Post by: yaywoop on November 29, 2008, 11:03:00 AM
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=671025
And the Pictorial construction guide:
http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=assemblingaliteo
However, the >1000 posts in this thread contain a lot of help so by all means read on.
All that is required for dumping a liteon key is a transistor and two resistors. which can both be found in old hardware. Computer monitors, VCR's, TV's and radio's are treasure troves of resistors capacitors and signal transistors.
So if you are handy with a soldering iron, why buy an xecuter kit or max232 board that you are only going to use once or twice?
for me at lest it was easier to make one than order online and wait.
The circuit is pretty simple, its a common emitter amplifier which inverts the signal and amplifies it to 5V.
its not strictly rs232 levels, but most serial ports probably won't mind. mine doesn't
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/sch-1.jpg)
Only the transmitting part is needed, the computer only receives the key over rs232, it doesn't transmit anything
So start off by finding an NPN transistor. practically any signal NPN will do.
hopefully the base collector and emitter will be marked on the pcb where you find the transistor (with B C E or something).
To desolder it heat two pins at a time with your soldering iron and wiggle it free, have some fresh solder on the iron to help melt the solder. try not to heat the transistor for too long, they are easily damaged by heat.
To test if the transistor is an npn, get a ohm meter (or battery resistor and led) put the positive lead on the base, if its an NPN you should get a reading when you put the negative lead on the collector and emitter.
if you don't know which pin is the base. just try each pin until the other two pins have a reading.
The 10K resistor will be marked brown black orange (gold)
The 1k resistor will be marked brown black red (gold)
You can always test with a multimeter after you desolder it if you are unsure.
Some desoldered components:
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/components.jpg)
Now put it together! I just did it freeform (without a PCB)
a serial plug could be salvaged from an old modem. or cut up a serial cable
You should have 3 wires (gnd, 5V and Tx) going to the dvd drive and two wires (gnd pin 5 and Rx pin 2) going to the serial port
it should look something like this (sorry about the blurry pic)
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/adapter.jpg)
Now you also need power to the drive. I made an adapter which plugs into a spare sata power plug, and has a switch to open/close the drive. but you can also just use the Xbox 360 to power it. but you can also just use the Xbox 360 to power it. you might need to disconnect pin 3 (eject) to get the tray to stay partially open (Pinout link the ? pin on that page is 3.3V)
overall my setup looks like this:
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/overall.jpg)
I got the dvd power plug from a printer (cut down to fit) and made the SATA power adapter from a piece of PCB filed down to fit and with tracks cut for 12v, 5v, gnd and 3.3v. careful if you don't do it right it could damage your computer power supply or dvd drive.
To get it working I used the dos version of dvdkey, but anything else would probably work.
1 eject the drive and push the tray in half way. leave pin 9 open so the tray doesn't close
2 plug in power and sata
3 turn pc on and boot into dos
4 run dosflash to get the sata address of the dvd drive (say no to any prompts and ctrl+c when you have the address)
5 plug in the serial to the drive and pc. then run: dvdkey address
Hopefully that will work. If it doesn't, check your connections, reboot and try again. you can also try unplugging sata until dos has booted.
You can try probing your circuit with a multimeter, disconnect from pc and dvd power the circuit with 5v, the output should be 5V when the input Tx is pulled low, and 0V when the input Tx is 3V.
Now all you have to do is get another drive and spoof it to replace the liteon.
Of course you can also buy all the parts mentioned, but that would ruin the fun of being able to hack the latest and greatest versions of the 360 absolutely free.
Enjoy.
This post has been edited by Chancer: Aug 3 2009, 11:05 PM
Post by: Antman1 on November 29, 2008, 12:11:00 PM
Post by: furrygold1 on November 29, 2008, 02:10:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Nov 29 2008, 07:39 PM) 
You should have 3 wires (gnd, 5V and Tx) going to the dvd drive and two wires (gnd pin 5 and Rx pin 2)
Hello,
Sorry but it's Tx and no Rx?and from the picture you are write :
Pin 2 : RxD
Pin 3 : TxD
or in the schema TTL TxD go in Pin 2 and TTL RxD go in Pin 3
sorry for my bad english.
This post has been edited by furrygold1: Nov 29 2008, 10:14 PM
Post by: prelude on November 29, 2008, 04:41:00 PM
Post by: O_oTheGameo_O on November 29, 2008, 05:53:00 PM
did few liteon's today with maximus tool and it's brilliant!!!
Post by: yaywoop on November 29, 2008, 07:27:00 PM
QUOTE(furrygold1 @ Nov 30 2008, 08:46 AM) 
Hello,
Sorry but it's Tx and no Rx?and from the picture you are write :
Pin 2 : RxD
Pin 3 : TxD
or in the schema TTL TxD go in Pin 2 and TTL RxD go in Pin 3
sorry for my bad english.
yeah that is a bit confusing. tx on the dvd drive is where the dvd drive transmits the signal. you connect that to the Rx pin on the serial port so that the computer can receive the signal.
so the dvd drive transmits and the computer receives.
QUOTE(Antman1 @ Nov 30 2008, 06:47 AM)
hats off to you. nice job!
QUOTE(prelude @ Nov 30 2008, 11:17 AM)
you are very talented my friend
Thanks
Post by: calloused labia on November 29, 2008, 07:30:00 PM
QUOTE(O_oTheGameo_O @ Nov 29 2008, 08:29 PM)
I rather not...
did few liteon's today with maximus tool and it's over priced and would have been bricking 360s had the Liteons been writable!!!
did few liteon's today with maximus tool and it's over priced and would have been bricking 360s had the Liteons been writable!!!
fixed
Post by: yaywoop on November 29, 2008, 09:25:00 PM
so you don't have to solder those tiny points on the dvd drive. a pin and a crocodile clip work
the crocodile ground clip isn't needed if you are powering the dvd drive from the PC.
I used a HDD power plug in the PC to supply 5V. a usb lead could also be used for 5V
yes you still need to solder the thing together
Post by: yaywoop on November 29, 2008, 10:37:00 PM
now I just need to add an LED and it will pretty much cover all the features
Post by: LazyTank on November 29, 2008, 11:10:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on November 29, 2008, 11:30:00 PM
QUOTE(LazyTank @ Nov 30 2008, 05:46 PM)
This looks like fun, I might do this using parts from my broken xbox1 for added irony.
heh yeah but you might have trouble.. it will be all SMD. you could try it though.
Post by: vinz on November 30, 2008, 02:52:00 PM
Thanks for this guide!
Post by: emawind84 on December 01, 2008, 06:29:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Nov 30 2008, 06:01 AM)
NEW 'solderless' adapter. ok not really new but anyway...
so you don't have to solder those tiny points on the dvd drive. a pin and a crocodile clip work
the crocodile ground clip isn't needed if you are powering the dvd drive from the PC.
I used a HDD power plug in the PC to supply 5V. a usb lead could also be used for 5V
yes you still need to solder the thing together
hey yaywoop great job but i don't understand why i have to use a crocodile clip, isn't it enough if i connect gnd on molex too? together to 5v? thanks
Post by: yaywoop on December 01, 2008, 06:52:00 AM
if you are powering the dvd drive from the xbox, which is not grounded, you need to use the grounding clip.
an ungrounded xbox case can have very large voltages with reference to ground which could fry your serial port.
Post by: emawind84 on December 01, 2008, 10:39:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 1 2008, 03:28 PM)
well your computer is already grounded. the issue is if the dvd drive is sharing the same ground as the case. if you are powering the drive from the pc you don't have to worry about the grounding clip.
if you are powering the dvd drive from the xbox, which is not grounded, you need to use the grounding clip.
an ungrounded xbox case can have very large voltages with reference to ground which could fry your serial port.
what means "ground on dvd"? i would power up the dvd drive from the xbox and i'm not sure where i must put the ground of rs232 :S
And than i don't understand because i can't connect gnd of rs232 directly in molex
Post by: emawind84 on December 01, 2008, 11:06:00 AM
This post has been edited by emawind84: Dec 1 2008, 07:07 PM
Post by: TimberWolf5 on December 01, 2008, 11:21:00 AM
You can build a real RS232 with maxim chip for free as-well. The maxim website (http://www.maxim-ic.com/) gives out free samples of the maxim3232 chip. They take about 2-3 weeks to arrive. All you need is five 0.1uf capicators, a female serial cable, and this diagram below. Cheers.
I guess you can call this how to dump the lite on key for free part 2 eh yaywoop?
(IMG:http://www.devilsps3.centelia.net/liteon/index_files/image004.jpg)
This post has been edited by TimberWolf5: Dec 1 2008, 07:22 PM
Post by: DOGZ BOLLAX on December 01, 2008, 12:34:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 1 2008, 02:28 PM)
well your computer is already grounded. the issue is if the dvd drive is sharing the same ground as the case. if you are powering the drive from the pc you don't have to worry about the grounding clip.
if you are powering the dvd drive from the xbox, which is not grounded, you need to use the grounding clip.
an ungrounded xbox case can have very large voltages with reference to ground which could fry your serial port.
I knew it could be Done!! Well Done m8.
For us less Tech, can you supply any codes for the NPN transistor? I have an old power supply here, seems to have loads on it. After taking two off there is a code on it stating C945 - 42E on it. Another i took of elsewere, states C331. All help is much Appreciated m8..
Many thxs
Dogz;)
Post by: jackbauer22 on December 01, 2008, 12:46:00 PM
Post by: DOGZ BOLLAX on December 01, 2008, 02:35:00 PM
QUOTE(jackbauer22 @ Dec 1 2008, 08:22 PM)
The C945 is a 2SC945 and the C331 a 2SC331. Do a google for data sheet with pinout.
Yea, and so? U tell us plz.. R they ok. He states Any.. Well Dont seem that way. Only clearing things b4 someone goes BANG!
I was cable scene, most of the gear here talks RX + TX to Serial, but with MAX233 and Just Serial 2 Scart no chips, also MAX232CPE, ALL TX And RX. they May work also? Who knows..
SO Clearing Things up, not a crime..
Thx
Dogz;)
This post has been edited by DOGZ BOLLAX: Dec 1 2008, 10:46 PM
Post by: DOGZ BOLLAX on December 01, 2008, 05:33:00 PM
QUOTE(DOGZ BOLLAX @ Dec 1 2008, 10:11 PM)
Yea, and so? U tell us plz.. R they ok. He states Any.. Well Dont seem that way. Only clearing things b4 someone goes BANG!
I was cable scene, most of the gear here talks RX + TX to Serial, but with MAX233 and Just Serial 2 Scart no chips, also MAX232CPE, ALL TX And RX. they May work also? Who knows..
SO Clearing Things up, not a crime..
Dogz;)
WELL COME ON! So called Xbox-Scene!!!
Such Cool Mods and Memz (Counters) But (Ruling out real People That Wanna Learn)... Not seen anything from ya all in this thread, So called Hackers! DO the Job as stated, and c If the "Simple Things Work"? Or are you all working 4 the Kits and getting little pennies to stay alive... (Bring bk real Peeps) I done it, and ALL WAS 4 FREE 2 (With Instructions!!) 1998-2005...... F>U>A
DOgz......
Post by: Gir489 on December 01, 2008, 06:29:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 01, 2008, 10:02:00 PM
QUOTE(DOGZ BOLLAX @ Dec 2 2008, 12:09 PM)
WELL COME ON! So called Xbox-Scene!!!
Such Cool Mods and Memz (Counters) But (Ruling out real People That Wanna Learn)... Not seen anything from ya all in this thread, So called Hackers! DO the Job as stated, and c If the "Simple Things Work"? Or are you all working 4 the Kits and getting little pennies to stay alive... (Bring bk real Peeps) I done it, and ALL WAS 4 FREE 2 (With Instructions!!) 1998-2005...... F>U>A
DOgz......
I don't really understand what you are trying to say there.
yes any npn transistor can be used. as long as you know or can work out the pinout.
QUOTE(TimberWolf5 @ Dec 2 2008, 05:57 AM)
Hahaha this is fantastic. Maximus is gonna have some sleepless nights over this one.
You can build a real RS232 with maxim chip for free as-well. The maxim website (http://www.maxim-ic.com/) gives out free samples of the maxim3232 chip. They take about 2-3 weeks to arrive. All you need is five 0.1uf capicators, a female serial cable, and this diagram below. Cheers.
I guess you can call this how to dump the lite on key for free part 2 eh yaywoop?
yeah if the single transistor doesn't work for you you could use that.
I also made a single transistor converter which converts it to +/- 3V which should work with more serial ports.
Post by: eavaria on December 02, 2008, 10:36:00 AM
Gonna try it myself hopefully tomorrow, but i'm pretty sure that you can join that 2 spots drwaing a line with a simple graphite pencil.
And i guess if you don't even have a soldering iron on ur home, for less than $10 you can have a small bread board, 1 transistor or 2 (buy a backup just in case), the resistors and some cable for a 100% solderless solution. Not even the db9 is required, since it's only 2 pins, you can just stick the wire and put some tape while working. Even the ground wire can be a bridge between the pin and the case (asuming that you are getting the +5V from one of ur molex or anywhere in ur PC PSU).
Too bad i bought my RS232 yesterday for $3 at my local store.
Post by: baltazor on December 02, 2008, 11:06:00 AM
yaywoop,
Nice try ! But is that guide completely solderless ? It sure doesnt look so and still looks complicated !!?
Anyway, i rather will not do that this way.. It seems allot can go wrong whit the drive just connecting those parts to eachother even before i could get out the drive key for the FIRST time
!! It looks fun indeed , but i rather not want to damage my 3 weeks old box render it useless whitout the key !! rgds,
baltazor,
Post by: emawind84 on December 02, 2008, 04:30:00 PM
i connected rs232's gnd on power dvd drive and 5v on a molex in pc ( tried to connect it on power dvd driver too )
Post by: jeremydammit on December 02, 2008, 04:57:00 PM
QUOTE(baltazor @ Dec 2 2008, 10:42 AM)
yaywoop,
Nice try ! But is that guide completely solderless ? It sure doesnt look so and still looks complicated !!?
Anyway, i rather will not do that this way.. It seems allot can go wrong whit the drive just connecting those parts to eachother even before i could get out the drive key for the FIRST time
!! It looks fun indeed , but i rather not want to damage my 3 weeks old box render it useless whitout the key !! rgds,
baltazor,
your just scurrd...put your purse down and give a shot with both hands
Post by: yaywoop on December 02, 2008, 05:59:00 PM
QUOTE(emawind84 @ Dec 3 2008, 11:06 AM)
i've problem, when i connect serial port into pc and power up my xbox with driver connected to it after some times pop up 3 red led and the serial's wire is hot, first that pop up the 3 red led i can do Dosflash in dos and the pc see my driver but when i try dvdkey it's result in output: d800 or something else and anything else, but after 2minutes pop up 3 red led again... i don't know where i'm wrong, i checked out my circuit in all parts and is all right, perhaps is my transistor too light? or perhaps i inverted connector with emitter?
i connected rs232's gnd on power dvd drive and 5v on a molex in pc ( tried to connect it on power dvd driver too )
you are doing something very wrong if your wires are getting hot. check that you are not shorting power to ground.
and are you sure you are connecting the wire to the right place on the dvd drive?
post links to pictures of your setup if you can't work it out
QUOTE(baltazor @ Dec 3 2008, 05:42 AM)
yaywoop,
Nice try ! But is that guide completely solderless ? It sure doesnt look so and still looks complicated !!?
Anyway, i rather will not do that this way.. It seems allot can go wrong whit the drive just connecting those parts to eachother even before i could get out the drive key for the FIRST time
!! It looks fun indeed , but i rather not want to damage my 3 weeks old box render it useless whitout the key !! rgds,
baltazor,
I didn't say you didn't have to solder, you still have to solder the converter together. but you don't have to solder anything in the dvd drive, which you could screw up easily if you have little experience soldering.
this is not complicated! it is as simple a DIY solution you will get! 3 components!
if you follow the instructions and do some reading on how transistors work it should be very straight forward.
Post by: mcraenz on December 02, 2008, 07:54:00 PM
This is great! Only thing I don't understand is why the transistor used is NPN. In this UC hobby schematic they show a PNP connected to the RX said of the PC? Can you help us understand how this works?
Post by: yaywoop on December 02, 2008, 11:09:00 PM
QUOTE(mcraenz @ Dec 3 2008, 02:30 PM)
Hey yaywoop,
This is great! Only thing I don't understand is why the transistor used is NPN. In this UC hobby schematic they show a PNP connected to the RX said of the PC? Can you help us understand how this works?
well you can actually use either NPN or PNP for this converter. but NPN are more common so i made th circuit to use them.
in my schematic, the transistor is acting as a switch. when there is no input, the collector is pulled to 5V by the 1k resistor.
when there is an input voltage, current flows through the base and turns the transistor on, which pulls the coollector low.
the uc hobby schematic has a negative supply which is supplied by the serial port. (rs232 specifies a negative voltage for 1 and a positive voltage for 0, so the negative voltage means it should work with all serial ports just like a max232 chip would)
when the input is high, no current flows through the base, and the output is pulled low by the negative supply.
when the input is low, the transistor is swiched on and the output is pulled high
this is the exact circuit i also tried. it had trouble with the 3V signals from the dvd drive, so i had to run it off 3V for Vcc to get it working. which also meant that it only outputted +/- 3V instead of the standard +/- 12V.. which might have been trouble.
if my one doesn't work for you, you can try the uC hobby circuit. but you can 'status' and 'rs232 to ttl' sections. they are not needed.
Post by: emawind84 on December 03, 2008, 02:34:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 3 2008, 02:35 AM)
you are doing something very wrong if your wires are getting hot. check that you are not shorting power to ground.
and are you sure you are connecting the wire to the right place on the dvd drive?
post links to pictures of your setup if you can't work it out
What means "not shorting power to ground" i'm sorry but my english is very bad
However i used:
transistor NPN bc338-25
R 1k
R 10k
i connected the ground between pin 5 on the dvd driver sata power and emitter,
5v between collector-resistor1k and a molex pc
Tx between base-resistor10k and pin 11 on the dvd drive sata power and another wire for connect at Tx the R707 pin on drive
pin 5 of serial port to emitter
pin 2 of serial port to collector
that's all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
Post by: emawind84 on December 03, 2008, 03:03:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 03, 2008, 06:00:00 AM
but pin 11 is ground on the dvd drive... check the pinout.
probably a good idea to take a picture
Post by: NumpXP on December 03, 2008, 06:22:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 03, 2008, 08:00:00 AM
QUOTE(NumpXP @ Dec 4 2008, 12:58 AM)
i have arduino usb board in hand. is it possible to read the keys using it?
possible, yes. you could program it to read the key and output it by the usb port. but it would be a lot easier to find a pc with a serial connection. or use a usb -> rs232 converter which are about $5 delivered from Dealextreme
Post by: emawind84 on December 03, 2008, 08:21:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 3 2008, 02:36 PM)
hmm doesn't sound like anything should be getting hot...
but pin 11 is ground on the dvd drive... check the pinout.
probably a good idea to take a picture
pin 11 is Tx no ground and pin 12 is Rx i tested them
Post by: yaywoop on December 03, 2008, 08:28:00 AM
QUOTE(emawind84 @ Dec 4 2008, 02:57 AM)
pin 11 is Tx no ground and pin 12 is Rx i tested them
maybe you are counting them differently
I was using the pinout on here http://dwl.xbox-scen...-HandC-V1_4.pdf
so have you figured it out? is it working for you?
Post by: emawind84 on December 03, 2008, 09:06:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 3 2008, 05:04 PM)
maybe you are counting them differently (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I was using the pinout on here http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/tutorial/Xbox_360-HandC-V1_4.pdf
so have you figured it out? is it working for you?
you are right i'm counting them differently, however i've connected gnd at 5v terrible mistake (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) i recheck it over and over again and then... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) i'll test it tonight
This post has been edited by emawind84: Dec 3 2008, 05:06 PM
Post by: emawind84 on December 03, 2008, 04:26:00 PM
DVD key:
2132154a5s4da5s4d6a5...some numbers...
Seems not a good dvd key!!! ...bad serial port comunication B0 B0 ( or 00 00 some times )
i tried many times with the same error... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) help pls!!!
i connected tx in dvd drive right because if i don't connect it as result i have: no comunication with com or something like that
perhaps i put the transistor with collector and emitter in reverse, can be this the problem?
This post has been edited by emawind84: Dec 4 2008, 12:33 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 03, 2008, 06:27:00 PM
QUOTE(emawind84 @ Dec 4 2008, 11:02 AM)
perhaps i put the transistor with collector and emitter in reverse, can be this the problem?
that could be the problem. you may have also damaged the transistor with excessive heat.
you can always test the circuit with a multimeter and a 3 volt battery to emulate the output from the dvd player. but by the sounds of things, it's working but not reliably, which probably indicates the gain of the transistor is low. so yeah you may have the emitter and collector reversed.
it could also be that your serial port doesn't like the non negative voltages, so if the above doesn't work try making the circuit from the uc hobby page.
Post by: emawind84 on December 04, 2008, 01:02:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 4 2008, 03:03 AM)
that could be the problem. you may have also damaged the transistor with excessive heat.
you can always test the circuit with a multimeter and a 3 volt battery to emulate the output from the dvd player. but by the sounds of things, it's working but not reliably, which probably indicates the gain of the transistor is low. so yeah you may have the emitter and collector reversed.
it could also be that your serial port doesn't like the non negative voltages, so if the above doesn't work try making the circuit from the uc hobby page.
what i'd see from this test? i have to power up Tx with 3v and see the response from Rx serial port?
how i can see if the transistor was damaged?
This post has been edited by emawind84: Dec 4 2008, 09:04 AM
Post by: emawind84 on December 04, 2008, 05:59:00 AM
This post has been edited by emawind84: Dec 4 2008, 02:02 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 04, 2008, 07:19:00 AM
QUOTE(emawind84 @ Dec 4 2008, 07:38 PM)
what i'd see from this test? i have to power up Tx with 3v and see the response from Rx serial port?
how i can see if the transistor was damaged?
basically you power the circuit with 5v as you would when using it. then you put a multimeter on the serial connector and apply 3v to the tx input and see what the multimeter reads, it should read 0v when the 3v is applied and 5v when there is no input.
QUOTE(emawind84 @ Dec 5 2008, 12:35 AM)
perhaps i found the problem, when i open the tray and then push it in half way, then i shut down the power of xbox, then power up pc and then in dos power up again xbox360 with sata and rs232 cable already connected into pc with dvd tray already open in half way, could be this the problem?
the order you do things is quite important. see the origional post for the order i used to get it working.
I found that if you have the serial connected to the Tx pin on the dvd drive while booting, it never works. i only connect the serial just before i press enter to execute dvdkey.
also try powering up the xbox at the same time as the pc
Post by: emawind84 on December 04, 2008, 10:12:00 AM
steps:
-power up xbox360
-open tray dvd drive
-open pin 9
-push tray at half way with green led on xbox flash
-power down xbox360
-connect serial to pc
-connect Tx of rs232 at pin 2 on DVD power connector ( using the pinout here this http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/tutorial/Xbox_360-HandC-V1_4.pdf )
-power up PC
-power up xbox360
-in dos connect sata cable
-dosflash and take address
-connect Tx of rs232 ( another wire ) on R707 in the hole on dvd drive ( not need to solder on drive )
-dvdkey address
-that's all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
thanks yaywoop for your help
Post by: psykiller on December 04, 2008, 01:13:00 PM
can we use maximus xtractor reader software to read the keys?
thanks in advance.
Post by: Senaxx on December 04, 2008, 06:25:00 PM
I've got all the tools, resistors and transistors and the serial connector and i'm not that good in scheme's
Thanx
Post by: yaywoop on December 04, 2008, 07:15:00 PM
QUOTE(psykiller @ Dec 5 2008, 07:49 AM)
can i use old executer connectivity kit for powering the drive? and computer case for grounding the drive?
can we use maximus xtractor reader software to read the keys?
thanks in advance.
yes you can use the connectivity kit to power the drive.
and any software should work. the hardware functions in the same way as the maximuis and xecuter extractor hardware
Post by: baltazor on December 04, 2008, 07:43:00 PM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 3 2008, 01:33 AM)
your just scurrd...put your purse down and give a shot with both hands (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
If i had an "purse" i woudnt hesitate to do it myself.. But you see... Lately , my purse has been reduced to just an empty wallet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 3 2008, 02:35 AM)
this is not complicated! it is as simple a DIY solution you will get! 3 components!
if you follow the instructions and do some reading on how transistors work it should be very straight forward.
Sure,, Nothing is complicated as long you know how things work! But whitout that knowledge... good luck !!
And i rather dont want to put my new xbox at stake to test my luck you see (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) !
Cuz, to you it sounds all so simple... But i read allot posts about poeple frying their drive.. In this thread ive read a somewot similar thing about "overheating" using this method !!!
you said it yourself :
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 3 2008, 02:35 AM)
you may have also damaged the transistor with excessive heat.
you see such an statements tend to stick in the back of one his/her head (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Nice though , to see poeple like you sharing their inventions to help others (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
rgds,
baltaatje
This post has been edited by baltazor: Dec 5 2008, 03:55 AM
Post by: psykiller on December 04, 2008, 10:15:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 5 2008, 03:51 AM)
yes you can use the connectivity kit to power the drive.
and any software should work. the hardware functions in the same way as the maximuis and xecuter extractor hardware
this is ultra cool. i have 4 liteon drive needs to be dumped. will post the results as soon as its done.
but before that i need some help, I desoldered few resistors and transistors from old dialup modem and tried other few devices. But I am unable to find 10k and 1k resistor. So is there any range of resistor we can use or its only 10k and 1k? and will a modem transistor work with this diy? is there any polarity issue with the transistor?
thanks
QUOTE(baltazor @ Dec 5 2008, 04:19 AM)
If i had an "purse" i woudnt hesitate to do it myself.. But you see... Lately , my purse has been reduced to just an empty wallet
Sure,, Nothing is complicated as long you know how things work! But whitout that knowledge... good luck !!
And i rather dont want to put my new xbox at stake to test my luck you see
!Cuz, to you it sounds all so simple... But i read allot posts about poeple frying their drive.. In this thread ive read a somewot similar thing about "overheating" using this method !!!
you said it yourself :
you see such an statements tend to stick in the back of one his/her head
Nice though , to see poeple like you sharing their inventions to help others
rgds,
baltaatje
For some this might be the only option available. I am from india and most of the sites don't ship mods to india. I was stuck with 4 liteon drives.
This really rocks....
Post by: yaywoop on December 04, 2008, 11:30:00 PM
QUOTE(baltazor @ Dec 5 2008, 02:19 PM)
If i had an "purse" i woudnt hesitate to do it myself.. But you see... Lately , my purse has been reduced to just an empty wallet
Sure,, Nothing is complicated as long you know how things work! But whitout that knowledge... good luck !!
And i rather dont want to put my new xbox at stake to test my luck you see
!Cuz, to you it sounds all so simple... But i read allot posts about poeple frying their drive.. In this thread ive read a somewot similar thing about "overheating" using this method !!!
you said it yourself :
you see such an statements tend to stick in the back of one his/her head
Nice though , to see poeple like you sharing their inventions to help others
rgds,
baltaatje
can i just straighten something up? this literally is the simplest hardware for dumping a liteon key. one transistor! the max232 contains hundreds of transistors. and there are a lot more pins to solder if you want to put it together yourself.
the overheating i spoke about is when desoldering the transistor to build the adapter, because transistors are sensitive to heat, it won't actually damage the liteon drive if you manage to damage a transistor..
as long as there is a 10k resistor between whatever you build and the liteon drive, it is near impossible to damage the drive if you are using a pin to connect the TX point. its very safe because you don't have to solder anything on the drive its self.
and I am trying to share my knowledge... if you don't understand how the circuit works, read! wikipedia is a great source of info. and a simple google search "how transistors work" will help a lot.
QUOTE(psykiller @ Dec 5 2008, 04:51 PM)
this is ultra cool. i have 4 liteon drive needs to be dumped. will post the results as soon as its done.
but before that i need some help, I desoldered few resistors and transistors from old dialup modem and tried other few devices. But I am unable to find 10k and 1k resistor. So is there any range of resistor we can use or its only 10k and 1k? and will a modem transistor work with this diy? is there any polarity issue with the transistor?
thanks
For some this might be the only option available. I am from india and most of the sites don't ship mods to india. I was stuck with 4 liteon drives.
This really rocks....
yes transistor polarity matters. read my first post carefully and you should probably learn the basics of how a transistor works (not needed but useful)
if the transistor from this modem is an NPN it will work. to test for this see my first post. you could also try googling the code on the transistor and see if you can find a datasheet for it (would make it a lot easier)
any resistor value around the stated value should work. the 10k res value is not that important 5k to 50k should work also.
Post by: psykiller on December 04, 2008, 11:39:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 5 2008, 08:06 AM)
any resistor value around the stated value should work. the 10k res value is not that important 5k to 50k should work also.
got a 36k for 10k replacement, what can be the safe range for 1k?
Post by: psykiller on December 05, 2008, 12:03:00 AM
but i am unable to find the emitter and collector point. since there is nothing mention on the pcb from where i have taken.
Post by: yaywoop on December 05, 2008, 12:09:00 AM
QUOTE(psykiller @ Dec 5 2008, 06:15 PM)
got a 36k for 10k replacement, what can be the safe range for 1k?
500ohms to 5k should work.
preferably around 2k
you can always test if its working with a multimeter and a 3v battery
QUOTE(psykiller @ Dec 5 2008, 06:39 PM)
got few npn transistors, same as yours in the pic. tested using the details on the first post.
but i am unable to find the emitter and collector point. since there is nothing mention on the pcb from where i have taken.
just try it if it doesn't work you probably have the collector and emitter mixed
Post by: psykiller on December 05, 2008, 12:37:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 5 2008, 08:45 AM)
500ohms to 5k should work.
preferably around 2k
you can always test if its working with a multimeter and a 3v battery
just try it if it doesn't work you probably have the collector and emitter mixed
I noticed a strange thing, this might help in identifying the collector and emitter point.
when i connect the positive end of my multimeter to the base, both the other points give some reading. but if i connect negative end of my multimeter to the base, then only one point is giving reading.
Post by: yaywoop on December 05, 2008, 05:55:00 AM
QUOTE(psykiller @ Dec 5 2008, 07:13 PM)
I noticed a strange thing, this might help in identifying the collector and emitter point.
when i connect the positive end of my multimeter to the base, both the other points give some reading. but if i connect negative end of my multimeter to the base, then only one point is giving reading.
are you sure it's a transistor?
if it is a transistor it must be damaged somehow.
does your multimeter have a diode voltage drop function? tell me what the readings are with that.
otherwise an old CRT monitor will have plenty of transistors if someone is throwing one out..
the diode equivalence on this page might help http://www.st-andrew...olar/page1.html
Post by: allbon on December 05, 2008, 06:25:00 AM
RS232 standards:
1 is received for V lower than -3V
0 is received for V higher than +3V
yours:
1 is received for V =OV (not standard)
0 is received for V =+5V (ok)
That means it may not work on every serial port!
Best way to test it is to make the Rx part aswell with another transistor, then short Rx and Tx and check if you receive echo in any Hyperterminal software.
Although I'd say best is to make this http://www.xboxhacke...g66359#msg66359 which better complies with RS232 standards.
Post by: yaywoop on December 05, 2008, 06:38:00 AM
QUOTE(allbon @ Dec 6 2008, 01:01 AM)
You should definately warn ppl that your circuit works only on serial ports with flawed implementation of RS232 standards.
RS232 standards:
1 is received for V lower than -3V
0 is received for V higher than +3V
yours:
1 is received for V =OV (not standard)
0 is received for V =+5V (ok)
That means it may not work on every serial port!
Best way to test it is to make the Rx part aswell with another transistor, then short Rx and Tx and check if you receive echo in any Hyperterminal software.
Although I'd say best is to make this http://www.xboxhacke...g66359#msg66359 which better complies with RS232 standards.
correct. I mentioned that in the first post.
and yes you could instead use a PNP and a diode and capacitor to make it rs232 standard. but i thought this was simpler and would still work with most computers
Post by: allbon on December 05, 2008, 07:19:00 AM
Especially when you state that this is a "common emitter amplifier", which is wrong.
In your circuit, the transistor works as a switch 5V/0V - it doesnt amplify nor inverse voltage (V never goes below 0V).
A real CEA circuit uses low voltage alternative current as input (TTL is all but alternative and low voltage) and requires at least some capacitors to remove the continuous voltage part (thus giving -2.5<V<+2.5 instead of 0<V<5 for example).
Post by: hurricane02 on December 05, 2008, 01:00:00 PM
Post by: baltazor on December 05, 2008, 04:04:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 5 2008, 08:06 AM)
this literally is the simplest hardware for dumping a liteon key.
Iam sure you dont speak for all of uss
!! QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 5 2008, 08:06 AM)
it won't actually damage the liteon drive if you manage to damage a transistor..
as long as there is a 10k resistor between whatever you build and the liteon drive,
You see, thats wot i find troublesome about this whole thing!! It seems, there are still some safety measures which can be overlooked and thus therefor damage the drive !! Can you say whitout a doubt in your mind that your "simple" guide is 100% brick proof sort of speak !!
rgds,
baltaatje,
Post by: Hype on December 05, 2008, 05:55:00 PM
(IMG:http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/8584/sduibfg783ez3.jpg)
is this correct, too?
and solderless convertible?
Post by: yaywoop on December 05, 2008, 08:33:00 PM
QUOTE(allbon @ Dec 6 2008, 01:55 AM)
Well, no offence but its far from clear in your first post
Especially when you state that this is a "common emitter amplifier", which is wrong.
In your circuit, the transistor works as a switch 5V/0V - it doesnt amplify nor inverse voltage (V never goes below 0V).
A real CEA circuit uses low voltage alternative current as input (TTL is all but alternative and low voltage) and requires at least some capacitors to remove the continuous voltage part (thus giving -2.5<V<+2.5 instead of 0<V<5 for example).
ok point taken.
it is still basically a 'CEA' but driven to saturation.
and when i said invert, i meant logic wise. sorry for any confusion.
QUOTE(Hype @ Dec 6 2008, 11:55 AM)
i found this on another forum:
is this correct, too?
and solderless convertible?
yes that is correct, and will work 'solder free' by use of a pin. you still need to solder the 3v point. but that is a lot easier
and the NPN transistor can be removed. as can the two 4k7 resistors and the 10k connected to it
that circuit is slightly superior to the one i posted as it provides +3.3v and -3.3v to tthe serial port.
QUOTE(baltazor @ Dec 6 2008, 10:40 AM)
Iam sure you dont speak for all of uss
!! You see, thats wot i find troublesome about this whole thing!! It seems, there are still some safety measures which can be overlooked and thus therefor damage the drive !! Can you say whitout a doubt in your mind that your "simple" guide is 100% brick proof sort of speak !!
rgds,
baltaatje,
not 100%. but if you follow the guide you won't stuff up your drive.
the most important thing is that there is a 10k res between the Tx pin on the drive and your circuit. that way it is pretty much impossible to do any damage (if you use a pin to contact the tx point) most of the scrtewups are from dud soldering on the drive its self...
Post by: kobazz on December 06, 2008, 04:57:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 05:45:00 AM
QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 6 2008, 11:33 PM)
But do I need to join R707 on the drive as given in the pic?
not if you use a pin to probe the Tx signal.
Post by: allbon on December 06, 2008, 05:55:00 AM
I suggest using a 4.5V battery or the molex 5V of your computer.
Therefore you'll need to connect only ONE wire to the DVD - and a safe one - the Tx (I dont count ground wire as you can easily tape it anywhere on the DVD metal cover).
You dont have to solder R707 if you tape a metal needle at the end of the Tx wire and put it in the correct hole - which is right under the R707 soldering points (betwee "e" and "c" letters of "Connect" word on the picture).
You only have to hold the needle in the hole for a few seconds, while key is being retreived.
Post by: killerz on December 06, 2008, 07:06:00 AM
man how do i add a pic
..my msn [email protected]
if yaywoop or allbon could msg me that would be awesome i did a pic that i want some1 to check before i build it
.Thx guys..
BTW awesome work
This post has been edited by killerz: Dec 6 2008, 03:03 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 06:32:00 AM
using power from the pc molex is definitely a good idea. forgot to mention that
and make sure you have a good ground connection on the drive if it is being powered from the 360. a crocodile clip to any metal part of the xbox or dvd case if you have one.
it will be a lot easier if the parts are bought from radio shack or whatever electronics shop is in your area, all the parts should cost under a dollar
a crocodile clip will probably be the most expensive partalso a bought transistor is guaranteed to have a datasheet and pinout available online
Post by: killerz on December 06, 2008, 07:15:00 AM
will this work..........i removed the 10k two 4k7 and the npn...did i reroute it correctly
Post by: allbon on December 06, 2008, 06:43:00 AM
QUOTE(Hype @ Dec 6 2008, 01:55 AM)
i found this on another forum:
http://img57.imagesh...uibfg783ez3.jpg
is this correct, too?
and solderless convertible?
This is the circuit I did, athough i also soldered the Rx wire and I strongly advise you to do the same if you go for this circuit too. Real pic : http://beta.ivancove...s232_simple.jpg
One little extra wire gives you the ability to test your soldering safely and alone, without requiring the Liteon.
Some pics
There are 3 visible wires: the shortest one is Rx (for testing), the one with needle is Tx and the remaining is Ground.
Notice that I use a homemade 4.5V battery as power supply - I find it safer that using the DVD 5V.
Post by: brisk on December 06, 2008, 07:27:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 6 2008, 03:15 PM) 
http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=test123gb4.jpg](IMG:http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4288/test123gb4.th.jpg)[/URL][/img]
will this work..........i removed the 10k two 4k7 and the npn...did i reroute it correctly
Post by: killerz on December 06, 2008, 07:28:00 AM
-------------- the OP method ..whats that.?
This post has been edited by killerz: Dec 6 2008, 03:29 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 07:01:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 7 2008, 01:28 AM)
what about what im going to do will that work?..did i reroute it correctly.... after i removed the parts?
-------------- the OP method ..whats that.?
instead of replacing the components with wires, just leave nothing.. so get rid of those wires you added
btw i added you on msn if you need some help
Post by: killerz on December 06, 2008, 07:37:00 AM
QUOTE(allbon @ Dec 6 2008, 03:19 PM)
This is the circuit I did, athough i also soldered the Rx wire and I strongly advise you to do the same if you go for this circuit too. Real pic : http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/images/0/04...s232_simple.jpg
One little extra wire gives you the ability to test your soldering safely and alone, without requiring the Liteon.
Some pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://pix.nofrag.com/9/f/7/34a87008d1ea35d8c5ffde03a7761.jpg)
(IMG:http://pix.nofrag.com/e/7/2/94a33a1a771c46bfffb3f3e2d9788.jpg)
There are 3 visible wires: the shortest one is Rx (for testing), the one with needle is Tx and the remaining is Ground.
Notice that I use a homemade 4.5V battery as power supply - I find it safer that using the DVD 5V.
Do you have any pic's of the underside of it
Post by: allbon on December 06, 2008, 07:01:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 6 2008, 03:28 PM)
what about what im going to do will that work?..did i reroute it correctly.... after i removed the parts?
-------------- the OP method ..whats that.?
brisk said it WONT work!
What MIGHT work is keeping the two 4.7kohm res and stripping everything that is behind them (transistor, 10kohm res and the wire).
But would you risk your liteon to save less than 50cts without the ability to test your circuit ?
Post by: allbon on December 06, 2008, 07:28:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 6 2008, 03:37 PM)
Do you have any pic's of the underside of it
It may be very hard to decyper my poor soldering skills
(i have a high res picture if needed)
Original is here :
http://picprojects.o...pleSIO/ssio.jpg
http://picprojects.o...pleSIO/ssio.htm
Post by: kobazz on February 03, 2020, 08:56:00 AM
Since my PC isn't grounded through the power cord I have made a true gnd between the PC casing and a metal water pipe.
(IMG:http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/8494/06122008222ch6.jpg)
(IMG:http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/3500/06122008227la5.jpg)
(IMG:http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/7334/06122008226iw4.jpg)
(IMG:http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/559/06122008228ca2.jpg)
(IMG:http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/3505/06122008229cp2.jpg)
This post has been edited by kobazz: Yesterday, 04:57 PM
Post by: fitsman on December 06, 2008, 09:47:00 AM
And finally the new ixtreme 1.5 is gonna flashed with totally different way than previes in benq/hitachi/samsung drivers?
A lot of thanks for your answers and time.
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 09:55:00 AM
QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 02:56 AM)
I did it like this but it won't work. Any clues what i'm doing wrong here?
Since my PC isn't grounded through the power cord I have made a true gnd between the PC casing and a metal water pipe.
your circuit looks fine. nice soldering by the way
what does dvdkey return? does it say your com port appears to be working but no key?
you might need to disconnect the Tx wire (to the dvd drive) while you are booting and connect it just before you run dvdkey. i found that i could never get the key if i had it all connected while booting.
other than that, have you verified the circuit is working with a multimeter?
it is also possible your serial port simply doesn't like the non standard 0 to 5v signal levels. if that's the case you might need to build the slightly more complex circuit mentioned earlier
link: http://www.uchobby.c...ptor-explained/
and you can omit the 'rs232 to TTL' section.
Post by: kobazz on December 06, 2008, 09:58:00 AM
À D608CG82281105ST1 4758C0 LPSD GD1-D6S2 x x ã x h
and INQUIRY.BIN:
2[ PLDS DG-16D2S 74850CA0A1D608CG82281105ST1
Any chance one of those two is the key?
DVDKEY saved those two files and then gave the error that it didnt work but that the serial port works though.
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 10:07:00 AM
QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 04:34 AM)
Anyway this is wat IDENTIFY.BIN says:
À… D608CG82281105ST1 4758C0 LPSD GD1-D6S2 x x ã x h
and INQUIRY.BIN:
€ 2[ PLDS DG-16D2S 74850CA0A1D608CG82281105ST1
Any chance one of those two is the key?
DVDKEY saved those two files and then gave the error that it didnt work but that the serial port works though.
no the key will be saved in key.bin.
try disconnecting the tx wire until you run dvdkey because it sounds like the hardware is working ok
oh yeah and the grounding to a water pipe is not needed. you just need to make sure your pc/360 share the same ground (cases are electrically cconnected)
QUOTE(fitsman @ Dec 7 2008, 04:23 AM)
Is there a change to dump - flash the new liteon with less and easyiest soldering than the above pictures?
And finally the new ixtreme 1.5 is gonna flashed with totally different way than previes in benq/hitachi/samsung drivers?
A lot of thanks for your answers and time.
yeah you don't have to solder anything to the drive. you can just wrap the ground wire through a hole in the metal case. and you can use 5v off a molex power connector in your pc. and the tx connection can be made with a pin through the tx wire. this has all been spoken of earlier.
you do need to solder the transistor, resistors and wire together. unless you use a 'breadboard' or just wrap the wires together (which i am not recommending but it will probably work)
as for the 1.5 firmware. no one knows (at least no one outside of those who are developing it)
Post by: kobazz on February 03, 2020, 10:51:00 AM
This post has been edited by kobazz: Yesterday, 06:52 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 10:18:00 AM
QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 04:51 AM)
That did trick! Thanks yaywoop for that last tip and for your cheapass method;). Hope others can benefit from the pictures I took.
yeah those pictures are great! saves me from taking more thanks for that.
i am glad to hear is worked for you!
Post by: kobazz on February 03, 2020, 12:18:00 PM
Anyway. When i open key.bin i get all kinds of gibberish.
ie: °_2cì ü
Good thing I took a picture of my monitor with the key.
(IMG:http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/1941/06122008232pe1.jpg)
Post by: Kaetzchen on December 06, 2008, 12:10:00 PM
would this cheap 4$ RS232 To TTL converter work also?
Voltage: 5V
Post by: killerz on December 06, 2008, 06:46:00 PM
im getting a xbox tomorrow and i know its going to have a lite-on and i have a samsung here waiting hehe
ok so i just built the device..now i want to test it ..is there a way?
awsome pic,s kobazz
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 07:45:00 PM
QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 7 2008, 06:18 AM)
No problem. Thanks again for your nice method.
Anyway. When i open key.bin i get all kinds of gibberish.
ie: ********
Good thing I took a picture of my monitor with the key.
yeah it is in hex, not ascii, so notepad won't recognise it.
but you can open it in a hex editor if you want to view the key again.
QUOTE(Kaetzchen @ Dec 7 2008, 06:46 AM)
sorry 4 offtopic
would this cheap 4$ RS232 To TTL converter work also?
Voltage: 5V
yeah that should work. just run it of 5v
Post by: mcraenz on December 06, 2008, 09:02:00 PM
(IMG:http://mcraenz.googlepages.com/2Pronger.jpg)
Post by: yaywoop on December 06, 2008, 11:10:00 PM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 7 2008, 01:22 PM)
is there a way to test the setup u guys did in kobazz pic's?
im getting a xbox tomorrow and i know its going to have a lite-on and i have a samsung here waiting hehe
ok so i just built the device..now i want to test it ..is there a way?
awsome pic,s kobazz
ok to test your setup you can open hyperterm: "C:\Program Files\Windows NT\hypertrm.exe"
enter something in the area code box to keep it happy. make a new connection called test. connect using com1 (or whatever com port you are plugged into) in the properties window change flow control to none.
and you should get a window with a blinking cursor. at the bottom it should say connected.
now power your adapter from 5V and touch the Tx probe to a 3V (2 x AA batteries) or 5v voltage repeatedly, you should get some crazy symbols appear in hyperterminal. that means your hardware is working!
if you don't get any symbols, try rubbing the probe lightly against the 3v source. eventually something should appear.
alternatively you can construct the other half of the converter that i said was not needed in the first post, join the Rx to the Tx and do a loopback test.
QUOTE(mcraenz @ Dec 7 2008, 03:02 PM)
How about this for an idea. (Sorry about the crud diagram.) Should work?
http://mcraenz.googl...om/2Pronger.jpg
yeah.. basically the same as what we where talking about earlier.
you can get rid of the NPN and the resistors connected to it.
and its probably easier to use a molex connector for the 5v instead of a prong
Post by: killerz on December 06, 2008, 11:52:00 PM
so a few questions ..
i have 3 wires 1-gnd,1-5v,1-TxD,
so i connected the TxD wire to a needle
now for the 5v im going to be connecting it to the pc red wire
now the gnd? do i have to connect that to the pc also or to the xbox?
btw i have a Xecuter kit v2.can that be used? or is that something diferant all together?
many many many thx guys for helping me understand this
Post by: yaywoop on December 07, 2008, 01:09:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 7 2008, 06:28 PM)
sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet so i made it and i just tested it and i got weard symbols so i take it its working AWESOME
so a few questions ..
i have 3 wires 1-gnd,1-5v,1-TxD,
so i connected the TxD wire to a needle
now for the 5v im going to be connecting it to the pc red wire
now the gnd? do i have to connect that to the pc also or to the xbox?
btw i have a Xecuter kit v2.can that be used? or is that something diferant all together?
many many many thx guys for helping me understand this
great.
if you are using a connectivity kit (that powers your dvd drive from the pc) you don't have to worry about the ground wire. the only connection you have to make to the dvd drive it through the tx needle. the ground is already connected through the connectivity kit. and yes 5v is though the red wire from your pc power supply.
and the adapter you made should already share a ground with the pc through the serial port (pin 5 on the db9 connector))
Post by: jackwest on December 07, 2008, 02:50:00 AM
I built the circuit as described with the tx needle.
Two things:
I don't have any 1k ohm resistors, but i have a bunch of 10k ohm.. Any problems with just using a 10k?
I tested the circuit with a multimeter when powered by 5v. I read 5v between pin 3 and 5 of serial connector when tx needle isn't touching anything and 0v when tx pin is touching 5v.
When touching the tx point on liteon drive I read 1.6v.
dvdkey says it cannot communicate with com port and when i open hyper terminal on the com port and probe/unprobe the needle I get no symbols showing up. I have tried hyper terminal on two different pcs.
Does this indicate a problem with my circuit or do my computers just not like the "simple style" of the circuit?
This post has been edited by jackwest: Dec 7 2008, 10:51 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 07, 2008, 02:57:00 AM
QUOTE(jackwest @ Dec 7 2008, 09:26 PM)
pretty sweet tutorial you have here
I built the circuit as described with the tx needle.
Two things:
I don't have any 1k ohm resistors, but i have a bunch of 10k ohm.. Any problems with just using a 10k?
I tested the circuit with a multimeter when powered by 5v. I read 5v between pin 3 and 5 of serial connector when tx needle isn't touching anything and 0v when tx pin is touching 5v.
When touching the tx point on liteon drive I read 1.6v.
dvdkey says it cannot communicate with com port and when i open hyper terminal on the com port and probe/unprobe the needle I get no symbols showing up. I have tried hyper terminal on two different pcs.
Does this indicate a problem with my circuit or do my computers just not like the "simple style" of the circuit?
