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Ok, I know there are plenty of Hitachi 360 owners out there that are pulling their hair out because of certain backups giving the "open tray" message, yet your fellow samsung mates are having no problems with the same games and dont they like to rub your face in it!
Well, ive been working on a fix to this, the method is very similar to JayQues elastic band trick. Which i have tried with great results too, the same infact, but i know people who seem to be struggling to get the band the right size and especially for myself had problems with the tray opening fully or not at all. For samsung users I would definately recommend JayQues method though, the sammy crew seem to be having great results with it and JayQue has mentioned the setup inside the DVD drive is different to the Hitachi, as he has been working on the Samsungs for his trick. So props to JayQue and his idea which give me this method and I can only recommend trying this on Hitachi drives at the moment.
First things first, I can not and will not be held responsible for any damage caused to your DVD drive or Xbox 360, if you dont feel confident enough doing this or even dont beleive it works then DO NOT TRY IT!
I can only say I have tried this on 2 Hitachi drives with superb results, both drives are 47DJ versions, running Opa extreme v2.1 7in1, ive not had the time to work on others yet, but im hoping the people may post results if they are willing to try it out. Ive tested many a problem backup with this, which i know work absolutely fine on Samsungs yet on the Hitachi just give the "open tray" error, or the intermitent boot, which may boot once out of five attempts.
Ok, im gonna try and keep this as short as possible and may make a proper tut in the future but wanna see if other Hitachi owners get good results.This will be wrote for those who already know there way in and aorund the 360, so im not gonna hold your hand on this one! and i shouldnt have to tell you to turn off your 360 before trying this.....ok so i have!
Open the Hitachi 360 DVD drive, carefully slide the laser to the back, away from the centre spindle, just to give yourself more room to work with, ok your gonna need a peice of 1mm thick plastic cut into a 3mm x 3mm square, or there abouts, i just took a piece from a dvd case,you could use anything really (within reason) , i even used a piece of rubber at first, just make sure its about 1mm thick.
The plastic piece will be being stuck onto the laser housing so that it press the switch near the spindle. Im guessing the switch has something to do with the laser registration as it will always press this at the start of reading the disc, it also needs to be pressed so that the tray will eject, it must be a way of telling the drive the laser is in a safe place to slide the tray out, anyway, that is by the by. I used double sided tape to stick it on, maybe this can be glued on, but this tape seems to be doing a great job.
Ive used thumbnails guys so just click for bigger pics
(IMG:http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4016/1pn8.th.jpg)(IMG:http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/7251/2pv5.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9697/3cu4.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4079/4mj6.th.jpg)
Ok, this should give you the general idea, give it a try, dont worry about the switch being pressed in too much now, as soon as the switch is touched the laser moves straight back out and reads the disc, similar as i said with JayQues method, but the band would restrict the laser moving in that bit further. Maybe this can be implented into firmware, i dont know its not my forte' but if the laser can be told to read just that bit further into the disc on boot up, i think it may just work.
Please could anyone post results if they try it, ive had brilliant results from this and its really quite a simple mod, not one open tray message since! Ive even had good results with cheaper media, I can only recommend the usual Pioneer 111d and verbs for backups though, they have always been the best.
This post has been edited by turbodanny: Sep 28 2006, 12:45 AM
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Awesome tutorial, took the time to write that up, take the pics, and edit them!
Should help some people with that Open Tray.
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Thanks textbook, always the Gent! I know i may be new to posting on here but have been on the forums and XBS for many years, the best site for all the tuts and help you need, done loads of work on xbox's and quite a few 360s and i dont even own one yet
soon hopefully!! just wanted to give a bit back, I owe a lot to you guys.
Thanks, Danny
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I tried this yesterday and it worked right away. Discs that I never could get to boot before booted right up, even after playing for a while. No more open tray, im so happy. Finally my Hitachi isn't a piece-of-shit-drive in my eyes

