Post by: plaguereign on March 25, 2010, 04:59:00 AM
Jtag Saver 1.0 by Xbox1crew
3/24/2010
Reasoning behind the design:
We wanted a simple, easy, and effective way of shutting down the jtag when it wasnt needed any longer.
Trying a 555 timer circuit, the circuit worked well, but was too expensive for people to get behind. This revision
actually costs about 2 dollars USD to implement and works well, without all of the extra components that were needed for
our first revision.
What will Jtag Saver do for me?
It will, in essence, allow you to safely use your jtagged xbox 360 without worry due to extra voltage or current being applied
to areas that weren't meant to have them applied. This circuit will shut the jtag circuit off after 15 seconds to try and limit
the damage that could be caused after long periods of use.
We developed this circuit after a few boards died soon after jtagging. It was too close together to be coincidental. Most boxes
that died did so within a week of jtagging. THIS is the reason for our pursuit.
The circuit has been tested thoroughly. Many on/off cycles were gone through to make sure that it worked every single time. It did.
Optionally, you can add a resistor and LED to pin 7 to show you when pin 6 is shut off (goes high). A 220 ohm resistor should suffice, but
this part is up to the end user.
Parts list:
PIC12f629
Octal switch cbt3244ad,112
2 1n4148 diodes
1 100 - 470 ohm resistor (for the "jumper")
Disclaimer:
We have no responsibility for anyone's damaged equipment, or for any misuse due to this circuit. This circuit was designed as a help to the
jtagged system user. Everything needed to get this circuit functioning, once you have the parts, is included in this file.
Enjoy and THANKS!
Greets:
EMAXX
Redline99
HoRnEyDvL
c0z
GreenGian
IceKiller
cr4zie
Team XeDev
free60
and Microsoft for making this fun :-D
This post has been edited by HoRnEyDvL: Mar 25 2010, 11:57 PM
Post by: ToBbErT on March 25, 2010, 07:07:00 AM
Post by: plaguereign on March 25, 2010, 08:43:00 AM
Thanks for your reply.
Post by: Mindstrm on March 25, 2010, 09:31:00 AM
I might be very new, correction, I am very new at the JTAG world but I have not heard of this at all and what further confuses me is that groups like Team Xecuter haven't mentioned anything about this even with their new release of the NAND and JTAG connectivity kits. If JTAG's are dying wouldn't their be more posts about it? Like I said I am still very new at this whole JTAG world but I think what this post says to me is wait a little bit till the experts figure out if we are all fu*king up our xbox's by JTAG'ing them!
Post by: juggahax0r on March 25, 2010, 09:53:00 AM
Post by: ToBbErT on March 25, 2010, 10:31:00 AM
Post by: SlickWilly440 on March 25, 2010, 10:34:00 AM
So basically, according to the OP, the JTag is only needed during the booting of the 360 system and after that the JTag can be turned off with the JTag Saver (15 secs after boot), and the 360 will still have the JTag'ed functionality, until the console is turned off?
Did anyone have trouble opening the .tif file and seen a picture? (B/c I did). Also, is the .hex file for flashing the PIC?
I think I'll just wait for a full tutorial or do some more research on making this. Until then, I'll try not to play the 360 so much.
Post by: ToBbErT on March 25, 2010, 11:00:00 AM
Its a little bit blurry becouse i just made a screenshot from the .tif
Anyone knows a good place where to get a Octal switch cbt3244ad? All the places ive been all charge alot of money for shipping. I need a store in europe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
This post has been edited by ToBbErT: Mar 25 2010, 06:08 PM
Post by: SlickWilly440 on March 25, 2010, 11:18:00 AM
QUOTE(ToBbErT @ Mar 25 2010, 12:00 PM) 
Yes the .hex is for the PIC, here´s the diagram http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/9965/jtagsaver.jpg
Its a little bit blurry becouse i just made a screenshot from the .tif
Anyone knows a good place where to get a Octal switch cbt3244ad? All the places ive been all charge alot of money for shipping. I need a store in europe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Thanks for posting a link.
Based on that picture, there will probably be an open market to sell JTag Savers.
