 2005, 08:33 AM)
To clarify with the thomson,
When the dvd is actually ready, I measured 3.2vdc. I forget if its says 'checking or init'. Zero volts otherwise.
When the dvd is actually ready, I measured 3.2vdc. I forget if its says 'checking or init'. Zero volts otherwise.
OK. So this signal at least seems to be active high.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 10:15:00 PM
QUOTE(Maverick-DBZ- @ Mar 18 2005, 09:48 AM)
The drive that truBB is working with. I'm wondering if it's the same as this one?
http://www.lge.com/catalog/prodmodeldetail...alSuffix=000000
http://www.lge.com/catalog/prodmodeldetail...alSuffix=000000
according to his last post before this one of yours, he's using an 8162B, not the 8163B (which is what I am using).
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 10:18:00 PM
QUOTE(calisadork @ Mar 18 2005, 10:02 AM)
I also understand that if after making the wiring modifications to an 8163 drive but not replacing its firmware that it will work in an Xbox, but it just won't read original Xbox discs? Is this correct?
Yes, that's right. You can probably even use it without the wiring modifications, but you'd need to use the drive's built-in eject button instead of the Xbox's eject button.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 10:01:00 PM
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Mar 18 2005, 12:48 PM)
as for using an op-amp or NAND gate I'd have to side wit neither. While I can appreciate both methods an op-amp has no place in digital only circuitry
You are entitled to your opinions, of course, but perhaps you could keep them to yourself until you come up with a better solution. So far the op-amp is actually the cleanest and simplest solution. As has been stated repeatedly before, the problem we have is NOT purely a logic issue.
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Mar 18 2005, 12:48 PM)
and a NAND gate requires more wiring than needed. The same effect could be accomplished with an inverting buffer.
Indeed it could, and has -- I did do it this way at one point, in fact I originally suggested this way back in one of my earliest postings to this thread. So far the only device with spec's that meet the challenge requires pullup resistors on its outputs (open-collector ouputs), making it messier than the op-amp solution. It might be technically more "correct" or "pure", but it's more of a pain and a fiddle and the op-amp solution works just as well.
Post by: twistedsymphony on March 17, 2005, 10:16:00 PM
You asked me to keep my opinions to myself until I had a better suggestion.. well I gave you a better suggestion, just because I haven't had a chance to physically PROVE it doesn't mean it wont work or that it's not a good solution.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 10:31:00 PM
QUOTE(ChInEsE ChIcKeN @ Mar 18 2005, 02:06 PM)
does it read ALL DVD+R and DVD-R or only the good ones?????
Since only a very few people have one of these up and running, I would think that very little testing has been done. I can tell you that it reads TDK DVD-R discs OK, but that's all I've tried in mine so far. As for "only the good ones", past experience would suggest that it's just as likely to be cheap media that works.
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 10:39:00 PM
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Mar 18 2005, 03:22 PM)
What you suggested using before was a "hex inverter" which is differet than an inverting buffer.
Nice nit-picking. How about actually giving us something useable instead of trying to show off what a smart-ass you can be? While we're on the subject, if you're going to have that crap about spell-checking in your signature, you'd better spell-check your own postings, eh? ("differet")
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Mar 18 2005, 03:22 PM)
A proper inverting buffer will pull up the 3-point-whatever to a solid 5V and invert without the need for pull up resistors. It's a single chip with no other components needed....
Great. Where can we get one? What is the part number or whatever? Where are some data sheets?
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Mar 18 2005, 03:22 PM)
You asked me to keep my opinions to myself until I had a better suggestion.. well I gave you a better suggestion, just because I havne't had a chance to physically PROVE it doesn't mean it wont work or that it's not a good solution.
It doesn't mean it WILL work either, and you haven't give us a COMPLETE better suggestion, just a fairly vague idea with no specifics that anyone can actually use.
Post by: twistedsymphony on March 17, 2005, 10:33:00 PM
Post by: wenid on March 17, 2005, 10:55:00 PM
QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ Mar 18 2005, 03:39 PM)
pardon me for tying to help out
What help? All you've done so far is tell us we're doing it wrong and that we should use an inverting buffer. Not very helpful in my book. (still not spell-checking? -- "tying")
This post has been edited by wenid: Mar 18 2005, 06:57 AM
Post by: HSDEMONZ on March 17, 2005, 11:32:00 PM
Post by: truBB on March 18, 2005, 12:30:00 AM
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/02LG_label.JPG)
Flipping the board over, and looking from the side there is a date/and number, that says:
JD4 (GDR-8163B)
2004/02-02
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/close_up_model_num.JPG)
Using my magnifying glass, and looking closely at the backside of the board, you can see that the blue point is actually TP126, directly to the left of TP129. (super closeup)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/close_up_tp126.JPG).
Reference, back side of board:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/back_of_LG2.jpg)
Post by: {{DEMON}} on March 18, 2005, 03:53:00 AM
Flash the PC Drive with the LG Xbox DVD drive Firmware (just like 616t)?
Just solder the 4 wires to the 4 points on the mainboard of the DVD drive(just like samsung 616t)?
Solder the other ends to thre respective pins on the pinheader so you can plug the yellow cable into it?
Thats it im read to go?
It reads originals?
NO Motor reversing?
{{DEMON}}
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 18, 2005, 05:57:00 AM
QUOTE({{DEMON}} @ Mar 18 2005, 08:52 PM)
SO let me see if i have this right?
Flash the PC Drive with the LG Xbox DVD drive Firmware (just like 616t)?
Just solder the 4 wires to the 4 points on the mainboard of the DVD drive(just like samsung 616t)?
Solder the other ends to thre respective pins on the pinheader so you can plug the yellow cable into it?
Thats it im read to go?
It reads originals?
NO Motor reversing?
{{DEMON}}
Flash the PC Drive with the LG Xbox DVD drive Firmware (just like 616t)?
Just solder the 4 wires to the 4 points on the mainboard of the DVD drive(just like samsung 616t)?
Solder the other ends to thre respective pins on the pinheader so you can plug the yellow cable into it?
Thats it im read to go?
It reads originals?
NO Motor reversing?
{{DEMON}}
theres a bit of inverting going on i think. i think it'd be easier till one of them writes a tut on exactly what to do
Post by: Tiros on March 18, 2005, 10:23:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 18 2005, 03:03 AM)
That depends what you mean by "work right". According to truBB, the point I'm using for ready is no good, and yet this drive is working fine. It may not be perfect, but in practice who really cares?
We are well aware of this approach. It has been mentioned before and this is, in fact, how I arrived at the ready point I am now using. The problem is that the circuitry in the 8163B is not absolutely identical to that in the 8050L, and some of the differences appear to affect these signals.
This device has already been considered and rejected. It's minimum high level input voltage is too high.
The same good as any other Xbox DVD drive that won't read CDRs, ie. still very useful, especially considering how cheap DVD burners and media are these days. Who needs CDRs anyway?
We are well aware of this approach. It has been mentioned before and this is, in fact, how I arrived at the ready point I am now using. The problem is that the circuitry in the 8163B is not absolutely identical to that in the 8050L, and some of the differences appear to affect these signals.
This device has already been considered and rejected. It's minimum high level input voltage is too high.
The same good as any other Xbox DVD drive that won't read CDRs, ie. still very useful, especially considering how cheap DVD burners and media are these days. Who needs CDRs anyway?
If you can't find the "Ready" using the approach I suggest, you are not doing it right or don't understand digital circuits. The latter seems to be more likely since you persist in using an OpAmp for a digital circuit. Perhaps you need to review what I did originally for the 616T on xboxhacker.net to understand the consequences of not using the correct ready signal.
Perhaps you do not know how to read a datasheet.
74HC14 Datasheet
Specifically (Page 2 VT+)
I really don't like your attitude. From what you have posted so far you have minimal, at best, hardware engineering skills. Your mod is more of a kludge than it needs to be since you do not understand basic electronics. Others try to help, and you ridicule. Wow, you flashed the firmware from an XBOX original drive to a PC drive!! Nobody ever thought of that before :P
Maybe you think it's "good enough" and "nobody cares", but these are just excuses for poor engineering.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 18 2005, 06:23 PM
Post by: eclone on March 18, 2005, 11:41:00 AM
Prod. date: ? januari 2005
Serial: 2xxxxxx 50505
Version: v1.6b (Hynix ram)
Bought in: EU (Netherlands)
Post by: Tiros on March 18, 2005, 11:47:00 AM
74HCT14
Note on page 11, VT+ is only 2.1 volts!
They are only $0.30 at Mouser.
The HC14 (not HCT) can become borderline if the 5V supply voltage is high and the 3.3 is a little low. The HC14 would work if powered up through a diode, reducing it's VCC by .6volts. The HCT is a better choice since than the HC or the OpAmp, it will meet all worst case situations, and requires NO external parts.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 18 2005, 07:54 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 18, 2005, 11:52:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 18 2005, 10:22 AM)
If you can't find the "Ready" using the approach I suggest, you are not doing it right or don't understand digital circuits. The latter seems to be more likely since you persist in using an OpAmp for a digital circuit. Perhaps you need to review what I did originally for the 616T on xboxhacker.net to understand the consequences of not using the correct ready signal.
Perhaps you do not know how to read a datasheet.
74HC14 Datasheet
Specifically (Page 2 VT+)
I really don't like your attitude. From what you have posted so far you have minimal, at best, hardware engineering skills. Your mod is more of a kludge than it needs to be since you do not understand basic electronics. Others try to help, and you ridicule. Wow, you flashed the firmware from an XBOX original drive to a PC drive!! Nobody ever thought of that before :P
Maybe you think it's "good enough" and "nobody cares", but these are just excuses for poor engineering.
Perhaps you do not know how to read a datasheet.
74HC14 Datasheet
Specifically (Page 2 VT+)
I really don't like your attitude. From what you have posted so far you have minimal, at best, hardware engineering skills. Your mod is more of a kludge than it needs to be since you do not understand basic electronics. Others try to help, and you ridicule. Wow, you flashed the firmware from an XBOX original drive to a PC drive!! Nobody ever thought of that before :P
Maybe you think it's "good enough" and "nobody cares", but these are just excuses for poor engineering.
From your post it is clear that you don't understand electronics. The signal comming from the read, tray-in, tray-out, and eject points are not digital. There is no data being digitally transmitted through these signals. These signals only put out either positive voltage or 0 volts. Using an OP AMP on this circuit makes perfect sence. We have not explored every option, but the OP AMP is clearly one of the best ideas. If you can think of something that is smaller or simpler, name it.
By the way, Wenid didn't just stick the xbox lg 8050l into his computer and extract the firmware like you can simply do with the sd-616t. He had to hardwire a flash memory extractor onto the firmware chip and extract it. This cost him some $ and took a few hours. So, show some respect people, without wenid's help we wouldn't even be talking about this stuff. If you have a better idea for the signal circuitry, post it, try it, and we will find the best option soon. DON'T go calling people stupid or flaming them for posting their idea, simply tell them why you don't think it is the best idea (harder, more complex, cost, functionallity, ect.)
P.S. I have confirmed that the firmware flasher is working on all drives tested so far.
P.P.S. For those who have received the firmware flasher from me, please send me a pm/email with your results, as well as your drives ROM VERS and manufacturing date.
Post by: darksoul1970 on March 18, 2005, 12:02:00 PM
Please let me know if this is correct? and by the way great work everyone!
Post by: Tiros on March 18, 2005, 12:20:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 18 2005, 05:51 PM)
From your post it is clear that you don't understand electronics. The signal comming from the read, tray-in, tray-out, and eject points are not digital. There is no data being digitally transmitted through these signals. These signals only put out either positive voltage or 0 volts. Using an OP AMP on this circuit makes perfect sence. We have not explored every option, but the OP AMP is clearly one of the best ideas. If you can think of something that is smaller or simpler, name it.
How can you EVEN SAY that the signals are NOT DIGITAL!!!!
And you say "I" don't understand electronics!!!
You say yourself that the signals only put out positive voltage or 0 volts!
That is the DEFINITION of digital signaling (1 or 0). Do you have ANY education on this topic?
You say there is "NO DATA" being sent? What do you think those LOGIC LEVELS represent!! Answer: They are digital signals (bits) conveying the data of Tray Status and Ready to the control microprocessor. OK they are only 2 or 3 bits, but they sure ARE digital data. If they weren't how could the control processor read them without performing (unnecessary) AtoD conversion?
An OpAmp does not make "perfect sence".
It's just the only chip YOU know about.
BTW: I just did "Name It"! 74HCT14!!
At least one "developer" here has stated "keep it to yourself". Now YOU challenge MY technical ability. It seems to me you two guys just don't want anyone playing in your sandbox. There were initially plenty of people flashing the 605 firmware into the 615T, but only one solved the hardware problem and got it to work properly! ME :P
You can either keep an open mind or bury your head in the sand!
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 18 2005, 08:34 PM
Post by: pxpx on March 18, 2005, 12:52:00 PM
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 18, 2005, 01:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 18 2005, 12:19 PM)
How can you EVEN SAY that the signals are NOT DIGITAL!!!!
And you say "I" don't understand electronics!!!
You say yourself that the signals only put out positive voltage or 0 volts!
That is the DEFINITION of digital signaling (1 or 0). Do you have ANY education on this topic?
You say there is "NO DATA" being sent? What do you think those LOGIC LEVELS represent!! Answer: They are digital signals (bits) conveying the data of Tray Status and Ready to the control microprocessor. OK they are only 2 or 3 bits, but they sure ARE digital data. If they weren't how could the control processor read them without performing (unnecessary) AtoD conversion?
An OpAmp does not make "perfect sence".
It's just the only chip YOU know about.
BTW: I just did "Name It"! 74HCT14!!
At least one "developer" here has stated "keep it to yourself". Now YOU challenge MY technical ability. It seems to me you two guys just don't want anyone playing in your sandbox. There were initially plenty of people flashing the 605 firmware into the 615T, but only one solved the hardware problem and got it to work properly! ME :P
You can either keep an open mind or bury your head in the sand!
And you say "I" don't understand electronics!!!
You say yourself that the signals only put out positive voltage or 0 volts!
That is the DEFINITION of digital signaling (1 or 0). Do you have ANY education on this topic?
You say there is "NO DATA" being sent? What do you think those LOGIC LEVELS represent!! Answer: They are digital signals (bits) conveying the data of Tray Status and Ready to the control microprocessor. OK they are only 2 or 3 bits, but they sure ARE digital data. If they weren't how could the control processor read them without performing (unnecessary) AtoD conversion?
An OpAmp does not make "perfect sence".
It's just the only chip YOU know about.
BTW: I just did "Name It"! 74HCT14!!
At least one "developer" here has stated "keep it to yourself". Now YOU challenge MY technical ability. It seems to me you two guys just don't want anyone playing in your sandbox. There were initially plenty of people flashing the 605 firmware into the 615T, but only one solved the hardware problem and got it to work properly! ME :P
You can either keep an open mind or bury your head in the sand!
Ok, here is the deal, we only want your help if you are willing to stop being a total ass hole. I don't give a rats ass about what you have done. And finding a few signals on a 616t isn't that tough, especially considering 3 of the 4 signals were clearly labeled, and they were all perfect to begin with. If you want to help stop flamming everyone and post helpful info without any bs attached to it. Now, the question is whey is the OP AMP bad? If it puts out the proper voltage at the proper times it would seem to be working exactly as we want it to. If your solution will work better in any way, post why it would work better, how it would work better, and compair the price and availability at radio shack.
I have an open mind, but you haven't said much except flamming. Lets hear more about this part of yours, and less of the worthless bs. Lets work together, and do like mommy said "If you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all."
Here are most important things to keep in mind when making the circuit.
1. Small
2. Cheap
3. Simple
4. Works (doesn't matter how it works, just that it works correctly 100% of the time)
5. All parts available at Radio Shack or similar
Post by: Tiros on March 18, 2005, 02:29:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 18 2005, 07:31 PM)
Ok, here is the deal, we only want your help if you are willing to stop being a total ass hole. I don't give a rats ass about what you have done. And finding a few signals on a 616t isn't that tough, especially considering 3 of the 4 signals were clearly labeled, and they were all perfect to begin with. If you want to help stop flamming everyone and post helpful info without any bs attached to it. Now, the question is whey is the OP AMP bad? If it puts out the proper voltage at the proper times it would seem to be working exactly as we want it to. If your solution will work better in any way, post why it would work better, how it would work better, and compair the price and availability at radio shack.
I have an open mind, but you haven't said much except flamming. Lets hear more about this part of yours, and less of the worthless bs. Lets work together, and do like mommy said "If you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all."
Here are most important things to keep in mind when making the circuit.
1. Small
2. Cheap
3. Simple
4. Works (doesn't matter how it works, just that it works correctly 100% of the time)
5. All parts available at Radio Shack or similar
I have an open mind, but you haven't said much except flamming. Lets hear more about this part of yours, and less of the worthless bs. Lets work together, and do like mommy said "If you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all."
Here are most important things to keep in mind when making the circuit.
1. Small
2. Cheap
3. Simple
4. Works (doesn't matter how it works, just that it works correctly 100% of the time)
5. All parts available at Radio Shack or similar
You are the a** hole my friend!
I'm not flaming everyone, I'm just responding to self righteous "know it alls" who by thier very own posts, prove they don't know shi* about hardware design.
Maybe YOU and Wenid don't want my help, but I doubt you speak for everyone when you tell me what the "deal" is gonna be here. All you have done is flash the drive, the easy part, BFD! Everybody got that far on the 615. If you and your sidekick both quit right now, the hack WILL survive without you.
You attack me for not knowing what I am talking about, I explain where YOU are wrong, ('Not digital signals', LMAO), and you are SILENT on that topic. Instead you choose to flame me and trivialize MY PROVEN accomplishment. Thats all you CAN do because YOU WERE WRONG!!
If you can't figure out how to invert a signal with one chip and no external parts, I will explain it to you. If you think an OpAmp with external resistors is a cleaner, smaller, more dependable design use it. If you do, why not explain why or STFU? When you made this post, you already had my part number, and my post that no other parts are required. So why don't/didn't you tell ME why I am wrong again!
Now without sarcasm I ask you:
Do you need me to outline how to use the 74HCT14 or the 74HCT04?
Do you need assistance to find the "ready" point?
Post by: twistedsymphony on March 18, 2005, 02:41:00 PM
I posted, gave my props to all those who put in hard work (wenid included)
Then I though I might help out by starting a discussion on the inverting issue and I was completely dumped on by wenid as if I just killed his first born or something.(having read though this whole thread he's treated most everyone else the same way at one point or another, you included LenteSubigo)
I see Tiros TRYING to do the same thing and getting the same response.
You should listen to him and take what he's saying as a FRIENDLY SUGGESTION or CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM. Just because he's offering an alternative doesn't mean he's trying to insult you... he's trying to help.
He is completely correct in saying that the ready signal is in fact digital, sure it's an extremely low bandwidth digital signal, but digital none the less. There are many many reasons deeply rooted in electrical engineering on why using something like an op-amp in a digital circuit can be a bad idea. What is so difficult about humoring a suggestion from a knowledgeable source? We shouldn't have to provide you with an education every time we make a suggestion. If you're curious as to why we're making a suggestion... Just ask...
If you would like some reasons on why an op amp is not desirable in a digital circuit it mostly boils down to dependability. Unless you're working with very accurate values as in highly accurate resistors and a highly accurate input voltage (which we don't know if we are or not) the results from the op-amp can vary from setup to setup or even with temperature. This means that you might get 4.9V out of it and someone else might get 5.2 that extra voltage or lack of voltage over time could be damaging to the Xbox, and where no one really knows how susceptible the Xbox is to those sort of things it's probably best to avoid it. Also Op-amps (especially slow cheap ones) being analog in nature tend to swing while moving high to low as opposed to the clean step you get with digital logic, resulting in a floating voltage area during the switch. In most cases this will be quick enough that it wont really matter but we don't really know how the Xbox will deal with this sort of thing. If the response time is quick enough it could potentially cause it "bounce" between reading it high and low which can be extremely damaging. Finally I've found op-amps to be particularly unpredictable in terms of failures, wiring it incorrectly or having something attached to it fail and you could find it cooking it self or whatever it's attached to, I've had several op-amp projects go up in smoke when placing a wire or resistor in the wrong place.
Digital logic on the other hand is typically difficult to mess up and provides much cleaner signals. I can respect the creativity with using an op-amp in this fashion but I certainly wouldn't use it in my Xbox.
Post by: heraldoffailure on March 18, 2005, 03:38:00 PM
I think everyone is doing an amazing job, although there's some bickering, doesn't that just fire you all up to better your ideas? Anyway great work everyone, you're all true assets to the scene. Can't wait for the full tut.
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 18, 2005, 03:58:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 18 2005, 02:28 PM)
You are the a** hole my friend!
I'm not flaming everyone, I'm just responding to self righteous "know it alls" who by thier very own posts, prove they don't know shi* about hardware design.
Maybe YOU and Wenid don't want my help, but I doubt you speak for everyone when you tell me what the "deal" is gonna be here. All you have done is flash the drive, the easy part, BFD! Everybody got that far on the 615. If you and your sidekick both quit right now, the hack WILL survive without you.
You attack me for not knowing what I am talking about, I explain where YOU are wrong, ('Not digital signals', LMAO), and you are SILENT on that topic. Instead you choose to flame me and trivialize MY PROVEN accomplishment. Thats all you CAN do because YOU WERE WRONG!!
If you can't figure out how to invert a signal with one chip and no external parts, I will explain it to you. If you think an OpAmp with external resistors is a cleaner, smaller, more dependable design use it. If you do, why not explain why or STFU? When you made this post, you already had my part number, and my post that no other parts are required. So why don't/didn't you tell ME why I am wrong again!
Now without sarcasm I ask you:
Do you need me to outline how to use the 74HCT14 or the 74HCT04?
Do you need assistance to find the "ready" point?
I'm not flaming everyone, I'm just responding to self righteous "know it alls" who by thier very own posts, prove they don't know shi* about hardware design.
Maybe YOU and Wenid don't want my help, but I doubt you speak for everyone when you tell me what the "deal" is gonna be here. All you have done is flash the drive, the easy part, BFD! Everybody got that far on the 615. If you and your sidekick both quit right now, the hack WILL survive without you.
You attack me for not knowing what I am talking about, I explain where YOU are wrong, ('Not digital signals', LMAO), and you are SILENT on that topic. Instead you choose to flame me and trivialize MY PROVEN accomplishment. Thats all you CAN do because YOU WERE WRONG!!
If you can't figure out how to invert a signal with one chip and no external parts, I will explain it to you. If you think an OpAmp with external resistors is a cleaner, smaller, more dependable design use it. If you do, why not explain why or STFU? When you made this post, you already had my part number, and my post that no other parts are required. So why don't/didn't you tell ME why I am wrong again!
Now without sarcasm I ask you:
Do you need me to outline how to use the 74HCT14 or the 74HCT04?
Do you need assistance to find the "ready" point?
If you really want a responce on the digital issue I can make one. I don't want to switch this thread into a debate thread, I want to get on with the work in a reasonable way. I am not a dumb ass, and I am trying not to be an asshole. I am simply saying that wiring up a 616t is not difficult when compaired to making a circuit to allow the proper outputs on a 8163b. I want everyone to post their ideas, but when you post your idea, don't just give us a part number, give us a reason why your circuit may be better then the other circuits that we are trying(price, size, availability, simplicity, ect). How is it better? And don't attack other solutions. There is nothing wrong with using an OP AMP, if the outputs of then OP AMP are what we need, there is no reason to attack it.
Do you need me to outline how to use the 74HCT14 or the 74HCT04?
Do you need assistance to find the "ready" point?
For your first question, no, but why do you think it is a better choice than the OP AMP:
Does it require less wires?
Is it smaller or cheaper?
Can it perform both of the operations we need it to? (inverting and amplifying)
What makes it a better solution?
For your second question, if you think you can find a better ready point than wenid then, yes we would like you to help us find the better ready point.
So, post your circuit ideas, but include some more info than just a part number. Why is it better?
As to wenid, he isn't always the most politicly correct, and purposefully kind as he could be. I remember the responce you are refering to (where is wan't so kind to me.) But, he is doing alot of hard work, and spending his own money ($100's) to help us out. With this knowledge, I am willing to overlook a few minorly unkind comments, and give him the respect that is due. The fact is that this project would never have gotten this far without him extracting the firmware through the use of expensive hardware. There are 3 partys that have gotten this project to the point it is at now: Myself(LenteSubigo), Wenid, and a 3rd party who wants to remain anonymous.
Lets make sure we have the best signal points, and then the best circuit to achieve the correct signals.
I apologize to anyone who was offended by me in the past, including someone who pm'd me when I was in a bad mood, and tiros, who I called an asshole. I just want to put all the attacks aside and only post constructivly.
This post has been edited by LenteSubigo: Mar 19 2005, 12:11 AM
Post by: ruta69 on March 18, 2005, 04:28:00 PM
I have flashed my unit GDR-8163B whit the file GDR-8050L0012.EXE my unit is now 8050L. but is possible returns to
GDR-8163B? I have tried the file GDR-8163B0L23.exe but ever say "this program can't be used for the selected device." :uhh:
Thanks
bye
This post has been edited by ruta69: Mar 19 2005, 12:29 AM
Post by: Tiros on March 18, 2005, 04:58:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 18 2005, 09:57 PM)
If you really want a responce on the digital issue I can make one. And don't attack other solutions. There is nothing wrong with using an OP AMP, if the outputs of then OP AMP are what we need, there is no reason to attack it.
Thank You Twisted!
See Len, it's like this, your idea wasn't under "attack". That's where your gettin' jammed up. If you and wenid hadn't jumped to defend something you don't really understand, this whole nastiness would have been avoided.
wenid doesn't understand
lente doesn't understand
More to the point:
The 74HCT14 or 74HCT04 will require less wires.
It is a common part that costs less than $1.00
It will require no resistors.
It will consistantly output the correct voltage levels for the Xbox.
The OpAmp will have a lower VOH than the either part.
The OpAmp will have a higher VOL than either part.
Note:The original developer said his VOL was 1.2V but seemed to work. Not good!
Biasing the OpAmp at 1/2 VCC will result in a threshold voltage higher than either part.
Either part meets all worst case I/O thresholds better than the OpAmp.
There will be less support since all DIGITAL circuits behave the same.
Unused outputs need no connection.
For 100% safety unused inputs can be tied to VCC or GND thru a busswire running along the bottom of the chip. Just bend the unused input pins under the chip and solder to the bus wire.
Lente said:
"If you really want a responce on the digital issue I can make one. "
Please do, I have an open mind :)
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 19 2005, 01:01 AM
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on March 18, 2005, 05:07:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 18 2005, 09:51 AM)
P.S. I have confirmed that the firmware flasher is working on all drives tested so far.
P.P.S. For those who have received the firmware flasher from me, please send me a pm/email with your results, as well as your drives ROM VERS and manufacturing date.
What drives have you tested so far? :) I'll be getting 3 GDR-8163b drives in the mail soon from newegg.
I'll PM you my results, but I didn't get the flasher from you, but I'm guessing it's the same one I got of xbins. :beer:
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 18, 2005, 05:37:00 PM
QUOTE(Maverick-DBZ- @ Mar 18 2005, 05:06 PM)
What drives have you tested so far? :) I'll be getting 3 GDR-8163b drives in the mail soon from newegg.
I'll PM you my results, but I didn't get the flasher from you, but I'm guessing it's the same one I got of xbins. :beer:
I'll PM you my results, but I didn't get the flasher from you, but I'm guessing it's the same one I got of xbins. :beer:
Yes, the flasher is now on xbins. I had sent it in for submission, but I hadn't been responded to. They must have just added it today.
Drives tested on:
I don't have any info, I have asked 3 people who received the firmware, but they never responded with drive info. So, all I know is that 3 out of 3 have found it to work.
Before you flash your drive:
Remember, that we haven't created a flashing program to flash back to 8163b, and the original program to flash 8163b firmware doesn't work on a drive with the 8050l firmware. So, at this time, once your drive is flashed with 8050l firmware, their is no known software method to flash it again. So it will be stuck with 8050l firmware.
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 18, 2005, 05:45:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 6 2005, 09:13 PM)
well ok, Lets use a 74HCT04 then, its high at 2v and its low on 0,8 at vcc 4,5-5,5V is perfect, no way near 3,22V
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 6 2005, 05:08 PM)
The '05 has the advantage that ANY 74x05 will do. Not so the '04s -- it's gotta be an HCT. I don't know how easy they are to come by, but neither of the local electronics shops here have them. (I didn't notice when I looked at the datasheet before that there were separate pages for the HC and the HCT for some some of the spec's -- sorry about that).
I had this discussion on page 24 of this tread with Wenid, as you can see of the above quote he could't get the part as easely at that time, thats reason enough i think to think of something else(op-amps)
On page 23 there's even a scematic he made that almost fits the bill for the 74HCT04
(And yes i know,if i had more time the 74HCT04 would be up and running here)
We could probably get that lg spinning inside an xbox using nano technoligy or tubes out of an old radio but that's not the point, lets make 2 complete guides, tested and working, the builder himself/herself can pick one.
Everyone is doing a great job at pulling resources towards this, and if everything goes according to plan we'll al have lg drives working soon, thats the point of al of this.
Maby we'll even hack the firmware to get it to read cd-r's, i'm sure that a certain somebody can make this work.
Post by: Tiros on March 18, 2005, 07:13:00 PM
1) Power up xbox with xbox eject button, tray is now open.
Press the "off" button. The tray closes THEN the xbox powers off.
2) An original game can start normally, open or closed.
Please post results of this test
Post by: truBB on March 18, 2005, 11:36:00 PM
I started over, to verify all my connections, all my traces.
LG dvdrom:
LDin to GND = 0 ohms completely open; otherwise infinite
LDout to GND = 0 ohms when tray is closed & laser is in read position. Otherwise infinite.
Eject to GND = 0 ohms when pressing Eject button.
Powered up, turned on, nothing connected.
LDin
closed=0
opening=0
open=3.3vdc
LDout
closed=0
opening=3.3vdc
open=3.3vdc
HFMDRY no dvd-r in tray
closed=0
opening=0
open=0
HFMDRY Slayer's dvd-r in tray (ritek)
closed=5vdc
opening=0
open=0
NOTE: HFMDRY was jumpin a bit around 0 anywhere to 1.5vdc during init, even when there was no dvd-r in the tray.
Does this seem right to you?
Post by: valko on March 19, 2005, 01:24:00 AM
I'm a french xbox user, and i come from the french site www.gueux.be
I'm trying to do a test for the Hitachi-LG flashing firmware, but i'm asking me some questions.
Do i have only to put my f*cking Hitachi in my PC, and run the flashing program with the .bin firmware? If it's only that, thanks you a lot, i'll do this as soon i could.
But if no, could you say to me... 'cause I don't understand everything here and i don't have so much time u see !
So... greats thanks and see you soon.
PS : Do anyone flash his Hitachi here? Does it works? Does it read original games?
Thanks. ++
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 19, 2005, 12:07:00 PM
QUOTE(valko @ Mar 19 2005, 01:23 AM)
Hi everybody.
I'm a french xbox user, and i come from the french site www.gueux.be
I'm trying to do a test for the Hitachi-LG flashing firmware, but i'm asking me some questions.
Do i have only to put my f*cking Hitachi in my PC, and run the flashing program with the .bin firmware? If it's only that, thanks you a lot, i'll do this as soon i could.
But if no, could you say to me... 'cause I don't understand everything here and i don't have so much time u see !
So... greats thanks and see you soon.
PS : Do anyone flash his Hitachi here? Does it works? Does it read original games?
Thanks. ++
I'm a french xbox user, and i come from the french site www.gueux.be
I'm trying to do a test for the Hitachi-LG flashing firmware, but i'm asking me some questions.
Do i have only to put my f*cking Hitachi in my PC, and run the flashing program with the .bin firmware? If it's only that, thanks you a lot, i'll do this as soon i could.
But if no, could you say to me... 'cause I don't understand everything here and i don't have so much time u see !
So... greats thanks and see you soon.
PS : Do anyone flash his Hitachi here? Does it works? Does it read original games?
Thanks. ++
Just download the 8050l firmware flasher off of xbins. It has both the flashing utility, and the actual firmware built into one file. Install the 8163b into your pc, and then run the program in windows. Easy as that.
