Post by: yaywoop on December 23, 2008, 07:52:00 PM
here is a neat way to save $50 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
No soldering to the drive is required, but you will need to solder the basic circuit together.
http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=flashyourliteonf
This time I wrote the tutorial off site (so I can edit it in the future if need be, like when new software becomes available, or to add a dos section for VIA owners etc.)
there will soon be a forum on xbox-experts too, so post any comments here or there.
This post has been edited by yaywoop: Dec 24 2008, 03:59 AM
Post by: sammyo on December 23, 2008, 09:18:00 PM
If I powered the dvd from xbox (instead of pc), do I need to additionally connect the DVD ground to the pc ground (say, pc casing / black cable on the pc molex power)? so they have a common ground?
Or it's unecessary as the serial cable already ground the DVD to the pc, so both already has a common ground?
thanks.
Post by: yaywoop on December 23, 2008, 10:01:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 24, 2008, 10:12:00 PM
Post by: sprites on December 25, 2008, 02:54:00 AM
i don't have a liteon drive but as com ports are becoming quite rare nowadays...
Post by: yaywoop on December 25, 2008, 03:13:00 AM
and most motherboards will have internal headers for serial even if they don't have any on the back. see the motherboard manual.
Post by: Juvenal1228 on December 25, 2008, 05:32:00 AM
that thing rocks!!!!
Post by: leviantanious on December 25, 2008, 03:04:00 PM
1. How do I get the power for my circuit from molex. Do I just stick the wire to the right hole (how can you make it stay in)?
2. I have com ports in my motherboard, but I don't have a serial cable right now. Is there a way to do this without buying the cable (I know they don't cost much..)? Connecting the wires staight to the com port's pins or something..
3. There is a manual eject hole in the xbox. I was readin from the other thread that using this you don't have to pull any pins from the drive. He is talking about the ejecting part only. There is no other way for the drive to stay half way open than pulling the 3. pin. Am I correct?
Thank you for your answers. I've been reading these diy Lite on key threads for the past few days like crazy...
Post by: JBmtk on December 25, 2008, 03:12:00 PM
QUOTE(leviantanious @ Dec 25 2008, 05:40 PM) 
Thank you for this great tutorial! I found the right transistor and the resistors from an old radio. I have still few questions though...
1. How do I get the power for my circuit from molex. Do I just stick the wire to the right hole (how can you make it stay in)?
2. I have com ports in my motherboard, but I don't have a serial cable right now. Is there a way to do this without buying the cable (I know they don't cost much..)? Connecting the wires staight to the com port's pins or something..
3. There is a manual eject hole in the xbox. I was readin from the other thread that using this you don't have to pull any pins from the drive. He is talking about the ejecting part only. There is no other way for the drive to stay half way open than pulling the 3. pin. Am I correct?
Thank you for your answers. I've been reading these diy Lite on key threads for the past few days like crazy...
1. yes, it from the molex...what i did was find a female end molex I was not using and then strip off the end of that 5v wire to use to power my circuit. I'm sure you will find a way to stick a wire in there.
2. YES! make sure you lookup your motherboard manual to find out the pin layout. Beware, not all motherboard's COM port pins go straight across...Use some pin headers to go over the pins....or else twist wires
3. Yes, you can use manual eject....
Post by: yaywoop on December 25, 2008, 05:11:00 PM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Dec 26 2008, 09:48 AM)
1. yes, it from the molex...what i did was find a female end molex I was not using and then strip off the end of that 5v wire to use to power my circuit. I'm sure you will find a way to stick a wire in there.
2. YES! make sure you lookup your motherboard manual to find out the pin layout. Beware, not all motherboard's COM port pins go straight across...Use some pin headers to go over the pins....or else twist wires
3. Yes, you can use manual eject....
and for a cheaper way to get power from the molex, you just strip any wire, fold the bare wire back and put it in the hole. make sure you don't short out any pins!!
you can get the header socket to fit on the pins by cutting up an old IDE cable. make sure you read the mobo manual for the correct pinouts
hmm no matter what I tried I couldn't get the manual eject thing to work without pulling pin 3. donno.
Post by: hippodude100 on December 25, 2008, 05:30:00 PM
Post by: solin on December 25, 2008, 06:44:00 PM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Dec 25 2008, 11:48 PM)
1. yes, it from the molex...what i did was find a female end molex I was not using and then strip off the end of that 5v wire to use to power my circuit. I'm sure you will find a way to stick a wire in there.
2. YES! make sure you lookup your motherboard manual to find out the pin layout. Beware, not all motherboard's COM port pins go straight across...Use some pin headers to go over the pins....or else twist wires
3. Yes, you can use manual eject....
Have a question regarding the Serial cable; I want to use a "serial null modem" cable since I' have a whole bunch, but from the schematic of the cable; it's not a direct connection on both ends:
Connector 1 Connector 2 Function
2 3 Rx Tx
3 2 Tx Rx
5 5 Signal ground
Will it work if I' just swap the connections on connector 2?......
Thanks for your help. & it's a great design by the way......
Post by: yaywoop on December 25, 2008, 11:39:00 PM
QUOTE(solin @ Dec 26 2008, 01:20 PM)
Have a question regarding the Serial cable; I want to use a "serial null modem" cable since I' have a whole bunch, but from the schematic of the cable; it's not a direct connection on both ends:
Connector 1 Connector 2 Function
2 3 Rx Tx
3 2 Tx Rx
5 5 Signal ground
Will it work if I' just swap the connections on connector 2?......
Thanks for your help. & it's a great design by the way......
probably. I would make sure with a multimeter.
Post by: plugin on December 26, 2008, 02:38:00 AM
There was no transistor on the whole board that matched the ones you set as example, but in the power source area of the VHS I found two transistors which fortunately have the BCE labeled on the board. The first one (C4418) and bigger one is this:
(IMG:http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww180/pluginm/HMSpear1.jpg)
On that same area on the VHS I found this second one (C3377). Smaller but still has the BCE labeled on the board. Notice the difference in size comparing it to the first one which appears on the following shot at the top right hand corner.
(IMG:http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww180/pluginm/HMSpear2.jpg)
I did find the resistors on the main board. My only concern is that they are very small. I'm positive that I can de-solder them but I don't know if the size will determine anything that I should be aware of:
(IMG:http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww180/pluginm/HMSpear3.jpg)
Thanks in advance.
This post has been edited by plugin: Dec 26 2008, 10:40 AM
Post by: snmp on December 26, 2008, 02:47:00 AM
QUOTE(sprites @ Dec 25 2008, 11:30 AM)
could this done through usb?
i don't have a liteon drive but as com ports are becoming quite rare nowadays...
click the link in my signature if your interested in a cheap usb solution requires absolutely no soldering.
yes the 360 eject method worx(best imo) and requires no pin pulling.
Post by: yaywoop on December 26, 2008, 04:19:00 AM
QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 26 2008, 09:14 PM)
Yaywoop, I've got some questions regarding the use of correct salvaged parts. I've torn apart an old Sony VHS player and found the following items that I think are the correct ones for the job.
There was no transistor on the whole board that matched the ones you set as example, but in the power source area of the VHS I found two transistors which fortunately have the BCE labeled on the board. The first one (C4418) and bigger one is this:
On that same area on the VHS I found this second one (C3377). Smaller but still has the BCE labeled on the board. Notice the difference in size comparing it to the first one which appears on the following shot at the top right hand corner.
I did find the resistors on the main board. My only concern is that they are very small. I'm positive that I can de-solder them but I don't know if the size will determine anything that I should be aware of:
Thanks in advance.
don't use those large power transistors, use the smaller one. To test if the transistor is an npn, get a ohm meter (or battery resistor and led) put the positive lead on the base, if its an NPN you should get a reading when you put the negative lead on the collector and emitter.
those resistors are fine.
Post by: effbee05 on December 26, 2008, 01:43:00 PM
From testing it I have 5v on the probe, is that correct?
And for the simple circuit can I use a PNP transistor? (I have a bunch lying around) How would that be wired?
Post by: plugin on December 26, 2008, 01:52:00 PM
Another thing I wanted to clear up is that in one tutorial you instruct to remove Pin 9 from the power to the drive, and in the other one you instruct to remove Pin 3. Which one is it?
Thanks yaywoop
This post has been edited by plugin: Dec 26 2008, 10:09 PM
Post by: DavGerm4 on December 26, 2008, 02:26:00 PM
Post by: plugin on December 26, 2008, 02:27:00 PM
Sorry for the double post but it wouldn't allow me to edit.
Post by: effbee05 on December 26, 2008, 03:04:00 PM
QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 26 2008, 05:03 PM)
I've just noticed that the Maximus software does recognize my COM port. Can this homebrew probe be used with the Maximus software?
Sorry for the double post but it wouldn't allow me to edit.
Yes, you can use it, that's what I used to get everything but a good key...
Post by: plugin on December 26, 2008, 03:08:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 26, 2008, 03:18:00 PM
QUOTE(effbee05 @ Dec 27 2008, 08:19 AM)
I tried to build the alternative DIY circuit from your tutorial but it doesn't seem to be working.
From testing it I have 5v on the probe, is that correct?
