Post by: ydgmms on March 07, 2007, 08:09:00 PM
Post by: Heykrop on March 07, 2007, 08:12:00 PM
I got mine from modchap.ca. Connected it to a Hitachi 0078FK and DID NOT use the Network or LED connections. NOW all I get is an ERROR 64 WITH or WITHOUT the chip installed.
Post by: Heykrop on March 07, 2007, 09:42:00 PM
QUOTE(ydgmms @ Mar 7 2007, 10:26 PM) 
Nah. Your problem is a bad install(er), not a bad chip - since you get errors without it also. I'm betting you had some short somewhere that ended up frying your firmware.
http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=589582
I would tend to agree with you on that if it werent for the fact that I did the install myself under a microscope in a board servicing lab.
Post by: ydgmms on March 07, 2007, 10:42:00 PM
as far as the LED point. in my last install i was getting no backups to boot, so i put the LED to see if the chip was activating...it was not. I removed the coil but not the LED wire and all was well. So to say it IS the front panel connection isn't 100% right.
What would *I* do?
Install the chip as is. If it doesn't work TEST EVERYTHING. Laser - proper solder - wires - shorts - i would even start all over even using new wire if need be - also make sure the backup works (I know my backups work because I have my own personal xbox with a nme1.1 chip and they work in that)
*IF* I still get errors. Then I would try removing the 470 and replacing it with a wire.
*IF* I still get errors. I would try what NME suggests.
I'm not sure what 'remove 47 and put to 5v' means. I dont think english is teamunderdogs first language.
It could either mean what we've been doing, removing the 470 and shorting the pins out. *OR* remove the 470 and place it in between the 5V point and the wire that woudl go to the 5V point. As people with Hitachi DJ drives have to do using the 220 coil.
and from what i've read and encountered personally. the 470 doesn't cause E## errors. It causes a "Please insert this disc..." error. If you're gettin an E## error, something else is most likely wrong. Could it? Maybe, I haven't done enough to see. But from my personal experience, it causes the disc to spit out "Plesase insert this disc in an xbox 360 console".
QUOTE(Heykrop @ Mar 8 2007, 05:49 AM)
I would tend to agree with you on that if it werent for the fact that I did the install myself under a microscope in a board servicing lab.
but the chip does not overwrite your firmware. when its turned off its the same as not having a chip at all and your drive being stock. when its on it patches the firmware with what it needs. but doesn't overwrite anything permanetly.
Are some chips bad from a lot? Yeah. There is such a thing as a dud chip in every batch. but I doubt you have it, and if you did, i doubt it would permanetly screw up your drive.
i think something shorted out and corrupted your firmware.I'm sure your a competent tech, but lets face it the nme1.2 hitachi install is a bitch. the points are so close and they need so many wires. a short could have happened anywhere and you may have over looked it..it happens.
Post by: riffman2525 on March 07, 2007, 11:12:00 PM
Post by: ydgmms on March 07, 2007, 11:29:00 PM
QUOTE(riffman2525 @ Mar 8 2007, 07:19 AM)
thanks for the advice ydgmms....got one more question though.....I saw the video of removing the glue with the heat gun.....It doesnt look that hard to do.......it looks much easier to go that route because the soldering looks like it would be much easier job to do on the chip rather than those tiny leads with the alt points.....is there a reason for not going the route of the heat gun???? im not arguing with ya.....I'm just curious and trying to figure out the easiest thing for me to do is.....thanks again..... Riff
It depends on the drive.
Does your drive have the black epoxy? If so, it may be easier to heat up the chip area(careful not to overheat the chip itself) and chip just enough to solder a wire to the pin.
Yeah its easier to solder to the pins, they're bigger.
If your drive just has the white epoxy, I wouldn't waste my time heating/chipping the chip area. when for me its easier to scratch off the green board layer and solder to the copper.
Its all up to you. I know what I can and cannot do.