For plastic i just used one tiny bit of the discs that are empty (no foil) and laying at the bottom/top when you buy a bundle of discs. If it doesn't work with one layer of discpiece, try two.
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Great news Cerath, glad it worked for you! Thanks for posting your result.
I would still only recommend 1mm thick plastic, or similar material, any thicker may cause problems, especially with originals.
You see, on original games the DVD seems to have code wrote closer to the centre of the disc, 1mm different from backups infact, hense the 1mm piece of plastic. Im not sure why the backups leave a 1mm space at the beggining of the disc, Im thinking this is why some backups have problems booting up, It may not explain why some work fine though. But definatley something to look into and Im sure JayQue, who devised the elastic band trick noticed this and gave him his idea.
I might post some piccys with measurements in a bit to show the difference between the original and backup.
Its 15mm from the edge of the centre circle to where the code starts on an original and 16mm on a backup.
As ive said before maybe this can be implented in a firmware, or some kind of burning trick, I wouldnt know where to start trying to code any of that myself.
Great that it worked though, a few more people with good results and hopefully a tut for in the archive, gonna work with JayQue on these fixes and write a Samsung/Hitachi fix, if all goes to plan.
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Have the same prob get open tray on my TS ms25, but only on backups that i burned recently, the ones that i backed up before still boot fine, dont understand why is that. can any1 post a link to JayQues elastic band trick would be great. THX
This post has been edited by bmf293: Sep 28 2006, 09:39 PM
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I have Unrecognized disc error on all my backups. Should I try this before the POT tweak? Yes using DVD-ROM type with Verbatims/Fuji's on a known good burner.
This post has been edited by stpfarms: Oct 2 2006, 03:07 PM
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:BOWDOWN:
I have been pulling my hair out for days wondering why my backup wouldn't play when I did everything precisely! This trick fixed my Hitachi 59DJ perfectly!
Many thanks to turbodanny and Jayqu3! You're my heros for the day!
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i dont need to use this but if i one day do, i'll know who to thank
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It's simply amazing when a small little 'hack' like this works wonders! All my backups work fine now... I've had soooooo many problems with the 'Open Tray' message...... I had kept all of my (what I thought were) coasters, and I tried to play them after and it worked fine!
Thanks a lot for this! Would have wasted more money on fake 'coasters' if it weren't for you :-)
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nice trick....i had the "open tray" errors alot but i used the pot tweak now have no probs with back ups. but nice to know there is another method for anyone afraid of "turning that screw"
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Didnt work for me...
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QUOTE(ipzfinest @ Oct 28 2006, 12:36 AM)

Didnt work for me...

try 2 layers of dvd! ive done 2
one only needed a single layer but the second i did needed 2 layers!!
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Opened the dvd drive and found that switch.Looks quite easy to do.
It's a great tutorial.Thank you.
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Works perfectly on my 47DJ, 1mm thick plastic from DVD case, no more open tray messages
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Chalk up another one for a no-go.
I tried everything - 1 and 2 layers of dvd spindle plastic. Then I tried a rubber band, 1, 2, 3, and 4 layers of that. On the 4th layer of rubber, it would no longer read my "good" backup, and started making a nasty noise. Killed power, pulled all the rubber off, works just as it did before, so at least I didn't break anything.
The one working backup I have is Call of Duty 2. The two others I have which aren't working are Need for Speed Most Wanted and Over G Fighters. It may be worth noting that the dye on the working copy of CoD2 only has one thin band toward the center of the disk, while other two which don't work have 2 different shades of rings toward the center (not including the shade which covers most of the disc). Maybe it has to do with how much data is on the disc and how it fills up the space as its burned?
I also noticed that the ISO images of CoD2 and NFSMW are the exact same file size. Both of these I ripped myself, swapping out disc's with Saving Private Ryan (heard that's about as full of a DVD-9 you'll find). Over G Fighters I downloaded because the copy I have is damaged. I'm using Verbatim media, Lite-On 160P6S burner and have a Hitachi 59DJ.
If anyone else has suggestions, I'd be willing to try just about anything.
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That sucks azz...
I had no luck with the plastic & dont think I'll bother with band after Carter's tale.
But wot is "swapping out disc's"?
Is this a boot method?
I also tried the soft reset via plug & charge, no joy.
_.-:\'| (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |'/:-._
Get me...
This post has been edited by ipzfinest: Oct 31 2006, 12:07 AM
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QUOTE(cartervt2k @ Oct 30 2006, 05:13 PM)