10k should work as a substitute
and why have you got it connected to pin 3 on the serial port? should be pin 2
Post by: jackwest on December 07, 2008, 03:21:00 AM
i guess i didnt realize tx on the drive was supposed to connect to rx on the serial port. Makes a lot more sense now that I think about it though....
moved to pin2 and everything is working fine.
thanks for the help mate and the quick reply.
Post by: killerz on December 07, 2008, 06:12:00 AM
i hope u dont mind questions
...heres a few more. hehe
software ..what should i use in dos
and in windows what should i use.....
also whats the best way to find my sata port ..mine is on board
its a working 1 i have flashed every drive except a lite-on so i know its a good 1
but without using iprep whats the best way.
and again ---we salute you yaywoop
Post by: yaywoop on December 07, 2008, 06:31:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 8 2008, 12:48 AM)
yaywoop U ROCK DUDE I MEAN ROCK.............many many many thx for everything ya been doing for us all and of course --myself..
i hope u dont mind questions
...heres a few more. hehe
software ..what should i use in dos
and in windows what should i use.....
also whats the best way to find my sata port ..mine is on board
its a working 1 i have flashed every drive except a lite-on so i know its a good 1
but without using iprep whats the best way.
and again ---we salute you yaywoop
well I only ever used dos based tools. which i explained in my first post.
however, any windows based software like the maximus stuff should work too. as the hardware is essentially the same
Post by: dangerpaki on December 07, 2008, 09:18:00 AM
QUOTE(TimberWolf5 @ Dec 1 2008, 07:57 PM)
Hahaha this is fantastic. Maximus is gonna have some sleepless nights over this one.
You can build a real RS232 with maxim chip for free as-well. The maxim website (http://www.maxim-ic.com/) gives out free samples of the maxim3232 chip. They take about 2-3 weeks to arrive. All you need is five 0.1uf capicators, a female serial cable, and this diagram below. Cheers.
I guess you can call this how to dump the lite on key for free part 2 eh yaywoop?
(IMG:http://www.devilsps3.centelia.net/liteon/index_files/image004.jpg)
he dude thanx for the schematic. could you give me a link to where the free samples are given out. i can't find it on their website.
ok i found the page where i can order samples but i see a lot of them different ones with max3232 which one should i take?? sorry for the noob question but i am new to this thing and want to learn this stuff
This post has been edited by dangerpaki: Dec 7 2008, 05:29 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 07, 2008, 09:55:00 AM
QUOTE(dangerpaki @ Dec 8 2008, 03:54 AM)
he dude thanx for the schematic. could you give me a link to where the free samples are given out. i can't find it on their website.
ok i found the page where i can order samples but i see a lot of them different ones with max3232 which one should i take?? sorry for the noob question but i am new to this thing and want to learn this stuff
little bit off topic. PM him.
Post by: killerz on December 07, 2008, 10:01:00 AM
hehe
ok so is there somthing i need to do to the connectivity kit?(add a switch for the eject?)
if so were do i add it
Post by: killerz on December 07, 2008, 10:16:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 07, 2008, 10:20:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 8 2008, 04:52 AM)
how do i keep the dvd tray in open state
yeah you can add a switch or just pull the wire out without breaking it so you can push it back in. use a needle to lift the little plastic tab on the connector.
Post by: killerz on December 07, 2008, 10:41:00 AM
also is it nesacary ? of can i just power off the drive(im using a connectivity kit v2)
any pics
Post by: Hype on December 07, 2008, 11:31:00 AM
that's really all? it looks so easy
Post by: fobboi on December 07, 2008, 03:01:00 PM
thanks in advance
fobboi
Post by: yaywoop on December 07, 2008, 06:36:00 PM
QUOTE(Hype @ Dec 8 2008, 06:07 AM)
for my better understanding...
that's really all? it looks so easy
yup petty much. you should edit the image so that pin 5 on the serial port is connected to the emmiter. ie: the dvd ground is connected to the pc ground.
Post by: yaywoop on December 07, 2008, 06:51:00 PM
QUOTE(fobboi @ Dec 8 2008, 09:37 AM)
quick question. any pnp or npn transistor would work?
thanks in advance
fobboi
any NPN will work with the circuit i have shown. a pnp could be used if the circuit is modified. but its easier just to find a npn, they are more common anyway
Post by: Hype on December 07, 2008, 07:11:00 PM
I hope I understand you right. (my english isn't the best)
(IMG:http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6664/io888856z9v2py3.th.png)
now is pin 5 connected with PC-GND (case), emitter and DVD-GND (case)
Post by: Senaxx on December 08, 2008, 02:31:00 AM
QUOTE(Hype @ Dec 8 2008, 03:47 AM)
thanks yaywoop
I hope I understand you right. (my english isn't the best)
now is pin 5 connected with PC-GND (case), emitter and DVD-GND (case)
If it's really that simple i'm gonna make myself one now
Post by: yaywoop on December 08, 2008, 03:30:00 AM
QUOTE(Senaxx @ Dec 8 2008, 09:07 PM)
If it's really that simple i'm gonna make myself one now
yeah it really is that simple
heh maybe i should change the image in my first post with that one
it is a much clearer schematic.
Post by: Senaxx on December 08, 2008, 04:45:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 8 2008, 12:06 PM)
yeah it really is that simple
heh maybe i should change the image in my first post with that one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
it is a much clearer schematic.
For us schematic noobs it is yeah (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) But how about incorporating the drive tray switch, just put in on pin 9 (if i remember right?)
This post has been edited by Senaxx: Dec 8 2008, 12:49 PM
Post by: allbon on December 08, 2008, 05:28:00 AM
I mean the 3.3V of sata standard is barely used and a lot of motherboards are bundled with molex to sata adapters which only supply 5V and 12V.
Post by: dangerpaki on December 08, 2008, 07:39:00 AM
(IMG:http://www.devilsps3.centelia.net/liteon/index_files/image004.jpg)
SO all I need to do is connected the Tx from the drive (transmission from DVD drive) to the Rx of the schematic above (Receiving with the schematic). Am I right until now?
So as we are only receiving information from the LiteOn drive and we are not transmitting something through the serial port I do not need to connect the Tx from the schematic above to anything. Right???
Now all I am left with is the 3.3V and GND of the schematic. So is it true that i could just connect those to pin 6 (for 3.3v) and pin 5, 7, 9 or 11 (for GND) to the DVD's power connector??? I mean the following connector.
(IMG:http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/360DVDPowerConnectorToMolex.jpg)
I am new to all of this and so kind of trying to understand my question is just did I understand it correctly now?
The only question left for me now (if I understand this correctly) where can I find a DVD power plug as illustrated above. so lets say a converter which would convert the power from my computer's PSU to such a plug so I can powerup the DVD player without the need of my xbox.
This post has been edited by dangerpaki: Dec 8 2008, 03:41 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 08, 2008, 08:29:00 AM
QUOTE(dangerpaki @ Dec 9 2008, 02:15 AM)
ok guys just one question. If i use the following schematic which was posted earlier in this thread:
http://www.devilsps3...es/image004.jpg
SO all I need to do is connected the Tx from the drive (transmission from DVD drive) to the Rx of the schematic above (Receiving with the schematic). Am I right until now?
So as we are only receiving information from the LiteOn drive and we are not transmitting something through the serial port I do not need to connect the Tx from the schematic above to anything. Right???
Now all I am left with is the 3.3V and GND of the schematic. So is it true that i could just connect those to pin 6 (for 3.3v) and pin 5, 7, 9 or 11 (for GND) to the DVD's power connector??? I mean the following connector.
http://i50.photobuck...ctorToMolex.jpg
I am new to all of this and so kind of trying to understand my question is just did I understand it correctly now?
The only question left for me now (if I understand this correctly) where can I find a DVD power plug as illustrated above. so lets say a converter which would convert the power from my computer's PSU to such a plug so I can powerup the DVD player without the need of my xbox.
this is really the wrong topic to be asking about max3232 circuits. this topic is about an ultra simple method requiring no integrated circuits, don't know if you noticed when you read the first post...
as for the dvd power, I found a plug that was the right size in an old laser printer, just had to be cut down with a hobby knife to fit the power socket on the drive. I then soldered the correct wires to wires from my pc power supply.
it is a lot easier just to use the xbox to power the drive though
Post by: dangerpaki on December 08, 2008, 11:35:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 8 2008, 05:05 PM)
this is really the wrong topic to be asking about max3232 circuits. this topic is about an ultra simple method requiring no integrated circuits, don't know if you noticed when you read the first post...
as for the dvd power, I found a plug that was the right size in an old laser printer, just had to be cut down with a hobby knife to fit the power socket on the drive. I then soldered the correct wires to wires from my pc power supply.
it is a lot easier just to use the xbox to power the drive though
thanx. lol you're probably right on my questions being too detailed.
anywyas was there any kind of name or type number on the plug? I rather have the plug so i can make a powerplug myself. not using the xbox to powerup, and maybe mess up my original plug in modding it that's why. i know that plug looks so familiar but i don;t know where i saw it. wait i think i just remember that i saw it on one of my old powersupplies (which i of course threw away because it was broken)
anywhere i can buy this plug?
Post by: sowa99 on December 08, 2008, 11:06:00 AM
This post has been edited by sowa99: Dec 8 2008, 07:07 PM
Post by: Juli1000 on December 08, 2008, 11:15:00 AM
Can you help me building your LiteOn Reader? Do I need a special xbox power cable?
Want to build it like that: http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/593/jdfnnsdfigerpr4.png
How can I put the 5V from the SPU to the Reader?
Post by: fugmenot on December 08, 2008, 02:59:00 PM
as my mainboard doesn't have a COM Port :
Is it possible to use your reader with such a COM to USB adapter ?
sry for my bad english
Post by: allenofmn on December 08, 2008, 03:37:00 PM
QUOTE(fugmenot @ Dec 8 2008, 04:35 PM)
Hi,
as my mainboard doesn't have a COM Port :
Is it possible to use your reader with such a COM to USB adapter ?
sry for my bad english
Most Com to USB adapters are actually just a com port on a usb cable, meaning it adds a com port to your computer.
You actually probably do have a com port on your computer, you just have to find it. Open up the manual for your motherboard, there should be a overview of all the headers on the board. I just got some square pins and plugged into mine.
Post by: darkcurrent on December 08, 2008, 05:05:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Nov 29 2008, 07:39 PM)
All that is required for dumping a liteon key is a transistor and two resistors. which can both be found in old hardware. Computer monitors, VCR's, TV's and radio's are treasure troves of resistors capacitors and signal transistors.
So if you are handy with a soldering iron, why buy an xecuter kit or max232 board that you are only going to use once or twice?
for me at lest it was easier to make one than order online and wait.
The circuit is pretty simple, its a common emitter amplifier which inverts the signal and amplifies it to 5V.
its not strictly rs232 levels, but most serial ports probably won't mind. mine doesn't
Only the transmitting part is needed, the computer only receives the key over rs232, it doesn't transmit anything
So start off by finding an NPN transistor. practically any signal NPN will do.
hopefully the base collector and emitter will be marked on the pcb where you find the transistor (with B C E or something).
To desolder it heat two pins at a time with your soldering iron and wiggle it free, have some fresh solder on the iron to help melt the solder. try not to heat the transistor for too long, they are easily damaged by heat.
To test if the transistor is an npn, get a ohm meter (or battery resistor and led) put the positive lead on the base, if its an NPN you should get a reading when you put the negative lead on the collector and emitter.
if you don't know which pin is the base. just try each pin until the other two pins have a reading.
The 10K resistor will be marked brown black orange (gold)
The 1k resistor will be marked brown black red (gold)
You can always test with a multimeter after you desolder it if you are unsure.
Some desoldered components:
Now put it together! I just did it freeform (without a PCB)
a serial plug could be salvaged from an old modem. or cut up a serial cable
You should have 3 wires (gnd, 5V and Tx) going to the dvd drive and two wires (gnd pin 5 and Rx pin 2) going to the serial port
it should look something like this (sorry about the blurry pic)
Now you also need power to the drive. I made an adapter which plugs into a spare sata power plug, and has a switch to open/close the drive. but you can also just use the Xbox 360 to power it. you might need to disconnect pin 9 (eject) to get the tray to stay partially open (Pinout link the ? pin on that page is 3.3V)
overall my setup looks like this:
I got the dvd power plug from a printer (cut down to fit) and made the SATA power adapter from a piece of PCB filed down to fit and with tracks cut for 12v, 5v, gnd and 3.3v. careful if you don't do it right it could damage your computer power supply or dvd drive.
To get it working I used the dos version of dvdkey, but anything else would probably work.
1 eject the drive and push the tray in half way. leave pin 9 open so the tray doesn't close
2 plug in power and sata
3 turn pc on and boot into dos
4 run dosflash to get the sata address of the dvd drive (say no to any prompts and ctrl+c when you have the address)
5 plug in the serial to the drive and pc. then run: dvdkey address
Hopefully that will work. If it doesn't, check your connections, reboot and try again. you can also try unplugging sata until dos has booted.
You can try probing your circuit with a multimeter, disconnect from pc and dvd power the circuit with 5v, the output should be 5V when the input Tx is pulled low, and 0V when the input Tx is 3V.
Now all you have to do is get another drive and spoof it to replace the liteon.
Of course you can also buy all the parts mentioned, but that would ruin the fun of being able to hack the latest and greatest versions of the 360 absolutely free.
Enjoy.
So where does the rs232 serial output go?
I can build the circuit you specified fine, but I don't know where to plug the female serial port... just directly into the serial port of a computer? What if you don't have these ports anymore?
thanks
Edit: And what will be the point of this when ix1.5 comes out? I read that MS can detect spoofed drives?
Post by: yaywoop on December 08, 2008, 05:53:00 PM
QUOTE(dangerpaki @ Dec 9 2008, 05:35 AM)
thanx. lol you're probably right on my questions being too detailed.
anywyas was there any kind of name or type number on the plug? I rather have the plug so i can make a powerplug myself. not using the xbox to powerup, and maybe mess up my original plug in modding it that's why. i know that plug looks so familiar but i don;t know where i saw it. wait i think i just remember that i saw it on one of my old powersupplies (which i of course threw away because it was broken)
anywhere i can buy this plug?
no and I don't know. you really would be better off using the xbox. i don't see why you are worried about messing the original plug up. you don't need to do anything to the connector
QUOTE(Juli1000 @ Dec 9 2008, 05:51 AM)
Hi,
Can you help me building your LiteOn Reader? Do I need a special xbox power cable?
Want to build it like that: http://img216.images...nsdfigerpr4.png
How can I put the 5V from the SPU to the Reader?
read the first post. that's why i wrote it.
you can use the xbox 360 to power your drive while you dump the key. and to get 5v from the pc power supply you plug a wire into one of the internal power plugs which are usually used for cd drives and hdd's. the red wire is 5V
QUOTE(fugmenot @ Dec 9 2008, 09:35 AM)
Hi,
as my mainboard doesn't have a COM Port :
Is it possible to use your reader with such a COM to USB adapter ?
sry for my bad english
yes a usb com port adapter should work. you will need to use it in windows though as dos doesn't support usb. use the maximus dvd extractor software.
QUOTE(darkcurrent @ Dec 9 2008, 11:41 AM)
So where does the rs232 serial output go?
I can build the circuit you specified fine, but I don't know where to plug the female serial port... just directly into the serial port of a computer? What if you don't have these ports anymore?
thanks
Edit: And what will be the point of this when ix1.5 comes out? I read that MS can detect spoofed drives?
it should be a male plug, and it plugs into the 9 pin female serial socket on the back of your PC. if you don't have the port, either look in your motherboard manual as suggested above, or buy a PCI serial card or a usb to serial adapter. dealextreme has some pretty cheap adapters
as for 1.5 it is still a rumor, so it is hard to tell. it may still require the key do be dumped so it can be injected into the firmware. because it is supposed to be impossible to dump over sata. but i don't know for sure
Post by: darkcurrent on December 08, 2008, 11:04:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 9 2008, 02:29 AM)
no and I don't know. you really would be better off using the xbox. i don't see why you are worried about messing the original plug up. you don't need to do anything to the connector
read the first post. that's why i wrote it.
you can use the xbox 360 to power your drive while you dump the key. and to get 5v from the pc power supply you plug a wire into one of the internal power plugs which are usually used for cd drives and hdd's. the red wire is 5V
yes a usb com port adapter should work. you will need to use it in windows though as dos doesn't support usb. use the maximus dvd extractor software.
it should be a male plug, and it plugs into the 9 pin female serial socket on the back of your PC. if you don't have the port, either look in your motherboard manual as suggested above, or buy a PCI serial card or a usb to serial adapter. dealextreme has some pretty cheap adapters
as for 1.5 it is still a rumor, so it is hard to tell. it may still require the key do be dumped so it can be injected into the firmware. because it is supposed to be impossible to dump over sata. but i don't know for sure
okay, thanks.
one last question. What program do you use to read the output (key) from the serial?
Edit: What's the advantages of using the maximus, xtractor and ck3(sp?)? From my point of view, I could probably build this in less than 10 min for free (have the components) and faster than they could ship it to me... so there has to be a reason people are actually paying for those kits... and the are?
Thanks
Post by: yaywoop on December 09, 2008, 01:20:00 AM
QUOTE(darkcurrent @ Dec 9 2008, 05:40 PM)
okay, thanks.
one last question. What program do you use to read the output (key) from the serial?
Edit: What's the advantages of using the maximus, xtractor and ck3(sp?)? From my point of view, I could probably build this in less than 10 min for free (have the components) and faster than they could ship it to me... so there has to be a reason people are actually paying for those kits... and the are?
Thanks
you can use any program designed to read the liteon key.
the maximus and xtractor are all in one products designed for those who would rather pay $50 and wait a week than make their own for free in an hour
there is no advantage. as far as functionality goes, all they do is get the key and power the drive.
some versions also have usb which is useful if you don't have a com port of a usb serial adapter. but I still don't think its worth the $50
basically they are for the wider population, who do not own soldering irons or don't know how to use them properly or just love buying gadgets with flashing led's
IMO you are not much of a (hardware) hacker if you don't have a soldering iron.
Post by: asurry on December 09, 2008, 05:28:00 AM
QUOTE(TimberWolf5 @ Dec 2 2008, 02:57 AM)
Hahaha this is fantastic. Maximus is gonna have some sleepless nights over this one.
You can build a real RS232 with maxim chip for free as-well. The maxim website (http://www.maxim-ic.com/) gives out free samples of the maxim3232 chip. They take about 2-3 weeks to arrive. All you need is five 0.1uf capicators, a female serial cable, and this diagram below. Cheers.
I guess you can call this how to dump the lite on key for free part 2 eh yaywoop?
(IMG:http://www.devilsps3.centelia.net/liteon/index_files/image004.jpg)
Ha! I'm getting them to send me a few of these.
Post by: gfreeman86 on December 09, 2008, 06:05:00 AM
First thank you very much for this project it's really amazing and also zero-cost!
After reading all the thread I have a question about this two screenshoots:
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/sch.png)
(IMG:http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/593/jdfnnsdfigerpr4.png)
In the screen on the first page, seems I have to link the TxD wire from the DB9 pin to the Lite-On on the yellow baloon of the photo but in the second screen seems I have to link the same wire to R707..
I'm a little bit confused about it...
Thank you very much (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(Sorry for the english (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) )
This post has been edited by gfreeman86: Dec 9 2008, 02:09 PM
Post by: allbon on December 09, 2008, 06:57:00 AM
Post by: Sprooty on December 09, 2008, 07:19:00 AM
Rows are connected as im using Circuit Board
(IMG:http://home.people.net.au/~sprooty/Pics/XB/blank1.jpg)
Post by: yaywoop on December 09, 2008, 07:25:00 AM
QUOTE(gfreeman86 @ Dec 10 2008, 12:41 AM)
Hi guys,
First thank you very much for this project it's really amazing and also zero-cost!
After reading all the thread I have a question about this two screenshoots:
http://i197.photobuc...oop/360/sch.png
http://img216.images...nsdfigerpr4.png
In the screen on the first page, seems I have to link the TxD wire from the DB9 pin to the Lite-On on the yellow baloon of the photo but in the second screen seems I have to link the same wire to R707..
I'm a little bit confused about it...
Thank you very much
(Sorry for the english
)the Tx point in the first image actually connects to the R707 resistor. I think i will edit the image to make it clearer to use a pin probe
Post by: allenofmn on December 09, 2008, 08:01:00 AM
QUOTE(Sprooty @ Dec 9 2008, 08:55 AM)
can someone with a few spare minutes check this?
Rows are connected as im using Circuit Board
(IMG:http://home.people.net.au/~sprooty/Pics/XB/blank1.jpg)
Your mistake is the "Resistor", that should be a Transistor which have 3 pins; base, collector and emitter. Should cost about $1.50 for 2 at RadioShack
This post has been edited by allenofmn: Dec 9 2008, 04:02 PM
Post by: gfreeman86 on December 09, 2008, 08:08:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 9 2008, 04:01 PM)
the Tx point in the first image actually connects to the R707 resistor. I think i will edit the image to make it clearer to use a pin probe
Thank you very much guys, I'll try in these days!
Post by: Nojustice on December 09, 2008, 08:57:00 AM
can I use this
http://www.tcniso.ne...o...at=3&page=1
Hope so!
Post by: Senaxx on December 09, 2008, 09:05:00 AM
So if i'm right, this should do the trick?
I have the crocodile clamp for ground, the white wire for 5V from pc, and the 10k resistor is given a needle.
And with this it should work? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This post has been edited by Senaxx: Dec 9 2008, 05:18 PM
Post by: allenofmn on December 09, 2008, 09:13:00 AM
QUOTE(Nojustice @ Dec 9 2008, 10:33 AM)
i have this from my cable modem hacking days
can I use this
http://www.tcniso.ne...o...at=3&page=1
Hope so!
That is a RS-232 to TTL level converter, which is the same as what we are building here, of course if you had read JUST ABOUT ANY OTHER THREAD ON THIS TOPIC IN THIS FORUM. You would already know that....
This is a discussion on building that for cheap...
please avoid thread hijacking.... thnx
QUOTE(Senaxx @ Dec 9 2008, 10:41 AM)
So if i'm right, this should do the trick?
I have the crocodile clamp for ground, the white wire for 5V from pc, and the 10k resistor is given a needle.
And with this it should work?
You had red and white wires... and you chose white for 5v and red for ground.....uh.. ok....
Other than that... uh.. choice... everything should be correct
Although, what is that other white wire sticking out from the 1k resistor?
It looks like you have both 5v and pin2 on the same side of the resistor, they need to be opposite eachother.
Pin 2 and the transistor on one side of the resistor, 5v alone on the other side.
Post by: Senaxx on December 09, 2008, 09:26:00 AM
QUOTE(allenofmn @ Dec 9 2008, 05:49 PM)
You had red and white wires... and you chose white for 5v and red for ground.....uh.. ok....
Other than that... uh.. choice... everything should be correct
Although, what is that other white wire sticking out from the 1k resistor?
It looks like you have both 5v and pin2 on the same side of the resistor, they need to be opposite eachother.
Pin 2 and the transistor on one side of the resistor, 5v alone on the other side.
You're right about the coloring, that wasn't the best choice:P
If i'm right, the wire from pin2 should be on the "other" side from the 1k resistor? Directly on the the transistor with the resistor.
This post has been edited by Senaxx: Dec 9 2008, 05:27 PM
Post by: allenofmn on December 09, 2008, 09:59:00 AM
QUOTE(Senaxx @ Dec 9 2008, 11:02 AM)
You're right about the coloring, that wasn't the best choice:P
If i'm right, the wire from pin2 should be on the "other" side from the 1k resistor? Directly on the the transistor with the resistor.
Yes that is correct.
In a simple diagram
Transistor - Wire to Pin2 - Resistor - 5V
if that makes sense
Post by: Senaxx on December 09, 2008, 10:05:00 AM
QUOTE(allenofmn @ Dec 9 2008, 06:35 PM)
Yes that is correct.
In a simple diagram
Transistor - Wire to Pin2 - Resistor - 5V
if that makes sense
Yeah i have corrected the wires, And made a Male Molex connector for the 5V from the PC, now i only need to fix myself a needle and some wire and i'm done
Post by: allenofmn on December 09, 2008, 10:07:00 AM
QUOTE(Senaxx @ Dec 9 2008, 11:41 AM)
Yeah i have corrected the wires, And made a Male Molex connector for the 5V from the PC, now i only need to fix myself a needle and some wire and i'm done
A paperclip would work too...
Post by: Senaxx on December 09, 2008, 10:12:00 AM
QUOTE(allenofmn @ Dec 9 2008, 06:43 PM)
hmm nice idea, and i've put a switch on wire 9 from the sata power (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) so i can eject the drive and let it close (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
And 1 other question, just like the OP, IF i want to build a led in, can i just put a led between it, or does it absorb the power ?
This post has been edited by Senaxx: Dec 9 2008, 06:30 PM
Post by: mygls on December 09, 2008, 11:13:00 AM
I'm trying to get the key from my lite on but i have some questions about this diagram:
(IMG:http://img144.imagevenue.com/loc828/th_42476_io888856z9v2py3_122_828lo.JPG)
About 5V: I think i'll be right if i use a power pc supply and put the wire into the hole that matches red wire from one molex.
About grounds: Does it mean that i only need to put one wire on the pc-case (back on the metal) and other on the dvd-case (some metallic place)??
Or am i wrong??
Thanks in advance for your help, and sorry for my bad english (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
This post has been edited by mygls: Dec 9 2008, 07:15 PM
Post by: aracnoz on December 09, 2008, 12:05:00 PM
my npn-transistor is a BC337-25
does it work with this scheme?
thanks
Post by: allenofmn on December 09, 2008, 12:40:00 PM
QUOTE(mygls @ Dec 9 2008, 12:49 PM)
Think i'll be right if i use a power pc supply and put the wire into the hole that matches red wire from one molex.
About grounds: Does it mean that i only need to put one wire on the pc-case (back on the metal) and other on the dvd-case (some metallic place)??
Or am i wrong??
Thanks in advance for your help, and sorry for my bad english (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
If you use the ground on the rs-232 cable, then you don't have to ground to the PC because it is already grounded to the pc that way.
For the optical drive, you can just clip to any part of the metal casing.
QUOTE(aracnoz @ Dec 9 2008, 01:41 PM)
my npn-transistor is a BC337-25
does it work with this scheme?
thanks
Should be good
Post by: Daranus on December 09, 2008, 04:35:00 PM
what a cable can you use then, and what connectors do you have to use?
any help would be very appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you very much,
Daranus
Post by: allenofmn on December 09, 2008, 05:03:00 PM
QUOTE(Daranus @ Dec 9 2008, 06:11 PM)
hey guys, i have read through pretty much the whole thread in the last days but did not explicitely find an answer on how to do it if you have not got such a connection on your pc but only a usb connection?
what a cable can you use then, and what connectors do you have to use?
any help would be very appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you very much,
Daranus
Check your motherboard manual, your board probably has com port headers, you just have to add the port.
My board has a com port headers, they look exactly like the usb headers (on my board at least, may look different on yours). You just need some header pins for it and you are good to go..... Maybe when I get home I'll take some pics for people.
Post by: Daranus on December 09, 2008, 05:14:00 PM
Post by: allenofmn on December 09, 2008, 06:05:00 PM
QUOTE(Daranus @ Dec 9 2008, 06:50 PM)
I have looked it up but I am afraid there are none. 8 sata 8 usb, nothing like com port.. =/
Well... it won't just have a female rs-232 end on it, it'll just be a bunch of pins.
Post by: kipper2k on December 09, 2008, 07:46:00 PM
Hi All,
I am using a CK3 pro and am looking at these schematics and dont see anything that is related to making a spear for the CK3.
My CK3 sets itself up as com 3 on my computer through its USB connection and at the moment i am soldering the 2 points on the DVD board. My question is,...
What circuit would i need to create the spear for my CK3 using these simple components, can it be done or is this just strictly a regular com port thing? (Schematic would be GREATLY! appreciated
thanks
Kipper
Post by: Hype on December 09, 2008, 09:09:00 PM
just hold 2 wired needles on this points:
(IMG:http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/4954/hullespearkp3.th.png)
the self-made spear needs no connection to the ck3.
Post by: kipper2k on December 09, 2008, 09:16:00 PM
Thanks for the help!
Post by: Dre@m on December 10, 2008, 01:23:00 AM
QUOTE(kipper2k @ Dec 10 2008, 05:22 AM)
What circuit would i need to create the spear for my CK3 using these simple components, can it be done or is this just strictly a regular com port thing? (Schematic would be GREATLY! appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
thanks
Kipper
How to make Spear or Probe:
My Webpage
Maxim3232 + CK 1.2 + Probe/Spear:
My Webpage
Nice TuT (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: dangerpaki on December 10, 2008, 02:29:00 AM
QUOTE(Dre@m @ Dec 10 2008, 09:59 AM)
How to make Spear or Probe:
My Webpage
Maxim3232 + CK 1.2 + Probe/Spear:
My Webpage
Nice TuT (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
he dream looking at this schematic on your website. I think you do not need the connectivity kit if you can find one of those DVD power connectors right?
Post by: Dre@m on December 10, 2008, 06:11:00 AM
QUOTE(dangerpaki @ Dec 10 2008, 12:05 PM)
he dream looking at this schematic on your website. I think you do not need the connectivity kit if you can find one of those DVD power connectors right?
Yes. You can use the drive as a power source.
Connectivity kit makes it easy to use and no soldering is required.
This post has been edited by Dre@m: Dec 10 2008, 02:15 PM
Post by: aracnoz on December 10, 2008, 07:02:00 AM
with your very simple scheme and only 1 of component i have extract my liteon dvd key
thx again to everyone for your question that solved me any doubt
Only a suggestion
if at first time the key is not captured to try again
turn off the console (or close the tray and turn dvd power off, if you have a external power) , turn off the computer
and then start again from begin
now i'm waiting for liteon 1.5 fw
:D:D
Post by: Daranus on December 10, 2008, 09:25:00 AM
edit: for example this thingy? http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2537
Post by: bobbler on December 10, 2008, 10:17:00 AM
Post by: lugi on December 10, 2008, 10:19:00 AM
QUOTE(Daranus @ Dec 10 2008, 06:01 PM) 
can really no one help me out what to do if i want to do it with a usb cable???and what kind of cable would be the right one to use?? I did search on any information about that but i didnt find anything really useful so..anyone??
edit: for example this thingy? http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2537
If it's working with "Solderless Liteon Dvd Key Extractor From Diygadget.com - http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=669063&st=0&gopid=4390037&#entry4390037" i don't see any reason why it shouldn't work here too
Post by: fugmenot on December 10, 2008, 12:39:00 PM
QUOTE(lugi @ Dec 10 2008, 06:55 PM)
If it's working with "Solderless Liteon Dvd Key Extractor From Diygadget.com - http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=669063&st=0&gopid=4390037&#entry4390037" i don't see any reason why it shouldn't work here too
Then http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5859 should also work shouldn't it ?
THX for your Help!
Post by: AZImmortal on December 10, 2008, 01:46:00 PM
QUOTE(dangerpaki @ Dec 7 2008, 08:54 AM)
he dude thanx for the schematic. could you give me a link to where the free samples are given out. i can't find it on their website.
ok i found the page where i can order samples but i see a lot of them different ones with max3232 which one should i take?? sorry for the noob question but i am new to this thing and want to learn this stuff
I actually have the same question. Which device and package do we actually choose from amongst the samples they offer? Searching for "max3232" brings up 85 results.
Post by: Almog6k on December 10, 2008, 02:39:00 PM
Just wanted to say thanks! after trying to build using Max3232 that me and a few friends of mine tried to build and failed. Your way worked on the first try.
Echo test successful. (did the RX too.)
Thanks again
Will do the drive when I'll have the time.
Post by: yaywoop on December 10, 2008, 06:18:00 PM
QUOTE(fugmenot @ Dec 11 2008, 07:15 AM)
Then http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5859 should also work shouldn't it ?
THX for your Help!
any of them should work.
as for ordering max3232's have a look at page 15 on the datasheet. it tells you what each of the different types are. you want one of the '16 plastic DIP' types
I would go for the max3232epe+ or max3232cpe+
Post by: Sprooty on December 10, 2008, 07:11:00 PM
QUOTE(allenofmn @ Dec 10 2008, 02:37 AM)
Your mistake is the "Resistor", that should be a Transistor which have 3 pins; base, collector and emitter. Should cost about $1.50 for 2 at RadioShack
Is this better?
http://home.people.net.au/~sprooty/Pics/XB/blank5.jpg
Also, id does not matter that the "Lead to RX" and 10k resistor are on the same row? currently will still flow through the resistor? not around it..??
Post by: AZImmortal on December 10, 2008, 07:28:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 10 2008, 05:54 PM)
any of them should work.
as for ordering max3232's have a look at page 15 on the datasheet. it tells you what each of the different types are. you want one of the '16 plastic DIP' types
I would go for the max3232epe+ or max3232cpe+
Thanks for clearing that up yaywoop. Is one type better than the other?
Post by: fobboi on December 10, 2008, 08:01:00 PM
Post by: fobboi on December 10, 2008, 09:01:00 PM
Post by: ghostbugg on December 10, 2008, 11:28:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Nov 29 2008, 12:39 PM)
All that is required for dumping a liteon key is a transistor and two resistors. which can both be found in old hardware. Computer monitors, VCR's, TV's and radio's are treasure troves of resistors capacitors and signal transistors.
So if you are handy with a soldering iron, why buy an xecuter kit or max232 board that you are only going to use once or twice?
for me at lest it was easier to make one than order online and wait.
The circuit is pretty simple, its a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_emitter which inverts the signal and amplifies it to 5V.
its not strictly rs232 levels, but most serial ports probably won't mind. mine doesn't
Only the transmitting part is needed, the computer only receives the key over rs232, it doesn't transmit anything
So start off by finding an NPN transistor. practically any signal NPN will do.
hopefully the base collector and emitter will be marked on the pcb where you find the transistor (with B C E or something).
To desolder it heat two pins at a time with your soldering iron and wiggle it free, have some fresh solder on the iron to help melt the solder. try not to heat the transistor for too long, they are easily damaged by heat.
To test if the transistor is an npn, get a ohm meter (or battery resistor and led) put the positive lead on the base, if its an NPN you should get a reading when you put the negative lead on the collector and emitter.
if you don't know which pin is the base. just try each pin until the other two pins have a reading.
The 10K resistor will be marked brown black orange (gold)
The 1k resistor will be marked brown black red (gold)
You can always test with a multimeter after you desolder it if you are unsure.
Some desoldered components:
Now put it together! I just did it freeform (without a PCB)
a serial plug could be salvaged from an old modem. or cut up a serial cable
You should have 3 wires (gnd, 5V and Tx) going to the dvd drive and two wires (gnd pin 5 and Rx pin 2) going to the serial port
it should look something like this (sorry about the blurry pic)
Now you also need power to the drive. I made an adapter which plugs into a spare sata power plug, and has a switch to open/close the drive. but you can also just use the Xbox 360 to power it. you might need to disconnect pin 9 (eject) to get the tray to stay partially open (http://www.hardwarebook.info/Xbox_360_DVD_Power the ? pin on that page is 3.3V)
overall my setup looks like this:
I got the dvd power plug from a printer (cut down to fit) and made the SATA power adapter from a piece of PCB filed down to fit and with tracks cut for 12v, 5v, gnd and 3.3v. careful if you don't do it right it could damage your computer power supply or dvd drive.
To get it working I used the dos version of dvdkey, but anything else would probably work.
1 eject the drive and push the tray in half way. leave pin 9 open so the tray doesn't close
2 plug in power and sata
3 turn pc on and boot into dos
4 run dosflash to get the sata address of the dvd drive (say no to any prompts and ctrl+c when you have the address)
5 plug in the serial to the drive and pc. then run: dvdkey address
Hopefully that will work. If it doesn't, check your connections, reboot and try again. you can also try unplugging sata until dos has booted.
You can try probing your circuit with a multimeter, disconnect from pc and dvd power the circuit with 5v, the output should be 5V when the input Tx is pulled low, and 0V when the input Tx is 3V.
Now all you have to do is get another drive and spoof it to replace the liteon.
Of course you can also buy all the parts mentioned, but that would ruin the fun of being able to hack the latest and greatest versions of the 360 absolutely free.
Enjoy.
quick questions, the diagram is a bit confusing along with the pictures. it appears that both the serial cable and the sata cable must be connected to the pc at the same time. which one is being used to transfer the key? why do they both have to be used? If the serial cable does indeed need to be connected to the pc, is it possible to use a serial to usb or other adapter to dump the key, for us people who dont have serial ports anymore? thanks in advance.
Post by: yaywoop on December 11, 2008, 12:49:00 AM
QUOTE(ghostbugg @ Dec 11 2008, 06:04 PM)
quick questions, the diagram is a bit confusing along with the pictures. it appears that both the serial cable and the sata cable must be connected to the pc at the same time. which one is being used to transfer the key? why do they both have to be used? If the serial cable does indeed need to be connected to the pc, is it possible to use a serial to usb or other adapter to dump the key, for us people who dont have serial ports anymore? thanks in advance.
yes to all.
the serial cable is needed to dump the key, all the other stuff is dumped over sata. the drive is also 'told' to dump the key over serial by the sata port.
you can use a usb to serial converter
QUOTE(AZImmortal @ Dec 11 2008, 02:04 PM)
Thanks for clearing that up yaywoop. Is one type better than the other?
the first one has a temperature range of -40 to 80 degrees C the second one has a temp range of 0 to 75 deg. if you had read page 15 of the datasheet you would know that!
QUOTE(Sprooty @ Dec 11 2008, 01:47 PM)
Is this better?
http://home.people.net.au/~sprooty/Pics/XB/blank5.jpg
Also, id does not matter that the "Lead to RX" and 10k resistor are on the same row? currently will still flow through the resistor? not around it..??
current will not flow through the resistor because there is a short circuit (the track). so you need to cut the track under the 10k resistor
you also need to make sure the transistor you use has a pinout of Collector Base Emitter. i would recommend yo use a bc547
Post by: jeremydammit on December 11, 2008, 01:44:00 AM
"didnt work, com port didnt respond"
tried it in i my on board serial port and with a add in card and with a serial to usb adapter cable.....HELP!....lol
Post by: dangerpaki on December 11, 2008, 02:08:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 11 2008, 02:54 AM)
any of them should work.
as for ordering max3232's have a look at page 15 on the datasheet. it tells you what each of the different types are. you want one of the '16 plastic DIP' types
I would go for the max3232epe+ or max3232cpe+
I ordered the CPE+ now waitong for it to arrive. can take a couple of weeks i heard
Post by: yaywoop on December 11, 2008, 02:24:00 AM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 11 2008, 08:20 PM)
i cant get this to work...been at it for days now..lol I have a st8050d transistor and it all seems to work fine. I took my voltmeter and checked the voltage at the rs232 with no tx signal of 3volts from couple batteries and it is a little over 5 volts and when I hit it with 3v to tx it shows around 3 volts at the rs232. that all seems ok right? my pc boots from a usb jump drive to dos. this is the order i do it in.. plug the dvd power into the xbox, sata to the pc, boot the xbox and the pc at the same time...load dos, dosflash to get drive info and I get some sort of error that i can choose yes or no at, i choose no on all the drives i have, next I type in the "dvdkey 0x01f0", hook up the serial cable and connect tx, then hit enter...dvdkey says the normal info about inquiry but no key...says an error
"didnt work, com port didnt respond"
tried it in i my on board serial port and with a add in card and with a serial to usb adapter cable.....HELP!....lol
when you apply 3v, the output should go down to 0V. so you have a problem somewhere in the cirucit.
possibly you have the collector and emitter mixed.
or the wrong resistor values.
Post by: Swift_gti on December 11, 2008, 03:29:00 AM
I used a 2N3904 transistor.. I presume that one is ok for the job ?
I'll try to get a photo when I'm back home but basically I
1) soldered the transistor directly to the DB9 connector (C to pin2 and E to pin 5)
2) soldered wire to B on the transistor with a 10k resistor and then a needle attached
3) branched off of leg C on the transistor with wire connected to a 1k resistor and then the red wire on my PC molex connector.
Does that all sound ok ?
I'm going to use my connectivity kit v1 to power the liteon drive so I don't have any other ground/power wires going anywhere..
When I connected via hyperterm and touched the needle with the +ve pole of two AA batterys I didn't get any funky chars appearing on the screen..
Many Thanks!
Post by: jeremydammit on December 11, 2008, 03:39:00 AM
QUOTE(Swift_gti @ Dec 11 2008, 03:05 AM)
I tried this the other day and couldn't get it to work when I tested it with the battery method (haven't tried it with a liteon yet)
I used a 2N3904 transistor.. I presume that one is ok for the job ?
I'll try to get a photo when I'm back home but basically I
1) soldered the transistor directly to the DB9 connector (C to pin2 and E to pin 5)
2) soldered wire to B on the transistor with a 10k resistor and then a needle attached
3) branched off of leg C on the transistor with wire connected to a 1k resistor and then the red wire on my PC molex connector.
Does that all sound ok ?
I'm going to use my connectivity kit v1 to power the liteon drive so I don't have any other ground/power wires going anywhere..
When I connected via hyperterm and touched the needle with the +ve pole of two AA batterys I didn't get any funky chars appearing on the screen..
Many Thanks!
i was using the same transistor before the one i have now, would like to know if it does the job also.
Post by: misspat on December 11, 2008, 04:20:00 AM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 11, 2008, 04:59:00 AM
Post by: Chakuza360 on December 11, 2008, 05:08:00 AM
All in all i have build everything like kobazz,its really the same.but i dont disconnected the eject wire of the tray,because i everytime disconnect the Xbox 360 DVD power connector to push the tray in half way.I use a serial to usb adapter.The power for the tray i get from my xbox.But it doesn't work for me
could somebody write the order how i have to do it if i use the xtractor reader??Maybe could kobazz say witch order he used??
Post by: yaywoop on December 11, 2008, 05:16:00 AM
Post by: Swift_gti on December 11, 2008, 06:03:00 AM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 11 2008, 02:35 PM)
I GOT IT!!!...i love you man! my issue was with the transistors i was trying...lol I got another i had lying around...mps2 222a 403 are all the numbers on it.
Hmm so you changed nothing else apart from your transistor ?
Maybe that is my problem then.. I guess the 2N3904 won't work for doing this..?
Post by: Chakuza360 on December 11, 2008, 06:48:00 AM
Post by: ghostbugg on December 11, 2008, 07:34:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 11 2008, 02:25 AM)
yes to all.
the serial cable is needed to dump the key, all the other stuff is dumped over sata. the drive is also 'told' to dump the key over serial by the sata port.
you can use a usb to serial converter
Thank you for your help. You deserve so much more credit for this then you are probably getting. Not just the diagram, but your easy to understand responses to our questions. thanks again.
Post by: yaywoop on December 11, 2008, 07:45:00 AM
QUOTE(Swift_gti @ Dec 12 2008, 12:39 AM)
Hmm so you changed nothing else apart from your transistor ?
Maybe that is my problem then.. I guess the 2N3904 won't work for doing this..?
it should work. it is an NPN transistor. you could be connecting the wrong pins.. or the transistor could be damaged.
QUOTE(ghostbugg @ Dec 12 2008, 02:10 AM)
Thank you for your help. You deserve so much more credit for this then you are probably getting. Not just the diagram, but your easy to understand responses to our questions. thanks again.
glad you appreciate it, I think i will stop answering n00b questions soon. everything has pretty much been answered.
Post by: Chakuza360 on December 11, 2008, 08:03:00 AM
Post by: Chakuza360 on December 11, 2008, 09:55:00 AM
1.turn xbox on
2.Push eject and when the drive is open push eject again and than before its closed diconnect the xbox 360 dvd power cable
3.connect com to pc and xbox
4.connect the xbox 360 dvd power cable and turn pc on
5.when the windows boot logo comes,connect the SATA cable to the xbox
6.open dos window in windows
7.connect tx
8.dvdkey xxx y
PLEASE HELP ME
Post by: kevinlekiller on December 11, 2008, 02:29:00 PM
Gonna try it out when 1.5 comes out and tell you guys how it went.
Post by: achysklic on December 11, 2008, 02:41:00 PM
Can this be used in any way to he retrieve keys on the liteon ? Thanks
Post by: lugi on December 11, 2008, 04:05:00 PM
Post by: gazik on December 12, 2008, 06:54:00 AM
i absolutely dont mean to hijack this thred, but i belive it could belong here.
I find this cheap and very easy method great. The only thing that kind of scares me is the way to power the xbox drive on. If i remember well, someone well informed stated, that xbox kernel is able to log the situation when box is powered on while the drive is not connected (which is the case if u used xbox powering the drive while dumping the key). You got flagged, which might eventually lead to ban (not confirmed, but still possible).
It might be good idea to somehow complete this wonderful method by adding the pc power to xbox drive ability. All we need is 5V->3.3V which can be done using for instance this scheme http://www.kev.nu/360/dvdshort.html. One maybe not really common part (you might not have it home) is needed - that is LM3940.
(i think it was already mentioned earlier in this thread)
The only problem is to get a power connector to dvd drive. As far as i know it is proprietary connector. Could someone post the dimensions? I was thinking that maybe this - http://www.gme.cz/cz/index.php?page=product&detail=832-023 - could be used. (Dont worry about the language. Just click on the picture below, dimensions are mentioned)
The other option is the author's option - using sata power cable. On the other hand, it is far less common than molex. The main problem is still the same - dvd power connector.
It could be solved using connectivity kit, of corse, but it would be half fun and wouldnt match the idea of this thread.
Post by: lugi on December 12, 2008, 07:38:00 AM
and the i just ended up usin a connectivity kit (yeah i added the switch) and did a rs232-ttl + pin
Post by: Kaetzchen on December 12, 2008, 07:46:00 AM
1.
http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=87706067xr0.jpg
2.
http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=64332380gt2.jpg
which picture is true?
Post by: lugi on December 12, 2008, 07:53:00 AM
Post by: Kaetzchen on December 12, 2008, 08:08:00 AM
Post by: Chakuza360 on December 12, 2008, 08:12:00 AM
One question:i soldered the r707.Should i leave it(maybe for the flash)like this or can i put everything back like it was.
Post by: lugi on December 12, 2008, 08:14:00 AM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 12, 2008, 08:25:00 AM
Post by: blueray on December 12, 2008, 10:59:00 AM
) for less than 1 €. Okay the shipping cost decuple the price as the parts self. ^^ Now i've build this cable and read out my dvd key without any problems. As needle i tok one arm of the resistorFor everyone who is also in germany and want to order the parts. Go to conrad.de and search for following partnumbers:
400378 10k resistor
400254 1k resistor
154598 npn transistor
thanks to the autor and happy christmas to all
Post by: bobbler on December 12, 2008, 11:33:00 AM
I have a PC molex on the end of a bit of veroboard, this provides the 5v and grounding.
I have the serial port on the end of a lead
Then a croc clip out the other end for the ground, and the probe I made simply from an old pen lid, a pin from a badge which is then pushed into a crimp connector. I then filled the whole thing with my hot glue gun to make sure it will not come apart or move.
Finally I housed the veroboard inside a small project plastic box to tidy it up a bit.
Post by: jeremydammit on December 12, 2008, 12:42:00 PM
I dont know what the heck has changed but it does not work now. I am trying to re-read the key i got a couple days ago with the exact setup i used and it does not work now. i used hyperterminal and I got all the little symbols, and if i put the Rx of my serial setup to the dvds Tx I also get symbols. when I test the hardware it shows 5 volts with no Tx signal and I put the 3v to the Rx of the serial and it test out to 0v. I know the last key a couple days ago was good because my xbox is now running a 47dj ....has to be a bios setting or something maybe?...maybe I will try again with every other drive disconnected.
Post by: hippodude100 on December 12, 2008, 01:03:00 PM
I noticed that you always connect both grounds
Now if you dont have an earthing ( don't know if that is the correct word) is that a problem ?
When I connect both casses (PC and xbox 360) I get shocked ...
Now if I connect both , am I safe to dump my lite-on key and not fry my motherboard and xbox 360 ?
ty
Post by: lugi on December 12, 2008, 02:07:00 PM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 12, 2008, 02:35:00 PM
Post by: hippodude100 on December 12, 2008, 02:47:00 PM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 12 2008, 09:39 PM)
Hey ppl, got a question.
I noticed that you always connect both grounds
Now if you dont have an earthing ( don't know if that is the correct word) is that a problem ?
When I connect both casses (PC and xbox 360) I get shocked ...
Now if I connect both , am I safe to dump my lite-on key and not fry my motherboard and xbox 360 ?
ty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy.gif)
That kinda the problem, I am powering he drive from the xbox itself .
And the yellow/green kabel connected to the case is not plugged in the plug since it doesn't have that pin
ty for the repley though
Post by: happyguy on December 13, 2008, 01:07:00 AM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 13, 2008, 01:23:00 AM
Post by: happyguy on December 13, 2008, 01:26:00 AM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 13 2008, 09:59 AM)
damn....read the thread man YOU CANT FLASH a liteon ......yet
sorry i should have clarified...i know you can't flash liteon yet but i'm just trying to figure out if the rxd is needed to duplicate the capabilities of those professional kits.
