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Good news. Geremia has released a tool that can read the firmware key from LiteOn drives.
This will allow you to grab the key and then insert it into another drive, giving Lite-On owners a way of hacking the system.
The Lite-On drive does NOT have a writable ROM therefore the drives themselves are not hackable.
Geremia's Lite-On drive toolkit is avalible in the usual places.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DVD key grabber for Benq and Lite-on
It receives DVDkey from drive serial port and save to file, you need a LVTTL-RS232 converter (max3232) between COM1 (embedded COM1 on motherboard, 0x3F8 IRQ4) and TX RX pins on drive power cable (for liteon the trace to powercable are cut, need a little soldering).
It also saves identify.bin and inquiry.bin, for the spoof lovers.
This "unlocks" also Benq to accept MTK vendor ATA cmds (dosflash etc...), not for liteon
You must power on PC without sata cable connected to drive.
You must poweron the drive with tray half opened and eject switch in open state.
You must power off an on again the drive each time you run the app.
For rs232 troubleshuting, consider that Liteon by default outputs an endless stream of 0x00 and 0x01 at 115200 8N1, you should see it with Realterm with display set to hex
As always, us at your own risk
Thanks and respect to Tiros, Schtrom, TMF, Redline99, c4eva
Geremia
P.S. If you have been follwing the Lite-On thread this was reported this morning but I believed it deserved its own post.
This post has been edited by Havok: Aug 25 2008, 01:59 AM
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Before everyone starts whooping ove this please be aware you need to be reasnobly tech-savvy to do this. It involves cutting traces, soldering, and use of a specialised com port serial piece of equipment. Certainly not for the noobesque.
T
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QUOTE(tezza192 @ Aug 25 2008, 01:51 AM)

Before everyone starts whooping ove this please be aware you need to be reasnobly tech-savvy to do this. It involves cutting traces, soldering, and use of a specialised com port serial piece of equipment. Certainly not for the noobesque.
T
I already ordered the part and looking forward to working with these drives.
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QUOTE(tezza192 @ Aug 24 2008, 08:51 PM)

Before everyone starts whooping ove this please be aware you need to be reasnobly tech-savvy to do this. It involves cutting traces, soldering, and use of a specialised com port serial piece of equipment. Certainly not for the noobesque.
T
Hmmm...no it doesn't.
(IMG:http://www.freepler.de/userdaten/38928917/bilder/forum/dg-16d2s_uart.jpg)
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Great news, but what about the spoof string?
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QUOTE(BoNg420 @ Aug 25 2008, 02:20 AM)

Great news, but what about the spoof string?
I believe this gets the spoof data as well.
By the way anyone looking to buy the device needed for this can get one here.
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I have already done this and can confirm it works... I used my 79 I used to develop the 79Unlock...
You will have to spoof manually.. this is not for the noob again.. You will get E66 if you don't..
Each inquiry string is unique as it contains the drive serial number....
If you plan on spoofing a Hitachi, note.. FWTB won't recognise the drive for flashing once it's spoofed correctly....
This post has been edited by podger: Aug 25 2008, 03:00 AM
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QUOTE(podger @ Aug 25 2008, 02:59 AM)

I have already done this and can confirm it works... I used my 79 I used to develop the 79Unlock...
You will have to spoof manually.. this is not for the noob again.. You will get E66 if you don't..
Each inquiry string is unique as it contains the drive serial number....
If you plan on spoofing a Hitachi, note.. FWTB won't recognise the drive for flashing once it's spoofed correctly....
Can you confirm that the tool I bought HERE will do what is needed?
And I guess that means going back to the old hex editor days until an updated Toolbox comes out.
At least it is a start. Thanks to you with your 79 unlock and now this the scene is looking up again.
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Ranger, yes that should do the trick... only need the first 4 pins.... 5 and 6 are not necessary... I'd connect it to 3.3v also... part is rate 3.0 -> 5.5
Can't see a new toolbox anytime soon...... Also, spoof string is unique... fwtb just looks up a list
Firmtools might be a better way.... Hopefully Caster420 is working on it now..... maybe use the inquiry.bin that Geremia gives us... that would certainly simplify things...
I made my on cable as I have the parts from a Dell Axim to Garmin I made a few years ago..... Threw one together for OggyUk also..
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Thanks for that info podger.
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so you have to switch the lite-on with another drive to work?
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QUOTE(acoustic992 @ Aug 24 2008, 11:40 PM)

so you have to switch the lite-on with another drive to work?
As of right now yes. Further it has been said the lite-on is not writeable so if thats true the value of old x360 drives just went way up. I am glad i have a few here now!
I just ordered my adapter thing. Hope i got the correct one. The guy has a few more if any one else wants to order one. Check it out here > EBAY ITEM -MAX3232 - RS232 to TTL module / converter AVR PIC ARM
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Aug 25 2008, 04:58 AM)

As of right now yes. Further it has been said the lite-on is not writeable so if thats true the value of old x360 drives just went way up. I am glad i have a few here now!
I just ordered my adapter thing. Hope i got the correct one. The guy has a few more if any one else wants to order one. Check it out here >
EBAY ITEM -MAX3232 - RS232 to TTL module / converter AVR PIC ARM
I wonder what will happen to all the removed lite-on drives? Wouldnt be worth much since it could only be paired with "your" motherboard. Does anyone know if the lasers in the lite-on are the same as benq or can be used with hitachi or samsung?
I ordered my adapter before they go up in price like the dang drives. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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as said earlier u need to have a fair good knowledge on how to soldier and looks like u also need a steady hand way i see it is since its new this is just a start so wait it out till a more easy way happens unless u plan to spoof because u cannot wait but this looks like a easy brick to the system imo
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QUOTE(darkshadow2k8 @ Aug 25 2008, 07:23 AM)

as said earlier u need to have a fair good knowledge on how to soldier and looks like u also need a steady hand way i see it is since its new this is just a start so wait it out till a more easy way happens unless u plan to spoof because u cannot wait but this looks like a easy brick to the system imo
What your saying is understandable, however, I don't think this will end up being a software flash/dump similiar to what happened with the Hitachi 79. My reason to believe it will always need to be soldered is because that interface is neccessary to give it the pinouts it needs (rx, tx) and that I dont see ever changing (ie. dumping straight through the sata port without any kind of soldering)
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QUOTE(ProphetOfPain @ Aug 25 2008, 02:47 AM)

What your saying is understandable, however, I don't think this will end up being a software flash/dump similiar to what happened with the Hitachi 79. My reason to believe it will always need to be soldered is because that interface is neccessary to give it the pinouts it needs (rx, tx) and that I dont see ever changing (ie. dumping straight through the sata port without any kind of soldering)
well that part we dont know for sure i can remember only the soldier way for the 79 drive now its soft mod while this drive may not be the case there may still be a easy way such as a mod chip for it like the 79 but who knows maybe a stright flash may happen in good time may be awhile but could still be possible imo i say since its still new i cant say because things change in good time as with everything else
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confirmed working.
I just dumped my lite-on.
Now I need a good tut on spoofing another drive to show up as the lite on I dumped.
For anyone wanting a LVTTL-RS232 converter I ordered mine here 3 weeks ago for a NSLU2 project. Turns out I found a better use
$20 + $4 shipping.
http://www.compsys1....33_adapter.html
Make sure you order the 3v version
Item # A232DBH3v.
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QUOTE(podger @ Aug 25 2008, 03:59 AM)

I have already done this and can confirm it works... I used my 79 I used to develop the 79Unlock...
You will have to spoof manually.. this is not for the noob again.. You will get E66 if you don't..
Each inquiry string is unique as it contains the drive serial number....
If you plan on spoofing a Hitachi, note.. FWTB won't recognise the drive for flashing once it's spoofed correctly....
Hi,
Can you explain please how to spoof manually the firmware ? (I have a MS28 drive ready to works ^^)
Can we do this with Toolbox (with the Inquiry.bin and Identify.bin) or does it need hexadecimal editor ?
Anyway, I am sure that with explanations, this is not so hard ^^
Thanks in advance !
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It needs hex edited, tooblox doesnt support LiteOns, probably never will.
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Hi there!
Possible to use this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Converter-Cable-Max3232-inside_W0QQitemZ150267133705QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
or this one with USB?
http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-to-RS232-Module-Based-TTL-PC-FTDI-FT232BM-BL-chip_W0QQitemZ200248809401QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200248809401&_trkparms=39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A15|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
If not any could anyone find the cheapest avaible working? i live in norway.. Thank you for your time.
Greetings
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Will Firmware toolbox ever use Liteons?
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QUOTE(John711 @ Aug 25 2008, 09:25 AM)

Will Firmware toolbox ever use Liteons?
Prob not, maximus is probably pissed he cant rip off people with those POS passkeys. Im sure someone will probably have something out to do it for you in a few weeks.
QUOTE(Tidyboy89 @ Aug 25 2008, 07:50 AM)

Hi there!
Possible to use this one?
Link to ebay itemor this one with USB?
Ebay link again.. this with USBIf not any could anyone find the cheapest avaible working? i live in norway.. Thank you for your time.
Greetings
I dont think you could use USB, since this has to be done in DOS, it prob wont be seen.
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Please can someone do a quick and simple tutorial
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QUOTE(jc123rules @ Aug 25 2008, 04:27 PM)

Please can someone do a quick and simple tutorial
i could! just waiting for my hardware to arrive.. it will take some days.. got plenty of time to do it.. but i assume you guys are very needy for it right now.. someone?
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Id love to get an ebay link to the right adapter to buy ><
tyvm!
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This is the right one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150267133705
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Seems the "usual places" is down. Anywhere else to get hold of the toolkit?
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QUOTE(Maik315 @ Aug 25 2008, 05:42 PM)

This is the right one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150267133705
This one will work to right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=260279139067
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Yes. I Got my 360 up and running with a Samsung spoofed as Lite-on
For anyone wanting a LVTTL-RS232 converter I ordered mine here 3 weeks ago for a NSLU2 project. Turns out I found a better use smile.gif
$20 + $4 shipping.
http://www.compsys1....33_adapter.html
Thats the one I used.
total $24 shipped.
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thank you, adapter is ordered, i think this guy will be busy making these

can you tell us how you spoofed the samsung drive so it works on a liteon 360?
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Gonna wait for a better way do do these drives, Ive done all the XBOX360 drives b4 nps, but this is gonna take even Longer....
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Don't see why you're waiting. The soldering is no more difficult than a passkey.
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gg hackers
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We need a good tutorial first.
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ppl look here
it can be use?
http://www.shema.org...w...cle&sid=644
http://jenius3000.na...ble/datacab.jpg
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I bought this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=310077611824
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Can I use a MAX232 instead of a MAX3232?
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/max3232e.pdf
Texas Instruments does free samples with the 232 and the 3232, but only 232 comes in PDIP, which is easier to solder as compared to SOIC or whatever the other packages were.
This post has been edited by ILikeMeat: Aug 25 2008, 10:06 PM
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This new thing with spoofing the liteon drive, do you need to solder anything on the mainboard, or is it like in the same kinda way of flashing?
br
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QUOTE(kingroach @ Aug 26 2008, 05:08 AM)

does this one have 3 volts?
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QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Aug 25 2008, 04:05 PM)

Can I use a MAX232 instead of a MAX3232?
Texas Instruments does free samples with the 232 and the 3232, but only 232 comes in PDIP, which is easier to solder as compared to SOIC or whatever the other packages were.
Check maxim-ic dot com, see what they have for samples, I prefer Maxim over TI myself.
EDIT: I just looked and it looks like they have pdip max3232 samples at maxim-ic dot com
This post has been edited by Xtreme69: Aug 26 2008, 01:57 AM
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QUOTE(Xtreme69 @ Aug 25 2008, 08:55 PM)

Check maxim-ic dot com, see what they have for samples, I prefer Maxim over TI myself.
EDIT: I just looked and it looks like they have pdip max3232 samples at maxim-ic dot com
Yea I did the same, submitted my request for sample. Thanks for the tip, (although I didn't use it 
Now if I could find some website to get me 5 0.1uf caps in samples...I would be set...proving harder than it seems...
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QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Aug 25 2008, 09:35 PM)

Yea I did the same, submitted my request for sample. Thanks for the tip, (although I didn't use it

Now if I could find some website to get me 5 0.1uf caps in samples...I would be set...proving harder than it seems...
As far as 232 based chips go, the cap requirement is pretty wide, I have built a number of device with MAX232 chips in them and the work fine anywhere from .1 to 1µF, just keep them all the same value and all should go well. If you in the US, Radio Shack should have 1µF caps that will work, I know there won't be free samples but they should be readily available.
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QUOTE(foaley77 @ Aug 26 2008, 12:39 AM)

does this one have 3 volts?
I am not sure.. I will see when I get it. but look slike its the same thing bunch of other seller are selling and claiming to be 3.3V compatable..
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QUOTE
We need a good tutorial first.
I feel that if you aren't going to attempt it with what has been given you, you have no business saying anything. Except maybe "thanks guys!" There have been tutorials, but they are not beginner level stuff. If you can't comprehend whats been said, learn more.
These guys are not super geniuses by any means. They are good at what they do, and have probably spent a lot of time to get there. It is not their responsibility to make everything so completely spoon fed like everyone keeps asking. Come on now. There was just a breakthrough on the "uncrackable" dvdrom.
To the original poster, I'm not singling you out, just the comment seems so much more prevalent lately in this and a lot of the other forums. I sincerely believe that too many people just expect others to tirelessly pursue goals, so that they can step in and use their hard work.
Sorry for another non-technical post, but its getting ridiculous.
t
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I have ordered the necessary hardware off Ebay, but in the meantime, a quick question about the power status of the drive, more specificaly the tray half open. Would I be right in assuming that you press eject on the 360 and as the tray starts to open, you shut the power off at the mains, then reconnect the mains and at the appropriate time, power on the 360 with the eject button ? Or is powering the drive for key extraction with the 360 itself no longer an option ?
Also, R707 and R708 state "reconnect both solder points". Are these resistors unpopulated in an untouched drive, or do they require removing and reconnecting afterwards ?
This post has been edited by Tron[ADS]: Aug 26 2008, 08:09 AM
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QUOTE(thr4773r @ Aug 26 2008, 04:57 AM)

I feel that if you aren't going to attempt it with what has been given you, you have no business saying anything. Except maybe "thanks guys!" There have been tutorials, but they are not beginner level stuff. If you can't comprehend whats been said, learn more.
These guys are not super geniuses by any means. They are good at what they do, and have probably spent a lot of time to get there. It is not their responsibility to make everything so completely spoon fed like everyone keeps asking. Come on now. There was just a breakthrough on the "uncrackable" dvdrom.
To the original poster, I'm not singling you out, just the comment seems so much more prevalent lately in this and a lot of the other forums. I sincerely believe that too many people just expect others to tirelessly pursue goals, so that they can step in and use their hard work.
Sorry for another non-technical post, but its getting ridiculous.
t
Why attempt it when the pros haven't got it perfected yet? Im sure a lot of people don't want a useless system. I can handle this with my eyes closed, I solder for a living. I was just telling people to wait until this has been worked out 100% and a good tutorial is available. Oh yeah, Thanks guys for all the hard work and time put into this project.
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QUOTE(kingroach @ Aug 25 2008, 08:38 PM)

will that work ? its a max 232 not max3232
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QUOTE(swampy1111 @ Aug 26 2008, 02:50 PM)

will that work ? its a max 232 not max3232
There seems to be quite a bit of confusion about the max232's. The 3232 shown on the diagram works the same as a 232 but the 232 will operate with 5v aswell as 3v. The 232 and 3232 are common place with modem hackers and are used to read/write the flash chips in them...the flash chips are 3v the same as the ones in the lite-on, so they will work just fine.
They can be built for less than £10 and a trip to a maplins store to get the parts, only very basic soldering skills are needed to build one!
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Why hasn't this been posted to the front news page yet? Maybe they think if they don't put it on the front page of the Xbox-Scene, M$ won't see it and won't start developing a new drive.. hehe...
Oh! And to the guy a few above who went off on someone asking for a tutorial.. I know you made a generalized statement, but it was a little bit harsh.. I ordered my Max3232 and i'm good with soldering, but still yet I wouldn't mind reading something and re-reading to make sure I got everything right so I didn't ruin my system. The threads get so clogged up and information/proggies change daily sometimes on new hacks and it's beneficial to wait a few days to see what is what or AN OFFICIAL TUTORIAL.
This is a good hack for begginners I think! Build your own max and cable and run a dos program.. WOW.. not excactly rocket science.
Oh, and if we had a tutorial maybe people would read it and be able to order their own Max3232 without posting hundreds of links to ebay auctions.. that's what this thread is going to overfill with it seems, unfortunately.
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QUOTE(fastflow @ Aug 26 2008, 02:58 PM)

There seems to be quite a bit of confusion about the max232's. The 3232 shown on the diagram works the same as a 232 but the 232 will operate with 5v aswell as 3v. The 232 and 3232 are common place with modem hackers and are used to read/write the flash chips in them...the flash chips are 3v the same as the ones in the lite-on, so they will work just fine.
They can be built for less than £10 and a trip to a maplins store to get the parts, only very basic soldering skills are needed to build one!
thanx for clearing that one up
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QUOTE(swampy1111 @ Aug 26 2008, 03:16 PM)

thanx for clearing that one up
No probs, glad to be of help on first day as a member!
I have a parts list and diagram for building the max232 if anyone needs it
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nobody answer
can i use data cabel from Siemens S25/C35/S35 ??
http://jenius3000.na...ble/datacab.jpg
http://www.shema.org...w...cle&sid=644
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QUOTE(fastflow @ Aug 26 2008, 02:19 PM)

No probs, glad to be of help on first day as a member!
I have a parts list and diagram for building the max232 if anyone needs it
yes please
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QUOTE(fastflow @ Aug 26 2008, 03:19 PM)

No probs, glad to be of help on first day as a member!
I have a parts list and diagram for building the max232 if anyone needs it
Yes please, would appreciate this also.
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Anyone needing the above (max232 stuff) pm me with with email or messenger details as i cant upload it to the forum
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You're better making a max233 as you don't need to use capacitors as they are already in the ic:

All you need is
1- max233a ic
2- db9 female connector
3- some wire
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Can i use this adapter?
http://cgi.ebay.com/...id=p3286.c0.m14
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This is great! Of course, im not that excellent at soldering yet, so I don't know if i'll attempt this or not.
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For those wanting a tutorial this is the best I can find so far, it covers everything.
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fgueux-forum.net%2Findex.php%3Fshowtopic%3D195833%26hl%3D&hl=en&ie=UTF8&sl=fr&tl=en
Beware this tutorial is translated from the original french.
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Aug 27 2008, 04:32 AM)

I don't think so, I thought it had to a be a RS3232, I don't really know though.
QUOTE(Chimp5000 @ Aug 27 2008, 05:02 AM)

This is great! Of course, im not that excellent at soldering yet, so I don't know if i'll attempt this or not.
Really? You don't have to be good at soldering to do this. Or so it seems, I am going to tackle it, don't have the parts or drive in front of me but I will soon and I am sure I can do it. Or maybe I just consider "good" RDC skill so not being that good, you still have skill. Maybe you stink, I don't know.
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that adapter will work fine, you can either use the MAX232 or MAX3232 chips or any equivalent TTL converter. only difference between MAX232 and MAX3232 is the 3232 was made to work at 3.3v although the 232 will do the same it was designed to work at 5v
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QUOTE(xboxer360 @ Aug 28 2008, 04:23 AM)

that adapter will work fine, you can either use the MAX232 or MAX3232 chips or any equivalent TTL converter. only difference between MAX232 and MAX3232 is the 3232 was made to work at 3.3v although the 232 will do the same it was designed to work at 5v
Do I solder 3.3v wire to v5 shown on the image?
(IMG:http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/6/5/7/6/6/3/webimg/106146524_o.jpg)
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Aug 28 2008, 07:27 AM)

Do I solder 3.3v wire to v5 shown on the image?