The one working backup I have is Call of Duty 2. The two others I have which aren't working are Need for Speed Most Wanted and Over G Fighters. It may be worth noting that the dye on the working copy of CoD2 only has one thin band toward the center of the disk, while other two which don't work have 2 different shades of rings toward the center (not including the shade which covers most of the disc). Maybe it has to do with how much data is on the disc and how it fills up the space as its burned?
You need to reburn the discs, if the shading cover changes near the start of the disc from the hub outwards,
then you are having buffer problems or speed problems.
If burning at 2.4x, try a faster speed 4x.
If burning at 4x, try at a slower speed 2.4x
Change type of burner or type of media.
Don't run any tasks or move the mouse during the burn progress.
The shading of the burned disc should be the same from the center hub and should stop just before the end of
the disc, if it changes color just a bit then your laser is stopping and starting again due to poor media,
poor burner, or buffer-under-runs.
Discs with two-tone burn colors near the center will very rarely work or boot correctly, and should just
be throwed in the trash or used as coffee/beer coasters on your table.
This post has been edited by garyopa: Oct 31 2006, 12:58 AM
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First off, I was wrong - everything works fine now. The problem was not with the drive fix but that I was trying to play coasters. Gary (maybe we should just start calling you "Daddy" from here on out), thanks for all the help. I cranked up the burn speed from 2.4x to 4x, left my computer alone while burning (I also shut down as many applications as I can, beforehand), and it seems to be burning a lot more reliably now. I don't know what it was that did it, but I'm almost out of media and don't want to find out. Also, I can say that the hitachi drive fix DEFINITELY works. Just about all my games would play about 50% of the time until I did the fix, now they work 100% from the dash or system boot.
One interesting thing, is that before I was certain the copies I had were coasters, I tried Xtreme 2.3, and it didn't seem to boot the one good backup that I had (Call of Duty 2). That was before I did the drive fix, however, and I only tried to boot it from the dash. Up until that point, I was able to boot CoD2 on version 2.1 without the drive fix from the dash, though it might have just been coincidental that it worked every time I happened to try it. I didn't try a soft boot from the controller to rule out the fact that the firmware wasn't working and not that it only needed the drive fix to work. I'll give it another shot with v2.3 in the next day or two and let you know what I find. Thanks for the help.
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i tired tht tray fix 20mins ago it only played my working copywhich i burned off well and it works fine all time test drive and now im gonna try tray fix tomoz or sumat coz when i look at my other discs that dont play the shades on disc dither from the one working which is all one shade lol.
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Just gave this a try on my 47dj and tried my 2 duff backups and they both work great now,great work guys
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will this fix the "put disc in an xbox 360 console" error?
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thanks for the replies chaps, not been on here for a while to check on the thread, nice to see the trick is doing the job. Ive flashed about another five or six Hitchatis since my last post, I always test them with certain problem backups and they have all needed the fix, no matter which version of Hitachi.
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is there a trick to close the hitachi drive?
i open my drive and do that mod. when i close the top case of the dvd rom my rom dont run. only a bad noise a and disc cant move.
i think the bottom holder blocks the dvd. can anyone help me, to close my drive?
This post has been edited by heisert: Nov 20 2006, 04:36 PM
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excellent, just had one brought back to me with this problem, cut up my game lyalty card lol. glues one piece on, no go.... a 2nd piece and it worked perfectly..... put the case back together and tried again, it didnt work first time, but did the second.... had about a 1 in 6 failure rate, could probably have been fixed with another bit of card.... thanks alot you saved me cash
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will this fix the white screen that thell you to insert an xbox 360 game? and to inject the drive.
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QUOTE(garyopa @ Oct 30 2006, 03:28 PM)