Post by: yaywoop on December 13, 2008, 01:38:00 AM
This post has been edited by yaywoop: Dec 13 2008, 09:40 AM
Post by: moose2b on December 13, 2008, 02:28:00 AM
Post by: happyguy on December 13, 2008, 03:02:00 AM
(IMG:http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2390/84205231cb4.th.png)
This post has been edited by happyguy: Dec 13 2008, 11:04 AM
Post by: Calendu on December 13, 2008, 04:01:00 AM
i found the necessary resistors and transistor.
but this "green" 10k resistor (marked: brown black orange (gold)) looks mysterious and it has an abrasive surface (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
(IMG:http://e.imagehost.org/t/0027/resistor.jpg)
can i use this resistors just as well?
Post by: gazik on December 13, 2008, 05:14:00 AM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 12 2008, 11:11 PM)
heres my setup once i get the bugs worked out!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/jer...it/000_0080.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/jer...it/000_0082.jpg
Could you tell me what connector was used on board to connect the dvd power cable?
Post by: lugi on December 13, 2008, 06:01:00 AM
re-did my kit so it's "plug n play" now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://freeweb.t-2.net/lugi/allinone.jpg)
Post by: moose2b on December 13, 2008, 09:12:00 AM
QUOTE(happyguy @ Dec 13 2008, 11:38 AM)
any reason why molex can't be used to provide 5v and ground? i have plenty at home and it would have less loose wires
(IMG:http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2390/84205231cb4.th.png)
were you successful with that build? i can not get the key extracted. dvdkey always tells me it didnt work but the com port works. and i cant figure out what im doing wrong.
Post by: jeremydammit on December 13, 2008, 01:28:00 PM
QUOTE(gazik @ Dec 13 2008, 04:50 AM)
Could you tell me what connector was used on board to connect the dvd power cable?
It is just a standard female molex connection. I just took sata power connector out of my PC (which has two black grounds, one yellow 12 volt, one red 5 volt and an orange 3.3 volt wire) pulled the pins out, soldered on the male molex according to the sata power setup....im not good at explaining things ...so heres a picture of my setup (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pop.gif)
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/jeremydammit/100_0204.jpg)
Post by: lugi on December 13, 2008, 03:47:00 PM
This post has been edited by lugi: Dec 13 2008, 11:47 PM
Post by: gazik on December 13, 2008, 04:37:00 PM
Post by: evans112682 on December 13, 2008, 04:49:00 PM
I want to add an LED to show a connection when the probe is making solid contact, like the CK3 probe. i modified this picture to show how i want to go about it. will this work? i want the LED to light when contact is made on the board. what voltage are you getting from the probe?
(IMG:http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh226/gevanz112682/00215102.jpg)
Post by: hippodude100 on December 13, 2008, 04:56:00 PM
My serial connection works, but I don't get the key
I tried every possible way but no succes...
If you were able to dump the key with the home made serial connection, please post a step by step tutorial how you made it happen
I have the feeling I forgot something silly
ty
Post by: evans112682 on December 13, 2008, 05:12:00 PM
(IMG:http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh226/gevanz112682/100_5184.jpg)
Post by: happyguy on December 13, 2008, 06:18:00 PM
I connect the TX side to the + of the batter and the ground to the - of the battery. Is that right?
I'm using the 2SC1815 NPN transistor
Post by: Corrupted on December 13, 2008, 07:02:00 PM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 13, 2008, 09:22:00 PM
Post by: sam2000 on December 14, 2008, 01:04:00 AM
1- is using transistor 2n3904a (NPN) right.
2- could you tell us how to provide power to the dvd drive through pc molex knowing that thers 3.3 v
in my pc power.
3- in page 6 of this thread kobazz presented detailed pictures of the rs-232 to ttl connection but he failed to
extract the key in the first time could you tell us what wrong in his first attempt.
thanks in advance
Post by: happyguy on December 14, 2008, 01:04:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 14, 2008, 03:01:00 AM
QUOTE(sam2000 @ Dec 14 2008, 07:40 PM)
THANK you yaywoop for your great job my question to you is :
1- is using transistor 2n3904a (NPN) right.
2- could you tell us how to provide power to the dvd drive through pc molex knowing that thers 3.3 v
in my pc power.
3- in page 6 of this thread kobazz presented detailed pictures of the rs-232 to ttl connection but he failed to
extract the key in the first time could you tell us what wrong in his first attempt.
thanks in advance
I will repeat: you can use any (working) signal NPN
there should be an orange wire going to your motherboard. if you can strip a bit of insulation off it (without cutting the actual wire, your PC needs that
) you can get 3.3v from there. Kobazz didn't follow the tutorial quite right. you have to have the rs232 serial disconnected from the liteon drive until you are ready to dump the key.
Post by: Corrupted on December 14, 2008, 03:13:00 AM
QUOTE
there should be an orange wire going to your motherboard. if you can strip a bit of insulation off it (without cutting the actual wire, your PC needs that ) you can get 3.3v from there.
do you have a diagram of how you have you xbox 360 dvdrom power plug hooked up to your computer?
This post has been edited by Corrupted: Dec 14 2008, 11:13 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 14, 2008, 03:14:00 AM
QUOTE(happyguy @ Dec 14 2008, 07:40 PM)
If you are using the xbox to power the drive how would you cut the power to the drive while closing so that the drive remains halfway closed? In the first post a custom power thing was made with a switch but that's not going to be possible when using the original xbox 360 power.
as previously stated. you need to remove pin 3 to stop the xbox from closing the drive. then you just push the tray half way in
QUOTE(Corrupted @ Dec 14 2008, 09:49 PM)
do you have a diagram of how you have you xbox 360 dvdrom power plug hooked up to your computer?
yeah first post. I used the sata power plug, which had 3.3V (not all of them do)
This post has been edited by yaywoop: Dec 14 2008, 11:27 AM
Post by: Corrupted on December 14, 2008, 03:20:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 14, 2008, 03:28:00 AM
QUOTE(Corrupted @ Dec 14 2008, 09:56 PM)
do i open the tray by just grounding pin 3?
when pin 3 is not connected to ground the drive will open. then you can push it in half way
Post by: evans112682 on December 14, 2008, 03:57:00 AM
I want to add an LED to show a connection when the probe is making solid contact, like the CK3 probe. i modified this picture to show how i want to go about it. will this work? i want the LED to light when contact is made on the board. what voltage are you getting from the probe?
(IMG:http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh226/gevanz112682/00215102.jpg)
Post by: yaywoop on December 14, 2008, 06:22:00 AM
QUOTE(evans112682 @ Dec 14 2008, 10:33 PM)
yaywoop what do you think about this set up? will it work?
I want to add an LED to show a connection when the probe is making solid contact, like the CK3 probe. i modified this picture to show how i want to go about it. will this work? i want the LED to light when contact is made on the board. what voltage are you getting from the probe?
(IMG:http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh226/gevanz112682/00215102.jpg)
I am not sure how much current the Tx on the drive can sink.
but 220k is far too large a resistance for the led. try 150 - 200 ohms
otherwise it should work. why do you want an led?
Post by: rammkorn on December 14, 2008, 06:29:00 AM
QUOTE(evans112682 @ Dec 14 2008, 12:33 PM)
yaywoop what do you think about this set up? will it work?
I want to add an LED to show a connection when the probe is making solid contact, like the CK3 probe. i modified this picture to show how i want to go about it. will this work? i want the LED to light when contact is made on the board. what voltage are you getting from the probe?
(IMG:http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh226/gevanz112682/00215102.jpg)
Hi,
you all have done a great job on this thread.
I don't understand a thing, if I use this scheme I need to join r707? which points are "touched" on the dvd drive?
Post by: Corrupted on December 14, 2008, 06:47:00 AM
Post by: gazik on December 14, 2008, 08:53:00 AM
Post by: kevinlekiller on December 14, 2008, 09:35:00 AM
QUOTE(rammkorn @ Dec 14 2008, 09:05 AM)
Hi,
you all have done a great job on this thread.
I don't understand a thing, if I use this scheme I need to join r707? which points are "touched" on the dvd drive?
From what I understand , if you use a needle in the hole under r707 you don't need to join it , but if you solder a wire to the connector on the back of the drive then you need to join r707.
Post by: moose2b on December 14, 2008, 10:27:00 AM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 14, 2008, 11:50:00 AM
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/jeremydammit/liteonreader.jpg)
Post by: gazik on December 14, 2008, 01:28:00 PM
could you, please, measure dimensions A,B,C
(IMG:http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/9247/98ce82188498afd33be961ftk3.jpg)
it refers to dvd power connector. I wonder if i could use something to repleace the proprietary connector.
Post by: jeremydammit on December 14, 2008, 01:42:00 PM
Post by: evans112682 on December 14, 2008, 06:59:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 14 2008, 08:58 AM)
I am not sure how much current the Tx on the drive can sink.
but 220k is far too large a resistance for the led. try 150 - 200 ohms
otherwise it should work. why do you want an led?
ok. in the drawing i typed 220k instead of ohms.
the reason for the led is demonstrated in this video -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFOcjcGGsXs
yaywoop, would the LED stay off until it touches the board? i cant make out the taces of the CK3 Probe. if anyone owns one could you take a hi res pic or draw the traces?
Post by: yaywoop on December 14, 2008, 07:08:00 PM
QUOTE(moose2b @ Dec 15 2008, 05:03 AM)
So on the drive itself all i need to do is solder together the r707 points, hook up a ground wire, and then do i hook up both 3.3v and 5v? Ive tried this for 3 days and keep getting the sorry it didnt work but your com port is working message. Just trying to figure out what im doing wrong.
you need to disconnect the rs232 converter from the drive while booting. then connect it when you are ready to read the key
Post by: bozza69 on December 14, 2008, 08:57:00 PM
ok im not a super noob at this... however i am having trouble dumping my key.
ok i have built the circuit on the 1st post of the 1st page, removed the eject pin, doing all as said throughout the 16 pages of reading =P
i get the sega 54 error, com port appears to work but key is bad.
i have tried different sata port number: and it doesnt dump the 1st 2 bin files this provesmy port number is correct.
i have tried connecting the circuit to the wrong com port, this gives me no response on com port error. and proves im using the correct com port (with correct irq ect..)
i have tried 3 other pc's in my house all with the same error, proves its not my pc.
so my thoughts are that i have the issue where my com port(s) like the -3.3v -> + 3.3v rather than 5v -> 0v..
using a terminal application all my dvd drive is tx'ing is 0000000000000000000000000000000
wich also suggestes the 3.3v issue....
any thoughts or other ideas guys?
thanks so far...
Post by: jeremydammit on December 14, 2008, 09:09:00 PM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 14 2008, 11:26 AM)
I got mine all working again...well it was all along, i was just being retarded..hahaa anyway a few have asked about leds for the tx connection and pc power so i made a cheesy (hopefully non-confusing) schematic of my setup in paint,...hope it helps and thanks again for the badass workaround
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/jeremydammit/liteonreader.jpg)
had to fix the pic...had an error
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/jeremydammit/liteonreader-1.jpg)
Post by: moose2b on December 14, 2008, 09:20:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 15 2008, 03:44 AM)
you need to disconnect the rs232 converter from the drive while booting. then connect it when you are ready to read the key
I tried that and still no luck. Dvdkey always tells me sorry it didnt work but your com port seems to work. Dvdkey just gives me cccc..... and xtractor just tells me to reboot the drive and make sure the tx is bridged and the tray half open. Ive tried everything and still cant get the key.
Post by: yaywoop on December 14, 2008, 09:51:00 PM
QUOTE(moose2b @ Dec 15 2008, 03:56 PM)
I tried that and still no luck. Dvdkey always tells me sorry it didnt work but your com port seems to work. Dvdkey just gives me cccc..... and xtractor just tells me to reboot the drive and make sure the tx is bridged and the tray half open. Ive tried everything and still cant get the key.
you either have made a mistake in your circuit or your transistor is damaged
and are you sure you are connecting to the right wires on the dvd drive?
I updated the main schematic on the first post. hopefully it is a lot clearer.
Post by: brrdatz on December 14, 2008, 11:26:00 PM
I would like to power the drive via the 360 instead of using a molex from my PSU. I understand I would need to ground everything with alligator clips, wire, or touching chassis', etc.
Anyway, back to my real question.. based on the schematics from post #1, do i still need the 1k resistor? since it won't be going to a molex, where does the other end go?
Post by: sam2000 on December 15, 2008, 12:45:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 14 2008, 12:37 PM)
I will repeat: you can use any (working) signal NPN
there should be an orange wire going to your motherboard. if you can strip a bit of insulation off it (without cutting the actual wire, your PC needs that
) you can get 3.3v from there. Kobazz didn't follow the tutorial quite right. you have to have the rs232 serial disconnected from the liteon drive until you are ready to dump the key.
thank you for you response.
but I have questions (in case power by pc molex):
1-could you tell us how do you use pin 3 and pin 4 during the whole operation?
2- the quantity of voltage that you connect to them during the operation?
3- is the operation safe could it damage the drive .
thanks in advance.
Post by: yaywoop on December 15, 2008, 01:10:00 AM
QUOTE(sam2000 @ Dec 15 2008, 07:21 PM)
thank you for you response.
but I have questions (in case power by pc molex):
1-could you tell us how do you use pin 3 and pin 4 during the whole operation?
2- the quantity of voltage that you connect to them during the operation?
3- is the operation safe could it damage the drive .
thanks in advance.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pop.gif)
pin 3 and 4 are to be left open circuit. if you ground pin 3 the drive will close, we don't want that. and pin 4 is to tell the xbox if the drive is open or closed.
its safe as long as you connect the right pins. if you mix them up you will quite possibly damage the drive. so pay close attention to the pinout.
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 15 2008, 06:02 PM)
okay, so I've sifted through most of this thread, and have a question that i don't believe has been gone over yet, if it has sorry. i will try to make this as painless as possible.
I would like to power the drive via the 360 instead of using a molex from my PSU. I understand I would need to ground everything with alligator clips, wire, or touching chassis', etc.
Anyway, back to my real question.. based on the schematics from post #1, do i still need the 1k resistor? since it won't be going to a molex, where does the other end go?
it can either go to the 5v pin on a molex connector or the 5v pin on the dvd drive power connector.
I was thinking about the grounding issue, I think the grounding provided by the sata cable its self would be adequate. that is why i didn't include it in the revised schematic image
Post by: sam2000 on December 15, 2008, 06:56:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 15 2008, 10:46 AM)
pin 3 and 4 are to be left open circuit. if you ground pin 3 the drive will close, we don't want that. and pin 4 5v pin on the dvd drive power connector.
ok again thanks but is the following true :
1-to open the drive in the first place you need to ground pin 3 right, I mean to open / close
the drive you need to ground pin 3 right, even if pin 4 is opened?? !!
2-to provide power to the dvd drive you only need to use 4 line of the pc 12v,5v,3.3v,GND and
just distribute these lines to the 12 pins connector .
3- I have an embedded VIA VT8237 sata chipset so is it fine for retrieving liteon keys.
Post by: yaywoop on December 15, 2008, 07:09:00 AM
QUOTE(sam2000 @ Dec 16 2008, 01:32 AM)
ok again thanks but is the following true :
1-to open the drive in the first place you need to ground pin 3 right, I mean to open / close
the drive you need to ground pin 3 right, even if pin 4 is opened?? !!
2-to provide power to the dvd drive you only need to use 4 line of the pc 12v,5v,3.3v,GND and
just distribute these lines to the 12 pins connector .
3- I have an embedded VIA VT8237 sata chipset so is it fine for retrieving liteon keys.
1 yes. it only has to contact momentarily. or you can open the drive manually by putting something in the manual eject hole
2 yes
3 probably
Post by: brrdatz on December 15, 2008, 09:31:00 PM
in the above image, can someone explain to me how this powers the dvd drive? or is there something that's assumed that's not in the schematic?
Post by: STICKY_BUD on December 15, 2008, 09:56:00 PM
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 15 2008, 09:07 PM)
in the above image, can someone explain to me how this powers the dvd drive? or is there something that's assumed that's not in the schematic?
with that particular schematic, the assumption is that you will use the xbox console for power.
the options are to fashion a power connector from the pc or use a connectivity kit v1/v2... read the four previous posts on this page for more about power.
This post has been edited by STICKY_BUD: Dec 16 2008, 06:06 AM
Post by: brrdatz on December 15, 2008, 10:03:00 PM
QUOTE(STICKY_BUD @ Dec 16 2008, 12:32 AM)
the assumption is that you will use your xbox console for power
Ah, so the 5V is just to power the little circuit we've created?
What if I wanted to power via the 5V molex? What would change?
Post by: apextreme on December 15, 2008, 11:38:00 PM
THANKS!
i also have a question.
say i dump the key and i wait for the iextreme 1.5, do i need anything else to flash the firmware with the new key?
thanks
Post by: jp35 on December 15, 2008, 11:47:00 PM
(IMG:http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/8982/dscn0178rj4.jpg)
Post by: yaywoop on December 16, 2008, 12:02:00 AM
QUOTE(jp35 @ Dec 16 2008, 06:23 PM)
Well here is my attempt at this project - i scraped an old vcr to get the parts i needed. For the NPN transistor it says E-C-B on the board so i hooked it up that way looking at your schematic on the first page. My contraption includes the probbe made from an empty pen and a pin on the end and for 5v i used a USB cable. Only thing i'm missing is the switch for the dvd tray and a ground going to the dvd with a croc clip here are my pics. Haven't tested it out yet cause i don't have a Liteon any feedback is appreciated
http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/2884/dscn0193gl7.jpg
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/8982/dscn0178rj4.jpg
it doesn't look quite right... have another look at the schematic in the first post.
the emitter should be connected directly to pin 5 on the serial port. you have it connected through a resistor to 5V and pin 5
the collector should connect to pin 2 and through a resistor to 5V. you have it connected to pin 2
and the base should connect through a resistor to your probe which you have done right
QUOTE(apextreme @ Dec 16 2008, 06:14 PM)
great work, im new to this stuff and i cant believe i was going to pay for this:
THANKS!
i also have a question.
say i dump the key and i wait for the iextreme 1.5, do i need anything else to flash the firmware with the new key?
thanks
I think that all you need to do is get the key, then flash the drive using only SATA. so no extra hardware is required. (I think)
Post by: brrdatz on December 16, 2008, 12:19:00 AM
In the image above, if instead of the wire labeled '5V dvd drive' going to 5V on the lite-on pcb, if that goes to a molex connector from my PSU instead, do i still need the other wire labeled 'goes to gnd dvd drive'?
Post by: jp35 on December 16, 2008, 12:40:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 16 2008, 02:38 AM)
it doesn't look quite right... have another look at the schematic in the first post.
the emitter should be connected directly to pin 5 on the serial port. you have it connected through a resistor to 5V and pin 5
the collector should connect to pin 2 and through a resistor to 5V. you have it connected to pin 2
and the base should connect through a resistor to your probe which you have done right
thanks for your reply - the NPN transistor i'm using says E-C-B on the board i took it from. your schematic has it C-B-E so i hooked up C to the middle leg which is tx and goes to pin 2 on the serial connector and no resistor is connected there basically i reversed it i'll re-hook it up your way is there any way of testing the NPN transistor with my meter so i know i have it the right way thanks
Post by: yaywoop on December 16, 2008, 06:42:00 AM
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 16 2008, 06:55 PM)
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/7334/06122008226iw4.jpg
In the image above, if instead of the wire labeled '5V dvd drive' going to 5V on the lite-on pcb, if that goes to a molex connector from my PSU instead, do i still need the other wire labeled 'goes to gnd dvd drive'?
probably not. the drive is grounded through the SATA cable. i think this should be good enough.
QUOTE(jp35 @ Dec 16 2008, 07:16 PM)
thanks for your reply - the NPN transistor i'm using says E-C-B on the board i took it from. your schematic has it C-B-E so i hooked up C to the middle leg which is tx and goes to pin 2 on the serial connector and no resistor is connected there basically i reversed it i'll re-hook it up your way is there any way of testing the NPN transistor with my meter so i know i have it the right way thanks
yeah see the first post (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
I also made a post on how to test the hardware using hyperterm earlier. http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?s=&...t&p=4389481
This post has been edited by yaywoop: Dec 16 2008, 02:45 PM
Post by: Chrushev on December 16, 2008, 01:38:00 PM
schema --> http://www.china-ate.com/PDF/AUDION/D304X.pdf
Post by: yaywoop on December 16, 2008, 06:24:00 PM
QUOTE(Chrushev @ Dec 17 2008, 08:14 AM)
Hey guys... would this here work for the NPN transistor?
schema --> http://www.china-ate.com/PDF/AUDION/D304X.pdf
being a power transistor the current gain is pretty low. you will have more success with a signal transistor.
Post by: Chrushev on December 16, 2008, 07:01:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 16 2008, 06:00 PM)
being a power transistor the current gain is pretty low. you will have more success with a signal transistor.
thanks for the feedback... im not sure how to tell a difference between the ones that would work/not work..
but here is another one i have laying around.. would this one work?
Shema --> http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/C945.shtml
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 16 2008, 06:00 PM)
being a power transistor the current gain is pretty low. you will have more success with a signal transistor.
thanks for the feedback... im not sure how to tell a difference between the ones that would work/not work..
but here is another one i have laying around.. would this one work?
Shema --> http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/C945.shtml
Post by: brrdatz on December 16, 2008, 09:50:00 PM
any tips?
Post by: yaywoop on December 16, 2008, 10:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Chrushev @ Dec 17 2008, 01:37 PM)
thanks for the feedback... im not sure how to tell a difference between the ones that would work/not work..
but here is another one i have laying around.. would this one work?
Shema --> http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/C945.shtml
yes. in fact that is the exact transistor I used. I salvaged it form a CRT screen
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 17 2008, 04:26 PM)
it's actually pretty hard to solder without a pcb. i dont have one of those alligator thingies either, so i'm trying to hold 4 things with 2 hands (yes i have soldered before). gonna buy a PCB tomorrow.
any tips?
to make it easier to solder, 'tin' the parts first by heating the wire with the iron and applying some solder. then it is a lot easier to join the parts when they already have solder on them.
if the component wires are long enough you could avoid soldering altogether and just twist the leads together. or twist them then solder.
Post by: Chrushev on December 16, 2008, 11:07:00 PM
am i just keeping it out of the drive and keeping out the whole time? (im using 360 to power the drive)
Post by: yaywoop on December 16, 2008, 11:24:00 PM
Post by: Chrushev on December 16, 2008, 11:46:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 16 2008, 11:00 PM)
if you are using the 360 to power it, you will need to open the drive then remove pin 3 (as in the image in the 1st post) by pulling it out of the socket. this will keep the drive open. then you can push the drive half way in and proceed
pin 3? i thought it was pin 9? if i pull out the power cable from the DVD rom.. and im looking straight at it to where i see all the rows of holes... the left most 2 holes (on top of each other) are empty... so do i remore the cable on the top righ 1 away from the edge.. like this picture?
is that right?
Post by: yaywoop on December 17, 2008, 02:41:00 AM
QUOTE(Chrushev @ Dec 17 2008, 06:22 PM)
pin 3? i thought it was pin 9? if i pull out the power cable from the DVD rom.. and im looking straight at it to where i see all the rows of holes... the left most 2 holes (on top of each other) are empty... so do i remore the cable on the top righ 1 away from the edge.. like this picture?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Duxa/pins.jpg
is that right?
the one you took out, pin 9 is a ground pin. you definately want to take out pin 3 (the one on the top next to the empty pins).
its my fault, i used a different pinout when i wrote the tutorial and i can't change it.
Post by: Swift_gti on December 17, 2008, 02:49:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 17 2008, 09:00 AM)
if you are using the 360 to power it, you will need to open the drive then remove pin 3 (as in the image in the 1st post) by pulling it out of the socket. this will keep the drive open. then you can push the drive half way in and proceed
What the procedure if we are using a connectivity kit to power the drive?
I understand that a switch has to be added onto one of the wires (the one for Pin 3 i presume ?)
Do we just open the drive then break the circuit using a switch on the wire to pin 3 or is it something different ?
Thanks!
Post by: fugmenot on December 17, 2008, 05:15:00 AM
Is there any hope that this one will work ?
http://img3.imagebanana.com/view/95cg70/CIMG1348.JPG
Was the 1st Time Soldering for me .
Post by: yaywoop on December 17, 2008, 06:45:00 AM
QUOTE(fugmenot @ Dec 17 2008, 11:51 PM)
ok I tried it
Is there any hope that this one will work ?
http://img3.imagebanana.com/view/95cg70/CIMG1348.JPG
Was the 1st Time Soldering for me .
fair enough. um are any pins shorted together on the serial port or transistor? its hard to tell from the pic.
otherwise it should work.
Post by: fugmenot on December 17, 2008, 07:05:00 AM
Does the cable have to be "in" the pin or is it enough if ther s solder in it ?
Pretty hard to express if you aren t a native speaker
Thanks for your quick answer !
Post by: sam2000 on December 17, 2008, 08:49:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 17 2008, 04:21 PM)
fair enough. um are any pins shorted together on the serial port or transistor? its hard to tell from the pic.
otherwise it should work.
okay yaywoop but theres some confusion in your pictures:
1-the serial in the drawn picture is different than the the one in the taken photos
2 and 5 is opposite in both of them(the direction).
2- you used a capacitor (150 nf ) presumably why and where to use it.
3- in one of the photos you used 3 wires connected to the serial in the others you used 2 wires.
thanks
Post by: yaywoop on December 17, 2008, 09:11:00 AM
QUOTE(sam2000 @ Dec 18 2008, 03:25 AM)
okay yaywoop but theres some confusion in your pictures:
1-the serial in the drawn picture is different than the the one in the taken photos
2 and 5 is opposite in both of them(the direction).
2- you used a capacitor (150 nf ) presumably why and where to use it.
3- in one of the photos you used 3 wires connected to the serial in the others you used 2 wires.
thanks
the first image has the serial port as seen from the back.. it has the same pins used as in the other pictures.
the capacitor and the 3 wire thing where for a slightly different circuit I built first, which outputs negative 3V and positive 3V to the serial port using the negative voltage from the Tx pin on the serial port. I ditched it for the tutorial because it isn't needed. most (if not all) serial ports interpret 0V as a signal, so the negative voltage isn't needed.
basically you can just ignore it, i only had that image to illustrate my setup
QUOTE(fugmenot @ Dec 18 2008, 01:41 AM)
On the transistor not and on the serial port I ll tried my best to avoid it.
Does the cable have to be "in" the pin or is it enough if ther s solder in it ?
Pretty hard to express if you aren t a native speaker
Thanks for your quick answer !
not sure what you mean.. as long as there is electrical contact it should work. make sure there isn't any solder between the pins though!
Post by: fugmenot on December 17, 2008, 11:44:00 AM
I' ll just try tomorrow wether it works.
Do I have to ground s.th. or is it enough to connect both cases with some crocodilbraces ?
Post by: brrdatz on December 17, 2008, 12:52:00 PM
Post by: brrdatz on December 17, 2008, 01:56:00 PM
Post by: moose2b on December 17, 2008, 03:10:00 PM
Post by: Chrushev on December 17, 2008, 05:33:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 17 2008, 02:17 AM)
the one you took out, pin 9 is a ground pin. you definately want to take out pin 3 (the one on the top next to the empty pins).
its my fault, i used a different pinout when i wrote the tutorial and i can't change it.
awesome... it worked... I think... it did say "Seems like a good key" and gave me a key..
is there any way to verify that its the right key? like.. is there any way of knowing if its not the right key?
here is my final setup
Post by: brrdatz on December 17, 2008, 06:04:00 PM
any one know if this'll work? though i'd get some type of feedback before killing my comp
Post by: ashegam on December 17, 2008, 06:16:00 PM
QUOTE(Chrushev @ Dec 17 2008, 07:09 PM)
is there any way to verify that its the right key? like.. is there any way of knowing if its not the right key?
Best way to verify is to run the test a couple of more times. If you get the same key again and again, you know it worked just fine.
Post by: Chrushev on December 17, 2008, 06:23:00 PM
QUOTE(ashegam @ Dec 17 2008, 05:52 PM)
Best way to verify is to run the test a couple of more times. If you get the same key again and again, you know it worked just fine.
so i already packed the xbox back up until the 24th... i dont really feel like taking it all apart again... what happens if the key is wrong and i try flashing with it? will i perma screw the xbox?
Post by: ashegam on December 17, 2008, 06:37:00 PM
QUOTE(Chrushev @ Dec 17 2008, 07:59 PM)
so i already packed the xbox back up until the 24th... i dont really feel like taking it all apart again... what happens if the key is wrong and i try flashing with it? will i perma screw the xbox?
I haven't learned that in my reading en devours yet, so I'll leave that to the more senior posters.
Post by: dokworm on December 17, 2008, 07:35:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 17, 2008, 07:36:00 PM
QUOTE(Chrushev @ Dec 18 2008, 12:59 PM)
so i already packed the xbox back up until the 24th... i dont really feel like taking it all apart again... what happens if the key is wrong and i try flashing with it? will i perma screw the xbox?
yes... its always a good idea to read it a few times to verify you get the same key.
just read it again when you open it up to flash.
Post by: jeremydammit on December 17, 2008, 08:05:00 PM
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 17 2008, 05:40 PM)
any one know if this'll work? though i'd get some type of feedback before killing my comp
looks perfect other than you want to ground pin 5/emitter to pc case and xbox case
QUOTE(Chrushev @ Dec 17 2008, 05:59 PM)
so i already packed the xbox back up until the 24th... i dont really feel like taking it all apart again... what happens if the key is wrong and i try flashing with it? will i perma screw the xbox?
if you flash the wrong key you can always re-flash it again. this is only true because you are not flashing the original Lite-on DVD drive. You will have the lite-on as a back up for the key retrieval. although it doesnt make sense you dont just try to read the key again since you said the xbox was packed up already. how will you put the new drive in?
Post by: Chrushev on December 17, 2008, 08:12:00 PM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 17 2008, 07:41 PM)
looks perfect other than you want to ground pin 5/emitter to pc case and xbox case
if you flash the wrong key you can always re-flash it again. this is only true because you are not flashing the original Lite-on DVD drive. You will have the lite-on as a back up for the key retrieval. although it doesnt make sense you dont just try to read the key again since you said the xbox was packed up already. how will you put the new drive in?
on the 24th there will be a way to flash the liteon drive... so im not gonna be replacing the drive..
Post by: jeremydammit on December 17, 2008, 08:39:00 PM
Post by: mcraenz on December 17, 2008, 09:52:00 PM
Post by: moose2b on December 17, 2008, 10:52:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 17, 2008, 11:34:00 PM
QUOTE(moose2b @ Dec 18 2008, 05:28 PM)
This makes no sense. Im doing exactly the same thing as everyone else and it still wont give up the key.
obviously you are doing something different.
are you sure you are following the right order, put drive half way in, power on pc, plug in sata, power on drive, connect serial to drive, dump key.
there could also be a mistake in your circuit. have you tested it?
Post by: moose2b on December 17, 2008, 11:50:00 PM
ive looked over the build time and time again everything is right. ive tried on 2 different computers thinking it was the com port. both did the same thing.
Post by: yaywoop on December 18, 2008, 12:15:00 AM
once again, have you tested the circuit?
Post by: moose2b on December 18, 2008, 12:48:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 18, 2008, 05:01:00 AM
QUOTE(moose2b @ Dec 18 2008, 07:24 PM)
Tested it how? I tried with realterm and all i got with it was 0000000000. I didnt try the hyperterm though just realterm.
hmm sounds like your hardware is working... are the zeros only coming when you touch the probe to 5V? if you rub the probe against 5V you should get something other than zeros
are you touching the probe to the right spot on the drive?
what software are you using to read the key?
what happens exactly when you try to read the key?
Post by: sam2000 on December 18, 2008, 08:51:00 AM
1- is ground for 12v,5v,3.3v the same , I mean one gnd line is enough for them?
Post by: moose2b on December 18, 2008, 09:37:00 AM
Post by: moctezuma_99 on December 18, 2008, 11:29:00 AM
1. Turn on xbox 2. Eject tray. 3. take out pin 3 from the dvd plug. 4. manually push tray halfway in. 5-turn off xbox 6-boot into dos. 7- Hook up sata from pci card to dvd drive. 8-turn on xbox. 9- connect to TX pin on pcb board 10- run dvdkey 11- And SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU YAYWOOP. Cant believe I was going to pay somebody to do it for me.
Post by: JBmtk on December 18, 2008, 11:33:00 AM
QUOTE(sam2000 @ Dec 15 2008, 09:32 AM)
ok again thanks but is the following true :
1-to open the drive in the first place you need to ground pin 3 right, I mean to open / close
the drive you need to ground pin 3 right, even if pin 4 is opened?? !!
2-to provide power to the dvd drive you only need to use 4 line of the pc 12v,5v,3.3v,GND and
just distribute these lines to the 12 pins connector .
3- I have an embedded VIA VT8237 sata chipset so is it fine for retrieving liteon keys.
I think yaywoop should have mentioned to just use your PC's 5V power instead of using the DVDs
^^that way is a lot easier than using your 360 to power because you can just unplug the DVD power cable when getting the tray to stay half open..plus it is safer with and more reliable.
in short, use an alligator clip or wrap a wire around the 5V pin in the molex connector coming from your PC.
Post by: freddy_krueger on December 18, 2008, 01:08:00 PM
i've just found a french website where a man modify an USBtoRS232 converter to become an USB to TTL converter ,only by cut wires and change two or three solders
must see !!! give me your opinion , maybe the lowest cost and easiest way to spoof liteon
take a look at this http://www.equinoxefr.org/post/2007/01/01/modifier-un-convertisseur-usbrs232-en-usbttl/
and translate by google
http://translate.google.fr/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.equinoxefr.org%2Fpost%2F2007%2F01%2F01%2Fmodifier-un-convertisseur-usbrs232-en-usbttl%2F&sl=fr&tl=en&hl=fr&ie=UTF-8
Post by: dannyboy_676 on December 18, 2008, 01:58:00 PM
I have a ck v2, a RS232 to TTL Convertor Cable kit (MAX3232), a via6321 card and a sata cable.
So what else do I need for solderless modding? I guess this should be enough, correct me if im wrong.
So pls any clarification on this.
Secondly, what should I do now? Do I have to insert the TxD cable of the converter in the most left hole of the CK cable which connects with the drive? What do I have to do with the other cables (CTS, RTS, GND, VCC and TXD) ?
I believe im almost there, but need some things to know for sure before Im really gonna do something.
PS I liked to post a picture, but dont know how. Can someone clarify that?
Post by: yaywoop on December 18, 2008, 04:38:00 PM
QUOTE(sam2000 @ Dec 19 2008, 03:27 AM)
Hello MR. yaywoop can answer me:
1- is ground for 12v,5v,3.3v the same , I mean one gnd line is enough for them?
yes
QUOTE(moose2b @ Dec 19 2008, 04:13 AM)
Well i never get 0101 like im supposed to. i either get all 0000 or i get letters and numbers. I have tried dvdkey, dvdkey32, xtractor360. ddvdkey grabs the other 2 files and then says sorry it didnt work sega:54 but your com port seems to work anyways. dvdkey32 grabs the other 2 files and gives me cccc cccc ... for the key. and xtractor360 just tells me to restart the drive and make sure the tx is bridged and the tray half open.
yeah but does touching the probe to 5V CAUSE the 0000's to appear in realterm? can you try it in hyperterm?
QUOTE(moctezuma_99 @ Dec 19 2008, 06:05 AM)
Cant believe that I actually got this thing to work. THANK YOU yaywoop. The only part I was having trouble with was getting the dvd tray to stay half-open because in some parts you say pin 9 but then you say pin three, but figured it out. Got the key in my first try, the checked it again. Followed the schematic exactly and the instructions.
1. Turn on xbox 2. Eject tray. 3. take out pin 3 from the dvd plug. 4. manually push tray halfway in. 5-turn off xbox 6-boot into dos. 7- Hook up sata from pci card to dvd drive. 8-turn on xbox. 9- connect to TX pin on pcb board 10- run dvdkey 11- And SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU YAYWOOP. Cant believe I was going to pay somebody to do it for me.
well done, glad to hear it worked for you first time
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Dec 19 2008, 06:09 AM)
I think yaywoop should have mentioned to just use your PC's 5V power instead of using the DVDs
^^that way is a lot easier than using your 360 to power because you can just unplug the DVD power cable when getting the tray to stay half open..plus it is safer with and more reliable.
in short, use an alligator clip or wrap a wire around the 5V pin in the molex connector coming from your PC.
yeah, unfortunately I can't edit the first post, but i can change the images as they are hosted offsite. if you refresh the first page you will see the schematic shows 5V connected to a pc molex connector. i think that is the easiest place to source 5V.
QUOTE(freddy_krueger @ Dec 19 2008, 07:44 AM)
Hi , guys
i've just found a french website where a man modify an USBtoRS232 converter to become an USB to TTL converter ,only by cut wires and change two or three solders
must see !!! give me your opinion , maybe the lowest cost and easiest way to spoof liteon
take a look at this http://www.equinoxef...s232-en-usbttl/
and translate by google
http://translate.goo...t...fr&ie=UTF-8
yeah i was thinking about the same thing the other day. basically usb/rs232 converters contain 2 chips. the first one connects to usb and does the actual converting to rs232 signaling. it works at TTL levels. the second chip is a max232 equivalent, which gets the TTL levels up to rs232 levels.
so it is quite easy to tap in to the TTL levels if you know which pin (by finding a datasheet for either chip)
QUOTE(dannyboy_676 @ Dec 19 2008, 08:34 AM)
Hello all,
I have a ck v2, a RS232 to TTL Convertor Cable kit (MAX3232), a via6321 card and a sata cable.
So what else do I need for solderless modding? I guess this should be enough, correct me if im wrong.
So pls any clarification on this.
Secondly, what should I do now? Do I have to insert the TxD cable of the converter in the most left hole of the CK cable which connects with the drive? What do I have to do with the other cables (CTS, RTS, GND, VCC and TXD) ?
I believe im almost there, but need some things to know for sure before Im really gonna do something.
PS I liked to post a picture, but dont know how. Can someone clarify that?
to do 'solderless' dumping you need a probe, like a pin soldered to a wire, or a multimeter probe. you solder it to either RxD or Txd, depending on how your adapter is labeled...
Vcc needs to be connected to 3.3V and gnd needs to be connected to ground (on the dvd drive, see first post)
wow thats a lot of replies
Post by: dannyboy_676 on December 18, 2008, 05:15:00 PM
the Rx to pin 12:
http://www.eurasia.nu/images/submitted/soulheaven_liteon_spoof_tutorial/modifckforliteon2se4-medium.jpg
I thought just sticking a needle (without soldering it on a wire (which wire????) ) in the hole R707 was enough. Or using a screwdriver to bridge the 2 points above R707.
Im confused cause of the different explanations of so many people.
Post by: brrdatz on December 18, 2008, 05:26:00 PM
okay, the one i did yesterday fell and went to crap. decided to start over.
this is my final product, and I think it should work. comments?
also, in exhibit a, there's only 1 pin to the molex, is this fine? i dont think i've ever seen this done before, and i dont wanna blow my psu.
in exhibit b, the big twisted wire to the right, is that safe? i dont think it is lol.. should i cover the whole in thing in solder?
Post by: moctezuma_99 on December 18, 2008, 05:58:00 PM
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 19 2008, 02:02 AM)
okay, the one i did yesterday fell and went to crap. decided to start over.
this is my final product, and I think it should work. comments?
also, in exhibit a, there's only 1 pin to the molex, is this fine? i dont think i've ever seen this done before, and i dont wanna blow my psu.
in exhibit b, the big twisted wire to the right, is that safe? i dont think it is lol.. should i cover the whole in thing in solder?
The one pin to the molex is fine all you need is just the 5v. Nothing will happen to your psu. I did it the same way.
Twisting the wires is fine, I did mine only twisting wires as I really don't know how to solder.
Post by: jp35 on December 18, 2008, 10:09:00 PM
Post by: brrdatz on December 18, 2008, 11:48:00 PM
also, do i need to connect the grounds to anything for now? just wanna test the circuit, don't even have the xbox yet lol
Post by: CanadaTech on December 19, 2008, 03:31:00 PM
Post by: kevinlekiller on December 19, 2008, 04:26:00 PM
Post by: CanadaTech on December 19, 2008, 06:41:00 PM
QUOTE(kevinlekiller @ Dec 19 2008, 07:02 PM)
Worked great with a Nforce 2 ( chaintech 7njl6 mobo ). I did it 2 times to make sure it would get the same key ( it did ).
Could you explain what you did to get it working?
Post by: jriker1 on December 19, 2008, 08:12:00 PM
Thanks.
JR
Post by: kevinlekiller on December 19, 2008, 08:13:00 PM
QUOTE(CanadaTech @ Dec 19 2008, 09:17 PM)
Could you explain what you did to get it working?
I made a windows 98se bootdisk , put dvdkey 16 bit and dosflash 16 bit on it.
Shut off PC , unplugged the ide cables for my hard drive and dvd rom.
Plugged in SATA to xbox dvd rom and PC port 1 , plugged in the power cable with pin 3 wire taken out and taped off, plugged it in the xbox.
Plugged the 5v from the serial connector in a molex on the pc psu.
Put the aligator clip to the ground.
Booted PC , went in bios to check that boot floppy disk and serial ports were on.
Turned off PC.
Opened the xbox dvd rom tray with a small scredriver , pushed it in 1/2 way.
Powered on xbox with the controller, then took out the batteries ( or the controller stays on ).
Powered on the PC , booted into dos.
Typed dosflash , wrote n at the first question , pressed control-c at the second. Dosflash showed 4. 0x90F0 = the lite-on drive.
Plugged Serial into the top port of Pc's mobo.
Typed dvdkey 90F0 ( didn't press enter ).
Put in the needle ( I used a sewing needle ) into the hole beside r707.
Pressed enter on the keyboard.
dvdkey wrote the dvd drive info and wrote 3 bin files to the floppy ( inquiry.bin key.bin not sure of the other, can't remember from the top of my head ).
Then I shut off the PC and xbox , unplugged the serial connector and pushed in the drive , then started back with another floppy disk. Then I opened the key.bin file in a hex editor for both diskettes to make sure it was the same.
Post by: celinelust on December 19, 2008, 10:52:00 PM
This is not detailed enough, wish the first post gets reedited so ppl don't have to search through the 24+ pages.
Thanks for the great article
Post by: kevinlekiller on December 19, 2008, 10:55:00 PM
Post by: CrAckJAck on December 20, 2008, 04:26:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 20, 2008, 05:14:00 AM
nicejob crackjack. where did you get the power adapter?
Post by: allbon on December 20, 2008, 06:31:00 AM
- try Maximus Xtractor software under Windows (along with portIO32 drivers) instead of dvdkey under DOS
Its on Windows, no need of bootable floppy/usb ; it dumps the key instantly, no need to wait +20s like dvdkey ; and it has a much smoother SATA adress detection than dosflash. Repeat it 10x to see if key is always the same.
- try with DVD drive fully ejected (instead of drive fully closed), then pin 3/9 removed and caddy put half way in manually.
- if you replaced the 1kOhm resistor with a bigger one (5kOhm or more), if hyperterminal or putty shows no response to your test (rubbing the needle on +5V) then you probably need to use Molex +12V as power as +5V is not sufficient. But in any case perform the rubbing Tx needle test only on +5V connector, not the +12V.
Post by: brandogg on December 20, 2008, 08:35:00 AM
QUOTE(CrAckJAck @ Dec 20 2008, 07:02 AM)
My Extractor
Thanks dude, that's EXACTLY what I plan on doing.
Post by: jriker1 on December 20, 2008, 09:52:00 AM
QUOTE(CrAckJAck @ Dec 20 2008, 01:02 PM)
My Extractor
Correct me if I'm wrong, this isn't of the same design as this post is about is it? I see an IC chip in your design.
JR
QUOTE(ashegam @ Dec 20 2008, 05:49 PM)
What's the name of that red looking screwdriver?
Can you purchase one at the local hardware store?Just my two cents, however keep in mind the more elaborate you make your solution and the more you have to buy, the less beneficial it is as opposed to just buying one already built for you with lots more functionality already on it. Unless of course this is something you are doing as a project and don't care about cost as much as experience.
JR
Post by: nbitzis on December 20, 2008, 10:02:00 AM
nice job
Post by: brandogg on December 20, 2008, 11:53:00 AM
Edit - actually, could I just get a breadboard (trying to make it look fancy here, and sturdy), a MAX3232 chip, a few .1uf capacitors, a probe/spear piece, and a USB cable, and go that route? No need to actually use a serial port/cable if I'm going to go to USB anyway, right?
Post by: jeremydammit on December 20, 2008, 01:58:00 PM
Post by: brandogg on December 20, 2008, 11:00:00 PM
Post by: Nuja on December 21, 2008, 05:02:00 AM
thx for the tuto.
Can someone explain me in detail how to add power in the circuit to not use the xbox to start it ? (MS can detects xbox that boot without drive plugged right ?)
and also details for the switch to open/close ?
Can I use a molex (classic one) to power the drive ? if yes how ?
Post by: sam2000 on December 21, 2008, 08:45:00 AM
I've made the circuit but when I test it I get nothing in the hyper terminal so here is the circumstances:
1. I have asrock board with via chipset.
2. I used the pc power Molex 5v,GND.
3. its all connected but with no symbols or any response ??????!!??
Is there any way to verify its working using other methods
Post by: dangerpaki on December 21, 2008, 08:49:00 AM
it is a rs232
cable which has a ICL3217ECA chip in it.datasheet http://pdf1.alldatas...ICL3217ECA.html
now of course i would like to convert this thing so i can use it to read my liteon key. but i am a freaking noob at this stuff. i know something but this thing looks way complicated
so could someone please help me out with this???of course a picture says more than words here we are
now with a little luck if i can find the wires for Rx voltage and gnd on this thing. than i should get it to work.. right??? connect Rx from the chip to the needle and give this thing power through the voltage line and have it grounded. now easy talking but probably not that easy to do.
So i am hoping for some help here.
EDIT: some pics from the datasheet:
If someone could explain me where i need to connect the voltage, gnd and probe on the chip, then i would be very greatful. i will try to trace the pins of the chip then and see where i need to connect all that stuff to get it working.
Post by: kevinlekiller on December 21, 2008, 09:36:00 AM
QUOTE(evans112682 @ Dec 20 2008, 09:47 PM)
Great tut. i just finished building my power kit when i read this, so i added this and here are my pics....
"NOS" button :
That thing is awesome man!
Post by: Nuja on December 21, 2008, 01:32:00 PM
if i use the male part of this =>
linked to the j1d1 to power the drive from the circuit using my computer power, will it work ?
Post by: JBmtk on December 21, 2008, 03:52:00 PM
I thought my computer had a serial port, but it does not. What are my options?
1) use a serial->parallel converter?
2)USB?
Thanks
Post by: yaywoop on December 21, 2008, 05:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Nuja @ Dec 22 2008, 08:08 AM)
Hi,
if i use the male part of this =>
linked to the j1d1 to power the drive from the circuit using my computer power, will it work ?
yeah looks like the grey wire is 3.3V
@JBmtk, serial->parallel converter won't work (do they even exist?)
use a usb->RS232 serial converter like this one http://www.dealextre...ils.dx/sku.5859
Post by: PRMUnixOs on December 21, 2008, 10:29:00 PM
is where can find the 3.3 from my power supply? thnx advise!
Post by: Nuja on December 21, 2008, 11:25:00 PM
QUOTE(PRMUnixOs @ Dec 22 2008, 07:05 AM)
hi all!! im having this problem i try to connect the molex i test 12v 5v anthe 3.3 dosnt work for me y try to search the pinout of the molex but the problem is i dont have 3.3v it looks similar to this photo
is where can find the 3.3 from my power supply? thnx advise!
if im not wrong the 3.3v wire is on sata cable from the psu (u need to figure out if u got sata cables in your psu: 5 wires: 2 black, one red, one yellow and one grey or other color.
-----
anyone know where I can find male j1d1 connector ?
Post by: JBmtk on December 22, 2008, 12:38:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 18 2008, 02:10 AM)
obviously you are doing something different.
are you sure you are following the right order, put drive half way in, power on pc, plug in sata, power on drive, connect serial to drive, dump key.
there could also be a mistake in your circuit. have you tested it?
OK, I know this has been asked a lot of times, but I am getting the same thing as Moose, except I don't get any numbers/letters when I use hyperterminal to test Rx on the dvd drive. If I am powering the DVD drive off of the 360, do you reboot the 360 after you put the drive half way in or leave it on during the whole process? I think you are inferring that you power down the 360 when you are done with the tray alignement, but forgot to mention it above.
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 21 2008, 08:08 PM)
@JBmtk, serial->parallel converter won't work (do they even exist?)
yes, http://i257.photobuc...82/100_5184.jpg
but I managed to find my ASUS motherboard's onboard serial pins. After a few hours I realized that the pin numbers did not go straight across, but scattered between the two columns.