Post by: shearpleasure on March 19, 2005, 12:37:00 PM
Post by: valko on March 19, 2005, 03:05:00 PM
Thanks a lot english people ;)
Byeee
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on March 19, 2005, 04:37:00 PM
Post by: wenid on March 19, 2005, 07:27:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
If you can't find the "Ready" using the approach I suggest, you are not doing it right or don't understand digital circuits.
Since you people persist in telling me I don't know what I'm doing and make no useful contributions yourselves, I've decided to stop wasting my time posting to this forum. I may make some further replies today (because I do have a little spare time today), but that's it. I will continue to work on this project for my own reasons and may continue to read the forum, but since only two or three postings so far have actually moved my work forward, I may not bother.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
The latter seems to be more likely since you persist in using an OpAmp for a digital circuit.
The reasons for using an op-amp have been stated repeatedly. If one of you purists can come up with something REAL that is simpler, cleaner and WORKS, fine. So far no-one has.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
Perhaps you need to review what I did originally for the 616T on xboxhacker.net to understand the consequences of not using the correct ready signal.
I'm quite familiar with 616Ts, thanks. I've modded literally dozens of them. Last time I looked, much of that stuff on xboxhacker was inaccessible, or at least diffcult to access. Why not explain yourself here?
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
I can read fine. This datasheet is not the one I used as reference, so clearly the Fairchild part's specs differ from the Texas Instruments part's. If this is true, then people will have to make sure they buy the correct make of 74HC14, which may (or may not) be more trouble that it's worth.
(The datasheet I referred to can be found at http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/ZC4821.pdf)
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
I really don't like your attitude.
Well bad luck. Do you really think you've got any right to complain about MY attitude after the way YOU've carried on here?
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
From what you have posted so far you have minimal, at best, hardware engineering skills.
So what? I never claimed to be the world's leading expert (in fact just the opposite), but at least I'm actually doing something, which is more than can be said for just about anyone else. I was following this thread for a couple of months, watching and waiting to see if any progress would be made with the firmware. Nothing happened until I was finally in a position to spend some time and money on it myself and then I had a working drive up and running within a week or two.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
Your mod is more of a kludge than it needs to be since you do not understand basic electronics.
So offer a REAL alternative. My mod consists of one chip and two resistors. It's simple enough for people even more ignorant than me to do. That's all I am aiming at. If you've got something better fine. I don't see it here anywhere yet.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
Others try to help, and you ridicule.
What I get offended at is not their help but their ridiculing MY efforts, just like you're doing here, with this stuck-up, holier-than-thou attitude.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
Wow, you flashed the firmware from an XBOX original drive to a PC drive!! Nobody ever thought of that before :P
Idiot. What I did was connect 31 tiny little wires to 31 tiny little spots on the 8050L circuit board, many of which are right on top of each other, hook it up to the IDE Flasher I bought, figure out how to get it talking to my PC, read the firmware off the flash ROM, then repeat the 31 wire process again on the 8163B to write the firmware to that drive. As I stated before, this required a substantial investment of time and money on my part. I then freely donated the results of my work to this community. In return I get crap like this from people like you who just want to make themselves look good by coming in and telling me I'm doing it all wrong, but without offering a useable alternative.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 19 2005, 03:22 AM)
Maybe you think it's "good enough" and "nobody cares", but these are just excuses for poor engineering.
I'm not trying to be a great engineer. I don't have the time. That's one reason for publicising what I have done -- so people who do have the time and knowledge can come up with something better if they feel that way inclined. I don't see how that requires them to put down my efforts, however.
Post by: demonleon on March 20, 2005, 04:54:00 AM
QUOTE(ruta69 @ Mar 18 2005, 11:27 PM)
Hi
I have flashed my unit GDR-8163B whit the file GDR-8050L0012.EXE my unit is now 8050L. but is possible returns to
GDR-8163B? I have tried the file GDR-8163B0L23.exe but ever say "this program can't be used for the selected device." :uhh:
Thanks
bye
I have flashed my unit GDR-8163B whit the file GDR-8050L0012.EXE my unit is now 8050L. but is possible returns to
GDR-8163B? I have tried the file GDR-8163B0L23.exe but ever say "this program can't be used for the selected device." :uhh:
Thanks
bye
The file, GDR-8163B0L23.exe contains firmware for Retail Version ...
it will not work on OEM ...
sooner or later, someone will release a firmware for the oem version ...
Post by: Tiros on March 20, 2005, 11:01:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 20 2005, 01:26 AM)
I'm not trying to be a great engineer. I don't have the time. That's one reason for publicising what I have done -- so people who do have the time and knowledge can come up with something better if they feel that way inclined. I don't see how that requires them to put down my efforts, however.
That's exactly what I was trying to do!
My original post #382 did not put anyone down. It was a sincere, nonsarcastic, suggestion.
You yourself requested help on the OpAamp circuit, explaining that you didn't really understand it. You stated that VOL was 1.2 but still "Seemed to work"
I tried to explain the benifits of HCT in post #429. Do you need a diagram?
HCT will not be manufacturer dependent.
It was only after Lente and yourself PERCEIVED this as an attack, that things got ugly. There is no shame in using another part, It does not detract from the great work you have done so far. I was actually suprised to see the outlashing over a mere suggestion.
Now this is a REAL attack:
Your design is marginal and will not work consistantly.
There is an easy answer. You have been presented with details on the significant electrical performance benefit of HCT, the problems with the OpAmp, and you choose to ignore/argue. Do it right or don't do it.
You can quit now or finish the project. Do whatever YOU want.
Like I said before, if you quit now the hack WILL survive.
Thanks for your contributions so far.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 20 2005, 07:06 PM
Post by: taximan89 on March 20, 2005, 12:23:00 PM
Post by: Tiros on March 20, 2005, 12:29:00 PM
The existing original firmware must make use of the same tray in/out signals for normal PC drive operation. The control microprocessor reads these lines during normal operation. They are connected directly to I/O line on control CPU. So the question is, after you flash XFW, how can the xbox firmware understand the inverted position of these switches? I.E. after you flash with the XBOX firmware, the drive becomes an XBOX drive, but the CPU will still see the wrong polarity of the tray signal since it is running on PC drive. If the signal is truly inverted between the two drives, the FW should not work at all.
Since the drive seems to function correctly with either FW, the internal signals that the control micro sees must have the same polarity between the two drives. This leads me to believe that there may well exist signals internal to the drive (@the control mpu, not at the switch contacts) that will be of the same, correct polarity of the original drive. Tapping into these signals directly, would eliminate the need for ANY external logic.
How to find them and "ready"?
Trace the original yellow xbox drive wire signals directly to the CPU I/O pin where they are connected. Maybe they are directly connected to switch, but keep following circuit to the control CPU. The polarity has to be right at that point or control CPU will be confused. Connect to same pin on CPU after flashing. The "ready" signal is an OUTPUT from the control CPU, so once the drive is flashed, that CPU pin WILL become a "ready" signal, even it it was not before.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 20 2005, 08:35 PM
Post by: truBB on March 20, 2005, 08:57:00 PM
Thanks to arron1017, I used some images to help me since I don't have a LG 1050L dvdrom.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/trace_ready_8050L2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/trace_ready_8050L1.jpg)
Then manupulating the images with a transparent one on top, it looks like ready is pin 14? 15? 16? counting (from one) upwards from the bottom right corner. Can ne1 confirm this?
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/trace_ready_8050L3b.jpg)
This post has been edited by truBB: Mar 21 2005, 05:07 AM
Post by: xboxmedia on March 21, 2005, 07:06:00 PM
Post by: Shortacid on March 21, 2005, 10:45:00 PM
And also did you use the ready coming out of the CPU? I haven't had a chance to get elbow deep, but got the drive, (some) chips, and now just time.
Wenid sorry to see you go man, you were doing an awesome job.
Post by: taximan89 on March 22, 2005, 09:34:00 PM
http://www.xbox-linux.org/Talk:Xbox_Linux_...D_Burning_HOWTO
According to this site they are 16x. Is this true?
Post by: pxpx on March 23, 2005, 12:34:00 PM
Post by: AntMan3DFX on March 23, 2005, 04:36:00 PM
1. I bought a LG GDR-8163B Drive from NewEgg.com $25 total.
2. Installed the drive in my PC and flashed it with the EXE (bios included).
3. Plugged it into my XBOX (used a Y molex for temporary)
4. It works all good. I just press the old drive EJECT at the same time
I press the NEW drive EJECT to swap discs..
I needed this cuz my original Xbox drive got Dirty Disc too much, I was
sick of it.
NOTE : If it isnt wired in properly (like stated above) the only way to
get it to work properly is to shut off the xbox with the disc in it and turn
it back on to boot. Otherwise U can press eject on both drives if U still
have your old one in an plugged up to the yellow wires like usual.
The only reason I did this was to temporarily check until I have time to
solder in the yellow wires.
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 24, 2005, 01:42:00 AM
WARNING, ONCE THE DRIVE IS FLASHED WITH 8050L FIRMWARE IT MAY BE DIFFICULT TO REFLASH IT WITH 8163B FIRMWARE!
I have received a few pm's asking if/how you can reflash 8163b firmware back onto the drive.
Here is the answer.
you can find the firmware at:
http://tdb.rpc1.org/
But, the flasher has not worked for anyone that I know of.
The only sure way I know to reflash the drive back to 8163b is through the use of an external piece of hardware that connects to the firmware chip. This external hardware costs alot more than another 8163b drive. So, don't flash your drive to a 8050l, unless you are either sure you want an 8050l or, don't care if your 8163b becomes toast.
Post by: Skaaz on March 24, 2005, 10:18:00 AM
Is this speed limited in the firmware?
Post by: JEB-101 on March 24, 2005, 02:13:00 PM
QUOTE(Skaaz @ Mar 24 2005, 01:17 PM)
I recieved one today, flashed it with the firmware and tested the drive on my 1.0/160gb/thomson xbox. Works fine, reads originals but when I copy a file to my hd its the same speed my thomson drive reads.
Is this speed limited in the firmware?
Is this speed limited in the firmware?
yes. the firmware determines evrything really.
This post has been edited by JEB-101: Mar 24 2005, 10:14 PM
Post by: Stilly82 on March 24, 2005, 02:28:00 PM
wich component i must use for this operation??
Which wire i must solder into the 8163?
THANKS A LOT!!!!
Post by: menelik on March 24, 2005, 05:39:00 PM
i'm trying to find the most important spots on the gdr-8163b for a mod without any addons but its somehow difficult as i dont have the original lg xbox drive. i've read all pages but didnt find anyone who just followed the ready signal to the panasonic chip or to any other equivalent spot which can be used on the 8163b.
so i please everyone with a multimeter and a orig. xbox lg, spot the ready point.
from my point of view this is the first step which has to be done before talking about any ics, opamps etc.
Post by: Stilly82 on March 24, 2005, 05:46:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 25 2005, 12:38 AM)
hey folks,
i'm trying to find the most important spots on the gdr-8163b for a mod without any addons but its somehow difficult as i dont have the original lg xbox drive. i've read all pages but didnt find anyone who just followed the ready signal to the panasonic chip or to any other equivalent spot which can be used on the 8163b.
so i please everyone with a multimeter and a orig. xbox lg, spot the ready point.
from my point of view this is the first step which has to be done before talking about any ics, opamps etc.
i'm trying to find the most important spots on the gdr-8163b for a mod without any addons but its somehow difficult as i dont have the original lg xbox drive. i've read all pages but didnt find anyone who just followed the ready signal to the panasonic chip or to any other equivalent spot which can be used on the 8163b.
so i please everyone with a multimeter and a orig. xbox lg, spot the ready point.
from my point of view this is the first step which has to be done before talking about any ics, opamps etc.
PLEASE, DO THIS FOR THE XBOX-SCENE COMMUNITY, IS IMPORTANT, AN EXCELLENT DVD DRIVE FOR XBOX AT ONLY 25 IS NOT BAD!!!! :D
NOW I'M GOING TO ORDER AN LG 8163 BLACK BULK :beer:
Post by: menelik on March 24, 2005, 06:11:00 PM
the main mod is allready done as you can flash the drive. you will be able to read originals with it but its 'dirty' because you cant get discs recognised which arent inserted at boot for example. i really dont understand why nobody has done a deeper analysis with the orignal drive.
Post by: Stilly82 on March 24, 2005, 06:20:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 25 2005, 01:10 AM)
@stilly82
the main mod is allready done as you can flash the drive. you will be able to read originals with it but its 'dirty' because you cant get discs recognised which arent inserted at boot for example. i really dont understand why nobody has done a deeper analysis with the orignal drive.
the main mod is allready done as you can flash the drive. you will be able to read originals with it but its 'dirty' because you cant get discs recognised which arent inserted at boot for example. i really dont understand why nobody has done a deeper analysis with the orignal drive.
Exactly,i know!why anybody don't analize that drive for the community??? I don't understand nothig of electronic!!! :boring:
i also know that there is a firmware flasher for that drive (8050L)!!!!
THANKS MENELIK!!!
Post by: Mastershredder on March 24, 2005, 06:35:00 PM
http://www.newegg.co...-136-050&depa=0
I'm not sure if I should get one now or hold off. I'm not too fond of the wire mess with that op amp hanging out..
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 25, 2005, 02:59:00 AM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 25 2005, 12:38 AM)
i'm trying to find the most important spots on the gdr-8163b for a mod without any addons but its somehow difficult as i dont have the original lg xbox drive. i've read all pages but didnt find anyone who just followed the ready signal to the panasonic chip or to any other equivalent spot which can be used on the 8163b.
so i please everyone with a multimeter and a orig. xbox lg, spot the ready point.
from my point of view this is the first step which has to be done before talking about any ics, opamps etc.
so i please everyone with a multimeter and a orig. xbox lg, spot the ready point.
from my point of view this is the first step which has to be done before talking about any ics, opamps etc.
Those points probably don't exist because the electronics on the pcb are different, otherwise they would be found already, there's more electronics on that pcb than that Panasonic chip.
Most of the people that are actively designing a mod have something working, only the Ready signal doesn't work.
QUOTE(Stilly82)
Exactly,i know!why anybody don't analize that drive for the community??? I don't understand nothig of electronic!!!
i also know that there is a firmware flasher for that drive (8050L)!!!!
THANKS MENELIK!!!
i also know that there is a firmware flasher for that drive (8050L)!!!!
THANKS MENELIK!!!
Please people read all the post in this thread before making a post yourself, the people in this forum made that flasher and we are analyzing the LG drive, it just isn't that simple, and Micysoft didn't intend it to be easy.
Try to keep this thread clean by giving useful info so any newcomers can easely read whats going on.
And if anyone has some news they will post it because we all wan't this drive to work.
Wenid man, your work here will be missed, hope you will recall your decision at some later time.
Post by: menelik on March 25, 2005, 05:56:00 AM
as i have no origjnal drive i cant give any proof but first of all:
the main chipset is the same, if it wouldnt the firmware wont work. and yes you are right when you say that the layout is different. all i can say is that the ready signal comes out of the panasonic chip. the problem is that the panasonic might miss other inputs to give the ready output. anyway, the first step is to take find the ready output on the panasonic. the ready signal from the drive to the mobo is only bridged with a resistor so that there might be a good chance to retrace the signal.
and yeah, a datasheet of that chip would make things easier, but i couldnt find it.
Post by: menelik on March 25, 2005, 06:31:00 AM
we should try that before we start using external chips.
Post by: Tiros on March 25, 2005, 10:09:00 AM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 25 2005, 08:58 AM)
Those points probably don't exist because the electronics on the pcb are different, otherwise they would be found already, there's more electronics on that pcb than that Panasonic chip.
Most of the people that are actively designing a mod have something working, only the Ready signal doesn't work.
Try to keep this thread clean by giving useful info so any newcomers can easely read whats going on.
Wenid man, your work here will be missed, hope you will recall your decision at some later time.
Most of the people that are actively designing a mod have something working, only the Ready signal doesn't work.
Try to keep this thread clean by giving useful info so any newcomers can easely read whats going on.
Wenid man, your work here will be missed, hope you will recall your decision at some later time.
Max,
It is still not right.
If you are happy with it like it is, move along like your pal wenid.
Menliks info is usefull, if it helps figure out the CORRECT hack for this unit.
Menilik,
I do not have the original drive either :(
It certainly makes sense to see if the mod can be done without a chip.
You are 100% correct in your analysis. The controller chip is the same. Ready may be a signal conflict after flashing, but it has to be there. The only way to tell is trace with multimeter. That is the first step.
I think the reason it is not fully investigated is that not enough people have the original drive to work with. Those that do seem to be unwilling/unable to pursue this method.
Has anyone tried the equiv. point by TrueBB in post #445?
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 25 2005, 06:16 PM
Post by: menelik on March 25, 2005, 10:57:00 AM
we should give that idea a try, its just a try which has to be made. im also happy to see that we all have the same aim. the past flaming topics werent really productive for this.
im afraid that it isnt as easy as it sounds within the ready signal coming from the panasonic chip. the problem is that we dont have a datasheet of it which makes things really difficult. no one knows if the ready signal comes from xy inputs to the panasonic and result into one output signal. its not sure that the circuit of the whole ready circuit is done on the pc drive but the most important is that if the chipset is the same it has to be possible. the worst case might be we gotta make too many retracing. but once again, its the first step which has to be made. im really sorry that i dont own a lg, i'd enjoy on trying to find the points.
but i want lazy too:
i've checked the whole right side of the panasonic and about 50 other points on the mobo to find the ready signal but i couldnt find it. i also tried the point in #445 but they all ended in a static init or a annoying 'unknown'.
im afraid that we have to go on by trial and error. we may need to make a complete difference-sheet on both drives.
at last i have a question left.
the most important points are trayin, trayout and ready. the drive works without any soldering and just the firmware flash but only at boot time i believe. media inserted after the boot procedure arent checked because the mobo doesnt know to check. why? because it needs a signal to trayout and trayin and at the end a signal from ready. but: isnt the ready signal enough for this? they only difference should be that the box doesnt know that the drive is closed or not. you might be right when you say that the box needs to know that the tray is closed to start next procedures but cant we just set trayout on high - so let the box think the tray is always cloesed? when a media is inserted the ready signal should push the box to check what type of media.
what i did so far may be really flawed, it was the only solution without external chips so far:
when the tray is out trayin got a high and when its inside trayout got a high (trayin low). what i did was to just use the hfm signal for trayout. i know its dirty but isnt it enough when the box knows that the tray is in when it has a media inserted? is the trayout on high really a must without a media? moreover i took ldout (or ldin, they seem to be the same signal, dunno) for trayin which means that when the tray is out the box should know that because ldout gives a high to trayin.
since i cant find the damn ready signal i cant proof if that will work or not.
a note to tiros:
i dont care that the drive closes itself if opened and i push the power off button, its dirty i know, i will take a look on such things when the major mod is done
and please dont start flaming on me, the whole topic may be bogus, i even dont have the original drive here so it would be absolutely stupid to say that it works
Post by: Tiros on March 25, 2005, 11:07:00 AM
Jumper #4 to #5
Ground #7,#9,#11,#13
+5Volts #14.
The signal needing inversion will enter(from drive) on #1 and exit(to xbox) on #2.
The signal only needing buffering will enter on #3, and exit on #6
If you would like to experiment with "ready" you should only need to buffer and not invert. So:
Remove ground from #9, #11
Connect #8 to #11
Now ready will enter(from drive) on #9, and exits on #12 (to xbox)
I hope this is clear enough.
Maybe someone else can clean it up.
Post by: Tiros on March 25, 2005, 11:19:00 AM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 25 2005, 05:03 PM)
@tiros
we should give that idea a try, its just a try which has to be made. im also happy to see that we all have the same aim. the past flaming topics werent really productive for this.
but the most important is that if the chipset is the same it has to be possible. the worst case might be we gotta make too many retracing. but once again, its the first step which has to be made. im really sorry that i dont own a lg, i'd enjoy on trying to find the points.
but i want lazy too:
we should give that idea a try, its just a try which has to be made. im also happy to see that we all have the same aim. the past flaming topics werent really productive for this.
but the most important is that if the chipset is the same it has to be possible. the worst case might be we gotta make too many retracing. but once again, its the first step which has to be made. im really sorry that i dont own a lg, i'd enjoy on trying to find the points.
but i want lazy too:
For perfect operation you need all three signals.
Did you buffer the post #445 point?
What voltage measurements do you see when loading a disc?
A datasheet really wont help. It doesn't matter since we only need equivalent point. The 616 ready signal is a GPIO pin of the control MPU. It is not created by multiple signals.
Post by: snypor on March 25, 2005, 12:08:00 PM
Yes, I have read all 30 some pages of this topic for the last several weeks.
I have not noticed anywhere where anyone has talked about changing the bios on the original H-LG drive in the xbox so that it reads CD-Rs.. Isn't that the real problem? I mean, it works otherwise, doesn't it? I understand that people would like to replace their current broken say Sammy drive or something with a store-bought LG, but what about us folks who have an LG that works fine and just want it to read CD-Rs? Is there a different topic for that? The people who have 1.6b xboxes so far have all reported (as far as i have seen) that they all have the LG drive. Wouldn't they like a bios you just flash and viola, a drive that reads anything?
I support your effort to find a solution to the store bought drive. If/when my xbox LG drive dies, i would like to go to the store and grab a PC LG drive and flash it / wire up a chip and have 100% working back again. For right now, though, it would be really nice to have my working xbox LG drive read CD-Rs.. Anyone for a Firmware hack? I know nothing of hacking firmwares, and it may be hard wired (though i doubt it) that it can't read CD-Rs, but i just haven't seen any responses along this line, so i decided to ask.
By the way, Awesome work so far. When you find the signals, an inverting buffer is the way to go. I'm an electrical engineer, so I do know what I'm talking about here, just not when it comes to hacking firmware.
Post by: otherguy on March 25, 2005, 12:38:00 PM
The purpose of this entire thread is not to enhance the performance of the HL-DATA xbox dvd drives - it is to provide a cheap - readily available pc drive that can be easily modified to work within an xbox.
Post by: snypor on March 25, 2005, 12:41:00 PM
QUOTE(otherguy @ Mar 25 2005, 12:37 PM)
i'm no expert - but i'm pretty sure this isn't being done because the firmware that resides on these drives are encrypted. And breaking that encryption is most likely not going to happen.
The purpose of this entire thread is not to enhance the performance of the HL-DATA xbox dvd drives - it is to provide a cheap - readily available pc drive that can be easily modified to work within an xbox.
The purpose of this entire thread is not to enhance the performance of the HL-DATA xbox dvd drives - it is to provide a cheap - readily available pc drive that can be easily modified to work within an xbox.
OK. Thanks for the response. I agree that a cheap drive that can be put in the xbox would be cool too.. I just dont need one yet.
Post by: menelik on March 25, 2005, 01:36:00 PM
since the #445 spot isnt clear enough i can give no proof on that. someone has to followe the trace from the connector to the panasonic chip for this - and please guys, use a multimeter for that, scopes arent useful here. at this moment im waiting that someone tell me the spot....
Post by: menelik on March 25, 2005, 03:41:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 25 2005, 06:06 PM)
Even though I think that a chip will not be necessary in the end, the following tells you how to wire up the 74HCT04 instead of the OpAmp.
Jumper #4 to #5
Ground #7,#9,#11,#13
+5Volts #14.
The signal needing inversion will enter(from drive) on #1 and exit(to xbox) on #2.
The signal only needing buffering will enter on #3, and exit on #6
If you would like to experiment with "ready" you should only need to buffer and not invert. So:
Remove ground from #9, #11
Connect #8 to #11
Now ready will enter(from drive) on #9, and exits on #12 (to xbox)
I hope this is clear enough.
Maybe someone else can clean it up.
Jumper #4 to #5
Ground #7,#9,#11,#13
+5Volts #14.
The signal needing inversion will enter(from drive) on #1 and exit(to xbox) on #2.
The signal only needing buffering will enter on #3, and exit on #6
If you would like to experiment with "ready" you should only need to buffer and not invert. So:
Remove ground from #9, #11
Connect #8 to #11
Now ready will enter(from drive) on #9, and exits on #12 (to xbox)
I hope this is clear enough.
Maybe someone else can clean it up.
@tiros
I took a look on the datasheet:
74hct04.pdf
and dont understand your circuit. i'd do the following:
LDOUT to #1 and #2 to TRAYOUT
Bridge #4 and #5
LDIN to to #3 and #6 to LDOUT (buffered to clean the signal)
when we finally found the damn ready signal:
Bridge #9 and #10
Ready from drive to #8 and #11 to Ready on the mobo (buffered to clean the signal)
and to make it clean ground #13
finally ground #7 and give #14 +5 VCC
its easy and simple, maybe i'll get the chips tomorrow.
anyway, havent found ready yet......
This post has been edited by menelik: Mar 25 2005, 11:53 PM
Post by: menelik on March 25, 2005, 04:16:00 PM
Post by: truBB on March 25, 2005, 04:35:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 25 2005, 02:15 PM)
maybe we should use a 74hc04 instead. i think its better because vcc can be set to 3.3 V which would give an output of +3 V. im saying this because i've never measured more than 3,3 V on originals drives within trayout etc.
If you put these signals thru the 74HCT, you will measure around 3.4v (trayin/trayout), even though you're putting 5v into the inverter.
Post by: Tiros on March 25, 2005, 04:40:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 25 2005, 10:15 PM)
maybe we should use a 74hc04 instead. i think its better because vcc can be set to 3.3 V which would give an output of +3 V. im saying this because i've never measured more than 3,3 V on originals drives within trayout etc.
WRT my previous post, the READY buffered signal would have appeared on pin 10, not pin 12. This was a typo that the board will not let me edit. Your circuit sounds fine to me.
WRT 3.3
Wenid said that 3.3 was not acceptable. He seemed to think that the 3.3 was not high enough since he couldn't get it working. Maybe i misinterpereted. I really don't know why he could not make LDOUT connection directly since no inversion is needed.
I suggested the HCT because of the low VIH, where 3.3 would always work, at HCT VCC of 5volts, effectively amplifying the signal. I have long suspected that the "boost" is unnecessary. Perhaps he was reallly having some other problem.
At that time my only interest was something more reliable than the OpAmp approach, since wenid thinks that 5volt output was a requirement. Maybe it is not. I have not verified. Is the target logic on the main board @5volts? I don't think so. If its 3.3, don't even go through the chip for that signal. I am really thinking that likely the chip can be eliminated completely.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 26 2005, 12:42 AM
Post by: menelik on March 25, 2005, 04:57:00 PM
moreover i can defiently proof that a trayin and trayout of 2,4 V works fine. I have some experience with other drives like tsh-352 from samsung and the original drives. i think that +5 is too much as i havent seen a orignal drive with +5 on trayin. we're lucky that the ic on the mobo has a big tollerance with that.
this also means that you dont need to buffer the signals, I just buffer because its possible and more secure, it may be totally needless.
if we find the ready signal i'm sure that i can write a nice tutorial and finish this mod.
maybe i can give you a proof tomorrow, dunno if my radio shack got the devices on store. im pretty sure that it will work.
This post has been edited by menelik: Mar 26 2005, 01:03 AM
Post by: Tiros on March 25, 2005, 07:16:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 25 2005, 10:56 PM)
moreover i can defiently proof that a trayin and trayout of 2,4 V works fine. I have some experience with other drives like tsh-352 from samsung and the original drives. i think that +5 is too much as i havent seen a orignal drive with +5 on trayin. we're lucky that the ic on the mobo has a big tollerance with that.
this also means that you dont need to buffer the signals, I just buffer because its possible and more secure, it may be totally needless.
if we find the ready signal i'm sure that i can write a nice tutorial and finish this mod.
maybe i can give you a proof tomorrow, dunno if my radio shack got the devices on store. im pretty sure that it will work.
this also means that you dont need to buffer the signals, I just buffer because its possible and more secure, it may be totally needless.
if we find the ready signal i'm sure that i can write a nice tutorial and finish this mod.
maybe i can give you a proof tomorrow, dunno if my radio shack got the devices on store. im pretty sure that it will work.
Good work menelik.
I can tell you clearly understand the problem and know how to proceed.
I'm glad you agree that the 5 volt swing is not needed. That was really my first clue that wenid might be off in the wrong direction with regard to yellow wire interface. If that mainboard logic is 3.3 volt, sending in 5 volts from an OpAmp OR an HCT could produce a long term reliability problem.
Why don't you try tracing the tray switches on your PC drive to see where they go.
Since one signal is already the correct polarity, if you can find the inverted trayout point we will be one step closer to no chip hack. I don't have drive yet.
IIRC The ready signal starts low, when the tray is first closed, it momentarily goes hi, then back low until disk spins up (if there is one) . If a disk was found the signal goes back hi, if not it just stays low. You kind of need a scope to see it. I don't think you will find it with DVM
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 26 2005, 03:22 AM
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 26, 2005, 01:36:00 AM
Has anyone checked to see if the signals we are looking for are actually being put out on an ide pin? The link above gives the pinout for an ide connector. The same info the xbox receives by the yellow cable must be received by a pc through the ide connector. The only question is, does the ide output it in the same format we are looking for. Can someone check this, so we can officially rule it out.
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 26, 2005, 02:24:00 AM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 26 2005, 08:35 AM)
http://www.bbdsoft.com/ide.html
Has anyone checked to see if the signals we are looking for are actually being put out on an ide pin? The link above gives the pinout for an ide connector. The same info the xbox receives by the yellow cable must be received by a pc through the ide connector. The only question is, does the ide output it in the same format we are looking for. Can someone check this, so we can officially rule it out.
Has anyone checked to see if the signals we are looking for are actually being put out on an ide pin? The link above gives the pinout for an ide connector. The same info the xbox receives by the yellow cable must be received by a pc through the ide connector. The only question is, does the ide output it in the same format we are looking for. Can someone check this, so we can officially rule it out.
Nope, the only usefull info you can get from it is an activity led, the rest is all sent trough a databus signal
(not a bad idea)
Is there someone in HOLLAND near MEPPEL that is willing to give me a look at their LG drive?, maby we can trade something for the favor.
It will probably take about an hour to analize the pcb and get some much needed answers.
Post by: ted007 on March 26, 2005, 03:21:00 AM
but i cant find anyware the ...EXE... to change the firmware...
is it possible to pm me a link? thanks
Post by: menelik on March 26, 2005, 08:48:00 AM
hex inverter works....im not sure if its stable but it seems to work. the final proof is only possible when i find the ready signal.
i've got a clue that the ready signal can be found there:
(IMG:http://www.deadinmotion.com/human/test.jpg)
if thats right the signal is also there (left is the original pcb):
(IMG:http://www.deadinmotion.com/human/test3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.deadinmotion.com/human/test2.jpg)
please notice the different circuit. i couldnt find a datasheet of this chip so i cant say whats the matter with it. anyway, i dont get a hi there when media is inserted. i checked a new 8163b without the firmware on it and got no hi too. im not sure if my flashed drive is broken or not, someone has to check this for me.
a good note is that i god the right media check , a evox cd will display as evox-cd, video as video etc., but dont ask me why...when i hold the ready signal in my hand and touch it sometimes it checks and everything is fine..it isnt connected to the pcb im no magician too. i thaught that it may need to be set to ground but this didnt help. i think that im on the right way..
i also used the 74hc04 because my radioshack didnt had the 74hct04. anyway, i think that this is even the better option because we dont need to set vcc to 4.5 - 5.5. i used 3.3 volt and it worked fine for ldin which gets inverted and goes to pin3 on the connector.
This post has been edited by menelik: Mar 26 2005, 04:50 PM
Post by: menelik on March 26, 2005, 09:16:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 25 2005, 11:34 PM)
If you put these signals thru the 74HCT, you will measure around 3.4v (trayin/trayout), even though you're putting 5v into the inverter.
btw, when you use 5 volt for vcc you wont get 3,3 out of any exit. take a closer look on the datasheet. maybe i havent understand you right dunno..after i know that we dont need 5 volts the hct model isnt the better option anymore. please correct me if im wrong ;)
Post by: menelik on March 26, 2005, 10:07:00 AM
i've given up to find the ready point without an original drive. its just nonsense , for a right research i need an original drive. if anyone can tell me that point i will finish my tutorial.