Post by: jgsieve on March 25, 2010, 11:18:00 AM
Post by: akijikan on March 25, 2010, 11:28:00 AM
Post by: ToBbErT on March 25, 2010, 11:32:00 AM
QUOTE(jgsieve @ Mar 25 2010, 06:18 PM) 
Will this solve those weird ring of light problems like having the whole thing light up or the wrong controller. Also, maybe this could stop it from being turned just from plugging in the power block
The rol (ring of light) problem is related to XBReboot i think.
Post by: crimpshrine on March 25, 2010, 11:34:00 AM
From what I have read and is being covered in a thread on xboxhacker, if something negative were to happen from the "JTAG" it should only effect the JTAG. So for example if a unit did "die" due to a JTAG, XBR would just not boot. It should be easy enough to determine what cause of death was on one of these units that supposedly died due to JTAGGING. I have seen nothing yet to confirm anything, just people saying ohh well yea I heard rumors, etc..
Here is the thread at xboxhacker, I am sure there will be more posts by people that have a good understanding. If Blackaddr does not sound too worried then there is probably nothing here..
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=14724.0
Out of 45+ units I have done, I have not heard of one single unit stop working anytime after JTAGGING. 99% of the units I have done are Jaspers so to me that is not surprising since they don't suffer from heat related failures.
Most issues I have heard about are with XENON's and doing anything with one of those units is like playing with fire (literally). They die eventually due to heat issues. Just handling one that has NOT RROD'ed yet that has play time on it, is a big risk.
Stating otherwise without 100% proof that the JTAG is in fact responsible is just silly. Looks like someone is just trying to drum up a possible new thing they can sell to protect yourself.
Post by: SlickWilly440 on March 25, 2010, 11:41:00 AM
QUOTE(crimpshrine @ Mar 25 2010, 12:34 PM)
Stating otherwise without 100% proof that the JTAG is in fact responsible is just silly. Looks like someone is just trying to drum up a possible new thing they can sell to protect yourself.
Yeah, but if someone on the internet that I have never met before saids one is needed to protect my console, then I'm strongly inclined to get one installed otherwise my self-insecurities will get the best of me and I won't be able to sleep easy at night.........
.....................
But seriously, thanks for posting a link that allows use to get an alternative view on the situation.
Post by: Aldanga on March 25, 2010, 11:42:00 AM
I find this mostly pointless.
Post by: SlickWilly440 on March 25, 2010, 11:54:00 AM
QUOTE(Aldanga @ Mar 25 2010, 12:42 PM)
crimpshrine pretty much expressed my thoughts exactly. I've done more unit exploits than I can count and haven't heard of any consoles failing (apart from normal cold-solder issues which are bound to arise eventually).
I find this mostly pointless.
In case cold solder points cause a failure, it is just a temporary failure right (in case of cold Jtag'ed points)? I'm asking b/c the two solder joints on the wires the connect to the diodes on my 360 are so cold that they are jagged.
Others have told me to leave the joints along, perhaps I should get a second opinion.
Post by: Hoescout on March 25, 2010, 11:54:00 AM
If you solder and isolate everything well theres nothing to worry about. If someone messed up the soldering process he might take use of such crap, but then again he should better stay away from soldering more stuff on the mainboard and programming it.
This news is total garbage, pal my straightlyness
This post has been edited by Hoescout: Mar 25 2010, 07:01 PM
Post by: crimpshrine on March 25, 2010, 12:02:00 PM
QUOTE
Even if the JTAG wires did cause damage, it would damage the GPU JTAG port, which would prevent XBR from booting, but would not cause any other permanent damage since the JTAG port on the GPU is not used for normal operation with the original NAND.
So anyone saying their video is getting messed up, or RROD'ing sometime after JTAG, its probably coincidental.
The JTAG circuit and what it relies on is not tied to these other areas people are reporting failures in.
QUOTE(SlickWilly440 @ Mar 25 2010, 05:54 PM)
In case cold solder points cause a failure, it is just a temporary failure right (in case of cold Jtag'ed points)? I'm asking b/c the two solder joints on the wires the connect to the diodes on my 360 are so cold that they are jagged.
Others have told me to leave the joints along, perhaps I should get a second opinion.
Cold solder joint on a JTAG would just cause the JTAG to not work 100% of the time possibly. (Occasional the unit would not boot on power on, or you would get more ring of light weirdness) If you have a Jasper and you are not experiencing this I would not worry about it. If you do and are having this problem, re-solder the connections and see. It won't break anything having cold joints on the JTAG.