Post by: goofy173 on March 08, 2007, 08:13:00 PM
I would also be careful in heating any epoxy/glue stuff on boards as some can have cyanoacrylate in it and it will form cyanide gas when heated.
When I heated mine I was using a biohazard fumehood.
Post by: ydgmms on March 08, 2007, 08:29:00 PM
Post by: getchevyn on March 09, 2007, 11:39:00 AM
Post by: goofy173 on March 09, 2007, 04:43:00 PM
At least I know now I have everything close to right and the NME's firmware is still intact. Now if they can just get it straight but I don't have any hope of that. Who's responsible for a refund? The seller I bought it from or Team Underdog?
I'm tired of having to rework the NME and I'm going to use something else.
Post by: ydgmms on March 09, 2007, 09:08:00 PM
Post by: goofy173 on March 10, 2007, 11:40:00 AM
QUOTE(ydgmms @ Mar 9 2007, 11:15 PM)
the seller would need to issue a refund. If they don't - point them to Team Underdogs site where they say specificlly there is a problem with the chips.
That's where I'm headed then. I can't believe they released these unchecked with all possible combos.
Post by: uncl3t0m on March 10, 2007, 05:21:00 PM
I'd read the whole thread, and i had only registerd to ask this little question:
My problem is that my nme36 1.2 doesn't work like it should. I've doublechecked all the wires and of course tried some other (and im not a trainee in soldering, i'd done a Hitachi nme360 mod before and it works!). I soldered this da*n chip to this Samsung Drive so many times i don't even count any more, i thougt the Samsung would be very easier. I failed and this is keeping me awake every night.
So right back all i get is a Power LED which only stays at OFF and any backup i try is playing this DVD Video.
If i connect the network point i'll get an E75 error (there is no SMD at the soldering point?? Hitachi has got one).
If i disconnect the LED wire the LED stays at ON but all i get ist this da*n video.
Today i read your very interesting guide in which u tell me to bridge/remove the 470 and don't connect the network point if i get only DVD videos. I think i have to try it, now its revenge time, i'll get this!
Unclear for me is (excuse me im german, and my english isn't that good) remove and bridge the 470 or should i try to first remove and test and if it won't work all the way i should bridge it?
Simple said:
-Bridge and remove?
-only remove first?
What would you do?
Thank you!
P.S.: Please excuse my bad english and the other stuff
Post by: ydgmms on March 10, 2007, 08:05:00 PM
Post by: getchevyn on March 10, 2007, 10:20:00 PM
Post by: uncl3t0m on March 11, 2007, 03:28:00 AM
QUOTE
remove. solder wire in its place - as per the guide.
O.K.
So, if i do so (remove and bridge),
could i use the chip like it is supposed to with all that network and LED stuff or should i disconnect some of the funktions?
I don't want to open my box 10 times a day, so i would like to know everything before i open it again.
Another thought from me is: could it be that the chip has taken damage?
The first time i soldered it in i'd forgotten to connect "B" to GND, but it was already fine. I could play orig. games but no backups like the behaviour now with this connection.
So i connected B to the resistor on the Chip and nothing changed...
I tried some variations like Connect only the necessary wires (A B I 5V GND) and i got the same effect as with LED wire connected. If i connect the network wire together with all the other including LED i get this E75 error.
The last thing i will try now is this bridging method including connected LED (i want to know if the chip is "on") and disconnected Network wire, i'll do it and then come back and report.
Thank you very much for your help!
Post by: uncl3t0m on March 11, 2007, 06:48:00 AM
Not like it should but it works.
I removed and bridged the 470 soldering points, then i soldered everything as shown in the guide. without the Network wire because there is still an capacitor or something else missing and i don't want to see this E75 error.
Now everything is fine, i can live with that network problem, everytime i play a Backup ill disconnect the RJ45 connector on the back of the xbox and i can go shure that nothing happens on the network. Its the safest solution.