Post by: roman on March 26, 2005, 11:13:00 AM
Post by: menelik on March 26, 2005, 11:29:00 AM
Post by: truBB on March 26, 2005, 11:33:00 AM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 26 2005, 07:15 AM)
btw, when you use 5 volt for vcc you wont get 3,3 out of any exit. take a closer look on the datasheet. maybe i havent understand you right dunno..after i know that we dont need 5 volts the hct model isnt the better option anymore. please correct me if im wrong ;)
You're right. I measured the output on the 74HCT, and you get 5vdc. But after I wired it up, I got 3.3 or very close to 3.3vdc. Thats what I meant by "you'll measure 3.3vdc". Sounds like you guys are right about the 3.3vdc logic. I'll have to try this to see if it works better or is more reliable. I've always been going by what the linux pages say..
Post by: Tiros on March 26, 2005, 12:10:00 PM
Glad to hear 5 volts is not a requirement.
I agree it may even be dangerous, long term.
Anyone who used OpAmp/HC/HCT and 5 volts will be at risk. With 3.3v the HCT has no advantage to HC. Use what is available. I suggest waiting anyway since within the next week there will very likely be a no chip soulution available. Menlik is only using the chip for safety during his experiments. Can one of you with the real drive get hold of a DVM and participate here?
WRT ready:
If you are using the picture in post #445 it does not show PCB traces under controller chip. I don't know why that red line points to that particular pin. It could go anywhere. This signal was the only real problem for 616 too. Eventually I guided a user with a dvm over the phone. I never even saw the original drive.
In the 616 case the ready pin on PC drive had no other connection, and IIRC the xbox 605 sammy only connected yellow wire to that pin (thru 100 ohm). Maybe this info will help you find it.
It sounds like you are not using the buffer for LDOUT, correct?
Have you any luck in finding the other tray signal inverted so no chip will be required? I'm certain ready will not require inversion when it is found.
Do you know the instruction set the controller uses?
Do you have Oscope?
Still waiting for my drive.
Post by: menelik on March 26, 2005, 12:41:00 PM
no i have no oscope....which would make it easier to find the points (i'd need the original though)
and no i didnt buffer ldout because it wasnt needed
i wont continue to find the equivalent points because i havent the original drive, its kinda working blind...
...moreover i took a closer look on many pcitures and compared the original and the 8163b pcb. after that i am not that sure that we'll find the equivalent points. the ready signal for example doesnt have to come from the panasonic as i saw the same trace going to the an22023...but dont forget, this is just a thesis and i only worked with pictures.
i also dont believe that ready wont need a inversion whenever its found. if not there must be a workaround since my magic finger can send the ready signal ;)
btw, when i used my finger for the ready signal the drive worked perfectly. it even closed itself on poweroff.
this should mean that the opamp is needless because of two things:
you dont need to amplifie anything.
you dont need to reverse with an opamp as the hc makes it easier.
but: the opamp is just another way to get it working, there are several ways which lead to finish.
i cant stress this enough:
please dont threat this too serious unless i delievered the final proof. i hate puplishing without proofs.
status: still waiting that someone finds the ready signal.
Post by: Tiros on March 26, 2005, 01:58:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 26 2005, 06:40 PM)
@tiros
no i have no oscope....which would make it easier to find the points (i'd need the original though)
and no i didnt buffer ldout because it wasnt needed
i wont continue to find the equivalent points because i havent the original drive, its kinda working blind...
...moreover i took a closer look on many pcitures and compared the original and the 8163b pcb. after that i am not that sure that we'll find the equivalent points. the ready signal for example doesnt have to come from the panasonic as i saw the same trace going to the an22023...but dont forget, this is just a thesis and i only worked with pictures.
i also dont believe that ready wont need a inversion whenever its found. if not there must be a workaround since my magic finger can send the ready signal ;)
no i have no oscope....which would make it easier to find the points (i'd need the original though)
and no i didnt buffer ldout because it wasnt needed
i wont continue to find the equivalent points because i havent the original drive, its kinda working blind...
...moreover i took a closer look on many pcitures and compared the original and the 8163b pcb. after that i am not that sure that we'll find the equivalent points. the ready signal for example doesnt have to come from the panasonic as i saw the same trace going to the an22023...but dont forget, this is just a thesis and i only worked with pictures.
i also dont believe that ready wont need a inversion whenever its found. if not there must be a workaround since my magic finger can send the ready signal ;)
Because that trace goes to an22023 I do not think it is the ready signal.
Meanwhile maybe you could trace the Trin switch around on the LG and see if it goes through any circuit that could invert it on way to CPU.
I have a scope and if nobody produces the ready signal by DVM trace out, I will look for it next week (trin as well). Since I know exactly ready signal it looks like, I may be able to find it without original drive.
Post by: truBB on March 27, 2005, 02:30:00 AM
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/12b_schematic.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/solder_points.jpg)
Basically the HFM point (not the HFMDRV) is used as the ready point. The cap and resistor components add a delay for the ready signal. A larger resistor, aka 200k or 300k will also work, but the disk will take more time to become available. Although not shown in the schematic, I used a Y-adapter for power to the dvd drive.
If ppl are interested, I can post a signal trace of the original thompson dvd drive I have tested.
Special thanks to my brother on helping on this project and wenid for pulling the firmware. I appreciate all the other help that ppl in this thread have posted to contribute to the success of this mod. More pics and hopefully a full tutorial to come, as I'm many hours past my bed-time. :beer:
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 06:14:00 AM
but i just used any diodes are got aournd here (smd without labels, should be a standard one) and took the biggest smd capacitor (got my better multi on my work, couldnt measure) as you wanted 10pf.
very good work truebb. but you should use the hc model with 3,3 volt instead.
This post has been edited by menelik: Mar 27 2005, 02:15 PM
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 07:23:00 AM
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 09:59:00 AM
i get an unknown on a original xbox game, everything else works and the original is readable. can you confirm this? i guess i gotta get the right capacitor.
Post by: truBB on March 27, 2005, 10:42:00 AM
The resistor and cap values are important, as they determine the time constant. So, 100Kohms * 10uF = 1sec (approx). This is what worked for me.
Thats 10microfarads, not 10 puff; typo menekik?. But you should be be able to use any combination to reach at least 1sec, aka 1Mohm and 1uF should work, or 10Kohm and 100uF should work, etc.
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 10:45:00 AM
Post by: truBB on March 27, 2005, 11:00:00 AM
I don't think thats the best place to mount the 74hct. The location you picked is on the laser suspension (the rubber bushings) and any external wires could create a shock load. There are a couple of pockets under the board that may be better. See if you can put it under there...
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 11:19:00 AM
the place is fine because there are no movements and the cables are fixed to that they dont disturb the laser. im open to any better positions, just put it in there and didnt look for other places.
This post has been edited by menelik: Mar 27 2005, 07:21 PM
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 11:36:00 AM
we could stay on SMD then too, correct me if i'm wrong?
Post by: Tiros on March 27, 2005, 11:44:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 27 2005, 08:29 AM)
If ppl are interested, I can post a signal trace of the original thompson dvd drive I have tested.
Specifically, you know the path from Ready signal throughout the original xdrive?
I would like to take a look if it is possible.
I still believe it may be possible to eliminate the chip.
To save space, bend all IC legs flat, cut off points, solder to stubs.
As someone said earlier, connect all unused CMOS inputs to GND or VCC.
VCC should be pin 14, should be 3.3 volt as menlik said.
In this circuit, the HC(t)14 is a MUCH better choice than the HC(t)04.
Congrats on the results!
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 27 2005, 07:54 PM
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 12:42:00 PM
i took a look on the hc14 and couldnt see an imrpovement for this case as we have constant voltages of aorund 0 and 3,3. the hysteresis should have no affect here. it even could make some probs because the bigger hysteresis could make the on/off inaccurately.
?
This post has been edited by menelik: Mar 27 2005, 08:45 PM
Post by: menelik on March 27, 2005, 02:27:00 PM
forget about my post about the capacitor and resistor ratings, prices are almost the same and we have enough space for elkos.
Post by: truBB on March 27, 2005, 04:21:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 27 2005, 09:43 AM)
Specifically, you know the path from Ready signal throughout the original xdrive?
I would like to take a look if it is possible.
I still believe it may be possible to eliminate the chip.
I would like to take a look if it is possible.
I still believe it may be possible to eliminate the chip.
Yeah, you might be able to eliminate the chip. But looking at the images from my post #445, the resistors runing in series coming from pin 5,6&7 are 1k ohm (ie. R228), which I didn't find on the GDR-8163b at all. So when you find these points on the LG xdrive, you may still need these parts. I hope you can get one of these xdrive, as I'm curious as to where these connections go.
menelik,
I popped in a 74HC14 & used a diode to drop the input voltage, and tested away. I found that I needed to increase the resistor-cap values to get it to work (270Kohm & 10uF worked great) . Then I went back to my 74HCT14, tried different dvd-Rs, ritek G04, ritek G05, maxell, princo dvd-rw, verbatim cdrw, with this resistor-cap values. It worked very well with all the disks.
I'm going to change my pictures to use this resistor-cap combo now. I believe its a more robust solution to the problem.
I also tried some original game disks and could only get it to say "game" in eVox after the first eject. THis is really not a problem since you can still play the game apon boot-up & rip the dvd within dvd2xbox. My solution is really a hack to get this drive to work. We found it to be the simplest solution for the problem. Looking back at all the data read from my original thompson, it would require a uController or a more complex circuit to give the xbox the signals it wants. Basically, what I have works, but it is definitely not perfect.
Post by: bourke on March 27, 2005, 06:16:00 PM
They seemed to have patched RPC1 on the 8163B last July; do you really think that it would be that difficult a change to unlock the drive speed?
Is it likely to be just a couple of bytes/bits in the firmware that limits the drive speed?
cheers,
Bourkie
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 27, 2005, 09:56:00 PM
QUOTE(bourke @ Mar 27 2005, 06:15 PM)
Do you think the Dangerous Brothers could patch the firmware to read at 16X rather than 4X?
They seemed to have patched RPC1 on the 8163B last July; do you really think that it would be that difficult a change to unlock the drive speed?
Is it likely to be just a couple of bytes/bits in the firmware that limits the drive speed?
cheers,
Bourkie
They seemed to have patched RPC1 on the 8163B last July; do you really think that it would be that difficult a change to unlock the drive speed?
Is it likely to be just a couple of bytes/bits in the firmware that limits the drive speed?
cheers,
Bourkie
First, it would be much harder to change the speed than to change the region locks. The reason is that the xbox firmware is encrypted, and regular dvd-rom firmware is not.
Second, most firmware hackers, including the Dangerous Brothers don't want to get on M$'s bad side. They don't want to be sued. So,you would have to find a firmware hacker with encryption experience who is willing to put a few hundred man hours into hacking the firmware with no pay for their services, and the risk of being sued by M$.
Post by: bourke on March 27, 2005, 11:48:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 28 2005, 04:55 AM)
First, it would be much harder to change the speed than to change the region locks. The reason is that the xbox firmware is encrypted, and regular dvd-rom firmware is not.
Second, most firmware hackers, including the Dangerous Brothers don't want to get on M$'s bad side. They don't want to be sued. So,you would have to find a firmware hacker with encryption experience who is willing to put a few hundred man hours into hacking the firmware with no pay for their services, and the risk of being sued by M$.
Second, most firmware hackers, including the Dangerous Brothers don't want to get on M$'s bad side. They don't want to be sued. So,you would have to find a firmware hacker with encryption experience who is willing to put a few hundred man hours into hacking the firmware with no pay for their services, and the risk of being sued by M$.
Are we 100% sure it is encrypted? Is the binary completely difference to the one in the 8163B?
If it is encrypted is has to be hardware encrypted (e.g. SHA1) does it not?
I am sure the firmware encryption is slightly easier than the 2048-bit RSA key used for the games!
I am willing to have a crack at decrypting it if anyone else cares to join in?!
After all decryption for the purpose of inter-operability is perfectly legal here in Australia, and I believe that is also the case for the US - see Lexmark vs Static Control Components (SCC)!
cheers,
Bourkie
This post has been edited by bourke: Mar 28 2005, 07:51 AM
Post by: wenid on March 28, 2005, 03:10:00 AM
Feel free to point at me and laugh or whatever if it makes you feel better somehow, just don't expect me to give a crap. Personally, I only ever viewed my earlier work as prototypical, investigative probing. I don't know why it has been taken as if it was a finished (or even nearly finished) product. Sorry if I seemed to represent it as such.
Now, however, I am finished. Here are the points. All but eject, which I'm assuming everyone agrees is fine as per the markings on the circuit board itself (most recently illustrated by truBB in post 489 and kind of incidentally by menelik in 491).
Recent experience has led me to believe that our naming of these signals is a bit misleading, but I'll stick with it for want of anything better, except that I can't remember which is which of the tray signals anymore (or at least not right now). Pin numbers are based on looking into the socket on an Xbox DVD drive and counting from left to right, top row then bottom row
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12
From left to right in the pic, the points are "ready" (pink circle, pin 9), tray signal 1(in? out? who knows? pin 3 anyway, yellow circle), unconnected pin in SD-616T mod that I'll call "valid" (pin 10, blue circle), tray signal 2 (pin 4, red circle).
On the 8050L, all these have a 1k resistor between the connector for the yellow wires cable and the controller chip. Those resistors aren't present on the 8163B (presumably because these signals aren't connected to the outside world in an unmodified 8163B). I installed my own 1k resistors by tacking one end of the resistor to each point and then connecting the signal wire to the other end of the resistor. I'm pretty sure it will work without them, but I wouldn't recommend leaving them out -- they must be there for good reason in the 8050L.
Finally, here are the pins on the controller chip that each of these points is connected to
ready/pink - pin 50
tray 1/yellow - pin 49
valid/blue - pin 52
tray 2/red - pin 65
Post by: menelik on March 28, 2005, 05:59:00 AM
Post by: bourke on March 28, 2005, 06:12:00 AM
I have 4 8163Bs here ready to test this all out... off to Jaycar for some cheap 1k0s :-)
cheers,
Bourkie
P.S. I reckon these will fetch AUS$90 each here in Melbourne ($55 + old Xbox drive profit for 15 mins work!)
Post by: bourke on March 28, 2005, 06:49:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Mar 28 2005, 10:16 AM)
On the 8050L, all these have a 1k resistor between the connector for the yellow wires cable and the controller chip. Those resistors aren't present on the 8163B (presumably because these signals aren't connected to the outside world in an unmodified 8163B). I installed my own 1k resistors by tacking one end of the resistor to each point and then connecting the signal wire to the other end of the resistor. I'm pretty sure it will work without them, but I wouldn't recommend leaving them out -- they must be there for good reason in the 8050L.
All perfect, however one last question:
On the 8050L, does the eject signal also have a 1k0 resistor between the connector and the point on the board?
cheers,
Bourkie
Post by: Tiros on March 28, 2005, 10:51:00 AM
Great work, wenid!
Those 1k resistors are there to protect against the (possible) voltage mismatch between the 3.3 drive supply and the 3.3 xbox logic supply. As long as the supplies are within .6 volts of each other (and they really oughta or something is wrong), they will not forward bias protection diodes on xbox main board and are unnecessary. They can't hurt though.
Menlik,
I was suggesting the HC(t)14 would be better due to the long rise time on the "created" ready signal. Since the true signal is now found it doesn't matter.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Mar 28 2005, 06:51 PM
Post by: menelik on March 28, 2005, 11:04:00 AM
Post by: truBB on March 28, 2005, 01:14:00 PM
Post by: rutgerius on March 28, 2005, 02:22:00 PM
truBB could you let us now if it works. And could you tell me if you stuck to your schematics from your earlier post. Can I use your schematics and wenid's points?
I ask this because in the picture of menelik I believe to see an other configuration.
Post by: menelik on March 28, 2005, 02:26:00 PM
my picture was different because we didnt now how the get all the signals we need without technical addons. if wenid is right we wont need those addons anymore - wait for trubb to confirm that.
Post by: rutgerius on March 28, 2005, 02:37:00 PM
That would be the best xbox-mod-news ever.
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 28, 2005, 03:28:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 28 2005, 04:55 AM)
First, it would be much harder to change the speed than to change the region locks. The reason is that the xbox firmware is encrypted, and regular dvd-rom firmware is not.
Second, most firmware hackers, including the Dangerous Brothers don't want to get on M$'s bad side. They don't want to be sued. So,you would have to find a firmware hacker with encryption experience who is willing to put a few hundred man hours into hacking the firmware with no pay for their services, and the risk of being sued by M$.
Second, most firmware hackers, including the Dangerous Brothers don't want to get on M$'s bad side. They don't want to be sued. So,you would have to find a firmware hacker with encryption experience who is willing to put a few hundred man hours into hacking the firmware with no pay for their services, and the risk of being sued by M$.
Have you seen both firmwares?, ofcourse i can be wrong but i'm pretty sure they have exactly the same encryption, just look at it an you can see large pieces of code that are exactly the same(such as the beginning).
Maby it's only an adressline shift or something, probably not something big because otherwise it would probably consume too much resources.
The brothers were able to crack the 8163b firmware so i'm sure they can tell us how to "read" the image because the standard way of looking at it doesn't seem to work.
Ofcourse m$ can't sue anybody if there's an anounimous firmware post in some p2p network.
Hey Wenid, knew you would be back, the question im burning to ask is "did you do a retrace or did you just look for the signals?"
100 points and a :beer: for the man!!
p.s. it's probably not a good idea to mass mail the brothers, or is it? , normally they crack fw's if there's enough animo for it
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 28, 2005, 04:28:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 28 2005, 03:27 PM)
Have you seen both firmwares?, ofcourse i can be wrong but i'm pretty sure they have exactly the same encryption, just look at it an you can see large pieces of code that are exactly the same(such as the beginning).
Maby it's only an adressline shift or something, probably not something big because otherwise it would probably consume too much resources.
The brothers were able to crack the 8163b firmware so i'm sure they can tell us how to "read" the image because the standard way of looking at it doesn't seem to work.
Ofcourse m$ can't sue anybody if there's an anounimous firmware post in some p2p network.
Hey Wenid, knew you would be back, the question im burning to ask is "did you do a retrace or did you just look for the signals?"
100 points and a :beer: for the man!!
p.s. it's probably not a good idea to mass mail the brothers, or is it? , normally they crack fw's if there's enough animo for it
Maby it's only an adressline shift or something, probably not something big because otherwise it would probably consume too much resources.
The brothers were able to crack the 8163b firmware so i'm sure they can tell us how to "read" the image because the standard way of looking at it doesn't seem to work.
Ofcourse m$ can't sue anybody if there's an anounimous firmware post in some p2p network.
Hey Wenid, knew you would be back, the question im burning to ask is "did you do a retrace or did you just look for the signals?"
100 points and a :beer: for the man!!
p.s. it's probably not a good idea to mass mail the brothers, or is it? , normally they crack fw's if there's enough animo for it
The brothers have said no to repeatedly over hacking the samsung firmware, I don't think they will feel any different with this issue.
Post by: bourke on March 28, 2005, 05:50:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 28 2005, 11:27 PM)
The brothers have said no to repeatedly over hacking the samsung firmware, I don't think they will feel any different with this issue.
How about we ask the Brothers to 'limit' the original 8163B firmware to 4X max. speed!
That way we can probably work out what to do with the 8050 firmware with a hex editor and a few minutes!
cheers,
Bourkie
This post has been edited by bourke: Mar 29 2005, 01:53 AM
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 28, 2005, 05:51:00 PM
QUOTE(LenteSubigo @ Mar 28 2005, 11:27 PM)
The brothers have said no to repeatedly over hacking the samsung firmware, I don't think they will feel any different with this issue.
Ok, no hacking from their side, but maby a small tip how they managed to read the lg8163b firmware?, that would probably be enough for our needs.
(and maby some simple info like witch decompiler they used or what processor is used in the drive)
Post by: LenteSubigo on March 28, 2005, 08:19:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 28 2005, 05:50 PM)
Ok, no hacking from their side, but maby a small tip how they managed to read the lg8163b firmware?, that would probably be enough for our needs.
(and maby some simple info like witch decompiler they used or what processor is used in the drive)
(and maby some simple info like witch decompiler they used or what processor is used in the drive)
Well, their email address is publicly available. [email protected]
If you would like to ask them, feel free. I would expect a no or no responce myself.
They may give you a hint, but that is about it.
Post by: truBB on March 28, 2005, 08:27:00 PM
QUOTE
ready/pink - pin 50
tray 1/yellow - pin 49
valid/blue - pin 52
tray 2/red - pin 65
tray 1/yellow - pin 49
valid/blue - pin 52
tray 2/red - pin 65
For me, pin 49 goes to this orange point, not the yellow as you pointed out. I tried that too, but still nothing. All the others seem to be labeled correctly.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/pins_ucontroller3.jpg)
Pin 49, front side of ucontroller
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/pins_ucontroller.jpg)
Also, are you sure that all these four signals go thru 1Kohm resistors? I only found 3 per the front side of the 8050L pictures:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/resistors_signals.jpg)
Then again, I don't have the drive to check it.
Post by: truBB on March 29, 2005, 01:48:00 AM
Wenid or NE1 else who has this xdrive 8050L drive, does this look like where the serial line runs to (pin3 on ucontroller) ?? Sure looks like it:Bottom side:
Top side:
Post by: menelik on March 29, 2005, 02:58:00 AM
Post by: wenid on March 29, 2005, 03:00:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 29 2005, 01:26 PM)
No-go. Wenid, could you check those connections again?
For me, pin 49 goes to this orange point, not the yellow as you pointed out.
For me, pin 49 goes to this orange point, not the yellow as you pointed out.
Oops. You're right. It is in fact the orange point that I'm using. I dunno how I manged to circle the wrong one.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 29 2005, 01:26 PM)
I tried that too, but still nothing.
Well I don't know what to tell you. With these points and 1k resistors (plus eject) it's working perfectly for me.
QUOTE(truBB @ Mar 29 2005, 01:26 PM)
Also, are you sure that all these four signals go thru 1Kohm resistors? I only found 3 per the front side of the 8050L pictures:
Yes, I'm sure. The resistor for the "valid" signal is elsewhere. My 8050L is now reassembled and I don't really want to dismantle it again just to re-find the location of this one resistor.
Post by: wenid on March 29, 2005, 03:01:00 AM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 29 2005, 07:57 PM)
that yellow ready point never worked for me too
Ready is the pink one
Post by: menelik on March 29, 2005, 03:36:00 AM
just took a closer look on your pics and saw that pink is 'serial data' and blue is 'ready'. got to try that.
Post by: garydlb on March 29, 2005, 04:44:00 AM
Has anybody written a detailed tutorial on using a Gdr-8163b in the xbox?
thanbks
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on March 29, 2005, 05:54:00 AM
QUOTE(garydlb @ Mar 29 2005, 09:43 PM)
Hey
Has anybody written a detailed tutorial on using a Gdr-8163b in the xbox?
thanbks
Has anybody written a detailed tutorial on using a Gdr-8163b in the xbox?
thanbks
dont think so. they still have to figure out what to do with some of the points i think
Post by: patx on March 29, 2005, 12:45:00 PM
(IMG:http://public.telmilot.net/victor/8163BPoints.jpg)
Post by: patx on March 29, 2005, 12:41:00 PM
These signals go thru 1Kohm resistors execpt for EJECT.
Post by: truBB on March 29, 2005, 01:17:00 PM
QUOTE(patx @ Mar 29 2005, 10:47 AM)
OK !! I tried that but no succes...Does anybody can tell my what did I did wrong ?
These signals go thru 1Kohm resistors execpt for EJECT.
These signals go thru 1Kohm resistors execpt for EJECT.
patx, I think you got pins 5 & 7 swapped. Read carefully what wenid said:
QUOTE(wenid)
Pin numbers are based on looking into the socket on an Xbox DVD...
I double checked my connections today w/ a DMM, and still no-go. When I boot into evox, it tells me that the tray is "OPEN". Thus, determining that tray_in or tray_out is incorrectly wired. Looking more into the signal traces, I really think that either TRAY_IN or TRAY_OUT is not correct. The picture below shows that TRAY_IN goes thru a complicated path to get to pin65. Is it really pin65?
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/trace_ready_8050L3b2.jpg)
Wenid, is there anyway that you can take a few snapshots of your setup?
Post by: truBB on March 29, 2005, 01:26:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 29 2005, 01:42 AM)
sorry for that, typo, meant the pink one.....all those colors...just too many for my brain ;)
just took a closer look on your pics and saw that pink is 'serial data' and blue is 'ready'. got to try that.
just took a closer look on your pics and saw that pink is 'serial data' and blue is 'ready'. got to try that.
Another typo, menelik ? :)
Pink = ready
Blue = serial
This post has been edited by truBB: Mar 29 2005, 09:26 PM
Post by: patx on March 29, 2005, 01:41:00 PM
What if we use the tray_in, tray_out & eject points from your post #489 the READY & DATA from Wenid's one ??Will it work ??
Post by: menelik on March 29, 2005, 02:17:00 PM
im swapping all colors ..this happens when you drink too much and try to write.
anyway, trubb, did you try to swap the tray signals? maybe they're just swapped - but im sure you tried that. maybe you could post the voltages of those points, this should lead us to the right way. moreover you got a nice oscope, why dont you use it ;)
btw, i dont wanna command you, i just ont have the equipment right here.
This post has been edited by menelik: Mar 29 2005, 10:18 PM
Post by: truBB on March 29, 2005, 04:22:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ Mar 29 2005, 12:16 PM)
@trubb
im swapping all colors ..this happens when you drink too much and try to write.
anyway, trubb, did you try to swap the tray signals? maybe they're just swapped - but im sure you tried that. maybe you could post the voltages of those points, this should lead us to the right way. moreover you got a nice oscope, why dont you use it ;)
btw, i dont wanna command you, i just ont have the equipment right here.
im swapping all colors ..this happens when you drink too much and try to write.
anyway, trubb, did you try to swap the tray signals? maybe they're just swapped - but im sure you tried that. maybe you could post the voltages of those points, this should lead us to the right way. moreover you got a nice oscope, why dont you use it ;)
btw, i dont wanna command you, i just ont have the equipment right here.
Unfortunately, I don't have an o-scope (I used my brother's). Yeah, I tried swapping it, but really, its a shot in the dark. I'd prefer to have the drive in hand, so I can check it myself. Well, that comes to thinking, NE1 with one of these LG drives willing to sell it?
This post has been edited by truBB: Mar 30 2005, 12:26 AM
Post by: skyhi on March 30, 2005, 01:56:00 AM
Keep up the great work all - Wenid this couldn't have been done without someone willing to take the time and effort to do what you did for this hack!!
What a great mod for ~$20.00!
Post by: patx on March 30, 2005, 07:52:00 AM
As I posted before by using truBB's points on front & Wenid ones on back I HAVE IT RUNNING LIKE AN ORIGINAL DRIVE !!! ... just 4 wires and a 1k ohm resistor on the CD_RDY wire. The xbox even boot with the eject button !!! I played originals, backups, muzik, dvds ... everything works fine !!!!
This post has been edited by patx: Mar 30 2005, 03:58 PM
Post by: Darts on March 30, 2005, 08:09:00 AM
By the way : congratulations to all of you who worked on this project, we now have a wonderfull alternative to the XBOX DVD drives. Also congratulations to the people of the french website http://gueux.be who worked hard with your contribution on this topic
A tutorial on this manipulation is also available but in french.
Thank you all :)
Post by: patx on March 30, 2005, 08:16:00 AM
This post has been edited by patx: Mar 30 2005, 04:20 PM
Post by: patx on March 30, 2005, 08:26:00 AM
This post has been edited by patx: Mar 30 2005, 04:27 PM
Post by: patx on March 30, 2005, 09:49:00 AM
This post has been edited by patx: Mar 30 2005, 05:50 PM
Post by: menelik on March 30, 2005, 11:38:00 AM
can you confirm that the ready function works fine? just wondering cause you used hfmdrv.
Post by: fatus on March 30, 2005, 12:23:00 PM
but i have used a different tray in point, but my drive board is a bit messed up after lots of soldering.
big thanks to all involved :beer:
This post has been edited by fatus: Mar 30 2005, 08:25 PM
Post by: patx on March 30, 2005, 02:45:00 PM
QUOTE
can you confirm that the ready function works fine? just wondering cause you used hfmdrv.
YES everything works fine exept that i don't have the"open" & "close" mention in EVOX. ( but "init","checking","games","video"... all appers) and for my part i soldered a 1k ohm resistor on all wires exept for EJECT.
This post has been edited by patx: Mar 30 2005, 10:53 PM
Post by: buzzlevrai on March 30, 2005, 03:11:00 PM
it is very good.
this drive works !!!!!!!!!!
Post by: XBoXMan on March 30, 2005, 06:03:00 PM
Post by: wenid on March 30, 2005, 06:47:00 PM
Firstly, the working drive is older. The label on the case is stamped March 2004 whereas the other drive is January 2005. I found two markings on each circuit board that seem to be version numbers of some sort. One is on the component side under the audio output connector and the master/slave/cable select jumper. On the older, working drive this one reads 6870H-344AA. On the newer drive it's the same except it ends in AB instead of AA. The other version/revision number is on the other side of the board in the corner where there's sort of a gap at the end of all the connectors and jumpers.. On the working drive it reads
JD4 (GDR-8163B)
2004/02-02
On the newer drive the first line is the same but the second line is 2004/01-08.
Next, the firmware on each drive is slightly different. The working drive was flashed using my IDE flasher and the firmware as I extracted it from my 8050L. The newer drive was flashed with the .EXE from xbins. After extracting the ROM image from this .EXE I discovered that it does not exactly match the image I extracted from my 8050L. The difference would appear on the face of it to be unimportant, but I can't be sure. My image has 8KB of FF bytes from offset 0x4000 to 0x5FFF. The .EXE image has a repeating pattern 99 9B 9F 08. This pattern seems to be used as "filler" in other areas in both images (maybe it's some kind of jump instruction or NOP).
Finally, the working drive is the one I've been using for all my experimentation, so it's possible that it has been damaged in some way or that earlier experiments have altered its function in some way.
I'm kind of tempted to hook up the IDE flasher to one of these newer drives and flash my ROM image to it, but it's a pain to do and maybe the act of doing this has some side-effect I'm not aware of, so I'm not sure it would really prove anything unless the experiment fails.
Post by: truBB on March 30, 2005, 07:53:00 PM
Yes, use HFM, as its the cleaned signal of the HFMDRV. The small component nearby is the buffer for this trace.
Also, xboxman, did you try an original xbox dvd, and it comes up ok in eVox? According to the french tutorial, it comes up, but those pics are blurry! (Dude, use a tripod!)
Post by: truBB on March 30, 2005, 10:57:00 PM
I did get my IDE-flasher from germany, but really havn't played with it much yet. I got in my linux box, compiled ctflasher, a little bumpy, but got it to work. I'm a bit unfamiliar in the next step. Did you unsolder the chip then place it into the flasher? Or did you solder a million wires? This is of course, for future reference, as this firmware has already been pulled.
Post by: CancerBoy on March 30, 2005, 11:10:00 PM
This post has been edited by CancerBoy: Mar 31 2005, 07:22 AM
Post by: XBoXMan on March 31, 2005, 01:39:00 AM
I didn't try the orignal xbox drive as I don't have one
Post by: Stitch_626 on March 31, 2005, 03:54:00 AM
A short tut has been submitted to tutorial on xboxscene this should help with converting lg 8163b to work on an xbox. This should fix problems with TRin, TRout & Cd_Rdy. Keep up the good work!
Post by: patx on March 31, 2005, 07:30:00 AM
QUOTE
Just a little adjustment to patx instruction. I found out that when using HFMDRV as ready point, the tray will not close when you power off your xbox. When using HFM as ready, the tray will close automatically as you power off the xbox with the tray left open.
My tray closes when I power off my console ... but If it works with HFM, than i guess its better to use it !!!
Post by: truBB on March 31, 2005, 09:02:00 PM
Basically,
uC (pin 49) ==== 1K (r227)====pin 5 (tray_out)
uC (pin 50) ==== 1K (r228)====pin 6 (ready)
uC (pin 52) ==== 1K (r229)====pin 8 (serial)
uC (pin 65) ==== 1K (r230)====pin 7 (tray_in)
Must be because the circuit is different. I will have to look into it further and compare the drives.
Post by: XBoXMan on March 31, 2005, 10:42:00 PM
does that mean you got it working 100% or you're just saying the points were correctly traced?