If you have a Zephyr, you are going to have trouble sometimes, there are confirmed issues with the Zephyr's on power on, randomly.
Post by: ToBbErT on March 25, 2010, 12:12:00 PM
This post has been edited by ToBbErT: Mar 25 2010, 07:12 PM
Post by: bengrimsy on March 25, 2010, 12:24:00 PM
This post has been edited by bengrimsy: Mar 25 2010, 07:27 PM
Post by: modslave on March 25, 2010, 12:25:00 PM
QUOTE(crimpshrine @ Mar 25 2010, 06:02 PM)
Even if the JTAG wires did cause damage, it would damage the GPU JTAG port, which would prevent XBR from booting, but would not cause any other permanent damage since the JTAG port on the GPU is not used for normal operation with the original NAND.
So if people did believe the JTAG have messed up their 360 they could simply flash back their orriginal Nand and all should be fine.
Im with the, until I hear of more fried 360's im all good camp
Post by: crisdo98 on March 25, 2010, 12:27:00 PM
After modding 70+ jtagged consoles with no issues what so ever. The occassional rrod is very common but this is the only issue.. nothing a hard reset doesn't fix.
Edit: Rather the spend all that time releasing a pic, diagrams and a 'you need this our consoles fucked up so will yours' mentality then expect to get flamed without proof.
As above, I've modified my fair share of consoles and have not experienced anything that you are describing. You are indeed the first and only person that seems to be having this issues with boards dying (that is if your install is not the cause).
This post has been edited by crisdo98: Mar 25 2010, 08:27 PM
Post by: plaguereign on March 25, 2010, 12:30:00 PM
BTW, Use it, dont use it. Dont spam my fuckin thread. I have respect for others, have the same for me.
This post has been edited by plaguereign: Mar 25 2010, 07:44 PM
Post by: lvader1 on March 25, 2010, 12:30:00 PM
QUOTE(Jtag Saver 1.0 by Xbox1crew @ Mar 25 2010, 01:59 AM)
What will Jtag Saver do for me?
It will, in essence, allow you to safely use your jtagged xbox 360 without worry due to extra voltage or current being applied
to areas that weren't meant to have them applied.
I agree with the others that this is a non issue.
But speaking to this point (I am not an EE) but common sense would lead me to believe that we are dealing with 3,5 and 12v's.
While these "circuits" may not have specifically designed to do what we are doing with them. It's not like we are pumping 100v through a 12v circuit. these WERE designed to have current through them.
so they should not fail just because we are putting current through them at our chosen time frames. and as long as we are not going over the systems limits, there should be no reason to fear failure of these circuits.
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 25, 2010, 12:30:00 PM
The original JTAG diode hack is quite elegant in design and a lot of people have thought about it, so i see no reason to change anything.
I predict that more xboxes will die from people who do this hack wrong then the Jtag diode hack.
This is just another 10 steps added to the hack that make it easyer to %$#@ it up.
This post has been edited by maximilian0017: Mar 25 2010, 07:31 PM
Post by: tstein on March 25, 2010, 12:42:00 PM
There is no explanation of the root problem. Without that, you can't possibly "fix" the issue. Why would you suspect damage "during" operation? What if the source of your damage had been startup related? A fast transient? ESD?
I applaud the effort of a solution and obviously the author has electrical experience to go so far as to provide an embedded solution, however there needs to be a technical description of the problem before you propose a solution. "It's fried therefore the JTAG needs to be switched off after startup" isn't logical at all.
Post by: Mindstrm on March 25, 2010, 12:43:00 PM
Thanks,
Mindstrm
Post by: fritoeata on March 25, 2010, 12:46:00 PM
To be clear.
TOP implies that you still need the JTAG. Does the JTAG wiring actually get used AFTER the NAND has been flashed successfully?
...My understanding of the jtag is that it "rebuilds" it to the original JTAG spec the 360 was designed with (for I/O only. No jumpers, etc)
input anyone? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
frito
This post has been edited by fritoeata: Mar 25 2010, 08:08 PM
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 25, 2010, 01:18:00 PM
QUOTE(fritoeata @ Mar 25 2010, 07:46 PM)
So wait...
