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Xbox360 Forums => Xbox360 Hardware Forums => Xbox360 General / Hardware Chat => Topic started by: grim_d on April 21, 2007, 05:50:00 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: grim_d on April 21, 2007, 05:50:00 AM

1st things first, ALL CREDIT goes to lawdawg0931 for this method, please stop sending me pm's thanking me as i'm not the genius, he is. If you wish to send him a pm thanking him please do so by clicking Here

Please use this thread to discuss lawdawg0931's X-Clamp Replacement Tutorial.

Update 29/01/09 - video tutorials available here Here

The tutorial is available Here or Here

you may discuss things like, alternate parts, troubleshooting etc.

The original X-clamp replacement thread is available Here, it contains much valuable information.

I do not want to see ANY posts which say "Which method is better" or similar, both method's are proven to work, other may find one method easier than the other etc.

Once you have performed and X-Clamp replacement, It would be appreciated if you could report your success in This thread.

If you have used RBJtech's tutorial and wish to discuss it, please use the specified thread Here

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvsone on April 21, 2007, 08:56:00 AM

Australian Parts

Store: Bunnings Warehouse (Store Locater)

2 x Dan's Premium C/S MT Screws & Nuts Size 3/16x1/2 (Qty: 5 per packet)
2 x Zenith Flat Washers 3/16 (Qty: 25 per packet)

I used 3 washers on the bottom of the motherboard, and 2 on the top.

I cleaned the CPU, GPU and heatsinks with Arcticlean, and re-applied with Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Premium Compound.

Australian's can buy those thermal products from here.

Everything is working great for me so far. Thanks Lawdawg.

This post has been edited by dvsone: Apr 21 2007, 04:01 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 21, 2007, 12:48:00 PM

@dvsone
Thanks for the parts list...everything helps out for different areas. Glad to hear it's working out for you.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: grim_d on April 21, 2007, 01:34:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 21 2007, 07:55 PM)

@dvsone
Thanks for the parts list...everything helps out for different areas. Glad to hear it's working out for you.

I think Soon it's going to rech the stage where were going to need a pinned faq for everything related to this.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darthjuky on April 21, 2007, 01:20:00 PM

I read just this morning. Ran out to Lowes to get the parts. I sent my box in to modchipman.xxx and the repair did not take. They were doing the heat gun thing and artic silver paste. I waited 80 days. Out of frustration I read this and I did the repair this morning carefully. Only 1 hour. I followed it exactly and it worked. It makes sense. The motherboards are warping and these "X" clips do not hold on to the gpu and cpu very well. My GPU was the culprit. Loose as a goose on the mother board with the crappy "x" clip. When the box warps from heat it loses connection. The towel trick and the heat gun trick are short temporary solutions because the board will warp again eventually due to design flaw with the "x" clip.

Inside the box when I took it apart, I could rock the "X" clip back and forth. It was very loose.

In my case, this repair worked. We played for 3 hours this afternoon. It was well worth it. I hope the repair companys are paying attention to this.

It makes sense. The mother boards are warping out due to heat. Follow the instructions exactly how they have them. I about pooped my pants when it booted and played flawlessly. I noticed the internal fan rpm was working and seem stronger after the reapir.

God bless you for posting this repair and the part numbers to get the parts! Outstanding.

This post has been edited by darthjuky: Apr 21 2007, 08:23 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: smittykoi on April 21, 2007, 02:24:00 PM

Just a Quote from the last topic by ( naoneo ) worked for me >>>>>

Fixed, was getting 3RL on power-on at one point, scrapped those crappy x-clamps and it works fine now!

As a note, i'm in the uk so i used these parts, from B&Q :

Flat washer 5mm (Code AVF-064968)
Machine screws 5mm 0.8mm x 30mm (Code AVF-069871)

The screws were fine for the larger heat sinc, but i had to dremel the heads off the flat heat sinc level with the top of the heat sinc to install the dvd drive, the B+Q didn't actually have anything smaller than 30mm in 5mm-0.8mm at the one i went to but im sure they'll probably have the right size elsewhere?
The washers however are spot on, i used one on the underside, and two on the top between motherboard and heat sinc.

>>>> I used 1 washer to start off with, which this booted but then gave me 2 red lights> which is over heating, Then tryed the 2 washers between motherboard and heat sinc, and bang all is working fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) played on it for 2 nights running 8 - 10 hours play with no probs.

found >> Machine screws from b&q 5mm 0.8mm x 12mm ( code AVF-069352 )

This post has been edited by smittykoi: Apr 21 2007, 09:27 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on April 21, 2007, 08:50:00 PM

I've read both guides(im not trying to start a vs here mods

) and I just need to ask a question for this method. I know in RBJtech's method, he has modified the heatsinks to fit the screws, and do you do any of that with this method or you just take the clamps out and replace them with screws+washers?

I've seen the reference picture in the guide, but it kinda confused me

. Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: WyldRyce on April 21, 2007, 09:23:00 PM

Went ahead and tried this seeing how I didn't want to pay for repairs. Unfortunately, it just gave me a new error code. Went from a 0102 to a 0020. Going to try messing with the washers and stuff and see if that works. If not, looks like I'll be buying a Elite. =(

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on April 21, 2007, 09:29:00 PM

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ Apr 21 2007, 07:57 PM)

I've read both guides(im not trying to start a vs here mods

. Thanks.

With this method....you just use the washers and screws, no modifications required. I did this...and it works great. Just don't forget to clean and replace the thermal grease.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on April 21, 2007, 10:23:00 PM

QUOTE(WyldRyce @ Apr 21 2007, 08:30 PM)

You might want to check out this thread since the last poster had the same error as you and managed to sort the problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

QUOTE(jameswalter @ Apr 21 2007, 08:36 PM)

With this method....you just use the washers and screws, no modifications required. I did this...and it works great. Just don't forget to clean and replace the thermal grease.

Cool. I was thinking I had to cut out some of the aluminum fins on the gpu hs. Thanks for that info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: WyldRyce on April 21, 2007, 10:06:00 PM

Thank you so much for posting that! My 360 now boots up!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 22, 2007, 08:26:00 AM

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ Apr 21 2007, 10:54 PM)

Cool. I was thinking I had to cut out some of the aluminum fins on the gpu hs.

Not with my method, but you might want to do some of RBJTech's cooling mods - like cut out the back grill around the fans (better airflow).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Morien on April 22, 2007, 08:29:00 AM

QUOTE(dvsone @ Apr 21 2007, 11:03 PM)

Australian Parts

Just wondering how much it all comes to?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 22, 2007, 12:17:00 PM

I´m close to do this X clamp mod, but i´m in the fence between Dawg and Rjtech.

What i like about the Rjtech is that the measure are in UK (same type we use in my country ) Cm, mm, etc..
and the guide is much simpler..

what i like about the Dawg is that i don´t have to modife the GPU heatsink.

So if someone could give me the size of the componentes in mm it will be great

a) 8 M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws #138433

16 #10 Flat Washers Nylon #139065
c) 16 5mm Flat Washers Metal #138319
d) Artic Silver thermal compound

How ling is the m5-80x10 ? how cmm and diamiter is?
same with the flat washers... etc..

thanks!

By the way this is not a post asking wich is better i´m still undecided..
Also i don´t see a good explanation on this tutorial for the CPU only for the GPU... any idea where i can find the Dawgs tutorial for the cpu heatsink?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 22, 2007, 02:05:00 PM

@booker

The bolts are 10mm in length, and the washers are the same as RBJTech's measurements..(.71mm)
The mothod is the same for both heatsinks, the bolts go through the mobo (with washers listed), then screw right into the heatsinks (their native thread). No need to drill out the heatsinks. That way it's reversible (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: Apr 22 2007, 09:07 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: fake_punk on April 22, 2007, 02:52:00 PM

Now, where can I find these parts in Canada? I went to home depot, and they didn't have any. In fact, al they had was imperial sizes.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 22, 2007, 04:58:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 22 2007, 09:12 PM)

Great.. i may try this method then... i think the benefit of making reversible is HUGE,specially with me that didn´t mod a 360 before. I did PC though.

One last question.. how do you know how hard to "tight" the bolts to the motherboard? do you have any rule or you just tight until you see you can´t do it any more without forcing?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darthjuky on April 22, 2007, 08:32:00 PM

Lawdogg, Thank you. It is still working folks. This repair worked. I don't know how you came across this exactly but it works.

Still up and running. Machine seems to run faster that ever. Its not overheating.

Good job Lawdogg.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 22, 2007, 08:31:00 PM

QUOTE(darthjuky @ Apr 23 2007, 03:03 AM)

Does anyone knows how long this fix should last?... for example, there are someone who was able to have this fix for..1 or 2 month for example?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: makaveli86 on April 22, 2007, 11:07:00 PM

fake punk, home depot shoudl still have them. However you might not get flat machine screws, might have to settle with the bigger heads. If not, check canadian tire, thats where i got mine, they had nylon washers too.

i'm also interested in how long this method lasts? curious if someone who replaced the clamps, ended up getting this error few days (or weeks?) later?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 23, 2007, 07:56:00 AM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 22 2007, 09:38 PM)

Does anyone knows how long this fix should last?... for example, there are someone who was able to have this fix for..1 or 2 month for example?

For most of the people posting back, this has worked since the tutorial has been out (about a month now). Still kinda early to say permanent, but VERY promising...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on April 23, 2007, 08:37:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 22 2007, 07:33 AM)

Not with my method, but you might want to do some of RBJTech's cooling mods - like cut out the back grill around the fans (better airflow).

Sounds good, though wouldnt that consume more dust since its exposed? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

Also, would any of these help if I put them in the ram chips on the underside of the mobo? though from the pictures, it looks like they're too tall to install (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sleep.gif)

This post has been edited by JakeDunn: Apr 23 2007, 03:37 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: grim_d on April 23, 2007, 08:15:00 AM

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ Apr 23 2007, 03:08 PM)

Sounds good, though wouldnt that consume more dust since its exposed?

Also, would any of these help if I put them in the ram chips on the underside of the mobo? though from the pictures, it looks like they're too tall to install

the fans blow out, doing those mods would only increase the fans ability to get air out of the console, thus providing better cooling.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on April 23, 2007, 08:39:00 AM

Ah, alright

So, what do you think of the ram heatsinks? yay or nay? or should I put anything at all to those ram chips to help them cool

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 23, 2007, 09:31:00 AM

Yeah i would like some advice from you guys. I got the 0102 error code last night, and i´m in the fence between this mod fix or the robber mod.

This looks really promising but also i A LOT more harder than the robber mod.

What i should do? do first the easy one (robber mode) and if don´t work, do the Clamp replacment.
Or go directly to the X clamp ?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 23, 2007, 10:49:00 AM

@Jakedunn
Those ram heatsinks are 8mm in height...too tall for the 4 under the board, & the 2 under the GPU heatsink. The southbridge & 2 in front of the heatsink could probably use them (might need to cut one in 1/2 for the ram chips - use a dremmel to cut it in 1/2)
@booker
I'm assuming you mean the "rubber" mod...as in erasures. That's up to you, but I feel the X clamps definitely need to be removed at some point (one way or another).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 23, 2007, 12:46:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 23 2007, 05:20 PM)

Ok, i will start with the X clamps... now the quesiton is.. do i also make the rubber mod ? or only if the system fails?

I´m not sure if my system have the thermal pads from Ms on the systems, i thinkn they started adding those after my 360 was released.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: blue_calx on April 23, 2007, 03:17:00 PM

this is great. my x360 just crapped out with 3rlod

Waiting on some arctic silver to come in the mail before i do this mod. I can only find the nylon washers at home depot though (no lowes even close to me) has anyone found the part #s at home depot? They use Crown Bolt as their screws dist. i think.

Are the metal flat washers #10 just like the nylon washers too?

Thanks lawdawg!

Also, has anyone tried Ace Hardware?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: polarz on April 23, 2007, 09:00:00 PM

I'm getting flakey results. The mod will work for 2-3 days perfectly then boom 3 rings are back. The 3 rings always seem to come back after an extended shut down time, ~18 hours. I play w/ the tightness of the screws/bolts or repeat step 7 and am good for another couple days. I have repeated step 7 ~3 times all w/ eventual temporary success.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm almost to the point of leaving the bottom portion of the case open so I can access the internal parts easier.....

On another note I dinged off one of the items in the pic below when I was tightening a bolt and slipped. It was on the back side of the motherboard, but I couldn't find a decent pic. My xbox behavior has not changed since this happened. I still continue to get the same flakey results, but I was wondering what this part was and if I should repair it. It obviously serves a purpose, but if it's non-critical I'll leave it be. It appears to be non-critical as I've logged ~20 hours with no problems with this part missing.

Thanks,
polarz

IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 23, 2007, 10:11:00 PM

QUOTE(polarz @ Apr 24 2007, 04:07 AM)

Well actually i open a thread bout it.. because i saw my motherboard have some missing/borken transistors on the back of the motherboard.. 2 or 3 to be exact. I´m wondering how critical are those and if i should "solder" them or leave it the way it is. I´m curious about others motherboard status reagarding this transistors.

Quite hard to believe i´m the only one with "broken/loose" transistors... many people got the 0102 code.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 24, 2007, 07:32:00 AM

@polarz

This is from Team Xbox:
For the first time, we get full details on the transistor count and other technical data regarding the Xbox 360 CPU. The paper reveals that the Xbox 360 has a single chip with 165 million transistors for its CPU that is a three-way symmetric multiprocessor design

Not sure if the one you dinged off was by the CPU or GPU, but with 165 million (many internal) seems like you could lose 1 or 2, but you gotta know each one does a needed job. It's never a good thing to knock a part off. Try finding a schematic for the board itself, listing parts. If possible, resolder the peice that fell off back in place.

As far as the flakey results, have you changed the number of washers immediately above the motherboard. It's critical that the heatsinks are sitting on the chips themselves & not on the washers.

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: Apr 24 2007, 02:34 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 24, 2007, 09:07:00 AM

lawdawg0931,

Yesterday i started to disamble the 360 and i notice 4 "transistors" on the back of the motherboard. 3 ON the cpu area and 1 on the GPU area. 3 of them were broken and 1 was missing.

I´m wondering what i should do, from the answers i got on other thread people say those are not critical to make the 360 work, but now with your answer i´m a bit confuse.
Bascially what i should do? should i continue with the X clamp Mod? or i should stop ?
I don´t have any experience soliding so i´m really afraid of solding those transistors.

Anyways, thanks for your advice.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 24, 2007, 09:40:00 AM

DP.

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 24 2007, 04:41 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on April 24, 2007, 09:58:00 AM

I thought RDC already answered your question? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sleep.gif)

Btw Lawdawg, uhh would putting thermal pads to the ram chips help? I always thought you put thermal pads then something to disippate the heat. Any thoughts? I dont want to resort to that eraser mod (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 24, 2007, 09:27:00 AM

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ Apr 24 2007, 04:29 PM)

I thought RDC already answered your question?

Btw Lawdawg, uhh would putting thermal pads to the ram chips help? I always thought you put thermal pads then something to disippate the heat. Any thoughts? I dont want to resort to that eraser mod

yeap.. i´m so freak out i follow this on 2 threads. Sorry.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on April 24, 2007, 09:50:00 AM

Just wondering man, i'd be nervous too lol, so I understand how you feel

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaniloMQ on April 24, 2007, 01:18:00 PM

Finally my fiber washers arrived

(IMG:http://img7.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Pacote/x360/x360fix_16.jpg)

It feels tigher to screw

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on April 24, 2007, 01:05:00 PM

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ Apr 24 2007, 08:29 AM)

I thought RDC already answered your question?

Btw Lawdawg, uhh would putting thermal pads to the ram chips help? I always thought you put thermal pads then something to disippate the heat. Any thoughts? I dont want to resort to that eraser mod

6 of the 8 RAM chips are able to have thermal pads put on them. 4 are on the back of the motherboard, and will dissipate heat to the shielding, the other 2 are under the GPU heatsink, and dissipate heat to that. The 2 chips exposed, should have some sort of heatsink installed (I think mine are 14mm high to avoid hitting the DVD-ROM).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 24, 2007, 03:43:00 PM

QUOTE(jameswalter @ Apr 24 2007, 02:12 PM)

@Jakedunn
Jameswalter answered perfect, that's exactly what I did.

@booker
I'm by no means an expert on these small transistors. If you're seeing informative posts in other threads regarding these transistors - they probably know more about them than I. On the other hand, if you feel you have nothing to lose in doing the X clamp replacement....go for it! If it's not going to work because of the missing transistors, doing the X clamp replacement won't make a difference anyway!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 24, 2007, 06:11:00 PM

Again me.. i need some advice.

Today i bought all the stuff i need. But i make a HUGE mistake. I bought a flat washers too wide. So the GPU heatsink flat washer touch with the CPU heatsink Flat washer. This will surely end up screwing the "contact between the heatsink and the chip.

Tomorrow i´ll try to get thinners flat washers. On the other hand the Nylon were perfect.

Now the advice..

for those who did this.. how did you do it?.. in paper is very easy, but in practice is a pain. Do you have the motherboard flip over? side or up?

My biggsest problem so far was put the bolts on the heatsink while keeping the flatwashers in place... and also being very careful with the motherboard.

Anyways if someone could tell me how did you do it and what do you feel is the most easy way to do this. i´ll be pleased.

thanks

PS, one last request. Could someone post some screenshots from this mod fix? i saw from RJtech but i didn´t saw with this technique.

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 25 2007, 01:13 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nettwerk on April 24, 2007, 06:47:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 24 2007, 11:42 PM)

My biggsest problem so far was put the bolts on the heatsink while keeping the flatwashers in place... and also being very careful with the motherboard.

When I tired this method, I put the bolts through the mobo upside down then stuck a peice of tape (I used electrical tape) to hold them while I balance the washers on the other side and then try and carefully screw everything into the heatsinks. It was hard but not too bad.

This post has been edited by nettwerk: Apr 25 2007, 01:47 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvsone on April 24, 2007, 11:17:00 PM

I put a book underneath the bottom of the motherboard when I turned the motherboard over to face up. I then added the washers and placed the heatsink on top. I then moved the book (with the motherboard on top) to the edge of a table and then slid the motherboard off the book so only 1 screw wasn't being supported by the book. This way I could focus on holding and screwing in one screw at a time. Once that screw was done I could move the motherboard in a different position to reveal another screw and so on.

If someone else has a better method, please let us know.

This post has been edited by dvsone: Apr 25 2007, 06:30 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RBJTech on April 25, 2007, 04:58:00 AM

QUOTE(jameswalter @ Apr 24 2007, 08:12 PM)

... the other 2 are under the GPU heatsink, and dissipate heat to that...

they don't unless you put a gap filler on them to fill the ~1mm gap .. they just sit under the GPU heatsink and cook...

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 24 2007, 10:50 PM)

@booker
I'm by no means an expert on these small transistors. If you're seeing informative posts in other threads regarding these transistors - they probably know more about them than I. On the other hand, if you feel you have nothing to lose in doing the X clamp replacement....go for it! If it's not going to work because of the missing transistors, doing the X clamp replacement won't make a difference anyway!

FYI - they are not transistors - they are capacitors. They are used to decouple / supress noise of the data lines thats all. A capacitor does not have a direct 'electrical' connection (as such) so not having them (in this instance) just means the line may have a bit of noise. If they were transistors (3 legs) or resistors (2 legs) then the xbox would likely not work at all as these have direct connections controlling or activating some other circuitry.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 25, 2007, 06:33:00 AM

QUOTE(RBJTech @ Apr 25 2007, 12:05 PM)

they don't unless you put a gap filler on them to fill the ~1mm gap .. they just sit under the GPU heatsink and cook...

RB,
thanks,
and thanks god that those are not transistors then, because i have a 2 o 3 broken.

Cheers,

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 25, 2007, 09:11:00 AM

QUOTE(RBJTech @ Apr 25 2007, 06:05 AM)

FYI - they are not transistors - they are capacitors. They are used to decouple / supress noise of the data lines thats all.

Wow - was I way off

, Thanks for the info. Actually I should know that, I had to replace a very small transistor when I changed cases on a 1.6 xbox 1

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 25, 2007, 04:16:00 PM

1 question
the first time i power up the system without the fans. Do the heatsink have to be touching the cpu/gpu ? or it have to be loose but still touching the cpu/gpu ?

thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 25, 2007, 06:35:00 PM

hmm i need some advice...
I did this, and when i turn the system on.. i waited for 3 min but the system kept the 3 rl.. It didn´t overheat

never changed to 2 red lights.. what could be wrong?

This is what i did exactly.

plug av cable, electri cable
turn the system on.. both heatsink were getting hot and more hot with time.
waited 3 mins.. but the 3 lights were still there.. it didn´t change to 2.. how long i should wait? i was scary that the cpu/gpu could get damage by waiting longer..

Btw i forgot to plug the dvd drive... if that info is helpful.

any ideas?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 25, 2007, 07:08:00 PM

damn i can´t edit.. ok.. here is what i did.. i wait it until the system cool down compleltey. i connect the dvd drive
and did the same something.. started with a 3rl
then after a few min it got 2 ligths...BUT.. when i tried to turn off the system with the power button it dind´t allow me

I had to cut the power off from the wall.

any idea if this is normal, when your system overheat, you can´t turn the system off from the power button? or what happen. I didn´t leave it more than 2 min after the 2 rl showed up.

anyways now i´m waiting until it gets cool down, and i´ll moount everything. I won`t tight those bolts more because the heatsinks were getting really really hot... so i guess they are fine the way they are.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 25, 2007, 07:49:00 PM

It should be fine after it cools...some people have had to overheat a little longer than 2 minutes, but check it first. My power button worked fine at all times, just a little harder to depress without the cover on. Hopefully it will come up when re-assembled.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on April 25, 2007, 08:17:00 PM

I couldn't get it to overheat either....so I used the towel method....for about 15 minutes, and after an hour of cooling, it booted right up, been working for 3 weeks now.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 25, 2007, 08:06:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 26 2007, 02:20 AM)

My experience.. so far

After rebuilding the system, i boot, i didn´t got the 3rl but the system froze on the xbox360 intro. This was the same problem i had before.. and is still happening.

Usually when i turn on my system, after being off for a while (cool) it boot up.. but it freeze after a few min, sometimes right a way... and after that is when i get the 3rl with the 0102 code. Just want to let you know my system behavior before this Mod.. and well... after too.

I´m still getting freezing and 3rl.

Right now i´m overheating the system a bit longer than 2 min... just to see if it make a difference.

I though maybe doing this could fix it, but it didn´t , at least so far

any ideas what else i could try?

also while i was waiting until the system overheat i notice that after 3 or 4 min after getting the 2rl overheating warning the powersupply went to Orange. So how people could overheat this thing for more than 4 min if the system itself is powering off automatically? the Heatsink were still HOT, but if the PW were Orange this means the PSU was at stand by, this lead me to think that the PSU wasn´t giving any power to the Xbox360 so the 360 weren´t getting any hotter.

So my question is.. 4 min is the longer you can overheat a system?

Any ideas? what could be or what i could try? could my system need more overheating? (sounds crazy saying this lol)

thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: blue_calx on April 25, 2007, 09:59:00 PM

count me as a success. got all the parts at Ace Hardware (home depot sucks)

Played 3 hours tonight...everything is fine now. Only had to overheat it for like a minute too.

Thanks lawdawg!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: waxx9299 on April 25, 2007, 10:00:00 PM

i think both lawdawg's and rbj's method is promising..

ive been trying to figure out the best fix... so far the longest i did was 4 months before it re 3RLed.. (but not on their method)

the board flexing theory is the most logical theory, and although here in my side of the planet, we dont have a lowes or a home depot. i get my parts from a local hardware store..so the best way to get the proper parts for me is either have a friend in the USA send me samples of flat and nylon washers.. the bolts i have no problem... actually i can post pictures of the type of bolts im using and they fit just right with the thread of the cpu and the gpu...

now my only problem is computing the actual height of the mobo and the cpu/gpu die where the heatsink make contact... anybody of you have an idea?

(IMG:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/225/473151525_338a418aea_o.gif)

and here's a photo of the bolts and spring washer that i have.. i get them cheap..very cheap

(IMG:http://farm1.static.flickr.com/220/473151529_7972416e52.jpg)

This post has been edited by waxx9299: Apr 26 2007, 05:06 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on April 25, 2007, 10:35:00 PM

QUOTE(waxx9299 @ Apr 25 2007, 08:31 PM)

now my only problem is computing the actual height of the mobo and the cpu/gpu die where the heatsink make contact... anybody of you have an idea?

I used a #10 nylon washer, and M5 washer, these pretty much gave me the right height between the HS and the motherboard. I just tightened down all 4 corners 1/4 turn at a time till they got tight.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 26, 2007, 02:10:00 PM

mine is a no no...

it boots ok.. then when i try to play games after several min it freeze.
so far i didn't get the 3 rls after rebooting, but it kept freezing after 5 or 10 min into the game.

Last night i left the console on the dash for around a 1hr and it worked fine. But when playing games it freeze after 5 or 10 min.

Could be that my Heatsinks are not that thight?
i´m really afraid of breaking the cores so i didn´t tight them too much... i did a very smal force on the screw driver and if i felt i had to do a little more preassure i stoped and went to the next one.

Should i try tightening the bolts ?

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 26 2007, 09:21 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: blue_calx on April 26, 2007, 02:35:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 26 2007, 03:41 PM)

That what was happening to my xbox360 just before it gave me the 3rlod.

It would be fine playing movies, music, or just in the dash. Even in the title menus of games it was fine. But the moment loaded a level it would hard lock. It was only time till i got the 3rlod.

The fix worked for me and i didn't have to overheat it for long (about two minutes).

Maybe you still have a bad solder connection. Maybe get a heat gun and try resoldering that way. Though you did mention that you knocked parts off the motherboard; so it might be gone for good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Good luck though.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 26, 2007, 02:12:00 PM

QUOTE(blue_calx @ Apr 26 2007, 09:06 PM)

Good luck though.

i have 3 capacitors out from the motherboard... but i read those are not critical, besides i was able to play for 20 days without those capacitors. (these capacitors were already gone after i sent my 360 for repairs).

I really don´t think those are the problem.

and i never had 3rl everytime i turn the system on. I had the 3rl after freezing, now i´m not getting the 3l after freezing just freezing... so maybe i´m 1 step forward than i used to be.. lol

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 26, 2007, 03:29:00 PM

just got the 3rl... error code 0102.

i´m doing the towel fix too see if i can overheat the system a bit longer.. maybe i´m still having some transistors with loose connection.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darthjuky on April 26, 2007, 07:24:00 PM

My box today has the three lights of death. I tried to repeat the process. No luck. Still three lights of death.

Not sure what to try at this point. Any suggestions?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 26, 2007, 06:49:00 PM

QUOTE(darthjuky @ Apr 27 2007, 01:55 AM)

My box today has the three lights of death. I tried to repeat the process. No luck. Still three lights of death.

Not sure what to try at this point. Any suggestions?

what error code are you getting?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Dmetal420 on April 26, 2007, 08:12:00 PM

Well guys chalk me up as another success. I'm actually shocked it was that easy, im not the least bit mechanically inclined! My 360 worked for 1.5 years with no problems then bricked last week. Followed this guide step by step and its running as good as new. Thank you Lawdawg for this guide!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 26, 2007, 07:53:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 26 2007, 04:00 PM)

just got the 3rl... error code 0102.

i´m doing the towel fix too see if i can overheat the system a bit longer.. maybe i´m still having some transistors with loose connection.

If you're experiencing freezing video, then most likely your problem is in the GPU. I would recommend taking a look at how tight it is, then take the GPU heatsink off & look at your imprint of the AS5. Make sure that it is tightening down enough to spread the AS5 completely across the GPU. I've also seen that people have put a fiber washer out on each corner of the GPU case (see RBJTech's drawing on page 4). This helps seat the GPU sometimes, but you have to ensure that the heatsink is still making good contact with the die.
You could also move the DVD drive off to the side, and use an external fan directed onto the GPU heatsink. See if this stops the freezing, then you'll know where your problem is.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 26, 2007, 09:25:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 27 2007, 03:00 AM)

well little update... it´s been a long day... i didn´t go to work, today because i have flu. So i spent the whole day with the 360.

This is the story. Yesterday after my 1st boot i got my system freeze at the intro.... no red lights, just freeze.

So i did the overheating, this time i did it corrrectly, took around 4 min to overheat and after that i left it until the psu went orange (4 min).

I guess those 4min wasn´t enough. But also.. i remember i didn´t tighten the screws, because again i was really scared of broken or damaging the cpu/gpu.

Anyways, after tighten the screws a bit, not much just a tad.. and doing the overheating.. i was able to pass the xbox intro, i left the xbox on the dash for around an 1hr and everything works fine.
I went to bed very happy..

Today i got up, i tried a game,to make a real test on the system, i left a demo game for around 15 min.. but after 5 or 10 min into the game, the system froze... i couldn´t pass 10 min without freezing the system.

There was a problem...

i tried to ran the demo a few more times, and same results, the demo froze between 5 to 10 mins.. After my 3rd attempt i got the 3rl again.. (this was the first time after doing the x clamp replacement). Same code, 0102.

At this point i remember someone who said that he did the towel trick after doing the X clamp to help soldering those lose transistors, because the 2/4 min overhating technique wasn´t enough for his system. So i took 2 towels and did the same thing.. i left it for 20 min.. after that, i left the system cool down... and i re open the system and tighten the screws, but this time i did it really tight.. i even put some pressure on those bolts.

then i rebuilt the 360 again and tried.. so far so good.

i left the demo for around 30 min, no freezing (before i couldn´t play it for more than 10 min before).
then i turned the system off for 2 min, and turned back on, again , played the demo for 30 min.. no problem.

After this i turned the system off... and wait a few hs.. then i turned the system on and played virtua tennis3 demo por 20 min.. no freezing either. After this i played condemend for 30 min.. no freeze.

So i end up playing the system for 2hs total... and the system didn´t freeze, no red lights either.

Maybe is luck, but since i wasn´t able to past more than 10 min without freezing.. i guess i may did something right.

I don´t know if the problem was the system still got some loose soldering... or, if the bolts weren´t tight enough, or maybe both... but so far the system is working...

i´m wondering for how long....

btw i added 2 more coolers.. 1 on the sides throwing freesh air to the system and 1 on the back helping the stock fans to take the hot air outside the system. both at .12v

tomorro i´ll do some more testing but if i finnish the day without a problem, then i´ll be able to say my system is working again.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaniloMQ on April 27, 2007, 03:44:00 PM

I tried the clamp mod 3 times on a x360 that came to me for 0102 repair... and it would work fine but lock up after a few minutes of playing... so this mod fixed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

For thos interested, just made 2 holes with my dremmel and a 2.5mm tip

screwed the fan and soldered on the 12v below power plug

(IMG:http://img7.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Pacote/x360/x360fix_19.jpg)

(IMG:http://img7.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Pacote/x360/x360fix_20.jpg)

Ps: its a 70x70mm Brushless Delta fan...

This post has been edited by DaniloMQ: Apr 27 2007, 10:47 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sirsmooth on April 27, 2007, 04:35:00 PM

A few questions..
Screwed the fan to what?
And what size fan, 60mm?
how did you keep it on a slant?

Cheers Smooth

This post has been edited by sirsmooth: Apr 27 2007, 11:35 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SnufftheCrimeDog on April 27, 2007, 04:11:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 26 2007, 11:32 PM)

well little update... it´s been a long day... i didn´t go to work, today because i have flu. So i spent the whole day with the 360.

This is the story. Yesterday after my 1st boot i got my system freeze at the intro.... no red lights, just freeze.
So i did the overheating, this time i did it corrrectly, took around 4 min to overheat and after that i left it until the psu went orange (4 min).

I guess those 4min wasn´t enough. But also.. i remember i didn´t tighten the screws, because again i was really scared of broken or damaging the cpu/gpu.

Anyways, after tighten the screws a bit, not much just a tad.. and doing the overheating.. i was able to pass the xbox intro, i left the xbox on the dash for around an 1hr and everything works fine.
I went to bed very happy..
Today i got up, i tried a game,to make a real test on the system, i left a demo game for around 15 min.. but after 5 or 10 min into the game, the system froze... i couldn´t pass 10 min without freezing the system.

There was a problem...

i tried to ran the demo a few more times, and same results, the demo froze between 5 to 10 mins.. After my 3rd attempt i got the 3rl again.. (this was the first time after doing the x clamp replacement). Same code, 0102.

At this point i remember someone who said that he did the towel trick after doing the X clamp to help soldering those lose transistors, because the 2/4 min overhating technique wasn´t enough for his system. So i took 2 towels and did the same thing.. i left it for 20 min.. after that, i left the system cool down... and i re open the system and tighten the screws, but this time i did it really tight.. i even put some pressure on those bolts.

then i rebuilt the 360 again and tried.. so far so good.

i left the demo for around 30 min, no freezing (before i couldn´t play it for more than 10 min before).
then i turned the system off for 2 min, and turned back on, again , played the demo for 30 min.. no problem.

After this i turned the system off... and wait a few hs.. then i turned the system on and played virtua tennis3 demo por 20 min.. no freezing either. After this i played condemend for 30 min.. no freeze.

So i end up playing the system for 2hs total... and the system didn´t freeze, no red lights either.

Maybe is luck, but since i wasn´t able to past more than 10 min without freezing.. i guess i may did something right.

I don´t know if the problem was the system still got some loose soldering... or, if the bolts weren´t tight enough, or maybe both... but so far the system is working...

i´m wondering for how long....

Well I'm glad yours is working, So I have now fixed 3 360s so far, and two outta of 3 have had the same problem one was using RBJTechs method and one was using Lawdawgs. I had a bear of a time getting the one I just fixed recently to work, because every time i would make it "snug" I would get graphical freezes, so I did exactly what you did, overheat and tighten them down tight, now not so tight that like the board was about to snap, but that the nuts would not move unless you forced them. This solved the problem, and my friend who performed Lawdawgs tut, started doing the same thing, he tightened them down again tight enough that the bolt would not move unless you really forced it too. I'm happy to say both are working fine now. So I thinking really giving those bolts a good tightening may fix this problem.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaniloMQ on April 27, 2007, 04:22:00 PM

QUOTE(sirsmooth @ Apr 27 2007, 11:06 PM)

A few questions..
Screwed the fan to what?
And what size fan, 60mm?
how did you keep it on a slant?

Cheers Smooth

Drilled 2 holes on the case, in the part where you put the wireless dongle

and drilled the plastic side of the fan

so with screws made to use on plastic i got the fan 100% tight throwing air below the dvd drive, right into the gpu

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 27, 2007, 04:42:00 PM

QUOTE(DaniloMQ @ Apr 27 2007, 05:29 PM)

Any chance you could show where you drilled? I'm still not sure where you are talking about. Thanks DaniloMQ

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaniloMQ on April 27, 2007, 05:17:00 PM

Call me pacote

Tomorrow i will buy more fans , then i take some pics of the next mod i do and post here

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 27, 2007, 05:44:00 PM

QUOTE(DaniloMQ @ Apr 28 2007, 12:24 AM)

Call me pacote

Tomorrow i will buy more fans , then i take some pics of the next mod i do and post here

Pacote, that would be really cool.

QUOTE(SnufftheCrimeDog @ Apr 27 2007, 11:18 PM)

yeah today i left a game play by himself for around 40 min... and it didn´t freeze. so it´s still working. Before i wasn´t able to play longer than 10 min without getting a freeze.

I think the overheating (with the towel) also helped. Maybe the 2min overhating the system wasn´t enough to sold those loose solderings.

Now i hope those solderings don´t get loose again, but this is the whole concept with this mod, i guess. to avoid those soldering getting loose.

We will see how it goes.. so far i´m not sure to say it´s fix it. But.. so far is stable and running.. i hope it stay that way.

about how tight the bolts should be....I believe the bolts have to be really really tight... this help to keep the die cool.

I remember the first time i turned my system on, it froze at the intro... and after that i got the 3rl, the bolts were very "loose" because i was afraid to overtight them and break the die or the mobo.. but then.. i tighten the bolts a bit more, not much just a bit more and then i was able to leave the 360 on the dash for 2hs.. without freezing, but every time i wanted to play a game it froze after 5 to 10 min.
So i tighten even more and also i did the Towel trick to make sure there was not soldering loose on the system, and now it´s working perfectly.

I don´t want to talk to much because i´m afraid to speak too soon

Cross fingers.. so far so good.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: brywalker on April 27, 2007, 08:20:00 PM

I suppose my fix would be closest to this one so I will post my results on the latest real quick.

Guitar Hero Update Death.

Locked up EVERY TIME. Just starting a song. Maybe get 1/2 through - hard lock. Reboot - won't even get to the dash.

Did the fix.

Played through a dozen songs with no problem.

The fix works. I don't agree with a few of the things in these two methods, but they all accomplish the same general goal.

This post has been edited by brywalker: Apr 28 2007, 03:21 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 27, 2007, 07:49:00 PM

QUOTE(brywalker @ Apr 28 2007, 02:51 AM)

so you were getting video freezing as well?... even at the 360 logo?

when you say fix.. what fix do you mean, the x clamp replacement?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaniloMQ on April 28, 2007, 04:08:00 PM

The portuguese-brt tutorial is done, will try to write an english one and post here today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This post has been edited by DaniloMQ: Apr 28 2007, 11:10 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 28, 2007, 03:49:00 PM

QUOTE(DaniloMQ @ Apr 28 2007, 11:08 PM)

The portuguese-brt tutorial is done, will try to write an english one and post here today

pacote,
could you link me to the protugues forum ?

thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaniloMQ on April 28, 2007, 03:52:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 28 2007, 11:25 PM)

pacote,
could you link me to the protugues forum ?

thanks

This is the official link of mine topic

http://forum.jogos.u...c.php?t=1174425

you can find the link to the PacoFREEZE (hell yeah, i named my mod lol) in the first post

but rest assured that i will post a english tutorial here

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ElDom on April 28, 2007, 06:42:00 PM

Tried it, no go.
Apparently a dead cap, how do I know which one?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 28, 2007, 08:35:00 PM

QUOTE(ElDom @ Apr 28 2007, 07:42 PM)

Tried it, no go.
Apparently a dead cap, how do I know which one?

Give a little bit more info than that....Tried what?, what happened (red lights, freezing). How did you determine it was a dead cap?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 29, 2007, 12:21:00 AM

QUOTE(DaniloMQ @ Apr 28 2007, 11:28 PM)

pacote,
a few questions..

how high are those washers you are using.. and how many did u used?

nice post by the way

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FrostyTheSnowman on April 29, 2007, 12:33:00 AM

SUCCESS!

Well, success with one 3RL machine that belonged to a friend, and I also did it to my own (which already worked properly) just for good measure.

I did, however, knock off a small capacitor on top of the GPU, but the XBOX 360 still works fine. I'm willing to bet that all the capacitor did was filter one of the data lines, which isn't a huge deal on just one data line.

Here's the capacitor I broke: (circled in red)

IPB Image

So basically, I just made one data line on the GPU 'dirty', and might be getting a small amount of noise. But, I can't see any difference visually (and believe me, i've looked), so i'm not really going to worry about it.

I do however want to note though that the 12v fan mod is EXTREMELY loud, regardless of what anyone says. IT IS LOUD. However, it does do a great job of cooling the 360, so i'm going to leave it on.

I recommend that ANYONE with an XBOX 360 do this mod just as preventive maintenance, as the original X-clamps suck at cooling, and are even worse to work with...

Thanks for the great tutorial lawdawg0931!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaniloMQ on April 29, 2007, 02:00:00 AM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 29 2007, 07:57 AM)

pacote,
a few questions..

how high are those washers you are using.. and how many did u used?

nice post by the way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Used one on each side

oh, and this is the tutorial in english (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=600414

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 29, 2007, 02:57:00 AM

ok.. after 3 days..i can say i have a working 360.. (knocking wood). I played thursday (2hs), friday(6hs) and saturday (4hs)...

On the other hand i´m not sure what it fix my 360. Because after i did the x Clamp replacement, i also did the Towel trick.

So the question is... I may be experiencing the temporary fix from the towel trick or this have to be the "promising" x clamp fix. ?????

What do you think?

On the other hand, i believe the Towel trick was needed to sold, those already broken/loose solderings wich gave me the 3rls and the 0102 code and the X clamp should avoid these soldering to break again. (i tried the overheating fix from the tutorial but those 2 min wasn´t enough)

i´m correct? Is the the idea/concept ?

if i did the X-clamp correctly i "shouldn´t" get loose solders again, i´m correct?

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 29 2007, 10:04 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on April 29, 2007, 04:53:00 AM

Decided to do that X-clamp removal system today.

Used 5/12's metric hex screws (nut/bolt, but used bolt part).

(IMG:http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2140/mg6694np9.jpg)

And some nylon washers.

(IMG:http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8854/mg6695vi0.jpg)

Here's the deviation to the normal plan. Make the nylon washers brace up against the board, so no matter how much I torque these screws, the board will stay level.

(IMG:http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/3135/mg6703jm3.jpg)

Another look

(IMG:http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/3821/mg6704hy0.jpg)

** The only problem I have is I can't find the damn AS5 stick of mine. So I got stuck with some old white stuff, and that only lasted for about 10 minutes before the box overheats... I'll refine this one I guess. (didn't need to modify the GPU HS at all with this. so that might be a problem too. )

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: delcano on April 29, 2007, 07:02:00 AM

Hi! Yesterday out of desperation (and warranty), I tried this method to fix the 3 red lights. Oddly enough looks like I didn't screw up and it works! However, I also put a Whisper Fan and whereas before the ·LOD the GPU used to be at 54-55 tops, now it's at 59-60.
What can cause that? Not enough thermal paste? Badly placed GPU temperature sensor wire? And can I keep going with those figures or am I risking another 3 LOD?

Thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 29, 2007, 09:36:00 AM

QUOTE(delcano @ Apr 29 2007, 08:02 AM)

First thing I would do is check the imprint of the AS5, making sure it is spreading it completely when tightening down. Second is to do some of the cooling mods from RBJTech

@Bravoexo
I wouldn't deviate from the tutorial (other than the # of washers just on top of the mobo) as measurements have been checked & rechecked - which is CRITICALLY important.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 29, 2007, 01:14:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 29 2007, 09:57 AM)

anyone can answer my question... i´m still in the fence here.. should i be happy or it may be the towel temp fix?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ElDom on April 29, 2007, 02:24:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 29 2007, 04:11 AM)

Give a little bit more info than that....Tried what?, what happened (red lights, freezing). How did you determine it was a dead cap?

I did the replacement, but still, as soon as I hit the power button, Mr. 3 RLoD visits me.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on April 29, 2007, 02:50:00 PM

QUOTE(ElDom @ Apr 29 2007, 02:00 PM)

I did the replacement, but still, as soon as I hit the power button, Mr. 3 RLoD visits me.

Did you overheat the board to reflow the solder joints that caused the problems in the first place? Read the whole tutorial. I actually used the towel method to get the thing hot enough. Mine has been going for 3+ weeks now.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 29, 2007, 03:55:00 PM

QUOTE(jameswalter @ Apr 29 2007, 10:26 PM)

exaclty.. i had to do the same thing...i tried with the 2 min overheating but it wasn´t enough. Then i did the towel trick and is working.. only 4 days so far.. but before i wasn´t able to play longer than 5 min without freezing or getting the 3ls.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SnufftheCrimeDog on April 29, 2007, 05:04:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 29 2007, 09:57 AM) *

ok.. after 3 days..i can say i have a working 360.. (knocking wood). I played thursday (2hs), friday(6hs) and saturday (4hs)...

On the other hand i´m not sure what it fix my 360. Because after i did the x Clamp replacement, i also did the Towel trick.

So the question is... I may be experiencing the temporary fix from the towel trick or this have to be the "promising" x clamp fix. ?????

What do you think?

On the other hand, i believe the Towel trick was needed to sold, those already broken/loose solderings wich gave me the 3rls and the 0102 code and the X clamp should avoid these soldering to break again. (i tried the overheating fix from the tutorial but those 2 min wasn´t enough)

i´m correct? Is the the idea/concept ?

if i did the X-clamp correctly i "shouldn´t" get loose solders again, i´m correct?

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 29 2007, 03:50 PM)

anyone can answer my question... i´m still in the fence here.. should i be happy or it may be the towel temp fix?

The towel trick is very very temporary, I personally have never used it, but the way it works is warms up the solder, but because you didnt actually melt the solder,it will just become loose again in a few days of hardcore gaming. The towel trick will never work for more then a week. So if your systems passes a weeks test then I give it the thumbs up.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 29, 2007, 07:01:00 PM

QUOTE(SnufftheCrimeDog @ Apr 30 2007, 12:04 AM)

thanks,
Hmmm i don´t think i can follow.

So how i´m suppouse to get those solders melt ? I did the "overheating" technique from Dawg tutorial but it wasn´t enough... since i was still getting the 3rl and freezing. after x clamp and overheating technique.

Then i did the towel trick and also i tighten the bolts very tight... i guess they weren´t tight enough before. Since then my system have been working without a problem for 4 days.. and running.

What should be the right "step" to melt the solders instead of warms the soldering? (remember the 2 min overheating from the tutorial didn´t work on my case).

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 30 2007, 02:07 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darthjuky on April 29, 2007, 07:03:00 PM

Hello Everyone,

I had the three lights of death visit me after it worked for a almost 5 days.

I would like to update my status. I got the 360 working again by doing the towel trick for 20 minutes. I had done the towel trick before this and it did not last but for a few hours. I never could get it to go to 2 Lights trying to over heat it so this mod must help it cool better. I did not disconnect the fan using the towel trick. I let it go for 20 minutes and Immediately powered it down. I then powered it up while it was hot and it booted.

One thing I did when I rechecked the the screws where the xclamp was, is that I tightened them as tight as I could get them. Almost to the point I was worried about cracking the mother board.

In short, It works again. We played for 6 hours saturday night.

We are up an running. Thanks again everyone and lawdawg. Booker, glad to hear you got it going.

Again, Thanks Lawdawg.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 29, 2007, 06:35:00 PM

QUOTE(darthjuky @ Apr 30 2007, 02:03 AM)

for some reason i feel i´ll see the 3 rl in my 360 soon..

Could someone read this and tell me what i did wrong?..

My system was freezing every now and then... sometimes it freeze at the intro.. others it took 10 min... and after freezing when i restart the system i got the 0102 3rl.

I did this "mod fix".. i replace the X clamp as the tutorial explains.. i used 2 Washers and the first try i didn´t tight the bolts at all... i actually tighten by hand (i was afraid of breaking the cpu/gpu or mobo).
i did the overheating.. wait unitl i got the 2rl.. and then i left it until the psu turned orange (3 min).

My first boot, the system froze at the 360 intro logo.
restarted.. and i got the 3rl.. so what i did was...

i tight the bolts.. this time with the screwdriver..but this time i got the bolts really tight...but still i left some room...

next boot, it booted perfectly... i left it on the Dash for 2hs.. without a problem.

the next day i played a game and after 10 min.. it froze...
same thing.. after 10 min froze... and got the 3rl again.. 0102 code.

this is when i did 2 things..

the towel trick.. and this time i tighten the bolts as hard as i could. really really tight... i didn´t even care if my system break (kidding) but it was really tight...

boot.. and played for 2hs... the next day 4hs.. the next 5hs... until today ...i played 2 more hs... and so far the system is up and running.

so my question is.. what i did wrong... if doing the towel trick was a bad move, how i´m suppose to "melt" or get those solderings solder again?

let keep my finger crossed

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mndmelter on April 29, 2007, 08:11:00 PM

(2) I eagerly followed the instructions given and the xbox fired up promptly. But Know the screen freezes on start-up, during a game, with or with-out my hard drive in it. or even a game for that much. My screens turns a shade darker and there are lines running vertically on my screen. The xbox is warm but not hot. I am glad that I repaired the 3 lights but know its this. Thanks for the tutorial. If anyone has had this experience (lines on the screen please reply back. thanks. I love the smell off burnt electronics in the mornin.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 29, 2007, 09:36:00 PM

QUOTE(mndmelter @ Apr 30 2007, 03:11 AM)

check those bolts/nuts the HS may not be that "tight".

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: langnao on April 30, 2007, 02:25:00 AM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 30 2007, 09:11 AM)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

for some reason i feel i´ll see the 3 rl in my 360 soon..

Could someone read this and tell me what i did wrong?..

My system was freezing every now and then... sometimes it freeze at the intro.. others it took 10 min... and after freezing when i restart the system i got the 0102 3rl.

I did this "mod fix".. i replace the X clamp as the tutorial explains.. i used 2 Washers and the first try i didn´t tight the bolts at all... i actually tighten by hand (i was afraid of breaking the cpu/gpu or mobo).
i did the overheating.. wait unitl i got the 2rl.. and then i left it until the psu turned orange (3 min).

My first boot, the system froze at the 360 intro logo.
restarted.. and i got the 3rl.. so what i did was...

i tight the bolts.. this time with the screwdriver..but this time i got the bolts really tight...but still i left some room...

next boot, it booted perfectly... i left it on the Dash for 2hs.. without a problem.

the next day i played a game and after 10 min.. it froze...
same thing.. after 10 min froze... and got the 3rl again.. 0102 code.

this is when i did 2 things..

the towel trick.. and this time i tighten the bolts as hard as i could. really really tight... i didn´t even care if my system break (kidding) but it was really tight...

boot.. and played for 2hs... the next day 4hs.. the next 5hs... until today ...i played 2 more hs... and so far the system is up and running.

so my question is.. what i did wrong... if doing the towel trick was a bad move, how i´m suppose to "melt" or get those solderings solder again?

let keep my finger crossed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Somehow I feel it is not a permanent fix ... Anyway, you can try the other X-Clamp removal where the mobo is pressed down to the metal casing to prevent any flexing. My old console was completely dead and i couldn't try the other method (last tried was this method). I tried tightening the bolts, etc. When everything was loosen, I could see my board already bent beyond hope....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RiPpN-N-TrIppN on April 30, 2007, 05:54:00 AM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 30 2007, 02:01 AM)

the towel can go alot longer then 4 days
the towel had my box going for a good 3 weeks before she died again
i replaced the thermal paste with some AS5 got a good few weeks error free just starting to mess up a little now
going to give this method a try probally tomorrow see how it turns out
but if this x clamp replacement is the actual solution to the 3ROD then by just having them replaced should hopefully mean that the box should stay error free as long as you can get it to boot up right ?
Rip

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FrostyTheSnowman on April 30, 2007, 09:28:00 AM

Alright, here's a question...

Has anyone else noticed a weird 'wave'-like interference when running at 1080i? It's barely noticable, but I can tell it is there. I have resoldered and repaired the capacitor I broke on my GPU, but it has had no effect on this 'wave'-like interference at 1080i...

So, i'm wondering if it is something else. Has anyone else noticed this?

NOTE: This 'interference' does not happen at ANY other resolution, ONLY 1080i. All other resolutions (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080p) work fine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 30, 2007, 09:00:00 AM

QUOTE(RiPpN-N-TrIppN @ Apr 30 2007, 01:30 PM)

oh well...i´ll play until the 360 break again..i´m a bit tire of this "crap". If the 360 works, fine if it get the 3rl... bye bye.. this is enough i did all i can do.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Carkus on April 30, 2007, 09:50:00 AM

Thanks Lawdawg0931 and RBJtech for both your tutorials.

I read both, and performed the mod over the weekend.

So far its all working well.

I've taken pic's of the whole process, but dont have anywhere to upload my guide/pictures to. Anyone got any webspace I can post it to? PM me.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=MPSX8P2H
May have exceeded download limit already, as im not a member...

Thanks again.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 30, 2007, 10:01:00 AM

QUOTE(RiPpN-N-TrIppN @ Apr 30 2007, 01:30 PM)

So you did the 3xclamp and still got the 3rl after 3 weeks?

What´s the poing of doing the X clamp? i though the X clamp were the reason why the Solder get loose. If you do the X clamp,m the solders shouldn´t get loose... but they still do ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
You do the towel trick to overheat the system and fix those loose solders... and then the X clamp replacement should make the Solders don´t get loose.

What i´m missing here?

It would be cool to make a 2nd poll asking of those who did the X clamp and voted as a FIX if they got the 3l again. because i bet those 90 votes, some saw the 3l again...

I´m not being negative, i´m just freaking out... and a bit mad already... with MS... of course.

This post has been edited by booker: Apr 30 2007, 05:03 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 30, 2007, 10:11:00 AM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 30 2007, 11:01 AM)

What´s the point of doing the X clamp? i though the X clamp were the reason why the Solder get loose. If you do the X clamp,m the solders shouldn´t get loose... but they still do ?

The X-clamps were probably the reason the BMG-style soldering didn't hold in the first place, but once damage has been done (ie compromised connections) - then removing the X clamps won't fix the damage done. It just keeps the board from flexing. That's why some people have to overheat for 2 minutes, that's why some people have to do the towel trick, that's why still others have to have a professional BMG reflow service. Everyones damage isn't going to be the same. For most, just removing the flexing tends to make good connections again. For others - you just gotta find what works for you....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on April 30, 2007, 11:07:00 AM

QUOTE(Carkus @ Apr 30 2007, 08:50 AM)

Dude, thanks for those pics. I've been meaning to ask someone if they can provide pictures along the way of the fixing process.

Kudos again man (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 30, 2007, 10:36:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 30 2007, 05:47 PM)

That´s my point.. so i did nothing wrong.. it was fine to do the Towel trick, after then?...
After doing the towel trick and tighten the Bolts, really tight my system have been working for 4days.. before this i couldn´t play for longer than 5 min.

If i did the X clamp replacement correcltly.. i shouldn´t get those soldering loose again?

I´m correct?

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ Apr 30 2007, 06:07 PM)

Dude, thanks for those pics. I've been meaning to ask someone if they can provide pictures along the way of the fixing process.

Kudos again man

Do i have to register?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mattygabe on April 30, 2007, 01:24:00 PM

QUOTE(polarz @ Apr 23 2007, 11:36 PM)

Well, as I stated way back on April 2, 2007 I would keep track of my progress. So far, the fix is working gloriously for my box. As for your comment that it doesn't work after sitting... That is not my experience whatsoever.

My 360 actually spent a few days packed up in a bookbag, and did some traveling here and there in that entire month. It's not to say it hasn't had its fair share of use, however. Recently my fiancee and I bought Viva Pinata and have been playing it for hours at a time. Also, Night at the Museum was played in its entirety on the box last night, which is what I understand one of the more strenuous activities you can push the 360's hardware to do. Not a single burp along the way. I will keep everyone posted most likely in another month, but so far I am happy with the results.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 30, 2007, 08:04:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 30 2007, 12:12 PM)

If i did the X clamp replacement correcltly.. i shouldn´t get those soldering loose again?

I´m correct?

All I know is that several people have had working Xbox's for weeks (close to a month now) after removing the X clamps. I fixed two, but I have a box that continued to give me problems after I did the X-clamp mod. Then I did the fan shroud mod, then the 12v mod, then put heatsinks on the southbridge & front ram chips, then cut a hole in the bottom case & put a 12v fan there.... it still gave me problems. Sometimes the flexing apparently caused enough damage to the BMG process that only a professional reflow can help. If you feel that you've done all you can to your 360, & you still are getting red lights or freezing - at least give RBJTech's method a go next, to see if that holds things together better for you. If all else fails, send it to a professional for a proper reflow.

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: May 1 2007, 03:06 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on April 30, 2007, 08:18:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 1 2007, 03:04 AM)

well thanks.. i won´t go that far ahead. I´m still having my system up n running after doing this x clamp replacement.

I just want to be sure with you and with other people who tried this mod, if my actions were correct or if i did wrong on overheating the system with the towel trick.

Also i wanted to learn how this X clamp work and if i had the idea/concept right.

Because so far.. my system is going in the right track.

Let hope it stay there

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: langnao on April 30, 2007, 08:29:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 1 2007, 12:47 AM)

Hi, I believe it is a couple of things acting together. First of all is the X-clamp that is not the best way to mount a heat sink. Not to mention low quality mobo and also heat dissipating design of the box inside....

Like you said, each person damage is different and everyone operating environment is different too. Thus some will have better result than others ...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Frostbite on April 30, 2007, 08:36:00 PM

I bought a broken 360 with the 3 rings of light in hopes of fixing it to get a cheap working 360 and this tutorial of yours made it possible. I had no luck whatsoever with the heat gun trick but this did the job. Thank you for sharing this valuable piece of information.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Carkus on April 30, 2007, 09:07:00 PM

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RiPpN-N-TrIppN on April 30, 2007, 09:51:00 PM

ok well i just went out and bought the shite needed to do this following dvsone's part listing coz im a Aussie
the parts where as follows
2 x Dan's Premium C/S MT Screws & Nuts Size 3/16x1/2 (Qty: 5 per packet)
2 x Zenith Flat Washers 3/16 (Qty: 25 per packet)
i found the washers ok but i coudlnt find the MT Screws the dude in bunnings didnt no what they where
but he did point me to these
IPB Image

can some one please tell me if these are the correct ones
cheers in advance
Rip

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvsone on April 30, 2007, 10:24:00 PM

QUOTE

ok well i just went out and bought the shite needed to do this following dvsone\'s part listing coz im a Aussie
the parts where as follows
2 x Dan\'s Premium C/S MT Screws & Nuts Size 3/16x1/2 (Qty: 5 per packet)
2 x Zenith Flat Washers 3/16 (Qty: 25 per packet)
i found the washers ok but i coudlnt find the MT Screws the dude in bunnings didnt no what they where
but he did point me to these
IPB Image

can some one please tell me if these are the correct ones
cheers in advance
Rip

Those screws aren\'t right. I tried those, and they are too long. I got mine from Bunnings Southport QLD.

Here\'s the serial number for the Dan\'s Premium MT Screws I used: 329437 000317

Best of luck.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RiPpN-N-TrIppN on April 30, 2007, 10:40:00 PM

couldnt i just put a few extra washes on the bottom of the board to fill in the extra space ??
if so any ideas on how many i would need
im stuck at work atm so i dont have anything to compare it too
cheers
Rip

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on May 01, 2007, 02:39:00 AM

QUOTE(Carkus @ May 1 2007, 04:43 AM)

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.

Excelent Guide!
I wish this were available when i did the X clamp

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvsone on May 01, 2007, 05:02:00 AM

QUOTE

See image below. Zenith of the left and Dans Premium on the right. There is quite a big difference between the 2 screws. Because Dans is counter sunken the actual length of the screw area is only about 8mm, where as the Zenith is 12mm.

IPB Image

Using Dans:

On the CPU: 3 washers on top and 3 on the bottom
On the GPU: 2 washers on top and 3 on the bottom

You would probably need something crazy like 6 or 7 washers on the bottom to make the Zenith work. And its probable the screws are too long and will push the motherboard to far off the bottom of the case.

Heres a picture of Dans packaging if you want to have another look for them at Bunnings.

IPB Image

Or you could cut the screws to size like Carkus did. Check out his tutorial.

QUOTE

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.

Great work Carkus.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 01, 2007, 09:03:00 AM

QUOTE(RiPpN-N-TrIppN @ May 1 2007, 12:16 AM)

Also I don't think those will screw straight into the threads in the heatsink.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on May 01, 2007, 09:09:00 AM

QUOTE(Carkus @ May 1 2007, 04:43 AM)

Updated URL for my guide on doing this fix, with pictures.

http://users.tpg.com.au/adsla7hl/XBOX%20360%203RLOD%20FIX-Carkus.pdf

Thanks.

Question, so the motherboard ain't connected to the metal case anymore on those 8 points? Isn't that dangerous? (I remember that board flexes quite a bit when I held it in my hand with the heatsinks on.)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on May 01, 2007, 09:58:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 29 2007, 05:12 PM)

@Bravoexo
I wouldn't deviate from the tutorial (other than the # of washers just on top of the mobo) as measurements have been checked & rechecked - which is CRITICALLY important.

Hi lawdawg,

Great tutorial btw. Do you think my assumption on the washers I got is acceptable?

IPB Image

Technically, the point end of the original HS foot, up to the point where the X clamp latches on, is equal to the height of my washers.

I even tried doublle washers, a set on top of the board, but this time, the HS's don't get even an ounce of contact with the cpu's/gpu's. Without a 2nd set of washers, I was able to make it work (bought a stick of AS5 yesterday, and after 25 games...my box is alive still. (but it's only been 2 days though. I'll observe some more.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FrostyTheSnowman on May 01, 2007, 10:06:00 AM

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 1 2007, 09:45 AM)

If you use the EXACT parts and part numbers from Lowes that are in his tutorial, you will notice that the bolts themselves actually make contact with the shielding and still support the board just fine.

If you use any other type of part or part number, it may not make contact with the shielding.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: King Khan on May 01, 2007, 10:17:00 AM

First off I want to thank Lawdawg and everyone in this forum! Its nice to know I was not the only one suffering from the RROL. I bought my 360 in Canada in September 2006, its DOM is April 2006 - so its just turned One. Sadly its DOB and Day of Death were exactly a year apart. Here's the kicker I live in Kenya now! Yes Kenya - so even if I had my warranty it would cost me probably twice the console price to ship it to the States or Canada.

Anyways I was suffering from video freezes (even at the dash) before I got the RROL error 0102. I thought I was screwed - I did not want to use the heat gun; tried the towel trick - but I did not want to burn the insides of the the box - its pretty hot and humid here! I came across the eraser mod but I figured it would be only temporary - so I tried the x-clamp.

Finding the right screws and washers was easy - find a torx t6/7 was a whole different story. We don't get AS5 here - in fact I doubt anyone does any real PC modding here - so I used some other thermal paste - the white kind; it came with my new PC fan so I figured it would not be half bad. To the point, I recall earlier in the forum people had trouble keeping the screws in place when trying to screw them into the heat sinks. So what I did was kept the screws in place by using the x-clamp itself - I placed the screws on a table (or a board of some kind) - I know some else suggested using a book - so some credit goes to that poster - and I aligned the screws using the x-clamp. Once they were in place I took off the x-clamp from the screws and placed the board on the table ensuring that all the screws were in the mobo. I then moved it mobo to the edge of the table so that one screw was exposed so that I could tighten it snug. I repeated with all the screws and then turned the mobo vertical and tightened the screws tight. As you can see there is some use for the x-clamp - LOL.

Then I followed the Lawdawg's tutorial to a tee - and viola no RROL! I was so excited. Once I had done this I tried playing but I kept getting freezes - even at the dash after a while. So all my joy vanished - I was so tired - it took me so long to clean the original paste on the xbox - speaking of which - what a half assed job eh?

So I tried tightening the screws - fyi - if you are using a flat head screw driver (depending on your screws) - use a slightly larger one - it gives better grip and torque; but to no avail.

Now I was frustrated and feeling gutted - so I came back to the forum and read up a storm - I remember reading that adjusting the washers between the GPU heatsink and mobo could curb graphical freezes...

I removed the nylon washers and used only the metal ones ensuring that the washers were not touching anything on either side of the heatsink. I powered on the box - and behold it was not freezing; but a few minutes in I got 2 RL - Overheating. I took the mobo out and tightened the GPU screws using a larger screwdriver, put the board back in and crossed my fingers and toes.

The box worked. No freezing. No overheating. No RROL. Mind you I have only played PGR3 on 1080i for a total of 2 hours over 2 days. I was also running my mp3 player during the game.

I have a stand fan blowing a steady horizontal flow of air across the back of the xbox - that way all the hot air blowing out of the console is quickly vented away from the box. I have not had an intense gaming session yet - but so far so good - to be honest I still feel that the RROL is lingering each time I power the box on - mocking me - laughing...

But anyways - mark me as a success - 2 hours over 2 days so far is way better than RROL gathering dust.
Thank you Lawdawg - thank you all. I will keep you posted on my progress. Btw apologies for the long post - I like writing and I am new to this forum - so I want to make sure everyone who helped me is acknowledged!

Safe guys and thanks again!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 01, 2007, 10:46:00 AM

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 1 2007, 09:34 AM)

Hi lawdawg,

Great tutorial btw. Do you think my assumption on the washers I got is acceptable?

IPB Image

I think your screws are too long. You can see that the original posts sit flush with the shielding after being screwed in. You will be flexing the motherboard out because of this. I suggest you find the right size screws, or cut those down a little.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on May 01, 2007, 01:38:00 PM

update.
After 24hs of testing/plaing my system start freezing again. Not 3rl, just freezing after 5 or 10 min into the game.

I´m going to double check the process...

sad day

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jAYrAM on May 01, 2007, 04:55:00 PM

Had error 0102, When it would play it froze 10 seconds in. Went to Lowes got the screws. (2 different MI Lowes, running low on these screws) Bought thermal paste from Circuit City (AS5) Xbox works perfectly for over 3 days now! We'll see in the longrun. Thanks Lawdawg nice tutorial.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Heet on May 01, 2007, 05:11:00 PM

Frosty are you maybe seeing a ground loop? Hum bar? Thats what it sounds like to me. It is weird that it will only show up in a certain resolution.

Thats the only thing I can come up with. I had the same thing with one of my tv's.

To see if thats what it is, just disconnect the cable from your tv. As in cable company cable (coax), then see if it goes away.

Im sure you know all of this but in case you didnt

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RiPpN-N-TrIppN on May 01, 2007, 05:32:00 PM

QUOTE(dvsone @ May 1 2007, 12:38 PM)

Or you could cut the screws to size like Carkus did. Check out his tutorial.
Great work Carkus.

well i took the Zenith screws home and i first screwed Them into the heatsinks to make sure they will go in correctly
And since the heatsink is made from soft metal I also screwed them in more to make up the extra difference the longer bolts make
I then ended up putting 5 washers on the bottom and 3 on the top put it back together and she booted up fine
But then froze a few min after so I adjusted the screws till I got it right had a few games then it froze again ingame
I didnt have much time last night to play around with it but ill do some more 2night
I plan on removing all the extra washers I put on and then just going with 2 washers on top and 3 on the bottom
And the extra length from the bolts will be just screwed into the heat sink so having the longer bolts shouldnt make a difference
Ill post some pics once I get it all working
Rip

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on May 01, 2007, 05:44:00 PM

QUOTE(jameswalter @ May 1 2007, 06:22 PM)

No, my screw comes through the metal case, not just sits on it. Like this.

IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Carkus on May 01, 2007, 05:53:00 PM

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 2 2007, 02:15 AM)

Thats right. They arent secured to the RF shield, however, the height of the bolt head + washer allows the board to sit flat, with the bolt head resting on the RF shield. This should prevent any flexing.