Post by: rutgerius on April 01, 2005, 05:15:00 AM
Look at the result...
Post by: rutgerius on April 01, 2005, 06:22:00 AM
Ubermod
Post by: truBB on April 01, 2005, 11:41:00 AM
QUOTE(XBoXMan @ Mar 31 2005, 08:48 PM)
@truBB
does that mean you got it working 100% or you're just saying the points were correctly traced?
does that mean you got it working 100% or you're just saying the points were correctly traced?
I was just verifying wenid's points.
Post by: bourke on April 01, 2005, 06:14:00 PM
QUOTE(rutgerius @ Apr 1 2005, 01:21 PM)
You seem to be missing power and ground wires ;-)
Post by: XBoXMan on April 01, 2005, 10:51:00 PM
Post by: bourke on April 02, 2005, 12:11:00 AM
QUOTE(XBoXMan @ Apr 2 2005, 05:50 AM)
I think he's using the Y power splitter
Waste of money/space :-P
Does anyone know where to buy cheap molex connector sockets?
The socket (for the DVD drive) is preferable, however the plug (the one on the ends of yellow cable) would suffice if it's cheap!
cheers,
Bourkie
This post has been edited by bourke: Apr 2 2005, 08:14 AM
Post by: truBB on April 02, 2005, 02:56:00 AM
Post by: {{DEMON}} on April 02, 2005, 03:35:00 AM
Have all the points been traced Correctly?
Don't feel like reading 38 pages of stuff...
IS there a tutorial and Firmware URL?
Thanks,
{DEMON}
PS: I got 5 Hitachi Drives here ready to mod if this is 100%.
Thanks in advance.
{{DeMON}}
Post by: bourke on April 02, 2005, 05:31:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Apr 2 2005, 09:55 AM)
Just go to the molex web page, and request eng'r samples...
What part number are they? (I looked but couldn't find the specific ones)
Also, would they send about 50 eng'r samples?!
Post by: truBB on April 02, 2005, 12:25:00 PM
QUOTE({{DEMON}} @ Apr 2 2005, 01:34 AM)
I aassume the PC Hitachi Drives are as Good a Replacement as the Samsung 616t's?
Have all the points been traced Correctly?
IS there a tutorial and Firmware URL?
Thanks,
{DEMON}
PS: I got 5 Hitachi Drives here ready to mod if this is 100%.
Thanks in advance.
{{DeMON}}
Have all the points been traced Correctly?
IS there a tutorial and Firmware URL?
Thanks,
{DEMON}
PS: I got 5 Hitachi Drives here ready to mod if this is 100%.
Thanks in advance.
{{DeMON}}
The GDR-8163b can't read cd-Rs, AFAIK. The current mod is not 100%; if you hook it up per the french tutorial, eVox incorrectly displays its status. It does work as expected though, reading originals and backups if flashed correctly. Other proggies may have problems: such as xecuter3, smartxx, flashbios firmware, when looking for media (untested).
Walking into this thread and asking 'where we are', and 'i don't feel like reading' is showing me that you're lazy and unwilling to contribute. Read all pages, and you'll find answers to your questions. <_<
This post has been edited by truBB: Apr 2 2005, 08:30 PM
Post by: Brock on April 02, 2005, 01:19:00 PM
I've been following this thread for a while now and finally decided to try this mod. I flashed my 8163b and have been using it with the original Thompson drive still in my xbox and all was well. I pulled out the soldering iron today to complete the mod and ran into some trouble. I did the four wires like patx posted, but I couldn't get it to work. I put a 1k Ohm resistor on the ready wire. Should I have a resistor on any other wires? What I'm seeing is when I press eject on the xbox, the drive ejects, but when I put a disc in, it doesn't load the game, just sits at the dashboard. I'm guessing then that the eject wire is connected properly. That leaves cdin, cdout and ready. I tried both the HFM and HFMRDY points for ready and same thing both times. Could this be my cdin and cdout wires reversed?
Ed
Post by: fatus on April 02, 2005, 02:40:00 PM
you can tell if they are wrong in evox eject the drive an the status will say no disc if reversed.
Post by: XBoXMan on April 02, 2005, 03:04:00 PM
Post by: {{DEMON}} on April 02, 2005, 03:16:00 PM
QUOTE
QUOTE({{DEMON}} @ Apr 2 2005, 01:34 AM)
I aassume the PC Hitachi Drives are as Good a Replacement as the Samsung 616t's?
Have all the points been traced Correctly?
IS there a tutorial and Firmware URL?
Thanks,
{DEMON}
PS: I got 5 Hitachi Drives here ready to mod if this is 100%.
Thanks in advance.
{{DeMON}}
The GDR-8163b can't read cd-Rs, AFAIK. The current mod is not 100%; if you hook it up per the french tutorial, eVox incorrectly displays its status. It does work as expected though, reading originals and backups if flashed correctly. Other proggies may have problems: such as xecuter3, smartxx, flashbios firmware, when looking for media (untested).
Walking into this thread and asking 'where we are', and 'i don't feel like reading' is showing me that you're lazy and unwilling to contribute. Read all pages, and you'll find answers to your questions.
I aassume the PC Hitachi Drives are as Good a Replacement as the Samsung 616t's?
Have all the points been traced Correctly?
IS there a tutorial and Firmware URL?
Thanks,
{DEMON}
PS: I got 5 Hitachi Drives here ready to mod if this is 100%.
Thanks in advance.
{{DeMON}}
The GDR-8163b can't read cd-Rs, AFAIK. The current mod is not 100%; if you hook it up per the french tutorial, eVox incorrectly displays its status. It does work as expected though, reading originals and backups if flashed correctly. Other proggies may have problems: such as xecuter3, smartxx, flashbios firmware, when looking for media (untested).
Walking into this thread and asking 'where we are', and 'i don't feel like reading' is showing me that you're lazy and unwilling to contribute. Read all pages, and you'll find answers to your questions.
IM just so active in other threads, I really don't have time to go through 38 pages to find out the status of this project. I read the first 3 or so pages when it hit X-S and i was just asking POLITELY for a status report to save me some time. I took the LAZY comment with a grain of salt
not a lazy person just very busy and active on here theres too much to keep up with.Thanks again,
{{DEMON}}
Post by: rutgerius on April 02, 2005, 05:11:00 PM
QUOTE(fatus @ Apr 2 2005, 10:39 PM)
I have done 2 drives now and i had to reverse the tray in out wires.
you can tell if they are wrong in evox eject the drive an the status will say no disc if reversed.
you can tell if they are wrong in evox eject the drive an the status will say no disc if reversed.
I had the same problem with the mix-up of the tray in and the tray out wire. But You see it directly, when evox is saying all the things the wrong way around. When I switched the two cables in the motherboardconnector it worked great.
Post by: 9alfred7 on April 02, 2005, 08:20:00 PM
QUOTE
I had the same problem with the mix-up of the tray in and the tray out wire. But You see it directly, when evox is saying all the things the wrong way around. When I switched the two cables in the motherboardconnector it worked great.
Are you sure you now get correct evox status?
(I don't) (switched and unswitched cables)
The original wire set-up appears backwards on evox, switching the wires makes evox disc status switch between 2 things (maybe tray open and tray closed -can't remember) back and fourth quickly.
Also, in the v1.0 I tried, ind-bios froze on logo screen. (drive is not flashed)
Post by: rutgerius on April 04, 2005, 09:35:00 AM
QUOTE(9alfred7 @ Apr 3 2005, 04:19 AM)
Are you sure you now get correct evox status?
(I don't) (switched and unswitched cables)
The original wire set-up appears backwards on evox, switching the wires makes evox disc status switch between 2 things (maybe tray open and tray closed -can't remember) back and fourth quickly.
Also, in the v1.0 I tried, ind-bios froze on logo screen. (drive is not flashed)
(I don't) (switched and unswitched cables)
The original wire set-up appears backwards on evox, switching the wires makes evox disc status switch between 2 things (maybe tray open and tray closed -can't remember) back and fourth quickly.
Also, in the v1.0 I tried, ind-bios froze on logo screen. (drive is not flashed)
I'm sure. I switched the two wires. First he said checking when the drive was open and open when the drive was closed. Now I get it all right: open, init, game ...
Post by: CancerBoy on April 04, 2005, 10:23:00 AM
QUOTE
I'm sure. I switched the two wires. First he said checking when the drive was open and open when the drive was closed. Now I get it all right: open, init, game ...
Are you sure you get init? I also switched the wires. Works great accept Init does not work. It skips right to game.
Post by: XBoXMan on April 04, 2005, 03:59:00 PM
Post by: rutgerius on April 04, 2005, 05:11:00 PM
Post by: skyhi on April 04, 2005, 05:34:00 PM
I've had the best results by also connecting the 'fifth wire' from Wenid's tutorial (the blue wire) but it still does not work perfectly.
Post by: davicoro on April 04, 2005, 09:05:00 PM
Post by: truBB on April 05, 2005, 12:41:00 PM
QUOTE(skyhi @ Apr 4 2005, 02:33 PM)
This all seems to be tied to a timing issue -
Yeah, you're exactly right. When I checked HFMDRV and HFM, on the 8163b, the signal pulses before the disk is actually ready. The thompson xdrive, on the otherhand has both TRAY_IN & READY go high at the exact same time. So a proposed solution is prolly just an AND with both of these, plus a cap-resistor-diode circuit, for the HFM. These signals are maybe found on the board, but I have yet to dig into it again.
I believe valius, hooked something like this before.
Post by: skyhi on April 05, 2005, 02:55:00 PM
Yeah - wish I had a scope to probe this - just seeing everyone's different problems smelled of timing problems. Hope you have some good luck trying something - keep up the great work!
Post by: Plagued on April 06, 2005, 04:38:00 PM
This is what I did - I've got a propper guide with better pics that I'll get on xbox-scene when I'm definately happy.
Post by: crazygreekangelo on April 06, 2005, 07:02:00 PM
Post by: Tiros on April 06, 2005, 08:08:00 PM
QUOTE(truBB @ Apr 5 2005, 05:40 PM)
Yeah, you're exactly right. When I checked HFMDRV and HFM, on the 8163b, the signal pulses before the disk is actually ready. The thompson xdrive, on the otherhand has both TRAY_IN & READY go high at the exact same time. So a proposed solution is prolly just an AND with both of these, plus a cap-resistor-diode circuit, for the HFM. These signals are maybe found on the board, but I have yet to dig into it again.
This info seems to be clearest on what pins go where on original drive.
Confirmed processor points
Assuming you have problems AND are using these points the following info may be helpful.
The ready signal is firmware controlled. If that pin is "ready" on the original, it must be "ready" after you flash the LG too. Unless something else is different about the hardware, causing the firmware to misbehave and synthesize an incorrect "ready" signal. So what could be different? Lot's of things. My first suspect is the timing of the open and close switches. This was a real problem for 616 drives that are not "T". Some users figured out by reshaping internal plastic on the disk tray, that the switch timing could, and needed to be, adjusted to make the firmware "behave" in that drive.
This is all a moot point if it's already working properly. It seems to be for some.
At this point is is unclear to me exactly what the "problems" are.
@TrueBB
You seem to have traced the connection points exactly to CPU.
Does it work 100% or no?
Acid Test
This post has been edited by Tiros: Apr 7 2005, 03:16 AM
Post by: davicoro on April 06, 2005, 08:52:00 PM
QUOTE(crazygreekangelo @ Apr 7 2005, 01:01 AM)
now nobody will have to entertain questions from those who are two lazy to read all 39 pages of this post.
Thats for me!!!
i just have 256k
Post by: Epic007 on April 07, 2005, 02:33:00 PM
The only difference on my setup is, I am only using one +12v and one +5v pin from the yellow connector (I am using the right two). And the left two pins for each ground.
Would it make a difference if I tied the two +12v pins and the two +5v pins together? I don't see how it would change anything, but maybe I am missing something here.
Post by: truBB on April 07, 2005, 03:37:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 6 2005, 05:07 PM)
@TrueBB
You seem to have traced the connection points exactly to CPU.
Does it work 100% or no?
Acid Test
You seem to have traced the connection points exactly to CPU.
Does it work 100% or no?
Acid Test
@Tiros
It works 0%. Doesn't work at all. Patx also confirmed this. eVox reports 'open' all the time, and it doesn't detect the dvd. This is using the same points from the xdrive to the 8163b. Wenid also recognized this problem, as he got a 'newer' 8163b, and didn't work 4 him as well. The only drive that works 100% with this connection is a drive that wenid has, which is manufactured somewhere in early 2004. Wenid also postulates that the firmware maybe the issue, since he flashed the working 8163b, with the IDE-flasher (and a original backup of the firmware).
Post by: bninja on April 07, 2005, 05:39:00 PM
i've got a white GDR-8163B manufactured in Dec 2004
i used the firmware flasher from 'the usual places'
i used the same points as Plagued (HFMDRV for ready, 1ohm resistor on ready, cd-in & cd-out), molex splitter for power and functionally it's working 100% for me.
I do have the issue that others have mentioned of evox not showing the correct 'opening, closing, init, game' sequence, but this doesn't worry me as it passed the 'acid test' and does what i need it to do
Post by: wenid on April 07, 2005, 07:23:00 PM
QUOTE(Epic007 @ Apr 8 2005, 06:32 AM)
Would it make a difference if I tied the two +12v pins and the two +5v pins together? I don't see how it would change anything, but maybe I am missing something here.
Yes, you need all wires for all supply rails. Single thin wires cannot carry enough current to power the drive properly, which is why they use multiple wires in the first place (shoddy, cheap-sh*t design if you ask me, but then that's Micro$oft through and through). You should also hook up the third ground wire.
Post by: Epic007 on April 08, 2005, 03:17:00 AM
It's almost like I have to let the drive sit there idle for awhile before I try loading a disk, to get it to work. But once it starts working, it keeps working no matter what I do until I power the xbox down for an extended amount of time.
It's odd, but what I did noticed when using a multi-meter is that when it fails to boot a disk, the ready signal has dropped low to zero volts. When working, it sits at +3.4v.
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 09, 2005, 01:17:00 AM
QUOTE(Epic007 @ Apr 8 2005, 09:16 AM)
It's odd, but what I did noticed when using a multi-meter is that when it fails to boot a disk, the ready signal has dropped low to zero volts. When working, it sits at +3.4v.
You're right,
Yesterday after i got my connectors i started modding my 8163B, i came to the conclusion that it spins down after about a minute or so.
Unless we can solve this it wont work.
We have two options:
1. Find the hard/software that makes the drive spin down
2. Find another ready point(probably seen something)
Wenid does your drive spin down?,
does the led stay on if you let it sit in evox for about 5 minwith a dvd inside?,
and does it keep saying game in evox?
Is there a possibility we could get some hi res pictures of your main dvd-pcb front and rear?
Post by: sness54 on April 09, 2005, 07:30:00 PM
Post by: Epic007 on April 09, 2005, 08:03:00 PM
It just died again. I can't get the drive to load anything again. For instance if you try and load an .xbe from a file manager, when you click on the file it says it is not a valid .xbe, click a few more times and you get the icon and load confirmation, you click yes and it starts for a second then reboots.
I wonder if my drive is just defective. All signals are good and solid but it just refuses to work sometimes.
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 10, 2005, 02:12:00 AM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 9 2005, 07:16 AM)
Yesterday after i got my connectors i started modding my 8163B, i came to the conclusion that it spins down after about a minute or so.
Talking about a december 2004 drive(the white one)
Post by: slipknots on April 10, 2005, 06:09:00 PM
Post by: Eron on April 10, 2005, 06:10:00 PM
It's funny, because I was using DVD +R media in it, loading auto installer 1.01, and it just up and died.. Would not eject, or respond to any commands..
I had to manually get the disk out, and I still can't get anything from the drive..
Any repair tips on that issue?
Anyhow, damn. I dunno what to do now, I have my box running with a LG8162B, but it of course cannot run original media..
I really don't want to shell out 100+ bucks for a replacement xbox dvd drive.. So I guess I am in the same boat as a lot of people..
So, what should one do?
Post by: CancerBoy on April 10, 2005, 07:23:00 PM
QUOTE
My qusetion is why are we trying to do it ? I thought at first it was to put a 16x speed dvd drive in an xbox. but now i see that when this finally works 100% we will be back where we started again.
The reason this is a great mod is becuase it can read orginals and is a cheap replacement.
QUOTE
In order to make this worth wile someone with working knowledge of the firmware needs to at least crack the speed limit problem at the very least.
It being a cheap replacement drive makes this worth while. I wouldn't mind seeing the firmware hacked for faster reading speeds but I doubt it will happen.
I have also noticed the spin down problem when pausing a dvd but that is a minor inconveince I can live with.
Thanks to everyone for hacking this I love my lg xbox dvd rom.
Post by: truBB on April 10, 2005, 11:52:00 PM
Here's a 2.7MB wav file to see my dashboard status. (1 week d/l)
1. I ejected, put in Slayers disk xbox dvd.
2. Ejected again, put in Original Xbox game.
3. Finally ejected, put nothing in.
I'll post more info later on the circuit.
Post by: Jinxter on April 11, 2005, 05:42:00 AM
I've a quick question on this too, I've attempted this mod, and it's fine as far as it currently goes but I can't get it to work with the PX Game Loader utility. Whenever I put a disk in using this program it refuses to read it.
Things to bare in mind are -
1. I've not flashed the firmaware as I want to be able to keep the 16x read quality.
2. I'm only trying to read in Backup games (as I don't want to risk my originals until I'm sure they are safe), and as I haven't flashed the firmware there is no way to read the original anyway.
3. I'm also trying to move data accross from CDR and DVD to the HD in an affort to read the files from the HD (I.e. Video, Music, shareware etc).
Anyone else experiencing this problem, any solutions?
And excellent work to TruBB and Wenid amongst others Thx
Cheers
Jinxter
Post by: Tiros on April 11, 2005, 10:11:00 AM
I have reason to believe that not reading CDR and the "timeout" problem are related. My drive is experiencing both problems.
The current state of this hack is no better than using the stock drive, except for booting originals. At this point you would even be better off not flashing, since you get CDR compatibilty, faster read, and no timeout. The points people are using, since they are not the same as the original xdrive, will likely produce the same result even without flashing.
It's not over yet, I have some ideas, but right now IMHO, it's not even close.
Post by: tito22 on April 11, 2005, 12:28:00 PM
Post by: slipknots on April 11, 2005, 05:01:00 PM
Post by: truBB on April 11, 2005, 09:10:00 PM
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/XBoxScans_GDR8050L_0001.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/XBoxScans_GDR8050L_0002.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/XBoxScans_GDR8050L_0003.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/XBoxScans_GDR8050L_0004.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/XBoxScans_GDR8050L_0005.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/XBoxScans_GDR8050L_0006.jpg)
The labels are represented by the cable pin out shown here: (expertly cut&paste)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/xbox_yellow_cable_end.jpg)
I have to agree that the firmware is either different, or the firmware is set up in a way to determine which circuit is available, and provides the right output. I would like to rip the firmware from the drive I have, but the traces are just too small for me to solder to, and I think I'd screw it up.
My brother looked at the above, and found that the 'ready' signal lets the xbox also know when to start looking at the other signals. In other words, wait till ready goes low, then check tray_in & tray_out. If you look at the second pic from the top (empty/opening), you'll see that ready is pulsed even though there is no disk.
We checked and triple checked the traces from the 8050L to the 8163B, and found that pin 50uC and pin 49uC behaved differently between the two (ready and tray_out, respectively).
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 12, 2005, 01:38:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Apr 12 2005, 03:09 AM)
I have to agree that the firmware is either different, or the firmware is set up in a way to determine which circuit is available, and provides the right output. I would like to rip the firmware from the drive I have, but the traces are just too small for me to solder to, and I think I'd screw it up.
Great work on the o-scope, makes a lot of sense now.
I've just compared the firmware used in the flasher with a ripped version of an 8050 and there are differences.
As Wenid stated earlyer there is an area (4000h) that is different, he stated that it was filled with some sort of filler.
The difference is in the filler used, but filler isn't that interesting, the interesting part is that there is a part in the filler on 4f80h that has a small amount of code and that is missing in the firmware flasher.
If i understand correctly the firmware is made up of blocks, and its very interesting to see that the difference is around 4000h, a very round number.
It's a shame that there is no real documentation on how to change firmware for dvd drives.
If we could only find a way to flash the drive back to it's old self, i would gladly make a version of the flasher that has the exact same firmware as the 8050 (if its as simple as it looks), i really dont want another bogus drive around.
Post by: skyhi on April 12, 2005, 06:32:00 AM
Would it be possible to replace the code that is in the flasher with the ripped version and just re-flash?
Great work maximilian0017!
Post by: wenid on April 12, 2005, 06:46:00 AM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 12 2005, 05:37 PM)
The difference is in the filler used, but filler isn't that interesting, the interesting part is that there is a part in the filler on 4f80h that has a small amount of code and that is missing in the firmware flasher.
I have confirmed this too. Well spotted max.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 12 2005, 05:37 PM)
If i understand correctly the firmware is made up of blocks, and its very interesting to see that the difference is around 4000h, a very round number.
The same thing occurred to me. It also starts at 2000h and is 4000h long. I don't understand why our unmentionable benefactors didn't use the firmware image as originally extracted by me, and I don't suppose there's much chance of getting an explanation from them (Lente?)
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 12 2005, 05:37 PM)
If we could only find a way to flash the drive back to it's old self
I take it you mean an easy and inexpensive way ;)
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 12 2005, 05:37 PM)
i would gladly make a version of the flasher that has the exact same firmware as the 8050 (if its as simple as it looks)
If you're thinking you can just overwrite the mismatched block in the .exe we have with the correct block from the "real" firmware, I'm afraid you're out of luck. I've already tried that. I assume the .exe runs some sort of checksum on the ROM image.
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 12 2005, 05:37 PM)
i really dont want another bogus drive around.
Indeed. What we really need is three flasher programs (or at least three functions -- maybe two or more functions could be integrated into one program)
a) flash an unmodified 8163B with the RIGHT 8050L firmware
B) reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
c) reflash an 8163B that was modified with the wrong 8050L to give it the correct firmware
I don't suppose there's any hope of getting more help from the same source as last time, is there, LenteSubigo?
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 12, 2005, 01:12:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 12 2005, 12:45 PM)
a) flash an unmodified 8163B with the RIGHT 8050L firmware
B) reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
c) reflash an 8163B that was modified with the wrong 8050L to give it the correct firmware
B) reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
c) reflash an 8163B that was modified with the wrong 8050L to give it the correct firmware
I found some interesting stuff on the net, there is hope(i hope)
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 12, 2005, 03:16:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 12 2005, 12:45 PM)
a) flash an unmodified 8163B with the RIGHT 8050L firmware
B) reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
c) reflash an 8163B that was modified with the wrong 8050L to give it the correct firmware
B) reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
c) reflash an 8163B that was modified with the wrong 8050L to give it the correct firmware
If it looks like an 8163b :rolleyes:
(with some strange wires ?!?!":-)
If it reads like an 8163b :unsure:
(in windows)
It probably is a 8163b again!!, got the drive back from the scrapheep. :beer:
Option B done, info soon!!!!
(have to make it user/M$ frendly)
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 12, 2005, 03:41:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 12 2005, 09:15 PM)
reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
info soon!!!!
info soon!!!!
ok, here it is (made this from the top of my head but this should work 100%)
Use on your own risk!!!
1. go to http://h20000.www2.h...-1&lang=English and download the file.
2. Execute the downloaded file and follow the on-screen instructions, insert a blank floppy and make sure the program writes to the floppy.
3. open the autoexec.bat from the floppy and REPLACE all text using cut and paste with:
@ECHO OFF
CLS
:LOOP
ECHO.
ECHO Get my 8163b back tool!!! V 1.0B
ECHO.
ECHO This tool wil flash any compatible drive with the 8163b firmware, so beware!
ECHO Make sure you know what you are doing
ECHO The Usage of this tool is on your own risk!!
ECHO.
ECHO 1. Flash drive on Primary Master
ECHO 2. Flash drive on Primary Slave
ECHO 3. Flash drive on Secondary Master
ECHO 4. Flash drive on Secondary Slave
ECHO 5. Quit
SET Choice=
SET /P Choice=Type the number and press Enter:
IF NOT '%Choice%'=='' SET Choice=%Choice:~0,1%
ECHO.
IF /I '%Choice%'=='1' GOTO PRIM
IF /I '%Choice%'=='2' GOTO PRIS
IF /I '%Choice%'=='3' GOTO SECM
IF /I '%Choice%'=='4' GOTO SECS
IF /I '%Choice%'=='5' GOTO End
ECHO "%Choice%" is not valid. Please try again.
ECHO.
GOTO Loop
:PRIM
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 0 /p /c /f /o /i
GOTO Again
:PRIS
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 1 /p /c /f /o /i
GOTO Again
:SECM
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 2 /p /c /f /o /i
GOTO Again
:SECS
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 3 /p /c /f /o /i
GOTO Again
:Again
PAUSE
CLS
GOTO Loop
:End
4. Save the file and restart the pc, make sure it boots from the floppy
5. Select how your drive is connected and folow the instructions on screen.
Maby someone wants to upload a complete disk to xbins?
Post by: slipknots on April 12, 2005, 04:29:00 PM
If you are able to get it to work will you be able to change the drive speed limit so that it will read at 16x??
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 12, 2005, 05:03:00 PM
QUOTE(slipknots @ Apr 12 2005, 10:28 PM)
maximilian0017:
If you are able to get it to work will you be able to change the drive speed limit so that it will read at 16x??
If you are able to get it to work will you be able to change the drive speed limit so that it will read at 16x??
At this moment i do not have the knowledge to disect firmwares, and at this time it isn't that important.
It will probably take a lot of time to learn all of this, so outside help is needed for 16x speed and cdr hacks.
But first things first, get the drive to work 100% as a 8050
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 12, 2005, 06:48:00 PM
Ofcourse the dos version used on that disk doesn't support set /p
So here's the new instruction:
Use on your own risk!!!
1. go to http://h20000.www2.h...-1&lang=English and download the file.
2. Execute the downloaded file and follow the on-screen instructions, insert a blank floppy and make sure the program writes to the floppy.
3. open the autoexec.bat from the floppy and REPLACE all text using cut and paste with:
@ECHO OFF
CLS
ECHO.
ECHO Get my 8163b back tool!!! V 1.1
ECHO.
ECHO This tool wil flash any compatible drive with the 8163b firmware, so beware!
ECHO Make sure you know what you are doing
ECHO The Usage of this tool is on your own risk!!
ECHO.
ECHO 1. Flash drive on Primary Master
ECHO 2. Flash drive on Primary Slave
ECHO 3. Flash drive on Secondary Master
ECHO 4. Flash drive on Secondary Slave
ECHO. ECHO Type the number and press Enter:
4. Make a file on the disk called 1.bat and insert the following text:
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 0 /p /c /f /o /i
5. Make a file on the disk called 2.bat and insert the following text:
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 1 /p /c /f /o /i
6. Make a file on the disk called 3.bat and insert the following text:
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 2 /p /c /f /o /i
7. Make a file on the disk called 4.bat and insert the following text:
SF8163.exe 3026B00A.DLD 3 /p /c /f /o /i
8.Restart the pc, make sure it boots from the floppy
9. Select how your drive is connected and follow the instructions on screen.
Maby someone wants to upload a complete disk to xbins?
Post by: Darts on April 13, 2005, 05:50:00 AM
If I understand you correctly, you provide here a way to turn an 8163B flashed in 8050 back in 8163B right?
Then you want to find a way to flash it correctly back to 8050, am I correct?
My question will then be, what's wrong with the old 8050 flash? (except the size matter)
It behalves the way of a normal 8050 the way I look at it. Isn't that your opinion?
Post by: Morien on April 13, 2005, 08:44:00 AM
I know that this is possibly a tricky question to answer, but how far off are we (or will we in the near future) be able to load 100% of media types in this drive? (DVDR/+R -+RW, CD-R, CD-RW)
Also, are there any other problems besides the drive stopping spinning? (Or has that been rectified or close to?)
Thanks
Morien
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 13, 2005, 03:51:00 PM
QUOTE(Darts @ Apr 13 2005, 11:49 AM)
Hi Maximillian,
If I understand you correctly, you provide here a way to turn an 8163B flashed in 8050 back in 8163B right?
If I understand you correctly, you provide here a way to turn an 8163B flashed in 8050 back in 8163B right?
Yes u r correct
The drive should behave just like Wenid his drive, the only differences in the drive's are the manufacture date and a few little differences in the firmware.
I really don't think that all the problems we are having with this drive are caused by the manufacture date, and the size of the differences in the firmware could easely contain the code that we need to make this work.
We first need to know a few things instead of guessing, that will make this job a lot easyer.
Does anyone have any info on the .dld format for firmwares?, i really can't find anything on the net
Post by: slipknots on April 13, 2005, 04:30:00 PM
Post by: Epic007 on April 13, 2005, 09:12:00 PM
With your info I was able to reflash and salvage my 8163B. It had gone into a complete failure state while trying to get it to work correctly on the xbox. It wouldn't even recognize a DVD.
Although I did have to add the /r switch to your direction. It kept giving me a No CD/DVD message without it.
Now I'll just wait and see if anyone solves the ready timing issue before attempting the flash again.
Post by: BlackFlag on April 14, 2005, 01:33:00 AM
QUOTE(CUxtopher @ Dec 18 2004, 06:20 AM)
i believe i was first ti find it!!!
well i sent x-s this info with pics last week when i opened up a new box, i guess they didnt feel the need to post it, also posted it on www.notworksafe.com
the drive sucks, has errors reading the free ncaa2005/topspin disc, put the disck in my phillips drive and everything is fine
cheap! ms!!
well i sent x-s this info with pics last week when i opened up a new box, i guess they didnt feel the need to post it, also posted it on www.notworksafe.com
the drive sucks, has errors reading the free ncaa2005/topspin disc, put the disck in my phillips drive and everything is fine
cheap! ms!!
thats weird cuz i just got one tonight and it loads faster than my samsung and it plays dvd R way better. It played my Top Spin/NCAA2005 just fine. I like it a lot already I think the only downside i can say about it is that it's noisy every time the laser moves you hear it.
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 14, 2005, 11:28:00 AM
QUOTE(Epic007 @ Apr 14 2005, 03:11 AM)
Although I did have to add the /r switch to your direction. It kept giving me a No CD/DVD message without it.
I tried the /r too,but if it isn't needed for normal reflash why use it.
Didin't know that you had a dud drive, otherwise /r would have come up at some time.
But its a nice thing to know, what went wrong with your flash?
Post by: Epic007 on April 14, 2005, 06:58:00 PM
Post by: Tiros on April 15, 2005, 08:58:00 AM
After I patched the DLD, pins 49 and 50 magically sprang to life!
All signals now behave EXACTLY like TrueBB photo's. (I have a scope)
Still testing. More info later.
Can anyone say if the "REAL" 8050 can read CDR?
Post by: truBB on April 15, 2005, 11:57:00 AM
Post by: Tiros on April 15, 2005, 12:02:00 PM
Does your stock 8050 read CDR?
Post by: sness54 on April 16, 2005, 04:35:00 AM
Thanks.
Post by: slipknots on April 16, 2005, 08:12:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 12 2005, 12:45 PM)
Indeed. What we really need is three flasher programs (or at least three functions -- maybe two or more functions could be integrated into one program)
a) flash an unmodified 8163B with the RIGHT 8050L firmware
B) reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
c) reflash an 8163B that was modified with the wrong 8050L to give it the correct firmware
a) flash an unmodified 8163B with the RIGHT 8050L firmware
B) reflash an 8163B modified with (any) 8050L firmware back to the 8163B firmware
c) reflash an 8163B that was modified with the wrong 8050L to give it the correct firmware
This is where i get lost. I have a unmodified 8163B PC drive .What do i need to do ? do i flash it with the correct flash (where do i get the correct one or should i say which one is correct?I have the one from DB on my PC I just havent used it yet) and then solder the wires to the correct points. Or do i need to flash it 3 times like the post is begining to lean towards. Can someone involved try and give a short post on exactly where we stand at this point. Look at it from a newbe point of view. If you sit and read the entire post we jump back and forth a few times and there was no real clearification on the correct and incorrect path to go. What is needed is one post to tie everything that has been done so far together and then proceed from there. :beer: :D
Post by: bourke on April 16, 2005, 08:34:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 15 2005, 02:57 PM)
The XBINS flasher is bogus, don't use it!