To be clear.
TOP implies that you still need the JTAG. Does the JTAG wiring actually get used AFTER the NAND has been flashed successfully?
...My understanding of the jtag is that it "rebuilds" it to the original JTAG spec the 360 was designed with (for I/O only. No jumpers, etc)
input anyone?
frito
No,
During every startup the JTAG hack is used to change the state of the system so that it can run the exploit, once the system is under our control it isn't needed anymore.
Flashing of the NAND is completely seperate, it uses the SPI port and will work perfectly without the JTAG hack(But XBR/Xell wont work)
Use the Search function.....
Post by: Pacotera on March 25, 2010, 01:19:00 PM
On XH you said that you talked to at least 20 people who got the console fried within a week..... it was already stated that EVEN IT THIS WAS POSSIBLE it would only prevent XBR from booting, nothing else... if would not DAMAGE your xbox....
And saying that you talked to people is Anecdotal evidence. Where are these people? Did you checked each console to confirm it was actually problem with jtag and not only old boards (xenon, zephyr, falcon) that just got 3rl from natural causes (and problem with the design of there very boards)?
Did this 20 people you say tried flashing original nand and booting? Did they tried to change the diodes on jtag?
SO yeah.... this is utter bullshit...
Post by: Dre@m on March 25, 2010, 01:20:00 PM
Source code please or PIC12f683.hex
Post by: maximilian0017 on March 25, 2010, 01:25:00 PM
Send a couple of these "blown up" consoles to Reballers and you will quickly know where the problem lies, if the systems only work after replacing the GPU you will know the chance is there that it is the JTAG hack.
Dont hold you breath...
Post by: fritoeata on March 25, 2010, 01:32:00 PM
This post has been edited by fritoeata: Mar 25 2010, 08:33 PM
Post by: HoRnEyDvL on March 25, 2010, 04:11:00 PM
QUOTE(maximilian0017 @ Mar 26 2010, 06:25 AM)
Agreed
Send a couple of these "blown up" consoles to Reballers and you will quickly know where the problem lies, if the systems only work after replacing the GPU you will know the chance is there that it is the JTAG hack.
Dont hold you breath...
HAHAHA you guys are so wrong. Blown jtag has nothing 2 do with RROD or messed up grafics. Simply u blow up your jtag port xbr or xell will no longer boot all you will get is e79, Flash original M$ nand back & console works.
I got a console in australia that has this exact same issue. any doubter in aus wants to come see it then be my guest.
I say give it afew weeks & we will see others incorporating it into there designs etc.
Post by: DMAddict on March 25, 2010, 04:35:00 PM
Post by: Piratesmustperish on March 25, 2010, 05:05:00 PM
QUOTE(plaguereign @ Mar 25 2010, 02:30 PM)
If I wanted to sell this, do you think that I wouldve posted the pic hex and schematic? People are soooooo intelligent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jester.gif)
BTW, Use it, dont use it. Dont spam my fuckin thread. I have respect for others, have the same for me.
What he said.
Post by: Knasen on March 25, 2010, 05:16:00 PM
Post by: AmyGrrl on March 25, 2010, 05:41:00 PM
Post by: Lush on March 25, 2010, 05:48:00 PM
Post by: manpee on March 25, 2010, 06:04:00 PM
Post by: Zellcorp on March 25, 2010, 06:04:00 PM
Post by: slasherking823 on March 25, 2010, 07:10:00 PM
QUOTE(Zellcorp @ Mar 25 2010, 03:04 PM)
After doing at least 30+ Jtags now on all types of boards I haven't seen this issue once so really I don't see how its helpful, Also the tiff file in the zip has nothing in it far as I can tell is this an early April Fools Joke?
whoever is getting issues is still probably still using resistors
or bad soldering
I have better things to do with a pic then make a pointless circuit...
Post by: HoRnEyDvL on March 25, 2010, 07:32:00 PM
At-least i got peace of mind that after 15 sec the jtag has been shut off & dont have to worry about anything stuffing up.
My personal prefrence u wanna use it use it if not then dont. Its not like you have 2 pay for it anyways.