I should note, if you dont bolt it through the RF shield, don't use your xbox in the vertical position...

If I get a 3rlod in the future, i'll probably bolt it through the RF shield.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on May 01, 2007, 06:06:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ May 1 2007, 09:14 PM)

update.
After 24hs of testing/plaing my system start freezing again. Not 3rl, just freezing after 5 or 10 min into the game.

I´m going to double check the process...

sad day

well after re doing the whole procces again, this time i made sure the board was at the same height and perfeclty flat. I also added thermal paste to the 2 Memorys near the GPU, i didn´t do that before.

So far i played 2:40hs and 0 problems.

Let see how long it will last.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SnufftheCrimeDog on May 01, 2007, 06:16:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ May 1 2007, 08:42 PM)

Whoa! Ok I would take the thermal paste off the 2 RAM chips under the heatsink. A wise person(forget there user ID) made a good point the GPU heatsink makes no connection with those two RAM chips. Therefore heat is gathering there, which could possibly cause error 0020 in the future. As far as the fix and making the board level. In my opinion just by redoing the setup,you re-tightened the bolts( I assume) and once again the GPU heatsink was sitting firmly on the GPU, hence no freezing. After a while those bolt may become loose again, and you may get a reoccurring error/freezing.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on May 01, 2007, 06:17:00 PM

QUOTE(Carkus @ May 2 2007, 01:29 AM)

I should note, if you dont bolt it through the RF shield, don't use your xbox in the vertical position...

If I get a 3rlod in the future, i'll probably bolt it through the RF shield.

Thanks. Which begs the question, has anyone tried just removing only the x-clamps, and re screw all the oem stuff? (hmm, I guess that'll peril the board coz it'll be free to flex downwards, I guess.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SnufftheCrimeDog on May 01, 2007, 06:28:00 PM

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 1 2007, 08:53 PM)

Thanks. Which begs the question, has anyone tried just removing only the x-clamps, and re screw all the oem stuff? (hmm, I guess that'll peril the board coz it'll be free to flex downwards, I guess.

I did, well sort of. I had the wrong sized washers so I got fed up and just threw the heatsinks back on with no washers....BAD IDEA...This will cause downward pressure on the board causing essentially the same hardware failure. Also, it hard to tell if one side of the heatsink is looser then the other side, especially with the CPU heatsink. So not only do washer underneath the heatsinks help prevent flexing, but it also helps you gauge how tight the heatsink are

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 01, 2007, 06:57:00 PM

QUOTE(Carkus @ May 1 2007, 05:29 PM)

I have been using mine for 3 weeks in the vertical position and didn't bolt through the RF shield. It isn't really any more "flexing" than a regular PC motherboard in the same position. When you bolt the case to the motherboard, there are still many points of contact. The problem with the X-Clamp flexing the motherboard....is that the main point of pressure was directly under the GPU/CPU.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Carkus on May 01, 2007, 08:07:00 PM

QUOTE(jameswalter @ May 2 2007, 12:03 PM)

PC motherboards generally are bolted down in multiple areas around the board, not just at the edges. Some people say the xbox board is made cheaply, so it may flex abit more than a PC motherboard, however im sure it would be minimal.

I havent actually run mine vertically since fixing my 3rlod issue, so I cant say if it causes issues or not, but I would have assumed that bolting to the case would be better than just resting on a 'spacer' which is essentially whats happening. There would be abit more force on the lower side of the cpu while vertical. The mounting supports from the xbox casing might be good enough to support the board/etc and prevent this from happening though.

I agree that the main issue is with the x-clamp. Time will tell how successful the various methods are. So far so good.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on May 01, 2007, 08:16:00 PM

PC motherboards, usually has that 1 screw slot in the middle of the board. (full ATX), while our xbox360 board are screwed in only at the edges, right?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: leorimolo on May 01, 2007, 08:27:00 PM

hey thanxs for the tut....

I have a prob I messed up one of my screws on the GPU heasink so its un removable

Does anyone think this will greatly affect thte functioning of this method.

LEo

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on May 01, 2007, 08:35:00 PM

QUOTE(leorimolo @ May 2 2007, 04:03 AM)

hey thanxs for the tut....

I have a prob I messed up one of my screws on the GPU heasink so its un removable

Does anyone think this will greatly affect thte functioning of this method.

LEo

unmovable? how about the other screws?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: langnao on May 01, 2007, 09:15:00 PM

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 2 2007, 08:20 AM)

No, my screw comes through the metal case, not just sits on it. Like this.
...

It seems like RBJtech's Method ... This to me, looks like more promissing. The board is properly rested on the four corners and its movement is kept to the minimum ...

I will do a fan mod as well to cool things down ...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on May 01, 2007, 08:47:00 PM

QUOTE(SnufftheCrimeDog @ May 2 2007, 01:52 AM)

I didn´t know the HS didn´t have contact with the Memory. But i guess is true, because originally there wasn´t any Thermal Paste on it.

I don´t know.. it may be luck.. but after i got the freezing issue, i did re tightneded the bolts.. but still the system kept freezing.

On the other hand you are right, i didn´t do much.. just add a few more washers to keep the mother flatter than before. I doubt that may be the reason..but is working.

oh well, the next time it freeze i´ll remove the Thermal paste... i´m sure i´ll see more freezing soon.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 01, 2007, 08:48:00 PM

QUOTE(leorimolo @ May 1 2007, 10:03 PM)

hey thanxs for the tut....

I have a prob I messed up one of my screws on the GPU heasink so its un removable

Does anyone think this will greatly affect thte functioning of this method.

LEo

If you can remove it, you must. If it broke off, then you will need to drill it out & re-thread it. Yes it will absolutely affect the functionality if you leave it as is.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 01, 2007, 09:12:00 PM

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 1 2007, 07:52 PM)

PC motherboards, usually has that 1 screw slot in the middle of the board. (full ATX), while our xbox360 board are screwed in only at the edges, right?

There is a case support that is screwed down near between the CPU/GPU and fans. This should clamp down on the board and keep it in place....see my pic below.

IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on May 01, 2007, 09:54:00 PM

QUOTE(SnufftheCrimeDog @ May 2 2007, 01:52 AM)

i took you advice and i removed the thermal paste from the Memory.
U were right, the thermal paste was Intact... there is no point of having it there.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jetlae on May 02, 2007, 12:00:00 AM

Houston, TX

Home Depot on WestPark and 610

8 m5 machine screws oval head phillips
16 Fiber washers 32" thick (Home Depot sku# 030699132485, comes 2 in a pack)
16 Flat washers 5mm (Home Depot sku# 030699363087, comes 4 in a pack)

I used 2 washers on the bottom of the mobo (fiber washer touching the mobo), and 2 on the top (again fiber washer touching the mobo),

I used qtip and alochol to clean the two processing units and heatsinks. Also used Arctic Silver 5 for reapplying.

I follow Lawdawg tut however mine wouldn't go to the two red light without the towel method.

After getting the two red light, I turn it off and let it sit for about an hour so it can cool down.

After an hour it gave me the 3 red lights, I then open everything back up and tighten the screws (really tight).

No red light, all green!! I put in the movie Hitch and finish the movie without any problems.

Lawdawg, you're a genius, thank you.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RavenHawk on May 02, 2007, 10:39:00 AM

Got a question for those that have done either of the mods - one of my launch units started with the 3RLOD. I took it apart and found that if I left the screws out of the bottom of the case it works fine. My guess is that the motherboard has distorted itself. Has anyone experienced this; and should I attempt the mod, or is there something else you would recommend first?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 02, 2007, 04:33:00 PM

QUOTE(RavenHawk @ May 2 2007, 11:39 AM)

That would indicate the X clamps were the culprit. By leaving those screws off, you've taken tension off the clamps (somewhat) where it attaches to the bottom case. They are still bowing the motherboard, as they're still connected to the heatsinks at the posts. If it is working at the moment, don't fix it! But if I were a betting man, it's a matter of time before the 3RLOD show their ugly face. At that time, decide which tutorial best suites you & perform sugery....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RiPpN-N-TrIppN on May 02, 2007, 05:22:00 PM

QUOTE(RiPpN-N-TrIppN @ May 2 2007, 01:08 AM)

well i got home and took the box apart again and this time removed the washers from the top and bottom and replaced them with only 3 on the bottom and 2 on the top turned her on and she booted
played a good 20-30min of poker b4 she frooze with the checkboard which is a good sighn of over heating
so i take it apart again and i redid the AS5 ( i didnt redo this when i first did this mod) and then put it back together and booted her up and she working
didnt really have too much time to test it tho played like 20min of poker then watched a happy feet HD-DVDrip and left the box on all night work up this mourning and its still workiing
ill give it a good run tonight and see how she goes
Rip

btw i have only done this to the GPU, CPU is still using the x brackets once im happy with the way the GPU is holding up ill then do the CPU

This post has been edited by RiPpN-N-TrIppN: May 3 2007, 12:29 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: rapstrike69 on May 02, 2007, 11:43:00 PM

Tried LawDawg's method 2 days ago. Now my 360 is running great, no freezing, no stuttering whatsoever. Thanks.

Oh and to anyone having trouble getting the system to overheat to do the solder reflow, leave the airscoop of the 360. It will definately give you the 3 lights within 5 minutes.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CocoaPistolero on May 03, 2007, 09:14:00 PM

The only hardware store close to me is Home Depot. I went there and they don't carry any metric stuff, which is appalling for a large-sized hardware store chain like Home Depot. They had the washers and a set of Torx screwdrivers, but the did not have the M5-.80x10 Machine Screws. Since I am not well versed in parts like this, does anyone know similarly-sized parts in Imperial measurements?

Also, is thermal paste a necessity? Or is it just another precaution to get things working again?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on May 03, 2007, 09:50:00 PM

QUOTE(CocoaPistolero @ May 3 2007, 08:14 PM)

Also, is thermal paste a necessity? Or is it just another precaution to get things working again?

Oh yeah, its pretty much a requirement. Without it, CPU/GPU temps would be much higher and they'd be little or no contact with the heatsink (or a poor contact nonetheless)

Im interested in his other question aswell. Does anyone know similar sized parts that will work with the X-Clamps? I havent started on the project yet due to a busy work schedule, but im finally going to Lowes tomorrow and just incase I dont find the exact parts listed here, I'd like a similar one to look for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CocoaPistolero on May 03, 2007, 10:15:00 PM

Well there's already thermal paste on there right? So why do I have to remove it and reapply more?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 03, 2007, 10:48:00 PM

QUOTE(CocoaPistolero @ May 3 2007, 11:15 PM)

Well there's already thermal paste on there right? So why do I have to remove it and reapply more?

There is paste in there, but that's why you must clean it...& I mean CLEAN! The stock thermal paste isn't worth a cr*p IMO. The thermal paste that 99% of us use is AS5 Thermal compound. It truly will make or break the mod on its' own, it's that important.

@JakeDunn
I live in the US in a major city, Lowes part #'s listed will work just fine. I've been to 3 different Lowes here, & they all had them.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: inspire on May 04, 2007, 12:19:00 AM

hello all...new here
ok my case is like this...
i try to do this method on xbox with 0102,i waited 2 min and then tightened the screws...
now i am getting only 1 red light(right low corner like hd error,but there is no hd...
what can i do with?
what is that means?that i destroyed the mobo?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on May 04, 2007, 02:24:00 AM

doesn't one light (bottom-right) mean lots of things? my bet would be something with a/v port but that's just a wild guess

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: inspire on May 04, 2007, 03:27:00 AM

i see in the error section that the problem may be crash of th fw...maybe by overheat the cpu i ruined the cpu and the fw and that casue the one red of light(bottom right)...
is it fixable???

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on May 04, 2007, 08:35:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 3 2007, 10:24 PM)

I live in the US in a major city, Lowes part #'s listed will work just fine. I've been to 3 different Lowes here, & they all had them.

Thats good to know. I live in Los Angeles, and I guess that counts as a major city?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Unbound on May 04, 2007, 10:36:00 AM

Thanks so much. This fix worked like gold. Going strong 1week now. System seems a little quicker. Maybe my imagination.
One thing I would like to add. "Flux-off" instead of alcohol to remove the original heat sink paste. It works 10x better. Just don't bathe the chips in it and you'll be OK.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FrostyTheSnowman on May 04, 2007, 10:21:00 AM

Paint thinner works really well too, and it evaporates rather quickly too, so there is very little mess to clean up afterwards.

I always use paint thinner to clean my heatsinks and processors, and it has always worked really well for me.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: defx6669 on May 04, 2007, 11:04:00 AM

I have a recently bought 360 that so far hasnt given me any problems. Do you think its a good idea to try this mod? I assume it would be a great idea as it will help keep it from becoming a bricked xbox 360 in the future. On a side note are 3.5 G of Arctic Silver 5 enough for the mod?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on May 04, 2007, 10:53:00 AM

QUOTE(defx6669 @ May 4 2007, 07:04 PM)

I have a recently bought 360 that so far hasnt given me any problems. Do you think its a good idea to try this mod?

don't fix it if it's not broken - simple as that

QUOTE(defx6669 @ May 4 2007, 07:04 PM)

On a side note are 3.5 G of Arctic Silver 5 enough for the mod?

sure it is, you'll only need like just a little bit of it (rice grain size per chip)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SlickWilly440 on May 04, 2007, 12:57:00 PM

So what is the price range for all the screws and washers needed for this mod?

Thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 04, 2007, 01:04:00 PM

QUOTE(SlickWilly440 @ May 4 2007, 11:57 AM)

So what is the price range for all the screws and washers needed for this mod?

Thanks!

My local hardware store was $0.19 for the screws, and $0.09 for the washers (both nylon and metal) so it was ~$4.50 total.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on May 04, 2007, 08:27:00 PM

Fixed the problem. Took about 3-4hrs because of various reasons, but so far so good. I'll update on the status in a couple of hours (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

thanks lawdawg (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Btw, another thing I noticed. The mobo doesnt seem to fit right after the bolts(from the clamp replacements) are in. Theres some sort of gap between the mobo and the bottom metal casing, which is quite concerning me because I have to use alot of force to push the mobo down to get the rf connector plugged. I've tried various methods to put it back and wiggle the mobo a bit, but still, the gap is there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . Any suggestions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This post has been edited by JakeDunn: May 5 2007, 03:39 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 04, 2007, 11:09:00 PM

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ May 4 2007, 09:27 PM)

Btw, another thing I noticed. The mobo doesnt seem to fit right after the bolts(from the clamp replacements) are in. Theres some sort of gap between the mobo and the bottom metal casing, which is quite concerning me because I have to use alot of force to push the mobo down to get the rf connector plugged. I've tried various methods to put it back and wiggle the mobo a bit, but still, the gap is there

. Any suggestions?

Did you use the bolts listed? If not, it sounds like the bolt heads might be bigger than they should be. If that's the case, it will push up on the motherboard. Then when you tighten down on the connectors, ie...video, power, wired controllers - it's flexing the board. The clearances need to be exact! Double check measurements.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SlickWilly440 on May 04, 2007, 11:51:00 PM

QUOTE(defx6669 @ May 4 2007, 06:04 PM)

On a side note are 3.5 G of Arctic Silver 5 enough for the mod?

LOL...I asked this same question today in a different thread. The guy replied and told me that 3.5 grams is enough for 50 applications because all you need is a size of "uncooked grain of rice". Then use your finger wrapped in some plastic wrap to spread it. Then use something hard and flat like a credit card to even out the paste.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on May 04, 2007, 11:28:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 4 2007, 10:45 PM)

Yeah, got the exact ones listed in your guide

. Doh! flexing

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 04, 2007, 11:58:00 PM

QUOTE(JakeDunn @ May 5 2007, 01:04 AM)

Yeah, got the exact ones listed in your guide

. Doh! flexing

Well, shouldn't be that then... The only other thing I can think of would be to measure the height of the bolt head, and make sure that it is = or less than the bottom case stand-offs that the mobo sits on. Somehow your board is sitting up higher than before, if you're having trouble plugging in the video connection (& you had no trouble before). Also double check that its sitting in the bottom case correctly, not binding on something.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JakeDunn on May 05, 2007, 12:50:00 AM

It fits ok now. I dont know what I did, but, it just does

The system is doing great, but now, my major obstacle is the DVD drive. It doesnt read any disc media whatsoever, and I've tried the rubberband trick to no avail. Any tips for this?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darthmaul on May 06, 2007, 08:59:00 AM

Whew!! Add another success story to this thread!! I used Lawdawgs technique last night and no more RLOD!! Thanks to Lawdawg and RBL!! You guys certainly have help alot of people....and we all appreciate it!! I was getting error #0102 and followed the guide to a "T" It took my 360 about 5 minutes to overheat (not like 2 minutes mentioned in the guide) so I was getting nervous, but it all worked out!!! So if any of you guys are scared or skeptical to do this let me tell you; If I can do it, anyone can!! Takes a little patience, but the instructions are all right there!! I got my parts at Lowes with the part numbers provided. The screws that I got had a different item number than in the guide, but the dimensions of "M5-.80 X 10" matched exactly. So if you cant find the screws with the item number mentioned in the guide (like me) try Lowes item number 138560.....Good luck to anyone else using these methods

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ambiades on May 06, 2007, 02:00:00 PM

Alright guys, apparently my 360 heatsink must be a little weird. I purchased some M5-.80 x 10 screws (these), and my heatsink has these strange little pegs (picture here). The holes in the pegs are way too small for the M5-.80 x 10 bolts to fit in (as seen here), so I'm trying to figure out if I just bought the wrong screws, or my heatsink is different because my xbox is a launch 360 and they've changed the heatsink design since then.

I'm entirely confused and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on May 06, 2007, 02:02:00 PM

QUOTE(ambiades @ May 6 2007, 09:00 PM)

U have to remove the screws from the HS...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darthmaul on May 06, 2007, 02:10:00 PM

Yeah, those little pegs just unscrew...I had to use a pair of plyers, but just unscrew them and those screws you bought should fit in the hole that the pegs were in....good luck

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ambiades on May 06, 2007, 02:22:00 PM

QUOTE(darthmaul @ May 6 2007, 09:10 PM)

Yeah, those little pegs just unscrew...I had to use a pair of plyers, but just unscrew them and those screws you bought should fit in the hole that the pegs were in....good luck

I see, said the blind man.

Haha, yeah I had a sneaking suspiscion it was me being stupid rather than me having a strange heatsink...oh well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bazooka on May 06, 2007, 09:29:00 PM

QUOTE(ambiades @ May 6 2007, 09:22 PM)

I see, said the blind man.
Haha, yeah I had a sneaking suspiscion it was me being stupid rather than me having a strange heatsink...oh well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Thanks!

Hi,
I live in Pakistan and thus havin loads of difficulty finding the parts mentioned in this method,Since lowes stores are obviously not located here....

Anyway,can anybody plz do me a favour and take a clear picture of all 3 parts i.e. nuts and nylon and metal washers and put them here.....

I am having a seriously difficult time understanding the measurements etc.....I am confused as to what to ask the hardware guy in my area,like i am sure he might have some washers,but dont know if they have the right ones needed for the job....i.e measurements-wise....

What does .80 x 10 mean? i know the 10 is for 10mm length but .80 for dia?
Also 5mm flat washers? 5mm in width? so whatz the 0.71 reading for? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

This post has been edited by bazooka: May 7 2007, 04:30 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 07, 2007, 01:24:00 AM

I only have an Ace Hardware store close to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Does anyone know the part #s I need to purchase?

This post has been edited by SonicPower: May 7 2007, 08:25 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Mysta on May 07, 2007, 09:42:00 AM

K, i did this a couple of weeks ago, just now had time to hop on. the red lights don't come on really, but about 10 minutes into turning on the xbox(maybe less) it goes black/greenish screen. wait a minute or so and i can turn it back on, it really seems like overheating. Could this be bad removal of old paste, bad application of new paste? would water cooling help? lol.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 07, 2007, 10:11:00 AM

QUOTE(bazooka @ May 6 2007, 08:29 PM)

.80 is the pitch of the threads....as in 1 thread every 0.8mm. 10mm is the length, but be careful....some screws are measured from the top of the head, and some from the top of the threads. The ones I got were only about 8mm long from the threads, and that was just right. You need washers that will fit around the 5mm screws, so the inside diameter needs to be at least 5mm, and the outside can't be much bigger than about 9mm. 0.71 is probably the thickness of the washer.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cha0s s0ldier on May 07, 2007, 02:05:00 PM

The lowes around here didn't have the parts. Does anybody know the part numbers at Home Depot? Or where I can order the parts online.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 07, 2007, 02:11:00 PM

QUOTE(cha0s s0ldier @ May 7 2007, 01:05 PM)

The lowes around here didn't have the parts. Does anybody know the part numbers at Home Depot? Or where I can order the parts online.

I think someone listed them earlier in this thread...but my local HD didn't have the parts. I did visit my buddies little hardware store, and they have a much better selection of parts....and about 5 different types of M5x.80x10 screws. I stuck with the machine screw type...at it worked great.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: luminous on May 07, 2007, 04:23:00 PM

Cheers Lawdawg just done it and it works!(the towel trick lasted for all of a couple of days).
Just seems so much better fit and more secure than those bloomin x clamps.I was pretty miffed initially as this 360 is only 6 months old (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) .
I followed a previous thread in here for uk and managed to get these from b&q:
5mm Flat washers code avf-064968(they don`t stock nylon washers)
5mm x0.8x10 machine screws avf-069918 (8 in pack)
One washer underneath board/2 above.
After hearing it was real fiddly putting em on i had a go.It wasn`t bad at all just pushed the screws right in while bringing hs close and just hand tightened one until it just got on the thread then moved onto next one.
I was a little concerned the 2 washers above made it too high but once heated up and screwed down lightly they`re real snug.
Hopefully this do a while thanks again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Oh while i`m here,i noticed those rubber type things on the ram sinks from ms,should i leave them on? or might this be causing the trouble in itself? cheers

This post has been edited by luminous: May 7 2007, 11:28 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: phiquach on May 07, 2007, 04:12:00 PM

. this didnt work at all on my xbox 360. i am so sad. i just bought guitar hero and turned on my xbox and it is dead. 3ROL has owned me. hey, do you guys know if microsoft will still repair it even though i have opened it? i mean, my xbox was purchases in dec 05, manu 11/05. i'm guessing they will probably charge me though

. i am so saddddddddddd, i want to play my 360!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 07, 2007, 04:58:00 PM

QUOTE(luminous @ May 7 2007, 03:23 PM)

Oh while i`m here,i noticed those rubber type things on the ram sinks from ms,should i leave them on? or might this be causing the trouble in itself? cheers

Those are good, leave them on. They help to transfer heat from the RAM chips to the chassis, which is good. Too bad they didn't add these for the 2 chips under the GPU heatsink. I did.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 07, 2007, 06:50:00 PM

QUOTE(phiquach @ May 7 2007, 05:48 PM)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . this didnt work at all on my xbox 360. i am so sad. i just bought guitar hero and turned on my xbox and it is dead. 3ROL has owned me. hey, do you guys know if microsoft will still repair it even though i have opened it? i mean, my xbox was purchases in dec 05, manu 11/05. i'm guessing they will probably charge me though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . i am so saddddddddddd, i want to play my 360!

Yup, M$ will still fix it....for $140 + shippping. They'll even send you one back that's not yours. Then if your lucky, that one will last a couple of months before it gives the 3RLOD! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) OK, I'm ranting...just re-do the X clamp tutorial (adjusting the # of washers possibly), making sure you get a good fit on the CPU/GPU - and fix it yourself! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: May 8 2007, 01:53 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: the_massakre on May 07, 2007, 08:51:00 PM

i did it and it worked for me,woot!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RiPpN-N-TrIppN on May 07, 2007, 09:25:00 PM

QUOTE(RiPpN-N-TrIppN @ May 3 2007, 12:22 AM)

well its been a few days since ive even looked at my box but atm it isnt working
i removed the HS again and redid the AS5 then put it all back together and now its not booting at all
since i have changed my ROL i cant see what error msgs im getting so its a little harder for me to trouble shoot
im sure it has something to do with the spacing of the HS and the gpu
im planing on giving it a few hrs of my time after work today to hopefully get her back up and running
if i cant get it working ill try going back to the x clamps and see if i can get her booting again
ill keep u posted
Rip

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bazooka on May 08, 2007, 01:09:00 PM

Hi,
Ok i managed to get the 10mm bolts which fit in nicely into the heatsinks....i also got hold of metal washers to go along with the bolts...now the problem is that i am unable to locate any nylon/plastic or spring washers of any sort.....so i was thinking,would it be ok if i use 2 metal springs together instead of 1 nylon and 1 metal??Would that make any difference?

Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cha0s s0ldier on May 08, 2007, 02:45:00 PM

QUOTE(bazooka @ May 8 2007, 08:09 PM)

I'm pretty sure that's a bad idea, you don't want metal touching the mobo.

Ok, I went to ace hardware and gave them a list of what I needed, i'll post a pic just to make sure what i got is correct.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a306/Cha...dier/screws.jpg

Sorry, it's kind of blurry.

This post has been edited by cha0s s0ldier: May 8 2007, 09:48 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 08, 2007, 03:04:00 PM

QUOTE(bazooka @ May 8 2007, 02:09 PM)

Actually the metal vs. nylon washer wasn't so you wouldn't short out anything, I just didn't want to possibly scratch the motherboard. If you need to use metal washers, that will probably be fine - as long as they are not wider than the motherboard holes they sit on (that make sense?).

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: May 8 2007, 10:05 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 08, 2007, 03:27:00 PM

lawdawg0931, how long is ur 360 running okay without reheat or anything else after the x-clamp replacement?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 08, 2007, 05:23:00 PM

What type of screw driver I need to unscrew the x-clamp that hold heatsink?

My screw drivers tools don't have it @_@ Not sure why, my tools can open the 360 but not the x-clamp, the one on x-clamp the tip is really small.
Can someone show me the screw driver for it online? Lowes/home depot will be good.

This post has been edited by ahtze: May 9 2007, 12:28 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: grim_d on May 08, 2007, 05:26:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 8 2007, 10:04 PM)

metal washers are fine, there aint any traces that near to the holes (that i noticed) so even if it scratched it a little bit it would be ok.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 08, 2007, 05:27:00 PM

Grim_d, I wonder how long have ur 360 last? Are u using lawdawg's method?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 08, 2007, 08:43:00 PM

QUOTE(ahtze @ May 8 2007, 04:27 PM)

lawdawg0931, how long is ur 360 running okay without reheat or anything else after the x-clamp replacement?

The 1st one I fixed began freezing up, so I did several of RBJTech's cooling mods....still working (2 months now). I sent two mobo's off for BGA reflow service with bojngles, wanna see if the service plus the X clamp removal makes a huge difference. Should be better than new!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 08, 2007, 10:35:00 PM

BGA reflow services ? What's that. What method does he use? Any guarantee and how much

I am still trying on a method. I guess its just temporary fix but who knows. Some tweak might change everything to good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This post has been edited by ahtze: May 9 2007, 05:38 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 09, 2007, 12:10:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 8 2007, 09:43 PM)

Do you have a link for RBJTech's cooling mods?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on May 09, 2007, 12:33:00 AM

RBJTech – Xbox 360 Modding Homepage

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: smack_blitz on May 09, 2007, 12:49:00 AM

hi all

i tried to do lawdawg's method today and hit a snag in the process..

im in the part where you need to wait til the 3 lights change to 2 lights only. after the 2 lights showed up, i waited 2-3 minutes.. then turned the box off to let it cool. I left the house for 1 hour, came back, but now the xbox wont turn on at all... i have checked the mobo if any part was disturbed, and as far as i can tell, the mobo is alright because i was careful with everything. I'm rili stumped...

any ideas will be very appreciated

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jameswalter on May 09, 2007, 01:34:00 AM

QUOTE(ahtze @ May 8 2007, 04:23 PM)

T8. I was actually able to get my T10 to fit by pushing pretty hard when turning.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 09, 2007, 02:01:00 AM

QUOTE(SonicPower @ May 9 2007, 01:10 AM)

Do you have a link for RBJTech's cooling mods?

here

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=599217

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 09, 2007, 11:38:00 AM

QUOTE(ahtze @ May 9 2007, 03:01 AM)

here

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=599217

I asked for cooling mods, not another X-Clamp Replacement.

Thanks who provided the correct link to RPJTech's homepage.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jdsony on May 09, 2007, 02:43:00 PM

I bought some parts just now at Home Depot. Looks like I got the wrong screws 16mm not 10mm (they didn't have 10mm anyway). The parts I found were in a special "metric" section. There were no fiber washers so I got rubber ones. I'll probably try somewhere else for the screws later this afternoon.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 09, 2007, 04:20:00 PM

My second Xbox 360 arrived today (bought it from Ebay). The listing claimed it was broken, but when I turned it on, it was all right. Booted to Dashboard and updated it from the update on Gears (haven't tried connecting it to the internet). Played Gears campaign for about 15 minutes. Turned it off. Turned it on. Seemed ok.

I noticed that the Xbox 360 had be opened, so I decided to see for myself. Looks like no work was done on it. The X-Clamps were still there, and there were no rubber eraser mods on the memory chips.

I was wondering if it was ok to go ahead and replace the X-Clamps. It would be probably a good idea since people here claim those are the culprit for the three red lights (along with the overheating memory chips). Maybe, I'll do the rubber mod, too.

Also I noticed that the drive (Toshiba M25) was having some trouble opening at first, but it seemed fine afterwards. However, I am a little worried since I have heard stories about drive bands breaking down. Where do I find parts for those?

Any suggestions?

This post has been edited by SonicPower: May 9 2007, 11:26 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on May 09, 2007, 04:49:00 PM

you basicly need to replace the motor belt with a rubberband. textbook made a video tutorial, but his account has been banned from youtube and now i can't find it, sry

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 09, 2007, 05:52:00 PM

QUOTE(kidman64 @ May 9 2007, 05:49 PM)

you basicly need to replace the motor belt with a rubberband. textbook made a video tutorial, but his account has been banned from youtube and now i can't find it, sry

Thank you for your response. If someone could tell me a little bit more about replacing drive bands, I would appreciate it.

Now, for the 3ROL issue, I haven't encountered them, though I feel like I should do the clamp mod and the rubber mod as preventive measures since the owner on Ebay said that he has experienced them.

Is this recommended? We know that the X-Clamp mods are part of the reason why people eventually experience 3ROL, right?

This post has been edited by SonicPower: May 10 2007, 12:54 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 09, 2007, 07:31:00 PM

QUOTE(SonicPower @ May 9 2007, 06:52 PM)

If someone could tell me a little bit more about replacing drive bands, I would appreciate it.

Here is Textbooks video I beleive:
http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=71.html (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 09, 2007, 09:00:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 9 2007, 08:31 PM)

Here is Textbooks video I beleive:
http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=71.html (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Thanks for your help though that looks like it is for drives that have problems reading backups. My drive belt seems like it is dying. Any fix for that?

Again, would replacing my X-Clamps be a good idea?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FrostyTheSnowman on May 09, 2007, 11:07:00 PM

I recommend that you do the X-clamp replacement just as preventive maintenance anyway, even with a brand-new 360. Microsoft clearly had their head in their ass when they designed the cooling system in the XBOX 360...

After doing the X-clamp replacement (I did it simply for preventive maintenance, i've never even had the 3RLOD before), I can literally feel the difference in temperature. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)

This post has been edited by FrostyTheSnowman: May 10 2007, 06:09 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on May 10, 2007, 01:56:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 10 2007, 03:31 AM)

Here is Textbooks video I beleive:
http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=71.html (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

that's something different. fix you're talking about is to prevent "open tray" error. what i was talking about was a fix to tray not opening (jamming). I'll try to take photos of my drive since it'll be easier then writing:)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: urbanglowcam on May 10, 2007, 02:32:00 AM

Hey guys, I used lawdawg0931's method to fix my 360 and ended up with a 0003 code. I've looked it up and seen that it is a gpu/cpu problem. I'm not very tech savy and was very cautious to try this method. I was just trying to save money since Microsoft was only willing to fix the console for $140 dollars. Anyway, the confusion began when I started cleaning the chips with the q-tip and some rubbing alcohol. I'm afraid I may have used too much to get the gunk off the actual chip as well as on the heatsink. I then filled both chips with some thermal compound from radio shack. I'm wondering if I may have used too much. I also used all the required screws/washers including the nylon washers to secure the heatsink.

While taking the x-clamps off, I may have scratched some circuitry. I didn't scratch anything majorly and don't notice any visible damage anywhere. What could be the problem?

I plugged the dvd, power light, and fan in. When I press the power button, the fan turns on for a second and turns off. There are also 3RLOD immediately. Just seems like nothing is happening. I really hope that there is a way I can fix this since I don't really have the money to shell out for another unit.

This post has been edited by urbanglowcam: May 10 2007, 09:33 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: andreq on May 10, 2007, 10:16:00 AM

hi,

just got a 3RLOD of ebay last night and tryed the Xclamp removal...

the system was never open and I didn't know how to check for the error code...so I have no clue what it was

I used 1 rubber washer on the bottom and 1 rubber + 1 metal on the top...

It seam to have removed the 3RLOD but now i get 2 light ( 1 and 3) flashing and the fan stop after 10 sec...

I (now) know the error code : 0011 - Over heat ... check the black screws holding the heatsink..

As I removed the Xclamp... what should I look for now ?

Should I thighten the screw a bit more ?
Should I have a metal washer on the bottom ? (my rubber washer are about 2 time the height of my the metal washer).

thanks

fyi, I'll get my power + AV cable in a week or so... I can't really test anything soon. The yesterday test was done with a co-worker who own a working 360.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 10, 2007, 02:43:00 PM

@urbanglowcam
Hopefully the thermal compound from Radio Shack is AS5 thermal compound. Also you need to really check the board where you scratched it getting the X clamps off. If you scratched through a trace, you will have to fix that...not impossible, but difficult. If you have a multimeter, check continuity of each trace from both sides of the scratch. Only use thermal compound sparingly (the size of a grain of rice) & let the heatsink spread it as it makes contact. If you're getting the lights immediately, you have problems with CPU/GPU contact with heatsinks (most likely). Recheck everything

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: The Argus on May 10, 2007, 04:28:00 PM

Hey all. My console was a refurb that I recieved back from Microsoft 5 months ago. Over the last two weeks it had been acting up (freezing during games, disc read errors). Then when playing a game it froze, I turned the console off and back on....the 3ROD. I called MS and they told me it would be $140 for repair. I was outraged that I would be charged for something they just repaired that is known to have defective issues. I started researching online and came across lots of info on the very subject I was experiencing. From everything I read I determined I had error code 0102. From this error I came across 3 methods of fixing the problem: RBJTech, Lawdawg and the "towel trick." I have never opened a computer or done any kind of electrical work, so I didn't want to try the two intelligent fixes. So I tried the towel trick; I wrapped the xbox in a blanket and a winter coat. I covered every possible part of the console except the ROL. I plugged the console in and left in on for about 25 minutes. I kept very careful watch of it the entire time it was plugged in. As soon as the 3 lights changed to 2 indicating overheating I pulled the power plug. I let the system cool for 30 minutes. I hook everything back up to the TV and turn it on to find that the console is working. I attempt to play a game and it plays for a good 15 minutes until it loads a cutscene and then freezes partway through the scene. The console continues functioning like this for 2 days, then the 3ROD reappear. I had done enough reading by this
time to expect it. I had also done enough reading that I worked up the courage to crack this baby open and attempt Lawdawgs method. I got all of the parts listed in the guide from Lowes. I also picked up the AS5 at Radioshack. I spent 3 hours opening the case, cleaning the old thermal compound, installing the parts, and applying the AS5. I was extremely careful not to touch anything except what needed to be touched. Now here is the thing that has me a little confused: When I plugged in the console before the fans were hooked up again so that it could "cook" I did NOT receive the 3ROD, it just glowed green like it does when it works. I was not prepared for this because I had not seen anything written on the matter before. I went ahead and let it sit for 1 min with the light glowing green and the fans unattached. I unplugged it and put it back together. I hooked it up to the telvision and crossed my fingers. Everything turned on! There was picture, there was sound, but most importantly there was NO 3ROD! The console has been running smooth for 2 days now. It plays games perfect and DVDs too, it even seems to perform slightly faster. If anyone is still reading after all of that I would just like to say THANK YOU!! to everyone here. This is a tremendous site you have here. I have become very interested in how all of this computer stuff works over the last week and would like to learn more. This is my first post but I plan on sticking around here and helping out anyone that I can just as everyone else does. Thanks again.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mzone on May 10, 2007, 04:29:00 PM

so do u just need these items from b and Q

Flat washer 5mm (Code AVF-064968)
Machine screws 5mm 0.8mm x 30mm (Code AVF-069871)

do the machine screws just screw into the excisting heatsinks ok, without the need to cut them or mod them in any way.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: smack_blitz on May 10, 2007, 04:10:00 PM

QUOTE

hey i found that power-cycling the power brick fixed this problem...

but i got everything working now.. 2 days and running

i found that supporting the area under the motherdboard where the heatsink has really helped

i did so by screwing the bolt all the way up the thread.. up to the nut head.. then inserted it through the motheboard.. so the nut head is acting like legs for the heatsink

i think its a variation of lawdawg's method to rbjtech's..

anyone in canada having trouble getting the screws.. just go to brafasco (home depot owned) and ask for 5 mm round head screws.. then ask for the washers and lock washers that goes with the screw.. also the nuts

ALSO

the two holes that are close together (2 from gpu heatsink, 2 from cpu heatsink) was a pain

i used 1 lock washer(under) and 1 metal washer(top), and it was enough height for the cpu heatsinks... but if i tried to put the same washer combo in the gpu side, the washer laid on top of the cpu washer (made it crooked).. SO i used 2 LOCK washers in the other side so they wont have contact with each other.. and worked wonders (booted right away)

thanks for all the hard work (rbjtech and lawdawg0931)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: The Argus on May 10, 2007, 04:14:00 PM

@mzone

The machine screws do screw directly into the heatsink. You have the wrong machine screws though I think.

You said you had: .8 x 30

I'm pretty positive you need: .8 x 10

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: urbanglowcam on May 10, 2007, 05:36:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 10 2007, 01:43 PM)

It's actually not AS5. It is "Ceramique by Arctic Silver High-Density Thermal Compound" that I used. I don't know if that should be used or not. At first I globbed it all over the chips and then placed the heatsinks on. Then I removed the board again, and whiped the chips and the outside of the chips with rubbing alcohol until they looked like a mirror. I then reapplied the same compound again but this time with only a glob the size of a grain of rice. What could be causing the contact with the heatsinks? Should I tighten them more? I reeeally hope I didn't permanently waste my 360.

As far as the scratching through a trace (sorry I'm going to sound stupid, I'm not that familiar with circuitry), should I be looking at the lines on the board to see if there is a break in any? I don't seem to see any scratch near where the x-clips were removed.

If there is no contact with the heatsinks, does the 360 not start at all? Before I opened up the 360, the 360 would still start....wait....and then get the 3 red lights. Now it does it instantly. When plugging in the fan, it starts for about 2 seconds and shuts off. Pleeeease help me out Lawdawg. The tutorial is wonderful but I am just fairly new with this.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on May 10, 2007, 05:43:00 PM

if you get 3 lod right after you turn your 360 on it's probably 0020, when light go red it's most likely 0102 error. in case of 0020 try making gpu screw "less tight" (sorry, my english dictionary is limited), especially the 2 on the left side of gpu heatsink (cpu is on the right side, just bo be clear) - it worked for me:) when fans turn off it usually means that the console just overheated (there should be 2 lights flashing, instead of 3 too), in which has you need to tighten the screws a little bit

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: urbanglowcam on May 10, 2007, 05:59:00 PM

Thanks kidman, but when I looked for the code it said 0003. Also, it gives three red lights and not two. Maybe it's because I used Arctic Silver Ceramique instead of AS5 and it doesn't allow a connection?

Here's an image I took of it if it helps.

IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: luminous on May 10, 2007, 08:11:00 PM

QUOTE(mzone @ May 11 2007, 12:29 AM)

so do u just need these items from b and Q

Flat washer 5mm (Code AVF-064968)
Machine screws 5mm 0.8mm x 30mm (Code AVF-069871)

Yep,all you need.Try and get a good quality t8 & t10 screwdriver (i got the precision set for a tenner at maplins as the cheaper ones i got just threaded).A socket set(easier) or pliers if you have them will take off the 4 x clamp type screws on the gpu heatsink (shown on left of urbanglows pic) and the screws fit real snug.
Follow the useful guide here for opening the 360
http://www.samspublishing.com/articles/article.asp?p=430626&seqNum=2&rl=1

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 10, 2007, 09:02:00 PM

QUOTE(urbanglowcam @ May 10 2007, 07:12 PM)

It's actually not AS5. It is "Ceramique by Arctic Silver High-Density Thermal Compound" that I used.
As far as the scratching through a trace (sorry I'm going to sound stupid, I'm not that familiar with circuitry), should I be looking at the lines on the board to see if there is a break in any? I don't seem to see any scratch near where the x-clips were removed.

AS5 should definitely be used, not ceramique. Huge difference IMO. Also, I found a decent trace repair link. It's basic - but you get the point.
http://machrone.home.comcast.net/bjr/mistakes.htm

And yes, if the heatsinks are not making a good (flat) connection on the CPU/GPU it will immediately show an overheat. Keep checking the height with your washers

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: urbanglowcam on May 10, 2007, 10:52:00 PM

@lawdawg

I'm about to clean off the ceramique and swap it with ac5 that i just bought. Hopefully that will fix the connection between the heatsinks.

So you're saying that 0003 should just be from a lack of connection between the heatsinks and cpu/gpu or could it also be from scraping the motherboard? I'm hoping it's not the latter because I don't think I'll be able to fix that.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: vineswingman on May 10, 2007, 11:39:00 PM

My xbox 360 would not display anything on the screen, it would just boot to the three red lights.

I preformed the fix exactly as described, except while the heatsinks were off, I lapped them as well. System seems to be working 100%! I've had it on for 3-4+ hours the last two nights, and no hiccups.

THANK YOU LAWDAWG!! :-)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bazooka on May 11, 2007, 12:33:00 AM

Hi,I am still stuck with the parts thingy as they are difficult to find in my part of the country...

The 10mm screw,can anyone tell me is it supposed to be 10mm from the top to the bottom thread of the screw or does 10mm include the screw 'head' as well in this dimension? why not use a 15mm one as its the only one i am able to get my hands on right now....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 11, 2007, 03:04:00 PM

Argh. I need help!

So, I'm stuck at the part where I need to overheat the Xbox 360. However, when I turn it on, it's 2 red lights (0011). When I tighten the bolts down, I get the 3 red lights (0102).

However, to my understanding of the tutorial, I thought the X360 needs to have 3 red lights at start then 2.

Can someone help me please? What am I doing wrong?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ChewyChewbacca on May 11, 2007, 06:25:00 PM

Hi guys,
quick question before I delve into this and buy the parts and such.

Does this fix 0020 error? It's the three red lights and I fixed it using the towel trick before so this should fix it also right?
Just trying to confirm this because I see alot of posts for 0102 and wondering if it will work for 0020 also.

Also, if I'm not mistaken, ALL the parts I will need is:
Torx T8 and T10 Screwdriver and the parts listed in the tutorial right?

Thanks alot.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cha0s s0ldier on May 11, 2007, 07:35:00 PM

Well, I tried it and it seems to work so far. I had to use only 1 nylon washer on each side instead of 1 nylon and 1 metal because the mobo wouldnt fit back in the case and the heatsinks werent getting any contact with the chips.

Everything seems to work so far except for the fact that my tilt sensor is stuck and the xbox is a lot louder then it was before.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cha0s s0ldier on May 11, 2007, 08:39:00 PM

Just an update to my last post.

For some reason the fans are always spinning at the highest speed, even when the system is just idle on the dashboard. It's very loud.

Should I be worried?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 11, 2007, 08:41:00 PM

You really only need to do the overheat if the 3 red lights aren't cleared up after the mod. It sounds like both of the above posts are having problems;
@chewychewbacca
This should fix your problem much better than the towel trick - which is a harsh way of overheating (reflowing). Now you are taking care of the flexing that continued after the towel trick.

@SonicPower
It sounds like your problem is going to be in how well the heatsinks are seated. You might need to experiment with the number of washers just above the mobo. Check the impression your heatsink is making by looking at how well the AS5 was distributed (unless you spread it manually).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: luminous on May 11, 2007, 10:09:00 PM

Lawdawg i thought my 360 sounded a bit loud since birth so i took it to mates who has one and compared noise and his is much quieter.We both have delta fans/hitachi drives.
I just did the x clamp replacement and it worked thanks,just 360 fans seem to be coming on full pelt from the go.
Do you think its just the fans or is the 360 overheating a bit and the fans are compensating?.
I really wish ms would give us temp monitoring from the dashboard.
Cheers

Ps for Mzone sorry i thought you`d quoted my post didn`t look but you`d quoted smittys you need
5mm Flat washers code avf-064968(they don`t stock nylon washers)
5mm x0.8x10 machine screws avf-069918 (8 in pack) (not the 0.8x30)

This post has been edited by luminous: May 12 2007, 05:20 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cha0s s0ldier on May 11, 2007, 11:49:00 PM

I've got the same problem as the above poster, fans are running full speed from the start.

It hasn't caused any problems though, 2+ hours of gears ad not 1 freeze.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cha0s s0ldier on May 12, 2007, 05:15:00 AM

I fixed my problem. I seem to have put the CPU heatsink back on sideways...DOH. That must have been causing some extra heat.

I put it back on the proper way and the fans stay very quiet now.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 12, 2007, 11:07:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 11 2007, 10:17 PM)

Well, after 2 hours of experimenting screws, in the end, I ended up putting one nylon washer on the bottom, and the two washers on top. I thingly manually applied the AS5 to the gpu and cpu components, so that wasn't the problem.

Then, I did my own method of overheating. Screwed it in somewhat tight since loosening them just gave me 2 red lights (0011). Waited for about five minutes, no overheating, but the heatsinks were really hot. Turned it off and unscrewed the heatsinks. After the heatsinks were cooled, I tightened them. Green lights!

I noticed the previous owner used the rubber eraser mod to temporary fix his Xbox 360. I removed them, and the X360 still works fine.

Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)

Now, I'm wondering if I should perform this modification on my twice repaired X360. The warranty has already expired for it, but theoretically, it was extended to an year since I had it repaired recently (paid $30).

This post has been edited by SonicPower: May 12 2007, 06:09 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: luminous on May 12, 2007, 11:29:00 AM

Well just as an update it red lighted again,this time no fans no nothing.I experimented with screws/washers but no joy.The mobo certainly looks flexed where the x clamps were.I take it this is borked now,i can`t even do the towel/heat up.
Suggestions? (apart from bin)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: urbanglowcam on May 12, 2007, 12:18:00 PM

luminous I'm pretty sure I'm where you are. I just get immediate 3 red lights when hitting the power button and nothing turns on. Fan turns on for 2 seconds and turns off.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TheIrishLad on May 12, 2007, 02:11:00 PM

Working great for me. I highly recommend lapping the heatsinks before you put them back on. NEVER rush lapping the heatsinks or you could end up with them worse then you started.

And never over-tighten one screw first, screw/tighten them in a star pattern, going diagonally then left then diagonal again.

Don't use too much AS5 on the CPU/GPU/GPU Cache! Spread a very thin layer on, and smooth with a straight razor or something similar starting in one corner and spreading over.

Fairly easy tutorial, if the tutorial doesn't explain something, do something novel and use your brain or common sense! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This post has been edited by TheIrishLad: May 12 2007, 09:11 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on May 12, 2007, 02:50:00 PM

QUOTE(luminous @ May 12 2007, 01:05 PM)

This was after one day?

What is the error code? 0102? Open the box again, and try removing the heatsinks for overheating.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: luminous on May 12, 2007, 03:39:00 PM

QUOTE(SonicPower @ May 12 2007, 10:50 PM)

This was after one day?

What is the error code? 0102? Open the box again, and try removing the heatsinks for overheating.

The original error i had last week was 0102 unknown
Now today seems i`ve been upgraded to 0002 Network Interface problem?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SEMINOLE on May 12, 2007, 04:03:00 PM

Just wanted to post up that I have been somewhat succesfull with this mod/fix. My Xbox is in for repair under warranty, but my friends is out and he decided to see if I could get it working (he has another that does work). I have since been able to get the console to boot and at first was only running a few minutes then freezing with 3RL's following. I adjusted some with number of washers and tightness of screws and now I am able to play for about 10-15 minutes then it will freeze. NOW, once I turn the power off and back on...NO RED lights, it will boot up and run again for another 10-15 minutes. Any help? Thanks for the tutorial lawdawg, it seems like it may be a very nice, cheap and somewhat easy fix!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 13, 2007, 09:31:00 AM

QUOTE(SEMINOLE @ May 12 2007, 05:03 PM)

Now I am able to play for about 10-15 minutes then it will freeze.

This sounds like a problem with the GPU side still getting too hot. Take the top & bottom cases off, lay the DVD off to the left (still plugged in) to expose the GPU. Find a small fan or similar to blow directly on to the GPU, and try to recreate the freezing. If that takes care of it, then you will need to find a way to cool the GPU better. RBJTech's cooling mods are pretty much necessary for this...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SEMINOLE on May 13, 2007, 05:40:00 PM

Sorry, I forgot to update. After the freezing I decided to try to tighten the screws a little more, as I left them somewhat loose (not snug) I snugged them up and I am seeing much better results. Yes, I get and occasional freeze, but I played close to 45 min of guitar hero and a full game of baseball with no freeze. Today my some played some guitar hero too. When I got home from work, I turned it on and played maybe 3 min of Forza Demo and it froze. So heat maybe, but it wasn't on long and I got a freeze. SO who knows, this is a friends box that was given to me to test on and I will see if I can get him to spring for some fans or something to help the cooling.

Either way, its pretty much working (as compared to 3 red lights immediately and just bricked) and it was a somewhat painless fix to get there. Thanks again and I will keep u posted!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Mediaicon on May 14, 2007, 04:09:00 AM

QUOTE(SEMINOLE @ May 12 2007, 05:03 PM)

J adjusted some with number of washers and tightness of screws and now I am able to play for about 10-15 minutes then it will freeze. NOW, once I turn the power off and back on...NO RED lights, it will boot up and run again for another 10-15 minutes. Any help? Thanks for the tutorial lawdawg, it seems like it may be a very nice, cheap and somewhat easy fix!

Not sure how much this will help, but I will relate this to you in hopes that it may help you or someone. I did my mod about 3 weeks ago. It worked fine for a while. I began experiencing problems like you described, where it would eventually freeze up and die. Then when I tried to reboot it, 3 rlod. I could use either the towel trick or stipped down and unplug the fans and manually let it over heat, which would remedy the problem for short periods of time. 15 minutes max. So I finally got mad, and stripped everything back down. I recleanned the processors, and applied VERY LITTLE Artic Silver 5. I mean LITTLE! Just enough that it was covering the processors. I had previously applied way too much. I read a tutorial from Artic Silver that said, these size processors only requir about 1/2 a grain of rice sized drop of AR5 to cover the processor. Then I further removed the top metal washer closest the heat sink. Reassembled, and manually heated by removing power to the fans. I tested it running for like 3 hours after that. No problems what so ever. So my advice. Start from scratch, if you have too much AR5, it can make a huge difference. When it froze on mine, it almost went to a grid pattern on the screen, which to me, I thought ment GPU, but when I was cleaning the CPU i noticed that the AR5 was messed up on the surface. Either way, while testing, the fans never once went into that overdrive cooling. When I first did the MOD, it almost immediately did that. I guess that is the lesson here.

MediaIcon

Hope this helps some of the people who are having troubles.
I would like to also take this opertunity to thank ALL who have contributed. Thank you guys so much. Saved my a$$ here.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DrJeckyll on May 14, 2007, 06:48:00 AM

Is there any way to test a 360 without running it for months on end?
I heard from a friend that some games tend to put more stress on the machine. The game Saints Row was mentioned. I could imagine that this game can put extra stress on the hardware because of the continous loading and rendering causing the gpu and the drive on top to heat up substantially.

Anyway I just did my own simple version of the X-clamp replacement and my 360. Before it went from not booting properly, freezing and the 3rol from running the COD3-game on the background for about 4-6 hours without a hitch. Aren't there any methods with which you can quickly determine if the mod worked or not? ie: dumping a towel on it and clocking the 360 till it overheats?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on May 14, 2007, 10:39:00 AM

gears of war seems to be the most gpu/cpu demanding game out there

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dontakeshat on May 14, 2007, 07:45:00 PM

I did Lawdawgs method and I am still getting 3 red lights. I have tried loosening the bolts and sometimes I get one red light at the bottom right if they are loose enough. For the most part though it is just the 3 red lights. Either I make it too loose and it overheats in like 10 seconds or I make it too tight and just keep getting the 3 red lights. I have a nylon and flat metal washer in between the heatsink and bolt on the topside. And on the bottom side nylon and flat metal washer. Like in the tutorial. Any help at all is appreciated. Will post pics later.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Parnic on May 15, 2007, 12:36:00 AM

I just finished performing this fix on my code 0102 3RLOD xbox and it worked! I was pleasantly surprised to turn on the xbox after following your steps and have it play like usual. Can't thank you guys enough for your research and tutorials for saving me a ton of cash and heartache.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Mysta on May 15, 2007, 08:51:00 AM

Did the method, now i'm getting error 0102, if i tighten the heatsinks i get 0020. When i hit on button, it sits with center light on and the fans are on and going. after about 10-15 seconds it gives red lights but the fan still runs, any suggestions?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Mysta on May 15, 2007, 09:18:00 AM

On a side note to my post above, I can hit the button to search for wireless controllers before it rlod and it looks(and finds if you have one going). and now i'm getting 0022 error code o.0

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jetlae on May 15, 2007, 10:31:00 AM

I performed lawdawgs fixed and it worked for 3 weeks. The problem now is I get sound but no video. At first, the video was grainy but then 10 seconds later no video at all, just sound. Now, everytime I turn it on, I don't see any video, not even grainy video, just sound,

Here's what I tried so far:

1. unplug and replug all wires and hard drive and replug back in. I also tried leaving out the hard drive. still no video
2. I check the hdtv/tv switch, it is set to tv, also switch it back and forth, still no video
3. tried on different tv. still no video
4. check the settings on the tv(color, input type, etc) and it is set correct.
5. for the heck of it, I connected the 360 to the vcr and from the vcr to the tv, same thing, just sound, no video
6. Tried 4 different game disk (originals and backups) and a movie disk, still no video

I will try:
1. get new cables from gamestop.
2. adjust screws

I will post with the results tonight.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Decepticon420 on May 15, 2007, 10:50:00 AM

I am going to attempt LawDawg's X-Clamp replacement method, but I have a minor problem. The Lowe's Part # codes do not match anything at the Lowe's that I go to (York, PA and I am going to try the one in MD as well). Is the 'wording' correct on that 'M5-.08x10 Machine screws'? I can find everything else except those machine screws in particular. I have seen other packages of machine screws worded similarly (ie: M10 5 x 40mm) but I have never seen a M5-.08 x XXX (where there are decimal values).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Decepticon420 on May 15, 2007, 11:12:00 AM

NvrMind, found the explanation I needed. Will try this asap and let you know what the results are. Luckily I have another Prem. Console I can use!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darkmike57 on May 15, 2007, 06:28:00 PM

It worked for me. I had error 0110 and 0102. Only the right bottom side isnt sitting correctly. But it still works.

I love you lawdawg0931. In a heterosexual way.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 15, 2007, 09:54:00 PM

QUOTE(jetlae @ May 15 2007, 11:31 AM)

I don't see any video, not even grainy video, just sound
I will try:
1. get new cables from gamestop.
2. adjust screws

I will post with the results tonight.

You got me stumped on this...if it's not the video cables

@darkmike57
Glad to hear it...(the "worked" part) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Neo_9000uk on May 16, 2007, 02:56:00 AM

Hi all,

Im looking at doing this mod with a 360 but i cant seem to find the parts i need. I live in the UK and i know another poster posted details of getting the parts from a UK supplier (B&Q) but when i go onto there website i cant find the parts and the quickcodes dont work?!

If anybody can help and point me in the right direction for the parts it would be greatly appreciated!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jetlae on May 16, 2007, 08:43:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 15 2007, 10:54 PM)

You got me stumped on this...if it's not the video cables

@darkmike57
Glad to hear it...(the "worked" part) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Got the new cable from gamestop, still didn't worked. Like before, when I first started it up with the new cable, it looked good for about 5 seconds (has video and sound) after the xbox 360 splash screen, the video started to get worse. By the time it loaded the Ghost Recon Advanced WarFighter main menu, I couldn't tell what was on the tv screen (I could see something there but I couldn't make it out), I then let it sit there for a two minute while it was playing the graw video (video was getting worse and worse), by the 2.5 minute mark, no video at all, just sound.

Thinking it was something with my setup, I followed the tut again (unscrew, reapply AS5 and rescrew etc).

Same thing, video was fine for about 5 seconds and got worse by the minute until no video at all.

Looks like my 360 is out of commission. I'm looking into 3rd party repair places that repairs the 360...any suggestion? Thanks for the help.

QUOTE(Neo_9000uk @ May 16 2007, 03:56 AM)

it's possible the parts are not online. I had the same issue at Lowes in the US. I had to go to the store and I found it there.

Just take the list of parts with you and you should be able to find it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Herculezz on May 16, 2007, 04:20:00 PM

thank you so much this workde perfectly. my xbox went out 3 days prior to my warranty expiring i sent it in and they fixed it they then gave me an additional 30 day warranty and not barely 40 days later it did it again. now thanks to your awesome method it works flawlessly again. YOU ARE A GOD!!!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 16, 2007, 11:50:00 PM

@ jetlae

This sounds like a problem with the GPU side still getting too hot. Take the top & bottom cases off, lay the DVD off to the left (still plugged in) to expose the GPU. Find a small fan or similar to blow directly on to the GPU, and try to recreate the freezing. If that takes care of it, then you will need to find a way to cool the GPU better. RBJTech's cooling mods are pretty much necessary for this...

I posted this on the previous page, but video freezing points to the GPU

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: osva on May 17, 2007, 07:09:00 AM

I've done it..Still have 3rlod. Now I have error 0003.
No success.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Decepticon420 on May 17, 2007, 12:37:00 PM

Had 3rlod, sent away to a NON M$oft repair person. Worked for about a week. Then R6:Vegas would lock up after about 5 mins and I would get the 3rlod again.

Tried the LawDawg method (used 12mm bolts though) and tightened until very snug. Got the 3rlod at first, let it overheat with no fans until i got two lights. Powered off, reconnected the fans, powered right back up no probs! Been running GoW and R6:Vegas for about 2 hours now, playing both equally. I noticed that the temps on the exhaust is noticeably lower (with 12v mod previously installed) by feel (don't have a therm right now).

Bolt, metal washer, nylon washer, motherboard, nylon washer, metal washer, and finally the HS.

Now I wanna make a custom case for this so the MB won't bend when I screw the MB down due to the large bolts - not a huge deal though. Also am going to add some more fans or possibly a liquid cooling method. Maybe even make that 360 laptop I've been reading about.

I'll keep this updated!

Update: I screwed down the AV connection area, power connector area and the HD mount area, but not all the way. Just enough that the holes line up and the MB doesn't shift around when inserting plugs or whatnot. Still going strong with the case back on, oh and I added the airflow shroud extensions over the GPU and CPU - just pieces of non waxed cardboard cut to fit. Am getting MUCH more air flow throughout the entire box and I can actually feel more suction from the air vent holes pulling air in.

Next up, LAN LED mod!

Thanks LawDawg and RBJTech for all your research!!!!

@ jetlae

have you looked at the bottom of yer MB where the GPU is? Any obvious problems there - such as trace scratch, component breakage, burnt traces or chips and what not? That is kinda weird too, since if the box detected a problem with the GPU it would give you an error - at least I would think so. Also look at your AV connections on the MB, same deal any obvious problems? If you have access to one, get a jewelers loop (magnifying glass) and look, you may find something really small that could have a big impact.

This post has been edited by Decepticon420: May 17 2007, 07:38 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: WhiteBoy on May 18, 2007, 07:44:00 PM

Just wanted to say....I finally did this and it fixed the 3 red lights. The xbox is cooling off right now so I will post back with more info after I do further testing.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DrexBrightblade on May 18, 2007, 08:22:00 PM

*sigh* I would have like to have finished this process, but it seems the hardware store I went to may have given me the wrong size materials. The washers collide just barely against the other heat sink's washers, thus preventing me from screwing in the bolts all the way. This causes two washers to stack on top of another washer beside it. Two bolts jut out about maybe a cm or 2 from the others preventing me from putting the motherboard all the way in the bottom frame.

Could this be a possible error on my end? Im not too grand with technical know-how, but I don't see how I can mess something as simple as this up.

Could I leave the layout (below) like this and it will still be ok?

0--------------0*--------0
|||||||||||||||| |||||||||||
|||||||||||||||| |||||||||||
|||||||||||||||| |||||||||||
0--------------*0---------0

Where the 0's are the bolts and *'s represent where I would not have a bolt.

Or perhaps I could leave the bottom silver frame out completely when re-assembling?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DrexBrightblade on May 18, 2007, 08:59:00 PM

I was suggested that I could simply file the sides of the washers that collide against eachother. Would any of you suggest the same?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DrexBrightblade on May 18, 2007, 10:55:00 PM

Well, I did everything in the instructions down to a T (with the slight modification of filing down the sides of some of the washers to fix the above mentioned issue); still had the 3 red lights. I'm not quite sure what went wrong...I suppose I can try and clean the CPU and GPU chips again (though they had maybe 5% of the thermal stuff covered on it, and it was around the edges), but man..taking apart that 360 is a pain in the ass...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DrexBrightblade on May 18, 2007, 11:41:00 PM

Ok, round 2. So far I'm down to re-cleaning the GPU and CPU chips and they are 100% perfectly clean now.

I read back on a few posts and I believe I put too much AS5 on my first go. I'm going to put about as much as a grain of rice, but before I do that, there's a decent bit of excess AS5 from the first encounter on the outside edges(on the green pad thingy that the silver/reflective ones stand on), should I remove that as well or does it really matter? Also, should I spread out the AS5 or leave it in a tiny ball like shape

Thank you and sorry for the multiple back to back posts

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DrexBrightblade on May 19, 2007, 01:05:00 AM

Seems like having too much AS5 was my problem. Green lights for now, but I'm still a bit skeptical (since it didn't work my first try, but I'll try and be hopeful and keep you all updated).

Here's a few things you may want to put in your tutorial

Most importantly, not to use too much AS5. To use pretty much as little as possible and spread it out with their finger. Only a slight film of it should cover the chip

Tell them the basic supplies they'll need to take apart the system (torque head sizes 8 and 10, needle nose pliers)

some people need almost every detail told to them.

Keep up the good work guys, you're all saints

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: phiquach on May 19, 2007, 02:43:00 AM

or for the AS5, you can do what i do, i just put a small drop in the middle and then put the heatsink on, the pressure from the heatsink will spread it by itself. that is how i do it. the other way is to use a razor to "slide" the paste evenly and produce a thin layer

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darkmike57 on May 20, 2007, 08:16:00 AM

My 360 is still in good working order, and its been on for about 48 hours straight. Amazing how $5 in parts can fix a $400 machine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Hork the Zombie on May 20, 2007, 08:50:00 AM

If I use Dynex instead of Arctic could that be the problem?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 20, 2007, 02:19:00 PM

just wondering wht is the longest time some xbox lasted with thi method to this date

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 21, 2007, 10:38:00 AM

QUOTE(Hork the Zombie @ May 20 2007, 10:26 AM)

If I use Dynex instead of Arctic could that be the problem?

I've never heard of Dynex before - but upon researching it, looks fairly decent. High silver content by weight, but still unknown (not heard people talking about it in the forums either). Just because AS5 is proven, I would stick with it!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ATLien69 on May 21, 2007, 11:26:00 AM

Hmm mine has been running approx. 2 months now without a hitch after doing the x-Clamp replacement and talismood fans + other mods. here's a list of everything done:

1) New thermal paste... Arctic Silver
2) Shroud modification
3) Talismoon fans (just as loud, but 50% better cooling claims)
4) Fan Grill modification
5) X-Clamp replacement (just followed the tutorial to a T, except I used only metal washers, not nylon, as the nylon ones I bought were too thick; the metal ones were half the thickness)

This was after I fixed it the second time. First time I did not change the Talismood fans and X-Clamps and it ran for approx 2 weeks before giving me the 3 Red lights...now going strong onto month 2 with the additional X-Clamp and talismood fans (+redid the arctic silver when I opened it up for a second time)...so far I am a happy camper... knock on wood.... back to Halo 3!

BTW xbox live gamertag is ATLien69 for those that wish to add me...always looking for new friends.

Cheers!

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 20 2007, 04:55 PM)

just wondering wht is the longest time some xbox lasted with thi method to this date

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Mysta on May 21, 2007, 03:13:00 PM

I did everything i could think of for 0022 and then as a last resort i toweled it(well blanketed) and now i have 0102. Any suggestions?(this is after AS5 a few times, it's about 5 seconds before the red lights kick in, enough time to hit the "Find Controller" button and it to ring around a few times)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pipeme on May 21, 2007, 03:56:00 PM

Hi

I like Lawdawg's method due to the ease, but I also like RBJTech's method as it secures the board to the casing.

Would it be possible to just use longer screws with Lawdog's method? Same thickness so no drilling of the heat sinks would needed, but long enough to go from under the case into the heatsink as per Lawdog's method, but not too long so that you have to mod the heatsink as in RBJTech's method.

Just a thought. Anyone tried this?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 21, 2007, 05:35:00 PM

QUOTE(pipeme @ May 21 2007, 07:02 PM)

Yes u can use longer screws that wht i did so i didn;t have to dril hole sint the heatsink

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pipeme on May 21, 2007, 06:52:00 PM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 22 2007, 12:11 AM)

Yes u can use longer screws that wht i did so i didn;t have to dril hole sint the heatsink

Cool. What length did you use?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 21, 2007, 09:05:00 PM

wel i just cut thm to fit casue they where a bit long i just went to hardware store with the heatsink and ask thm if thy got any bolt to fit these thread and thy did and thn i cut like 1cm off of each but u don't have to do that i did it becasue i was butting a fan directly on top my gpu SRRY i don;t have an pic at the momment

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=604529

u can read tht caue i was think of putting a spring washer between the metal case and bolt so it compensate for thermal expansion rigt now i am using plastic waster to compensate for therma expansion but not sure how good that is working

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Dragon Curve on May 22, 2007, 02:14:00 AM

Another successful fix in my 360! I followed lawdawg's tutorial and now no more 3 red lights. I have some information for my success for other Australians though:

I rang around to Bunnings looking for the Dan's Premium 3/16 x 1/2 Screws. None of them knew what they were or ever heard of the brand. Most of them told me they plain didn't stock them. Couldn't find many other places that had a countersunken 3/16 x 1/2 screw.