After I patched the DLD, pins 49 and 50 magically sprang to life!
All signals now behave EXACTLY like TrueBB photo's. (I have a scope)
Still testing. More info later.
Can anyone say if the "REAL" 8050 can read CDR?
After I patched the DLD, pins 49 and 50 magically sprang to life!
All signals now behave EXACTLY like TrueBB photo's. (I have a scope)
Still testing. More info later.
Can anyone say if the "REAL" 8050 can read CDR?
Where might one find a working flasher exe?
Post by: truBB on April 16, 2005, 12:20:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 15 2005, 09:01 AM)
@trubb
Does your stock 8050 read CDR?
Does your stock 8050 read CDR?
@Tiros
I just tried reading about 28cd-Rs, and only 2 worked. The two that worked are of the same media, Samsung 650MB/74min 12x guaranteed. Other samsungs of the same brand didn't work, so it seemed inconsistent. So I'd say: NO.
Current status of this project: -plz correct me if I'm wrong.
1. Semi-working 8163B. It works for some ppl if you solder per the french tutorial, aka plagued's post.
Issues:
Flashing it using the firmware GDR-8050L0012.EXE allows you to read original xbox games.
Also eVox displays "Init" when actually opening & when open. Seems to work fine for most ppl.
Solder points, HFM & Tray_in & Tray_out are not exact duplicates of the 8050B xdrive.
I just noticed that plague's post doesn't use the Tray_in & Tray_out signals that I'm using. uC pin 65 (aka TP055) is Tray_in for me. I tested this point, and it behaves the same as a 8050L xdrive, after flashing.
So basically, if you flash it with the above firmware, you'll get Tray_in, serial working, but thats it.
2. Fully working 8163B. Tiros & wenid both have fully working drives, using exact copies of the firmware or at least firmwares binaries that are the same.
The points used are the same from 8050L which are:
CODE
8163B End of Cable Description
Eject ============================= pin4 Eject
TP126 ====1k resistor ============= pin6 Ready (uC pin50)
TP055 ====1k resistor ============= pin7 Tray_in (uC pin65)
TP128 ====1k resistor ============= pin5 Tray_out (uC pin49)
End of Cable:(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/xbox_yellow_cable_end.jpg)
Issues:
Getting an original copy of the firmware onto the 8163B drive.
3. Restoring your now modified 8163B back to the original config so you can do it right. Read maximilian0017 post.
In the meantime...
ppl with a drive and are patient: Wait a few more days... there is a bright light at the end of this tunnel. Read issues item 2 above.
ppl with a drive and can't wait. You can flash it with the file from xbins, and follow plagues post. It may work for you & with the issues I outlined above.
ppl who have already flashed their drives. See item 3 above. Then wait till someone packages the right firmware.
Post by: Jetset Willy on April 16, 2005, 01:37:00 PM
Post by: sorcer1 on April 19, 2005, 02:52:00 AM
I don't care about read the originals, i prefer to read the CD-R!
What is the best solution? (same from 8050L, plaqued's post, ...)
Thank you.
Post by: truBB on April 19, 2005, 12:49:00 PM
QUOTE(Jetset Willy @ Apr 16 2005, 10:36 AM)
If i don´t care for the 8163B to read original games, can i then forget about the firmware flashing and just do the soldering? And will it then also be able to read cdr´s?
QUOTE(sorcer1 @ Apr 18 2005, 11:51 PM)
Me too! I don't care about read the originals, i prefer to read the CD-R!
What is the best solution? (same from 8050L, plaqued's post, ...) Thank you.
What is the best solution? (same from 8050L, plaqued's post, ...) Thank you.
Both of you need to read the tutorials section.
tut1
tut2
The firmware does more than just read originals. It allows the drive to behave the same as an orig xdrive; therefore, the status info from various dashboards will work. What I mean by this is that you can actually eject the drive, put in a disk and eVox will recognize it. Go ahead and use plagued post, see what happens...
Post by: sorcer1 on April 21, 2005, 09:40:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Apr 19 2005, 06:48 PM)
The firmware does more than just read originals. It allows the drive to behave the same as an orig xdrive; therefore, the status info from various dashboards will work. What I mean by this is that you can actually eject the drive, put in a disk and eVox will recognize it. Go ahead and use plagued post, see what happens...
But i prefer to read the CD-Rs than the originals games, and i want to keep goods infos in my dashboard when i insert a cd/dvd or i eject a cd/dvd!
Post by: slipknots on April 21, 2005, 06:17:00 PM
Post by: XBoXMan on April 21, 2005, 07:13:00 PM
Post by: skyhi on April 22, 2005, 10:56:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 12 2005, 12:45 PM)
If you're thinking you can just overwrite the mismatched block in the .exe we have with the correct block from the "real" firmware, I'm afraid you're out of luck. I've already tried that. I assume the .exe runs some sort of checksum on the ROM image.
It's been a long time since I played around with Hex editing but here's what I found:
There is some sort of cheksum - two of them in fact 16 bits wide.
The first one is at address 20A58 and the second one is at 20A5A
Once the mismatched block is over written with the correct code you must FIRST generate a Checksum-16 from addresses 20A98 through 6267F which will give you 'CF68'. This needs to be entered into addresses 20A5A and 20A5B.
Then another Checksum-16 needs to be generated from addresses 20A5A through 6267F which will give 'DAA7'. This needs to be entered into addresses 20A58 and 20A59
Happy editting! :beer:
Now onto better things - 16X's :P
This post has been edited by skyhi: Apr 22 2005, 06:01 PM
Post by: sness54 on April 22, 2005, 07:00:00 PM
Regards.
Post by: truBB on April 22, 2005, 11:17:00 PM
the replaced code is cut from 4f80 to 4f93 from file: HitachiLG8050.bin
CODE
4f80 to 4f93
50 64 60 E7 64 E1 A6 67 7E 64 00 74 7E 66 20 70 7E 66 00 70
50 64 60 E7 64 E1 A6 67 7E 64 00 74 7E 66 20 70 7E 66 00 70
Right?
Or did you replace all the filler, because I didn't get the same crc16. I got: C30D.
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 23, 2005, 01:06:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Apr 23 2005, 05:16 AM)
@skyhi,
the replaced code is cut from 4f80 to 4f93 from file: HitachiLG8050.bin
Right?
Or did you replace all the filler, because I didn't get the same crc16. I got: C30D.
the replaced code is cut from 4f80 to 4f93 from file: HitachiLG8050.bin
CODE
4f80 to 4f93
50 64 60 E7 64 E1 A6 67 7E 64 00 74 7E 66 20 70 7E 66 00 70
50 64 60 E7 64 E1 A6 67 7E 64 00 74 7E 66 20 70 7E 66 00 70
Right?
Or did you replace all the filler, because I didn't get the same crc16. I got: C30D.
You have to replace it including the filler, feom 4040h to 6040h
Works like a charm!!
Going to solder a little bit later tonight :D
Post by: Jetset Willy on April 23, 2005, 07:10:00 AM
How about the cdr issue, is the final word that it won´t read cdr´s?
Post by: TKramka on April 23, 2005, 07:49:00 AM
Post by: skyhi on April 23, 2005, 08:36:00 AM
Post by: TKramka on April 23, 2005, 08:41:00 AM
Post by: skyhi on April 23, 2005, 09:07:00 AM
My next step was going to be trying to dissassemble the differences to see if something jumps out - it's been a while since I dug this deep into code - about 18 years!
I've found a dissassembler here: http://www.8052.com/
This post has been edited by skyhi: Apr 23 2005, 04:15 PM
Post by: Tiros on April 23, 2005, 09:12:00 AM
Yes, I patched the DLD with checksum patch, similar to SkiHi, but I used the HP dos flasher.
DO NOT USE THE XBINS FLASHER IT IS NO GOOD!!
Even if you patch the DLD contained in the windows EXE, the drive will only partially flash and you will not get the "good" signals on the controller outputs. The drive WILL report 8050 after the win flash, but don't be fooled.
After a successful flash the drive activity LED becomes inverted, "ready" and other signals become active.
There are still a couple of issues with regard to RF/Servo controller. I recommend cutting 2 traces and adding jumper wire. I will try to get pics, @truebb you may want to compare pin 49 and 50 8050/8163 to see what I mean.
I have a small program that creates a DLD, using the 8050.bin file as input. This board does not seem to allow attachments.
Post by: Tiros on April 23, 2005, 09:41:00 AM
I was hoping it was the RF/Servo circuit difference, but it's starting to look more and more like firmware related. The drive doesn't even spin up disk if it is CDR. The laser pops on briefly as if it's "testing" the disk first. Than it just sits there.
Based on what has been going on here so far, I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for someone to patch the firmware for this problem.
AGAIN, DON'T USE THE WINDOWS FLASHER!
EVEN WITH THE DLD PATCH IT DOES NOT WORK!
Post by: Tiros on April 23, 2005, 09:42:00 AM
@SkyHi
BTW it's not an 8052....that would be too easy.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Apr 23 2005, 04:49 PM
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 23, 2005, 07:08:00 PM
QUOTE(truBB @ Apr 16 2005, 06:19 PM)
]2.[/color][/b] Fully working 8163B. Tiros & wenid both have fully working drives, using exact copies of the firmware or at least firmwares binaries that are the same.
The points used are the same from 8050L which are:
[code]
8163B End of Cable Description
Eject ============================= pin4 Eject
TP126 ====1k resistor ============= pin6 Ready (uC pin50)
TP055 ====1k resistor ============= pin7 Tray_in (uC pin65)
TP128 ====1k resistor ============= pin5 Tray_out (uC pin49)
The points used are the same from 8050L which are:
[code]
8163B End of Cable Description
Eject ============================= pin4 Eject
TP126 ====1k resistor ============= pin6 Ready (uC pin50)
TP055 ====1k resistor ============= pin7 Tray_in (uC pin65)
TP128 ====1k resistor ============= pin5 Tray_out (uC pin49)
I did the following to get to the same point as Wenid and Tiros
1. Used this wiring with 1k resistors on all wires(even eject)
2. Modded the windows flasher as per Skyhi's earlyer post
3. Extracted the dld file from the modified windows flasher(20a58-62680)(269352 bytes in explorer/properties)
4. Put it on the hp dosdisk i made(see earlyer post)overwriting the standard dld file
5. Flashed
After throwing this together i tested for a while and it seems to work 100%, ofcourse without cd/16x support(but the reading is quite fast anyway)
Maby this is interesting to the people who don't want to read origionals and want cd/16x support:
Tiros mentioned the led in front of the drive, i was looking at the same thing earlyer, it doesn't go out after the drive spins down, so that could be a much better alternate ready signal without problems with spindown.
After the mod above it came apparent to me that the origional and the fully modded 8163b do spindown, but they keep the ready signal high.
This hasn't been tested yet, but maby someone wants to take a look at it.
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 23, 2005, 07:13:00 PM
There is no mention of any code compliance or compability, so this is going to be a tough one to take apart.
Don't really think that hexedit is going to help here....
Post by: skyhi on April 23, 2005, 09:00:00 PM
Post by: Epic007 on April 23, 2005, 10:51:00 PM
What did you use the extract / create the DLD file. Where can I find that tool? I did some searching but haven't come up with anything yet.
Thanks
Post by: wenid on April 23, 2005, 11:49:00 PM
QUOTE(skyhi @ Apr 24 2005, 12:59 PM)
Perhaps what could be done is to patch in code from the 8163B and watch for changes - time consuming but should show something.
Worth a try if you're that keen on getting the functionality back, but getting CDR capability might mean losing the ability to read originals. I'm sure I read somewhere that a shortcoming in some other drive's firmware had been "introduced" deliberately to make room for the Xbox-original-reading code.
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 24, 2005, 02:17:00 AM
QUOTE(Epic007 @ Apr 24 2005, 04:21 AM)
@Tiros / Max
What did you use the extract / create the DLD file. Where can I find that tool? I did some searching but haven't come up with anything yet.
Thanks
What did you use the extract / create the DLD file. Where can I find that tool? I did some searching but haven't come up with anything yet.
Thanks
Just use any hex editor like Hexedit or Ultraedit
Copy the range i gave in my post and
Paste it into a new file(file-new) and save as 8050.dld or so...
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 24, 2005, 02:22:00 AM
QUOTE(skyhi @ Apr 24 2005, 02:59 AM)
Perhaps what could be done is to patch in code from the 8163B and watch for changes - time consuming but should show something.
Dvd/cd burners use a datafield to distinguish between different kind of cd/dvd's, it holds al the data to burn that type of cd/dvd.
Maby if the same kind of mechanism is used for reading it will work, otherwise you will probably have a dead drive very quicky..
The only way to know for sure is to try...
Post by: skyhi on April 24, 2005, 08:35:00 AM
One interesting thing Hex Workshop did show is that there is one 'extra' block of code in the 8050L that does not match up to the 8163B.
Post by: wenid on April 24, 2005, 11:29:00 AM
QUOTE(skyhi @ Apr 25 2005, 12:05 AM)
One interesting thing Hex Workshop did show is that there is one 'extra' block of code in the 8050L that does not match up to the 8163B.
So maybe (just maybe, mind you) it might be better to try and add the Xbox-original-reading code into the 8163 firmware rather than trying to get the CDR-reading and 16x code into the 8050 firmware, if you see what I mean...?
This post has been edited by wenid: Apr 24 2005, 06:38 PM
Post by: wenid on April 24, 2005, 12:28:00 PM
file with basic instructions) can now be found in the usual place under "/PC/drive firmware/firmware flashing tools" (not the .rar in "/PC/drive firmware/" -- that's just the raw ROM image).
By the way, I also confirmed that it seems to be fine to leave out the 1K resistors.
I'm pretty sure that we really are all done here now (with the possible exception of firmware patches). We have a flashing utility that works and loads the right firmware. With this firmware and the (corrected) points from post #520 you get a fully functional 8050L in the body of a 8163B.
This post has been edited by wenid: Apr 24 2005, 07:41 PM
Post by: Tiros on April 24, 2005, 01:21:00 PM
It is premature to say we "really are all done here now ".
There are still the issues with regard to RF/Servo signals.
In my unit, the current PCB connection for 49 and 50 go to RF/Servo chip. The "ready" signal in particular gets loaded to VOH of only 1.5 volts.
I recommend cutting those traces on thier way to the RF/Servo chip and connecting a jumper wire on the RF/Servo chip to exactly model the Xbox hardware.
It may work without it, but the ready signal is marginal and some boxes WILL have a problem with it.
Post by: Stitch_626 on April 24, 2005, 04:32:00 PM
Post by: wenid on April 24, 2005, 10:30:00 PM
QUOTE(Stitch_626 @ Apr 25 2005, 08:02 AM)
Hey guys, I sent a short tut to the tutorials section on this site weeks ago with ccts and exlainations it has not been posted on this tread.
Has it been posted anywhere at all? I don't see it in the tutorials section.
QUOTE
Don't ask for a copy I don't have it any more!
So if you don't have it and it's not posted in the tutorials section we can't access it, right? Seems a bit pointless to keep going on about it if this is the situation...? :blink:
Thanks for the info/confirmation all the same, though ;)
@Tiros,
Whatever. If people are having problems with the ready signal, then maybe something needs to be done. If, like me, they have a perfectly functional drive as-is then they're done. Always gotta nit-pick, eh? :P
This post has been edited by wenid: Apr 25 2005, 05:39 AM
Post by: sicilianosperto on April 25, 2005, 12:23:00 AM
You all have done a great job at getting this information.
However I have slight problems. I have an LG 8163B drive (december 2004 build) that I am trying to get to work.
What happened is my Samsung drive died, laser buggered up and disks also use to slip, and my attempt to fix it didn't go according to plans.
Well after much research i went out and bought the lg 8163B, because that was the closest i could get to a model where a tutorial was made on xbox-scene. (for the lg 8160 )
So I did the NAND gate setup as done in that particular tutorial. Basically, CD-r's would read, and DVD movies would read in media center, but I couldn't get copied games to work.
so i pulled that setup apart and tried to do some of the mods that have been displayed here.
Unfortunately I can't get any of them to work, no matter what I do. I mean, the eject function works etc, but the tray in tray out functions don't seem to work, and i can't get any media to be recognised at all. So what is the go? I don't wanna flash the drive because I have over 80 cd-r's that i used to use in my xbox. Using the NAND gate option, these worked (as i already mentioned), but i couldn't get copied games to work.
I think someone really needs to understand why all this is going on, because I spent over 10 hours trying to work this out, which is probably nothing compared to the rest of you guys, but it's driving me insane. I'm very tempted to go blow some more money (of which i don't have) to buy an original samsung drive and stick it in. I'm in second year micro-electronics at uni, so i'm not a noob, but I don't have all the time in the world to sort this out. oh and yes i read every single page in this thread. :blink:
Can someone plz get a detailed tute up that will work. i beg u all. LOL
Post by: Tiros on April 25, 2005, 08:51:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 25 2005, 03:00 AM)
@Tiros,
Whatever. If people are having problems with the ready signal, then maybe something needs to be done. If, like me, they have a perfectly functional drive as-is then they're done. Always gotta nit-pick, eh? :P
Whatever. If people are having problems with the ready signal, then maybe something needs to be done. If, like me, they have a perfectly functional drive as-is then they're done. Always gotta nit-pick, eh? :P
Why don't YOU go back to using your OpAmp then? :P
You said you were going to stay out of the thread, but here you are.
You said my theory regarding a no chip hack, was wrong on so many levels you couldn't even explain them all, but here WE are.
While you were "punishing" the board by staying away, your OpAmp kludge was been completely eliminanted, without your help. JUST LIKE I SAID! And again with or without your help, the rest of the issues will be COMPLETELY addressed. They are trivial, 2 cut's and a jumper. If you are satisfied, as you were with your OpAmp, good for you, enjoy your incompetently hacked drive!
This post has been edited by Tiros: Apr 25 2005, 03:52 PM
Post by: wenid on April 25, 2005, 11:46:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 12:21 AM)
Why don't YOU go back to using your OpAmp then? :P
You said you were going to stay out of the thread, but here you are.
...blah, blah, blah... same old holier than thou crap...
You said you were going to stay out of the thread, but here you are.
...blah, blah, blah... same old holier than thou crap...
I'll give you this much: At least you're persistent in your pointless, arrogant stupidity. I've put forward my point of view on all of this repeatedly. I can't stop you from choosing to be a dickhead about it instead of accepting other people's points of view, so why bother trying?
Post by: Tiros on April 25, 2005, 12:41:00 PM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 25 2005, 04:16 PM)
I'll give you this much: At least you're persistent in your pointless, arrogant stupidity. I've put forward my point of view on all of this repeatedly. I can't stop you from choosing to be a dickhead about it instead of accepting other people's points of view, so why bother trying?
If, like me, they have a perfectly functional drive as-is then they're done. Always gotta nit-pick, eh?
If, like me, they have a perfectly functional drive as-is then they're done. Always gotta nit-pick, eh?
This all started because YOU couldn't accept the point of view that your methods were too complicated/incorrect/dangerous. You lashed out at me and other members in public and to me in PM, all the while NEVER making a TECHNICAL point or elaborating on what was wrong with my theory. My "ridiculous theories that are wrong on so many levels" were proven to be 100% correct. You were proven to be 100% wrong. Thank goodness for my "pointless arrogant stupidity" or everyone would be following your half ass plans instead of the clean hack we have now. (developed in spite of/without you!)
You call it "nit-picking" I call it engineering. I call it doing it right.
Since your drive is perfectly functional "as-is" than why do you persue this thread?
Why did you switch from your bullshit OpAmp circuit to this much easier cleaner hack? I mean, your drive was perfectly functional "as-is"........
If your satisfied, good for you. The rest of us will continue to develop a "proper" fix for this unit whether YOU think it is needed or not.
Later I will post what I know about the RF/Servo issue. It's not a big deal. Just 2 cuts and a jumper. Sure beats an OpAmp! :P
This post has been edited by Tiros: Apr 25 2005, 07:44 PM
Post by: wenid on April 25, 2005, 07:51:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
This all started because YOU couldn't accept the point of view that your methods were too complicated/incorrect/dangerous.
Whatever you say, Tiros. Our PM exchange has already convinced me there's no point arguing with you. You're so convinced that you're so right and so much better than everyone else that you just ignore all the evidence to the contrary anyway.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
You lashed out at me and other members in public
I admit I got upset and frustrated by some of the posts on the board that were either wrong or seemed to be going off on a tangent and I'm sorry if I offended anyone else. However, you're the ONLY one who reacted like this.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
and to me in PM
Because this crap doesn't belong on the board. No-one else is interested in your ridiculous self-righteous attempts to put me down just for the sake of your own ego.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
all the while NEVER making a TECHNICAL point or elaborating on what was wrong with my theory. My "ridiculous theories that are wrong on so many levels" were proven to be 100% correct.
How dumb are you? You yourself pointed out a case-in-point example of the central flaw in your orginal theory with this business about the ready signal.
QUOTE
You were proven to be 100% wrong.Thank goodness for my "pointless arrogant stupidity" or everyone would be following your half ass plans instead of the clean hack we have now. (developed in spite of/without you!)
Hmmm.... Let's see. Who extracted the firmware? Who was it that posted what ultimately turned out to be the correct points (admittedly with one small correction -- nobody's perfect)? Who was it who discovered that the firmware in the original flashing utility didn't match the CORRECT firmware inmy WORKING drive? Who was who submitted all the WORKING code and ROM images to xbins?
On the other hand we have your posts. Almost every one of them suggests something that had already been suggested by someone else first, but now you want to claim that you've made some sort of valuable contribution ...? :blink:
Post by: wenid on April 25, 2005, 07:26:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
You call it "nit-picking" I call it engineering.
Oh, I see. So all engineers find it necessary to preface their forum posts with an attack on someone else, do they?
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
I call it doing it right.
Except that you don't post any useful information on how to actually DO anything. For exmaple, in this latest case it was Stitch_626 who provided the really useful post.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
Since your drive is perfectly functional "as-is" than why do you persue this thread?
If you must know it's just because I haven't got around to turning off the email notifications for it, so I get emails saying there's been a new posting and I just have a look out of curiosity. Alright? Any other habits of mine you want to call into question for no apparent reason?
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
Why did you switch from your bullshit OpAmp circuit to this much easier cleaner hack?
Duh! I dunno, Fred, why do sumping easy dat works better instead of sumping harder?
As I tried to explain to you about a thousand times in that PM exchange, I was ALWAYS about finding a better/easier/quicker way of doing the mod. It's only you that grimly sticks to your guns despite all evidence that you've made a mistake.
And before you keep on with this implication that I chose "YOUR" better way over "MY" worse way, you might like to remember that NONE of your posts so far have actually advanced anything here. All the work I've done in bringing this forward is based on ideas put forward by other people FIRST and occasionally re-hashed by you. At best, you've served as a reminder of ideas that might have been temporarily forgotten about.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
I mean, your drive was perfectly functional "as-is"........
I never made that claim at that time. I thought you were all about getting it right. You got it wrong this time.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
If your satisfied, good for you. The rest of us will continue to develop a "proper" fix for this unit whether YOU think it is needed or not.
What "rest of us"? Stitch_626 has already explained what needs to be done.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 26 2005, 04:11 AM)
Later I will post what I know about the RF/Servo issue. It's not a big deal. Just 2 cuts and a jumper. Sure beats an OpAmp! :P
Yes it does. So what? You really are pathetic.
I certainly have no interest in continuing this, particularly as, once again, you don't really seem to have anything new to say. I'm sure you'll post a follow-up since your kind always has to have the last word, even (especially?) when they don't really have anything new to say. I won't respond unless there IS something new in it. I had enough of repeating myself in an attempt to get through your thick skin and/or skull in our PM exchange.
Post by: skyhi on April 25, 2005, 09:49:00 PM
Post by: sorcer1 on April 26, 2005, 03:21:00 AM
we need both of you to make a firmware for cdr and originals readings !
:luv:
Post by: Cio on April 26, 2005, 04:09:00 AM
so more :luv: :beer: :popcorn:
And no i aint gay :P
Post by: sicilianosperto on April 26, 2005, 04:56:00 AM
QUOTE(sorcer1 @ Apr 26 2005, 06:20 PM)
we need both of you to make a firmware for cdr and originals readings !
:luv:
I got my drive working in the XBox. Mine plays originals, but not cd-r's. This is flashed with the 8050L firmware. Does no one else's play originals?
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on April 26, 2005, 05:30:00 AM
is there any tut's been written on this baby yet?
Post by: jgranie on April 26, 2005, 06:41:00 AM
QUOTE(sorcer1 @ Apr 26 2005, 10:20 AM)
we need both of you to make a firmware for cdr and originals readings !
Yeah, You did a great job until now. The most important is not to determine what is the best method nor who worked harder.
We understand that it is an important personal investment so thx to anyone who helps.
Post by: bourke on April 26, 2005, 08:21:00 AM
Post by: Jinxter on April 26, 2005, 08:29:00 AM
Now I had a thought which is rare but does happen occassionally and normally these are quite good. This thought was originally about the differences between the old and new Samsung drives ... mechanically these don't appear that different, but one reads CDR and the other doesn't.
So if we combine this thought with the fact that the 8163B when a PC drive reads CD, but when flashed with 8050 firmware doesn't, I would make the assumption that something has been changed on the firmware, wouldn't you?
... now taking this a step further what if the same changes has been made in the firmware for the Samsung ... if we directly compared the 2 Samsung firmwares then we see what the differences were wouldn't we? and what has specific changes have made the Samsungs stop reading CDRs, this would be kinda similar within the firmware of the 8050 I would think.
Following this though also as a test I intend to flash a new Samsung with the old Samsung firmware just to see if my theory holds any water (and these drives start reading CDRs!), I'll get back on this to let you know what happens.
What do you guys thing of this logically if a little hopeful thinking?
Cheers
Jinxter
Post by: Stitch_626 on April 26, 2005, 09:16:00 AM
It's not a simple comparision between two firmwares. Take for example 605b and 616f f/w. Both have 1megabit chips but the code is vastly different. What I have determined is, both have been written in "C". Therfore, when they are compliled the code becomes quite different despite the fact "C" programs are possibly similar. For the lg drive I suspect it would be no different one would need to write a "C" decompiler which is fairly difficult, so as to make any sense of the code.
:beer:
Post by: Jinxter on April 26, 2005, 09:53:00 AM
Yeah I understand that, but I'm not talking about a comparrison of the firmware on a Samsung a PC 616 and an Xbox 605 ... instead I'm refering to the possible differences in the firmware of the original Xbox Samsung drive that was manunfactured up to about April 04, and the newer Hitachi/Samsung drives from August 04 ... the newer Hitachi/Samsungs despite looking indentical mechanically even down to the lense do not read CDRs, I was hypothesising that this was down to a slightly altered firmware and therefore a direct comparisson of the firmware from the old Smasung drive (that does read CDR) and the newer firmware (that doesn't read CDR) may lead to a better understanding of what has been altered in the 8050 compared to the 8163b to make it stop reading CDR, i.e. a clearly denoted differnet block of code. That way we'd have a block of code in a kind of before and after comparrible state (if you see what I mean - this block allows CDR reading this newer block dosen't).
As I say just a thought but I'll have a go extracting the firmware from a newer Samsung and then flash the new Samsung DVD drive with an older firmware to see if this will enable CDR reading as a test of this hypothesis.
Cheers
Jinxter
Post by: Tiros on April 26, 2005, 10:20:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 26 2005, 12:25 AM)
It's only you that grimly sticks to your guns despite all evidence that you've made a mistake.
This is what wenid didn't like:
My Suggestion
And this is his reply:
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 26 2005, 12:25 AM)
Your "logic" in this posting is seriously and fairly obviously flawed in several ways. I wonder how long it will take you to work it out...? I'm tempted to post an explanation, but I can just imagine where that will lead. I suppose the question is whether the potential benefit to the project is worth it. What do you think?
Please identify MY mistake, other than trying to educate you.
I was not the only one you attacked when your ideas began to fall apart and you threw your little temper tantrum.
Why don't you post that explanation of how my logic is so "seriously and obviously flawed" :)
Post by: Jinxter on April 26, 2005, 10:58:00 AM
this is now way off topic, and if you want to carry on flaming each other please do so via PM or any other means, don't impose it on this thread, it's not big or clever to see two guys who advance this mod behaving like ill tempered little bratts!
PLEASE GUYS BOTH ENOUGH!
Jinxter
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 26, 2005, 11:10:00 AM
It looks like you arent going to resolve this any time soon, so please let it be.
We're all trying to get to the same goal, get this drive working with origionals/cdr's and at 16X without it blowing up in our face :ph34r: and/or not working half of the time :boring: .
You both have contributed to the cause, even thinking about it and replying with any info will help, maby it will spring somebody else into doing something.
So if you are offended by anyone just ignore them and post your findings so we can all close this thread at some time soon with a big smile :D (and for some maby a little profit(no, not me))
We have to keep rolling and use the momentum we have to get to the place we want to be.
And everyone can have a different idea, thats a good thing, so we can learn from eachother.
Wenid likes opamps and flashreaders, Tiros likes wires, i like resistors(and my wife:-) and Skyhi likes hexedit, ....(including everybody here).... etc etc looks like a good team to me. :beer:
Tiros and Stitch 626, is there any possiblity to get some more info/pictures etc on the Servo bit, there are enough people here to prove/disprove your findings.
(i'm really interested in this info but i do not have a 8050 to compare it to)
So come on, lets make this work. B)
This post has been edited by maximilian0017: Apr 26 2005, 06:11 PM
Post by: Tiros on April 26, 2005, 11:38:00 AM
QUOTE(Jinxter @ Apr 26 2005, 03:57 PM)
Sorry Tiros, not trying to be clever but ....
PLEASE GUYS BOTH ENOUGH!
Jinxter
PLEASE GUYS BOTH ENOUGH!
Jinxter
Your right jinx,
I just can't control myself when someone bashes my ideas without substantiation.
It pisses me off that the guy argued, ridiculed and belittled my theories all along. Now that I have proven myself correct, he comes along like he invented the theory, and knew it all along. He proclaims the project "finished" and says that I didn't contribute anything. Where was he when the no chip version was being worked on, what did he contribute? NOTHING! He was busy crying at home because he didn't want other kids playing in his sandbox.
Post by: menelik on April 26, 2005, 12:07:00 PM
at this moment i dont see a good reason to waste more time into this mod as the most important functions work. sure, some got really interested into this and try to get this work with programs like the xecuter os etc., but it isnt worth to flame each other. just my quick opinion.
Post by: mrkaylor on April 26, 2005, 02:58:00 PM
I was trying to do this from WinXP Pro. Does it need to be done from dos? Both drives had a manufactures date of January 2005 on them and the current ROM Version is 0L23.
You can see from the output below that I tryed both with and without the /r switch.
C:\Hitachi\8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED>SF8163 8050L.dld 3 /f /c /p /o
Drive Firmware Update Utility Rev. 3.21c
© 2001,2002 Hitachi-LG Data Storage, Inc.
Download file information:
File Name :8050L.dld
Vendor ID :HL-DL-ST
Product ID :DVD-ROM GDR8163B
Firmware Revision :0L23
No CD/DVD drive.(2)
C:\Hitachi\8050L_~1>SF8163 8050L.dld 3 /f /c /p /o /r
Drive Firmware Update Utility Rev. 3.21c
© 2001,2002 Hitachi-LG Data Storage, Inc.
<><><><><> Recovery Mode <><><><><>
Download file information:
File Name :8050L.dld
Vendor ID :HL-DL-ST
Product ID :DVD-ROM GDR8163B
Firmware Revision :0L23
Updating drive firmware now!
Drive responds with an error.
Please check the drive and re-start again.
C:\Hitachi\8050L_~1>
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 26, 2005, 03:22:00 PM
QUOTE(Stitch_626 @ Apr 24 2005, 10:02 PM)
Your problem with the servo was explained!
Ok, if i understand correctly you are reffering to the VOH of the ready signal?, or is there another reason to do this modification?
I haven't been able to find any documentation on that an22023 chip, do you have any idea what these two traces are used for in the origional drive?(cdr support?!?)
After this mod it still isn't exactly the same....