And for the simple circuit can I use a PNP transistor? (I have a bunch lying around) How would that be wired?
it should work. I made one from that scematic which worked. measure the voltage on the capacitor, and measure the voltage on pin 2 when you connect 'Pic TxD' to ground and when its connected to 3.3V
also use 3.3V as the supply voltage for that circuit instead of 5V
QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 27 2008, 08:28 AM)
I've built the hardware but Jungleflasher won't recognize the drive and it won't recognize the serial port either. Is there a workaround for this? I have an intel SATA chipset.
Another thing I wanted to clear up is that in one tutorial you instruct to remove Pin 9 from the power to the drive, and in the other one you instruct to remove Pin 3. Which one is it?
Thanks yaywoop
The work around is to use DOS, see the ix15.txt which comes with the firmware. you could also try installing com port drivers for windows..
its pin 3 to remove. I said pin 9 in the old tute because i was using a different pinout.
QUOTE(DavGerm4 @ Dec 27 2008, 09:02 AM)
When I flashed my buddy's Liteon, I didn't remove any pin from the drive. Because since you have the bottom cover off the drive, you can actually slide the notch for the emergency eject on the drive. Then you can just pull it out, and push it back in half way.
I did test that theory, it wouldn't work for me..
Post by: plugin on December 26, 2008, 03:38:00 PM
Post by: effbee05 on December 26, 2008, 05:43:00 PM
Post by: plugin on December 26, 2008, 05:49:00 PM
Should I flash booting on DOS or should I use jungleflasher?
Post by: yaywoop on December 26, 2008, 06:25:00 PM
QUOTE(plugin @ Dec 27 2008, 12:25 PM)
Just tried it. It worked. The files produced by jungleflasher are identical in size to the ones produced by Xtractor. This makes me think that I've got valid files. My only concern now is that you said that the key you got with the Xtractor app was no good, but in my case, both apps produce the same key and files.
Should I flash booting on DOS or should I use jungleflasher?
try jungleflasher, if it fails, boot in to dos and finish the job
Post by: plugin on December 26, 2008, 06:49:00 PM
(IMG:http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww180/pluginm/homemadespear.jpg)
yaywoop, you're the man. Thanks a bunch.
Post by: BioFUSION on December 26, 2008, 08:26:00 PM
one I have lying around, but dont think they have sata.... This is one of the cables I came across
in my search.
(IMG:http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y31/biofusion/serialpt.jpg)
I was thinking, for it to be setup this way, wouldnt the usb and serial already be joined, and I
could just use the serial end as the db9 connector and plug in the usb end?
Thanks for the help all.
Post by: yaywoop on December 27, 2008, 06:31:00 AM
QUOTE(BioFUSION @ Dec 27 2008, 03:02 PM)
Hey guys, just realized I don't have a serial port on my pc, might have to resurrect an old
one I have lying around, but dont think they have sata.... This is one of the cables I came across
in my search.
I was thinking, for it to be setup this way, wouldnt the usb and serial already be joined, and I
could just use the serial end as the db9 connector and plug in the usb end?
Thanks for the help all.
hmm donno. I think the digicam might have supported both usb and serial directly through the plug, so there would be no circuitry in the adapter. the only way to tell is to open it up (or take an x-ray
)actually you could tell by seeing if your computer detects anything when you plug in the usb without the digicam connected.
Post by: shookie on December 27, 2008, 09:03:00 AM
First and foremost... Happy Holidays... and thanks for enlighting us with your creations...
I managed to find an old walkman and cracked it open to find a PNP transistor... i know the layout so i well use that. However... im having a hard time identifying resistors... Is there any special way to know which i s 1k and 10k... my multimeter broke so i dont have one at the moment. thanks...
Also i don't have a comport... how do i do this with no com port.... im using a laptop with no comport.
Post by: shookie on December 27, 2008, 11:41:00 AM
QUOTE(shookie @ Dec 27 2008, 05:39 PM)
Yaywoop...
First and foremost... Happy Holidays... and thanks for enlighting us with your creations...
I managed to find an old walkman and cracked it open to find a PNP transistor... i know the layout so i well use that. However... im having a hard time identifying resistors... Is there any special way to know which i s 1k and 10k... my multimeter broke so i dont have one at the moment. thanks...
Also i don't have a comport... how do i do this with no com port.... im using a laptop with no comport.
Nevermind...
Post by: brubaldu on December 27, 2008, 11:44:00 AM
(IMG:http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/2507/dibujo2au5.jpg)
This post has been edited by brubaldu: Dec 27 2008, 07:47 PM
Post by: shookie on December 27, 2008, 03:12:00 PM
(IMG:http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii375/substancev/Untitled1.jpg)
blue wire is ground (pin 5)
red go's to pin 2
black goes to the molex
base ping from the transistor is bent backwards... so gold points to the yellow wire which connects to Tx
Am i missing anything?? besides the serial port... (and serial capabilities on my laptop :\) This setup fits in a pen...
Please advise.
Post by: yaywoop on December 27, 2008, 05:55:00 PM
Post by: shookie on December 27, 2008, 06:54:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 27 2008, 08:31 PM) 
shookie, what transistor is that?
pn2222a
I used hot glue to protect from shorts.
the point was a dremel bit that i had plenty of. That should make a good contact.
Also i just got my hands on a DB9 male to male gender changer. I was going to solder to the pins and leave it at that... that should work right?
also would a usb to db9 cable do the trick?
one more thing should i ground pin5 to the molex and splice in a bull dog clip for the case?
This post has been edited by shookie: Dec 28 2008, 02:56 AM
Post by: shookie on December 27, 2008, 07:18:00 PM
QUOTE(shookie @ Dec 27 2008, 09:30 PM)
pn2222a
I used hot glue to protect from shorts.
the point was a dremel bit that i had plenty of. That should make a good contact.
Also i just got my hands on a DB9 male to male gender changer. I was going to solder to the pins and leave it at that... that should work right?
also would a usb to db9 cable do the trick?
one more thing should i ground pin5 to the molex and splice in a bull dog clip for the case?
I didnt need to solder the pins to the other side of the port... that connector i had was able to make the connection simply by splitting it in two and wedging it to the correct pins.
Post by: BioFUSION on December 27, 2008, 10:50:00 PM
So you know, the pc is a 1.3ghz celeron processor, 256mb ram, I threw my via rc-212 card in it.
http://i2.photobucke...liteon/img1.jpg
http://i2.photobucke...liteon/img2.jpg
http://i2.photobucke...liteon/img3.jpg
Hope I made everything descriptive enough.
Post by: shookie on December 27, 2008, 11:21:00 PM
QUOTE(BioFUSION @ Dec 28 2008, 01:26 AM)
ok, my attempt didnt work, could be a number of reasons, from using an old celeron desktop I had lying around because my main system doesn't have a serial port, or shotty soldering, could be the female ends used to connect to serial port, the needle may not be skinny enough, it touches r707's hole but doesnt go inside the hole or anything, blah blah blah. Please check out these images and give me any advice. I had electric tape on everything, but removed it to take pics.
So you know, the pc is a 1.3ghz celeron processor, 256mb ram, I threw my via rc-212 card in it.
http://i2.photobucke...liteon/img1.jpg
http://i2.photobucke...liteon/img2.jpg
http://i2.photobucke...liteon/img3.jpg
Hope I made everything descriptive enough.
I haven't done this yet... actually im in the process of doing it myself. However i do see some "potential" problems....
1: The contact between the probe and the board (r707). I suggest getting a sewing needle or a kitchen knife and carefully scrape around the r707 hole. You will slow see the copper starting to expose...
2: Access wiring? You may have some signal loss?
Hope this helps some... try my first suggestion i just did it because my tip didn't look like it was making contact.
Post by: shookie on December 28, 2008, 12:42:00 AM
yaywoop: Thanks for the schematics on creating this free key dump... take that ck3 & maximus
Post by: BioFUSION on December 28, 2008, 01:41:00 AM
Maybe you mean signal loss from twisting the spots on a few of them?
Post by: goremania on December 28, 2008, 02:36:00 AM
The transistor work fine, i tested it with my multimeter, it does invert. I've put my motherboard who is a asus p5ld2 on compatible mode sata only, the computer does reconize the drive. then i opened the tray, cut off the power, push the tray half way , removed pin3 from the drive, power on again. then i tried to get the key from various software like dvdkey32,jungle flasher and xtractor, all of them could get the inquerity.bin and the identity.bin but they all said key is invalid and they gave me an outpout like 00000 or CCCCC.I even probe the r707 test point and the rx pin of the serial port with a scope to see if the data was correctly retrived from my conection and it was. I've even test my serial port entrance with a loopback on the tx-rx with hyper terminal and with the help of a diode and a variable power supply i've found that my port accept up to 0.8v for -3.3v signal rs232. Then i check back the scope with the circuit and the 0 at the rx is a perfect zero and the 1 is a good 5v. Now i think i've eliminated a lot of error factor, but i still can't get the key, any advice ?
ps: sorry for my english
Post by: yaywoop on December 28, 2008, 05:11:00 AM
QUOTE(goremania @ Dec 28 2008, 09:12 PM)
Hi, i've got trouble reading my lite-on key. i managed to build the schematic as shown in the first post.