In the end, I had to go to Bunnings for the Zenith washers and a spanner anyway and lo and behold, there they were - right beside the Zenith washers! There were HEAPS of different Dan's Premium screws so I'd suggest just going there and looking around. This was Bunnings Warehouse at Oxley in Brisbane.

Furthermore, I got two packets of Zenith Flat Washers (qty 35 - zinc plated - silver in colour) and one packet of Zenith Machine Washers (qty 50 - silver in colour) - both 3/16".

It turns out the outside diameter of the Zenith Flat Washers was far too much to sit the GPU and CPU heatsinks beside one another; however, the machine washers were perfect so I used them. You may need to get a couple of different types of washers to be certain.

I ended up putting 2 washers on top and 3 on the bottom for the CPU - and 2 washers on top and 4 on the bottom for the GPU. This was the only combination I could find for it not to overheat immediately.

Things I think should be in the tutorial:

1. It really should mention just to put a "rice grain" size of ArcticSilver on each chip - I had to search around for quite some time before I found the answer to this.

2. If you don't have the exact parts (i.e. outside US), a little trial and error with the quantity of the washers on each chip may be needed.

Other things I ran into:

1. I left the case off completely to test if it was working (not willing to close it up and open it again if it didn't work) but I forgot to put the plastic fan "canal" on the case so the fan air would direct into the heatsinks. It overheated in about 3 minutes. Silly me - but it's something to be aware of.

Other than that - success! If any Australians are having trouble and would like some info on my success - please PM me.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bluebronco28 on May 22, 2007, 05:21:00 AM

Is this ArcticSilver stuff just Thermal Paste.?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 22, 2007, 07:24:00 AM

QUOTE(bluebronco28 @ May 22 2007, 08:27 AM)

Is this ArcticSilver stuff just Thermal Paste.?

Yes actricsilver5 is just thermalpaste but they do have them in other form like an epoxy form but u don't want to get tht

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Decepticon420 on May 22, 2007, 08:39:00 AM

'Nother update:

Fixed 3RLOD on 5/18 ran beautifully for 4 hours.

Had no time to test until Monday, had a 12 hour gaming session with some heavy hitters (R6:vegas Single and Multi, GoW s/mp, Windows Media Center sessions, watched a DVD, played some more games and dl'ed lots of demos and game extras. Not a single hitch! No freezing at all! System still runs significantly cooler than ever before.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 22, 2007, 09:12:00 AM

QUOTE(pipeme @ May 21 2007, 05:32 PM)

I have said many times now that I prefer (recommend) RBJTech's tutorial, as it's more secure. Alot of people have used mine & had great success with it, so that in itself justifies its existence. The parts listed by me (Lawdawg) on RBJTech's tutorial will pass through the heatsink without drilling them out (just barely). You will have to remove small sections of the heatsinks so the washer-spring washer-washer-locknut can fit down snug. Give it a shot!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Dragon Curve on May 22, 2007, 09:18:00 AM

lawdawg - a question. Have you been made aware of any instances where your method fails after a period of time? I am curious of the longevity of this method versus RBJtech

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: modchipper on May 22, 2007, 09:43:00 AM

I have tried both RBJtech's Tutorial and Lawdawg's and both worked first try. I prefer Lawdawg's because it's cheaper and way quicker IMO. I will keep both running for a few days and report back with my findings.

Much Thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 22, 2007, 02:32:00 PM

QUOTE(Dragon Curve @ May 22 2007, 10:54 AM)

lawdawg - a question. Have you been made aware of any instances where your method fails after a period of time? I am curious of the longevity of this method versus RBJtech

There are mixed results from different people & different Xbox 360's. What I've told people is try the one you feel comfortable with & see what the results are. If need be (because of red lights or freezing) do the other method and see what those results are. Both of my boxes started with my tutorial, then froze up after sometime of game-play. I have since done them with RBJTech's method (using the parts I listed on his tutorial), along with multiple cooling mods, & all is well. But anyone who has used my tutorial & has a working 360 at this point....Don't fix what isn't broken!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ATLien69 on May 22, 2007, 08:12:00 PM

With your fix my 360 has been working perfect for almost 2 months!

Knock on wood...don't want to jynx it!!!

Cheers!

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 22 2007, 05:08 PM)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RTigger on May 23, 2007, 10:37:00 PM

Just completed the Lawdawg method, tested & working fine.

My entire gaming future has been saved by you guys, keep up the great work!

- 360 was freezing after about 10 minutes of play earlier in the week.
- Had 3 RLOD this afternoon, error code 0102.
- Went out and bought the hardware listed (@ Canadian Tire for you Canadians out there, look for the bulk metric section under Nuts & Bolts) for about $10,
- Took it all apart, cleaned the existing thermal paste with q-tip and rubbing alcohol,
- Re-applied some Arctic Silver 5, re-attached GPU heatsink with lawdawg method, re-attached CPU heatsink with x-clamp (if it ain't broke, why fix it?)
- Let overheat (took about 5 mins),
- Reassembled case, let cool for about 30 mins, and it's been playing PGR3 for about 3 hours now.

My personal notes:

- I only used the nylon washer on the top part of the motherboard between the GPU and heatsink - I found that with the extra metal washer the heatsink wasn't quite flush with the gpu core (tested by looking at distribution of arctic silver after attaching and removing heatsink)

- I wasn't able to find 10mm length screws at my hardware store, so I bought 8 mm and 12 mm. 8's ended up being too short, but the 12's seemed to work fine

- Home Depot sucks ass, I stood in the isle looking for metric measurement hardware for about 30 minutes, without seeing a single salesperson to help me out. Eventually I just stormed out, frustrated that I wasn't able to find anything. </rant>

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Noes on May 24, 2007, 01:36:00 AM

I've always been gratefull with this board. Since yesterday it has a special place in my heart. My 360 was failing like madness. Started off with crashing, then the 3ROL came on. Tried a lot of things. The power supply trick, updating the 360. After that i came across this guide to replace the X-Clamps. The problem they produce sounded logical to me. At first i was sceptical to try it and also a little afraid because i didn't want to break my 360 any further. Yesterday i thought: Well i'm out of warranty anyways so i might just give it a try. I got the necessary parts, i stead of AS5 i used thermal grease from Zalman (Zalman ZM-STG1,Thermal Grease) which has gotten some rood reviews. So i did everything. Heated to 360 up for about 2.5 till 3 minutes, tightened the screws well and re-assembled the box.

The result: It's working great !

I've been playing PGR3 and PES6 both for about an hour, and NO crashes. Before the replacement i couldn't finish a 2 lap race in PGR3 before it would give me the checkboard graphics accompanied by a loud screetching sound.

So to Lawdawg0931 and the community, many thanks !

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: qent4977 on May 24, 2007, 02:18:00 AM

Many Thanks to Lawdawg and RBJtech for the wonderful tutorials and everybody here in the forums, just goes to show how a little effort and cooperation goes a long way!. I just repaired my xbox360 with this method. Bought a broken xbox360 for $100 and fixed it with this method! now i have 2 xbox360 wahoo! God bless y'all

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 24, 2007, 08:35:00 AM

@ RTigger , Noes & qent4977
Awesome news, it's still cool hearing that this tutorial is giving back to the community. This board has been a wealth of knowledge for me, and has taught me many things - so glad I found a way to give back. Game on!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sti4j0n on May 24, 2007, 10:08:00 AM

I couldn't get it to work yesterday... please help
Perhaps a few steps i did screwed it all up, maybe someone else here is in the same boat.

Ok first off
1) I totally disassembled my xbox, took the xclamps off etc.
2) totally cleaned the chips, untill miror finish..
3) applied the as5 and got all the washers in line, and fastened down the heat sink
4) ---> i tightened down VERY snug, then realized that i was only suposed to secure lightly

so i unfastened it just to it was barely in...
left the fan out, and fired it up..
it flashed 3 red lights for not more than 4 seconds, and turned into the two flashing left lights......
i tried it again and it only took 4 seconds to turn into 2 lights... so i reassembled... put the FAN back in and everything ..

boot it up... 3 lights ... damn it

anyone know what i should do at this point

TIA

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 24, 2007, 10:38:00 AM

well 1st of all if u get the 2 red light in just 4 second that mean the GPU and or the CPU heatsink are not touching the DIE fo the processor make sure thy are touching the dies of the processor sometime u have to vary how tight u tighten one bolt
some person have to tighten one bolt tighter than the other for there to work u have to play around with tigten the bolt and using diffrent washer
i don't recommend you using lawdawg method u should use RBJ tut its better than this method

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: rgtaa on May 24, 2007, 01:26:00 PM

Lawdawq's method worked for 2 days but now I'm getting freezing on graw2 demo and rainbow vegas demo. I can play card games and geowars with no freezing.

I was getting 0110 error before fix.

No more red lights, just freeze on heavy graphics, I wasn't getting any freeze on heavy graphics for 2 days.

Do I need to add or remove washers on only one side of the x-clamp replacement. What do you guys suggest?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 24, 2007, 03:00:00 PM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 24 2007, 12:14 PM)

i don't recommend you using lawdawg method u should use RBJ tut its better than this method

'Better' is a strong word....even I have recommended RBJTech's method over mine - but that's because it's 'more secure'. I continue to follow this tutorial because many people have used it & gotten good results. My post #280 page 19 is exactly how I feel.....

@rgtaa
Freezing graphics points to the GPU side (obviously), so try cooling mods that focus on the GPU. RBJTech's page has multiple cooling mods & they are pretty much necessary at this point in your problem area.

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: May 24 2007, 10:05 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: rgtaa on May 24, 2007, 03:26:00 PM

Thanks

I'll work on adding the cooling mod's on GPU side.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dweekie on May 24, 2007, 05:44:00 PM

Used Lawdawg's method. I made one change though. Instead of a flat metal washer on the bottom of the motherboard, I used a #10 Lock Washer (Lowes part # 58135). It is basically a flat washer with a cut and is bent up. As the screw tightens, it compresses and becomes flat. I think this gives it a little bit more flexibility since the flex in the washer will somewhat compensate for board warping as it heats and cools. Maybe I'm wrong. Either case, it works so far but only time will tell.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bojngles on May 24, 2007, 08:58:00 PM

QUOTE(dweekie @ May 24 2007, 08:20 PM)

I do the same exact thing to all my systems.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 24, 2007, 11:33:00 PM

QUOTE(dweekie @ May 24 2007, 07:20 PM)

Anyone else found this #10 lock washer working better than the one recommended on Lawdawg's guide?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dweekie on May 25, 2007, 12:56:00 AM

QUOTE(dweekie @ May 24 2007, 08:20 PM)

I think the main issue is that the lock washer I listed may be thicker than a flat washer. The board doesn't seem to lie flat in the casing as the screwheads are too thick. Maybe a thinner washer or removing the nylon washer would make it fit better. I just kind of screwed things in tightly. I don't want to undo everything so I will leave it as is for now.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jagtown on May 25, 2007, 06:05:00 AM

Weird question here I know but.......

Has anyone tried either x-clamp replacement if your freezing / 3 red lights issue started immediately after the spring update?

I still think there is something fishy about it... I might try sending it to microsoft first... maybe ill get lucky...
But if anyone out there has tried this fix and found success at least I know I have a next step if the Canadian Depot decides not to swap my console... (by the way.... anyone had any success with that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) )

This post has been edited by jagtown: May 25 2007, 01:05 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvsone on May 25, 2007, 07:51:00 AM

This method works great. I was using all metal washers and kept my 360 going for a month. Using all metal washers isn't a great idea and I knew it at the time but it's all I had.

So I got some nylon washers and man did I get a better tight fit. That extra softness of the nylon washer helps pull everything together nice and firm.

Anyone who is having 2 red light problems or freezing problems hasn't made good contact between the chips and the heatsinks. There's a 3mm gap between the motherboard and the heatsinks. Make sure your washers aren't pushing up a bigger gap then this. Make sure you use AS5. Make sure the heatsinks aren't loose. If you screws are too tight it can sometimes cause 3ROL, don't overtighten the screws. Leave your 360 horizontal after you have done this mod, and it could be a good idea to have it sitting on a book (or something similar) with the bottom vents free to let out air.

This method works, and it's A LOT easier to do then the RBJtech method. I would recommend that anyone not heavily into modding try this method first and foremost before you start drilling, cutting, and sanding bits inside your 360 using the RBJtech method.

Thanks again Lawdawg.

This post has been edited by dvsone: May 25 2007, 02:55 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: BrooksyX on May 25, 2007, 05:30:00 PM

I am planning on doing this fix to a core I got for really cheap of craigslist. So far it has been working great but the guy I bought it from said he got the 3 red light error.

Ayways I went to lowes today and didn't find anything close to what it is needed. Does anyone know the Home Depot part numbers or at least the correct sizes of what to use?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: l0tics on May 25, 2007, 10:37:00 PM

Now that I've done this mod a few times, I have some things to share. First, you can use longer (12mm) screws, it doesn't matter. On the cpu they could be even longer. Hardware stores are worthless, go strait to lowe's. I've also noticed that there is no point in using washers on the underside of the mobo, it just doesn't do anything there except possibly make the screw heads press against the metal casing. People are probably going to disagree with me here, but really, what do they do? I've been using all metal washers and have had no problems. As long as you use the right size and don't tighen them too much, there shouldn't be any problems.

This post has been edited by l0tics: May 26 2007, 05:43 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 25, 2007, 10:58:00 PM

QUOTE(l0tics @ May 26 2007, 12:13 AM)

I've also noticed that there is no point in using washers on the underside of the mobo, it just doesn't do anything there except possibly make the screw heads press against the metal casing. People are probably going to disagree with me here.

Bingo! Someone is going to disagree with you.... The parts I listed were all carefully measured (multiple times) for accuracy. With the parts listed, the bolt head + washers equals the height of the stand-offs built into the case. If you use no washers, & your bolt head is standard size, your board can (& probably will) flex down towards the metal casing. We're trying to cancel the flexing, so I would recommend the washers.

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: May 26 2007, 05:58 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 26, 2007, 12:51:00 AM

Decided to use this method.

I have question on tighten the screw very snug? How snug is that? screw the screws all the way down until it screwed both side but not tighten it? or what ?

This post has been edited by ahtze: May 26 2007, 07:52 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SlickWilly440 on May 26, 2007, 02:14:00 AM

First of all Thank You LawDawg for the tutorial. If I didn't stumble across it, I probably wouldn't have built up the confidence to get a broken 360 for cheap on eBay on try out your fix.

When I got the 360 in the mail, I didn't want to go out and buy all the parts at once because I wasn't sure exactly what was wrong with this unit. It just came with the console and the power brick. So I went out and bought a 5 piece torque screw driver set.

So I took the unit apart, never thought it would be so easy, and all the parts were there, nothing was missing. I then proceeded to turn the unit on and try the error code test. At first I was getting the 4 flashing light, because I hadn't bought a video cable yet, but somehow I was able to get the error code....0110, which was a memory problem.

The next morning I pretty much took apart the whole unit include the X-Clamps and heat sinks. I was expecting to see huge blobs of thermal paste, but there was barely any on there. So I took some alcohol and Q-Tip and scrubbed the crap out of the heatsinks and the GPU/CPU until I got almost all the past off.

Later that afternoon, I wrote down the part number's and went to Lowe's. I brought along the metal bracket for the GPU (Copper) heatsink to make sure the screws fit at the store. At first I found the machine screws, but I couldn't find the bag with the specific part numbers. To make a short story long, I got some help and the guy pointed me to the specialty screw drawer, and they had parts that matched the exact numbers on the list. However they didn't have some of the parts, like the nylon or fiber washers. So in the end I ended up buying 30 5mm washers, and a bag of 10 half inch machine screws.

Then I went to Fry's and bought some Arctic Silver 5, and to Wal-mart to buy and RF adaptor.

Once I got home I immediately began the mod. I took some alcohol and whipped down the heatsinks and processors one more time to get rid on any dust. I first decided to put on the silver heatsink, so I slipped on the screws and washers in the propers holes on the board; for each screw I used three 5mm washers (all metal), one on bottom and two on top. I then placed a rice size blob of AS5 and tried to spread it out evenly with a metal edge, but I couldn't get it all on evenly (but what the hey).

So yeah the screws fall back down when you try to lift the baord and hand tighten the screws, so I placed the board on a spiral note book at the edge of my bed and hand screwed them down. I did the same thing with copper heatsink. Then I firmly tightened the screws down with a driver, turning part way all around. Overal I thought I didn't a pretty crappy job, because I couldn't tell if I removed all the old paste, correctly applied the new paste, and properly screwed the bolts on right. I totally expected the mod wouldn't work for me.

So placed the board back in the case, connected the drive, the front switch, power cable, and video cable. Now I expected to see the 3 red lights once I turned it one, but the Console Actually booted up to the dashboard just fine. I was totally surprised.

So I put the console back together and left it on for a few hours without doing anything and the 3 red light never appeared.

However at the time I had no way to navigate the option because I hadn't bought a controller yet. But I remembered the psp IR Application (homebrew) could be used as a 360 controller, and that worked just fine.

I quickly discovered that the drive would keep on getting the message "unplayable disc" for every type of media that I tried, I was pretty disappointed (it boots fine but can't read discs), so I went to sleep for the night.

The next day I decided to take apart the Hitachi drive to see what was wrong with it. As soon as I took off the top cover, I quickly realized that I wasn't the first to take apart the drive, because three rubber pads were duck taped to the bottom of the top cover, probably to keep the disc down?

So I was pondering on what the heck was wrong, until I started messing with the white place disc that goes on top of the spinning device to hold disc in place. I took it out of the top cover by opening up the top compartment that was closed by a metal disc. I ejected the drive and when the tray closed I quickly place the plastic disc on top and held it down with a screw drive. And just like that the disc booted perfectly.

I figured it had to be something with the plastic disc not fitting properly into place when the tray closed, but the methods I tried to fix it didn't work. Then I realized that there was this magnet attached to the plastic disc that moved around and came off, which I thought was normal. However I realized that the magnet needed to be attached to the spinning device, so every time the tray close the top and bottom parts would magnetically stick together and perfectly hold the disc in place. I glued the magnet down and wala it worked, every disc I tried booted fine.

So I let a dvd video play for a few hours and there were no problems with the unit. Even though I haven't had any problems so far, I still haven't tried playing a 360 game on the console yet, so I don't know if the 3 red light problem will reappear (I hope not).

Since the previous owner didn't discover the magnet problem, I was worried that they unnecessarily increase the voltage on the dvd pot. I check to test my assumption and I was correct, the dvd pot had been increased to 3.2 ohms. I then decreased the voltage until the pot read 3.53 ohms, then I tested some discs and they worked perfectly.

I also thought that the previous owner might have flashed the firmware, so I had no way of checking to see if it was or restore because I didn't have the backuped firmware. So I said screw it and followed the steps to flash a Hitachi 46D drive, and everything worked out perfect. (Use the Xtreme Stealth 2.4, later found out that I didn't need the backuped flash to restore the original firmware).

So I plan on getting a demo disc to test out actual game play before putting more money into the unit. Because you never know, the 3 red light error might show up again. Once I have done that I will report back and post an update.

Sorry for the long post.

Thanks for reading!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: alan1812 on May 26, 2007, 07:26:00 AM

hi could anyone supply me with these as i am in the uk and can not find them

a)   8      M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws #138433
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)   16      #10 Flat Washers Nylon #139065
c)   16      5mm Flat Washers Metal #138319

or the Fiber washers instead of Nylon

thanks alan (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

This post has been edited by alan1812: May 26 2007, 02:28 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: l0tics on May 26, 2007, 07:53:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 26 2007, 06:34 AM)

Ok, good an explaination. I think I'm going to leave the one washer in the box I just did, because it had slightly larger screw heads (phillips head screws from home depot, the slot heads are shorter).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MarutiDriver on May 26, 2007, 09:54:00 AM

To the people who ask how tight should the screws/bolts be, wouldn't be ideal to use a torque wrench (small, like 3/4) to tighten and get a precise reading on how much you have to tighten?

Just a random thought I had.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ag3nt-S on May 27, 2007, 03:54:00 AM

Just thought i'd let everyone know I followed the guide and my console has since been running flawlessly for over 2 weeks now. Previously I was getting frequent 3RLOD, graphics glitches leading to total lock ups etc. I'm a very happy customer!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: alan1812 on May 27, 2007, 08:53:00 AM

going to get these and try this out as my m8's one still had the Protective Foil left on the Heatsink

Talismoon whisper fans
ARCTIC SILVER 5 + ARCTICLEAN

From UK B&Q
Machine screws 5mm 0.8mm x 12mm ( code AVF-069352 )
Flat washer 5mm (Code AVF-064968)

Online code
Machine Screws Countersunk Slotted Steel M5 x (L)12mm 10 Pack(EAN:5020789069352
Flat Washers Bright Zinc Plated M5 (L)60mm Pack - EAN: 5020789064968

This post has been edited by alan1812: May 27 2007, 03:54 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 27, 2007, 08:59:00 AM

QUOTE(ag3nt-S @ May 27 2007, 05:30 AM)

Glad to hear it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Have you done any cooling mods as well? Good idea....

@MarutiDriver
I think a torque wrench is a little extreme, mainly because right away - it sounds too tight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
With people using different parts & such, just "real snug" works for most. A couple people stated they've been using a lock washer up against the board instead of the regular metal washer. I'm not ready to accept that, as pressure will be greater (on the board) right where the slit in the washer is. It's not as well distributed as a regular metal washer. If you could use both without changing the height requirement (same as case stand-off), then I would say OK. Metal washer against mobo - lock washer - then bolt head. But I think that would be taller than the stand-offs. When tightening down all the outside connections (video, power, USB), they would be out of line & flex alot upon tightening....IMO

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 27, 2007, 04:44:00 PM

Need quick help!!

After I overheat the 360. it says as it is cooling off, remove it from the case and tighten the crews ?

What does it mean? Wait for 10min or quickly tighten the screws?

Thanks!

This post has been edited by ahtze: May 27 2007, 11:44 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 27, 2007, 05:52:00 PM

Just done the x-clamp but It freeze during the first 1-6sec of the cut scene or 1-6sec during gameplay. Doesn't freeze in the dashboard. No more 3rled when I restart the 360.

What can I do ?

Tested it the seven times and the 360 run longer without freeze. What's going on ?

This post has been edited by ahtze: May 28 2007, 01:10 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 27, 2007, 08:07:00 PM

Not sure if I bought the correct #10 flatwashers.

The package says #10 FlatWashers SAE-Zinc Planas Cinc 24 pcs/Pzs 490686. Is that the one?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on May 27, 2007, 09:46:00 PM

Wow! My 360 is running smoothly now!

What I did was I only put one #10 FlatWashers SAE-Zinc Planas Cinc 490686 on top of the motherboard(The guide says put 2 different washer) and it is working great! No more freezing.

I am so happy.

Thanks for the guide!

edit: I accidentally cut of one of the fin of the silver heat sink(I thought I have to cut them) but realize I don't have to. So sad >.>;

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ag3nt-S on May 28, 2007, 05:14:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 28 2007, 01:35 AM)

Glad to hear it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Have you done any cooling mods as well? Good idea....

The cooling mods are next on the list, that talismoon fan you recommended will be going in shortly.

Oh and so everyone knows, I found that the 10mm screws combined with 1 metal screw and 1 fibre screw on each end of the motherboard allowed me to tighten the screws right up using just a philips screw driver, no need for torque wrenches etc. It was a real snug fit.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: luminous on May 28, 2007, 06:53:00 AM

[quote name='alan1812' date='May 27 2007, 05:29 PM' post='4007810']

I`m using these from b&q

5mm Flat washers code avf-064968(they don`t stock nylon washers) and
5mm x0.8x10 machine screws avf-069918 (8 in pack)

Where you getting the talismoons from? considering it myself

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: andreq on May 28, 2007, 09:26:00 AM

Hi all!

Just want to let you know that my 360 is now in good working condition.

I finaly used Artic Silver 5 (after a LONG cleaning)

I used 1 metal + 1 rubber (yep) washer on both side of the motherboard and I tighten the screw really hard.

Did a little overheat (30 sec ?)

and now it seem to work well.

I have no game to test it... nor did I took time to download some demo... but I can see the dashboard...and no glitch.

The xbox seem to run quite cool. I did a little cooling mod on the white plastic part to separe the 2 airflow and it seem to help a bit.

Thanks for your tutorial !

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MarutiDriver on May 28, 2007, 09:41:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ May 27 2007, 11:35 AM)

Yeah, that's why I said it was a random though, although it could be nice to have exact values, like tighten so and so at 1.5Nm or something, but you're right saying that not everyone uses the same parts.

And don't be scared, a torque wrench doesn't equal to super tight, it's just a way to measure exactly how much torque you're putting on the bolt.

Now, if talking about cylinder heads... that's another story.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Mysta on May 28, 2007, 06:30:00 PM

ok, is it possible that my board has flexed to a point where 1 washer is not enough and 2 washers is too much? maybe i should get two thin washers? the gpu heatsink seemed ot start to bend when i started tightening it(around the gpu) with 1 washer, and with 2 it seems to overheat almost immediately(no lights for about 5 seconds then 3rlod 0102), so is this a possibility?

This post has been edited by Mysta: May 29 2007, 01:33 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 29, 2007, 01:58:00 AM

I am trying this fix and have an incredibly n00b question..how do i get the original bolts out of the heatsinks?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on May 29, 2007, 02:33:00 AM

QUOTE(Kruesader @ May 29 2007, 09:34 AM)

I am trying this fix and have an incredibly n00b question..how do i get the original bolts out of the heatsinks?

unscrew them. Either use a socket, a wrench or pliers.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 29, 2007, 02:34:00 AM

QUOTE(Bravoexo @ May 29 2007, 07:09 PM)

unscrew them. Either use a socket, a wrench or pliers.

cheers

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 29, 2007, 03:26:00 AM

i find mine are done up incredibly hard, using pliers just grinds around the nut.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MarutiDriver on May 29, 2007, 07:21:00 AM

QUOTE(Kruesader @ May 29 2007, 06:02 AM)

i find mine are done up incredibly hard, using pliers just grinds around the nut.

Better get a socket wrench or a small, adjustable one.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: visualenkryption on May 29, 2007, 06:51:00 PM

i'm having a hell of a time with this fix, i went to Ace Hardware and got the machine screws just as listed

8 x .80 x 10 mm M5 Machine Screws

I also got 16 nylon washers, and 16 metal washers

The problem with this is when I put both the nylon and metal washer on the screw, stick it through the board, and put the next two washers on, the screw doesn't have enough thread to screw into the heatsinks

When i bought this stuff, it looked to me as though the screws were going to be too short, so I ended up going to Home depot and buying some Machine Screws that were round on the end instead of flat, all the washers fit fine.

I booted the xbox and followed the directions about overheating, however its been over 3 hours and everytime i boot the xbox it's only a matter of time before I get the 2 (not 3) red lights on the left side. I know this code means the system is overheating, but what the hell is going on?

I tried removing one of the washers between the heatsink and the moterhboard, with no success either ... in fact it looks as though the headsink is bowed because of too much pressure like this ...

any ideas?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ag3nt-S on May 29, 2007, 07:44:00 PM

QUOTE(Kruesader @ May 29 2007, 06:34 PM)

I am trying this fix and have an incredibly n00b question..how do i get the original bolts out of the heatsinks?

I used a spanner to get mine off. It was a little tight but came off without to much fuss.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: visualenkryption on May 29, 2007, 11:01:00 PM

Hey guys, after an entire night of continuously trying to power up my Xbox 360, it would run for about 2-3 minutes and then overheat. No more 3 red lights, but two on the left side of the power circle. The fans WERE plugged in, and I noticed that the longer the xbox was on, the louder the fans would get ... until it finally overheated. I have no idea what's going on, here's a little more information about the process I went through and some of the materials I used, any help would be greatly appreciated!!

To start things off, I removed the casing and heat sinks, removed the posts attached to the heatsinks and cleaned the currently thermal paste off of both the heat sinks and the chipsets.
IPB Image

You can see here a picture of the washers I bought. Left (Nylon), Right (Metal). Each stack is 4 washers on top of each other; you can clearly see that the nylon washers are a bit thicker than the metal ones. Is this normal?

IPB Image

Next, as previously mentioned in an earlier post of mine ... I first bought flathead machine screws. When i used them in conjunction with all four washers, there was not enough thread to screw into the heatsinks. Later I went to another hardware store and found the larger screw listed as the same size, with a different head. I noticed it looked bigger, and that's what I needed ... so I picked it up. I really don't know how these screws are considered to have the same measurements ...

IPB Image

Here are pictures where you can see how each of the screws fit through the board.

IPB Image

This image is tilted, but both of the top screws are the shorter screws. You can clearly see theres not enough thread.

IPB Image

The longer screws look pretty good.

IPB Image

And since I wasn't able to find Arctic Silver thermal paste, I got this stuff.
IPB Image

When i use the shorter screws, the max I can use is three washers and the heatsinks seem to be bowed because of the pressure. When I use the larger screws the life of the 360 before it dies is diminished. If anyone may know what's wrong, please let me know!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 30, 2007, 12:58:00 AM

all i can think of dude is that either one maybe the thermal compound is not good tryjust getting some normal silicon base to test it out casue tht cheap and u can play around with it and if it stop over heating you now it was ther therma compound ( i am using a silicone base thermal compound in my xbox casue i never got a chacne to get the as5 and its been like a month and i play everyday so i workfine but i have alot fans in my xbox lol)

second think my some weird day it could be either the gpu and or the cpu are not make contact with the die or are not making flush contract with the die ( i find that hard to beleive tho)

3rd it could be that some connection on the xbox is not connection correctly and it making the xbox think its over heating but this is also hard t believe becasue it take about 2 to 3 mins for a xbox to over heat with out fans or if die not making full contact ( if the heatsink are really hot in 2-3min thn its making full contact i the die and i could just be a hardware problem)
but if the heatsink are just midly hot or warm that means either the thermal compound is crap or not making good contact

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: King Khan on May 30, 2007, 01:23:00 AM

I just wanted to update everyone on my progress. After a successful x-clamp replacement I found myself able to play PG3 for hours without any issues. I did not play for a couple of days.

I decided to play two days back and my xbox started freezing from a cold boot. After some successful boots PG3 would freeze mid-race - the same as before I did the x-clamp replacement.

I got the RROL error 0103 - GPU/CPU Overheating I believe - all I could say was FUCK (several times).
I had used regular silicon paste so I thought that that was the problem. I don't have AS5 yet - it's hard when you live in the jungle LOL.

I opened the box up and found that one of my washers was thinner than the others. So I subbed the metal-nylon combo with two nylons to make the tandem have the same height as the other washers.

My xbox washers are like this:

-> 4x 1 metal washer between the GPU HS and Mobo
-> 4 x 1 metal washer between the CPU HS and Mobo

-> 3 x 1 metal washer + 1 nylon washer between the mobo and the screw head (underside of mobo)
-> 1 x 2 nylon washers between the mobo and the screw head (underside of mobo)

I left my xbox open from the top - so the GPU heatsink, DVD Drive etc are all exposed. I have a stand fan blowing air onto the exposed box and viola - she works again. I don't know how long this will last. My CPU HS feels hot when playing (but not too hot) - its hard to tell when u have a fan blasting at it lol. Once I am done playing I leave the fan on and let the HS get cool - is it ok to do this?

I want to do the Shroud Mod and Cut the Mesh at the back - according to RBJtech it improves airflow by 15% - so should I got ahead and do these mods? I feel they would help but I wanted to make sure before I cut out the back of the box.

Thanks to everyone - 1 monthish of a resurrected xbox thanks to you guys! Big Kudos to Lawdawg.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 30, 2007, 02:17:00 AM

I tried this fix, I did it up tight and have overheated it twice, it it will switch on, after 30 seconds I will get 3 red lights, no Image on the TV

what should i try doing?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: King Khan on May 30, 2007, 04:57:00 AM

Kruesader:
I have had similar trouble. Don't tighten the screws before you overheat. Get the screws snug (not too tight) and then overheat. Let it cool off and then tighten the screws (get them tight but don't over tighten as you might damage your mobo). If that does not work I suggest you adjust the number of washers between the GPU and CPU HS and the mobo. Hope this helps.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: alan1812 on May 30, 2007, 05:07:00 AM

get the Talismoon Whisper fans from ebay or http://www.modchipfitters.com/

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: alan1812 on May 30, 2007, 07:46:00 AM

tried it today as the 360 would not work unless it was open with a big office fan blowing cold air on to it and it still had the foil on heatsink

but after following the instructions on here
changed the x clamps
added talismoon fans

we have now been playing on it for 3 hours and no prob's so far
so thanx for the tutorial
alan

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 30, 2007, 09:01:00 AM

QUOTE(Kruesader @ May 30 2007, 05:23 AM)

I tried this fix, I did it up tight and have overheated it twice, it it will switch on, after 30 seconds I will get 3 red lights, no Image on the TV

what should i try doing?

wha is the error code that you are gettign when u turn on your xbox360

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: visualenkryption on May 30, 2007, 09:43:00 AM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 30 2007, 02:34 AM)

Thanks for trying to help man, I really appreciate it.

Here's what I did and it finally seems to be working, although it's only been running for about 5 minutes so it's probably a little bit early to tell if it's really fixed.

I removed all thermal compound once again, this time using acetone. Let the board dry overnights to eliminate risk of a short.

This morning I reapplied a thin amount of thermal-paste to ONLY the heatsink, and screwed them down using 2 washers on each side (1 nylon/ 1 metal)

Got two red lights, opened the console back up and took the heatsinks off to find there was no thermal paste on either of the die's for the GPU or CPU.

I then applied thermalpaste directly to the dies and reapplied the heatsinks this time leaving out a metal washer on top (1 nylon on top, 1 nylon + 1 metal on bottom)

The xbox started to boot and the video froze, then after a few more attempts I got the three red lights. I immediately linked this to the GPU and re-added the metal washer.

Behold, it actually works now!

The weird thing is when I originally applied thermal paste to only the heatsink, the paste was not making contact with the die, which makes me wonder if the spacing is really what it should be on the GPU, meaning the only thing that is causing it to work is the thermal paste in between the two.

I'll update if anything else happens, im gonna let this sucker run for a bit. The heatsink over the GPU is slightly hotter to touch than the heatsink over the CPU. Is this normal? Also, the fans seem to be just now kicking on louder than normal ... :-\

I'd say the culprit was those damn nylon washers. They were thicker than the metal washers, which would make 4 washers two thick, but 3 not enough.

This post has been edited by visualenkryption: May 30 2007, 04:47 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ConfusedMan on May 30, 2007, 11:10:00 AM

Hi guys!

My 360 died today

with the 3RLOD. i have read all 23 pages and am ready to try to fix it. i need confirmation that the parts i am going to buy tomorrow are okay

Thermal Paste

CPU cleaner

Bolts

Washers

Please reply soon and keep up the brilliant forums!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: l0tics on May 30, 2007, 11:40:00 AM

I think I may have found something out.. I noticed that my newest box runs very hot, a lot of hot air gets moved out of the back and the heatsink is very hot. I opened up my best 360 (which hasn't had the xclamps replaced and has been working great) to compare the heat off of the heatsinks. They were both burning hot! So why is my newest box with the clamp removal blowing more hot air out? Well, I think I know why. The metal bottom of my good box was hot when I pulled it out, and the one that has had the xclamps removed was not hot. I'm thinking that heat travels through even the heatsink mounting and dissipates through the entire metal casing. I tested it twice to confirm this.

This post has been edited by l0tics: May 30 2007, 06:47 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Rogue` on May 30, 2007, 11:45:00 AM

QUOTE(ConfusedMan @ May 30 2007, 06:46 PM)

Hi guys!

My 360 died today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) with the 3RLOD. i have read all 23 pages and am ready to try to fix it. i need confirmation that the parts i am going to buy tomorrow are okay (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

Thermal Paste

CPU cleaner

Bolts

Washers

Please reply soon and keep up the brilliant forums!

Looks ok to me, although i think you've forgot about the spring washers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I am really thinking about doing this, as in buying a faulty one off ebay and using this tut to fix it....especially since my current 360 is banned from Live (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: l0tics on May 30, 2007, 11:49:00 AM

Uh, spring washers aren't needed. The bolts are wrong. Get arctic silver 5 instead.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 30, 2007, 01:47:00 PM

QUOTE(visualenkryption @ May 30 2007, 12:49 PM)

Ok just some notes don;t apply the thermal paste to the heatsink apply the thermal paste to the die becasue if u apply it thermal paste to heatsink u can't tell if the thermal paste is touching the die

second think u should never use ONLY one washer on any of the GPU or CPU if u find that u have to use less taht 2 washer for the die to touch the heatsink then use a SHIM chck RBJ tut about wht SHIM are and how to use them
I am now think that if u proberlty use a SHIM int eh 1st place it would of fixed everythink
U should do other cooling mods wiht he xclamps replacement like 12v mod for the fans at the back and any other one u can think up

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 30, 2007, 03:15:00 PM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 31 2007, 01:37 AM)

wha is the error code that you are gettign when u turn on your xbox360

I get three red lights and no info on the TV asif nothing was plugged into it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: visualenkryption on May 30, 2007, 06:21:00 PM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 30 2007, 03:23 PM)

Ok just some notes don;t apply the thermal paste to the heatsink apply the thermal paste to the die becasue if u apply it thermal paste to heatsink u can't tell if the thermal ...

Thanks again, I'll look into the cooling mods, however, I'm not so sure i have any material to make a shim from, even if i did, I don't believe I have the tools to cut it either :-\ ... any place to buy something like this?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 30, 2007, 09:53:00 PM

QUOTE(Kruesader @ May 30 2007, 06:21 PM)

I get three red lights and no info on the TV asif nothing was plugged into it.

the three red lights is not the error code look at this link and please read through it you will see what i am talking about and how to check wht error code you have
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=484726

QUOTE(visualenkryption @ May 30 2007, 09:27 PM)

i think u can use a peice of foil for the a shim but u will have to put thermal compound each side of the foil but i think u should PM RBJ for more advice ona shim u can use a plyers and a cuttig shears to cut stuff but a shim is not a very hard peice of metal it is lie a peice of foil or a bit ticker

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 31, 2007, 03:52:00 AM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 31 2007, 02:29 PM)

the three red lights is not the error code look at this link and please read through it you will see what i am talking about and how to check wht error code you have

aah ok thanks, my error is 0022

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 31, 2007, 04:45:00 AM

Im guessin that means I have to check out how my GPU and heatsink are joining?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 31, 2007, 08:22:00 AM

QUOTE(Kruesader @ May 31 2007, 06:58 AM)

aah ok thanks, my error is 0022

LOL u get error 0022 are you sure chck it back again to make sure i have an xbox with error 0022 and have never got it working i know alot people who never got error 0022 working only one person i know of got 0022 error working and he had to reflow the solder under the GPU and CPU and RAM and you can can't do tht i can't even do tht

I would like 2 know wht u did to get error xbox working i never got my 0022 error to work

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 31, 2007, 08:30:00 AM

QUOTE(visualenkryption @ May 30 2007, 07:57 PM)

If you have an older heatsink that has fins, RBJTech talks about using a piece of the fin. Has to be perfectly flat & the thickness of the GPU heatsink fins (not thicker).

@wellmodded
Thanks for helping out this thread...been busy with life/work. I appreciate it

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ConfusedMan on May 31, 2007, 10:51:00 AM

Thanks ssoo much lawdowg!! you really are my hero! My 360 is out of warranty and would have cost one hell of a lot if not for you, i owe you one mate!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bojngles on May 31, 2007, 03:10:00 PM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 31 2007, 10:58 AM)

reflowing the board will fix a 0022 error

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Antediluvia on May 31, 2007, 03:36:00 PM

OK, I modded my Xbox 360 according to Lawdawg's method on the 18th (so, almost two weeks ago), and it worked awesome on the first attempt. I've been playing the Halo 3 Beta and other assorted forms of entertainment since then, but yesterday it froze up 30 seconds into Halo 3. I restarted the xbox to make sure it wasn't a game crash, but I ended up discovering I was faced with a broken box again. I was able to play HD movies as long as I wanted, but as soon as I started up a graphics - intensive game it just quit (or that's what it seemed like, so my efforts are focused on the GPU).

I repeated the fix this afternoon (took the whole thing apart, reapplied the Arctic Silver on top of the old, etc) and found that I had actually not used the right number of washers in some places. Thinking that was the problem, I put everything back together... and it froze in 15 seconds on the Dashboard. Hmmm. I've repeated the process several times now to no avail. Right now I do all my testing without putting the casing back on, because its such a pain to keep pulling off - shouldn't affect the 3RLOD should it? I've been reading through some of this topic but I can't seem to find an obvious fix. I've tightened the screws, I've loosened the screws, I've scraped off some AS5, I've super-tightened the screws, I've overheated the chips with the towel trick and just leaving it on without a fan. I'm at my wit's end. I did manage to get a 0102 error, but that's just telling me what I already know.

Any help at all? This isn't a fun week for me right now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

EDIT: To be more precise... I am only getting 3RLOD now, not even freezing, just straight death, and nothing I do seems to change that

This post has been edited by Antediluvia: May 31 2007, 10:39 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kruesader on May 31, 2007, 03:42:00 PM

yep definitely 0022..what can I do to try and fix it?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 31, 2007, 05:48:00 PM

I had two motherboards that were giving me intermittent problems. Did the X clamp removal on both (my tutorial), then attempted RBJTech's method (with my listed parts under his tutorial). I was still getting freezes, even after doing multiple cooling mods. These 2 mobo's were killing me....
Enter Bojngles - he has a professional BGA reflow oven (it does "RIGHT" what the towel trick tries to do). Good service for the boards that just seem too far broke for the X clamp mod alone. Don't get me wrong, the X clamp removal is necessary as evident by all the success stories in this thread - But a professional reflow definitely did the trick on my 2 troublesome boards. If need be, PM him from my sig...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on May 31, 2007, 07:46:00 PM

yes reflowin your will fix the 0022 error but for how long i don't now i remmber some todl me thy reflowed the mbo and the ram and the box only worked for 5min and he had a 0022 error but he might have had more probelms thn just his bga
u could try ad reflow it i have no clue where u have 2 go

QUOTE(Antediluvia @ May 31 2007, 06:42 PM)

I would be a great help if you can tell me what error code you have
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=484726
chk there t see wht error code u have

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pestul on May 31, 2007, 08:23:00 PM

I haven't had any luck with your method lawdawg on my 3RLOD 0110 (Memory failure / overheating). It had died in January and heatgun trick kept it alive until mid May. It pooped out the second time in Texas Hold'em of all games. It would just lockup.. then the second time it didn't make it past the logo screen.. then of course the 3RLOD.

I'm going to put some ramsinks on next, but I was just going to ask if its even worth it to try. You'd think there would be even the slightest graphic on the screen with memory overheating.. or can these things really overheat that quickly that it won't display a thing? Should I fiddle with the new bolt mounts a bit more, because I pretty much just snugged them down after the overheat method and haven't tweaked them since?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on June 01, 2007, 12:26:00 AM

QUOTE(pestul @ May 31 2007, 11:29 PM)

UMM heat gun fix a couple of time that could damaged your board did u chck back the error code to see if was a 0110 after u did al tht heatgun fix

if sitlla heatgun fix u could try the Xclamps replacement if lawdawg method do't work u can try RBJ or you can read through thos post
http://forums.xbox-s...t...33&t=604529
don't do the method that i was tlaking about do the other one with the shaft and where u use the orginal bolt for the heatsink
it all run on the same principle theory

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Antediluvia on June 01, 2007, 04:38:00 AM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ May 31 2007, 10:22 PM)

I would be a great help if you can tell me what error code you have

Sure, I'm constantly getting a secondary code of 0102. I get the 3RLOD before it has a chance to turn on, so no primary code (yet, anyway).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pestul on June 01, 2007, 05:30:00 AM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ Jun 1 2007, 03:32 AM)

UMM heat gun fix a couple of time that could damaged your board did u chck back the error code to see if was a 0110 after u did al tht heatgun fix

if sitlla heatgun fix u could try the Xclamps replacement if lawdawg method do't work u can try RBJ or you can read through thos post
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?act...33&t=604529
don't do the method that i was tlaking about do the other one with the shaft and where u use the orginal bolt for the heatsink
it all run on the same principle theory

Yeah, I already applied Lawdawg's technique. It's still 0110.. I'm just wondering if RAM heat can be enough initially with the case open to not even let the system start up (blank screen). I think I might do another reheat (Lawdawgs) perhaps put some pressure on the exposed ram chips (as someone else mentioned), then put some ramsinks on. That said, I might consider a solution for the ram under the gpu heatsink too.. but I really don't want to spend any more money getting this working. I have sinks to use already.

This post has been edited by pestul: Jun 1 2007, 12:31 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bunchow on June 01, 2007, 08:45:00 AM

Lawdawg, tried ur x-clamp replacement last night and everything is working fine now. I wasn't getting the 3RLOD yet but it was freezing withing minutes of starting it up.

I got a question though. I tried to follow your tutorial right down to the last word and I noticed that the heatsinks are no longer attached directly to the case like they were with the x-clamps.

Is this correct or did I miss a step?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 01, 2007, 08:05:00 PM

QUOTE(bunchow @ Jun 1 2007, 10:21 AM)

You are correct, but by removing the X clamps - you take out the flexing of the motherboard when it gets hot. If you want (& I recommend) RBJTech's method is much more secure. It secures everything back to the case, but it calls for minor modification (non-reversible). I listed parts on his tutorial that if used, you don't have to drill out the heatsinks. You will however have to cut some areas of the heatsink fins in order to get washers & a lock nut on. Your choice....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Antediluvia on June 01, 2007, 08:27:00 PM

I'm still getting a 0102 error... nothing else, no matter how tightly or loosely I screw down the heatsinks (unless its so loose I get an instant overheat) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

There are white sticky pads on my underside RAM chips, as a side note... are those supposed to be there?

I'm almost completely out of ideas (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on June 02, 2007, 12:19:00 PM

try pushing gpu heatsink down with your hand (it worked for me, really)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Antediluvia on June 02, 2007, 05:51:00 PM

QUOTE(kidman64 @ Jun 2 2007, 02:55 PM)

try pushing gpu heatsink down with your hand (it worked for me, really)

I pressed it down rather forcefully with my hand as I let the console run (with fan, but it still got really hot). Unless I did it wrong or not long enough, its still 3RLOD... I did some searching and saw where you mentioned loosening the two screws on the left of the GPU - no luck with that either.

What is odd is that the fans now run for 3 seconds after I power off the xbox. My console is sooo wacked out

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: tehtriggerman on June 02, 2007, 11:16:00 PM

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I did stray from one thing..I used GOOGONE to remove the excess thermal sludge and it worked so well I only used 3 Qtips for the entire chipset and it went to a mirro finish INSTANTLY. I then clean it up with alcohol.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Albut35 on June 03, 2007, 03:52:00 PM

Quick question.. will 5mm Zinc Flat Washers work correct? Sorry if this is a stupid question, just wanna make sure before I do something wrong, lol

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lena0013 on June 03, 2007, 09:20:00 PM

Thank you again for saving me time and some serious money!!!! Much appreciated!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: slamdunkfunkk on June 05, 2007, 02:00:00 AM

Second those thanks!

Fixed two RLOD consoles now - one with RBJ's method and one with this. This one is definitely easier too.

Awesome, cheers

Slam

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Albut35 on June 05, 2007, 06:03:00 PM

QUOTE(CounterBlow @ Jun 5 2007, 07:45 PM)

Hello all.

I've just got a question about Lawdawg's method. I've been following the tutorial, and I've managed to get the case off and the motherboard removed from the casing. However, here lies the problem. I can not for the life of me get the damn X-Clamps off. I'm trying to use a very small pair of pliers I have, but I need to push down on the motherboard to pull the pliers up, and when I do this I feel like I'm gonna break the board, so I have to stop. I've tried using a small flat edge screw driver as a lever to get it off, but it scratches the inner part of where the X-Clamp is, and I don't want to scratch it. Is there any easier method to remove it?

Also, I'm following the .pdf tutorial (Here) and it says I need Artic Thermal Compound, but it doesn't show where/how to use it in the tutorial. It just says that I need it under the parts list, but then doesn't mention it anymore. Does that mean I do or don't need it?

It shows you where to use the Thermal Compound on the diagram(picture) of how to put the new 'clamp' together. Put it inbetween the CPU/GPU and the heatsinks. As for getting the X-Clamps off, just use a pair of needle nose pliers and try to pop the edges off, that's what I did and it worked with no problem. Hope that helps!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: =ThEfLy= on June 06, 2007, 02:50:00 AM

Hi Lawdawg0931, i have just fix the 3rlod with your method, thank you so much for posting the tutorial!! many greetings from china

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mavranos on June 06, 2007, 07:17:00 AM

Awesome! I now have a Zombox. Thanks for the tutorial- especially the stock #s for the bolts and washers.
Did the fix last night and played for several hours with no trouble at all. Somebody needs to make a 360 Zombie faceplate or wrap for all the 360 that haave returned from the grave using Lawdawg0931's method.

Thanks again!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CounterBlow on June 06, 2007, 01:13:00 PM

QUOTE(dR03 @ Jun 5 2007, 11:13 PM)

I used a small screwdriver and pried the xclamp away from the post and popped off the opposite side. I did this to two on the same side and then wiggled the other two off.

Worked great and very easy. Don't worry about scratching anything, the tool only touches the copper plate that the screws used to hold the heatsink hide.

Oh, so the copper part underneath where the X-Clamp meets the screws can be scratched with no problem? Thanks, that should be a lot easier. I thought about doing that, and it did slightly scratch the copper surface, but I wasn't sure if it would hurt the mobo at all by doing so.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CounterBlow on June 06, 2007, 05:32:00 PM

Sorry for the double post, but I had one more question. In Lawdawgs tutorial he says we should use alcohol, but does the % matter? I plan on using a basic 70% alcohol to clean it, but does it need to be any higher?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 06, 2007, 09:02:00 PM

Wow, so many posts with success stories...awesome to hear from all of you (& you're welcome).

As far as getting the clamps themselves off, I also used small needle nose pliers to pry the first two. Then you can just wiggle the others off.

Alcohol will work fine, just not to much. Dampen a q-tip or similar & clean. They make a cleaner you can buy from Arctic Silver, but I've never used it.

Makes me feel good to hear I've given back to a community that's helped me plenty...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: LdcMoB on June 06, 2007, 09:29:00 PM

Just pulled out my broken 360 that has been sitting in my closet for months after reading this topic. Got all the parts from Lowes and Radio Shack today, 2hrs. later it works perfect again. Just in time too cause my newer refurbished xbox 360 from game stop is starting to freeze up every few minuets. Gonna do the same to it tomorrow. Can't thank you enough for the guide. Saved me another few hundred bucks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: asrule on June 07, 2007, 05:18:00 PM

Has anybody had any succes with error 0103 with this or any other fixes. I have tried the x clamp replacement (which I have had succes on two systems with 0102), I also tried the heat gun trick and the towel trick. No love so far, I'm at my wits end with this unit. Any other ideas?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dR03 on June 08, 2007, 12:23:00 PM

Lawdawg,

Using your method is it true that the screws used are supposed to sit against the bottom metal case? I'm asking because with as tight as I have them, it seems that once you screw in the other mobo secure screws that it would cause further flexing because the screws on the bottom of the mobo are not flush and actually push against the metal casing.

Just wondering.

Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SSinisterSS on June 08, 2007, 05:53:00 PM

0020 Code

Xbox fired right up! I did not over heat the system since I read it may not be needed, which it wasnt. Box had been on so far for over an hour working great.

To the above poster, regarding the bolt heads hitting the metal case, you can enlarge those holes that the old small screws went into attaching the the X bracket. I bored them out so there was no pressure on the metal case.

I'll update if anything goes wrong if it does.

Thanks for the tutorial Lawdawg, worked great!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on June 08, 2007, 08:20:00 PM

I fixed my 360 with this method last week but then it is getting Freeze again with big sound this 2 days. What can I do ??

oh man! I got 3 rlod again @_@;

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: OniShiro on June 09, 2007, 06:59:00 AM

Is it safe to run the console vertical after doing the fix? or are there more chances of the board flexing again being on vertical?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SSinisterSS on June 09, 2007, 08:40:00 AM

I run mine verticle. To me, with this added security it shouldnt matter. My box ran 12 hours straight last night. I downloaded content, played arcade and 360 games, some H3 beta, not one hiccup. Im off to the vid store to get me something new to play! Its been a while!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: d3viou5 on June 09, 2007, 05:07:00 PM

I just registered so I could post my results to this thread. I just tried this method and I'm happy to say my XBox is back in business! It's only been running for about 10 minutes so we'll see how this plays out in the long run. Thanks to Lawdawg0931 and everyone else that contributed to this fix. I can stop swearing at my XBox and actually start playing it again!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 09, 2007, 08:34:00 PM

QUOTE(ahtze @ Jun 8 2007, 09:56 PM)

I fixed my 360 with this method last week but then it is getting Freeze again with big sound this 2 days. What can I do ??

oh man! I got 3 rlod again @_@;

Freezing usually indicates the GPU side isn't cooling as necessary. Look into some of RBJTech's cooling mods. Also, you can ensure that the heatsink is sitting well on the die by looking at the imprint it made into the AS5. Adjust the number of washers on the GPU side can sometimes help out also, just make sure the heatsink is on the die...not the washers.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on June 10, 2007, 03:15:00 AM

After i did the x clamp replacement my system ran for 1 month without a single issue.

Today is started freezing as soon as i boot a game.. usually 2 to 5 min into the game.

I re adjust the screws but still.. same issues.. this time it last a bit longer... 10 min.

Any idea? i´m afraid to take 1 washer out, because i´m already using 2.
The screws are really tight btw.

I may try RBJ method.. but i don´t want to mess with the HS

BTW, no red lights.. just freezing.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: danhrules on June 10, 2007, 07:54:00 AM

My 360 has recently been giving me the 3 red lights again, after doing this mod about a month ago.

I replaced the thermal paste again (when I took the heatsinks off, they were practically stuck to the chip from the paste), put everything back, but it froze a couple of minutes into the game and gave me the 3 red lights

So far I'm laying out the parts as below:
Screw - Washer - Motherboard - Washer - Washer - Heatsink

I'm going to try just using one washer on each side of the MB, but if that doesn't work, I don't know what else to try.

PS. I've been using the Talismoon Whipser fans.

The parts I used from B&Q (UK):
5mm Flat Washers (Code AVF-064968)
Pan Head 5mm Screws: 0.8mm x 10mm (Code AVF-069918)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: OniShiro on June 10, 2007, 10:22:00 AM

to booker and danhrules:

How have you been running your systems after the fix? vertical or horizontal?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ahtze on June 10, 2007, 11:30:00 AM

Vertical is bad for dvd drive

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on June 10, 2007, 01:07:00 PM

QUOTE(danhrules @ Jun 10 2007, 03:30 PM)

So far I'm laying out the parts as below:
Screw - Washer - Motherboard - Washer - Washer - Heatsink
I'm going to try just using one washer on each side of the MB, but if that doesn't work, I don't know what else to try.
PS. I've been using the Talismoon Whipser fans.

The parts I used from B&Q (UK):
5mm Flat Washers (Code AVF-064968)
Pan Head 5mm Screws: 0.8mm x 10mm (Code AVF-069918)

Horizontal Never used the system on vertical position.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 10, 2007, 07:56:00 PM

For freezing, see post 383 above. RBJTech's cooling mods really do make a difference. I've done the fan shroud mod on both of mine, and the 12 volt fan under the case on another. Copper heatsinks on southbridge & Ram chips....it all helps.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on June 11, 2007, 12:46:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jun 11 2007, 03:32 AM)

thanks i´ll take a look at those post. But still i don´t get it why i was able to play for 1 month without having this issue.

Today after getting a freeze, i decided to re do the whole thing.. basically i re apply AS5 thermal paste and retight the screws.

So far so good.

I think this mod will require to do some maintenance once in a while.

Maye i used too little amount of AS5.. because when i took out the HS i was able too see most of the DIE surface. Maybe with the time the AS5 get away... and this is the reason why the System froze. It had too little Thermal paste.

There are any solution to this? to avoid the Thermal paste go away?

I don´t mind re applying very now and then, but it would be so cool to be able to have a permanent fix without having to do this maintenance .

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: AvoidLloyd on June 11, 2007, 06:58:00 AM

I posted in another thread, but I figured I'd post here too. Thanks Lawdawg! You helped a modding newb fix his own RLOD! I couldn't be happier! You kick ass!

I had green lights as soon as I turned it on, never had a need to "heat up" the box. Thanks again!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SSinisterSS on June 11, 2007, 08:59:00 AM

Posting an update.

Using Lawdawgs method of xclamp replacement on Friday I since have ENJOYED about 40 hours of gameplay on the once dead box. No freezes, nothing at all, no problems.

Great tutorial, great results thus far, and I have been pressing this thing pretty hard. Its stays on all day, with the wife and kids jumping in and gaming at hours length as well.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Deeked on June 11, 2007, 12:06:00 PM

As I stand right now, based on Lawdawg0931's X-Clamp Replacement tutorial, I did all but use the metal #10 metal washers on the bottom side of the board only the nylon, because that put an upwards pressure on the main board.

I put the main board back in the case to overheat for two minutes and noticed that upon power up, the 3RLOD were gone. This was probably due to the fact that the pressure on the board that pulled the solder joints loose had been relieved. Any way, I proceeded to heat the board up for the two minutes as recommended in the tut.

At the moment I'm waiting for everything to cool down so I can reassemble my 360 and test it out.

Will post back with the results.

A special thanks to sonicboom, LAWDAWG0931, Aweirdguy, Anand Lal Shimpi, Kristopher Kubicki, Tuan Nguyen & Dokworm.

Cheers

3RLOD are gone. Fan speed is normal. Will put my box to a 4 or more hour test a bit later in the day, after I take my 6 year old to play his soccer game.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CounterBlow on June 11, 2007, 05:14:00 PM

QUOTE(MaX PL @ Jun 11 2007, 07:49 PM)

how the heck do you pull out the "screw things" that were holding the x clamps on? i'm trying to pull out the old screw things so i can replace them with the new screws as done in JDawgs method, but i cant seem to get those screws out.

No, no, no. Your not trying to remove the screws holding the X Clamps on, your trying to remove the X-Clamps themselves.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaX PL on June 11, 2007, 05:18:00 PM

well yeh i did that already, but i'm reading this tutorial by relix which is pretty much the same as jdawgs and he says to remove the "screw things" that were on the x clamps.

i'm not supposed to remove those?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaX PL on June 11, 2007, 06:11:00 PM

this is how our cleaning and reapplication of thermal paste turned out. the cpu mess you see around the edges is the old thermal paste that was too difficult to remove. didnt bother getting goo gone to remove the small amount, we just cleaned as much as we could with alcohol for 2 hours.

IPB Image

now as for these heatsinks, we're supposed to take the M5 screws go through the motherboard and screw them into these ends shown here in the pic?

IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CounterBlow on June 11, 2007, 06:18:00 PM

QUOTE(MaX PL @ Jun 11 2007, 08:47 PM)

this is how my cleaning and reapplication of thermal paste turned out. the cpu mess you see around the edges is the old thermal paste that was too difficult to remove. didnt bother getting goo gone to remove the small amount, i just cleaned as much as i could with alcohol for 2 hours.

http://i16.photobuck...pl/DSC02549.jpg

now as for these heatsinks, i'm supposed to take the M5 screws go through the motherboard and screw them into these ends shown here in the pic?

http://i16.photobuck...pl/DSC02551.jpg

My mistake, I thought you hadn't removed the X-Clamps yet.

Do you mean these screws?:
IPB Image

If so, then yes you have to remove those. And yes you need to screw the M5 screws through the motherboard into the ends of the heatsinks (The parts I circled above, of course with the current screws removed)

Also, I'm no expert on AS5, but you may be using a bit too much. I just used a credit card to smooth it over the chip.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaX PL on June 11, 2007, 06:28:00 PM

wait a minute, so we remove those things you circled? how the hell do we do that because we've been trying and its impossible. does it pull out or am i suppsed to use a wrench and get the nut off?

if this is the case maybe we have the rights screws(10/24 x 1/2) afterall.

also, yeh the thermal paste looks like alot but its not that much. i read too much will never hurt anyway.

so how do we remove those circled screws?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CounterBlow on June 11, 2007, 06:58:00 PM

QUOTE(MaX PL @ Jun 11 2007, 09:04 PM)

Yup, you are supposed to remove the ones I circled. What I did was unscrew the nut on it with needle nose pliers. Just get a good grip on the nuts (lol) and turn and they should come off. And once the nuts are off, the screws should easily come right off.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaX PL on June 11, 2007, 07:11:00 PM

wow are you sure this is possible?

i just tried with those red plyers you see in the picture and its just impossible to move them at all.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 11, 2007, 09:07:00 PM

QUOTE(MaX PL @ Jun 11 2007, 08:47 PM)

wow are you sure this is possible?

i just tried with those red plyers you see in the picture and its just impossible to move them at all.

Those nut/screws circled are one piece together....& yes they come out. Use a deep socket or open end wrench that fits. It will (& needs to) come off. The threaded holes those come out of is where the M5 bolts go into. Don't be scared....jerk them suckers (well....unscrew) out of there!

P.S. Who the heck is this JDawg

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kyle90316 on June 11, 2007, 09:32:00 PM

QUOTE

When this happens, it will change to only 2 lights (both left side lights). I waited 2 minutes exactly, then shut it off.

2 minutes after it overheated and went to 2 lights, or 2 minutes from when you turned it on?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 12, 2007, 12:00:00 AM

QUOTE(kyle90316 @ Jun 11 2007, 11:08 PM)

2 minutes after it overheated and went to 2 lights, or 2 minutes from when you turned it on?

First off, only overheat it if the 3 red lights are still there after the X clamp removal. If you do need to overheat it, it took me about 3-5 minutes without the fans to begin overheating (2 lights). Once the 2 lights indicated overheating was actively happening - I waited two minutes - then turn it off.

@Max PL
I knew you could do it.....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Trunkzgamer on June 12, 2007, 11:44:00 AM

Hey lawdawg...Thanks for the tutorial. I did exactly everything that was said in the tutorial..i just have 1 problem now..i don't get the 3 lights anymore..i now get the 2 lights...whats going on?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kyle90316 on June 12, 2007, 11:46:00 AM

QUOTE(kyle90316 @ Jun 12 2007, 06:20 PM)

im at the part where i have the dvd drive set out and im testing it to see if i get the 3 red lights, and i hit the power button, and it just goes green for like a second than turns off? what i do wrong?

edit: yes the video coards are plugged in i unplugged them and its the same exact thing that happens when they are unplugged.

well i figured out i had the power to the dvd upside down, okay now everything boots up goes to dashboard can move around, except dvd drive wont open? any help =[?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pez_555 on June 12, 2007, 11:46:00 AM

i need some help,

can anyone point to the exact things i need, but from the UK? for example do people have any links to the exact pieces as outlined by lawdawg in his tutorial from a UK retailer such as b&q or any other hardware store?

thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kyle90316 on June 12, 2007, 11:47:00 AM

QUOTE(pez_555 @ Jun 12 2007, 07:22 PM)

im sure if you go into a hardware store with the info they will know excatly what you need, i went into a locally owned hardware store, and gave them the list and they had exactly what i needed.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pez_555 on June 12, 2007, 11:50:00 AM

QUOTE(kyle90316 @ Jun 12 2007, 07:23 PM)

im sure if you go into a hardware store with the info they will know excatly what you need, i went into a locally owned hardware store, and gave them the list and they had exactly what i needed.

cool thanks, i just wasn't sure whether it is called something different over here in the UK thats all. so if i just go into a store with the list of 4 things lawdawg had pointed out i should be ok?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kyle90316 on June 12, 2007, 11:53:00 AM

QUOTE(pez_555 @ Jun 12 2007, 07:26 PM)

cool thanks, i just wasn't sure whether it is called something different over here in the UK thats all. so if i just go into a store with the list of 4 things lawdawg had pointed out i should be ok?

i was over in the metric section at my hardware store, and doesnt the Uk use metric :-p it would be nice and easy than...

the arctic silver thermal compound wont be at a hardware store,

it is available here

United Kingdom - Authorized Resellers
Aria Technology Ltd. Email
The BooKYard Email
Chillblast.com Email
CoolestPC UK Ltd. Email
Kool 'n Quiet Email
Kustom PCs (Scotland) Email
Overclock Ltd. Email
Overclockers UK Email
Over-Clock UK Ltd. Email
Quiet PC Email
Shiny Hardware LTD Email
The Cooling Shop Email

http://www.arcticsil...istributors.htm

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kyle90316 on June 12, 2007, 12:22:00 PM

heres a good tip on getting those weird bolt/nut things off the heatsinks, a 1/4 inch wrench doesnt exactly fit but it works getting them off!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pez_555 on June 12, 2007, 01:26:00 PM

QUOTE(kyle90316 @ Jun 12 2007, 07:29 PM)

i was over in the metric section at my hardware store, and doesnt the Uk use metric :-p it would be nice and easy than...
the arctic silver thermal compound wont be at a hardware store,

it is available here

United Kingdom - Authorized Resellers
Aria Technology Ltd. Email
The BooKYard Email
Chillblast.com Email
CoolestPC UK Ltd. Email
Kool 'n Quiet Email
Kustom PCs (Scotland) Email
Overclock Ltd. Email
Overclockers UK Email
Over-Clock UK Ltd. Email
Quiet PC Email
Shiny Hardware LTD Email
The Cooling Shop Email
http://www.arcticsil...istributors.htm

thanks man great help. i shall be trying this in the next couple of days.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mavranos on June 12, 2007, 02:10:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jun 12 2007, 02:36 AM)

... - I waited two minutes - then turn it off.

