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Here is my newest tutorial. A video is coming soon too. VIEW THIS TUTORIAL IN HIGH RES - CLICK HERE
I wrote this tutorial to show how I install the transistor jtag wiring on HDMI versions of the Xbox 360.
The install is easy, neat and fast.
This circuit was developed by Blackaddr.
I also used the SMC patch tool by Blackaddr to move the TMS signal from ARGON_DATA (aka the ROL board point) to the AUD_CLAMP point.
For an explanation of why this is better than the old diode method you should read the PDF file included in Xbox 360 SMC I/O Config Utility.
[PARTS LIST]
2x 10K ohm ¼ watt resistors
2x 2N3904 Transistors
30AWG kynar wire
3/64 Heat Shrink Tubing
Step 1)
I remove the solder from J2D2 points 1, 2, 4 and 7 using my solder sucker
You could also get them cleaned out using de-soldering braid.
If cleaning them is not for you then you can just heat them with your soldering iron and when it melts you just stick the components used in the next few steps through.

Step 2)
Install the 2 resistors as shown.
Allow the excess legs to stick through the board. We will use them in the next step.

Step 3)
Flip the motherboard over. Fold the resistor legs over so they pass by each other.
Add a quick dab of solder to join them and then trim off any extra.

Step 4)
Fold the other resistor legs over as shown and trim them to the length shown.

Step 5)
Add your first Transistor at point J2D2-1.
Take note: The flat side of the transistor faces away from the GPU heat sink.
During this step the center pin on the transistor gets soldered to the resistor in J2D2-7

Step 6)
Install the second transistor.
It goes in just like the other one and its center pin connects to the other resistor.

Step 7)
Solder a piece of kynar wire to each of the remaining legs on the transistor.
You can precut and pre strip each wire.
The wire that goes to the DB1F1 alt point should be 1 ¼ inches in length and the AUD_CLAMP wire should be 3 ¼ inches long.
Slide some shrink tube over each wire to protect against shorts and to make a very professional looking appearance.
Feed the wires through the holes near the southbridge as shown.

Step 8)
Connect wire to AUD_CLAMP

Step 9)
Connect wire to DB1F1 alternate point.
On Zephyr version boards this point may be covered in laminate.
On Falcon versions it is already tinned with solder. If you dont like this point you can always use the real DB1F1(top) or FT1U2 (bottom)

All pictures taken by BoXXDr
Instructions written by BoXXDr.
Thanks to Blackaddr for his research.
Please contact [email protected] if you need someone to install this.
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is this worth rewiring my jasper?
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QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Aug 21 2010, 01:56 AM)
is this worth rewiring my jasper?
Do you ever get failed boots? e79?
This is what Blackaddr says in the .PDF included with Xbox 360 SMC I/O Config Utility.
QUOTE
The transistor method provides a safe electrical circuit by disconnecting the SMC when it drives 3.3V, but allowing the SMC to pull the signal to 0V when driving logic zero. There will be a very small voltage drop across the transistor, so the JTAG sees a voltage as high as 0.1 V. This ensures both logic 1's and logic 0's are correctly captured.
So basically it produces a very clean signal. During bootup a "payload" is injected into the GPU thru the jtag wiring. I guess if any of the Zero's and Ones get lost the systems fails to boot.
So this is basically the ultimate fix for anyone that is having issues.
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mine boots just fine, but the pdf was a nice read. i finally found out that pad i lifted was just a test point. i still might give this a try, every now and then i do get some funny lights on my rf.
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As promised here is the video
BoXXDr Installing Transistor Jtag Wiring on YOUTUBE
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Thanks. There is no difference for jaspers right?
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many thanks, great tutorial
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QUOTE(nonsub2 @ Aug 26 2010, 12:55 AM)
Thanks. There is no difference for jaspers right?
Jasper should be the exact same.
I know on Zephyr version motherboards the point that i call the "alternate DB1F1" point is covered in laminate so if you want to use that point on Zephyr you need a fibreglass brush to prepare it.
So try it out on your jasper and take some pictures when you are done. I would love to see how it turns out.
QUOTE(bearkilla @ Aug 26 2010, 06:16 AM)
many thanks, great tutorial
Thank you, it was alot of fun to make. I spent alot of time thinking of the best way to install this with he least amount of work.
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Thanks for this great tutorial. I just did a zephyr 4580. Took me only 9 hours to get it to boot freeboot.
-installed free60(xell/xellous) for falcon/smc patched
-got my cpukey
-used falcon 5770 donor files and zephyr kv/smc_config w/ ibuild(freeboot .032)
-flashed image(updflash) bin file with xellous.
This works with zephyr's CB 4580 for anybody else having trouble.....
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for anyone who can't get the 2N3904 Transistors....you can use the NTE replacement transistor model no. 123AP....i couldn't get those 2N3904 Transistors and juggling through my semiconductors book, i found the replacements and it work just like the ones in the parts list
Enjoy
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Total newbie question...,
I've flashed several Xenon boards before but I'm about to flash my first Falcon - HDMI...
This tutorial seem straight forward so far but i have a quick question..
How do I use the SMC patch tool to move the TMS signal from ARGON_DATA to the AUD_CLAMP point...?
Can I still use Freeboot Toolbox Maker with this...?
thanks
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Can I use 0.6watt resistor instead of 1/4watt...?
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QUOTE(gomson @ Sep 15 2010, 05:54 AM)
How do I use the SMC patch tool to move the TMS signal from ARGON_DATA to the AUD_CLAMP point...?
Can I still use Freeboot Toolbox Maker with this...?
I use Freeboot Toolbox Maker to do this. Check the box "creating a custom freeBOOT"
Then when you Generate FreeBOOT it will open up a Folder where you can browse into the Data folder and find the smc.bin file. I then cut it and paste it into a folder that has a copy of blackaddr's SMC I/O. Then rename it to smcold.bin and open up the command prompt and simply issue this command
smc_io smcold.bin smc.bin
Then copy the new smc.bin back into the data folder and let FreeBOOT creator finish. Then flash your FreeBOOT and you are all done.
QUOTE(gomson @ Sep 15 2010, 08:44 AM)
Can I use 0.6watt resistor instead of 1/4watt...?
It should work fine but they are a bit big. The only reason i specify 1/4 watt is to avoid everyone asking me what size to use.
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Thanks mate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif):D
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@syntaxerror329
Does the tutorial at : https://docs.google....mv5h_30dw33vpf4 still apply to this wiring....?
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QUOTE(gomson @ Sep 15 2010, 12:11 PM)