The transistor work fine, i tested it with my multimeter, it does invert. I've put my motherboard who is a asus p5ld2 on compatible mode sata only, the computer does reconize the drive. then i opened the tray, cut off the power, push the tray half way , removed pin3 from the drive, power on again. then i tried to get the key from various software like dvdkey32,jungle flasher and xtractor, all of them could get the inquerity.bin and the identity.bin but they all said key is invalid and they gave me an outpout like 00000 or CCCCC.I even probe the r707 test point and the rx pin of the serial port with a scope to see if the data was correctly retrived from my conection and it was. I've even test my serial port entrance with a loopback on the tx-rx with hyper terminal and with the help of a diode and a variable power supply i've found that my port accept up to 0.8v for -3.3v signal rs232. Then i check back the scope with the circuit and the 0 at the rx is a perfect zero and the 1 is a good 5v. Now i think i've eliminated a lot of error factor, but i still can't get the key, any advice ?
ps: sorry for my english
do any of the tools say 'your serial appears to be working' or something like that?
you could try it in DOS using dvdkey.
I just found a siemens rs-232 data cable ( IP40 ) I cut it open and found it contained a max3386.. for anyone else who has one lying around, the wires are colored black = ground, red = 3V to 5V, orange = Rxd (connect this to Tx on the drive) white = Txd
Post by: valex76x on December 28, 2008, 06:53:00 AM
After 2 days that I fight with my PC I'm here for ask your help.Sorry for my english!
My proplem is that DosFlash don't see my Liteon.
This is the situation:
PC motherboard is an ASUS a7n8x-e_deluxe with 2 SATA ports. The SATA RAID chipset is Silicon Image Sil 3112A.
The Liteon is connect to the second SATA port (in the first there is the PC hardisk) and poweed by the console. From the Hardware proprieties, if i select the SATA controller Silicon Image I can see 2 devices connected: The PC hardisk and the liteon.
I can't unistall the SATA drives because when I reboot the pc Windows xp find the new hardware and install again the drivers.
DosFlash don't see my Liteon. I have tried the 32 version from windows and the 16 version from a bootable floppy disk. In both case the program sees only the 4 IDE ports and gives the message No Atapi device present.
Also with iPrep is the same story.
I have tried with the program XtractorReader and clicking in Search All Sata Ports and Scan for 360 Drives it give me the message XBOX 360 Device found on Port 9C00. This program see 4 IDE ports and 4 SATA ports. In one of the sata ports there is the Liteon.
I did a bootable floppy disk with Dvdkey inside.
I have connected my home made rs-232 (transistor, 2 resistors and the pin) and booted the pc from the floppy.
I have given the command dvdkey 9C00 and the program has given me the 3 files Key.bin,Inquiry.bin and Identify.bin .
I have tried 3 times this and the key is alwais the same.
With JungleFlasher I have created the file dummi and the hacked firmware Lite_CFH.
Also in JungleFlasher, when I select DosFlash (or MTK Flash 32) I can see only the 4 IDE ports but not Sata.
Please help!
Thank you
This post has been edited by valex76x: Dec 28 2008, 02:59 PM
Post by: shookie on December 28, 2008, 10:17:00 AM
QUOTE(BioFUSION @ Dec 28 2008, 04:17 AM)
Not sure what you mean by access wiring, I used wire removed from a dvd player I scrapped looking for the components, I figured if it was good enough for that it would work for this situation, let me know if I am wrong.
Maybe you mean signal loss from twisting the spots on a few of them?
No... not that.. i just though that your setup has a lot of wiring. However....i would recommend scraping r707 hole to slightly expose the copper pad. If your crazy about maintaining your warranty like i am... a little unnoticable scrape with a needle or xacto knife will do the trick.
BTW my flash was successful. My media and possibly my burner is no good. burner is stock hp pavilion laptop (SlimType)
Post by: SzczurekPB88 on December 28, 2008, 01:59:00 PM
First of all - english is not my language (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Second - I'm a n00b (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Where I can find that kind of cable http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/y...60/overview.jpg (cable to serial point) Can I do it by myself?
This post has been edited by SzczurekPB88: Dec 28 2008, 10:01 PM
Post by: mrakuma on December 28, 2008, 07:54:00 PM
The only thing that I would change, on enfasise, in the tutorial is that the pin layout for the dvd power connector is for the DVD, and if you are going to remove the cable from your existing xbox power cable, it's not the same pin.
sorry for my english, I don't know if I am clear enough.
Thanks again for this great tutorial!
Patrick
Post by: yifan_lu on December 28, 2008, 10:56:00 PM
Here's what it looks like right now:
(Underneath the tape are the parts soldered together)
P.S: Is there any way to test the device before messing with the 360?
Post by: goremania on December 29, 2008, 12:21:00 AM
i just tried dvdkey 1.2 in dos and it give me the sega: 54 error but it tell me that the com port is okay by doing a manual eject without pin 3 removed. but if i remove it, it say that there is no communication with the port. then if i look at the scope, when i remove the pin 3 from the psu the signal is clearly lost. Are you sure that i need to remove pin 3 ?
I tried different sata port and it doesn't to do the job either. by the way dvdkey is able to get the inquerty and the identity.
thanks for the further help
Post by: shookie on December 29, 2008, 12:35:00 AM
QUOTE(yifan_lu @ Dec 29 2008, 01:32 AM)
Hello, I'm a noob at this, and I think I followed the directions correctly, but can someone tell me if I did it right or what I need to change. Also I want to know if ground is needed? (I didn't bother). Thanks.
Here's what it looks like right now:
(Underneath the tape are the parts soldered together)
P.S: Is there any way to test the device before messing with the 360?
This setup looks clean. Try it out there a point you cannot go past if this doesn't work so no worries trying.
Connect the power hook up the probe and read the info.. post your error's
Post by: KinG_Td on December 29, 2008, 05:09:00 PM
Here is my setup
Whole Setup
Molex connector
DB9 Connector
Probe Connector
For the probe, i used a safety pin and bent it to fit a BIC pen, solder wires to the pin and stuff it all in the pen, then used a glue gun to secure it.
The Molex was used from one of the broken PSU's that i had. Also all wires were used from the molex wires.
As for the NPN transistor and resistors, i just purchased them from Radio Shack
Here are the links
NPN Transistors: Model: 2N2222
1K Resistor: Model: 271-1321
10K Resistor: Model: 271-1335
DB9 Connector: 9-Position Female Solder D-Sub Connector
I had a tiny problem reading the drive because my system didnt show me the COM port (Since im using a USB2Serial adapter). So i typed in COM4 (Which is mines), and it worked perfectly.
Thanks for the tut yaywoop
Post by: matt_cooper_1987 on December 29, 2008, 05:49:00 PM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 26 2008, 01:06 AM)
Or you can get the 5V from the drive itself ..., works fine to
dont do this! i did it and am out an xbox!
burnt out
Post by: plumberboy on December 29, 2008, 06:11:00 PM
Post by: KinG_Td on December 29, 2008, 06:22:00 PM
that is pin 3. Its the bottom wire of where he is pointing.
Yes, its suppose to flash green rapidly because it think its ejecting
Post by: sammyo on December 29, 2008, 07:40:00 PM
QUOTE(yifan_lu @ Dec 29 2008, 07:32 AM)
Hello, I'm a noob at this, and I think I followed the directions correctly, but can someone tell me if I did it right or what I need to change. Also I want to know if ground is needed? (I didn't bother). Thanks.
Here's what it looks like right now:
(Underneath the tape are the parts soldered together)
P.S: Is there any way to test the device before messing with the 360?
If you're powering from your xbox, You may want to connect the pin5 / E to the ground and also link your pc case and xbox case so both has common ground.
I didn't do the above initially, and I shorted the transistor.
Post by: yifan_lu on December 29, 2008, 08:34:00 PM
QUOTE(sammyo @ Dec 30 2008, 04:16 AM)
If you're powering from your xbox, You may want to connect the pin5 / E to the ground and also link your pc case and xbox case so both has common ground.
I didn't do the above initially, and I shorted the transistor.
Thanks for the reply. Do you mean both pin 5 and e or pin 5 or e. (I'm also assuming pin 5 means the xbox dvd connector?) Also is there any way to know if the transitor is shorted? I'm geting 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 - 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 key, but it could be a number or problems.
Post by: hippodude100 on December 29, 2008, 08:36:00 PM
QUOTE(matt_cooper_1987 @ Dec 30 2008, 02:25 AM)
dont do this! i did it and am out an xbox!
burnt out
lol then you need to practice soldering
haven't had any problem just use small wire.
Post by: sammyo on December 29, 2008, 08:42:00 PM
QUOTE(yifan_lu @ Dec 30 2008, 05:10 AM)
Thanks for the reply. Do you mean both pin 5 and e or pin 5 or e. (I'm also assuming pin 5 means the xbox dvd connector?) Also is there any way to know if the transitor is shorted? I'm geting 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 - 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 key, but it could be a number or problems.
I'm talking about pin 5 of the com port which is same as E of the transistor.
To test the transistor, you need to test in 6 steps. follow this instruction:
http://www.electroni...sistor-test.php
Post by: ORiGiN4L on December 29, 2008, 09:56:00 PM
"A new DosFlash will be released very shortly that will include LiteOn DVDKey extraction and dummy.bin capabilities. Note that firmtool uses dummy.bin to correctly spoof information from dumped key/inquiry/identify into other 1.5 firmwares. At this moment JungleFlasher and DVDKey32 support the dummy.bin feature!"
Does this mean we will soon be able to extract the key via dos/sata, or will we still have to extract it via serial/com?
Could someone clarify that for me.
I don't mind waiting to flash if it will be possible to do the key extraction without buying or making an adapter for the serial/com transmission.