You need to reburn the discs, if the shading cover changes near the start of the disc from the hub outwards,
then you are having buffer problems or speed problems.
If burning at 2.4x, try a faster speed 4x.
If burning at 4x, try at a slower speed 2.4x
Change type of burner or type of media.
Don't run any tasks or move the mouse during the burn progress.
The shading of the burned disc should be the same from the center hub and should stop just before the end of
the disc, if it changes color just a bit then your laser is stopping and starting again due to poor media,
poor burner, or buffer-under-runs.
Discs with two-tone burn colors near the center will very rarely work or boot correctly, and should just
be throwed in the trash or used as coffee/beer coasters on your table.
this is exactly why MOST open tray errors are happening. ESPECIALLY if you are using a setup that is recommended for burning.. 111d and verbatim's
Thing is... this happens to anyone.. and alot do not figure this out.? first thing I did when I got this error was look at the bottom of the disk and saw the 2 tone, then realizing I needed to reboot pc. fixed it of course.
I wonder how many people this has actually helped? I bet it is 90% of them. Good job Gary hopefully alot see this.
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Thanks this worked great for me it used to take about 6-10 try's b4 my backups would boot but now they all boot on the first or second try
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i got this one going after using a bit of cd spindle plastic.. coaster now boot fine.. and i was justttttt about to do the pot adjust.. no need now i guess. i got it working on fuji dl media as well as verbatium
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I need help on this one please. Just flashed an Hitachi 47DH with Maximus-Garyopa_XTRM-HITACHI_v2_3_Stealth_Rev2 but I got the "Open Tray" error each time I'm trying to run my backups. I know those are good cause they work 100% with my 46D and another Samsung my friend's got. I've tried the laser calibration thing to 2.9K and tried this fix with one and two DVD covers platic pieces and still got the "Open Tray" error. Anyone could help ?
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Wow just wanted to say thank you personaly to you.
it Worked like a charm and A few coasters that I had laying around booted up on the first shot ... guess i will be a nice guy and Give the ones that I thought didnt Work to a friend... since they are no longer coasters lol >.
thanks alot again ..
Also I know this isnt the thread maybe ... but is there anything for HItachi like there is With the samsung drives to force the faster speeds ???
thanks again that trick worked wonders..
oh yeah just wanted to add I tried the first time and it Didnt Work... then I used the black plastic from an older Dvd case and it worked Perfect ...
now I just have to firgure out how the hell im going to be able to get this super glue off My fingers lol hahaha
thanks again
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Could some wonderful mate please send a poor soul the link to JayQues's elastic band trick. I cannot seem to find it anywhere!
Thank you in advance!
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QUOTE(nicklh @ Dec 4 2006, 07:03 PM)

Could some wonderful mate please send a poor soul the link to JayQues's elastic band trick. I cannot seem to find it anywhere!
Thank you in advance!
Well I too could not find the ACTUAL POST of JayQues rubberband mod (and I remember it too)
Anyway a few searches on google shows probably alot more than his post anyway..
RUBBER BAND MOD LINK #1
RUBBER BAND MOD LINK #2
RUBBWE BAND MOD LINK #3 - YOUTUBE VIDEO - little dark not the greatest
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This also didn't work for me. At first i tried the foam 2 sided tape with a piece of the clear cd at the bottom of the spindle, didn't work. tried the double sided tape with a layer of dvd case, no go. just read unreadable disc comes up faster. Tried 2 pieces of foam tape with a piece of clear cd, no go. tried a piece of foam tape with just a piece of paper on the other side didn't work any better. tried layers of tiny pieces of electrical tape 2,3,4,5,6 i ended up going with 3 layers and it works a little better, still takes 6+ tries if it does load the game, 1 backup will work every try, marvel ultimate alliance 1st or 2nd try every time (except for when i had 2 layers of tape then it wouldn't read) but it is a memorex all others except 1 are verbatims (the other memorex game has problems loading) these backups were done on a 111d w clone cd and all work 1st try on samsungs and till about 4 days ago always booted on this hitachi 1st shot. any ideas??? My friend is unsure which firmware he used but were gonna reflash to stock then try a new version (or older if it works better) any firmware reccomends?
This post has been edited by crownvic420: Dec 22 2006, 05:43 AM
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I tried this on my hitachi 47dj but still dose not work any suggestions please
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Hey,
I tried adding velcro to it but nothing seems to work. if i add both sides of the velcro then no discs including orginals are read and if I do it with just one side, orignals are read but nothing else. What else can I use instead of velcro and glue?
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After my initial success with my own Hitachi 59 I tried this trick on a Hitachi 46 without success. I've done .5, 1, and 2 layers of rubber band with similar results every time. Does anyone have other suggestions?
Can the laser lens be dirty?
How should I clean it?
Is adjusting the POTs for the laser common to do?
What is the preferred value?
Origionals still boot fine, but known good backups always give the open tray message.
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ok, i started with one piece of the plastic cd,then two, then i wrapped some extra tape around it, then i used half a rubber foot from the 360. none have worked. and everytime i open the drive up the laser is in the same place (not touchig the button.
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hooray it worked thanks so much
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Hi Folks,
I have a drive that i have tweaked, and only now I have the open Tray- once I put it back together again.
It worked fine before dissamble but wasn't playing all my back ups. I have tweaked through the range and also tried to put back to original resistance. (OPEN TRAY)
The 360 boots up and the drive doesn't spin with disk in at all, the eye moves slighly. If disk is in from cold boot or from opening the tray, it says reading(no spinning) then OPEN TRAY????
This happens with backups and originals can anyone help????
Cheers your help would be really appreciatted....
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i flashed my hitachi 47dj and it will play regular games, but it won't play backups it says "unplayable disc" i have tried this method but it did not do anything, i tried 1mm, and 2mm, both did same thing anyone knoe of something?
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QUOTE(wonkymystical @ Oct 28 2006, 11:30 PM)