Post by: mcraenz on December 22, 2008, 01:07:00 AM
Post by: brrdatz on December 22, 2008, 01:18:00 PM
The goodness:
(IMG:http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/5318/crapnt2.jpg)
Basically still the same, other then I ripped a probe from an old/broken multimeter and attached it.
Let me just make sure I get the basic setup correct (in no particular order)
- The 5V from the 'dumper' goes to a molex plug on my psu
- gndxbox and gndcase go to the xbox and case chassis' (clip/tape/etc)
- the probe will go into the hole as specified in OP (can't remember what hole off-hand)
- sata from xbox drive goes to sata port in computer
- dvd drive is powered by xbox, the 5v molex is for the circuit and acts as another ground
Is this correct? please let me know if there's any errors.
Also, I'm supposed to remove pin3 from the xbox dvd power cable, right? when exactly do i do this? after, before, during ejecting?
did i miss anything? the more specific the better
This post has been edited by brrdatz: Dec 22 2008, 09:22 PM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 22, 2008, 01:38:00 PM
Post by: brrdatz on December 22, 2008, 01:54:00 PM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 22 2008, 04:14 PM)
i manually eject the drive since its open already...look at the way the drive opens and you will see you can manually open the thing
so i dont need to remove pin 3?
Post by: JBmtk on December 22, 2008, 03:37:00 PM
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 22 2008, 04:30 PM)
so i dont need to remove pin 3?
If you are powering the dvd drive from your 360, then you eject the dvd with all the cables in...and then you pull out the 3rd wire (while the 360 is on) and then you push the tray in half-way.
From your setup, it looks like you are indeed powering your dvd drive from your 360.
Ok, hopefully I can get this sorted out eventually. In Realterm, whenever I connect Rx to the 1K resistor/collector node, I get a flashing "RXD" for about a sec and then a solid red box next to "BREAK". The output is usually a few 00s or hex characters. If I pulsate it, then I get get huge chunks of 00s and letters and then a huge red box around "ERROR". *This is without TX connected****
I am using 5v from my PC to power circuit and using 360 to power drive. I am using the 2N2222 transistor and I double checked circuit a lot.
I can read inquiry and stuff, but not key....return saga error and saying COM port seems OK.
I performed the send/receive test (simply by connecting tx-rx) and that passed.
With ground disconnected (pin 5) I get same results.
Post by: allbon on December 22, 2008, 04:46:00 PM
Power on Xbox with all wires.
Eject DVD
Pull the 110V/220V power cable of your Xbox power supply (dont use On/Off button or tray will close!). Xbox goes off while drive remains ejected.
Now remove the wire 3/9 safely
Put tray half way in.
Power on Xbox and voila the DVD remains half opened.
And if you want to save A LOT of time, try to use Maximus Xtractor Reader program, runs on Windows and dumps the key instantly.
This post has been edited by allbon: Dec 23 2008, 12:58 AM
Post by: brrdatz on December 22, 2008, 05:48:00 PM
Post by: apextreme on December 22, 2008, 06:29:00 PM
QUOTE(allbon @ Dec 23 2008, 01:22 AM)
DONT pull wires from the Xbox DVD power cable if console is on you crazy
Power on Xbox with all wires.
Eject DVD
Pull the 110V/220V power cable of your Xbox power supply (dont use On/Off button or tray will close!). Xbox goes off while drive remains ejected.
Now remove the wire 3/9 safely
Put tray half way in.
Power on Xbox and voila the DVD remains half opened.
And if you want to save A LOT of time, try to use Maximus Xtractor Reader program, runs on Windows and dumps the key instantly.
why remove the 3 and 9 wires?
it should stay in its position
Post by: yaywoop on December 22, 2008, 07:13:00 PM
you can remove pin 3 while the xbox is on, which will cause the drive to open if it is not already open. then you can push it in half way.
@JBmtk
what procedure are you using?
like is the Tx on the drive connected while you turn it on? it shouldn't be
also try booting the computer first, then powering up the drive with sata connected. then connect Tx and run the software.
Post by: JBmtk on December 22, 2008, 07:41:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 22 2008, 09:49 PM)
you ONLY remove pin 3 (as seen in the pinout in the first image)
you can remove pin 3 while the xbox is on, which will cause the drive to open if it is not already open. then you can push it in half way.
@JBmtk
what procedure are you using?
like is the Tx on the drive connected while you turn it on? it shouldn't be
also try booting the computer first, then powering up the drive with sata connected. then connect Tx and run the software.
no, the TX is the last thing I connect. This is my detail procedure:
1) Boot 360 tray open
2) Unplug pin 3, push in half way (while 360 on)
3) power down 360
4) power on PC and 360 same time and connect SATA cable to 360 dvd drive from PC and serial pins (2 and 5) to motherboard COM1
5)run software --success in getting info for spoofing drive
6) connect TX cable
7) hit enter after last dialog and it returns could not get key
Is there no way to test if this is working from PC using realterm? I think my problem is the circuit because every time I connect RX into the circuit, realterm tells me that RX is blocked and the serial port shuts down so to speak. Maybe that is supposed to happen...I don't know....The RX block blinks once and then quits until I reconnect or rub it across the near 1K end. I'm gonna swtich out the wires, maybe the wire gauge is too low and causing unwanted resistance.
I have pretty much the same problem as this guy: http://forums.xbox-s...owtopic=666313#
Post by: jeremydammit on December 22, 2008, 09:46:00 PM
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 22 2008, 01:30 PM)
so i dont need to remove pin 3?
nope....there is no good reason to pull any pin out of the xbox molex....there is a place in every xbox drive to open it from the bottom. Since we need to have the bottom accessible to put our probe on the Tx of the drive, you can use the manual eject. Here are some pics
Post by: sam2000 on December 23, 2008, 12:40:00 AM
QUOTE(brrdatz @ Dec 23 2008, 03:24 AM)
hyperterminal test is not working (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) not getting anything. i'm trying to rub it on a molex (red plug)
yeah can any one answer this question ?
what does it mean if your test failed ?
what are alternatives and the right steps for testing ?
This post has been edited by sam2000: Dec 23 2008, 08:42 AM
Post by: snmp on December 23, 2008, 02:03:00 AM
i push eject button push on till xbox grabs tray and trys to pull in, then it will attempt to push out again catch it hold it and giv it a nudge forward it will remain in the eject state.
now remove the dvd pwr supply from bak of dvd, this is not dangerous, and will not harm the xbox, done it on many boxes.
now u can dump ur key
that simpl
Post by: jeremydammit on December 23, 2008, 07:56:00 AM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 23, 2008, 09:01:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on December 23, 2008, 09:41:00 AM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 23 2008, 04:22 PM)
nope....there is no good reason to pull any pin out of the xbox molex....there is a place in every xbox drive to open it from the bottom. Since we need to have the bottom accessible to put our probe on the Tx of the drive, you can use the manual eject. Here are some pics
have you tested this? afaik pin 3 needs to be high or left open for key dumping to work. or is it just that the drive needs to be open. I can't be stuffed pulling my liteon out of my xbox again. I just put it back in after flashing
btw its easy to pull the pins out without damaging it. if you look closely at the connector you will see little plastic tabs that hold the pins in. if you use a small screw driver to lift up the plastic tab, the pin will slide out
Post by: hippodude100 on December 23, 2008, 11:15:00 AM
Restarted te drive between each try.
still no succes, when I try to use the hyperterminal it sais: Cannot open com port 1 ...
don't know if that is the problem.
And I get my 5 V from the dvd drive, is that a reason why it fails ?
To get it in open state I power up and manuele open the dvd drive, is this perhaps wrong ?
ty
Post by: hippodude100 on December 23, 2008, 12:05:00 PM
I ge this each time I power on the xbox .
but for the rest I don't get anything :s
Post by: JBmtk on December 23, 2008, 12:37:00 PM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 23 2008, 02:41 PM)
and realterm gives me a 00 and te break ligt turn on for a sec.
I ge this each time I power on the xbox .
but for the rest I don't get anything :s
same, I really don't know if that is a good sign or bad....
although you should get RX to light up for a split sec as well
try pulsating RX by taking it in and out of your cirucit and you should see more random letters and zeros
Post by: SniperKilla on December 23, 2008, 01:53:00 PM
Post by: hippodude100 on December 23, 2008, 01:57:00 PM
Post by: Troy-C on December 23, 2008, 02:01:00 PM
As a transistor I´ve bought BC337-25 from Philips, the datasheet is also at my webspace. Then I wanted to test the whole thing via PC and hyperterminal or realterm. But when i connect cable to Com1 and +5V to PC PSU and rub the probe (spear) on the same +5V, there´s no reaction. Can somebody give an advice how to set hyperterm or realterm?? I don´t know if it´s in software or the cable, but via the scheme it is really easy to make. Btw. sorry for my bad english. Thx a lot.
This post has been edited by Troy-C: Dec 23 2008, 10:03 PM
Post by: jeremydammit on December 23, 2008, 02:04:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 23 2008, 09:17 AM)
have you tested this? afaik pin 3 needs to be high or left open for key dumping to work. or is it just that the drive needs to be open. I can't be stuffed pulling my liteon out of my xbox again. I just put it back in after flashing
btw its easy to pull the pins out without damaging it. if you look closely at the connector you will see little plastic tabs that hold the pins in. if you use a small screw driver to lift up the plastic tab, the pin will slide out
yes I tested it...works great!...done it to 3 liteons and a benq
Post by: snmp on December 23, 2008, 04:29:00 PM
Post by: DavGerm4 on December 23, 2008, 05:40:00 PM
Post by: JPaul2442 on December 23, 2008, 06:57:00 PM
BTW: I plan on going by this tutorial to flash my lite on
http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/iriez/N00B_LiteO...sh_with_VIA.pdf
1. Do I need to bridge the R707 and R708 points?
2. I dont have sata power plugs on my psu so I will power the lite on with the 360. The tut states that i need to turn the drive on and off within 1 second does this mean that I just push the power button (on the front of the 360) to turn the drive on and off?
3. Do I need to disconnect pin 9 on the dvd's power plug?
4. Do I need to install drivers on my PC to use this homemade device?
5. If I use a lead with a gator clip on each end then hook one end to my pc ground (internal metal backing plate) and the other end to my 360 case (internal metal casing) will that resolve all those grounding issues?
6. Anything else I should know before taking on this project?
Thanks for any advice you can provide, this will be my first lite on flash and I'm still a bit "lost in the woods" with this homemade thing. But if I can avoid spending the 65 bucks on a chip and spear/probe then i want to go with the DIY method. BTW2: I can solder pretty good, modded original xbox with a Xenium Ice chip so soldering skills not an issue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) THX Again.
Post by: PRMUnixOs on December 23, 2008, 07:20:00 PM
QUOTE(Nuja @ Dec 22 2008, 08:01 AM)
if im not wrong the 3.3v wire is on sata cable from the psu (u need to figure out if u got sata cables in your psu: 5 wires: 2 black, one red, one yellow and one grey or other color.
-----
anyone know where I can find male j1d1 connector ?
Thnx i try this and work great i take the 3.3 from my power supply! from Main Power Connector!! thnx for all replys!
Post by: BioFUSION on December 23, 2008, 08:08:00 PM
In the other crap I found: ka 431az, xl08 x333, h 905....
I am pretty sure I have the resistors, plenty on the monitor boards. Let me know, thanks.
Post by: jeremydammit on December 23, 2008, 08:22:00 PM
QUOTE(snmp @ Dec 23 2008, 04:05 PM)
lol, you should only need to do this once, to dump the keys, and the drive is designed to do that incase a disc somehow becomes out of place on the tray and is stuck, it will then eject, if it cannot eject, it will stop, so NOT to damage itself........ all dvd drives do this.
i still don't see the point ...its faster and less work to do manual eject...why are all you people scared to try it? cracks me up because it is absolutely the same outcome only faster
Also I personally have had sammy drives on the 360 and xbox1 that had drives that stuck...due to worn out drive belt or motor...so it makes sense to not do ANYTHING...even once....that will cause premature failure, but its your drive....do what you want....lolQUOTE(BioFUSION @ Dec 23 2008, 07:44 PM)
I am interested in making one of these, I went on a search, opening all electronics I didnt need, old broken dvd player, old crt monitor, few others, I am not finding any transistors with the same model numbers as the ones listed in the pics. Does the model # matter? Or is it ok as long as it has the B C E on the board? In the monitor I mostly see H945, also BF420/422/423, c1815, a1015...
In the other crap I found: ka 431az, xl08 x333, h 905....
I am pretty sure I have the resistors, plenty on the monitor boards. Let me know, thanks.
From what yaywoop says and what I have found so far (have tried 3 types and all have worked)....it is almost harder to find a transistor that does NOT work...lol as long as you are sure that you have a npn and know what the order of the pins are you should be good. I struggled with this for a while and it was really just me being a bone head....once I was probing r708 via instead of r707 via....its an easy thing to do! Keep trying and Hyperterminal is a must for reassuring yourself. I find that you really have to rub the input power( 2 d batteries tapped together for a combined voltage of 3) a lot to get it to make all the funky symbols and stuff...try try try again!....once you get that you know that the hardware is good to go!
Post by: BioFUSION on December 23, 2008, 08:34:00 PM
This post has been edited by BioFUSION: Dec 24 2008, 04:34 AM
Post by: JBmtk on December 23, 2008, 08:52:00 PM
My transistor was backwards!!! I assumed that a P2N2222A has the same pin layout as yaywoop's original post. Check your emitter-base-collector pins. As you can guess, I got it to work, but I do have a few notes on my experience:
1) If you practice this on your PC in realterm and you get a few 00s and then a bunch of 00s and letters and/or both when connecting your RX cable to the 1K/power source node, then everything may be good despite what realterm is telling you (constant BREAKS and errors) --I know hoppodude was having these symptoms
2) I ran this in dos, and I could only extract the key once. I had to power cycle both the PC and 360 to extract it again
3) The order of things performed is not that specific..as in whether or not you connect SATA before powering up, or powering up PC/360 first. What is important is that you don't connect TX until you actually perform the test...so don't connect it when dvdkey is asking for inquerty and stuff.
4)If you don't have a serial back plate (mine is an ASUS and they commonly don't have them) to plug into, then look on your motherboard...chances are you have one but just the pins (should be about 9 or 10 of them depending on your motherboard). Just be careful of the pin layout. Typically pin 10 is open and somtimes the numbering is scattered and does not go straight across. Lookup your motherboard manual on google for more info on that. You can easily connect 2 pin headers onto the RX and GND, so no need to buy a seperate back plate
QUOTE(DavGerm4 @ Dec 23 2008, 08:16 PM)
Okay so I saw that someone used his XENO Connectivity Kit, but I'm just confused on how to wire that all up? I've got the XENO Connectivity Kit, so I would like to go that way, if anyone could help me out with that, that would be great!
link?
QUOTE(JPaul2442 @ Dec 23 2008, 09:33 PM)
Ok I'm going to build this homemade key grabber to flash my lite on but I got a couple of questions maby you guys could help me out with... I just want to be sure so I don't end up with a bricked 360, drive, or PC.
BTW: I plan on going by this tutorial to flash my lite on
http://dwl.xbox-scen...sh_with_VIA.pdf
1. Do I need to bridge the R707 and R708 points?
2. I dont have sata power plugs on my psu so I will power the lite on with the 360. The tut states that i need to turn the drive on and off within 1 second does this mean that I just push the power button (on the front of the 360) to turn the drive on and off?
3. Do I need to disconnect pin 9 on the dvd's power plug?
4. Do I need to install drivers on my PC to use this homemade device?
5. If I use a lead with a gator clip on each end then hook one end to my pc ground (internal metal backing plate) and the other end to my 360 case (internal metal casing) will that resolve all those grounding issues?
6. Anything else I should know before taking on this project?
Thanks for any advice you can provide, this will be my first lite on flash and I'm still a bit "lost in the woods" with this homemade thing. But if I can avoid spending the 65 bucks on a chip and spear/probe then i want to go with the DIY method. BTW2: I can solder pretty good, modded original xbox with a Xenium Ice chip so soldering skills not an issue
THX Again.If you follow the tutoral in this thread to flash, then:
1.no
2.You can use the molex on your PC ( I know you have these!) to connect 5V (the red wire typically). Or tape up 3 AA batteries in series
3.Depends on which way you look at...from the back, with you facing the back of the DVD drive and the cable still in (get behind the 360)...it is pin 3 or rather the top left most pin next to an open slot that is to its left. So yes, that needs to come out once you eject the board. There are other alternatives to pulling out pins...see above by manual eject
4.no...all done in dos..no software with the exception of dvd key on a bootable dos USB drive/floopy drive: software download
5.I think so, but be sure to use Pin 5 as ground as well on your serial COM port
6. read through this whole thread and be patient
5.
QUOTE(BioFUSION @ Dec 23 2008, 10:44 PM)
I am interested in making one of these, I went on a search, opening all electronics I didnt need, old broken dvd player, old crt monitor, few others, I am not finding any transistors with the same model numbers as the ones listed in the pics. Does the model # matter? Or is it ok as long as it has the B C E on the board? In the monitor I mostly see H945, also BF420/422/423, c1815, a1015...
In the other crap I found: ka 431az, xl08 x333, h 905....
I am pretty sure I have the resistors, plenty on the monitor boards. Let me know, thanks.
if all else fails, radio shack for sue has some transistors...I was gonna go today but I eventually got it to work. So no model number does not matter, but be sure to google search the pin layout of the transistor you do decide to use! It should tel you the E-B-C nodes
Post by: FalconLTD on December 23, 2008, 11:04:00 PM
1 quick question, where can I get a 3.3v supply? I was planning on making up a power connector for the drive rather than using the xbox power supply. I know I can get 5v and 12v but where to for 3.3v? I dont have sata power supply in my pc. I am using the via sata card.
Post by: FalconLTD on December 23, 2008, 11:16:00 PM
Post by: JBmtk on December 24, 2008, 12:04:00 AM
QUOTE(FalconLTD @ Dec 24 2008, 12:40 AM)
Hi, I tried to get the key using dvdkey and I just got "Nothing received by the com port" I tried over and over. The only problem is that I don't have a rs232 cable. I just hooked the wires directly to the male port on the pc. That would be the same as the cable, wouldn't it? I checked the entire circuit, everything was good. I used a a1015 transistor so it would be E C B. My power to the circuit is the normal molex connector on the pc. I don't know how to use hyperterminal so it'd be good if someone told me. I can't see what's wrong with the circuit. Please help.
1 quick question, where can I get a 3.3v supply? I was planning on making up a power connector for the drive rather than using the xbox power supply. I know I can get 5v and 12v but where to for 3.3v? I dont have sata power supply in my pc. I am using the via sata card.
i also didn't use an rs232 cable...yea, it is fine if you connected them directly to the male side of your motherboard, but double check to make sure those 2 wires are going to RX and GND! Triple check.
You are fine using the 5v from your molex. I would suggest using a breadboard instead of twisting wires together or soldering unless if you have to. Posting pictures would help if you think it is the cirucuit that is the problem. Did you get inquiry and identity fine from dvdkey?
Post by: PRMUnixOs on December 24, 2008, 02:14:00 AM
its says A1015 Y H
(IMG:http://product.ic114.com/Image/Product/Image1/TO-92-2.jpg)
Post by: prenex on December 24, 2008, 03:19:00 AM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Nov 29 2008, 07:39 PM)
All that is required for dumping a liteon key is a transistor and two resistors. which can both be found in old hardware. Computer monitors, VCR's, TV's and radio's are treasure troves of resistors capacitors and signal transistors.
So if you are handy with a soldering iron, why buy an xecuter kit or max232 board that you are only going to use once or twice?
for me at lest it was easier to make one than order online and wait.
Great job. It worked for me, too. Thanks yaywoop.
Post by: d940217 on December 24, 2008, 03:59:00 AM
(IMG:http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/d94/liteon.jpg)
i disconnected the 9 pin from the power to the dvd so its stays half open...but i cant pull the key
sorry about the crappy soldering job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
btw i have an nforce 2 board which im using
have a via sata card..but thats not plugged in as iv read nforce is better
This post has been edited by d940217: Dec 24 2008, 12:10 PM
Post by: allbon on December 24, 2008, 05:14:00 AM
I also have a question: could someone explain clearly what pins to connect on the power cable if i want to make an eject button ? Because I want to use my PC to power the DVD.
I noticed that normally pin9 is at +3.3V when free and when I ground it the drive closes but if i want it to remain closed I must keep the pin grounded - setting pin9 free again ejects the drive. Is this correct ? It looks weird to me.
Post by: ^Ac|d^ on December 24, 2008, 05:31:00 AM
^Ac|d^
Post by: yaywoop on December 24, 2008, 06:15:00 AM
QUOTE(^Ac|d^ @ Dec 25 2008, 12:07 AM)
Hey yaywood Great job I wish I'd known before I got my samples from Maxim
question though I have an older standard PSU in my PC without SATA power connectors so I only have 12v 5v GND whats the best way to get 3.3v from 5v? I am just starting an Electronics Degree so I have a few ideas, but not alot of kit as im home for xmas I was thinking a 741 op amp but that would require +5v and -5v or a voltage divider maybe? (2 resistors 1 to gnd) ? I'm not too sure on the theory It's funny I was just salvaging parts from an old tesco dvd player the other day thinking I wonder if I can make an xbox drive power supply outta any of this shame i left it all at me uni diggs hehe.^Ac|d^
you can use a 3 pin voltage regulator.. either a set 3.3V regulator, or an adjustable one set to 3.3V
if you use a voltage divider the voltage will change as current is drawn..
Post by: rob7bt on December 24, 2008, 06:46:00 AM
I have tried the transistor method and a st232 method(another forum mentioned they got this chip to work perfectly on 3.3V!)
I got an output on hyperterm at 1 point still couldnt get the key.
one question if i try it again and it doesnt work and i power everythingdown ,can i just leave the 360 drive tray half open until i attempt it next time.
Or do i have to open the drive everytime and remove the pin to stop it going back in?
Post by: valex76x on December 24, 2008, 06:48:00 AM
in the transistor i have is write C945 but in this forum I found 2 different schemes:
In the first post photos for the C945 the central pin is E
and in http://www.futurlec....tors/C945.shtml photos the central pin is C
Please help!
Thanks
Post by: ^Ac|d^ on December 24, 2008, 06:58:00 AM
trying to keep it in the spirit of the topic hmm wonder if a dbox2 PSU has a 5 to 3.3 voltage reg, got a couple of those lyin about ^Ac|d^
Post by: rob7bt on December 24, 2008, 07:23:00 AM
i think there are variants,thats why the pinouts are slightlt differrent maybe,i have tried 8050,and c547 and still havent got the key!
I have been trying for 2 days (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
If using the max232 method does the tx point still have to be probed?
i soldered all the 4 wires directly to drive and still i cannot get the key?
if changing pinouts when not sure of C B E etc is it posible i could of damaged the liteon board?
This post has been edited by rob7bt: Dec 24 2008, 03:25 PM
Post by: hippodude100 on December 24, 2008, 07:32:00 AM
Ohhhh, for fucks sake......
My transistor was backwards!!! I assumed that a P2N2222A has the same pin layout as yaywoop's original post. Check your emitter-base-collector pins. As you can guess, I got it to work, but I do have a few notes on my experience:
1) If you practice this on your PC in realterm and you get a few 00s and then a bunch of 00s and letters and/or both when connecting your RX cable to the 1K/power source node, then everything may be good despite what realterm is telling you (constant BREAKS and errors) --I know hoppodude was having these symptoms
2) I ran this in dos, and I could only extract the key once. I had to power cycle both the PC and 360 to extract it again
3) The order of things performed is not that specific..as in whether or not you connect SATA before powering up, or powering up PC/360 first. What is important is that you don't connect TX until you actually perform the test...so don't connect it when dvdkey is asking for inquerty and stuff.
4)If you don't have a serial back plate (mine is an ASUS and they commonly don't have them) to plug into, then look on your motherboard...chances are you have one but just the pins (should be about 9 or 10 of them depending on your motherboard). Just be careful of the pin layout. Typically pin 10 is open and somtimes the numbering is scattered and does not go straight across. Lookup your motherboard manual on google for more info on that. You can easily connect 2 pin headers onto the RX and GND, so no need to buy a seperate back plate
link?
If you follow the tutoral in this thread to flash, then:
I only get a break from realterm when I connect it , else nothing.
Gonna check the circuit again ^^
Post by: hippodude100 on December 24, 2008, 08:06:00 AM
But still no key, not in dos not in windows...
And the program hangs in windows :s
really weird
Post by: FalconLTD on December 24, 2008, 08:32:00 AM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Dec 24 2008, 03:40 AM)
i also didn't use an rs232 cable...yea, it is fine if you connected them directly to the male side of your motherboard, but double check to make sure those 2 wires are going to RX and GND! Triple check.
You are fine using the 5v from your molex. I would suggest using a breadboard instead of twisting wires together or soldering unless if you have to. Posting pictures would help if you think it is the cirucuit that is the problem. Did you get inquiry and identity fine from dvdkey?
Does the size of the resistors matter?? Mine are really small with the correct color codes. They are like "_" that long. Also where can I get 3.3v without a regulator?
Post by: jeremydammit on December 24, 2008, 08:36:00 AM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 24 2008, 07:42 AM)
Guess what, I flipped it and got a lot of icons on realterm
But still no key, not in dos not in windows...
And the program hangs in windows :s
really weird
that means your hardware is working great!,...now you just need to follow the steps perfectly to get the key...surly you are missing something
Post by: hippodude100 on December 24, 2008, 09:12:00 AM
If I only connect the drive to the pc, and don't use te probe ,I get readings from realterm ....
how can there be somethin comming in when it isn't supposed to ^^
I checked everyting and no shorts :s
sometimes it give me some (think random) data and the dvdkey program keeps waiting,
probably because there isnt something its waiting for.
but how comes that I get something when it don't connect it, and when I do there is nothing :s
Post by: d940217 on December 24, 2008, 10:32:00 AM
QUOTE(d940217 @ Dec 24 2008, 06:35 AM)
cant seem to get this to work..did i mess something up on my cable?
i disconnected the 9 pin from the power to the dvd so its stays half open...but i cant pull the key
sorry about the crappy soldering job
btw i have an nforce 2 board which im using
have a via sata card..but thats not plugged in as iv read nforce is better
still cant get it to work..tried jungleflasher, xtractor by maximus and dvdkey32
Post by: rob7bt on December 24, 2008, 10:43:00 AM
I have done lots of project /soldering work over the years and i find this i very simple circuit to make yet no results very frustrating
Post by: d940217 on December 24, 2008, 11:01:00 AM
QUOTE(rob7bt @ Dec 24 2008, 01:19 PM)
I am in the same boat as you whatever i have tried up tp now hasnt worked.
I have done lots of project /soldering work over the years and i find this i very simple circuit to make yet no results very frustrating
right...the system im modding is an xmas present for my sisters
i know the circuit is built right as shown in the pic and iv tried both onboard nforce and via via pci
driving me mad..was up till 5AM trying to get the damn thing to work
and now here i am 7hrs later at the job, im hoping i can have this figured out when i get home tonight so i can just get it done!
any help from those with some insight would be greatly appreciated
Post by: tnynyn on December 24, 2008, 11:12:00 AM
so it would look like
DB9 ------ NPN Transistor ------ 10k Resistor ------- needle
?
This post has been edited by tnynyn: Dec 24 2008, 07:13 PM
Post by: ILikeMeat on December 24, 2008, 01:02:00 PM
Using JungleFlasher I dumped my iXtreme 1.5 BenQ (well, Philips DROM 6316 drive but it is the same controller chip as BenQ blah blah don't feel like getting into it) key, took like 0.0001 seconds, was quite nice, I am quite confident about doing a LiteOn.
Thanks this worked great!
Post by: Babysexydragon on December 24, 2008, 03:11:00 PM
Post by: hippodude100 on December 24, 2008, 03:14:00 PM
Is there ever going to be another way to dump the key ? because I am getting irritated by the constant failing of dumping the key
The good old days of MS-25 ^^
Post by: KCO on December 24, 2008, 04:30:00 PM
QUOTE(valex76x @ Dec 24 2008, 11:24 AM)
in the transistor i have is write C945 but in this forum I found 2 different schemes:
In the first post photos for the C945 the central pin is E
and in http://www.futurlec....tors/C945.shtml photos the central pin is C
Please help!
Thanks
if true, is absolutely right in the post compared to the other exit datasheet!
please someone who has used the c945 to comment on the results and how it works.
Post by: sunrise3500 on December 24, 2008, 04:41:00 PM
Was able to do this and use Jungle Flasher to read the key and flash the drive successfully!
Did encounter one problem that I wasted a few hours on; me. I thought the serial diagram was for the female end that's part of the circuit so I ended up wiring it mirrored... after hours of getting nothing over the COM port, tested it with realterm and noticed DCD was lighting up rather than Rx. After using the RIGHT pins it worked first go!
(And second go, just to make sure...). Cheers and merry christmas/happy festivus!
Post by: yaywoop on December 24, 2008, 05:03:00 PM
don't know how i stuffed that one up. thanks for picking it up. anyway its fixed now
on a side note, the c945 seems to work with the collector and emitter swapped
QUOTE(sunrise3500 @ Dec 25 2008, 11:17 AM)
A+! Thanks heaps to the OP and all other contributors.
Was able to do this and use Jungle Flasher to read the key and flash the drive successfully!
Did encounter one problem that I wasted a few hours on; me. I thought the serial diagram was for the female end that's part of the circuit
so I ended up wiring it mirrored... after hours of getting nothing over the COM port, tested it with realterm and noticed DCD was lighting
up rather than Rx. After using the RIGHT pins it worked first go!
(And second go, just to make sure...). Cheers and merry christmas/happy festivus!serial plugs and ports are marked with the pin numbers too
Post by: hippodude100 on December 24, 2008, 05:05:00 PM
Can somebody post the good one( If it worked for you) when you use te xbox 360 power ?
ty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Post by: sunrise3500 on December 24, 2008, 05:11:00 PM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 25 2008, 11:41 AM)
I am reading a lot of way's for the tray status, perhaps I got that wrong.
Can somebody post the good one( If it worked for you) when you use te xbox 360 power ?
ty
With the drive unpowered/unplugged.. I took pin 9 out of the power plug (So it no longer auto closes). Pushed the plastic thing in the drive that opens up the tray and pulled the tray out half way.
Post by: hippodude100 on December 24, 2008, 05:52:00 PM
Now I have a drive that freezes my windows
but thank for all te info
And a Merry Christmas
Post by: JBmtk on December 24, 2008, 06:08:00 PM
QUOTE(PRMUnixOs @ Dec 24 2008, 03:50 AM)
hello i want to know if this transistor works i find on old stuff
its says A1015 Y H
Try it out....it should probably work.
QUOTE(^Ac|d^ @ Dec 24 2008, 07:07 AM)
Hey yaywood Great job I wish I'd known before I got my samples from Maxim
question though I have an older standard PSU in my PC without SATA power connectors so I only have 12v 5v GND whats the best way to get 3.3v from 5v? I am just starting an Electronics Degree so I have a few ideas, but not alot of kit as im home for xmas I was thinking a 741 op amp but that would require +5v and -5v or a voltage divider maybe? (2 resistors 1 to gnd) ? I'm not too sure on the theory It's funny I was just salvaging parts from an old tesco dvd player the other day thinking I wonder if I can make an xbox drive power supply outta any of this shame i left it all at me uni diggs hehe.^Ac|d^
Actually, like Yawoop said, the COM port is supposed to "see" +/- 3.3V in the signal , but in this thread, we are using 5V from the PC to do the same job...but your hardware should not be adversly affected. This is why people are finding other circuits on other forums that are more in depth...because they limit the output to the "right" amount. You should be find using 5V
QUOTE(rob7bt @ Dec 24 2008, 08:22 AM)
I can get the inquiry and identify ok but when i get to the key part it sayssega 54 din work but com port works ok,or something similar to that!
I have tried the transistor method and a st232 method(another forum mentioned they got this chip to work perfectly on 3.3V!)
I got an output on hyperterm at 1 point still couldnt get the key.
one question if i try it again and it doesnt work and i power everythingdown ,can i just leave the 360 drive tray half open until i attempt it next time.
Or do i have to open the drive everytime and remove the pin to stop it going back in?
I left mine powered up between shutting down the PC and retrieving the key, although once I found the key, I had to power cycle the PC everytime to find it again.
You should only need to do the half-open trick once and then you can leave it on after conecting PC sata while 360 is off
QUOTE(rob7bt @ Dec 24 2008, 08:59 AM)
Valex76x i had the same trouble tried swapping them around but got nowhere!
i think there are variants,thats why the pinouts are slightlt differrent maybe,i have tried 8050,and c547 and still havent got the key!
I have been trying for 2 days
If using the max232 method does the tx point still have to be probed?
i soldered all the 4 wires directly to drive and still i cannot get the key?
if changing pinouts when not sure of C B E etc is it posible i could of damaged the liteon board?
TX always has to be probed to get the DVD key...that is where the DVD transmits it's key. I had my transistor switched around the whole time while performing the tests and nothing was harmed...so you should be fine. try using 360 to power drive...this requires no additional soldering.
QUOTE(tnynyn @ Dec 24 2008, 12:48 PM)
I have the Xbox Connectivity kit to power/eject the dvd drive, do I just need to connect a db9 head >> npn transistor >>> 10k resistor >> spear (since the ground is provided by the connectivity kit) to read the key?
so it would look like
DB9 ------ NPN Transistor ------ 10k Resistor ------- needle
?
I think so, but I don't know why you bought the kit in the first place...you can use the 360 to power the drive. I don't own that kit so you may need to double check with someone else
QUOTE(Babysexydragon @ Dec 24 2008, 04:47 PM)
where can i download the Dos dvdkey program???
Post by: killerz on December 24, 2008, 07:23:00 PM
is it hard ?
Post by: jeremydammit on December 24, 2008, 07:30:00 PM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 24 2008, 04:41 PM)
I am reading a lot of way's for the tray status, perhaps I got that wrong.
Can somebody post the good one( If it worked for you) when you use te xbox 360 power ?
ty
manual eject works 100% no pulling pins needed
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 24 2008, 06:59 PM)
yo yaywoop is there a way to add a led to your setup so when i use the prob i get a led to light up....
is it hard ?
yes you can + for the led goes to the probe and the other lead goes to the ground...may need a very small resistor i didnt use one
Post by: killerz on December 24, 2008, 08:37:00 PM
Post by: JBmtk on December 24, 2008, 08:54:00 PM
QUOTE(killerz @ Dec 24 2008, 11:13 PM)
jeremydammit whats the chance of getting a pic of the setup pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease
it is in this thead
Post by: jeremydammit on December 24, 2008, 09:31:00 PM
Post by: reflector on December 25, 2008, 12:32:00 PM
It didn't work at first but I checked in the multimeter again and the C an E were reversed.
This post has been edited by reflector: Dec 25 2008, 08:32 PM
Post by: snmp on December 25, 2008, 02:28:00 PM
connectivity kits are really a waste of time and money, the 360 has its own power source, eject button.
the tray thing ive heard many different techniques, i eject then push back in halfway then remove power from dvd
can watch video here http://elite360.info..._...1&Itemid=50
Post by: yaywoop on December 25, 2008, 05:07:00 PM
Post by: gfreeman86 on December 25, 2008, 06:40:00 PM
I made yaywoop's circuit for extraction powered from 5V PC molex (but also tryied with 3.5V battery)
The circuit seems ok (tested with 0V on TX reads 5V output, with the real TX from dvd drive it reads 0!)
my steps:
- Power on dvd (powered by xbox)
- Eject
- Power off dvd
- Remove pin3
- Close half tray
- Power on dvd
- Connect SATA to PC
- dvdkey says error "...sega: 54 but com port seems working..."
- dvdkey32 says this:
(IMG:http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/7674/postwg7.jpg)
Please help me I really don't know what to try else.
Thanks to all and Merry Christmas
Post by: FalconLTD on December 25, 2008, 11:47:00 PM
. The wire insulation started melting and smoke started to rise. I pulled all plugged. I found all new parts - transistor etc. I built a new circuit with better wires and resistors. Now it gives the same error - Nothing received by com port. I dont know what's wrong. Everything is the SAME. Please help
Post by: recaihazer on December 26, 2008, 01:35:00 AM
Thanks, thanks so much
Post by: foolkiller on December 26, 2008, 03:10:00 AM
QUOTE(snmp @ Dec 25 2008, 05:04 PM)
usb rs232 ttl is the best tool, db9 is dangerous as you need to jump power off of something, never know with those archaic devices, usb derives its power from usb, no need to jump from anything, my two cents
connectivity kits are really a waste of time and money, the 360 has its own power source, eject button.
the tray thing ive heard many different techniques, i eject then push back in halfway then remove power from dvd
can watch video here http://elite360.info/index.php?option=com_...1&Itemid=50
Xbox Live is the main reason people don't use the 360 to power the drive. Powering on the 360 with the SATA cable disconnected gets logged in the kernel and Microsoft can retrieve this information at any time. Theirs obviously a big gray area on weather or not they can ban you for this. Just because you had the SATA cable disconnected does not nesseserily mean it was for flashing the drive. Anyways that's a completely different topic that's been discussed over and over again. So that's why people suggest getting the connectivity kit. Yes you could build one yourself, it only requires some wire and 5mins of you time. The connectivity kit is worth it because its a much cleaner job, no need for hacking and splicing wires. Plus it comes with a connector to hook up your 360 HDD to your PC. For the price and piece of mind(Xbox Live Paranoia) it really is worth it.
Post by: snmp on December 26, 2008, 03:18:00 AM
360 never boots without av cable plugged in......???!!!!!!
every box ive ever done was done that way, and they're all still running strong on live.
thats a big number too.
but you are entitled to your opinion, as i am mine.
Post by: foolkiller on December 26, 2008, 03:43:00 AM
QUOTE(snmp @ Dec 26 2008, 05:54 AM)
thats completely paranoid and retarded.
360 never boots without av cable plugged in......???!!!!!!
every box ive ever done was done that way, and they're all still running strong on live.
thats a big number too.
but you are entitled to your opinion, as i am mine.
"360 never boots without av cable plugged in......???!!!!!!"
Who said anything about the AV cable? And I did say you wont get band just for that, but it could raise a flag. So why raise flags that are easily preventable?
Post by: kuhnnl on December 26, 2008, 03:44:00 AM
QUOTE(foolkiller @ Dec 26 2008, 11:46 AM)
Xbox Live is the main reason people don't use the 360 to power the drive. Powering on the 360 with the SATA cable disconnected gets logged in the kernel and Microsoft can retrieve this information at any time. Theirs obviously a big gray area on weather or not they can ban you for this. Just because you had the SATA cable disconnected does not nesseserily mean it was for flashing the drive. Anyways that's a completely different topic that's been discussed over and over again. So that's why people suggest getting the connectivity kit. Yes you could build one yourself, it only requires some wire and 5mins of you time. The connectivity kit is worth it because its a much cleaner job, no need for hacking and splicing wires. Plus it comes with a connector to hook up your 360 HDD to your PC. For the price and piece of mind(Xbox Live Paranoia) it really is worth it.
But without the Ethernet cable connected there must be no probs?????
i think
Post by: gfreeman86 on December 26, 2008, 05:25:00 AM
QUOTE(gfreeman86 @ Dec 26 2008, 03:16 AM)
Hi guys, I have a little problem while trying to get the key from my Lite-on.
I made yaywoop's circuit for extraction powered from 5V PC molex (but also tryied with 3.5V battery)
The circuit seems ok (tested with 0V on TX reads 5V output, with the real TX from dvd drive it reads 0!)
my steps:
- Power on dvd (powered by xbox)
- Eject
- Power off dvd
- Remove pin3
- Close half tray
- Power on dvd
- Connect SATA to PC
- dvdkey says error "...sega: 54 but com port seems working..."
- dvdkey32 says this:
Please help me I really don't know what to try else.
Thanks to all and Merry Christmas
Please, any ideas??
Post by: rob7bt on December 26, 2008, 05:59:00 AM
I rebuilt another circuit last night,just incase something was wrong.
I opened hyperterm and got an output of symbols first time,its just annoying,i seem so close but nothing.
Just to recap do i
1.when the instructs say power dvd,if i am using the 360's power does it mean power up the xbox 360 for dvd to get power, or just keep pulling the dvd connector in and out,and leave xbox 360 on?
2.when it says eject tray,does it mean press the eject button on the xbox's motherboard or just pull the pin out the dvd connector to eject the tray?
i have tried different ways and always receive the same error as the picture from someone else (gfreeman86) or something.
would it work if i put a game disc in the drive,as other drives you have to put a game disc in as this when the drive transmits the key also isnt it,surely it transmits the key at the same time,and the drive has to be closed wouldnt it?
This post has been edited by rob7bt: Dec 26 2008, 02:07 PM
Post by: yaywoop on December 26, 2008, 07:21:00 AM
1 - make sure you don't connect the serial to the drive until you are ready to dump the key.
2 - power cycle the drive before every attempt. (if using the xbox 360, just turn the xbox off and on)
3 - have SATA plugged in when you turn on the drive
4 - drive must be half way out and pin 3 must not be connected. (at least in my experience)
5 - make sure you are probing the right point! (the inner R707 pad or the via connected to it)
6 - you could try it in DOS, possibly there is a problem in your windows,, make a dos floppy and copy dvdkey (dos version) to it, reboot (configure your bios to boot from floppy first) and run 'dvdkey <sata address>' . dos won't work with usb adapters. in dos you may need to restart the pc before every attempt
tell me if that works
This post has been edited by yaywoop: Dec 26 2008, 03:22 PM
Post by: luna_s on December 26, 2008, 08:02:00 AM
thanks for this guide and everything else (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
saved me a few quid thats for sure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
tip for people, find you transistor then google for the datasheet - it'll tell you the pinout - thats what i did
worked first time - triple checked the key for accuracy too
Post by: scu11y69 on December 26, 2008, 08:30:00 AM
many thanks
resitor chart http://www.instructa...AFZ5.MEDIUM.jpg
here the ones i have
also some only have 3 stripes
green resitor stripes = red orange blue
pink resitor stripes = grey violet orange yellow
black resiter with grey stipe and the letter H on it
green resitor stripes = blue grey black
pink resitor stripes = silver red black purple
green resitor stripes = yellow brown black
and quite a few brown square 1s with the number F28 223j
Post by: rob7bt on December 26, 2008, 08:31:00 AM
do you think i should try powering the drive from my pc?
or try a homemade usb to rs 232?
Post by: stacetheace on December 26, 2008, 10:54:00 AM
from what i found i can take
pin 1 to tx on 232 and split to link r707 like probe
pin2 to rx on 232
pin 6 to 3v on 232
pin 11 to grnd on 232
ive allready dumped my key with an rs232 but would like to cut out soildering as i am not very good at it
if any one can conferm wiether im right or wrong it would be much aappreciated
cheers stacey
This post has been edited by stacetheace: Dec 26 2008, 07:11 PM
Post by: NeedCoffee on December 26, 2008, 11:49:00 AM
I want to say a huge THANK YOU!!! to yaywoop. The thing worked fine for me, though my hand was shaking a bit when pressing the Erase button ... all work done in Vista (ICH9 chip) with JungleFlasher and the Liteon powered by the Xbox. And, obviously, all my respect and gratitude to the Jungle Team for this Xmas present ...
Post by: JBmtk on December 26, 2008, 12:31:00 PM
QUOTE(foolkiller @ Dec 26 2008, 05:46 AM)
Xbox Live is the main reason people don't use the 360 to power the drive. Powering on the 360 with the SATA cable disconnected gets logged in the kernel and Microsoft can retrieve this information at any time. Theirs obviously a big gray area on weather or not they can ban you for this. Just because you had the SATA cable disconnected does not nesseserily mean it was for flashing the drive. Anyways that's a completely different topic that's been discussed over and over again. So that's why people suggest getting the connectivity kit. Yes you could build one yourself, it only requires some wire and 5mins of you time. The connectivity kit is worth it because its a much cleaner job, no need for hacking and splicing wires. Plus it comes with a connector to hook up your 360 HDD to your PC. For the price and piece of mind(Xbox Live Paranoia) it really is worth it.
links?
In order to flash any previous dvd drives, you had to power on your drive and connect your sata cable and then flash via sata...so your 360 sata cable was unplugged!
Post by: PaCHoNe on December 26, 2008, 01:14:00 PM
This is mi config
(IMG:http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/9103/dscn19272383473sf5.jpg)
Post by: DavGerm4 on December 26, 2008, 02:02:00 PM
Post by: pedrobc on December 26, 2008, 02:34:00 PM
Whats Problem?
yaywoop please help.
Why The Drive Key is 0000000000 ???
i Mistake in my work ?
When click the Get Key ... See This Error : *WARNING* Key Does Not Look Good
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Post by: swirlx on December 26, 2008, 02:37:00 PM
I have constructed the tool as per the original post. The BCE connections are all correct as I have double checked the diagram on the transistor's box.
I'm having a lot of trouble understanding how to power the drive by the 360. Is it possible to dump the key using the 360 as a power source using Jeremydammit's method?
Do I need to connect the ground on the drive to the ground on the serial cable?
Here is the method I'm using:
1. Power on the computer (boot to DOS)
2. Power on the 360 (powers the drive)
3. Execute dosflash, type in ATAPI drive number, type liteon k, enter file names.
4. Eject the drive via Jeremydammit's method, leave half open.
5. Connect the ground cable to the drive, and then the pin (sewing needle with wire wrapped around it) in R707
6. Hit y
This results in dosflash telling me dvd-key is invalid.
I think the problem is using the xbox 360 to power the drive, but I don't know what that is a problem. Can someone help me out, I've been looking through the whole thread but can't figure this out.
Also, I didn't think this would be a problem, but instead of using a serial cable to connect the device I created to the COM port on my computer I just connect the device directly into the computer using only pins 2 and 5.
Post by: JBmtk on December 26, 2008, 02:51:00 PM
QUOTE(swirlx @ Dec 26 2008, 05:13 PM)
Hey guys, I'm having trouble getting a valid key from dosflash or dvdkey.
I have constructed the tool as per the original post. The BCE connections are all correct as I have double checked the diagram on the transistor's box.
I'm having a lot of trouble understanding how to power the drive by the 360. Is it possible to dump the key using the 360 as a power source using Jeremydammit's method?
Do I need to connect the ground on the drive to the ground on the serial cable?
Here is the method I'm using:
1. Power on the computer (boot to DOS)
2. Power on the 360 (powers the drive)
3. Execute dosflash, type in ATAPI drive number, type liteon k, enter file names.
4. Eject the drive via Jeremydammit's method, leave half open.
5. Connect the ground cable to the drive, and then the pin (sewing needle with wire wrapped around it) in R707
6. Hit y
This results in dosflash telling me dvd-key is invalid.
I think the problem is using the xbox 360 to power the drive, but I don't know what that is a problem. Can someone help me out, I've been looking through the whole thread but can't figure this out.
Also, I didn't think this would be a problem, but instead of using a serial cable to connect the device I created to the COM port on my computer I just connect the device directly into the computer using only pins 2 and 5.
in dvdkey, do you get the identity/inquiry files? If you do, but not the key, then your circuit is wrong. Double check your wires to your COM port. Pins 2 and 3 are receive and transmit respectively. So to check that you are using the right pins, use realterm in windows and connect up to pins 2 and 3 and then in realterm there should be an option for you to transmit and receive stuff by simply typing. Once you get that, then leave the pin on receive and put the other to ground (pin 5).
remember, some pin layouts are different on motherboards so be absoluty sure that you are using pins 2 and 5. Check your motherboard manual. Yes, you can use the 360 to power your drive...it is the easiest method.
This post has been edited by JBmtk: Dec 26 2008, 10:52 PM
Post by: clixo on December 26, 2008, 03:21:00 PM
(IMG:http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/315/dsc02695kc9.jpg)
(IMG:http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/2903/dsc02696xb3.jpg)
, it works as a rs232 console cable with foneras etc , it only have 3 lines : Ground , Rx and Tx. the question is , do ineed the 5 V line ? if so where to solder it.
Post by: yaywoop on December 26, 2008, 03:25:00 PM
Post by: clixo on December 26, 2008, 03:42:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 27 2008, 01:01 AM)
that data cable looks lite it uses parasitic power from the com port, so no 5V is needed
Thanks for the fast reply
i will try it and reply with the results
Post by: DavGerm4 on December 26, 2008, 04:02:00 PM
So if I'm going to start flashing Liteon's I would like to figure out how that is done.
Post by: swirlx on December 26, 2008, 05:47:00 PM
QUOTE
QUOTE(swirlx @ Dec 26 2008, 05:13 PM)
Hey guys, I'm having trouble getting a valid key from dosflash or dvdkey.
I have constructed the tool as per the original post. The BCE connections are all correct as I have double checked the diagram on the transistor's box.
