Post by: Bassachusetts on January 10, 2010, 03:12:00 PM
-Bass
This post has been edited by Bassachusetts: Jan 10 2010, 11:19 PM
Post by: gregcy89 on January 14, 2010, 06:55:00 AM
i have the same problem with my elite...
ill try to help you out....but you must first tell me if this xbox 360 is hdmi equipped......
ok?
Post by: ste030 on January 14, 2010, 08:47:00 PM
Post by: Pikeyp on January 15, 2010, 02:31:00 AM
I'm afraid the only way that you are going to be able to repair this unit now is probably by reworking the GPU with an expensive Infrared Rework system.
I have one and have fixed quite a few now using this method but they are expensive to purchase.
Hope this helps....
Regards.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
This post has been edited by Pikeyp: Jan 15 2010, 10:32 AM
Post by: iTry on January 16, 2010, 09:02:00 PM
Clean off all exsisting traces of thermal gel with rubbing alcohol or arctic clean (i used arctic clean)
Preheater set to 177 celsius
Place clean motherboard on preheat about 3/4 of an inch from the heating surface
Place bga nozzle as close to your motherboard as you can without touching it directly above the hana chip
Turn on hot air rework station half air power at 100 celsius, wait one minute
Turn up to air power 60 at 200 celsius, turn off preheater, wait one minute
Keep at air power 60 turn heat to 300 celsius 3-5 minutes
Let cool one hour
Replace thermal gel and heatsinks
Shousl be good to go, i have one e74 that has run no problem for the last 6 monthes,
the other is a new repair so far so good
I use a BlackJack bk4050 for my rework station
I dont use hardware store heatguns, or hot air welders as they are NOT designed for bga repairs
And i dont have enough cash for a IR rework station
None of my repairs have ever come back and have repaired 45+ consoles
Hope this helps
If anyone has any more rework tips for me i would love to hear them =)
Post by: gregcy89 on January 17, 2010, 01:25:00 AM
i wanna tell you something but its really weird...
the first time when i fixed my 360 elite(hdmi of course) x-clamp from ebay , it lasted 1.5 month
then it kept freezing untill rrod appeared
then i did it again and it lasted 2 weeks and then every day....
the weird thing is that when i did it for the last time i just repeated evey step of xclamp and I LOWERE THE DISPLAY OUTPUT and it works 5 days with hard playing evey day....(4-5 hours without a single stop)...
its really weird .....isnt it?
i believe its the ANA chip which does the 1080p scaling
thats why many elite with an hdmi output are unfixable.....but they can be fixed by lowering the output resolution after you perform an xclamp fix successfully.....
thats why im asking Bassachusetts if he has hdmi on his 360.....
This post has been edited by gregcy89: Jan 17 2010, 09:26 AM
Post by: jeffrey92 on January 27, 2010, 01:03:00 PM
-putting in oven for a few hours at a low temp to try to unflex board --> then do xclamp
- complete oven reflow (should do the trick)
in my experience, e74 has always been a gpu problem so focus on that. Also, I personally recommend to remove epoxy before a reflow. you can do this by heating up the board... get a pan or something and heat it up really nice for a good 5 + minutes and then use a popsicle stick or small screwdriver to carefully remove epoxy before you do the reflow
Post by: Machine15825 on January 31, 2010, 09:37:00 PM
Post by: Copter64 on April 10, 2010, 02:11:00 PM
While holding it there I decided to use the heatgun and turn it onto cool and blew the heat off while keeping pressure on the chip.
Haven't had any issues yet.
And e74 is RARELY a gpu issue, most gpu issues don't even allow video to display at all.
This post has been edited by Copter64: Apr 10 2010, 09:12 PM
Post by: Copter64 on April 21, 2010, 09:55:00 AM
Post by: nitz0 on April 22, 2010, 01:25:00 PM
Like I said, I Re-Flow GPU only and have 98% success rate on first Re-Flow, even on the ones previously repaired/heat gunned.
Also, heat gunning is a bad idea and it's just going to ruin the solder balls under the BGA's as you're pushing too much heat/air onto the solder balls, they need to be slowly increased by a few degrees a second.
If you can't get it going, send it off to someone to get it repaired. Check out 360RepairKings via Ebay($25)
Post by: Copter64 on April 27, 2010, 11:30:00 AM
I have been playing on a xenon that I have fixed and it has been running great. But I want to just use my HDMI instead, so I think I may just end up using the 12v mod or try to make the dvd external then use a cpu heatsink on the GPU, i'm sick of the crappy thermal design.
I may end up removing the shroud keeping the back fans around 6v then putting my big fan at 12v, but i have to figure out where the hell to put my DVD-drive.
Any suggestions?
Here is my current setup, but the gpu of course is blocked by the DVD....
Post by: gregcy89 on January 19, 2011, 04:47:00 AM
i placed one on cpu
one on gpu
120mm 2.000rpm fan outside+the dvd drive is outside.....COLD!
Post by: Crawler on February 05, 2011, 03:52:00 PM
Post by: MorboTron on February 18, 2011, 11:42:00 PM
After re-flowing the motherboard (Read as HANA and GPU with a rework station and preheater, NOT heat gun), and straightening the metal housing out, all three have been running for 5 months, 3 months, and 3 hours respectively. The first two had E74 occurrences over and over again until I straightened the metal housings. I think it may have to do with the housing flexing the motherboard while the board is warm and distorting it as it cools.
No this is by far not a be-all-end-all fix, because there is distinct possibility of a bad chip, but the three most recent systems I have repaired are showing no issues.
So, check those metal housings. It could be part of your issue.
Post by: soryu on March 10, 2011, 04:53:00 AM
The best you can do is to reball GPU. They usually stay 4-8 months after what i see by repairing over a couple of hundred systems.
Post by: umpa2011 on April 11, 2011, 03:17:00 AM
Thus far they seem OK but its early days. From my limited experience on fixing these things I have come to the conclusion is that paint stripping guns & X-clamp mods seem to do more damage than good, and nearly always fail quickly and make a more stable repair much harder in the future.
Now I'm not saying that in the correct hands that these procedures don't work - but as a rule of thumb they are done by amateurs as a last resort (like my self) and usually end up de-laminating (pop corning) the chip or board.
After using the T-862++ I think I am right is saying the T-862 with its smaller pre-heat tray would also work for re-flow but I went with the T-862++ just to be sure.
I think the main factor here is the jig, it really is an essential piece of kit regardless of the method of re-heat you use.
Post by: sharer on May 10, 2011, 07:32:00 AM
i have the same problem with my consoles. and who can help me? thanks !