Works perfectly on my 47DJ, 1mm thick plastic from DVD case, no more open tray messages

...........
I got in a hitachi 46DH,, Did not work Still have the open try mess ,, And it never starts any games orginal or bakups. It worked fine to restore the firmware and put in ixtreme 1.4 no probs but still Open tray is all i get.
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Should this fix work as this xbox I just bought has open tray and has not been modded
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This worked for me (=
=)
Super-glued it on. (Please make sure you only use a very small drop!)
Only thing is, i can hear the DVD drive make a slight 'click' once every now and again.
Otherwise, it's all working fine so far... i even took the opportunity to clean the rubber spindle.
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Also did this MOD (while ago) and it worked!
Didn't used a piece o plastic, though: I've used several layers of duct tape to control the bumper thickness (around 0.5-1mm).
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Ive tried this mod and i think it has worked but I have just taken the spindle out and cleaned it. now when I put the dvd in the tray it only flashes onto "reading" for 1 second then nothing??
could it be that I have to mess around with those torx screws on the bottom? the ones that control the pitch and hieght?
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I just tried this fix and it eliminated the Open Tray error on my Hitachi 59DJ. Seems easier than doing the POT adjustment. Just one question, if I glue the plastic on it won't affect originals playing?
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I tried the fix on my hitachi 0079, but every time the piece of plastic hits the button the drive just makes a really loud fast clicking noise over and over and stays in place like it is trying to get closer to the button even though the piece of plastic is depressing it. Its like it knows its not reaching the proper spot naturally or something.
Anyone had this issue or anything similar? Ideas?
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Never mind about my last post. It worked! I can hardly freakin' believe it, but it worked. The reason why I was getting the clicking noise is because the piece of plastic I had cut was too big (and it was not big at all). Nevertheless, it was big enough to just be rubbing against god knows what.
I actually gave up on this trick two weeks ago, and came back to the idea only out of sheer desperation. Sure glad I decided to give it a second go.
Thanks to the OP, JayQ, and everyone who played a part in thinking through this fix. Rock on!
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ok when i tryed to do that i just kept on getting a ticking noise and it did'nt read anything, am i making my pieces to big. i know it is a problem with the switch though because when i started it up and pressed it back with a small flathead screwdriver all my backups did work like a charm, but i dont want to keep xbox 360 apart and do that everytime i want to play a backup game, please help me out give me some suggestions one what to use.
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Thanks!!! This fix worked wonders. I tried everything else!!!!
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stumbled across this today trawling the forums and tried it on a mates machine that's been playing up for months. worked a treat. has booted everything I've thrown at it so far first time unless they have been cheapo media i had laying around. verbs perfect every time. its a hitachi 59. thanks for the info its a great simple little fix any hitachi owner with problems should at least try before investing in a new drive/laser. took about 10 minutes to do.
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Ehh... It isn't working.
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yes, can anyone help me....
I tried to flash my xbox 360 dvd-rom with slax cd.
My cd-rom is Hitachi 0047DJ
I did all the correct things u have to do when to flash
but when i came to the point that the "slax" cd said, spinning up disc, i ejected the tray to move on.
But, when i tried to insert it back, it went back inside, but came out in like 5 seconds or something.
I got the drive to ModeB and everything, but i cannot continue flashing if my drive keeps coming out all the time , i dont know wich version i used of slax, but does that matter to that my drive is coming out alle the time, so can u plz send me positive feedback.
I would like if u send me e-mail instead of replying to this post, im not on xbox-scene so often...
So my mail is [email protected], plz no spam :/
Take care, and thank you! smile.gif
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I tried this, but it still doesn't work. I have a Hitachi GDR-312OL Drive with version 47DJ. My XBOX 360 is not modded and i'm not trying to play backup games. It won't play anything at all, as soon as I put in a disc it says "Open Tray". Anyone know another fix? I know the optics are not burnt out.
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This didn't work for me. I did exactly what you said... and I still get "open tray"
...
My firmware isn't hacked, does that make a difference?
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hey i did this. it just makes some grinding noise then sounds like its moving back and forth. my regular games and dvds play fine, but backups dont. what do i do? its a hitachi 59
QUOTE(bigman82 @ Jan 1 2009, 02:24 PM)