Thanks.
This post has been edited by ORiGiN4L: Dec 30 2008, 05:57 AM
Post by: yifan_lu on December 29, 2008, 10:01:00 PM
Post by: yifan_lu on December 29, 2008, 11:41:00 PM
Post by: vincatzero on December 30, 2008, 05:30:00 AM
First off, any truth to that?
Secondly, because the sata wont always be connected between the drive and my pc, they wont always share a ground. So if the above solution was a good idea i wanted to add a ground. I'm not 100% on where to add the alligator clip that will attach to the 360 case. what wire do i attach it to? do i also have to connect the ground on the molex? how does that attach? they're not in the schematic.
thanks a lot
Post by: gfreeman86 on December 30, 2008, 05:41:00 AM
QUOTE(vincatzero @ Dec 30 2008, 02:06 PM)
Secondly, because the sata wont always be connected between the drive and my pc, they wont always share a ground. So if the above solution was a good idea i wanted to add a ground. I'm not 100% on where to add the alligator clip that will attach to the 360 case. what wire do i attach it to? do i also have to connect the ground on the molex? how does that attach? they're not in the schematic.
thanks a lot
Simply connect the alligator clip from the 360 case to the Ground on the serial port (pin 5 if I remember correct). From the pc's molex you have to take only the 5V, no other ground needed.
Post by: effbee05 on December 30, 2008, 03:11:00 PM
QUOTE(ORiGiN4L @ Dec 30 2008, 12:32 AM)
This was posted at the end of the read-me file from the iX1.5 release.
"A new DosFlash will be released very shortly that will include LiteOn DVDKey extraction and dummy.bin capabilities. Note that firmtool uses dummy.bin to correctly spoof information from dumped key/inquiry/identify into other 1.5 firmwares. At this moment JungleFlasher and DVDKey32 support the dummy.bin feature!"
Does this mean we will soon be able to extract the key via dos/sata, or will we still have to extract it via serial/com?
Could someone clarify that for me.
I don't mind waiting to flash if it will be possible to do the key extraction without buying or making an adapter for the serial/com transmission.
Thanks.
You will still need to read the key via serial, there is no software only method yet.
They just mean you will be able to use DosFlash to read the key and create a hacked firmware with only the one program.
Post by: ORiGiN4L on December 30, 2008, 10:17:00 PM
QUOTE(effbee05 @ Dec 30 2008, 05:47 PM)
You will still need to read the key via serial, there is no software only method yet.
They just mean you will be able to use DosFlash to read the key and create a hacked firmware with only the one program.
Thanks!
Post by: hujang on December 31, 2008, 10:34:00 AM
I am not sure if it is right, so can anyone give me some input on if it is or not?
(I guess I am gonna power the dvd with the xbox?)
Also, the probe goes into the hole by r707 right? And no soldering of any ind on the drive itself?
Thanks in advance.
Post by: plugin on January 01, 2009, 03:21:00 AM
Post by: MODMANMIKE on January 01, 2009, 11:14:00 AM
Post by: matt_cooper_1987 on January 01, 2009, 12:24:00 PM
but i cant see anything from it in windows/dos even realterm wont recognise anything going on
tried pin out manual eject scraped a touch of the glue for better contact on hole
any help/ideas would help me loads its a via sata card, but iv got enquiry and identify already!
Post by: Shippy on January 01, 2009, 07:20:00 PM
Anyways I'm 100% sure I wired everything correctly. Everytime I run Jungleflasher I get the inquiry & identity but the key always invalid (all zeroes). Duriing my approximate 100 tries I'd say around 3-5 times Jungle Flasher would freeze while reading the key and I would have to close the program with an error.
I'm using the 360 to power the drive. I have pin 3 removed from the power cable and the drive 1/2 out.
When I try to test my circuit with hyperterminal, I would press the probe to the 3.3v point on the dvdrom. sometimes it would give a few charactes and others it wouldn't (about 4/5 of the time). When I touched it to the 5v point I would get more consistant characters than when I touched the 3.3v point, but it was still iffy (only about 1/2 the time).
My serial port is set up standard 9600 8n1 no flow control.
I tried Realterm and I get similar results. The Rxd light blinks then BREAk and ERROR show up. Sometiems it will give a constant stream of characters (all the same one) even after I removed the probe.
Does anyone have any ideas why this isn't working?
Post by: FatSean on January 01, 2009, 07:31:00 PM
QUOTE(Shippy @ Jan 2 2009, 03:56 AM)
I've been at this for 2 days now. I bought the npn transistors (15 pack), 1k resistor (5 pack) & 10k resistor (5 Pack) from radio shack. I removed the serial port from an old serial to ps2 adaptor I had. I used a pin from a sewing kit. I re-used some wire I had from previous projects. I also used a pen & hot glue to hold the spear. Everything is solder'd together. I rebuilt the kit 3 times, testing the connections with a multimeter as I go to make sure everything was ok. I tried with long wires and also with the transisitor soldered directly to the serial port. My motherboard uses an Intel ICH5 chipset and has 1 serial port external and connections internally to add another port.
Anyways I'm 100% sure I wired everything correctly. Everytime I run Jungleflasher I get the inquiry & identity but the key always invalid (all zeroes). Duriing my approximate 100 tries I'd say around 3-5 times Jungle Flasher would freeze while reading the key and I would have to close the program with an error.
I'm using the 360 to power the drive. I have pin 3 removed from the power cable and the drive 1/2 out.
When I try to test my circuit with hyperterminal, I would press the probe to the 3.3v point on the dvdrom. sometimes it would give a few charactes and others it wouldn't (about 4/5 of the time). When I touched it to the 5v point I would get more consistant characters than when I touched the 3.3v point, but it was still iffy (only about 1/2 the time).
My serial port is set up standard 9600 8n1 no flow control.
I tried Realterm and I get similar results. The Rxd light blinks then BREAk and ERROR show up. Sometiems it will give a constant stream of characters (all the same one) even after I removed the probe.
Does anyone have any ideas why this isn't working?
Ditch JungleFlasher and Windows. Make a DOS boot disk. I had a lot of trouble, until I gave up trying in Windows.
Also, put pin 3 back in. Boot the comp into DOS with the 360 already powered on. When you get into DOS, just eject the drive with the 360 and push it halfway in, pull the drive's power cable, wait a second and reconnect it. Connect your serial cable and probe. Run dosflash. That's all it took for me, got a good key first shot with that procedure first time trying in DOS... after almost 5hrs messing around in Windows.
Post by: Stoka on January 01, 2009, 07:56:00 PM
Check out these pictures
Now i was thinking of buying this cable
and then cut that cable apart. And rearrange the cables on the 9 pin connector if necessary so that they fit
(Rx, Tx, GND, V+), and then strip the wires on the other side and then directly solder those stripped wires in the appropriate places on the PCB of the Lite-On. Only I would solder the Tx from the 9pin serial to Rx on the PCB and Rx from the serial 9 pin to Tx on the PCB. The power to the drive would be from the 360 itself. And I would solder the R707 connection.
Can it be done that way or can I simply forget that and try something else. And BTW if this is in the wrong topic please put it in the right place.
Post by: Shippy on January 02, 2009, 01:36:00 AM
QUOTE(FatSean @ Jan 2 2009, 03:07 AM)
Ditch JungleFlasher and Windows. Make a DOS boot disk. I had a lot of trouble, until I gave up trying in Windows.
Also, put pin 3 back in. Boot the comp into DOS with the 360 already powered on. When you get into DOS, just eject the drive with the 360 and push it halfway in, pull the drive's power cable, wait a second and reconnect it. Connect your serial cable and probe. Run dosflash. That's all it took for me, got a good key first shot with that procedure first time trying in DOS... after almost 5hrs messing around in Windows.
I had the same problems in DOS as well (about 1/2 attempts were in Windows the other half in DOS).
Post by: FatSean on January 02, 2009, 02:59:00 AM
QUOTE(Shippy @ Jan 2 2009, 10:12 AM)
I had the same problems in DOS as well (about 1/2 attempts were in Windows the other half in DOS).
If you're having the same problems with dosflash.... in that case, I think it's safe to assume the cable is your problem.
Post by: Shippy on January 02, 2009, 03:39:00 PM
QUOTE(FatSean @ Jan 2 2009, 10:35 AM)
If you're having the same problems with dosflash.... in that case, I think it's safe to assume the cable is your problem.
Here's a picture of my cable.
This is the 5th version I made. Luckily I got the 15 pack of transistors from RS. This one is using the 2n2222. I had an old db9-db25 cable that I cut and tested the pinout.
It is still doing the same thing as the first 4 cables I made (the 4th one was solderless). Either through dos or windows I still get a key of all zeroes. It is very frustrating.
Post by: Shippy on January 04, 2009, 01:24:00 PM
Post by: xrkahn76 on January 05, 2009, 04:47:00 AM
All I need to do is pick up some 100K resistors and some molex plugs, and I think I can make a special cable using cat5 that plugs in here and has a probe, ground, and 5V connector. I'll whip one up tomorrow and if all goes well, I will be willing to make a few up for $10 or so, or just sell the serial connectors, and you can easily open it up and solder up your own.
Any thoughts? Interest?
Post by: xrkahn76 on January 05, 2009, 05:18:00 AM
QUOTE(xrkahn76 @ Jan 5 2009, 06:23 AM) 
I have these serial to RJ45 adapters.