Yes
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QUOTE(Tidyboy89 @ Aug 28 2008, 09:49 AM)

Yes
How do I connect this adapter to my pc?
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Can you use the connectivity kit version 1 for this?
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Aug 28 2008, 09:30 AM)

How do I connect this adapter to my pc?
Serial port.
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Can someone clarify the following for me?
1-"You must power on PC without sata cable connected to drive."
So therefore boot LiteOn Drive in the xbox360 with both the SATA and other Connector attached to it?
2-"You must poweron the drive with tray half opened and eject switch in open state."
How exatcly do I power-on the drive so the tray is half way opened and the eject switch is in open state?
3-Can this be done under windows, or will I have to create a bootable so I'm in pure DOS mode?
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QUOTE(darkrain @ Aug 27 2008, 09:08 AM)

For those wanting a tutorial this is the best I can find so far, it covers everything.
Liteon TutorialBeware this tutorial is translated from the original french.
Awesome! Thanks a lot!
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can anybody tell me which pins need connecting from 360 board to drive to dump the firmware?
im building a rs233 with spare drive connector to save soldering wires onto drive.
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Here is a link to an English tutorial.
NOT TRANSLATED
http://www.turbouplo...SpoofLiteOn.pdf
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Is there a tutorial without using the connectivity kit?
It says to open the drawer halfway with a paperclip, but when i turn my 360 on the drive closes itself again. When i open it halfway with a paperclip when the power is on the drive knows i eject it and so it wont work.
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Can anyone confirm for me that if i solder 2 bits of kynar wire from the bottom 2 solder points on the liteon board, then solder the correct wire to TX and one to RX on the board that it will do the same job as re-soldering the 2 contact points. Im a bit heavy handed and those solder points are a bit on the small side for me....
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QUOTE(dazv6 @ Aug 31 2008, 03:07 AM)

Can anyone confirm for me that if i solder 2 bits of kynar wire from the bottom 2 solder points on the liteon board, then solder the correct wire to TX and one to RX on the board that it will do the same job as re-soldering the 2 contact points. Im a bit heavy handed and those solder points are a bit on the small side for me....
Get a connectivity kit and you wont' have to do any soldering.
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Aug 31 2008, 02:15 AM)

Get a connectivity kit and you wont' have to do any soldering.
I think you are missing what im saying. the 2 points on the liteon board that need to be re-soldered are the problem for my heavy handed soldering, those 2 are re-soldered for the rx and tx to operate, if i solder some wire from the positive of both points directly to the rx and tx points, will that do the same job as resoldering the 2 points. Then just solder the vcc, tx, rx, gnd to the board ready for reading.
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Yes. You can solder the TX and RX to the 2 small solder points, or you can reconnect the 2 solder points and use the 2 bigger solder points under the power connector.
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QUOTE(xboxmoddude @ Aug 29 2008, 04:38 PM)

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Aug 31 2008, 05:07 AM)

Yes. You can solder the TX and RX to the 2 small solder points, or you can reconnect the 2 solder points and use the 2 bigger solder points under the power connector.
Cheers buddy, thats what i was thinking, its less work for the same result..
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QUOTE(dazv6 @ Aug 31 2008, 04:15 PM)

Cheers buddy, thats what i was thinking, its less work for the same result..
Would you mind explaining this to me? I've ordered an Xecuter connectivity kit but I still don't get where I'm supposed to solder the two extra cables 'cause of that crummy tut. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Aug 31 2008, 06:11 PM)

Would you mind explaining this to me? I've ordered an Xecuter connectivity kit but I still don't get where I'm supposed to solder the two extra cables 'cause of that crummy tut.

If you look at the pic of the liteon board you will see 4 points to solder your cable to, vcc, tx, rx, gnd, and 2 solder points below those to reconnect. Now, instead of reconnecting the 2 bottom solder points just solder the tx to the bottom right point and the rx to the bottom left solder point and the vcc and ground to the normal points. This cuts down on a bit of work and should give the same result, the 2 bottom points that you reconnect go directly to the tx and rx main solder points on the board. Then just use the connectivity kit to power the drive as normal. There is no need to solder the extra wires from the max3232 to the connectivity kit.
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QUOTE(dazv6 @ Aug 31 2008, 06:23 PM)

If you look at the pic of the liteon board you will see 4 points to solder your cable to, vcc, tx, rx, gnd, and 2 solder points below those to reconnect. Now, instead of reconnecting the 2 bottom solder points just solder the tx to the bottom right point and the rx to the bottom left solder point and the vcc and ground to the normal points. This cuts down on a bit of work and should give the same result, the 2 bottom points that you reconnect go directly to the tx and rx main solder points on the board. Then just use the connectivity kit to power the drive as normal. There is no need to solder the extra wires from the max3232 to the connectivity kit.
I would strongly advise against this approach... It's very likely if you are not careful that you will rip the pads off the pcb and mostly likely decap the via.... These pads are absolutely tiny, even soldering to them could be enough to remove them
Be warned...
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Thanks podger (and thanks for making me $200 so far on v79 mods
).
I'm just gonna use conductive paint on the two pads. What I'm wondering is if I can solder a solution using that MAX3232 thing and a Xecuter connectivity kit, since the 4 "big" solder pads just seem to connect to the connectivity kit in the first place.
Can't I just solder the MAX3232 thing to the connectivity kit?
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Aug 31 2008, 08:53 PM)

Can't I just solder the MAX3232 thing to the connectivity kit?
http://translate.goo...t...sl=fr&tl=en
According to this, yes you can.
Not tried it myself yet.
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Yeah, I Finally got what Google translator tried to tell me. Since the wires in the Xecuter connectivity kits are the same ones that you're supposed to solder on the actual Lite-on board you can just solder them to the Xecuter kit instead of to the board. Saves time in the future if you're a modder like me too.
The two 'gaps' on the board still have to be soldered though, but I'm gonna use conductive paint. It's a little expensive, but apparently it comes right off with q-tip after the job is done. In other words, only 4 solderings needed.
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QUOTE(podger @ Aug 31 2008, 08:32 PM)

I would strongly advise against this approach... It's very likely if you are not careful that you will rip the pads off the pcb and mostly likely decap the via.... These pads are absolutely tiny, even soldering to them could be enough to remove them
Be warned...
Cheers podger, i think i will go with the conductive paint that ree1981 mentioned for the 2 points that need reconnecting, no chance of lifting the pads that way.
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.....D'oh. I don't even have a com/serial port on my computer. Another thing to get I guess. ^^;
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QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Aug 25 2008, 01:01 AM)

Hmmm...no it doesn't.

Hi Guys...
I have one little question.
If i look into manual there is one problem. There is wrote:
Cable RS232 --------------> Connectivity Kit
Gnd ===================> 1 Gnd ===================> 1
V+ ====================> 10 V + ====================> 10
but on the picture the arrow not showing to the point 10 but show to the point 8!!!
And if i look to the picture with DVDrom PCB there is same problem... 3V show to the
point 8....
What is right???
I have only one describtion of this problem:
1) Nomally pins signings:
1 3 5 7 9 11
2 4 6 8 10 12
2) if i counting right on the picture are pins signed:
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12
Its my opinion right? The pins 8 and 10 is same or in the picture is mistake???
its only my question, because i dont wont burning my x360 drive and RS232 
Thanks for answers 
VoDa
P.S. I apologize for my terrible english
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Can someone please tell me if connectivity kit version 1 will work?
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VoDa> The pic points to the right pin, but writes the wrong number. The right number is 8 as you said.
xlinkx> It will, but only as a power supplier. You can't use the buttons on it, so you have to manually eject the drive half-way before plugging the v1 kit in... in other words, useless.
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Sep 2 2008, 12:00 AM)

VoDa> The pic points to the right pin, but writes the wrong number. The right number is 8 as you said.
xlinkx> It will, but only as a power supplier. You can't use the buttons on it, so you have to manually eject the drive half-way before plugging the v1 kit in... in other words, useless.

Why cant you use the eject button then power off then push in the drive half way
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Just repeating what I read. I have no experience with it.
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Sep 2 2008, 03:10 AM)

Why cant you use the eject button then power off then push in the drive half way
Because, its the simple fact that the xbox's last known stage should be closed, not open.
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hi to all, i am new in the forum and i am form argentina, i want to thank u this forum is amazing. now i have a question, the lite on key will work fine in a Samsung MS-25 in fact is this one.
http://articulo.merc...ra-xbox-360-_JM
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QUOTE(KondorX @ Sep 2 2008, 07:53 AM)

hi to all, i am new in the forum and i am form argentina, i want to thank u this forum is amazing. now i have a question, the lite on key will work fine in a Samsung MS-25 in fact is this one.
http://articulo.merc...ra-xbox-360-_JM
Yes, but they say it's not Live-safe, so beware.
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Sep 2 2008, 03:39 PM)

Yes, but they say it's not Live-safe, so beware.
so i cant play online?
this method is to take out de dvdkey?
after the mod can i use the lite-on in normal way (to play originals games) or it will detected too?
thaks
PS: sorry for the bad english, iam making a huge effort
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All it means is, there is an obvious route of detection should MS persue it.
You can still use live, as always you run the risk of being banned.
Yes you can put the lite-on in and use that for games online.
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as far as we know if it the same as spoofing any other drive. and safer if you use the spoof data you pull from your Lite-On Drive to flash to your new Samsung drive. I would say your fine.
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it's not. c4eva said that apparently the liteon uses its unique ID string in the SS generation somehow, which will obviously be missing in other drives.
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Hello to all.
I have a few questions for you experts.
1) If you make something wrong to the construction of the RS232 to TTL converter, when you start the procedure of dumping the key can you damage the drive?
2) As i read you can construct the RS232 to TTL converter by using the MAX232 chip. As i checked the datasheets of MAX3232 and MAX232, it seems that the do the same job with the difference that the MAX232 requires 5v in order to operate whereas MAX3232 can work either by 3.3 or 5.
My question is:
If i supply the MAX232 with 5V from the PSU of my PC and not with the 3.3 of the XBOX360 controller, is their any chance to damage the drive?
3) I built an RS232 to TTL converter based on ST3232 chip. I did not manage to dump the key although i followed the guide (WITH NO CONNECTIVITY KIT) step by step. The error i was accepting from DVDKEY was the following:
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey 9000
Port 9000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
It didn't work, sorry reg1: 54
DVD key:
00000000000000000000000000000000
Seems NOT a good DVD Key!!! 00 00
KEY.BIN saved
I am sure that the COM communication is ok as i tested my RS232 adapter by looping the tx and rx cables to the hyper terminal. Also my port has the right setting (3F8/IRQ4).
I tried several times with a lot of different variants of the dumping procedure with no result i was taking the same error all the time.
After testing and testing i realised that i had missplaced the tx,rx cables to the RS232 adapter (to wrong RS232 pins). I corrected them and tried to dump again with the same outcome (same error as before).
The problem is that now when i turn on the 360 it starts up ok no errors on the screen but when i put either games or movies to the drive, it does not read them and then i get "Unreadable error".
Is it any chance that i destroyed my drive or just i had a laser de-calibration?
If it is the second case i will build a new converter based on the MAX3232 chip and not to the ST3232 as it seems to have differences.
Thank you all in advance, i will appreciate your help.
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Is there a good (better) online forum to learn about this new drive or should I just lurk in #fw and hope for the best?
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Sep 3 2008, 09:05 PM)

Is there a good (better) online forum to learn about this new drive or should I just lurk in #fw and hope for the best?
You'll learn more about it on xbox.com than you will in #fw lol
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Sooo, anywhere?
I think there's a remarkable lack of discussion regarding this, despite how big this news is.
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anyone know a good steep by steep tutorial? i read all the topic and i see two good tutorials but they are a little messy for my english.
besides i would like to know which is the best way to play backups, because if the ss are unic we will be banned in no time.
Regards and thank u all
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QUOTE(KondorX @ Sep 4 2008, 04:49 AM)

anyone know a good steep by steep tutorial? i read all the topic and i see two good tutorials but they are a little messy for my english.
besides i would like to know which is the best way to play backups, because if the ss are unic we will be banned in no time.
Regards and thank u all
This is the best tutorial you will find bar none. It explains everything in detail.
http://beta.ivancove...#Serial_Adapter
ASH
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QUOTE(IronSavior @ Sep 3 2008, 03:32 PM)

Hello to all.
I have a few questions for you experts.
1) If you make something wrong to the construction of the RS232 to TTL converter, when you start the procedure of dumping the key can you damage the drive?
2) As i read you can construct the RS232 to TTL converter by using the MAX232 chip. As i checked the datasheets of MAX3232 and MAX232, it seems that the do the same job with the difference that the MAX232 requires 5v in order to operate whereas MAX3232 can work either by 3.3 or 5.
My question is:
If i supply the MAX232 with 5V from the PSU of my PC and not with the 3.3 of the XBOX360 controller, is their any chance to damage the drive?
3) I built an RS232 to TTL converter based on ST3232 chip. I did not manage to dump the key although i followed the guide (WITH NO CONNECTIVITY KIT) step by step. The error i was accepting from DVDKEY was the following:
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey 9000
Port 9000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
It didn't work, sorry reg1: 54
DVD key:
00000000000000000000000000000000
Seems NOT a good DVD Key!!! 00 00
KEY.BIN saved
I am sure that the COM communication is ok as i tested my RS232 adapter by looping the tx and rx cables to the hyper terminal. Also my port has the right setting (3F8/IRQ4).
I tried several times with a lot of different variants of the dumping procedure with no result i was taking the same error all the time.
After testing and testing i realised that i had missplaced the tx,rx cables to the RS232 adapter (to wrong RS232 pins). I corrected them and tried to dump again with the same outcome (same error as before).
The problem is that now when i turn on the 360 it starts up ok no errors on the screen but when i put either games or movies to the drive, it does not read them and then i get "Unreadable error".
Is it any chance that i destroyed my drive or just i had a laser de-calibration?
If it is the second case i will build a new converter based on the MAX3232 chip and not to the ST3232 as it seems to have differences.
Thank you all in advance, i will appreciate your help.
Anyone please??
Also, if you use the connectivity kit is it mandatory to join the two jumpers/solder pads for TxD and RxD on the drive?
If you use an RS232 to TTL converter MAX232 based, will the IC operate if you supply it with 3.3 volts and not with 5V?
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Can somebody clarify the following as it is critical to the dumping process.
I have read to some tuts that the drive must be half opened in open state and other say that the drive must be opened in close state.
Can someone that managed to grab the key clarify the above?
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QUOTE(ash1471 @ Sep 4 2008, 08:42 AM)

This is the best tutorial you will find bar none. It explains everything in detail.
http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/index.php/Xbox_360_Lite-On_DG16D2S_Extract_Key#Serial_Adapter
ASH
yes kwno i can see the pictures, really a good value thankks
QUOTE(ash1471 @ Sep 4 2008, 08:42 AM)