The only thing which gets pretty annoing is that i have to turn OFF and On the xbox to change the status of the chip. For example, if i play an orig. game and want to play a Backup after that i have to shut down the box and start it again with a backup allready inside it because otherwise the backup will boot with the DVD video.
The funny thing is that the Chip Status LED is already off and tells me that the chip is working. But it isn't.
Same problem if i want to play a orig. game after a backup. The orig. game won't be recognized without a restart of the console. The LED is changing its state to "on" if i put a orig. game in after i used a backup which means the chip is OFF but the orig. games shows up with this DVD video i allready know from non working backups.
I think this is not the way it is meant to be working. But i can live with that also.
So the last state is that i can play backups, but the way it does is keeping me awake every night again like the problems before, because something is wrong for shure i think.
Greetz Tom
Post by: getchevyn on March 11, 2007, 11:57:00 AM
1.) Network doesn't really do anything. It only disconnect it if you are playing a backup. I rather just pull out my wifii doogle when playing backups just to be safe. But there are times when I want to play xbox live with my backups. If I connect the network wire, I can't do that.
2.) The Led connection does cause your chip to behave strangely. There is a 1.6 volts coming out into the chip in standby mode. This will cause the xbox to bootup in NME mode. This is bad because after bootup, the 1st thing your xbox does is sign in to xbox live. That is a sure way for Microsoft to detect your chip.
I believe the 470 coil in the NME chip is use to control the switching modes that the chip was designed for. For example the NME "auto-detects" what kind of dvd you have in the drive. The Xeno-360 requires you to push the eject button to start in NME mode. I think, in my opinion, the 470 coil causes the chip into NME mode if a voltage is apply from the led connection. It was probably an oversite teamunderdog didn't see because there are so many versions of xbox 360s out there.
Which brings me to state ," I don't think M$ is able to prevent anyone from hacking the firmware because of the so many versions of firmware( or dvd drives) out there." I remember the heyday of Directv hacking and the reason they were able to stop it is because there was one card in the stream. If they change cards, then the system is secure. M$ can't posibily change or swap every version of drives out there.
Post by: goofy173 on March 11, 2007, 01:06:00 PM
QUOTE(ydgmms @ Mar 10 2007, 05:50 PM)
wait. you didn't REMOVE the 470 coil? You just put a wire over it? That could be the problem. I'm not sure exactly what the coil does or is, but when you put a wire over it like that you're changing the circuit.
Shorting across a coil, capacitor, resistor does just that. Shorts it. It doesn't change the circuit.
Don't do it across power or powered components. That's where you get into problems.
Oh, I didn't mention I have a B.S. in Electronic Engineering Tech. from Purdue and have been an electronic tech ever since (22 years) so ya know where I'm coming from.
I just happened across this board after trying to find out the problem with these NME 1.2's. I wouldn't let my kids have an XBOX 360 until I found a good chip for creating backups as they tend to scratch a lot of discs. After seeing Team Underdog's overrating on their chip I decided to go for it and spent $700 for the kids to get the whole thing (controllers, games, etc.) and I preordered the chip, bought a DVD drive as per their instructions, flashed it, and started copying the 4 games we already had. When I got the NME I installed it as per instructions and had the problems. Searched and found this forum and a few others. It got me experimenting again and I actually had one backup work one time, but never since then, and when using the NME, many times the originals say to put in an XBOX 360 to use. Now I'm looking for a different chip as I don't have high hopes this will ever work 100% on a Samsung drive.
Post by: ydgmms on March 11, 2007, 05:57:00 PM
Try doing that.
*note* I didn't bother with the network point, so that may or may not work. But the chip detects backups and originals fine and the LEDOff functions fine as well.
Post by: goofy173 on March 11, 2007, 06:24:00 PM
QUOTE(ydgmms @ Mar 11 2007, 07:04 PM)
I understand.. But I've installed a fully functional NME1.2 chip in a Samsung drive. And so have others. But the people that have have completely removed the coil and shorted the points. We didn't put a wire over it.