@syntaxerror329
Does the tutorial at :
https://docs.google....mv5h_30dw33vpf4 still apply to this wiring....?
Take a look at Step 4 in that tutorial. They have already linked to my tutorial.
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Sep 15 2010, 05:41 PM)

Take a look at Step 4 in that tutorial. They have already linked to my tutorial.
DUDE!!!!!, Thank you, thank you....
Ordered some 10K ohm 1/4watt resistors, just gonna wait for those before attempting it..so fingers crossed.
I was wondering though, what if you have errors in your nand reads. For example, my nand dumps (5 times and 100% match for all 5) gets this one error at the same place: Error 250 reading block 146.
As I understand it, I can either choose to remap or leave it like that and it shouldn't matter. I'm rooting to the later unless I need to. What would be the conceqences if I don't remap in this particular instance...?
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QUOTE(gomson @ Sep 15 2010, 01:04 PM)

DUDE!!!!!, Thank you, thank you....
Ordered some 10K ohm 1/4watt resistors, just gonna wait for those before attempting it..so fingers crossed.
I was wondering though, what if you have errors in your nand reads. For example, my nand dumps (5 times and 100% match for all 5) gets this one error at the same place: Error 250 reading block 146.
As I understand it, I can either choose to remap or leave it like that and it shouldn't matter. I'm rooting to the later unless I need to. What would be the conceqences if I don't remap in this particular instance...?
If you are flash Xellous first it only uses the first 50 blocks so that will be fine. When you flash the full FreeBOOT.bin to your box if you flash it with USB/LPT you have to remap the blocks, if you flash it using Xellous it will automatically remap the bad block.
So if you didn't remap and flash it thru LPT / USB the box would do unpredictable things.
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Understood, thanks.
I think I'll try and flash it through Xellous then and see how I get on...
Keep you posted...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Sep 16 2010, 01:17 AM)