This is the best tutorial you will find bar none. It explains everything in detail.
http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/index.php/Xbox_360_Lite-On_DG16D2S_Extract_Key#Serial_Adapter
ASH
yes now i can see the pictures, really a good value thankks
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Can somebody confirm this TxD point? I lost the reconnect point but seems that it goes to this point too?
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QUOTE(qaz_76 @ Sep 4 2008, 06:01 PM)

Can somebody confirm this TxD point? I lost the reconnect point but seems that it goes to this point too?
Could not find edit so i quote myself.
Can someone confirm these orange points?
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O my goodness. No. the first 2, are already connected, the other one, if you connected it, you probably fried the controller chip, the regulator or whatever it is, or both.
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Great. spend 3 hours, and still no key. Tried both the DVdkey32 and the Dvdkey. Dvdkey keeps outputting "0000000000000000" as my key and to try again.
All soldering are solid, tested with DM-Meter. I used Ipred to determine my Via 6421 chipset DeviceIO. It says it is "84008c00". So to use dvdkey32 I would type in "dvdkey32 8400 8c00 1" ? anyone?
and for dvdkey under DOS, can we use a floppy? worry about free space on it for the dump.
Can anyone who has been successful post whether they pop the DVD tray half open using the (paperclip method)./ chipset / Serial chipset ST3232/ rs32 ect ect.
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goddammit i keep on getting messge drive found wait 20 sec and then error sending cdb
i ordered the adapter on ebay i soldered directly to drive i don.t have Connectivity kit
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I have the question ??? or com1 has to be integrated with the mainboard or he can be from the external controller PCI COM >> http://www.sunix.com.tw/cc/en/detail.php?class_a=&prod_id=287 (becose i not have COM on my motherboard)
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Myeah, I was up for hours last night trying to get it to work too. I think I got the inquiry.bin and identify.bin, but never the key. Weird.
Anyway, anyone know if this adapter works? It's what I have. http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/0127
I connected 3v > VCC. That's right, right?
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QUOTE(thestanleycup @ Sep 5 2008, 10:07 AM)

goddammit i keep on getting messge drive found wait 20 sec and then error sending cdb
i ordered the adapter on ebay i soldered directly to drive i don.t have Connectivity kit
That because you selected the wrong port. Refer to the http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/index.php/X...#Serial_Adapter above to determine your port.
BTW I'm using the xbox360 to power up the DVD drive. Is it normal to have the tray close once it has been place in the half open stage? In each try, the DVD drive will closed it self on power on.
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QUOTE(Great2bfree @ Sep 5 2008, 10:06 AM)

That because you selected the wrong port. Refer to the http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/index.php/X...#Serial_Adapter above to determine your port.
BTW I'm using the xbox360 to power up the DVD drive. Is it normal to have the tray close once it has been place in the half open stage? In each try, the DVD drive will closed it self on power on.
Okay thanks for the info , i finally got to get the key!!!
thanks for your tip but believe it or not , i got a bad news to go with it, i unsoldered the adapter from the lite on then plugged back the liteon in 360, i put original game of 360 in drive , i close the drawer, drive starts to read and immediatly stops reading and gives the Open Tray message
shit!!! what now!!! did i fried the liteon ?????
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QUOTE(thestanleycup @ Sep 5 2008, 09:27 PM)

Okay thanks for the info , i finally got to get the key!!!

thanks for your tip but believe it or not , i got a bad news to go with it, i unsoldered the adapter from the lite on then plugged back the liteon in 360, i put original game of 360 in drive , i close the drawer, drive starts to read and immediatly stops reading and gives the Open Tray message

shit!!! what now!!! did i fried the liteon ?????
Why would you want to extrakt the key and then put the lite-on drive back? Just curious
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QUOTE(giovani78 @ Sep 5 2008, 04:19 PM)

Why would you want to extrakt the key and then put the lite-on drive back? Just curious

To play games while he waits for a Samsung drive ordered from eBay?
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QUOTE(thestanleycup @ Sep 5 2008, 08:27 PM)

Okay thanks for the info , i finally got to get the key!!!

thanks for your tip but believe it or not , i got a bad news to go with it, i unsoldered the adapter from the lite on then plugged back the liteon in 360, i put original game of 360 in drive , i close the drawer, drive starts to read and immediatly stops reading and gives the Open Tray message

shit!!! what now!!! did i fried the liteon ?????
Did you use a floppy? Use the xbox 360 to turn it on?
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Great2bfree: try this
dvdkey32 8400 840A 1
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QUOTE(podger @ Sep 6 2008, 02:43 AM)

Great2bfree: try this
dvdkey32 8400 840A 1
Thanks. but no luck, computer crashes. Win Xp 32bit
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Have you tried a slax cd to get the port info.
1. boot slax 2.1
2. login root/toor
3. dmesg | grep SATA
you should see a few line with the cmd port and the ctrl port
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hi after reading tons of info, i have another question:
Supose this
1) i get my dvdkey from the lite-on
2) i put my new lite-on in the 360
can i play original games? or this mod will kill my lite-on for using in the 360.
Thanks.
PD someone can send me a new samsung from ebay =) i cant find anyone in argentina =P
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QUOTE(KondorX @ Sep 6 2008, 05:21 AM)

hi after reading tons of info, i have another question:
Supose this
1) i get my dvdkey from the lite-on
2) i put my new lite-on in the 360
can i play original games? or this mod will kill my lite-on for using in the 360.
Thanks.
PD someone can send me a new samsung from ebay =) i cant find anyone in argentina =P
Well I belive the the rate of dead drive after mob is high. Of the people who attended this arleady, 2 have claim that their drive has die. I myself had not tried it yet, but it might be dead from all the On/off shit I've done to it.
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QUOTE(Great2bfree @ Sep 5 2008, 08:18 AM)

Great. spend 3 hours, and still no key. Tried both the DVdkey32 and the Dvdkey. Dvdkey keeps outputting "0000000000000000" as my key and to try again.
and for dvdkey under DOS, can we use a floppy? worry about free space on it for the dump.
Can anyone who has been successful post whether they pop the DVD tray half open using the (paperclip method)./ chipset / Serial chipset ST3232/ rs32 ect ect.
I am at this point, I have tried 2 pc's, different serial ports but with the same result. (I am using the connectivity kit). When I tried dvdkey32 it returned all C's as the key but the inquery.bin looked to be fine (had the lite-on drive model etc.)
Is all the information read from the serial interface or only the key? I am trying to work out whether the serial interface is working or not. I have checked the voltage on the connector pins, ensured all the connections are good.
I am stumped and would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you
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I've just bought another 360 with a lite-on drive and will probably be trying this.
Is it possible to make a power adaptor for the 360 drive from a spare power cable connected to a molex connector in my pc? The only missing bit is the 3.3v, does this need to be 3.3v or could I use 5v? I could make it from a sata power connector I suppose if I NEED 3.3v
I just need to get the serial adaptor ordered.
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Yes you can make your own power adapter molex-->10 pin power connector. You need to get a voltage regulator to cut the 5v down to 3.3v. I used a lm317t.
Im pretty sure clevermods has a schematic.
Going to try one of these lite-ons once I get all the equipment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pop.gif)
This post has been edited by Just a Shadow: Sep 6 2008, 03:41 PM
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I'm starting to think that the xbox's link cable is messing around with the dvd key dump. Since the tutorial only mention power to be feed to he drive, I'm going to run the power and ground only from the xbox over to the drive directly. A nice on/off switch should come in handing.
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I've just pulled a phone data cable apart and found a Sipex SP237ACT, this seems to be practically the same as a max3232 only with more inputs/outputs, I've found the data sheet for it and it has all the same connectors so would I be right in thinking I can use this in place of the max3232?
Soldering iron is heating for the start of the operation!!
Thanks,
Rob
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QUOTE(Great2bfree @ Sep 5 2008, 08:18 AM)

Great. spend 3 hours, and still no key. Tried both the DVdkey32 and the Dvdkey. Dvdkey keeps outputting "0000000000000000" as my key and to try again.
All soldering are solid, tested with DM-Meter. I used Ipred to determine my Via 6421 chipset DeviceIO. It says it is "84008c00". So to use dvdkey32 I would type in "dvdkey32 8400 8c00 1" ? anyone?
and for dvdkey under DOS, can we use a floppy? worry about free space on it for the dump.
Can anyone who has been successful post whether they pop the DVD tray half open using the (paperclip method)./ chipset / Serial chipset ST3232/ rs32 ect ect.
Using usb memory stick (formatted with dos on it) dvdkey1.1...max232 (not3232)...
After trial and error i found that using the xbox on/off button to power the drive, just sends a close command to it and gives the above (00000000000000000)...power on xbox and close drive, then pull the power plug from the back of the drive and use paperclip method and pull out to half way, follow the tut and when it comes to power on the drive just plug it back in (do not power on/off the actual console). Works like a charm and drive stays at half way, it doesnt close when powered on causing the read to fail
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Anyone know if this works?
(IMG:http://www.pololu.com/picture/thumbnail/0J109.jpg)
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/126
QUOTE
This deluxe serial port adapter (RS-232 adapter) converts logic-level signals to the higher voltages required for RS-232 and similar serial ports. Unlike competing units, the Pololu serial adapter operates over a 3-5.5 V supply range and gives you access to all eight of the signal lines available on a DB9 connector, including five transmit lines and three receive lines.
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QUOTE(fastflow @ Sep 6 2008, 07:37 PM)

Using usb memory stick (formatted with dos on it) dvdkey1.1...max232 (not3232)...
After trial and error i found that using the xbox on/off button to power the drive, just sends a close command to it and gives the above (00000000000000000)...power on xbox and close drive, then pull the power plug from the back of the drive and use paperclip method and pull out to half way, follow the tut and when it comes to power on the drive just plug it back in (do not power on/off the actual console). Works like a charm and drive stays at half way, it doesnt close when powered on causing the read to fail
Wo0o0o00o0T lol! I'm having a whole Shot of Hennessy under your name buddy!~ wo0o0o0T
You stated my problem, which was using the xbox console to power on and off. Instead, I should have unplug the Link cable. I have now successfully retrieved my key.
For others, I used a floppy, MAX3232, VIA6421, DVDkey(Dos version), Paper clip method.
This post has been edited by Great2bfree: Sep 7 2008, 03:27 AM
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QUOTE(Great2bfree @ Sep 7 2008, 03:26 AM)

Wo0o0o00o0T lol! I'm having a whole Shot of Hennessy under your name buddy!~ wo0o0o0T
You stated my problem, which was using the xbox console to power on and off. Instead, I should have unplug the Link cable. I have now successfully retrieved my key.
For others, I used a floppy, MAX3232, VIA6421, DVDkey(Dos version), Paper clip method.
LOL!!! Glad it helped
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Has anyone had any luck using the drive again after reading the key? I'd rather be able to use the drive again, just in case, if you know what I mean!
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Be aware if you have purchased this serial adapter off ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAX3232-RS232-to-TTL...p3286.m63.l1177
Mine has the TX and TX pins incorrectly labeled. If you are struggling with it, and keep getting 0's for a key, have a check that TX goes to pin 11 and Rx goes to pin 12. Mine didnt, and on inspection I figured I must have made a soldering error on the 2 wires, but found I hadnt. It was as simple as swapping them round.
So if you have one of the adaptors above, KIV that it may be the same for you.
Regards.
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QUOTE(RobTurbo @ Sep 7 2008, 02:38 PM)

Has anyone had any luck using the drive again after reading the key? I'd rather be able to use the drive again, just in case, if you know what I mean!
drive works fine.
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QUOTE
' date='Sep 8 2008, 12:43 AM' post='4339390']
Be aware if you have purchased this serial adapter off ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAX3232-RS232-to-TTL...p3286.m63.l1177Mine has the TX and TX pins incorrectly labeled. If you are struggling with it, and keep getting 0's for a key, have a check that TX goes to pin 11 and Rx goes to pin 12. Mine didnt, and on inspection I figured I must have made a soldering error on the 2 wires, but found I hadnt. It was as simple as swapping them round.
So if you have one of the adaptors above, KIV that it may be the same for you.
Regards.
Thx man... Just bought one of those, you just saved me a assload of troubleshooting.
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QUOTE
' date='Sep 7 2008, 05:43 PM' post='4339390']
Be aware if you have purchased this serial adapter off ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAX3232-RS232-to-TTL...p3286.m63.l1177Mine has the TX and TX pins incorrectly labeled. If you are struggling with it, and keep getting 0's for a key, have a check that TX goes to pin 11 and Rx goes to pin 12. Mine didnt, and on inspection I figured I must have made a soldering error on the 2 wires, but found I hadnt. It was as simple as swapping them round.
So if you have one of the adaptors above, KIV that it may be the same for you.
Regards.
It's pretty common that you'd have to connect the device's transmit (tx) to an adapter's receive (rx) and device's receive (rx) to the adapter's transmit (rx). Sometimes pre-made devices have them labeled to the serial port, sometimes they have them labeled to the device being hooked up - an annoyance that requires one to know their hardware.
This post has been edited by cory1492: Sep 8 2008, 07:44 AM
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Having trouble with this.
Key coming back all "0"s. Sees the drive on the right port.
Using Connectivity kit v2. VIA 6241 PCI card.
Check soldering. Check TX and RX points are the right way.
Is there an easy way to check my RS232 converter is working correctly?
What else would cause this?
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Got My RS232 converter the other day and a 360 with a liteon hope it works out for me.
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XmodsUK: Yes, download realterm... it's free
in the display tab click Display As: Hex, click change
int port tab, select baud = 115200, parity = n, data = 8, stop =1, flox = none... click change and open.
on the pins tab click set break....
you should get a continuious stream of 010101010 auto baud......
this is always there when the drive is on......
This post has been edited by podger: Sep 9 2008, 03:34 AM
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GRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH!!! 5 fucking hours of my life wasted trying to get this POS to work! >_____________< *sighs and switches the cables and sees if it works*
QUOTE
' date='Sep 8 2008, 01:43 AM' post='4339390']
Be aware if you have purchased this serial adapter off ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAX3232-RS232-to-TTL...p3286.m63.l1177Mine has the TX and TX pins incorrectly labeled. If you are struggling with it, and keep getting 0's for a key, have a check that TX goes to pin 11 and Rx goes to pin 12. Mine didnt, and on inspection I figured I must have made a soldering error on the 2 wires, but found I hadnt. It was as simple as swapping them round.
So if you have one of the adaptors above, KIV that it may be the same for you.
Regards.
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QUOTE(podger @ Sep 9 2008, 04:33 AM)

XmodsUK: Yes, download realterm... it's free
in the display tab click Display As: Hex, click change
int port tab, select baud = 115200, parity = n, data = 8, stop =1, flox = none... click change and open.
on the pins tab click set break....
you should get a continuious stream of 010101010 auto baud......
this is always there when the drive is on......
Can we get a more extensive guide on this? This is my main problem. I can't verify if the adapter I have even has contact.
I can't find "flox" for instance. And "Hex", should it be "Hex (space)"?
Think it'd be best if you just took some screen grabs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/love.gif)
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I tried this today seem to work Ok got the key etc, problem is I have not tried it yet as I used a old drive to test it but it shows open tray is this firmware related? im thinking it wouldn't be
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I got to work one time but it showed up put this game in a 360 console Cry Im pretty sure I did it right Im using a MS 28 drive and spoofed it to a lite on.
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Display tab:
(IMG:http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/6451/displaytabys1.jpg)
Port tab:
(IMG:http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/4403/porttabzq4.jpg)
Pins Tab:
(IMG:http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/6651/pinstabhl8.jpg)
On the last one you can even see the key come out in the format
83 xx xx xx 83 xx xx xx 83 xx xx xx 83 xx xx xx 83 xx xx xx 83 xx 20 20
This post has been edited by podger: Sep 9 2008, 11:04 AM
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I got it working I used a working dvd drive and it works pretty easy really
-
Thanks a lot Podger. I assume that you just have to plug in the drive using the adapter with the power connected to it to make the ones and zeroes show up like that? No eject trick, no dvdkey program?
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Exactly, it should be there all the time, you can use this to verify the Serial cable. I saw it mentioned somewhere that some of the Ebay ones have Tx and Rx labled in reverse....
I just left RealTerm open but and hooked to com 2 while I ran the DVDKey, just to get the image with the key and to verify my DVDKey32 exe also before I added the code for the com port....
This post has been edited by podger: Sep 9 2008, 06:29 PM
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I bought this adapter. http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Co...p3286.m20.l1116
I used soulheaven's instructions. Connect all the solder points, bridged the 2 pads, leave the tray half open, but I keep on getting this error when using dvdkey 1.1
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey bc00
Port bc00
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
It didn't work, sorry reg1: 54
DVD key:
00000000000000000000000000000000
Seems NOT a good DVD Key!!! 00 00
KEY.BIN saved
I tried dvdkey 1.2 and I was able to save the INQUIRY.BIN and INDENTIFY.BIN but no key. Does anyone know what i'm doing wrong?
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I bought this adapter. http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Co...p3286.m20.l1116
I used soulheaven's instructions. Connect all the solder points, bridged the 2 pads, leave the tray half open, but I keep on getting this error when using dvdkey 1.1 with ntfs2dos cd.
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey bc00
Port bc00
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
It didn't work, sorry reg1: 54
DVD key:
00000000000000000000000000000000
Seems NOT a good DVD Key!!! 00 00
KEY.BIN saved
I tried dvdkey 1.2 on both VT6421 card and onboard VIA SATA Port and I was able to save the INQUIRY.BIN and INDENTIFY.BIN but no key. Does anyone know what i'm doing wrong?
c:\LO>dvdkey2 9000
Port 9000
PLDS DG-16D2S
INDITIFY.BIN saved
PLDS DG-16D2S 74850CA0
INQUIRY.BIN saved
It didn't work, sorry sega: 54
Nothing received from COM port
This post has been edited by xlinkx: Sep 9 2008, 08:15 PM
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I have this
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey bc00
Port bc00
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
and then nothing more i can wait an hour
i don`t get the 0000000000000000000 what did i do wrong
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is anyone doing this for money because i had my xbox 360 modd and then my motherbord went out so i got me a new 1 not knowing that it had a new drive so i would like to have this 1 done 2
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QUOTE(podger @ Sep 9 2008, 04:33 AM)

XmodsUK: Yes, download realterm... it's free
in the display tab click Display As: Hex, click change
int port tab, select baud = 115200, parity = n, data = 8, stop =1, flox = none... click change and open.
on the pins tab click set break....
you should get a continuious stream of 010101010 auto baud......
this is always there when the drive is on......
I tried this but realterm display a black screen with CTS blinking green. Does that mean my the serial adapter isn't working? or maybe the serial port?
-
Well it appears my RS converter isn't working.
Cheers Podger
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Finally got it working. Got that adapter (actually, I got 3) that had the RX/TX flipped, so I flipped those, then hooked the connector up to the computer, made sure it worked. It didn't, so I checked the solderings and it turned out one had come loose (stupid weak kynar wire), soldered it back, worked like a charm.