All I need to do is pick up some 100K resistors and some molex plugs, and I think I can make a special cable using cat5 that plugs in here and has a probe, ground, and 5V connector. I'll whip one up tomorrow and if all goes well, I will be willing to make a few up for $10 or so, or just sell the serial connectors, and you can easily open it up and solder up your own.
Any thoughts? Interest?
Sorry pic snafu
Post by: xrkahn76 on January 05, 2009, 07:49:00 AM
Post by: xrkahn76 on January 05, 2009, 08:18:00 PM
Now, I am working on the second one. The difference is that where the 5V feed comes in, the 5V feed goes up to the adapter on the Orange cable, and also goes towards the probe on the Blue pair, with the ground, and connects to a red led on the probe, letting you know that power is connected.
I was hoping someone might know how I can set it up so an LED lights up when the connection is made.
Anyways, let me know if you need one of these handy serial adapters.
Post by: strech on January 06, 2009, 05:01:00 PM
1. Why do some people use the Maximus X3232 Chip? I think it's much easyer to do it with the transistor method.
2. In other Topics they connect the two pins of the R707 of the dvd hardware. Why i didn't have to do this?
3. Why you discribe how to power the dvd from the pc? isn't it much easyer to use the connector of the xbox 360?
4.
QUOTE
to get it to work it is important to remove pin 3. I found it is impossible to get the key otherwise.
first eject the drive and unplug the xbox so the drive stays open
first eject the drive and unplug the xbox so the drive stays open
You mean the power cable of the xbox and not the connecter between xbox and dvd, right?
5. Does somebody know if it is possible to use a virtuell com port over tcp/ip? I test it but I got an error message that the key isn't right
THANKS for the great work an the support
Post by: xrkahn76 on January 12, 2009, 06:14:00 AM
It is just the DB9 connector with 3 wires. red to Molex 5v, Green to alligator ground, and white to pen probe.
All the parts again soldered and heat shunk inside the DB9 connector housing.
IF you dont have a serial port on the back, check your motherboard manual!
I was asked the other day to look at a PC and the guy was upset that he might have to buy a serial pci card or a db9/USB adapter. Turns out, the motherboard had a header for a serial port. I looked through my abundance of wires and connectors and found a PCI panel with a serial port and ribbon with a header plug.
These panels can be found online, and you can also make your own adapter if you can't find one. Any 0.100"/2.54mm header plug will work. Same as a USB header or Front panel connector. Check your motherboard manual for the pinout. remember all you need is the RxD or Receive Data and the SG, Signal ground/GND.
I have found with my abundance of parts, especially these connectors, that I can make all kinds of these cables. I am not going to say I am an expert on the creation or full function of the device, but I understand enough to expand and add on to it.
If you are having trouble finding parts, contact me!
I even have gender adapters. If you found a serial plug, and discovered it is male, just like the one on the back of your PC, this adapter will allow you to use it on your project. Need a DB25 25 pin connector? I have those too!
Post by: mwg40 on January 18, 2009, 01:13:00 AM
Thanks yaywoop
Post by: polly_sacharride on January 18, 2009, 10:01:00 PM
Post by: d05register on January 19, 2009, 08:56:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on January 28, 2009, 05:40:00 AM
QUOTE(d05register @ Jan 20 2009, 03:32 AM)
yaywoop could you explain why I need to invert the signal?
because we are converting TTL level signaling to RS232 level signaling.
TTL uses 3.3V as logic 1 and 0V as logic 0
RS232 uses -3.3V as logic 1 and +3.3V as logic 0
by the way rs232 will usually cope with 0V as logic 1...
QUOTE(polly_sacharride @ Jan 19 2009, 04:37 PM)
Would it be possible to power this circuit via the serial port itself? Possibly by using pins 4 & 7 (DTR & RTS), using a resistor if necessary to drop the voltage.
I don't think so.. they seem to have negative voltages most of the time. maybe if they are programmed to be +12V while you are running the program you could have a resistor, zener diode and capacitor to regulate it to 5V
Post by: TheDemonIII on January 28, 2009, 06:00:00 PM
http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=circuitkm6.gif
From what i see from the diagrams, its that simple. Is that right? Does anything need to be grounded? Thanks!
Post by: yaywoop on January 28, 2009, 07:48:00 PM
QUOTE(TheDemonIII @ Jan 29 2009, 12:36 PM)
so im thinking about rebuilding the circuit because the last time i made it, it didnt work. Before i do it can someone tell me if i have the whole thing set up correctly. I plan on powering the dvd drive from the xbox itself (removing pin 3)
http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=circuitkm6.gif
From what i see from the diagrams, its that simple. Is that right? Does anything need to be grounded? Thanks!
well the circuit is grounded through the serial port, and the dvd drive/xbox will be grounded through the SATA wire when its plugged in to the pc. however if you get some strange results when you dump the key (different keys each time you try) ground the dvd drive to the pc case just using crocodile clips between the cases, or have the cases in electrical contact.
so yeah it is that simple!
Post by: TheDemonIII on January 28, 2009, 08:12:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Jan 28 2009, 10:24 PM)
well the circuit is grounded through the serial port, and the dvd drive/xbox will be grounded through the SATA wire when its plugged in to the pc. however if you get some strange results when you dump the key (different keys each time you try) ground the dvd drive to the pc case just using crocodile clips between the cases, or have the cases in electrical contact.
so yeah it is that simple!
when u say ground the dvd drive to the case, u mean just clip the case of the dvd drive to my comp case? or clip the ground pin on the dvd drive to the comp case?
Post by: yaywoop on January 29, 2009, 03:19:00 AM
QUOTE(TheDemonIII @ Jan 29 2009, 02:48 PM)
when u say ground the dvd drive to the case, u mean just clip the case of the dvd drive to my comp case? or clip the ground pin on the dvd drive to the comp case?
if you are using the 360 to power the drive, and are worried about grounding through the sata cable, connect the 360 metal case to the pc case.
the dvd case may not be grounded if its not properly seated in the xbox
Post by: jjpeerless on February 06, 2009, 06:47:00 PM
thanks
Post by: fascistsirion on February 08, 2009, 04:06:00 PM
I'm a bit confused. Have pretty much everything ready:
1. bought resistors from radioshack, 10k, 1k.
2. NPN transistor from radioshack
3. Ordered: eSata SATA IDE PCI Card VIA VT6421A off of ebay
Now I'm confused about the serial connection. My computer has a serial port on it (female). I can pull a female serial plug from an old modem to connect to the circuit. But now do I need a seperate cable to connect the two female serial connections? Can I just connect the circuit to a male serial plug and plug it directly in the back of my computer?
sorry if my terminology is off... not used to working with circuits.
Post by: jp35 on February 08, 2009, 04:15:00 PM
QUOTE(fascistsirion @ Feb 8 2009, 07:42 PM)
Hi all.
Now I'm confused about the serial connection. My computer has a serial port on it (female).
a serial port has sticks coming out not holes so its male
Post by: fascistsirion on February 08, 2009, 04:20:00 PM
So say I tear apart an old internal modem for the serial plug as is suggested in this guide:
http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=flashyourliteonf
I can plug this directly into port located on the back of my desktop computer?
Post by: jp35 on February 08, 2009, 04:57:00 PM
QUOTE(fascistsirion @ Feb 8 2009, 07:56 PM)
Thx for the quick reply.
So say I tear apart an old internal modem for the serial plug as is suggested in this guide:
http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=flashyourliteonf
I can plug this directly into port located on the back of my desktop computer?
yes the connector you need is a db9 serial connector like the one in the pic
Post by: Errisper on February 11, 2009, 03:52:00 PM
Post by: jp35 on February 11, 2009, 04:24:00 PM
QUOTE(Errisper @ Feb 11 2009, 04:28 PM)
If I take out pin 3 on the power cable will I be able to put it back?
you don't have to risk that just simply eject the drive while powered on - then power off push the drive in half way to 3/4 then power on again
Post by: Errisper on February 11, 2009, 06:24:00 PM
Post by: wadodem on February 11, 2009, 07:43:00 PM
1. It would be worth adding some troubleshooting steps that people could do if they have a voltmeter: touching the probe to +5V and checking that the output across the serial port pins 2-5 is 0V, and vice versa. This would quickly sort out idiots like me who used a PNP transistor.
2. I found that I had to have a wired ground from the PC power supply across the probe circuit, and a wired ground clip from the circuit to the xbox ground, for the probe to work. Without this I got "invalid serial data" from JungleFlasher and DVDKey32. I used fairly long cables on the probe and the serial cable so it may have been picking up some noise. The serial port signal ground is not connected to the PC ground.
3. For Via SATA users it would be worth putting in the link to the advice to remove drivers and manually install portio if you are getting lockups: http://forums.xbox-scene.com/lofiversion/index.php/t672341.html as this was also a problem that I had that messed up the flashing process.
Thanks again.
Post by: jp35 on February 11, 2009, 09:06:00 PM
QUOTE(Errisper @ Feb 11 2009, 07:00 PM)
I have another question, how do you get the bottom panel off? I unscrewed the four screws but can't figure it out.
this isn't the section for that you have to do some reading in the hardware section you will get your answer there
Post by: [email protected] on February 15, 2009, 07:48:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on February 17, 2009, 09:10:00 AM
QUOTE([email protected] @ Feb 16 2009, 02:24 PM)
hi i am a newbie, i have salvaged a transistor and it says KTN 2222a 504 on the front is this the transistor i should be using? if it is does anyone no the pin layout for it?
read the first post.
or use google to find a datasheet for it. no one is going to google stuff for you!