Mine took a bit longer to overheat- 5 mins or so. Don't freak out if it takes a little longer. Probably just means you got really good contact with the heatsink.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ryfoa6 on June 12, 2007, 03:19:00 PM

do i put AS5 on the GDDR3 RAM Chip? i heard the gpu doesnt touch the GDDR3 RAM Chip.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on June 12, 2007, 03:34:00 PM

QUOTE(ryfoa6 @ Jun 12 2007, 10:55 PM)

do i put AS5 on the GDDR3 RAM Chip? i heard the gpu doesnt touch the GDDR3 RAM Chip.

No, there is no point, since the HS don´t touch the RAM.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bondago on June 12, 2007, 07:21:00 PM

Got a weird problem. Hope I'm not posting something that's already been answered in this thread; I've scanned through the entire thread and haven't seen anything similar.

I replaced the X-clamps using Lawdawg0931's Method. Got rid of the old thermal paste and applied new AS5 and all that stuff. Turned on my Xbox and got video for the first time in a month and played for an hour or two then turned it off. When I turned it on again, all I got was a black screen with white wavy lines running across it. I turned it off and tried it the next day and I got video like everything was fine, but after I turned it off and turned it back on later the day, the black screen with white lines came back up.

I've tried tightening the screws for the GPU heatsink, I've also tried cleaning off the AS5 and applying a new layer, but nothing seems to work.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CamaroGuy on June 13, 2007, 03:41:00 AM

took 5 minutes to overheat, then let it sit for 5 tightened the screws down nice and tight. Local Lowes was sold out of the the damn screws so I used home depot part number 030699801282 and the only issue I had was the mobo didn't wanna sit right at first but once screwed in it was fine. Been up and running for about and hour and half now, no issues and damn this thing is faster than ever with everything browsing the marketplace, downloading, loading games fantastic Thanks alot for the tut man!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 13, 2007, 05:57:00 PM

@CamaroGuy
Glad to hear it, should also consider the cooling mods: http://rbjtech.bulld...om/xboxhome.htm

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: CamaroGuy on June 14, 2007, 02:24:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jun 14 2007, 01:33 AM)

@CamaroGuy
Glad to hear it, should also consider the cooling mods: http://rbjtech.bulld...om/xboxhome.htm

so far so good, ran it for a little over 12 hours straight and not a hiccup, downloaded demos off the marketplace and just let it idle and let the paste cure a bit. gonna aply it today for several hours and see how it goes, but so far so good not a single issue. So if anyhting else happens I will prolly do some extra cooling mods but I will not put the inter cooler back on even though i'm pretty sure it's the only thing that saved my system for so long lol

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: phixion on June 14, 2007, 06:16:00 AM

I did the x-clamp replacement because my 360 was suffering from not having any video (I had audio but no video and no 3ROLD). After following this tutorial, I turned on my 360 and it was working perfectly. I also did a couple of RBJTech's cooling mods such as removing the metal cage behind the fans and the fan shroud mod (I think I used cardboard too thick to cover the GPU...?)

It worked well for a few hours of play over a weeks time although it froze on COD3. Yesterday when I was play GOW, it would freeze every few seconds and the video started to distort like it did before my video went out the last time.

What do you guys think I should try/do? Add more cooling? Try and adjust the screws under the heatsinks? Remove the cardboard over the GPU?

Any help is appreciated.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: d4g on June 14, 2007, 04:45:00 PM

Great Thanx To Lawddawg0931's for a great Tut

Anyways i have an Xbox which was new, and did this tutorial, also i am getting one 3rlod one shortly....

I did Purchase the Australian Parts from bunnings as one other australaian poster said... for me it gave me the 3rlod with the 3 washers under 2 washer above....... also the screws were not right..... So i went shopping again.... this is what i bought and it worked great...... For any other aussies have a look...

From Company called coventry Fasteners.. bought

100 SS Machine screws M5 .8 x 12mm CS head you wont need 1 hundred but i have a few xbox's to do...
200 Fibre Washers 5mm
200 5mm zinc plated washers silver colour

All cost me $38.00

bunnigns prices are way to expensive..
If you can find a substitute place other than bunnings i would advise to get the stuff i got... as its way easier to do...

i did 5mm washer , fiberwasher under board and the fibre washer and 5mm washer above board screwed it all in tight not over tight but tight and i did not get the 3rlod as i did with the bunnings parts....

I Played last night for 3 hours perfecto....

So if it helps anyone good im glad to shed some light on these parts.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: flak4 on June 14, 2007, 07:15:00 PM

Strange things happening to my box after doing this mod.

Followed the steps 100% perfectly

In the first test, the console would boot into the dashboard and freeze soon after. The fans would start normally on boot, then suddenly gain speed until it maxed out and the console freezes.

It was obviously a heat problem, so i removed the heatsinks, cleaned, re-applied the arctic silver and re-seated the heatsinks.

Test #2, it got worse - the console 2-red-lighted on me almost instantly after i pressed the on button.

The fans, as usual, started at normal speed, then instantaneously went to maximum speed as the console showed the 2 red lights. All of this took place between 3-4 seconds, from the time i hit the power button to the time the console showed the 2 red lights. The fans were going crazy.

The heatsinks are in contact with the chips, with a very thin, very smooth layer of arctic silver in between.

Here are some facts,

Parts used:
M5 0.80 x 12mm Hex Bolts (8)
#10 Nylon Washers (16)
5mm Metal Washers (16)
3.5g Syringe of Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Grease

Steps taken:

- Made sure nylon washers were on both sides of the mother board (per hole), followed by the metal washer.
- Used rubbing alcohol to clean the chips, the CPU and two GPU chips were completely clean, as well as both heatsinks. Yes, mirror-finish clean.
- Used a thin layer of thermal grease on the chips, seated the heatsink and immediately tightened the bolts. Made sure both heatsinks were firmly seated, they are NOT moving at all. I tightened the bolts by hand (as much as i could, so they were snug), not by tool.

EDIT One more fact I forgot to add:
- All tests were done with just the motherboard, metal casing, power button circuitry (with lighting plastic piece), DVD drive plugged in, and fans connected as well as all other required on-board connections. Power supply, and component HD cable connected. I did NOT put the console completely back together for testing.

Any ideas on what I could try?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: illmatik on June 15, 2007, 03:14:00 PM

One more success story to add to the collection! The other day my 360 stopped displaying video to the TV, however I was still getting audio. Note, I never got the 3 red lights. Went to Home Depot and picked up the parts, however they didn't have enough washers so I had to dig up 4 similar sized ones from my toolbox. The sizes were close enough apparently as I've been playing my 360 all night and all day without any problems. I did have one freeze at the dashboard after about 5 minutes of first trying it out, but I've been playing games for over 8 hours now with no freezes or problems.

Note: I wasn't able to acquire any Arctic Silver, but so far so good.

Time to get to work on my other 3ROL box. Thank you thank you!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 15, 2007, 11:37:00 PM

QUOTE(illmatik @ Jun 15 2007, 04:50 PM)

Note: I wasn't able to acquire any Arctic Silver, but so far so good.

Need to definitely get some AS5, I would be very surprised if it didn't act up again real soon. Apply AS5 and do some cooling mods, it will help in the long run.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Warrior904 on June 16, 2007, 01:41:00 PM

Wooot! I fixed this today using this method. It was A LOT easier then I thought. For people having a hard time finding parts for this fix, check out this auction, I bought it and it includes all the parts you need, http://cgi.ebay.com/...I...p;rd=1&rd=1

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on June 16, 2007, 04:43:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jun 16 2007, 07:13 AM)

Need to definitely get some AS5, I would be very surprised if it didn't act up again real soon. Apply AS5 and do some cooling mods, it will help in the long run.

Lawdawg,
your systems are still running without a problem?
I found that after a few weeks (1month exactly) my system started freezing again. When i opend it, i saw the screws weren´t as tight as i left it. I guess this is the reason, the screws get loose after a while so the contact with the die and the hs is not enough and the game freeze.

I´m wondering if you experience this as well or what did you do to make sure the screws don´t get loose after a while.

I don´t mean loose as loose.. just a bit loose, but enough to make the system freeze.

you get the idea.

i was thinking of using some "stick product, like or something" to make sure the screws don´t move after a intense use.

What do you think?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 16, 2007, 06:15:00 PM

I personally have re-done mine using RBJTech's method. I have recommended it as an alternative to this, but still keep this thread active as well for two reasons: 1. It is reversible & fairly easy 2. Many many people continue to have success with this fix.
RBJTech's is much more secure than mine, but some people are afraid to cut pieces out of the heatsink & drill out the heatsinks. There are parts listed under RBJTech's tutorial that I sent him & those parts listed do not require you to drill out the heatsinks. The bolts fit through (barely), so other than the cut fins of the heatsink - it is reversible as well. I've also sent a couple of boards off to Bojngles for BGA reflow service (good for problem boards).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bojngles on June 16, 2007, 10:02:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jun 16 2007, 08:51 PM)

do you have a list of those parts?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 17, 2007, 01:15:00 AM

QUOTE(bojngles @ Jun 16 2007, 11:38 PM)

do you have a list of those parts?

The U.S. parts listed in the tutorial are the ones I'm talking about.
Under the parts list, it says courtesy of lawdawg0931.
http://rbjtech.bulld..._com/XClamp.htm

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on June 18, 2007, 12:04:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jun 17 2007, 01:51 AM)

Lawdaug.
Personally i chose your method because it was reversible. but now i´m experience some issues.
Freezing...

The first time it last for 5 days.. after that it last for 1 month. And now i´m back to 1 week period. Every time it freeze the only ting i do is re apply AS5 and re build the whole thing.
As you can see i´m not doing nothing extrordinary but i don´t understand why this is happening.
I don´t get any 3rl.. just freezing.. at first it was only on the first 10 min of gameplay. If i past those 10 min.

So my question is... what i should do? should i try rbj method instead? since the concept is the same i don´t think it will fix my issues but maybe i´m wrong.

Did you have any freezing experience with your method and this is why you went RBJ way ?

thanks and i appreciate your help

cheers.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: stewii griffin on June 18, 2007, 12:40:00 PM

http://www.sarcastic...ng-of-fire.html

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: M3_DeL on June 18, 2007, 02:43:00 PM

Worked here for a buddies Xbox. 3 days strong. Will keep you posted.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: elocin671 on June 18, 2007, 03:03:00 PM

ive read several post, talking about the screws getting loose over time. do you think something like locktite would solve this issue?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 20, 2007, 10:40:00 PM

Sorry for not responding for a couple days....real life.

@Booker
Sent you PM

@elocin671
Instead of lock-tite, I would replace the washers with spring (or lock) washers. As long as they are the same thickness.

@K-Flex & M3_DeL
Glad to hear it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: tikyle on June 21, 2007, 07:38:00 AM

lawdawg or whoever,

In the tutorial do you run the bolts through the metal case or do you start through the motherboard? Because the picture you show doesn't state that the bolts go through the metal casing. If so how is the board secured to the metal case?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 21, 2007, 10:03:00 AM

QUOTE(tikyle @ Jun 21 2007, 09:14 AM)

No, the bolts don't go through the metal case. The mobo is held in place by all the peripherial bolts...USB, video, power plug..etc. The bolt heads (using mine listed) rest up against the case - not changing the height that the cases stand-offs have.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DfeetU on June 21, 2007, 01:57:00 PM

about 2 weeks ago I got the 3ROL problem, My error codes indicated a 0102 failure. I did some research and found this site and this thread. I decided to use the LawDawg0931 fix simply because it looked easier. I followed all of the instructions and my system has been working like new for the past 5 days. Hope this fix works for awhile since my system is out of warranty and I have previously modified my case. Anyways, thanks Lawdog appreciate the info.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: M3_DeL on June 21, 2007, 02:59:00 PM

QUOTE(Raynor23 @ Jun 21 2007, 09:35 AM)

I did this yesterday and it worked great. I overheated it, went from 3 RLOD to 2RLOD. Replaced everything, closed up, went and plugged it in and it worked. I played it for about 2 hours last night just to make sure.

Now the only problem I ran into is that my fans are spinning extremely fast and the system is much louder than before (just fan noise). Any reason for this? I did leave the same fans in the case, and it's blowing out ice cold air, the system hasn't gotten hot at all even during the 2 hours of play.

Also, my power button and Disc Tray button don't work on the main case, what the hell did I do? The power button won't move at all, and the DVD eject button clicks but doesn't in fact do anything.

Thanks for the help.

Sounds like you have shorted something. This mod would not affect the dvd and power buttons. In regards to the fans spinning up, that usually happens when things are getting a little warmer then they would like. Did you use too much AS5? not enough? tighten them down enough? I would crack her back open and make sure you didn't misplace a washer, or misconnect a cable or two. Are MB screws (non heatsink) tight? did you scrap a trace and break it? lots of little things to look for. Give it a good once over. You can test the eject button and power button while it is all apart.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Antediluvia on June 22, 2007, 02:36:00 PM

QUOTE(Raynor23 @ Jun 22 2007, 04:00 PM)

Well the thing with the power button is it doesn't move at all. It's like stuck basically, I can touch it but it doesn't move. If that makes sense. The DVD button does work -- do you have to place the green thing into one of the slots below it to make it eject and close properly?

The DVD's "green thing" needs to be positioned into the slot below, so it clicks the black button. Did you check to make sure the white Ring of Light faceplate wasn't snapped on upside-down? I've made that mistake before. There's a little arrow on an edge of it, if you look carefully.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 22, 2007, 09:16:00 PM

QUOTE(Antediluvia @ Jun 22 2007, 04:12 PM)

Exactly what I was thinking when I read this, as I too have put it in upside down before...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on June 23, 2007, 01:58:00 AM

oh man this sucks... the first time i did the x clamp it last for 3 days. but i didn´t do it properly. So the next time i did the whole thing. This time it last for an entire month.
After that, i started getting freezing.. so i re do the whole thing and it worked.

But it start faling again.. i though ok, every 1 per month is not big deal.. i can do this... (re apply AS5 and stuff every once in a while) but now.. it is a pain... it don´t pass the week.

I don´t get the 3rl though.. and this only happen in game.. dash works perfectly, even movie playing.

I can´t reflow the motherboard because in my country there are none profesionals.. (most of them do more harm than good).

ANy ideas why it work for a few days and then, freezing ? the AS5 get burn ? don´t get it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Gerjan on June 23, 2007, 07:53:00 AM

Great stuff. Bought the parts here in The Netherlands. But couldn't find nylon washers, but I did have some carton ones wich came with my Zalman VGA and CPU coolers... I decided to give it a try it is is working fine now, running for a few hours now, instead of not being able to boot at all!

Not sure what the long term effect of these carton washers will be. But I think it will be fine.

So now I did after some testing for the GPU: 12mm bolt ->2 metal washers ->1 carton washer -> motherboard ->carton washer ->metal washer ->headsink

CPU: bolt ->1 metal washer ->1 carton washer -> motherboard ->carton washer ->metal washer ->carton washer -> headsink

Oh and Arctic Silver 5 ofcourse.

Thx for the tutorials and stuff!

No more 3lod:

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: tsf13 on June 23, 2007, 12:13:00 PM

Thanks a lot for the great tutorial but I have yet to have any luck with it

For the past month my xbox started locking up more and more frequently, until one day I put in GOW it locked up on the "start" screen. I reset my xbox to see a distorted xbox intro and another lock up. One more reset and 3RLOD error 0102.

I tried the fix with the lowes parts (cpu and gpu) and MX-1 thermal compound (I like it more then AS5).
1st try snugged the bolts, 2min overheat and got a new error 0020 (instant now rather than a bit of a delay before the 0102)
2nd try snugged a lot, 2min heat, still 0020
left it for a few days
3rd snugged a little, 2.5min heat, still 0020
4th snugged a lot, 3min heat, still 0020

I just redid everything and my xbox is cooling down, I don't expect better results but ill post when I get them.

Do you think I should try the towel method and see if I can get something?
Any suggestions?

Ive searched the forms and haven't had much luck

note1 - I have but memory heat sinks on the memory and south bridge
note2 - I have an IR thermometer and found the gpu gets much hotter when you have the cable switched the HDTV

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bubbafish on June 23, 2007, 01:02:00 PM

I have the 0020 error too, and just like yours it comes on very soon after power on. I did Lawdawg's method too and have not had any luck making the 0020 go away. I'm starting to wonder if the x-clamp fixes don't work on 0020 errors.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: on impact on June 23, 2007, 05:08:00 PM

I went to Lowe's today and got the M5-.80 x 10 machine screws and the #10 flat nylon washers. They didn't have any 5mm flat metal washers so I'm going to try 2 different hardware stores tomorrow. I found the arctic silver 5 compound at radio shack which was $10 (arg). Tomorrow I have to try and find the 5mm flat washers. I still also need a T8 drill bit. I have a T10 already but I can't seem to find a T8 without having to buy a whole set of bits. I just want my 360 working already.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: tsf13 on June 23, 2007, 05:32:00 PM

ugh still no luck error code 0020

any suggestions?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Warrior904 on June 23, 2007, 06:44:00 PM

Just a reminder...you can get all the parts you need for this fix for $20 RIGHT HERE

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on June 23, 2007, 07:58:00 PM

Same thing for me. Error Code 0020. I did'nt try the x-clamp replacement. I don't want to try this if there's no result. Anyway, I can't find the screw. 20$ for 16 screws on ebay... 150% profit.

Anyway, like everyone, I don't have any game freezing, no glitch... It works perfectly (when it works). 0020 code on cold start 2 days after. A weird problem.

If somebody can tell me that he fixed it with the x-clamp replacement, I will try it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 24, 2007, 12:30:00 AM

QUOTE(Warrior904 @ Jun 23 2007, 08:20 PM)

Just a reminder...you can get all the parts you need for this fix for $20 RIGHT HERE

Helping people out is one thing....but $20 is rediculous for $6 worth of hardware. Please don't spam up this thread anymore.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bravoexo on June 24, 2007, 01:09:00 AM

0020 -> loosen the CPU side

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: k0mpresd on June 24, 2007, 01:26:00 AM

the board that is currently in my 360 had 0020 error code...heatgun fixed it twice but 0020 returned both times

did the xclamp mod and no more issues

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: on impact on June 24, 2007, 08:13:00 PM

Also there are little fibers from the crappy qtips on the cpu and gpu. I did my best to get all of them off but this won't effect how the system runs after I put the arctic silver 5 on there will it?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Warrior904 on June 24, 2007, 10:16:00 PM

Apply the Artic Silver right before you put everything back together.

The fibers from the Qtips shouldnt effect anything, the same thing happened to me.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: r_f8 on June 24, 2007, 11:27:00 PM

Just wanted to thank Lawdawg for this info. I got my first 360 off ebay thursday knowing it was broken. Used this method to fix it the same day it was delivered been playing fine for 72 straight hours. Not even glitched a little. Thanks again!! It was a great tutorial easy to understand and the parts list, which came to a total of $5.26 here, was easy to find. I already had the arctic silver. The torx bits were harder to find for me than it was to perform this fix. Thank You.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: alucard_xs on June 25, 2007, 12:50:00 AM

my 360 worked like a charm with the X replacement for 3 months but since yesterday, 3 red lights of death ... again ... so I opened it, try to fit the screw a little stronger, now, my 360 boots but freezes each time à play 5 minutes, the GPU rad is really hot, more than before ... a hint please ?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: succaworm on June 25, 2007, 02:05:00 AM

a couple months ago I did the x-clamp replacement and my 360 was working fine until this week it started 2 freeze up again so I redid the process and then it started dying out faster. now it only works for a couple hours until it shows the red lights and I have 2 fix it again. am I doing something wrong?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: gsm on June 25, 2007, 07:55:00 AM

QUOTE(succaworm @ Jun 25 2007, 05:41 AM)

I have the same problem here. Next thing I'll try is the penny fix. What do you think?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: on impact on June 25, 2007, 12:25:00 PM

I finally got the right size washers today so I did the fix. I'm waiting on it to cool down right now. Hopefully it works!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: on impact on June 25, 2007, 02:57:00 PM

My 360 works now!!! Thanks Lawdawg!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on June 25, 2007, 04:01:00 PM

can some tell me what temperature range a heatgun should be when usign a heatgun?? i know all the reason y u should no one i just trying to find out wht temperautr range a heatgun should eb in whn using it on this board

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Slid0r on June 25, 2007, 10:46:00 PM

Fixed my 360 after it breaking 3 months ago. Thanks

The Torx screws are easily findable at any Ace hardware store in the US.
Are the screws/washers organized funny at Lowes or what? It took the guy 15 mins to find them all.

Whats with microsoft gaming systems? On my xbox1, after a few years it broke down... but did a self repair (that involved desoldering the CMOS ugh..) and now this? I know I'm never buying a microsoft gaming system ever again

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 26, 2007, 12:25:00 PM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ Jun 25 2007, 05:37 PM)

Before doing the X clamp replacement (way back when) I did the heatgun trick. I had a laser thermometer that showed 600 degrees....but that was when I was really pi**ed that I couldn't get it. I had nothing to lose at that point. I really wouldn't recommend that method any longer though. If my tutorial doesn't do it for you, try RBJTech's method.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on June 27, 2007, 12:01:00 AM

Ohh i have nothink 2 loose is it 600C or 600f?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 27, 2007, 03:18:00 PM

QUOTE(wellmodded @ Jun 27 2007, 01:37 AM)

Ohh i have nothink 2 loose is it 600C or 600f?

600f.... celcius would be like 315

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on June 28, 2007, 06:30:00 PM

Good news!

I have unscrew the 4 CPU bolt. And the 2 fan run normaly. I think... But the heatsink is very hot.

Anyway... 5 min with forza, no problem. The case is open until I'm sure it's ok.

Under the board, my 8 screws can't sit the board in the bottom. To thick! So i will probably cut the casing under the 8 screws. I wanna know if there's a problem with that? Like if there's a problem with the flex? If the bord will flex to the bottom with nothing to stop it.

And by the way just before the x-clamp replacement my problem was a 0020.

Anyway... It's working I'm happy!

Thanks Lawdawgs for your great help!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 28, 2007, 09:09:00 PM

QUOTE(Anikachiktou @ Jun 28 2007, 08:06 PM)

Under the board, my 8 screws can't sit the board in the bottom. To thick! So i will probably cut the casing under the 8 screws. I wanna know if there's a problem with that? Like if there's a problem with the flex? If the bord will flex to the bottom with nothing to stop it.

I would be very careful in doing this. Depending on the thickness of the bolt-heads - You might just want to counter-sink from the inside (enough to make the difference).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wellmodded on June 28, 2007, 11:40:00 PM

don't cut the case get a file and grind down the metal it might be but f work but whn u cut the case wht happens is that if u ever need to pry the board up by one of those bolts u won't be able 2 because u already cut the board and believe me whn u starting gettign error 0022 u need to start bending tht board all ofver the place to fix it

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on June 29, 2007, 06:02:00 AM

I'm not sure I explain my problem correctly.

Here's a litle drawing picture of my setup.

IPB Image

I just want to know if I can cut betwen the 2 blue lines? Because for now, I can't screw the board in place.

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Xenawise on June 29, 2007, 06:20:00 AM

So the heads of the screws/bolts you are using are too thick. I have seen some screws that have large heads (mostly philips screws in the M5 size) so that using them with the washer does cause a clearance problem.

I would not cut out the whole area, I would just drill the holes that the original x-clamp screws went through larger than the heads of your screws so the screws can go through the bottom of the casing. Its kinda like RBJTech mod where he drills the holes a little bigger so he can put the screws through the casing. You just need to drill them large enough to clear the screw heads so you can bolt down the motherboard to the casing.

Use a wood block for backing and then drill the 8 holes there bigger until they are big enough to clear the screw heads. I would think a 1/2" hole would clear the heads.

I know the M5 screws that Home Depot sells are philips screws and have huge heads that won't even clear the casing if you had no washers on the bottom of the motherboard. The Lowes screws are straight blade heads and the heads are flat.

Good luck and congrats on getting the console going again!

Xenawise

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on June 29, 2007, 08:36:00 AM

Thanks for your advise. I'll probably do this. 8 holes to let the srews pass through.

There's no problem with the board itself? Like with the weight of the heatsink?

I just want to make sure my board will not flex to the bottom...

Thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Xenawise on June 29, 2007, 09:42:00 AM

As far as the board flexing to the bottom of the casing I would seriously doubt that would happen. There is too much support around the area that I am sure this will not be a problem.

Xenawise

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: succaworm on June 29, 2007, 12:13:00 PM

I keep getting the 3 red lights after playing for a couple mins and I've tried replacing the AS5 and tightening the screws but it doesn't seem like it really does anything because the system will work for a little while then it will start freezing up then it gives me the 3 red lights. I think the problem has something to do with cooling because the heatsinks get hot really fast even though the case is open and the dvd drive is placed outside does anyone have any Ideas on how to fix this? and the error code i keep getting is 0102. when replacing the AS5 on the GPU I've noticed that the thermal paste was dried out and light grey like the stock MS paste was when first doing the xclamp replacement. I know that many others are having these problems because I have read through a lot of posts claiming that they are having the same problems and that they are getting the 3rlod with the xclamp replacement (both methods RBJtech and Lawdawg's) These problems have lead me to consider investing in watercooling my 360 to see if that would help by keeping the temps down and not alowing the GPU to reach such high temps that currently in my opinion have caused my current problems. So my question is would watercooling my 360 stop the freezes and redlights? and would this be the only way to fix it?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on June 29, 2007, 12:58:00 PM

Same thing for me! My case is open, and my heatsinks came very hot in 1 min.

Only difference, no more 3RLOD...

I hope you will find a way to fix it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Xenawise on June 29, 2007, 01:35:00 PM

QUOTE(succaworm @ Jun 29 2007, 12:49 PM)

I would suggest RJBTech's extra cooling mods ( http://rbjtech.bulld...com/Xbox360.htm ) to the shroud and the GPU heatsink. You could also put in Talismoon fans (more airflow). You could even cut out the back grille to help airflow. But at the very least try the fan shroud and GPU cooling mods to see if that helps take the heat away better.

Xenawise

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 29, 2007, 04:27:00 PM

@Sharnock
You can do RBJTech's method without drilling out the heatsinks. I sent him part #'s that I have used on his method that don't require drilling out the heatsinks (keeping this semi-reversible). You still will have to remove small portions of the heatsinks so washers & locknuts can sit flush at the base of the fins.

@Anikachiktou
DO NOT remove that much of the bottom case. If the bolt heads are that bad, you should just get different bolts (much easier). Make sure the new bolt heads are the same height as the case stand-offs.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Zomie on June 30, 2007, 10:05:00 AM

Yet another 360 brought back to life, thanks Lawdawg!

I changed the type of bolts to a hex head that sits flat against the motherboard. This allows for more pressure to be put on the cpu/gpu by the heatsinks. One other suggestion is to tighten the bolts in a cross pattern like you would do lug nuts on your car.

After increasing the fans to 12v, and removing the casing around the fans all seems to be well. Played GRAW for 15mins then handed it over to my brother-in-law for further testing.

My only concern is that the bolts are causing the middle of the motherboard to rise, which in time if the heat isn't controlled will do the same damage as the x-clamps.

Zom

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on June 30, 2007, 05:27:00 PM

yes, it's a GPU error btw

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 30, 2007, 08:37:00 PM

QUOTE(Zomie @ Jun 30 2007, 11:41 AM)

Yet another 360 brought back to life, thanks Lawdawg!
My only concern is that the bolts are causing the middle of the motherboard to rise, which in time if the heat isn't controlled will do the same damage as the x-clamps.

Zom

Glad its working now. The board should not warp upward if the bolt-heads are the same size as the case stand-offs. The hex bolts sound fine, but if the heads are too big, you might need to counter-sink them enough to unflex the mobo...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on July 01, 2007, 12:58:00 AM

QUOTE(Bonggggg @ Jun 30 2007, 01:01 PM)

Hi guys, recently had the 3RLOD, so I'm gonna try this fix tomorrow. My error code is 0020, so should the fix work with this code?

Work for me!!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kabronkline on July 01, 2007, 10:29:00 AM

Alright, I have a quick question:

Using this method are we supposed to replace both the GPU and CPU's X-Clamps? Based on the graphic in your tutorial it looks like we are only replacing the CPU X-Clamp... the CPU X-Clamp looks easy to replace with the parts listed; however, the GPU X-Clamp looks like it may be somewhat harder to replace.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on July 01, 2007, 11:19:00 AM

You have to replace both.

I think you can change one, look if it's work.... If not, you change the 2nd one. Probably more GPU trouble than CPU.

But if your XBOX is open and you wanna make sure to fix it for a longuest time, your better changing the 2 xclamps.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kabronkline on July 01, 2007, 11:55:00 AM

I understand both are faulty; however, my question is geared towards this method because I only see that this method outlines the step required to replace just the CPU heatsink, no?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on July 01, 2007, 12:46:00 PM

No. It's only a drawing.

It's the same thing for the 2 heatsinks. Same screw size for both. Same washer too.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: larrycharlesb on July 01, 2007, 04:40:00 PM

After replacing the Xclamps it worked for 1 day. Now after playing for approximately 10 -15 the game goes black there are no red errors on the xbox but the system does not respond to anything. I have to turn it of. I turn it back and can play for a few minutes until it locks up again. I opened it up and made sure the bolts are screwed in tight. I also tried loosening them but still same problem. I left the Xbox case open and this time I was able to play for almost 1 hour. So I am assuming I am having a problem with the cooling system or Fan.

I would like to know what you guys suggest I do at this point.
I am thinking of buying and after market fan. I have heard about talismoon but if there are any other recommendations please let me know.

Has anyone else had this problem? if so how were you able to resolve it.

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Deeked on July 01, 2007, 04:46:00 PM

Some pics I took for the scene....

http://img.photobuck...3RLOD/Clean.jpg
http://img.photobuck...RLOD/Mirror.jpg
http://img.photobuck...D/TooMuch-1.jpg
http://img.photobuck...irrorFinish.jpg
http://img.photobuck...LOD/TooMuch.jpg
http://img.photobuck...emoveXClamp.jpg

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Pseudo99 on July 02, 2007, 01:54:00 AM

I've got a fun one for you guys to ponder over......

I've fixed a few consoles now with the Xclamp replacement fix, but this one is being particularly difficult.

Day one, I started out with Carkus' fix, and heating the motherboard for 2.5 mins and letting it cool. The next day, I played on the console for a few hours - worked fine.

Day two, I get 3rlod again. So I would assume that after heating up and cooling down, we have some sort of flex problem.

Day two, I resort to Rbjtech's X-Clamp replacement mod. I follow it exactly, and use the 3 washer method. Power up once, 3rlod, then again (as mentioned it might take an additional power cycle to clear the 'memory') and it powers up smooth. All evening I play working games, no problems.

Day three, power up 360, begin to play games...after a few mins, I get console freezing. Power cycle, no 3rlod, after a few mins, another freeze. These freezes are persistent.

Day three, go down to two washers, tighten nuts slightly. Works like a champ again. Play that night for several more hours, no problems.

Day four, power up 360, begin to play games, then getting strange video artifacts/problems, however no freezing. Power off for awhile. Power on just out of curiosity, goes directly to E74.

From what I understand, whenever I perform adjustments, I get a little bit closer to repairing this sucker. I still haven't exhausted my options in tightening the nuts on the gpu heatsink, I believe I'm just being conservative in the amount of pressure I've been applying. Also, I haven't examined the extent of contact that my Arctic Silver 5 paste has made with the GPU (whether or not it's getting spread out over the die completely due to adequate pressure).

I will continue to post updates as I get more results, but I would appreciate anyone else's input on the situation.

Thanks!
Pseudo

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 02, 2007, 09:14:00 AM

Console freezing and artifacts point to the GPU side of things. Concentrate on that side, ensuring the heatsink is making good contact with the die (spreading the AS5 evenly). Also perform any cooling mods that help out on the GPU side (fan shroud mod), maybe an extra 12v fan.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=577892

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kabronkline on July 02, 2007, 09:50:00 AM

Just played another solid hour of Rainbow SIx: Vegas, absolutely flawless. Any ideas on why the fan runs at higher RPM during game play now? It actually appears to be a good thing because the airflow is excellent, hopefully the replacement rear fan will do the trick...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: straightballin on July 02, 2007, 01:30:00 PM

Ive tried this fix many times on two seperate 360's and cant seem to get it to work

http://www.neogaf.co...p...6117&page=8

Check that page out and my username is the same- straightballin

Ive done and redone this mod a few times and cant get it to work if anyone can take a look at my posts on the last few pages of that page that would be great.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on July 02, 2007, 01:37:00 PM

My first attempt was not succesful too.

But one thing i've done to make it work.

Untight your screws.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on July 02, 2007, 02:28:00 PM

i had the 360 working after the xclamp fix but i play abot 15 minutes and then it gives me 2 red lights (overheating)...

anyone have this problem?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kabronkline on July 02, 2007, 03:34:00 PM

Just played Rainbow Six: Vegas for three hours straight, not a single problem. Again, I have been noticing the rear fans running at max RPM rate - although it does seem to cool the case off much better than before the X-Clamp removal, I'm just curious as to what may be causing this... any ideas?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: straightballin on July 02, 2007, 04:57:00 PM

Ive cleand the paste really good and put a very thin layer of artic silver. I let the thing over heat then let it sit for 2 minutes then tightened the screws. I let it completly cool down and turned it on. It waits about 10-15 secs with only the middle green light flashing and then goes to 3 red rings. 0022 is the error code im getting. The cpu heatsink seems to stay pretty cool in the beggning compared to previous times using it and the other 360 so maybe that cpu one is working? The gpu one seems to get warm really fast. Ive messed with the screws tightnes and get nothing currently Im using metal-plastic-board-plastic-metal washers. I feel that is better and working better and ive tried it with no metal washer. So were should i go from here boss?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PimpKillaJ on July 03, 2007, 02:06:00 AM

This is easy to email

PLEASE READ IN ENTIRETY BEFORE ATTEMPTING! And be careful!!

http://www.talismoon...whisperfan-blue
   Do yourself a favor and order your fans first

There are also unlocking kits sold online. It is not necessary but it does make it easier.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf
   This is the real deal
http://xboxfamily.pr...read=1181503041
   Excellent source of guides like error codes and how to disassemble especially the last one
http://copronymous.c...r-the-3rlod.pdf
   This is the original

This is my post that you should read before attempting.

Hell yes!! I finally brought my launch console back to life. It had been down since the end of January and I could not send it in because I had already put the tailsmoon fans in. Thank you so much for the tutorial. It worked so well I did not even have to bake it once I had the right materials. The eraser/penny fix was a waste of time and effort for me. My failures are on posts 71, 73, 77. http://forums.xbox-s...o...06431&st=60

It took me a couple attempts to get it right so I have a couple suggestions that I hope that you include into the tutorial soon. I am sure you will get fewer questions if you include:

Loose screws worked for me. I barely tightened them on my last attempt because I was planning on doing that after I heated it up. I guess I might have to one day but not while it is working!

1. From what I read in another post- High quality heat sink paste such as dynex will only vary a few degrees from artic silver so it is safe to use and more readily available for most people- Radio Shack, Best Buy, Circuit City all had it.

2. Compile a list of parts for different countries. Side note- You can print out the part list and take it to a lowes but do not trust them. Double check always. I checked online and 8 of them in the Tidewater VA area are completely out of the screws as well as the Home Depot I checked. Churchland Hardware had them though. I ended up using 1 screw under the heat sinks and 2 under the motherboard. Since I was given all metal washers I made sure that I used the smaller ones (eventually) that did not touch the circuits of the board. By the way the washers were one mm in height.

3. When it comes to replacing the heat sink paste, forget using alcohol. On my third attempt I used Goo Gone (available at super Wal-Mart where the cleaning supplies are for less than $5) and it ended up taking off the crap paste that I could never get off and it works fast. NOBODY within 30 min of me carries the Artic Silver 1or2.

4. It seems like a lot of people have had success when they used only a little thermal paste. That is the route I went when I finally fixed it. I found it much easier to use the plastic wrap method by which your finger is covered in it and you spread a SMALL- read barely covering- amount on the dies (shiny things under the heat sinks). Sorry I could not resist that because this is my first electronics repair and I did not figure it out for a while.

5. I had to get help to find a socket that would fit the legs of the heat sinks. Posting what others have used besides needle nose pliers might really help the mechanically uninclined such as myself.

6. Why not have links at the start of the tutorial to
http://xboxfamily.pr...read=1181503041
which has the links to dissemble the system or
http://www.talismoon...whisperfan-blue
which is the link to get the fans they almost positively need to have results (AND QUIET)

7. Post 42 explains his method of getting the screws into the heat sinks. It is much better than my original method of holding the four screws on the tips of my fingers! Yes people are that stupid/difficult without experience and I believe you will become inundated with repeat questions because reading all 35 pages of both yours and RBJtech's forum posts can be a chore.

8. How about keeping track of not how many people have got this to work but in what position it is in. I would REALLY like to put mine back vertical but am going to play it safe for now.

You have brought so much joy back into my life I wanted to find a way to improve yours. Thanks again.

To those of you who are suggesting this fix to friends- PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE refer them to this Post before they write something foolish that has to be read by possibly tens of thousands soon.

Lastly only plan on updating if I run into a problem.

**** Not for Noobs****
http://rbjtech.bulld..._com/XClamp.htm
This is likely your last alternative if you dont have any luck. It involves drilling your mother board and heat sinks!
**** Not for Noobs****

If none of this works for you I am sorry. There is nothing that I can do for you. All the information that I have is now in your hands. Please do not email me unless you would like to send money or something.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bonggggg on July 03, 2007, 08:07:00 AM

My ArtiClean 1&2 and AS5 finally came in the post this morning! I've taken all the old compound off the chips and so on. But is it ok to clean the area surrounding the chips with the ArtiClean? I'm talking about the bigger green square that the chips sit on, with all those little silver bits on them (Sorry, don't have a clue about the terminology!)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Xx The 0ne xX on July 03, 2007, 08:18:00 AM

this method fixed my friends console. I did the xclamp replacement for him, when he first gave it 2 me it had 3 red lights. I treid the towel method for half an hour and it fixed it kind of. When I was on the dashboard it would lock up after about 2-3 min of being on, or it would give me the checkered colored screen. As soon as I would but gears of war in it would competley lock up. I then kept playing it until it went back to 3 ROL, which it did after 20 min of it locking up and turning off then back on. Then I went to lowes got all the parts, also did AS5. As soon as I did this, it started working (stopped giving me 3 ROL). I didnt even unplug the fans and let it overheat. But i did that anyways, for 2 min. After 2 min I let it cool off for about 20 min, then i screwed it back into the metal casing, and it worked! we played gears of war online for 4 hours, without any type of freeze, or anything. The next day he told me he played gears of war for 5 hours, with the same story. So this method does work and it does repair ur console if possible, thanks for this wonderful fix method!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lilpaki on July 03, 2007, 11:54:00 AM

today i went and got the parts from b and q. i got the machine screws and metal flat washers, but couldnt find the nylon washers listed ealier. i asked and found these nylon washers that on the packet have written,
6mm,
1/4"

will these be ok? how will i order these, ie screw-washer-nylin-mobo etc?

finally i saw above the guy has cut his metal casing to make room for the screw heads. will i have to do this also?

thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on July 03, 2007, 01:55:00 PM

QUOTE(lilpaki @ Jul 3 2007, 01:30 PM)

depends on the size of the head on the screws

i didnt have to cut mine

and i figured out my problem on my overheating 360

i put too much thermal paste on the gpu so i recleaned it and put a teeny bit of the stuff on and spread it around

its been working great since last night and about 5 hours of gameplay

edit: although i havent tried putting the case back on but ill try that later and see if it doesnt overheat

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lilpaki on July 03, 2007, 02:08:00 PM

measuring with a rule, the heade is about 2.5mm

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bonggggg on July 03, 2007, 02:41:00 PM

It worked!

Lawdawg, I love you. In the most heterosexual kind of way, of course. Thank you so much!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bonggggg on July 03, 2007, 05:22:00 PM

Oh well, I thought it worked. I had it on the dash for a while with no problems, but 2 minuts after I put a game on, it freezes up. When i switched it on again, i got the 3RLOD again. It's happened a few times now, and I've had both the 0102 and 0103 error codes.

Any help guys? It's so disheartening to think it's gonna work and then it doesn't. Any help would be much appreciated.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on July 03, 2007, 07:21:00 PM

QUOTE(parris @ Jul 3 2007, 07:55 PM)

As there are 500+ replies and I am in no position to wade through them all, I will apologise if my suggestion is a duplication (or as I suspect, a multiple duplication).

I just downloaded the guide and it hasn't been amended with this advice, so I can only assume nobody has thus far mentioned it.

Rather than go through the various replacement steps before plugging everything in to resolder the SMD's to the motherboard with the fans removed, why not do as I have done and perform the towel solution prior to removing the clamps?

It is a simple, relatively straight-forward solution that is less risky than attempting this with the unit open, without fans for exactly 2mins.

The other benefit is that it pins down the issue prior to replacing the x-clamps. If the towel method fails to bring the unit back to life then it is unlikely that replacing the clamps will be successful.

Clearly, the towel method on it's own is a temporary solution and therefore your x-clamp tutorial is extremely useful. Just a case of revising it to include the towel method before people go and open the unit, perhaps for no reason at all.

Just a thought.

overheating your system with a towel will harm other components

i did the towel trick and it worked for 5 minutes

i did the xclamp fix and redid the thermal paste on the cpu/gpu

ive beeen running strong for 2 days now and at least 7 hours of gameplay

QUOTE(Bonggggg @ Jul 3 2007, 06:58 PM)

what worked for me was tighteneing the screws until you cant turn them with your hand

and when you apply the artic silver do not put alot of it on

put very little and spread it over so it is a verrrrrry thin coat

smooth it over with a credit card or anything similiar

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ORange-9mm on July 04, 2007, 02:02:00 AM

My 360 was on the dash and the graphics went very dark black. Turned the system off & rebooted to an "error 73" e73 repair screen. After that it booted to the xbox logo and froze. Wouldn't go any further...attempt 20 or more reboots...days later I found this thread. Wrapped the system in a blanket for 10 minutes with it running. Turned system off and let it cool for 20 minutes.

The system booted fine! WOOT!

Will be performing the x-clamp replacement soon. Thanks for the info! Happy 4th of July to me!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xb360xls on July 04, 2007, 07:20:00 AM

I need to perform this fix soon, I am waiting for ArctiClean 1 & 2 and Arctic Silver 5, no one around me had it....but I have one question. After I perform the fix and hopefully I get it to work, does it matter if the console is horizontal or vertical? Does this effect the fix or the 360 in general regarding the 3ROD errrors??

Thanks very much and everyone responsible for this fix and all related help, you guys are awesome!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xb360xls on July 04, 2007, 07:58:00 AM

Also, in case it is better to place it horizontal does it make sense to use a laptop cooler like the one below?? ANy better/cheaper recommendations for coolers if you guys think it helps??

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16834999850

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dasty on July 04, 2007, 07:30:00 PM

Tried it today and everything went just fine until I turned on the 360 again...got 0022 error code...I am getting tired of Xbox...I don't understand how a Xbox got a 33% failure rate. I tried everything...I just didn't use Arctic Silver...do you really think that would help? Because I'm tired of trying all different things to get it running again but I could do one last effort if I knew there was high possibility of getting it to work

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PimpKillaJ on July 04, 2007, 08:22:00 PM

Edit: I provided the post #42 under #7
PLEASE READ IN ENTIRETY BEFORE ATTEMPTING! And be careful!!

http://www.talismoon...whisperfan-blue
   Do yourself a favor and order your fans first

There are also unlocking kits sold online. It is not necessary but it does make it easier.

http://users.tpg.com...0FIX-Carkus.pdf
   This is the real deal
http://xboxfamily.pr...read=1181503041
   Excellent source of guides like error codes and how to disassemble especially the last one
http://copronymous.c...r-the-3rlod.pdf
   This is the original

This is my post (# 517) that you should read before attempting.

Hell yes!! I finally brought my launch console back to life. It had been down since the end of January and I could not send it in because I had already put the tailsmoon fans in. Thank you so much for the tutorial. It worked so well I did not even have to bake it once I had the right materials. The eraser/penny fix was a waste of time and effort for me. My failures are on posts 71, 73, 77. http://forums.xbox-s...o...06431&st=60

It took me a couple attempts to get it right so I have a couple suggestions that I hope that you include into the tutorial soon. I am sure you will get fewer questions if you include:

Loose screws worked for me. I barely tightened them on my last attempt because I was planning on doing that after I heated it up. I guess I might have to one day but not while it is working!

1. From what I read in another post- High quality heat sink paste such as dynex will only vary a few degrees from artic silver so it is safe to use and more readily available for most people- Radio Shack, Best Buy, Circuit City all had it.

2. Compile a list of parts for different countries. Side note- You can print out the part list and take it to a lowes but do not trust them. Double check always. I checked online and 8 of them in the Tidewater VA area are completely out of the screws as well as the Home Depot I checked. Churchland Hardware had them though. I ended up using 1 screw under the heat sinks and 2 under the motherboard. Since I was given all metal washers I made sure that I used the smaller ones (eventually) that did not touch the circuits of the board. By the way the washers were one mm in height.

3. When it comes to replacing the heat sink paste, forget using alcohol. On my third attempt I used Goo Gone (available at super Wal-Mart where the cleaning supplies are for less than $5) and it ended up taking off the crap paste that I could never get off and it works fast. NOBODY within 30 min of me carries the Artic Silver 1or2.

4. It seems like a lot of people have had success when they used only a little thermal paste. That is the route I went when I finally fixed it. I found it much easier to use the plastic wrap method by which your finger is covered in it and you spread a SMALL- read barely covering- amount on the dies (shiny things under the heat sinks). Sorry I could not resist that because this is my first electronics repair and I did not figure it out for a while.

5. I had to get help to find a socket that would fit the legs of the heat sinks. Posting what others have used besides needle nose pliers might really help the mechanically uninclined such as myself.

6. Why not have links at the start of the tutorial to
http://xboxfamily.pr...read=1181503041
which has the links to dissemble the system or
http://www.talismoon...whisperfan-blue
which is the link to get the fans they almost positively need to have results (AND QUIET)

7. Post 42 explains his method of getting the screws into the heat sinks. It is much better than my original method of holding the four screws on the tips of my fingers! Yes people are that stupid/difficult without experience and I believe you will become inundated with repeat questions because reading all 35 pages of both yours and RBJtech's forum posts can be a chore
. I put a book underneath the bottom of the motherboard when I turned the motherboard over to face up. I then added the washers and placed the heatsink on top. I then moved the book (with the motherboard on top) to the edge of a table and then slid the motherboard off the book so only 1 screw wasn't being supported by the book. This way I could focus on holding and screwing in one screw at a time. Once that screw was done I could move the motherboard in a different position to reveal another screw and so on.

8. How about keeping track of not how many people have got this to work but in what position it is in. I would REALLY like to put mine back vertical but am going to play it safe for now.

You have brought so much joy back into my life I wanted to find a way to improve yours. Thanks again.

To those of you who are suggesting this fix to friends- PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE refer them to this Post before they write something foolish that has to be read by- possibly tens of thousands soon.

Lastly only plan on updating if I run into a problem.

**** Not for Noobs****
http://rbjtech.bulld..._com/XClamp.htm
This is likely your last alternative if you dont have any luck. It involves drilling your mother board and heat sinks!
**** Not for Noobs****

If none of this works for you I am sorry. There is nothing that I can do for you. All the information that I have is now in your hands. If you appreciate this feel free to let me know though.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 04, 2007, 10:08:00 PM

QUOTE(xb360xls @ Jul 4 2007, 08:56 AM)

AS5 makes quite a difference in temperature dissipation (saw a chart on it once), and I would recommend placing it horizontal. If you decide to place it vertical, then go with RBJTech's method (more secure - but also more involved). RBJTech's site also has tutorials for cooling mods.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jimm120 on July 05, 2007, 03:21:00 PM

SORRY. I really can't read up on all 36 pages. I think I read 5 - 10 pages but 36 was too much to see if people answered my inquiries beforehand.

Please, if you guys can help, please do.

Ok....I've purchased some of the stuff.

I have
---------------------------
3/16 x 3 screws
3/16 x 3/4 screws
3/16 x 1/2 screws
--------------------------

WHICH one should I use?

_____________________________________________________________

I also obtained
--------------------------------
3/16 metal Washers
--------------------------------

--I COULD NOT FIND THE NYLON/FIBER WASHERS. What can I do about this? I'm pretty sure I won't find it in this country so.... Any other options?
_____________________________________________________________

I also found
--------------------------------
Thermal Compound
--------------------------------
But they (tutorials) ask for Arctic Silver Thermal Compound....I found Thermal Dielectric Compound (same thing as thermal paste) BUT it is white, not silver in color. Does it matter?

Thank you gurus for any help that you can provide.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 05, 2007, 05:09:00 PM

QUOTE(jjrooster @ Jul 5 2007, 10:03 AM)

the mobo would still be secure (via all the screws going into the ports)... Isn't that enough or ?

It should be, but with the track record M$ has with these consoles - something else could be stressed. I myself would lay it flat, or do RBJTech's method for vertical - as it's much more secure.

@jimm120
No idea whether or not those would work. There aren't any metric sized bolts where you are? The parts listed should be fairly universal, I've heard slight variations - but not very many.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kabronkline on July 06, 2007, 08:09:00 AM

Breaking news I'm sure we all have heard:

http://www.xbox.com/...mooreletter.htm

All XBOX 360 consoles ever sold now have a 3 year warranty to cover all hardware problems. Since we modified our XBOX 360 does that mean we are not now covered by this warranty? Considering XBOX repair wanted 200 dollars to repair my console there was no way I could afford doing so; thus leaving me the only option of using the X-Clamp replacement method - which has now left me with a WORKING 360.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jjrooster on July 06, 2007, 08:12:00 AM

Success!

Did everything as per Lawdawg's guide, although I could not find fiber/nylon washers so I used teflon ones.
I also did RBJ's fan shroud mod.

My first try at overheating without fans did not work (It did go to 2 red lights after a couple mins, I left it on for 2 more minutes to cook but it didn't get hot enough). So I reset the screws and did it again, and this time it got hot enough. Took the mobo out again and tightened the screws another full turn, plugged it back in and it went green!

Had time to play a game for an hour... no issues. We'll see if it holds up. HUGE thanks to the pioneers who discovered the issues and provided guides and advice.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: peja43916 on July 06, 2007, 06:58:00 PM

2 days and strong still after doing the mod. Thanks.!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on July 07, 2007, 11:40:00 AM

a week has gone by and still running like a champ

and i play alot...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: peakey on July 07, 2007, 03:17:00 PM

Hi All,

I have tried this and at the moment cant get it to work, I still get the 3 red lights, can someone confirm that you have to put the box back together completely to test it or should it still work with the case removed ?

Cheers

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on July 07, 2007, 08:33:00 PM

QUOTE(peakey @ Jul 7 2007, 05:53 PM)

No difference with case open or not. I let my case open 1 week after the x-clamp replacement, to test it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaddyLongLegs on July 08, 2007, 07:23:00 AM

If I do lawdawg's guide, so I need to force a 3rrod (the thing that gets the solder all hot) even though I barely get the 3 red rings? My console freezes occasionally and I had the 3 red rings once a very long time ago (a restart fixed it) so I don't want to FORCE it to happen. Just makin sure this fix will still be a good idea without doing that step!

And where do you guys recommend buying the Talismoon fans?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lilpaki on July 08, 2007, 12:00:00 PM

hi,

i have these 6mm, 1/4" nylon washers. i was wondering if it would be 'safe' to do lawdawgs method with 1 nylon washer below the baord and 1 on thop? or would the pressure on the chip be too dangerous? thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: she roams on July 08, 2007, 04:00:00 PM

Hey could use a little help with figuring out what i am doing wrong.

So I am up to step 7 of the tutorial where I heat the board.. We just did the A5 and put the heatsinks back on with the washers and screws as instructed. So with the dvd player plugged in, the video cord running to the tv, we put the power supply in and powered on.. we get the 2 red lights immediately and no heat.. is it that the cpu or gpu are overheating immediately because the sinks are on wrong, so it just auto-shuts off? The screws fit perfectly, although they are shorter then what i've seen from other pics in this thread..we have the 2 washers..nylon hugging the board, and metal hugging the nylon... they are as tight as we can get them i think.

Any suggestions would be appreciated..

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pricemeista33 on July 08, 2007, 05:28:00 PM

That's not good to tighten the screws as tight as possible. All you need to do is snug them down tight enough where you get the cores to become flush with the heat sink. Too much pressure will cause stress on the surrounding capacitors. You will definitely get the Ring of Death immediately. Equal pressure on the cores is the key!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: she roams on July 08, 2007, 07:37:00 PM

QUOTE(she roams @ Jul 8 2007, 06:36 PM)

solved this.. a good connection wasn't being made btwn the chips and the sinks because of the 2 washers... got rid of the metal one, and contact seems to be made...

Now i get the 3rlod when i power on, i heated up for 2 min, although didn't get the shut-off, tightened the screws evenly and snugly, and then heated up again for 4 min, still didn't get the auto-shut off or the 2 lights.

Going to try powering on again after it cools down, but it doesn't seem like this going to fix the problem.

Any suggestions?

QUOTE(pricemeista33 @ Jul 8 2007, 08:04 PM)

Thanks for the reply. I kept this in mind when going back in to figure out the problem. I think everything is snug and flushed well now..

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: she roams on July 09, 2007, 08:25:00 AM

A friend of mine mentioned to me that I may have burned out the cpu and gpu by powering on without the heatsinks being flush to the chips. I really wish that Lawdawg would have mentioned the importance of making sure not to power on unless if full contact is made btwn chips and sink.. or that someone would have thought about this and warned those of us who are inexperienced trying out this fix. My arctic silver came with no instructions, and I was going only on all of the posts and tutorials from here. If only i Had been warned or had the instructions from arctic silver... i could have saved myself from this meltdown...

Please whoever is moderating this thread.. or the tutorial.. please add a warning for those of us who are new to working with chips and heatsinks.. and who don't already know that a cpu can burn out in 10 seconds without a heatsink. My heatsinks weren't flush because of the 2 washers raising the sinks too high up off the board.. didn't realize it until it was apparently too late.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: she roams on July 09, 2007, 08:35:00 AM

incidently... if someone knows if there is a way to verify that i did in fact kill the cpu or gpu... I would be very appreciative of the info...

thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: gabe681 on July 09, 2007, 10:32:00 AM

Just wanted to add. That this does work if done properly> My xbox was giving me the 3 red lights of death on thursday and friday of last week could not get it to boot. I found this tutorial and did the fix on saturday! The box has been working fine since. Keep up the good work Lawdawg!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xb360xls on July 09, 2007, 10:44:00 AM

Regarding the post above about the heatsinks not being flush with the CPU/GPU and chance of burning them out, is it better to initially tighten the screws a bit more and then slowly loosen them until the 360 works?

I am still waiting for the Arctic Silver and don't want to screw things up? How would I know if it is flush? Someone suggested tightening the screws by hand only until you can't do anymore initially, I am somewhat afraid of doing so cos may not tighten them enough..

Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lilpaki on July 09, 2007, 10:48:00 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dasty on July 10, 2007, 01:54:00 PM

Tried everything...NO success

My 360 stopped working in April. I tried to reapply thermal compound and it didn't work (not Arctic Silver). Inittialy I had the 0020 error code and didn't know what to do...then my Xbox started acting weird...when I to reflashed the drive to the original firmware it worked and when I flashed it again to the modded firmware it didn't, and so on...

Some users here told me to try the X-clamp replacement and I chose lawdawg's method because it was easier to do and I was tired of messing with the console. Did it with Arctic Silver and instead of Nylon Washers I used plastic ones (I couldn't find anymore than that). After waiting 40 minutes for it to cool down I turned it on and 3LOD AGAIN! But now with the 0102 error. I messed a little with the screws and reaplied some Arctic Silver after cleaning it again and error 0022 appeared. Now I can't get it to work anymore

Tried everything...I am disappointed to be one of the 50 +/- guys that couldn't get the 360 to work with these method.

Anyway, thanks to lawdawg and if any of you know what I could try more tell me please...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 12, 2007, 06:38:00 AM

Hi guys, great thread, i have high hopes for this fix! Just a quickie though.. could someone confirm that what i'm about to go and buy will be ok? I couldn't find the countersunk screws anywhere near, but i did find these pan head slotted ones, all from b+q in the uk.

Machine Screws Pan Head Slotted Bright Zinc Plated M5 x (L)10mm 8 Pack

EAN: 5020789069918

http://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/i...0_generic$

Flat Washers Bright Zinc Plated M5 (L)60mm Pack

EAN: 5020789064968

http://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/i...0_generic$

I also have the Arctic Silver thermal paste and the Arctic silver cleaning liquid.

Thanks for any help in advance

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FrederickUK on July 12, 2007, 11:11:00 AM

+1 on the success list

I had an 0020 failed box and gave it a go... had slight success yesterday (would work, then ROD, then work then ROD) until I ran it with the GPU heatsink loose (ie *NOT* bolted to the motherboard). This let me apply pressure in individual corners of the GPU.

It RROD'ed holding corners 1, 3 and 4, but when I held down corner 2, the box booted up and worked fine.

Corner numbering is clockwise from top left - so corner 1 is north west, 2 is north east, 3 is south east, 4 is south west, just like the light ring segments. Looking back across the board front to back, so ring of light is infront, graphics connection is rear left, power is rear right.

I used nylon washers on both sides of the board and steel washers on corners 1, 3 and 4 on top of the nylon. I've just used bare nylon on corner 2 of the GPU and it showed no signs of damage (melting etc) from a stint of Prey and Burnout, and plus as it's my 2nd 360 it's not the end of the world if it does start to deform.

I've already added to the official success post too

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Snake Plisken on July 12, 2007, 11:16:00 AM

Well Success this has worked for me got the parts from B & Q here in Ireland and did the mod on Tuesday night Everything is working fine, just ran a couple of Endurance races in Forza and no freezing, same with Call of Juerez, couldn't get past the first cut scene without it freezing last week, now plays fine.

If you've built a pc yourself you should have no problem doing this job.

Snake

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: uk_dan2k on July 12, 2007, 01:09:00 PM

hey guys im trying clamp replacement, something that wasnt clear in the guide or im an idiot, on my heatsinks they have a wierd screw and bolt on them the ones the clamps hook onto before using the black screws.

Do you leave these on and use them bolts mentioned in the guide to screw into them?

also does anyone know the mm size of the thread if these wierd screw bolts are used, so i know which size width wise on the threads to buy for bolts on the uk ebay site, i've got some that claimed they're m5, but are to big to fit in.

also does anyone know what size thread the small black screws are that hold the heatsinks through the casing.

thanks 4 the help.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FrederickUK on July 12, 2007, 01:56:00 PM

Dan they are m5 bolts, you unscrew the original stanchions out of the heatsinks first, they're an odd size - about 6.5mm (a 7mm socket is too big, 6mm just too small) so I just used a pair of sidecutters to cut into the side of the nut to undo them, you could use pliers too, but I didn't have any to hand.

B&Q do the parts you need and it's only £1.30 a bag for the screws, can't remember the number but it's one of the following: AVF-064968, AVF-069871, AVF-069352.

If you get stick from the B&Q person saying they can't look up that code cos it's not a barcode, then add 5020789 to the start of the number, so they'd become

5020789 064968
5020789 069871
5020789 069352

The little black things look to be about M3 if that, you don't reuse them unless you lose the screws that hold the RF board to the case.

Hope this helps

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaddyLongLegs on July 12, 2007, 02:38:00 PM

Is it okay to do this mod but skip the step where I have to heat the system up? My system does not give me red lights but locks up a lot, plus I'd like to prevent red lights in the future.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Hazimov on July 12, 2007, 03:09:00 PM

Hello guys,

I fixed my Xbox360 last week and it worked amazingly fine

until

IPB Image

Similar problem faced me earlier at the fix but I figured out that too much paste was the cause of the problem. Now I tried to do the same trick that worked last time I just cleaned the old AS5 and put it once again but the problem is still occurring.

Any ideas?!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Hazimov on July 12, 2007, 03:32:00 PM

^

PS:

The Xbox360 boots up and the RING OF LIGHT works normally but there's no picture on the screen.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaX PL on July 12, 2007, 06:40:00 PM

hey lawdawg, i did your fix on a unit about a month or two back and now the red lights are back.

what further steps should be made to fix the unit?

i have yet to re-open it and check the fit of the screws and the thermal paste.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xb360xls on July 13, 2007, 08:28:00 AM

MAX PL, just wondering if you had also done any of the cooling mods? The talismoon fans, the airflow divider and cutting out the metal/plastic vents in the back?? The above combination will help the unit run cooler and last longer with the x-clamp fixes, once you get the 360 working again..

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: on impact on July 13, 2007, 09:04:00 PM

Anyone fix a broken 360 with error code 0022? That is a CPU error related to shitty soldering. I have already fixed a 360 with error code 0102 and another 360 with error code 0020. I am thinking about buying a broken one with error code 0022 on ebay if this method would work.

Please let me know!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: saintirish on July 13, 2007, 11:28:00 PM

Ok, I did the X clamp fix for my Xbox a couple months ago or so. Now, the Xbox still works, but it is acting flaky like making weird sounds, and getting audio/video out of sync while watching wmv videos. Is there any chance Microsoft would fix it under warranty since I have already broken the seal?? Does anyone have any ideas I can try that may help with these weird issues? They don't seem to happen until after the Xbox has been on for a while.

Thanks!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RobotChild on July 14, 2007, 03:13:00 PM

My 360 does not get the 3RLOD, but it does lock up during games. Would this method fix the issue?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RobotChild on July 15, 2007, 12:01:00 AM

QUOTE(saintirish @ Jul 14 2007, 10:03 PM)

Games locking up was happening a lot before my xbox eventually got the 3 ring issue. I'd say you may turn it on one day soon to find the 3 rings. Time to call Microsoft . . . soon

My warranty is shot. I've opened this thing up and done small little mods so many times. (Stuff like ramsinks, and RBJtechs fan shroud thing)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: larrycharlesb on July 15, 2007, 08:58:00 PM

I replaceed the xclamps a couple of weeks ago. Ever since then my xbox has worked intermitently. I have done the following:

- Replaced Xclamps
- Cleanes original thermal paste and applied AS5.
- Cut Metal Mesh in back of Xbox.
- Shroud divider.
- Installed Talismoon Fan.

After doing all this My XBOX locks up while playing. No lines on scree, just frozen picture. I turn it off then on again and it works for another few minutes. I have tried leaving the cover off and I am able to play for about 1 hour. If I close the Xbox I can only play for 20 minutes. I have tried Tightening the bolts and also I have left them snug and loose but nothing seems to work. I also have noticed that When I leave case open The GPU heatsync gets VERY VERY HOT. While the copper heatsink is just fine.

Does anyone have any other suggestions I can try to get my xbox repaired once and for all.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jhollon on July 15, 2007, 09:02:00 PM

I have had mine since only Xmas 06 and it began acting up about two weeks ago and started to get under my skin. It only booted up 1 out of 30 times and the rest were the three red lights.
Over the weekend i found this tutorial and headed to lowes with parts list in tow. I had a hell of a time finding those parts so i asked an old associate in the department to give me a hand. he was around 55 and very helpful, the next part was surprising. I read him the first item number for the screws and he found it right away and ask me how many i needed, i told him eight. He then asked me for the next part number i told him the part number and quantity for the metal washers, he looked at me and said, "hey, let me see that list". I gave it to him and he said, "Xclamp fix, right". I was astonished. He said these part numbers have been flying of the shelves and no one figured out why until he had the same problem with his xbox and told the folks at the store about ordering more parts. He wanted to make a special pack for the replacement parts for everyone needing them, but the lawyers at Lowes said no, becuase it would incourage people to void their warranties and they didn't want to assume any liability. He was on my page. The only problem was that he (lowes) were having problems with getting those nylon washers in stock, they were out. He said when he saw this coming across as a problem, he looked for an alternative and said he found one that worked just as well that he tested with a heat gun for any possible melting issues. It was some rubber washers that were the same size. He said that they would actually work better because they gave just a little bit to give a more even pressure on the heat sink to chips. I said , hell i will try in and bought them, the system was already broke. I took everything home and assembled it and BOOM, i almost cried. It was working perfectly. being worried about the rubber washers melting, i ran it for 24 hours solid playing around 4 hours worth of games and then pulled the unit back apart to check the washers and they are in the same condition as in the package. I don't have the part number, but will get it and post it as an alternative tomorrow (gotta dig in the trash)--- happy to do this to aid others.....

THANKS FOR ANOTHER SUCCESS STORY!!!!!!! YOU ROCK>>>>>>>

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: notrain on July 15, 2007, 10:08:00 PM

Does anyone have part# for Germany or at least a german description which screws / washers to get for this method ?

Any help is appreciated.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kreez on July 16, 2007, 12:10:00 AM

Well I was not able to find all the parts listed here. For some reason here in Vancouver, Canada, everything we have is in metric, except for nuts and bolts! I went to 4 hardware stores, and metric parts are always relegated to just a few random pieces in a small drawer.

Anyway, I tried 2 configurations with imperial parts (No.6-32x1" machine screws)

1st configuration:
Between case and board: No.6 nut + No.6 washer. This was 3.97mm thick, instead of the 3.71mm of the metric parts.
Between board and sink: Two No.6 washers. This was 2.38mm, the tutorial asks for 1 (0.71mm) 2 (1.42mm) or 3 (2.13mm) washers.
I anchored everything down by tightening the lock nuts as tight as possible then loosening 1/2 turn.

Result: Booted up ok, froze 5 mins into the game. I then let it overheat, rebooted, and played Gears for an hour or so. Then went out, came back later to play more, got 3 red lights. I couldn't revive it using any combiniation of overheating or whatever

2nd configuration: I went down to a single washer between the board and sink. This was 1.16mm, the tutorial asks for 1 (0.71mm) 2 (1.42mm) or 3 (2.13mm) washers.

Result: 3 red lights, tried a bunch of times to revive with heat methods, but nothing worked.

----

I was really optimistic this would work, as my sizes were fairly close to the ones in the tutorial, but nope, I guess I'll make a bigger effort to hunt down metric parts.

Does anyone here in Vancouver or Canada have recommendations? I tried the big Home Depot, and 3 local places.
I've got the screws and nuts, I need washers and lock nuts. A local place had 4mm washers, but wanted 39c per washer and only had a few left.

Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kreez on July 16, 2007, 02:44:00 AM

ah, sorry, got the wrong x-clamp thread! Can't seem to find the edit button...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xb360xls on July 16, 2007, 06:46:00 AM

Regarding the non-metals washers used for this method, i think it is better to get fiber washers instead of the nylon ones according to the tutorial as well. I was lucky enough to find them at Home Depot and my 360 seems to be working, have not had the time to put it through a long test yet, but on replacing x-clamps it turned on w/o even needing to heat it etc...also performed the cooling mods, now if I can only find those termal pads for the bottom and good/cheap passive heatsinks for above rams....anyone, ANYONE?? help?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: peasofcrap on July 16, 2007, 08:37:00 AM

so much thanks to Lawdawg and everyone tips.

i couldnt find enough metal washers at lowes so i used extra nylons. do you think the nylons will melt against the heatsink?

its working now but on the southbridge i have all nylon washers on the heatsink side.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Dickslide on July 17, 2007, 07:55:00 AM

seems like a nice mod

so any dutch guys here who did this trick?

and where did you guys buy the stuff en what sizes

thnx

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jhollon on July 17, 2007, 08:25:00 AM

the rubber washers i used instead of nylon is
Lowes part #880367 5/32 x 3/8 x 1/16 Rubber Washers (they only come two to a pack $.92/each pack)

They fit snug over the screw which gives you the added bonus of holding the screw in the hole when you flip the mobo over to actually install the heatsinks back. Again, I think these are a winner. I have the repaired 360 running 5 days straight now and I have setup several long CPU vs CPU NCAA08 games during this time and it has worked flawlessly. Last night, i took the 360 apart and double checked the substituted rubber washers for wear and/or melting, and they still look fine. I will keep my eye on it with weekly inspections for a couple of weeks to make sure, but i am running this thing alot harder than i ever have before and it seems to be holding up just fine. I will stay in touch.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bongfish on July 17, 2007, 10:46:00 AM

I did the fix last night and it works great !!! Had no problems with it and is really easy to follow

Have got another 2 xbox 360's coming later this week that need fixing so going to use the same fix !

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 17, 2007, 01:10:00 PM

Would M5 13mm bolts be totally useless? as i have some in my house at the moment, thanks, also, can you put a metal washer directly onto the motheroard as opposed to nylon>metal, as i can't find nylon washers anywhere.

Thanks for any help .

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hendrix219 on July 17, 2007, 01:29:00 PM

Just got 3 lights 2 days ago, going to go to Lowes tomorrow. In addition I will do the 12v fan mod too. I will post my progress tomorrow.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 18, 2007, 12:12:00 AM

Just tried with the 13mm screws and 3 metal washers underneath and 1 spring washer and metal on top, the 3 red lights have gone away but the console freezes every 10 minutes and the GPU gets extremely hot. I wasn't expecting it to work, but what does the freezing and hot GPU indicate, that the screws are too long? i'm using arctic silver 5 and when i took the gpu off after freezing it looked like it made an ok contact with the paste on the die.

Thanks for any help.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: qsahmed on July 19, 2007, 01:42:00 PM

Can anyone help me with the Screws and washers. I cant find them in INdia.

Can anyone send them to my address in INDIA, i will give him the money online.

The screws, washers and arctic silver compound.

i wil be grateful.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: leorimolo on July 20, 2007, 12:09:00 AM

Any comments or suggestions on my setup?
IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xb360xls on July 20, 2007, 06:35:00 AM

qsahmed, check you PM/emails, sent you a message regarding sending you required materials.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hameda on July 20, 2007, 07:44:00 AM

hi guys,
was wondering if it's good to do the xclamp replacement on a normally working xbox to make it last longer

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 20, 2007, 08:15:00 AM

If it's not broke...don't fix it! Maybe print the tutorial & put it aside for a rainy day.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 20, 2007, 10:30:00 AM

She's still going, that's about 1hr 15 mins now, but the gpu is still very very hot! Is this normal? also, about 10 minutes ago, the fan went into hyper speed for about 20 seconds, what was that about?

Thanks for any help guys!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kidman64 on July 21, 2007, 11:23:00 AM

yeah, gpu heatsink gets really hot (burning even), that's why MS is using new gpu heatsink:) as longs as it doesn't freeze you're good to go:)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ChewyChewbacca on July 21, 2007, 11:59:00 AM

How much arctic silver paste should I put on each chip?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on July 21, 2007, 12:36:00 PM

QUOTE(ChewyChewbacca @ Jul 21 2007, 01:35 PM)

How much arctic silver paste should I put on each chip?

just enough to cover the chip with a thin layer

use a credit card or a drivers license to smooth it over the chip, trying to make it as even as possible

EDIT: ive also been running strong since july 1st...

thanks lawdawg, because i didnt have the money to fix or replace the system, with your tutorial i was able to give my 360 new life

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: notrain on July 21, 2007, 02:26:00 PM

I did this mod two days ago, got my box running without problems, thanks!

Here are parts for german xbox owners, if anyone cares:
You should be able to get everything by the DIN (Deutsche Industrie Norm) Number

Metal Washer: Unterlegscheiben Metall 5,3 DIN125
Plastic Washer: Unterlegscheiben Polyamid 5,3 DIN125

I got those at Hornbach

The Screws I used can be bought from TOOM. They are called:

Suki M5 x 10 DIN 963 Machinenschraube, Senkkopf CODE F.

Hope this helps anyone at all.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MarutiDriver on July 21, 2007, 02:40:00 PM

That's good to know, most places in my country that sell bolts and nuts use DIN as a standard. This is starting to become simplier.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ChewyChewbacca on July 21, 2007, 02:51:00 PM

Thanks a lot for the sweet fix. I gathered all my supplies and had a blast fixing my Xbox 360 and the end result is amazing. I love being able to play again and not see 3 red lights. Another success story!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: muskamike on July 21, 2007, 03:37:00 PM

Hey all,

I received the 3RedRings 1 week ago. I had modded the xbox previously and had been running fine for over a year until this came up.

I came across this tutorial and took off to the hardware store. Home Hardware (Canada) (roughly 3.90$ for all hardware and washers) had everything I needed. I then went to London Drugs to get some thermal paste (4.95$)

Some things I came across:

- The existing paste is difficult to remove. I believe someone else mentioned this and I am sure there are other products, but 'Goo-gone' worked perfectly to remove everything.

- I ended up putting 1 washer/1nylon per side.

- I had to hacksaw 4 of the screws because of length (and I was too lazy to go back to get the proper ones) It was easy though, just don't mess up the threads.

- It took 3 minutes 42 seconds to receive the overheating lights. The OP said his was 2 mins. I am sure results will vary.

Thats about all I can think of for things that came up. Anyways, I booted it up and like everyone else, worked perfectly. It's been 5 days now, consistent play, no problems.

Thanks to the OP and contributors, and xbox scene.

If only someone could get some XBMC on the 360...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: giza on July 21, 2007, 08:36:00 PM

All I can say is thanks for the tutorial for fixing the 3ROD. My son wasn't able to play any games for more than 2 minutes before it was over heating. Now he is able to play his games again. I picked up all of the parts from Home Depot and fix the 360 in like an hour max. This most definitely bet sending in another 360 to get fixed (although I have voided my warranty now).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 21, 2007, 09:44:00 PM

QUOTE(notrain @ Jul 21 2007, 04:02 PM)

@notrain
Thanks for the German parts list, appreciate it. Also glad to hear the fix worked for you - up & running again!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: notrain on July 22, 2007, 10:27:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jul 22 2007, 06:20 AM)

@notrain
Thanks for the German parts list, appreciate it. Also glad to hear the fix worked for you - up & running again!

No need to thank me, I pulled some valuable info off these forums, so I am glad I could give something back. It would have been really helpful though, if you had some pictures of the screws you used in your PDF tutorial, especially for people abroad. I got lucky that the hardware stores in germany are very large and you can find various stores around where I live, so I just got like five different types of Screws and sat down at home and tried which work best.

Fortunally I modded my Computer with a watercooling system two years ago, so screwing heatsinks into a Motherboard is something I have done quite often, but with the xbox360 it is quite tricky since there are no Spacers or Heatspreaders to protect the die on the chip. One has to be really careful when tightening down the screws, so they will be tight but won't crack the chip's surface.
Imo this is also the biggest issue where mistakes can be made, I saw some screenshot of a dashboard which was totally garbled, probably the poor guy cracked his GPU.

Anyway, great tutorial. Easy to use, yet powerful results

. I'd say my Xbox runs better than when it was new.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: notrain on July 23, 2007, 08:46:00 AM

I wanted to edit my post but the forum didn't let me

.

I found a picture in this thread from the screws I used, they are on the right side of the ruler:
IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dtotheizoop on July 23, 2007, 04:56:00 PM

Ok, i need help! I started with a 0102 rerro and i did lawdog's utorial exactly how he had it. When i went to overheat the system, it wouldnt overheat. I looked and it now has the 0002 error code. Does anyone know how i can fix this? Nothing looks broken?
HELP!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 24, 2007, 04:16:00 AM

Doh! It froze on me last night while playing Call of Juarez, it was about 30 minutes into the game and the console froze with green vertical lines on the screen, i reset the console and it turned on straight way. Does anybody know what this indicates? Did the fix not work or do i just need to find a better way of cooling it?

Thanks for any info!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 24, 2007, 02:02:00 PM

QUOTE(dtotheizoop @ Jul 23 2007, 06:32 PM)

OK, this code 0002 Network Interface problem. Look at that area on the mobo..... You don't HAVE to overheat it. Only if you still get the 3RLOD after completing the tutorial. Sounds like you have other issues to clear up first.

@Nitram100

Freezing usually indicates a GPU issue. Cooling mods for the GPU side of things can only help. RBJTech's got some excellent cooling mods. Check his area for links to his tutorials.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Vfreitas on July 24, 2007, 09:48:00 PM

I went out and bought a brand new premium thinking my old one was dead for sure. I even put it up on the BST to try and get rid of it. No offers came about in the last few days so I went digging around, found this and the success stories and tried it myself. It was simple enough and within an hour it was up and running. I am noticing alot more heat being pulled, which I assume is normal, so I'll have to dive into a cooling mod or two.

In about week I'll throw up my results in the success thread. Thanks again for the great tutorial.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: keine on July 25, 2007, 12:39:00 AM

I re-read the first post, and I don't think my question is allowed.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 25, 2007, 01:29:00 AM

Zuhaib, i'm using metal washers only and it seems to have worked, i've only had 1 freeze and it's definately down to insufficient cooling, what you could do is cover one end of the washer in electrical tape to insulate it from the motherboard, i think i might try this, carkus did this in his tutorial, it's about 15 pages back i think.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: zuhaib_s on July 25, 2007, 01:34:00 AM

actually rite now i was thinknig not using washers at all coz it does not come over the brown circle things so i dont think it would mess with the motherboard. what do u think??

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PersianGuy on July 25, 2007, 04:26:00 AM

Hi all and first of all sorry for my bad English!

1. I want to use Lawdawg0931's method. However, I have heard heating with a "Hot air gun" is better than the way is using in Lawdawg0931's method step 7. Because in hot air gun method, with aluminium foil we can cover the areas that they do not require heating. Is that right?
Do you recommend that I use the Lawdawg0931's method, but instead of step 7, remove the heat sinks and use hot air gun method?

2. What replacement would you suggest if Artic Silver thermal compound is not available? Can I use Silicon Paste?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: notrain on July 25, 2007, 08:49:00 AM

QUOTE(PersianGuy @ Jul 25 2007, 01:02 PM)

1. With Lawdawgs method you don't heat up the areas that don't need heating, since only the CPU and GPU will get hot, and that is where you want the heating up to take place. So no, don't use a heatgun.

2. I didn't use Arctic Silver 5, instead I used Arctiv Silver Ceramique, which is a silicon paste from Arctic Silver. In my opinion, the difference between different pastes is quite marginal (maybe 2K), so just use any silicon paste you can get. Just remember that using less paste is always better, meaning don't smother the Chip in paste. Just a veeeery thin coating of the die and you'll be fine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jimm120 on July 25, 2007, 02:27:00 PM

one question:

Can I just use all nylon washers instead? I'm gonna end up buying all the stuff form amazon.com and I really don't know how to search for the items and have just been provided with 3 links (for the bolts, for the nylon washers, and for the arctic silver).

So, can I just use the nylon washers or do I NEED metal washers?

If I need them, think you can search on amazon.com to see if they have them and link me to it? I really suck at searching for these items on amazon.com

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MarutiDriver on July 25, 2007, 02:41:00 PM

I'd use metal washers. I think plastic washers wouldn't stand the temperature cycle and would become brittle.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: peasofcrap on July 25, 2007, 03:35:00 PM

right now im on all nylon washers, ive been good about two weeks. im hoping it stays if it craps out ill try to find the metal ones again.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xavierz007 on July 25, 2007, 03:39:00 PM

does the thickness of the shim matter? I understand its being used as a heat spreader due to the multiple cores. I was thinking of using one of the fins on an old heatsink, they're copper, however they are thinner than 1mm that is referenced in the tutorial.. has anyone tried a <1 mm thick shim?

thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pricemeista33 on July 25, 2007, 03:59:00 PM

If there's anyone out there who needs part numbers...here you go. I know the bolts aren't hard to find but those friggin' washers can be a bit of a pain to find. Here are the parts for "Home Depot" in case someone needs them. These parts definitely worked for me and I have revived 3 X360's! Thankx to Lawdogg and everyone else who participated in all the topic discussions.
Go to this link here for the parts list:

http://forums.xbox-s...&...t&p=3986446

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Vfreitas on July 25, 2007, 06:51:00 PM

I also went to Home Depot for my parts, got those exact Nylon washers too. I also picked up my metal washers and screws there, here they are.

Machine Screw
Flat - Philips
5mm x 12mm
5
BL-I / 10-1 / 304
Steel / Zinc Plated
Dr# - 304 3 pcs
UPC - 030699803385

They ran out of 10mm but they work perfect because the flat head cones to the threads.

Flat Washer
5mm
5
Steel / Zinc Plated
BJ-C / 9-C / 606
DR#606 4 pcs
UPC - 030699363087

At my Home Depot they're all in drawers, you'll have to dig around and look for them. It took me along time to find them, but heres a tip.. you should only be looking in the drawers that say Metric on them.

They all came in small white baggies, not too sure if that will be the same at all stores though.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: shaunno on July 26, 2007, 07:16:00 AM

Big thanks to Lawdawg, my eggbox has been working with no prblems for about a 2 weeks now.
Also thanks to dvsone for supplying the Australian parts list

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: zuhaib_s on July 26, 2007, 08:53:00 AM

man this is hopeless. everythin g seems to be working now except the fact there is no video or sound. this sux, finally got rid of any sort of red lights but still no luck. dunno what i did wrong

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 26, 2007, 08:59:00 AM

QUOTE(zuhaib_s @ Jul 26 2007, 10:29 AM)

man this is hopeless. everythin g seems to be working now except the fact there is no video or sound. this sux, finally got rid of any sort of red lights but still no luck. dunno what i did wrong

Is the GPU heatsink getting hot? Are you sure it's sitting on the die, making a good connection - spreading the AS5 evenly. Might experiment with the number of washers on the GPU side.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PersianGuy on July 26, 2007, 04:01:00 PM

Hi Again,

I read somewhere in this forum it's important that the washers outside diameter don't pass the cooper rings. Is that right? Will these washers make problem?

IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 26, 2007, 09:36:00 PM

QUOTE(PersianGuy @ Jul 26 2007, 05:37 PM)

Hi Again,

I read somewhere in this forum it's important that the washers outside diameter don't pass the cooper rings. Is that right? Will these washers make problem?

IPB Image

Not a good idea, you can see in the picture on the right - it overlaps the traces. There is also a connection point (probably a test point) that is unprotected by the normal film on motherboards. I would find smaller diameter washers. Not worth shorting something out....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on July 27, 2007, 05:03:00 AM

QUOTE(Skyline_GTR @ Jul 27 2007, 05:42 AM)

the washer that faces the motherboard should be nyon right?...or is it ok metal

nylon should be on the motherboard on both sides

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: b3v4n on July 27, 2007, 05:44:00 AM

My console died again last night after Lawdawg's method had fixed it for over 6 weeks. I just got checkerboard freeze after checkerboard freeze, and then 3rlod soon after (not checked the error message yet).

I'll crack it open again and see if I can sort it temporarily, but I've more or less resigned myself to the fact I'll have to buy a new and rely on the new three-year warranty to sort it out down the line.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: shniper9 on July 27, 2007, 09:24:00 AM

Could anybody recommend a product similar to AS5, as it's impossible to find in my small Canadian town? Also, would it be OK to use plastic washers, rather than the nylon/fiber as those aren't available to me either? Thx...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: HurricaneJesus on July 27, 2007, 09:35:00 AM

Try Canada Computers.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Murc on July 28, 2007, 11:22:00 AM

QUOTE(shniper9 @ Jul 27 2007, 11:00 AM)

Use amazon, I bought some artic silver 5 for like 12 bucks (including shipping).
I wouldn't recommend plastic....since the 360 gets hot....and I'm not sure at what temp those plastic washers would begin to melt.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ImxVaDeR on July 28, 2007, 02:59:00 PM

where online can I get the screws and washers? Please include links if possible, I want to order everything online.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: three_60 on July 28, 2007, 03:11:00 PM

"awdawg0931" what if the washers touches each other!! i mean the washer of GPU and washer of CPU? cuz i didnt fined smaller?
thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PersianGuy on July 28, 2007, 04:06:00 PM

QUOTE(three_60 @ Jul 29 2007, 01:17 AM)

"awdawg0931" what if the washers touches each other!! i mean the washer of GPU and washer of CPU? cuz i didnt fined smaller?
thanks

See post #633. I think it will help

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JohnSK64 on July 29, 2007, 08:01:00 AM

im just about ready to go with lawdawgs method because from what i read it sounds less complicated and reversible. However i need to know exactly what i need to purchase in terms of washers bolts etc i also need the measurements and quantity and it would be brilliant if someone else from the UK could let me know where they bought their gear. Im really desperate to get my 360 working again so plz help

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 29, 2007, 11:28:00 AM

I got these from b&q mate,

5mm x0.8x10 machine screws EAN: 5020789069918 (8 in pack)
Flat Washers Bright Zinc Plated M5 (L)60mm Pack - EAN: 5020789064968

All in all, about 3 quid.

I used 1 metal washer underneath and 2 on top, it's been sweet for about 1 week now, only had 1 freeze and that was down to insufficient cooling, which i've fixed now.

Good luck mate,

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JohnSK64 on July 29, 2007, 02:29:00 PM

QUOTE(nitram100 @ Jul 29 2007, 07:04 PM)

Dont you need artic silver thermal compound (i have no idea what that is or where to get that), and fiber washers? and thanks very much btw m8 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Vfreitas on July 29, 2007, 10:00:00 PM

Damn it.

After a few days of greatness I'm starting to get artifacts but no freezing.

A sign that cooling mods need to be done? Should I tweak the heatsinks a bit?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 30, 2007, 06:30:00 AM

QUOTE(Vfreitas @ Jul 30 2007, 05:00 AM)

Damn it.

After a few days of greatness I'm starting to get artifacts but no freezing.

A sign that cooling mods need to be done? Should I tweak the heatsinks a bit?

Happened to me aswell mate, what i did to make sure it was cooling that was the problem was i put my 360 next to my pc and placed one of the case fans from my PC directly on top of the GPU and it worked perfectly, the GPU was nearly cold to touch, 5 minutes after i took the case fan off the GPU the 360 froze, so i'm now preparing my 360 case to mount my DVD drive on the outside of the case so that i can permantley place a fan on the GPU and a little one on the side of the CPU heatsink.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: churchwin88 on July 30, 2007, 08:59:00 AM

from lowes i used the parts #138433 and 138319 they didnt have the nylon washers so i went to menards and bought some fibre washers the part # is 87722. they were 3/16 x 3/8 so far its still running 45 mins in with them. thought that might help some people who couldnt fine ones from lowes.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 30, 2007, 11:07:00 AM

QUOTE(nitram100 @ Jul 30 2007, 07:30 AM)

I would love to see some pics of your finished product if possible. Alot of people end up needing additional cooling mods after the X clamp removal. This could be one alternative. Sounds promising.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on July 30, 2007, 02:40:00 PM

Hey Lawdawg, i plan to do this mod next weekend, need to buy a dremel tool first (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Here is the thread where i got the idea from, it has some pics aswell about half way down the page,

http://forums.llamma.com/viewtopic.php?t=9...sc&start=30

I think i'm going to buy a 2.5mm DC socket, affix it somewhere on the case and attach the internal fans to it, so i can use a seperate plug for the fans, so as to not stress the 360 PSU too much, that thing gets hot enough as it is!

I'll post some more detailed pics once i've finished my version of this mod (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

This post has been edited by nitram100: Jul 30 2007, 09:43 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: chris1712 on July 30, 2007, 03:34:00 PM

Wow great method Lawdawg.

My launch day 360 died a death last night, and is now up and running (4 hours so far!)!! Thanks so much for the great info. I thought id give back to the community for my (currently!) working method using UK available parts.

All from B&Q.

Machine Screws: Pan Headed 5mm 0.8mmx10mm x8 # || Part No. AVF-069918
Flat Washers : 5mm Metal x60 (8 used)|| Part No. AVF-064968
Washer USS : 6mm Nylon x8|| Part No. AVF-034923

And an awesome diagram of how i used them.

(IMG:http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/3945/xclampms9.jpg)

Feel free to add this to the previous posted PDF's/Docs, it would really be helpful for all us UK members!

This post has been edited by chris1712: Jul 30 2007, 10:41 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jimm120 on July 30, 2007, 06:17:00 PM

Hey, I can't find the parts where I am so I'm ordering them from Amazon.com

I don't want to give the links because I fear others will buy all the available parts but whatever. I need clarification.

Ok...anyway, I would just like to know if someone can confirm the CORRECT parts.

1 - The Screws. I believe these are them.
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Metric-Slo...0313&sr=1-1

2 - Nylon # 10 washers
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_/104-334...o.y=0&Go=Go
----I'm really confused on which to buy. There seems to be many thicknesses. Which one do I take? .02 thickness, .062 thickness, or something else?

3 - Flat Metal Washers
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_/104-334...o.y=0&Go=Go
---Are the correct Metal Washers in that list? If not, then I guess I can always just buy all nylon washers and use only the nylon washers.

ANY HELP will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jimm120 on July 31, 2007, 07:56:00 AM

Sorry, the links do not seem to work.

1 - Screws. I believe these are the screws. I can get teh "cheese headed" or the "pan headed". I don't think it matters though...right? 18 - 8 m5 screws

<a href="http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/38mfbb" target="_blank">http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/38mfbb</a>

2 - Nylon Washers # 10 - I just don't know the size. Some have different dimensions. Which should I choose? There are more sizes but I only linked those two.

<a href="http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/2lfxfh" target="_blank">http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/2lfxfh</a>
<a href="http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/2o9xle" target="_blank">http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/2o9xle</a>

3 - Flat Metal Washers. Again, another thing which I don't know the size of. Which dimensions is appropriate?

<a href="http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/3xeohc" target="_blank">http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/3xeohc</a>

Please, if you can help identifying the correct parts.

Thank you in advance for responding.

The site seems to have a problem posting links. The above links were cut off and the tinyurl links aren't working. BUT I'll try to post them again.
But my main concern is the "size" of the washers (thickness, etc)
LINKS HERE
LINKS HERE - JUST erase the SPACE inbetween the Colon, the period, and the last slash.

http: //tinyurl. com/ 3xeohc
http: //tinyurl. com/ 2o9xle
http: //tinyurl. com/ 2lfxfh
http: //tinyurl. com/ 38mfbb

This post has been edited by jimm120: Jul 31 2007, 03:05 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JohnSK64 on July 31, 2007, 01:20:00 PM

I was wondering if someone could tell me where to and how much artic silver i should apply e.g a thin layer over the GPU or whatever . I just havnt used it before and this is all new to me.
any help would be appreciated.
Jimm in the first few pages of this thread there are diffferent part numbers from some U.S stores and canadian stores I think, I dont know if this helps you, Im pretty much at the same stage u are although I havnt got nylon washers i have some nylonmaterial which im just going to cut to size.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jimm120 on July 31, 2007, 03:04:00 PM

thanks for trying to help.

I guess I'll just have to order these products blindly and hope that they are what I need.

This is what I'm ordering (I'm ordering tonight, so if you see something wrong in this list, tell me, mm'kay?)

1 - Artic Silver 5 3.6 grams

2 - Nylon Flat Washer #10 .195" ID x .437" OD x .02" Thick (Pack of 100)

3 - Stainless Steel 18-8 Metric Slotted Pan Head Machine Screw M5-0.8 x 10mm Length (Pack of 25)

4 - S/S Metric Flat Washer DIN-125A M3 3.2mm ID x 7.0mm OD x .5mm Thick (Pack of 25)

I'm buying the 100 pack of the Nylon washers in case the metal washers do not work (too big/too small).

Still can't believe I never got a straight answer here about my many inquiries. I've wanted to know if using all Nylon washers was do-able...never got a concrete answer. Wanted to know the specific measurement (such as .195 x .437 x .02) and could get an answer either. But whatever. I understand people are busy and that they might not know the answers.

Well, wish me luck guys. Gonna order them to go to a relatives in New York. From there, I'll have them ship it to me (paying another $20 - $30..guh) here where I live.

Thanks for any help anyone might have given me. Hopefully in a month and a half's time (I'm guessing this is when I'll get my parts here), I'll have a working Xbox 360.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: slamdunkfunkk on July 31, 2007, 03:19:00 PM

jimm120

Where are you? I'll send you the bits gratis if you have to wait that long!!!

Slam

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jimm120 on July 31, 2007, 04:46:00 PM

oh I'm far. I live in the Caribbean right now (Dominican Republic).

I'm gonna have to order it off amazon to be sent to my sister's house in New York (1 - 2 weeks max). Then, she'll have to pay (I'll get the money to her after a while) like $11 - $25 (not sure) to send it USPS here. USPS has fast shipping, but once that package touches this country, lol, It'll be a long wait. A month more of waiting. Oh, and I know that my sister or brother won't send me my package right away...so the package will just sit there in their house for a while definitely.

That is how I got my month to month and a half wait.

I'll PM you in case you're serious though...

...just sent the PM

This post has been edited by jimm120: Jul 31 2007, 11:58 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Strag0 on July 31, 2007, 05:30:00 PM

Would this mod be recommended to someone who doesn't have the 3ROD? I've got a August 2006 core model I barely play for two reasons, it's got a exploit friendly kernel and I'm nervous about it dieing on me. So, I planned on going into the system and removing the E-Fuse resistor so I can update the kernel to play newer games and figured while I was in there I might as well do this if it would keep my system from dieing.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Vfreitas on July 31, 2007, 09:03:00 PM

To go back to my last post.. the artifacts have gone after a few minor tweaks.

I played for quite some time, left it on overnight even, it's back to working fine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on July 31, 2007, 09:33:00 PM

QUOTE(jimm120 @ Jul 31 2007, 04:04 PM)

Still can't believe I never got a straight answer here about my many inquiries. I've wanted to know if using all Nylon washers was do-able...never got a concrete answer. Wanted to know the specific measurement (such as .195 x .437 x .02) and could get an answer either. But whatever.

I think this one would be better suited for the mod... http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Metric-Phi...0313&sr=1-1
you would need to counter sink the metal case somewhat, but it would sit better. As far as all nylon washers (2mm)....should work fine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: Aug 1 2007, 04:34 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: g0dM@n on July 31, 2007, 11:02:00 PM

I'm desperate... I did not browse the net to look for a fix, so I took it upon myself to try this here:
(IMG:http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/godman114/360openCooling2.jpg)

I also added a 4" deskfan to the power supply.

It fixed my freezing/RLOD problem, and ran strong for a few days at a few hrs of GoW gaming. In any case, I'm back to square one and getting freezing and/or RLOD again.

So... I'm going to try this fix, but I live in the US and would like to know where some americans were able to find the necessary parts.

I have a Home Depot by me if that helps... has anyone gone there and found everything there?

Or... I wouldn't mind ordering from Amazon as I have a PRIME account (free 2-day shipping).

I already have my own tools and several tubes of TIM (as well as AS5), so I just need the hardware really.

THANKS in advance.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jimm120 on August 01, 2007, 07:18:00 AM

Damn. I already bought the stuff last night. I ended up buying the Pan headed instead. It is still in "open order" but I don't know if I can switch stuff out.

Hopefully the pan headed aren't too bad and aren't much of a problem.

-Nylon ANSI Flat Washer #10 Narrow .203" ID x .406" OD x .04" Thick (Pack of 25)
-Nylon Flat Washer #10 .200" ID x .437" OD x .062" Thick (Pack of 25)
-Stainless Steel 18-8 Metric Slotted Pan Head Machine Screw M5-0.8 x 10mm Length (Pack of 25)
-S/S Metric Flat Washer DIN-125A M5 5.3mm ID x 1.0mm OD x 1mm Thick (Pack of 25)
-Arctic Silver 5 3.6 grams

That is what I bought. Bought the metal washers like that for the hell of it. Might be able to use it, might not be able to use it. I couldn't find one with the right measurements. As for the Nylon washers, I bought 2 kinds...just in case. One of them (the ANSI one) seems to be smaller. And the Pan headed screws. Sucks i couldn't get the Lawdawg recommended screws (cause, his word is god:). Too late now.

Well, just posting the measurements in case someone sees this in the future. There are tons of "nylon washer # 10" and tons of "5 mm flat metal washer" ...only thing not too vague in the tutorial was the bolts (which I screwed up lol...but only the "head").

Well, I just had to order the things now. I just couldn't wait. The Fall lineup is coming and it is good. like this, I should have my parts by the beginning of September and ready to game on with Bioshock, Blue Dragon, and Eternal Sonata. Plus, there are tons more games but I'll get them (Halo 3/Half LIfe orange box/Quake wars) in December, when I buy myself a new 360 for online gaming.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on August 01, 2007, 08:58:00 AM

@jimm120

The pan heads will most likely be fine, actually - I gave wrong info. If you go through the bottom metal case (RBJTech's method) then you would need the other screws & counter sink those holes. I've done both, and have listed parts for both (I gave RBJTech part #'s I used for his tutorial that don't require drilling out the heatsinks). I got confused....lack of sleep (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sleeping.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: chelseaboy36 on August 04, 2007, 07:54:00 AM

Does anybody know where to get all the parts from online in the UK? Thanks in advance.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Ritchdog on August 04, 2007, 02:22:00 PM

ive been trying to fix my 360 for weeks but havent had any luck. right now im switching between errors 0020 and 1020 with less than 1/16 of a turn and it is only when i turn a certain screw. I cant seem to find any middle ground that will get it working. ive even added new paste multiple times. any suggestions?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: qsahmed on August 05, 2007, 12:28:00 AM

I was looking to try the lawdawgs method on my console having error 0102 but didnt find any washers.

1. Will my console work if I remove the x-clamps and clean the HS,CPU and GPU then apply AS5 and then again put the x-clamps back and then run the console for 5mins without the fan????

Or is it necessary to replace the x-clmaps, I was looking to check that Will my console work with this method?

2. when I did the above work i ealized my GPU HD was cool and the CPU HS was really hot when I turn the console on, y is it so?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on August 05, 2007, 01:06:00 AM

QUOTE(qsahmed @ Aug 5 2007, 01:28 AM)

it will eventually rlod again if you leave the xclamps on...

best to remove them once and for all

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: qsahmed on August 05, 2007, 01:24:00 AM

But mine never show the Green Light.
When i turn on the console i shows 3 RLOD from the begining.
I mean I never got green lights after i tried the above repair.

This post has been edited by qsahmed: Aug 5 2007, 08:25 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on August 05, 2007, 10:53:00 AM

QUOTE(qsahmed @ Aug 5 2007, 02:24 AM)

But mine never show the Green Light.
When i turn on the console i shows 3 RLOD from the begining.
I mean I never got green lights after i tried the above repair.

It sounds like the heatsinks are not making good connection on the die's...with it red lighting right away. Check the imprint in the AS5 to make sure its sitting well. Then maybe play with the number of washers, or the thickness.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: qsahmed on August 05, 2007, 11:50:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Aug 5 2007, 10:23 PM)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I didnt tried the lawdawg0931 method becoz of the washers.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I just removed the x-clamps and then cleaned the CPU,GPU and both HS and then applied the AS5 and then put the x-clamps back.
When i turned the console ON it showed 3 Red Lights and after a minute or 2 i got the overheating problem.
So I think there is good contact b/w HS,AS5 and CPU.
The GPU HS didnt got hot but the CPU HS was very very hot.!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)

The question i want to ask is
Will This work:???
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif) removing the x-clamps and then clean the CPU,GPU and both HS and then appy the AS5 and then put the x-clamps back and heat without the fan.

I just want to know if my console can be repaired(using Lawdawgs) even after the above fix failed????

please help me

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on August 05, 2007, 02:37:00 PM

I would bet that the reason it failed is because you put the X clamps back on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Those are the problem to begin with. They flex the mobo about the CPU & GPU which comprimises the BGA solder joints. Putting them back on just continues the problem they created in the first place. By all means....YES. Get rid of the X clamps all together. Look into cooling mods as well.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DCK82 on August 08, 2007, 08:04:00 AM

I just used the Lawdawg method on a friends 360 which had 3RLOD, and it now runs perfectly. This console had previously been sent away to a compnay that fixes 360's and they had given it the heat gun treatment, which worked for a couple months, then he got the 3RLOD again, so I offered to do the x-clamp replacement, and it works fine again.

I used M5 pan headed machine screws, 10mm length.
1 metal washer and 1 nylon washer each side of the motherboard (M5 screw -> metal washer -> nylon washer -> motherboard -> nylon washer -> metal washer -> heatsink)

I initially didn't tighten the screws tightly into the heatsinks, I just turned them by hand lightly untill they were not loose, I then turned the 360 on without the fans, got 3RLOD immediately, and I let it sit and overheat (2 lights), once it overheated, I let it sit for a further 2-3mins still on. I then turned the 360 off. I then tightened up all 8 screws, not too overtight, but fairly tight, and I then let it sit and cool down for about 30mins. I then fitted the motherboard back into the casing with the fans attached and tried it before fixing the the whole case back together, and it worked perfectly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on August 09, 2007, 06:37:00 AM

If the 3 red lights returned after nearly 4 weeks of perfect gameplay, what would this indicate?

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: godfather927 on August 09, 2007, 09:27:00 AM

QUOTE(nitram100 @ Aug 9 2007, 07:37 AM)

If the 3 red lights returned after nearly 4 weeks of perfect gameplay, what would this indicate?

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I have this problem also after doing the x-clamp replacement, except mine was after a week or so. I tried tightening and loosening the screws and re-heating it up without the fans but so far nothing. I wonder if getting it reflowed now will even be worth it since it might be damaged beyond repair. Any chance I might be able to fix this myself or is it time to find someone to reflow it. Any thoughts?

This post has been edited by godfather927: Aug 9 2007, 04:38 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on August 09, 2007, 10:23:00 AM

Thanks for the reply mate, this morning i loosened the GPU screws slightly and did a quick overheat, red lights have now gone and it's been running gears of war for about 4 hours straight. I'm hoping the GPU screws were just a little too tight before causing a slight warp of the board and that this loosening has now fixed it, there shouldn't be any warping now because the screws are pretty damn loose now.

How many different washer combos have you tried? it took me about 6 trys before getting it right, i've got 1 metal washer underneath and 2 on top.

While i'm here i may aswell ask, i'm going to be fixing fans to both the GPU and CPU heatsinks sometime this week, what would be the best way to fix the fans to the heatsinks? is there a special type of glue for this kind of application? would superglue suffice? I'm thinking not!

Thanks,

This post has been edited by nitram100: Aug 9 2007, 05:27 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: godfather927 on August 09, 2007, 04:10:00 PM

Ive tried again with loosening and tightening the screws many different times with different combos of washers and still nothing. I'm looking now to see if trying a reflow service is worth it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: qsahmed on August 11, 2007, 03:33:00 PM

I didnt get my console to work atleast once. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I tried the lawdawgs method but got 3RLOD all the time, i tried overheating it but when i heat it for 3mins aftert the 2 red light my power goes orange on the PSU?? and the GPU and CPU starts cooling.

In the whole process my GPU HS didnt get hot compared to the CPU HS!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Can anyone help me out what or where the problem lye in my case.

error code 0102.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: uberd0gg on August 13, 2007, 04:09:00 AM

Got mine working (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

At first it ran for 14 minutes before overheating, so I opened her up, added a little more arctic silver, forced an overheat, then tightened the screws.
That worked and its been running fine for over 4 hours at a time for the last 2 days.

A couple of things though:
1. I couldn't get hold of any nylon washers so I covered regular washers with insulating tape instead. It works, but I'd rather have the recommended nylon/fibre ones. If anyone knows where to get them in the UK I'd appreciate some help.
2. I used arctic silver céramique instead of arctic silver 5. That'll be ok, right?
3. I've installed a whisper fan for extra cooling, but I'd like to install an XCM add-on fan too. Where exactly are the 5v solder points under the mobo? I did a search but couldn't find any posts with n00b-proof images.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hacktek00 on August 13, 2007, 11:15:00 AM

QUOTE(uberd0gg @ Aug 13 2007, 04:09 AM)

Power Sources by RDC -> http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=613160

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nyug3n on August 15, 2007, 01:20:00 AM

Can someone please post Home Depot or ACE part numbers for the parts that I need? I read the tutorial and it only mentions Lowes part #'s and they do not match with the Home depot system.

Any help would do.

Thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PimpKillaJ on August 15, 2007, 06:32:00 PM

Update: I said that I probably not would not post unless it died, well it did. I did however play the crap out of it for a month and a half.

It froze while I was downloading the Bio Shock demo. I reset it and it froze on start up. I let it sit until the morning when it loaded perfectly. Next I tried to download it again but instead told it to find mine because apparenly it finished. The screen then went black and I heard an audible crackling noise for two or three seconds and then it froze. So I reset it and went into my demos and deleted it. Strangle hold was downloading when I checked my active downloads and froze at about 35%. When I reset is when the three red lights came back.

I opened it up and everything still looked good so I went ahead and cleaned the heat sinks and applied new thermal paste. It did not work when I fired it up like when I fixed it the first time (the overheat was not necessary). After overheating it and letting it sit with a fan cooling it down it still did not work. Loosening the bolts got the green lights to circle but no picture. Reset and three red lights.

Finally, I loosened all the screws and tightened them so that they were just starting to get tight and bingo I had picture and everything! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) When I put the case on and the lights were back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grr.gif)

I have been messing with the screws a lot and cant get it to work. Now the tailsmmon fans only light for less than a second and for the first time I have error code 0002- Network Interface Problem. Any ideas?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: saikopanda on August 16, 2007, 12:59:00 PM

just wanted to check in

worked fine on my german xbox360. found out about your tutorial by googling, trying to find a fix for the 3lod.

so i went out to (BAUHAUS, for all my german mates) buy the bolts and the washers. worked fine. but i had to cut some holes into the metal shield (bottom piece), coz the bolts i used were a bit too thick (like 2mm)

works fine so far. my friend s playing dead rising right now

i'll report back in a few days.

so long

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Simran2214 on August 16, 2007, 01:32:00 PM

Hey,

I did the X-Clamp Replacement and my console no longer has the 3RLoD, but the only problem now is that every once in a while my console will reset randomly. I also did RBJTech's fan shroud cooling mod. I just was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on what might be causing this problem.

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PimpKillaJ on August 16, 2007, 03:07:00 PM

Well since I was out of options I went ahead and redid the heatsink paste again. The fans are working again but I can't seem to shake error code 0020. I have done everything just like I did to get it to work for the month and a half.

Any ideas?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: csheyang on August 16, 2007, 10:39:00 PM

Hi all I could find was 12 mm machine screws (with the cone-shaped head) that looks like this:
http://www.amazon.com/M5-80X12-Slotted-Mac...t/dp/B000NEAH5G

Will this be ok? The cone-shaped head might be a problem right?
For the washers the standard M5 washers are ok right?
Also we don't need nuts right?

I am currently in Toronto Canada, I even called the specialist shop that carries all the screws u can think of but they don't even have them in 10mm..

Thanks for all the help!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PimpKillaJ on August 17, 2007, 03:05:00 AM

Lawdawg, (and everyone) I was wondering since mine broke back down after a month and a half, have many others had this experience. I have read every single page of your forum and RBJtech's as well and would really like to know if many of the people (you have had further contact with) have had the system fail again.

Also, have many people been able to resurrect the system after the second failure- and what they have done to fix it? Has anybody tried RBJtech's method second?

I guess my biggest problem is likely the two audible (through the speakers) sizzle noises that lasted for three seconds apiece. I would really like to know if anybody else has encountered this and had any luck (or finally just went and got raped for a second one).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: saikopanda on August 17, 2007, 09:51:00 AM

alright, I have been playing for a while now. I was experiencing some freezes after a couple of minutes of playing. thanks to the holes I drilled into the metal shield, I was able to adjust the bolts easily, without taking out the mainboard everytime I wanted to screw the bolts a little tighter. after I thought the bolts should be tightened enough, I still got freezes. I went ahead and chose a bigger screwdriver, which gave me the opp to tighten the bolts even a bit more.

result: perfect. no freezes, everything works fine for now

btw: i asked a online-repairshop wether or not they are using the x clamp replacement or the heatgun method to resolve the 3lod. they told me, the xclamp replacement is crap and nothing else works than putting new thermal paste on the dies and reheating the soldering points.

well, who's laughing now? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on August 17, 2007, 03:53:00 PM

QUOTE(saikopanda @ Aug 17 2007, 10:51 AM)

They told me the xclamp replacement is crap and nothing else works than putting new thermal paste on the dies and reheating the soldering points.

Well, actually the best possible choice seems to be a professional reflow service coupled with the X-clamp removal.....

@PimpKillaJ
I have a couple 360's that were problem children. Constant adjustments would yield a few more days, before the 3rlod would return. A reflow service took care of these 360's for me - a more permanent fix...so it seems (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: three_60 on August 17, 2007, 04:30:00 PM

"PimpKillaJ" same here fixed it for like 1 month and then 3red lights came back !!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grr.gif)
it seems like x-clump replacment is a temprory fix..cuz after the second 3 red lights came i tried many many mothods to resolve this problem, but no cant do!!!!
anyways it seems like reballing the chip again would fix this problem....hehehe its easy to say it, but who will do it for you !!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ascalon on August 17, 2007, 04:52:00 PM

If you guys would just do a google search, it's not hard to find a reflow service, online or local. Type reflow "x box 360", you'll see some info and a couple of sites that offer the service (mailing your box required). Type "computer reflow service" followed by the city and state you live in, then check the google maps search. Look through the relevant matches, give them a call. If they offer reflow service, then great. If they don't, then likely they will know another company nearby that does, if you simply ask. Not all that difficult...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SSinisterSS on August 17, 2007, 05:23:00 PM

Just dropping by tp report that my 360 that had the 3rlod that I repaired using Lawdawgs method is still operational and running perfect. I did the repair on May 8th, 2007.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on August 17, 2007, 06:04:00 PM

QUOTE(three_60 @ Aug 17 2007, 05:30 PM)

it seems like reballing the chip again would fix this problem....hehehe its easy to say it, but who will do it for you !!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

You guys are missing the link in my sig... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) PM Bojngles

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on August 18, 2007, 12:52:00 AM

mine finally died today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
i got some screen glitches... lines all over hte screen and then i got the 3rl... oh well... maybe is time for a new xbox.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Omnix1299 on August 18, 2007, 01:24:00 AM

i just wanted to say Thank you lawdawg your tutorial was a GREAT help, not quite as easy as RBJtech's but unfortunatley the parts were a tad harder to find, and i had NO problem finding ANYTHING in your tutorial at ALL from Ace Hardware it was REALLY REALLY easy! thank you SO much as i am in college and live on my own.. and just cannot afford a new xbox 360. if i was a girl id say i love you but rather ill say this... you kick lots of ass... plus half.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PimpKillaJ on August 18, 2007, 01:31:00 AM

@ ascalon (and everyone) Thanks for the info. I decided to pick up an premium 360 with a manufacture date of 07-06-2007 and HDMI support as well as the better internal parts and such. Well, at least I hope, this one will likely never be opened by myself.

Anyhow, I am still interested in fixing my launch system. Could you please specify exactly what I would ask to be reflow(ed) and also what this might cost. I might just sit on the sidelines a little while though. Can anybody speak to the duration of this fix alone or in conjunction with Lawdawgs or any other method?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kr0nikk on August 18, 2007, 01:35:00 AM

fixed mine july 4th and im still running

hopefully it stays that way

but it does get extremely hot and the discs are hot when i take them out, that normal?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ascalon on August 18, 2007, 01:59:00 AM

Ask to have the GPU reflowed, and ask them if they think it needs to be reballed. Reflow is universally $50, and less than $100 for reflow + reballing. Just look here, and ask this guy about it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) .

http://www.xb360reflow.com/xbox360-xbox-ps2_003.htm

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Sidewinder007z on August 18, 2007, 04:38:00 PM

Well...I too was having the 3 Ring error.

My 360 was purchases 12/31/2005, and I really though I was going to be immune to everything.

Well that changed 5 days ago.....I tried the towel trick (yeah I know I should not have) and that worked for a few days.
When i saw this fix, it looked easy enough and i figured what the hell.

I did everything by the tutorial, except I did not replace the Xclamp on the video chip.
From what I understand, only my CPU is giving me problems, so i thought I would leave that alone.

Well first time firing it up, all was good. Did not have to towel trick to reflow the solder.

I put all the screws back in, and it has been running great from August 15th.

We'll see how she does!!!

Thanks for the awesome tutorial!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JAmerican on August 18, 2007, 07:01:00 PM

QUOTE(Omnix1299 @ Aug 18 2007, 03:24 AM)

Never attempted Lawdawg Tut but finding the parts for RBJTech's tut was very easy. You just have to look around. I listed the parts on my site for the MKIII mod which I highly recommend for anyone. It's basically RBJTech's and LawDawg's Tuts put together.

Here are the parts for it...

(IMG:http://jamerican.net/JJFiles/Xbox360/HeatsinkMod/heatsinkparts.jpg)

You can see my attempt here... http://www.jamerican.net/?p=48

JAmerican

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bruc3LeeRoy on August 18, 2007, 10:00:00 PM

hi what is the best way to take off the x-clamp!? I have no idea what tool to use please help thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kero on August 18, 2007, 11:09:00 PM

QUOTE(Bruc3LeeRoy @ Aug 19 2007, 05:00 AM)

hi what is the best way to take off the x-clamp!? I have no idea what tool to use please help thanks!

A small flat screw driver. Stick in from the side and turn it the direction so that it pushes the bottom clip down and out.

This post has been edited by kero: Aug 19 2007, 06:10 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kero on August 18, 2007, 11:24:00 PM

Just like to say thanks to all for this great forum thread.. Looks like ive sucessfully fixed my 3 rings of death problem using Lawdawg0931's method and advise throught the 46 pages.

Id just like to add a few comments that i thought should be highlighted:

The most important thing to understand when doing this is that you want the heat sink to be completly flush (flat) with the CPU and GPU. If its not then you will have problems.

By over tightening the heat sinks will bend and you will not get a nice even press. Too loose and you may not be contacting at all.

The process of getting it right can take some time and i found the best way is to undo all the bolts and check the artic silver print on the heat sinks. If you have a nice and even square imprint it will be good.

Also if you get 2 rings of death (the 2 left ones) then your CPU's heatsink is not mounted flush.

For those still getting the three rings of death - check your arctic silver imprint and just keep adjusting to you get it perfectly flush. Because if its slightly wrong it will keep overheating.

Good Luck.

This post has been edited by kero: Aug 19 2007, 06:32 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sachin on August 19, 2007, 11:49:00 AM

Hi,

I was getting the RROD @ startup for a month now. So, yesterday I decided to do the x-clamp fix + apply fresh arctic silver. I followed the guide perfectly and everything was well. Xbox 360 booted perfectly. However, whenever I tried (system was cooled down at this point) playing DIRT or Crackdown the system just froze after 5-10 mins of play. So, I switched to other games NHL 07, Halo 2, GRAW 2 and they worked for 5 hours straight (no breaks). But, then I tried DIRT once again and after 15 mins of play it froze. These are original dics, completely scratch free.

Anyone know whats causing this behaviour? I mean GRAW2 is just as graphics/cpu intensive as DIRT or crackdown so what makes these game freeze?

Some insight:
1. I didn't use the Arctic Silver as mentioned in the tut, but instead used "OCZ Ultra 5+ Silver Thermal Compound". <a href="http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/yaegvc" target="_blank">http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/yaegvc</a>

2. The CPU heatsink has a slight bend on its outer most leaf from contantly holding the heatsink to tighten the screws underneath etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

This post has been edited by sachin: Aug 19 2007, 06:53 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sachin on August 19, 2007, 12:16:00 PM

Sorry I couldn't edit the above post and the link was wrong.

Thermal paste link:
http://XS Filter - 110506 - 1/yaegvc

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: uragon on August 19, 2007, 05:01:00 PM

Well It took a few tries but I had it working at one point. The first attempt, after letting it overheat to fix itself, I tightened down the screws and put it back together. Tried to tuen it on but now 2 red lights flashing telling me its still overaheating. After taking it apart again I discovered the theremal paste was not getting good connection cause it looked like it boiled over so i removed the metal washer and left the nylon washer in their. Wowlaa go it to work. I was very exited about and plyed it for about an hour. no freezing for that solid hour of playing MLB2K7. After shutting it down I started it up again to make sure it was still working a to my relief it was still booting up and working. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
So the next morning I decided to play about 2 hours of MLB2K7 and everything was going good. until I turned it off and try to play it. It gave me the 1 RED LIGHT AND ERROR 74. Oh great I taught something came lose again, so I took it apart again. but everything seemed fined but I went ahaed and replaced the artic silver compound and put everything back together. after putting everything back together still GOT THE ERROR 74. Also google search tried to replace the AV Cable. No luck still got the ERROR 74.
So my question is does anyhow think the ERROR 74 was a result of the xclamp replacement procedure or was this just another error that just happen to come about. Has anyone run into this same problem. Thanks in advance for any help.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: KLoNe on August 19, 2007, 05:52:00 PM

Well, I've taken it apart and repaired my 360 3 times now, each time only lasting over night (repaired, working perfectly for a few hours of gametime, tested in the morning, freezes after about 15 mins then RROD).

Ok, mods I've done so far:

.: X-Clamp replacement.
.: Artic Silver applied.
.: Case Fan-shroud cut apart.
.: Heat-sink airflow separated and air tunnel taped down.
.: Thermal pads applied to Ram under GPU HS.
.: Thermal pads applied and small heat sinks fixed to other Ram on top-side of board.
.: Thermal pads applied to bottom side Ram, causing bottom metal to be in contact for use of large heatsink.

What else on earth could I do?

I'm guessing it's not a heat problem and more of a dry joint problem. Could someone please point me in the direction of where I should be looking at on the board for the dry solder joint(s)? is it the bottom side Ram which is the main problem? I will try freezing the chips to see if I can see any movement.

Cheers.

This post has been edited by KLoNe: Aug 20 2007, 01:06 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Omnix1299 on August 19, 2007, 07:57:00 PM

QUOTE(JAmerican @ Aug 19 2007, 02:01 AM)

it Wasnt just that i coulodnt find the necessary peices for RBJtech's but also that his tut was somewhat confusing to me i suppose? it's just that i didnt have the tools necessary to drill the holes bigger in the casing for his method. with lawdawg's it still wories me that its not flush but its STILL working so yay!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: JAmerican on August 20, 2007, 03:05:00 AM

QUOTE(Omnix1299 @ Aug 19 2007, 09:57 PM)

Oh I get what your saying now. I know people with such tools so I didn't consider that. Yea, if you can't get a drill, then RBJTech's heatsink mods are pretty much useless. If you ever get your hands on a drill and a 5mm drill bit. Grab your 360 chassis and drill all 8 small holes where your CPU/GPU clamps attach to. That's all the drilling you'll need to do.

JAmerican

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: steveranda on August 20, 2007, 08:18:00 PM

Ok..So hopefully somone can offer some advice to help with the 3 Rings of Death. So I got the 3 rings of death a month ago or so and I am getting the 0102 error. So I went ahead and followed Lawdaws tutorial and I had fixed my 360. A few days later I again saw a freeze and again no longer was my 360 working as I was getting the 3 rings of death again (0102) . So I opened it up again and followed the tutorial again and made sure everything was tight. Again worked 1 night and again not working...So I think my problem may be the parts I am using. I went to Ace Hardware in California to get all the parts Lawdawg says to get. The 1st thing I noticed with the parts I got from Ace is that the screws I got were actually only allowing like 7mm of thread bc of the screw tip..So I went with the 15mm screw which gives me aroud 12 mm of actual screw thread. So I have 1 metal washer and 1 nylon washer on the bottom of the motherboard and 1 nylon and 1 metal washer on top of the motherboard screwed into the heatsinks. I applied the good artic silver paste and I can see it is distrubuting evenly.
My only thought is that with the 2 washers below and 2 washers above, maybe the contact with the cpu and gpu are not all that great with the heatsinks. I bought the size of washers that Lawdawg mentions. I think I may just toss the nylon washer and go with just the metal ones. Anyone have any better ideas or any suggestios?
Please as I am dead in the water again!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: brandencads on August 21, 2007, 09:01:00 AM

Hey guys. So I successfully did the X-Clamp mod to my 360 which was OCCASIONALLY giving me the 3 red lights. It mainly happened during gaming, specifically Forza 2 and Bioshock, after a couple minutes of game play (10-15 minutes).
Anyway, I bought all the parts at a local Ace Hardware and noticed when I got home that the nylon washers were too small to fit onto the bolts I bought for the heat sinks. What I did was take a pair of scissors and cut one side of the nylon washer in half, then kind of thread the nylon washer onto the bolt. This worked great for me. I replaced the thermal paste with AS5 and after putting the heat sinks back on, put a glossy paper "shroud" over the GPU which is taped to the air duct.
One thing I did fuck up is when I was taking the X clamp off on the CPU, I accidentally removed one of those microscopic resistors directly under where the clamp was on the CPU. I found it, luckily, and put it on a piece of tape in case something goes wrong in the future...
I played for Forza 2 online for roughly an hour last night with no problems at all. Hopefully it will be smooth sailing in the future, if not I will post back here with my results.

Thanks to the scene and Lawdawg and his methods lol- PEACE (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lucifur2k on August 22, 2007, 10:10:00 PM

ok i have tried the x clamp replacement and for the first two weeks after it worked sweet as but now no matter what amount of washers i use or how tight i do them up i get ring of death. my original problem was that it froze
after about five mins of playing. then eventually gave me the 0120 error. so any ideas what i should try next because i dont think it wise to try towel or heat gun.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: steveranda on August 23, 2007, 12:48:00 AM

I am in the same boat as Lucifer2k..No matter what combination of bolts and nuts I use, my xbox will only work for a few minutes and then I will get the pixelation on the screen and the screen freezes. I also saw an all green screen. Very strange..Is there anything else I can do, or should I just go buy another system?
But the 1st time I did the xclamp replacement method from lawdawg my xbox worked for a few weeks..
So not sure what is going on. I am also getting the 0102 error

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Omnix1299 on August 23, 2007, 07:24:00 AM

Theres one fatal flaw in Lawdawg's method and it's in that it usually requires a heating method to fix the damages. the main problem people run into with this is that some have heated and reheated so much hat the BGA solder points are so hard that the heatup does nothing, leaving lawdawg's method unusable, but try RBJtech's method. im a user of Lawdawg's method and its worked GREAT so far, for about the week ive had but its been nonstop solid gaming this whole week which makes me hopeful. don't be afraid to do the heatup on your system, because most dont want to invest in the Reflow

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: BakedGoat on August 24, 2007, 12:04:00 AM

Tried this fix after my 360 bombed on me. Gotta say it worked great. I've got a few friends with 3ROD and I'll definately suggest this fix if they cant get a warranty fix.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nero2 on August 28, 2007, 12:27:00 PM

I tried this fixed ~8 months ago and it worked perfectly, up until this weekend. My 360 hasn't 3RLODed yet, but it is starting to overheat and freeze. Tonight I'm going to take the system apart, and go through steps 7 and 8 again (and maybe re-apply some AS3). I really want to play Tiger Woods, so fingers crossed.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TyphoidHippo on August 30, 2007, 12:59:00 PM

I can not believe this actually worked....but it did. Fantastic. Thanks a lot!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: AncientTV on August 30, 2007, 04:42:00 PM

I'm a little hazy on how I go about removing the Thermal paste that is already on the chip. Do I just go at it with a cloth and rubbing alcohol?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on August 31, 2007, 09:35:00 AM

QUOTE(AncientTV @ Aug 30 2007, 05:42 PM)

I'm a little hazy on how I go about removing the Thermal paste that is already on the chip. Do I just go at it with a cloth and rubbing alcohol?

They make a cleaner: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm
But a Q-tip & alcohol worked fine for me....just not too wet. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xen0cide on September 04, 2007, 01:53:00 PM

First of all, after reading/studying this method (and other fixes) i gotta say, lawdawg and rjbtech came up with some theoretically solid methods, with awesome results to boot! In applying lawdag's method myself I'm havin mixed results, and I'm hoping to get a few pointers from you experienced folks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

So far i've done the following:
- 12V fan fix
- Thermal Paste replacement
- X clamp removal (lawdawg method)

The configuration I did for the fix (screws and washers) are:
heatsink
1 5mm Metal Washer
1 5mm Nylon Washer
Motherboard
1 5mm Spring Washer
12mm stainless steel screw

After finishing the above configuration, heated up for 2 minutes (fan off), 2rol, cooled, then testing, my 360 booted up but froze on the title screen. And then after 2 more power ons, 3rol again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (1020)

So i tried tightening down the screws some more, then it got to the dashboard fine.. but 5 mins in > screen artifacs, powered off and on again.. the dreaded 3 lights came on again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (1020)

Then I redid the thermal paste on the gpu (thinking the problem was gpu related) and gave it a thicker layer. Then i heated it for about 2mins (again until 2rol, in which i tightened the screws snug. Testing it again after cooldown, it booted normally. Started playing DiRT for about 10 mins in which it ran fine till I crashed, and chain reacted to a huge pileup!! and while that was happening, my xbox crashed as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) the next boot up resulted in 3rol.. again... <sigh> (1020)

So again i thought what could go wrong... then I figured it might be a CPU thing, in which i re did the thermal paste on the CPU nice and thick, tightened the screws, overheat (no change to 2rol, just 3 rol) for 1 mins, cooled it down, and tested it.... with no luck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) still 3rol..

My next hunch would be to play around with the tightness of the screws (since the error code is 1020). I'm wonderin if it maybe it's because I'm using the spring screws instead of nylon & metal combination for the bottom of the mobo. But i'm doing this as not to put too much pressure to/from the mobo to the metal housing (the head of the screw is about 2.8mm + spring washer thickness of 1mm = 3.8, this is actually over the reported clearance of the mobo and metal housing.)

I really would like to have some input on what I should do next, so any help/tips/suggestions would be reallllly reallllly appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: phatmike128 on September 05, 2007, 12:42:00 AM

I just did it, it took a few days. Kept getting the wrong size screws and had a few problems. Getting off the Xclamps was pretty stressful as I didn't have many helpful tools around.

After quite a lot of trial and error its working now..have had bioshock running the demo for about 20mins and have played for about 5mins. Will have an extensive playthrough tonight to see how it goes.

Thanks Lawdawg and everyone else in the community, and esp, the 2nd poster in this thread about the parts to use from bunnings, as I ended up setting it up pretty much exactly as he did (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 05, 2007, 01:50:00 AM

I've now fixed it for the 3rd time, i'm pretty optimistic about this try though as i have added talismoon fans( make a huge difference) and 80mm fans to the GPU and CPU heatsinks, with the DVD drive outside the case, i'm playing Bioshock both the gpu and cpu heatsinks are literally cold to touch! The only thing getting warm is the motherboard itself, so i might try something that lawdawg suggested to me, which is to add a fan beneath the motherboard to suck hot air away from it, my question is.. would it be more effective to blow air onto the motherboard?

What do you guys think?

Also, if i can keep the 360 cool ALL the time, would that pretty much eliminate the chances of the 3ROL ever returning?

Thanks,

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Heet on September 05, 2007, 02:28:00 AM

I dont think so. But im skeptical about ANYTHING 360 so....

Ive got 80mm's on gpu and cpu too. GPU is 95F tops (after hours of play) and CPU is 103-105 or so.

This console makes me feel more rediculous every day. I never thought Id see the day that i'd have to have 80mm fans X2 mind you IN ADDITION to the two talismoons just to play damn Bioshock.

Such bs.

I think subconsiously im really just trying to kill it just to get it over with because I know its inevitable.

*Question, have any of you had wierd stuff at the boot logo? When the screen is white or green (whatever) do you see very faint swirls? Like not a flat clean image, but a look similar to peeling saran wrap off of something? I cant take a picture of it but I just noticed it after doing some extreme cooling (again gpu is 89-95F).

Saran wrap may confuse, basically its movement around the logo. ANYONE? Thanks!!

You asked for pics of what some of the mods look like lawdawg. This is how im getting 90F on GPU. The cpu is wrong though and has since been changed. Blowing air down on it got it up to 120F. So changed back to the popular forward facing fan on the sink and now its about 103F. The small iceberg fan is cooling the ram.

And if anyone objects to these pics, I'll remove them, I know this aint a heet pictures thread, its an xclamp thread, but one of the guys responsible for this fix asked so thought id post em.

(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/HeetXS/box393.jpg)

(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/HeetXS/box390.jpg)

And ya its ugly right now, I built it in 2 days about a week ago.

This post has been edited by Heet: Sep 5 2007, 09:54 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 05, 2007, 05:05:00 AM

Looks good mate, that's what i was thinking of doing with my 360 if it bails out again. Was it difficult to do? also, what method did you use to affix the fans to the heatsinks?

Thanks for any info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: NS91 on September 05, 2007, 11:17:00 PM

Ok, I'm having a little problem here.

I just replaced my X-Clamps and followed the directions exactly, but I cant get the RF board to fit back into the mobo. Any help?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on September 06, 2007, 01:35:00 AM

QUOTE(NS91 @ Sep 6 2007, 12:17 AM)

Ok, I'm having a little problem here.

I just replaced my X-Clamps and followed the directions exactly, but I cant get the RF board to fit back into the mobo. Any help?

Sounds like your bolt heads between the mobo & case aren't exactly the same height as the case stand-offs. Try loosening the bolts around the power supply, video connectors, etc....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xen0cide on September 06, 2007, 04:18:00 AM

I'm getting a really persistent 3rol (0102) after getting it to work for 5 mins at a time using some tips off the forum (about 4 times green light, and now it's not budging after 3 days of tinkering -.-) now i'm trying to figure it out logically first what the problem is, so if someone can answer my burning questions about lawdawgs method that'd be awesome (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

- is error code 0102 confirmed (at least generally) to be GPU related, or it still can be anything?
- how far is the distance between the metal housing and the mobo? (i read in one of the posts to 3.7mm) and can the screw head touch the metal housing?
- how tight does the screw have to be (i tend to screw it with medium strength with a screwdriver until it wont budge). If u use the right thickness of washers (2 mm between the mobo and heatsink total) can you screw it in as tight as possible, or is that not advised?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 06, 2007, 06:30:00 AM

I can only tell you how tight mine are, with 2 metal washers on each side, i tightened my screws until they were very snug, loose enough for me to be able to undo with my finger tips. On my first attempt i tightened them fairly tight, but the lights came after 2 days or so.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: offishall on September 07, 2007, 08:45:00 AM

Well this worked like a charm. Couldn't find Nylon washers anywhere however so I used metal.

Had er on for about 4 hours last night with Bioshock, Tiger Woods and NHL 08 demo, no problems

BUT. My fans are now incredibly loud..Is this normal? Does the 360 have a heat sensor? Are the fans now operating at the proper speed? Is something messed up? OR all ok?

Thanks to all, working now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on September 07, 2007, 10:57:00 PM

QUOTE(offishall @ Sep 7 2007, 09:45 AM)

BUT. My fans are now incredibly loud..Is this normal? Does the 360 have a heat sensor? Are the fans now operating at the proper speed? Is something messed up? OR all ok?

Thanks to all, working now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The temperature is controlled by a simple on/off system instead of the internal temperature being used to control the speed of the fans. Alot of times after the X-clamp removal, several people have stated that the fans seem to be full speed all the time. Mine did that at first, then settled down after awhile....kinda like a burn-in period. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 08, 2007, 09:10:00 AM

I've had mine freeze a few times since the last fix, but always on a loading screen, the GPU and CPU heatsinks are nearly cold to touch. Any ideas what the problem could be? I'm using Verb media so i doubt it's the discs, do you think a reflash of the drive could help?

Thanks,

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kaylel on September 09, 2007, 03:19:00 PM

Registered to say I'm trying this out. Half pulled apart already, got all my parts today. Had to go to Lowes, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware just to get it all. Will post back after I get it done, put back together, and tested. I can say that this will probably be the last Xbox I buy. I had a PS1, PS2, and was going to get a PS3 and decided I didn't want to wait and got this thing. I like some of the games but it's such a hassle to have to fix it for them... And most of the games I like are on the PS3 too anyway! Still working on that patience thing, but they didn't have the right size at any of the hardware stores (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 09, 2007, 03:41:00 PM

Well the red lights came back, back to the drawing board! I took of the heatsinks and the as5 was kind of spread out towards the edges and not much on the middle of the chips, how did you guys apply your as5, smear over the whole chip with a credit card? or squeeze a rice sized blob onto it?

Thanks for any more info,

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kaylel on September 09, 2007, 04:23:00 PM

Might be a good idea to list the tools needed, not just the screws and washers. Going through my stuff I realized I was missing a tool, a t8 head for my screwdriver. Apparently it's not common, unless you work on electronics. So if you have an electronics toolkit, you'd probably be ok. I on the other hand had to go buy one. 4 trips to the hardware store in one day...