Post by: ddsdavey on March 25, 2010, 08:17:00 PM
Plenty of screw ups yeah and a few issues with rrods returning to NEVER depart once'tagged but this is hardly a widely known issue so ill assume,for now at least,that its hardly a problem at all or at least very rare.Sounds like the only person with the issues is the geezer who made the thing lol!
All love for the scene though so rep none-the-less!
Top marks buddy.
Post by: ccfman2004 on March 25, 2010, 08:40:00 PM
Post by: crimpshrine on March 25, 2010, 08:54:00 PM
QUOTE
If using the JTAG diodes, there is no electrical risk whatsoever. The "issue' is the SMC is driving 3.3V while the GPU JTAG is 1.8V.
The way the diodes work is they allow the SMC to drive logic LO, but when the SMC drives logic HI (3.3V) the diode effectively disconnects the SMC and a pullup resistor on the board already will pull the line to 1.8V which is the GPU voltage.
The connection with the jumper is simply tying an active low JTAG reset pin to 1.8V, so reset is not asserted.
This method of JTAG hack is electrically SAFE.
The LPT is a different story. Your LPT port is +5V, your SMC is 3.3V. Putting resistors in series helps provide a current limit but can still damage the NAND. There is a definite risk here (even if a small one). But since most people access the NAND in this way only a few times, then later updates can be done wtih software tools running on the console, this isn't a big issue.
However, I still DO recommend people only use a buffered, level converting interface if they want to be 100% safe. I posted a schematic for such a circuit in the Hardware section. I have seen enough flash chips get fried with just resistors from my satellite experience to know not to do it on an Xbox. So I never use anything other than an electrically safe circuit, but I'm anal, and to my knowledge NO ONE HAS DEFINITELY FRIED THEIR NAND FROM USING ONLY RESISTORS YET.
But this JTAG Saver above is pure snake oil.
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=14754.msg106388#msg106388
Post by: stuntz0rZ on March 25, 2010, 09:17:00 PM
Post by: HoRnEyDvL on March 25, 2010, 10:00:00 PM
QUOTE(stuntz0rZ @ Mar 26 2010, 02:17 PM)
can this be applied to an already jtagged system?
Yes it can
Post by: BlueSlingShot on March 25, 2010, 10:09:00 PM
Hopefully there won't be any either
Post by: subse7enx on March 26, 2010, 01:26:00 AM
Post by: scuba156 on March 26, 2010, 02:47:00 AM
If you dont like it, then dont use it but its there for people that want the actual protection that this offers.
Post by: keropi on March 26, 2010, 03:59:00 AM
Post by: lost4468 on March 26, 2010, 07:59:00 AM
QUOTE(BlueSlingShot @ Mar 26 2010, 04:09 AM)
My jtagged xenon is on for quite a substantial amount of time and my console was done about 2 months ago and no problems.
Hopefully there won't be any either
OH, there will be believe me, there will be
Post by: thethinker360 on March 26, 2010, 08:03:00 AM
Post by: ccfman2004 on March 26, 2010, 08:36:00 AM
QUOTE(thethinker360 @ Mar 26 2010, 03:03 PM)
well, rather just use a Cygnos360 V2. that is safe and will not do any damage. The team Cygnos had warned multiple times that the other jtag stuff is not electrically "clean"
Sure they are not just trying to sell their product by falsely warning people about the JTAG hack.
How is Cygnos360 v2 better than the extremely cheap JTAG hack. Can it run the hacked Kernel without having to JTAG the console?
Post by: luceri on March 26, 2010, 08:39:00 AM
Internal 2TB 3.5" HDD modded to be accepted by the 360 as hdd1 via SATA and not USB (HUGE performance increase BTW -- Don't know if anyone ever did a guide for this but games load at least 3-4x faster vs USB HDD and NEVER stagger), 6x 5-12v fan controller powered via molex from under the PSU adapter (connected to it are 3 new fans and the 2 rear fans, including 2x 120mm over gpu/cpu and 1x 40mm aiding in exhaust). I've had this w/ dvd drive and an external USB drive, two memory units, and a usb memory stick. If i'm not drawing insane power, i don't know who the heck is.
This is all on an oldschool launch console -- xenon (hence the cooling mod overhaul). I've got at least ~1000 hours on this console jtagged. I leave it on overnight regularly for FTP. I treat it like a PC and just leave it on at least 12-16hrs a day idle most the time but still powered up since the absurd fan configuration has temps insanely low even at full load; With the low temps i figure no big deal.