Thanks again Podger.
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Did anyone successfully get this adapter to work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Co...bayphotohosting
(IMG:http://i23.ebayimg.com/05/i/08/4e/5b/54_1.JPG)
I've spent 6 hrs and tried every possible way but nothing seems to work. I even swapped Rx and Tx, it still doesn't work. I keep on getting 00000 for the key.
This post has been edited by xlinkx: Sep 10 2008, 02:00 AM
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Sep 10 2008, 02:59 AM)

Did anyone successfully get this adapter to work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Co...bayphotohosting(IMG:
http://i23.ebayimg.com/05/i/08/4e/5b/54_1.JPG)
I've spent 6 hrs and tried every possible way but nothing seems to work. I even swapped Rx and Tx, it still doesn't work. I keep on getting 00000 for the key.
Haven't gotten that adapter, but make sure the RX and TX wires are soldered to the right pins (see previous page) and use Podgers guide to see if it actually works before attempting to dump the key.
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Sep 10 2008, 03:07 AM)

Haven't gotten that adapter, but make sure the RX and TX wires are soldered to the right pins (see previous page) and use Podgers guide to see if it actually works before attempting to dump the key.
Which guide are you referring to?
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The realterm guide. If you didn't get the 1's and 0's it's not working. Remember the serial port needs to be on "3F8/IRQ4" to work as well (check your bios settings). This was my main grapple. I was using an old computer since mine didn't have a serial port (I thought), never worked on that one, had to switch without knowing why.
This post has been edited by Ree1981: Sep 10 2008, 02:30 AM
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For figuring out whether the port are labeled incorrectly, couldn't you guys place a Diode on the TX over to the RX and use Realterm or any other programs to test it? This way you can identify the correct transmission channel and diagnose whether the device even works. just my 1 cent.
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QUOTE(dedadaman @ Sep 9 2008, 03:03 PM)

I have this
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey bc00
Port bc00
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
and then nothing more i can wait an hour
i don`t get the 0000000000000000000 what did i do wrong
had same issue has you , i have via 6421 card. i was using port 1 on my sata card wich is also bc00 and then tried the second port of the card with port c800 and bam it worked right away , good luck
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this one on ebay has a generic chip but it worked great http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-TTL-converter...id=p3911.c0.m14(IMG:http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/geep6/be77_1.jpg)
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leave tray half open
plug in sata cable
turn pc on
insert ntfs2dos cd
Wait for yes/no prompt
plug in power cable to connectivity kit v1.
extract the key with dvdkey 1.1 or 1.2 (this version grabs the key faster)
This works with both VT6421 card and onboard sata. If this doesn't work try to invert Rx and Tx wire. I had to do this with my adapter.
This post has been edited by xlinkx: Sep 10 2008, 07:21 AM
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QUOTE(thestanleycup @ Sep 10 2008, 07:31 AM)

had same issue has you , i have via 6421 card. i was using port 1 on my sata card wich is also bc00 and then tried the second port of the card with port c800 and bam it worked right away , good luck
thank you, I have also a via 6421 card and go trying if I am at home
I let you know
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Sep 9 2008, 08:59 PM)

Did anyone successfully get this adapter to work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Co...bayphotohosting(IMG:
http://i23.ebayimg.com/05/i/08/4e/5b/54_1.JPG)
I've spent 6 hrs and tried every possible way but nothing seems to work. I even swapped Rx and Tx, it still doesn't work. I keep on getting 00000 for the key.
Did you end up getting it to work with that cable?
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QUOTE(calloused labia @ Sep 10 2008, 10:38 AM)

Did you end up getting it to work with that cable?
Yes, I had to invert the Rx and Tx wire. Look at my last post.
-
podger:
at your pic of the tutorial about Realterm the RX box is lighting yellow.
When i tried realterm i noticed that at mine the CTS, DCD and DSR are lighting GREEN.
IS that the problem? and if so what is the problem?
i have the following http://cgi.ebay.nl/RS232-TTL-Convertor-Cable-Kit-MAX3232-for-AVR-PIC- GPS_W0QQitemZ160281226070QQihZ006QQcategoryZ4663QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZVie
wItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122 and installed everything as the tutorials are saying
King Regards
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Finally got dvdkey32 to dump lite-on key using a pci serial card.
I was originally typing this
dvdkey32 ec00 ec0a 4 (4) being the com port. Using a via sata card.
Kept getting bsod and pc would reboot.
I then set sata in bios to native/compatible and used my onboard sata which is ich9 and typed,
dvdkey32 1f0 3f6 4
and it worked straight away.
Hope this helps someone.
ASH
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QUOTE(xlinkx @ Sep 10 2008, 05:17 AM)

Yes, I had to invert the Rx and Tx wire. Look at my last post.
I looked at your last post. When you say invert do you mean swap? Your original post mentions you swapped the RX and TX. I realize the RX and TX need to be swapped... like a crossover cable.
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QUOTE(ash1471 @ Sep 10 2008, 11:47 AM)

Finally got dvdkey32 to dump lite-on key using a pci serial card.
I was originally typing this
dvdkey32 ec00 ec0a 4 (4) being the com port. Using a via sata card.
Kept getting bsod and pc would reboot.
I then set sata in bios to native/compatible and used my onboard sata which is ich9 and typed,
dvdkey32 1f0 3f6 4
and it worked straight away.
Hope this helps someone.
ASH
My port numbers are C000 C402 but when i push enter the computer reboots (same problem)
But how do you know these numbers? (1f0 3f6) is there some calculete manner to make the numbers ec00 ec0a to 1f0 3f6
tnx
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QUOTE(spider85 @ Sep 10 2008, 12:30 PM)

My port numbers are C000 C402 but when i push enter the computer reboots (same problem)
But how do you know these numbers? (1f0 3f6) is there some calculete manner to make the numbers ec00 ec0a to 1f0 3f6
tnx
i simply just typed what was in the readme file
ASH
-
my key is CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC - CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC
and i used: dvdkey32 09e0 be2 4
my com port is 4 on PCI serial adapter....
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QUOTE(thestanleycup @ Sep 10 2008, 07:31 AM)

had same issue has you , i have via 6421 card. i was using port 1 on my sata card wich is also bc00 and then tried the second port of the card with port c800 and bam it worked right away , good luck
I have still the problem I have used another poort of the via 6421 card
and also the newest via drivers on the PC
I have this
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey C000
Port C000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
and then nothing more i can wait an hour
i don`t get even the 0000000000000000000 what did i do wrong
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QUOTE(calloused labia @ Sep 10 2008, 12:09 PM)

I looked at your last post. When you say invert do you mean swap? Your original post mentions you swapped the RX and TX. I realize the RX and TX need to be swapped... like a crossover cable.
Connect Rxd to Txd and Txd to Rxd. The wires were mislabeled.
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QUOTE(dedadaman @ Sep 10 2008, 07:38 PM)

I have still the problem I have used another poort of the via 6421 card
and also the newest via drivers on the PC
I have this
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey C000
Port C000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
and then nothing more i can wait an hour
i don`t get even the 0000000000000000000 what did i do wrong
if you do not use the converter then must you nevertheless get this right?
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey 9000
Port 9000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
It didn't work, sorry reg1: 54
DVD key:
00000000000000000000000000000000
Seems NOT a good DVD Key!!! 00 00
KEY.BIN saved
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QUOTE(dedadaman @ Sep 10 2008, 09:30 PM)

if you do not use the converter then must you nevertheless get this right?
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey 9000
Port 9000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
It didn't work, sorry reg1: 54
DVD key:
00000000000000000000000000000000
Seems NOT a good DVD Key!!! 00 00
KEY.BIN saved
Try using dvdkey 1.2
-
dvdkey 1.2 is no go too
-
QUOTE(dedadaman @ Sep 10 2008, 11:33 PM)

dvdkey 1.2 is no go too
What errors did you get?
-
no errors
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey 9000
Port 9000
-
and the computer does further nothing I can wait an hour
nothing happens
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QUOTE(dedadaman @ Sep 11 2008, 08:06 AM)

no errors
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey 9000
Port 9000
-
and the computer does further nothing I can wait an hour
nothing happens
I think you got the wrong port.
-
Yeah, seems like the program crashes before you even get the error. You're supposed to get "Port 9000".. then after a while it'll tell you if it had problems doing one thing or another.
How did you find out it was port 9000? Sounds unusual to me.
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hi all got a friend trying to extract the key from the drive for me
when he soldered the Tx & Rx links he lifted the lower solder pads
anyone know any alternative solder points Please
-
the via's just below the solder points.
-
XmodsUK Posted Today, 01:27 AM
the via's just below the solder points.
yep ripped off all the way down he has turned the board over and is soldering where they come out the other side
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QUOTE(dedadaman @ Sep 10 2008, 01:38 PM)

I have still the problem I have used another poort of the via 6421 card
and also the newest via drivers on the PC
I have this
c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey C000
Port C000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds
and then nothing more i can wait an hour
i don`t get even the 0000000000000000000 what did i do wrong
OK GO INTO YOUR BIOS COMPUTER TURN OFF THE IDE CONFIGURATION PUT IT AT DISABLE
-
Hmm I think my MAX3232 chip is bad. When I have the drive hooked up with the teraterm open. I turn the drive on and it shows break then goes to rx for a split second. With two bits popping up in the console. Then nothing.
When using the software to dump the key I get the iquiry.bin first. I never get the drive confirmation.
Thoughts?
This post has been edited by spiffyville: Sep 12 2008, 06:46 AM
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I am thinking about trying this. I have some experience soldering .. but much larger things. Guitar pick-ups volume pots and switches.
What size soldering tips are you guys using? Is a 15 watt iron ok? Is there another way to bridge the points on the liteon.. Like with a lead pencil or something?
Thanks
-
QUOTE(calloused labia @ Sep 12 2008, 12:22 PM)

I am thinking about trying this. I have some experience soldering .. but much larger things. Guitar pick-ups volume pots and switches.
What size soldering tips are you guys using? Is a 15 watt iron ok? Is there another way to bridge the points on the liteon.. Like with a lead pencil or something?
Thanks
I think you're better off getting a DVD power cable (a spare Xbox 1 one works as well) and making Y-connections out of the necessary cables. This way you can avoid soldering 4 out of the 6 solderings on the actual board. The remaining 2 I've heard one guy just sticking a thin copper wire into to make them connect (sorta like your lead pencil).
I say this because you need a pretty small tip for those two remaining ones. Doesn't sound like something you can do with a 15 watter. Just my opinion though.
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Sep 12 2008, 07:02 PM)

The remaining 2 I've heard one guy just sticking a thin copper wire into to make them connect (sorta like your lead pencil).
Yup, I did that, get a bit of sticky tape and stick 2 single strands of wire to it, about 3mm long, spaced the same as the points you need to connect, once they're stuck on, position them over the points carefuly and stick it on, when you run dvdkey, push lightly on the back of the tape to make sure you get a good contact. Worked a treat for me!
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IS anyone else having this problem. I can get the key but not the INQUIRY.BIN
or the IDENTIFY.BIN . Dumps the KEY fine but it just stays there after that. look at the picture.
(IMG:http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/5113/keypicux1.jpg)
(IMG:http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/keypicux1.jpg/1/w640.png)
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D2C MASTER:
the hard bit it done.... You can do a few things...
1. try the 32 bit version I wrote, in windows, it might work better, just check xbins
2. PM you drive barcode and e-mail and I return the correct inquiry.bin to you
3. also i wrote a 16 bit inquiry, just to test my 16 bit code when I was doing Benq_Un_lock 16 bit you can have that if you like.... let me know what you would like to do....
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QUOTE(podger @ Sep 13 2008, 03:39 PM)

D2C MASTER:
the hard bit it done.... You can do a few things...
1. try the 32 bit version I wrote, in windows, it might work better, just check xbins
2. PM you drive barcode and e-mail and I return the correct inquiry.bin to you
3. also i wrote a 16 bit inquiry, just to test my 16 bit code when I was doing Benq_Un_lock 16 bit you can have that if you like.... let me know what you would like to do....
Can you tell why the 32bit always does a bluescreen to me? Have tried xp and vista.
-
I can't get any of them to work honestly. I get can the I think identify.bin if I use dvdkey 1.2, but nothing for 1.1 and the 32bit one. Pissing me off royally. Just will hang at this can take 20 seconds, and the 32bit ones says my key is ccccccccccccccccccccc
-
qaz_76:
I am looking into this, but I can't replicate the problem here, so i'm working remotely with others, it's slow going, sorry. There is a general problem with direct port access in XP as it is not supported... So this whole idea of port i/o access in Win32/64 is a "Hack". Dosflash has the same problem.
ILikeMeat:
All cc's means nothing was returned from the serial port...
1. Check that you cable is working, My post #145 a few pages back shows how to use RealTerm to verify this....
2. That you are actually using the right port and that is is not being used by another driver that is blocking access to it.
-
D2C Master> I managed to get the inquiry.bin but not drive key when I pressed the eject button a few seconds after it says "wait about 20 seconds". Try that.
-
QUOTE(D2C MASTER @ Sep 13 2008, 02:53 AM)

IS anyone else having this problem. I can get the key but not the INQUIRY.BIN
or the IDENTIFY.BIN . Dumps the KEY fine but it just stays there after that. look at the picture.
I have the very same problem on my AMD64 PC. No matter how I do it, be it with a floppy, NTFS4DOS boot, or USB pen drive, I get the key then it locks up. its an Abit motherboard, an "AV8-3rd Eye" I think.
I stick the same PCI Sata card in any of my other PC's, boot with the same devices, and it works perfectly.
Can't figure it out, but I suspect its an identical problem.
I have a very similar problem on this same PC with Samsungs on Iprep boot devices.....I get the original fw dumped, but as soon as Casters utility tries to write the hacked fw, the pc locks up. Very strange, but has to be motherboard related.
Do you by any chance have the same motherboard ?
-
ok, i tried on a benQ with dvdkey 1.2 . it worked once but never again after that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
and if i try dvdkey32 from inside windows , i also get a blue screen and it resets pc with error.
i get inquiry .bin and identify.bin but only got key once.
i dont know why it works only sometimes , this reminds me of the ms28 10 second trick. only works rarely with me.
cant we use the 5+ voltage on the board rather than the 3.3volt pin?
maybe rs232 needs more power
This post has been edited by radyboysmith: Sep 14 2008, 05:13 PM
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is anyone in the uk know how to do this. i can send out the drive to them if they will do it for me. overiously ill pay. anyone plz pm me.
-
QUOTE(razuraw @ Sep 14 2008, 07:47 PM)

is anyone in the uk know how to do this. i can send out the drive to them if they will do it for me. overiously ill pay. anyone plz pm me.
Try the F/W flashers section...
-
*Phew* Just had a close call with a drive. I blame partly myself and partly my crappy soldering tip which by now is black and refuses to 'attach' to the solder. It melts it, but leaves a ball of solder on the end of the solder string.
Anyway, I was soldering the two points you have to connect and of course it balled on me and attached the solder string (thread?) to one of the points. I accidently pulled a little and it came off. o_O Fortunately it was the lower one, so I just attached a small gauge kynar wire from the top one to the RX and it was fixed.
Moral of the story, if you're having problems connecting those small points, strip a kynar wire, apply some solder to it and place it so it's touching both connections, then apply your solder iron and attach them. This is better than trying to make a big solder ball over both of them. The less time your solder iron is on the connections, the better.
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QUOTE
' date='Sep 14 2008, 11:16 AM' post='4342661']
I have the very same problem on my AMD64 PC. No matter how I do it, be it with a floppy, NTFS4DOS boot, or USB pen drive, I get the key then it locks up. its an Abit motherboard, an "AV8-3rd Eye" I think.
I stick the same PCI Sata card in any of my other PC's, boot with the same devices, and it works perfectly.
Can't figure it out, but I suspect its an identical problem.
I have a very similar problem on this same PC with Samsungs on Iprep boot devices.....I get the original fw dumped, but as soon as Casters utility tries to write the hacked fw, the pc locks up. Very strange, but has to be motherboard related.
Do you by any chance have the same motherboard ?
Its not the same BOARD i have a asus. but the CPU is similar. i have AMD phenom X4 64. So im sure its the board in some way i tried a diffrent liteon drive but now i wount even give me a key so now im going to be doing some test. and ill get back at you guys.
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QUOTE(megamania2004 @ Sep 10 2008, 06:17 PM)

