Post by: RoboChicken on September 30, 2007, 09:22:00 PM
2. Warm up your heat gun and heat up only the area you need to solder too.
3. Make one nice clean cut across
4. Start flicking off pieces of the glue with an exacto knife
Steps 3 and 4 is where you can really screw up. Too much heat and you could fry your board. Too little heat and you'll rip your traces off.
5. Lightly scrape your traces one by one. This removes enamel and remaining glue. Scrape till it's a bit shiny.
6. Cover your traces with a small amount of liquid flux
7. Apply solder:
(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0001.JPG)
8. Solder your wires to the board:
(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0002.JPG)
9. Mount your chip and solder the wires to the chip:
(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0004.JPG)
10. Flash like your doing a 78
11. Disconnect chip, snip tips, cover with electrical tape and save for later uprades:
(IMG:http://www.sdmods.com/images/79FK/IMG_0006.JPG)
Post by: Skyzo on October 01, 2007, 02:07:00 AM
From my own experience, I find removing the eproxy covering the left side of the TSOP chip (next to the soldering area) would later help test for continuity from the TSOP chip legs to the passkey. I know it takes extra effort but it's a sure way to test if your soldering job was done properly. Also, if you're worry about melting/overheating the board or close by components, just coverup the board with tin foil exposing just the TSOP chip. It worked great for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Post by: RoboChicken on October 01, 2007, 09:12:00 AM
QUOTE(Skyzo @ Oct 1 2007, 01:07 AM) 
Nice little tutorial, RoboChicken.
From my own experience, I find removing the eproxy covering the left side of the TSOP chip (next to the soldering area) would later help test for continuity from the TSOP chip legs to the passkey. I know it takes extra effort but it's a sure way to test if your soldering job was done properly. Also, if you're worry about melting/overheating the board or close by components, just coverup the board with tin foil exposing just the TSOP chip. It worked great for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Foil is a great idea thanks for the tip! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Post by: Ray2Kay on October 03, 2007, 10:26:00 PM
Post by: RoboChicken on October 04, 2007, 11:56:00 AM
Yeah, I just can't stay away (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) this stuff is too much fun!
You should take a crack at a 79 - not as hard as a PS2, but you definitely have to be careful
This post has been edited by RoboChicken: Oct 4 2007, 06:57 PM
Post by: Ray2Kay on October 05, 2007, 05:01:00 PM
Post by: Exobex on October 12, 2007, 03:43:00 PM
(IMG:http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/300/n13ar.jpg)
Bought it on special offer a few weeks back - twenty quid! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
(I wouldn't use it for the soldering though - I use an Antex TC50SD for that!)
This post has been edited by Exobex: Oct 12 2007, 10:44 PM
Post by: caster420 on October 12, 2007, 03:51:00 PM
Caster.
Post by: RoboChicken on October 12, 2007, 04:04:00 PM
This post has been edited by RoboChicken: Oct 12 2007, 11:06 PM
Post by: caster420 on October 12, 2007, 04:15:00 PM
QUOTE(RoboChicken @ Oct 12 2007, 06:04 PM)
I must get me one of those pens! So much safer than my 6" diameter heatgun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) . Is it blowing hot air or flames? Looks like a 70W goes up to 450C. Is that sufficient enough and are these pens adjustable?
It blows hot air when using that tip. Mine works well and it is adjustable. I have a weller pyropen. Here is what it states...
"Manually ignited butane gas operated, soldering iron with solder, hot blow and blow torch functions. The tool has a rapid heat up time and duration of operation from one filling of approx. 3 hours. It is temperature variable between 350°C to 500°C when used as a soldering iron and up to 650°C when used as a hot air blower and 1300°C when used as a blow torch."
Caster.
NOTE: AS EXOBEX STATED, DO NOT USE THESE FOR SOLDERING ON ANY XBOX COMPONENTS. BUY AN ACTUAL SOLDERING IRON!!!!
This post has been edited by caster420: Oct 12 2007, 11:25 PM
Post by: VanydotK on October 14, 2007, 03:21:00 AM
Post by: foaley77 on October 14, 2007, 06:13:00 AM
Post by: BenieUK on October 14, 2007, 07:39:00 AM
QUOTE
I'd recommend using a gas powered soldering iron with a hot air tip, rather than a full-blown hot air gun. This is what I use:-
Thanks for the tip, worked a treat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Still awaiting for my 30awg before i can try the soldering part (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
Post by: caster420 on October 14, 2007, 08:44:00 AM
QUOTE(VanydotK @ Oct 14 2007, 05:21 AM)
Do you guys think that there will be a software flash solution sometime in the future or is that out of the quesiton
Out of the question...
Caster.
Post by: sanj on October 14, 2007, 10:13:00 AM
QUOTE(Exobex @ Oct 12 2007, 10:43 PM)
I'd recommend using a gas powered soldering iron with a hot air tip, rather than a full-blown hot air gun. This is what I use:-
(IMG:http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/300/n13ar.jpg)
Bought it on special offer a few weeks back - twenty quid! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
(I wouldn't use it for the soldering though - I use an Antex TC50SD for that!)
I got the same gas powered soldering iron(from maplin's like yourself for £20) and the 79fl epoxy is a piece of piss to remove,much more control over the area you want to heat up,best thing i've bought in ages.