Now -- this Jtag Saver -- is this saying the Jtag wires THEMSELVES could overvolt and hurt components? I'm not drawing power from stupid places like most people do, just from the PSU adapter itself before the power is circulated. I think this may be why I have no issues maybe? Or maybe it's a Xenon was more hardcore with this stuff type deal -- i don't know. I just figured I'd share my experience with no issues and an insane schedule.
If someone could answer that question I'd be appreciative. I come from a classical PC modding background and am not the best with electrical things. I hold my own and can get what I want done easily but I still don't fully understand all the in's and out's and exactly what these resistors/transistors are doing beyond a basic concept tbh.
Post by: modrobert on March 26, 2010, 01:57:00 PM
I've been analyzing the file 'Jtag Saver.tif' in the hex editor, but not sure what to look for, maybe someone with experience of TIFF exploits can have a stab at it.
Post by: ccfman2004 on March 26, 2010, 02:05:00 PM
QUOTE(modrobert @ Mar 26 2010, 08:57 PM)
While it has been interesting to read the whole discussion here I can't help wondering what that invalid .tif file is doing in jtagsaver-v1.0.zip. Does "TIFF exploit" ring any bell (it does in my paranoid brain)?
I've been analyzing the file 'Jtag Saver.tif' in the hex editor, but not sure what to look for, maybe someone with experience of TIFF exploits can have a stab at it.
What invalid .tif file are you talking about. The one I got from the zip is a picture of a schematic. Try using a program that can read .TIF picture files.
Post by: modrobert on March 26, 2010, 02:14:00 PM
QUOTE(ccfman2004 @ Mar 26 2010, 08:05 PM) 
What invalid .tif file are you talking about. The one I got from the zip is a picture of a schematic. Try using a program that can read .TIF picture files.
If my vague suspicions are correct, that would be like asking someone to click on a virus infected .exe.
Post by: p1nky2oo7 on March 26, 2010, 03:42:00 PM
And while all the consoles work there is something strange: both JTAGGED HDMI consoles (Falcon & Jasper) will NOT work with the kind of HDMI equipment I got which is like this:
Console -> HDMI autoswitch -> Onkyo AV Receiver -> TV
they do NOT show any video in this configuration, and display on the Onkyo which shows if it gets a signal is usually flashing ike crazy or getting nothing at all
they DO however work this way:
Console -> Onkyo AV Receiver -> TV
ie if I remove the autoswitch but connect the console directly to the Onkyo they will work fine.
now you will say there is a problem with the autswitch (caused by the autoswitch).
BUT: I am 100% sure that both HDMI consoles DID work fine going through the autoswitch before the JTAG hack was applied. Also I got 2 more HDMI consoles here that have not been JTAGGED (1 Jasper and 1 Zephyr, and yes I do have a lot of boxes here
) and those 2 also DO work just fine using the autoswitch.So in the end I see only 2 possibilities:
either I fucked up both my HDMI consoles in the very same way so that they do basically work, but somehow not through the HDMI autoswitch anymore OR there actually IS some issue with this JTAG hack which 99% of the people will not see (as most people won't go through 2 other devices before the HDMI reaches the TV).
you can call my soldering skills poor and you'd be right but fucking up 2 consoles in the very same, very special way seems unlikely.
also note that the Falcon console uses the normal JTAG hack and was originally flashed via LPT while the Jasper console is modded using the Cygnos v2 (and has exactly the same symptoms regarding this HDMI issue).
Post by: scuba156 on March 26, 2010, 04:15:00 PM
QUOTE(modrobert @ Mar 27 2010, 07:14 AM)
If my vague suspicions are correct, that would be like asking someone to click on a virus infected .exe.
Heres one with a jpeg version for all the paranoid ones out there (the original .tiff was never invalid and works just fine)
Jtag Saver 1.0 with jpeg
Maybe you should look at the credits in the .nfo before spouting this as a virus...