I'm having a lot of trouble understanding how to power the drive by the 360. Is it possible to dump the key using the 360 as a power source using Jeremydammit's method?
Do I need to connect the ground on the drive to the ground on the serial cable?
Here is the method I'm using:
1. Power on the computer (boot to DOS)
2. Power on the 360 (powers the drive)
3. Execute dosflash, type in ATAPI drive number, type liteon k, enter file names.
4. Eject the drive via Jeremydammit's method, leave half open.
5. Connect the ground cable to the drive, and then the pin (sewing needle with wire wrapped around it) in R707
6. Hit y
This results in dosflash telling me dvd-key is invalid.
I think the problem is using the xbox 360 to power the drive, but I don't know what that is a problem. Can someone help me out, I've been looking through the whole thread but can't figure this out.
Also, I didn't think this would be a problem, but instead of using a serial cable to connect the device I created to the COM port on my computer I just connect the device directly into the computer using only pins 2 and 5.
in dvdkey, do you get the identity/inquiry files? If you do, but not the key, then your circuit is wrong. Double check your wires to your COM port. Pins 2 and 3 are receive and transmit respectively. So to check that you are using the right pins, use realterm in windows and connect up to pins 2 and 3 and then in realterm there should be an option for you to transmit and receive stuff by simply typing. Once you get that, then leave the pin on receive and put the other to ground (pin 5).
remember, some pin layouts are different on motherboards so be absoluty sure that you are using pins 2 and 5. Check your motherboard manual. Yes, you can use the 360 to power your drive...it is the easiest method.
Hey guys, I'm having trouble getting a valid key from dosflash or dvdkey.
I have constructed the tool as per the original post. The BCE connections are all correct as I have double checked the diagram on the transistor's box.
I'm having a lot of trouble understanding how to power the drive by the 360. Is it possible to dump the key using the 360 as a power source using Jeremydammit's method?
Do I need to connect the ground on the drive to the ground on the serial cable?
Here is the method I'm using:
1. Power on the computer (boot to DOS)
2. Power on the 360 (powers the drive)
3. Execute dosflash, type in ATAPI drive number, type liteon k, enter file names.
4. Eject the drive via Jeremydammit's method, leave half open.
5. Connect the ground cable to the drive, and then the pin (sewing needle with wire wrapped around it) in R707
6. Hit y
This results in dosflash telling me dvd-key is invalid.
I think the problem is using the xbox 360 to power the drive, but I don't know what that is a problem. Can someone help me out, I've been looking through the whole thread but can't figure this out.
Also, I didn't think this would be a problem, but instead of using a serial cable to connect the device I created to the COM port on my computer I just connect the device directly into the computer using only pins 2 and 5.
in dvdkey, do you get the identity/inquiry files? If you do, but not the key, then your circuit is wrong. Double check your wires to your COM port. Pins 2 and 3 are receive and transmit respectively. So to check that you are using the right pins, use realterm in windows and connect up to pins 2 and 3 and then in realterm there should be an option for you to transmit and receive stuff by simply typing. Once you get that, then leave the pin on receive and put the other to ground (pin 5).
remember, some pin layouts are different on motherboards so be absoluty sure that you are using pins 2 and 5. Check your motherboard manual. Yes, you can use the 360 to power your drive...it is the easiest method.
I am getting the identity/inquiry files only. I downloaded realterm but I haven't used a program like this before so I'm a bit lost. Is there a guide or instructions somewhere I could read to figure this out? I'm looking for my serial pinout, I have an ASUS M2N-SLI deluxe (fairly popular motherboard), but I'm having a hard time finding that information. The motherboard manual doesn't seem to have it either. Does anyone else have an M2N and know the pinout?
Post by: tnynyn on December 26, 2008, 05:59:00 PM
Post by: NaughtyTester on December 26, 2008, 06:04:00 PM
QUOTE(swirlx @ Dec 26 2008, 07:23 PM)
I am getting the identity/inquiry files only. I downloaded realterm but I haven't used a program like this before so I'm a bit lost. Is there a guide or instructions somewhere I could read to figure this out? I'm looking for my serial pinout, I have an ASUS M2N-SLI deluxe (fairly popular motherboard), but I'm having a hard time finding that information. The motherboard manual doesn't seem to have it either. Does anyone else have an M2N and know the pinout?
I had the same problem I finally dump the key by charing the 5volt from PC molex to the console itself. My help, worked for me.
Post by: DREWGEN3 on December 26, 2008, 06:08:00 PM
Made on a piece of vero board out of parts lying around the house. Spear made from a nail ground on an injector needle grinder. Worked first time.
(IMG:http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9721/img0015resizezo6.jpg)
Post by: meatballz on December 26, 2008, 06:16:00 PM
Any help would be useful. Thanks
Post by: JBmtk on December 26, 2008, 06:22:00 PM
QUOTE(swirlx @ Dec 26 2008, 07:23 PM)
I am getting the identity/inquiry files only. I downloaded realterm but I haven't used a program like this before so I'm a bit lost. Is there a guide or instructions somewhere I could read to figure this out? I'm looking for my serial pinout, I have an ASUS M2N-SLI deluxe (fairly popular motherboard), but I'm having a hard time finding that information. The motherboard manual doesn't seem to have it either. Does anyone else have an M2N and know the pinout?
A quick google search brought up your motherboard here
Go to page 21 and it looks like your motheboard does have a serial port already......so this would make it easy on your part
you don't need to test your COM port then cause your pins should match up. If you are getting identity/inquiry files, then your SATA connection is working fine. I would double check your transistor and make sure the pins are right....if you think it is right, then maybe switch out the transistor. Also, yawoop stated to make sure that TX isn't making contact until you boot up into DOS
Post by: tnynyn on December 26, 2008, 07:11:00 PM
after lots of trial and error, i finally got it working...
heres a couple problems i ran into that some people have:
when using dvdkey32:
"key is not valid"
0000000000
check resistors; I swapped mines out and got non zeroes, but it still said key was not valid.
i finally swapped transistor and key is good!!
Post by: swirlx on December 26, 2008, 11:17:00 PM
QUOTE
A quick google search brought up your motherboard here
Go to page 21 and it looks like your motheboard does have a serial port already......so this would make it easy on your part
you don't need to test your COM port then cause your pins should match up. If you are getting identity/inquiry files, then your SATA connection is working fine. I would double check your transistor and make sure the pins are right....if you think it is right, then maybe switch out the transistor. Also, yawoop stated to make sure that TX isn't making contact until you boot up into DOS
Go to page 21 and it looks like your motheboard does have a serial port already......so this would make it easy on your part
you don't need to test your COM port then cause your pins should match up. If you are getting identity/inquiry files, then your SATA connection is working fine. I would double check your transistor and make sure the pins are right....if you think it is right, then maybe switch out the transistor. Also, yawoop stated to make sure that TX isn't making contact until you boot up into DOS
Oh, haha, when I said COM port I meant serial, I assumed they were one and the same for some reason. I do have a serial and I have that plugged in. I suppose I could have burnt out/broken the transistor. I'll rebuild it and try again. I definitely only plug in TX right before I'm ready to dump. SATA is working fine, is just that connection that is the problem. Perhaps I'll buy some breadboard.
I still have one thing I'd like to clear up. The only thing I built is the probe circuit. I didn't add in any sort of ground to the xbox drive.
Should I be able to dump the key only using the probe and the xbox psu? (No ground to the xbox drive from the probe circuit?)
Post by: plugin on December 27, 2008, 01:00:00 AM
(IMG:http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww180/pluginm/homemadespear.jpg)
Post by: LazyTank on December 27, 2008, 01:46:00 AM
Some notes to people using this:
1. The diagram on the first page refers to serial pins from the perspective of looking into the male connector from where it plugs into the female connector (check the actual serial adapter, the pins should be labeled on it)
2. It may be necessary to remove a bit of the green silicone covering around the pin hole to get a good connection with your probe
3. Be sure to power on the drive, hit eject, power off the drive by unplugging it, then pushing it in half way, then plugging it back in, THEN you can run DVDKEY32 sucessfully.
4. If you can make a switch to quickly power on/off the drive, it would be worth your time as flashing it is a bit of a bitch without one.
happy modding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
This post has been edited by LazyTank: Dec 27 2008, 09:47 AM
Post by: Elhamy on December 27, 2008, 02:20:00 AM
as i have male connector on board and male from the connectivity kit and use female - female cable to connect the 2 points
Post by: rob7bt on December 27, 2008, 09:15:00 AM
if i do the above my drive closes again.
I have done it removing the pin next to the empty slots,but still i cant get the key!
I have been trying this since 23rd! i have now connected to a usb to serial device incase my it was a com port issue but still the same result.
I am sure it is the tray status is what is wrong.
I have always been able to retrieve the identify and inquiry.bin files.
Any help appreciated! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
I get an output in hyperterm using serial port and usb to serial convertor,nut never the key can someone explain in detail how to get the drive in the correct status i.e (powering the xbox 360 off or pull the connector out the back or pull the plug out the wall.)
Many Thanks
This post has been edited by rob7bt: Dec 27 2008, 05:18 PM
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 27, 2008, 09:17:00 AM
I am not good with soldering and stuff but I have attempted your diagram. This is what I have so far.
Do you see anything wrong with my current setup? What am I missing? This looks far too simple to work
I will power the dvd drive with the xbox360 power or my xbox360 power connectivity kit v2 (when it arrives).
Post by: rob7bt on December 27, 2008, 09:22:00 AM
I would like to know if we could use these aswell, NPN Epitaxial Silicon Transistors that is.
Are they any different from NPN general purpose transistors.
This post has been edited by rob7bt: Dec 27 2008, 05:26 PM
Post by: scu11y69 on December 27, 2008, 10:47:00 AM
heres the pic http://img139.images...sdc10514tn9.jpg
would be gratfull full a fast reply soldier iron on !!!!!!!
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 27, 2008, 10:47:00 AM
(IMG:http://i39.tinypic.com/slmzop.jpg)
Thanks!
This post has been edited by ImRickJamesB1tch: Dec 27 2008, 06:48 PM
Post by: LazyTank on December 27, 2008, 12:22:00 PM
QUOTE(Elhamy @ Dec 27 2008, 10:56 AM)
can i use a male connector while building the kit ?
as i have male connector on board and male from the connectivity kit and use female - female cable to connect the 2 points
yes, thats how I did it, it works just fine, just make sure you solder to the right pins.
QUOTE(rob7bt @ Dec 27 2008, 05:51 PM)
3. Be sure to power on the drive, hit eject, power off the drive by unplugging it, then pushing it in half way, then plugging it back in, THEN you can run DVDKEY32 sucessfully.
if i do the above my drive closes again.
I have done it removing the pin next to the empty slots,but still i cant get the key!
I have been trying this since 23rd! i have now connected to a usb to serial device incase my it was a com port issue but still the same result.
I am sure it is the tray status is what is wrong.
I have always been able to retrieve the identify and inquiry.bin files.
Any help appreciated! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
I get an output in hyperterm using serial port and usb to serial convertor,nut never the key can someone explain in detail how to get the drive in the correct status i.e (powering the xbox 360 off or pull the connector out the back or pull the plug out the wall.)
Many Thanks
- Plug your 360 drive into the sata port on your computer but keep it powered through the xbox.
- attach your extractor tool to a serial port and molex if you power it like i did (attaching it to an empty slot in my comp)
- turn your pc on with the drive connected and powered by the xbox 360. (turn on a controller, and move the joystick once in a while to keep it from powering off)
- open jungletools and go to dvdkey
- press eject on your xbox drive, then unplug it from the xbox motherboard
- push the drive in half way, then plug the drive back into the 360 motherboard
- place your probe in the R707 hole on the drive
- run dvdkey grabber in jungle tools, then celebrate like a giddy school girl (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
QUOTE(scu11y69 @ Dec 27 2008, 07:23 PM)
ok i have a serial conector and on the other end a usb end thing is i dont want to cut the plug up so does any 1 know what colour wires r on what number conectors so i can just cut the usb end off ???
heres the pic http://img139.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sdc10514tn9.jpg
would be gratfull full a fast reply soldier iron on !!!!!!!
dont destroy the connector! get the CK3 usb driver from executor (here: http://team-xecuter.com/ck3/liteon_windows.htm) and just connect the points to the serial end and plug the usb end into an empty slot in your pc then dump.
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Dec 27 2008, 07:23 PM)
yaywoop here is a photo of my setup. Will this work? Anything missing? Please provide some feedback. Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://i39.tinypic.com/slmzop.jpg)
Thanks!
double check your transistor it looks like it is attached backwards, from the flat side the pin out ltop to bottom (with the cables pointing down) like this " |) " starting at the top pin is C, B, E.
i dont know how the usb plug draws power, if the red wire is a 5V also it looks ok.
I think you may have soldered the pins incorrectly on the serial port, look at my post above and check the connecting part of the serial adapter for the pin numbers.
other than that it should work ok.
Post by: brubaldu on December 27, 2008, 01:06:00 PM
(IMG:http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/2507/dibujo2au5.jpg)
This post has been edited by brubaldu: Dec 27 2008, 09:06 PM
Post by: LazyTank on December 27, 2008, 01:08:00 PM
QUOTE(brubaldu @ Dec 27 2008, 09:42 PM)
I made this diagram, its ok? or something is missing? thanks for the Guide.
looks good.
Post by: shme on December 27, 2008, 02:37:00 PM
(IMG:http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa182/mrshme/IMG_3641.jpg)
(IMG:http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa182/mrshme/IMG_3642.jpg)
^^^^ is this correct for the c945. Because i did not no which side was supposed to face up.
Post by: JBmtk on December 27, 2008, 03:07:00 PM
QUOTE(LazyTank @ Dec 27 2008, 02:58 PM)
double check your transistor it looks like it is attached backwards, from the flat side the pin out ltop to bottom (with the cables pointing down) like this " |) " starting at the top pin is C, B, E.
i dont know how the usb plug draws power, if the red wire is a 5V also it looks ok.
I think you may have soldered the pins incorrectly on the serial port, look at my post above and check the connecting part of the serial adapter for the pin numbers.
other than that it should work ok.
that circuit looks fine...you were not given the transistor part number so you don't know the pin layout.
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 27, 2008, 03:29:00 PM
So correct me if I'm wrong, B is the probe, C goes to the 5V USB, E goes to the ground?
Also my pin layout for the DB9 is the following.
That looks correct?
Post by: LazyTank on December 27, 2008, 03:38:00 PM
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Dec 28 2008, 12:05 AM)
It's a "NPN BC 337 Transistor". According to the first post the wiring is: C B E
So correct me if I'm wrong, B is the probe, C goes to the 5V USB, E goes to the ground?
Also my pin layout for the DB9 is the following.
That looks correct?
that circut looks correct.
QUOTE(shme @ Dec 27 2008, 11:13 PM)
Will what i made work?
^^^^ is this correct for the c945. Because i did not no which side was supposed to face up.
that does not look right, the middle on the transistor should be the base and be connected to your tx probe, the 1k and power go to the collector which was on the right for me using a n2222, and the E is the other pin which connects to pin 5 on the serial. Maybe you have a different pinout on your transistor, but you should double check it to be safe, maybe use a multimeter.
Post by: yaywoop on December 27, 2008, 05:51:00 PM
QUOTE(LazyTank @ Dec 28 2008, 10:14 AM)
that circut looks correct.
that does not look right, the middle on the transistor should be the base and be connected to your tx probe, the 1k and power go to the collector which was on the right for me using a n2222, and the E is the other pin which connects to pin 5 on the serial. Maybe you have a different pinout on your transistor, but you should double check it to be safe, maybe use a multimeter.
It looks right to me.. the pinout for a c946 is B C E
I used a c945 in this circuit which works http://i197.photobuc...360/adapter.jpg
Post by: JBmtk on December 27, 2008, 06:53:00 PM
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Dec 27 2008, 05:05 PM)
It's a "NPN BC 337 Transistor". According to the first post the wiring is: C B E
So correct me if I'm wrong, B is the probe, C goes to the 5V USB, E goes to the ground?
Also my pin layout for the DB9 is the following.
That looks correct?
Your pinout. Be sure to wire that up accordingly. Remember, not all transistors have the Base in the middle! Yours does, however.
Post by: meatballz on December 27, 2008, 06:57:00 PM
http://www.bg-electronics.de/datenblaetter...ren/2SC4204.pdf
I wired it up and tried testing it in hyperterminal but didn't get any output.
Post by: jdmjdm on December 28, 2008, 03:54:00 AM
i have make a rs232 to ttl converter. see below Picture
i Have connect the 3,3 Volt from my selfmade RS232 to the Board of the XBOX360, also the GND which seen in this picture
.Then i have two needle from my RS232 which i should connect it to the board of xbox360.
But i Don´t where to Place it !
Where i must connect the TxD from my RS232 / TTL to the xbox board ? > R707 ?
and the RxD to R708 ?
Can anybody shwo me where are the Ponits on the board
THX
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 28, 2008, 04:12:00 AM
Post by: sasan50cent on December 28, 2008, 05:06:00 AM
Post by: ^Ac|d^ on December 28, 2008, 07:46:00 AM
Can you check it out for me Yaywoop make sure I aint gonna blow anything up lol (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Ive used a 1.2k resistor for the spear side as I cant find a 1k anywhere I think I have the correct values on the lm317
to get 3.25v out heres the link to the datasheet for the LM317 I used (T0-92 variant)
LM317 Datasheet
^Ac|d^
(IMG:http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj411/DigiAcid/circuit2-1.jpg)
This post has been edited by ^Ac|d^: Dec 28 2008, 03:50 PM
Post by: rob7bt on December 28, 2008, 08:37:00 AM
HooorrraaaYYYYY!!!!!
I finally after 5 days i have 3 copies of a perfect key!!!
Thanks to Lazy Tank for the instructions about getting the drive in the right status.
I dont know why i have read all through this forum 3 or 4 times and missed the fact,that you dont have to remove any pins from the dvd drive coonector, which is what i have been doing all along!
Massive thanks to the original Poster of this !yaywoop!
Thankyou
Post by: cili0ne on December 28, 2008, 01:25:00 PM
I followed THIS (yaywoop's) scheme.
Post by: cili0ne on December 28, 2008, 02:10:00 PM
QUOTE(cili0ne @ Dec 28 2008, 10:01 PM)
I just made myself one of these cables and would like to test it with hyperterm. I think it was yaywoop who mentioned something about testing it out with a 3 volt power source, so I got my 2 AA batteries but do not know how to connect the batteries to test my cable.
I followed THIS (yaywoop's) scheme.
Ok, nevermind, I got it all connected now.
Is this what I should be getting in hyperterm?
Post by: dom0012 on December 28, 2008, 02:52:00 PM
it looked like null modem cable that yaywoop had in his pictures but its actually rs232. null modem crosslinks so it wont work.
This post has been edited by dom0012: Dec 28 2008, 10:53 PM
Post by: BioFUSION on December 28, 2008, 04:19:00 PM
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...p;#entry4403783
Thanks for any help/pointers you can give.
Post by: dom0012 on December 28, 2008, 09:59:00 PM
Post by: yifan_lu on December 28, 2008, 10:57:00 PM
Here's what it looks like right now:
(IMG:http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2032/screenhz3.png)
(Underneath the tape are the parts soldered together)
P.S: Is there any way to test the device before messing with the 360?
This post has been edited by yifan_lu: Dec 29 2008, 07:16 AM
Post by: LazyTank on December 29, 2008, 12:36:00 AM
QUOTE(dom0012 @ Dec 29 2008, 06:35 AM)
hrmm my key reader is failing the hyperterminal test and will not retrieve key.. maybe its the transistor i have?? its a 2n3904 from radio shack.. im confused.. so far ive only tried jungle flasher. if anyone has any pointers for me that would be appreciated.
I used that transistor (also from radioshack) and it worked fine. You might have heat damaged it, although it is likely your circut, not having a compatible via card, or you did not follow the dumping steps properly.
QUOTE(yifan_lu @ Dec 29 2008, 07:33 AM)
Hello, I'm a noob at this, and I think I followed the directions correctly, but can someone tell me if I did it right or what I need to change. Also I want to know if ground is needed? (I didn't bother). Thanks.
Here's what it looks like right now:
(Underneath the tape are the parts soldered together)
P.S: Is there any way to test the device before messing with the 360?
i can't see how you attached your transistor, though it looks good to go.
Post by: clixo on December 29, 2008, 02:23:00 AM
parts used = old data cable from nokia that was alreday transformed to work with fonera routers , i simply added the probe with 2 needles in eatch end of the cable and welted the ground cable, simple easy and and cheap
(IMG:http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/8747/dsc02697og0.th.jpg)
This post has been edited by clixo: Dec 29 2008, 10:24 AM
Post by: BioFUSION on December 29, 2008, 02:34:00 AM
Now just gotta figure out how to flash with a via card... Many thanks yaywoop.
Post by: gfreeman86 on December 29, 2008, 05:47:00 AM
DIT IT!!
My suggestions based on my experience:
- If DVDKey reports this error:
for SURE you have switched the Collector and Emitter of the transistor.
- If DVDKey says "nothing received from COM port" then check the power and ground of the circuit.
For example in my case, I linked the Ground from XBOX's case to PC's case and it didn't work.
I had to link the Ground from XBOX's case to the Ground of the Serial port! (Pin 5). Then it worked!
- Be really really careful on plugging the power cable from xbox to drive, it's very easy to plug it upside down!!!
- This procedure worked ad the first try for me (after I resolved my circuit's errors of course
):- Power on PC and bootstrap to windows (I used jungleflash)
- Power on XBOX with power connected to the drive and SATA disconnected.
- Eject drive tray with the usual eject button on consolle.
- Unplug the power cable from the drive while tray is opening so it stops half open.
- Remove eject pin from the power cable of the drive.
- Plug the power cable to the drive
- Connect SATA cable
- Connect probe to R707
- Run dvdkey/jungleflash or whatever you use to dump the damned key
- Enjoy this marvelous work from TEAM JUNGLE and yaywoop's zero cost key reader. You guys are GREAT.
Greetings.
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 29, 2008, 06:15:00 AM
But I don't have any grounding. Could that affect it?
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 29, 2008, 07:10:00 AM
http://hamradio.lakk...sistor_pinouts/
I will try switch it and see what happens...Also my probe was way to big to fit inside the hole. Does it need to rest on the hole or actually go inside?
Post by: cyanpixie on December 29, 2008, 07:17:00 AM
My big question, is there some pre-work that has to be done on the Lite-On, or should it just give up the key?
I have reversed the emitter and collector, I have changed pins on the serial but still the 0000 bad key error.
Can someone please check my probe?? I am using a C546B Transistor.My Probe
This post has been edited by cyanpixie: Dec 29 2008, 03:20 PM
Post by: gfreeman86 on December 29, 2008, 08:03:00 AM
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Dec 29 2008, 03:46 PM)
Also my probe was way to big to fit inside the hole. Does it need to rest on the hole or actually go inside?
The probe doesn't need to go inside the hole, it just have to rest on it.
QUOTE
My big question, is there some pre-work that has to be done on the Lite-On, or should it just give up the key?
No, if you follow the procedure described here, the Lite-On will give you the key for sure.
Post by: hippodude100 on December 29, 2008, 08:12:00 AM
QUOTE(cyanpixie @ Dec 29 2008, 03:53 PM)
Grrr, I am also having the same problem. Been hacking this now for 2 days and still getting the same results. Built 2 and still having the same problem.
My big question, is there some pre-work that has to be done on the Lite-On, or should it just give up the key?
I have reversed the emitter and collector, I have changed pins on the serial but still the 0000 bad key error.
Can someone please check my probe?? I am using a C546B Transistor.My Probe
and euhm where is the ground coming back from your batery pack
:s It is an open circuit ...
and measure it how much volt you get from it , since the bateries might be low
Post by: anilini on December 29, 2008, 08:47:00 AM
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 29, 2008, 09:14:00 AM
Post by: hippodude100 on December 29, 2008, 09:17:00 AM
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Dec 29 2008, 05:50 PM)
Thanks for your original post yaywoop, but I've fucking had enough of this. I can't get the key no matter what I try. I'm done fiddling and messing around. Was fun in the beginning but now I'm just over it.
post a pic of your setup, maybe you just forgot something (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
and between each failure you have to reboot your drive.
Post by: Elhamy on December 29, 2008, 12:12:00 PM
Post by: tnynyn on December 29, 2008, 01:39:00 PM
QUOTE(cyanpixie @ Dec 29 2008, 03:53 PM)
Grrr, I am also having the same problem. Been hacking this now for 2 days and still getting the same results. Built 2 and still having the same problem.
My big question, is there some pre-work that has to be done on the Lite-On, or should it just give up the key?
I have reversed the emitter and collector, I have changed pins on the serial but still the 0000 bad key error.
Can someone please check my probe?? I am using a C546B Transistor.My Probe
Check your resistors, try changing them out..was having the same problem when I wasn't using the correct resistor values..
QUOTE(Elhamy @ Dec 29 2008, 08:48 PM)
i give up . i don't know what is wrong , jungle flasher is not detecting my COM port any help please !!!
have the same problem. jungleflasher wont detect my com port, so i used dvdkey32
Post by: hippodude100 on December 29, 2008, 01:52:00 PM
QUOTE(tnynyn @ Dec 29 2008, 10:15 PM)
Check your resistors, try changing them out..was having the same problem when I wasn't using the correct resistor values..
have the same problem. jungleflasher wont detect my com port, so i used dvdkey32
the ground of the battery pack isn't connected ...
Post by: Elhamy on December 29, 2008, 02:47:00 PM
QUOTE(tnynyn @ Dec 29 2008, 11:15 PM)
have the same problem. jungleflasher wont detect my com port, so i used dvdkey32
yes im using dvdkey 32 built into jungle flasher
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 29 2008, 11:28 PM)
the ground of the battery pack isn't connected ...
what battery pack ? im using the red 5v wire from PSU molex
Post by: tomlissen on December 29, 2008, 03:06:00 PM
QUOTE(clixo @ Dec 29 2008, 10:59 AM)
here goes mine, fully tested and working as it is suposed to !
parts used = old data cable from nokia that was alreday transformed to work with fonera routers , i simply added the probe with 2 needles in eatch end of the cable and welted the ground cable, simple easy and and cheap
(IMG:http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/8747/dsc02697og0.th.jpg)
Hey
Could you explain this a bit more...
Where did you get the power from? And where did you put the transistor? I want to make the same as this one, as I have an old connectivty kit.
Thnx
Tommy
Post by: cyanpixie on December 29, 2008, 03:06:00 PM
QUOTE(hippodude100 @ Dec 29 2008, 04:48 PM)
and euhm where is the ground coming back from your batery pack
:s It is an open circuit ...
and measure it how much volt you get from it , since the bateries might be low
Doh! Of course - don't know where my brain was.
Connected it up and worked GREAT! Thanks for your help. Thanks to all. :-)
Post by: hippodude100 on December 29, 2008, 03:30:00 PM
GL on flashing your drive
Post by: tnynyn on December 29, 2008, 03:57:00 PM
QUOTE(Elhamy @ Dec 29 2008, 11:23 PM)
yes im using dvdkey 32 built into jungle flasher
what battery pack ? im using the red 5v wire from PSU molex
use the standalone dvdkey32, not jungleflasher itself...just know which sata port and com ports its connected to.
Post by: JBmtk on December 29, 2008, 05:54:00 PM
QUOTE(anilini @ Dec 29 2008, 11:23 AM)
does somebody get the extractor working on a nforce4 board? i've a a8n premium ....
yes. Mine is a ASUs a8n5x
Post by: sam2000 on December 30, 2008, 01:30:00 AM
Please somebody answer me ? I've removed my power cable then I've stripped 10 wires
From the female side which goes to xbox 360 mother-board, after that I returned them in a way that the two females are apposed to each other horizontally
According to yaywoop pictures:
Mother board female dvd female
1 1 --> 1 no wires
12 --> 2 no wires
9 --> 3
7 --> 5
. etc
But after I connected to the DVD it burned (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) so how the two females in that dvd power cable is connected also how can I repair the dvd or get the key by other means . (I have spear Samsung)
This post has been edited by sam2000: Dec 30 2008, 09:31 AM
Post by: Juvenal1228 on December 30, 2008, 01:45:00 AM
QUOTE(sam2000 @ Dec 30 2008, 10:06 AM)
Please somebody answer me ? I've removed my power cable then I've stripped 10 wires
From the female side which goes to xbox 360 mother-board, after that I returned them in a way that the two females are apposed to each other horizontally
According to yaywoop pictures:
Mother board female dvd female
1 1 --> 1 no wires
12 --> 2 no wires
9 --> 3
7 --> 5
. etc
But after I connected to the DVD it burned
so how the two females in that dvd power cable is connected also how can I repair the dvd or get the key by other means . (I have spear Samsung)if the dvd drive is toast and you don't have your keys then your xbox is now one hell of a paperweight.
sorry
Post by: edmoncu on December 30, 2008, 03:04:00 AM
Post by: scu11y69 on December 30, 2008, 05:17:00 AM
many thanks
Post by: sam2000 on December 30, 2008, 05:38:00 AM
Post by: sam2000 on December 30, 2008, 06:12:00 AM
(IMG:http://e.imagehost.org/0761/power.gif)
This post has been edited by sam2000: Dec 30 2008, 02:13 PM
Post by: Extigy on December 30, 2008, 06:50:00 AM
Post by: sith on December 30, 2008, 09:41:00 AM
.sith.
Post by: CopyLifted on December 30, 2008, 09:59:00 AM
I actually based my build on iamrickjames's pics except I am using power from molex and not usb.
My grounds were just relying on making sure the 360 case and pc case where touching and sata for the drive.
I see he has given up on it and I was about to as well, until I removed pin 3 from the DVD power plug. I kept getting all 00000's until removing pin 3 and it worked perfectly! Edit here: I use a broken 360 for power.
Thanks again for this. I was almost going to spend alot more until I hit up this thread and Radioshack for the 2222A resistor and a few transistors yesterday.
Thanks again.
This post has been edited by CopyLifted: Dec 30 2008, 06:09 PM
Post by: fugmenot on December 30, 2008, 10:51:00 AM
Which cable should I take to build the Reader ?
I would have had taken the left one and the right one for the "spear".
Post by: deffc0n on December 30, 2008, 11:27:00 AM
QUOTE(fugmenot @ Dec 30 2008, 07:27 PM)
sry for the nooby question (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Which cable should I take to build the Reader ?
(IMG:http://img3.imagebanana.com/img/gok857yz/thumb/CIMG1349.JPG)
I would have had taken the left one and the right one for the "spear". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
This left side is better (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Post by: clixo on December 30, 2008, 11:58:00 AM
QUOTE(tomlissen @ Dec 30 2008, 12:42 AM)
Hey
Could you explain this a bit more...
Where did you get the power from? And where did you put the transistor? I want to make the same as this one, as I have an old connectivty kit.
Thnx
Tommy
this type of reader as power from it self no need for power, only made a spear and gronded the reader , as easy as that, as o told this was a data cable from a nokia 6150, siemens cables also make the trick. check for " fonera unbrick cables " you will get some more info about this.
Post by: nitussi on December 30, 2008, 01:21:00 PM
QUOTE(dom0012 @ Dec 28 2008, 05:28 PM)
seems that a null modem cable doesnt work.. just in case anyone was wondering. going to try standard rs232 now and will post results.
it looked like null modem cable that yaywoop had in his pictures but its actually rs232. null modem crosslinks so it wont work.
A null cable does work, because i used a null cable on mine. Just cut the cable in half; find the half that has pins 2 and 5 properly(check continuity). Hook your circuit directly to the bare wires of 2 and 5 as described by the original poster. You don't need to use a seperate male/female db9 connector.
Just cut the cable and hook the circuit directly to the bare wires 2 and 5. You can also cut a regular serial cable in half, just make sure you have pins 2 and 5, and that the half of the cable you use fits your pc.
Use this male/female pinout if it helps. http://francis.courtois.free.fr/jc1/serial/Basics/DB9.html. Male on the left, female on the right. Most cables are marked 1 - 9 on the connecting end, you may have to look hard.
This post has been edited by nitussi: Dec 30 2008, 09:25 PM
Post by: nitussi on December 30, 2008, 01:59:00 PM
QUOTE(nitussi @ Dec 30 2008, 03:57 PM)
A null cable does work, because i used a null cable on mine. Just cut the cable in half; find the half that has pins 2 and 5 properly(check continuity). Hook your circuit directly to the bare wires of 2 and 5 as described by the original poster. You don't need to use a seperate male/female db9 connector.
Just cut the cable and hook the circuit directly to the bare wires 2 and 5. You can also cut a regular serial cable in half, just make sure you have pins 2 and 5, and that the half of the cable you use fits your pc.
Use this male/female pinout if it helps. http://francis.courtois.free.fr/jc1/serial/Basics/DB9.html. Male on the left, female on the right. Most cables are marked 1 - 9 on the connecting end, you may have to look hard.
Here is my circuit using a null cable cut in half, C945 transistor, 10k and 1k resistors all found in a old pc power supply.
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff45/nitussi/S6300025.jpg)
(IMG:http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff45/nitussi/S6300023.jpg)
Base goes to 10k resistor then to probe.
Emitter goes to pin 5 on the serial cable.
Collector splits into a Y. One end going to 1k resistor and then to 5volt power. The other end going strait to pin 2.
Thanks yaywoop!
This post has been edited by nitussi: Dec 30 2008, 10:14 PM
Post by: 3thirteen on December 30, 2008, 04:19:00 PM
Somehow i burned up my drive though when I tried to flash it, guess I'm in the market for a new drive now.
Post by: FalconLTD on December 30, 2008, 04:40:00 PM
Post by: ColdBrew on December 30, 2008, 07:14:00 PM
Just FYI for those that have problems. I spent around 6 hours trying to get the key using the first reader that was built.
The first reader's transistor went bad some time after the reader was built (it was good before assembly). What it showed when it was bad was .62v on the pin 2 of the serial port connector (should be 5v). Replaced the transistor and it got the key using jungle flasher software. I could NOT use DOSFLASH or DVDKEY (dos) because for some reason it would lock my computer up when accessing the Lite-On. I was able to do everything in the jungle flasher program.
Also attempted to use a reader with a home built connectivity kit (all in one). It worked fine with a Hitachi drive but plugged it in to a lite-on and it was toast. I never figured out what was wrong with the connector... But I'm not going to try to use it again.
Also on the first page it says to pull pin 9 to keep the tray from closing but actually you need to pull pin 3.
This post has been edited by ColdBrew: Dec 31 2008, 03:16 AM
Post by: Copephobia on December 30, 2008, 08:36:00 PM
EDIT: That's the transistor, right?
This post has been edited by Copephobia: Dec 31 2008, 04:46 AM
Post by: nitussi on December 30, 2008, 10:08:00 PM
QUOTE(Copephobia @ Dec 30 2008, 11:12 PM)
@Nitussi: What did you use for the base?
EDIT: That's the transistor, right?
Don't know what you mean, but the transistor I used is a C945. Do you mean for the probe that is hooked to the base by the thin yellow wire? Thats a regular pin.
Post by: Copephobia on December 30, 2008, 10:21:00 PM
QUOTE(nitussi @ Dec 31 2008, 12:44 AM)
Don't know what you mean, but the transistor I used is a C945. Do you mean for the probe that is hooked to the base by the thin yellow wire? Thats a regular pin.
I mean the black box that the wires connected to. And yeah that's the C945 that you mentioned.
Post by: edmoncu on December 30, 2008, 10:42:00 PM
(IMG:http://www.eurasia.nu/images/submitted/soulheaven_liteon_spoof_tutorial/dg-16d2s_uart.jpg)
This post has been edited by edmoncu: Dec 31 2008, 06:43 AM
Post by: 3thirteen on December 31, 2008, 12:11:00 AM
QUOTE(edmoncu @ Dec 31 2008, 07:18 AM)
@nitussi: when you use this method to get the key, do you need to solder R707 / R708 on the lite-on? aside from the probe, do you need to solder something on the lite-on power connector?
No
I know its a long thread and all but that has been answered a few times already. If you were required to solder any points on the drive, the tutorial would have told you that.
Post by: nitussi on December 31, 2008, 01:19:00 AM
QUOTE(Copephobia @ Dec 31 2008, 12:57 AM)
I mean the black box that the wires connected to. And yeah that's the C945 that you mentioned.
That's the three prong transistor-- a C945. One prong is called the Collector, the other is called Emitter, and the third is called the the Base. Think you need to start on page one of this thread.
This post has been edited by nitussi: Dec 31 2008, 09:36 AM
Post by: Harcroft on December 31, 2008, 01:51:00 AM
To make my extractor I used a telephone jack box (2x2" square box to house the components), some telephone wire for the rs232 connection, an old PSU master power switch, a loose momentary push button switch, an old multimeter lead, the DSUB9 port and the transistor from an old Serial mouse, resistors from an old xbox psu, and 2 original xbox yellow dvd power cables to connect between the DVD drive, and a 360. All scavenged parts.
It works with a reconnected TX trace on the drive (via the cable in the back of the drive), or with the mutimeter lead for the probe. It has it's own eject switch (open only), and eject disable switch to disable the drive closing automatically. No power is required from the PC. Anyway here's the design.
(IMG:http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t288/Harcroft/extrator.png)
I hope someone gets some use out of this schematic.
This post has been edited by Harcroft: Dec 31 2008, 09:53 AM
Post by: ar1stotle on December 31, 2008, 04:17:00 AM
(IMG:http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/8009/extractorpartsia3.th.jpg)
I noticed that the transistor I labeled was listed in the pic in the first post. However, I don't know if I can use the other 2 in case that one doesn't work. I'm not sure what I need to know about them. The first post said they were sensitive to heat, and although I tried my best to do it quickly, they all got hot enough to burn my fingers, so I'm not sure whether they're worth using or if I should try to pic some up at RadioShack (I'm assuming they carry them? I'm planning on splitting a cable from an old serial joystick for that part, and just using a needle for the probe.
So, do the parts I extracted look adequate for the job? Should I use them, or go to RadioShack to be safe (can anything bad happen if they're not perfect, anyway?)? And, I think I need to power the drive from the 360 since I don't have any other adapters. How exactly am I supposed to ground it? And do I have to worry about the pin 3 removal (because ripping apart the 360's power cable seems like a bad idea). Any other suggestions/things I might be missing?
Thanks all
Edit: Well, when I searched for the PN2222A, I got results saying it was NPN. With the others, I did not, so I assume they're not usable?
This post has been edited by ar1stotle: Dec 31 2008, 12:37 PM
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on December 31, 2008, 10:35:00 AM
QUOTE(CopyLifted @ Dec 30 2008, 07:35 PM)
Finally got around to doing this....after reading ALOT! THANK YOU OP!!! this is great!!
I actually based my build on iamrickjames's pics except I am using power from molex and not usb.
My grounds were just relying on making sure the 360 case and pc case where touching and sata for the drive.
I see he has given up on it and I was about to as well, until I removed pin 3 from the DVD power plug. I kept getting all 00000's until removing pin 3 and it worked perfectly! Edit here: I use a broken 360 for power.
Thanks again for this. I was almost going to spend alot more until I hit up this thread and Radioshack for the 2222A resistor and a few transistors yesterday.
Thanks again.
Well I'm glad I could help someone if not myself
The one thing I haven't done yet is removed pin 3 from the DVD power plug. Not sure how that fixes it but I will try for damn sure! What does pin 3 do and how does it affect it?I also replaced the USB power with the molex power, thinking that may be the issue. Also swithed the E and C wires to see if that would work...Still all zero's.
I think the pin 3 removal will be the last test I do...If that doesn't work I'll wait for my kit from DIYGadget. Thanks for the hint CopyLifted
PS: I'm also using a RROD console to power mine
Post by: ar1stotle on December 31, 2008, 12:42:00 PM
QUOTE(ar1stotle @ Dec 31 2008, 07:53 AM)
OK, I'm new to the scene like lots of people. Just got a 360 off ebay (apparently freshly repaired by MS, so new drive for me). I've soldered a PIC chip into my Wii, but other than that, my knowledge of electronics/circuits is fairly limited. So, before I start, I first want to make sure all these parts are valid. Here are the parts I was able to extract from a dead power supply that I *think* I can use:
I noticed that the transistor I labeled was listed in the pic in the first post. However, I don't know if I can use the other 2 in case that one doesn't work. I'm not sure what I need to know about them. The first post said they were sensitive to heat, and although I tried my best to do it quickly, they all got hot enough to burn my fingers, so I'm not sure whether they're worth using or if I should try to pic some up at RadioShack (I'm assuming they carry them? I'm planning on splitting a cable from an old serial joystick for that part, and just using a needle for the probe.
So, do the parts I extracted look adequate for the job? Should I use them, or go to RadioShack to be safe (can anything bad happen if they're not perfect, anyway?)? And, I think I need to power the drive from the 360 since I don't have any other adapters. How exactly am I supposed to ground it? And do I have to worry about the pin 3 removal (because ripping apart the 360's power cable seems like a bad idea). Any other suggestions/things I might be missing?
Thanks all
Edit: Well, when I searched for the PN2222A, I got results saying it was NPN. With the others, I did not, so I assume they're not usable?
I'm still waiting for a response to the above post (didn't want it to get lost on the last page) but another addition to it: I checked the transistor with a multimeter. The only time I get any reading on it is when the positive end is on the base and the negative end is on the collector (it reads ~13). Every other combination read 0. Did I burn it up?
Post by: nitussi on December 31, 2008, 01:50:00 PM
QUOTE(Harcroft @ Dec 31 2008, 04:27 AM)
Just wanted to add my schematic to the mix. It's based off of yaywoop's circuit. But my design to suit my own materials and needs.
To make my extractor I used a telephone jack box (2x2" square box to house the components), some telephone wire for the rs232 connection, an old PSU master power switch, a loose momentary push button switch, an old multimeter lead, the DSUB9 port and the transistor from an old Serial mouse, resistors from an old xbox psu, and 2 original xbox yellow dvd power cables to connect between the DVD drive, and a 360. All scavenged parts.
It works with a reconnected TX trace on the drive (via the cable in the back of the drive), or with the mutimeter lead for the probe. It has it's own eject switch (open only), and eject disable switch to disable the drive closing automatically. No power is required from the PC. Anyway here's the design.
I hope someone gets some use out of this schematic.
Nice setup! You got a picture of the finnished product.
Post by: xpa12 on December 31, 2008, 02:15:00 PM
Thanks mate - really appreciate the info and tips.
Post by: rob7bt on December 31, 2008, 02:18:00 PM
Have you tried using the xbox to power the drive?
You power up the xbox 360,then press the eject button on the front,then pull the dvd drive connector out the back,then push the tray back in half way(approx)and finally plug the dvd drive connector back in and start software (i used jungleflasher)then connector tx probe just before you press get key.
I tried pulling all pins all different sorts of ways and it never worked for me,everytime i do it like ablove i can read the key everytime!
Post by: JBmtk on December 31, 2008, 02:30:00 PM
QUOTE(ar1stotle @ Dec 31 2008, 06:53 AM)
OK, I'm new to the scene like lots of people. Just got a 360 off ebay (apparently freshly repaired by MS, so new drive for me). I've soldered a PIC chip into my Wii, but other than that, my knowledge of electronics/circuits is fairly limited. So, before I start, I first want to make sure all these parts are valid. Here are the parts I was able to extract from a dead power supply that I *think* I can use:
I noticed that the transistor I labeled was listed in the pic in the first post. However, I don't know if I can use the other 2 in case that one doesn't work. I'm not sure what I need to know about them. The first post said they were sensitive to heat, and although I tried my best to do it quickly, they all got hot enough to burn my fingers, so I'm not sure whether they're worth using or if I should try to pic some up at RadioShack (I'm assuming they carry them? I'm planning on splitting a cable from an old serial joystick for that part, and just using a needle for the probe.
So, do the parts I extracted look adequate for the job? Should I use them, or go to RadioShack to be safe (can anything bad happen if they're not perfect, anyway?)? And, I think I need to power the drive from the 360 since I don't have any other adapters. How exactly am I supposed to ground it? And do I have to worry about the pin 3 removal (because ripping apart the 360's power cable seems like a bad idea). Any other suggestions/things I might be missing?
Thanks all
Edit: Well, when I searched for the PN2222A, I got results saying it was NPN. With the others, I did not, so I assume they're not usable?
No! A PN2222A is NOT the same transistor as in the original post by yawoop. I have the same transistors and the pin outs are different. The transistor goes E-B-C with the flat part facing you from left to right. Here is the diagram. By the way, mine worked fine using that transistor.
Post by: ar1stotle on December 31, 2008, 06:30:00 PM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Dec 31 2008, 06:06 PM)
No! A PN2222A is NOT the same transistor as in the original post by yawoop. I have the same transistors and the pin outs are different. The transistor goes E-B-C with the flat part facing you from left to right. Here is the diagram. By the way, mine worked fine using that transistor.
Just to be on the safe side, I ran to RadioShack and picked up new ones just so I'd feel a little safer lol. Got a pack of 15 2N2222 NPN transistors (pinout labeled on the back of the box) and a serial connector. Going to try to put the thing together now, I'll post a pic before I try using it lol.
Post by: hujang on December 31, 2008, 06:36:00 PM
I am not sure if it is right, so can anyone give me some input on if it is or not?
(I guess I am gonna power the dvd with the xbox?)
Also, the probe goes into the hole by r707 right? And no soldering of any ind on the drive itself?
Thanks in advance.
Post by: nitussi on December 31, 2008, 08:09:00 PM
Post by: ar1stotle on December 31, 2008, 08:40:00 PM
I just realized that I forgot to make a ground wire, so I'll go ahead and add another wire to the red one and attach it to the molex connector (which I haven't added yet, either, because I wanted to check with yall that the 12guage kynar was satisfactory for for that). Thanks! And Happy New Year!
Post by: LazyTank on December 31, 2008, 09:21:00 PM
QUOTE(hujang @ Jan 1 2009, 03:12 AM)
Im gonna attempt to flash a lite-on pretty soon, and I thought it'd be best to makre sure I got everything right before I try so I dont break anything. I just made this:
I am not sure if it is right, so can anyone give me some input on if it is or not?
(I guess I am gonna power the dvd with the xbox?)
Also, the probe goes into the hole by r707 right? And no soldering of any ind on the drive itself?
Thanks in advance.
looks like a good circut to me
Post by: edmoncu on December 31, 2008, 09:22:00 PM
QUOTE(hujang @ Jan 1 2009, 04:12 AM)
Im gonna attempt to flash a lite-on pretty soon, and I thought it'd be best to makre sure I got everything right before I try so I dont break anything. I just made this:
I am not sure if it is right, so can anyone give me some input on if it is or not?
(I guess I am gonna power the dvd with the xbox?)
Also, the probe goes into the hole by r707 right? And no soldering of any ind on the drive itself?
Thanks in advance.
i didn't realized that it seems so very simple!
i just have a question though regarding on the serial port... what does the other end of the serial cable looked? is it a null-modem or a USB port?
thank you.
Post by: ar1stotle on January 01, 2009, 03:29:00 AM
QUOTE(ar1stotle @ Jan 1 2009, 12:16 AM)
OK, so I'm also looking for approval for my creation. Here are some pics:
I just realized that I forgot to make a ground wire, so I'll go ahead and add another wire to the red one and attach it to the molex connector (which I haven't added yet, either, because I wanted to check with yall that the 12guage kynar was satisfactory for for that). Thanks! And Happy New Year!
Here's the near final product... I noticed that the connector I used was connected to the 12v, not the 5v, so I've fixed that, and I think it's ready for use. Just want it double checked lol
Post by: ImRickJamesB1tch on January 01, 2009, 05:55:00 AM
QUOTE(rob7bt @ Dec 31 2008, 11:54 PM)
ImRickJamesB1tch
Have you tried using the xbox to power the drive?
You power up the xbox 360,then press the eject button on the front,then pull the dvd drive connector out the back,then push the tray back in half way(approx)and finally plug the dvd drive connector back in and start software (i used jungleflasher)then connector tx probe just before you press get key.
I tried pulling all pins all different sorts of ways and it never worked for me,everytime i do it like ablove i can read the key everytime!
QUOTE(LazyTank @ Jan 1 2009, 01:20 AM)
try the minitutorial i posted a few pages back, it sounds like all you need to do is power xbox on, eject drive, unplug drive from the xbox mobo, push in half way, plug back into the xbox mobo, then touch tx to r707 and hit extract.
Thats exactly what I was doing but to no avail. I tried dvdkey32 and XtractorReader but still all zero's. Only thing i haven't tried is removing pin 3...So hopefully that is the reason for no keys being read?
Post by: yaywoop on January 01, 2009, 06:42:00 AM
it will be back up in 3 days, the new tutorial might be sooner if they get hosted on XS Filter - 043008s
Post by: CopyLifted on January 01, 2009, 01:00:00 PM
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Jan 1 2009, 05:31 AM)
Thats exactly what I was doing but to no avail. I tried dvdkey32 and XtractorReader but still all zero's. Only thing i haven't tried is removing pin 3...So hopefully that is the reason for no keys being read?