Post by: sness54 on April 26, 2005, 05:35:00 PM
Post by: wenid on April 26, 2005, 06:07:00 PM
@Jinxter: Nice idea. Unfortunately the old and new Samsung drives are not actually that similar. They do both use MediaTek chipsets, but the 605B uses the MT1329E controller chip (same as in the SD616T/F), while the 605F uses a newer controller chip (can't remember the number and I don't have one handy to look at -- I think it's the same one as in the SD616Q and some of the SD816's). They also use different laser pickups. Now I'm by no means an expert on this stuff, but I suspect these differences are enough that the 605F firmware won't work in a 605B, and vice versa.
@mrkaylor: Yes, you are supposed to run SF8163.EXE in DOS (although it may work under Windoze -- I haven't tried that myself). The original HP distribution of this stuff comes as a package that creates a boot disc for you.
Now then. Who am I forgetting? Oh yes.
Since you insist on going on and on about it I suppose I'd better post at least a brief explanation of what I think was wrong with your theory, but I expect this will just lead to more nonsense.
QUOTE(Tiros @ Mar 21 2005)
Trace the original yellow xbox drive wire signals directly to the CPU I/O pin where they are connected. Maybe they are directly connected to switch, but keep following circuit to the control CPU.
And what if there had been other circuitry effecting the signal along the way? Any of these signals could easily have been inverted on one drive and not the other or been "calculated" from multiple signals at the controller. It is only pure luck that they weren't.
QUOTE
The polarity has to be right at that point or control CPU will be confused.
Obviously the polarity has to be right, or at least the right polarity for the controller. That polarity need not match the polarity, or even the timing, expected by the Xbox, PC, or even other parts of the drive's own circuitry (if there was an inverter or whatever between the controller and this other circuitry). It need not even have been a simple, single signal at the controller.
Like I said, it's only luck that things worked out well for us. You were lucky, not "right".
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 26, 2005, 06:21:00 PM
QUOTE(mrkaylor @ Apr 26 2005, 08:57 PM)
I was trying to do this from WinXP Pro. Does it need to be done from dos?
I think so, the dos utility doesn't ask for permission to write to the drive like the windows flasher would, so winXP would most probably disturb the process.
Post by: bourke on April 26, 2005, 07:37:00 PM
=========================================
Speed.......kbytes/sec......hex..............bytes/sec...........hex
=========================================
4X............5400?............1518............5529600............546000
4X............5500?............157C............5632000............55F000
=========================================
I.e. I am assuming that somewhere in the firmware lies the hard coded drive speed limit (at 4X) - though I am not sure whether 4X is 5400kb/sec or 5500kb/sec?
Search for the hex values I think?
If you find one of those four hex values then try replacing it with the respective value here:
=========================================
Speed.......kbytes/sec......hex..............bytes/sec...........hex
=========================================
4X............21600............5460............22118400..........1518000
=========================================
cheers,
Bourkie
This post has been edited by bourke: Apr 27 2005, 02:47 AM
Post by: Stitch_626 on April 26, 2005, 07:41:00 PM
QUOTE(Jinxter @ Apr 27 2005, 01:52 AM)
HI,
Yeah I understand that, but I'm not talking about a comparrison of the firmware on a Samsung a PC 616 and an Xbox 605 ... instead I'm refering to the possible differences in the firmware of the original Xbox Samsung drive that was manunfactured up to about April 04, and the newer Hitachi/Samsung drives from August 04 ... the newer Hitachi/Samsungs despite looking indentical mechanically even down to the lense do not read CDRs, I was hypothesising that this was down to a slightly altered firmware and therefore a direct comparisson of the firmware from the old Smasung drive (that does read CDR) and the newer firmware (that doesn't read CDR) may lead to a better understanding of what has been altered in the 8050 compared to the 8163b to make it stop reading CDR, i.e. a clearly denoted differnet block of code. That way we'd have a block of code in a kind of before and after comparrible state (if you see what I mean - this block allows CDR reading this newer block dosen't).
As I say just a thought but I'll have a go extracting the firmware from a newer Samsung and then flash the new Samsung DVD drive with an older firmware to see if this will enable CDR reading as a test of this hypothesis.
Cheers
Jinxter
Yeah I understand that, but I'm not talking about a comparrison of the firmware on a Samsung a PC 616 and an Xbox 605 ... instead I'm refering to the possible differences in the firmware of the original Xbox Samsung drive that was manunfactured up to about April 04, and the newer Hitachi/Samsung drives from August 04 ... the newer Hitachi/Samsungs despite looking indentical mechanically even down to the lense do not read CDRs, I was hypothesising that this was down to a slightly altered firmware and therefore a direct comparisson of the firmware from the old Smasung drive (that does read CDR) and the newer firmware (that doesn't read CDR) may lead to a better understanding of what has been altered in the 8050 compared to the 8163b to make it stop reading CDR, i.e. a clearly denoted differnet block of code. That way we'd have a block of code in a kind of before and after comparrible state (if you see what I mean - this block allows CDR reading this newer block dosen't).
As I say just a thought but I'll have a go extracting the firmware from a newer Samsung and then flash the new Samsung DVD drive with an older firmware to see if this will enable CDR reading as a test of this hypothesis.
Cheers
Jinxter
Sorry to shoot your hypothesis 605b & 605f f/w are very different. My comment still stands. They are written in "C" so the code created by the complier as a result it is difficult to id the important code differences.
Post by: Stitch_626 on April 26, 2005, 07:47:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Apr 27 2005, 07:21 AM)
Ok, if i understand correctly you are reffering to the VOH of the ready signal?, or is there another reason to do this modification?
I haven't been able to find any documentation on that an22023 chip, do you have any idea what these two traces are used for in the origional drive?(cdr support?!?)
After this mod it still isn't exactly the same....
I haven't been able to find any documentation on that an22023 chip, do you have any idea what these two traces are used for in the origional drive?(cdr support?!?)
After this mod it still isn't exactly the same....
I just did a circuit trace with the xbox lg drive gdr8163b for the pc. This is one of the important hardware differences that were found.
Post by: bourke on April 27, 2005, 04:01:00 AM
QUOTE(bourke @ Apr 27 2005, 01:36 AM)
4X............21600............5460............22118400..........1518000
Sorry that should have read '16X' not '4X':
16X............21600............5460............22118400..........1518000
Post by: bourke on April 27, 2005, 07:06:00 AM
What is the real number?
Post by: menelik on April 27, 2005, 10:46:00 AM
Post by: RMV on April 27, 2005, 10:55:00 AM
4X = 4 x 1353 = 5412 KB/s (1524 in HEX)
16X = 21648 KB/s ( 5490 in HEX)
Post by: Tiros on April 27, 2005, 11:23:00 AM
QUOTE(wenid @ Apr 26 2005, 11:06 PM)
Now then. Who am I forgetting? Oh yes.
Since you insist on going on and on about it I suppose I'd better post at least a brief explanation of what I think was wrong with your theory, but I expect this will just lead to more nonsense.
And what if there had been other circuitry effecting the signal along the way? Any of these signals could easily have been inverted on one drive and not the other or been "calculated" from multiple signals at the controller. It is only pure luck that they weren't.
Obviously the polarity has to be right, or at least the right polarity for the controller. That polarity need not match the polarity, or even the timing, expected by the Xbox, PC, or even other parts of the drive's own circuitry (if there was an inverter or whatever between the controller and this other circuitry). It need not even have been a simple, single signal at the controller.
Like I said, it's only luck that things worked out well for us. You were lucky, not "right".
Since you insist on going on and on about it I suppose I'd better post at least a brief explanation of what I think was wrong with your theory, but I expect this will just lead to more nonsense.
And what if there had been other circuitry effecting the signal along the way? Any of these signals could easily have been inverted on one drive and not the other or been "calculated" from multiple signals at the controller. It is only pure luck that they weren't.
Obviously the polarity has to be right, or at least the right polarity for the controller. That polarity need not match the polarity, or even the timing, expected by the Xbox, PC, or even other parts of the drive's own circuitry (if there was an inverter or whatever between the controller and this other circuitry). It need not even have been a simple, single signal at the controller.
Like I said, it's only luck that things worked out well for us. You were lucky, not "right".
Wrong again, Guido.
It could NOT have been "easily inverted from one drive and not the other"
By virtue of the fact that the the xfirmware runs at all in unmodified drive, the internal polarities, signals, timing MUST match or the controller would be confused.
It DID have to be "a simple single pin on the controller" since it was on the original xdrive. and after the flash, thats what you have.
That's what I said in my post. I never waivered from this position. It was not a guess. I was right.
You were both "Unlucky" and WRONG!
The xbox Tray signals are SYNTHESIZED by the CPU firmware, that's why using the non-xbox points was never a good idea. That's also why the timing for the xbox is also guaranteed. Yes there are "signals along the way" specifically the RF/Servo 49 and 50. It was trivial to mod the board to look exactly like xdrive, guaranteeing the xfirmware will work. This is the method I pursued and I suceeded. You attempted to go this way, failed, pursued alternates and failed again.
If you would have explained your problems with my theory earlier, instead of throwing a temper tantrum, I could have corrected you then, and you could have avoided all the time you wasted on the OpAmp.
Luck had nothing to do with the no chip hack. It was luck that I came along and derailed your OpAmp method. :)
Speaking of luck,
There is no way you guys are gonna patch this firmware using just a hex editor. You need to use a disassembler for the target CPU. The fact that it is written in C has nothing to do with encryption, or if the program can be disassemled. I don't know how this "encryption" rumor got started anyway. Its just straight machine code. Posting hex strings that equate to drive speeds is not helpful. Just like the hardware problem, it is not going to be hacked using "shoot from the hip" technology. It has to be done right. It has to be disassembled. I am fluent in assembler for several different microcontrollers. Is there anyone else here who is prepared to attack this problem without Hexedit?
This post has been edited by Tiros: Apr 27 2005, 06:28 PM
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 27, 2005, 11:46:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 27 2005, 05:22 PM)
Is there anyone else here who is prepared to attack this problem without Hexedit?
The chance of getting any improvement with only the help of Hexedit is close to nothing, it's a great program but not for this.
And i think you are right on the encryption bit too(at least when they didn't use a mask in the processor), just look at the two firmwares and it's obvious that they are almost the same.
At this time i'm researching something that may prove to be a problem later but i need to dissasemble the firmware first too.
Tiros, did you have any success in dissasembeling the firmware?, at this time i haven't found a program and/or plugin to dissasemble the bin file.
I'm a beginner at this but i want to try with the time i have, and many hands make light work.
This post has been edited by maximilian0017: Apr 27 2005, 06:50 PM
Post by: skyhi on April 27, 2005, 03:00:00 PM
The outputs look beleivable :)
Post by: skyhi on April 27, 2005, 05:40:00 PM
I've done both the 8050L drive image and the 8163B but the output files are too big to post ~ 5MB's each.
Post by: bourke on April 27, 2005, 06:32:00 PM
cheers,
Bourkie
Post by: jaskm on April 27, 2005, 11:54:00 PM
Post by: Janniz on April 28, 2005, 05:04:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 27 2005, 05:22 PM)
You need to use a disassembler for the target CPU. The fact that it is written in C has nothing to do with encryption, or if the program can be disassemled. I don't know how this "encryption" rumor got started anyway. Its just straight machine code.
To my knowledge the firmware is scrambled... after decryption you have a plain image and you can correctly disassemble it using (for example) objdump from Linux or any other mn103 disassembler...
The dld file is composed by an header a scrambled rom image and plain flashing code.
HTH
Janniz
Post by: wenid on April 28, 2005, 05:31:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 28 2005, 03:22 AM)
Wrong again, Guido.
Why is it that you find it necessary to preface every post with some pathetic attempt at being insulting? You must have some serious insecurity issues, I guess.
Regarding the rest of your latest babble: hindsight is a beautiful thing, isn't it? Between the combination of you
{a}apparently not fully understanding what I was getting at (for which I'm prepared to accept at least some of the blame) and
{b} conveniently rearranging the order of events by implying certain things were known/understood in a different order to what really happened,
you've ALMOST come up with a convincing argument, except that it doesn't quite hang together. But really, WHO CARES ANYMORE?!? FFS!
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on April 28, 2005, 05:44:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrari_rulz_02 @ Apr 26 2005, 09:29 PM)
ok, can we get a recap post here to say whats been acheived?
is there any tut's been written on this baby yet?
is there any tut's been written on this baby yet?
bump this
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 28, 2005, 09:54:00 AM
QUOTE(jaskm @ Apr 28 2005, 05:53 AM)
hi i just swapped my thompson for a hitachi (yeah i shoulda done a lil research before i did it but oops) and all of a sudden it stopped workin.
Are you sure it's not something else?, a couple of questions:
1. Did it work in the beginning with this x-box?
2. Did you do something to it like emergency eject or something?
3. Does it do anything now?, like eject
4. In what country are you located?
But maby this is something for the general hw and not for this thread
Post by: Tiros on April 28, 2005, 12:41:00 PM
QUOTE(skyhi @ Apr 27 2005, 07:59 PM)
The outputs look beleivable :)
Why do you say this?
It doesn't look like 8051 code to me.
QUOTE(jannizi @ Apr 27 2005, 07:59 PM)
To my knowledge the firmware is scrambled... after decryption you have a plain image and you can correctly disassemble it using (for example) objdump from Linux or any other mn103 disassembler...
The dld file is composed by an header a scrambled rom image and plain flashing code.
The dld file is composed by an header a scrambled rom image and plain flashing code.
Sorry, but I think you are wrong.
The DLD binary portion is NOT encrypted.
The firmware is not "encrypted" in the rom.
It is not 8051 or 8048 processor.
Hexedit will not fix this problem.
Doesn't anyone here know anything assembler (not hex editing)?
Post by: skyhi on April 28, 2005, 01:09:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 28 2005, 06:40 PM)
Why do you say this?
It doesn't look like 8051 code to me.
It doesn't look like 8051 code to me.
Just try disassembling the code as 8051 and see what you think.
To me it looks quite clean - there's no way it would disassemble this cleanly if it was the wrong code.
Post by: Jetset Willy on April 28, 2005, 01:26:00 PM
nut: "http://www.hardstore.com/default.asp?idA=70" Can´t say for sure tough, since i don´t speak italian..
Post by: maximilian0017 on April 28, 2005, 03:09:00 PM
QUOTE(Jetset Willy @ Apr 28 2005, 07:25 PM)
I did some googleing, looks like someone with commersial interests already cracked the
nut: "http://www.hardstore.com/default.asp?idA=70" Can´t say for sure tough, since i don´t speak italian..
nut: "http://www.hardstore.com/default.asp?idA=70" Can´t say for sure tough, since i don´t speak italian..
Nope, they are just trtying to sell the original black ones, no mention of cdr support AFTER flashing
It will probably be impossible to use an am2(nm102000) disasembler on the am3 set would it?, the problem being that the am3 seris is 32bit compaired to the 16 bits of the am2 series.
8051 is an 8 bit processor.....
The problem is finding a nm103 disassembler that runs on windows(at least that's it for me)
Maby someone with linux can run binutils on both firmwares and upload it to xbins, that would be a great help!!!
Post by: Tiros on April 28, 2005, 06:10:00 PM
QUOTE(bourke @ Apr 27 2005, 11:31 PM)
Obviously I meant to look for a hard-coded drive speed value in the _decompiled_ firmware images.
cheers,
Bourkie
cheers,
Bourkie
Obviously you don't know shit from apple butter about how to fix this problem.
cheers,
Tiros
Post by: Tiros on April 28, 2005, 06:33:00 PM
QUOTE(skyhi @ Apr 28 2005, 06:08 PM)
Just try disassembling the code as 8051 and see what you think.
To me it looks quite clean - there's no way it would disassemble this cleanly if it was the wrong code.
To me it looks quite clean - there's no way it would disassemble this cleanly if it was the wrong code.
Already did that before my post ;)
Just glancing at the disassembly, there are several obvious, serious problems with it being 8051 code. Why don't you take another look and report back your findings. If anyone else knows why it can't be 8051, make a reply.
Post by: Janniz on April 29, 2005, 02:46:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 28 2005, 06:40 PM)
Sorry, but I think you are wrong.
The DLD binary portion is NOT encrypted.
The firmware is not "encrypted" in the rom.
The DLD binary portion is NOT encrypted.
The firmware is not "encrypted" in the rom.
I'm pretty sure that it is scrambled...
Look at the filler... in the DLD we have a sequence of
0x08 0x99 0x9B 0x9F
in the plain rom image it's all filled with 0xFF
The decripted version has some plain text string embedded (Eg: HL-DT-STDVD-ROM
at positions 0x20BA, 0x6000, 0x3c8ac)
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 28 2005, 06:40 PM)
It is not 8051 or 8048 processor.
Hexedit will not fix this problem.
Hexedit will not fix this problem.
You're right... I've never said that it's 8051 or someother proc.... I've said that any mn103 disassembler should work onto PLAIN descrambled firmware image...
And when I say MN103 I mean Panasonic MN103 series or if you prefer Matsushita MN103 or Matsushita AM33 that are in fact the same 32 bit processor !
I looked at this firmware some time ago... and I like collect infos before speaking....
You're also right when you speak in terms of hexediting... IMHO hexediting would not help in this case....
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 28 2005, 06:40 PM)
Doesn't anyone here know anything assembler (not hex editing)?
bump...
See ya
Janniz
Post by: bourke on April 29, 2005, 05:09:00 AM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 29 2005, 12:09 AM)
Obviously you don't know shit from apple butter about how to fix this problem.
cheers,
Tiros
cheers,
Tiros
Everyone here knows that you have nothing useful to contribute Tiros, you prove time and time again that you are nothing more than a conceited hypocrite blessed with the mental maturity of a pre-schooler.
Why don't you find somewhere far away to wallow in your own self pity. Are you having marital troubles again?
Post by: Stitch_626 on April 29, 2005, 05:42:00 AM
QUOTE(skyhi @ Apr 28 2005, 06:59 AM)
I have disassembled the two images completely using an 8051 disassembler found here http://pioneerdvd.rpc1.org/disWin32.zip
The outputs look beleivable :)
The outputs look beleivable :)
I will be very surprised the cpu is an 8051 core
Post by: Tiros on April 29, 2005, 12:45:00 PM
QUOTE(bourke @ Apr 29 2005, 10:08 AM)
Everyone here knows that you have nothing useful to contribute Tiros, you prove time and time again that you are nothing more than a conceited hypocrite blessed with the mental maturity of a pre-schooler.
Why don't you find somewhere far away to wallow in your own self pity. Are you having marital troubles again?
Why don't you find somewhere far away to wallow in your own self pity. Are you having marital troubles again?
Lets see, so far your contribution to this thread has been nothing more than one "fanboy" post where you try to stick your head up wenids ass, and some completely useless decimal to hex conversions that any retard with a calculator could do. I think everyone here knows that YOU have nothing usefull to contribute. Why don't you post something technical and prove me wrong.
I won't hold my breath :)
@jannz
Sorry, my whole post was not directed toward you, I was trying to clear up some misconceptions that some others are having.
Since the DLD is created by copying the RAW binary data directly into the file, and only correcting a checksum, it is not decrypted by the flaser.
Post by: skyhi on April 29, 2005, 02:54:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 29 2005, 12:32 AM)
Just glancing at the disassembly, there are several obvious, serious problems with it being 8051 code. Why don't you take another look and report back your findings.
All right so it's 32 bit code - I'm a liltte out of my league with this but willing to dig into it.
This link http://pioneerdvd.rpc1.org/disWin32.zip also has a matsushita 102000 disassembler for windows - would that be of any use?
Post by: XBOX 360 Onwer on April 29, 2005, 03:14:00 PM
Post by: bourke on April 29, 2005, 09:36:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 29 2005, 06:44 PM)
Lets see, so far your contribution to this thread has been nothing more than one "fanboy" post where you try to stick your head up wenids ass, and some completely useless decimal to hex conversions that any retard with a calculator could do. I think everyone here knows that YOU have nothing usefull to contribute. Why don't you post something technical and prove me wrong.
I won't hold my breath :)
I won't hold my breath :)
Everyone who has not posted at all has contibuted to this thread far more that anything you have spewed out.
FYI, I am a qualified Computer Systems Engineer with 3 years industry experience and can therefor quite easily see how much shit you have been spinning. the difference between you and me is that you don't know when to hold your tongue and cease insulting people.
Post by: Tiros on April 30, 2005, 08:57:00 AM
QUOTE(bourke @ Apr 30 2005, 02:35 AM)
FYI, I am a qualified Computer Systems Engineer with 3 years industry experience and can therefor quite easily see how much shit you have been spinning. the difference between you and me is that you don't know when to hold your tongue and cease insulting people.
WOW!
Your "qualified"!! By who, to do what? By wenid? To give blow jobs?
That must make you an extremely valuable asset to your employer.
You actually have 3 whole years experience???!!!! Do you know what a "greenhorn" is?
You don't seem to be progressing too well. Maybe you are in the wrong field, have you considered McDonalds?
If you know so much, why is your reply so vague?
If you know so much, why don't you explain the "shit" I have been "spinning"? (whatever that means)
If you know so much, why don't you tell us what to do with the hex values you brilliantly converted from decimal?
If you know so much, why can't you contribute even one TECHNICAL point to this thread?
There are plenty of other differences between you and me, but holding your tounge is not one of them. I guess you forgot about your own advice when you chose to stick your nose in my argument with wenid:
Bourke provoke Tiros
I have only responded in this manner to those who provoke me.
Post by: TKramka on April 30, 2005, 10:43:00 AM
Post by: menelik on April 30, 2005, 11:56:00 AM
im afraid that we obviously cant and will never be able to. :blink:
Post by: truBB on April 30, 2005, 11:59:00 AM
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/8050L_an22023_pin8.jpg)
on the 8050L, for the AN22023:
pin6 === pin 9 === ground
pin8 === pin 41 == TP515 (also goes to uC33 and uC16)
Looking at the 8163b, for the AN22023:
pin 41 === TP515 fortunately, same nomenclature as 8050L.
I haven't cut my traces yet, but I'm going to soon. With Tiros' suggestions, this is what I'm going to attempt:
8163b:
A. pin6 (dvd power shown below) ==== 1kohm ==== TP126 PINK READY
B. cut TP126 trace, side that leads to AN22023, obviously :rolleyes:
C. solder pin 6 (AN22023) to ground.
D. pin5 (dvd power shown below) ==== 1kohm ==== TP128 ORANGE TRAY_OUT
E. cut TP128 trace, side that leads to AN22023
F. solder pin 8 (AN22023) to TP515.
G. pin 4 (dvd power shown below) === EJECT
H. pin 7 (dvd power shown below) === 1kohm ==== TP055 RED TRAY_IN
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/xbox_yellow_cable_end.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/pins_ucontroller3.jpg)
ABOVE PIC shows:
TP126 PINK READY
TP128 ORANGE TRAY_OUT
TP055 RED TRAY_IN
I just had another crazy idea, that I'd like to try, but I doubt it would work. The idea is to short LDCD to LDDV, possibly telling the drive that when you load a cd-R, it may fool the drive into thinking that there is a dvd inside. Well, its just a thought...
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/8163_LDCD_crazyidea.jpg)
Post by: TKramka on April 30, 2005, 12:26:00 PM
Post by: Tiros on April 30, 2005, 12:38:00 PM
Are you sure 6=9=GND?
On the 8050 pix, 6 is shorted to 9, but I thought this node was driven by Uc.47
I don't have 8050 but for 8163 this is what I found:
Uc.50=22023.6
Uc.63=R/C/22023.7
Uc.49=22023.8
Uc.47=22023.9
Problem #1:
@true: pin6 === pin 9 === ground??
I cut Uc.49 and Uc.50 from the chip.
Connected jumper from 22023.6 to 22023.9, leaving Uc.47 to drive this node.
Are you saying that for 8050 Uc.47 does not drive this node? It is ground? Are you sure? If Uc.47 does not connect here, than where does Uc.47 go in 8050?
Problem#2:
@true: pin8 === pin 41 == TP515 (also goes to uC33 and uC16)
Since I dont have 8050, I couldn't find was what drives 22023.8 in the 8050. If what you say is correct, what drives Uc33 and Uc16 on the 8163? You may have to rewire that circuit too if it is different from 8050.
Please double verify the connection for 2203.8, and the 22023.6/.9 node.
Great work BTW.
You seem to be the only person here cabable of producing any significant results.
Not @True:
What we are trying to do here is make the 8163 Mboard look EXACTLY like the 8050 Mboard. If you want to help, try to find differences.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Apr 30 2005, 07:48 PM
Post by: Tiros on April 30, 2005, 02:00:00 PM
These connections are looking like they DO make sense. I'm tryin it out tonight and I'll report back my findings.
I wish I had 8050 :(
Great Find!
@all
BTW, I didn't mean he's the ONLY contributor. I just meant that this thread has been stale of any NEW information for quite a while.
This post has been edited by Tiros: Apr 30 2005, 09:05 PM
Post by: truBB on April 30, 2005, 03:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros)
Are you sure 6=9=GND?
Tripple checked this. 6==9==to ground.QUOTE(Tiros)
Are you saying that for 8050 Uc.47 does not drive this node? It is ground? Are you sure? If Uc.47 does not connect here, than where does Uc.47 go in 8050?
on the 8050, uC47 ====R223 (10k) === grnd, see below.(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/misc11b.jpg)
8050L (shown above)
QUOTE
Please double verify the connection for 22023.8
Double checked this as well. confirmed.Here's a pic before I cut any traces. I just desoldered the audio out connector from the far side, and pulled the pins up and out. I think it'll make for a cleaner install.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/8163b_modded.jpg)
8163 (shown above) 8050L in the background
Post by: bourke on April 30, 2005, 11:14:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 30 2005, 02:56 PM)
There are plenty of other differences between you and me, but holding your tounge is not one of them.
Gainsaying is one of your only virtues we all have gathered!
QUOTE(Tiros @ Apr 30 2005, 02:56 PM)
I guess you forgot about your own advice when you chose to stick your nose in my argument with wenid:
Bourke provoke Tiros
Bourke provoke Tiros
Is English your second language? 'provoke Tiros' is not past tense; past tense would be 'provoked Tiros'. If you are going to attempt communication in English at least try little man.
This post has been edited by bourke: May 1 2005, 06:22 AM
Post by: Tiros on May 01, 2005, 08:37:00 AM
QUOTE(bourke @ May 1 2005, 04:13 AM)
Gainsaying is one of your only virtues we all have gathered!
Is English your second language? 'provoke Tiros' is not past tense; past tense would be 'provoked Tiros'. If you are going to attempt communication in English at least try little man.
Is English your second language? 'provoke Tiros' is not past tense; past tense would be 'provoked Tiros'. If you are going to attempt communication in English at least try little man.
Good one! You got me on a grammer error. Why is it that all forum losers like you always resort to spelling and grammer mistakes when they have no other leg to stand on? Maybe you should persue english as a career instead of being a "qualified Computer Systems Engineer with 3 years industry experience". :lol: Look at it this way, you won't be tossing away any knowledge or experience if you change careers now.
I would also like to point out your continued lack of TECHNICAL content in ANY of your posts, except for your ingenious dec/hex convsersion, and your inability to answer any of the questions put to you. Why did you feel the need to start this with me?
Post by: sorcer1 on May 02, 2005, 01:50:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ Apr 30 2005, 09:31 PM)
Double checked this as well. confirmed.
Here's a pic before I cut any traces. I just desoldered the audio out connector from the far side, and pulled the pins up and out. I think it'll make for a cleaner install.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/8163b_modded.jpg)
8163 (shown above) 8050L in the background
Here's a pic before I cut any traces. I just desoldered the audio out connector from the far side, and pulled the pins up and out. I think it'll make for a cleaner install.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/8163b_modded.jpg)
8163 (shown above) 8050L in the background
Have you any problems with the dashboard or with the ejecting?
Do you use the original firmware?
Thanks.
P.S. Great job, continue guys!
Post by: 9alfred7 on May 02, 2005, 07:11:00 AM
What exactly needs to be cut?
Post by: monsteria on May 03, 2005, 07:05:00 AM
I've followed this thread for 2 weeks now and attempted the mod this weekend on two 8163B (white, mft: Jan '05).
But its coming up with the same problem: Eject doesn't work, both from pushing the eject button on XBOX and the drive.
Any ideas why? Do you think that by using 950ohm resistors (on Ready, In, Out) make a difference, i ran out of 1kohm ones.
I haven't flashed 8050L firmware yet; is it necessary? Where can I find the correct firmware. There's been a lot of contradicting post, i've lost track of what's what.
Some interesting find is that my current messed up mod DVD plays DVD movies and games, even if the yellow cable isn't connected. It appears the ready signal is contantly on.
keep up the cood work!
Post by: sorcer1 on May 03, 2005, 08:49:00 AM
If you want to read CD-R and Originals and don't have any problems you must wait for another firmware, but perphaps it is no possible to do that!
Post by: XBoXMan on May 03, 2005, 04:56:00 PM
Update: Nevermind, after I tried this, some DVD-R no longer work...lol but it is still working 100% w/out shorting those point just w/out CD-R support for now. Sorry about it, shoud've test it more before posting.
This post has been edited by XBoXMan: May 4 2005, 12:11 AM
Post by: truBB on May 03, 2005, 07:25:00 PM
Good try. I was originally thinking of connecting LDDV and LDCD, but as TKramka pointed out, the laser gain wouldn't be right. doh! Did you just short the two? or did you try putting a diode across those points, this way it shouldn't bother reading the dvds... again, its just a crazy idea.
Post by: XBoXMan on May 03, 2005, 10:42:00 PM
Post by: singdad on May 03, 2005, 11:10:00 PM
I am very confused now. Which diagram/bios/flash program should I use to modify my 8163B? I don't really need it to read CD-R. What is the exactly shortfall for the current modification. :uhh:
Thx
Post by: truBB on May 04, 2005, 01:38:00 AM
This is what I have done right now, and it works very well, minus cd-R support. I havn't cut any traces yet, but I plan to for further testing. Games detected as games in eVox, eVox dvd-rs detected as eVox dvd etc. Games boot up on cold start. An open tray closes on shut down. Acid tests passed. All good!
1.
Flash firmware from #xbins. For mine, I couldn't get it to flash unless I put the 8163b as a master, and my normal cd burner as slave. I put both jumpers to cable select, and it works well. I booted to dos, then flashed the 8163b with the command:
CODE
SF8163.exe 8050L.dld 2 /p /c /f /o /i
Note: my 8163b is set on the secondary master.
2.
Next I soldered all my wires to the back of the board to the audio out connector. Of course, I had to desolder the pads on the far side first using solder braid. Then I pulled the legs up and out as shown:
CODE
TR_IN + + TR_OUT
| |
EJECT + | | + READY
| | | |
| |
EJECT + | | + READY
| | | |
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/8163b_modded.jpg)
Those are 1k resistors at each location, except for eject.
The eject wire gets soldered to the other side here:
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/8163b_eject_solder_point.jpg)
3.
I moved the jumper to slave. Soldered the audio out cable (that came w/ the drive) to the to the xbox power dvd cable using the diagram: Obviously I used only four wires, pins 4, 5, 6 & 7.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/xbox_yellow_cable_end.jpg)
4.
Used a Y-power cable (like this one from newegg),
plugged in the power, the custom dvd-cable, ide-cable. Thats it.
You can refer to this post for more info on what I still have planned, but it works fine as is. Super simple, and cheap!
Post by: bninja on May 04, 2005, 02:09:00 AM
Post by: TKramka on May 04, 2005, 02:50:00 PM
@truBB
It wouldn't be the laser gain, it would be the laser wavelength that would be wrong. DVD lasers run at about 640 nanometers, whilst CD lasers run at about 780 or something like that. Regardless, the red light that a DVD laser emits would be somewhat absorbed by the media, making it pretty much useless. The Thomson uses the same design, which is why it sucks at reading CDRs.
Post by: Darts on May 04, 2005, 03:11:00 PM
QUOTE(bninja @ May 4 2005, 09:08 AM)
TruBB, do you still have the issue of the drive spinning down? i was trying to watch a movie on mine the other day and it got pretty annoying having it stop during the movie
I'm having this issue as well, quite annoying for a media player. I don't really care about the CDRs but this spin down bug is getting nasty.