Man I need to play some FN3 bad...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sammie_sosa on September 09, 2007, 05:03:00 PM

Lawdawg's Method has worked for me so far 2Hrs play time on random games was getting 0102 code after system lockup at most 10 minutes into a game. All the LOWES's item #'s made it easy to find parts. I found a tool that some may be interested in, it's a KOBALT 8in1 Precision Screwdriver. It contains the T9 bit (actual size of little black screws) which was hard for me to find locally. It is item #239384 at LOWE's, and costs about $6.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kaylel on September 09, 2007, 05:38:00 PM

I'm having a hard time getting the bolts off the GPU heatsink, any tricks? They are on there reaaaaal good. Unless I'm turning wrong... lefty loosey usually works but not always (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on September 09, 2007, 11:31:00 PM

QUOTE(nitram100 @ Sep 9 2007, 04:41 PM)

I took of the heatsinks and the as5 was kind of spread out towards the edges and not much on the middle of the chips

The fact that it wasn't spread around the middle of the chip, and also you stated that they were cold to the touch...tells me the heatsinks are not sitting properly on the dies. You might need to remove one washer off each bolt. Before you tighten things down, the heatsinks should rock back & forth just a bit. This shows that the heatsink are sitting on the dies & not the washers. Those heatsinks should definitely be at least warm to the touch, shows they are pulling heat off the chips - & the chips definitely get hot.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 10, 2007, 01:34:00 AM

Thanks for the help lawdawg, i'm gonna go at it again later today, i have a venedtta with this thing i swear, i'll fix it if it's the last thing i do!

Kaylel...

To get those bolts off, i took some small pliers and just turned em "lefty" as hard is i could, be careful when holding the heatsink though, i managed to slice one of my fingers on one of the CPU heatsinks fins (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xen0cide on September 10, 2007, 02:41:00 AM

Well after a lot of trial and error finally got it to work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) i share the same vendetta.. honestly it really stressed me out trying to revive this beast.

I thought i'd share some info on how i got it to work. At first, i managed to get it to work (thanks to the tip on screw tightness from nitram (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) and i left it running with the case open for about an hour with dirt (couldn't do the replay bench cuz the hdd was not connected) then 2 hours with nba street homecourt demo running.. I was so glad that it ran fine, then i screwed in the casing bolts (more on this in a moment) then continued my game of bioshock (finally!!). After about 20 mins into the game, it froze and gave me a black screen! in which i turned it on/off again to be greeted by friggin 3rol (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grr.gif). I took it apart again played around with the washers with no results.

Then I reapplied the thermal paste. before I used MX-2 cooling paste, which claims to be cooler than as5, but the substance is much lighter than AS5 and when i lifted the heatsinks, it actually smudged unevenly accross the die.

When i re-applied with as5, i tried to make sure that it is a really thin even coating (enough so i can't see the 'mirror' of the dies), and proceeded to attach the heatsinks, with the screws tight/loose enough to be able to unscrew with fingers alone.

Now here's what i did differently: when it worked a few times back (that resulted in imminent 3rol again) i overheated/tested without the metal housing screws screwed in, and the motherboard is only resting on the bottom/not fixed in any way. so i thought maybe by screwing the bolts it would fix it in place, but it would slightly bend the mobo towards the metal housing and it would affect how the BGA connects to the mobo (maybe it would bend out of place easier if i overheated without it rigid when playing with it fixed to the housing). So then i screwed the mobo down tight to the metal housing, and then I overheated the damn thing for about 2-3 mins, until the heatsinks are actually really hot to touch (at least i know the paste is working). Then i left it to cool for about give or take 2-3 hours. and when i turned it on, voila green lights! i left on the dash for about 30 mins just to check then put the casing back together and wasted no time to put in bioshock. I played for almost 2 hours and had no problems! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The only thing i'm worried about right now is how much cooling the cpu esp the gpu is getting. When the system is running, if i put my hands behind the system to feel the air out of the fans, its actually BARELY warm. is this normal? or is it supposed to be hot/warm?

Before i test it again today, I'm gonna do the heat shroud mod to give it some more cooling.

Thank you lawdawg, nitram and all for the help and info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) i'll post progress after extended testing, but I'm hoping this time it'll last.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sammie_sosa on September 10, 2007, 02:38:00 PM

QUOTE(Kaylel @ Sep 9 2007, 06:38 PM)

I used regular sized vise grips adjusted to the size of HS bolt, and they cracked right loose. Really any long handle tool you have should work, the longer the handle the more leverage you'll have.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kaylel on September 10, 2007, 07:57:00 PM

QUOTE(sammie_sosa @ Sep 10 2007, 01:38 PM)

I used regular sized vise grips adjusted to the size of HS bolt, and they cracked right loose. Really any long handle tool you have should work, the longer the handle the more leverage you'll have.

I found another tool that fit the nut size better, and it worked perfectly. Now I'm working on cleaning everything so I can reapply as5 and hook it up. I'm trying the q-tip thing like in the tutorial, but man is this slow and tedious. Any other ideas for this step? I don't think I'll be getting it done tonight, maybe tomorrow.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: NS91 on September 10, 2007, 09:38:00 PM

Just finished the fix earlier tonight. No freezes so far, but I haven't really done anything, and it's too early to judge if it worked. I'm currently downloading the COD4 Beta (finally!).

This is how I got the 3RLOD to go away:

1. Cleaned thermal paste with Articlean.
2. Applied fresh Arctic Silver 5.
3. Used 5x10mm screws for both heatsinks.
4. One #10 nylon washer underneath the motherboard.
5. One #10 nylon and one 5mm steel washer above the motherboard.

Any other configuration would not rid me of the 3RLOD. I also performed the shroud mod.

I'll report back in a week or so to let everyone know how it's holding up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 11, 2007, 06:43:00 AM

Kaylel, did you buy any Articlean along with your AS5, the thermal paste comes right off the die with this articlean stuff.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mark1973 on September 11, 2007, 07:40:00 AM

I have done 4 succesfull x clamp replacements so far with great success

Heres how i did it

I used lawdawgs method but have not used any fibre washers at all

I used 5x10mm cross head screws (i purchesed 1000 for £10) i also used 2 washers on the side of the GPU (the tubed heat sink) and 1 under the head of the bolt as you only need 1

I used 2 steel washers on the CPU heat sink side and 2 under the head so the bolt does not touch the heat sink

I used AS5 and it works for me (you get what you pay for)and you must clean the chips and heatsinks fully with articclean

2 have not needed the overheat method at all as the heatsinks where so loose they wobbled.
1 needed the towel trick to get it going and is still going 1 month later
1 needed the overheat method

So there you go

Thanks lawdawg for a great fix

This post has been edited by mark1973: Sep 11 2007, 02:42 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Kaylel on September 11, 2007, 06:17:00 PM

QUOTE(nitram100 @ Sep 11 2007, 05:43 AM)

Kaylel, did you buy any Articlean along with your AS5, the thermal paste comes right off the die with this articlean stuff.

No! I didn't read anything about that. First time using this stuff personally, so I had no idea. Wish I had (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Oh well, almost done.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pcrazy99 on September 11, 2007, 09:52:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Sep 9 2007, 10:31 PM)

I did everything as described. I got the right parts and I got the 360 to get the 2 lights and let it run for 2 minutes and then tightened it down. I didn't check to see if the heatsinks rocked back and forth. If they are too snug would this cause the 3RLOD to stay?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on September 12, 2007, 08:54:00 AM

QUOTE(pcrazy99 @ Sep 11 2007, 10:52 PM)

I didn't check to see if the heatsinks rocked back and forth. If they are too snug would this cause the 3RLOD to stay?

You really need to ensure that the heatsinks are sitting well on the die, and not on the washers. After snugging the bolts down, I can usually see just a bit of room between the foot of the heatsink (where the bolt goes through) & the washer under it.
As far as it being "too snug"... that's a tough one. I mean, obviously if it's tightened too much - you can damage the chip itself. It just needs to be good & snug, the heatsink should definitely be getting warm/hot. Experimentation seems to be a key factor (following this thread), as everyone's mod requires a bit different tweaking to work out. Just stay with it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nitram100 on September 12, 2007, 02:51:00 PM

Well, i did the whole fix again, but this time i made sure that the heatsinks were making a good connection with the die and thermal paste, by seeing if i could rock it back and forth and it seems to be working perfectly, strange thing though, the washers underneath the heatsinks are moving, i can hear them rattling, although, seeing as the 360 is working, i might leave tinkering with it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Bdan629 on September 13, 2007, 07:26:00 PM

I love you Lawdawg and I want to have your babies......I got the 0102 error and the 3 red lights of death.....and I followed the guide perfectly.....and voila.....newly working xbox..bye bye red lights....thanks man

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hotwheel6661 on September 14, 2007, 10:35:00 AM

i have done lawdawgs method for the 3 red lights but now i got error 74 is there a way to fix this now can someone please help me

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hans030390 on October 02, 2007, 05:28:00 AM

UPDATE: Finally got the thing to boot! Here's what I did.

1. Used the diagram with two washers under HS, one lock washer between screw and mobo. (CPU and GPU)
2. Screwed everything down REALLY tight. As tight as I could possibly get it.
3. Overheating method did not work. Put it all back together and did the towel trick (sad, I know) for 15 minutes.
4. Went to bed, let it cool down overnight.
5. Turned it on, and it works.

Now, The X (in that circle thing) with Xbox 360 under it stays on the screen for a long time (like 10 seconds or over). Is this normal? Perhaps it's trying to read a disk that's not in there.

There was a problem 2 seconds after being on the dashboard, the screen turned grey with vertical white lines on the screen.

I turned it off, and it booted fine...still took a while. The video seemed to be fine. The dashboard didn't go to that grey screen.

What was that grey screen? Why is the logo stuck like that for so long? What should I do next?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hans030390 on October 02, 2007, 05:57:00 AM

Update: Scratch the above. I tried booting it up a couple more times. First time I got to the dashboard and the screen went black in a few seconds. Next time it froze on the Xbox 360 logo as it spins around.

Now it's back to the 3 red lights. Any suggestions?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on October 03, 2007, 11:40:00 PM

QUOTE(hans030390 @ Oct 2 2007, 06:28 AM)

1. Used the diagram with two washers under HS, one lock washer between screw and mobo. (CPU and GPU)
3. Overheating method did not work. Put it all back together and did the towel trick (sad, I know) for 15 minutes.

How good of a connection are the heatsinks making on the die? Is it spreading the AS5 completely & evenly? Also, never been a fan (at all) of the towel trick - as it heats everything....caps included.

And for 15 minutes! OUCH...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: BaggerS on October 04, 2007, 04:45:00 PM

ARGH, lol

ive been trying to fix my RROD box for the last few days with no avail.

ive replaced both x clamps with bolts, and followed this guide.

i have used 2 washers under the mobo and two on top for both the CPU and GPU. and still used the stock thermal paste as all shops around here are sold out of the stuff.

at first i tightened the bolts up quite tight, and once turned the box on i would get RROD instantly, so i slackened the bolts of for both the GPU and CPU, now when it turns on it takes a good 5 seconds before the RROD appears. slackened further i would get 2 red lights (left hand side), presuming now that they were not making good enough contact with the dies.

does anyone have any suggestions as to what i could do or have done wrong to stop this from working?

any help will be greatly appreciated!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: deilzfcjk on October 04, 2007, 04:56:00 PM

yeah I fixed it today. That's lawdawg. I tried for 2 weeks though. Readjusting and playing with washer heights. Getting wrong rubber washers. I got little gaskets for garden sprinklers which turned out to be too think....but I had to work around that. Because when ever I screwed down the bolts on the cpu side with those washer it'll flatten out and expand the diameter, which made getting the washers to side flat on the adjacent gpu heatsink holes(the inner ones) a bitch to line up. I had to shave off some of the material with a file. I could've just bought paper or fiber washers but I didnt' want to go out no more. I already made 3 trips to the hardware store. I stripped 1 bolt and the thread on the gpu heatsink. SO, I had to improvise by getting a unibit to drill out the top of the heatsink so I could place a lock nut on top of a longer bolt. I stripped the threads on the gpu heatsink so no matter what I did I could get the bolts to start. Then I also cut my hands on metal shaving from effectively destroying the heads of the bolts. I used zinc bolts and they don't last when you screw and unscrew for 20-30 times. finally works though.

All in all it was a troublesome effort. But this machine was for a customer so I want to get paid. The guy I was fixing it for just got it back from MS for repair of RROL 1 week before it crapped out again. So, once I heard that I decided might be worth it.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: deilzfcjk on October 05, 2007, 02:09:00 AM

nevermind. It didnt' take. I was watching a dvd for 1 hour so I thought it was fixed. But once I quit the dvd and went to dashboard it went black and shutoff with 2 red blinking lights. I guess the 360 doesn't use the gpu when processing videos. I hate it soooo much. I think only thing will fix 360's is reflow. The box just shuts off after a few seconds of showing the intro xbox logo. The BGA connections are toasted. It's nightmarish!! Let Microsoft fix it and then do the xclamp replacement. This is such a hassle to do. All those people who report successful fixes I hate you. J/k.

This post has been edited by deilzfcjk: Oct 5 2007, 09:17 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Eddie_the_Hated on October 05, 2007, 07:28:00 PM

Apologies, as I'm sure it's been answered before, but what are the exact "Standard/English" Measurements of the bolt in question. My local hardware store had no freaking clue when I went in with the list (got the washers though).

Any help would be appreciated.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: superdavem on October 06, 2007, 09:22:00 AM

I got a complete hardware kit which includes 16 metric nylon washers, 16 metric metal flat washers, and the correct metric bolts that fit exactly into the threaded xclamp post holes on ebay for $9.99 shipped. It took about 3 days for them to arrive.

Here is a link for the same item.
XBOX x clamp hardware

Or search xbox x clamp kit on ebay. It saved me all the quess work and from running all over the city.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Eddie_the_Hated on October 06, 2007, 04:38:00 PM

Fantastic! Thanks much.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: renegade800 on October 06, 2007, 06:45:00 PM

Cheers for the tutorial it worked a treat but I did adapt it slightly and this may help some others who havent quite got it to work properly.

When I first tried things went to plan, went to 2 lights for overheating to reseat the GPU, then was working ok briefly. Then when back together it overheated again and was back to 3RLOD again.

I stripped it down again and worked out that the spacing between the motherboard and heatsink was the problem so I removed both washers form this side so the only washers were on the underside if the m/board and screwed the bolts just hand tight. With the m/b out of the case plugged in the front switch power and video out and just tightened each screw slightly until it booted properly. With the m/b still out of the case once you get it to boot properly there is some adjustment in each screw before you get the error up again, get that to the mid point of the adjustment and it should be fine.

Bearing in mind that with no spacers between the heatsink and board the heatsink is being forced on to the chip (I had no thermal paste left at this point) you may be able to get away without any!!! Prob not recomended but thought i'd mention it.

I put it all back together and have had halo3 on constantly for 48 hours without any freezing or probs whatsoever!!

The Bolts I used were M5 .8 *10 from B&Q, they are actually slot headed screws rather than bolts (code AVF-069918) and they are still adjustable thru the hole where the small black torx screws used to go into the xclamp legs. So if there is another problem here they can be adjusted with only removing the bottom of the case!!

Another point that might be worth noting:
The second time I tried to reseat the GPU and left the overheat lights on for 2 mins as suggested, I noticed that by the time the 2 mins was up that the heatsink was pretty cool, so at a guess once those 2 lights come on the power is cut to the sensitive areas to prevent more damage, in which case the timing of letting the overheat to reseat the chip is not relevant as whatever heat is required to solve the problem must have already been reached.

Anyway, that is just how I got round the 3rlod problem and hope it might help someone else.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: punktilend on October 06, 2007, 06:58:00 PM

hey sorry if this is a dumb question but has anyone else looked on lowes.com and checked to find the screws and washers and others on there? every time i do there not on the website i use the product numbers for them and nothing are they just at lowes and not lowes.com?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: roninblues on October 08, 2007, 09:52:00 PM

So I managed to fix my 3 red light problem with this, but now I have a new one. My xbox will no longer display in HD. Switching the cables to SD I get video but the screen flickers, turning it to HD I get sound but no video at all. Other than that it works fine, but isn't really playable due to screen flickering or no video.

I'm wondering if the small scratch I left on the MB is the problem, and if soldering it would be a fix.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mufaa on October 09, 2007, 05:55:00 AM

QUOTE(superdavem @ Oct 6 2007, 07:58 PM)

Or for people who do not live in the US, they can go here to buy their X-clamp kit:
http://www.x-clamp-f...ix-DIY-Kit.html

$15 for one kit + $5 for international shipping. Ordered 2 kits via paypal, hopefully they will arrive without problems.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dhh_93 on October 09, 2007, 01:44:00 PM

can i also buy the thermal paste at lowes?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Fakie_1999 on October 09, 2007, 03:13:00 PM

I just did lawdawg's x-clamp replacement with success! I bought a 3 red light xbox on ebay for $80, and the mod worked. thanks a lot to everyone who came up with these mods, and posted their findings!

talismoon fans are on the way. until they get here, I'm gonna run it without the cover on. I've also done rbjtechs cooling mods. I recommend anyone looking to do this to give it a try!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: repset on October 11, 2007, 11:14:00 PM

I bought a 3 RLOD 360 off of ebay and got it today. It had 0102 error. Did the replacement along with the 12 v fan mod and every thing works great!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on October 11, 2007, 11:23:00 PM

That right there is the reason I posted this tutorial.....LIFE to the DOA 360. Hope it lasts......

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: macs_headroom on October 13, 2007, 01:02:00 PM

Thanks lawdawg. you have restored our Familys game time. My Son expecily sends his thanks.
I replaced the X clamp on my GPU with a few mods.
First I cut out the metal behind the fans. For the Xclamp replacement I used 4 hex cap bolts (drilled out bottom of case to accomidate them), metal washer, nylon washer on bottom and 1 nylon washer on top for heatsink clearance. The nylon washer was as tall as the GPU packiaging itself but less then the die. I used some thermal paste Apple sends me for when I replace a logic board for them, a thick grey paste. I did the overheat but the GPU didnt get that warm and did not fix, so I let it overheat again with the help of a small butane torch, very carfuly heating the GPU heatsink to a point I couldnt touch it for more then a half a second. Then let it cool for 20 miniutes.
We have been battling our way through Halo3 for 3 days now, with no problems. My Wife thinks graphics looks sharper and a better picture too.
Thanks again lawdawg, You the man!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: stoatie_weasel on October 14, 2007, 10:30:00 AM

Fixed a RROD first time using this method. I'm in the UK and bought everything I need from a local specialist. Every Town has one, trust me. Bought 100 of each item for £2 each. Just look in the yellow pages.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: calxp1 on October 14, 2007, 01:32:00 PM

I have a functioning xbox and I'm thinking of doing this mod to prevent damage to the mobo by the xclamp. However, I assume that the heatsink will be soldered to the cpu as the xbox is wording normally. Therefore, can I just take off the xclamp and put the washers on the other side of the mobo without removing the heatsink and applying arctric silver? Will that work or will I need difference screws or what?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on October 15, 2007, 08:54:00 PM

QUOTE(calxp1 @ Oct 14 2007, 02:32 PM)

As stated many times...."If it 'aint broke - don't fix it". Too many times these mods will require constant tweaking after you have performed them. Leave it alone until you NEED to fix it!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: calxp1 on October 16, 2007, 12:07:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Oct 16 2007, 04:30 AM)

As stated many times...."If it 'aint broke - don't fix it". Too many times these mods will require constant tweaking after you have performed them. Leave it alone until you NEED to fix it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Ok but I ordered one of those led talismoon fans that supposedly push 58% more air. You think that will help in preventing the red light? It froze on me once when I was playing a game so I'm scared that might be a symptom of an x-clamp prob.

This post has been edited by calxp1: Oct 16 2007, 07:11 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on October 16, 2007, 05:25:00 AM

Any cooling mods you can do will help out. Plus it will be in place already when the X-clamps need to come off. RBJTech has the cooling mods you need, if you haven't checked them out yet - you need to: http://www.rbjtech.net/

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: moobypets on October 17, 2007, 11:58:00 PM

hi im kind off new here and ive did your xclamp and it took me a while but it worked 100 % for about 4 5 month

then yesterday it just give me the 3 ring again and a new code

102 or 402 not sure

but im now officially lost (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

so i guess i could just play with the screw again ?

or could i remove the top washer the one right under the heatsink

cuz ive read some where that this code error was for humidity related

im just so lost and my kid had sick day and he call me crying the box when dead again

plz guy im 33 with 4 kid this is a precious tool for my sanity (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jester.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: XPunked on October 18, 2007, 03:10:00 AM

Has any body alse found that Dan's C/S MT 3/16*1/2 Screws from bunnings are just slight too short to engage the heatsinks?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Samsun on October 18, 2007, 08:53:00 AM

I have attempted this fix and failed. I want to add an extra washer above the motherboard. Do I need to reapply the AS5 again to do this?

Thanks in advance!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaximusX15 on October 18, 2007, 08:55:00 AM

here's what i used:

8x size 10 32x1/2 machine screws
16x size 10 fiber washers
16x size 10 metal washers

all for under like 5$ at Lowes.

The screws were a bit harder to find but the size i listed will work PERFECT with 2 washers below and above the motherboard on each screw. Everything worked out great

MS should look into this and consider removing the x-clamps from the design..

QUOTE

I have attempted this fix and failed. I want to add an extra washer above the motherboard. Do I need to reapply the AS5 again to do this?

Thanks in advance!

just check to make sure the thermal paste is still neatly on the cpu and gpu. you should not have to use anymore.. unless the cpu or gpu is lacking some.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PriiT on October 18, 2007, 09:19:00 AM

First of all thank you Lawdawg0931 for this nice tutorial.
However i did not succeed. Now when i turn it on, i get three led nights, and after a few seconds i hear a click
it goes from three to two lights and shortly after that turns itself off. I am completely out of ideas and
soon willing to throw it away.
I could of course send it somewhere for inspection but there are too many places to choose from, lack of experience. ( could use some guidance )

Oh and one more thing i wanted to ask.
Difference between nylon washers and steel washers, why both has to be used?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaximusX15 on October 18, 2007, 09:33:00 AM

QUOTE(PriiT @ Oct 18 2007, 04:55 PM)

don't throw it away. Tighten up your screws a little bit and make sure that the heatsinks are touching the cpu abnd gpu. Did you use Artic Silver thermal paste?

You want to use a metal then nylon washer becasue nlyon can move. You need to leave a little bit of room for the thermal paste to expand. If you use both metal there will be no room for the thermal paste to expand and you console will continue getting 2 lights

2 red lights is an overheating error. Tighten your screws. You're gonna wanna get it really really tight. Please feel free to contact me if you need more help:
AIM: Buckguerra10
MSN: [email protected]

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Samsun on October 18, 2007, 12:21:00 PM

Hi everyone. Im in a good mood!! After my second attempt at this fix it appears to have worked.

After I screwed everything down I turned it on without the fans as instructed. I got no red lights at all! Unlike my first failed attempt. I switched it off sortly after boot up. Should I skip the overheating step and hope it lasts or would it be better to do it anyway? I'll wait for a reply before turning it on again.

I can finally play Halo3 again!!

Thanks to Lawdawg and everyone else who has helped with this!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MaximusX15 on October 18, 2007, 05:45:00 PM

QUOTE(Samsun @ Oct 18 2007, 07:21 PM)

I personally skipped the overheating step. turned on my console for about 10 minutes and got 3rod.. shut of for 2 minutes loaded back up and its been working great!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: moobypets on October 19, 2007, 12:40:00 AM

aqs for me i get 3 rrod with code 102

and yesterday just forgot to turn the xbox off and it worked back to life for like 20 hrs then failed again

so my guess i have to play with screw again

but when i have it working 100 % the screw are not supposed to move ?

if so could i use lock tite

trying some thing ive put the hair dryer on the intake fan till i could fell some heat coming out everywhere and waited it did not work

put the console on the side nope either

put the console on the hd side and it booted ?

confused here need any pointer ?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ezkialrage on October 20, 2007, 11:40:00 PM

thank you for the tutorial. for the most part, this tutorial worked great for me.

i have a launch day xbox that worked flawlessly until the last update. i thought it was the update that bricked my 360 but after doing this xclamp mod i no longer get the rrod. it boots up however, after less than 5 min of gameplay the console freezes. i think it is because of overheating issues in that its doing this freezing thing while the console is "naked". the heatsinks are very hot to the touch and here i thought they would be cooler with all the extra air going in. i have tightened down the clamps to the point of i fear mobo crackage.

one thing to note however is when i went out to get supplies, the only thermal paste i could find was bootleg paste from tiger direct. so its not the AS5. could that be causing the freezing issues? the screws are super tight, ive even unscrewed to check for heatsing/gpu contact and its their.

im excited to almost have my xbox back and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ezkialrage on October 21, 2007, 10:42:00 PM

QUOTE(ezkialrage @ Oct 21 2007, 12:40 AM)

well itturns out that i can play my arcade games until the cows come home, but if i try to run a 360 game or a downloaded 360 demo, i can get about 30 sec into gameplay before the video freezes and machine locks up. ive tried numerous methods of heatsink fix, mainly just adjusting the screws and taking out washers and putting them back in, ive also went and gotten actual AS5 and put it on the gpu and cpu, but still freezes. i dont know what it could be but im leaning torwards gpu overheating. i might just break down and buy another mobo

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: a1baz on October 22, 2007, 01:42:00 PM

Seems like a good guide well done for coming up with it!

Just a quick Q.. the guide says to clean the thermal compound off the chip but its all over on mine, am i meant to just clean the shiny bits or try and get the whole lot off? I presume i'm meant to clean the bottom of the heat sink as well?

Thanks in advance

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Gerjan on October 23, 2007, 04:53:00 AM

QUOTE(a1baz @ Oct 22 2007, 10:18 PM)

Thanks in advance

Just clean the center square part and the bottom of the headsink. The compound on the rest of it isn't important. (doesn't harm though, if you don't knock of the small "shiny bits")

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on October 23, 2007, 10:20:00 AM

I stop using this mod because every once per month my system gave me the 3rl.
I had to overheat the system to make it work again. (right now i´m trying the pennys mod)

Do you guys have any idea what i could do without sending motherboard to reflow? Why my system keep faling after 15 to 30 days of use?

The longer it last was 2 month while other time last only for a few days

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on October 23, 2007, 08:06:00 PM

Hey!

After 3 months with no problem here is the 3 Red Lights!

Now my code is 0102. before it was 0020.

I have try everything. Remove the heatsink, reapply thermal paste, redo all the same setup. My xbox does'nt want to live again! Shit.... I can play 5 minutes an it freze again. Now I'm seriously out of idea.

Any help will be appreciated!

You can see my other post in this thread on page 33

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: booker on October 23, 2007, 08:45:00 PM

QUOTE(Anikachiktou @ Oct 24 2007, 03:06 AM)

Same here....

right now i´m trying the Pennys mod, but i don´t have any hope

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Anikachiktou on October 23, 2007, 09:52:00 PM

QUOTE(booker @ Oct 23 2007, 11:21 PM)

Same here.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) right now i´m trying the Pennys mod, but i don´t have any hope

I don't have any hope too! Sorry man! Anyway, let me know if it's work.. who knows?

This post has been edited by Anikachiktou: Oct 24 2007, 04:52 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: moobypets on October 28, 2007, 10:51:00 PM

wow it has been a while and ive still dotn have any help for my bug

i still get a code 102 and i cannot get this damn brick to work

getting desperate

plz anybody could help

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Relix on October 29, 2007, 09:52:00 AM

I did this mod and it worked for months. Now its broken. I redid the fix and it seemed to work, eventually froze and now just RODs. Not even overheating it gets it to work, it just turns on, no vide or sound, and eventually does the RLOD.

So, I used phillips screws, what if I use a hex screw... will it work better? Also, if I try RBJTech's MKIII mod, would that work better than just retrying lawdawgs? Help! I am kinda desperate =P

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: scienide on October 31, 2007, 06:09:00 AM

Hi,

i have a question about the 3 red lights fix...

I have an xbox without warranty because its in a custom casing. Now i have 3 red lights on the console.

When i open up and power up the 360 i notice that the gpu heatsink gets warm pretty fast, but the cpu heatsink stays cold where it should warm up just as fast as the gpu.

Can i apply the 3 red light fix only to the cpu section? As the cpu seems to have the heating problem but the gpu seems fine.

When the xbox was dying it freezed the game and the game didnt show any artifacts or screen distortions what so ever.

Thanks...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on October 31, 2007, 09:20:00 AM

QUOTE(scienide @ Oct 31 2007, 07:09 AM)

Can i apply the 3 red light fix only to the cpu section? As the cpu seems to have the heating problem but the gpu seems fine.
Thanks...

You can, but 90 % of the time people are having trouble with the GPU side. Artifacts, freezing, RLOD 'almost' always refer to GPU heating problems. While you are in there, might as well do both sides.

@all others having repeated troubles

This fix (over time especially) has proven to need constant attention & re-tweaking. I know it's frustrating to redo the mod, but I myself have re-done my personal xbox 3 times (once just trying RBJTech's mod). The only true fix would be a reballing of the motherboard. Reflow would be a middle-ground fix. I'm so frustrated with M$ over this cr*p that I pretty much went back to my Xbox 1 with XBMC. Never had one problem with ANY that I've modded. But that's my preference I guess....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Lee.J.K on November 02, 2007, 10:15:00 PM

I have not succeeded using this method

My console is preowned from EB and I've had it about 1 month
I got 3 red lights and the error code 0021 after playing for one day after I flashed the firmware. The first time I got the three red lights I simply waited and it started working again in 5 minutes. After I turned the console off I never was able to get rid of the three lights..

I tried Lawdawg0931's method.
At first I left the screws loose and baked it very minimally. After this failed I tried tightening the screws on the motherboard and baking it for longer, then I tried tightening the motherboard to the case. The motherboard seemed warped because the sockets were not lined up with the case properly before I screwed it down. After attaching the case to the motherboard I baked it until I got the 2 red overheating lights.
,,
At no point during the repair have I ever fixed the 3 red light problem, and my error code is still 0021. I'm wondering if the DVD drive might be the problem instead.

I'm thinking of attempting the towel method but I'd like to hear what people think before I potentially do more damage.

I also have considered the possibility that the screw heads are too big and the board is not sitting straight, but they look exactly the same as the ones on lawdawgs tutorial, and the heads are only a few mm tall.

Any help would be greatly appreciated... I can't believe that this screwed up so quickly

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Albut35 on November 02, 2007, 10:57:00 PM

QUOTE(Lee.J.K @ Nov 3 2007, 12:51 AM)

I would NOT do the towel trick as I've heard that just does more damage to the mother board.

What I would do is: loosen the screws, let it run and over heat giving you the 2 red lights, then while the motherboard is still hot, tighten the screws pretty snug to the motherboard.. thats what I've done for about 20 xbox360s and everyone has worked so far:)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Lee.J.K on November 02, 2007, 11:50:00 PM

I'll try it again then. By snug I'm guessing you mean tight, but not so tight that you have to strain to turn the screwdriver

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Lee.J.K on November 02, 2007, 11:39:00 PM

QUOTE(Albut35 @ Nov 3 2007, 06:33 AM)

What I would do is: loosen the screws, let it run and over heat giving you the 2 red lights, then while the motherboard is still hot, tighten the screws pretty snug to the motherboard.. thats what I've done for about 20 xbox360s and everyone has worked so far:)

I just tried it (without screwing it into the case) with no luck. Something I should mention is that with the screws I have to push down on the corners of the motherboard (or screw in the case screws) for the motherboard sockets to line up properly with the holes in the metal case.

I think either the board is warped up at the edges, or maybe the screws under the heatsinks are sitting elevated in the casing from where they should be. Anyway, if the screws were doing this then it should have worked when the motherboard was overheated when I did it outside the case.

Any more tips, I have no idea...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Lee.J.K on November 03, 2007, 01:28:00 AM

I am going to try overheating the motherboard while it's sitting in the case without any screws holding the heatsinks down next.
As long as I don't bump the heatsinks then it should theoretically work if there is actually a problem with the motherboard.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Lee.J.K on November 03, 2007, 02:14:00 AM

QUOTE(Lee.J.K @ Nov 3 2007, 08:28 AM)

This didn't work either. I think my xbox is fundamentally F -ed in the A.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: moobypets on November 03, 2007, 06:29:00 PM

or you did a bad flash

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Lee.J.K on November 03, 2007, 10:43:00 PM

QUOTE(moobypets @ Nov 4 2007, 01:29 AM)

or you did a bad flash

I thought about that. Since I didn't do it personally (and had to pay) I've never had the opportunity to check.

The only problem with this theory is that:
1. The console worked fine with the flash for about 2 days
2. When I disconnect the DVD drive from the motherboard I still get the same error code: 0021

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dangerouseddy on November 04, 2007, 06:09:00 AM

that error can be caused also if theres a problem with the southbridge chip, i had one with the same fault. the x-clamp fix didnt make any difference, so i sold it on ebay. having the board reflowed might fix it.

This post has been edited by dangerouseddy: Nov 4 2007, 02:10 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dante1 on November 04, 2007, 07:37:00 AM

Hello,

I'm in the process of doing this mod but I have been reading many posts about error codes and I have yet to see an error code on my XBOX360. I simply turn it on and I get the 3rod. Is my console having the heat problem of is it simply screwed?

Thanks,

Dante1

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: BamElementCH on November 04, 2007, 08:10:00 AM

QUOTE(dante1 @ Nov 4 2007, 09:37 AM)

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=484726
Go to the SECONDARY ERROR CODES section. There are instructions on how to check the exact error code.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: plowmanjoe on November 13, 2007, 12:45:00 AM

hello,

my xbox is fine and doesn't need any fixing. but my friend wants to get an xbox 360 and i was thinking that he could save some money by not buying a new one and just getting a broken one on ebay that i would fix, or try to fix. i was wondering if that was a good idea or not. i haven't ever tried this fix before. but i'm confident i can do it with the tutorials.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Super Anto on November 13, 2007, 06:14:00 PM

Hi guys, I tried the rbjtech method cause my xbox had some artefacts in games, I tried with 3 washers and the console worked fine for 3 days, then I decided (god damn that moment!) to switch to 2 washer, cause I wanted to keep the spring washers not completely tight, so they could do their job properly...since that moment I got 3 red lights (never had before) and I don't know what to do.
What could be happened?
Please help me.

p.s. Sorry for my english.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SlickWilly440 on November 13, 2007, 05:48:00 PM

QUOTE(plowmanjoe @ Nov 13 2007, 01:45 AM)

Yeah I'm pretty sure that anyone who is will to take the time and read the tutorials on how to take apart the 360 and the X-Clamp fix could do this. I say this because I was able to do this. If you do try to get one on eBay try to get one that comes with at least a power brick, b/c they can be quite expensive if bought separately.

Also even if you do fix the rlod problem, there might be a chance that the 3rlod could show up a few months down the road, this happened to me unfortunately, and I was able to fix it. But it took a few hours.

The the whole point is if you like taking things apart multiple times and want the experience of fixing and messing around with consoles, this is the right path for you or your friend.

If you don't feel like messing around with the 360's inner workings, then buying a new console might be better suited for your friend.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Super Anto on November 13, 2007, 06:26:00 PM

Error code: 0021

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Super Anto on November 13, 2007, 07:19:00 PM

Sorry, I'm brand new here and I didn't see the RBJtech method discussion 3ad, sorry for posting in the wrong one.

I've checked for the error guide and mine (0021) could be a "dvd drive time out", how can I do to be sure the problem is the drive or gpu? I didn't flash anything.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: eLiguL on November 14, 2007, 10:42:00 AM

QUOTE(Super Anto @ Nov 13 2007, 09:19 PM)

If your problem was similiar to mine you might wanna give this a try. My problem was it seemed my xbox was unable to read any games. It would just spin and spin at the Dashboard and then the status would go from "Reading" to "Open Tray". I was able to fix this problem by replacing the sata cable, I heard an immeadiate difference after replacing the cable (the drive spun a lot faster and loaded in a snap).

After I replaced my sata cable I still had the RROD problem so I proceeded to do the fix. I did choose DIFFERENT parts then the one perscribed. I bought pieces similiar to the "x-clamp-fix" people (#10 metal washers, #10 lock washers, #10 nylon washers, #10-32 1/2 machine screws). Seems the only thing the lock washers did was scrape up my xbox and the metal washers made the clearance to high. With all the washers in place I got 2 red lights which signified overheating. I looked closer and noticed that the chip thing was almost exactly the same heigh as the nylon washer and that the metal washer made it entirely to high of a clearance. Long story short, I removed the lock washer and metal washer. So now im only left with the bolt and the nylon washer. My xbox has been working since.

N.B. I am in Canada and was able to purchase all the parts at homedepot.

Parts
#10-32 1/2inch machine screws (they have a flat head and use a square screwdriver) $1.99
#10 Nylon washers (9cents a piece)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: trance and acid on November 14, 2007, 11:55:00 AM

Ok, I did this fix. I turned on my xbox and within 30 sec. i got the the 3 lights down to 2 lights (the left lights), but i didn't feel the heatsinks get hot and the fans also turned off. Is this normal? Do I have to put the xbox back together to make the two lights go off. Every time i turn it on (without the case) i still get two lights ? =/... any advice, and/or solution? thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on November 14, 2007, 08:28:00 PM

QUOTE(trance and acid @ Nov 14 2007, 01:31 PM)

Within 30 sec. i got the the 3 lights down to 2 lights (the left lights), but i didn't feel the heatsinks get hot

The fact that it overheated in 30 seconds, and the fact that the heatsinks never got hot..... I'd be willing to bet that the heatsinks are not making good contact with the CPU/GPU dies. Take the heatsinks off & look at the imprint in the AS5. Make sure that the heatsinks are sitting on the dies securely, not on the washers. The heatsinks should (without a doubt) get HOT!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Super Anto on November 15, 2007, 04:13:00 AM

QUOTE(eLiguL @ Nov 14 2007, 06:42 PM)

First of all, thanks for your help.
I've checked on line and the error code 0021 seems to be related with dvd drive timeout or a southbride problem, so if I am right, you just pulled out the lock and metal washers between mobo and h/s, right? Overheating is not my problem, anyway I could try, but do you think I should try to replace the sata cable? And if yes, with what? Another different or a new original one? thanks again for your help!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RoachForLife on November 15, 2007, 02:51:00 PM

I did this 4 or 5 months ago and worked great. Now, 1 yr after purchase of 360, its coming back. I noticed the bolt could be a little more snug but its hit or miss. Played Gears with a coworker for an hour or so the other night without a problem, but loaded HL2 and 5min it, video went black. Upon bootup, 3 rings.

Anything else to do at this point?? Tried the overheating method to 'resolder' which was before HL2 actually so that didnt really work.

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: larsenmash on November 15, 2007, 10:53:00 PM

Did lawdogs method. After heating and cool turned on, got a signal to tv then froze. then reset and 3rl. I am wondering If I mabye used to much as5?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: trance and acid on November 16, 2007, 09:36:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Nov 14 2007, 08:04 PM)

I did what you said, and the heatsinks got hot for about two min. then they got really cold, even though the xbox was still on. I think its the crappy compound i have. Instead of using AS5, i bought the cheap Radio Shack brand. I have ordered some AS5, and it should be here tomorrow. I just have one question. Do I have to reassemble the xbox to make the 2 red lights go off? I would hate to put it all together, and then take it all apart again if it doesn't work. Thanks .

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SlickWilly440 on November 16, 2007, 11:09:00 AM

^
No you do not have to re-assemble the entire 360. Just have the mother board in the case (unscrewed), the dvd drive, the fan, and the front Rf module installed and you are good to go.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MusashiX2 on November 16, 2007, 04:39:00 PM

i could use some help with my problem. i already posted all the information here:

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=629745

the run-down, is that after the x-clamp replacement my 360 gets really loud after a few minutes (even just sitting idle). my guess now is that it is overheating, and the loud noise is the fans trying to control the temperature. any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on November 18, 2007, 10:05:00 AM

QUOTE(trance and acid @ Nov 16 2007, 10:36 AM)

Do I have to reassemble the xbox to make the 2 red lights go off?

Not at all, just put the mobo back in the case (not tightened down completely) & plug the video cables in and the power suplly in. Then see what happens, if need to - overheat 'till the 2 lights. The AS5 should also make a difference. Cheap stuff isn't worth it....AS5 is a must! Hope it works out for you

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: slim673 on November 18, 2007, 01:07:00 PM

I have done 20+ consoles with the rod using mkIII and made notes from each repair. The first couple of console gave me 3 red lights after the fix, and needed to be booted a few times or overheating. I decided to take my changes with the shim. I bought a piece of aluminum, with a thickness of 0.5 mm. I cut pieces of 1.6x2.0.x1.2 so the dies are well covered. Since i use the shim the console boots like it supposedto be the first time i power it on. No exceptions.
So everyone who has a hardtime fixing the rod; just try the shim. Its a cheap piece of metal that might save your xbox.

For your information: I use 4 metal rings (1mm each) under the board, and 2 rings above.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: exeon on November 19, 2007, 02:40:00 PM

I finally found an M5x10 machine screw (I'm in Canada) but I have a couple of questions for the washers.

What is the thickness of the washer? I've found various 5mm washers with different thickness. Which one to take?

Also, can the 5mm washer be of nylon or it has to be metal?
Same thing for the opposite. Does the #10 washer have to be in nylon?

Tnx

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mikeveli20 on November 20, 2007, 02:17:00 PM

QUOTE(exeon @ Nov 19 2007, 05:16 PM)

Where did you find your parts? I'm in Canada as well.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: exeon on November 20, 2007, 11:43:00 PM

Ok big ouch.
I've went ahead with the x-clamp removal. Before closing my xbox, I powered it on and within 30 seconds or so, the heatsink was hot enough (not burning but hot) so I presumed all went well.

I closed it up and booted up my xbox.
After about 3 seconds (before i can see any video), it started making a HUGE sound. I think it's the fans. Then 3 or 4 seconds later, the xbox auto shut down and I had 2 red lights flashing (I think it's light 1 and 3).

Any help?

QUOTE(mikeveli20 @ Nov 20 2007, 10:53 PM)

Where did you find your parts? I'm in Canada as well.

I found everything at Home Depot. Don't search for M5 screws. Search for 5mm X 10 screws.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: exeon on November 21, 2007, 01:04:00 AM

I'd like to add somethings:

- When the xbox360 is opened (without fans), it takes 2.5 mins before I get the overheating 2RRoD.
- I used AS5 thermal compound and I've put a good amount on the heatsink.
- I first tried with 2 washers under the mainboard and 2 washers over(under the heatsink). Didnt work. So I removed 1 washer under the mainboard. Still doesnt work
- I've ONLY modified the x-clamp for the GPU. I haven't modified the CPU x-clamp.

Any help would be HUGELY appreciated

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: exeon on November 21, 2007, 04:38:00 PM

Update on my situation.

I've decided to do the x-clamp for the CPU to.
So I re-opened my xbox, removed the CPU x-clamp and modified it with lawdawg's method.
I've obviously put AS5 on the CPU to.

I powered it on and within 30 seconds of the boot up (no fans), the CPU heatsink was burning while the GPU heatsink was relatively OK (it was hot but not burning).

The scheme I used for the washers is 1xnylon washer under the mainboard and 2 washers (nylon/metal) over the mainboard (between the heatsink and the mainbo).

Reassembled my xbox. 5 seconds after booting it up, bang. 2 red lights. Overheating. I checked the secondary error code and I got 0011.

What am I doing wrong?
Can the amount of AS5 be in case here? Or that can't cause an immediate overheating?
Is it normal, when I test without fans, that the CPU heatsink gets super hot compared to the GPU heatsink?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm gonna go now and try to place only 1 washer between the heatsink and the mainbo and none under.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: exeon on November 21, 2007, 07:10:00 PM

Fixed.
Here is what I did.

Opened my box yet another time (Opening your xbox over 30 times in 24 hours, priceless!).
Removed everything.
Under the mainboard, I only put 1 metal washer. No nylon.
Over the mainboard, under the heatsink, I put only 1 nylon washer.
I did that for CPU and GPU.

When testing without fans, CPU was still much hotter then GPU.

Assembeled everything and ran my xbox. Booted correctly. Booted COD4, opening scene worked flawlessly.
I will play Assassin's Creed in 20 mins and will let you know.

So I take it that playing with height of washers (1, vs 2 vs 3 vs 4 washers) fixes 2RRoD

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: t3chth1rt33n on November 21, 2007, 08:51:00 PM

this is probably a really stupid question, but do the screws need to go through the metal case?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jm01dc on November 21, 2007, 11:01:00 PM

Tried it tonight... all home depot had were .8 x 12 machine screws, so I used those along with the 2/2 washers... Took about 3-4 minutes to go from 3 to 2 red lights. Still giving me the RLOD though

Any tips or ideas? Seems like people either add or remove washers and tighten/loosen the screws?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on November 21, 2007, 11:42:00 PM

QUOTE(t3chth1rt33n @ Nov 21 2007, 10:27 PM)

this is probably a really stupid question, but do the screws need to go through the metal case?

Not unless you're doing RBJTech's method

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jm01dc on November 22, 2007, 10:57:00 AM

So I wake up today motivated to take it apart and try again. My friend told me his didn't work the first time, his coworker took it apart, and just put it back together the same way and it worked. Well, I figure ehh may as well heatgun the mobo. So I did, putting foil over the plastic parts and moving the heatgun continuously not letting any area get too hot. Then let it gradually cool down, and put a fan on it to cool down. Then I put the heatsink back over the GPU and tightened the screws tight this time (except for the one screw which didn't have any washers on the top side of the mobo. So I put it all back together. Green lights FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Skate is in the drive right now, just testing out the 360. I honestly can't believe its working (I have to say the heatgun had alot to do with it). Let me also say that the 360 is pretttttty durable

If you have a heatgun, go ahead and do that in addition to the xclamps. The overheat method might not be enough. I thought of this because of flippy10's website where he goes through everything, and advises that a heatgun job is a good idea right before you do the xclamp replacement.

Happy thanksgiving everyone

And by the way, I used ceramique instead of AS5... ceramique is actually a very good compound from my experience, and its cheaper (and still made by artic silver).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: evill_e on November 25, 2007, 12:21:00 PM

Hi, I tried this fix last night. Good guide, couldn't have done it without it. Now here's my results:

Once I had my system back together after overheating it, it would give me the red lights all over again when I tried the start the game up. I'm guessing the reason why it was doing it was because I was using washers that were too large, because I had a hard time finding the proper size washers.

So I went out today and found the right size washers (more trouble than I thought.) I used one metal washer on the bottom, and two metal washers on top (couldn't find nylon washers). I snugged up the screws and plugged in the dvd drive to overheat it again, but my 3RLOD were gone and I was on the dashboard. Do I not have to overheat it a second time to get it working?

Anyway, it's working so far! I'll update if anything happens. Thanks again!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: doctordoomfury16 on November 25, 2007, 08:45:00 PM

I was able to reduce the 3RLOD to two, when I boot my console it just shows 2 red lights. My question is: is there an alternative for the arctic silver thermal compound? Because here in the philippines i am only able to find what is called "Silicon Compound", it is white in color and has a consistency similar to that of a facial cream.
Your opinions will be greatly appreciated. thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Frost_Byte on November 26, 2007, 01:15:00 PM

Now I don't have the 3RLOD, I just can't get video. I hear my 360 boot up, but that is it. I think I read something earlier in this thread, that this 3RLOD, could fix my problem. Has anybody seen or read about this? Please Advise

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on November 27, 2007, 09:29:00 AM

QUOTE(doctordoomfury16 @ Nov 25 2007, 10:21 PM)

when I boot my console it just shows 2 red lights. My question is: is there an alternative for the arctic silver thermal compound?

If you get the two red lights immediately upon powering the xbox - your heatsinks most likely aren't making good contact with the GPU / CPU dies (therefore overheating instantly). Find a site online that will ship Artic Silver to the Phillipines, cause it's that much better.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: doctordoomfury16 on November 28, 2007, 06:42:00 AM

regarding my problem, when i snug the screws tightly, 3RLOD show up, then i decided to loosen the screws a little bit, 2 red lights show up immediately after i turn on the console, any advice? thanks..

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jm01dc on November 28, 2007, 09:50:00 AM

QUOTE(doctordoomfury16 @ Nov 28 2007, 03:18 PM)

Lawdawg answered your question/problem 2 posts up from this one. Basically you need to tighten the screws becuase if you're getting 2 red lights almost immediately, it means the heatsink isn't making good contact (aka the screws are too loose). Tighten them up, get the 3 RLOD, then overheat the 360 like you're supposed to, then perhaps tighten them more. If I were you, I would heat gun the mobo (use safety and caution... steady heat and cover plastic parts with aluminum foil). Then put the heatsinks back on and boot up. In my opinion, the overheat described in lawdawg's tutorial might not be enough for some people, and thus a 5-10 minute careful heatgun job should do the trick.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Snake Plisken on November 28, 2007, 04:39:00 PM

Ok interesting issue here I have tried this method 3 times, it works fine if I play the box every day, but if I leave it say for a week without playing I get screen freeze near the beginning of games and then when I repower I get 3RODS immediately, I have also done the shroud mod to allow extra cooling on the GPU HS, and it seems to be working fine as the heat coming out of the GPU fan is very hot, so can't figure this one out, anyone any ideas?

Thanks

Snake

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: boundedseven on November 29, 2007, 12:09:00 AM

So I got 3RRODs after 1.5 years thinking my 360 might be invincible. Used Lawdawg's X-Clamp method and it worked fine after an hour's testing

However my dad who is an electronics engineer (designs PCB boards) helped me with the process and made a few adjustments after I showed him the tutorial

Please advise if these adjustments could cause issues

1. Used slightly thicker rubber washers on all four screws of the GPU heatsink only underneath the mobo. Haven't used any metal washers at all or rubber washers at the top. Supposedly contact with heatsink would improve if there are no washers at the top of mobo.

2. There are no washers on the cpu screws. Screws are directly connected to mobo and CPU headsink to improve contact

3. All screws have been moderately tightened only before the 2 min overheat. After cooldown the 360 worked fine so we felt additional tightening was not needed.

4. The mobo on the left side (near AV connector) seems slight raised as the GPU screws have rubber washers while CPU screws have none. Hence when I connect the AV cord, I have to slightly bend the mobo down.

Thanks lawdawg0931 for the kick ass tutorial.

This post has been edited by boundedseven: Nov 29 2007, 08:13 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: notrain on November 30, 2007, 07:49:00 AM

My Box is still running after 6 Months of doing lawdawgs Xclamp Mod. Fixed a 0020 on the first attempt. Didn't even freeze once since I modded, rockstable. Thanks again dude.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: h0tsauc3 on November 30, 2007, 10:11:00 AM

Okay, I did the heatgun, and the x-clamp fix...still get RROd?!?! One thing I noticed is that it takes about 4 min for my overheat to happen, is that normal?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: teamgod on December 01, 2007, 10:07:00 AM

Just wanted to say I just completed lawdawg's method and everything seems fine, however I'm getting the "turbo fans" problem. The fans seem to start flying at hyper speed right when the console is booted. I played guitar hero 3 for about 20 minutes and the fans were at like 100%. Not sure if this is the game or the 360 that is causing this.

I've read that the screws might be too tight.. if I loosen them will the turbo fans problem dissapear?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: chazz01 on December 01, 2007, 12:27:00 PM

QUOTE(t3chth1rt33n @ Nov 22 2007, 05:27 AM)

this is probably a really stupid question, but do the screws need to go through the metal case?

This is not a stupid question. I fixed mine using these tuts but I didn't go threw the case. I went threw the board instead and it works great no heat problems.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: h0tsauc3 on December 02, 2007, 02:59:00 PM

QUOTE(h0tsauc3 @ Nov 30 2007, 10:11 AM)

Okay, I did the heatgun, and the x-clamp fix...still get RROd?!?! One thing I noticed is that it takes about 4 min for my overheat to happen, is that normal?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: digitalhigh on December 03, 2007, 10:09:00 PM

Dumb question...but I was just thinking after doing this install twice, and I was wondering...

Why couldn't you just leave the x-clamps off, but keep the bolts that attach to the heatsinks on. Then use the original black screws to re-secure the heatsinks to the cage. That way the spacing is dead-on, you don't have to buy any extra parts, and it's a little bit easier than trying to get all the screws and washers in by yourself.

I don't know why it shouldn't work...That way there's no risk of over-tightening the heatsinks either.

Any ideas why it wouldn't work?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: danny87 on December 04, 2007, 01:12:00 AM

hi. i treid to fix my xbox and i've followed the guide, but now my 360 turns on but the dvd drive and fans won't work, i still get the three red lights. can i get some help please?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: babloo on December 04, 2007, 04:56:00 PM

hi everyone hope u all are enjoying ur xbox 360iez plz help me out so i could join the sucess club

i live in pakistan and things are getting worse day by day so i wanted to know am using fiber washers instead of nylon i need to know the thickness of the washers and how much thickness should be altogether which would not create a gap between the chips and heatsink like for example 2 on top and 2 on bottom each having a 1mm thickness meaning =4mm . wanted to know the exact thickness and can i use fiber instead of nylon ? on the other hand am using steel any body plz guide me on this matter and also need to know about the screws where should i start measuring the screw from the top to bottom or from the threads to bottom too many questions but am in already a lot of mess .

thankyou very much hoping for a quick anwser
and this was mY first post

so tc all
regards
rehan

This post has been edited by babloo: Dec 5 2007, 01:07 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wrxblaze on December 05, 2007, 01:41:00 AM

Thanks alot lawdawg0931 the 360 is up and running.

I had to improvise a little, I used Antec silver formula 5 themal paste, which is probably very similiar to artic silver. Also I could only find really thick platic wasers that barely fit on the screws, I literally had to turn them on the screw first. There is one thing that I am a little worried about, I could only use three washers a hole, as I left to much of a gap when I used all 4, so I have a plastic washer (I'm pretty sure it's a hard plastic and not nylon) between the heatsink and the mobo. I just hope that the heatsink doesn't get overly hot that the washer melts or flatens out making the bolts lose there tension on the heatsink. So far so good, knock on wood.

On a side note, I noticed a small chunck of what looked to be solder on the cpu heatsink. It wasn't like the foil on the GPU heatsing it was an actual chunk of sometihing. I had to scrape it of with brass bsr so I didn't scratch the bottom of the heatsink. It definitely didn't help make a flat contact with chip.

Anyway again I appreciate your write up, and hopefully get some more juice out of the 360.

Thanks Kyle.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: neworder on December 05, 2007, 08:56:00 AM

My xbox broken down in March this year and I use the llawdawgs Xclamp Mod. that worked for about 3 month no problem, then freezing started to happened in middle of game. so I took apart and redo it again. but it don't work as good as the first time, after 20 min of game play it freezed again. I even got the Talismoon Whisper Fan. I don't know know what to do now, I am thinking of buying a new 360, can I still play my backup (self own) game if I swap my current LG drive to the new system, will it work?

thanks in advance for all your help.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: HipHopHead on December 05, 2007, 09:32:00 AM

Another successful fix!

Only played for a couple hours last night after I got it back together but so far so good.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: juggaloj8269 on December 07, 2007, 05:53:00 PM

QUOTE(exeon @ Nov 21 2007, 09:46 PM)

After applying the fix the called for 4 washers, got 2 red lights immediately, and fan would go "turbo". then tried this method of only 2 washers per screw.....worked like a charm!!! 2 hrs into playing and still going strong!! Thanx to everyone for their help and info. all screws/washers bought at local hardware store, got thermal compound from radio shack....all in all roughly $15. Take that M$!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: elocin671 on December 07, 2007, 07:29:00 PM

QUOTE(digitalhigh @ Dec 4 2007, 03:09 PM)

the reason is... the screws that hold the xclamps arent fully threaded. they are simply legs that are secured by the x-clamp. so in order to do that you will need to fully thread the legs of the original screw with a tap and die set. tortuga has done this already and has made a tutorial about it. its a great fix.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Snake Plisken on December 08, 2007, 07:03:00 PM

Ok my 360 has been alive and well for the last 7 days, what I have done differently is add 2 washers to bottom, so that there are 2 on top and 2 on bottom, tighten them loosely,did the overheat for 3 minutes, then put the short screws back in but did not tighten them fully down, I get the impression that when fully tightened there might be a chance of some flexing of the mothedboard due to the head of the screws. I've put it back together and played it on Sat/Sun/Mon/Tues then left it until today (sat) and its still working, so maybe its 4th time lucky for Snake (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This post has been edited by Snake Plisken: Dec 9 2007, 03:04 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: doctordoomfury16 on December 08, 2007, 07:33:00 PM

Is that Arctic Silver on the sides of the CPU and GPU dies? the brown or black gooey thing? or is it epoxy resin?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ivota on December 09, 2007, 03:01:00 AM

I used Lawdawg0931's Method.
My x360 worked fine 6 months, now It has 3RROD again.
I opened x360, and loose screws, wait overheating, tight screws very strong.
X360 gave me error 3RROD (0001), I losse screws a little, x360 worked ok.
But after a few hours x360 freezes picture on TV. NO 3RROD, but after a few restarts x360gave me 3RROD.
If I strong tight screws then X360 gave me error. What is a problem? washers?

Now I put old CPU-xbox360 heatsink on GPU, then I put out DVD-rom outside. I made power dvd wire longer, and use PC SATA cable.
I put 80mm fan for coolling GPU heatsink.
Now x360 Works ok. But...???

sorry for English

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: absami on December 11, 2007, 09:28:00 AM

i m able to see green lights by this method but the freezing wont stop on dashboard? what to do next?

This post has been edited by absami: Dec 11 2007, 05:40 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ampedXR on December 11, 2007, 07:48:00 PM

Well

Sucks to be me LOL

I recently got the red rings so I tried this method, and when I turn it on it goes straight to 2 red lights, which I understand is a heating issue?

I took the heatsink off, checked to make sure the thermal paste is spread perfectly and it is. The heatsink seems to be touching just fine.

Is there somthing else I am overlooking? The 2 lights come on within a couple seconds of turning on and to the touch the heatsinks arent even warming up! Usually the 2 lights just flash and the fans turn off. Any ideas?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on December 13, 2007, 09:40:00 AM

QUOTE(ampedXR @ Dec 11 2007, 09:24 PM)

The 2 lights come on within a couple seconds of turning on and to the touch the heatsinks arent even warming up!

That would make sense....two lights immediately - good chance it's because the heatsinks aren't making good contact with the GPU/CPU dies. Also would be the reason the heatsinks aren't getting hot. Try a different washer number/combination. Look at the AS5 imprint on the dies to ensure good contact.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: doctordoomfury16 on December 14, 2007, 08:35:00 PM

Here's the story for me so far..

I have replaced the x-clamps, used no washers underneath or above the board.
It worked fine, shows green lights when i boot up the console.
I was able to play for 3 minutes or so then 2 red lights show up.
I put silicon compound on the GPU and CPU dies.
I boot it up again, still fine, and was able to play for 5 minutes or so.
Then I decided to clean the heatsink and GPU and CPU dies, removed residues of thermal compound underneath the heatsinks, on top of the dies and also on the sides of the dies (black gooey thing).
When I turned the console on, 3RLOD.
I let the console to overheat, about 2-3 minutes then tightened the screws.
I also noticed that the board is somewhat bent, and when i look under the board, there is a curve or lump where the CPU and GPU are soldered.

I placed 1 washer underneath the board, 2 washers above the board.
When I boot the console, still shows 3RLOD for about 3 seconds then 2RLOD.

So, was it wrong for me to clean the procesors of any residues of thermal compound?
What should I do now? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dss25 on December 19, 2007, 02:08:00 AM

ugh. just spent 8 hours trying to get this to work and my 360 is still broken. took it apart and put it together again a couple times hoping i would catch something id miss.

when i turn it on the fans start running, then within 3 seconds the fans turn off 2 red lights come on.

reading the reply a couple posts above says to check the as5 imprint for good contact? whats that referring to. Ill try to look it up but its 2 am and im beat for the day, ill check back tomorrow and do some more research I guess.

edit: oh, arctic silver 5. i see.

This post has been edited by dss25: Dec 19 2007, 10:10 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dss25 on February 02, 2020, 04:44:00 PM

success!

I realized that I hadnt aplied any compound to the third chip. probably because MS didnt have any on it, so I didnt have to clean it and I dont know i just ignored it somehow. but in any case, after putting some on there and being more careful to evenly screw in everything and not too tight, it worked.

of course, then the dvd drive wouldnt read anything and I had to open it yet again to attach a cable that i had forgotten.

but finally after doing that again, it now works and is running fine. thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pchx on December 19, 2007, 09:37:00 PM

SUCCESS!!!!

firist of all, thanks to LAWDAWG for his tutorial, and people that share his expericenses.

i did the xclamp for the GPU only.

first i cleaned the DIE and aplied AS5, used nylon and metal washer under the board , lefit it cook for 3 mintues. and it didnt work. i was applaying way to much force and the board bended.

tried different conbinations.

Then , i applied more AS5 and used 1 nylon under the board and 1 nylon on the bard. tighten it up firmly and unplugged the FAn cooler and left it cooking for 15 mintues or so so it would overheats, i let it cool down. put the drive and it work

PS: the screws were to big so i had to take off some parts of the heatsink so the screws would pass trough. didnt use a snug. becuase they fit perfecly.

FOR some reason When i close the case it would overheat :S and show me 2 lights. i took off 2 BIG scrws and lose up the rest and closed the xbox 360

WORKED.

3 hours playing fifa not a glitch, thanks agian!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SonicPower on February 03, 2020, 12:47:00 AM

My 8-month x-clampless Xbox 360 has now failed using Lawdawg's method. I'm surprised it lasted this long.

People, what do you suggest I do?

Redo the X-Clamp method using RBJTech's?

If I do that, which one is better for this situation: MKI or MKIII?

Responses will be appreciated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: daytona on February 03, 2020, 11:02:00 AM

Do you guys do this on the new 360 premiums with the hdmi? Or is this issue resolved on the new systems?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: planetik on December 20, 2007, 11:32:00 PM

I have half a success...
The 3ROL are gone, but the GPU is overheating pretty badly.
As soon as I leave the dashboard to a game (Halo 3) the fans blow really loudly and after 10 minutes, it goes to a 2ROL. The GPU heatsink becomes hot and the AS5 I put on it is pretty even and is making contact with the chips, so it's probably not seating issues - but you never know.
The CPU heatsink is nice and cool however...

Can someone help me out?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: chapsy on December 23, 2007, 10:55:00 AM

Hello all i have done the lawdawgs method 2day and when i turn it on it turns on with green everytime. then when the heatsink warms up it turns to 2red lights.

sorry if you have had this question lot times but im to frustrated to read throught every answer

Thanks :-)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Rando81 on December 23, 2007, 01:43:00 PM

my story:
i did x clamp fix (had 3rlod with error code 0102) before few days and it worked flawlessly untill today when i opened my console again to do the vga port mod (donno what was wrong with me

) but when i tried to test it I recieved 3rlod again but now with error code 0110, any ideas what to do next please cuz I'm really frustrated now

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: elocin671 on December 23, 2007, 07:45:00 PM

QUOTE(planetik @ Dec 21 2007, 05:08 PM)

you dont want the heatsinks "nice and cool". you want them nice and warm/hot. like a comfortable hot where you can touch it with your finger and not get burned(while its idle in dashboard, after or during a game its a diferent story). I think you appllied too much thermal paste, or your cpu heatsink isnt making good contact with the die.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: aredd on December 27, 2007, 11:27:00 PM

Im having trouble fixing my xbox. I fixed one and have another thats not working. Every method we try it goes to 3 red rings after the dvd drive loads up like we didnt do anything. someone please help!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: aredd on December 28, 2007, 10:45:00 AM

QUOTE(aredd @ Dec 28 2007, 02:03 AM)

ok now i have 1 nylon washer on each side and the 3RLOD came up faster than with the normal set-up..im gunna try three washers each side next and then if that doesnt work im clueless..should i keep clean ing thermal compound and replacing with new

QUOTE(aredd @ Dec 28 2007, 02:03 AM)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FoneFreak on December 31, 2007, 09:37:00 AM

Success using lawdogs method BUT my fans are continuously spinning fast, can anybody help or advise me please?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FoneFreak on December 31, 2007, 01:07:00 PM

QUOTE(FoneFreak @ Dec 31 2007, 07:13 PM)

Success using lawdogs method BUT my fans are continuously spinning fast, can anybody help or advise me please?

fixed now, turns out the CPU was over heating!!. All sorted now althou the 360 is blowing out HOT air from the back is this normal??

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: fokia on January 02, 2008, 07:35:00 AM

QUOTE(FoneFreak @ Dec 31 2007, 08:43 PM)

fixed now, turns out the CPU was over heating!!. All sorted now althou the 360 is blowing out HOT air from the back is this normal??

HOT AIR is good! It means that the heat generated by the GPU/CPU is passing from the heatsink to air and out of the box! If the fans are running normal now it means that its not over-heating...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: tw1sted demon on January 02, 2008, 01:14:00 PM

Hi

I'm considering doing this fix soon...just got a few questions....

I'm not sure what is meant in the guide when it says about waiting til the xbox gets 2 red lights. Do I wait til it gets 2 red lights, wait 2 more minutes then turn it off or turn it off straight away when it gets the 2 red lights?

Also, when I have done the fix, if I find the fans to be running stupidly loud does that mean that something is not right and the xbox is struggling to stay cool?

Thanks in advance

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: BurnDown on January 02, 2008, 01:35:00 PM

QUOTE(tw1sted demon @ Jan 2 2008, 08:50 PM)

I'm not sure what is meant in the guide when it says about waiting til the xbox gets 2 red lights. Do I wait til it gets 2 red lights, wait 2 more minutes then turn it off or turn it off straight away when it gets the 2 red lights?

2 red lights simply means that the console is overheating. The idea is to turn the xbox on without the fans plugged in, meaning the CPU and GPU will get hotter than they are meant to. They eventually get so hot the they will soften the solder on the board, and in theory this will fix any breaks in the solder, eliminating the 3 red lights. We wait until the 360 says its overheating (2 red lights), then an extra 2 minutes. After this time, turn the console off and wait for it to cool down completely.

Ever heard of the heat gun fix? Basically this is the same idea, just slightly safer. To be honest, both methods should be avoided as they can cause more damage than good, but in some cases they are the only way to get a console working after the 3 red lights.

QUOTE(tw1sted demon @ Jan 2 2008, 08:50 PM)

Also, when I have done the fix, if I find the fans to be running stupidly loud does that mean that something is not right and the xbox is struggling to stay cool?

More than likely. The x-clamp replacement should improve your 360's cooling, not make it worse. If fans are running fast then there is probably something wrong. Things to check in this situation are if your bolts are tight enough, if you have too many washers, too much thermal paste, etc.

Hope that helps.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: tw1sted demon on January 03, 2008, 02:41:00 AM

Thanks!