Try removing pin 3 and report back please!!
All I know about pin 3 is that it's what keeps the drive from closing. Removing it and putting the tray half way in was the only way I got the key. Pin 3 connected always gave me all zeros. Removing pin 3 gave me the key right off the bat.
I can't really explain it, but it worked for me.
Edit: I used jungleflasher to get the key btw.
Post by: BioFUSION on January 01, 2009, 01:19:00 PM
Taking out pin 3 is such a needless hassle.
Post by: Tommy 2 Gunz on January 01, 2009, 01:35:00 PM
1. Does it matter what type of wire you use to build the tool? I was using wire from an old PSU.
2. How would I be able to test if the resistors/transistors are in good shape after me soldering them? Im not skilled in the soldering field at all so it might be that I heated up the transistor to much during the process.
3. How would I test the finished product with a multimeter? I have a digital reader and I would like to test it using that instead of HyperTerminal.
All help would be appreciated even tho there is enough information in the thread.
Post by: ar1stotle on January 01, 2009, 01:40:00 PM
Post by: LazyTank on January 01, 2009, 02:23:00 PM
QUOTE(ImRickJamesB1tch @ Jan 1 2009, 02:31 PM)
Thats exactly what I was doing but to no avail. I tried dvdkey32 and XtractorReader but still all zero's. Only thing i haven't tried is removing pin 3...So hopefully that is the reason for no keys being read?
did you make sure to install the modified serial port drivers and serial to usb custom drivers if you're using one?
if so double check your circut and make sure the pinouts are correct on the transistor and on the serial port.
Post by: JBmtk on January 01, 2009, 05:46:00 PM
QUOTE(ar1stotle @ Jan 1 2009, 06:05 AM)
Here's the near final product... I noticed that the connector I used was connected to the 12v, not the 5v, so I've fixed that, and I think it's ready for use. Just want it double checked lol
you only need to tap into your PC's 5V line, not the grounding line as well. The true ground that all your components will use is the ground on your serial port. Other than that, your circuit looks OK, but it is hard to see what is going on near your transistor. Just double check your pins. You can leave that black wire there though if you want...it shouldn't make a difference
Post by: ar1stotle on January 01, 2009, 06:34:00 PM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Jan 1 2009, 09:22 PM)
you only need to tap into your PC's 5V line, not the grounding line as well. The true ground that all your components will use is the ground on your serial port. Other than that, your circuit looks OK, but it is hard to see what is going on near your transistor. Just double check your pins. You can leave that black wire there though if you want...it shouldn't make a difference
When you say I can leave the black wire, you mean the molex ground? Because the black wire coming from the transistor area is going to the serial connection. But basically, from what you're saying, I shouldn't need any more grounds at least, right?
So if I understood correctly, I really don't need to change anything, and I should be able to try it out later? Awesome, thanks!
Post by: werejag on January 01, 2009, 06:50:00 PM
Post by: FatSean on January 01, 2009, 07:19:00 PM
From the many hours I spent messing around, it seems as if the important part is power cycling the drive with the tray half open. That's all. This is what I did: Connect drive's power to the 360 and the SATA to the comp. Power on the 360. Power on the PC, boot into DOS. Eject the drive using the 360. Push it back in to the halfway point. Pull the drive's power cable, wait a couple seconds, reconnect the drive's power cable. Plug in your serial cable, plug in the power for your cable (molex in my case) and connect the probe to the drive. Run dosflash, and you should see the drive...
A piece of advise.... SCREW WINDOWS. Take the time to make a dos boot disk/drive and you will avoid a lot of hassle from apps freezing, bad erases, drive not being recognized, etc.
Post by: JBmtk on January 01, 2009, 08:23:00 PM
QUOTE(ar1stotle @ Jan 1 2009, 09:10 PM)
When you say I can leave the black wire, you mean the molex ground? Because the black wire coming from the transistor area is going to the serial connection. But basically, from what you're saying, I shouldn't need any more grounds at least, right?
So if I understood correctly, I really don't need to change anything, and I should be able to try it out later? Awesome, thanks!
right, I mean the black wire from your molex. Test out your circuit the way it is now and see if it works.
Post by: ar1stotle on January 02, 2009, 12:38:00 AM
Just tested mine out. When I turned it on and saw the 4 red lights, I started stressing out and had one of those moments like in Wanted lol. But I was able to successfully extract the key 3 times (all matching). The only problems I ran into were that the 360 wanted to turn itself off after about 5 minutes (probably because there was no AV cable) so my first 2 files (that weren't the key) were all 0s. But I just restarted the 360 and did it again, but maybe if you plug in the AV cables you won't have that issue.
And I'll add: removing pin 3 is NOT necessary. What I did was eject the drive, push it in, then hold it when it was still ejected. After about a second, it decided to push back, but I just held it in the same place. Then it just stood still. Disconnect and reconnect the power, and it's stuck in the eject position and you're ready to go.
I haven't tried a backup yet, but it still plays originals so I have hope! Thanks again!
On a side note, I am curious what happens with Live stuff now... but that should probably go in another thread.
Post by: ar1stotle on January 02, 2009, 01:09:00 AM
Post by: me_ntal on January 02, 2009, 03:48:00 AM
Post by: pdeg69 on January 02, 2009, 03:48:00 AM
Post by: CopyLifted on January 02, 2009, 04:01:00 AM
I was going to give up on it until I read the OP's other thread/tut. In there is said that he couldn't get a key without removing pin 3. I did that and it worked.
Like I said, just reporting what worked for me. That is all.
Post by: wtfisausername on January 02, 2009, 05:08:00 AM
http://i163.photobuc...ft/extrator.png
that works but i got confused.
Also a IRF510 Power MOSFET Transistor wont work will it?
Post by: vincatzero on January 02, 2009, 05:25:00 AM
any ideas?
my npn transistor says tip3055 on the package and cc1jx w on the chip itself. shouldn't be the problem right?
Post by: vincatzero on January 02, 2009, 05:54:00 AM
Post by: bmw220 on January 02, 2009, 08:24:00 AM
Jungle flasher was perfect in my case as my setup does not have option to boot from usb and creating less than 32GB partition was the last resort.
Post by: zylex on January 02, 2009, 11:39:00 AM
I will try to be as detailed as possible, some of this may not be important.
I keep getting sega 54 com port seem anyways good message in dos
my chipset is nforce 2, onboard sil3112a sata controller. I also disabled onboard sata controller and used a sil 3512 pci card and still get the same error.
I used the pci card on a different pc, i get the same error in dos.
Neither sata controllers recognize my drive. using dosflash16 1.7, i do not get mtk vendor failed error. It says no atapi drive found and ends.
dvdkey 1.2 i keep getting sega 54 com port seems anyway good and it ends, no other messages.
I am able to get identify and inquiry bin from dos and in hex editor they seem to be valid. In windows dvdkey32 gets the first bin and freezes after getting second. the second bin (im not sure if it is inquiry or identify) displays all 00000's for the information. I have to "ctrl c" to stop it, otherwise it just sits there.
ck3tool_v1.2.4 is able to get past identify and inquiry bin retrieval but displays cccc's as the key.
Most other windows tools dont list my sata port. So i cant use them.
I've tried most of the sequences for key retrieval that people have posted here to work for them. I am using the xbox to power my drive. Just to be specific, this is one of the sequences i have followed. com port is 1 and 3f8/irq4.
1. power pc to dos, nothing connected. no cd drive, no hard drive or floppy. I use usb
2. turn on xbox
3. eject drive
4. pull pin 3
5. push drive half way in
6. turn off xbox. ( i use the switch on the front)
7. connect serial to pc
8. connect sata to xbox and pc
9. plug in 5v molex to power circuit
10. turn on xbox
11. apply tx to r707
12 dvdkey myport in dos
So far i have built two different circuits. First was one with scavenged parts and the second from radioshack.
In hyperterminal and real term when tx is tapped on 5v volts i get funky symbols.
When testing the circuit with volt meter, i get 4.98v when tx is on nothing and when tx is on 3.3v i get 0.66 volts. (im not sure if this is the problem or not)
Other things i have noticed.
When drive is connect normally to xbox and probing with realterm, r708 gives me constant 000's. r707 does not display anything. r707 does not display anything in realterm on normal boot, tray half opened, or power cycling.
My drive reads and plays games fine.
If you need more information or clarification just let me know. Thanks in advance.
Post by: SzczurekPB88 on January 02, 2009, 11:46:00 AM
Second: I DID IT!! I have flashed my Liteon
I didn't have to remove pin 3. I eject dvd, turn power dvd off, punch dvd inside in a half way, turn power on, stick probe to r707 and got the key
Then i flashed my liteon.I use Jungleflasher, and it didn't crash.
BTW - when we have 1 second to turn dvd off and turn it on - I do this in 4 second, and it work
PS. Sorry for my english
Post by: vincatzero on January 02, 2009, 02:10:00 PM
QUOTE(vincatzero @ Jan 2 2009, 02:01 PM)
i always get an error in dosflash. it doesn't give me a bad key, always an error. it also says unknown flash chip in dos, and mtk vendor intro failed in windows.
any ideas?
my npn transistor says tip3055 on the package and cc1jx w on the chip itself. shouldn't be the problem right?
anybody?
Post by: kidman64 on January 02, 2009, 03:05:00 PM
Post by: vincatzero on January 02, 2009, 04:25:00 PM
QUOTE(kidman64 @ Jan 2 2009, 11:41 PM)
dosflash isn't suppose to give you the key, use dvdkey for that
ok. i switched to dvdkey and it gives me a key, only it's all zeros in the last 4 pairs of numbers.
before that it looks like the key may be good (although i ran it 3 times and 1 time it was very slightly different).
any ideas?
Post by: kidman64 on January 02, 2009, 04:34:00 PM
QUOTE(vincatzero @ Jan 3 2009, 01:01 AM)
ok. i switched to dvdkey and it gives me a key, only it's all zeros in the last 4 pairs of numbers.
before that it looks like the key may be good (although i ran it 3 times and 1 time it was very slightly different).
any ideas?
well you have to try a few more times untill you'll be able to get what looks like a valid key, because once you erase the drive (before flashing it) there's no comming back
Post by: bungs on January 02, 2009, 08:24:00 PM
I run dvdkey32, It gets the identity and inquiry files, and it gets all the key EXCEPT for the last 6 digits. It constantly returns zero's for the last 6 digits and only the last 6 digits, it seems to find the rest ok.
Any ideas?
p.s Yes i've read the whole thread and was up till 5am trying to figure it out. I find it odd that in the 50 or so times i've tried to get the key, it's returned the exact same key but is still says it's not correct.
Post by: JBmtk on January 02, 2009, 11:22:00 PM
QUOTE(bungs @ Jan 2 2009, 11:00 PM)
I'm having problems with mine... I've checked the circuit about 20 times (no exaggeration) and it is correct 100%. It shows up random characters in hyperterminal.
I run dvdkey32, It gets the identity and inquiry files, and it gets all the key EXCEPT for the last 6 digits. It constantly returns zero's for the last 6 digits and only the last 6 digits, it seems to find the rest ok.
Any ideas?
p.s Yes i've read the whole thread and was up till 5am trying to figure it out. I find it odd that in the 50 or so times i've tried to get the key, it's returned the exact same key but is still says it's not correct.
try it in dosflash32 (windows). If you haven't already, run dvdkey16. Are you sure you are holding TX during the whole test? Maybe use a different probe and/or transistor.
Post by: JBmtk on January 02, 2009, 11:56:00 PM
QUOTE(zylex @ Jan 2 2009, 02:15 PM)
I have been at this for days now. If someone could save me from buying new sheetrock because i am about to punch a hole in the wall. I would be very happy.
I will try to be as detailed as possible, some of this may not be important.
I keep getting sega 54 com port seem anyways good message in dos
my chipset is nforce 2, onboard sil3112a sata controller. I also disabled onboard sata controller and used a sil 3512 pci card and still get the same error.
I used the pci card on a different pc, i get the same error in dos.
Neither sata controllers recognize my drive. using dosflash16 1.7, i do not get mtk vendor failed error. It says no atapi drive found and ends.
dvdkey 1.2 i keep getting sega 54 com port seems anyway good and it ends, no other messages.
I am able to get identify and inquiry bin from dos and in hex editor they seem to be valid. In windows dvdkey32 gets the first bin and freezes after getting second. the second bin (im not sure if it is inquiry or identify) displays all 00000's for the information. I have to "ctrl c" to stop it, otherwise it just sits there.
ck3tool_v1.2.4 is able to get past identify and inquiry bin retrieval but displays cccc's as the key.
Most other windows tools dont list my sata port. So i cant use them.
I've tried most of the sequences for key retrieval that people have posted here to work for them. I am using the xbox to power my drive. Just to be specific, this is one of the sequences i have followed. com port is 1 and 3f8/irq4.
1. power pc to dos, nothing connected. no cd drive, no hard drive or floppy. I use usb
2. turn on xbox
3. eject drive
4. pull pin 3
5. push drive half way in
6. turn off xbox. ( i use the switch on the front)
7. connect serial to pc
8. connect sata to xbox and pc
9. plug in 5v molex to power circuit
10. turn on xbox
11. apply tx to r707
12 dvdkey myport in dos
So far i have built two different circuits. First was one with scavenged parts and the second from radioshack.
In hyperterminal and real term when tx is tapped on 5v volts i get funky symbols.
When testing the circuit with volt meter, i get 4.98v when tx is on nothing and when tx is on 3.3v i get 0.66 volts. (im not sure if this is the problem or not)
Other things i have noticed.
When drive is connect normally to xbox and probing with realterm, r708 gives me constant 000's. r707 does not display anything. r707 does not display anything in realterm on normal boot, tray half opened, or power cycling.
My drive reads and plays games fine.
If you need more information or clarification just let me know. Thanks in advance.
your sequence of connecting your xbox to your pc seems to be OK. If you have the inquerty and identity, then you no longer need to connect to your sata port since the key is transmitted via serial. When you connect your Tx to 5v, then yes, you should see some funky symbols. I would double check your transitor pins...what is your model number? Are you sure that you are putting your probe in the right hole (lol)?
Post by: sasan50cent on January 03, 2009, 02:44:00 AM
what will i do ?!
will i open the drive ?
can you explain more ?
Post by: zylex on January 03, 2009, 09:38:00 AM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Jan 3 2009, 02:32 AM)
your sequence of connecting your xbox to your pc seems to be OK. If you have the inquerty and identity, then you no longer need to connect to your sata port since the key is transmitted via serial. When you connect your Tx to 5v, then yes, you should see some funky symbols. I would double check your transitor pins...what is your model number? Are you sure that you are putting your probe in the right hole (lol)?
The first npn transitor was a c945. The one i am using now is a nte172a that i bought from the store. On the box it shows ECB.
I'm putting my probe in the hole in front of r707, tx. I checked my transistor pins a number of times. I even flipped them around backwards, but i never got it to display anything in hyperterminal or realterm with pins incorrectly placed.
I watched a video on the liteon extraction process, and the guy probed the spot with black box in the picture below. In real term he was getting a constant output of 000's. He did this with the drive closed. He said, he did this to see if his adapter was reading the drive, although he was using an adapter with max3232 chip. Then he proceeded to extract the key the normal way. When i probe that spot, i dont read anything in realterm. That seems to be important, to me. I am not sure though.
Also is 0.66 volts on the serial okay when the probe is on 3.2 volts?
QUOTE(sasan50cent @ Jan 3 2009, 05:20 AM)
zylex , what do you mean "apply tx to r707" ?!
what will i do ?!
will i open the drive ?
can you explain more ?
I mean apply the probe from your circuit to tx, which is the hole in front of r707.
Post by: ddsdavey on January 03, 2009, 10:04:00 AM
These are the kind of clips im HOPING will be sufficient.
Cheers.
Post by: STICKY_BUD on January 03, 2009, 02:52:00 PM
QUOTE(ddsdavey @ Jan 3 2009, 09:40 AM)
Hi,wow what a great thread.Im far too lazy for all this so i bought a Ck3 but im making my own probe by splicing a wire into wire 11 of the dvd cable.My question is to do with the wire used for the probe.Ive been told that it needs to be between 28 & 32 awg,i have a croc clip that ive cut 1 of the clips off,is this wire strong enough to conduct the necessary power needed for the probe to do its job?
These are the kind of clips im HOPING will be sufficient.
Cheers.
i made my probe with a length of 22awg(solid core) kynar... no needle was required and the stripped end slips right in the via hole.
Post by: gokuguy on January 03, 2009, 05:02:00 PM
QUOTE(gokuguy @ Jan 3 2009, 01:03 AM)
Thanks for this great thread. Having a problem with mine and was wondering if someone could help me. I've got it all built, tested all the connections with a multimeter and it says they're good. When I got to try it out, I start up hyperterminal, connect it to the 5V, and I get one random character displayed in the terminal window. Also, sometimes in the bottom of the window it will list it as "2400 8-N-1" and other times it will just keep auto detect listed. After that, I get no response from it, and DVDkey32 doesn't seem to be able to find it either. Any suggestions?
Not sure what I did differently, but now when I connect it to the 5V, hyperterminal starts spewing out random characters at a pretty constant rate...forever. Does this mean it's working?
Post by: solin on January 03, 2009, 06:00:00 PM
QUOTE(wtfisausername @ Jan 2 2009, 01:44 PM)
This is a very good tutuorial, but im wondering how to make a homemade power adapter for the Xbox drive, i know i could use the xbox but i dont want to do that. Ive look around this thread but its getting late and 37 pages is alot to look through. The only picture i saw was for the liteon key reader and
http://i163.photobuc...ft/extrator.png
that works but i got confused.
Also a IRF510 Power MOSFET Transistor wont work will it?
I' used an old PSU from a very old computer (ATX-250) to power the drive and it works great.
As for the transisitor, any npn transistor will do........
Post by: Shroomer on January 03, 2009, 06:37:00 PM
"it could also be that your serial port doesn't like the non negative voltages".
How does one figure this out? i've been racking my brain on this drive for 3 days now and think its the only possible problem. I've read this thread upside down have done ALL the troubleshooting listed here, used every key dumping software available, replaced c945 and 2n4401 transistors several times and resistors...ive torn this diy rig apart atleast 10x and rebuilt...still all 0000 or cccc.
I've tried pin 3 in and out, manual eject...trays always half open.
I had to bridge r707 point to the big tx pad cuz my probe was starting to dig a hole in the via from countless attempts of trying to grab this god damd key.
How can you tell if your serial port just simply wont work with setup?
Thx.
Post by: wtfisausername on January 04, 2009, 01:24:00 AM
The 5V is from the fan connector, the red in the plug goes to the red wire in the comptuer's power supply, it used to go to the comptuer's yellow wire which is 12V, so i swap it around.
Thanks in advance
Post by: leaverus on January 04, 2009, 07:47:00 PM
Post by: dom0012 on January 04, 2009, 08:06:00 PM
QUOTE(leaverus @ Jan 5 2009, 04:23 AM)
Just want to say my thanks to yaywoop! Finally got it after two days of headache - all i was getting was either BSOD or all 00000s or sega: 54 in dvdkey. I tried various methods of half-closure on the drive: pulling pin 3, pushing in the manual drive eject, and pulling power while ejecting; nothing worked. Finally went out and bought a new transistor for $1.29; still nothing. Then, pulling power of the drive while CLOSING rather than while EJECTING did it. Got the same key on repeated trials of dvdkey32, jungleflasher, and xtractorreader. After that, 5mins to re-flash the drive and now confirmed working of originals and backups on my new jasper. Thanks a lot, yaywoop! All it cost was me a little over a buck. Hahaha.
so you pushed tray in and pulled power plug? did you take pin 3 out still? because wouldnt the tray close if you didnt?
Post by: dom0012 on January 04, 2009, 08:24:00 PM
QUOTE(leaverus @ Jan 5 2009, 04:49 AM)
No i didn't push the tray in manually. I just pressed the little close/eject button on the front of the console to open it, then pressed it again and while the drive is automatically closing i pulled the entire power to the drive and then re-plugged it - drive stayed half-closed and presumably in mode-b. I didn't pull pin 3 and no the tray didn't close when i re-inserted the power plug.
ah ok ill have to try that.. ive been having no luck either so i ordered the damn connectivity kit..
Post by: JBmtk on January 04, 2009, 09:27:00 PM
1. Eject dvd drive by pushing eject on the 360
2. Pull out pin 3 (while 360 on!)
3. Push tray half way in
4. Shutdown and connect SATA to PC<--->360 DVD drive
Your 360 should be blinking green in other words when you perform the tests.
Post by: DavGerm4 on January 04, 2009, 11:07:00 PM
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 04, 2009, 11:33:00 PM
im having a problem making this thing i have 3 differnt transistors
AN7805 is one
A1020 is another one
and L7806CV is another
i look them up online for the C B E configuration and all i can find is
1- input
2- common
3- output
what wire connects to where on this lol its a little confusing but it is simple enough to all be put togather
thanks in advanced for any help anyone could give me
i already have the 1k and 10k resistors
Post by: DavGerm4 on January 05, 2009, 12:47:00 AM
QUOTE(3thirteen @ Jan 5 2009, 01:54 AM)
Why you guys trying so hard not to take out pin 3? It's simple and just takes a small flat head.
I don't know why someone would want to do it that way, when someone who's new to modding could break something. I mean the way I did it worked, and it was simple. People are just doing it the pin 3 way, because that was what was first done.
Post by: przemek608 on January 05, 2009, 05:53:00 AM
I used this schematic
But all time i have bad key !!!What i do wrong ???
Post by: wildwild on January 05, 2009, 08:00:00 AM
QUOTE(Pepsi2007 @ Jan 5 2009, 08:09 AM)
hey could someone please give me a healing hand here i have a nforce 4 chipset which i see it shoulden't be a problem to flash the new lite-on drive - i flash all the other drives on here with absolutely no problem so now on with it.
im having a problem making this thing i have 3 differnt transistors
AN7805 is one
A1020 is another one
and L7806CV is another
i look them up online for the C B E configuration and all i can find is
1- input
2- common
3- output
what wire connects to where on this lol its a little confusing but it is simple enough to all be put togather
thanks in advanced for any help anyone could give me
i already have the 1k and 10k resistors
It looks like you have voltage regulators. DO NOT USE them or they will kill the drive. You need to look for an NPN transistor of any pin-out. Just be careful with the connection.
Good luck
Post by: przemek608 on January 05, 2009, 10:20:00 AM
Thanks All!!
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 05, 2009, 12:16:00 PM
Post by: Kensaku on January 05, 2009, 01:15:00 PM
I actually think my problem has to do with the circuit i built.. but i have no idea how to test it in realterm. (we're supposed to probe r707 hole right? when try is half open? i've done that and even tested the voltage, but it remains at 3.3ish volts and never goes down to a low of 0.6ish volts)
i can post screenshots if that helps to troubleshoot my setup. (see my previous post for details of my problem
)
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 05, 2009, 01:36:00 PM
now when i use jungle flasher it tells me invaled key and the key starts with a 3C then when i jump over to CK3 Tool V1.2.4 it grabs all files with no problem what so ever and also give me a key of
CK3 Tool
BE9FEFBF83B8................. and some other numbers not sure if i should be posting the whole dvd key or what not ya know?
Jungle Flasher
BE9FEFBF83F...........
what am i doing wrong here i do the whole step by step process in what yous say
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 05:00:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 4 2008, 03:55 PM)
basically you power the circuit with 5v as you would when using it. then you put a multimeter on the serial connector and apply 3v to the tx input and see what the multimeter reads, it should read 0v when the 3v is applied and 5v when there is no input.
the order you do things is quite important. see the origional post for the order i used to get it working.
I found that if you have the serial connected to the Tx pin on the dvd drive while booting, it never works. i only connect the serial just before i press enter to execute dvdkey.
also try powering up the xbox at the same time as the pc
Hey I've tried this and I'm not getting 0v when the 3v is applied (I am getting 5v when there is no input). I'm gettting around 3 - 3.5 volts when i have applied the 3v to the tx input.
Any suggestions? Have i gotten the collector and emitter mixed?
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 05:28:00 PM
What does this mean
Post by: Faraz2C on January 05, 2009, 07:26:00 PM
I dont have one of those multimetres and I wanna be safe so I dont fry my drive.
THANKSA
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 07:55:00 PM
QUOTE(Kensaku @ Jan 6 2009, 04:11 AM)
@Faraz2C:
looks correct as long as the transistor your using is a npn, the connecting to dvd ground or xbox case is optional, i don't think it does anything performance wise.
@canusaybimmy:
I don't get the testing part either, where are we hooking up the mulitmeter anywaz? im so confused, "we put the multimeter on the serial connector" (uhhh wheres that? we put our multimeter on which pin of the serial connector? sorry for the noob question) how do we even apply 3V to Tx? 2 AA batteries and touch that with our probe?
Well for connecting to the serial connector, testing over pins 5 and two should give you a voltage of 5 volts (as long as there is nothign applied to the tx) because pin 5 is ground and pin 2is connected to the 5v from the molex connector.
I just connected 5v to the tx input to see if the voltage changed at all (at the serial connector) and nothign budged. Is my transistor the problem? Does this problem sound familiar to anyone?
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 08:25:00 PM
WHen i have the serial cable unplugged from the computer (the other side) i get 5volts at the pins 2 and 5 where i make the connections (with tx input connected to nothing). When i plug the serial cable into the computer and then test, i get no voltage at pins 2 and 5.
Any ideas?
Post by: topspot on January 05, 2009, 08:37:00 PM
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 08:45:00 PM
I guess maybe im not powering on the unit at the right time. There's so many people that have done it so many different ways it seems like almost any way works lol.
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 05, 2009, 09:07:00 PM
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 09:26:00 PM
How did everyone cycle their drives so that this workeddddd. i've been trying this both in windows and dos.
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 10:22:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 15 2008, 06:27 AM)
you either have made a mistake in your circuit or your transistor is damaged
and are you sure you are connecting to the right wires on the dvd drive?
I updated the main schematic on the first post. hopefully it is a lot clearer.
wireS ?? There's supposed to be more than one touching the r707 hole? I thought it was just a wire from the transistor's B connection connected to a 10k resistor?
What else is supposed to be connected?
Post by: Kensaku on January 05, 2009, 10:55:00 PM
But let me try to understand this, yaywoop said in his first post that we only need the transmitting part Tx and not Rx because the computer isn't transmitting anything to the dvd, only recieving the key. So if i placed my multimeter probe at r707 hole, and my negative lead on the xbox360 case, i'll be able to measure the voltage, so shouldn't this voltage be changing from low to high and stuff? (meaning voltage should be changing?)
Post by: canusaybimmy on January 05, 2009, 11:12:00 PM
So I ran tested again. I have a multimeter hooked up to my pin 2 and ground the entire time.
Start up jungleflasher (I connect the tx and the voltage drops to 0)
WHen i actually hit get key (with tx connected) the voltage jumps to almost 5v and then basically stops after it's done telling "key does not look great".
Same basic thing happen on DOs using DOskey16.
My question is, is this supposed to be happening? I know for sure my I have the correct com port selected. BUt is this supposed to happen? I thought the voltage was supposed to drop to 0?
Anyone wanna chime in on IF im doing soemthing wrong?
Post by: HTGamingPC on January 05, 2009, 11:31:00 PM
I made the cable from this thread without any issues and used it to get my key four times. It was the same with both CK3tool and DVDkey1.7. I didn't get any error messages and everything from that point on seemed to go well.
When I put in games, they don't work. DVDs work fine. Is it worth trying to read the key again, or did I nuke it when I erased the flash before flashing?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Post by: gewgaw111 on January 05, 2009, 11:43:00 PM
QUOTE
I'm not sure if it shoudl be chaning...but yes if u were to measure the voltage there (at the r707 hole) I"m pretty sure ull find something like 3 volts? 3 - 3.5 something liek that.
um yes the voltage to pin 2 should be changing when the drive is sending the key. If the voltage wasn't changing there would be no transmission happening?
QUOTE
My question is, is this supposed to be happening? I know for sure my I have the correct com port selected. BUt is this supposed to happen? I thought the voltage was supposed to drop to 0?
drop to 0 when?
QUOTE(HTGamingPC @ Jan 6 2009, 03:07 AM)
Is it possible to get a bad key that seems to check out?
I made the cable from this thread without any issues and used it to get my key four times. It was the same with both CK3tool and DVDkey1.7. I didn't get any error messages and everything from that point on seemed to go well.
When I put in games, they don't work. DVDs work fine. Is it worth trying to read the key again, or did I nuke it when I erased the flash before flashing?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
You can reflash the drive. You should be able to erase it then flash it like before. I would remake the bin you used for flashing though because the write probably wrote the data fine. I'm not sure about your key but it seems Very likely that you have the right key given what you've said.
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 05, 2009, 11:52:00 PM
1k going to the molex 10k going to the pin for the r707
i power down pc-
power up xbox 360 eject drive pull the power plug from the power brick so power cuts off
push in the drive half way take out pin 3 on dvd power
plug 360 back in connect sata cable - then i connect everything to the computer for the serial the rx and ground to pin 2 and pin 5 on my com port 1
boot to dos power on 360
run dvdkey 930 ( my sata port )
it will read the identify and the inquire but keeps comming back
im sorry didnt work sega: 54
com port seem ok or anyways something in the extent
could someone please help i have been working on this for a while now its really aggervating
thanks in advanced
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 06, 2009, 02:16:00 AM
QUOTE(canusaybimmy @ Jan 6 2009, 04:27 AM)
was actually able to get the key once!!!!!!!!!!!
Gonna veryify this by doin git a couple more times.
I'll keep anyone whose interested posted about what I did differently this time
what did you do please tell im having so much trouble over here on my end
Post by: hmania39 on January 06, 2009, 09:51:00 AM
QUOTE(Pepsi2007 @ Jan 6 2009, 10:52 AM)
what did you do please tell im having so much trouble over here on my end
canusay, and pepsi.
I feel your pain guys.
I F&*%ED with this thing for I think, like 4 days straight. my wife was ready to divorce me I think, because once I get on something, I don't give up until I get it, and it was pissing me off that I couldn't get it working. even though I built 3 or 4 various circuits over the last few days, and actually had the key a couple of times at random, but could not seem to duplicate the process successfully at will. so I kept going. and it eventually came down to knowing that:
1. the circuit was absolutely correct,
2. my computer was going to work with the process,(although I new my comp wasn't going to be a problem as I have flashed probably a hundred various 360 drives throughout the past couple of years) but wasn't sure about the com port thing working properly.
so it came down to either the software and/or the order of the process.
after knowing I had successfully gotten the key a couple of times throughout the past days, it got down to the process. although I have to say. DON'T USE JUNGLE FLASHER. it's too buggy and unreliable. and just a downright pain in the a$$$$
even once I got the process right, and continued to flash the drive, I have to say I don't like using jungle.
So I did the key read, erase, and write, with the newest, dosflash32 in windows. It is a much more solid program and very nice to work with. and then I used firmtool to make the xtreme cfw file.
Ok, so here is the process that I got to work, and once I got it, I successfully flashed 3 different machines in like 15 minutes total.
So here we go
My comp. was already booted up and in windows. and I am using a scrap 360 for powering the drive.
So with the 360 off, hook up your sata cable and the power cable to the DVD drive.
The circuit you built is hooked up to your pc power, but not yet connected to the com port.
turn on the 360 and press eject on the front panel.
Now unplug the main power plug coming into the 360(you can either unplug the one connected to the 360 or the other end that goes into the power brick, not the one from the wall, just to be clear.)
so with the 360 now fully off and the tray hanging out unplug the power connecter to the dvd drive and pull pin 3(with the drive flipped upside down, it's the bottom one beside the 2 blank spots on the connecter)
and push your tray in manually until you see just enough of the hole in the middle of the tray to see a nicely proportioned semi-circle.
plug your power connecter back into the dvd drive and again leave pin 3 out of the connecter.
now plug your main power back into the 360 and press the power button on the front.
the tray should remain in the partial open position, and the green led on the front of the xbox should be flashing rapidly.
with that all done, you can now open Dosflash32.
ignore the MTK vendor response or whatever it says, and Just Say NO(hehe, sounds like something out of an antidrug campaign). it may come up more than once, I know mine did, it would usually ask me 2 or 3 times.
once that's done, pick the right sata port and com port from the 2 drop down menu's.(i'm not going into how to identify them as you should already now this by now, if not, go back and do some more reading to find out what they are.
from the other drop down, hit lite-on dvd key, and the read key button at the bottom should be active and you should see your lite-on drive in the properties box. if it's not there or the read key button isn't lit, close dosflash and re-open and it should be good. if you still don't see it, you may have to do the boot up process again for the 360 and try dosflash again, but this was not a normal occurance for dosflash.
once this is done go and hit the read key button and it will ask you to save the key file and inquiry and identify bin files and also the dummy file.
you should now see a box that tells you to make sure your 360 is on and tray ejected and so on, with an option box of yes or no.
now plug in your com port connecter to your device, put your homemade spear in the Gspot, and hit YES!
If all went well, then you should very quickly(like 2-3 seconds) get a key.
at this point you can remove your spear and just acknowledge the option box that comes up.
as suggested in other posts it's a good idea to pull the key a few times just to make sure you have it, and it's the same. because the next step will scare the shit out of you when you have to erase it-lol, and you want to make sure you have the key, otherwise..., well you know.
Ok I think that's it. I hope I wasn't too long winded and I hope you guys can benefit from it.
I'm now going back to bed, too many late nights lately, hahaha
Oh, and by the way, just to be clear. my final circuit I built, was just like the one on the first page of this thread. with a PN2222 NPN transistor, a 1K and a 10k resistor,( i think, 1 was a 1/4 watt and the other was a 1/2watt, not that it matters though)
Good luck guys
Post by: scu11y69 on January 06, 2009, 10:27:00 AM
http://img183.images...sdc10534dj6.jpg
could i use the big sqaure 1 also i would like to add a led on the probe needle so i know it works could some1 help please as to where i would attach the led
many thanks
where can i download the dosflash 32 as mentioned above
Post by: scu11y69 on January 06, 2009, 11:02:00 AM
QUOTE(scu11y69 @ Jan 6 2009, 06:03 PM)
been on this nearly a week now with NO KEY gana start from scractch can some1 tell me if these are the right transistors and the pin out e b c please
http://img183.images...sdc10534dj6.jpg
could i use the big sqaure 1 also i would like to add a led on the probe needle so i know it works could some1 help please as to where i would attach the led
many thanks
where can i download the dosflash 32 as mentioned above
just moving my post to this page
Post by: swirlx on January 06, 2009, 11:17:00 AM
The method of manually pressing the pin to open the xbox drive did not work for me. I don't know why, but as soon as I tried using the eject button to open the drive, pull out the white power plug, push the drive halfway in, and then plug the power back in it worked.
When opening the drive the other way I received the "nothing received from serial port" error in dvdkey in DOS.
Hopefully that helps.
Post by: hmania39 on January 06, 2009, 12:10:00 PM
QUOTE(leaverus @ Jan 6 2009, 07:21 PM)
Good suggestions, but two things: 1) I don't think Jungleflasher is to blame for any failures. I realize some people have had no luck with it, but many have had success. When i finally got my circuit working, JF worked perfectly to extract key and re-flash the drive. 2) I think some guys are making too big an issue of the exactitude of the tray closure; again, when i finally got my key, i was able to do it whether the tray was 1/4 closed, 1/2 closed, or 1/4 open - why should my 360 be different in this regard than anybody else's?
no I disagree, JF is quirky and I'm not the only one saying that, and there are definitely better alternatives out there now.
as far as why would your drive be any different, well because it's your drive I guess. lol
no just kidding, you're probably right that it doesn't much matter how far in or out the drive is, as long as it isn't in the complete closed or full open position, it should work. I have a couple of more to do tonight, so I will experiment with them to see if it does matter or not for me.
Post by: Kensaku on January 06, 2009, 01:42:00 PM
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 06, 2009, 01:51:00 PM
so now im going to try to see if i can get another program to read it so i can verify this is the correct key
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 06, 2009, 02:18:00 PM
i leave my pc on- turn the xbox 360 on with sata and power connect, eject tray - pull power remove pin 3 plug power back in open ck3 tool connect my serial port stuff connect the needle to r707 and hit get key
ck3 tool dosent say its a bad key its just a differnt key every single time i dump it
any suggestestions? or help ?
Post by: scu11y69 on January 06, 2009, 03:36:00 PM
QUOTE(scu11y69 @ Jan 6 2009, 06:38 PM)
just moving my post to this page
dont soppose any1 could answer if yes i can use these resistors no answer after 8 posts thanks for the help
Post by: hmania39 on January 06, 2009, 03:40:00 PM
QUOTE(scu11y69 @ Jan 7 2009, 12:12 AM)
dont soppose any1 could answer if yes i can use these resistors no answer after 8 posts thanks for the help
well I can comment and I don't think the big one you want to use will work, but to be honest I'm not a technician.
if possible I would try to get one of the above mentioned ones they are very cheap and you should be able to find them easily at Radio Shack or any eletronics outlet. or try rippping apart a couple of more dead pieces of electronics and see what you can come up with.
sorry I can't help you more.
Post by: scu11y69 on January 06, 2009, 03:50:00 PM
QUOTE(hmania39 @ Jan 6 2009, 11:16 PM)
well I can comment and I don't think the big one you want to use will work, but to be honest I'm not a technician.
if possible I would try to get one of the above mentioned ones they are very cheap and you should be able to find them easily at Radio Shack or any eletronics outlet. or try rippping apart a couple of more dead pieces of electronics and see what you can come up with.
sorry I can't help you more.
iv done a panasonic dvd video comby ,car radio .dvd home entatainment sytem lol and still no the right type i got me eye on tele next
Post by: meatballz on January 06, 2009, 06:25:00 PM
I hit the eject button on the 360, unplugged the power cable from the dvd drive, pushed the tray in halfway, plugged the power cable back in. I didn't have to remove pin 3/9 to get it working. At first I was just trying to use the manual eject on the drive to get the tray out halfway but that didn't work properly.
Thanks for the tutorial!
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 06, 2009, 06:55:00 PM
Post by: jview on January 06, 2009, 08:47:00 PM
just remeber when u flash the firmware you dont need to have any of the com port wires (this diy cable) contected as the flash is working thru SATA,
Wait when read the firmware back thru jungleflasher it says Target spoofed as: X6 , ?]: h .+i sh &p
Is this right?
ok this cant be write as its saying Unable to read disc,
Any one know whats wrong with this ? im going to post it in the main thread, as the search here is crap (sorry but it is)
Post by: JBmtk on January 06, 2009, 08:49:00 PM
QUOTE(ncpunxjoe @ Jan 6 2009, 10:14 PM)
for those of you having trouble and are using a serial cable make sure it's not a crossover cable..took me 11 hours to figure mine out..but i got my key..if it is you'll have to solder to pin 3 on the rs232 instead of pin 2
True, some motherboards are straight through and other cross over....meaning your pin arrangement may be different. I would look up your motherboard and find out. Once way to test this is in realterm by connecting 2 wires to pins 2 and 3 on the serial adapter itself or on the motherboard directly and then twisting them together.
In realterm, go the tab "Send" and in one of the two boxes, type something and you should see the same numbers/letters return in the black box above. You should also see the status boxes on the left hand side blink yellow.
This test just makes sure you have your pins right. You don't acutally use pin 3 (transmit) in the circuit what so ever.
If you are getting different keys, then I suggest building the circuit that actually limits the voltage to the standard +-3.3V. I can't find the circuit, but I know it originated from xboxhacker.net. If someone could post that, that would probably help. I don't know if that will fix the problem, but you may want to give it a shot. It only requires a few more resistors and a diode if I can remember.
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 06, 2009, 09:39:00 PM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Jan 6 2009, 11:25 PM)
If you are getting different keys, then I suggest building the circuit that actually limits the voltage to the standard +-3.3V. I can't find the circuit, but I know it originated from xboxhacker.net. If someone could post that, that would probably help. I don't know if that will fix the problem, but you may want to give it a shot. It only requires a few more resistors and a diode if I can remember.
i honistly dont thing that is the reason behind me getting a few differnt keys my com port on my motherboard is a standerd port its a Biostar NF4-A9A motherbored
Post by: JBmtk on January 06, 2009, 10:53:00 PM
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 06, 2009, 11:15:00 PM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Jan 7 2009, 01:29 AM)
maybe your wires that you are using are too thick..maybe find some larger gauge # number wire. I found that using thicker wires does cause problems with low currents/voltage. Also, maybe use a different spear...it's resistance may be too high....just some thoughts.
will deffinatly give this a try as changing the spear but the other wires came from a old computer case where u would have the plugs for the led/hdd/power on switch so all the wires are fairly tiny wires except the spear i cut some wires from a old psu i had laying around and im using a needle for the spear
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 07, 2009, 01:59:00 AM
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 07, 2009, 07:42:00 AM
some help would be greatful please
Post by: gewgaw111 on January 07, 2009, 09:08:00 AM
QUOTE(Pepsi2007 @ Jan 7 2009, 11:18 AM)
ok im stumped now its still giving me differnt keys saying they are no good, i switched my transistor to BC338
some help would be greatful please
Can we see a pic of your circuit?
Post by: strech on January 07, 2009, 09:47:00 AM
I have testet it with my multimeter:
B: Signal Tx = 3V
C: power = 5V
E: Output = 2.5V ????
Why is E 2.5V? I thought it should be 5V
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 07, 2009, 10:48:00 AM
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 07, 2009, 11:43:00 AM
heres the best i can do as far as a picture my camera sucks and im not to handy with a soldering iron but can work it
Post by: davefull on January 07, 2009, 04:57:00 PM
I live in a small town and the electronics store only had ECG 487 NPN capacitors available. I bought one anyway and was about to get started and I was wondering if anyone knew if this one is ok before I start.
Package says
ECG 487
NPN - Si
RF P0
Multiplier
Hi Band
VHF
1W 175Mhz
VCBO 36v
VCE0 18v
VEB0 4v
IC 400ma
PD 5W
HFE 20 min
1W 175Mhz 12v-case to - 39A
Thanks
Dave
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 07, 2009, 10:54:00 PM
when i connect the needle to the tx on the lite-on the RX in this program will lite up green when i move it around a little bit but on the bottom it is showing a red box that says BREAK ( says theres a breakage in the RX transmission )
any ideas? is this working properly? am i just not power cycling my drive the correct way ?
Post by: gewgaw111 on January 07, 2009, 11:29:00 PM
QUOTE(Pepsi2007 @ Jan 6 2009, 03:28 AM)
ok im using a C9013 NPN i found on a alarm clock radio - a 1k resistor and a 10k resistor
1k going to the molex 10k going to the pin for the r707
i power down pc-
power up xbox 360 eject drive pull the power plug from the power brick so power cuts off
push in the drive half way take out pin 3 on dvd power
plug 360 back in connect sata cable - then i connect everything to the computer for the serial the rx and ground to pin 2 and pin 5 on my com port 1
boot to dos power on 360
run dvdkey 930 ( my sata port )
it will read the identify and the inquire but keeps comming back
im sorry didnt work sega: 54
com port seem ok or anyways something in the extent
could someone please help i have been working on this for a while now its really aggervating
thanks in advanced
Have you tested your circuit with a multimeter?
I see your latest transistor is a BC338. Which pinout are you using for this transistor? I just looked it up and seem to have gotten multiple.
You can power the DVD drive before you start your computer so your BIOS can detect it.
How are you sure it's port 930 (JugnleFlasher)? Have a screenshot?
I just wouldn't want to overlook any small detail.
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 07, 2009, 11:45:00 PM
QUOTE(gewgaw111 @ Jan 8 2009, 02:05 AM)
Have you tested your circuit with a multimeter?
I see your latest transistor is a BC338. Which pinout are you using for this transistor? I just looked it up and seem to have gotten multiple.
You can power the DVD drive before you start your computer so your BIOS can detect it.
How are you sure it's port 930 (JugnleFlasher)? Have a screenshot?
I just wouldn't want to overlook any small detail.
the BC338 was labled on the board i took it off of, with flat side on table it would be E on left B dead center and C far right
my mistake its port 960 typing error on my end i do that sometimes lol
Post by: BytePir8 on January 08, 2009, 04:06:00 AM
Have built circit but think serial pins maybe wronge
as you look at the db9 from front (end that goes into serial port)
Not back where you solder.
i have it as top left (pin 5) and second in from top right(pin 2)
is this correct?
could only find right angle db9 pcb mount type conector.
also i'm using an old v2 CK kit to power drive and pc to power circit
should i have the green led lit as if i had sammy drive conected or
should i have it red as for hitachi drive?
I have found an old serial lead that i had for nokia phones
it has what i think must be serial 2 ttl circit. i used it for unlocking
will post pics as soon as i can, maybe someone will identify it
Cheers
Byte
Post by: strech on January 08, 2009, 04:37:00 AM
http://board.gulli.c...tor-bauplan/26/
open Programm / accessories / communication / HyperTerminal
Type some numbers and press OK
press Ok
type a name an press ok
choose your com port and press ok
i think this default must work
Then if you connect your Tx with 3-5V there should get some hieroglyphics
I hope that work by our connectors.
I don't know why my connector didn't work. I think it could be the power.
At first I used it from USB
Transistor C547B
B: Signal Tx = 3V
C: power = 5V
E: Output = 2.5V ????
Then i change to the Molex and get 4,5. Could this be?
Post by: BytePir8 on January 08, 2009, 06:00:00 AM
that i had for unlocking mobil phones and my circit from this
thred
(IMG:http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/BytePir8/S8000033.jpg)
(IMG:http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/BytePir8/S8000034.jpg)
(IMG:http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/BytePir8/S8000052.jpg)
(IMG:http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/BytePir8/S8000054.jpg)
used tran BC108, r1k, r10k
cheers
Byte
This post has been edited by BytePir8: Jan 8 2009, 02:08 PM
Post by: kl1k on January 08, 2009, 06:36:00 AM
My question is are you supposed to see the 01's when the drive is open or closed, or half way. I only see 01's when its open and 00's when its closed.
I've tried dvdkey after that with Realterm open. I don't see the key in the hex dump and dvdkey fails.
Does this sound like the rs3232 is working, but now I need to look at the half open tray problem?
Post by: scu11y69 on January 08, 2009, 09:48:00 AM
ppl shoul check there npn not pnp
ps also have a key reader FOR SALE made from a flux compasitor 1.21 gigawatts for ppl who r stuck its on ebay now for $555093 bid now to avoid dissapointment
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 08, 2009, 02:41:00 PM
so next i
power my pc down
power up xbox 360
eject
pull power from power brick
push tray half in so it looks like a partial circul
power up my pc boot to dos
type in Dvdkey 960 ( i know my sata port already )
it grabs the inquiry, and identify file and will also occasionaly grab a key, but for some reason its always not a good key?
i have also done this in windows after i booted back into windows i then
just powered off the 360 pulled serial cord out
opend a command window for the folder where i have Dvdkey 32
then i powered 360 up after i would type Dvdkey32 960 1
does the same thing i took a screen shot which u can see below
help please?!
(IMG:http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/sabrbuff/dvd.jpg)
Post by: strech on January 08, 2009, 04:42:00 PM
I got It (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
So the Hyperterminal works fine for testing.
My Problem was that i thougt the picture of the comport is the uperside and not the downside. So i had chooesen the wrong pins.
I use the Asus P5E with Intel X38 /ICH9R SATA Raid Chipset
I change it to IDE with compatible Modus from Bios
Serial over USB
http://cgi.ebay.de/USB-ZU-AUF-RS232-SERIEL...%3A1|240%3A1318
I hope that could somebody help
Post by: pogi1100 on January 08, 2009, 06:00:00 PM
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 08, 2009, 06:02:00 PM
Post by: JBmtk on January 09, 2009, 02:49:00 AM
QUOTE(Pepsi2007 @ Jan 8 2009, 08:38 PM)
anyone with any help on my situation above????
I don't think your setup getting your 360 into modeB is what is wrong because it is definatly transmitting. I honestly don't know what is wrong.
Post by: Pepsi2007 on January 09, 2009, 02:57:00 AM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Jan 9 2009, 05:25 AM)
I don't think your setup getting your 360 into modeB is what is wrong because it is definatly transmitting. I honestly don't know what is wrong.
i got the key i changed my resistors and bam! there it was i check it 5 diffent times between dvdkey32 and jungle flasher
i just posted a new topic here on my new problem now lol
Post by: Biermann on January 09, 2009, 07:27:00 PM
(IMG:http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k82/Beermuda/cea.jpg)
Recently got the RROD on my box and when I got it back it had a Lite-on in it, I was bummed. But now everything is good. Thanks to everyone who has been so helpful in this thread.
Post by: ducamie on January 10, 2009, 10:51:00 AM
Post by: hippodude100 on January 10, 2009, 11:18:00 AM
Rebuild you circuit and try again:)
Post by: Cipher7 on January 10, 2009, 12:55:00 PM
Im busy since a whole week with this thing ,i resoldered it again and again ,changed the power supply several times but no luck yet.
It really starts to piss me off.
i tested everything if its working ,hyperterminal and realterminal response if i put a spear on a 5 V Supply ,everything working fine so far.