If you are flash Xellous first it only uses the first 50 blocks so that will be fine. When you flash the full FreeBOOT.bin to your box if you flash it with USB/LPT you have to remap the blocks, if you flash it using Xellous it will automatically remap the bad block.
So if you didn't remap and flash it thru LPT / USB the box would do unpredictable things.
It should be said that Xellous flash can be a bit buggy, so I wouldn't rely 100% on Xellous to remap bad blocks correctly. The 100% foolproof method would still be to remap them manually using NandPro.
Anyways, thnx for the great tutorial boxxdr, I already wired 4 consoles this way & zero problems. However, it is a bit more time consuming than the diode method & I definitely wouldn't recommend it to soldering noobs...
Btw, is there a way to get the cpu key with the aud_clamp connected? By this I mean the first time you boot into Xell/Xellous, before hacking & flashing the smc? I always connect to ROL before the first boot, get the cpu key, then move that wire to aud_clamp later, when I already flashed the freeboot w/ modded smc. It won't boot at all if i don't do this, i think you get a standard E79.
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If you view Looouky's guide, he has an archive of Xellous for the various archives prepatched to use AUD_CLAMP.
You can then use AUD_CLAMP to get the CPU key.
I don't think Blackaddr's method is any more difficult than using diodes though, and i've noticed my Jaspers with it boot up much quicker than my Falcon which has diodes. I'd definately use the transistor method.
This post has been edited by tk_saturn: Sep 29 2010, 04:27 PM
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Will BC547 transistors work instead?
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Answering my own question, yes they do. I have mine up and running now, you just have to turn the transistors over as the BC547 pinout is reversed compared to the 2N3904. But I can confirm it works!
Now to look at my DVD drive that I killed by plugging the power in back to front
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I just did my first JTAG that involves any of these elements:
1) a Zephyr (4558)
2) transistors
3) AUD_CLAMP
I've done the diode method on other consoles before so I'm not new to the JTAG game. However, with this box, after I flash Xellous with the patched smc, I get an E79. If I flash back the original NAND dump (I have a full dump), the box boots just fine. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what could be causing this? The soldering looks good as far as I can tell, but I'll try to redo it if there are no other suggestions. Thanks.
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Ok, I got everything working. Apparently my DB1F1 alternate point connection wasn't solid. Here's a pic of my work because syntaxerror329 asked for it.
(IMG:http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8689/transistorjtag.jpg)
It's definitely a tight squeeze in that area.
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I followed your video perfectly on a Zephyr I'm working on and my solder job looks great. So now I'm at the part were I patch the Smc with the smc-tool. So for TMS I would use option 3 aud_clamp, .....and I couldn't get that little point for the life of me so i used FT1U2 instead and I'm just making sure for when I'm patching TDI I would pick option 2 DB1F1 alternate correct? I would have PM'ed you but apparently im not allowed to PM people anymore.
GREAT video by the way I'm also using this video too but he is doing something with tray_open and I know that's not right so I had to ask what to do. I'm pretty tired by now so I'm going to bed now maybe you'll check this thread by the time I decide to start messing with that box again in the afternoon. L8R
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Double post... ok I used TMS option 3 aud_clamp and for TDI option 2 DB1F1 alternate (FT1U2). I got the Zephyr I was working on perfectly running freeboot 2.0.9199.0, success!!!!
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Resistors can be put in any direction, doesn't matter. Diodes and transistors are one-way though.
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QUOTE(gomson @ Sep 15 2010, 12:11 PM)

@syntaxerror329
Does the tutorial at :
https://docs.google....mv5h_30dw33vpf4 still apply to this wiring....?
Yes that tutorial is great. They have a link in that tutorial to my tutorial for the transistor wiring so just follow it. So if you want the cleanest transfer of the jtag payload possible then this is the way to do it!
Good luck.
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QUOTE(cmdbga @ Oct 16 2010, 03:36 PM)

That tut is overkill if you ask me but i understand:)
This cured my Zephyr E79'ing on every other boot. I used the 10kohm 1/2 so they are fine but are bulky.
Thanks a ton for this method and for this thread. Amazing
Yes, it is overkill, i have used bits and pieces from it but i have never once followed it from begining to end. It does cover alot of the one off situations so it can be good to keep bookmarked.
So glad to hear this made your Zephyr work better! E79 is such a pain in the ass. After all you get stuck doing 1st time set-up everytime it happens.
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QUOTE(JBoxMods @ Oct 19 2010, 07:47 PM)

So has anything of this sort been established for xenon boards? we just run the wiring to the corresponding places on the board, only replacing components right?
Yes, you are right. I keep forgetting to post a picture of a Xenon done with transistors.
Maybe you could do it and post one for me
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Did you use an smc.bin that was patched to use AUD_CLAMP?
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QUOTE(fanni @ Oct 22 2010, 12:55 PM)