my key is CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC - CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC
and i used: dvdkey32 09e0 be2 4
my com port is 4 on PCI serial adapter.... (IMG:
style_emoticons/default/grr.gif)
I'm getting that key code to ,, dit you fixt this?? and how
-
I've been reading post after post and have wasted a good 6 hours on this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grr.gif)
I can get inquiry.bin and identify.bin using dvdkey1.2. So if my information is correct that this means my SATA port is correct and the SATA side of stuff is working just fine and I have the half tray stuff working properly. I just cannot get the key.bin. I keep getting the following error:
"It didn't work, sorry Sega:54
COM post seems anyway to work"
Here is some info about my situation:
-A user over at xboxhacker reported he got it working with the exact same MAX2323 dongle that I have.
-I have verified that my COM port is working and that it is in fact COM port 1 I'm using by doing a serial loopback test.
-I have tried rx/tx inverted and normal for everything I've tried
What I really want is to figure out how to get realterm working as that seems to work exclusive of any SATA or dvdtray status so I can rule that stuff out as a problem.
Here's what I've tried with realterm, which from what I can gather this is all you need to do:
-Turn on the PC => once in windows connect the MAX2323 dongle to the PC (already soldered to the Liteon drive with bridges jumped, I used 30gauge wrapping wire straight from the rx/tx/3v/G points on the Liteon to the MAX2323 dongle) => power Liteon with 360 (no SATA connected) => start up realterm (apply all the settings) => click set break.
I've tried this with rx/tx the right way and inverted. I get nothing, the window stays blank/black. I'm using XP(32bit). Also in the status box on the left all I get is the CTS box is green (but not always).
I'm going crazy here, any help or suggestions would be awesome (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
-
Can someone PLEASE confirm this: If I join the rx/tx points on the MAX3232 dongle, should it create an echo when performing a hyperterminal loop test..... because mine doesn't.
If some could confirm this info, then it would mean my MAX3232 dongle is faulty and it would hopefully solve all my problems. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) as all I would need to do is buy a new one.
Cheers
-
XPunked:
Yes that should work. It should work on either side i.e. at rs232 level and Lvttl levels.... If you get nothing on the RS232 side then you will need to look at the serial port you are using...
-
Can we get a pic of the dongle and maybe the solderings? If realterm isn't working for you something's obviously wrong, but what I can't say (yet). I had some bad experience trying to get a 'dongle' (max3232 adapter) working before, don't know why. Anyway I switched and eventually it worked.
-
I,ve confirmed the serial port itself is working with a loop test. It seems the 'max3232 dongle' is faulty though as it doesn't echo with a loop test. I'll post a pick of it soon, I,ve already ordered another one though. Thanks for the responses though. I will post any results here.
-
Im trying to get this done, but i got no key. When i run realterm i only get 0000 not 01010.
If i bridge rx and tx and type anything it gives it back to me. Not with local echo on, or half duplex, so i think my interface works. I built it on a max 3232.
Any ideas?
Ceramic caps. have no polarity, right?
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QUOTE(myztx @ Sep 15 2008, 07:59 PM)

Im trying to get this done, but i got no key. When i run realterm i only get 0000 not 01010.
If i bridge rx and tx and type anything it gives it back to me. Not with local echo on, or half duplex, so i think my interface works. I built it on a max 3232.
Any ideas?
Ceramic caps. have no polarity, right?
I have that exact problem, only 0000, no 0101.
I'm trying to find a solution, I'll be sure to post it if I ever find one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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QUOTE(sittstav @ Sep 15 2008, 08:59 PM)

I have that exact problem, only 0000, no 0101.
I'm trying to find a solution, I'll be sure to post it if I ever find one (IMG:
style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Did you build your own interface or did you buy it?
ill post too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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QUOTE(myztx @ Sep 15 2008, 09:24 PM)

Did you build your own interface or did you buy it?
ill post too (IMG:
style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I built it myself, it's not pretty but I'm confident it's working.
Do you have MSN? Send me a PM with your address and maybe we can figure something out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
ok, i got it working with a max3223 adapter and it works every time. very easy . i think you need a max3232 but my max3223 still works
link-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGbmt7u21GE
i found that the main thing is the tray part . must cut power off to drive and put half way then reconnect power to drive while the xbox 360 is still on .
once that is done its easy peasy. i am from australia if anyone needs it done. pm me.
This post has been edited by radyboysmith: Sep 16 2008, 04:17 PM
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Hi, by searching the drive database i am almost sure that i have this XBOX 360 model. (Because it's the new 60GB Premium PAL version, has HDMI port and i bought it from the same shop)
http://www.360drives.com/list?v_postedby=geox
Since it has Lite-On drive i want to ask if it can be flashed yet? Sorry for the noob question but i am new to this and i am confused.
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*Phew* What a day. Did 6 Lite-ons today, all went well. And I'm not here to brag, just to inform that the soldering 'trick' I reported on earlier works extremely well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
What I did is I used some kynar wire.. I think.. 22 gauge but I'm not sure.
(IMG:http://dreamcast.dcemu.co.uk/images/mod1.jpg)
Stripped the end off just like in the pic and cut it to be about an inch long. I then covered it in a thin layer of solder and placed the soldered, stripped end over the two solder points and pushed down with the soldering iron to make everything come together. Extremely simple.
Here's a bad drawing of how it'll look.
(IMG:http://img28.picoodle.com/data/img28/3/9/16/f_dg16d2suartm_a67990b.jpg)
Once you're done, just heat the wire again, pull gently and it'll come off and be ready to be used again.
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I'm trying to fault find the Max2323 that I've got while I wait for the new one. Can anyone PLEASE confirm that there should be connectivity between the pins 14 and 11 on the diagram below. I get a connection between pins 11,12 and 13 when rx/tx are shorted. It seems pin 14 has no connectivity to any any other legs on the MAX2323 except legs 6 and 7, which I think are grounded on my MAX2323 dongle. But by looking at the diagram there should definitely be a connection between legs 14 and 11.
It would give me a lot of piece of mind knowing all my problems are due to the faulty MAX2323 chip itself.
(IMG:http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/a1133973/400px-Xbox_360_lite-on_rs232_build.png)
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QUOTE(Ree1981 @ Sep 16 2008, 07:04 PM)

*Phew* What a day. Did 6 Lite-ons today, all went well. And I'm not here to brag, just to inform that the soldering 'trick' I reported on earlier works extremely well. (IMG:
style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
What I did is I used some kynar wire.. I think.. 22 gauge but I'm not sure.
(IMG:
http://dreamcast.dcemu.co.uk/images/mod1.jpg)
Stripped the end off just like in the pic and cut it to be about an inch long. I then covered it in a thin layer of solder and placed the soldered, stripped end over the two solder points and pushed down with the soldering iron to make everything come together. Extremely simple.
Here's a bad drawing of how it'll look.
(IMG:
http://img28.picoodle.com/data/img28/3/9/16/f_dg16d2suartm_a67990b.jpg)
Once you're done, just heat the wire again, pull gently and it'll come off and be ready to be used again.
Great idea. I got my cable ready .. just waiting for the 360.
Ree, I thought you mentioned something about using conductive paint to bridge the points on the drive. That didn't work or.. is it just as easy to solder them using the above method?
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Could someone PLEASE spare 3min of their time to pull out their multimeter and report back on the resistance reading between legs 14 and 11 on a working MAX3232 chip, it would be very helpful to me. I am desperate to know this.
(IMG:http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/a1133973/400px-Xbox_360_lite-on_rs232_build.png)
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I really don't think they should be connected. Don't know, but really don't think they should.
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QUOTE(calloused labia @ Sep 17 2008, 04:54 PM)

Great idea. I got my cable ready .. just waiting for the 360.
Ree, I thought you mentioned something about using conductive paint to bridge the points on the drive. That didn't work or.. is it just as easy to solder them using the above method?
I did say something about conductive paint, but when I read up about it it seemed it was a messy solution. The paint could be hard to get off, and if you got too much on it it could cause problems. This solution worked best with the equipment I had, so I just went with it seeing how easy it was (is, I've done 14 Lite-ons so far).
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liteon dump key problem!!!help!!!!
i get INQUIRY.bin and INDENTIFY.bin but i cant get KEY.bin
sega:54 nothing received from com port!
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QUOTE(chenzhuops2 @ Sep 19 2008, 09:52 AM)

liteon dump key problem!!!help!!!!
i get INQUIRY.bin and INDENTIFY.bin but i cant get KEY.bin
sega:54 nothing received from com port!
Got a problem with the RS3232 end of buisness.
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can tell you all i have done six extractions and spoofs no problem
to all those with via6421 best to free drive manually half way which should not be a problem since we have to solder wires in first place then boot dos
type dvdkey ****
****'s being your port number
then turn on power to drive simple
and does not take long to say got something
use dvdkey1.2
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QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Sep 19 2008, 09:41 PM)

Got a problem with the RS3232 end of buisness.
What is the problem
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QUOTE(chenzhuops2 @ Sep 20 2008, 09:36 AM)

What is the problem
Try desoldering the TX and RX lines from the drive, and soldering them together, then do a loopback test in windows to see if your dongle is working.
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QUOTE(ILikeMeat @ Sep 20 2008, 06:23 PM)

Try desoldering the TX and RX lines from the drive, and soldering them together, then do a loopback test in windows to see if your dongle is working.
REATERM test is it? To see how correct?
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(IMG:http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk82/didineedthis/untitled-1.jpg)
hello all first post so take your time, i have installed the realterm prog ,but it shows my settings as CTS and not RXD2 like in podgers post, can some one tell me whats wrong and how to change it please. i have altered he baud to 115200 but the cts tab is green and the rxd2 is not lit, how do i sort it.
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Have you clicked in the window and tried typing?
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QUOTE(XmodsUK @ Sep 21 2008, 10:26 AM)

Have you clicked in the window and tried typing?
what do i type ?
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right i got my identify.bin and my inquiry.bin saved
than i get the message IT DIDNT WORK , SORRY SEGA :54 nothing received from com port
any body shed some light on this , its starting to do my head in now.
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Ive been reading these posts for days now, no luck. I used realterm to check cable i made, and got the 010101's. Im using a via chipset. ive tried dvdkey 1.1, 1.2. and 32, no luck. checked my port using dosflash.
dvdkey sasy "drive present....wait 20 secs" then nothing...its the same problem "deadman" was having on this same thread...anyone have any ideas on this?
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Has anyone had any luck using a usb to serial adaptor that already outputs at 3.3v? I have one that uses a Prolific PL-2303 that I attempted to use, but was unable to even get the 010101 in Realterm. According to the datasheets and all the info that I'm seeing here I have it hooked up correctly, but I would like to see if anybody else here has had any luck.
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QUOTE(cribbo85 @ Sep 21 2008, 02:49 PM)

right i got my identify.bin and my inquiry.bin saved
than i get the message IT DIDNT WORK , SORRY SEGA :54 nothing received from com port
any body shed some light on this , its starting to do my head in now.
any one out there that knows what the problem is (podger)
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Check your rs232 use a multimetre on it check all connections take it apart check again check against the wiring diagram posted the one i bought of ebay had the wiresl abled the wrong way round spent hours even days trying to figure it out ,and was only a simple mistake I have since extracted the key many times using a xbox and a conectivity kit I will post exactly the way i did it and some tips to help you after I have put it together I am at present bulding myself a rs232 using a max 232 but the one i used was a max 3232 of
ebay
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This is what I am building now just to try it got all parts from maplin except the serial connector for £4.50
(IMG:http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp176/buddy6_photos/max232.png)
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QUOTE(buddy6 @ Sep 22 2008, 04:56 PM)

This is what I am building now just to try it got all parts from maplin except the serial connector for £4.50
(IMG:
http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp176/buddy6_photos/max232.png)
you might aswell shoot me in the head ,way out of my league mate
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My set up using a connectivity kit
I have used this method on a via sata adaptor and on my other computer with via sata on the motherboard
As I stated before had a lot of trouble with my rs232 of eBay I bought a max3232 found lead labelled up wrong
For curiosity I tried it with realterm to see if I got the 1 and 0 s witch I doo my setup has the rxd and cts lights blinking
So I would advise everybody to get the 1 and 0s on their rs232 so they can eliminate this
If It still does not work you can look some ware else
A tip witch I have not seen mentioned any ware is the 3.3 volts you may take it of you connectivity kit or of your DVD ROM drive but I have used two 1.5 batteries aa or aaa connected in series two new batteries gives you about 3.15 volts works a treat I have tried this on Xbox360 and connectivity kit it is very simple to use
1 make sure bios is set to 03f8
2 everything switched off
3 connect sata lead to DVD rom drive
4 connect up the rs232 and power to your connectivity kit but dont turn on
5 boot into dos from the floppy you have dvdkey on
6 turn on connectivity kit
7 open drive
8 close drive cut of power when nearly closed
9 pull out draw half way
10 turn connectivity kit back on
11 type dvdkey (port no ----)
12 work every time for me
I will post my setup using xbox360 soon
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QUOTE(shaggyarotten @ Sep 21 2008, 06:53 PM)

Ive been reading these posts for days now, no luck. I used realterm to check cable i made, and got the 010101's. Im using a via chipset. ive tried dvdkey 1.1, 1.2. and 32, no luck. checked my port using dosflash.
dvdkey sasy "drive present....wait 20 secs" then nothing...its the same problem "deadman" was having on this same thread...anyone have any ideas on this?
can anyone give me any suggestions?
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If all else fails, start from the beginning. Get a new adapter, do all the soldering Again, and if that fails, try both adapters on another computer. I've had both an adapter that didn't work and a computer that didn't accept adapters.
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QUOTE(shaggyarotten @ Sep 23 2008, 02:05 AM)

can anyone give me any suggestions?
thanks...i got it working...newest version of dvdkey32 worked no problem.
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QUOTE(shaggyarotten @ Sep 21 2008, 07:53 PM)

Ive been reading these posts for days now, no luck. I used realterm to check cable i made, and got the 010101's. Im using a via chipset. ive tried dvdkey 1.1, 1.2. and 32, no luck. checked my port using dosflash.
dvdkey sasy "drive present....wait 20 secs" then nothing...its the same problem "deadman" was having on this same thread...anyone have any ideas on this?
thanks...i got it working...newest version of dvdkey32 worked no problem.
oke I try it this evening and let you know
This post has been edited by dedadaman: Sep 23 2008, 08:09 AM
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QUOTE(rh387 @ Sep 21 2008, 09:38 PM)

Has anyone had any luck using a usb to serial adaptor that already outputs at 3.3v? I have one that uses a Prolific PL-2303 that I attempted to use, but was unable to even get the 010101 in Realterm. According to the datasheets and all the info that I'm seeing here I have it hooked up correctly, but I would like to see if anybody else here has had any luck.
Got it working. Never got the 010101 in Realterm tho, so I dunno what was up with that. My benq just shipped out, so I will be flashing that as soon as i get it.
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This is The rs232 that I said I was going to build all the parts from maplin cost about £4.50 got 5 Volts from power supply on computer the red wire 5 + volt black for ground ,took abot 1 hour to build works a treat
just need to add a serial connector I put little plugs on my rx tx and ground wires and plugged them into the back of my computer serial port works ok but need to do a proper job hope this helps somebody
FD92A MAX232CPE 1 off
VH03D Minelect 1uF 63V 5 off
some stripboard
(IMG:http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp176/buddy6_photos/max232-1.jpg)
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My set up using Xbox 360
If you have connectivity kit and added the TX and RX wires to the lead
Then you can do the same to the Xbox power lead just add the TX and RX wires to the empty holes
I use two 1.5 volt batteries connected in series to power the max3232 3 volts ,if yours is 5 volts just add three batteries together making 4.5 volts will be ok very easy way
1 connect sata lead to DVD rom drive connect rs232 TX, RX, and power
2 turn on Xbox (do not turn off again until finished)
3 open tray
4 close tray but just before it is closed pull out power lead from DVD drive to motherboard its easier to
Pull the plug out of the motherboard (xbox light is flashing)
5 pull out draw half way
7 boot into dos use doskey port no ---- e.g. doskey ec00 (this is my port no)
Or boot into windows In windows use doskey32 port no ---- 1 e.g. doskey32 ec00 1 (this is my port no and com 1)
This works for me I have used a 3.3 volt max 3232, and 5volt max232 works every time
Hope this helps somebody
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QUOTE(dedadaman @ Sep 23 2008, 09:08 AM)

oke I try it this evening and let you know
it works in the firstly time with dvdkey32 update no more problems I thank everyone
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/jester.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jester.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jester.gif)
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QUOTE(buddy6 @ Sep 23 2008, 09:58 PM)

My set up using Xbox 360
If you have connectivity kit and added the TX and RX wires to the lead
Then you can do the same to the Xbox power lead just add the TX and RX wires to the empty holes
I use two 1.5 volt batteries connected in series to power the max3232 3 volts ,if yours is 5 volts just add three batteries together making 4.5 volts will be ok very easy way
1 connect sata lead to DVD rom drive connect rs232 TX, RX, and power
2 turn on Xbox (do not turn off again until finished)
3 open tray
4 close tray but just before it is closed pull out power lead from DVD drive to motherboard its easier to
Pull the plug out of the motherboard (xbox light is flashing)
5 pull out draw half way
7 boot into dos use doskey port no ---- e.g. doskey ec00 (this is my port no)
Or boot into windows In windows use doskey32 port no ---- 1 e.g. doskey32 ec00 1 (this is my port no and com 1)
This works for me I have used a 3.3 volt max 3232, and 5volt max232 works every time
Hope this helps somebody
step 6 reconect power to motherboard (push plug back in)
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QUOTE(SkyFire360 @ Oct 2 2008, 03:55 AM)