Post by: Kurtz on February 18, 2009, 06:45:00 AM
But I can't get the key in the first place. I'll go step by step through what I did, after reading various tutorials.
1. Connect dvd to SATA and power from Xbox
2. Power on PC, boot, power on xbox
3. Open DVD drive using switch on Xbox motherboard, on the front where the tray's eject button would work.
4. Take out power cable from xbox to dvd, push drive in about halfway, plug power back in
5. Open Jungleflasher/Xtractor, found the dvd drive, insert probe into R707
Now when I select get key or whichever, I get an error for a bad serial. Now, I get the same error if I do nothing and just press get key without inserting the probe, so I think there was a problem with the probe but I was using a safety pin and that should be thin enough to get into that hole.
What am I doing wrong?
Included pics of device:
Post by: 2gunsup on February 24, 2009, 09:05:00 PM
QUOTE(Kurtz @ Feb 18 2009, 09:21 AM)
The resistors all have the gold band furthest from the transistor, that is correct right?
Does it really matter which way you place the resistors?
QUOTE(yifan_lu @ Dec 30 2008, 12:37 AM)
How to I test the device? Can I use HyperTerm, if so, what bitrate should I use and what result should I get. also what is the bios settings for the COM port to get this to work? Thanks.
I'd like to know the same thing. Via Hyperterminal and with a Multimeter... I did a continuity test from the base pin of the transistor to the probe I'm using which is a needle and didn't get a reading... Is this normal and is it because of the 10k resistor in between?
Post by: jp35 on February 24, 2009, 11:12:00 PM
QUOTE(2gunsup @ Feb 24 2009, 09:41 PM)
Does it really matter which way you place the resistors?
no it doesn't matter
Post by: Norco on February 25, 2009, 01:02:00 AM
I'm using the 2N2222 transistor, 1k & 10k resistors, etc. I think I've got it built correctly, I'm checked it a million times, so I got out my handy multimeter and these are the readings I'm getting:
--With 5V supplied from PC I get ~5V reading at the end of my serial cable when probe touches nothing.
--If I connect the probe to the 707 point, I get a reading of 4.87 at the end of the serial cable.
--If I check the voltage right off the 707 point, I'm getting a read of 3.3V. So the 4.87 reading I'm getting (from the previous step) is the new voltage after the voltage is sent through the 10k resistor.
Is something off with my probe? Are those correct numbers? I'm assuming my transistor is working correctly since the same voltage is sent on through the data cable. I've been struggling with this for several days, so if you've got an idea I'm all ears, thanks!
Post by: Norco on February 25, 2009, 04:31:00 AM
Post by: 2gunsup on February 25, 2009, 10:35:00 AM
QUOTE(Norco @ Feb 25 2009, 07:07 AM)
Just to follow up I got everything working. I discovered with the multimeter that when I touched the positive to the base and the leg that goes to the ground that there was no connection. I must have killed part of the transistor while I was soldering it, so once I carefully replaced it everything worked like a charm. If only I would have known all this right off the bat! Best of luck to everyone else.
Do you get a signal with the multimeter from Base pin of transistor to probe? This doing a continuity test.. Wondering if its normal not to get a signal because of the 10k resistor.. Thanks
Post by: 2gunsup on February 25, 2009, 04:36:00 PM
There's my creation, I'm pretty sure I've done everything right =\ I tested it in hyperterminal, croc clip grounded to pc case, 5v in molex adapter, and stuck and scratched another 5v from another adapter and got no characters...
Post by: Questi4110 on February 26, 2009, 10:36:00 AM
I built the circuit and tested it out before actually connecting it to my computer.
I used a multimeter and put the ground onto the ground and then the other end of the multimeter to the 5V supply wire (it isn't connected to the serial port yet) that I have. I am receiving 5V power from the dvd drive (soldered to that point on the dvd drive). When I tested it, it came out to be 10.2 V.
So I decided to directly test the points on the DVD drive and found that the same 5V point (I triple checked the location) also showed up as 10.2 V on the multimeter. In fact, every power supply point on the DVD drive was showing up as double the voltage.
What could the problem be?
I checked my multimeter with another source and it showed up to be fine. I also tried another multimeter and it was giving the same readings.
Please help
THANKS
Post by: Norco on February 26, 2009, 03:02:00 PM
QUOTE(2gunsup @ Feb 26 2009, 01:12 AM)
http://img528.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img12371.jpg
There's my creation, I'm pretty sure I've done everything right =\ I tested it in hyperterminal, croc clip grounded to pc case, 5v in molex adapter, and stuck and scratched another 5v from another adapter and got no characters...
What happens if you tap a grounding point with your probe? Anything?
Post by: 2gunsup on February 26, 2009, 05:42:00 PM
QUOTE(Norco @ Feb 26 2009, 05:38 PM)
What happens if you tap a grounding point with your probe? Anything?
I fixed it. When looking at the diagram in the OP i was thinking it was the connecting side and not the pin side hence I soldered pins 2 and 5 as if they were on male DB9 connector. I flashed the liteon =). I'm about to make version 2 of my key extractor on a PCB board.
BIG THANKS to yaywoop.
Post by: 2gunsup on February 27, 2009, 06:52:00 AM
http://img188.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=39037_IMG_1255_122_806lo.JPG
Post by: strawsy on February 27, 2009, 02:13:00 PM
Post by: 2gunsup on February 27, 2009, 02:53:00 PM
QUOTE(strawsy @ Feb 27 2009, 04:49 PM)
Can someone have a look at my post here and maybe answer my question? http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?s=&showtopic=668247&view=findpost&p=4440525
It seems like its just a connector he decided to use for the ground, 5v, and probe.. It isn't needed.
Post by: red_ring_of_box on March 01, 2009, 04:14:00 PM
Here is the pinout I found if anyone finds any use to it:
http://francis.courtois.free.fr/jc1/serial/Basics/DB9.html
Here is my setup, I don't understand what was meant by the optional ground clip with the aligator clip or connecting the xbox/dvd drive to my pc case.
And will this serial port card be good?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F7RQVO/sr=8-1/qid=1235872920/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1235872920&sr=8-1&seller=
Post by: strawsy on March 01, 2009, 05:17:00 PM
QUOTE(2gunsup @ Feb 27 2009, 05:29 PM)
It seems like its just a connector he decided to use for the ground, 5v, and probe.. It isn't needed.
Ok that's what I thought, thanks.
Post by: Questi4110 on March 05, 2009, 01:11:00 PM
I successfully dumped my fw and flashed it using this method (jungleflasher showed that the drive had ixtreme 1.5 on it after I flashed).
When I plugged in the drive and turned the xbox on to see if it worked, everything was working fine. At this point, the drive ejected and closed properly. I did this with the 5V power supply to the circuit still connected to the drive (I soldered the 5V supply to the circuit to the 5V point on the bottom of the DVD drive) and with the dvd drive cover off.
So I decided to remove the 5V supply to the circuit and put the cover on so that I could put the xbox back together. I removed the 5V supply by simpling pulling it off gently (it was soldered onto the 5V point) and then put the dvd drive cover on.
BUT NOW, the drive does not eject when I press eject. The xbox dashboard states that the drive is opening and closing but nothing physically happens and I don't even hear the drive trying to move. Also, the main light indicator on the front of the xbox360 flashes once in the middle (green flash in the middle) everytime I press eject.
I have double checked the connections and cannot find what is wrong. I have also checked that the drive is receiving power using a multimeter and testing the two 12V points, the 5V point, and the 3.3V point.
When I flashed the drive, I removed pin3 in order for the drive to stay half open. However, I put it back in place and it seems to be in place whenever I have tried to eject the drive.
What could be the problem?? Please help.
THANKS
Post by: GamerBR on March 05, 2009, 03:31:00 PM
I've seen the tutorial and it does not mention bridging or removing R707(I don't know how the drive is yet,the 360 is arriving by the weekend),and I've seen some people saying that something like should be done on it.Is bridging/removing/whatever necessary?
Also I've seen you recomending not using big transistors,what is wrong with them?I think they just able to deal with more current,just like a big resistor compared to a small one of the same resistance
.The one I got is this one http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/88110/FUJI/2SC3320.html
Post by: Questi4110 on March 05, 2009, 06:13:00 PM
QUOTE(Questi4110 @ Feb 26 2009, 01:12 PM)
Hi guys, I'm trying this out for the first time and seem to be having some problems.
I built the circuit and tested it out before actually connecting it to my computer.
I used a multimeter and put the ground onto the ground and then the other end of the multimeter to the 5V supply wire (it isn't connected to the serial port yet) that I have. I am receiving 5V power from the dvd drive (soldered to that point on the dvd drive). When I tested it, it came out to be 10.2 V.
So I decided to directly test the points on the DVD drive and found that the same 5V point (I triple checked the location) also showed up as 10.2 V on the multimeter. In fact, every power supply point on the DVD drive was showing up as double the voltage.
What could the problem be?
I checked my multimeter with another source and it showed up to be fine. I also tried another multimeter and it was giving the same readings.
Please help
THANKS
I FIXED THE PROBLEM
Apparently, the solder from the 5V point came off on the dvd drive so I had to re-flow it back on from the prong onto the motherboard.