Havn't done it yet, just heard someone else saying their fans were going crazy after doing it and wanted to know what the cause was...

Got my bits on order and will give it a go, cheers for the advice

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wippy72 on January 04, 2008, 12:49:00 PM

this method worked well for me after replaced using screws and washers from B&Q m5 x 10 screws and m5 flat washers
i could not get hold of any nylon or other non conductive washers so i just used 2 m5 zinc washers on cpu side and none on other reapplied thermal paste with some AS5 tighten slightly did ther overheat to melt solder left 2 minutes after 2 red lights came up shut off tightened up as much as possible then left to cool rebooted and all is well (touch wood) been good since new years eve and played for hours on end some occasions no signs of 3ROD or bad gfx
if you have error 0102 and 3ROD i reccomend this

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mickey797 on January 07, 2008, 06:54:00 AM

Hey Guys,

Got the 3RRoD a few days back. Am stopping into Lowe's today to try out this fix. Got the part #'s for all the parts - only one question I have is - is there any Specific Screwdriver or Plier or Wrench that I need for all of this operation. I ONLY have the Torx Screwdriver that opens up those 6 screws when you're opening your 360 to flash it - I DON"T HAVE any other kind of Screwdriver or plier or anything at all. While I'm at Lowe's - I can pickup whatever is needed - so I'll really appreciate if someone can give me an idea of any other Necessary tools that I may require to OPEN the box or DISSEMBLE the unit.

THANKS!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: tw1sted demon on January 07, 2008, 12:45:00 PM

Well, I've just finished mine and working well now

Had a few problems and also managed to knock a transistor half off whilst getting the x-clamps off so be careful! Surprisingly, it's working OK now. I'm not very good at DIY stuff....

QUOTE

As for the equipment, you'll need a Torx-10 and Torx-8 screwdriver...I think the outside screws are Torx-10 so you've got one of them but to get the motherboard away from the shell you need a Torx-8. You could also do with some pointy pliers to get the X-Clamps off with...atleast that's what I used....I used some like these...

http://www.alwayshob...t...w=215&h=215

Hope that helps!

One other thing I noticed was how much the plastic cover running from the heatsinks to the fans actually does. When I ran the 360 without the cover on but the fans running it only lasts about 5 mins before overheating...who would of thought a little bit of plastic could make all that difference...I guess in hindsight it makes sense though!

Thanks for this method Lawdawg, lets just hope my 360 keeps on going now!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mickey797 on January 07, 2008, 01:51:00 PM

QUOTE(tw1sted demon @ Jan 7 2008, 09:21 PM)

Well, I've just finished mine and working well now

Had a few problems and also managed to knock a transistor half off whilst getting the x-clamps off so be careful! Surprisingly, it's working OK now. I'm not very good at DIY stuff....

As for the equipment, you'll need a Torx-10 and Torx-8 screwdriver...I think the outside screws are Torx-10 so you've got one of them but to get the motherboard away from the shell you need a Torx-8. You could also do with some pointy pliers to get the X-Clamps off with...atleast that's what I used....I used some like these...

Awesome - Congrats man! Sounds good. I'm excited - doing mine today evening.
I'll be careful of those transistors - I've heard other people who knocked those off as well. I guess patience is going to be the key.

I have the Torx set, definitely Torx-10, I'm imaging I have 8 as well.
I'll probably pick up those pointy pliers at Lowe's while I'm there.

Thanks for all the advice, photograph & everything, appreciate it!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: brandogg on January 07, 2008, 02:16:00 PM

I can't tell you exactly what happened, but that looks like a crack going through that brown spot, which is break all of those traces. Could it be alcohol from removing the old thermal paste?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FFSmasher on January 08, 2008, 02:05:00 PM

3RROD after playing for 5 minutes one day. Sometimes it would say E-79 which is related to the hard-drive, but the HD wasn't even plugged in and it would get it. Anyways....

Used Lawdawg's method and boom it's working.

Thank you very much for the tutorial. The hardest part was locating the screws at lowes! (and removing the thermal paste which looked like someone stuck a piece of gum on the chips. I used wd-40, and then alcohol. The wd-40 worked good. Took me about an hour to get all the crap off.

Again, thank you very much.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kt6192003 on January 08, 2008, 09:11:00 PM

Anyone know how thick the nylon washers actually are? I found a whole bunch of different thickness sizes for #10 nylon flat washers but I'm not sure which one to get. Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Carkus on January 09, 2008, 06:20:00 AM

My xbox 360 is still going strong after performing this fix (had to redo it a couple of times since, but its still working).

For those that are interested.. My guide, based on Lawdawg's method, has now moved to http://3rlod.cark.us with higher res images and clickable thumbnails. Easier to maintain compared to the old PDF.

Cheers.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FoneFreak on January 09, 2008, 08:14:00 AM

QUOTE(kt6192003 @ Jan 9 2008, 06:47 AM)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: icoX on January 12, 2008, 05:33:00 AM

hi guys, i followed the tutorial and done the x-clamp fix.. now my 360 is alive again. theres one problem tho.. i notice only 1 of the 2 fan is spinning. any idea why is this so?? is it normal?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: icoX on January 12, 2008, 09:46:00 AM

*can't edit??*

**Update

tried taking out the fan and powering up using 9v battery.. both fan worked.. so its not the fan..

also took multimeter to check the fan connector on the xbox , each point showed voltage, theres total four points but both of them showed lesser voltage then the other (10+ v vs 6+v iirc).

Everything is working fine except one of the fans is not turning.. what could i do?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaddyLongLegs on January 13, 2008, 05:36:00 PM

My Lowe's by me had all the part #'s in stock, just not enough of them

I went to their website and they don't have any of that stuff for sale on their. Neither does the company who makes them (Hillman).

Is there a place online I can order them by the dozens?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: brandogg on January 13, 2008, 06:05:00 PM

Ace hardware has all the parts too. FFSmasher - E79 may have something to do with the HDD, but I think sometimes the 360 throws the wrong error at you. It happened to me as well in the past, with and without the HDD in place.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DaddyLongLegs on January 14, 2008, 02:22:00 AM

QUOTE(brandogg @ Jan 14 2008, 02:41 AM)

Ace hardware has all the parts too.

What are the model numbers or part numbers so I can go there? There's one right near my house.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: brandogg on January 14, 2008, 07:59:00 AM

I don't know about the actual part numbers, but the sizes are all you need to know.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on January 14, 2008, 08:57:00 PM

Was the AS5 spread out evenly on the CPU & GPU? How long after you powered on did it take for the 3 lights to turn to 2 red lights? It sounds like it got too hot, too fast - & powered off. Check and make sure the AS5 was spread completely across both chips, and that the heatsinks were making good contact on the dies..not the washers. Might need to reduce the washers height just under the h/s. You do have the video plug connected right? It will auto-off without the video connector being connected.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on January 15, 2008, 06:03:00 AM

Here is my experiences with fixing the RROD problem following LawDawg's guide (Much ass grassy ass, by the way, LD

)

Keep in mind that, up until this point, I was a complete 360 virgin..

OK, following the suggested tutorials, I was able to easily disassemble my 360. One minor hiccup came when I had some extra parts, I couldn't ID. Got help from Strict Puppet on that (many thanx)

So, I clean the gunk off the heat sinks and chips. Probably should have done a better job, but I was impatient, I admit.. Put the heat sinks back on sans X-Clamps.. Did a partial reassemble and powered up. First time it powered up, I was in the green, but no video. I powered down and then back up and got the 3 red LEDs. But they were blinking. I didn't recall if the original RROD problem had solid LEDs or blinking ones. I pressed on. Let them blink for about 3-5 mins. Never saw only the 2 Left LEDs that would indicate it's over heated.. I powered off, then powered back up.

Ahhhhhh, there are the 2 left LEDs. Still blinking, but definitely the indicated sign. I timed it for 2.5 minutes (It was really cold last night here so I figured I would give it an extra 30 seconds) Powered down, disassembled and re-tightened the heat sinks...

Let it sit for about an hour to cool down. Completely reassembled the 360, took a deep breath and powered up...

WOOT!!!!

Happy Days!!!

I haven't been able to check it under load as of yet, but I have had it powered up and just sitting there for the last couple hours and it seems to be A-OK...

So, I am guessing you can count this as a +1 in the THE FIX WORKS column!

Thanx LawDawg....

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on January 15, 2008, 05:53:00 PM

Just to add another 2 cents, I did two more 360s today...

Were fixed flawlessly...

LD is da man!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: enkur on January 15, 2008, 10:27:00 PM

I wanted to add that I was able to follow the procedure as lawdawg outlined and I am happy to report that my xbox 360 is back to life.

I had given up hope and even went out and bought a new Arcade only to find the dreaded v0079fl drive. After mucking with the passkey and not getting that drive to work (couldnt properly solder those tiny wires), I thought let me search around and see if there is another way to revive my old system. Lo and behold I came across this thread... which some how I missed all this time.

The whole process took perhaps less than an hour and the system seems to be working great. In fact when I followed the procedure to first start the system to heat it up .. it already was showing green with no red lights. Then after 2 minutes the the 2 red lights came on at which time I shut down the system and put everything back together after letting it cool down.

Thank you lawdawg for saving my system.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lqz02 on January 16, 2008, 04:37:00 PM

Ok upon trial and error
for some odd reason EVERYTIME i tightened down 10m screws i got RROD error
but while it was loose i was getting overheating
so what i did was leave the screws loose after 2 min of overheating. i did not touch anything after that.
put everything back together and it worked no overheating, no more RROD.
its been on for...2 hours now and no problems =D i am very pleased
I am thinking my mobo is so warped that when tightened up the cpu/gpu looses contact when they are very tight. i noticed i had a VERY HARD time putting the mobo back into the metal case because i had to force the mobo down to meet up with metal case screw hole.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TeringJantje on January 18, 2008, 04:22:00 PM

Tried it today and it's back alive

. Very happy now. Thanx for the great tutorial.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Sidewinder007z on January 18, 2008, 11:56:00 PM

Just an update.....refitted my mod on September 22nd 2007. Since then the 360 has run like a champ. Have even stressed tested it and left on demos for 16 hours straight (forgot it was on).
Thanks for all the info!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: repset on January 19, 2008, 12:25:00 AM

Well I posted this in the success thread already but I'll post here too. This is the second time Ive used lawdawgs x clamp replacement and it worked great. Had some over heating problems and the fans were running high. It's now back to normal.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: thecresta on January 20, 2008, 09:34:00 AM

QUOTE(thecresta @ Jan 7 2008, 09:33 PM)

Found the following while trying to perform the fix. Anybody got any idea what has happened here? I can only imagine the GPU heatsink was actually transferring heat to the motherboard!

Doesn't look promising really. I tried the X-clamp fix but it didn't work. Will try reseating everything just to be sure, but I reckon I'm screwed...

No red lights! YIPPY KAY YAY MICRO-F**KERS!

And to think I'd almost given on it...

1 hour and no blips so far - fingers crossed!

Thanks everybody - Especially Lawdawg0931!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: gamesfreak on January 20, 2008, 11:46:00 AM

PLEASE HELP ME

Ok here's my story in brief.

Initial State error 0022(RROD used to come after a long duration after power switched on - 30 sec or so)

Followed Lawdawgs method. Had pretty much exact tools for the job. Atleast im 100% sure on the M5 10mm bolts. Washers were used as indicated in the method(2 above and 2 below).

1st boot attempt - immediate 2 red lights.Overheating allowed to occur.
2nd boot attempt - 0020(Thank god atleast the error code has changed.

Tightened the bolts under the cpu and loosed them under the gpu(just thought it would reduce flexing or something)

3rd attempt - BOOTS UP PROPER. YAY. Gamed for 10 min. decided to reboot for second test.

4th attempt. - BACK TO 0022(long wait for the rrod)

- Please help me. What could be the problem. Its not working now.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: gamesfreak on January 20, 2008, 12:24:00 PM

QUOTE(gamesfreak @ Jan 20 2008, 08:22 PM)

- Please help me. What could be the problem. Its not working now.

Update :- Without fiddling with the cpu bolts ( tight) and only modifying the amount by which the gpu bolts are screwed on i am being able to obtain the following 2 error codes.

GPU bolts tight - 0020
GPU bolts little looser( about 1,1.5 turn away from tightness) - 0022

Im not being able to get any intermediate value wherein it boots up without either of these 2 error codes.
Can someone with a complete understanding of the logic behind xclamp suggest how to get the 360 working again, and also how to keep it in a running condition there on in.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sammydad1 on January 21, 2008, 01:38:00 AM

Games...

Have you tried the 12 Penny fix...refer to the thread...its very large, but is very helpful to many, myself included as of tonite...

Essentially it uses the pennys to provide stabilizing force against the bottom of the motherboard as you tighten the XClamp (or replacement Screws) in to place....

My Xclamp fix only worked for a short while before it went back to 3ROD...now with pennys in place and the board remounted in the chassis...it has been running for a couple-few hours straight....much longer than it would after my first XClamp fix effort.....

It seems that each of these fixes can work for some folks and wont work for others but then maybe when used in combination they will work for still yet others....and then some folks are likely SOL and their board is actually broken and needs replaced.

Sorry if I am repeating myself....

SD1

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on January 22, 2008, 12:00:00 AM

QUOTE(gamesfreak @ Jan 20 2008, 01:22 PM)

1st boot attempt - immediate 2 red lights.Overheating allowed to occur.

This is the part that bothers me... It should not give two lights immediately, this indicates that the heatsinks are not making good contact with the dies (99 % of the time). Check the AS5 thermal paste for proper spreading - indicating that the h/s are in fact sitting on the dies... not the washers. If the h/s are not seated well, none of the fixes (12 penny, erasure ...etc) will help!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: neejoh on January 22, 2008, 09:45:00 AM

Hey,

Thanks for this great tutorial. I've applied it to my RROD 360. But now after reassembling the 360 again i get 0012 error. I see the bootup logo, and the coolers starts to spin real hard and it turns itself off. This is due overheating the list says. I've tried a few times reattaching the cpu and gpu cooler but it keeps saying 0012.

Same as the user above so i think?

Any idea's suggestions?

(atleast i don't have the RROD anymore

)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: neejoh on January 22, 2008, 11:02:00 AM

QUOTE(neejoh @ Jan 22 2008, 06:21 PM)

)

Seems like my rings for the screws where a bit bigger, and there was to much space between the gpu and the cooler. I removed 1 ring. and now its working fine again. I only have to test it with a game.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: gamesfreak on January 22, 2008, 08:39:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jan 22 2008, 08:36 AM)

Thanks lawdawg, but i should have posted earlier that my 360 is up and running again.
As i had posted in my last post, the error kept shifting between 0020(when it was overtight) to 0022(when it was loose).
I finally managed to find the correct balance and have gotten the 360 working. Tested it for a couple of hours and seems fine.

Now i really want your frank opinion on the same. Is this going to be a permanent fix, cause i'm pondering on the idea of disposing this one and buying one of the falcon 360's. However resale value of my 360 isn't high enough, therefore i will still be taking nearly a 200$ hit to get one of the newer 360's.
Should this fix be a permanent one, i shall happily continue gaming on it. Waiting for your reply.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ybother on January 23, 2008, 10:06:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 22 2007, 09:41 PM)

do these methods fix the blank video problem?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on January 23, 2008, 03:50:00 PM

Question...

I did one RROD fix, but I used the wrong sized washers.

After an hour or so of play, the screen froze up and a multi-colored checkerboard pattern.. A reboot gave me an E-74 error.

After pulling apart the 360 and putting in the correct sized washers, I still got the E-74 error..

Did I toast something??

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on January 23, 2008, 05:09:00 PM

I doubt it. Checker board graphics are common problems when the GPU overheats. If you have to pull it apart, then you need to redo all aspects of the fix. Clean the dies, re-apply AS5, check for proper spacing etc... You can't just change out the washers & put it back together. Just redo the fix, and go from there.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on January 23, 2008, 05:18:00 PM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jan 23 2008, 07:45 PM)

Thanx..

I am really hoping I can salvage it..

I'll start from scratch and see if I can get something.

Thanx again.

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on January 23, 2008, 06:17:00 PM

OK, this is really beginning to bug me..

I cleaned everything up real good. I even got a better "mirror shine" on the chips than I did before.

I re-applied the arctic silver, put everything back together and proceeded to the OVERHEAT phase.

Lo and behold, it booted up fine.. No E-74. With a little rejoicing, I let the thing run w/o fans, waiting for the dual left lights that indicated OVERHEAT. After a few minutes, I rebooted it and there was the E-74 error again..

So, I let things cool down, put together the fans and the white cover and hoped that everything was OK..

I powered up... It wasn't OK.. Still E-74...

So, I let things cool down some more... I pulled the GPU Heat Sink off, cleaned it up again, put the heat sink, fans and white fan cover back on and then powered up..

Worked fine..

Booted right up.. Woot!

Loaded up a game and it booted right into the game. So far, so good. Let it run for about 5 mins and then started seeing the video fritz up again..

Not sure what this tells me, but I have a feeling it can't be good...

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mjayp99 on January 24, 2008, 12:53:00 PM

I followed the instructions from Lawdawg,

I go from 0020 when the GPU screws are too tight to 0102 when they are loosened. Any suggestions? I bought this xBox broken, so I am unsure if it ever fell victim to the towel or heat gun...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on January 30, 2008, 07:34:00 PM

QUOTE(mjayp99 @ Jan 24 2008, 02:29 PM)

I am unsure if it ever fell victim to the towel or heat gun...

Do any of the caps look semi-melted? Assuming you cleaned off the old thermal paste, was it brown from excessive heat? Only thing I can suggest is to start completely over, and mess around with the number of washers - ensuring a proper seat on the CPU / GPU dies. And as always.....AS5 is a must!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on January 30, 2008, 08:04:00 PM

Hay Lawdawg

A couple of us are having some E-74 issues that may or may not be heat related.

Could you pop over to this thread....

http://forums.xbox-s...t...51&t=639254

.... and give your thoughts??

Many thanx...

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: eeboarder1984 on January 31, 2008, 10:07:00 AM

I performed this fix yesterday using the exact part numbers and followed the tutorial word for word. I used to get video freezing problems after about 10 minutes of play. Now, with the tutorial, I just get RROD every time. I also did the towel trick with no luck.

Any suggestions? Also, everyone is mentioning error codes. I have never seen any codes on my display. I just get a black screen and RROD.

Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: GothicGangstaX on February 04, 2008, 09:54:00 PM

I just wanna say that lawdog is an angel sent down from earth.cause i tried everything else in the book adn it didnt work.only taking out the "x clamps" did the trick.i dont really have a good use for them now.they dont make very good throwing stars...maybe bling.just playing.also,this is the first time i've ever had an xbox 360 cause my friend gave me the broken console for free.yay.so if any of you have any tips or recommendations,please let me know.I wanna know everything i can about this thing.

Another thing,i hear about microsoft banning modded boxes all the time,and i was wondering, cause i was interested in getting a backlit and more powerful fan,would they ban my account or box just because i put better cooling in the flipping thing?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on February 06, 2008, 02:22:00 PM

PING LawDawg (or anyone)

Let me lay out my understanding of what the 3 RROD problem really is...

It's my understanding that, due to the design flaw by MS, when the 360 overheats, certain solder connections liquify and become disconnected. This disconnection is what causes the 3 RROD problem.

Now, the fix (again, as I understand it) simply removes the pressure or warpage caused by the design flaw. Then, by overheating the unit, this causes the solder connections to re-liquify, re-connect and, without the warpage to impede them, makes good solid connections.

Is that an accurate assessment of the situation??

Assuming this is so, I have a question.

Is there anything else that can cause the 3 RROD indication??

Let me explain. I have a 360 that is giving me the 3 RROD problem. I have replaced the X-clamps and went thru the overheat process....

But after cool down, when I power up the 360, I still get the 3 RROD...

So, I am wondering if anything else can cause the 3 RROD problem, besides loose/broken connections.

Thanx

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: brandogg on February 06, 2008, 02:42:00 PM

Close, but no cigar. The solder becomes brittle and cracks, but does not flow (liquify as you say). Overheating the system without the bolts completely secured causes the board to flex (hopefully upwards), then, tightening the bolts sort of "locks" it in place. The 360 doesn't get anywhere near as hot as it would take to reflow lead-free solder (~430F). The system shuts down if the CPU gets to about 160F or so (according to some threads I've seen), and there's no way in Hello (Okay, maybe in Hell this could happen) that the GPU is getting 200+ degrees hotter than the CPU, no matter how hard you try to overheat your system. We're talking 3rd degree burns if you touched the heatsink, here.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on February 06, 2008, 02:49:00 PM

So, if I am still getting the 3 RROD (instead of the 2 RROD that indicates overheating) even after doing the procedure several times, is that a good indication that connections have been severed beyond repair??

Thanx for the reply...

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on February 06, 2008, 03:23:00 PM

QUOTE(Glitch Lord @ Feb 6 2008, 05:51 PM)

I hate when people success and i dont

didn't work, have got it working but freezed after 1 hour or so, went back to 3rod, never worked again.

I am beginning to think that there comes a point when you get the 3 RROD that you get to a "Point Of No Return" where the connections are so badly severed that a simple overheat process won't resurrect them...

Hmmmmmm

How about heating it up by putting it in the microwave for a min or so.. Would that help??

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on February 06, 2008, 11:10:00 PM

QUOTE(Boobers @ Feb 6 2008, 04:59 PM)

How about heating it up by putting it in the microwave for a min or so.. Would that help??

Absolutely not

This would totally fry most (if not all) chips on the board. I've stated before, some 360's are more troublesome than others. Constant re-adjusting, re-doing the whole tutorial etc... is the only thing you can do to make it work. You can send Bojngles a PM (in my sig) for reflow service. Only other choice (better than reflow) would be a re-balling service. Also, RBJTech's cooling mods are a must.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on February 07, 2008, 06:53:00 AM

Actually, I was joking about the microwave...

But will look at those other suggestions of yours.

Thanx

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: UniqueDisease on February 09, 2008, 01:09:00 AM

I got a question, well i was playing my xbox when the screen started to go boxy. It almost looked like there was little black boxes all over the screen. Then i shut down my xbox and when i booted it back up it gave me error code e74. That is the only code it gave me, Do you think your method would help at all or did anyone else have this problem and found a fix.

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on February 09, 2008, 05:03:00 AM

QUOTE(UniqueDisease @ Feb 9 2008, 03:45 AM)

Check this thread...

http://forums.xbox-s...t...51&t=639254

I have tried the LD fix on an E-74 and it was NO GO for me...

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: UniqueDisease on February 09, 2008, 03:20:00 PM

Well i did just say f it and i tryed the towel trick(only once) and believe it or not it really did work. So i think i might invest the 10 dollars for the stuff to do the x clamp fix. It might be worth it

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: HackMy360 on February 10, 2008, 12:00:00 AM

I just tried this method and it worked! no need to overheat the 360 I just tightened the screws and it booted up fine so far been playing for about 6 hours and no lockups. I have noticed more hot air coming out so I added to intake fans on the side hopefully it will keep it cool. Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Deadlykilla on February 10, 2008, 03:45:00 AM

When taking off the X clamps I broke a capacitor. Located about 2 inches where the power connection is at on the back side of the MB "C8P3". I was wondering if this had to do any thing with the power. I found all the items at lowes and installed them but nothing. Had the xbox running more than 5m with out fan to overheat but didn't change the 3 Red lights, So I just turn off xbox. The LED on the power brick is RED. Only happens when I connect to that xbox. Works good on my other system. Same day I tried the towel trick and it worked for about 2 mins. Didn't use Artic Sliver but a Heatsink silicone compound. I'm going to buy some AS from Radio shack and see if that helps. Is it because of that broken capacitor ?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mduga on February 10, 2008, 03:33:00 PM

I did the xclamp fix. Cleaned the chips off using isopropyl alcohol to a mirror finish like stated. Applied a dab of AS5 to each chip and spread it. Put the heatsinks back on.

Then the guide says to overheat it without the fans attached. I tried this, but instead of getting the RROD it instantly gives me the overheating (2 red lights). If I am correct, at 2 red lights, there is no heat going to the chips, so how is that gonna overheat them? I know there is no heat going through them, cause I touched the heatsinks and they were cold. I tried tightening the screws and everything, and it still just gives me 2 red lights. Is it junk now?

Any help would be appreciated.

This post has been edited by mduga: Feb 10 2008, 11:34 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on February 10, 2008, 07:27:00 PM

QUOTE(mduga @ Feb 10 2008, 04:33 PM)

Instead of getting the RROD it instantly gives me the overheating (2 red lights). I know there is no heat going through them, cause I touched the heatsinks and they were cold.

If you're getting overheating right off the bat, then your heatsinks are not sitting on the die's correctly. Another indicator that this is indeed what is happening is the fact that the heatsinks are not hot. I guarantee you that the chips are!!!! Mess with the number of washers, until you know for sure that the heatsinks are sitting properly on the die's.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: mduga on February 10, 2008, 10:01:00 PM

I removed 1 of the washers and now it will not go right to the 2 blinking lights. Now it starts with a green in the middle for about 10-15 seconds, and nothing comes on screen at all, then it goes RROD after that. I need to unplug the cord in back to turn it off. The power button won't turn it off.

Any idea's what to do now? Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jorcasce on February 11, 2008, 07:03:00 AM

I was just offered 2 old xbox 360s, both are broken, one is used only as media center since its dvd drive is unusable and the other one has the RROD, this person is selling them for $120, should I buy them and start "playing" with them? what do you recomend?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jayceonblaze on February 13, 2008, 06:01:00 PM

i just tried this mod last night and got nothing, then i noticed that i hadnt put any of the screws back in before i put the case on. I went back did this then tried it. it fired up but when i went to unplug it and move it to another tv to play it went back to the red lights. also I dont even get error messages

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: UniqueDisease on February 13, 2008, 06:30:00 PM

So here is the problem, I put in a game turn it on and it works for a couple of minutes. Then the screen goes green and black with squares and shit all over the place. But even with the screen messed up like that if i go into the mini dash board, its fine and looks perfect still while the game screen is all fucked up. Anyone got any ideals>

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hazardshot99 on February 15, 2008, 07:16:00 PM

Please Help! ive done all listed steps to try and get the 3rrod to go away, but its not working!
i noticed when i plug my power (brick) cable into my systeme it only stays orange even while i turn the systeme on!!!

does this mean its my power brick that it screwing up or am i missing something?

(i also tried booting it up with my fans to see if they spin but they dont so i htink my power supply is toast)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: catatronix on February 15, 2008, 10:32:00 PM

QUOTE(Deadlykilla @ Feb 10 2008, 05:45 AM)

Any luck with your broken capacitor? Did you find out what it was? I would like to know, do you have a Picture of that?

Thank YOu!

QUOTE(hazardshot99 @ Feb 15 2008, 09:16 PM)

Yep! test the power brick out on someone else's 360 to find out if it is really that....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hazardshot99 on February 16, 2008, 12:07:00 AM

ok i tested the power bar but thats not it!

and maybe im not getting a good connection b.c i didint put any Atric thermal compound on!

i couldnt find any so i left the old compound on!

so do you need the new thermal compound and thats why im not getting a connection?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sammydad1 on February 16, 2008, 01:56:00 PM

Hi,

AM getting near a month now and still seems fine...so I am almost ready to call it fixed...but hope that wont put a jinx on it...so I'll wait.

I did want to again say Thank You for all the folks who went out and spent the ime putting these fixes together in the first place. But as the Dawg sais above...some motherboards seem to be more troublesome than others. I know from my own experiences so far, mine was one of those.

Not to bore anybody, but if the XClamp alone isn't getting it done, and assuming your mobo isn't really gone toast, you likely need to add in one of the various other anti-flex fixes like the 12-Penny or Eraser...in order to apply anti-warp forces to help re-establish the solder contacts.

As others have mentioned here and elsewhere, re-flowing of the solder may take a lot more heat than simply overheating the CPU/GPU because, if for no other reason, the Power supply is apparently designed to power off if it begins to overheat...just watch the light go from Green to Amber.... Heat gunning seems to help if you actually get the temperature high enuff with damaging the neaby circuitry.

Please forgive me if I ramble here....but you MUST be patient with this process. I bet it will eventually work with almost all non-working mobo that haven't been completely broken or cracked.... All these fixes are not going to correct the poor design or manufacturing of the motherboards. They simply get it to work in spite of itself.

SD1

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pille125 on February 16, 2008, 09:35:00 PM

hey there
i bought an RROD xbox on ebay and got it today. it took me about 2 hours and now its working fine thanks so much to lawdawg you are the best ^^
but i do have a little issue. when i want to log in to xbox live its telling me that there is connection. when i click on test connection it stops at checking ip adress and shows failure. do someboday know what the problem is? with my other xbox on the same cable there is no issue at all.

thanks and cya

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Lithiehkua on February 18, 2008, 06:47:00 PM

Just did Lawdawg's method and its workin fine so far

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: catatronix on February 19, 2008, 12:01:00 AM

QUOTE(jorcasce @ Feb 11 2008, 09:03 AM)

Did you buy them? I would....

QUOTE(hazardshot99 @ Feb 16 2008, 02:07 AM)

I would have add new thermal..

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wzax on February 20, 2008, 06:00:00 AM

hi,

i used lawdawgs method for the GPU. first it worked fine when my xbox was still disassembled.
i soon as i reassembled it, it overheated instantly after start ( 2 blinking lights ). could anyone please help me ?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: justin35 on February 22, 2008, 10:41:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Apr 22 2007, 04:41 PM)

Hello, i'm about to try your method, two quick questions do i have to remove the studs from the heatsink in order to use the screws and do the screws go through the metal case

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on February 23, 2008, 05:52:00 PM

QUOTE(justin35 @ Feb 22 2008, 12:17 PM)

do i have to remove the studs from the heatsink in order to use the screws and do the screws go through the metal case

Thanks

Yes - remove the studs. No - not through the metal case. The screws will go into the heatsinks threads that the studs use to utilize.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: pchx on February 23, 2008, 07:24:00 PM

Hi, all i did the Lawdawg method, and it worked for a week, then i had overheat for 2 minutes, and it worked again, week later RROD again, so i decided to do the llama overheating method, put the fan on the CPU and leave the GPU without any ventilantion, for 15 mintues , let it cool down for 20 mintues, now when i turn on the xbox, it freezes at the LOGO SCREEN, and makes a weeird sound.

could you please tell me what sohuld i do ? thank you in adbvance!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Boobers on February 25, 2008, 07:05:00 AM

QUOTE(kinsman74 @ Feb 25 2008, 12:56 AM)

Just thought I'd thank lawdawg, you're the man! Used your guide and it worked perfectly on a friend's 360. They he had previously used the towel trick on! I went to Lowes and it took me like 40mins to track down the parts in their bins, what a nightmare, they were also out of the panhead screws and I had to substitute hex heads which resulted in having to drill the case to make room. Total cost $5.38

Now for the useful stuff!!
I found everything online in one spot with great shipping prices:

www.fastener-express.com

M5 x.8 x 10mm Pan Phil Machine Screws-SS Qty 50
Manufacturer Part#: MMSPHPS5010-5H5
(Qty: 1 x $4.88)

Hi Kinsman...

Many thanx for this info... I found a local source (a Flea Market no less) that has the Nylon Washers.. They are considerably thicker than the nylon/zinc washer combo, but I have discovered that one of those takes the place (size wise) of the zinc/nylon combo.. So, it makes it easier..

But, I have a helluva time finding the Machine screws... My local Ace Hardware has them in bulk for like .32 cents apiece, which is kinda spendy, but serves in a pinch. I like to use the HEX screws, rather than the PHILLIPS screws, as it gives me more tightening control with less danger of slippage..

Sorry to ramble on. Thanx for the source info for the screws...

B

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hsbc on March 01, 2008, 12:49:00 AM

I'm gonna attempt this method but i have a few quesitons:

first off, to clean off the gpu and cpu Alcohol is suggested, any particular kind? Just stuff you drink like tequila or what ever, or is it like rubbing alcohol you get for cut's and bruises? I just need some clarification on that.

When my box died, the screen went black, then i turned it off and turned it back on and that's when i got the 3 rrod. Does that mean that the GPU is the problem or could it be both?

Thanks for any help.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cgfern on March 02, 2008, 08:30:00 AM

Hey all! Does anyone know if this method can correct the 'no video' issue I am currently having? Got sound, but no vid..

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Willtur on March 02, 2008, 06:25:00 PM

Thanks a ton for the info, I got the 5mm screws and washers from home depot the part #s were a match. Now my xbox has been on for about 3 or 4 hours through me trying to hose it. I had the 3 red lights out of nowhere, it locked up 5 or so times on a day I was playing it with no previous problems ever. Then it went to red lights and wouldnt quit.

I put the screws in on both heatsinks, artic silver thermal and I didnt do the bake thing.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kinsman74 on March 03, 2008, 08:42:00 PM

QUOTE(cgfern @ Mar 2 2008, 10:06 AM)

Hey all! Does anyone know if this method can correct the 'no video' issue I am currently having? Got sound, but no vid..

There is a video reset, I can remember seeing it somewhere, it's like hold right or left trigger and Y while booting. The xbox I mentioned in my previous post suffered from this.

3 ROD > TOWEL TRICK > NO VIDEO > VIDEO RESET > VIDEO FADES AFTER 3-5 MINS > X-CLAMP FIX >
WORKING XBOX!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: GamestationOH on March 03, 2008, 09:21:00 PM

Her is a link to video reset.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/911059

To reset the display settings of the Xbox 360 console to the default settings, follow these steps:
1.   Remove any discs from the disc tray.
2.   Turn the console off.
3.   Turn the console on.

Note If you are using an Xbox 360 Wireless Controller, turn the console on by using the Xbox Guide button on the controller. Make sure that you use the player 1 controller when you do this. The player 1 controller will have the upper-left quadrant light illuminated.
4.   As the console starts, press and hold the Y button, and then pull the right trigger at the same time.
5.   The Xbox Dashboard resets the display settings to the default settings, and then automatically restarts the console.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: FoneFreak on March 04, 2008, 06:38:00 AM

I sell the x clamp kits on ebay for £4.98 (inclusive of postage), some people are selling the nylon washers with the wrong mm size (some people are not even selling nylon washers with their kits??). I have the exact parts as needed by Lawdogs guide. I'm on ebay as FoneFreak786.

I have used the same kit on my 2005 xbox360 and it now works GREAT but i would also recommend a talismoon max fan!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: k9plus1 on March 04, 2008, 06:53:00 AM

QUOTE(Deadlykilla @ Feb 10 2008, 11:45 AM)

Hats off to you for being such an optimist in thinking that the xbox has redundant components installed onto it.

If people start breaking bits off the xbox mainboard, it is probably a good sign that it's ...... broken

Sorry, looks like someone had to tell you.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ansaiyang on March 04, 2008, 03:57:00 PM

Man! Help me!!!!! I live in dublin, and everything is so expensive in here. It is also hard to find any specific item here. Im spent like 6 hours looking for m5 machine screw, and the closest match i could fine is the one which is 12mm long, not 10mm. Everything, cost me around 20 euro. That is why I said this city is damm expensive. Well, i followed everything in lawdawg tutorial, but still got the ROD. Then i guess that my scew is too long so I only used 3 washer instead of 4 for every screw, and magnificently it worked. But, after 3 days, my box start to hang, and today got the ROD back. Any advice for me??? Any help would be great. I really do not have time to read all 63 pages, i only managed to cover until 20 pages. Im not selfish or anything, but please understand that im a medical student, so I have to study most of the time. Please help me man, as my xbox is one of the thing that keep me sane and stopping me from jumping down from the roof of my medical faculty building! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) By the way, here is some culprit that i think may be the cause:-

1. Maybe my screw is too long, but it do work for 3 days.
2. After i finished with all the repair, I cannot screw back the small black/gray screw which hold the metal case and the green electronic board(I dont know the name, motherboard or something), so i just screw back the white screw without the black one. The m5 machine screw is actually block the black screw from going in.
3. My xbox is in vertical position, i heard that chances for hardware failure is higher in this position, compared to horizontal position. I just heard this from somebody, it may not even possible, im not sure.

That is pretty much everything i can think off. Somebody please help me!! Thanks in advance man!!!

This post has been edited by ansaiyang: Mar 4 2008, 11:58 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Praetor77 on March 04, 2008, 04:06:00 PM

I haven´t actually done this method ey, I am waiting for someone wise enough to be able to help me with the fact that I got 3RLOD and have never been able to power on the system again. I get no fans, lights or anything by pressing either the power or the eject button. My power brick is orange but my 360 is getting no power from it, even my usb ports have no voltage.

Anyways, trying to help the people consulting this thread, DO NOT DO THIS METHOD WITHOUT REPLACING THE THERMAL COMPOUND! This could fry your chips in moments after booting. What thermal paste does is provide maximum contact surface, because though the surface of the chip may seem regular and perfect, I assure you that at microscopic level it IS NOT! without thermal paste contact surface is minimal. NEVERTHELESS, thermal paste´s thermic conductivity is still MUCH lower than that of metals! This is the reason why you should apply the thinnest layer possible while still covering the entire chip.

Cheers!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cgfern on March 04, 2008, 04:53:00 PM

QUOTE(GamestationOH @ Mar 4 2008, 05:57 AM)

Well....I gave that a shot, to no avail. ugh...any other suggestions? My box is toast isn't it...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PillowMetal on March 06, 2008, 10:41:00 PM

I started getting the RROD on my XBox 360 Elite (that's right, I said ELITE) about 2 months ago and was getting by with the "towel trick" until the time between tricks got shorter and shorter and eventually ended up not working anymore.

Since Micorosoft sends refurbished machines back to you and Arcade downloads no longer work offline or for other gamer tags on your new machine, I decided to try this method (no drilling of case or heat sinks and specific part #s found at Lowes).

I bought all the tools and parts I needed from Lowes (although I had to get the Arctic Silver thermal paste at Radio Shack) and sat down to begin voiding my warranty. Things went pretty smoothly, although it is a pain to get that old thermal paste off the chips, be patient and get that "mirror" finish.

After finishing the repair, I tightened the screws as tight as I could without breaking the motherboard, put everything back in the case and fired it up... success!! I have been playing for a couple of days now without a hitch. Thanks so much Lawdawg for making this as painless as possible.

A couple of notes: the Elite has an extra GPU heatsink connected by a heatpipe to the main heatsink that obviously does not help, and I hear that is what they are putting in the "fixed" XBoxes they send back from warranty repair. The removal of the X clips is the only REAL fix! Getting the clamps off was a little tricky, but just use a small flathead screwdriver, a little leverage on the posts from ABOVE, and a lot of patience. If you can't get one off, go to another one, I found that some were much easier to get off than others. Also, the fans are not at full speed like they used to be, so that tells me the Arctic Silver is doing a good job of dissipating the heat to the heat sinks.

Thanks again, and good luck to all that try the fix.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jaap75 on March 07, 2008, 09:55:00 AM

Hi guys.

I've got a question that has maybe been askad befor but i could'nt find it.
I got my rrod xbox back from microsoft and they replaced the intire motherboard.

I openen up my xbox to see witch motherboard it was. It was the one whit an extra heatsink.(so 3 in total)
I don't have rrod yet, but i was wondering if it would be usefull to do the x-clamp fix now. To prevent the rrod of happing. I also read that you have to overheat your xbox. But mine is not broke yet so i dont wanna risk breaking my xbox by overheating.(does the x-clamp fix work without overheating)

So is it better to do de x-clamp fix now, or wait if i'll ever get rrod.

Please let me know,
Kind regard.

Yoeri

This post has been edited by jaap75: Mar 7 2008, 05:57 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Wheezy13 on March 07, 2008, 12:56:00 PM

QUOTE(jaap75 @ Mar 7 2008, 11:55 AM)

If your 360 is working fine then definitely don't do the X-Clamp fix. The X-Clamp replacement is a last ditch effort to try and fix the RROD, and it's temporary at best.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cgfern on March 07, 2008, 08:57:00 PM

I'm a little confused, I've seen several posts refering me to use the x-clamp replacement to fix an audio/ no video issue. Can someone please explain why this would work?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PillowMetal on March 10, 2008, 12:38:00 AM

QUOTE(Wheezy13 @ Mar 7 2008, 01:32 PM)

If your 360 is working fine then definitely don't do the X-Clamp fix. The X-Clamp replacement is a last ditch effort to try and fix the RROD, and it's temporary at best.

I agree you should not perform this fix until you have a problem (and get RROD error 0102), but one thing you could do now, since you have your box open anyway, is to make the "fan shroud" mod and/or buy new talismoon or whisper fans. I made the former mod by using a cigarrete carton box cut into 3 pieces to 1) separate the airflow between the CPU and GPU heatsink sections so each had its own fan, 2) cover the GPU heatsink to separate it from the DVD and force air in from the front, and 3) covered the back half of the CPU heatsink to again force air in from the front (didn't want to cover the heatpipe portion).

The dimensions of the cuts I made were:

Divider: 2 3/32" X 3 1/16" with a 15/32" X 7/8" notch cut out where the DVD corner is.
GPU flap: 3 17/32" X 2 3/4"
CPU flap: 31/32" X 2 9/16"

Airflow is much better and uses all of the heatsink fins now. I also taped up gaps between the shroud and heatsinks, as well as the top of the shroud where it clips in to the case, to provide as much suction as possible. This is all in an effor to prevent the overheating that warps the board in the first place. As a bonus, since you have the added heatsink in your repaired box, the air coming through the CPU shroud section is also grabbing some of that new GPU heatsink air as well. However, the GPU heatsink is still much hotter than the CPU heatsink, but any bit helps.

As far as the X-clamps, don't do it until you need to (and again get RROD 0102)... not sure if it is only temporary though because you are solving the single point of support problem, and in addition you may find (as I did) that the thermal paste was crap and didn't even cover the entire chip(s). Ripping (metaphorically) off the clamps and applying the Arctic Silver definitely benefited me in that regard.

Let us know if the refurbed unit eventually goes south, because I for one would like to know if they have fixed the BGA solder problem that is the real issue in the first place.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on March 10, 2008, 01:13:00 PM

QUOTE(Praetor77 @ Mar 4 2008, 06:06 PM)

DO NOT DO THIS METHOD WITHOUT REPLACING THE THERMAL COMPOUND! This could fry your chips in moments after booting.

This says it all, by far the most important part of this tutorial. If this is skipped, I would bet $$ that it won't work long - if at all.

@cgfern
Most people end up with audio/video problems when the GPU starts to overheat & the solder becomes comprimised. You could have audio/video problems not related to the X-clamp issue...but not likely.

@ansaiyang
If those are the only screws you can find, I would suggest trying RBJTech's method. The biggest difference is drilling out the heatsinks (& cutting a few fins) so a nut can go on top of the screw.

BUT AS5 IS A MUST....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: vb_encryption_vb on March 10, 2008, 04:21:00 PM

ive done this fix on 3 different xbox's now and can't get a damn one to work what gives?

im replacing the xclamps on both the cpu/gpu, over heating it, tighting bolts down, letting cool than pluggin it in to see if it works. Or do i have to put all the screws that hold the mobo in place first? than test it?

This post has been edited by vb_encryption_vb: Mar 10 2008, 11:26 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: justin35 on March 11, 2008, 12:05:00 PM

Thanks to Lawdawg's method my xbox 360 it's working again! So far 2 weeks of heavy use and still good!. will try fan shroud method to keep console cooler

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: BILKO1 on March 18, 2008, 05:42:00 PM

QUOTE(vb_encryption_vb @ Mar 10 2008, 10:21 PM)

Same here whats your secondary code? Mine is 0021

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bezzzerk on March 19, 2008, 02:58:00 AM

Please bear with me as I ask a question which has probably been answered here but lost in 69 pages of the thread.
I DO NOT have the 3 red lights of death. The GPU however has kicked out. I get a flurry of pink dots on the screen when the 360 powers up. The dashboard etc still loads and I can hear the "blimp" sounds on the dashboard.
So heres the question: Do I still need to let the 360 overheat as in the last part of the tutorial or would just replacing the thermal and adding the washers etc work?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sukhish on March 19, 2008, 03:57:00 PM

Hi I tried this method...but now i am getting E74 and sometimes E73 error, I've also tried this method but no success : http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=608952

If anyone has a fix for this, Please help me! I'll highly appreciate it. Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: narc7 on March 19, 2008, 08:46:00 PM

Hey guys, I just did the xclamp fix and it gave me green lights when I tested it with the case off and mobo not screwed down. Then I put the 360 back together and it gave me the 3 red rings again. The screws I used had really large heads and I really had to screw it down hard to get it all back in the case. I took it apart and retried the overheating part if the xclamp fix and I still get the 3 red rings. What did I do and can it be fixed??? Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jombay on March 19, 2008, 10:33:00 PM

Hey narc7. You shouldn't need to screw anything down hard to get the case back together. From what you're saying I understand that you cannot get the motherboard into the metal shield without force. If this is correct, you should reduce the number of washers on the underside of the motherboard. It should be flush with the metal case without the use of any force.

Try doing the whole x-clamp replacement method again, then making sure the mobo is flush with the shield. Also if you posted your error code it would help.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: narc7 on March 19, 2008, 11:19:00 PM

Hey thanks a lot jombay for the response. I had the same idea you just had. I removed the metal washers from the backside of the mobo and it fits a ton better now but I still startup with 3 red rings error code 0102. I will try taking the heat sinks off and reattaching them again and then doing the overheating step tomorrow morning. Think I could permanently broke it by bending the mobo a bit? Or can you think of anything else I can try?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bills_fan_1982 on March 20, 2008, 09:43:00 AM

I've just attempted Lawdawg0931's x-clamp replacement method on my 360 with the RROD. Unfortunately I'm not having much success. But, I think the screws I'm using might be slightly too big (I ordered a kit from a seller on ebay that was supposed to include all the screws and washers needed for this repair). But it seems like I can't tighten the heat sincs down to the mobo nearly enough because the screws are just not wanting to go in, it's very forced. So I guess my question is... does it sound like I need a smaller screw or should it be extremely tough going into the heat sinc?

When I went to overheat the system after tightening it as best I could, it flashes 3 lights only for about 3 minutes before it goes to lights 1/3 and shutting down.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance, any help is much appreciated!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: narc7 on March 20, 2008, 12:00:00 PM

I redid the xclamp fix and it still gives me 3 red rings. The screw holes around the heat sinks are brown around the edges I am not sure that matters or if it was like that before I did the fix. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: avsky on March 21, 2008, 06:54:00 AM

hey guys, just signed up to report my results!
started off with 3RLOD, code 0102.

Using the Australian parts dvsone stated on page 1, I used 3 washers under the mobo and 2 above. Worked out fine but after 10 minutes I'd get corrupted graphics and the box would freeze. upon closer inspection (was i dumb or what) the GPU heatsink was a little loose. I added an extra washer under the mobo (4 under, 2 above) to the GPU only.. snug screw in... and it's been working fine for 2 hours.. 30mins idle and the rest of the time playing various games.

thanks for the tutes!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on March 23, 2008, 11:02:00 PM

QUOTE(narc7 @ Mar 20 2008, 12:00 PM)

You stated that the mobo was bending when tightening down the screws (with really large heads), double check that the screw heads are not taller than the stand-offs! If you don't understand what I mean (stand-offs) - they are the elevated round bumps in the botton of the metal case the mobo sits on.
IPB Image

Stand-offs on both ends...(borrowed from RBJTech)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: YEEAHHBOYYY on March 24, 2008, 03:47:00 PM

Hi, I have been attempting to do this the lawdawg fix, but have run into a problem removing the studs from the heat sinks. What is the best way to get the studs out? I am trying to use a pair of pliers to turn the studs with zero success. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: baltazor on March 26, 2008, 04:26:00 PM

CONFIRMED THE MOD INDEED PROVES TO BE ALLOT BETTER THEN TOWEL TRICK POEPLE

!!

Have used towel trick first (only once because), and it worked yes but for aslong i leave my xbox powered on. From the min i turned off my xbox and turned it back on the dreadfull RROD

showed up again

So, next day i RAN to my local hardware store and bhought the required items to fix it the right way.

And poeple SIZE is everthing indeed!!!!. I for example couldnt use 2 washers at each side but rather one at the bottom of the MOBO, and the one i used is ofcourse an FIBER washer (not to damage mobo any furter obviously). As the mobo simply wont fit using 2 washers both sides, the mainboard isnt fully horizontal in the metal case if u know wot i mean

.

I like lawdags method better for the simple reason u dont have to cut and drill things out of ur metal case or heatsinks for that matter.

Now, i noticed i have STILL have the SAME issue as on the day when i bought that xbox. Wich is why i think that box must be an refurbished xbox wich M$ have returned to local shops to sell it as brand new

!!

The issue (more or less) is the fact that i need to turn my xbox on 2twice to get in ??!!!! When i power it on the first time i dont see any green lights circling, no video, no sound, no red lights, only the green light in the middle (i think power)!!!??
I have had that kind of annoynce the first week after i bhougt it new!!!! And clearly it has escalated, else i woudnt have the rrod me thinks. But i have used that console by switching it on and off twice for over a year. And it worked for an long time whitout overheat problems, but occasionaly an E74 error = gpu related problems.
The odd part about this power on and off x2 thing is that it only occurs when the box is for an long time in-active = powered off!!???

For example when i manage to get in by doing the above thing , and turn it off again and on afterwards. I have no problems to startup and loggin time and time again!!????

I need to do that every time at the first attempt when the box has been in-active for an long period!!!??

WOT CAN BE DONE ABOUT THAT!!!!

It is still an GREAT mistery to me, havent found any related topics or anything regarding this issue!!?

Many thanks to lawdag and many others who made this to guide us in this matter

baltazor,

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Daveychan on March 26, 2008, 10:15:00 PM

Last night I used this method after the eraser method stopped working for me after six months.
This X-Clamp replacement worked perfectly and immediately.

FYI: Japan hardware stores recognize and stock the M5 screws, and nylon washers were easy to find.

Thanks to all for their advice and information.

cheerz,

davey

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bezzzerk on March 27, 2008, 08:43:00 AM

I have looked everywhere , but can't find any Nylon/Fiber washers in my city (in India). Is there anything else I could substitute for this? I already have the metal ones. Can I just use them to cut some out at my home?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nwolf22 on March 27, 2008, 10:49:00 AM

hello can any 1 help me i cant seem to get the washers and screws i need to fix my 360 it had the 3 red lights used the towel methed and it worked great for a couple of days but it started freezing with in 5 minutes now i aint got 3 red lights but still want to fix it.does any 1 know wher i can get the 5mm flat washers and the screws frm ive tried b&q. can sum 1 plz help me.cus want 2 get it done.thanx

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ukRizL4 on March 29, 2008, 11:11:00 AM

ok i got a 360 from ebay but just now i doubled checked and he said he did the fix and came back so he is selling it to get money for a new one

is it worth doing the fix myself? i got it for 40 pounds i already have the tools
but will prob do a bad job lol

Any repair service local in london that can do a good job

This post has been edited by ukRizL4: Mar 29 2008, 06:13 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: whopacha on March 30, 2008, 06:33:00 AM

my first post ! (hurrah!)
first of all i did NOT have the 3 red rings error (therefore not covered by m$ extended warrenty)
so i figured i could either send it to them at a cost of roughly $130 to fix/replace....

or i could attempt it myself..... i choose to give it a go:

anyways, just letting people know that so far i've been sucessful with the x-clamp replacement.
(i only did the GPU as i was getting no video and figured ball solder joints had gone on the GPU)
though i did take off the CPU heatsink and re-apply paste... just kept the xclamp on it but.

(following a mixture of differernt tutorials?) but probably mainly lawdawg0931's method.

im in australia and just got the required parts (washers / bolts) from bunnings. as another post said earlier. dans blah blah nuts etc, zenith washers....

3 washers underneath the mainboard and 2 above (GPU)

note: i have never seen 3 Red rings on my xbox.

before the fix i would get digital sound.. but nothing else.
after the fix: on first attempt it booted up fine... and i thought i'd done a good job.. for about 30 seconds...
then it shit itself.

so i took the mainboard back out and loosened the new GPU bolts... then re-tightened the, being careful to keep pressure even.

re-assembled. test 2: botts ok.... GPU heatsink felt really hot after a little halo action... but all seems well

so far....

i might do a few cooling mods and re-assemble tomorrow....

then do some extended testing

hope it works well.. and hope all goes well for everyone else out there.

just wanna give a big thanks to xbox-scene.

on first boot it worked

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: wgorham on March 30, 2008, 07:12:00 PM

Got 3 rings one night after a reboot I played for awhile. The next day I turned on the box and again got the 3 rings but this time a reboot did not help. Today I applied Lawdog's x-clamp replacement and so far the box has worked perfectly. Thanks Law! Hopefully MS will see all the success and change the x-clamp design.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Reaper67 on April 01, 2008, 10:54:00 AM

hello everyone I have a question have any of you got the ebay repair kit? to fix the RROD and using this method ? I live in a country that M$ doesnt support but I can buy things on ebay so thanks in advance

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: garyd123 on April 02, 2008, 06:12:00 AM

I just did the xclamp mod following Lawdogs method. Seems to be working, however my xbox's heatsinks are really hot, too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. This is with the case off and shroud not installed. Is this ok?

This post has been edited by garyd123: Apr 2 2008, 01:14 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: chromedome on April 02, 2008, 03:49:00 PM

Hi all new to the forum,

So then would it be beneficial to do this to my normally working xbox as preventative maintenance??

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: LaserMac on April 04, 2008, 04:37:00 AM

Fixed 2 of my friends' 360s using this method. They would like to drop a big thank you to lawdawg. A thanks from me as well as I also used this method to fix mine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: [BuRnT] on April 04, 2008, 03:00:00 PM

Hi All,

I can't find any nylon washer or 5mm flat washer around here...
I got some #8 flat washer, they are a bit bigger than the motherboard holes and i was wondering if i put some electric tape on the washer i would be safe using them on top of motherboard traces?

Do you think the washers will get hot and melt the tape or will the pressure could break traces on the motherboard?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 06, 2008, 01:34:00 AM

QUOTE

' date='Apr 4 2008, 04:00 PM' post='4251121']
I can't find any nylon washer or 5mm flat washer around here...
I got some #8 flat washer, they are a bit bigger than the motherboard holes and i was wondering if i put some electric tape on the washer i would be safe using them on top of motherboard traces?

The problem you will run into will be the two sets of each right next to each other...2 from CPU & 2 from GPU. The washers will hit each other, not sitting correct.
@LaserMac
Glad to hear it....multiple recoveries! Woooo

@Chromedome
NO.....NEVER!

If it works...leave it alone.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvandriesen on April 08, 2008, 10:24:00 PM

well i did the xclamp today to my 3RROD 360 and everything is working havent played it much yet but seems to be working. Im a little afraid of the fact that when i screwed the other screws down to the motherboard it seems like alot of pressure was being put down. When you guys did this did you screw all the motherboard screws down cause it seemed like it was being a little tough is that ok. Thanks lawdogg for your tutorial mine is working will test it up in a little but in all thank you very much to get mine running again.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 08, 2008, 10:58:00 PM

QUOTE(dvandriesen @ Apr 8 2008, 11:24 PM)

when i screwed the other screws down to the motherboard it seems like alot of pressure was being put down.

I'd be willing to bet the screw heads are bigger than the case stand-offs. Double check for the proper clearance. A picture is 1 page back I think (showing what I mean).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvandriesen on April 09, 2008, 10:05:00 AM

well i just checked the picture but with your method your not putting screws through the metal casing i thought?? i used the screws from lowes that you stated so that shouldnt be a problem i wouldnt think. Well the motherboard is in but i just didnt screw the screws down killer tight. I think the screws were just a little fatter i got exactly as he stated so i dont know. Its all back together i just had to put a little pressure around when screwing down because the power and video spots didnt match up so when pushed down and screwed there in. What do you reccomend its working but who knows ???

well i just checked the picture but with your method your not putting screws through the metal casing i thought?? i used the screws from lowes that you stated so that shouldnt be a problem i wouldnt think. Well the motherboard is in but i just didnt screw the screws down killer tight. I think the screws were just a little fatter i got exactly as he stated so i dont know. Its all back together i just had to put a little pressure around when screwing down because the power and video spots didnt match up so when pushed down and screwed there in. What do you reccomend its working but who knows ???

are these the screws you used or the ones from homedepot cause they were out at home depot

8 M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws #138433
I got these at lowes which fit but like i said little pressure on bending motherboard

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 10, 2008, 12:08:00 AM

Those are the correct screws, & the picture is mainly to show the stand-offs. (I should have made that more clear). It's RBJTech's picture & he does go through the case...I don't. Only other thought would be if you have any washers between the bolt head & the motherboard. That would increase the lift around the power & video jacks. Over all, if it's working....I guess all is well.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvandriesen on April 10, 2008, 01:13:00 AM

you the best man yeah there is some lift but i mean i did the metal and the nylon with the screws and it is ok its working for at least 4 hours now thanks alot well see how long this works for i appreciate your help to the scene peaceee and im working good doing your method all is good here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: aghatak on April 10, 2008, 01:43:00 AM

picked up parts from home depot. perfect fit.

opening the xbox was a pain in the a$$. after that, very simple.

took ~3 hrs total. did not use the heating for 2 mins though.

played for 1 hr - still working good...hopefully will stay that way!!

lawdawg youre a rockstar!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Nazza on April 10, 2008, 04:48:00 AM

Cheers man im proper thankfull for this tutorial.
My xbox has died so many times with so many different errors i thought this was a long shot but nope works like a charm.

At first it started artifacting about 2 mins after i turned it on, so i opened it all up again, took the fans out and let it over heat for longer time. Let it cool and all is gravy.
Your the man now, dog.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: cresent on April 10, 2008, 05:45:00 AM

no go for me. launch console. got the parts from lowes. soon as i turn it on the fan begins to speed really fast after 3secs then system shuts off. I assume its overheating. i cant tell cuz my RF lights dont work. But i switched RF modules from my working 360 and it flashes 3lights briefly then to 2lights then shuts off. Im stuck on what to do now

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: hoju91 on April 10, 2008, 07:03:00 PM

I did the fix last night and it worked well so far but i have a couple questions. I used rubber washers and was not sure if it would be fine also my bolt heads are a bit too long which caused the motherboard to fit in the case snugly, i didn't screw it down too tight but i am not sure if it will be ok or not.

Thanks everyone

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 10, 2008, 09:58:00 PM

QUOTE(cresent @ Apr 10 2008, 06:45 AM)

soon as i turn it on the fan begins to speed really fast after 3secs then system shuts off.

I'd be willing to bet your heatsinks are not sitting on the dies, but rather the washers. Check the imprint in the AS5 to ensure the heatsinks are indeed sitting on the chips themselves...& not the washers.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: baltazor on April 10, 2008, 11:20:00 PM

@lawdagg

I dont know if you have read my comment an few posts back ? But i have mentioned this weird PHENOMEN whit my box not powering up fully the first time! And so, i have to cycle an few times by powering off and on to get logged in!

NOW, i have done the X-clamp an 3 - 4 weeks ago! And, i have finaly ( a week or 2 ago) have had my first E74 = code 0102 since the x-clamp fix! Now, that WAS surprisinglyh EASILY fixed. I just powered off and on to get rid of that error (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) !! Now, iam playing again for an week or so whitout an E74 red light! Though , i still have to turn on and off and on the box after it has been IN-ACTIVE for an allot of hours for some ODD reason.
It cant be overheating now, since i use talismoon + XCM fan next to the cpu. On top of that i cut the iron out of that place where the talismoons are for adequate airflow etc!!
Then i have found some poeple adressing an HANA/ANA loosen chip wich might be solved by adding presure on it!! But that didnt helped either in my case!!!!???

Also, i want to point out that i doont have ANY graphics GLITCHES nor FREEEZES after hours and hours playing fortunate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) !!!

And thats the EXACT thing that puzzles me and OTHERS appearantly!! Some have contacted me to get help to fix it!

I simple had to tell them that iam puzzled aswell, and just live whit it! As long the box eventually wants to start up iam an happy gamer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ! But the question remains, how long untill i will get the RROD again will that fix work!!?

OH WAIT ,

Coud those weird startup issue have something to do whit the fact i only have applied the xclamp fix on the GPU and not the CPU ???

Since the graphics adapter is an onboard device and therefor depends on the cpu multiple core processor hmmmm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

just a thought!!

baltaatje,

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: baltazor on April 11, 2008, 12:50:00 AM

Hi again,

STrange strange.....!!!

For the FIRST time in an long time i wos able to power on my box and loggin from the first time right away!!???

Didnt need to power off and on again on , off and so on no !!! It managed to startup and loggin from the first time strait!!! It took however 5 - 10 secs i saw the green centered light again like i else had wich is why i had to power on , off , on to get in in the past . BBut now ALL OF A SUDDEN all the other lights started to circle clockwise after 5 - 10 secs waiting though but it did loggin strait from the first time!!?????

Wot the BLAZING HELL is going on!!!!

I thought poeple should know that, who ever experiencing this very same issue i have!! So, poeple dont redo the xclamp method just yet!!!

Its as iff that box has a will of his own (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

baltazor,

This post has been edited by baltazor: Apr 11 2008, 07:52 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: slimjim168 on April 11, 2008, 05:09:00 AM

Add another check to the perfectly working list. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I used 2 nylon washers on each screw. (one on the heatsink side and one on opposite motherboard side, 16 total) couldn't use the metal washers i bought.

the nylon washers i bought were really thick... so i had no choice. but it fits pretty nicely with the heatsinks. (shouldn't have any melting problems, nylon has a melting temp of 190°C +. )

anyways a few basic observations from someone who knows next to nothing about electronics.

1) for those having problems with removing the x-clamps... there is a really simple method to take em off... take a flat-head screwdriver or a butterknife, put it at one of the 4 corners... and simply twist . (the metal should bend enough to come off, not much force at all... very gently) do it to another side... and the last 2 corners fall right off.

2)my 360 never went into overheat mode (2 left lights), i left it on for 2 minutes... nothing, wasn't overheating... so i left it on for another 2 minutes (4 minutes total) let it cool for 15 minutes, and it worked. (was pleasantly surprised because I thought it had to overheat for it to work)i'm guessing it physically did oveheat (it felt really hot to the touch), but my 360 never signaled it.

one thing to take way from this? don't leave it on for too long waiting for the 2 left lights... you might severely overheat the cpu/gpu causing more damage... wait 2-4 minutes... and shut it off.... if that doesn't fix it... adjust the screws... don't go crazy and leave it on for 20+ minutes hoping for the overheat lights...

3)I screwed it into a snug fit.... i think the key here is good contact with the heatsinks and balance on all four screws.

4)don't go by the 2 metal, 2 nylon washer guide strictly (unless you can get the EXACT parts in the guide) you have to use your judgment and eyeball it to make sure there will be good contact. had i followed the 2metal, 2nylon washer guideline... the heatsink would have never touched the GPU and CPU. permanently killing my 360 once i powered it up without heatsink contact. make sure you double/triple check the heatsinks after you screw them down to make sure there is contact...

if you have time to do a thorough job, clean old paste, apply arctic 5, screw everything down nicely... than unscrew it... look at the heatsinks, is there arctic 5 on the heatsinks that are the same shape as the GPU/CPU? if so... good job, it should be good. if not... there obviously is no contact with the heatsink(you will have to take a washer or two off).

you're going to have to reclean everything and re-apply the arctic 5 (good thing is... it's much easier to clean off the 2nd time)

5)My heatsinks get noticeably hotter now than before, which is a good thing... this means the arctic 5 silver is transferring the heat much better than the old thermal paste. (the fan shroud mod seems like a sweet idea, i'm probably gonna do that soon)

This post has been edited by slimjim168: Apr 11 2008, 12:24 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DeLuXe360 on April 11, 2008, 06:05:00 AM

Hello,

i got my xbox working, played for a couple hours non stop, very happy, BUT, for some reason it doesnt play a couple games,, FIFA08, Madden08, NBA live 08, all others it plays, and i know the disks are ok cause they work on another xbox, any ideads would be great, they're the only 3 games i want to work!!!

thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: johnnytriplesix on April 11, 2008, 06:39:00 AM

Thanks Lawdawg! Got my RROD 360 to work...

at first i kept getting the 2 lights, but then I checked the heatsink and there was hardly any Arctic Silver on it so I used thinner washers...AND THEN IT WORKED

BUT....I played 1 game of mlb 2k8 to test it quickly. I frequently got yellow flashes through the game. Sometimes it would be the whole background, sometimes just quick flashes of it.

any ideas?

thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvandriesen on April 11, 2008, 10:04:00 AM

yeah lawdawg i used a nylon and a metal washer underneath the motherboard and on top between the heatsinks but all is well there really isnt that much bend in the board. I think its just a little which is understandable thanks again will keep you posted working fine for another few hours here

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sunnyhundal on April 15, 2008, 01:58:00 AM

anyone know where i can get the parts in canada? i live on the west coast

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: slimjim168 on April 15, 2008, 03:11:00 AM

^west coast, vancouver?

home depot has all the parts.
has the #10 nylon and metal washers.
5mm x 10mm screws i couldn't find.
I found 5mm x 12mm. cut of 2mm.

i think canadian tire may have 5mm x 10mm. my friend said he found em there.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sunnyhundal on April 15, 2008, 02:02:00 PM

QUOTE(slimjim168 @ Apr 15 2008, 10:11 AM)

i went to home depot and i gave him the parts list listed on the first page of this post, and he didnt have a clue and gave me the wrong sruff, so i was wondering if you had specific bin #'s ? does canadian tire even sell screws? btw i live in victoria

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: demarko2281 on April 15, 2008, 04:48:00 PM

ok so i did the xclamp replacement, and get no 3rrod... buut instead, i get one green light and no video or audio. i press the eject button, tray opens, i press the sync button it searches. but no video or audio... i went back thru and redid everything and same resultz... what can i do??? I also checked to make sure my a/v cables are fine and they are... so what happened?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: slimjim168 on April 18, 2008, 11:00:00 PM

QUOTE(sunnyhundal @ Apr 15 2008, 01:38 PM)

Just ask for #10 metal and nylon washers and 5mm x 10mm screws.
(sorry for the late reply, I had exams this week)

This post has been edited by slimjim168: Apr 19 2008, 06:05 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 25, 2008, 10:50:00 PM

QUOTE(demarko2281 @ Apr 15 2008, 05:48 PM)

i get one green light and no video or audio.

