Post by: brandogg on January 31, 2009, 09:51:00 PM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on February 01, 2009, 12:18:00 AM
(IMG:http://natane.net/temp/mykeyextractor.jpg)
a premade rs232-ttl converter will have at least 4 pins or pads to connect to(vcc, gnd, tx, rx).
good luck!
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Feb 1 2009, 08:21 AM
Post by: brandogg on February 01, 2009, 11:10:00 PM
Post by: Hype on February 01, 2009, 11:57:00 PM
(IMG:http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/3540/poweronoffwc7.jpg)
this on/off switch is very useful for the CKv1.
This post has been edited by Hype: Feb 2 2009, 07:58 AM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on February 02, 2009, 02:37:00 AM
QUOTE(brandogg @ Feb 1 2009, 10:46 PM) 
Yeah, now I see where I'm going wrong. Basically I was trying to piece together too many guides and make my own simple tool. Where did you get your rs232-ttl adapter? I like your setup there...I do have a dead Xbox 1 PSU that I could probably get all of the needed pieces for the yaywoop-inspired adapter, but being as it's a dead PSU, I don't know exactly what still works on it. Only one way to find out I guess. Thanks.
i have owned that ttl converter for awhile - originally bought it on ebay for less than $10
QUOTE(Hype @ Feb 1 2009, 11:33 PM)
a little add-on:
this on/off switch is very useful for the CKv1.
yes, i added a switch to that particular setup. i also ended up replacing the molex adapter with one that was designed for addon case fans with a 4 pin connector. this works perfectly with the ttl converter which has 4 pins on the other side of the solder connections i made.
those 2 changes made it easier to use with liteons as well as kept the original purpose of flashing any other 360 drive(without the ttl converter connected via solder)...
however, i actually replaced that kit with something much better that a bst'er made for me per my specs. i found a picture that the bst'er took and posted himself so hopefully this link works. check it out:
the full meter of length makes a big difference to my setup and it is not flimsy at all.
Post by: Dre@m on February 02, 2009, 02:45:00 AM
This post has been edited by Dre@m: Feb 2 2009, 10:46 AM
Post by: brandogg on February 03, 2009, 08:55:00 AM
(IMG:http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/7346/dscn0316fr9.jpg)
Post by: some.fatty on February 04, 2009, 11:50:00 AM
Post by: brandogg on February 04, 2009, 12:09:00 PM
Post by: some.fatty on February 04, 2009, 12:36:00 PM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on February 04, 2009, 01:06:00 PM
for the future benefit of anybody who clicks on this thread for information pertaining to the original title, here is a link to the CHEAPEST ttl converters i have found anywhere...
http://alldav.com
i have not purchased from them yet. somebody posted a link to an offtopic tutorial which included a link to the $4 rs232-ttl converters on that site.
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Feb 4 2009, 09:19 PM
Post by: some.fatty on February 04, 2009, 05:54:00 PM
Post by: brandogg on February 05, 2009, 12:23:00 AM
Edit - this costs exactly $5.90 to build at Radio Shack (if you live in Florida), so you'd save a couple bucks ordering from the site STICKY BUD linked to, but you'd have to wait for shipping, I've got to admit $4 is one Hell of a deal.
This post has been edited by brandogg: Feb 5 2009, 08:26 AM
Post by: some.fatty on February 13, 2009, 01:18:00 PM
Post by: brandogg on February 14, 2009, 12:43:00 AM
Post by: some.fatty on February 14, 2009, 04:41:00 PM
Post by: brandogg on February 14, 2009, 09:40:00 PM
Post by: dialtone187 on February 18, 2009, 06:19:00 AM
Post by: skippyd on March 08, 2009, 03:49:00 AM
QUOTE(brandogg @ Feb 14 2009, 01:19 AM)
Yes, it worked perfectly. I did move the Molex connection to the right side of the board, and the spear comes from the bottom now...with a much longer wire. I might get a box to stuff it in, so I don't have to constantly make sure it's not going to ground out on something.
did you use a 3.3v or 5v regulator?
Post by: BigShug105 on March 20, 2009, 12:33:00 PM
Post by: STICKY_BUD on March 21, 2009, 11:41:00 AM
QUOTE(dialtone187 @ Feb 18 2009, 06:55 AM)
Ok hey guys i need some help I have the same items as the 2nd posters pic (a v1 connectivity kit and a rs232 ttl adapter). Now I'm not exactly trying to make my v1 connectivity kit into that but just flash me 1st liteon period. I'm just using my v1 connectivity kit to power my liteon and using the rs232 ttl adapter seperatly as a probe to dump my key. I've been having a tough time decyphering the schematics for homemade adapters so the only cheap option that seemed to be the easiest was a premade rs232 ttl adapter altho i was not sure what I had to do with it. I got some advice from a user in fw on efnet and he said all I needed to do was solder a single wire to the rx point on my rs232 ttl adapter (which would act as my probe) and add a needle, he said the sata cable would act as a ground so i wouldnt have to worry all i needed was the one wire. Well the setup doesn't seem to work as my via6421 is detecting the drive and com1 is detecting my rs232 ttl adapter and is reporting ready but when i put the probe to the r707 hole and go to dump the key I get 'warning serial data is bad' from jungleflasher, which i get the same error if i try and dump without the probe touching so I assume somethin is up. I think it is one of two things, 1 being I was given bad info and I needed to wire up the adapter differently and 2 being the sewing needle i soldered to the end of the wire is too fat as it can only get 1-2mm into the r707 hole until it gets stuck and won't go in any further and thus not making a connection. If anyone can give me a simple noob solution so I can flash a liteon with this adapter as simple as possible I would be vert grateful. Thanks guys.
i know this is an old post, but if anyone else reads this and needs the answer. dialtone187 is needing 2 things to complete his kit fropm where he was at the point in time he wrote this post...
first, he needs to provide power to his rs232-ttl converter. this can be from any number of sources and most likely anything from 3-5v will be enough. he could get the power from the molex connector used for his ck1/2, a modified usb cable could also provide the power and the dvd cable has power options that are easy to grab as well. i used the molex power option, but any of these will be fine.
second, he needs scrape a bit of the coating from the r707 pcb hole to get a good read. he does not have to push the probe into the hole, he just needs to get a solid connection. in other words, the connection happens at the edge of the via hole, not deeper inside.