Ah! I saw a lot of people requesting a x16 firmware, just wondering what's the use of such a function? The games won't load that faster and you'll have a very noisy drive. I'd much more appreciate a solution on that spin down bug if any ;)
Post by: TKramka on May 04, 2005, 07:35:00 PM
Post by: Tiros on May 05, 2005, 11:02:00 AM
As far as I know, all the issues are resolved except CDR reading.
Post by: TKramka on May 05, 2005, 12:47:00 PM
Post by: Darts on May 05, 2005, 01:55:00 PM
Post by: TKramka on May 05, 2005, 02:58:00 PM
Post by: truBB on May 05, 2005, 06:57:00 PM
You can get the latest firmware from #xbins. The filename is: 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar
Post by: Darts on May 06, 2005, 08:46:00 AM
The spindown issue is not when playing a movie but when pausing it : after a minute or two the drive powers itself off and the XBOX reboots.
Quite annoying when you need a snack or something else ;)
Post by: TKramka on May 06, 2005, 02:04:00 PM
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 07, 2005, 08:08:00 AM
Post by: TKramka on May 07, 2005, 09:13:00 AM
Post by: TKramka on May 08, 2005, 11:21:00 AM
Post by: ace1774 on May 08, 2005, 01:13:00 PM
On friday i bought a 8633bb for 20EYRO (about 30 dollars).
A friend of mine which i thank him very much came on Saturday and after 1 hour we had a working 8050.
Thank you very to everyone and especially TruBB.Also thanks for the firmware on Xbins.
Everything works like a charm.Every game.3 different types of DVD-R TY02,Princo,TYG02.DVD-RW also and cd-rw.
I didn't try cd-r.
Evox status ok , Open , Close, Init Correct display status.
Also Avalaunch report the DVD as 8050
So again THANK YOU guys
Post by: panosvo on May 08, 2005, 10:47:00 PM
Post by: Darts on May 08, 2005, 11:42:00 PM
Do you have it when you pause a video DVD one minue or two?
Post by: ace1774 on May 09, 2005, 01:12:00 AM
On friday i bought a DVD ROM LG 16X52 (GDR-8163BB) Bulk with software for 20EYRO (about 30 dollars).
A friend of mine which i thank him very much came on Saturday and after 1 hour we had a working 8050.
Thank you very to everyone and especially TruBB.Also thanks for the firmware on Xbins.
Everything works like a charm.Every game.3 different types of DVD-R TY02,Princo,TYG02.DVD-RW also and cd-rw.
I didn't try cd-r.
Evox status ok , Open , Close, Init Correct display status.
Also Avalaunch report the DVD as 8050
So again THANK YOU guys
P.S. I will try the DVD movie spin down problem and report on evening
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 09, 2005, 02:44:00 AM
Post by: sorcer1 on May 09, 2005, 05:32:00 AM
QUOTE(akzim_inahurry @ May 9 2005, 08:43 AM)
so.. yesterday i modded my 8163.. it took all dvd-/+r and rw's and all cd-r/rw's .. nice thing..
Are you sure?
Did you test all type of supports?
Wich diagram did you use?
Regards.
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 09, 2005, 05:52:00 AM
QUOTE(sorcer1 @ May 9 2005, 11:31 AM)
Are you sure?
Did you test all type of supports?
Wich diagram did you use?
Did you test all type of supports?
Wich diagram did you use?
yep i'm sure ;) tried a platinum 52x cd-r, a phillips 10x cd-rw, a platinum 8x dvd+r, a princo 8x dvd-r and a phillips 2,4x dvd-rw and all could be read(always burned on full speed).. just used the diagram which was posted before in here for soldering.. dont see any problems with that drive.. works fine..
greets
Post by: sorcer1 on May 09, 2005, 06:21:00 AM
Thanks.
Post by: ericmsusmith on May 09, 2005, 08:45:00 PM
http://forum.rpc1.org/viewtopic.php?p=161779#161779
Post by: Darts on May 10, 2005, 12:00:00 AM
I don't want to be a pain in the a** but what about the spindown issue when pausing a video DVD during a few minutes.
If someone who has a modified 8163 doesn't have this problem can post a scematic of the soldering as well as the firmare used, I'd be gratefull ;)
Post by: 9alfred7 on May 10, 2005, 12:12:00 AM
(does not read CDRs -btw)
The drive freezes up after (about) a half an hour. Then it won't start at all. If I mess with the connections a little, (unplug and replug the cables) it works again. (but only for a half an hour) It could also be the 10 to 15 minute delay that makes it work.
The wire i used is pretty thin, 30AWG. Could this be the problem?
Also, my soldering isn't the finest. Could too much solder cause this malfunction?
I might want to flash the drive back to its original firmware. (I think Maxamillion posted a way... not sure)
Has anybody else had problems like this?
Post by: Epic007 on May 10, 2005, 01:13:00 AM
I originally used the mod instructions found on about page 35. It was working, but intermittently.
I had re-modded mine according to page 49 and everything is working as intended. This involved moving two wires and re-flashing.
Now that I know it works I will be ordering another drive, because the head alignment on my current one is off. It has a difficult time recognizing DVDs, it finds CDs without a problem. Too much disassembly and re-assembly I guess.
Thanks for all the great development work!
Post by: mrkaylor on May 10, 2005, 08:22:00 PM
Post by: sorcer1 on May 11, 2005, 02:00:00 AM
QUOTE(mrkaylor @ May 11 2005, 02:21 AM)
I followed all of wenid instructions (Page 35) and everything is working fine.
Not everything!!!! Because the CD-Rs don't work !!!!
Post by: ace1774 on May 11, 2005, 04:21:00 AM
On friday i bought a DVD ROM LG 16X52 (GDR-8163BB) Bulk with software for 20EYRO (about 30 dollars).
A friend of mine which i thank him very much came on Saturday and after 1 hour we had a working 8050.
Thank you very to everyone and especially TruBB.Also thanks for the firmware on Xbins.
Everything works like a charm.Every game.3 different types of DVD-R TY02,Princo,TYG02.DVD-RW also and cd-rw.
I didn't try cd-r.
Evox status ok , Open , Close, Init Correct display status.
Also Avalaunch report the DVD as 8050
So again THANK YOU guys
P.S. I will try the DVD movie spin down problem and report on evening
I tried CD's and worked fine
Also no problem with DVD movie spindown.
My installation besed on Truebb instructions on page 49
Post by: liteon6x on May 11, 2005, 07:13:00 AM
also whats the purpose of the resistor
Post by: panosvo on May 11, 2005, 08:47:00 AM
I have flashed them with "8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED" and used the points from page 49 that TruBB post , and i used 3 1K resistors ,
Well the drives work fine :D they read copies , originals no problem with spindown or "init" but they cannot read CD-Rs :angry: , i dont know why ace1774 that i also made reads CD-Rs?
Will do more test...
Post by: truBB on May 11, 2005, 10:07:00 AM
QUOTE(liteon6x @ May 11 2005, 04:12 AM)
I just want to know before i carry out this mod ,if a resistor is not used will this mod still work and will it short out the drive if it is not present
also whats the purpose of the resistor
also whats the purpose of the resistor
The resistors are not necessary, but if you want to replicate the original 8050L xdrive, then install them. They are there so that you don't fry your xbox or dvdrom if you hook it up wrong. Hooking these lines up to 12VDC could cause latent defects in the uC of the dvdrom drive.
I suggest for everyone to install them, just to make the mod as similiar to the 8050L as possible.
Post by: ace1774 on May 11, 2005, 12:20:00 PM
Everything else works perfect
Sorry Pano..... :beer:
Post by: 9alfred7 on May 11, 2005, 03:36:00 PM
Why didn't M$ also prevent the use of dvd-rs?
This post has been edited by 9alfred7: May 11 2005, 10:43 PM
Post by: Stitch_626 on May 11, 2005, 06:41:00 PM
I have been following your developments with great interest. Here are some interesting obsevations that have been made in my experience in modding 616e running dual f/w. Some modded drives will nolonger read cd in emulation mode; however if the drive is switched to native there are no problems. The major difference between the f/w operation is the the spindle speed. The slower the spin the greater the return laser signal from the disc. CDs inherently have higher return signals than DVDs. Therefore, with CD discs running at slow speed produce laser return signals which are too strong, as result saturating the DSP circuit.
Here are some interesting specs to consider
Max xbox ROM spin is X4 to X5
max pc ROM spin dvd X16 and for cd X32 or X48
Basically there two options to solve this effect is to patch either the native f/w or the xbox one. The method that I choose was to run dual f/w as being the most expedient solution.
Keep up the excellent work! :) :popcorn:
This post has been edited by Stitch_626: May 12 2005, 01:48 AM
Post by: Darts on May 11, 2005, 07:23:00 PM
QUOTE(ace1774 @ May 11 2005, 11:20 AM)
Also no problem with DVD movie spindown.
My installation besed on Truebb instructions on page 49
My installation besed on Truebb instructions on page 49
Hi!
Can you please tell me what firmware you used?
Post by: truBB on May 11, 2005, 10:18:00 PM
QUOTE(9alfred7 @ May 11 2005, 12:35 PM)
The firmware prevents the use cd-rs.
This is not exactly true. I have two cd-rs that constantly work perfectly. They work on the original 8050L and the 8163b. Strangely enough I have other samsung cd-rs that do not work.
Post by: holto on May 12, 2005, 01:11:00 AM
Post by: lordvader129 on May 12, 2005, 01:13:00 AM
QUOTE(9alfred7 @ May 11 2005, 03:35 PM)
The firmware prevents the use cd-rs.
Why didn't M$ also prevent the use of dvd-rs?
Why didn't M$ also prevent the use of dvd-rs?
like all other xbox drives that dont read cd-r, its the laser, not the firmware (which is why some cd-r work, but most dont)
Post by: sorcer1 on May 12, 2005, 03:15:00 AM
QUOTE(lordvader129 @ May 12 2005, 07:12 AM)
like all other xbox drives that dont read cd-r, its the laser, not the firmware (which is why some cd-r work, but most dont)
If it's really a laser problem, the Stitch_626's theory is confirmed !
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 12, 2005, 03:52:00 AM
Post by: tiberius05 on May 12, 2005, 04:42:00 AM
I have purchased all the bits and I am ready to do some modding.
I have one newbie question that I hope somebody could answer please.
I have bought 3 1k resistors but they do not look like the ones on page 49. Mine are the stripey kind, I believe they are called commom resistors. Will these be just as good as truBB's little rectangular jobbies.
Thanks very much.
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 12, 2005, 04:46:00 AM
greets
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 12, 2005, 04:53:00 AM
QUOTE(tiberius05 @ May 12 2005, 10:41 AM)
I have bought 3 1k resistors but they do not look like the ones on page 49. Mine are the stripey kind, I believe they are called commom resistors. Will these be just as good as truBB's little rectangular jobbies.
i just desoldert some from my phillips drive.. worked fine ;) try that..(just follow the lines from the contacts).. why spend more money when old drive is trash?! =)
Post by: tiberius05 on May 12, 2005, 05:31:00 AM
Thanks for the reply and I hear what your're saying. Maybe I was being a bit melodramatic when I said my old drive was dying. What I should have said was that it has become much fussier reading recordable media. It still works fine on original pressed disks and because of that I don't really want to trash it.
Therefore my question still stands
I have bought 3 1k resistors but they do not look like the ones on page 49. Mine are the stripey kind, I believe they are called commom resistors. Will these be just as good as truBB's little rectangular jobbies.
Thanks everyone.
Post by: sorcer1 on May 12, 2005, 05:35:00 AM
QUOTE(akzim_inahurry @ May 12 2005, 09:51 AM)
currently it cant be the laser! because if you use the 8163 in a pc it reads every cd-r! so i have also no problems reading cd-r's in my xbox. currently just tried my platinum's but never have others so i think that problem will not happen to me.
But your 8163b it is modded? And what is the firmware?
Thanks.
Post by: jgranie on May 12, 2005, 06:46:00 AM
I have also 1K common resistors (the resistors on the photo are CMS, right ?).
If there is no electrical differences between them (actually don't know), then is it possible to solder them on the audio connector side vs. board side (easiest way for me) ?
thanks
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 12, 2005, 06:51:00 AM
QUOTE(sorcer1 @ May 12 2005, 11:34 AM)
But your 8163b it is modded? And what is the firmware?
Thanks.
Thanks.
i got the fixed firmware from the usual place. how i said a lot of times now.. the drive works fine to me.. and its modded yes.. but can still use it in my pc..
greets
Post by: sorcer1 on May 12, 2005, 07:08:00 AM
QUOTE(akzim_inahurry @ May 12 2005, 12:50 PM)
i got the fixed firmware from the usual place.
from xbins a suppose! but it is the last ?
QUOTE(akzim_inahurry @ May 12 2005, 12:50 PM)
how i said a lot of times now.. the drive works fine to me..
you're lucky ! because a lot a people can't read cdrs !
cheers !
Post by: Staple on May 12, 2005, 09:42:00 AM
Post by: akzim_inahurry on May 12, 2005, 10:38:00 AM
Post by: 9alfred7 on May 12, 2005, 02:59:00 PM
(Using the newer/correct firmware)
When you use it in your pc, does it read all types of cd-r?
Post by: sness54 on May 12, 2005, 03:15:00 PM
After flashing it, no longer read those same ones CD-R,s.
Post by: liteon6x on May 12, 2005, 05:55:00 PM
Post by: Epic007 on May 12, 2005, 07:51:00 PM
I did not use any resistors when I re-modded my drive to Page 49 instructions. Also I use the XBOX bezel that came with the original drive. Use a file or dremel to shave the inside hooks on the bezel down a little and also on the drive tray. Try to take even amounts from all four areas or the tray will get hung up on the xbox case.
1/4 watt 1k resistors are good enough.
Post by: truBB on May 12, 2005, 09:59:00 PM
QUOTE(tiberius05 @ May 12 2005, 02:30 AM)
@akzim_inahurry
Therefore my question still stands
I have bought 3 1k resistors but they do not look like the ones on page 49. Mine are the stripey kind, I believe they are called common resistors. Will these be just as good as truBB's little rectangular jobbies.
Therefore my question still stands
I have bought 3 1k resistors but they do not look like the ones on page 49. Mine are the stripey kind, I believe they are called common resistors. Will these be just as good as truBB's little rectangular jobbies.
QUOTE(jgranie @ May 12 2005, 03:45 AM)
I have also 1K common resistors (the resistors on the photo are CMS, right ?).
If there is no electrical differences between them (actually don't know), then is it possible to solder them on the audio connector side vs. board side (easiest way for me) ?
thanks
If there is no electrical differences between them (actually don't know), then is it possible to solder them on the audio connector side vs. board side (easiest way for me) ?
thanks
I used SMD (surface mounted device) resistors, 1k each. These are all low current lines, so any wattage will do, 1/8 or 1/4 but these get bigger in size and maybe harder to mount underneath the board. Use a hot glue gun to fix these into position once you get it all soldered up.
You can solder these lines to the uC controller directly (audio connector size), but its much much harder. Tray_out would go to uC pin 49 shown in orange below, for instance. If you use a microscope and solder to this side, you'll still want to run the wires thru the holes in the board and out the back. The cover has a small bend that is somewhat sharp, and could cut through those wires if you run them on the top side.
(IMG:http://www.fox302.com/userdata/doejoe/files/dvdrom/pins_ucontroller.jpg)
These radio shack 1k resistorswill work:
(IMG:http://www.radioshack.com/images/ProductCatalog/ProductImage/271/271-1321.jpg)
Post by: jgranie on May 13, 2005, 01:54:00 AM
QUOTE(liteon6x @ May 13 2005, 12:54 AM)
Also I use the XBOX bezel that came with the original drive. Use a file or dremel to shave the inside hooks on the bezel down a little and also on the drive tray. Try to take even amounts from all four areas or the tray will get hung up on the xbox case
Could you post some photos please ?
Post by: tiberius05 on May 13, 2005, 03:36:00 AM
Please can anybody help or offer assistance. I was carrying out the mod and the tray-in point has lifted from the board.
Is there anything I can do to rectify this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Post by: jgranie on May 13, 2005, 04:45:00 AM
QUOTE(tiberius05 @ May 13 2005, 10:35 AM)
AAAARRRRGGGHHH!!!!!
Please can anybody help or offer assistance. I was carrying out the mod and the tray-in point has lifted from the board.
Is there anything I can do to rectify this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Please can anybody help or offer assistance. I was carrying out the mod and the tray-in point has lifted from the board.
Is there anything I can do to rectify this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Perhaps... I had the same trouble, and I am trying to repair, the only way I found is to follow the track and solder a strap between the nearest holes (first removing the isolation layer (I don't have the english for "vernis" ?) around the hole). My first try didn't work, but I think this is due to my incompetence in soldering rather than the method itself. If you're not a pro in soldering, give it to a friend (at least that's what I did).
Good luck.
This post has been edited by jgranie: May 13 2005, 11:54 AM
Post by: turho on May 13, 2005, 08:53:00 AM
Good bios and bios flasher.
Very Thanks, regard Turho from Hungary, Martfu City
Ps: My Xbox /My son xbox
/: ver. 1.6, LG drive /i can't replace, please these helps me!/
Post by: bninja on May 13, 2005, 07:36:00 PM
what i did to fix it was - scraped a small amount of the coating away from the trace leading to the solder pad you lifted, until you see the copper,
tin the trace and the end of the wire you want to solder,
lay the tinned wire on the trace and touch the soldering iron to the wire
the wire should be soldered to the trace.
i hope that makes sense.
it worked fine for me
maybe someone could post a pic showing what to do?
good luck
Bninja
Post by: Epic007 on May 13, 2005, 09:29:00 PM
Yes, I will post some pictures of the bezel and drive tray hopefully by tommorrow.
Post by: ERROR: Your Xbox Has Died on May 13, 2005, 09:56:00 PM
Post by: sauerdave on May 13, 2005, 11:25:00 PM
QUOTE(CableBro @ Dec 12 2004, 05:28 PM)
model number?
Model number on mine is GDR-8050L
Post by: turho on May 14, 2005, 12:17:00 AM
Help me please. I like a good work for LG8163b.
My son's xbox i like the modding work today.
I like: read 16x for games, read cd-r's, and fully functionally eject switch.
Where are the good firmware?
Thanks.
Regards from Hungary, Martfu City
PS: Sorry, I don't know good english.
Post by: jgranie on May 14, 2005, 05:20:00 AM
QUOTE(bninja @ May 14 2005, 02:35 AM)
maybe someone could post a pic showing what to do?
Here the hole with the coating removed
(IMG:http://img123.echo.cx/img123/5033/holecleaned1nu.png)
Here the lifted solder pad with the trace (red circled), and the repaired point (blue circle)
(IMG:http://img123.echo.cx/img123/1600/solderpadreplaced3rl.png)
Finally it works for me.
Post by: tiberius05 on May 14, 2005, 03:14:00 PM
Thanks for all your help I'm pleased to announce that I too now have a fully working xbox drive that reads everything apart from cd-r.
I'm just going through the process of getting it to fit with a nicely aligned xbox bezel.
Thanks once again.
Post by: turho on May 14, 2005, 11:43:00 PM
. I'm 30 years old, and not speaking english. And my son's 10'th birthday is may. 26. I like give modded xbox for you.Please help me for correct tutorial, firmware and flasher programs. Please./
Tiberius, you can help me for complete tutorial?
I'm not good speaking english. I very like modding my LG8163b. Please.
Post by: tiberius05 on May 15, 2005, 04:13:00 AM
I will try to assist by summarising the steps you need to take in order to complete
this mod. I must start off by saying that my first attempt was less than successful, so please take your time. All the information I used was obtained from this thread and that I would not have been able to carry out this mod if it wasn't for the people who contributed and came up with a solution. So big thanks to them.
Firstly look at page 49 of this thread. truBB (May 4 2005, 07:37 AM ).
This is basically all I needed to complete the mod.
Step 1 get the xbox firmware.
The file you are after is called 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar
This can be obtained from the usual source i.e. xbins. Please refer to the following tutorial if you do not know how to get files from xbins.
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/xbins.php
Step 2. Flashing the drive.
Connect the dvd drive to your PC. I followed truBB's advise (page 49) and connected my drive on the secondary master ide channel and set the jumper to cable select.
I had problems flashing the drive with windows xp so I created a dos 6 boot disk.
www.bootdisk.com is a good site to use.
I copied the firmware onto the boot disk as I have NTFS partitions.
I booted the PC from the dos boot disk and typed in the following command:
SF8163.exe 8050L.dld 2 /p /c /f /o /i
Step 3. soldering.
Open the DVD drive case and remove the board. Carefully remove the 3 ribbon cables. 1 of the cables is stuck to the underside of the board so you will need to flip the board over and carefully remove this.
The board is only held in by a small clip.
If I can please refer you back to page 49 all the solder points are clearly shown.
I used 1k common resistors (with the stripes), truBB has used surface mountable resistors. I have been informed that both types are fine.
I used desolder braid as suggested on page 49 to remove the solder from the audio connector. I then carefully levered them up with a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
I also found that by scratching the pads on the board a little with a needle and applying a little liquid flux helped the soldering. I then tinned the resistor. Finally I put the component on the board and the soldering iron on the component. I did not touch the board directly with the iron, I let the liquid flux do the work.If you apply to much heat to the pads they will lift off as I have discovered so please be careful.
When you put the drive back together you will notice that the board won't go back in because of the the straightened audio pins. You will need to cut out a small piece of plastic to allow the board to go back down.
step 3 Making a cable.
You need a cable to send the Eject, Ready, CD tray in, and CD tray out signals that you have routed through the audio connection of the DVD drive to your xbox. This is made from a standard dvd audio lead (comes with most dvd drives) and the yellow lead that normally goes between the xbox mother board and original drive.
Please refer to page 49.
Basically you have 4 wires going from the dvd drive to the xbox motherboard
I found that doing each cable one at a time and labelling each cable helped.
Step 4 Making it fit
You will need a y-pair molex connector which connects to the lead that normally goes into the back of your hard drive. It the splits allowing you to supply power to the hard drive and the dvd drive.
Remove the bezel and the surrounding black face plate.
If you put the drive into the plastic dvd tray you will notice that the cylindrical upright (at the front on the left needs to be cut. I chopped mine straight down the middle.
You should now be able to make the drive fit into the xbox.
When you put the lid on you will notice there is another cylindrical piece of plastic coming downwards. The easiest thing to do is cut this bit off. I've got a green xbox and am not so keen in doing this so I will probably make a hole in the dvd drive case.
Hope this helps, best of luck.
Post by: jgranie on May 15, 2005, 04:18:00 AM
) and the cdready is always 0V. The eject and the tr-in both work fine.I didn't used SMD, but classic 1k resistor and for facility I soldered them at the audio connector side instead of directlly on the board.
Thanks
Post by: turho on May 15, 2005, 04:32:00 AM
QUOTE(tiberius05 @ May 15 2005, 11:12 AM)
Turho,
I will try to assist by summarising the steps you need to take in order to complete
this mod. I must start off by saying that my first attempt was less than successful, so please take your time. All the information I used was obtained from this thread and that I would not have been able to carry out this mod if it wasn't for the people who contributed and came up with a solution. So big thanks to them.
Firstly look at page 49 of this thread. truBB (May 4 2005, 07:37 AM ).
This is basically all I needed to complete the mod.
Step 1 get the xbox firmware.
The file you are after is called 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar
This can be obtained from the usual source i.e. xbins. Please refer to the following tutorial if you do not know how to get files from xbins.
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/xbins.php
Step 2. Flashing the drive.
Connect the dvd drive to your PC. I followed truBB's advise (page 49) and connected my drive on the secondary master ide channel and set the jumper to cable select.
I had problems flashing the drive with windows xp so I created a dos 6 boot disk.
www.bootdisk.com is a good site to use.
I copied the firmware onto the boot disk as I have NTFS partitions.
I booted the PC from the dos boot disk and typed in the following command:
SF8163.exe 8050L.dld 2 /p /c /f /o /i
Step 3. soldering.
Open the DVD drive case and remove the board. Carefully remove the 3 ribbon cables. 1 of the cables is stuck to the underside of the board so you will need to flip the board over and carefully remove this.
The board is only held in by a small clip.
If I can please refer you back to page 49 all the solder points are clearly shown.
I used 1k common resistors (with the stripes), truBB has used surface mountable resistors. I have been informed that both types are fine.
I used desolder braid as suggested on page 49 to remove the solder from the audio connector. I then carefully levered them up with a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
I also found that by scratching the pads on the board a little with a needle and applying a little liquid flux helped the soldering. I then tinned the resistor. Finally I put the component on the board and the soldering iron on the component. I did not touch the board directly with the iron, I let the liquid flux do the work.If you apply to much heat to the pads they will lift off as I have discovered so please be careful.
When you put the drive back together you will notice that the board won't go back in because of the the straightened audio pins. You will need to cut out a small piece of plastic to allow the board to go back down.
step 3 Making a cable.
You need a cable to send the Eject, Ready, CD tray in, and CD tray out signals that you have routed through the audio connection of the DVD drive to your xbox. This is made from a standard dvd audio lead (comes with most dvd drives) and the yellow lead that normally goes between the xbox mother board and original drive.
Please refer to page 49.
Basically you have 4 wires going from the dvd drive to the xbox motherboard
I found that doing each cable one at a time and labelling each cable helped.
Step 4 Making it fit
You will need a y-pair molex connector which connects to the lead that normally goes into the back of your hard drive. It the splits allowing you to supply power to the hard drive and the dvd drive.
Remove the bezel and the surrounding black face plate.
If you put the drive into the plastic dvd tray you will notice that the cylindrical upright (at the front on the left needs to be cut. I chopped mine straight down the middle.
You should now be able to make the drive fit into the xbox.
When you put the lid on you will notice there is another cylindrical piece of plastic coming downwards. The easiest thing to do is cut this bit off. I've got a green xbox and am not so keen in doing this so I will probably make a hole in the dvd drive case.
Hope this helps, best of luck.
I will try to assist by summarising the steps you need to take in order to complete
this mod. I must start off by saying that my first attempt was less than successful, so please take your time. All the information I used was obtained from this thread and that I would not have been able to carry out this mod if it wasn't for the people who contributed and came up with a solution. So big thanks to them.
Firstly look at page 49 of this thread. truBB (May 4 2005, 07:37 AM ).
This is basically all I needed to complete the mod.
Step 1 get the xbox firmware.
The file you are after is called 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar
This can be obtained from the usual source i.e. xbins. Please refer to the following tutorial if you do not know how to get files from xbins.
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/xbins.php
Step 2. Flashing the drive.
Connect the dvd drive to your PC. I followed truBB's advise (page 49) and connected my drive on the secondary master ide channel and set the jumper to cable select.
I had problems flashing the drive with windows xp so I created a dos 6 boot disk.
www.bootdisk.com is a good site to use.
I copied the firmware onto the boot disk as I have NTFS partitions.
I booted the PC from the dos boot disk and typed in the following command:
SF8163.exe 8050L.dld 2 /p /c /f /o /i
Step 3. soldering.
Open the DVD drive case and remove the board. Carefully remove the 3 ribbon cables. 1 of the cables is stuck to the underside of the board so you will need to flip the board over and carefully remove this.
The board is only held in by a small clip.
If I can please refer you back to page 49 all the solder points are clearly shown.
I used 1k common resistors (with the stripes), truBB has used surface mountable resistors. I have been informed that both types are fine.
I used desolder braid as suggested on page 49 to remove the solder from the audio connector. I then carefully levered them up with a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
I also found that by scratching the pads on the board a little with a needle and applying a little liquid flux helped the soldering. I then tinned the resistor. Finally I put the component on the board and the soldering iron on the component. I did not touch the board directly with the iron, I let the liquid flux do the work.If you apply to much heat to the pads they will lift off as I have discovered so please be careful.
When you put the drive back together you will notice that the board won't go back in because of the the straightened audio pins. You will need to cut out a small piece of plastic to allow the board to go back down.
step 3 Making a cable.
You need a cable to send the Eject, Ready, CD tray in, and CD tray out signals that you have routed through the audio connection of the DVD drive to your xbox. This is made from a standard dvd audio lead (comes with most dvd drives) and the yellow lead that normally goes between the xbox mother board and original drive.
Please refer to page 49.
Basically you have 4 wires going from the dvd drive to the xbox motherboard
I found that doing each cable one at a time and labelling each cable helped.
Step 4 Making it fit
You will need a y-pair molex connector which connects to the lead that normally goes into the back of your hard drive. It the splits allowing you to supply power to the hard drive and the dvd drive.
Remove the bezel and the surrounding black face plate.
If you put the drive into the plastic dvd tray you will notice that the cylindrical upright (at the front on the left needs to be cut. I chopped mine straight down the middle.
You should now be able to make the drive fit into the xbox.
When you put the lid on you will notice there is another cylindrical piece of plastic coming downwards. The easiest thing to do is cut this bit off. I've got a green xbox and am not so keen in doing this so I will probably make a hole in the dvd drive case.
Hope this helps, best of luck.
Tiberius05! Very thanks for informations. I big-big-big please: flasher prog and bin files give me for my e-mail post? /sorry my english :)/
[email protected]
THX from HUNGARY!!!!!
Post by: Epic007 on May 15, 2005, 06:55:00 AM
(IMG:ftp://www.frontiernet.net/pub/users/bthill/P5150007.JPG)
The red area is where you need to shave down evenly on each side. Also the same areas on the XBOX bezel piece.
(IMG:ftp://www.frontiernet.net/pub/users/bthill/P5150008.JPG)
I clipped the pegs that stuck up here in the red areas.
(IMG:ftp://www.frontiernet.net/pub/users/bthill/P5150009.JPG)
I used tin snips on the red area to cut a piece of the metal casing where the peg sticks up from the XBOX. I used the original drive as a template. By doing this I did not have to cut that peg out and my drive stays firmly in place without any screws.
(IMG:ftp://www.frontiernet.net/pub/users/bthill/P5150010.JPG)
Also, I sliced the peg on the top cover down the center line so it would fit around the drive.
Post by: turho on May 15, 2005, 09:22:00 AM
Your mod is cd-r compatible, or not?
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 15, 2005, 10:03:00 AM
Well, today I soldered to whole thing toghether as on page49, but I have the same problem as "jgranie" ... evox will always stay on "cd: open"!
Well, I didn't flash the firmware cause I care more about CD-R support than games ... could this cause any difference for the soldering points, is this mod appliable for flashed drives respectively??
thx
Post by: menelik on May 15, 2005, 02:56:00 PM
try to switch pin 3 with 4, tray in and tray out. i modded 5 dvddrives today and all worked very fine.
WARNING TO EVERYONE:
Use the correct firmware, there are older firwwares out which generally work but you'll need different soldering points and some functions wont be 1:1 to the original drive. the correct firmware is called 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 15, 2005, 03:10:00 PM
gonna have another try, although i doubt it'll change anything, cause i measured the whole thing and the pins read as follows:
ready: always 0v :(
try_out: out: 3.3v, in: 0v ->but odd: in with cd: 3.3v :uhh:
try_in: always 0v :(
eject: works fine :D
evox only shows "open" the whole time
i soldered everything according to page49, ie truBB ... and it's not the first solder job for me, nor is it a really hard mod to perform.
i guess the problem is that i didn't flash the drive with 8050L bios ... cause i care more about cd-r than games!
has anybody got it working WITHOUT flashing the firmware?
thx
Post by: truBB on May 15, 2005, 09:12:00 PM
I started working on a tutorial, and its basically what everyone has been doing. I'm not completely finished, but it may help some of you.
How to turn a GDR-8163b dvdrom into a 8050L xbox xdrive
There may be some typos, and I'm still not complete, but I'm getting there. :beer:
Post by: turho on May 15, 2005, 11:00:00 PM
then put ide cable, a pc is not booting.How to reflashing it, the 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar firmware?
Idea?
My flashed 8163 not compatible the pc?
Post by: turho on May 15, 2005, 11:05:00 PM
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 15, 2005, 11:43:00 PM
very nice tutorial!!
well, that's what i thought about these soldering points: they only work when flashing the drive with the 8050L bios! :(
anybody found a solution without flashing the drive?
i guess i'm gonna have to try this version of the mod:
Schematics Lg 8163b Xbox (xbox Game Fixed)
might have a better chance with this one as it resembles the lg drd-8061 mod (tutorial section on xbox-scene)
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 01:38:00 AM
And flashing 8050L fixed?