Try disconnecting all portions of the power brick...from the wall, from the brick itself & from the xbox 360. Let it sit awhile (discharge all caps). Try it again, if that doesn't work - try a buddies power supply. Only thing I can think of - provided of course you are sure you have done the X-clamp fix properly!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darkzero on April 26, 2008, 12:38:00 AM

Reporting another 'fixed'
I've only played for about an hour, but it's actually working now, rather than straight to RRoD. I had an error 0022.

I'm from Toronto, Canada and I bought all the parts from Home Depot.

The Home Depot I went to had only things in imperial, rather than metric, so I had to find their equivalents
I ended up getting
10-24x3/8 Round Socket Head Machine Screws
BIN 128554 Metric Flat (as it shows up on the receipt)
BIN 418608 NO.10 Washer (as it shows up on the receipt)
Hope these numbers help some people (I stood in the aisle for an hour trying to get the right equivalents)

and in the end, I only used the nylon washers because they were quite thick, not letting the heatsink touch if I coupled them with the metal washer on the heatsink side and then the ports weren't lining up if I coupled them on the back of the mobo

it turned out HEATSINK - Nylon Washer - Mobo - Nylon Washer - 10-24x3/8 Screw for me.

Hopefully it stays working for a while.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ch0p5 on April 26, 2008, 05:42:00 AM

yeah! fixed mine a few days ago with this method!

its working ok now, although it took a few trys to get it right...

but so far so good!! i did use "heatsink grease" until my artic silver arrives so the fans are going quite fast but the 360 doesn't seem to mind atall

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: clivem on April 26, 2008, 01:16:00 PM

QUOTE(FoneFreak @ Mar 4 2008, 03:14 PM)

Thanks FoneFreak for supplying the x clamp kit so quickly. Found most of items online at B&Q but couldn't be bothered trailing down there and searching for them so I could maybe save a pound.

Followed Lawdogs instructions and it worked first time to fix a 0020 error. My son was ecstatic

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Reaper67 on April 28, 2008, 04:50:00 PM

which is the average lifespan of a console with this method?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: emagtog on April 28, 2008, 07:14:00 PM

Got all the right parts. Did the mod. When i went to overheat the chips. All i get is the 3 rings and the power supply blinks green then bank to orange. The chips will not heat up at all. Any thoughts on what i might have done wrong

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 28, 2008, 09:53:00 PM

QUOTE(emagtog @ Apr 28 2008, 08:14 PM)

The chips will not heat up at all.

You sure it's the chips not heating up?....or the heatsinks? If the heatsinks are not heating up, I'll bet that the heatsinks are sitting on the washers & not the dies themselves. Check the AS5 imprint under the heatsink to ensure proper spacing.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: emtinwv on April 29, 2008, 11:23:00 AM

My situation was: A few days ago, 360 started acting up, freezing acting stupid. Thought it was the DVD drive acting up. Next day, RROD. Now I am no newbie to electronics, have Upgraded many XBOX 1's and several 360's.
I am not trying to say one was is better than another, just sharing my experience.
Started with lawdog's method, got 2 red flashing left LED's as soon as powered on.
Looked at from an engineering standpoint and figured what I thought Micro$oft did wrong. If you look at the xclamp configuration it was sound in theory, but what I found was that the, for lack of a better term, nipple bolts, were not letting the heat sink sit tight enough on the processors. I see it as the thickness of the hex part of the nipple bolt is to thick.
I used lawdogs method and no go as I said, till I modified the thickness of the spacing between the heat sink and the processors.
1. I removed the nylon washers from the bottom of the motherboard and replaced the flat washers with lock washers (which are smaller diameter and kept any washer or bolt from touching and traces, also allowed the motherboard to sit in the metal cage better)
2. removed the metal washers from the heat sink side to allow the heat sink to sit closer to the processors.
Be careful!! If the heat sink is too close, there are resistors and various other components that may be damaged when you tighten the bolts!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: emagtog on April 29, 2008, 04:57:00 PM

Ive got the imprint on the heatsink its close enough. The xbox doesnt boot up at all. The dvd drive makes no sound. If i plug the fans in they turn one rotation. And for some reason the power supply wont stay green

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Rocco428 on April 30, 2008, 10:25:00 AM

Completed Lawdawg's method per his PDF instructions and everything worked great. I now get the green ring and have been playing GTA4 for hours with no issue.

My box had error 0020 and 3RLOD. Only change I made to Lawdawg's method is to remove the metal washer on the heatsink side as the offset was too high to make full contact with the CPU/GPU. Make sure your washer(s) stays flush with the CPU but sits a little BELOW the core (mirror-like part) to ensure full contact.

Also, tighten but DO NOT over tighten the first round. Plug in your board (w/ no fan) and let your chip heats up a little. Once it is heated, tighten the screws on the back somemore to ensure tight fit. You DO NOT need to over tighten.

I can attest that this method works. Good luck.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dvandriesen on April 30, 2008, 09:56:00 PM

Well im back after extensive hours of playing lately because of gta4 my 360 rrod again any ideas guys ???

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: UGHHH_SUICIDE on February 03, 2020, 04:49:00 PM

So I am having a huge problem with last step of this and am super confused. My 360 won't stay on long enough to over heat. IE it never gets 2 red lights. It starts up fine and heats up for a while but it's like instead of staying on and overheating it just shuts off. The three red lights are still there but there is no heat/noise being made. After a while the heat sinks go back to cool even though the three red lights are still there. I have left it on up to 30minutes after starting to try and over heat it. Any suggestions?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: chorizo1 on May 02, 2008, 05:22:00 PM

QUOTE(UGHHH_SUICIDE @ May 2 2008, 06:49 PM)

do you have the video cable connected?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: UGHHH_SUICIDE on February 03, 2020, 05:20:00 PM

Yeah.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dB02 on May 02, 2008, 09:21:00 PM

Just completed the fix, it looks good so far but I haven't tested it extensively yet just one boot. Thanks a lot for all the hard work to put everything together, hopefully my 360 keeps on working.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Wilhelm_I on May 03, 2008, 06:17:00 AM

QUOTE(UGHHH_SUICIDE @ May 3 2008, 01:49 AM)

Heat up with a hairdryer it should show the 2 red lights straight away(should heat it up to 80-90°C)...
Or do it properly, take the heatsink off and heatgun the chip...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: crosseye on May 05, 2008, 11:29:00 AM

Did the fix over the weekend on two different boxes experiencing two different problems.

The first system was having terrible video problems. Video would come and go or just get screwed up badly while still being visible. Took the system apart, replaced both GPU and CPU clamps along with new AS5. So far so good. Before the video would go bad after about 15 minutes tops. I've played for a little over 1 hour on that system with no problems.

The second system was freezing every 5-10 minutes or longer if it was allowed to sit for extended periods of time. Did the same as the first and, once again, perfect system now. I've put about 3 hours on that one and haven't had a problem.

There's one thing many people seem to not realize. The systems themselves are pretty resilient. They can withstand repeated overheats, even being wrapped in towels or having heat guns blast them. Once they are correctly cooled, they are just fine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: aussie0275 on May 05, 2008, 09:39:00 PM

lawdawg, i did this fix and it lasted for the better part of 6-7 months, but then suddenly rrod again. So firstly thumbs up to you, secondly any reason you can think of why it died again?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: crosseye on May 06, 2008, 07:21:00 AM

Well, the second system started freezing again. I did notice the thermal pads for the RAM on this system are gone. Does anyone know where I can get them as maybe a RAM chip is overheating, but not enough problems to cause RROD.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darrenp76 on May 08, 2008, 10:13:00 AM

Quick question: I have a ton of M5 metal washers but no nylon ones. Does it matter if I dont use the nylon washers for the fix?

Thanks!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: dB02 on May 08, 2008, 12:01:00 PM

My xbox had been working well after the fix but then it overheated. I got the 2 lights. Any suggestions? Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 10, 2008, 11:25:00 PM

@darrenp76
Metal washers will work, as long as they are not bigger than the circular outline they sit on. Otherwise they overlap and cause problems.

@dB02
Sounds like a re-do of the AS5 thermal paste is in order. Also, any of RBJTech's cooling mods will definitely help - especially the fan shroud mod...EASY!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Mingk on May 18, 2008, 10:01:00 PM

What happens when you fudge up taking the x-clamps off? Like say you scratch/dent a part of the motherboard in the process where you can see circuits going through...

I used this repair on 3 xbox's and it made them work. The forth had no problems with it, I was just doing it as a precautionary measure... and I f*cked it up. Now when I turn it on I see the 3 red flashing lights and NO visuals ever come up. Would that be caused by denting/scratching the motherboard?
The shitty thing is is that the damned 360 wasn't even broken to begin with, I just thought it better to do this so I wouldn't ever see the red light problem...

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: thefunkygibbon on May 20, 2008, 01:59:00 PM

anyone know what the equivalent screw's/washers are now at B&Q? i've just come back from there with the wrong sized screw (5mm x 70 wrongly assumed when i was there that 0.8 referred to the length, as they didnt have the pitch on the packaging at all

)

the packet of washers i got were £1.63 for just 10 too.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 20, 2008, 10:19:00 PM

QUOTE(Mingk @ May 18 2008, 11:37 PM)

What happens when you fudge up taking the x-clamps off? Like say you scratch/dent a part of the motherboard in the process where you can see circuits going through...

It depends if you tore through the trace. If you know how to do a continuity check, find two points - 1 on each side of the scratch & see if you have continuity. If not, you will have to repair the trace. A good tutorial for trace repair from Llama: Here or from X-S: Here

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jeffrey92 on May 27, 2008, 09:31:00 PM

wow. well the first time, my xbox would turn on for a bit and then go to the 2 rings. I didn't know why till i pulled of my heatsink

. while i was foolin around trying to get those washers on one got stuck to the thermal paste and was inbetween my heatsink and the chip lol. I just did it for my GPU and it seems to be working fine.

getting the parts was another story... I went down to the home depot and the only parts I could find that were exactly what I needed were the 5mm metal washers. ok so they have those. Then for the nylon ones I just used #10 nylon washers and those sufficed. And then the screws. Well, like it was said before, they DID have the 5mm X 12mm screws. well I took those to a guy and I told him I needed 5mm x 10mm and he went somewhere and got them. the only thing is that they are zinc plated instead of stainless steel or w/e

the number on the baggy is 30699 80128. I dunno if that helps anyone. probably not. Basically, you either gotta find them or ask. I'm not sure where this guy got them. Maybe I was just looking in the wrong place.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: z11 on May 28, 2008, 11:21:00 AM

Hi, I have been trying this fix with no success, still have the 3 RROD. I have tried different amounts of washers, tightened screws looser/tighter, I'm thinking maybe my problem is elsewhere, my error code is 0020 .... any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: z11 on May 28, 2008, 01:27:00 PM

QUOTE(z11 @ May 28 2008, 06:57 PM)

EDIT ... after reading the code 0020 may be due to bent/warped motherboard, i fully reassembled the 360 to hopefully iron out any kinks present, well with it fully reassembled i now have error code 0021 ??

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: z11 on May 29, 2008, 01:30:00 PM

QUOTE(z11 @ May 28 2008, 09:03 PM)

Well ive now found a scratch on the mobo, probably caused by me, which cant help, any fix for this type of damage?

IPB Image

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bosnia_9 on May 31, 2008, 01:37:00 PM

well i went to every single hardware store today and i cant find the nylon washers anywhere.

I got the screws and the other washers but i cant find the nylon washers so what can i do now?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 04, 2008, 04:51:00 PM

QUOTE(z11 @ May 29 2008, 03:06 PM)

Well ive now found a scratch on the mobo, probably caused by me, which cant help, any fix for this type of damage?

IPB Image

See my post....3 above your original post.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bosnia_9 on June 06, 2008, 07:28:00 AM

great fix lawdawg i used it but i had to adjust it a bit. Anyways instead of having the 4 washers.. i only used 3.. but i only did that only the cpu side.. heatsink - nylon washer - mobo - nylon washer - metal washer - screw

my question is tho.. is that good? Also when my motherboard sits in the case.. the plugin holes are not quite down until i screw the actual motherboard to the case itself. Is that normal?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: elliotreid on June 08, 2008, 08:50:00 PM

ok, i cannot believe this. I followed this guide after getting a e74 (lower-right light only) and set myself up to do this replacement for the gpu, and while I was at it, the cpu too. So i finish up doing the gpu (screw > metal washer > nylon > mobo > nylon > metal > heatsink) and I hook up the everything else to test and success! Now I didn't do anything like test a game, I just brought up the dash for less than a min then turned it off. So seeing that all is working, I put the entire case back together, grab my controller and fire up the 360. You can guess how I felt after seeing the red light again, and the same e74 error. I gave it a few reboots but nothing changed, so I checked the secondary error. I didn't check this error before doing the replacement, but anyway my current code is 1022. I would have hoped it was cpu related because I took off the x-clamp on that and planned to do a replacement there, but couldn't because I did not find enough washers today, so I only did the gpu replacement. Putting the x-clamp back onto the cpu heatsink was a little bit of a struggle, so if anything wasn't working again, that would have been my first guess. One thing that was weird was some of the nylon washers were the size of two washers stacked. I used one of those double-sized washers in the first attempt on the gpu, and luckily noticed it because the heatsink was all tilted.

I know I'm gonna have to re-open the case and unscrew the mobo again (!!!). I'm guessing after all that movement in putting the case back together, that I should tighten up the screw again, very slightly. Also, I would only do the "bake" and not the "heat gun" method. I'm not about to spend money on a heat gun just for this fix. There are some who say both are only temporary fixers and mask the real problems. So I ask the pros, what do you suggest to do next?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bosnia_9 on June 08, 2008, 09:27:00 PM

QUOTE

I'm not about to spend money on a heat gun just for this fix.

thats what the return policy is for my friend. I got a nice 28$ heat gun.. and returned it the next day cause my dad just happend to have bought one in the mean time

btw, xbox works fine after i did a heat gun on it and ive played games on it as well

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Chimp5000 on June 08, 2008, 10:56:00 PM

Hey! Just x-clamped my second rrod 360 today. On the first try it booted up nicely. This method works so nicely!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: smurillo21 on June 09, 2008, 07:38:00 PM

hey whats up! i'm new to this so i'll have lots of questions to be answered. i just got my 3RLOD about a wwek ago and i'm gonna use lawdog's method cuz its the easiest.

questions:

i want to remove the old thermal paste from my mobo but the thermal paste is too hard to get removed. is there any easy way to remove it or do i just have to have patience?

i live in bolivia so i can't go to home depot or lowes, so i need to know the dimensions of the screws and how much space does there have to be between the washers and the heat sink (in mm)? can i just use only nylon washer or do i have to use steel washers? what is the diameter of the washers?

sorry for all the questions but i really want to fix my xbox 360 and its the first time i'm here so i'd really appreciate it if you answered. thanx!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on June 09, 2008, 11:13:00 PM

QUOTE(bosnia_9 @ Jun 8 2008, 11:03 PM)

xbox works fine after i did a heat gun on it and ive played games on it as well

I will NEVER agree with the heat gun method. I understand many people get their Xbox back using a heat gun - but the problem is that you are heating other components along with the CPU/GPU; very bad for caps, resistors, transistors etc..... It's such an extreme heat source directed wherever you're pointing it. Have to be right on! Towel trick is another bad idea.
@smurillo21
Patience in removing the old paste...mirror image when done. Alcohol & Q-tips. Bolt sizes are listed early in this thread, check first few pages.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bosnia_9 on June 10, 2008, 07:52:00 AM

QUOTE(lawdawg0931 @ Jun 10 2008, 01:49 AM)

i isolated everything, the caps had no way of being heated, i covered them with plastic then i also used aluminum foil over them. So the heat was really directed towards a certain area. Also the cover for everything else was air tight so the hot air couldnt get in and make the capacitors get hot or damage them

QUOTE(avaadore69 @ Jun 10 2008, 07:48 AM)

hi guys after my fix, im going striaght to 2 red lights. this happend when i was trying to over heat it, instead of the 3 lights coming on untill it over heated it went straight to 2 red stoping the power to the gpu/cpu, so i cant get the solder balls to melt. any ideas what im doing wronge. the heatsinks are on tight.

make sure your CPU heatsink is actually touching the CPU, with lawdawgs method, by using the set of the 4 washers, my heatsink wasnt touching my cpu so i removed the metal washer from above the motherboard justing having heatsink - nylon washer - mobo- nylon washer - metal washer - screw

and it fixed the 2 RROD

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PriesT83 on June 10, 2008, 01:12:00 PM

Hi, will be doing this just getting the materials
Have two questions

1) Can I use 12mm machine screws instead of 10mm?
2) Are these ok for washers?
http://www.maplin.co...e...rs&doy=10m6
(can get the metal ones but not the nylon at the same shop)

Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: avaadore69 on June 11, 2008, 04:54:00 AM

thanx bosnia_9 you hit the nail on the head, though as always is the case, it still having some problems, but im gonna overheat it a few more times first.

PriesT83 i've seen the guy on this site using 12mm screws but he mods the metal housing for ease, check it out,
http://www.llamma.co...x-clamp_fix.htm

but you can get the right screws at B&Q , i had to order my washers of the internet the ones you have ther would be 1mm small for the scews (should be 5mm inner) and i think they would be too big in overall diameter aswell not letting you screw down both heatsinks. i've seen some ok packs on ebay with the everything, would cost as much in the shop.. just throw this item number in the search bar : 330241219539

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: avaadore69 on June 11, 2008, 04:30:00 PM

ok so i am letting it over heat then titening the screws up then letting it cool. but still the 3 red lights i've tried it a a good few times now but still no joy. any tips

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: vinnie_mack on January 19, 2009, 09:25:00 AM

i'm gonna try another A/V cable today and slap myself in the face if it works because I didn't try it in the first place.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: gimpydingo on January 22, 2009, 02:22:00 PM

IT WORKS!

A slight variation to Lawdawgs. My 360 was manufactured April 2006 and it just died a week ago. Got the garbled graphics on the dash and then freezing, eventually only booting to a black screen.

Took apart the 360, removed heatsinks and thermal paste. For the thermal I used the alcohol which took forever - I would suggest thermal remover OR GooGone and then clean with alcohol swab after.

Got the chips to the mirror finish. Put the new Arctic Silver on the chips and replaced the heatsinks using the screws. First time I didn't tighten down and turned on the 360 for about 2 minutes per lawdawg. This did not work.

I tightened the heatsinks (just enough pressure to hold in place, but not warp the board). Turned on the 360 again (fan unplugged) after 30 seconds I got the 3 RROD a minute or 2 later got the 2 lights indicating over heating. I left the system on for about 5 mintues total. Turned off and put an xbox 360 after marketing fan system on top to cool it off (it plugs into the USB and has an on/off switch to have the fan run even when the 360 is off, normally attaches to the side of the unit). Waited about 20 mintues and powered it on. WORKED PERFECT!!

I played Rock Band for an hour, Banjo for an hour and then Dead Space for a several hours. No freezing! Been playing overall for a few days now with no issues!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sthetix on February 24, 2009, 04:54:00 AM

I've got a falcon and I want to know how thick are the washers exactly for gpu and cpu.
thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: haris2887 on February 24, 2009, 07:11:00 AM

you need 2 washers 1mm each which equals a total of 2 MM on each screw.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on February 26, 2009, 11:07:00 AM

The last couple of fixes I've done I have stopped using washers under the mobo, as the screw heads are inconsistent size. On top of the mobo, you only need to ensure that the heatsinks are not hindering good, equal contact to the dies (both CPU & GPU).

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: foreirongold on February 27, 2009, 12:10:00 AM

I just tried this method on a RROD'd Xenon Xbox 360 and it worked (almost) perfectly!

I replaced both CPU and GPU X-clamps in my case

Items used:

8x M5 10mm screws
16x 3/16" fibre washers (one on either side of the board)
16x 3/16" brass washers (2 on the chip-side of the board, none underneath)
Arctic Silver 5

After installing I baked it for a minute and a half then let it cool down for 5 minutes. Now it works again!

I say this fix is almost perfect because the actual heads of the M5 screws are a bit tall, making the board a bit higher than the cut outs on the case. I think I'll need to disassemble and grind em down a bit before I put everything back together.

Thanks Lawdawg!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on February 27, 2009, 03:58:00 AM

QUOTE(jjm257 @ Feb 26 2009, 05:09 PM)

The heatsink is in the middle of an x-clamp. The bolts go to the four corners of the x-clamp, non of these go into the heatsink. So how might I remove an x-clamp given this to fix my 3 red lights?

The X-clamp is removed (thrown away), during this process. It is the cause of the overheating problem to begin with. Once gone, the screws go up through the mobo & screw into the threaded corners of the heatsink. The old posts that were screwed into the heatsink - & then go into the X-clamp have been replaced by the 10mm M5 bolts.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ryu420 on February 28, 2009, 06:02:00 PM

ok i have been looking everywhere for the parts and have had no luck... i am in vancouver bc, canada and went to home depot and said they didn't have them because it was metric or something... anyone know where i could get these exact screws and washers in canada?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Col.Havoc on March 01, 2009, 12:37:00 PM

QUOTE(ryu420 @ Feb 28 2009, 09:38 PM)

I had the exact same problem with the nylon washers (the screws/metal washers I found easily in Home Hardware). Believe it or not, I ended up going to a place near me called ABCO who build ships, and they had the nylon washers in stock (I tried everywhere). It was the only place I could find them. If you know someone who orders from the states or macmaster-carr, that is your best chance. I believe I seen the parts on Amazon.com.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: rickdf on March 02, 2009, 01:58:00 PM

Just joined this community just to give Lawdawg props!! I had tried other methods--drilling holes in the bottom of the metal tray and treading the screws thru with washers as stand-offs, etc--but could not get it past the 3ROD. Used Lawdawg's method of mounting the screws right on the mainboard and Wilhelm's method of using the little credit card nib-blits on the GPU/CPU corners and bam, worked like a charm. The only thing I did a little differently was I "cooked" the GPU a little longer by leaving the fan plugged but removed from the housing and had it positioned right on top of the CPU blowing down into it to keep it cool. Other sites I found have stated that the GPU sometimes needs more cooking than 2-5 mins. By having the fan blowing directly into the CPU heatsink it will keep the overheating protection (2 red lights) from kicking in thus shutting down the xbox. Again, thanks Lawdawg for ur awesome instuctions and youtube videos. I had been trying various methods for about a week now and urs was the one that did the trick!! Cheers. //rick//

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TechnoLover on March 03, 2009, 08:02:00 PM

Well, hello there fellow members.

I have officially decided to purchase a Xbox360 from a friend, it has RROD which should be a problem but I think I should be able to repair it. The only part that really I am afraid of is the whole Screwing the CPU and the Heat sink back on. I was wondering if any of you that have already done this could advise me some tips and maybe something that I should do before hand to make sure I don't completely ruin it...

Age shouldn't matter when it comes to repairing things but I am 15.
I also have repaired similar things in the past, but I want to be completely prepaired and have a positive outlook and support before I mess up.

I thank you guys in advance and hope to see some reply's soon...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TechnoLover on March 03, 2009, 08:17:00 PM

QUOTE(Col.Havoc @ Mar 1 2009, 03:13 PM)

When it comes to putting the screws down snug, for me, it was going hand tight on all four screws (make sure none are cross threaded/otherwise) and I did a quarter-half screw more, with a driver.

Overheating, the first time I did this method and overheated my xbox, it only took about a minute or two to overheat. I did the countdown after it started to overheat to 2 minutes (probably a bit more) turned it off, and tightened the screws in place (not as hard as I should have done probably). Once I was done, cooled down, turned back on, RRoD. So, I decided to re-watch the videos and decided to tighten the scews down a bit more (both pre-heat and once it was heated) and this time it took about 3 minutes to overheat, and the heatsinks did get quite a bit hotter. Did the 2 minutes again, and this time I turned the screws for all they were worth. Put everything back together, did the fan shroud mod, turned it on and voila!, works great.

So make sure the screws are tight the first time around, or make them loose and make them tighter after cooking it?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Crabjuice on March 04, 2009, 12:18:00 PM

joined forums to say thank you. Up and running again. The Vids were awesome. It didn't cook the first time. I cooked a second time for about 3 mins. I do have one issue my cooling fans run on high speed constantly now. Is that something I did or normal part of this fix? It's just annoying they are really LOUD.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TechnoLover on March 05, 2009, 08:00:00 PM

Alright thanks man, but how tight....? Like tight as I can get it, or so it's not moving tight?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TechnoLover on March 06, 2009, 10:11:00 PM

Bah, I hate posting two replies in a row, but I searched but can't find a list of what I will need.
Would someone give me a list of the things that I need?

I WILL GREATLY APPRETIATE IT.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on March 09, 2009, 04:28:00 PM

QUOTE(TechnoLover @ Mar 7 2009, 12:47 AM)

Would someone give me a list of the things that I need?

Not sure what parts you are asking for, other than the parts for the tutorial as a whole... Check the first post - the link for the tutorial has a parts list. Page 1

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MickRick on March 09, 2009, 05:42:00 PM

Can anyone post UK equivalents of the parts required?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: P-Dude on March 15, 2009, 05:16:00 PM

Mine doesn't seem to want to overheat to the 2 lights. Any suggestions? I've got the AV, power, and DVD drive plugged in.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Holm76 on March 15, 2009, 05:22:00 PM

QUOTE(xenomorphic @ Mar 10 2009, 01:38 AM)

Forget about buying an Elite, I got error 0103 on mine!!!

Thats how i'm here

Regards Newton

Do you know if there are any report on the Jasper Red Ringing?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: P-Dude on March 15, 2009, 06:13:00 PM

EDIT: seem to be getting error 0002 now, I've loosened the screws, hand-tightened them (snug), still same error code. What's the deal?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: stevo_92 on March 18, 2009, 11:38:00 PM

Hey,
I think I've done everything properly, but as soon as i turn on the xbox, the fan goes up to full speed and then shuts off and right away the two red lights come on. Anyone know what's wrong?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: aj23 on March 19, 2009, 10:32:00 PM

Damm, I couldn't find the m5x10 screws or the nylon washers here in Toronto. Does anyone know where to look? I tried Home depot and Canadian tire, and didn't find them. I did find m5x12mm but I don't think they will work.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MickRick on March 20, 2009, 04:42:00 AM

Ok, I did this last night and it worked - sort of... Now when I first connect the power cable and turn it on it rrod's but when I turn it off and jiggle the power connector about, it works. I have had it running FIFA 07 in demo mode now for hours. Its noisy as hell, probably because I haven't put the bottom half of the case on yet, but other than that its fine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Spwee1494 on March 21, 2009, 06:18:00 PM

I need a little help
i've been trying this on a falcon with one of the newer heatsinks
i cant get it to work

It gets 1 red ring, and i know it's a tad different, so is there a different way to fix this?
I'm pretty sure i had 1 ring flash followed by 2 for the error code. (hard to check now though...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SpikeMage on March 22, 2009, 05:04:00 PM

Sorry if this has been covered but Im a bit confused. In the tutorial pdf it calls for two washers on every screw on both sides of the mobo but in the tutorial video he specifically says not to use them on the underside. What gives?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: trinca on March 22, 2009, 10:11:00 PM

No definately do not superglue dude. U can use a little bit of thermal compound to keep them on. Also if you do decide to do this make sure they are the right height(i know its tricky but try your best) and this will help by putting pressure on each side of the chips.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SpikeMage on March 22, 2009, 10:29:00 PM

QUOTE(SpikeMage @ Mar 23 2009, 12:40 AM)

anyone?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: GOUKI187 on March 23, 2009, 11:47:00 PM

hello everyone,

ok, so this is my first post here, so I thought it should be a good one. I recently used this method to fix the RRoD on my X box, and now I'm getting a red light on the power brick. I read that it means there is a short in the motherboard...first question: is this true?? Second question:how could have this happened? and finally third question: is it fixable,and if so how?

thanks for your time.

lol this really sucks as I have JUST replaced my DVD drive, and bought a ton of MS points and 2 year memberships after taxes got back...any help would be awesome!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on March 25, 2009, 12:33:00 PM

QUOTE(SpikeMage @ Mar 23 2009, 12:05 AM)

anyone?

The last couple of mods I have done do not require any washers under the mobo; the size of the bolt heads are very inconsistent. On top of the board, under the heatsink - I've been using 1-2 washers, whatever allows for good thermal spreading of the AS5 paste. The tutorial hasn't been changed, because "many" people overseas have been having good luck with this as written. So as stated several places in this thread (not complaining - just reiterating) experiment with the number of washers & see what works for you.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: btrev on March 29, 2009, 11:00:00 PM

I have gotten to the point to where you wait for the box to overheat. I turn on my xbox and the ring of death flashes a few times. But then it quickly starts flashing the 2 lights as if it is overheating. Soon after the AV light goes yellow. Is this more indicative of an AV problem or of a mobo problem?

Thank you.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: btrev on March 30, 2009, 04:45:00 PM

I wasn't too clear in my last post. I was up really late. I'm talking about the power supply. I'm getting a 0011 error code. Which is overheating. The lights blink a couple times with the ring of death and then switch to the 2 lights on the left. When the overheating lights start to blink the light on the power supply goes from green to yellow to orange. So I cant put enough power through it to overheat it enough to complete the fix. Any help would be unbelievably appreciated.

Thank you

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on April 01, 2009, 07:21:00 AM

See if the heatsinks are even getting warm, make sure the AS5 thermal paste is making the connection between the CPU/GPU dies and their respective heatsinks. If all else fails, read up on Wilhelms web-site about bypassing the overheat signal from the mobo: http://xbox-experts....utthecputemptra Work computer won't allow me to post links correctly. Just copy/paste that link.

Do all of this of your own free will though, no-one but you is responsible.....

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: junbo72 on April 19, 2009, 08:45:00 AM

Just wanted to give a thanks Lawdawg0931 for your video tutorial! I followed along and everything went just as it should

I used the written tut. for materials, and then realizing your video was only a few months old I figured the info there would be most relevant and up to date. I also realized that I only needed half the amount of washers, but they are good to have around anyway in case a friends box goes fry fry.
Now to see how long it holds up

Hopefully for a while.

Patrol14,

Can you please tell us what your xbox is doing currently? What error message are you getting?
I don't know too much but I'm sure someone can help if you can give a little more info

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lycanwrath on May 03, 2009, 01:58:00 AM

Hi to all,

I am having 3RROD and Secondary error code 0103 on my falcon board.

I did the xclamp fix, but it worked only for a day max. (tried the fix over and over)
My GPU heatsink gets burning hot while my cpu heatsink stays cold.
Now I can't get rid of the 3RROD

What I would like to know is whether the prob is with my GPU or CPU?
And secondly what options do I have?

Thx in advance

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on May 03, 2009, 09:20:00 AM

Well, at this point your are just going to need to re-do the fix again. Try adjusting the number of washers you are using, and ensure you are using AS5...not a knock off brand! Not that it matters now, but I'm pretty sure most (if not all) falcon boards are still under M$'s extended warranty for this issue.

Before attempting this fix, ensure your Xbox is not covered by warranty. Go to M$ site & enter serial number. It tells you if it's covered.

Lycanwrath, the CPU won't get as hot as GPU normally...but after ensuring the GPU die has good application of AS5...check out RBJTech's cooling mods. Very easy & helpful

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Vauxfan on May 03, 2009, 05:05:00 PM

I have noticed alot of differences with the thickness of washers lately, One of my fixes overheated to 2rl very quickly and it turned out to be a fat washer knocking evenness off and causing overheating!

Check the washers people!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: slimjim604 on May 11, 2009, 10:42:00 PM

Need input on my 360.

My 360 was fixed about a 1.5 years ago using the x-clamp fix.

worked fine for about 1 years. no problems.

.5 year mark -> started acting up, did the xclamp fix -> worked flawlessly for 6 months.

now(6 months later) it has begun to act up again.

it shows e74 sometimes( bottom right red light only) and 3 rrod sometimes.

I can fix it and the lights turn green again, but the problem is... it freezes. after about 5 minutes on. and turns back to rrod.

rrod
fix
green for 5 minutes ->freeze --> rrod.
fix
green for 5 minutes ->freeze --> rrod.

any suggestions?

This post has been edited by slimjim604: May 12 2009, 05:58 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: ToBbErT on May 12, 2009, 09:59:00 AM

Oven fix or heatgun fix.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: xXRyan95Xx on May 14, 2009, 07:11:00 PM

hi there. i have done this mod but my motherboard dosent fit into the metal chassis with all the ports lining up. i even drilled hole so that the bolts heads could fit through but it still wont fit with all the ports in their right spots. please reply back ASAP.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nagamin on May 14, 2009, 08:09:00 PM

I had success several 3RROD fix, using Wilhelm's Improved X-Clamp Fix/replacement method.
But I had apply heat gun to isolated area, using cardboard wall arround it with MOB secure in metal casing.
Then apply thermal compound, secure heat sink with M5x10 mmx0.8 Hex nut, 2x 1mm thick metal washer ( between MOB and heat sink, 1 nylon washer on buttonof MOB and hex nut head.
Hex nut was reduced the thickness to 2/3 of it.

But I bust first MOB, cause of high temp overheating and without secure in metal casing.

MOB was become hogging and I can't recover it.

So far I had been successfully fix 25 of 3RROD.

Thanks for all persons who contribute those all of Xbox 360 knowledges.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: d2shadowman on May 31, 2009, 11:48:00 PM

thanks for the tutorial lawdawg i got my sons xbox back up and running with no 3 rings of death

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sublemon on June 03, 2009, 01:48:00 AM

Did this fix and worked for two days.
After trying the fix again i get rrod or graphics freezing every so 5 minutes.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SK4DJ on June 30, 2009, 09:51:00 PM

Hey, do you guys recommend to do the x-clamp fix only on the GPU x-clamp when you get the 3 red lights and E-74 or both the GPU and the CPU?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: buzz1130 on July 05, 2009, 07:33:00 PM

hey im obviously a noob but i was wondering what the problem may be when my xbox plays for about 20-30 minutes no problem then the screen just goes black..ive done the xclamp replacement mod several times,changed the AS5 compound several times,im just dumb founded..any help or suggestions would be much appreciated

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Xavez on July 06, 2009, 04:32:00 AM

I encountered freezing problems weeks after the x-clamp fix too. I suspect it could be due to the motherboard warping again so I loosened the screws of the heatsinks and voila! No more freezing.

Make sure that the screws you use have heads that are not too thick too. Otherwise the motherboard will bend when you screw it back to the metal case.

Oh and btw I fixed my X360 using the overheating method. No need for a heat gun

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: buzz1130 on July 06, 2009, 06:11:00 AM

So I should loosen the screws..I was also thinking bout doing lawdawg's method with the little pieces of credit card..and when u do the overheating trick is it supposed to switch to 2 red lights at 2:30 or in that range?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: buzz1130 on July 06, 2009, 09:57:00 PM

also i noticed today while i was "overheating" my gpu with loosened screws that it started up as normal without getting the 3 red lights..does that mean it is fixed or should i tighten the screws and try my luck

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: scorpionrecords on July 08, 2009, 11:48:00 AM

QUOTE(WyldRyce @ Apr 21 2007, 10:23 PM)

that wouldn't be the problem! it is a capacitor loose under the GPU!

QUOTE(SK4DJ @ Jun 30 2009, 10:51 PM)

Hey, do you guys recommend to do the x-clamp fix only on the GPU x-clamp when you get the 3 red lights and E-74 or both the GPU and the CPU?

I would recommend to do it on the CPU... because after all YOU WILL HAVE TO SCREW DOWN THE CPU AS WELL! unless you want it to flex...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: nagamin on July 08, 2009, 12:43:00 PM

buzz1130, if you think you are lucky guy, do it. Fro me, I will leave it alone until next RROD.
Men, you just fixed that. Enjoy your play time.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: itdoesntmatter on July 09, 2009, 04:54:00 PM

Xclamp fix here.
On an old 2006 360 warranty just out.

Worked a treat, ran into problems with over tightening but after a bit of loosening it has worked for two 1 1/2 hour stretches.

May put some pads in the dvd player while it is out but thanks a lot to the people that made this fix available to you and I.

I used 4x 5M x 20mm and
4x 5M x 12mm

Took a bit of logic to get the gpu going on flush but it worked well.

Had a freeze on Oblivion so installed the game to the HD and it works well now. Thinking a replacement fan for cooling is a plan but serious thanks for the fix.
Table tennis works with DVD drive running.

Doing another on tomorrow.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: scorpionrecords on July 10, 2009, 08:07:00 AM

QUOTE(booker @ Apr 30 2007, 11:36 AM)

JUST TO LET YOU KNOW THE TOWEL TRICK NEVER WILL BE THE SOLUTION...

QUOTE(lycanwrath @ May 3 2009, 02:58 AM)

What I would like to know is whether the prob is with my GPU or CPU?
And secondly what options do I have?
Thx in advance

You will need to use the heatgun method first then lawdawgs trick...

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SK4DJ on July 11, 2009, 04:47:00 PM

What do you guys normally use to remove the old Thermal compound? ArctiClean 1 and 2? Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: krindog on August 03, 2009, 07:13:00 AM

Hey guys,

My xbox worked fine for 3 years then all of a sudden one day froze a few times and then got the 3ROD. error code was 1020.

So I went about trying to fix it myself with x-clamp replacement, following this tutorial.

So i could only find a generic thermal heat paste and fibre washers. I cleaned both chips and applied the paste, i do not know the thickness of the fibre washers but we started off with 2 washers between heatsink an chip. Connected power with no fan and got 3ROD, so i left to heat up. Only took about a minute and a half to reach 2ROD so powered it off again and left it for 25 min.

Then on power up i got excited only to find out that now it was just 1ROD and the e74 issue.

And now after playing around with different numbers of washers, different tighnesses and even just simply holding the heatsink onto the chip with my finger, it did not work at all. Even tried just putting the x-clamps back on.

Now it has gone back to 3ROD.

Does anyone have any advice? Does the heat paste really make that much difference (should I get arctic). Could there be any other problems?

Thanks
krin

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MxRacer on August 03, 2009, 09:09:00 AM

QUOTE(krindog @ Aug 3 2009, 02:13 PM)

Try removing the motherboard and the heat sinks. Plug the power card, power cord, and video cable in. Set the heat sinks on top of the GPU and CPU. Make sure your ethernet is not plugged in. Then push the power button and quickly push hard on the heat sinks. If it starts you have hope with the normal X-clamp fix. Just follow the guide trying different tightness of the bolts for the x-clamp. Also, make sure you clean the chips to a mirror finish and only put a tiny dab of thermal paste. About half the size of a grain of rice just enough to change the color of the chips. Make sure you cover both chips under the GPU.

If that didn't work, put the x-clamp back together. Then try pushing down on the Hana chip and the chip with the silver circle. If this doesn't work either then I don't know how to help.

Just make sure you don't have too much thermal paste on and that you have those things down tight. Don't strip it or crack the chips but it should go from loose, to snug, then you should be able to feel it quickly get tight.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TheAbyss13 on August 06, 2009, 09:04:00 PM

Lawdog, I am having no luck with this repair.

currently, what i have done is this mod around 12 times, with no luck.
I have the materials, except i can't find arctic sliver 5, i got arctic silver ceramique instead (Could this sole issue be the cause of why it's not working?)

I have one nylon washer on top of motherboard for both heatsinks and one metal washer on bottom for both with nuts on the bottom for the gpu heatsink since the screws go in through the top and not from the bottom. (i've tried the other ways of having more washers and less washers, and having different types, as having nylon or rubber or metal washers.)

i can get many different effects with this.
sometimes, i get past the baking part and plug it in, and it just gives me the three rings again.
sometimes, i get past the baking part and plug it in, and i get three red lights to two red lights to fan going fast and 360 shutting off.
sometimes, i can't get it to overheat because i just get the two red lights and my heat sinks won't heat up because of it.

What i mostly get is just the three red rings once again after assembling it after baking and cooling for a range of 15 min. - over an hour. I applied the thermal paste thinly over the chips most of the time, this last time i just tried the dabbing style (as in the rice drop or whatever) and still just the three red rings again. I tighten the screws, i loosen the screws, nothing seems to work.

I WOULD VERY MUCH APPRECIATE ANY HELP ANYONE CAN OFFER!!! Please, and thank you.

This post has been edited by TheAbyss13: Aug 7 2009, 04:22 AM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TheAbyss13 on August 07, 2009, 12:47:00 PM

QUOTE(TheAbyss13 @ Aug 6 2009, 10:04 PM)

Edit:
I have now purchased arctic silver 5, and to no avail. it seems to have made no difference.
WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: darknuss on August 18, 2009, 06:56:00 PM

If anybody cares, please read.

I let it overheat with the new bolts on, confirmed with fingers the heatsinks was very warm, then turned it off, after 5 seconds, then turned it on, the 360 worked. Then I screwed the bolts tighter, may have been too tight as per instruction saying to tighten them after burn in. The screws then seem to have been much much looser after the burn in, mobo was really bent badly? I turned the 360 on, and got 3 red rings again. I left it on to overheat again, but I touched the heatsinks and they didn't feel warm at all. So I removed the heatsinks, turned on the 360, touched the chips, all the chips, none were warm, none were hot. I check the GPU, saw one little, tiny resistor off the pads, I tried to solder back in, but it's impossible since it's so damn tiny. So mobo is completely dead now, still 3 RROD.

So I believe the screws method would have worked for mine if I hadn't screwed it so tightly.
I recommend not to retighten them once you see 360 is working.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: buzz1130 on August 26, 2009, 01:28:00 PM

what i notcied when i did my xclamp fix was that the gpu heatsink wasnt completely coming into contact with the gpu...the small gpu wasnt making any contact so what i did was remove one metal washer from those to corners and now it works properly for 3 months and counting

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Orange Power T on August 30, 2009, 02:38:00 AM

Lawdawg thanks for the tutorial videos. Yours was my second attempt on a friends 360 and it is working! It had a date stamped inside of 13012006 and it was a gamestop refurb unit. So I don't know how long she'll hold out but it was fun to do something like this.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on September 08, 2009, 07:47:00 AM

Sorry I've been away from the thread for awhile....real life & all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) Anyways, glad to hear people are still having luck with the fix. @Buzz1130--exactly what needed to be done....adjust the washers to ensure proper fit against the die. @TheAbyss13--have you checked out my Utube channel?...adjusting the # of washers is a little different in those videos, I just didn't want to change the tutorial--as still others were having good luck with it. @Orange Power T--glad to hear it worked for you....

This post has been edited by lawdawg0931: Sep 8 2009, 02:49 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: netmatt on September 13, 2009, 04:15:00 PM

QUOTE(netmatt @ Sep 12 2009, 12:23 AM)

Lawdawg, thanks, first time tried it, worked for me. Got the exact parts from Frye's (arctic silver) and Lowes for the hardware. Followed your videos. Of course its only been 1/2 hour or so, but enough time for me to get my very first game of Gears of War in...very cool. (yea I used T10 on all screws except the power board needed the T9. Didn't have one so I made do using a small screwdriver)

Is there a typical amount of time this lasts?

Anyone have any "Now you HAVE to do this!" recommendations for cooling mods or options (or a thread on that?) I would hate for this to happen again...

Thanks Again! Its awesome when others help others!

Strike that...worked for about 1 day, then failed. It will work for about 5 minutes now, and then it freezes. Not sure what the next thing to try is...?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: netmatt on September 14, 2009, 06:12:00 AM

QUOTE(netmatt @ Sep 13 2009, 06:15 PM)

Strike that...worked for about 1 day, then failed. It will work for about 5 minutes now, and then it freezes. Not sure what the next thing to try is...?

Well its working again...

Basically, I just loosened the screws a little. Fingers crossed...seems like I am on borrowed time with this system.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RMF on September 15, 2009, 05:52:00 AM

Hi guys,

I've just done my first x-clamp fix. The 360 on question was given to me long time ago defective and it's been sitting in my storeroom ever since. It probably broke as long as 3 years ago now. Anyway, I got it out today and had a bash at fixing it and it all seemed to go pefectly well. It no longer has the 3 red lights and starts up to the dash as normal. The only problem is that I'm scared to leave it on for any longer than a few minutes as the fans spin up faster and faster and faster and it gets louder than I ever remember any 360 being. All while sitting at the dash.

So what's the problem here? Is it not cooling effectively? Is the heatsinlk maybe not contacting with the CPU?

Thanks in advance.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: RMF on September 15, 2009, 06:31:00 AM

Nevermind,

I've fixed it. I had fitted the heatsink sideways like a dumbass, so the hot air wasnt being sucked through the shroud properly.

One thing that I've noticed though is that this 360's power button blinks continually. It may be worth noting that there's no DVD drive installed as I harvested it long ago to fit into another xbox. Is that why? Or is something else up?

TIA

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: DevlynSyde on September 19, 2009, 11:38:00 AM

so is the washer that many are using on the 2 ram chips the same 1mm thick washer? seems strange as most pics appear to be using as5 on top of the ram to hold the washer in place?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: TheTerminator on September 19, 2009, 11:49:00 AM

QUOTE(RMF @ Sep 15 2009, 08:31 AM)

It's normal, there's no DVD drive installed so the green light blinks because it thinks its ejected.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Billybob-xbox on September 23, 2009, 12:55:00 AM

Hey all, thanks for the tut.

I have completed the repair and still getting the RROD. attempted the fix 3 times. The chips still look in good shape as well as the heatsinks.

Any suggestions?

Cheers,
BB

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: neogalahad on October 06, 2009, 06:31:00 PM

This tutorial is awesome. Thanks. I used it for a buddies Xbox and am going to do it for my brother in law for his birthday. Does anyone know anything about drives that dont open when vertical?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MadMaxGR on October 07, 2009, 06:43:00 AM

It is the rubber tray band that is responsible opening the tray. Replace it and it will be fine.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Dandaman0808 on October 07, 2009, 03:52:00 PM

Hi, I'm from the Uk and can't get the parts specified, can anyone tell me of parts I can get here in the UK that will also work. Also for the washers do I need metal and nylon or just 1 type? Also how many?

Thanks

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on October 11, 2009, 07:02:00 PM

Well I'm 2 for 2 today on this fix...

! My Xbox 360 died about 1 year after I removed the X-clamps, and a buddies 360 needed the fix as well. Being that mine lasted somewhere close to a year, I'm pretty happy with that..... I mean, from all the people on this thread---it seems (for the most part) to be a temporary fix that needs re-doing every so often! I can live with that, even if M$ doesn't really change the design enough to make "the" difference.

@Dandaman0808, somewhere towards the front of this thread (first 10 pages-I think), people listed alternative parts for various countries. What I have gone to in regards to the washers: 1 nylon under the mobo, then 1 nylon & 1 metal on the top side (nylon against the mobo of course). Tightening down securely "after" the 2 minute cooking seems key.... hasn't failed me yet.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Caidek on October 14, 2009, 08:53:00 PM

Hi, First time poster here so I appologize if I ask anything stupid.

I have recently purchased a new xbox 360 as upon talking to MS customer service was advised that since my xbox 360 was purchased a long time ago it was not covered under warranty. I decided to attempt to fix my old xbox 360 that was broken.

I was originally reciving an error (RROD) when having my HDD attatched, but after a few days of running without the HDD I recieved the RROD in 3 quadrants on the ring of light. I did some trouble shooting and found the error to be linked to E18 (1020) and looked to this post as a possible solution.

I went to several hardware stores in town to locate the parts listed in the guide and after about an hour of work seemed to have the xbox successfully dissasembled and the fix installed. I attempted to boot up the xbox to allow it to "cook" and upon getting a green light at first was met with (where I thought would be the RROD) 2 flashing quadrants (top right and left) which I believe should indicate the overheat. This was immedeatly after starting with the fix installed.

I attempted what was suggested a few posts ago about disconnecting the fix and pushing down on my heat syncs, which still brings me to the flashing two red lights.

Is there anything anyone can reccomend me to do at this point? Would having too much thermal compound on the heat sync/chips (I polished them to a mirror finish before applying) do this?

Thanks in advance.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Saw Bodian on October 16, 2009, 02:27:00 PM

I'm getting killed here, I have done several xbox's with my friend in the past, but he did most of the labor and I taught him through this tutorial by leading with instructions, now I'm solo doing the manual labor my self and............

I've tried with 3 different xbox's same result, 2 red rings aka overheating. Doing 1 nylon washer on the bottom and 1 metal 1 nylon on top (nylon against the board). About a half grain of rice (or half a pea like my friend said) of AS5, I finger tighten the M5 screws, cook until 2 red rings, unplug let it cool for 10-15 mins outside (Washington cold weather) then tighten the screws about a quarter of what it is now, turn on starts up fine then 3-5 mins 2 red rings. Every xbox I've done it's the same results, I've done different methods such as:

Make the screws super tight then cook it = same results
Spread the AS5 evenly on the CPU/GPU = same results
Take out 1 nylon from under the GPU/CPU= same results
Cook the xbox, leave it out in the cold over night and fire up in the morning = same results
Use more / less than directed AS5 = super fail.

Now I'm afraid that if I keep testing I'll fry the chip or something. I'd say it could be the heatsink and CPU aren't properly making contact but it's 3 different xbox's and I don't think all the MB's are flexing.

Suggestions? ( I use alcohol and Qtips to clean the chips to mirror like finish everytime, it's annoying to repeat and have the same results.)

This post has been edited by Saw Bodian: Oct 16 2009, 09:28 PM

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Saw Bodian on October 17, 2009, 02:50:00 PM

QUOTE(Saw Bodian @ Oct 16 2009, 09:27 PM)

I realized I never put the white air vent on to help cool the CPU heatsink, and I didn't "cook" the 360 long enough AFTER it hits 2 rings ( I always thought you unplug after u hit 2 red rings) Any ways 5 for 6 on 360's RROD's today. One crapped out while flashing and went RROD and one doesn't have RROD and the video freezes after about half hour.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Arday2 on October 22, 2009, 08:53:00 AM

Hello Helpful People.

I originally started off with 2 RROD, an overheating issue. I couldn't resolve it so i replaced the Xclamps using this method.

The 1st time i did the fix it worked perfectly for about a week, of solid 10+ hours a day.

Then i got 2 RROD again, so i took apart my xbox to notice some of my screws were lose and the heatsinks had pulled away from the chips. Turned out i had the wrong screws in and they started to strip the inside of heatsinks so i was unable to tighten them down properly.

I took in the original xclamp bolts to a local hardware shop and they sized them up with some new screws and they matched. Started to mess around with new screws/washers.

Everything was going perfectly with the new repair, untill after i overheated the system... turned it back on i got Instant 3 RROD

3 RROD code: 0002

Traced it back and there is a problem in the CPU area. it seems i have kind of scratched some of the motherboard around the screw area's due to repeated tightening and replacing and redoing the entire repair process.

IPB Image

Its pretty bad..... crys.

Close ups
Upper
IPB Image

Lower

[Sorry for the bad resolution]

I connected the xbox and held down the heatsink with my finger [no screws] and it turned on i had visuals on the screen for afew mins before it overheated, but when i screw it on it goes back to 3 RROD.

I need some professional help with this, i have no knowledge of anything technical, i took electronics back in school. Basic stuff and i didn't pay attention [Facepalm].

I was thinking maybe some kind of rubber washer?

I have pretty much accepted the worst, But if there is some solution i would be more then glad to hear it.
Also if i am doomed, is there some website i can buy a new motherboard from? or am i better off getting a new xbox.

Awaiting a reply
-Dan

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: buzz44 on October 22, 2009, 10:29:00 AM

Assuming there is no permanent damage, I would try and replace the washers with smaller diameter ones, and/or use a nylon washer for the washer that touches the motherboard.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: lawdawg0931 on December 06, 2009, 09:58:00 AM

Bumping for the good of the community....

Sorry, I've been away for awhile - real life issues take priority sometimes.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: kcking on December 08, 2009, 10:52:00 PM

Hi everyone!
I stumbled across this thread while repairing a friends 3 RROD and thought you guys might be able to help me out.

I ran through the steps exactly as the tutorial showed and this is what I got:

I removed the x-clamps, applied AS5 and attached heat sinks finger tight.
When I turned it on it came up to the 360 screen (I was tempted to reassemble without cooking the system but thought i should follow the instructions exactly)
After cooking for 2 minutes I finished reassembling.
Now when I turn the xbox on it does the green circle, turns green for a second and then goes dark. The center light remains green but there is no light on the four light circle.

I've ran through the steps several times (minus the cooking step) making sure I did everything else right.
I really hope I didn't make a mistake by cooking the system when It was already coming up to the xbox screen.

TIA for your help

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: rowtag on January 01, 2010, 04:21:00 PM

hi there,
it would be of great help if someone could post the list of things I need for the lawdawg's modification, I can't seem to get it right.

THANK YOU

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: bamarquez226 on January 01, 2010, 11:19:00 PM

QUOTE

The part #s that I use come from Lowes, and the necessary parts for this mod are very inexpensive. You will need the following parts:
a) 8 M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws #138433

16 #10 Flat Washers Nylon #139065
c) 16 5mm Flat Washers Metal #138319
d) Artic Silver thermal compound

That's from the downloadable version

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: relaxxx on January 11, 2010, 05:43:00 AM

Anyone watch the video and notice the fans ramp up fast a second or two before the end?

I bet that elite is dead right now!

So many tutorials on how to cause permanent damage to your console!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: huverdaz on February 12, 2010, 09:02:00 PM

First off I would like to thank Lawdawg for all the work he did on this guide, it was very informal and got me almost all the way through my 3RROD problem.

I am trying to cook my 360 after I have already reapplied thermal paste and remounted my heat sinks. My problem is that my 360 gets the 2 red lights right away, but it will not overheat. I ran it with the 2 red lights for about 10 minutes and my heat sinks did not change temperature. Does anyone know why this might be?

The only thing I can think of is, when I was putting the power button board back on I may have scratched it a bit. I thought that the board was supposed to go under those two little medal lips, not over top of them. I see scratches on the two front corners, but only on areas with squares.

Any help or explanations you can give me would be much appreciated. I can't believe I got this far then started putting it back together wrong.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: geezer1955 on February 13, 2010, 10:28:00 PM

First, 3RROD mods that are listed on this thread worked like a champ. Nice job laying everything out.

Minor detail that seemed to work better for me: instead of using alcohol to remove thermal paste, I tried GOJO type hand cleaner with Q-tip. This seemed to dissolve the old paste much better. I ended up with a beautiful mirror finish on heat sink contact patch.

I got a nice "Sweet! Thanks, Dad!" All is right with the world again.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Xpoc26 on February 14, 2010, 05:10:00 AM

QUOTE(huverdaz @ Feb 12 2010, 08:02 PM)

I'm having the same problem right now. Instant 2 red lights which shuts the console down and won't allow for the sinks to heat up at all. I didn't scratch anything either, so I don't think that's the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: muddy on March 04, 2010, 05:15:00 PM

Followed the video tutorial and it worked perfect! The only thing was that my console didn't display the ROD after i plugged it in to "bake" the chips. It booted up normally and then it froze, the heat sinks were getting very hot almost too hot to touch, I just let it sit for about 4 minutes and then tightened the screws, replaced the fans and dvd drive and tested again, it then worked great! Played halo 3 for about 10 min or so to test and then re-assembled the whole xbox. Played again for about 30 min, so far so good. Thanks so much for the help!

Edit: I forgot to mention that I added the little square pieces of credit card with super glue on top of the CPU/GPU. Great idea!

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SlickWilly440 on March 16, 2010, 05:42:00 PM

QUOTE(einchin @ Mar 16 2010, 05:52 PM)

hi guys, i m new in this forum.

Just have some query about the screws to fix the heatsink ... i got those screw like what they recommend in the 2nd post from Bunning, but i found it is a bit long, do you cut the screw to a suitable length, or is there any other exact size screw i can use to re-attach the heatsink to the mainboard?

They are probably not long enough for the need to have them cut b/c there is plenty of space for the screws to go above both the heatsinks. In other works, there isn't anything blocking the screws from sticking out of the CPU Heatsink bracket, and a good amount of leeway for the GPU Heatsink as well.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: desitdt on March 16, 2010, 06:20:00 PM

i recently performed this fix on two xbox and it worked both times, on the third not so much. When it turns on it waits, almost "pulses" the fan 3 times, then displays rrod. Ive tryed taking it back apart and performing it again. adding more/less arctic silver, tighter/looser screws. Can anyone give me some help?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: einchin on March 16, 2010, 06:38:00 PM

QUOTE(SlickWilly440 @ Mar 17 2010, 12:42 AM)

there is a limit to drill the thing thru to the top, mine heatsink is the square type of thing without those copperlike x clamp on it... will take a photo and post here later

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: einchin on March 16, 2010, 10:35:00 PM

http://blog.mlive.co...con_landed.html

mine heatsink looks like this website picture here

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: SlickWilly440 on March 16, 2010, 11:49:00 PM

Oh, I see. Sorry, I'm only familiar with my Xenon Board.

Then I guess you can go looking for shorter screws, or shorten your current screws. Have you actually, tested out the screws and found out they were too long, or does it just look that way with some uncertainty?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: einchin on March 17, 2010, 08:11:00 AM

hey i found the screw in the right size ... but now i have a problem , i put thermal paste lock them in , but how come the two redlights coming up ( last time was 3 ) , and the fan blowing heavily than last time ... and it shut down by itself afterwards , just after 3 seconds the xbox screen pop up .

Is it becos i never attach the heatsink properly ? or is it i never use any washer anything like that ?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: PPG on March 28, 2010, 04:20:00 AM

I have applied the fixing method sort of screws differ a bit so only used washers on board not under.The xbox worked immediately did not get 2 red may be did not left it on long enough.

The problem is when I fix the long screws the 3 red lights return. So I removed the 2 in middle. This way I get the green lights I have played for almost 2 hours with out any problems.

Do you think the fact that i only used the four corner screws is a problem ?

Do any one have an idea why the relights return with in seconds if I screw in the 2 middle screws

Thanks for the fix Lawdawg0931 Hope is more permanent than temporary. I struggled more to remove the cover than with the rest.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: 360ballin on May 04, 2010, 02:25:00 PM

no text tut?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: jblitz360 on July 11, 2010, 12:01:00 AM

Ok I posted my first post by mistake in rbs tutorial. So I am obviously new. I studied these videos over and over again watched and read about 10 other methods and really wanted to fully understand the reason this happens. I have a box that was made april 2006. It has lasted with extensive play till about a month ago. so 4 years + I considered myself extremely lucky all these years feeling somewhat "untouchable"I will warn in advance I'm a lil excited so prepare for a long winded explanation.So I went to Lowe's Home Depot and Ace for a combination of parts today after 4 days of research. The lowes part numbers are a lil different and the metric selection is very poor. they didn't have enough nylon washers to do the job but I got. Pan head machine screws m5-.80x10. They didn't have the hex style with screw slots and neither did the other two stores.
hillman 5mm flat washers and finally at my last stop 5mm nylon washers . Home Depot sucks for all of this for the record. So I followed lawdawg to the tee watching the video all the way thru twice before attempting then while I did mod pausing along the way if needed. I did put a nylon washer under board which wasnt in vid but I wanted to protect mobo. Cooked for 2 min let cool and 3rrod rite away.... Aghhhh

So I decided maybe do towel trick and that mod was succesful but that system needed to totally reset. But after 2 attempts no luck 3rrod right away. So now I'm contemplating takin out nylon under or addin penny trick to lawdawg.
Side note not so excited now. I was playing for a few min came down to type my success paused game just stopped typin to go check and rrod. Anyway so I added a steel washer under so 1 st 1 nyl mobo 1 nylo1 st and it booted right to green i was gonna cook but it started right up.
But now it 3rrod. I turn it off astart it up no red 5 min go by red?????????

My next step is heat gun.
I was so ready to brag and now I'm truly bummed I wish it wouldn't have worked at all i feel robbed. Any help is much appreciated

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: WorldFormula on July 11, 2010, 12:26:00 AM

http://xbox-experts....p-fix-released/

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: iispyderii on July 28, 2010, 12:59:00 AM

I did the Team HYBRID's Ultimate X-Clamp Fix and it worked!
I saw this tutorial and it said to go to xbox-experts.com and there was an updated tutorial which was Team Hybrid's fix. I did the homemade version and IT WORKS! I'M SO FRIGGIN HAPPY!

Xenon Mobo
Hitachi DVD Drive
Secondary RROD error: 0102 (xbox doesn't know what's wrong)

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: -l3x- on August 25, 2010, 10:15:00 PM

Does anyone know the name of the parts from home depot to fix the x reclamp?

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: joeherrera1927 on December 20, 2010, 01:27:00 PM

I tried the X-clamp trick and my X-box still does not work, Can anyone tell me why or what else i should try to get those stupid rings out.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Aahzman on February 23, 2011, 08:10:00 PM

Howdy! So, I scored a defunct xbox360 basic while i was moving some stuff for my sister into her new place. it powered up with the 3-light RROD, so after a little googling, I came across Lawdawg0931's tutorial and followed it to a T.

When i get to the step to power it up to "cook" the AS-5, it goes quicly from 3 lights to the 2 lights indicating overheat, but after 2 minutes, the heat sinks aren't even warm....

Remembering his caution that it could take up to 5min just to switch to 2 lights, I'm letting it sit for a few more, and checking the heat sinks every 30sec or so to see if they are getting warmer...4min in so far, and nothing...

No fans attached, just the dvd drive. video cable is plugged into my tv and the xbox.

Any suggestions?

Thanks guys!

Aahzman

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Aahzman on February 24, 2011, 05:24:00 PM

QUOTE(Aahzman @ Feb 23 2011, 10:10 PM)

Woot! Fixed it! Turns out the only proper diameter nylon washers i could get were a little too thick. so i pulled it apart and took out thmetal washers between the heat sink screwmounts and the nylon. i actually superglued the nylon washers over the holes to make it easier to deal with the screws. tightened em down finger tight. This time, it started getting warm almost immediately, took about 5min to switch to 2-lights overhead mode. gave it 2 minutes, shut it down, pulled the board, tightened everything up good and tight, and reassembled, plugged er in, and BAM, dashboard!

Only problem now, the damn DVD drive won't eject (it did before even with the 3L RROD).

Good progress tho!

Thanks Lawdawg!!!

Aahzman

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: MorbiusPrime on March 21, 2011, 12:31:00 PM

I love these tutorials. they are such a help. I did have one question on it to see if anyone else had this issue and how they fixed it.

After getting the xclamp fix finished it came on just fine. it worked for 2 days then 3RR again. I checked everything and found that the screws were a little loose. I have had to tighten them down three times now. The last time being this morning. Each time the screws seem a bit tighter but I do have to keep tightening them down and am hoping that if I do this enough it will stop loosening and work fine but I am worried that I may have to continue doing this.

Any suggestions??

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: iateshaggy on March 21, 2011, 06:43:00 PM

don't put screws in your heatsinks, this only guarantees permanent damage. the real way to fix a 360 cost money, so people rather use these "to good to be true" type fixes.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: Ccaveman84 on March 23, 2011, 06:57:00 PM

if you wish to fix your RROD this guide is the best

http://www.mediafire...z798n9nvxlpten8

it is a step by step guide and is very detailed and contains many picture references
I have used this guide myself and this is how I learned how to fix the RROD easily and cheaply

the great thing is this has been a permanent fix for me every time and I have now fixed many xbox's for friends and family using this very method

the file is in PDF format so you will need Adobe reader to read it
trust me with this PDF you will never need another guide again.

You can purchase all of the parts required from ebay very cheap around £3 but I would however suggest getting a separate silver or gold Thermal paste the White paste can be ok but is not always reliable, here is a link to help you.
http://shop.ebay.co....k...0&_nkw=RROD

Thank you to the guys at Tech Guy UK for providing this great guide.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: aphexzer on May 27, 2011, 09:19:00 PM

QUOTE(dvsone @ Apr 21 2007, 03:56 PM)

I had purchased the above parts:
"2 x Dan's Premium C/S MT Screws & Nuts Size 3/16x1/2 (Qty: 5 per packet)
2 x Zenith Flat Washers 3/16 (Qty: 25 per packet)"
From a local Bunnings in Australia and when attempting the mount I had noticed that the washers over-lapped each other between the CPU/GPU.
Using the suggested amount of washers front and back made the heatsinks un-mountable also when attempting just the CPU. I had used less washers and mounted them 2x front side of CPU and 3x backside of the GPU as any more/less and the tension was wrong.

It worked for around a week with limited game play and now from the 2 red light overheats that were the problem I now have the RROD.

As you can imagine I'm well pissed off with dvsone.
I advise others to avoid the listed parts as they are not a match.

I have since tried "baking" the baking via the Lawdawg0931 method in case there was cold solder joints but no luck. I've an Xbox 360 Elite and soon as it powers on the fans go off any way with the RROD. It won;t o to overheat unless I loosen the screws and even then the 2-3min bake time doesn't do anything. Otherwise I leave it as in the tutorial for 20-30min periods and the heat sinks don't even get hot and there's no chance of it going to 2 light overheat.

Any ideas Mr. Lawdawg0931??

I'm thinking of sending it off for a re-balling and GPU fix as we can get it done here for around $50.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sara135 on July 11, 2011, 04:26:00 AM

I've read both guides(im not trying to start a vs here mods wink.gif and I just need to ask a question for this method. I know in RBJtech's method, he has modified the heatsinks to fit the screws, and do you do any of that with this method or you just take the clamps out and replace them with screws+washers?

I've seen the reference picture in the guide, but it kinda confused me sleep.gif . Thanks.

Title: Tutorial : X-clamp Replacement - Lawdawg0931's Method
Post by: sinclairuser on November 27, 2011, 04:56:00 PM

tons of sellers on ebay for a couple of quid post free!
BUT its not recommended anymore it will only bodge it for a couple of months at the very best!
at the worst it will ruin the board personally i'd very carefully remove the xclamps clean the dies and reapply new paste just be very carefull there are loads of tuts out there to help
if xclamps are lose just GENTLY bend them back into shape if changingthe paste and cleaning gets it to boot
then you could buy a kit though i would not recomend it!
also use nylon washers not steel if i sound cautious its because as it sits now a PRO MAY BE ABLE TO FIX IT
however after its been bolted a real pro wont even touch it!
the thing is the net is full of fixes that are not really fixes just bodges from a time when we DID NOT KNOW ANY BETTER!
if it needs a reball its cheaper to buy a second hand console sad but true
cash generator have some good deals at the moment in the uk as they cannot sell an xbox360 unless its seals are intact 40-60 for a phat 80-95 for slim thats gbp.
the cost of a reball is around 50 quid so there not really worth repairing

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Xbox360 Forums => Xbox360 Hardware Forums => Xbox360 General / Hardware Chat => Topic started by: grim_d on April 21, 2007, 05:50:00 AM