But now im getting problems .....
I did the following ..
-Pc is on and running hyperterminal
-Xbox started
-Drive ejected and closed
-Powercable removed
-with a paperclip the drive manually ejected
-Drive stands half open with status closed
-Xbox powerled is blinking
Now should the drive permanent send the key on r707
So i took the Spear and holded the needle in the hole.
I got for one time some kind of data im not sure doesnt look like a key...(time period is about 1/10 seconds)
and then happens nothing ....
But as i said before you should get a permanent flow of data from the R707.
As i take the spear away from the hole and point it again to the hole ,i get some kind of data ...
I think something is going wrong there ...... Any ideas ?
I will submit a picture of this thing in the following days.
Please help me ,i feel so damn fucked up.
Post by: hippodude100 on January 10, 2009, 01:21:00 PM
Somebody tld me to switch the transistor the collecter and emitter.
Worked perfect after
try it
Post by: Cipher7 on January 10, 2009, 01:41:00 PM
Thank you for your advise
Addition to my post(since you cant edit your posts after someone answered to it):
I give you a litte example what happens ...
No data
I put the spear into the little hole
i get data for a 1/10 second ,then nothing
i take it away
put it back in
i get data for a 1/10 second ,then nothing
Post by: hippodude100 on January 10, 2009, 01:45:00 PM
you get crap data because it loses connection and again, wen you wiggle it in the hole you wel data to.
If you test it with realterm you will see that the error light will turn on.
so the 1/10 s data is just random crap and not really data
Post by: Cipher7 on January 10, 2009, 02:04:00 PM
So this is probably the solution
Currently the whole board lies by my friend who helped me during this process
I will try it as fast as i can.
Post by: Aviator747 on January 10, 2009, 09:00:00 PM
Thanks
Post by: firsttimedoingthis on January 10, 2009, 09:38:00 PM
Post by: hippodude100 on January 11, 2009, 07:20:00 AM
And don't forget to connect the grounds.
Post by: meatballz on January 11, 2009, 09:11:00 AM
Post by: Aviator747 on January 11, 2009, 11:51:00 AM
1. I powered up my PC, with SATA cable at the ready.
2. Powered up the Xbox, all cables connected except for the SATA connector on DVD drive.
3. Ejected the tray.
4. Pulled the power cord to the xbox.
5. Removed the power connector from the DVD drive and pulled wire at pin 3, hooked connector back to DVD drive.
6. Pushed tray in half way.
7. Hooked PC SATA cable to DVD drive.
8. Ran JungleFlasher on PC and bypassed any drive errors, went to dvd32 tab.
9. Powered up Xbox again.
10. Hooked up my TX pin and then clicked Get Key.
11. Presto one key.
I got my 5V and ground from the DVD drive itself.
Thanks for developing this and helping out the community yaywoop.
Post by: caxluis on January 11, 2009, 12:02:00 PM
Jungleflasher in windows is a bit of a problem, but eventually it did the job. I recommend, as many have donne before, to use the DOS version.
Post by: Biermann on January 11, 2009, 08:54:00 PM
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=667974
I have 2 computers, only one has serial ports and I couldn't get it to detect the drive via the sata cable through DVDKEY in windows or DOS. It's an Abit NF7-S. My other board an Abit IP-35E doesn't have serial ports, not even headers on the motherboard. Fortunately, yaywoops gadget works with a usb to serial adapter. Then I hit my next roadblock, DVDKEY would not detect my USB COM port. Tried 360 Xtractor Reader and it was as easy as pie. Everything was detected and worked on the first try. Verified it, erased and flashed using JungleFlasher and I'm playing backups.
Thanks again yaywoop and everyone else here.
Post by: Serious Sam on January 11, 2009, 09:54:00 PM
I built my extractor using your tutorial and I must say it was really simple and works like a charm.
I found all my parts in a old UPS I had with a bad battery. I used a CPN2222A transistor and found the 1k and 10k resistors in it also. I got my PROD from a junk volt ohm meter and it works nice
. I'll take some pics later to post.Post by: seanduk on January 12, 2009, 12:27:00 PM
1: The transistor i used was from an old 56k modem i found in my attic
it was marked KSP13 2: The resistors i used were from an old broken car radio
3: Connected the serial plug to pc & Liteon to my via 6421 card before switching on the pc
4: Ejected the drive, unplugged the drive power, push the tray in a little & plug it back in
5: Held the needle on the R707 & clicked get key & files on maximus reader
6: Done the same with Dvdkey32, just to be safe
7: Then i just followed the readme in the ixtreme folder for flashing the drive.
Playing backups perfectly. Thanks again people for all the pics & stuff that people posted in the thread. That really helped me out.
edit: I used the molex for power
Post by: ColdBrew on January 12, 2009, 03:02:00 PM
I recommend you pull the power from the xbox after ejecting the tray, pull the pin, then tape it with some electrical tape.
Post by: devage on January 12, 2009, 04:49:00 PM
Do you think this setup will work?
http://www.electroki...ode_no=40320455
http://www.electroki...ode_no=40810310
http://www.electroki...ode_no=40810410
http://www.zetex.com...INE_NPN&PNP.gif (Transistor pinout)
Post by: BytePir8 on January 12, 2009, 06:34:00 PM
after much soldering and head bashing
i have got my Key at last
changed tran for a bc1815 and found that i had wrong
pin out, my 5v to serial was conected at same point
as 5v into R1k, once i changed it so i had 5v, R1k, 5v to
serial and tran everything worked perfect.
thanks yaywoop, You da man
cheers
Byte
Post by: Shroomer on January 12, 2009, 06:50:00 PM
Is this right? so it must be something else making it so i cant read my f**king key?
like tray status?
thx.
also if i just buy the real deal like ck3 or maximus will it work right away with no problems like i been having the past week?
Post by: laurens0619 on January 13, 2009, 04:28:00 AM
Last week I tried it but I ended up with a drive only playing dvd video (this is the symtpon when your key is not correct).
Because I flashed the drive I was in trouble.
When I did the read I did severial tries dumping the key. Each succes. The key was in a good format and DVDKey32 says Good key.
I also tried one time with xtractor to dump the key and it seems the same. But after flashing it didnt work!
Luckily Xtractor made a key.tmp where I found my (correct) key. The key was exactly the same as my DVDKey except one character differences. The DVDKey had a F value in that position while my Xtractor had a '2' value at that position.
I don't think the program made the difference but I hadnt got a good connection with my probe.
So my advice to all is to dump the key several times and save them to different files. After that do a md5 to quicky check if the retrieved keys are the same! because with the eye one character difference you won't notice.
I had luck that I had a tmp file with the correct key... but you are warned!
Post by: hungi on January 13, 2009, 04:52:00 AM
For the record: i had trouble with my jungleflasher / windows after erasing the firmware with my VIA-based sata controller card. The windows stucked and responded very slowly (it was active for a second in every 1 minutes). It was a pain in the ass to figuring out
, that i cant flash the drive in windows. Finally i made the flashing with iprep (dosflash).
So if you want a good advice:
- get the key (more than once) in Windows as described in the initial post with Jungleflasher.
- make the lite_CFW.bin in Jungleflasher and RENAME TO litCFW.bin (!)
- make a bootable pendrive with iprep (set the sata controller's properties!)
- put all the .bin files (litCFW.bin, Key.bin, Inquiry.bin, Identify.bin) to the pendrive to the following directory: PENDRIVE:\BACKUP\123456\78910\
(the numbers come from your xbox360's serial number, for example: 123456 78910)
- Boot from your pendrive, follow the onscreen instructions and flash your drive
BTW You can do all the steps (get the key + flash the drive) with your iprep-made pendrive.
Post by: hungi on January 13, 2009, 05:14:00 AM
Post by: jack_herer on January 13, 2009, 08:33:00 AM
THANK YOU ALL!!!
this is my first post but i've followed x-scene and i know what a great (hacking) work has been done.
i've some questions, after reading all this thread:
key is received by com port, and inq-id by SATA, is this correct?
exactly, why tray must be half-opened? -this is important for me to know-
eject pin (pin 3) is needed to be removed or not (when drive is powered by X)? if i power half-open drive it will close the tray?
tell me if i'm wrong...
-xbox is powered off
-manual eject
-turn X on
-grab key
or i need to leave X power on and just unplug dvdpower cable (no pin removing)?
is it important to leave X powered on during the procedure?
sorry for my pseudo-english and tnx for reading this post
Post by: mystiquesbs on January 13, 2009, 05:49:00 PM
"You should have 3 wires (gnd, 5V and Tx) going to the dvd drive and two wires (gnd pin 5 and Rx pin 2) going to the serial port "
Does that mean that the gnd and 5v are soldered to those points shown in the pic if the dvd drive?
Or can I just hook gnd and 5v from a psu?
Post by: III888 on January 13, 2009, 06:28:00 PM
Now that is a lot of brass air fittings http://www.liangdian...irfitting_1.htm there is just about every type
of air fitting that you could want. Wholesale prices too. I guess these could be used as small water pipe fitting also. I
used some of the parts to make my babington wvo bu
Post by: DTXL on January 13, 2009, 10:17:00 PM
Post by: DTXL on January 14, 2009, 01:07:00 AM
QUOTE(dibbz @ Jan 12 2009, 07:47 PM)
Like other people I pulled the 5v and ground from a usb plug, and used the signal and ground wires from the rest of the cable for the probe / ground.
Do you need to ground the probe as well?
Post by: Cipher7 on January 14, 2009, 02:19:00 AM
Too bad mine is bricked ,drive is well working and i patched it with the xbox360 from my friend. But the green powerled flashes the whole time and the lid wont stay closed ,i know that there could be a problem with my drive but as i said ,the drive works ....
So its over for me now ,i dont have any clue to solve this
Post by: Dre@m on January 23, 2009, 01:34:00 AM
If you use tantalum capacitors remember right connection +/-, use datasheet!!
Normal Chips
- Maxim3232CPE, 5*100nF keramik capacitors, voltage 3.3V. My Webpage
- Maxim232CPE, 5*1uF tantalum capacitors or 5*100nF keramik capacitors, voltage is 5V. Datasheet
SMD Chips:
- ST232EB, 5*1uf tantalum capacitors and voltage is 5V. Datasheet
- SP232EEN, 5*1uf tantalum capacitors and voltage is 5V. Datasheet
- Max202, 5*1uf tantalum capacitors and voltage is 5V. Datasheet
Post by: FaZeKsF on January 23, 2009, 02:29:00 PM
QUOTE(gokuguy @ Jan 3 2009, 07:38 PM)
Not sure what I did differently, but now when I connect it to the 5V, hyperterminal starts spewing out random characters at a pretty constant rate...forever. Does this mean it's working?
I seem to be having the same problem. When I added a ground to attach to the psu I'm using to power the cable, the random characters stop, but when I apply 5v to the probe I get nothing, but if I touch part of the probe with my finger characters start coming out slowly intermittent. I've even reversed the collector and emitter to see if that helped but nothing, now when I touch the probe with the wires swapped no characters come out, only spits out characters constant when I remove the ground from my psu. . Should I solder it back the original way and try something else, there seems to be something I'm overlooking and I've read every page in this topic and still no luck. Any suggestions?
BTW I soldered the wires for pins 2 and 5 directly to my USB to SERIAL cable, can that have something to do with my problem?
This post has been edited by FaZeKsF: Jan 23 2009, 10:30 PM
Post by: Buzzcut on January 25, 2009, 09:05:00 AM
I just thought I'd offer my thanks to yaywoop for inspiring me to make my own key retriever. It took 18p (about $0.25) to make and roughly 10 mins of my most amateurish soldering time (for you UK people I got my transistor from Maplins part# QB73Q). I wrapped the components in insulating tape afterwards then shoved the lot inside a fat biro for neatness. I think it's pretty awesome and very satisfying to see it working.
(IMG:http://www.picatom.com/u/explode-1-th.jpg) (IMG:http://www.picatom.com/u/biro-1-th.jpg)
I've done 3 lite-ons in the past week using VIA 6421/Jungleflasher to both read the keys, compile the firmware and also flash it and it's worked flawlessly each time.
I'm staggered that people are buying the CK3 and probe for 200 times what it cost me. I've made sure that both the serial cable and the power cable were long enough so that they reach to the top of my desk and combined with a 2m SATA cable all work can be carried out comfortably. The less components/drivers I've got attached the better IMO.
I know it's pretty scary if you've never done anything like this before but nothing can really go wrong, you can't mess up your drive just reading a key.
Thanks once again yaywoop for reaffirming my love of DIY electronics....Buzz
Post by: canehdian73 on January 26, 2009, 09:27:00 AM
Post by: wtgvr4me03 on January 26, 2009, 05:45:00 PM
Post by: GameTech on January 26, 2009, 08:12:00 PM
Came across this today and decided to give it a try.
Believe it or not found all the stuff very easily. Found the resistors and PN2222 transistor on an old xbox 1.6 powersupply (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Got it to work perfectly on first try.
Fun stuff!
Post by: Mawkish on January 27, 2009, 02:56:00 AM
Built this from parts of an old psu(used the pn2222a transistor) a few days ago and just now did the flashing, xbox running backups and originals just fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
One hint on the testing part. Make sure you have proper grounding when testing with a multimeter i thought i had a faulty circuit but it was a grounding issue. Ground the source of 5V(in my case the psu) and also ground the batteries(in my case 2 x AA 1.5v) before you apply the needle. This might be basic for most ppl but it certainly did my head in so thought i would share if anyone get weird or no readings on the multimeter and hyperterm(only your 3V source need to be grounded since the 5V source is grounded by the com port) tests.
When actually reading the key you wont be needing the psu grounding as that is taken care of by the com port ground. Remember to ground the 360 dvd drive though!
Post by: homboy1 on January 27, 2009, 02:59:00 AM
Post by: TheDemonIII on January 27, 2009, 10:50:00 PM
Post by: Buzzcut on January 28, 2009, 03:04:00 AM
He's got 3 wires as he's using the 5v and Ground via the DVD drive instead.
Post by: yaywoop on January 28, 2009, 05:30:00 AM
QUOTE(TheDemonIII @ Jan 28 2009, 05:26 PM)
i've got a question regarding this tutorial. I made the circuit as displayed in the diagram, but then you say "You should have 3 wires (gnd, 5V and Tx) going to the dvd drive and two wires (gnd pin 5 and Rx pin 2) going to the serial port " I have the two going to the serial port, but only one going to the dvd drive, the tx. Where should the 5v and gnd come from? will 5v and gnd from the same molex that I'm plugging the extractor into work?
yeah you can get 5V from the pc molex or the 360 drive... I would change it but I can't edit the tute, and can't be stuffed doing it through PM's to mods.
that is why I made a new Tutorial... which I would like people to use instead of this one. its in my sig..
really it would be a good idea to have this thread closed so conversation can move to the new thread.
Post by: TingedAce on January 28, 2009, 04:57:00 PM
Just wanted to report another success with this method. Worked an absolute treat first time.
Actually my construction looks a lot like Buzzcut's above. I liked the idea of using the 10K leg as the spear and the severed serial cable lets you work a good distance away from the PC. I just need to find a fat enough pen to enclose it in.
My one observation is, after reading this and many other threads prior to embarking on this project, that everyone seems to have a different process order which worked for them. In case it helps anyone, I followed the one from aviator747 (on page 45 of this thread), with the following minor deviations:
1. I powered up my PC, with SATA cable at the ready.
==> I did do this, but realised there's no point. Just leave the PC off for now.
2. Powered up the Xbox, all cables connected except for the SATA connector on DVD drive.
==> Yes, except to clarify all cables really means just the power from xbox to DVD drive i.e. remove the sata connection from xbox to DVD drive.
3. Ejected the tray.
==> By using a controller if you've got one connected, or the front panel eject switch
4. Pulled the power cord to the xbox.
5. Removed the power connector from the DVD drive and pulled wire at pin 3, hooked connector back to DVD drive.
==> Removing pin 3 is essential, as far as I can tell. It's the only way the tray will stay half out, thus ensuring required data is spat out continuously.
6. Pushed tray in half way.
7. Hooked PC SATA cable to DVD drive.
==> Yes, but again to clarify, both xbox and PC should be powered OFF while connecting the SATA cable. Otherwise your PC will probably crash. Quite horribly in fact.
8. Ran JungleFlasher on PC and bypassed any drive errors, went to dvd32 tab.
==> Probably equivalent but I used Maximus Key Xtractor and followed the latter part of this excellent guide.
==> http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/index.php?tit...DVD_Key_Dumping
==> Of course my PC isn't on at this point, so.....
9. Powered up Xbox again.
==> Yep, xbox first, then power up the PC, in that order, then run whatever software you're going to use
10. Hooked up my TX pin and then clicked Get Key.
==> Once you've done the steps to allow the hardware to be detected
11. Presto one key.
Like others, I thoroughly enjoyed doing this....the wonderment of researching it, the determination to seek out all the parts (for free remember, you're not allowed to pay for any of it or it doesn't count (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)), the excitement of testing out the circuit to see if it works, the fear of doing something wrong and finally the satisfaction of seeing the key pop out at the end (4 times, all identical). What fun!
Just take your time. Do it carefully, and read instructions carefully and you'll be fine.
Thanks again to Yaywoop and others in this thread for sharing their ideas and experiences.
Post by: yaywoop on January 28, 2009, 07:44:00 PM
Post by: rigger66 on January 28, 2009, 08:00:00 PM
QUOTE(TingedAce @ Jan 29 2009, 12:33 AM)
(for free remember, you're not allowed to pay for any of it or it doesn't count (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)),
Well I feel ashamed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) it cost me 48p . Dam I feel real bad now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
Thanks for your ingenious device yay (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Regards
Post by: TingedAce on January 29, 2009, 12:17:00 PM
Is this correct? If so, what can be done? Wait until XBC supports it? Is there any other solution?
Or should I buy another drive? If so, which one is best?
Thanks again.
Post by: jp35 on February 08, 2009, 04:05:00 PM
QUOTE(db377 @ Feb 8 2009, 07:26 PM)
I know about the ways to test this circuit...
I know the circuit can receive junk data from a 1.5v battery and that when I connect the 1.5v battery, the output voltage drops near 0v, but I fear that, lets say that my comport see's the low voltage when TTL source is transmitting and decides that it cant be "1" (as it should, judging by wikipedia) and says it is "0", or ignors that data and decides to just skip on to the next value.
Then what might happen is that a few (or all) characters in the key would be simply invalid, causing a brick.
thats why you use more than one program to dump the key and compare to see if they are the same. You can also use another drive and spoof the info if your worried about a bricking your xbox
This post has been edited by jp35: Feb 9 2009, 12:08 AM
Post by: db377 on February 08, 2009, 04:37:00 PM
QUOTE(jp35 @ Feb 9 2009, 01:41 AM)
thats why you use more than one program to dump the key and compare to see if they are the same. You can also use another drive and spoof the info if your worried about a bricking your xbox
but that's just it! the possible error is in the hardware, not software.
look at this pic: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...scope_trace.jpg
in this pic you can see exactly what I mean.
when ttl is not transmitting (gives 0v) than the circuit gives 5v. 5v is "1" in rs232 and 5v is in the defined range of 3-15v.
when ttl IS transmitting, (gives 1.5v) than the circuit gives a few mV. when you look at the picture in the link you can see that it is in the uncertainty range.
that means that whatever goes there may not be always accurate.
only if yaywoop replies now and says that whatever voltage in the uncertainty range ALWAYS means "0" than there is no chance of a brick!
This post has been edited by db377: Feb 9 2009, 12:42 AM
Post by: jp35 on February 08, 2009, 04:53:00 PM
QUOTE(db377 @ Feb 8 2009, 08:13 PM)
but that's just it! the possible error is in the hardware, not software.
look at this pic: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...scope_trace.jpg
in this pic you can see exactly what I mean.
when ttl is not transmitting (gives 0v) than the circuit gives 5v. 5v is "1" in rs232 and 5v is in the defined range of 3-15v.
when ttl IS transmitting, (gives 1.5v) than the circuit gives a few mV. when you look at the picture in the link you can see that it is in the uncertainty range.
that means that whatever goes there may not be always accurate.
only if yaywoop replies now and says that whatever voltage in the uncertainty range ALWAYS means "0" than there is no chance of a brick!
the pupose of this circuit is not to spend crazy money on one of those gadgets. If you read the whole thread there is nothing but success stories. Sounds to me you are too paranoid so my suggestion is to buy one of those gadgets really simple
Post by: Mawkish on February 08, 2009, 05:57:00 PM
QUOTE(db377 @ Feb 9 2009, 01:13 AM)
but that's just it! the possible error is in the hardware, not software.
look at this pic: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...scope_trace.jpg
in this pic you can see exactly what I mean.
when ttl is not transmitting (gives 0v) than the circuit gives 5v. 5v is "1" in rs232 and 5v is in the defined range of 3-15v.
when ttl IS transmitting, (gives 1.5v) than the circuit gives a few mV. when you look at the picture in the link you can see that it is in the uncertainty range.
that means that whatever goes there may not be always accurate.
only if yaywoop replies now and says that whatever voltage in the uncertainty range ALWAYS means "0" than there is no chance of a brick!
Lets assume it wouldnt work, what would happen?
When ttl is not transmitting you get 0V signal to the serial Rx is 5V this is fine according to the standard this level will mean a 0 sent datawise.
When ttl is transmitting you get 1.5V and the signal to the Rx turns approx 0V(ie not strict rs232 level) assuming this aint working it would mean nothing according to the strict standard and be ignored.
So all you will send is a dataflow of 0's and if you look at how the Rx dataflow is built up you always need a startbit ie a bit that is 1 before it actually starts reading anything. Since we dont get any 1's you would just end up with nothing. No starting bit no data recieved.
So make a long story short it either works perfectly or it doesnt work at all.
Post by: wildwild on February 09, 2009, 02:03:00 AM
This post has been edited by wildwild: Feb 9 2009, 10:05 AM
Post by: db377 on February 09, 2009, 05:28:00 AM
QUOTE(Mawkish @ Feb 9 2009, 03:33 AM)
Lets assume it wouldnt work, what would happen?
When ttl is not transmitting you get 0V signal to the serial Rx is 5V this is fine according to the standard this level will mean a 0 sent datawise.
When ttl is transmitting you get 1.5V and the signal to the Rx turns approx 0V(ie not strict rs232 level) assuming this aint working it would mean nothing according to the strict standard and be ignored.
So all you will send is a dataflow of 0's and if you look at how the Rx dataflow is built up you always need a startbit ie a bit that is 1 before it actually starts reading anything. Since we dont get any 1's you would just end up with nothing. No starting bit no data recieved.
So make a long story short it either works perfectly or it doesnt work at all.
oh. now it makes some sense.
thank you for explaining and not just sending me to buy a kit or something
Post by: Redshock77 on February 09, 2009, 07:38:00 AM
Although I flashed it successfully, in the tutorials I read I wasnt 100% on one thing in case I flash anymore.
Near the end of the process when I pressed Lite-on Erase in Jungle flasher the second warning message says to Power drive off then on in quick succession does drive mean the whole 360 or just the Lite-on itself be removing the power lead from the back of the Lite-on and plugging it back in quickly.
Post by: jp35 on February 09, 2009, 12:03:00 PM
QUOTE(Redshock77 @ Feb 9 2009, 11:14 AM)
I managed to flash my Lite-on last night using Jungleflasher, I think with more luck than judgement. I built the device using yaywoops plans and it worked perfectly at least it did after I soldered the resistors round the right way.
Although I flashed it successfully, in the tutorials I read I wasnt 100% on one thing in case I flash anymore.
Near the end of the process when I pressed Lite-on Erase in Jungle flasher the second warning message says to Power drive off then on in quick succession does drive mean the whole 360 or just the Lite-on itself be removing the power lead from the back of the Lite-on and plugging it back in quickly.
when you power cycle you turn the xbox off and on quickly from the power button
Post by: dpuchox on February 09, 2009, 01:21:00 PM
But now im having problems with a particular Lite On drive that doesnt want to give me its key (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
I already took the drive to 1 friend who has a ck3+probe and we couldnt extract the key either. (DOS, JF, dvdkey32, etc)
I've read the whole thread and i dont think anyone got stuck with this kind of problem, i would like to know if there is another alternative to extract the key or im stuck with a drive thats gonna stay "virgin" ^^
im adding a pic of the board just in case altough i cant see any difference between this drive and the ones i flashed before
thanks in advance ^^
(IMG:http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5779/board001cl8.th.jpg)
Post by: yaywoop on February 09, 2009, 06:24:00 PM
QUOTE(wildwild @ Feb 9 2009, 08:39 PM)
I think it would be better to use an PNP transistor and tap the output at the collector so output would go all the way down to 0V and up to 4.8V.
yes It would be slightly better. reduce the '0V' from 50mV to a few uV. the disadvantage is that the supply voltage will have to be 3.3V, not 5V and it requires an extra resistor. also a circuit like this would only work down to a 2.5V input. (which is probably fine)
here is a circuit which is far more compatible with serial protocols. It uses a PNP transistor and the collector is pulled down to -12V (using parasitic power from the com port) so the output would go down to -12V and up to 3.3V.
http://xbox-experts.com/e/pics/yaywoop/harder.jpg
QUOTE(db377 @ Feb 9 2009, 11:13 AM)
but that's just it! the possible error is in the hardware, not software.
look at this pic: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...scope_trace.jpg
in this pic you can see exactly what I mean.
when ttl is not transmitting (gives 0v) than the circuit gives 5v. 5v is "1" in rs232 and 5v is in the defined range of 3-15v.
when ttl IS transmitting, (gives 1.5v) than the circuit gives a few mV. when you look at the picture in the link you can see that it is in the uncertainty range.
that means that whatever goes there may not be always accurate.
only if yaywoop replies now and says that whatever voltage in the uncertainty range ALWAYS means "0" than there is no chance of a brick!
if you have a look at a common rs232 transceiver datasheet like the max232. the Low-level input voltage is defined as anything below 0.8V. (ie normaly -12V. but can be anything up to 0.8V. that is why this circuit works)
so that gives us plenty of range to play with. at 1.1V the output of the transistor will be around 0.6V at 1.5V it will be around 0.08V
edit:(I just double checked this with a 'gd75232' serial transcever found on an actual motherboard. it has the same low level as 0.8V. and high level as 1.7V. the rs232 protocol defines it as +/-3.3. I suppose they want to stay within these limits, as well as setting zero as being well within the low level so as not to get false data )
This post has been edited by yaywoop: Feb 10 2009, 02:35 AM
Post by: Ree1981 on February 10, 2009, 05:23:00 AM
Trying to get 3.3v from a 5v molex. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? I suck, I know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Post by: JBmtk on February 10, 2009, 12:21:00 PM
I guess you can grab it off of there at V....but I dunno bout the current or load your attaching.
Post by: yaywoop on February 10, 2009, 07:34:00 PM
make sure you use a 3.3V zener, and a resistor calculated to handle the current. otherwise it looks fine
what are you powering with it?
if you can buy a 3.3V linear regulator it will be easier and much more efficient
Post by: jp35 on February 11, 2009, 12:59:00 AM
Post by: Daap on February 11, 2009, 07:49:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on February 11, 2009, 11:41:00 AM
QUOTE(Daap @ Feb 12 2009, 02:25 AM)
i've made the hardware and everything looks fine. i tested my setup with a multimeter and all looks okay. but when i run jungle flasher i get the error 'serial data is bad'. i tried testing the hardware with hyperterminal, but i don't even get random characters on the screen in hyper terminal. could this indicate that my hardware is bad or that my computer doesn't accept the deviated rs232 signals? or should my computer still read something in hyper terminal even if the signals aren't exactly rs232 levels?
what happened when you tested it with a multimeter?
Post by: thr4773r on February 11, 2009, 09:24:00 PM
I ended up removing everything off the breadboard, paralleling a few resistors until I had roughly 10.8kOhms, used a 1kOhm I had, and some of the other leftover pieces from the first design. The first 4.5V source I saw when I looked around was a little led flashlight I got from one of the suppliers we use at work. It used 3 1.5V AAAs, so I figured would work.
Right away, everything started going my way. I was able to short 2 and 3 to get a loopback test, so I figured everything was starting to come together. I held the com wire to the resistor on the circuit board and was able to read a key! I tried a few more times, using the jungle flasher program, and also maximus's tool, and was able to verify a good key. I flashed the drive a little nervously, but everything went by the book.
I saw after I had flashed the drive with the custom firmware that there may be some issues with jungle flasher .26b, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) but I'm not ready to take it back apart yet. Hopefully the firmware is secure enough as it is.
All in all, pretty darn cool. Thanks.
Post by: kwm300 on February 12, 2009, 01:01:00 AM
i used an 11k, 1.1k resistors. I had issues also getting jungleflash to read the key from the drive in windows, but closing the drive tray a little more and a little more whilst the pin was on the r707 pad pumped out the key...
As most people have have found, if your circuit is correct (unlike mine 1st time round where my transistor cooked) you'll have success...god i love communities where infomation is free and only requires a little effort on the reader....
thanks to you all....
happychap....
Post by: Pepsi2007 on February 12, 2009, 01:33:00 AM
Post by: THEMASTERFUL1 on February 12, 2009, 11:14:00 AM
Post by: killerz on February 12, 2009, 12:49:00 PM
my question is wouls it be hard to add a light to the prob?
like i said i built yaywoop setup so i dont have to use soldering..just sometime my prob doesnt connect perfectly and i get bad data hehe like it would read 5 times lol than bad data hehe thinking if i had a light i would see it connecting it just gives that better sence of seeing the light and knowing its working ..
so if any1 (yaywoop) could help he on adding a led that would be awsome.... thx again dude
This post has been edited by killerz: Feb 12 2009, 08:50 PM
Post by: jp35 on February 12, 2009, 01:03:00 PM
QUOTE(killerz @ Feb 12 2009, 01:25 PM)
thinking if i had a light i would see it connecting it just gives that better sence of seeing the light and knowing its working ..
i agree with you having an led you can see contact being made - look on page 15 post 223. Use a 150 ohm resistor with the led worked for me
Post by: killerz on February 12, 2009, 01:14:00 PM
also u said use 150 ohm does that mean 150k?
Post by: jp35 on February 12, 2009, 01:20:00 PM
QUOTE(killerz @ Feb 12 2009, 01:50 PM)
thx ..so i just add the other end of the led to the ground wire i use to connect to the serial port would that work?
also u said use 150 ohm does that mean 150k?
yes 150 not 150k - hook up 1 end of the led to the resistor the other to ground if it doesn't work reverse them think leds are polarity sensitive
Post by: killerz on February 12, 2009, 01:25:00 PM
i have loads of resisters the the 1z with rings of colors
Post by: jp35 on February 12, 2009, 01:29:00 PM
QUOTE(killerz @ Feb 12 2009, 02:01 PM)
im not to circut inclined....what does a 150 ohm look like?
i have loads of resisters the the 1z with rings of colors
1k ohms = 1000 ohms don't know the color just test it with a meter use the right setting
Post by: JBmtk on February 12, 2009, 02:06:00 PM
You best bet would be to make sure your LED is rated for low voltage <1.5V and then pick a 500 ohm resistor or something that would make the current small.
Here's color codes: http://www.geocities.com/aliciainelpaso/sc...-color-code.gif
This post has been edited by JBmtk: Feb 12 2009, 10:08 PM
Post by: yaywoop on February 12, 2009, 07:31:00 PM
if you successfully dump twice and its the same, you are pretty guaranteed that its the correct key
if you see the key turn up, you know its working. an led won't help you getting the right point either, as many points will make it light up
Post by: sigma68 on February 13, 2009, 05:33:00 PM
thanks
(IMG:http://i43.tinypic.com/2w4y4yg.jpg)
Post by: Mawkish on February 14, 2009, 12:28:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on February 14, 2009, 09:37:00 AM
QUOTE(sigma68 @ Feb 14 2009, 12:09 PM)
I was wondering if anyone could help me. I already built the key extractor but get nothing I'm pretty sure I wired everything up right but the only doubt I have is if on the db9 cable I am using if I chose the right wires because it has 5 wires green, blue, white, red, black. I chose the red for the 5v and the black for ground other than that I don't know what I could be doing wrong any help will be appreciated.
thanks
http://i43.tinypic.com/2w4y4yg.jpg
what is the cable from?
you will have to test using a multimeter to see which pins the wires go to. don't rely on colour.
Post by: sigma68 on February 14, 2009, 10:45:00 AM
the cable is a cable which came with an old graphing calculator of mine.
This post has been edited by sigma68: Feb 14 2009, 06:49 PM
Post by: sigma68 on February 14, 2009, 11:02:00 AM
thanks again
This post has been edited by sigma68: Feb 14 2009, 07:04 PM
Post by: sigma68 on February 14, 2009, 12:49:00 PM
Post by: edhunter on February 16, 2009, 02:39:00 PM
thanks in advance
Post by: Takashi on February 17, 2009, 12:45:00 AM
that's a very very noob-like question.
Also read the stickies!
I take it, English is NOT your first language?
Post by: jippolito02 on February 17, 2009, 05:13:00 PM
Post by: mzr90s on February 19, 2009, 12:51:00 PM
Thanks for this topic OP!
I have created the circuit on a breadboard. The only problem is that I do not have a female DB9 serial connector on my motherboard. Can I get a PCI card that his the serial connection? I bought a DB9 male connector from Radioshack. Can I get a male to female converter and plug the connection into my monitor port? Will it work?
Please advise of any other options I might have. Thanks in advance!
Post by: jp35 on February 19, 2009, 11:30:00 PM
QUOTE(mzr90s @ Feb 19 2009, 01:27 PM)
Hi Guys,
Can I get a PCI card that his the serial connection?
yes a serial pci card will work - if your using usb to com adapter will only work in windows not dos
This post has been edited by jp35: Feb 20 2009, 07:30 AM
Post by: phoduma on February 20, 2009, 03:26:00 AM
(IMG:http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/188/48127536ji4.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4306/49300129ao3.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/3581/11398622yf0.th.jpg)
as u can see, my status is BAD, also my key slightly changes too..
What am i doing wrong? is it my usb driver? i know i did everything correctly in making the extraction tool and check it over 10x or more because i couldnt find out what i was doing wrong, HELP PLZ!!
Post by: UnknownProjects on February 20, 2009, 03:11:00 PM
A quick reply would be nice,
Thanks in advance...
(IMG:http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm259/m4rkbr0wn/DSC03150-1.jpg)
Also what color are the bands on a 10k ohm resistor?
This post has been edited by UnknownProjects: Feb 20 2009, 11:12 PM
Post by: yaywoop on February 20, 2009, 09:01:00 PM
QUOTE(UnknownProjects @ Feb 21 2009, 09:47 AM)
I was wondering what else i exactly needed, and if i could use this transitor i have pictured,
A quick reply would be nice,
Thanks in advance...
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm259/m.../DSC03150-1.jpg
Also what color are the bands on a 10k ohm resistor?
that ain't a transistor mate.
google the part number
everything you need is covered in the first post
QUOTE(phoduma @ Feb 20 2009, 10:02 PM)
i need little help, heres some of my key extraction screenshots
as u can see, my status is BAD, also my key slightly changes too..
What am i doing wrong? is it my usb driver? i know i did everything correctly in making the extraction tool and check it over 10x or more because i couldnt find out what i was doing wrong, HELP PLZ!!
it coult be your usb thing. it could also be an old dodgy transistor, or you may have the wrong resistor values
This post has been edited by yaywoop: Feb 21 2009, 05:02 AM
Post by: wildwild on February 21, 2009, 05:37:00 AM
Post by: LogiK47 on February 21, 2009, 07:37:00 AM
Having some major dilemnas.
Tried both a P NP2222a and a C945 transistor (currently in atm, ECB pinout, tried BCE too).. Nothing is working, allways getting com port sent nothing thing. Im just using 2 pins straight onto pins 2 and 5 on a serial porton the rear of my pc. My circuit is good, though I get nothing in real term or hyperterminal. I am opening drive to half way, turning off xbox, connecting everything up, then turning it on again (have pin 3/9 cut) but yeh basically getting NOTHING through the Com port..
Any ideas?
Cheers,
Cameron.
Post by: yaywoop on February 21, 2009, 08:10:00 AM
QUOTE(wildwild @ Feb 22 2009, 12:13 AM)
That is a nice 12V voltage regulator. It sure will burn either the DVD drive or the serial port or both (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jester.gif)
actually it wouldn't damage anything at all, it just won't work.
QUOTE(LogiK47 @ Feb 22 2009, 02:13 AM)
Hi all,
Having some major dilemnas.
Tried both a P NP2222a and a C945 transistor (currently in atm, ECB pinout, tried BCE too).. Nothing is working, allways getting com port sent nothing thing. Im just using 2 pins straight onto pins 2 and 5 on a serial porton the rear of my pc. My circuit is good, though I get nothing in real term or hyperterminal. I am opening drive to half way, turning off xbox, connecting everything up, then turning it on again (have pin 3/9 cut) but yeh basically getting NOTHING through the Com port..
Any ideas?
Cheers,
Cameron.
if you think its your serial port.. do a loopback test.
it is much more likely to be your circuit or connections. test it out with a multimeter.
what makes you think your circuit is good?
Post by: LogiK47 on February 21, 2009, 05:09:00 PM
Um just because i've checked it and checked it and checked it. does any know if the C945 pinout is correct?
Post by: killerz on February 21, 2009, 06:56:00 PM
BUT it takes many many attempts to get jungleflasher to read the key...is it my probe i make i dont think ,,its a arm from a tester.and i have everything solder perfectly....could it be something else? drivers? my seral...please any help would be nice
Post by: Norco on February 21, 2009, 08:16:00 PM
Post by: Norco on February 22, 2009, 05:50:00 AM
Post by: killerz on February 22, 2009, 06:55:00 AM
i think it took 30-40 trys to get it to read 6 times and save the key.
all it would do is read once or twice or even read the key 5 times than bad data(using jungleflasher)
so i know the reader works just not that good.is there somthing i can do?.i dubble checked all connections changed the prob 4 times,always the same thing.we have 2 more liteon drives we need done but damn soooooooooo hard to get the key.....
any help or pointers would rock
using yaywoop reader.
Post by: captianmo81 on February 23, 2009, 08:47:00 AM
Post by: yaywoop on February 23, 2009, 09:27:00 AM
QUOTE(killerz @ Feb 23 2009, 01:31 AM)
any ideals........takes alot of trys to get the key.
i think it took 30-40 trys to get it to read 6 times and save the key.
all it would do is read once or twice or even read the key 5 times than bad data(using jungleflasher)
so i know the reader works just not that good.is there somthing i can do?.i dubble checked all connections changed the prob 4 times,always the same thing.we have 2 more liteon drives we need done but damn soooooooooo hard to get the key.....
any help or pointers would rock
using yaywoop reader.
if jungleflahser is giving you grief, try one of the other software tools.
or boot into dos and use the latest dosflash or dvdkey
Post by: captianmo81 on February 23, 2009, 09:54:00 AM
Post by: UnknownProjects on February 23, 2009, 11:20:00 PM
but for any techies out there could somebody just make a simple one of these for me and maybe ship it???
Or maybe just ship me some parts pleaseee, but preferably the first option because i wouldn't even know how to put it together, haha i can't read diagrams and what not, i would have to have a video tutorial or a step-by-step picture guide with it...
Just PM me please somebody with help,
i really wanna get this done, because my friend has my firmwared 360, and he has a non-firmwared 360 with the lite-on and it has the HDMI port and he said if i firmware that one i can just keep it!
So i really need help.
Post by: 2gunsup on February 24, 2009, 10:10:00 AM
My question is what parts of the original instructions can I leave out since I am powering the 360 drive via the kit. I have tried searching through this massive thread to no avail.
Thanks.
Post by: oisuxx on February 24, 2009, 10:33:00 AM
i also wanted to put a LED on there too but i dont see that in the diagram.
(IMG:http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/8955/io888856z9lr8.png)
thanks in advance.. and THANK you for posting this information (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: UnknownProjects on February 24, 2009, 04:13:00 PM
It would be greatly appreciated.
Post by: JBmtk on February 24, 2009, 08:50:00 PM
QUOTE(oisuxx @ Feb 24 2009, 01:09 PM)
i am trying to build this myself and going by this guide i had a question. for the 5V molex connection i have it going to an external drive enclosure. the ground, can i have that going to the enclosure as well?
i also wanted to put a LED on there too but i dont see that in the diagram.
(IMG:http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/8955/io888856z9lr8.png)
thanks in advance.. and THANK you for posting this information (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
this has already been done earlier in this thread...basically put a low voltage LED where Tx meets the end of the resistor. Make sure the + side is going towards Tx and - towards ground (connect ground pin on serial). Add in a small resistor as well...say 100 ohms
This post has been edited by JBmtk: Feb 25 2009, 04:51 AM
Post by: captianmo81 on February 24, 2009, 10:22:00 PM
QUOTE(oisuxx @ Feb 24 2009, 01:09 PM)
i am trying to build this myself and going by this guide i had a question. for the 5V molex connection i have it going to an external drive enclosure. the ground, can i have that going to the enclosure as well?
i also wanted to put a LED on there too but i dont see that in the diagram.
(IMG:http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/8955/io888856z9lr8.png)
thanks in advance.. and THANK you for posting this information (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
If you are using the xbox 360 to power the drive then you can just take leg E and attach it to pin 5 and then ground the chasis of the xbox to the chasis of the pc, because from my understanding pin 5 is a ground itself. This is how I did it and it works fine. I also took a molex connector off of an old case fan I had and used it for the 5v so that I could just plug it into a connection inside the pc.
Post by: thet2 on February 25, 2009, 10:27:00 AM
I have a usb to serial adaptor (using prolific 2303 chip) win vista 64 detects this no problem.
there are 4 wires,5 wires, 2 black (one the shield), one red (outputs 4.9v) one white and one green.
I will use the connectivity kit v2 to power the drive, do i just need to connect the (green TX) cable from the usb adaptor to the tx point on the liteon? do i need to plug the ground and red (4.9v) anywere? it's a bit confusing from all the different types. (i will run a cable from the pc case to the dvd case)
Thanks for all your help
Post by: strawsy on March 11, 2009, 03:15:00 AM
Post by: strawsy on March 11, 2009, 11:12:00 AM
Post by: lebthug on March 11, 2009, 11:15:00 PM
QUOTE(Tiburonicus @ Mar 11 2009, 04:36 AM)
OMG!! wow I've been struggling for about a week wondering why the heck my circuit is giving me such a
headache followed instructions over and over again, i bought the exact same package of 15 as you did but
I've been using the 2222 and the 3904 and I never realized that there were 4401's in the package. Sir you
just might be a life saver, I'm going to switch out my transistors right now, try out the 4401 and post my
results later.
I basically got the same package, and tried the circuit in 1st post with all 3 transistors with no success (2222, 3904 and 4401).
I however get the same result with all 3:
In DOS, dvdkey "COM port anyways seems to work" and "sega: 54", in windows, jungleflasher detects the drive but freezes when getting the key, and winkey32 freezes also, but not the pc tho just the programs.
I am using a PCI via card that I bought for my old 360 with ms 28, and I removed via drivers from windows, running only with portio32 ...
I checked that my com port echoes properly when i short the pins, and if I use realterm and set it to HEX all the drive sends is 00 00 00 etc. no matter the state of the tray :S
I'm kinda out of ideas... to me next step is get a max3232 and try...
Anyone got any idea or suggestion?
Post by: Ch240 on March 11, 2009, 11:43:00 PM
Ive got my key, it was really easy, the schematics are clear you only need to read a little. I didnt have any knowledge of soldering or electronics and i went to radioshack and made my own connectivity kit, the only part that I had trouble was the probe ( i tried for half a hour to make it work). But sadly after i got the key (In jungerflasher) i was trying to erase the drive and accidentaly i put the cable the wrong way and my drive isnt working right now. Now im waiting for a samsung MS28 drive to spoof it.
Anyway thanks men, I fried my drive but now i learned from mistakes..... i think, the next time it will be easier. Soon i will post images of my connectivity kit.
____
This post has been edited by Ch240: Mar 12 2009, 06:45 AM
Post by: Tiburonicus on March 12, 2009, 02:07:00 AM
flashed 2 liteons back to back using this setup if anyone is still skeptical out there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pop.gif)
Post by: neomatrix on March 12, 2009, 05:53:00 PM
Post by: lebthug on March 12, 2009, 09:37:00 PM
I have it powered from the dvddrive and check the voltage between ground and Tx (basically the 2 wire that will be going to pc serial port)
When I put 0V as input I read 5V and when I put 5V as input I read 0V. From what I've read this is proper behavior, am I right??
When I hook up the wires to the com port (which I tested with a loopback test and know works), and the input to R707 I get the following:
- When drive is closed I get a continuous stream of 00000000...
- When I press eject, realterm stops receiving anything
I then unplug drive, close half way, replug drive and I get 0000 and that's it, nothing more.
Any method of extracting the key fails...
I've tried this many times and always the same result (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Also if I check the voltage at R707 i read a continuous 3.3V, is this normal?
Post by: mossesmos on March 14, 2009, 02:48:00 PM
the problem is hyperterminal is responding perfectly i.e (when i type on screen via keyboard i can actually see characters ...when i bridge pin 2 and 3 but) when i go for 5v probe test (without 2 to 3 bridged) it fails me.. i can see no input on screen I.e there is somethink wrong with the probe or the way i m testing it
here are the pics of my setup..
(IMG:http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/ff425aa98d.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/8599277c15.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/52a6e2883f.jpg)
any help ill be really really appreciated...
This post has been edited by mossesmos: Mar 14 2009, 09:49 PM
Post by: uradodah on March 14, 2009, 03:01:00 PM
QUOTE(mossesmos @ Mar 14 2009, 03:48 PM)
i spent arnd 30 mins to make it and now 6 hours still i m clueless why its spear not working ... where i leave myself a blunder as i followed the tutorial religiously...
the problem is hyperterminal is responding perfectly i.e (when i type on screen via keyboard i can actually see characters ...when i bridge pin 2 and 3 but) when i go for 5v probe test (without 2 to 3 bridged) it fails me.. i can see no input on screen I.e there is somethink wrong with the probe or the way i m testing it
here are the pics of my setup..
any help ill be really really appreciated...
I'm just pokin' fun here...
3 words: focus, new grout.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
Post by: RevolverJazz on March 20, 2009, 10:20:00 AM
So I finally tried to retrieve his key last night but I couldn't, JF was reporting bad serial connection (or something like that.) So I went to the website and found this tutorial and it says the LED on the converter is supposed to light up. By the way, I have a USB to DB9 connector as my comp doesn't have serial ports. I can't get the LED to stay lit up with the adapter fully plugged into the converter, I have to wiggle them around and barely make connection. I have the 360 powering the DVD drive and these are both touching my comp case. When I can finally get the LED lit up, I go to touch the R707 point and the LED turns off.
SO, do I have something not hooked up correctly? Or maybe the converter is bad? HERE is a better pic of the adapter I'm using.
I just feel like scrapping the thing and building my own w/the parts and your guide! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Post by: 6kwar on February 02, 2020, 05:49:00 PM
First I used NPN TIP41A. Got the wrong key all the time.
Switched to another NPN model emj3055t. Worked the first time.
Excellent job my friend. Because of you another xbox is free.
Played some backups. Works great.
Thank you.
Post by: ncaaplayer4 on February 02, 2020, 07:21:00 PM
I got my key on my lite-on three times.
I got a CK3 frist and it did not work on lite-on.
Post by: jumal on February 03, 2020, 04:40:00 AM
Heres a pic of my setup. Looks horrific, but works like a charm.
(IMG:http://jumal.pri.ee/temp/sexyshit.jpg)
Post by: phiquach on February 03, 2020, 05:33:00 PM
My setup. Pretty simple setup. Works great.
This post has been edited by phiquach: Today, 01:33 AM
Post by: sthetix on March 24, 2009, 07:54:00 PM
Post by: thunderfat on April 22, 2009, 02:18:00 AM
I have just bought a used 360, tore it apart and it has the lite on dvd.
I don't want to wait nor spend more than $30 on modding it so I came here to look for answers.
I have done some soldering before but nothing too crazy.
I made a little diagram that I can understand and I want to know if this is all it takes to get the key off the dvd-rom.
(IMG:http://i40.tinypic.com/23tpl3q.jpg)
Let me know feedback, on what I need to do.
Also I tried looking for a serial connector, i couldnt find a female one, where can I nab one?
Also I dont have a com port on my computer, and I would like to do com to usb, this should have no problem correct? I just have to load windows up normally and use different software?
Please get back to me, I want to start right away. Thanks!
Post by: JBmtk on April 23, 2009, 09:19:00 PM
Post by: cp737 on April 23, 2009, 10:06:00 PM
Post by: cp737 on April 24, 2009, 11:09:00 AM
Post by: dopeman5000 on April 28, 2009, 02:36:00 PM
QUOTE(kobazz @ Dec 6 2008, 09:12 AM)
I did it like this but it won't work. Any clues what i'm doing wrong here?