Post by: trshunt on March 06, 2009, 01:50:00 AM
Used this tool to get my liteon running like a charm.
Post by: GamerBR on March 07, 2009, 01:38:00 PM
QUOTE(GamerBR @ Mar 5 2009, 08:07 PM) 
A few questions
I've seen the tutorial and it does not mention bridging or removing R707(I don't know how the drive is yet,the 360 is arriving by the weekend),and I've seen some people saying that something like should be done on it.Is bridging/removing/whatever necessary?
Also I've seen you recomending not using big transistors,what is wrong with them?I think they just able to deal with more current,just like a big resistor compared to a small one of the same resistance (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) .The one I got is this one http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/...JI/2SC3320.html
bump (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Post by: craz3d on March 08, 2009, 04:54:00 AM
And to the above poster, if you use a probe, you do not need to short R707.
This post has been edited by craz3d: Mar 8 2009, 12:09 PM
Post by: Kurtz on March 08, 2009, 08:19:00 PM
Here is exactly what I do:
Using a DIY Gadget device, I power the drive. I have it hooked up to Molex, press eject, turn the drive off, push the tray about halfway in, plug in the power, and probe R707. Bad serial everytime, in windows and dos.
But with a multimeter, the transistor is tested working, I get 3v on the serial, pins 2 and 5, and 0 when I put the probe in R707. When I bridge pins 2 and 3 on the serial, tx and rx, I get a positive loopback test in hyperterm. Jungle flash and xtractor recognize my drive.
But no matter what I do, it never works. I tried everything, all of the different methods people have had success with, but nothing. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? I feel like I've tried everything. Pulled pin 3, nothing.
Post by: craz3d on March 09, 2009, 05:17:00 PM
QUOTE(Kurtz @ Mar 8 2009, 09:55 PM)
I have to ask for help again. I'm doing everything right, but its not working.
...
Post by: strawsy on March 10, 2009, 12:01:00 AM
This post has been edited by strawsy: Mar 10 2009, 07:02 AM
Post by: strawsy on March 10, 2009, 02:09:00 AM
Post by: icustom on March 10, 2009, 09:53:00 AM
NPN Transistors: Model: 2N2222
1K Resistor: Model: 271-1321
10K Resistor: Model: 271-1335
DB9 Connector: 9-Position Female Solder D-Sub Connector
These are the things I am buying, a long with a 15WAT soldering iron.
Am I set to make my kit. Also I have a spare Dell which has like 3 molex do I cut the Molex from the PSU with some wires attached? Or do I completely cut the Molex off.
How long should the wires be on the Molex?
Post by: strawsy on March 10, 2009, 12:06:00 PM
Post by: icustom on March 10, 2009, 01:35:00 PM
(Well my friend got everything, but I gave him the cash)
So I am a new noob to soldering. So please give me a brief noobs tut.
Should I Just strip random wires and solder them together to make this kit, or do I need special wires ha?
The iron I got was 15WAT.
Post by: cvas828 on March 12, 2009, 09:12:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 25 2008, 11:49 AM)
yes a usb => rs232 adapter will work.
and most motherboards will have internal headers for serial even if they don't have any on the back. see the motherboard manual.
Quick question.
My mobo has an internal serial header that is used to power some LED's and I think the power and restet button. Will this work in place of an external header.
Thank you
Post by: xrkahn76 on March 16, 2009, 04:21:00 AM
QUOTE(cvas828 @ Mar 12 2009, 09:12 PM)
Quick question.
My mobo has an internal serial header that is used to power some LED's and I think the power and restet button. Will this work in place of an external header.
Thank you
That sounds more like the front panel header, not a serial header. Check the manual for something labeled a COM port, sometimes A, B, others 1, 2. If there isnt one on the back, it will most likely be just COM or COM1/A
Post by: xb2000 on March 16, 2009, 09:50:00 AM
My PC kept crashing whenever I switched on the tool; and I concluded that it was drawing too much power (i have 4 HDD running in my PC). I diconnect a few drives and got it working after 4 hours of cursing.
Jungle flash scared the hell out of me. I extracted the keys, then went onto the next stage and it crashed. Luckily it allowed me to flash after a reboot.
I'm more confident that the next flash will be a breeze.
Thanks!!! +Rep!
Post by: marcelorider on March 16, 2009, 03:27:00 PM
ive recheck all connection changed NPN by an C33740
really dunno what is the problem
sata is working cuz identify the Drive...
in maximus xtractor it says that i need to check connection and try to reset drive
i allways do that dunno if im making something wrong but it won't extract Key...
the ident and the other extract like charm
i wait for you'r comments
Post by: cvas828 on March 16, 2009, 06:29:00 PM
I am a bit confused on how to ground the xbox console. I am going to be power the drive form the xbox, and i can not figure out where the alligator clip wire is soldered too. Or can i just have the computer and xbox touching each other. I just need a little more clarification. I got output from hyperterm this is the only problem i have run into.
Thank you,
cvas
Post by: marcelorider on March 17, 2009, 02:06:00 PM
ive realised that have pins changed on NPN =)
ive chanded it tested on realterm and its has working on there soo
ive done the things that u guys say drive half open and voila =)
get key 7 times correct and allways same rebooted Pc and Xbox in tries and afterwords flashed it
ive praid a bit for GOD to this thing work and
Im more one with good results (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
thx yaywoop you'r GOD (IMG:style_emoticons/default/muhaha.gif)
This post has been edited by marcelorider: Mar 17 2009, 09:06 PM
Post by: GreenfieldToys on March 19, 2009, 09:13:00 PM
You saved my ass!
It helps i live in an old computer shop and horde parts like crazy, but this was the best solution for me. It only took me a couple hours after finding your thread to scavenge the parts and put it together. JF picked it up first time, every time. Reading/Flashing was smooth like butta'.
I got the transistor from a junked xbox v1.0/1.1 foxlink psu, the letter id was different, i forget now, but it was like "kfd2222", i wired it like your diagram for 'pn2222" and all was goood.
resistors came from a huge pile of scavenged resistors, so i can't say where they originated.
I had an ample supply of connectors and such so it came out very pretty imo.
This was my first lite-on and i thought i was gonna look like a noob to a customer (and his friends/potential customers) cause i had to tell him to wait a week while i order a 3232 adapter, i was so happy to find your solution, beautiful work my friend!
Post by: kulTURGUeTer on March 24, 2009, 03:28:00 PM
But I am grateful and would like to express this.
YAYWOOP!! I hope you agree with that!!
My first upload at all.
But surely unattainable for YouTube conditions:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkh3nbizA2E
Post by: xfile102 on March 24, 2009, 04:30:00 PM
QUOTE(Kurtz @ Mar 8 2009, 10:55 PM)
I have to ask for help again. I'm doing everything right, but its not working.
Here is exactly what I do:
Using a DIY Gadget device, I power the drive. I have it hooked up to Molex, press eject, turn the drive off, push the tray about halfway in, plug in the power, and probe R707. Bad serial everytime, in windows and dos.
But with a multimeter, the transistor is tested working, I get 3v on the serial, pins 2 and 5, and 0 when I put the probe in R707. When I bridge pins 2 and 3 on the serial, tx and rx, I get a positive loopback test in hyperterm. Jungle flash and xtractor recognize my drive.
But no matter what I do, it never works. I tried everything, all of the different methods people have had success with, but nothing. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? I feel like I've tried everything. Pulled pin 3, nothing.
Kurtz,
Man, I am having the EXACT same issue. "Bad Serial Data" And so far no one knows how to address it. If you get a solid answer, PM me and let me know man. I have flashed a few dozen Baq's which were a breeze. A BREEZE. But these Liteon's are the bane of my existence. Killing me. I just cannot get the Key to dump. And from reading the other posts on here, there sre still more potential hurldles to come after that, with power rail checking, erasing nightmares and lock ups, and tons of people complaining of bricking. Sounds so foreboding. Let me know though, if you get it to work.
Post by: sthetix on March 24, 2009, 07:16:00 PM
Post by: xrkahn76 on March 25, 2009, 12:21:00 AM
QUOTE(sthetix @ Mar 24 2009, 07:52 PM)
I wonder if somebody has a homemade Connectivity Kit V3 Pro Schematic. Lite-On dump/flasher with On/Off Switch and DVD drive ejector.All in one PCB board.
I made one with a DIY kit, threw a USB, Audio Plug board from the front of a pc, threw it in a project box from Radio shack with an on off switch. The Audio Ports serve as plug for my probe and a ground line if needed.
Will post pictures here soon.
Post by: zoltrix2590 on March 27, 2009, 12:12:00 AM
QUOTE(xrkahn76 @ Mar 25 2009, 02:57 AM)
I made one with a DIY kit, threw a USB, Audio Plug board from the front of a pc, threw it in a project box from Radio shack with an on off switch. The Audio Ports serve as plug for my probe and a ground line if needed.
Will post pictures here soon.
I have no idea what you were trying to explain there, but i'm waiting on the pictures!
Post by: chrislive on April 07, 2009, 06:17:00 PM
http://www.amazon.co...i...5677&sr=8-7
would i need any usb drivers or anything?