Try doing that.
That was what I did originally but if you put a SMD component on and off the board a few times, eventually it'll screw up the board. Jumpering across a coil, resistor, or capacitor isn't any different than removing it and jumpering the pads. Current will always take the easiest path, and in this case, it would be the jumper wire.
Also, there are 2 types of Samsung drives being used in the XBOX 360. Different drives may act differently with the jumper. I think if the fix was as easy as the jumper, Team-underdog would have come out with that fix by now.
My guess is that this fix will require more than just a change of the 470 µH inductor, but without knowing what program is in the NME chip, I don't know.
At least now I can use it with a switch across the coil.
Post by: uncl3t0m on March 12, 2007, 01:14:00 AM
QUOTE
*note* I didn't bother with the network point, so that may or may not work. But the chip detects backups and originals fine and the LEDOff functions fine as well.
Same for me here, i didn't bother about the network feature, everything is connected without the network thingy.
But i can't get the Chip switch status (i can watch the LED, it connected i already said) on a running system. I have to shut down and power up with an Backup or an Original game to get the status i want.
Very annoing.
Post by: ydgmms on March 12, 2007, 01:48:00 AM
QUOTE(uncl3t0m @ Mar 12 2007, 08:21 AM)
@ydgmms: I have the same problems as goofy173 and i removed the 470 and bridged the points like you said.
I have this da*n "shut down to change status" problem. Without the coil and with jumper.
So, how could that be? I dinn't put a wire over the coil, i did everything like it is meant in the guide. But it is not working properly...
So what to try next?
Same for me here, i didn't bother about the network feature, everything is connected without the network thingy.
But i can't get the Chip switch status (i can watch the LED, it connected i already said) on a running system. I have to shut down and power up with an Backup or an Original game to get the status i want.
Very annoing.
Do you have to turn the system off for a few minutes like goofy? or just reboot it?
If the latter, that happens.
If the former, and if your NME came with another coil marked 220, try putting that in the 470's place.
Post by: uncl3t0m on March 12, 2007, 02:40:00 AM
QUOTE
If the latter, that happens.
This happens every time
The 220 coil you ment wasn't included in my package, is it worth a try to go out and get some 220 coil to test this option? Can i use every 220 coil? whats the mesurement for coils? i think i don't need to get a smd one because no electricity shop near by has got smd thingys. Am i right?
But if so, i need the correct description of the coil so that i can go to an electronics store and say correctly what i want.
I can Solder like im doin' it for 100 years (i've started back with the PS1 and since than i had every console on my soldering table including PSP, we all know you have to be skilled to do such a thing) but i have no clue on this whole electronics thing.
I admit that im a very good tutorial reader and that i can follow very komplex tut's too (including doing what im reading) but i have no clue on electronics.
But thats not the problem here, i think the problem is that the chip developer is sitting on his a** and do nothing. Thats a big dissapointment, they even don't reply to mails we send them. (i read in another forum)
My biggest problem is not that it don't work, it works flawlessly when it comes to load backups. But it is another problem that i can't use the chip for what it is made also.
The chip even stays on if i have no game in the drive, i can only boot to chipless status if i have a orig. game in the drive. So if i connect the Network funktion i have the problem that the box only boots if i have a orig. game in it. if there is no game, or a backup i will get error E75. Thats the reason i disconnected the network funktion.
But i don't think the problem is the network funktion which causes this problem. Another person in this forum postet a theory:
If the box boots with enabled chip and network off feature connected the chip turns the network card off too early so that the box is thinkin that there is a hardware prob and brings E75. (wich is a network error if i remember correctly)
So i agree with that theory!
But, what to do now?
I think we can only hope that some "electronic specialists" correct it soon and make a tutorial on how to fix it, or the chip developer itself is getting his fat a** up and do their job.