X-hacker, have you tried connecting the Tx and Rx together and tried talking to the setup over Hyperterminal? If your circuit is correct, every time you type something the circuit should echo it back.
You mean the Hyperterminal that is installed with windows or through Realterm?
This is bugging me now. When I connect the adaptor, the TX & RX lights are on solid on Realterm, then when I click open, the busy light just flashes and I get '00' then nothing...
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Just tried connecting the RX/TX wires together, I get nothing from it. After a while the ST232 gets hot. I've checked ALL the solder points and connections MANY times and there aren't any shorts at all. I used 0.1uf ceramic caps and a DB9 connector. Tried it on 2 PCs and still get the same result...
GRRR!!! something as simple as this and can I f**k get it to work... I'm gonna buy one off ebay.
What makes me angry is the fact that I was up til 5.30am mucking about with the damn thing. I tried 2 ST232 ICs just incase one was duff. I completely stripped the board I built it on and rebuilt it from scratch and it still does nothing apart from give me '00'
Oh well... I've learnt the hard way...
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Can someone confirm that this adaptor works for this job?
RS232 Adaptor
Just need to know before I waste more time/money on this.
Thanks
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QUOTE(X-hacker @ Oct 2 2008, 02:36 AM)

I know this might sound stupid and forgive me if I'm wrong...
This is one diagram I have used to build the device...
(IMG:
http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/1039/liteonrs232buildzg2.png)
I have a few card programmers which I've nicked the parts from. I've built the device, but I cannot get it to work with my Liteon...
The only component different I am using is the actual IC, I am using a ST232CN instead of a MAX232...
I checked the datasheets, and the only difference I can see is that the ST232 uses 5v but is the EXACT same pinout as the MAX232.
Here's one on ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ST232CN-Line-Driver-...id=p3286.c0.m14All I get from Realterm is '00' and thats it. I'm using a 5v DC adaptor, but like I said, only the IC is different to the one specified. Should I just bite the bullet and go get a MAX232 from Maplins?
Can anyone advise on this?
looks a but different to me
(IMG:http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp176/buddy6_photos/NewPicture.jpg)
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(IMG:http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/1039/liteonrs232buildzg2.png)
Can someone confirm which way round the capacator goes between pins 15 and 16?
Thanks.
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Just thought I'd chime in again and say there's a simpler circuit you can build that will perform the same function as the MAX232 chip, but only requires 2 MOSFETs and 2 resistors.
Here's the schematic:
(IMG:http://www.botkin.org/dale/images/rs232conv.png)
I can confirm that this circuit works, as I managed to get the key from my Lite-on using it. In total, the parts cost me $0.80 at our school's EE shop, which means you can probably get the parts even cheaper. The resistors I used were 2.2k and the MOSFETs were two 2N7000 ones. For a 5v power supply I just used 3 AA batteries in series (4.5v was enough), and for the 3.3v on the DVD drive I used the same 4.5v. Note, your mileage may vary, but 3.0v did not work for me, so I bumped it up to 4.5 and it worked like a charm (and didn't burn the thing out either).
QUOTE(X-hacker @ Oct 2 2008, 05:37 PM)

You mean the Hyperterminal that is installed with windows or through Realterm?
This is bugging me now. When I connect the adaptor, the TX & RX lights are on solid on Realterm, then when I click open, the busy light just flashes and I get '00' then nothing...
Hyperterminal that is installed with windows. Set up the connection through the COM port and have it connect at 9600 baud, 8 data bits, No parity, 1 stop bit, and *no hardware flow control*. If your circuit is built correctly and you connect Tx and Rx together, you should be able to hit a key and see it echoed back in the terminal window.
This post has been edited by SkyFire360: Oct 2 2008, 10:34 PM
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QUOTE(Vauxfan @ Oct 2 2008, 10:14 PM)

(IMG:
http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/1039/liteonrs232buildzg2.png)
Can someone confirm which way round the capacator goes between pins 15 and 16?
Thanks.
(IMG:http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp176/buddy6_photos/NewPicture1.jpg)
max3232
This post has been edited by buddy6: Oct 2 2008, 11:16 PM
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Thanks, for some reason I made my 1st dongle wrong, I have just redone it while I asked my question and had turned the capacator round.
Hopefully When I retest, it will work.
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I have my key!
Thanks to Geremia and everyone else involved, I now have a nice flashed Benq, much quieter than the liteon.
Also, thanks buddy for confirming the capacator was the wrong way round, I also changed my capacators to 1uf, worked flawlessly.
I might give away my Dongle to someone else that needs it since I can confirm it works 100% just needs tidying up as its just 5 caps soldered directly to the max chip LOL.
QUOTE(maxxximus @ Oct 3 2008, 12:39 AM)

the 2 small joints are really small, what tools do you recomment to solder them?
If you are in the UK I used a £2.99 30w iron from maplins, they are on special offer ATM.
This post has been edited by Vauxfan: Oct 3 2008, 03:35 AM
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QUOTE(maxxximus @ Oct 3 2008, 12:39 AM)

the 2 small joints are really small, what tools do you recomment to solder them?
Fine tipped soldering iron and small gauge solder.
If you arren't an experienced solderer, keep to a LOW wattage iron.
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Got a bit of a problem.
Currently only have a 25pin serial port on my computer. Before buying an adaptor, can I; instead of connecting the converter to a 9 pin socket, connect it to a 25pin plug which will directly connect to my computer?
Going off normal pinouts, it looks like you normally connect the points on a 9 pin to pins 2,3,5 and 7 which on a 25pin layout would be 3,2,7 and 4 (Link)
Please let me know if that will work!
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there is no way to flash the liteon yet. you can ONLY replace it with a different drive.
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Okay everybody,
Can anyone point me to a serial converter that many people had success with? (Same seller if possible)
Would this do? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RS232-TTL-Convertor...idZp1638Q2em122
Just to minimize any error and etc, would any Max3232 serial converter will do?
Cheers
This post has been edited by Zoneout: Oct 6 2008, 01:25 PM
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Good news! I just found an RS232 cable which came with my Mastek Multimeter!! I spent so much time faffing about with crap when I had one all along... I need to have a clear-out...
Just attempting to read the key now, RealTerm & Hyperterminal all give me a loopback when I join the RX/TX pins, so I'm a very very very happy chappy indeed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif):D:D
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I bought this one. Works like a charm.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAX3232-RS232-to-TTL...id=p3911.c0.m14
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QUOTE(XmodsUK @ Oct 6 2008, 03:39 PM)

You have to invert RX and TX for this particular adaptor though.
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Ok, maybe I'm not happy. I spent 4 hours last night with 2 x Liteons and my RS232 cable. Got inquiry.bin & identify.bin from both drives, but no key. The cable I'm using gives an echo in realterm and hyperterminal, AND i tried the TX/RX pins both ways on each drive - NOTHING - GRRR!
One drive gave me all 0000's and the other seemed to give me half a key and the rest 0000's.
Does this MAX3232 really make all that difference? My comport MUST be working cos I have used my programmer on that port...
Can ppl please post their RS232 device used, and also whether or not it was success at extracting the key?
QUOTE(XmodsUK @ Oct 6 2008, 02:39 PM)

How long did the delivery take on that? I don't bother ordering from Hong Kong, but in this case I might...
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QUOTE(Vauxfan @ Oct 3 2008, 03:36 AM)

I have my key!
Thanks to Geremia and everyone else involved, I now have a nice flashed Benq, much quieter than the liteon.
Also, thanks buddy for confirming the capacator was the wrong way round, I also changed my capacators to 1uf, worked flawlessly.
I might give away my Dongle to someone else that needs it since I can confirm it works 100% just needs tidying up as its just 5 caps soldered directly to the max chip LOL.
If you are in the UK I used a £2.99 30w iron from maplins, they are on special offer ATM.
I'll take it if you're done with it! I got a bit of strip board I could stick it on. Pretty pleeeaase!
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You can find 'em in your local electronics store. Well not local, but online at least. Sweden, which is a country of only 9 million, had at least 3 online stores with them.
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i want to build my own board but cannot seem to find anywhere to purchase a max 3232 ic chip in the U.S. can anyone point me in the right direction?
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QUOTE(X-hacker @ Oct 7 2008, 01:26 PM)

How long did the delivery take on that? I don't bother ordering from Hong Kong, but in this case I might...
Might have taken 10 days max. Like I say, works like a charm and I couldn't find any in the UK.
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QUOTE(XmodsUK @ Oct 8 2008, 11:05 AM)

Might have taken 10 days max. Like I say, works like a charm and I couldn't find any in the UK.
Ok, cheers XmodsUK. I'm gonna order one on monday. Sick of wasting time with crap hopeing it'll work when it won't (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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OK need some real help.
I brought a device from ebay and I cannot extract the key all I get is cc cc cc cc cc cc cc cc - cc cc cc cc cc cc cc cc for the key. The inquiry string works fine.
I have the correct SATA chip using port CC00 as I can dump benQ drives fine.
I have used dos version and all dvd32 versions, no joy.
I have done a loop back test in HyperTerminal and that is fine.
IRQ port is set correctly as I use the serial port for other devices fine.
I have tested the serial cable and even plugged in the device directly to the back of the com port.
I am doing the half way eject trick fine.
Wiring is fine and I have tried swapping Rx & Tx.
I then made my own device to eliminate the ebay one with MAX3232 and still no key just a load of Cs.
I have run out of things to try and about to give up unless anyone can help?
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Do you get anything back from the drive using RealTerm? Or is there no info at all coming from the drive?
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Nothing compleatly blank screen.
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Yes i have. I have two RS3232 Chips as i have two devices. I have atteched some pics. This is really bugging me as i have no clue what to try next.
http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screenyf5.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=devicevt0.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=setuptw8.jpg
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hello i have question to those wich have read their liteon key.
What mainborad do you have ? I ask because i bought socket a mainboard but it dont work with my via sata controller. Can you tell me about your comp config ? Mainborad cpu chipset ?
thx
Best regards
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Update: Moved from the 3.3V supply to 5v supply and am now getting full loopback. COM1 port is 100% working now. And i am 100% certain my device is working too. When i connect Rx & Tx to Liteon i still get all C's for the keys (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Compleatly run out of things do now.
(IMG:http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/314/loopbackst3.th.jpg)
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QUOTE(enviq @ Oct 11 2008, 07:35 PM)

hello i have question to those wich have read their liteon key.
What mainborad do you have ? I ask because i bought socket a mainboard but it dont work with my via sata controller. Can you tell me about your comp config ? Mainborad cpu chipset ?
thx
Best regards
Got my key and id string using an old socket 754 mobo with a via 8237r chipset using the following serial adapter off ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...52BSI%26otn%3D3
Daz.
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QUOTE(enviq @ Oct 11 2008, 07:35 PM)

hello i have question to those wich have read their liteon key.
What mainborad do you have ? I ask because i bought socket a mainboard but it dont work with my via sata controller. Can you tell me about your comp config ? Mainborad cpu chipset ?
thx
Best regards
I use a asrock motherboard socket a with onboard via sata controller no probs
Built my own serial adaptor using max232
This post has been edited by buddy6: Oct 11 2008, 08:16 PM
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Hi guys,
I'm fairly new to all of this, but have been learning a lot as I've gone along. I was having the 'seems to be NOT good DVD key!!!' error, so I tried troubleshooting my RS232 with Hyperterminal. Now, it connects, but when it echoes, it doesn't echo the actual character typed- rather, it echoes the same character every time, which is the Greek letter Delta (ie, a triangle). When I try in Realterm, both the RX and TX lights are on, and when I type with hex selected, it gives the correct hex equivalents of the characters I press.
Should I assume that it's working fine? The hyperterminal results make me a bit uncertain.
Thanks in advance!
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Hi Guys,
I am having a strange problem. It seems that some where during the process of dumping the keys, the Liteon drives will no longer close the tray automatically when I push it in.
MP3boy confirmed his Liteons do close the tray when pushed after he dumps the key..
So I am trying to figure out what I am doing that causes this.
Before I dump I get the drive in an open state. I do this by hitting eject to open the tray, then before the tray is completely open, I power down then push the tray 1/2 way closed.
I can only assume this is how I am messing it up the tray. Each time I have done it, the keys dump fine and on the first try.
But is it possible to get the key while the drive is in a closed state? By having the drive tray open, then pressing eject so it closes and cut the power before it closes all the way?
Has anyone else run into this.
Thanks
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This will allow you to grab the key and then insert it into another drive, giving Lite-On owners a way of hacking the system.
The Lite-On drive does NOT have a writable ROM therefore the drives themselves are not hackable.
ok im not reallt getting this? you can grab the key from a liteon but the drives themselves are not hackable?? i have a liteon dvd drive.. so basically i need a second drive or what is it? i'm not quite understanding this? plz advice.. thankx!
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QUOTE(yuvrajb @ Oct 13 2008, 09:47 AM)

This will allow you to grab the key and then insert it into another drive, giving Lite-On owners a way of hacking the system.
The Lite-On drive does NOT have a writable ROM therefore the drives themselves are not hackable.
ok im not reallt getting this? you can grab the key from a liteon but the drives themselves are not hackable?? i have a liteon dvd drive.. so basically i need a second drive or what is it? i'm not quite understanding this? plz advice.. thankx!
you need to get the key out of your lite-on and put it into another drive that you can flash if you go online then a benq drive is your choice but if you dont then any other drive will do
I have put a ms28 drive in mine
the lite-on drive can not be flashed at the moment because its not possible to dump all the firmware
to hack it , from what i have read you can erase it you can flash it maybe in time it can be done
read the topics on this subject its all explained
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QUOTE(calloused labia @ Oct 13 2008, 12:33 AM)

Hi Guys,
I am having a strange problem. It seems that some where during the process of dumping the keys, the Liteon drives will no longer close the tray automatically when I push it in.
MP3boy confirmed his Liteons do close the tray when pushed after he dumps the key..
So I am trying to figure out what I am doing that causes this.
Before I dump I get the drive in an open state. I do this by hitting eject to open the tray, then before the tray is completely open, I power down then push the tray 1/2 way closed.
I can only assume this is how I am messing it up the tray. Each time I have done it, the keys dump fine and on the first try.
But is it possible to get the key while the drive is in a closed state? By having the drive tray open, then pressing eject so it closes and cut the power before it closes all the way?
Has anyone else run into this.
Thanks
I get this with Lite-Ons. I open the tray. Then hit eject to close tray and kill power before tray is closed. Switch back on and dump the key. Often, the drive will fail to close, whether I hit the eject or push the front of the tray. They all open fine.
If powered off for a period, they come back to life and work normally again.
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QUOTE(XmodsUK @ Oct 13 2008, 06:32 AM)

I get this with Lite-Ons. I open the tray. Then hit eject to close tray and kill power before tray is closed. Switch back on and dump the key. Often, the drive will fail to close, whether I hit the eject or push the front of the tray. They all open fine.
If powered off for a period, they come back to life and work normally again.
Thanks.
Mine still fail to close by pressing the tray. I have had them un powered for over a few days and connected them to a connectivity kit and ejected a lot.
I am going to stop hitting eject to open then power off and push close 1/2 close before I flash.
Instead I will keep tray open press eject to CLOSE then power off before it closes all the way then flash.
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Actually I got another new arcade today and before I did any modding I plugged the Lite-on just the power, into the xecuter v1 connectivity kit. I hit eject nothing. I hit eject again, the tray opened, then I pushed it in and the tray did not close on its own.
So either I am getting a batch of wacky Liteons, or people are mistaken when they say the tray closes when pushed in, or the connectivity kit is causing the malfunction.
NOTE AFTER THE DRIVE IS PUT BACK INTO THE 360 it no longer closes tray when pushed.
This post has been edited by calloused labia: Oct 13 2008, 10:10 PM
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QUOTE(calloused labia @ Oct 13 2008, 10:08 PM)

Actually I got another new arcade today and before I did any modding I plugged the Lite-on just the power, into the xecuter v1 connectivity kit. I hit eject nothing. I hit eject again, the tray opened, then I pushed it in and the tray did not close on its own.
So either I am getting a batch of wacky Liteons, or people are mistaken when they say the tray closes when pushed in, or the connectivity kit is causing the malfunction.
NOTE AFTER THE DRIVE IS PUT BACK INTO THE 360 it no longer closes tray when pushed.
I'll have to try mine when I put it back in on the 19th Nov for NXE update.
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I noticed the Xecuter V3 Connectivity kit and the 360Xtractor are now both available and both are Lite-On ready. Anyone had a chance to try one or the other? Did they simplify the process much?
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As far as as I read those kits are exactly the same as what people can buy off ebay (RS232 assembly). It's just ready made so no soldering...
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Yeah, there just a conectivity kit with an onboard RS232 adapter. OK, so a few more nice features little features. If you don't have any of the seperat bits, they're probably worth the money.
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I'm pretty good at soldering but I can't read these schematics. Can anyone post a simple version? Thanks
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All I'm getting in Realterm are yellow zeroes with no echo. Like others I've seen through here when I'm in dos and try to run dvdkey 0170 It saves the Identify & Inquiry bins but gives the error for key as:
It Didn't Work, Sorry Sega: 50
Nothing Received from COM Port
My solder friend is coming back over later to try inverting the tx/rx points, but till then I have one more problem. No matter which method I try, Paperclip -or- Open Tray then close & remove power, tray stops then power backup -or- Power on the drive then Press the eject button - On the front of the Xbox 360, Remove the power again & Manually press the drive half-way in. The Drive always closes when power is given to console.
I do not have a connectivity kit so I'm wondering if I need that for its own power source to drive? All I do know is that whatever method I've tried the tray always goes back in.
Thx
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Please help! I`m trying for hours, but i just cant get the key.
I Build my own converter from scratch with a max3232. Loopback is fully
funktional, in realterm and with hyperterminal. But i get only CC CC CC..... as key.
Im sure my Converter works, but when i Solder it to the drive i dont get the "01010101"
with realterm. Here are my questions:
1.: Does the drive always give "01010101", no matter if the tray is open or closed?
2.: Is there any known source for working converters in Germany?
3.: Should i build up a new circuit even if loopback works?
Thanks in advance!
NINJAAAAAAAA!
This post has been edited by Lorschpriester: Oct 15 2008, 08:58 PM
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QUOTE(Glycem @ Oct 15 2008, 10:31 AM)