Post by: kphlight on March 26, 2010, 07:40:00 PM
Because there is a lot of speculation about the need for these, I'm not going to try and scare people and tell them their JTAG system is doomed unless they buy this. My JTAG Xenon has worked since the beginning and still works, JTAG Saver or not. My Falcon ran XBR since it was released and then stopped booting with anything but the stock NAND. I don't know if it's related but for a few bucks, it would have been worth it to know for sure if the extra wiring killed it. Buy one of these, build your own, or don't; not my Xbox (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Link is http://www.360usbspi.com
This post has been edited by kphlight: Mar 27 2010, 03:26 AM
Post by: modrobert on March 27, 2010, 04:10:00 AM
QUOTE(scuba156 @ Mar 26 2010, 10:15 PM)
Heres one with a jpeg version for all the paranoid ones out there (the original .tiff was never invalid and works just fine)
Jtag Saver 1.0 with jpeg
Maybe you should look at the credits in the .nfo before spouting this as a virus...
Thanks.
Dopus, gimp, "Windows Picture and Fax Viewer", and several other programs with TIFF support I've tried fails. That lead to the conclusion; either the image is invalid (maybe even has exploit) or Adobe invented a new standard with the extension .tif (considering their bloated and extremely slow programs it wouldn't surprise me).
BTW: I recommend using a picture format with lossless compression like PNG for diagrams, so you don't lose quality but still maintain small file size.
Post by: numlockhome on March 27, 2010, 07:52:00 AM
this sounds like a bunch of BS to me, and now people are gonna sell this crap?
if you have problems with your jtagging its probably due to user error, some people just shouldnt deal with electronics in the first place. ive seen too many butchered motherboards and other stuff in my days, trust me.
Post by: ewok666 on March 28, 2010, 09:50:00 PM
QUOTE(numlockhome @ Mar 27 2010, 02:52 PM)
never heard of this problem, done quite a few jtag:s myself and NEVER had a problem with anyone of them.
this sounds like a bunch of BS to me, and now people are gonna sell this crap?
if you have problems with your jtagging its probably due to user error, some people just shouldnt deal with electronics in the first place. ive seen too many butchered motherboards and other stuff in my days, trust me.
I've had a Falcon die shortly after the Jpeg. It initially booted fine but then started to hang occasionally. A few days later it began to show graphics corruption and then died. It was doen with two diodes and a wire. The replacement Jasper I bought has two diodes and a resistor.
I took the Falcon board out of the case to solder from the bottom and then started the Xbox while it was still outside the case although just for about 20 seconds. I actually think that the board warming up outside the case caused it to warp slightly producing the RROD but who knows. A reflow in Australia costs $100 and I wasn't about to throw that kind of money away when I could get a brand new jasper for just $50 more (with a spare power brick, controller and BenQ drive)!
Post by: Haygar on March 29, 2010, 05:32:00 AM
QUOTE(ewok666 @ Mar 29 2010, 02:50 PM)
I've had a Falcon die shortly after the Jpeg.
You're.......surely.......joking, right ?!
It died from a picture, lol ?
But seriously, I noticed some differences with a Falcon I was working on in regards to the resistor versus just the jumper and I'm gonna add a 330R to mine asap. Haven't had any issues with my Jasper but the Falcon has occasional ROL errors on startup and clock resets usually too.
Not saying it will help but it never had clock probs B4 jtag, so it seems like a small bug somewhere.
This post has been edited by Haygar: Mar 29 2010, 12:35 PM
Post by: wang_chung on March 30, 2010, 09:16:00 PM
This post has been edited by wang_chung: Mar 31 2010, 04:17 AM
Post by: Pacotera on March 31, 2010, 11:20:00 PM
QUOTE(crimpshrine @ Mar 26 2010, 03:54 AM)
From new thread on Xboxhacker, this specific post is from Blackaddr:
http://www.xboxhacke...06388#msg106388
Even after this people are still considering wasting time with this
Post by: HoRnEyDvL on April 02, 2010, 10:15:00 PM
QUOTE(Pacotera @ Apr 1 2010, 04:20 PM)
Even after this people are still considering wasting time with this
If its such a waste of time why has team Xecuter inplemented something similar in there design???
This below is from Team Xecuter.
* Option to disable JTAG completely. We have basically added an "OFF" switch for those that need to disable the JTAG hack for whatever reason (testing, debugging, returning to stock etc). This of course saves you the time from having to desolder anything.