ok when i tryed to do that i just kept on getting a ticking noise and it did'nt read anything, am i making my pieces to big. i know it is a problem with the switch though because when i started it up and pressed it back with a small flathead screwdriver all my backups did work like a charm, but i dont want to keep xbox 360 apart and do that everytime i want to play a backup game, please help me out give me some suggestions one what to use.
did you keep the cover off and start it up? and then when it moved too far over you pressed the switch? like what did you do to make it work
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QUOTE(Textbook @ Sep 28 2006, 12:25 AM)

Awesome tutorial, took the time to write that up, take the pics, and edit them!
Should help some people with that Open Tray.

This is an awesome trick for the Hit59dj and I know that for sure. What up Textbook; you are one of the talented of the scene as well. I honor your tutorials man and have recommended them to many of my friends and family.
thanks,
you are appreciated
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Sticky this pleeeeaaaasssseeee
e Im getting tired of explaining this to people
It's great for the 47's and 59's
This only helps if originals play ok but backups dont
The reason being that the data on a backup starts a bit further out than on an original and the hitachi's dont move the laser out far enough to find the first bit of data hence it reports that there is no disc in the drive and the dashboard says "open tray"
I do this with all the 47's I mod now as it does no harm and its a problem that can occur after a modded drive has been reading fine for ages.
I actually think its more to do with your burner, I got the pioneer 111d and even on these dodgy drives, the backup's I made when I first got the burner work fine but my latest ones dont work at all.
Maybe as the burner gets a bit worn it uses up more of the disc calibrating itself before burning the data.
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Wow it's been a long time since I posted this fix! Its nice to see some people are still having success with it.
Though you will be less likely to do this now seeing as the Hitachi drive is no longer produced,I have used this on every Hitachi drive I've flashed, otherwise some backups will not work, for those of you that have not been successful with it I've got a feeling that your problem lies elsewhere, maybe in the burning process or a defective laser. I've had 100% success with this, any other 'open tray' problems i've encountered have usually come down to a dirty laser. On that point, for people who are still about to do this fix, try not to put your fingers on the laser lens while sticking the plastic on, it's easily done. A quick clean of the lens will sort that out though.
I spotted a reply on this thread asking if the drive should be flashed or not. Please read the original post, this fix is for people who are getting the 'open tray' message from certain backups they are trying on their flashed Hitachi drives.
See you in another 3 years! ha ha.
Danny
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I just did this on a v47 and it worked great.
Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures.
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no luck
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Hi How many pics are supposed to be in this tutorial... i only see one... is there anyway to repost the other tutorial pics? help would be greatly appreciated... thanks.
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It may load at a later date, only one pic loads for now.
Imageshack sucks, that's the real problem.
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I cant get it to work. Ive tried one piece, two pieces, and everything else. I wonder if my problem is in the burning process. Some games work and others dont. Im getting very annoyed.
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I was so excited when I read this thread. It matched the description of my problem perfectly. Then I tried it, and it didn't work. I cannot get any of my backups to work. They all get the "open tray" error.
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bad laser, or not using verbatim.
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QUOTE(Takashi @ Nov 4 2010, 05:04 AM)

bad laser, or not using verbatim.
Using Verbatim. And the drive runs originals if that means anything. I've never had the slightest issue with the drive.
I guess I should also mention that I just flashed the drive today. I've only got 3 dvd's. I've used 2. I tried Fable 3, and Madden 11. Neither work. Also, I have the new dashboard. Idk if any of this info helps. Could it have been flashed wrong? I mean I followed the tut from JF precisely.