Post by: ghettoc401 on April 08, 2009, 10:38:00 PM
I was able to buy all the needed parts at RadioShack and I used a sewing needs for the probe. The device works just as well as the real thing
Post by: Carl1987 on April 10, 2009, 01:24:00 PM
Post by: r1tony on April 14, 2009, 12:00:00 AM
I was getting "Bad Serial Data" for a couple hours as I rebuilt my serial reader, made sure it was all good, replaced transistor etc.. I found out I had the pin-outs wrong on the serial end (so people check those). When that was fixed jungleflasher found it first time, awesome.
Thanks a million well at least 50 bucks that I would spent on a reader and probe..
Post by: jvoldarski on April 21, 2009, 06:42:00 PM
Post by: Bushwick2002 on April 26, 2009, 02:30:00 PM
I manage to flash 2 other lite on drives successfully. This 3rd one is giving me problem. I have 2 PC not detecting the drive, everytime I run L-O-ERAS.EXE to erase it, it returns with a status of 0X80. I just wanna make sure it has nothing to do with the DIY key tool.
Thanks.
Post by: No0B on July 01, 2009, 12:46:00 AM
Aight i bought a CA-42 yesterday. It has only 4 cables, blue, white, green, orange. The orange one is useless cos it's not connected to the PCB at all. It's hard to say which one is which cos there are no number coding given, but for the blue one is connected to the other side of the PCB and has TXD written right above it. The problem is the RXD one, so I wanted to ask if anyone could gimme instructions on how to do a loopback test using hyperterminal or realterm or both if u can so i can make sure it's the right one. I've done it with teraterm by using the blue and the green wire cos i kinda thought it was the RXD, I went to setup and then terminal, and ticked the Local Echo box. Then it repeated whatever i typed like "aabbccDDFF", not sure if i was meant to tick the local echo tho, really dunno about those stuff. So again if someone could gimme the instructions, i'd really appreciate it.
Wait I found this one just now, if this one is correct, the blue one that i thought was the TXD and has TXD written right above it, seems to be the RX lol, and the one i thought is the RX is the TX one. So can someone please help me out, thx.
Post by: No0B on July 01, 2009, 01:14:00 AM
Post by: haniball on July 01, 2009, 09:33:00 AM
i really just bought my xbox because this seemed so easy but i have this big problem...
i made this tool but when i put the cable into the molex where the red cable comes from(5V) it makes a small lightning and pc turns off and you can't turn it on for about 10min.
what i wasn't quite sure when i built the tool was: what is a npn transistor. could anyone please tell me if this one is okay:
---------
|BC33.|
|7-25..|
|M 020|
--------
../.|..\
/...|... \
i could also do some pictures of the tool if you guys need them but please help me, it was quite a lot of work to bring up all those parts...
This post has been edited by haniball: Jul 1 2009, 04:39 PM
Post by: haniball on July 01, 2009, 12:13:00 PM
http://www.datasheet...child/BC337.pdf
Post by: haniball on July 01, 2009, 04:45:00 PM
Post by: No0B on July 02, 2009, 05:50:00 PM
Post by: haniball on July 03, 2009, 05:27:00 AM
i miss the old days like playstation 1 where you just needed to swap the disc in the right moment or dreamcast that just didn't care...
-i'll keep this thread up to date...
Post by: yaywoop on July 28, 2009, 04:36:00 PM
Post by: fastcar on August 06, 2009, 03:22:00 PM
cud anybody please tell me where to connect the ground cable of the probe adapter if i connect both pc and xbox together with a cable??
Post by: jones22 on August 06, 2009, 03:36:00 PM
Post by: edy_boy on August 09, 2009, 04:28:00 AM
the latest versions are convenient for this job? (for example ixtreme_1.6 instead of ixtreme_1.5, dosflash v1.8, ...),
I cannot find a link only for flashing in DOS, wich seems to be more stable.
In your tutorial
http://xbox-experts....lashyourliteonf I did not understand the part with
- enter "LITEON K" to read the drive key
- type the names of inquiry.bin, identify.bin, key.bin and dummy.bin output files
Wich file (my modified firmware) will be writed finally?
Thanks a lot!
Regards
Post by: PornOH on August 09, 2009, 04:48:00 AM
QUOTE(edy_boy @ Aug 9 2009, 03:28 AM)
Hi! Yaywoop please post all the tools (software) that is necessary for flashing (key dumping, making firmware, flashing...) in dos, what do each, by steps,
the latest versions are convenient for this job? (for example ixtreme_1.6 instead of ixtreme_1.5, dosflash v1.8, ...),
I cannot find a link only for flashing in DOS, wich seems to be more stable.
In your tutorial
http://xbox-experts....lashyourliteonf I did not understand the part with
- enter "LITEON K" to read the drive key
- type the names of inquiry.bin, identify.bin, key.bin and dummy.bin output files
Wich file (my modified firmware) will be writed finally?
Thanks a lot!
Regards
Here's a thought - use JungleFlasher.
Post by: edy_boy on August 21, 2009, 01:50:00 PM
I tried JungleFlasher 0.1.55 beta , but it didn't recognized my LiteOn drive
It find 4 I/O ports, COM port, but under DVDKey 32/ Drive properties/Vendor: NO drive detected
My mobo is asus p5ql (6 sata ports) and I connected the drive on my sata port 3 (without that VIA card, and proper portio drivers)
I must use only VIA VT6421 raid controller? or should work with my mobo sata ports?
I had build xtractor and it responsed in hyperterminal
Thanks!
Post by: djroughhouse on September 02, 2009, 09:30:00 AM
Post by: SilentBob1638 on September 07, 2009, 07:46:00 PM
http://forums.xbox-s...&...t&p=4429206
Post by: SilentBob1638 on September 09, 2009, 04:32:00 PM
Post by: andelrd on September 10, 2009, 03:45:00 PM
and it worked.
Post by: Denton on October 29, 2009, 08:34:00 PM
I'm not an expert, but I've got some soldering experience under my belt, and I'm confident it's not my soldering skills that are at fault. I'm powering the drive through the xbox, 5v from the computer molex (I tested it and it is 5v) and I've grounded the xbox and computer chassis together. I used all new components from radioshack. I've also tested multiple probe heads to make sure I could probe the tiny hole correctly.
I
Any ideas?
Post by: FlashKick on November 07, 2009, 11:43:00 AM
Also, when powering from the 360 for the drive, remove the ground pin (pin9), or the eject/close pin (pin3)?
thanks a lot!
Post by: XyBeRz on November 11, 2010, 02:48:00 AM
I've solder lots of things before but just don't have a soldering iron anymore due to a move and having my stuff back in Cali.
Anyway as I first read in the beginning and correct me if I'm wrong, instead of doing this project on a serial plug, you can do it on a USB plug?
I have a newer laptop with no desktop so I don't have access to a serial port. Or can I just buy a serial to USB adapter at Radio Shack?
If so where's the tutorial to do this with a USB port?
I've read though the first handful of pages and got tired of reading every post. Just wanted to see if someone could just point me in the right direction please. I can read and follow the instructions afterward.
Thanks!
Post by: nu1mlock on November 11, 2010, 03:18:00 AM
Post by: XyBeRz on November 11, 2010, 05:46:00 PM
QUOTE(nu1mlock @ Nov 11 2010, 12:18 AM)
Wouldn't it be easier to use something that's a bit newer than two years old?
Such as?
Post by: iateshaggy on November 11, 2010, 08:16:00 PM
Post by: XyBeRz on November 21, 2010, 03:38:00 AM
QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Nov 11 2010, 05:16 PM)
mra. if i had the choice of this or that, i would mra every day. only needs a resistor and a scrap of wire.
Sorry, I'm a noob and don't know what your ancroynm stands for or what it is. I love the idea of being easier and using a resistor and wire scrap sounds great.
Could you please point me in the right direction???
Post by: XyBeRz on November 21, 2010, 04:42:00 AM
I'm pretty sure I'd save a good amount if I could do it myself. Now if there's really no option then of course I'll buy what ever is already premade out there to do it.
Please, just looking to get pointed to the right direction with hopefully links.
Post by: luistmw on November 24, 2010, 10:32:00 PM
QUOTE(XyBeRz @ Nov 21 2010, 07:42 AM)
Basically I want to upgrade the firmware without having to buy the xecuter or anything else. I can solder, I have a soldering iron and can easily go to Radio Shack to buy the parts to do the stuff needed to do the upgrade.
I'm pretty sure I'd save a good amount if I could do it myself. Now if there's really no option then of course I'll buy what ever is already premade out there to do it.
Please, just looking to get pointed to the right direction with hopefully links.
Check out this pdf.
http://hotfile.com/d...t1.3.8.pdf.html
its the jungleflasher tut
Post by: anktho3 on December 13, 2010, 01:09:00 PM
I looked at the diagram for the probe and it has an Rx, Ground, and 5v lines. So does this so I imagine it would work.
Here's an image of what it kinda looks like:
Post by: totoz on December 13, 2010, 02:33:00 PM
if 93450 take a look in my sig (or boxxdr method)
Post by: Buzzcut on December 14, 2010, 01:28:00 AM
QUOTE(anktho3 @ Dec 14 2010, 01:18 AM)
I finally noticed the FW number and yea it's 93450c
No, you'll need to boxxdr/MRA
Post by: Avinitlarge on March 23, 2011, 07:37:00 PM
Post by: haroguy1989 on November 25, 2011, 04:13:00 AM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 25 2008, 07:30 PM)
Or you can get the 5V from the drive itself ..., works fine to
...i've been tryin to figure out how for days, please help out