* This is the cleanest and most solid JTAG install you will find. No need for any circuits to disable the JTAG after so many seconds - no messy installs or bad parts causing RROD's.
Haha yeah but u need 2 reopen your case every time u wanna turn it off or back on.
Thats what makes our design much better imho.
Post by: Aldanga on April 02, 2010, 10:20:00 PM
QUOTE(HoRnEyDvL @ Apr 2 2010, 11:15 PM)
If its such a waste of time why has team Xecuter inplemented something similar in there design???
*snip*
Team Xecuter has been known to jump on anything that will make them money, even if it is ridiculous. Just because they make their own product or version of a product does not mean the product is legitimate.
Post by: raburton on February 03, 2020, 01:50:00 AM
QUOTE(HoRnEyDvL @ Apr 3 2010, 04:15 AM)
If its such a waste of time why has team Xecuter inplemented something similar in there design???
They, haven't! Seriously, can you not read? It says the exact opposite "No need for any circuits to disable the JTAG after so many seconds", and then they blame "messy installs or bad parts" for any RRODs.
Unless of course you are confusing the fact that they put in a general off switch, which is there to allow the mod to be disabled without desoldering, the purpose of which is also clearly explained in the text you quoted.
Post by: kickinazz on April 21, 2010, 05:18:00 PM
QUOTE(Haygar @ Mar 29 2010, 06:32 AM)
You're.......surely.......joking, right ?!
It died from a picture, lol ?
But seriously, I noticed some differences with a Falcon I was working on in regards to the resistor versus just the jumper and I'm gonna add a 330R to mine asap. Haven't had any issues with my Jasper but the Falcon has occasional ROL errors on startup and clock resets usually too.
Not saying it will help but it never had clock probs B4 jtag, so it seems like a small bug somewhere.
I have a Falcon I bought brand new about 4 months ago after my jtagged xenon died. Lately the ROL has been doing weird shit. One red light and still functional, all 4 lights staying on and 360 functional. As of late, when I turn it off, the 360 completely powers off but the ROL stays on and the controller stays on. Then I have to pull the plug to kill the lights. Now, when this happens I get E79(no ROL at all, all lights off). I have to unplug the 360 and the USB HDD. Replug in both and E79 goes away. Each time this happens I have to go through the system setup again.
Post by: thethinker360 on April 22, 2010, 08:56:00 AM
QUOTE
Team Xecuter has been known to jump on anything that will make them money, even if it is ridiculous. Just because they make their own product or version of a product does not mean the product is legitimate.
its crap
Post by: BladeWing on May 01, 2010, 02:33:00 PM
Would it be safe for me to boot with the jtag wires, then use a switch to break the connections manually. If doing this, would i have to do all 3 connections, or just the 2 with resistors.
Post by: Haygar on May 01, 2010, 03:56:00 PM
In your case with the xenon you will have either the original 3 resistor setup or 2 diodes. If you still have the resistors I would change that. There is some good info/links in this thread.
Also, I think it is possible to manually switch out the jtag links once the dash is up and running, just don't let anything short out.
Post by: harleywastaken on May 05, 2010, 04:02:00 PM
QUOTE(Haygar @ May 1 2010, 02:56 PM)
but it's not like you can go out and just grab a new jtag-able box off the shelf now!
it's not that hard to find 3rd party refurb xenons at or under 6xxx, still wrapped in plastic.
Post by: stuntz0rZ on May 19, 2010, 03:13:00 AM
Post by: thethinker360 on May 19, 2010, 05:06:00 AM
Post by: stuntz0rZ on May 23, 2010, 07:30:00 AM
Which one should i get? The Cygnos360 V2 or the V2 Rev. F?? I'll be installing it in a resident evil elite which has a 16mb nand
This post has been edited by stuntz0rZ: May 23 2010, 02:31 PM
Post by: thethinker360 on May 27, 2010, 07:05:00 AM
at VGCrepairs.com the Rev. E is cheaper than Rev F. and you have the advantage that you can have two different hacked dashboards. (e.g. two different regions with freeboot or xbr images)
F is a bit easier to install but does not contain a secondary NAND.
so if I were you i would grab a revision E. only people with 256 or 512Mb jaspers need to use F
Post by: TicTac XD on August 14, 2010, 04:16:00 PM