Since my PC isn't grounded through the power cord I have made a true gnd between the PC casing and a metal water pipe.
For anybody having problems with JF reading the key here is what i did different(The pics are very well done and make it much easier... Thanks!!)
First the only soldering on the DVD Drive is bridging the R707.
Second the third pic with the npn connections are right and should be fallowed BUT you must look up your npn datasheet because they likely aren't the same, (CBE) pins (123) Mine were (ECB) pins (123) .
Start by making the exact same as the third pic and connect as to your npn. But connect the 5v to a external source so your not risking your key you don't have.solder a safety pin to the TxD and fire up JF with everything connected, select your ports and stick the TxD safety pin in the R707 hole and get key
This is what worked for me and soldering the wires to the PBC did not !
Many Thanks to Kobazz for the pics,They helped me out big time This may or may not work for everybody i was using a USB Serial, the connectivity kit v1, a C945 npn and didn't remove pin 3
Adam
Post by: mahalt on May 01, 2009, 11:10:00 PM
QUOTE(ciph @ Mar 7 2009, 01:37 AM)
I bought a couple of NPNs from Radio Shack after having problems with the original one I got. I never could get the key to dump with these transistors that Radio Shack sells:
MPS2222A
2N3904
I bought 2 of both and got nothing but zeros everytime I tried. As soon as I replaced those two with a 2N4401 from Radio Shack it worked perfectly. I got this transistor out of this package of 15 - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2062586
I figured this might save someone else the headaches I went through trying to figure out what was wrong.
I'm so glad you posted this. I also had MPS2222A and ran into the same problem. Turns out, the dumbasses at Radio Shack documented the pinouts incorrectly on the package. The correct ones can be found here:
http://girasoli.org/arcade/wp-content/uplo...222a-tip122.jpg
Post by: talwinder on May 02, 2009, 12:21:00 AM
can i then spoof it to any other computer drive of any brand as long as it has sata support
and also can i flash the same lite-on successfully using latest jungleflasher
Post by: dobosininja on May 07, 2009, 02:46:00 PM
Did I fry my lite-on board? I was unable to extract the key even when using the correct 5v...could I of fried the transistor or the 1k resistor? I was using the ms2222a transistor from radio shak that apparently is documented wrong on the package maybe that is why i can't get the key to extract.
Post by: 89c4l98 on May 07, 2009, 04:56:00 PM
QUOTE(dobosininja @ May 7 2009, 04:08 PM)
I accidently used the 12v to power the key extractor and now my drive is not spinning up
Did I fry my lite-on board? I was unable to extract the key even when using the correct 5v...could I of fried the transistor or the 1k resistor? I was using the ms2222a transistor from radio shak that apparently is documented wrong on the package maybe that is why i can't get the key to extract.you fried something on the board if it will not spin up.
Post by: dobosininja on May 07, 2009, 07:44:00 PM
Post by: storm4fun on May 10, 2009, 10:43:00 AM
if yes what is the steps?
if no what software to use to flash the drive with ix1.5.1 after getting the key using this method?
Post by: dobosininja on May 10, 2009, 03:06:00 PM
Post by: metalphreak on May 14, 2009, 12:36:00 PM
Breadboard and spare parts FTW. The only thing I had to get was a crocodile clip to ground my xbox to pc chassis
5v pink wire is from a molex to 3pin fan adapter. The pin slides straight out of the plastic.
DosFlash kept telling me that I had an invalid key. DVDKey worked fine though. What I did was run DVDKey while holding the needle in the TX point, keeping it there until DVDKey is done, and then running DosFlash WITHOUT removing the needle or rebooting the drive.
Thanks heaps for the design
Super cheap and easy!EDIT: in case anyone is wondering, the coloured wires with the black bits are just jumper cables. They are awesome for using with breadboard.
Red = COM Pin 2 / RX
Black = COM Pin 5 / Ground
Yellow = TX X360
Orange = Jumper wire to 5v (pink wire wasn't long enough)
Post by: brian30 on May 15, 2009, 10:04:00 AM
QUOTE(NumpXP @ Dec 3 2008, 08:14 AM)
i have arduino usb board in hand. is it possible to read the keys using it?
Very possible and the easiest way I've seen without buying a kit. The way I see it if you buy an arduino atleast it's good for other things other than just getting a key.
Just download CDM 2.04.16.exe and pop out the atmega chip making it a gateway.
I ran a paperclip from the tx hole and hooked one side of a multimeter wire to it for my probe. Had my key in seconds.
Post by: suhas93 on May 16, 2009, 10:02:00 AM
I just need some confirmations (I know most of the answers, but just to confirm) ...because this is my first flash...
1) If I make this, I wont need CK3. right?
2) I want to flash my liteon, will I need the VIA SATA chipset? or any other SATA board will do?
3) If i power the dvd drive with the xbox, will it work?
4) If so, should I disconnect the eject wire from the power cable (dvd drive) and connect it to ground. Or can I use the eject button on the xbox?
5) I could not understand the route from pin 5 to E (on the transistor) from what I saw in post #931.
dvd ground, crocodile clip etc etc
Or can I just connect pin 5 to E?
Sorry for my bad english...
Sorry if this has been repeated...I can't go through 63 pages.
Thanks in advance
Post by: ScooterMAC on May 19, 2009, 12:51:00 AM
Post by: suhas93 on May 19, 2009, 10:45:00 PM
First of all @metalphreak Thanks a lot
Heres my setup
These 'could' be the flaws..
* I'm using molex wires.
* 1k resistor hav bands...Brown Black Red Gold
* 10k resistors hav bands Brown Black Orange Gold
Correct me if I'm wrong
1) I can't find out which COM port I Have plugged this in. I have COM1 and COM2. Please help me out.
2) And while extracting the key, should we place the wires on the hole or should the wires pass through the hole?
Post by: keeper7 on May 19, 2009, 11:34:00 PM
I want to try this mod.
Can I use a 2N3904 transistor?
I've heard that is possible to flash lite-on drives since feb of this year. Is it correct?
Thanks
Post by: suhas93 on May 19, 2009, 11:51:00 PM
QUOTE(keeper7 @ May 20 2009, 09:56 AM)
Hi there!
I want to try this mod.
Can I use a 2N3904 transistor?
I've heard that is possible to flash lite-on drives since feb of this year. Is it correct?
Thanks
Any transistor would do..
Yes it is possible to flash liteon drives
Post by: suhas93 on May 20, 2009, 03:45:00 AM
Post by: suhas93 on May 20, 2009, 09:43:00 AM
Now, to flash it..whenever i connect the 360 dvd drive to the computer, it hangs!!
please help!!!
Post by: dobosininja on May 20, 2009, 12:45:00 PM
Post by: keeper7 on May 20, 2009, 03:29:00 PM
QUOTE(suhas93 @ May 20 2009, 12:37 AM)
It didn't work, can you people help me discover the flaw?
First of all @metalphreak Thanks a lot
Heres my setup
These 'could' be the flaws..
* I'm using molex wires.
* 1k resistor hav bands...Brown Black Red Gold
* 10k resistors hav bands Brown Black Orange Gold
Correct me if I'm wrong
1) I can't find out which COM port I Have plugged this in. I have COM1 and COM2. Please help me out.
2) And while extracting the key, should we place the wires on the hole or should the wires pass through the hole?
Hi,
I see you follow the first post schematics but where is the pin 5 that goes to ground? Don't you use it?
Post by: suhas93 on May 21, 2009, 11:16:00 AM
QUOTE(keeper7 @ May 21 2009, 01:51 AM)
Hi,
I see you follow the first post schematics but where is the pin 5 that goes to ground? Don't you use it?
Now Im' done with the hardware part..
About the software part..
My lite-on is locked. I have watched many video on how to recover on iprep but when I try to boot on iprep, i get the letter "j".
Is there any way out?
Post by: shamus666 on May 22, 2009, 09:31:00 AM
QUOTE(suhas93 @ May 21 2009, 11:08 AM)
Now Im' done with the hardware part..
About the software part..
My lite-on is locked. I have watched many video on how to recover on iprep but when I try to boot on iprep, i get the letter "j".
Is there any way out?
Have you tried following this post? http://www.360mods.n...u...pic&t=12883
My drive stopped responding between erasing and resetting and I was able to continue using the methods described.
Post by: suhas93 on May 23, 2009, 02:50:00 AM
These were the problems I had to overcome...entered this here, so that this information can help others.
I tried doing it by win98 boot cd. It didn't work.
'cdr101 not ready reading drive' error kept flashing..
So I tried free dos (150 mb)
It worked like a charm.
I kept getting FF7F status.
I power down the drive for about 5 seconds. and tried it again..it worked..
Post by: ScooterMAC on May 23, 2009, 04:10:00 AM
Post by: p3eps on May 23, 2009, 08:17:00 AM
I found all the bits lying about at work - a multimeter probe, a Molex power connector, a serial cable, 10k and 1k resistors, and a BC547 transistor. Soldered it all together in 20 mins, and with a few bits of heat shrink it actually looks pretty decent.
Took it home and went to plug it into my computer - to discover my new motherboard doesn't have a serial port! A quick trip to Maplin for a USB -> Serial adapter, and I'm sorted. I already own a Xeon connectivity kit from years ago, so it makes the whole thing a little easier.
Followed the steps provided in the JungleFlasher manual - all went smoothly. Tested and working!
Thanks yaywoop for bringing this simple adapter to our attention. It saved my friend buying a £40 adapter - although I'm still going to get the cash off him for the serial -> USB adapter!!!
Post by: p3eps on May 23, 2009, 08:27:00 AM
QUOTE(JBmtk @ Apr 24 2009, 04:19 AM)
circuit looks fine....you'll probably have trouble using com->usb or whatever you decide. I would suggest opening up your computer and finding the COM pins on your motheboard. Most latest mobos out there no longer have the serial port on the outside. I would be very surprised if yours does not have an onboard COM port. Look up your motheboard on google for a layout.
More and more motherboards are being manufactured now without COM ports - as nobody ever uses them (except when flashing an xbox
).I was surprised to find mine didn't have a COM port last night as its a brand new Asus board... but then it was a lower budget one rather than a top end one like my last one. I bought a USB -> COM adapter made by Nikkai today from Maplin and installed the supplied software. It made it COM7, which I checked with the supplied software. I simply picked COM7 in Jungleflasher, and the flashing process went flawlessly!
Post by: h0ju on June 01, 2009, 04:04:00 PM
Post by: DriveJira on June 01, 2009, 04:44:00 PM
QUOTE(h0ju @ Jun 1 2009, 05:04 PM)
do you still need to bridge 707 for this?
I don't think you need to bridge R707 if you're using this DIY key extractor. I've successfully flashed 3 so far and I never put a soldering iron near the drive.
Post by: Coldblackice on June 02, 2009, 01:30:00 AM
Loopback test on usb-serial adapter passes in realterm. I get 5v on pin 2 of serial when homemade probe pin isn't connected to anything. If I connect the probe pin to the TX of the serial adapter and then perform a loopback test, I'll get characters for each keypress, although they are different than the actual keys pressed on the keyboard (pressing 'g' gives 'L', etc.).
If only I could get SOME kind of serial input from the drive, even if it's 0's. Is it possible to get some kind of data like this in realterm? Or does JF have some special function which it sends over SATA to get the drive to "talk"?
Are there multimeter tests I can do to check other sources of potential failure?
I'm fairly confident that my homemade extractor is working right, otherwise, I wouldn't imagine that it would return the converted-chars back for the loopback test. But when I put my probe on r707, I always get bad serial data in JF. (How can I see what data JF is getting back? Can I do this in realterm without sending requests over the SATA?)
Post by: skyliner99 on June 04, 2009, 06:54:00 PM
QUOTE(yifan_lu @ Dec 29 2008, 01:57 AM)
Hello, I'm a noob at this, and I think I followed the directions correctly, but can someone tell me if I did it right or what I need to change. Also I want to know if ground is needed? (I didn't bother). Thanks.
Here's what it looks like right now:
(Underneath the tape are the parts soldered together)
P.S: Is there any way to test the device before messing with the 360?
is the alligator clip to the dvd case necessary?
I followed the original post word for word, and i don't see a mention of a ground or anything, so before i attempt flashing, can someone clear this up?
Also, i am using a db 25 to db9 converter, i checked the pinouts and connected the corresponding wires as such: db25 pin 3->2 and pin 7->5
Will that cause any problems?
thanks
-sky
Post by: Coldblackice on June 05, 2009, 03:04:00 PM
Can anyone post or PM about the actual technical side of what's going on with this circuit? I'm interested to know. From what I gather, the XBOX sends out a signal (TTL) that needs to be converted to RS232 (serial) so the computer can read it.
Question -- isn't that what an USB-to-SERIAL does? Why do we need to make this extra circuit?
I presume that a usb-to-serial cable doesn't actually convert TTL signals, which we need. ?
Finally, last question -- I initially wired the circuit up right, however, I couldn't get ANY kind of data off the xbox. Even in realterm, touching the points with my probe wouldn't even bring up 00's or null characters. However, when I did a loopback test THROUGH my probe and into the serial, I would get positive results -- for every key I pressed on the keyboard, I would get a character back through my probe, to the RX of the serial. The letters would be different than what I pressed ('F' for 'a', for example), however, I assumed this was the conversion/voltage amplification process.
I am sure my transistor was NPN. Out of ideas, I went to Radio Shack and got a new transistor. I wired it up to my circuit. AGAIN, I got the same letter conversions when doing a loopback test through my probe ('F' for 'a', etc.). I figured this meant that I was doomed to not get any data off my xbox. However, as soon as I touched the probe to r707, I got a bunch of 00's and null characters in realterm. I was getting SOMETHING off the drive!
As luck would have it, I proceeded to extract my key, and BAM -- got it on the first try.
So finally my question -- does anyone know why changing this transistor made a difference (From a technical standpoint). Is there something I could look at in their respective data sheets to understand why the first transistor was preventing ANY data from coming through on my probe? I assume that perhaps the transistor just had too much resistance of some sorts, preventing the very low voltage and light-weight signals from the xbox to make it through to the computer.
Thanks!
Post by: skyliner99 on June 05, 2009, 09:28:00 PM
Post by: skyliner99 on June 06, 2009, 09:06:00 PM
I find the drive in JF while my pc is not in legacy and the drive is on a mobo SATA port
I am using a db9-db25 converter but i checked the pinouts and connected pins 2 & 5 to the db 25 equivalent( 3 & 7)
I think the problem is in the ejecting of drive
1 I power on the xbox
2 I eject the drive
3 I unplug the whole dvd power cable
4 Push the drive roughly 1/2 way
5 reconnect the dvd power
this is really bugging me and Any help will be greatly appreciated
-sky
Post by: coreyinoz on June 06, 2009, 11:12:00 PM
Just want to add my thanks to yaywoop and all the other propellerheads out there. This guide is just what I needed.
After reading this guide, I took my solderless breadboard out of the closet, cannibalized some parts from various places, and successfully flashed my first Lite-on. Old serial cable, transistor from guitar pedal, pogo pin for the probe from work (handy to work with engineers sometimes).
I'm embarassed to say that it took 2 tries because I tapped into 12V instead of 5V on my PSU molex the first time around
Rewired it to 5V, and all good!
In case anyone is wondering, JungleFlasher works just fine on Windows 7 RC... I just took a chance. No worries on my nForce 4 board - although it did take some time to find the spot in Win 7 to manually add devices for the PortIO driver.
Thanks again!
coreyinoz
Post by: kill_seth on June 14, 2009, 06:57:00 PM
Could Someone Make Me A Step By Step Tutorial? I Know That's A Lot To Ask But It Would Really Help! I Will Be Testing It On My Little Sisters LiteOn Drive, Mine Is A Benq Already Flashed.
I Know I'm A Noob With LiteOn Drives
If You Could Send Me A Link To My Email It Would Be Great
[email protected]
Thanks For Your Time!
Post by: MuchMore on June 16, 2009, 05:30:00 PM
i did the circuit and the pc identical the dvd drive but when i pressed get key...
and thet what i get:
http://i41.tinypic.com/aewsy1.jpg
the dvd what half open and i disconnect pin3 and power back the drive...
plz help
if need pic of the circuit just say
**sorry for the bad english...
Post by: yaywoop on June 16, 2009, 06:22:00 PM
QUOTE(kill_seth @ Jun 15 2009, 10:57 AM)
Hey Guys Im New... I've Been Flashing Peoples Xboxes For A Little While And I Always Seem To Run Into Someone With A LiteOn Drive. I Wanna Order A Kit And A Prob But I Want To Try This First!
Could Someone Make Me A Step By Step Tutorial? I Know That's A Lot To Ask But It Would Really Help! I Will Be Testing It On My Little Sisters LiteOn Drive, Mine Is A Benq Already Flashed.
I Know I'm A Noob With LiteOn Drives
If You Could Send Me A Link To My Email It Would Be Great
[email protected]
Thanks For Your Time!
check out this one
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=671025
QUOTE(MuchMore @ Jun 17 2009, 09:30 AM)
hi...
i did the circuit and the pc identical the dvd drive but when i pressed get key...
and thet what i get:
http://i41.tinypic.com/aewsy1.jpg
the dvd what half open and i disconnect pin3 and power back the drive...
plz help
if need pic of the circuit just say
**sorry for the bad english...
I replied to your pm, but i will post this here for anyone else. this is the generic troubleshooting guide i give to anyone who gets bad serial data.
probably the easiest way of testing the hardware its self is to open up HyperTerminal (its in start>programs>accessories>communications)
to set up the program..
1 enter a name, anything
2 select the com port you have it plugged in to. if its just the one in the back of your computer, com1 is usually it.
3 enter flow control, none.
now get your probe and brush the probe tip against a 1.5V or 5v voltage, for example the same place you are powering the probe from.
when you brush the probe against 5v, it sends random pulses to the computer, which it displays as random characters.
so if garbage shows up in hyperterm when you brush the probe against 1.5 or 5V, your probe is working.
(you can use a AA battery to get the 1.5V) using 1.5V is a better test than 5V because its a closer voltage to what the dvd drive uses, and tests that the gain of the transistor is ok.
if nothing shows up in hyperterm either
1 your circuit is not wired correctly. check the tutorial again and check the pinout of the transistor you used. also check your connections to the serial plug, and to the power supply (5V)
2 one of the components you used is dead, usually the transistor is to blame. try another one. also check the resistor values
3 your serial port isn't working.. try connecting pin 3 to pin 5 and in hyperterm (as above) type stuff, it should appear on screen. if your serial port doesn't work, try installing the motherboard drivers again.
if stuff shows up in hyperterm, the hardware is fine. follow the jungleflasher tutorial to the word!
1 check that the tray is half way out when you try to read the key.
2 make sure you are probing the right spot, R707.
3 try re-powering the drive.
you can also test the circuit by probing voltages with a multimeter. with the probe connected to ground, the output to the serial port should be 5v. with the probe connected to 1.5V-5V, the probe output should be 0V (you can test this with a AA battery for the 1.5V)
Post by: yonsje on June 21, 2009, 03:40:00 PM
Is it okay to use an N-channel FET instead a transisotor?
I only have a BS170 at hand.
Post by: yonsje on June 22, 2009, 08:18:00 AM
Post by: Bloodmaster25 on July 13, 2009, 02:11:00 AM
so just thank you again keep up the good work i am sure there are millions of people out there who appreciate what you are doing like me thanks.
Post by: dennisv9 on July 13, 2009, 07:41:00 AM
i am trying to construct the liteon reader, my materials:
1 an 10 kohm, 1 x c1815 transistor (ECB) one serial plug and some wire and a 5 volt molex plug
i soldered it together and when i try to test it using hyperterminal and a 1.5 / 3 volt battery i get nothing. i test whether the resistors were broken (they give 1 and 10 kohm so they work fine), i put my multimeter on the c1815 transistor (i get several readings when probing the different leads, which leads me to believe the transistor is oke). i've double checked the circuitry, that is fine also. but still no luck, when i attach it to my serial port and probe a liteon drive i get the message serial data bad.
somewhere there must be a problem in my key reader, since the hyperterminal test does not show me anything. ive rebuild it three times, every time with new resistors and transistors. all the time i get the same error / no read in hyperterminal.
is there any way to test the transistor in circuit? the only thing i can imagine is that the transistor is damaged with soldering. it does give me a read out, but i am not sure what it is supposed to read out.
i also constructed one free style, so i only connected the transistor and resistors by wrapping the metal legs around each other and directly pinning it into the serial port (so no soldering at all), still no hyperterminal and serial data bad message.....
any insights what i am doing wrong
Post by: FalconLTD on July 13, 2009, 11:14:00 AM
Post by: Daitron on July 13, 2009, 05:00:00 PM
Well i have a few questions...
if i made my xtractor follow this scheme
(IMG:http://www.devilsps3.centelia.net/liteon/index_files/image004.jpg)
and this is the final result
(IMG:http://dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox%20360/Maxim3232%20DreamProto2/Maxim3232+DreamProto2.3.jpg)
the right form to connect this to my Lite-On is this (see the next picture)
(IMG:http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/3463/circuitom.jpg)
Can i connect the 3.3v of my RS232 to the line of 3.3v in the molex of my pc FONT???
i hope you understand my poor english.
Thanks
Post by: FalconLTD on July 14, 2009, 08:58:00 AM
QUOTE(Daitron @ Jul 13 2009, 07:00 PM)
Can i connect the 3.3v of my RS232 to the line of 3.3v in the molex of my pc FONT???
I dont think a molex has 3.3v. The sata power plug has 3.3v. You can also use the xbox to power the drive instead
Post by: mohomuhammad on July 14, 2009, 10:03:00 PM
QUOTE(FalconLTD @ Jul 13 2009, 11:14 AM)
I am in the same boat as dennisv9 but I built my circuit five times. I even put a led to ensure good contact with the r707. The led lights up when the 10k line is connected to it. Everything works fine. Drive is detected using via 6421. When I click get key, all I get is serial data is bad. I am out of ideas. The circuit is working because I get symbols in hyperterminal. But the symbols only pop up now and then. My latest circuit dont give symbols. I dont know what is wrong
we all must be missing something..
I also built my circuit about 5 times, i got a 10 pack of transistors from radioshack.
I know my soldering and circuit is good, as i have modded many consoles before.
Using:
transistor(s)
2n7051
3904
10K, 1K resistors
30gauge wire for the TX probe
power supply cable for the 5V cable
i always get(**warning bad serial data) in JungleFlasher
and in Dosflash I get INVALID KEY.
i also have a USB to serial adapter i bought, im gonna try to get it working, as JF doesnt read its COM port...
Post by: Bloodmaster25 on July 15, 2009, 01:27:00 AM
QUOTE(mohomuhammad @ Jul 15 2009, 06:03 AM)
we all must be missing something..
I also built my circuit about 5 times, i got a 10 pack of transistors from radioshack.
I know my soldering and circuit is good, as i have modded many consoles before.
Using:
transistor(s)
2n7051
3904
10K, 1K resistors
30gauge wire for the TX probe
power supply cable for the 5V cable
i always get(**warning bad serial data) in JungleFlasher
and in Dosflash I get INVALID KEY.
i also have a USB to serial adapter i bought, im gonna try to get it working, as JF doesnt read its COM port...
Ok so here it goes you need to test your circuit what i did was ground my pc and my xbox with a cable then you need to put 5v through your 5v cable like on the diagram i also then soldered another ground wire from the negative pin on the serial cable and put that in the molex also with your 5v cable ok so now take your tester and check if you hold your positive lead on pin 2 on your serial cable and take the negative lead and just let it touch your pc case to ground it then you must get a 5v reading and then take your probe wire and push it in on a serial power cable (in your pc) with the orange wire that gives 3.3v check your reading now then it must be 0v if that is working correct and you still get (warning serial cable bad) then you have your connections wrong on the female com cable and then just switch it what i mean by that is you use the top row of the 9 pins like 01001 assume the 0's is your pins and the 1's is where you connect your wires swap it then so it will look like 10010 just the other way around and you should be fine however if your readings is not correct you have the wrong pins on your transistor then try swap your C and E pins on your transistor and check your readings again that's the only problem you guys can have its either wrong pins on the transistor or on your female cable but remember to check your readings first before attempting the extraction of your liteon key that would make things a lot easier to troubleshoot your problem. I hope this info helps thanx
Post by: dennisv9 on July 15, 2009, 05:59:00 AM
QUOTE(Bloodmaster25 @ Jul 15 2009, 09:27 AM)
Ok so here it goes you need to test your circuit what i did was ground my pc and my xbox with a cable then you need to put 5v through your 5v cable like on the diagram i also then soldered another ground wire from the negative pin on the serial cable and put that in the molex also with your 5v cable ok so now take your tester and check if you hold your positive lead on pin 2 on your serial cable and take the negative lead and just let it touch your pc case to ground it then you must get a 5v reading and then take your probe wire and push it in on a serial power cable (in your pc) with the orange wire that gives 3.3v check your reading now then it must be 0v if that is working correct and you still get (warning serial cable bad) then you have your connections wrong on the female com cable and then just switch it what i mean by that is you use the top row of the 9 pins like 01001 assume the 0's is your pins and the 1's is where you connect your wires swap it then so it will look like 10010 just the other way around and you should be fine however if your readings is not correct you have the wrong pins on your transistor then try swap your C and E pins on your transistor and check your readings again that's the only problem you guys can have its either wrong pins on the transistor or on your female cable but remember to check your readings first before attempting the extraction of your liteon key that would make things a lot easier to troubleshoot your problem. I hope this info helps thanx
i checked this (besides sticking the probe into 3.3volt, since i don't have one and do not want to stick it into the atx powersupply), but still no luck. i tried a different transistor (2144s) and soldered the contraption free style onto a spare comheader (yes, my mainboard has a com2 header onboard). off course, still no luck. can i use other value transistors? if so, which ones? is there a ratio that i have to keep in mind (1k and 10 k resistors in the original post, is this ratio 10? so 1.5 and 15 k resistors will do? or 1.5 k and 10 k or...? how do you calculate that
Post by: Bloodmaster25 on July 15, 2009, 07:27:00 AM
QUOTE(dennisv9 @ Jul 15 2009, 01:59 PM)
i checked this (besides sticking the probe into 3.3volt, since i don't have one and do not want to stick it into the atx powersupply), but still no luck. i tried a different transistor (2144s) and soldered the contraption free style onto a spare comheader (yes, my mainboard has a com2 header onboard). off course, still no luck. can i use other value transistors? if so, which ones? is there a ratio that i have to keep in mind (1k and 10 k resistors in the original post, is this ratio 10? so 1.5 and 15 k resistors will do? or 1.5 k and 10 k or...? how do you calculate that
Ok so to explain this there is NO ratio between the values of the resistors i would say just to be safe with your 1k resistor dont go above 2k or below 0.5k and for the 10k one i would say dont go over 20k or below 8k just to be safe that will do the trick and then for your transistor you can use any transistor but for this diagram it MUST be a NPN transistor i used one not even listed in the first post but i searched on the net for the code on it to make sure it is a NPN transistor then also for the PINOUT of the transistor for the CBE pins i also dont have a probe what i ment is just the wire you use that you will hold against the R707 hole i used a normal wire with a paper clip so that wire you need to connect it to 3.3v and then you must get a reading of 0v if you dont get it then your transistor's pins are wrong you need to swap your C and E around (If you are sure you got the base "B" correct) i can guarantee you if you dont get your multimeter to show 5v when your R707 wire is not connected to 3.3v and then 0v when its connected then it will definitely not work make sure you get these readings first if you do get it from there on its simple.
Post by: dennisv9 on July 15, 2009, 03:02:00 PM
QUOTE(Bloodmaster25 @ Jul 15 2009, 03:27 PM)
Ok so to explain this there is NO ratio between the values of the resistors i would say just to be safe with your 1k resistor dont go above 2k or below 0.5k and for the 10k one i would say dont go over 20k or below 8k just to be safe that will do the trick and then for your transistor you can use any transistor but for this diagram it MUST be a NPN transistor i used one not even listed in the first post but i searched on the net for the code on it to make sure it is a NPN transistor then also for the PINOUT of the transistor for the CBE pins i also dont have a probe what i ment is just the wire you use that you will hold against the R707 hole i used a normal wire with a paper clip so that wire you need to connect it to 3.3v and then you must get a reading of 0v if you dont get it then your transistor's pins are wrong you need to swap your C and E around (If you are sure you got the base "B" correct) i can guarantee you if you dont get your multimeter to show 5v when your R707 wire is not connected to 3.3v and then 0v when its connected then it will definitely not work make sure you get these readings first if you do get it from there on its simple.
i get 5 volt, and i will try to find a 3.3 volt power on my atx supply. i will stick the probe (i to use a small metal pin) it in to see if it goes to 0 volt.
i will also try 1.5 kohm and 15 kohm resistors, maybe that will do the trick. i will once again try another resistor and, to be sure, try both ways. i now which one is the base (leg 2), so i will construct the reader again and vary with leg 1 and 3 of the transistor (to be sure that at least one is the right one with the collector and emitter being connected correctly).
Post by: Bloodmaster25 on July 16, 2009, 12:40:00 AM
QUOTE(dennisv9 @ Jul 15 2009, 11:02 PM)
i get 5 volt, and i will try to find a 3.3 volt power on my atx supply. i will stick the probe (i to use a small metal pin) it in to see if it goes to 0 volt.
i will also try 1.5 kohm and 15 kohm resistors, maybe that will do the trick. i will once again try another resistor and, to be sure, try both ways. i now which one is the base (leg 2), so i will construct the reader again and vary with leg 1 and 3 of the transistor (to be sure that at least one is the right one with the collector and emitter being connected correctly).
Ok sure just look on your power connector for any sata device the orange wire is the one that gives 3.3v and the resistors you are using will do fine the reason why i said if u are sure you got the base is because transistors differ even if its a NPN transistor because your base can be leg 2 or 3 that's why i would suggest make sure the transistor you get is in fact a NPN transistor check on the net for the code on it then you will get a diagram for it as well and be 100% sure of the pins because it will show on the diagram but you are more than welcome to contact me any time for assistance i have send you a PM with my email address.
Post by: dennisv9 on July 16, 2009, 02:53:00 AM
QUOTE(Bloodmaster25 @ Jul 16 2009, 08:40 AM)
Ok sure just look on your power connector for any sata device the orange wire is the one that gives 3.3v and the resistors you are using will do fine the reason why i said if u are sure you got the base is because transistors differ even if its a NPN transistor because your base can be leg 2 or 3 that's why i would suggest make sure the transistor you get is in fact a NPN transistor check on the net for the code on it then you will get a diagram for it as well and be 100% sure of the pins because it will show on the diagram but you are more than welcome to contact me any time for assistance i have send you a PM with my email address.
i've looked up the datasheet of the different transistors. apparantly you should read the pinout (legs) from a top view (legs pointing upwards... this was my first mistake in my first reader....) but the transistor i now use has base on leg 2, so if the first try doesn't work, i will just try to switch leg 1 with 3. i don't have a sata power connector ('old' p4 atx psu), so i have to take the 3.3 volt straight out of the 20 pin atx connector... but i will give it another try, i will let you know (pm).
Post by: Dre@m on July 17, 2009, 07:49:00 AM
Key4Free USB Kit
Post by: FalconLTD on July 19, 2009, 01:10:00 PM
. Probably I am not cut out for soldering to modify the 360. I softmodded ps2's psp's and wii just fine. Also I want to mention, a funny thing happen to me just like you dennis, back in december when I now started to learn about modifying the 360. I built my circuit and always got nothing received by com port. Some how, during one attempt something shorted out and all of a sudden the circuit wire insulation started to melt. The pc power showed yellow which melt something shorted of. The pc also cut of. What was funny though was that on that attempt, dvdkey16 actually said comport seems working anyway. Only on that attempt it said that. After I rebuilt the circuit it was back to nothing received by com port.
Post by: FalconLTD on July 19, 2009, 01:36:00 PM
QUOTE(FalconLTD @ Dec 26 2008, 02:47 AM)
I made the circuit exactly shown in the diagram, it just doesn't work. The first circuit I made always said "nothing received by com port". Once it said "Com port seems ok" and circuit burnt down literally
. The wire insulation started melting and smoke started to rise. I pulled all plugged. I found all new parts - transistor etc. I built a new circuit with better wires and resistors. Now it gives the same error - Nothing received by com port. I dont know what's wrong. Everything is the SAME. Please help yes page 27. Good old times. Still doesn't work though. It has been SIX months now. Come on.
Post by: dennisv9 on July 19, 2009, 03:26:00 PM
QUOTE(FalconLTD @ Jul 19 2009, 09:10 PM)
You could have connected the power cable to the liteon drive upside down and fried the drive. Or the tip of the probe could have shorted out something in the drive. Yes, mohomuhammad we must be missing something. Maybe my serial port dont accept these types of connections that are not strict rs232. I also tried the circuit with the xbox on anotther pc and it didnt work. I am stuck and tired and having to rebuild circuits. I just mounted back up the xbox and wait until something is invented by the hack community that does not involve 'key extractors'.
. Probably I am not cut out for soldering to modify the 360. I softmodded ps2's psp's and wii just fine. Also I want to mention, a funny thing happen to me just like you dennis, back in december when I now started to learn about modifying the 360. I built my circuit and always got nothing received by com port. Some how, during one attempt something shorted out and all of a sudden the circuit wire insulation started to melt. The pc power showed yellow which melt something shorted of. The pc also cut of. What was funny though was that on that attempt, dvdkey16 actually said comport seems working anyway. Only on that attempt it said that. After I rebuilt the circuit it was back to nothing received by com port.i've connected the power cable all right, i triple checked before connecting. i also tried 3 different computers, an old pentium 3 and 2 (also old) amd computers. with all i have no luck (besides off course an unusable liteon drive). on all computers i get a serial bad reading.... it can't be my soldering skills, they are more then sufficient.... well, up to buy me a new xbox 360...
Post by: FalconLTD on July 19, 2009, 07:00:00 PM
Post by: yaywoop on July 20, 2009, 08:28:00 AM
honestly guys i gave up reading every post back at page 20 or so.
let me just say, if you assemble the circuit and follow the tutorial correctly, nothing should catch fire or smoke! I really can't figure out how you guys manage it.
@FalconLTD
with the problems of wires burning up.. you obviously have NOT assembled the circuit properly. if you look at the circuit diagram, there is a 1000 Ohm resistor between the 5v supply and the rest of the circuit. this resistor makes it physically impossible for the wires to burn like you describe, unless you accidentally connected it to 50,000V instead of 5V.. you must have somehow shorted out the resistor, and probably the transistor too.
google ohms law.
@dennisv9
these drives don't kill themselves. you either plugged it in upside down, or dropped something in it to short it out, or really screwed up the circuit and managed to apply 5v directly to the dvd drive. or maybe the gods are cracking down on piracy.
I might seem harsh in these comments but your problems are your own fault, not mine or anyone elses, you have made a stupid mistake somewhere. I do pity your loss of a console though.
for everyone else having problems, I have added a troubleshooting 'if it doesn't work' section to my tutorial over at http://xbox-experts....lashyourliteonf good luck
Post by: yaywoop on July 20, 2009, 04:05:00 PM
QUOTE(dennisv9 @ Jul 21 2009, 06:55 AM)
my drive is still recognized by the xbox and windows itself, but it will not eject the tray anymore. so i can put 1 game in, and play it till hell freezes over (since i cannot get it out).
the drive didn't short due to the circuitry, it was my own fault (i connected the cable correctly, but it shorted due to something else). resistors and transistors are fine...
"I might seem harsh in these comments but your problems are your own fault, not mine or anyone elses, you have made a stupid mistake somewhere. I do pity your loss of a console though."
any comment that is constructive is not a problem, so that is not a problem. well, i'll just buy another xbox. they sell for less than 30 dollars (20 euro) if you buy a broken one, so that is not a big problem. that is the price that one has to pay for fiddling with electronics, if you break it... well, than it is broke and then you (I) am the only one to blame.
but, i will not give up... i will rebuild the circuitry again and test it on the fried liteon drive untill it works... i have a spare dvd drive to test it on.....
if it still plays games, you should be able to dump the key. check the output of your circuit with a multimeter.
probe connected to ground, output = 5V
probe connected to 1.5V or 3.3V, output = 0V
if you don't get these readings check the pinout of the transistor or get a new one.
as for the eject issue, can you see where the smoke came from? if you can't repair it, you can buy a new drive off ebay, make sure its a liteon.
Post by: FalconLTD on July 21, 2009, 07:29:00 AM
1 question though. Am I suppose to be getting symbols in hyperterm continuously or just now and then? I was only getting symbols now and then when I touched the probe to the pc case. A symbol would pop up and then 30 seconds later another 2 and so on...
My newest circuit that I built is sure not to burn down.
Post by: yaywoop on July 21, 2009, 08:52:00 AM
you should get symbols sorta continuously while you are rubbing the probe.
As a 1000't post anniversary (lol just coincidence) This assembly guide I just whipped up might help some people if the original tute wasn't detailed enough. http://xbox-experts....ssemblingaliteo
Post by: Taken83oveR on July 22, 2009, 04:09:00 AM
Post by: fastcar on July 27, 2009, 01:35:00 AM
Question is,when im using the PC molex to power the adapter, where do i connect the ground cable of the adapter??im not sure of this since my PSU input of the PC is 220V and that of the xbox 360 is 110v
Thanx in advance
Post by: Takashi on July 27, 2009, 01:39:00 AM
Post by: Upas on July 27, 2009, 05:14:00 PM
Is there anything I can do to use the existing resistors I have?
Post by: fastcar on July 28, 2009, 12:35:00 AM
hi, im new to this forum and not so much experienced in circuit making at all,but i managed to put together the circuit by yaywoop that works with 4.5 v batteries
Question is,when im using the PC molex to power the adapter, where do i connect the ground cable of the adapter??im not sure of this since my PSU input of the PC is 220V and that of the xbox 360 is 110v
Thanx in advance
nvm,got it..
im moving on to my second adapter.Any problems if i use a C1815 transistor instead of a BC547?
Post by: dennisv9 on July 28, 2009, 06:52:00 AM
nvm,got it..
im moving on to my second adapter.Any problems if i use a C1815 transistor instead of a BC547?
can you let me know whether you can get it working with a c1815. i also tried with a c1815 transistor, and i couldn't get it to work. only bad serial in jungleflasher. so, if you build it, can you test it and let me (us) know. i am wondering whether the transistor gives a problem (or i am the problem not getting the key reader to work).
Post by: ydgmms on July 28, 2009, 01:31:00 PM
the GND on the emitter going to the DB9. is that necessary? Can it be a GND from the molex?
I plan on powering it from my PC. Getting the +5V from a molex adapter I had laying around. It also has the GND lead, would I be able to use that GND instead of the Pin5 on the serial port?
I ask because my PC doesn't have a serial port, but it does have a header. I do not have the approriate adapter. So I was planning on just trying to only have to connect Pin2 to the header with an alligator lead to the appropriate pin on your diagram
I also plan on powering the DVD drive from an xbox360, using an alligator clip to connect the PC case to 360 case.
Post by: yaywoop on July 28, 2009, 04:32:00 PM
Post by: fastcar on July 28, 2009, 11:51:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Jul 28 2009, 11:32 PM)
yes that should work. the ground on the serial port is internally connected to all other grounds on the pc, including the case metal.
what are the chances of frying either the console or the PC if i connect the both together with an alligator clip.im asking this cuz my PC and Xbox input voltages are different
Post by: yaywoop on July 29, 2009, 08:16:00 AM
what are the chances of frying either the console or the PC if i connect the both together with an alligator clip.im asking this cuz my PC and Xbox input voltages are different
very low.
the 360 is designed to have a floating 'ground' it is designed to be connected up to grounded TV's etc.
pc's are usually grounded. you shouldn't have a problem, the AC supply voltages shouldn't matter
Post by: fastcar on July 29, 2009, 01:55:00 PM
QUOTE(yaywoop @ Nov 29 2008, 07:03 PM)
All that is required for dumping a liteon key is a transistor and two resistors. which can both be found in old hardware. Computer monitors, VCR's, TV's and radio's are treasure troves of resistors capacitors and signal transistors.
So if you are handy with a soldering iron, why buy an xecuter kit or max232 board that you are only going to use once or twice?
for me at lest it was easier to make one than order online and wait.
The circuit is pretty simple, its a common emitter amplifier which inverts the signal and amplifies it to 5V.
its not strictly rs232 levels, but most serial ports probably won't mind. mine doesn't
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/sch-1.jpg)
Only the transmitting part is needed, the computer only receives the key over rs232, it doesn't transmit anything
So start off by finding an NPN transistor. practically any signal NPN will do.
hopefully the base collector and emitter will be marked on the pcb where you find the transistor (with B C E or something).
To desolder it heat two pins at a time with your soldering iron and wiggle it free, have some fresh solder on the iron to help melt the solder. try not to heat the transistor for too long, they are easily damaged by heat.
To test if the transistor is an npn, get a ohm meter (or battery resistor and led) put the positive lead on the base, if its an NPN you should get a reading when you put the negative lead on the collector and emitter.
if you don't know which pin is the base. just try each pin until the other two pins have a reading.
The 10K resistor will be marked brown black orange (gold)
The 1k resistor will be marked brown black red (gold)
You can always test with a multimeter after you desolder it if you are unsure.
Some desoldered components:
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/components.jpg)
Now put it together! I just did it freeform (without a PCB)
a serial plug could be salvaged from an old modem. or cut up a serial cable
You should have 3 wires (gnd, 5V and Tx) going to the dvd drive and two wires (gnd pin 5 and Rx pin 2) going to the serial port
it should look something like this (sorry about the blurry pic)
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/adapter.jpg)
Now you also need power to the drive. I made an adapter which plugs into a spare sata power plug, and has a switch to open/close the drive. but you can also just use the Xbox 360 to power it. but you can also just use the Xbox 360 to power it. you might need to disconnect pin 3 (eject) to get the tray to stay partially open (Pinout link the ? pin on that page is 3.3V)
overall my setup looks like this:
(IMG:http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/overall.jpg)
I got the dvd power plug from a printer (cut down to fit) and made the SATA power adapter from a piece of PCB filed down to fit and with tracks cut for 12v, 5v, gnd and 3.3v. careful if you don't do it right it could damage your computer power supply or dvd drive.
To get it working I used the dos version of dvdkey, but anything else would probably work.
1 eject the drive and push the tray in half way. leave pin 9 open so the tray doesn't close
2 plug in power and sata
3 turn pc on and boot into dos
4 run dosflash to get the sata address of the dvd drive (say no to any prompts and ctrl+c when you have the address)
5 plug in the serial to the drive and pc. then run: dvdkey address
Hopefully that will work. If it doesn't, check your connections, reboot and try again. you can also try unplugging sata until dos has booted.
You can try probing your circuit with a multimeter, disconnect from pc and dvd power the circuit with 5v, the output should be 5V when the input Tx is pulled low, and 0V when the input Tx is 3V.
Now all you have to do is get another drive and spoof it to replace the liteon.
Of course you can also buy all the parts mentioned, but that would ruin the fun of being able to hack the latest and greatest versions of the 360 absolutely free.
Enjoy.
@ yaywoop,u said that any types of transistors can be used to make the adapter.Recently i made one using the C1815 transistor,but all im getting is bad serial at jungleflasher.Is it due to the b,c,e points being soldered at the wrong places or sumthing else????
Post by: daniel_hua on July 29, 2009, 09:34:00 PM
Does the tool you made yourself can only read out key from Liteon? Can you use it to flash the firmware with it? I've read another topic(http://xbox-experts....lashyourliteonf) written by you described how to with this tool to read out the key and then flash the firmware. What confused me is you only connect the TX line from the dvd driver to the serial port RX of PC. So how could it be possible to flash the firmware with this connection? The only possible reason is that it got flashed via the sata cable. If it is true, then this tool is not necessary for flashing the firmware, correct?
Thanks~
Post by: dennisv9 on July 30, 2009, 02:14:00 AM
@ yaywoop,u said that any types of transistors can be used to make the adapter.Recently i made one using the C1815 transistor,but all im getting is bad serial at jungleflasher.Is it due to the b,c,e points being soldered at the wrong places or sumthing else????
c1815 does not work... i've also tried it, rebuild it about 3 times. c1815 just does not work.
Hi Yaywoop, This is a great post to teach a newbie like me to hack the xbox360. And I have some questions to ask before I kick off the steps.
Does the tool you made yourself can only read out key from Liteon? Can you use it to flash the firmware with it? I've read another topic(http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=flashyourliteonf) written by you described how to with this tool to read out the key and then flash the firmware. What confused me is you only connect the TX line from the dvd driver to the serial port RX of PC. So how could it be possible to flash the firmware with this connection? The only possible reason is that it got flashed via the sata cable. If it is true, then this tool is not necessary for flashing the firmware, correct?
Thanks~
the key reader is only needed to, obviously, read your dvd key. it is not needed to flash your liteon drive.
Post by: fastcar on July 30, 2009, 01:17:00 PM
c1815 does not work... i've also tried it, rebuild it about 3 times. c1815 just does not work.
the key reader is only needed to, obviously, read your dvd key. it is not needed to flash your liteon drive.
will a 2N2222 or C331 work?or do i have to use the BC547
Post by: dennisv9 on July 30, 2009, 02:54:00 PM
will a 2N2222 or C331 work?or do i have to use the BC547
i didn't try those, i tried 4 different types of transistors (also c1815). none of the circuits worked. the transistors itself worked fine, i tested them all after i soldered them off the circuit. i then bought a bc5xx transistor, and that worked immediately. so just give your transistors a try... or just buy a bc5xx transistor and save yourself the trouble of finding out that the transistors do not work (and you have to solder them off)
Post by: yaywoop on July 30, 2009, 10:31:00 PM
will a 2N2222 or C331 work?or do i have to use the BC547
any NPN signal transistor will work. you need to make sure you have the pinout correct. polarity does matter with transistors!
the 2n2222 is one of the transistors listed in the tutorial.
if you read the tutorial you would know this
Post by: fastcar on August 07, 2009, 01:25:00 AM
btw if im powering the DVD drive from the xbox,where do i connect the ground of the DB9 port.and is the PC and 360 ground connection wif a cable required when im doingthis?
Post by: facex13 on August 11, 2009, 03:43:00 PM
Post by: spy007zz on October 07, 2009, 07:24:00 PM
If I remove pin 3 and manually touch the wire to the dvd case, does it mean I am grounding the wire and should cause the DVD drive to open and close?
Post by: ach on November 09, 2009, 10:27:00 AM
QUOTE(jeremydammit @ Dec 15 2008, 06:09 AM)
hello
how do I turn off the power please
thank you
Post by: roboguy on November 23, 2009, 06:16:00 PM
schematic
board
render
it worked fine for me, i used a usb cable for the 5v
Post by: rudedog209 on November 23, 2009, 07:03:00 PM
Post by: roboguy on November 23, 2009, 07:28:00 PM
Post by: dbizz on September 30, 2010, 12:40:00 PM
Tooling around with hyperterminal I eventually figured out that (with my particular serial port) I would register inputs when brushing my probe against a 5V source, but not from a 3.3 V source. With my multimeter a 5V probe would register as ~0.2V on the serial input, but a 3.3 V source would register as 1V which was not low enough.
The solution - I justed added a second NPN, creating a 'Darlington Switch' using the same resistor values. That dropped the serial low enough to trigger on the 3.3 V input. I've attached the schematic for anyone interested but all you need is an additional NPN and it solders easily on the back of the D-Sub connector.
(IMG:http://www.softwareforeducation.com/electronics/notes/AS/WorkSheets/bipolar-darlington.gif)
Post by: frit0pie on March 19, 2011, 07:41:00 AM
Another thing i have made 3 of these devices and tested it on 3 different computers all rendering the same result, so im sure its not the transistors or at least i think its not. The correct com port is selected and just for safe measure i tried com2 as well.
My questions are what am i doing wrong?
From the pics i attached is there any flaws in my design.
Is usb not a good source of power should i go with molex?
Is there any other checks i can do with multimeter if so what checks are left to do and what should be the out puts?
Thanx in advance.
(IMG:http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/4451/liteonprobe2.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/503/liteonprobe3.th.gif)
This post has been edited by frit0pie: Mar 19 2011, 02:44 PM
Post by: Buzzcut on March 19, 2011, 11:11:00 AM
Here's mine.
The pin is connected to the GND wire and the push-to-break switch cuts the 3.3v.
This post has been edited by Buzzcut: Mar 19 2011, 06:16 PM
Post by: frit0pie on March 20, 2011, 07:42:00 AM
QUOTE(Buzzcut @ Mar 19 2011, 06:11 PM)
Forget that method, it's now outdated. Search for "PMT Probe" to see the latest way, it uses a probe made up of one needle, a switch and works on all Liteons, stock or flashed.
Here's mine.
The pin is connected to the GND wire and the push-to-break switch cuts the 3.3v.
Thanks for the reply been researching it. Yours is so simple i seen others with 2.5v capacitor is there not a need for the capacitor? also just to be on the safe side this works with liteon 74850c correct?
Post by: Buzzcut on March 20, 2011, 10:26:00 AM