All I'm getting in Realterm are yellow zeroes with no echo. Like others I've seen through here when I'm in dos and try to run dvdkey 0170 It saves the Identify & Inquiry bins but gives the error for key as:
It Didn't Work, Sorry Sega: 50
Nothing Received from COM Port
My solder friend is coming back over later to try inverting the tx/rx points.
My friend came back over and inverted the tx & rx connections & same as before in Realterm he got just zeroes.
He was able to finally put drive in half tray mode and when it was 1/2 way out in Realterm it would give 01010101...
However, we still get the error as stated above in dvdkey 1.2 in dos. Tried also dvdkey 1.1 in dos w/out success. With dvdkey32 I got abunch of "C"'s for the cd key.
I'm at a total loss. I've reread through this forum and ppl with issues like mine I've tried there directions but still no success. Also, I noticed with most of them they had the connectivity kit v1, Is this something I need to have?
Thx
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QUOTE(ersatze @ Nov 10 2008, 04:04 PM)

ok. it seems that i suceedeed in repairing the board, but i think that the problem lies in how i half-open the lite on.i just cant seem to get it to STAY half-open - it always goes completely out or in - so can someon tell me exactly how to do it - using just the xbox's power (cuz i dont have the connectivity kit) - thnx!!!!!
This is the way I was able to keep the drive half open, I also did not use the connectivity kit.
"Turn on the Xbox with the power cable connected and the DVD drive closed. Then pull the power out(by pulling the power line out the DVD drive). Now with the Lite-on drive free of any cables, push the lever inside it to eject the drive manually. Plug in the power, SATA cable and serial adaptor and dump it using DVDkey. If either DVDkey32 or the 16 bit version fails, try the other with the above eject method."
This post has been edited by tonyintn: Nov 11 2008, 02:43 AM
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QUOTE(ersatze @ Nov 10 2008, 10:04 PM)

ok. it seems that i suceedeed in repairing the board, but i think that the problem lies in how i half-open the lite on.i just cant seem to get it to STAY half-open - it always goes completely out or in - so can someon tell me exactly how to do it - using just the xbox's power (cuz i dont have the connectivity kit) - thnx!!!!!
My set up using Xbox 360
If you have connectivity kit and added the TX and RX wires to the lead
Then you can do the same to the Xbox power lead just add the TX and RX wires to the empty holes
I use two 1.5 volt batteries connected in series to power the max3232 3 volts ,if not and its 5 volts just add three batteries together making 4.5 volts will be ok very easy way
1 connect sata lead to DVD rom drive connect rs232 TX, RX, and power
2 turn on Xbox (do not turn off again until finished)
3 open tray
4 close tray but just before it is closed pull out power lead from DVD drive to motherboard its easier to
Pull the plug out of the motherboard
5 pull out draw half way
6 push power plug back in mother board (notice Xbox light begins to flash)
7 boot into dos use doskey port no e.g. doskey ec00 (this is my port no)
Or boot into windows use doskey32 port no ---- 1 e.g. doskey32 ec00 1 (this is my port no and com 1)
This works for me I have used a 3.3 volt max 3232, and 5volt max232 works every time
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Hey guys, I`m using the Connectivity Kit 3 Pro version, but I`m not able to get the key.bin. I tried USB-COM and a serial cable to the real COM port, but neither works. It gets identify.bin and inquiry.bin, but for the key it shows only CC CC CC... I tried dvdkey32 in windows and dvdkey 16 in DOS, but neither works.
My solder is good, I tried the connection with an ohm meter. I also tried THIS method and the method described in the official Team Xecutor site. Basically the biggest difference is that in the first site the DVD`s power is cut while the tray is closing, while on the Team Xecutor site they say that you should just eject it and manually close it half-way while it is still powered.
Now I`m thinking maybe I should try the RS232-TL converter with 4 wires connected to the DVD, but I`m afraid to use iron again (almost bricked the DVD when connecting TxD and RxD).
Do you think maybe I can use the whole just next to the 3,3V source to stick a small wire or something like that?
(IMG:http://xs133.xs.to/xs133/08463/2vuj05h943.jpg.xs.jpg)
This post has been edited by Substance90: Nov 12 2008, 08:40 PM
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QUOTE(Substance90 @ Nov 12 2008, 01:38 PM)

Hey guys, I`m using the Connectivity Kit 3 Pro version, but I`m not able to get the key.bin. I tried USB-COM and a serial cable to the real COM port, but neither works. It gets identify.bin and inquiry.bin, but for the key it shows only CC CC CC... I tried dvdkey32 in windows and dvdkey 16 in DOS, but neither works.
My solder is good, I tried the connection with an ohm meter. I also tried
THIS method and the method described in the official Team Xecutor site. Basically the biggest difference is that in the first site the DVD`s power is cut while the tray is closing, while on the Team Xecutor site they say that you should just eject it and manually close it half-way while it is still powered.
Now I`m thinking maybe I should try the RS232-TL converter with 4 wires connected to the DVD, but I`m afraid to use iron again (almost bricked the DVD when connecting TxD and RxD).
Do you think maybe I can use the whole just next to the 3,3V source to stick a small wire or something like that?

Your problem might be the same I had when I was only getting CC CC CC...., some on here explained the manual was a bit wrong and told me to change the TxD and RxD wiring so it would be TxD to RxD and RxD to TxD not TxD to TxD and RxD to RxD. I think the problem is the different ypes of converters being used.
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QUOTE(tonyintn @ Nov 13 2008, 03:30 AM)

Your problem might be the same I had when I was only getting CC CC CC...., some on here explained the manual was a bit wrong and told me to change the TxD and RxD wiring so it would be TxD to RxD and RxD to TxD not TxD to TxD and RxD to RxD. I think the problem is the different ypes of converters being used.
Well that might be the case for the RS232 converter, but how can the wiring of the connectivity kit 3 be wrong? I still haven`t tried with a converter and 4 wires to the DVD mobo.
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uh, i faced alot of problems dumping key from my liteon, here is a little description
first thing i fucked up R707, accidentally tearing that apart, also i managed to fuck up R710 resistor lol
i couldnt get tray opened in half position it always kept closing and then i fucked up the hole beneath R707, so i had to use soldering on the other side of pcb, finally i found that connecting RX-RX tx-tx isnt logically, so i had to reverse them to be rx-tx tx-rx
i never got any result in RealTerm, just two zeros 00, actually loopback didnt work in HyperTerm also so i thought my max3232 is fucked up.
but finally things started to get right, i found that
to open tray half open, u have to disconnect dvdroms power cable off motherboard, while keeping the xbox turned on, because it sends close command on startup
the best way to achieve proper half tray open position is - turn on drive, eject it with eject button, cut off power to dvdrom, pull it halfway in, connect power to drive
u must connect wires from liteons pcb to max RX to TX and vice versa
if u fuckedup r707 or 708 - u can use holes below them, or on the opposite side, or there are plenty of points to connect to also
if u fuckedup r710 - its ok, u can still dump the key
and i succeeded under windows, with USB-Serial cable (COM1 didnt give me success)
i just kept trying for a very long time, and it came up
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My way of extracting the lite-on key
My Webpage
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Hi, I have read the entire thread and now got my hands on a lite on so wanted to try it. Got this adapter
http://cgi.ebay.com/...m...A1|240:1318
I solderd everything like it shuld and When I was redy for dumping the key I did as the wiki guide. But then something hapend. When I started the computer with the adapter in the comport it started to smell and I culd se somehing on the moterborad at the usb glowing. Shut it of and removed everything and now when I boot up the computer it get stuck on some usb error and the motherboard glows. What did I do wrong? And how could this hapend?
ragards /kg
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QUOTE(eriksson25 @ Nov 14 2008, 02:50 PM)

Hi, I have read the entire thread and now got my hands on a lite on so wanted to try it. Got this adapter
http://cgi.ebay.com/...m...A1|240:1318I solderd everything like it shuld and When I was redy for dumping the key I did as the wiki guide. But then something hapend. When I started the computer with the adapter in the comport it started to smell and I culd se somehing on the moterborad at the usb glowing. Shut it of and removed everything and now when I boot up the computer it get stuck on some usb error and the motherboard glows. What did I do wrong? And how could this hapend?
ragards /kg
sounds like you have solderd the leads on the wrong pins check the voltage connections
or got the leads mixed up
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QUOTE(eriksson25 @ Nov 14 2008, 03:50 PM)

the motherboard glows.
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QUOTE(Substance90 @ Nov 12 2008, 09:38 PM)

Hey guys, I`m using the Connectivity Kit 3 Pro version, but I`m not able to get the key.bin. I tried USB-COM and a serial cable to the real COM port, but neither works. It gets identify.bin and inquiry.bin, but for the key it shows only CC CC CC... I tried dvdkey32 in windows and dvdkey 16 in DOS, but neither works.
Anyone? Are there other people not being able to dump the key.bin using CK 3 Pro (or Lite)?
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QUOTE(buddy6 @ Nov 14 2008, 10:16 PM)

sounds like you have solderd the leads on the wrong pins check the voltage connections
or got the leads mixed up
It was right but it seems that it was something wrong on the motherbord. Well well it was a old motherboard anyway. But now I had to dig up a evan older one. And this one wount boot into dos from the usb memmoy. Any ide how to get this to work? I managed to get into dos with a dos cd but then it cant find the usb where I have the dvdkey. Please any help would be apricatad.
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I am still not able to do it, this gets me soo frustrated!
dvdkey16 says:
It didn`t work sorry, sega:54
Nothing received from COM port.
Does this mean that something with my serial cable/COM port might be wrong? Or maybe I am not able to put the drive in the right mode (the part where you have to close the tray and cut the power off)?
How can I test things in XP with Realterm? How does this application really work?
I really don`t know what to do anymore. There is some current leakage on my metal PC case (i can feel it with my hand) and on most of my attempts the dvd drive was touching the case, but I tried with space between them and there was no difference. Also maybe it is worth mentioning that while I do the process the CK3 Pro is hanging in the air from a molex cable.
This post has been edited by Substance90: Nov 17 2008, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE(Substance90 @ Nov 17 2008, 08:35 PM)

I am still not able to do it, this gets me soo frustrated!
dvdkey16 says:
It didn`t work sorry, sega:54
Nothing received from COM port.
Does this mean that something with my serial cable/COM port might be wrong? Or maybe I am not able to put the drive in the right mode (the part where you have to close the tray and cut the power off)?
How can I test things in XP with Realterm? How does this application really work?
I really don`t know what to do anymore. There is some current leakage on my metal PC case (i can feel it with my hand) and on most of my attempts the dvd drive was touching the case, but I tried with space between them and there was no difference. Also maybe it is worth mentioning that while I do the process the CK3 Pro is hanging in the air from a molex cable.
Come on guys! What`s with the totally not existing support for CK3? What did I buy this thing for?
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QUOTE(Substance90 @ Nov 21 2008, 03:34 PM)

Come on guys! What`s with the totally not existing support for CK3? What did I buy this thing for?
I followed this and it worked great:
http://team-xecuter....eon_windows.htm
In your previous pic you posted, you had two blue lines drawn in there. That's how I did mine. I found it easier to solder a small wire on each of the RxD and Txd spots. Then just stuck the other end of the wires in to the small holes next to the R707 and R708 areas. (I used the CK3 Light)
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Is it necessary to use the ground pad on the drive board?
Can you just use an alligator clip on the drive casing as a ground instead?
I have a few wires with clips already soldered to them so if I could just solder one to the RS-232 adapter
it would it would eliminate 1 solder for me on the drive. Which would be nice.
Thanks
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So I botched my soldering job on my lite-on. Do any of you guys know of another way to pull the key? Would anyone be willing to take my drive and send me the key/flash my samsung drive? Shoot me a PM!
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QUOTE(wobble @ Nov 21 2008, 05:22 PM)

I followed this and it worked great:
http://team-xecuter....eon_windows.htmIn your previous pic you posted, you had two blue lines drawn in there. That's how I did mine. I found it easier to solder a small wire on each of the RxD and Txd spots. Then just stuck the other end of the wires in to the small holes next to the R707 and R708 areas. (I used the CK3 Light)
But my R707 and R708 are connected to RxD and TxD, I checked with an ohm-meter.
Here you can see on this picture, it looks a bit messy, I had to replace a resistor after messing up a bit.

The problem is in dumping the key.bin. What did you exactly do, because I too followed this tutorial and it didn`t work. Do you cut the power to the DVD or simply push the tray in, while it`s on?
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eject drive, turn power to drive off, close drive half way, turn power on....the drive will stay half open.
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QUOTE(KarlosB @ Nov 22 2008, 12:42 PM)

eject drive, turn power to drive off, close drive half way, turn power on....the drive will stay half open.
It didn`t work this way, but it also didn`t work the other way, described on the CK3 website, where you have to just push the tray in a bit while it is running.
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QUOTE(podger @ Sep 9 2008, 03:34 PM)

Pl help with the following error...

I am new to xbox 360 modding and got stuck for the last 3 days...
Pl help... Every thing seems to be as per the instructions... But always get 00000... Even tried swapping tx and rx... No results...
Tried Realterm and found that there is a problem... But couldn't know the exact problem...
Is my RS3232 to TTL Adapter gone bad or my dvd drive?
Pl help... Thanks...
Aru.
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Same situation as Substance wrote above.

Tray won't stay half-open.
Tried paper clip method. Tried removing the plug from the mainboard while it closes after hitting eject - but in this case it just opens fully after plugging power back on.(I DON'T have connectivity kit - just using xbox360.
Also.
I didn't tested my RS232 dongle, but when I try to read, DVDKEY says "drive present". Does this means that connection works?
Unfortunately ( likely) because of the tray not half-open I get just 000000000000000000000 and "sorry. it didn't work". 
Any help greatly welcome. Any quick help will save my sanity.
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Update:
I changed dvdkey.exe to newest version (1.2).
I tried powering xbox360 on, eject button (ejected), eject button (closed), manually (paperclip method) pulled the tray half-open - noticed the light on xbox360 started to flashing rapidly, then tried and
error: sega 54,
inquiry and identify.bin saved OK, but no KEY. Just a message that "COM port seems to work anyways" or something like that".
I'll try to switch RX to TX, but I'm wondering...
Some guys can do it, some cannot. Some even can do it on one liteon but not on the other...
Is it possible that it is the power? I read tons od post around the web - someone wrote, that he couldn't get a key using 3,3V from liteon power connector, couldn't when using 2 x 1,5V batteries, but succeeded when added another one (total of 4.5Volt). My SP3232ECP (I'll kill (
)someone if it makes the difference - I ordered the one on Maxim 3232, but received this with manual for Maxim3232... ) has "3-5Volt" in datasheet, so 3,3V is even 0,3V more than minimum...
One more thing. I tried to connect it like this:
3232 dongle equipped with female 9-pin D-Sub ---> gender changer ---> rs232 cable --> COM port on PC.
and no message about "COM seems to be working anyways".
Then I connected it 3232donlge-->PC. With no cable. (got to remove screw-holders) and the message as written above.
In short manual for MAXIM 3232 which I received with my SP3232ECP dongle it says "connect through null-model rs232 cable" - I checked the connections inside the cable and it seems that my rs232 cable is the right one.
Neverthanless, no matter how I try to connect this - it fails... 
Is it for 100% confirmed that soldering only one bridge is enough? Because I'm out of ideas. So far 10 hours in preparing (reading), 5 hours in trying and no results. Really annoying...
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QUOTE(HUNTERXIII @ Nov 26 2008, 01:01 AM)

Pl help with the following error...