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 03:46:00 AM
I don't reflashing 8050L fixed
Evox status is ejecting all time.
The eject button working, in-out.
How to re-soldering correct point the old fw, and how to reflashing my old 8050L
the 8050L fixed???
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 04:13:00 AM
Post by: menelik on May 16, 2005, 05:06:00 AM
http://h20000.www2.h...-1&lang=English
it worked with mine, i used the old bios first and wondered why didnt work right until i reflashed it to 8163b and later to the fixed 8050l - it should also be possible to flas it directly to the fixed firmware.
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 05:24:00 AM
and not flashing.
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 05:49:00 AM
Post by: menelik on May 16, 2005, 05:56:00 AM
/c /f /p /o is important here!
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 06:08:00 AM
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 06:13:00 AM
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 06:15:00 AM
Post by: menelik on May 16, 2005, 06:28:00 AM
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 06:46:00 AM
Post by: turho on May 16, 2005, 07:00:00 AM
Menelik you are GOD!
Post by: Wonder1 on May 16, 2005, 03:23:00 PM
I serach for mod howto for the LG 8163B this can read cd-r and backups in my Xbox, they must not read Xbox Games, not realy when too ther is fine but not this is priority of the drive.
The Point is i lost the line in this threat and i need the points for the 4 signals to Xbox Tray in / out, ready and eject .the next question is need i for the mod the 1k Resitors yes or no.
In the most german forum´s can i nothing read to a mod of a lg 8163B.
thx
Post by: ReRuss on May 16, 2005, 03:39:00 PM
Here is a edited drive pic (based off the philips pic)
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 16, 2005, 04:59:00 PM
currently the mod described in this topic will not work without flashing the firmware.
in other words: if you want cd-r support, don't flash the drive. without flashing though you'll need other soldering points which i'm also trying to locate.
maybe the schematics shown in the other topic for this drive (with a logic chip) might work ... so far i didn't have the time to try.
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on May 16, 2005, 08:47:00 PM
----------
I just have one question before I FINALLY start this mod. Can the 8050L firmware be hacked to enable CD-r support or am I deaming? If it can be done is it really hard to do? Has a xbox firmware ever been hacked to enable certain features; for example the samsung firmware or has it always supported CD-r?
Sorry for all the questions. :unsure:
This post has been edited by Maverick-DBZ-: May 17 2005, 03:50 AM
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 17, 2005, 08:25:00 AM
if you want original games support, then you have to flash the drive and solder everything according to the guide, but it will not read cd-r.
if you want to keep cd-r support, don't flash the drive (then it will not read originals, though, obviously), and you'll need other soldering points.
the second solution is what wonder1 was asking for.
Post by: sorcer1 on May 17, 2005, 09:03:00 AM
QUOTE(SpEeDaMiGo @ May 17 2005, 04:29 PM)
if you want to keep cd-r support, don't flash the drive (then it will not read originals, though, obviously), and you'll need other soldering points.
the second solution is what wonder1 was asking for.
the second solution is what wonder1 was asking for.
Me too !!!!
But nobody has found the soldering points !
With the original bios the drive can read cd-r even without soldering points, isn't it?
Cheers.
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 17, 2005, 09:13:00 AM
how far are people on the firmware front? anybody working on hacking the 8050 bios for cd-r support?
I made a request at rpc1.org, but as far as I have read in other posts, the dangerous brothers are "not interested in promoting xbox piracy" :(
Post by: menelik on May 17, 2005, 12:08:00 PM
http://www.paccforce...ial_TS-H352.pdf
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 17, 2005, 01:33:00 PM
too bad I've already purchased an LG-8163B!
@truBB:
have you made further testing regarding the points you wanted to short, i.e. something with LDCD and LDDV?
Post by: Stitch_626 on May 18, 2005, 03:47:00 AM
QUOTE(SpEeDaMiGo @ May 18 2005, 03:17 AM)
well, of course it can read cd-r with the original 8163b bios. the whole point of the soldering job is just to have the drive operate on its own in the xbox with working eject button, etc. (without having to attach the xbox drive as well)
how far are people on the firmware front? anybody working on hacking the 8050 bios for cd-r support?
I made a request at rpc1.org, but as far as I have read in other posts, the dangerous brothers are "not interested in promoting xbox piracy" :(
how far are people on the firmware front? anybody working on hacking the 8050 bios for cd-r support?
I made a request at rpc1.org, but as far as I have read in other posts, the dangerous brothers are "not interested in promoting xbox piracy" :(
They express this view many times!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Post by: dopeuser on May 18, 2005, 04:26:00 PM
THANKS IN ADVANCE!!
Post by: truBB on May 18, 2005, 09:26:00 PM
I don't have a floppy either. I use a boot cdrom. You can put the flasher anywhere on your hard drive. The boot cd is used to boot into dos, then change drives and run the flasher:
CODE
c:
cd\temp
etc.
etc.
cd\temp
etc.
etc.
Post by: dopeuser on May 18, 2005, 11:39:00 PM
Post by: menelik on May 19, 2005, 05:26:00 AM
i sell those drives for 35 € (complete black version) from germany, shipping cost in germany are 7 €. international shipping would be too expensive.
the drives are modded and got the rightmobo connector => plug n play
This post has been edited by menelik: May 19 2005, 12:27 PM
Post by: Stilly82 on May 19, 2005, 06:18:00 AM
QUOTE(truBB @ May 16 2005, 05:16 AM)
You must flash your drive for this mod to work.. And you must flash it with the right firmware..
I started working on a tutorial, and its basically what everyone has been doing. I'm not completely finished, but it may help some of you.
How to turn a GDR-8163b dvdrom into a 8050L xbox xdrive
There may be some typos, and I'm still not complete, but I'm getting there. :beer:
I started working on a tutorial, and its basically what everyone has been doing. I'm not completely finished, but it may help some of you.
How to turn a GDR-8163b dvdrom into a 8050L xbox xdrive
There may be some typos, and I'm still not complete, but I'm getting there. :beer:
Ok, thanks truBB, but i want to know one thing, this is the FINAL mod for this drive???
Or there are other thing that don't work???
Another questions: All the evox status and the xbox media center status are now work propely like an original drive???
Thanks for your answer!!!
Post by: menelik on May 19, 2005, 06:46:00 AM
Post by: truBB on May 19, 2005, 11:34:00 AM
QUOTE(Stilly82 @ May 19 2005, 05:22 AM)
Ok, thanks truBB, but i want to know one thing, this is the FINAL mod for this drive???
Or there are other thing that don't work???
Another questions: All the evox status and the xbox media center status are now work propely like an original drive???
Thanks for your answer!!!
Or there are other thing that don't work???
Another questions: All the evox status and the xbox media center status are now work propely like an original drive???
Thanks for your answer!!!
1. There is never a FINAL mod. This mod may continue to grow as ppl find interest and continue the work.
This mod will get you a working 8050L out of a 8163b.
2. See answer above
3. Yes
This post has been edited by truBB: May 19 2005, 06:34 PM
Post by: dopeuser on May 19, 2005, 05:53:00 PM
Mine was a 8163b (white one) , the date on it says Feb 2005.
Just wanted to add this, because I know in this thread (somewhere amongst the
800+ posts) someone said something about newer 8163b's not working.
Ive tried originals, and dvd+r's, they both work fine.
I havent cut open the xbox yet to properly install it (thats tomorrow) but
just switching over the IDE cable, and y-splitting the power to it, it plays games either by booting up with a game in it, or using boxplorer, and opening the default.xbe.
Post by: dopeuser on May 19, 2005, 09:52:00 PM
ok, everythings working, fine, and since I dont sleep, I figured I may as well do the soldering now. So I take the 4 screws off the
back, unclip the wires and board, then I thought Id take the faceplate part off. As I was messing around with that,
I noticed a sound.... almost like a small screw was in there, actually more like a small ball bearing rolling around. But only if I turn it slowly in certain directions. Its hard to tell excactly where the sound is coming from, its completely apart and I dont see anything.
I don't think it made this sound before, I sure didnt notice, and now that I do notice, its driving me nuts!
Anyone know what it could be? Does anyone else 8163 sound funny if you move it around?
Im sure this is probably nothing, maybe some little balance sensing device? Or maybe I broke it taking it apart?? I dont think so, Im pretty easy on stuff like this, since I know its easily broken.
Oh well, I have no clue, anyone know what that sound is?
Post by: truBB on May 19, 2005, 11:21:00 PM
Does it sound like this? sound
You gotta lay off the dope every once and a while. That noise is just the ball bearings in the slide rails of the dvdrom...
Post by: dopeuser on May 19, 2005, 11:54:00 PM
just I swear I didnt hear it before, well I probably heard it, just didn't really notice it though, so when I did hear it, well, you get the idea, thanks for answering, took a load off my mind, Im soldering this thing right now, loads of fun!
Post by: monsteria on May 20, 2005, 06:58:00 AM
I confirm that this mod works: DVD-R/W and DVD+R/W, but no CD-R.
But I NEED Help!!!!
I bought two LG drives, the first one i made a mistake and sent 5.0v to the eject connection. Now the eject function doesn' work. Help! Anyone has any ideas how I can fix it? Everything else works fine.
I know that my cable and soldering points are correct because I manage to mod the second drive and its all working nicely.
Can someone help me with repairing my first drive, it plays all DVD but the eject button doesn't work.
Current status.
Eject = 0v open, 0v close
Ready = 0v open, 3.3v close
What shoudl the In and Out points be?
Many thanks
Post by: dopeuser on May 20, 2005, 01:05:00 PM
putting 5volts thru something not meant to carry 5volts could have fried something in its path. Or possibly you soldered to the right point, but something lifted or came loose? I'm not sure, those are the simplest things to check, like as you say, the other one works with the same solder points.
Beside the eject solder point, theres that white plastic connector part that you pulled the cable out of. On that connector the second pin from the left (it says LDOUT on the board on top of it, its directly under the 'L') should test for continuity with the pin on the audio connector you wired for eject. As well test between each of those pins, to your solder point, one at a time.
Sorry if this is obvious to you, or youve already checked that.
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 21, 2005, 06:28:00 AM
I can confirm that shorting these two will indeed make a modded 8050L read cd-r, but no longer dvd-r.
Putting a diode across these points either way won't have any impact!
Shorting VRDVD to ground will not change anything.
Shorting VRCD to ground will have the same effect as connecting it with VRDVD.
I pulled out my digital multimeter and tried to get some insight in how these two points work, but I didn't get any reasonable results that would maybe allow to implement some logical curcuit.
Anyway, I tried some more stuff ... and screwed up my LG drive: now it won't read any media anymore, don't know why.
Well, I'll have to buy another one and for the time being I think I'm just gonna install an external switch which will short VRCD to ground ... you need to lift your a** anyway to change media... not too big of a deal (for me). And by shorting it to ground there's not gonna be any problem with switching between DVD and CD mode while the xbox is running.
Post by: u_no_fr on May 21, 2005, 09:04:00 AM
does this method work??
http://www.tuning-consoles.com/modules.php...content&tid=114
tchuss :beer:
This post has been edited by u_no_fr: May 21 2005, 04:04 PM
Post by: dopeuser on May 21, 2005, 09:58:00 AM
monsteria- I was putting my drive back in the xbox, and I noticed if you look at it from the front, right below the eject button on the LG, theres barely any space between the solder points beneath the switch, and the metal casing for the drive, it would be very easy and possible maybe theres a short there? I know its the xbox eject switch that isnt opening the 8163b, but unless you isolated the switches, a short at one would cause the other not to work. Just a possibility....
Post by: menelik on May 21, 2005, 10:18:00 AM
if its true that shortng vrcd and vrdvd let you read all cds and dont damage the drive and that this signal isnt digital there should be no problem to make an autoswitch with a transistor, some kinda gatter or whatever.
i will take a closer look on this shorting method later. im really afraid of shorting points without knowing their purposes.
Post by: menelik on May 21, 2005, 11:15:00 AM
because i'm not sure if the drive will get damaged i gotta make some stress tests and puplish this mod.
if this mod works this will be the first drive in the history which wont have ANY media problems at all. it will read dvd-r(w) like the most, it will rea dvd+r(w) which no samsung could and it will read every cd like no drive really could before.
if this mod wont work just ignore this message, but it works here for at least one hour
btw, i couldnt fix the slow cd speed, anyway, better than nothing.
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 21, 2005, 11:39:00 AM
but it didn't screw up as a result of shorting vrcd and vrdvd ...
just another thing I was wondering about: reviews tell the 8163b has got some really nice error correction. by flashing it to the 8050l, does it keep the same error correction?? otherwise it wouldn't be worth much for me if it gets some cheep-a** error correction as a result of the 8050l bios.
Post by: menelik on May 21, 2005, 12:03:00 PM
i had a max speed of 1,2 kb, not fast at all but this could als be solved some day.
btw, maye you accidentaly short vrdvd with the capacitor next to it whic goes to the laser. if yes you laser is fried.
This post has been edited by menelik: May 21 2005, 07:05 PM
Post by: jgranie on May 21, 2005, 02:53:00 PM
If the post was done by a newbie, I just say you're joking and don't pay attention to it, but you are a senior member, so...
Post by: Stilly82 on May 21, 2005, 02:58:00 PM
QUOTE(u_no_fr @ May 21 2005, 05:08 PM)
hi all,
does this method work??
http://www.tuning-consoles.com/modules.php...content&tid=114
tchuss :beer:
does this method work??
http://www.tuning-consoles.com/modules.php...content&tid=114
tchuss :beer:
Hey guys, what type is this mod?????
This work good? It seems very good to make and very easy, but only two wires???
What do you think about this trueBB and Menelik (THE EXPERTS)???
Thanks fot your answer!!!
Post by: menelik on May 21, 2005, 03:02:00 PM
i also did some stress test an my drive is still alive and i dont think that my method will hurt it. i' happy to say that this is really the first mod which dont have any frontiers with media.
the last todo thing is the max speed limitation of about 1200 kb/s for cds. actually im not interested into more speed and i dont believe that this will be easy to solve without firmware hacks which you shouldnt wait for.
btw, i'm going to publish my tutorial tomorrow which will also show how to fit the drive gently into the xbox.
stay tuned
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 21, 2005, 03:16:00 PM
That could very likely have happened ... it's what I had in mind too. Didn't expect it to fry the laser permanently though.
I guess your mod is based on vrcd and vrdvd ...
@stilly82
Go ahead and try it and see what turns out. I don't know WHY this mod SHOULD even work though, considering it only uses 2 wires. Nevermind.
Post by: truBB on May 21, 2005, 03:32:00 PM
hehe, sure that mod will work, somewhat... eject will work, reading original xbox games won't work, status won't work in eVox, status in smartxx firmware won't work, status in flashbios won't work and you need a mod chip to read backed up games/apps. If you want this kind of setup, you don't need a 8163b :)
Post by: u_no_fr on May 21, 2005, 05:06:00 PM
tchusss
Post by: turho on May 21, 2005, 11:41:00 PM
Post by: dopeuser on May 21, 2005, 11:50:00 PM
just looks like simply rewire of the switches, kinda like I could rerun the wires in my house to the light switch in the kitchen turns on the lights in the bathroom, but that doesnt mean I can take a dump in the kitchen sink!
but anyways... I got everything done with my 8163b, its flashed and been hacked up to fit nicely in the xbox, well, almost.... it doesnt come foward enough, it needs about another 1/16" or so to bring it flush with the front.
The height is good, its nice and centered and doesnt rub anything when opening or closing, obviously Ill have to cut, grind, bend, or mutilate something to give me that 1/16", but what? Oh well, I think Ill wait for menelik's tutorial on "how to fit the drive gently into the xbox." hopefully you have a lot of pics, and dont forget to drop the link to it here please.
And THANKS!
This post has been edited by dopeuser: May 22 2005, 06:51 AM
Post by: G0t M4xx 21 on May 22, 2005, 12:04:00 AM
QUOTE(menelik @ May 21 2005, 07:26 PM)
it will rea dvd+r(w) which no samsung could and it will read every cd like no drive really could before.
Hmm, every Samsung 605b and flashed 616t I have reads everything, including dvd+r and dvd+rw, and "every cd". Maybe I just got lucky.
This post has been edited by G0t M4xx 21: May 22 2005, 07:04 AM
Post by: menelik on May 22, 2005, 03:34:00 AM
i tested every version pof the samsung drive except the version coming along with the 1.6 which was the worst. no drive could read dvd+, even the modded 616t cant. the latest samsung drives read no cds too.
This post has been edited by menelik: May 22 2005, 10:35 AM
Post by: ferrari_rulz_02 on May 22, 2005, 05:10:00 AM
Post by: G0t M4xx 21 on May 22, 2005, 07:58:00 AM
QUOTE(menelik @ May 22 2005, 11:38 AM)
@G0t M4xx 21
i tested every version pof the samsung drive except the version coming along with the 1.6 which was the worst. no drive could read dvd+, even the modded 616t cant. the latest samsung drives read no cds too.
i tested every version pof the samsung drive except the version coming along with the 1.6 which was the worst. no drive could read dvd+, even the modded 616t cant. the latest samsung drives read no cds too.
I haven't tried the 1.6 samsung yet (i know it sucks), but every 605b and 616t Ive ever messed with has read dvd+r/rw. For me at least, its dvd-r/rw that they have trouble with.
Ive burned many game backups to Memorex 8x DVD+R, burned iso with both Roxio or Nero, and every Sammy drive reads em fine.
It also reads movies fine from dvd+r/rw
Post by: menelik on May 22, 2005, 08:24:00 AM
Post by: menelik on May 22, 2005, 08:33:00 AM
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=400274
i think that we all have waited long enough for such a drive!
Post by: [H]ackerK on May 25, 2005, 03:29:00 PM
QUOTE(SpEeDaMiGo @ May 21 2005, 06:32 AM)
Ok guys, I performed some experiments today with VRCD and VRDVD.
I can confirm that shorting these two will indeed make a modded 8050L read cd-r, but no longer dvd-r.
Putting a diode across these points either way won't have any impact!
Shorting VRDVD to ground will not change anything.
Shorting VRCD to ground will have the same effect as connecting it with VRDVD.
I can confirm that shorting these two will indeed make a modded 8050L read cd-r, but no longer dvd-r.
Putting a diode across these points either way won't have any impact!
Shorting VRDVD to ground will not change anything.
Shorting VRCD to ground will have the same effect as connecting it with VRDVD.
Are you talking about just the plain orginal 8050 found in the newer XBOX w/o firmware upgrade what so ever? Just shorting those two point will do tricks?
Post by: SpEeDaMiGo on May 30, 2005, 09:35:00 AM
Sorry if it wasn't clear, but I was talking about a modded 8163B. I don't own the 8050L, got one of those newer Samsung cheap a** drives.
Post by: Stilly82 on May 30, 2005, 01:27:00 PM
Thanks for your answer!!!! :)
Post by: menelik on May 30, 2005, 01:53:00 PM
Post by: Stilly82 on May 30, 2005, 01:59:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ May 30 2005, 09:57 PM)
yes it is.
Thanks a lot!
Post by: htcmagician on May 30, 2005, 02:31:00 PM
I read nearly the whole thread, but I miss one thing:
You can connect your LG-8050 to a PC to flash a Firmware which can read CDRs... great work!, but isnt it possible to flash the HITACHI LG 8050 in the XBOX ?
maybe with an xbe flasher application or something ..
(or with the Evox, which can flash the xbox bios ... why not the dvd-drive firmware?)
... or maybe with XDSL
Or is there a solution / is it possible and I didn't find it in the Forum ?
HTCMAGICIAN
This post has been edited by htcmagician: May 30 2005, 09:43 PM
Post by: Akuaguen on May 31, 2005, 01:30:00 PM
HOW IS IT POSSIBLE TO HACK THE HL GDR-8050L DATA STORAGE XBOX DRIVE THAT COMES WITH LAST CONSOLES????
Hack for what??? because it does not read CD-Rs.......
Thanks
Post by: htcmagician on May 31, 2005, 01:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Akuaguen @ May 31 2005, 09:34 PM)
I got the same question....
HOW IS IT POSSIBLE TO HACK THE HL GDR-8050L DATA STORAGE XBOX DRIVE THAT COMES WITH LAST CONSOLES????
Hack for what??? because it does not read CD-Rs.......
Thanks
HOW IS IT POSSIBLE TO HACK THE HL GDR-8050L DATA STORAGE XBOX DRIVE THAT COMES WITH LAST CONSOLES????
Hack for what??? because it does not read CD-Rs.......
Thanks
With or without open the xbox/connecting it to a pc ?
htcmagician
Post by: menelik on May 31, 2005, 02:27:00 PM
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=400274
Post by: htcmagician on June 01, 2005, 12:33:00 PM
QUOTE(menelik @ May 31 2005, 10:31 PM)
Sorry, but in that thread i didn't find anything about how to flash the drive without opening the xbox ... !?
htcmagician
Post by: menelik on June 01, 2005, 01:16:00 PM
QUOTE(htcmagician @ Jun 1 2005, 08:37 PM)
Sorry, but in that thread i didn't find anything about how to flash the drive without opening the xbox ... !?
htcmagician
htcmagician
Post by: [H]ackerK on June 01, 2005, 03:16:00 PM
QUOTE(SpEeDaMiGo @ May 30 2005, 09:39 AM)
@[H]ackerK
Sorry if it wasn't clear, but I was talking about a modded 8163B. I don't own the 8050L, got one of those newer Samsung cheap a** drives.
Sorry if it wasn't clear, but I was talking about a modded 8163B. I don't own the 8050L, got one of those newer Samsung cheap a** drives.
Thx for clear up my confusion.. ;)
Now I just hope there is a new firmware for the 8050L....
Post by: Black2lip on June 03, 2005, 01:25:00 PM
Does anyone know if this is just the same as the v1.6 to mod?
Post by: Chancer on June 03, 2005, 01:34:00 PM
Yes its the same to mod as a 1.6 because it is a 1.6
Post by: Black2lip on June 03, 2005, 02:06:00 PM
QUOTE(Chancer @ Jun 3 2005, 09:38 PM)
Where have you been? there is like a million page thread in this section about these drives they have been around ages.
Yes its the same to mod as a 1.6 because it is a 1.6
Yes its the same to mod as a 1.6 because it is a 1.6
Aha ok thanxs, have been out 'the scene' for a few months and searched the forums without result.
Post by: Slrpgeit on June 03, 2005, 02:11:00 PM
Post by: lordvader129 on June 03, 2005, 04:17:00 PM
QUOTE(Slrpgeit @ Jun 3 2005, 04:22 PM)
How can you miss a sixty page thread about the LG drive <_<
now they are one and the same
Post by: DjoeN on June 04, 2005, 03:54:00 PM
, but i still couldn't figure out IF the GDR 8162B Also will work.I have 2 LG GDR 8162B drives around, Or must it be The GDR 8163B ?
If the GDR 8162B works is it identical to mod like the 8163B
Thx.
Post by: nase on June 05, 2005, 03:00:00 AM
Post by: TGD on July 05, 2005, 08:14:00 PM
I've only used dvd-r,dvd+r and dvd-rw..all work great in this LG..and i've used about 5 diffrent brands of -r,+r,-rw each. Nice drive..though too bad it wont read cd-r but thats ok..there are other ways to get your music on hd via pc.
This post has been edited by TGD: Jul 6 2005, 03:15 AM
Post by: Maverick-DBZ- on July 09, 2005, 08:28:00 PM
Post by: rog311 on July 09, 2005, 07:58:00 PM
QUOTE(TGD @ Jul 5 2005, 10:33 PM)
I have one of these LG Hitachi drives in an xbox..compared to my other two xboxes which one has a thompson and the other the first "good" sammy drive. I tell ya this much..this LG hitachi loads my dvd-r backups quicker then my fast sammy drive or at the very least in equal speed.
I've only used dvd-r,dvd+r and dvd-rw..all work great in this LG..and i've used about 5 diffrent brands of -r,+r,-rw each. Nice drive..though too bad it wont read cd-r but thats ok..there are other ways to get your music on hd via pc.
I've only used dvd-r,dvd+r and dvd-rw..all work great in this LG..and i've used about 5 diffrent brands of -r,+r,-rw each. Nice drive..though too bad it wont read cd-r but thats ok..there are other ways to get your music on hd via pc.
ground that VRCD point in the tut, like i did,
my drive now reads Cd-rs,
and agreed about the drive, though i do have like 2 dvd-rs that my sammy will read and this wont,
but other than that, no complaints.
Post by: menelik on July 10, 2005, 03:06:00 AM
Post by: xenonmodz on July 29, 2005, 06:43:00 PM
Post by: Jesterace on August 15, 2005, 07:51:00 AM
Post by: faast on August 15, 2005, 01:29:00 PM
BUT while we're here...My friend has one of these drives and it is so-so, kindy picky with CD-RWs tho.
Post by: heraldoffailure on August 27, 2005, 08:37:00 AM
Keep in mind that these things aren't rare like the 616ts so the 150+ price tag that those carried is not reasonable for these drives.
Post by: nachomans on September 24, 2005, 08:05:00 AM
The board is cheap!! I know how to solder, but I like high wattage solders (like 30w), but in this case the board is really cheap...so you can desolder pads easyly, so take care and use only 15watt solder!
Post by: nachomans on September 29, 2005, 09:36:00 AM
Post by: fr_dr on September 29, 2005, 06:22:00 PM
Post by: fr_dr on September 29, 2005, 07:28:00 PM
This post has been edited by fr_dr: Sep 30 2005, 02:29 AM
Post by: nachomans on September 29, 2005, 08:47:00 PM
This post has been edited by nachomans: Sep 30 2005, 03:50 AM
Post by: brian886622 on December 23, 2005, 06:50:00 AM
Post by: andrew900ca on January 14, 2006, 08:22:00 PM
Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)
QUOTE(Maverick-DBZ- @ Jul 9 2005, 09:35 PM)
Has anyone tried loading Dual Layer Media on the modified drive? My Samsung 616T drive wouldn't read my DL discs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
yea i have. i got the game Matrix Path of Neo. in dual layer... seems fine to me.
Post by: Richter77 on January 16, 2006, 06:40:00 AM
I hope someone found the READY Signal on the PCB on a 8164b Modell.
I want to built one in my second Xbox cause the Org Drive is broken.
I dont need Orginal Media for this xbox, just want it to load my Backups.
I found LDIN , LDOUT , and EJECT.. these are near together... but i had no luck to found the READY
Please Help
((
Post by: andrew900ca on January 16, 2006, 01:59:00 PM
Post by: andrew900ca on January 16, 2006, 04:37:00 PM
QUOTE(otherguy @ Dec 21 2004, 01:59 PM) 
I can verify this as being true. I modded a machine i got last night - straight from my local FYE store - mfg date was 2004-11-20 I believe. It was also a 1.6 machine with samsung ram.. it had a white dvd cable instead of the normal yellow or brown one.
Everything seemed to go smoothly with it though.
here's some pics i got.
sorry for the huge-ness - i dont have photoshop on this machine
I dont know about your date but mine is JUNE 2005... and do you have to upgrade the firmware or something... im not sure how if u do.
Post by: Gilgamesh20 on January 26, 2006, 12:34:00 PM
My drive is a new one : February 2005
I used the 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.
First I Flashed the drive with a 3½ disk. I think the flashing process where ok. No error message apeared.
Then I followed the rest of the guide but, I didnt find the 09 ''data'' points to solder. I soldered 12v, 5v, GND, GND, EJECT, CD READY, TRAY IN and TRAY OUT. 8 wires like in the guide.
When I connected the drive in the xbox. The loading sequence betwen the M$ logo and the Dashboard took like 4 minutes!! Everything load super slow.. And when I get in he Xecuter 3 bios with the 256k backup. no dvd drive is detected. Nothing show up in the drive section excepting this message :
'' BooUdeReadData data not ready...
1: Drive not detected ''
Could this be the 09 Data points to solder on the pcb ? But in the all the guide, there is no mention of the data point.
Or
Could this be a bad firmware flash ?.. Could someone tell me step by step how we do a good boot disk ? should I use a cd w for that ? I cant seams to flash from windows with the ''GDR-8050L0012.exe'' program.
Windows XP detect a LG GDR 8050L drive but not the xbox..
please help!
This post has been edited by Gilgamesh20: Jan 26 2006, 08:49 PM
Post by: pumck on March 11, 2006, 03:05:00 AM
can i do that?
can someone help me please.
On my Xbox i have a dead Philips DVD and i want to make Lg gdr-81638 PC DVD-rom for read originals...
If i can use a firmware to do that...where can i find it?
Please reply to my message...thanx to everyone
Post by: masuta on July 07, 2006, 04:37:00 PM
QUOTE(nachomans @ Sep 30 2005, 02:02 PM)
I have similar problems..I´ve modded two LG, but in all the cases...all work perfectly for a half hour or less...then I get skipping in DVD video and DRE en xbox games....its an overheating problem or the LG drive itself....any ideas what can i do?
I have done 2 of the 8163B and I feel it is a great drive. I currnetly have one in a v1.1 and use it to play games as well as for a media center to play avi's off a dvd-r. I have used it for hours at a time with no problems. Xbox cpu sits on about 51-52*C or 55*C in xbmc as I have set auto fan control at 55. Mostly it is sitting on 16-18% fan speed.
Post by: perrin26 on July 18, 2006, 06:56:00 AM
I have the GDR 8163B
I started to use the tutorial on putting this pc drive into my xbox and stumbled when it came to flashing.
I have the sf8163.exe and the 8050l.dld which came from 8050l_fw_flasher_fixed.rar
the instructions didn't really tell you HOW to flash the drive, just to make a boot disk and do it from dos
I tried several ways. I made a boot disk for dos from xp, I made a boot disk for dos 6 with and without dvd support
I made a boot cd and booted from that.
my problem is, i have used the command listed in the tutorial
Both with the 2 for master on the secondary ide
and without to have it scan for it
as well as tried the suggestion of /r
the results for everything but /r was:
NO CD/DVD
/r Drive returns an error. The dvd drive still thinks it's a 8163 and boots.
Am I missing something here?
Post by: War_Machine on July 18, 2006, 10:12:00 AM
it plays dvd+, dvd-, dvd+rw, ill try a cd later
Post by: zerocool_91 on August 18, 2006, 12:22:00 PM
p.s. I still like the samsung better. HEHE
Post by: chuey_316 on November 02, 2006, 12:58:00 AM
i used the 8050l_fw_flasher_fixed from xbins. it said it flashed fine, but my pc will not recognize the drive and the led stays on unless there is a dvd in the drive.
i tried to make the boot disk from this thread and edited the autoexec and made the 4 bat files, but when i run it it says no cd/dvd drive. i added /r and it starts the rcovery mode flashing but ends in a couple seconds saying that the drive responded with an error.
Is there anything i can do? I hope so as i just got this drive today, followed the tutorials here and now i have a paperweight. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Post by: The Zep Man on November 02, 2006, 02:46:00 AM
QUOTE(chuey_316 @ Nov 2 2006, 10:13 AM)
i know this thread hasn't been posted in for a couple months, but it seems like the right spot.
i used the 8050l_fw_flasher_fixed from xbins. it said it flashed fine, but my pc will not recognize the drive and the led stays on unless there is a dvd in the drive.
i tried to make the boot disk from this thread and edited the autoexec and made the 4 bat files, but when i run it it says no cd/dvd drive. i added /r and it starts the rcovery mode flashing but ends in a couple seconds saying that the drive responded with an error.
Is there anything i can do? I hope so as i just got this drive today, followed the tutorials here and now i have a paperweight.
Post by: chuey_316 on November 02, 2006, 10:42:00 AM
i used the 8050l_fw_flasher_fixed to flash the drives firmware to that of a 8050l, for use in a xbox.
i have figured out my problem out however. the dirve was set as secondary master, was attached to secondary master, and flashed fine. after hours and hours of trying to figure out why my pc would no longer recognize the drive, and the drive would return errors when trying to restore the 8163b firmware, i changed the jumper to cable select, and all is fine.
pc recognizes the drive as an 8050l, and reads all but cdr. The led however still stays on constant, but i'm weeding through 1000's of post and getting to that, not that i care too much about the led being on, just so long as it works.
Not sure about the cable select thing and why it worked as the setting were correct in the first place, but after flash that's the only way it was seen.
Post by: Barney_1 on November 02, 2006, 08:25:00 PM
If you still have questions, start a new thread for this.