I'm sorry for the raw language but im very pi**ed off! This is keeping me awake the last 4 nights and i can't stop thinkin about this with the hope of getting a fix every day.
Da*n, its a ray of hope that TeamCyclops got their internally problems fixed. Maybe TeamUnderdog turns the corner and gets some fix tutorial on their page...
Who knows.
Post by: ydgmms on March 12, 2007, 03:16:00 AM
QUOTE(uncl3t0m @ Mar 12 2007, 09:47 AM)
hmmm, i think i have to turn it off and on, that brings me to the question: is there a reboot funktion?
If i press the globe on my controller i only have the option to shut the box down. There is no reboot.
But what i can shurely say that i don't have to wait until i can reboot the system to change the state of the chip.
Is that behaviour what you called "reboot"? (off/on without waiting)
This happens every time
Yeah, thats a 'reboot' to me. And yeah that happens. Goofy has another problem where he has to wait a few minutes before turning the console back on.
QUOTE
The 220 coil you ment wasn't included in my package, is it worth a try to go out and get some 220 coil to test this option? Can i use every 220 coil? whats the mesurement for coils? i think i don't need to get a smd one because no electricity shop near by has got smd thingys. Am i right?
But if so, i need the correct description of the coil so that i can go to an electronics store and say correctly what i want.
I'm not sure. I dont have the hardware to test the inductance on that coil to say for sure the measurement. It may be a 220uH inductor. If you can find one, any should work. But I can't say for sure. uH stands for microHenry. You can go and ask "I need a 220 micro henry inductor coil, preferabbly surface mount like this *show them the 470 coil*."
QUOTE
The chip even stays on if i have no game in the drive, i can only boot to chipless status if i have a orig. game in the drive. So if i connect the Network funktion i have the problem that the box only boots if i have a orig. game in it. if there is no game, or a backup i will get error E75. Thats the reason i disconnected the network funktion.
But i don't think the problem is the network funktion which causes this problem. Another person in this forum postet a theory:
If the box boots with enabled chip and network off feature connected the chip turns the network card off too early so that the box is thinkin that there is a hardware prob and brings E75. (wich is a network error if i remember correctly)
So i agree with that theory!
But, what to do now?
No clue. I've never installed the network point, so I can't really comment on it or the errors.
Post by: uncl3t0m on March 12, 2007, 03:35:00 AM
QUOTE
But I can't say for sure. uH stands for microHenry. You can go and ask "I need a 220 micro henry inductor coil, preferabbly surface mount like this *show them the 470 coil*."
Thats exactly what i want to hear, thank you for that.
I will try if the 220 coil works better than this bit of wire which is now on the 470 place.
What i still don't get is:
Other people should first try if it works (only the backup function including reboots?) with a piece of wire in place of the 470 coil and if it don't work they should try the 220 coil.
So for me the piece of wire works, if i try the 220 coil will there be any advantage? Or is it only the last hope for people who don't get it working at all (including the wire method).
So why should i try if i already know that this will turn on the Backup function but nothing else?
I'm out of options...
Post by: uncl3t0m on March 12, 2007, 06:39:00 AM
I think it will fix it so far that u can play a backup, but it fixes nothing like the "network off function" or the "reboot to change status" problem. Am i right?
so this is no fix for me, its a workaround...
But the statement that your friend is a Person who is modding for money through a shop i would like to know if he is doing this workaround to get the backup funktion working or all the other things too.
Cause if a shop praises the functions of an nme360 the shop has to ensure everything is working properly.
So this (the fix) is what he is doing to ensure that every function of the chip is working?
The state in which my chip is by now is not the fully functional one, well in this case i'm going to open my box once again to check my drive if it is a MS25 or a MS28. This is the first post i'd read about drivetype makes a difference.
For me it looked everytime like a try & error method on how to prove which "fix" fits better (the coil or the wire way).
Thanks i will try...