I am new to xbox 360 modding and got stuck for the last 3 days...
Pl help... Every thing seems to be as per the instructions... But always get 00000... Even tried swapping tx and rx... No results...
Tried Realterm and found that there is a problem... But couldn't know the exact problem...
Is my RS3232 to TTL Adapter gone bad or my dvd drive?
Pl help... Thanks...
Aru.
Come on people... Pl Help me... What does the "RED" Colored BREAK identifier explain?
Aru
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After Reading What i can in this thread. Is it possible to just use a Serial Plug with TX & RX wires to the liteon TX & RX, then use a ground and 3.3v elsewere 2 the liteon?
Thxs
Dogz
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QUOTE(DOGZ BOLLAX @ Nov 26 2008, 01:04 PM)

After Reading What i can in this thread. Is it possible to just use a Serial Plug with TX & RX wires to the liteon TX & RX, then use a ground and 3.3v elsewere 2 the liteon?
Thxs
Dogz
Not possible. RS232 from your serial plug outputs ones as +12V and zeroes as -12V levels. The Liteon uses 0v for a zero and 3.3V for a one.
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I've got my key. Finallty

Some conclusions:
1. Paperclip method doesn't work for me when cutting power when tray closes... but this works:
- power on xbox360
- eject tray
- close tray
- pull the power cable for dvd off the xbox 360 motherboard
- now use the paperclip to pull off the tray
- plug the power for dvd back into the motherboard
- start PC and read the key.
2. When using VIA 6421A sata cable can be plugged into liteon all the time 
3. Dongle build on Sipex SP3232ECP istead of Maxim 3232 works as well.
Just do NOT switch the Rx and Tx. I read so many posts here telling to switch it, that I did it when trying for the first time. In my case it should be exactly as on the picture. Tx-Tx, Rx-Rx, not Tx-Rx, Rx-Tx
I also had to connect it to a PC without a cable. Just stick the 3232 dongle into COM1 port. Using null-modem cable and gender-changer doesn't work - which is odd, because I see this method on some of the tutorial pics and I've got "connect the device through 9pin RS-232 null-modem cable" in the manual of... there you go. They sent my a manual for Maxim 3232 with dongle built on SP3232ECP. 
4. After hours of searching on the net I can share some advices based on other people posts:
if it doesn't work - try to:
- change the power. Some guys couldn't do it unless changing from 3.3V to 5V (of course if your 3232 dongle supports 5V ) or just using 3x AA 1.5V batteries which equals 4.5V.
- the COM port might be the problem. Some guys had to connect some points on the motherboard port COM in order to make it work - or just use another computer.
Hope it helps someone in the future.
Now I just have to learn what to do with a brand new (manuf. XI-2006) Samsung MS28 and "The End" 
(do I have to read it first or just take ixtreme1.4.bin from xbins and inject there a key and spoof info? )
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Has anyone tried the "rear window defogger repair kit" solution? This was how I used to "solder" the board when modding the original xbox, the liquid acts as a connection between the points and it always worked for me on the first xbox, just checking to see if anyone else has tried this before I do, thanks
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QUOTE(mrCBeezy @ Nov 28 2008, 09:05 PM)

Has anyone tried the "rear window defogger repair kit" solution? This was how I used to "solder" the board when modding the original xbox, the liquid acts as a connection between the points and it always worked for me on the first xbox, just checking to see if anyone else has tried this before I do, thanks
It's just conductive paint, has been mentioned in this thread already and yes, it does work when bridging R707.
There again, you can also strip the ends off a small length of 30awg kynar wire, poke one end in the via below R707 and tape the other end down hard on the Tx solder pad with a small piece of masking tape, that works too. (so does the traditional method, solder
)
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So if i'm getting this right, it's possible just to read they key, but not write a flashed fw? so are ppl just using this to use a different drive or something?
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I just purchased Samsung MS28 drive and the executer pro kit for the liteon with usb. i wonder if like the hitachi this will one day eventually be able to be flashed like all other drives, no matter how hard they may have been for the forst 3-6 months or so.
this will be my 1st liteon, not really looking forward to it, but was anyone?
looking at the into on the executor site i seem to just need to solder to bridge points together and no other soldering needed so thats a bit quicker i guess.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
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QUOTE(Kurt Hectic @ Nov 26 2008, 06:20 PM)

3. Dongle build on Sipex SP3232ECP istead of Maxim 3232 works as well.

Just do NOT switch the Rx and Tx. I read so many posts here telling to switch it, that I did it when trying for the first time. In my case it should be exactly as on the picture. Tx-Tx, Rx-Rx, not Tx-Rx, Rx-Tx
I also had to connect it to a PC without a cable. Just stick the 3232 dongle into COM1 port. Using null-modem cable and
gender-changer doesn't work - which is odd, because I see this method on some of the tutorial pics and I've got "connect the device through 9pin RS-232 null-modem cable" in the manual of... there you go. They sent my a manual for Maxim 3232 with dongle built on SP3232ECP.

My setup is with a 5 pin cable and a gender changer, can this be the reason, why it isn`t working?
On the other hand, I tried with CK3 Pro with a USB emulated COM port and it still didn`t work...
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@Substance90:
I own the CK3 Pro too. I'm having the same problem as you. I can get the inquiry.bin and identify.bin, but the key.bin is invalid. I tried the usb way.
I can't register @ team executer at this moment.
I followed the tut from executer, from the beginnig till the end. But with no result. My soldering is good. I didn't mess up anything. I cheked it with an DM.
I can't help you now but maybe we can help each other by trying things out?
Greetz 4matc.
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QUOTE(4matc @ Dec 1 2008, 08:48 AM)

@Substance90:
I own the CK3 Pro too. I'm having the same problem as you. I can get the inquiry.bin and identify.bin, but the key.bin is invalid. I tried the usb way.
I can't register @ team executer at this moment.
I followed the tut from executer, from the beginnig till the end. But with no result. My soldering is good. I didn't mess up anything. I cheked it with an DM.
I can't help you now but maybe we can help each other by trying things out?
Greetz 4matc.
Have you tried doing the loopback test with your serial hardware?
maybe you are just selecting the wrong port. or it could be the usb driver...
so you don't have a serial port?
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QUOTE(yaywoop @ Nov 30 2008, 11:30 PM)

Have you tried doing the loopback test with your serial hardware?
maybe you are just selecting the wrong port. or it could be the usb driver...
so you don't have a serial port?
Thanx for your reply. I've flashed a benq drive already. I'm using the same sata port as I did before; 9000
I've installed usb-drivers from team executer. I do have a serial port on the CK3 Pro, but I don't use it. So sorry íf it's a little bit off topic. But the main issue is that I can't read the key. Just like many of you.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/uhh.gif)
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QUOTE(4matc @ Dec 1 2008, 11:48 PM)

Thanx for your reply. I've flashed a benq drive already. I'm using the same sata port as I did before; 9000
I've installed usb-drivers from team executer. I do have a serial port on the CK3 Pro, but I don't use it. So sorry íf it's a little bit off topic. But the main issue is that I can't read the key. Just like many of you.

If you can't get the key but can get the inquiry.bin etc its probably the serial hardware (or drivers or software)
so have you tried doing a loopback test with hyperterm? http://zone.ni.com/d...a/tut/p/id/3450
this just tests that the serial is working. in your case you would have a wire from the Tx and Rx pins on the CK3, the wires that plug into the dvd drive.
and i was talking about the serial port not the SATA port
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QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 1 2008, 01:56 PM)

If you can't get the key but can get the inquiry.bin etc its probably the serial hardware (or drivers or software)
so have you tried doing a loopback test with hyperterm?
http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/tut/p/id/3450this just tests that the serial is working. in your case you would have a wire from the Tx and Rx pins on the CK3, the wires that plug into the dvd drive.
and i was talking about the serial port not the SATA port
Is it possible to test the USB as well with hyperterm? Tutorial from executer says: If you are using the CK3 Pro you will need to install the USB drivers. This will give the CK3 Pro a COM port number (usually COM Port 3). Once installed connect the CK3 Pro to your PC via the provided USB cable.
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QUOTE(4matc @ Dec 2 2008, 09:19 PM)

Is it possible to test the USB as well with hyperterm? Tutorial from executer says: If you are using the CK3 Pro you will need to install the USB drivers. This will give the CK3 Pro a COM port number (usually COM Port 3). Once installed connect the CK3 Pro to your PC via the provided USB cable.
yes if you have installed the driver properly, windows should recognize it as a com port, so hyperterm should work with it
have you tried using other com port numbers?
and do you have an actual com port? if so use that.
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QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 2 2008, 11:38 AM)

yes if you have installed the driver properly, windows should recognize it as a com port, so hyperterm should work with it
have you tried using other com port numbers?
and do you have an actual com port? if so use that.
In devicemanager my usb connection is simulated in a com 15 port.
I will try this tonight. Do I need to connect my lite on dvd during the test or is connection with CK3 pro ok?
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well first try reading the key again, but with com port 15.
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QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 2 2008, 02:31 PM)

well first try reading the key again, but with com port 15.
Hooray i've dunped my key from my lite on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
The problem is in the tutorial from team executer (I'll let them know).
It says:
7. Before you dump the key you must eject the Liteon tray by pressing eject on the CK3. Then manually push the tray half way in - do not press eject or close the tray all the way in. Now open a command prompt (click Start > Run > type "CMD" (without the quotes) and press enter. Now type cd c:\DVDKey32_04_portio32 and this will put you into the DVDKey32 directory. Type dvdkey32 <io port> <com port> (The example uses IO port 9000 and COM Port 3 so we type dvdkey32 9000 3. (see Image 9).
It has to be:
Before you dump the key you must eject the Liteon tray by pressing eject on the CK3.
Turn on your CK3 pro/lite. You do have to press eject untill the tray will be closed. Turn the CK3 off when the tray is halfway. Then turn CK3 on en your lite on is readable. Your tray must stay half opened.
Now open a command prompt (click Start > Run > type "CMD" (without the quotes) and press enter. Now type cd c:\DVDKey32_04_portio32 and this will put you into the DVDKey32 directory. Type dvdkey32 <io port> <com port> (The example uses IO port 9000 and COM Port 3 so we type dvdkey32 9000 3. (see Image 9). Repeat this procedure if your key dump fails.
Thanx 4 your help.
4matc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
This post has been edited by 4matc: Dec 3 2008, 11:21 AM
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I maked a rs232 converter following the schematics on this forum but i can't find max3232 in the store, only max232. Can I use it ?? Thanks
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QUOTE(defrag86 @ Dec 3 2008, 11:55 PM)

I maked a rs232 converter following the schematics on this forum but i can't find max3232 in the store, only max232. Can I use it ?? Thanks
Yes, just supply it 5v and not 3.3v, see http://forums.xbox-s...o...59565&st=60
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QUOTE(neocon @ Dec 3 2008, 03:44 PM)

Yes, just supply it 5v and not 3.3v, see
http://forums.xbox-s...o...59565&st=60
Ah ok! But in the tread you linked me they say of solder the 3.3v wire (I think the wire with the supply voltage) to the V5 pad of the image not to solder it with a 5v wire...
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QUOTE(defrag86 @ Dec 4 2008, 02:57 AM)

Ah ok! But in the tread you linked me they say of solder the 3.3v wire (I think the wire with the supply voltage) to the V5 pad of the image not to solder it with a 5v wire...

the 5V pad is just to the right of the 3V pad. see this image if your not sure http://i197.photobuc...oop/360/sch.png
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QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 3 2008, 05:00 PM)

the 5V pad is just to the right of the 3V pad. see this image if your not sure
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/yaywoop/360/sch.png
Thanks! I think of supply the converter from the psu of my computer because I'm not a good solderer
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QUOTE(4matc @ Dec 3 2008, 12:20 PM)

Hooray i've dunped my key from my lite on.
Hey, I tried this a LOT of times, because I knew the xecutor tutorial was wrong, but still didn`t get the key. :-\
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hi.
I tried to read my dvd key today and few days in back and.. i have not idea what is wrong. I know my com port/adapter is ok because I tried echo test and it works. When it is connected to lite on it send me 00 when I turn it on and off so my soldering is ok. I have VT6421 PCI card and I've flashed many drives without any problems. But if I try read the liteon it still give me CC in key (inqury etc is ok!).. Of course tray is in half open position when I try to read it. I know this is popular problem but everyone said check soldering etc.. I'm good in hardware and I know my soldering is ok.. I tried to reverse TX with RX and no succes.I aslo have Maximus Reader and dvdkey under dos and still no key. So where could be my problem?
If anyone is able to help, please hit me back.
Regards, Sowa
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You DO need to switch tx / rx, as in, tx from LiteON to receive (rx) on RS232... How else would you expect it to work?
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Thanks podger for all the messages... Finally retrieved the key...
I have learned a valuable lesson... In scene, dont expect people to spoon feed...
Learning happens by way of experimenting...
Thanks to all for the posts in this thread...
Aru.
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QUOTE(HUNTERXIII @ Dec 9 2008, 09:54 AM)

Thanks podger for all the messages... Finally retrieved the key...
I have learned a valuable lesson... In scene, dont expect people to spoon feed...
Learning happens by way of experimenting...
Thanks to all for the posts in this thread...
Aru.
So how did you do it?
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Can someone help me I have done a few of these drives before not for a while though when I go and put dvdkey 8800 is brings up "Problems with SATA Comunication, Wrong Port????"
I have checked the port with iprep and it shows 8800 all the other liteons I have done where using this port so I don't know why its not working.
I have checked my solder points and they are correct
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QUOTE(HUNTERXIII @ Dec 9 2008, 07:54 AM)

Thanks podger for all the messages... Finally retrieved the key...
I have learned a valuable lesson... In scene, dont expect people to spoon feed...
Learning happens by way of experimenting...
Thanks to all for the posts in this thread...
Aru.
Legend.
We dont mind helping but you then we learn more by trying, probing and discussing!
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Hello every one , is via vt8237 on-board sata chipset suitable for key liteon retrieve
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Why not wait till the 25th Dec? iXtreme 1.5 is out and a method for flashing LiteOn drives, no soldering, no drive swapping. Like any Samsung or BenQ drive. look on IRC for more info if needed.
I was doin liteon drives but now turning people away, coz if they wait a week they can save £35 as no need for a new drive.
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i want to use a screwdriver on tx.
but:

can i also use numbero 2???
number 2 is not magnetic, i want to know if number 2 is a conductor and if i can also use him.
so and what is the distance between the islands at r707.
thnx in advance!
sorry for ma english, im dutch.
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It will probably conduct but isn't that to big ?
Good luck, since I don't any luck with the dutch lite on drives
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gehehe, yea he is to big. but i have a little one here too.
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Hey, I`m trying to dump the key now with a VIA 6421 card, CK 3 Pro and CK3 Tool 1.2.3 with a USB-COM cable. I`ve got the right ports and everything, but I always get CC CC CCs for my key. How do I check if it is in closed mode? I don`t know what to do in Realterm.
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QUOTE(Substance90 @ Dec 18 2008, 10:41 PM)

Hey, I`m trying to dump the key now with a VIA 6421 card, CK 3 Pro and CK3 Tool 1.2.3 with a USB-COM cable. I`ve got the right ports and everything, but I always get CC CC CCs for my key. How do I check if it is in closed mode? I don`t know what to do in Realterm.
Just close tray when drive its powered on and after open manualy with small screwdriver half way.
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For a several weeks now I've tried dumping the key from my lite-on drive.
First I've used homemade key extractor using resistors and transistors ( not max232 or 3232 chip )
After that I've tried making max232 based convertor.
And after that a friend made me a good working max3232 convertor.
With all f these I've recieved only:
It didn't work, sorry sega: 54
Nothing Recieved on COM port
This week I've recieved a CK3 Lite without a probe ( R707 and R708 are reconnected ).
After exstensive tryouts the same status was recieved, exept some times I was able to get: COM port seems anyway to work, but still 000000000 for key.
After some reading I've see tuts for using RealTerm. So I've tried it and was very surprised...
First I was geting only 000000 all along with drive just hooked up and turned on.
After some playing with configuring the program and turning on the drive, a was able to get a mixed signal of 0 F FC E FE 8 etc.
After some more playing with open / close dvd tray and turn off / on drive it displayed a secuence of 010101 for some time and that stopped. I've managed to do that several times, but everytime it happend when doing different things with the drive.
I have a strong feeling that the ck3 isn't working right because after checking with multimeter I wasn't able to get constant signal from RX or TX... Once there is only signal from RX or TX, sometimes from both. The weird part is that when I am using different ground poing it gives me different signal value ( if I use the ground point on the dvd drive, I usualy don't get any signal from TX or RX, but If I use the ground from the rs232 cable it gives me 8 volts, if I use the PC case as ground, I get 3.3 volts at Tx only. but after a while the singals stops and there is only signal at the R707 point it self. )
I've checked the soldered r707 and r708 but nothing is wrong with them
And after this very wong post, I need to know if there is a way to properly test the CK3 or if someone knows from where does this strange comport status come...
edit: I forgot to mension that the: COM port seems anyway to work status I recieve when I close the drive with the eject button from the ck3 and while it closes I turn of the CK3 itself. This is the only way I recieve this status. All other ways ( and i've tried about 20 ) always give sega 54 and Nothing recieved on com port.
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Finally I've dumped the key from two lite-on drives with no problem and with no multiple types of keys.
The problem was at two places:
1. The CK3 Lite isn't working properly ( it recieves signal only from RX but not from TX )
2. The reconnection of RX and TX traces wasn't properly done.
And to add this important thing 
There is no need to buy a Probe, cause it is enough to hook up a wire to the TX ( only ) comming from the CK3 or a RS232 to TTL ( which I've used / homemade ) and put it directly in the TX hole. Just make sure that RealTerm gives you the right status ( 01010101... ) and everything will work.
P.S. You must have 3.3V comming from the RS232 convertor on the TX, a the samo voltage comming from the TX hole.
P.S.2. I've Unlocked the drive with turning on the CK3, opening the drive tray, turning off the CK3 ( the drive itself ), pushing manualy the tray half way in ( approximately ) and turning it on from the CK3 with Dvdkey 1.2 ( windows programs and dosfalsh16 didnt'work for dumping, but for flashing everything works fine, but iprep 8 is the best
)
Edit: I have 2 com ports on my motherboard, so I've desabled my second port from the BIOS and made the first one to be in Auto mode.