Finally just got round to wiring up my troublesome jasper
But it no longer boots into xellous for me?
Do I need to flash a different xellous via lpt to get it booting?
Great tut BTW
will stick some pics up of my instal once i get the bloody thing running lol
BTW I previously had it done the diode method but on odd occasions it would give strange green lights and not boot then the other day it just refused to boot at all so reflashed xellous over lpt and used that to flash my freeboot image over
Just wondering if maybe I have another issue somewhere else?
Check out the tutorial at > https://docs.google....mv5h_30dw33vpf4
Read step 6
You will need to download the "Patched SMC and XeLLous images for Zephyr, Jasper, & Falcon:" Links are in the tutorial.
You will also need to build a custom FreeBOOT as AZImmortal has suggested and replace your smc.bin with a patched smc.bin also found in the above suggested download.
Once you figure all this stuff out once it should be really easy for you.
Good luck!
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Right still got a bug with this console which is doing my head in now
Have had the console running fine over hdmi but if the console is turned off for a while when i turn it back on i get no video output over hdmi but if i use the component leads it's fine?
Once i get it going again with the component leads i can turn off and it will then work with the hdmi lead until i turn it off for a bit and i'll have to repeat the process again to get the hdmi working
Once i had it boot as if it was all pixelated not in a 3rlod way but as if the screen resolution was way out everything was really blocky?
Think i may just flash my original 7371 on and start from scratch again
Unless someone else has any ideas
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I've done 3 xenons with this method and they haven't missed a beat. Something I have noticed though, is that it seems to boot up a little quicker ? Don't know if it's related or not .. i'm doing another xenon within the next week .. might post some pics ...
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If the console is plugged in with the component lead then it's stable and will boot everytime
Just get the problem over hdmi I get a solid green light and the green ring flashes as normal just no video unless I use component then hdmi
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This method looks very promising. I have a 2 jaspers arriving next week that I'm going to try this on. after reading the posts, I have one concern.
I noticed a couple people on this forum say you should update existing jtag wiring using this method if you are having problems. Should I still do this if my boxes are working fine? I've only had 1 of 3 show strange green lights one time, but other than that, they are all flawless (never had e79 error). I dont understand everything in the Xbox 360 SMC I/O Config Utility pdf, but (Correct me if I'm wrong) it seems like the smc method dissconects the SMC when the 3.3v travels through it? Since the old wiring method doesn't do this, can this old wiring potentially damage the box over time? If so, am I correct that I should update all old wiring to prevent possible future damage?
I used this wiring method on my falcon:
http://boxxdr.com/boxxdr_jtag.jpg
I used the standard wiring for my other two xenons.
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QUOTE(MadBoxer @ Nov 4 2010, 05:13 AM)

This method looks very promising. I have a 2 jaspers arriving next week that I'm going to try this on. after reading the posts, I have one concern.
I noticed a couple people on this forum say you should update existing jtag wiring using this method if you are having problems. Should I still do this if my boxes are working fine? I've only had 1 of 3 show strange green lights one time, but other than that, they are all flawless (never had e79 error). I dont understand everything in the Xbox 360 SMC I/O Config Utility pdf, but (Correct me if I'm wrong) it seems like the smc method dissconects the SMC when the 3.3v travels through it? Since the old wiring method doesn't do this, can this old wiring potentially damage the box over time? If so, am I correct that I should update all old wiring to prevent possible future damage?
I used this wiring method on my falcon:
http://boxxdr.com/boxxdr_jtag.jpgI used the standard wiring for my other two xenons.
If you are not getting any error's then you are probably just fine to leave things alone. Personnaly I updated all of my xbox's to use this new wiring. Both methods i think are electrically safe to use but the transistor method does disconnect once the payload is injected so it is by far the best. And of course using aud_clamp eliminated any ROL issues.
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Nov 4 2010, 07:17 AM)

If you are not getting any error's then you are probably just fine to leave things alone. Personnaly I updated all of my xbox's to use this new wiring. Both methods i think are electrically safe to use but the transistor method does disconnect once the payload is injected so it is by far the best. And of course using aud_clamp eliminated any ROL issues.
My two jaspers arrived today and I started the transistor jtag method. They ended up not having internal memory. YAH! I've never worked on small jaspers before (I hate large nands!) and I wanted to verify that they are 16mb like all other boards? Before dumping with nandpro I want to make sure the commands are the same as other 16mb nands "nandpro lpt: -r16 Filename.bin"
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QUOTE(MadBoxer @ Nov 6 2010, 09:09 PM)

My two jaspers arrived today and I started the transistor jtag method. They ended up not having internal memory. YAH! I've never worked on small jaspers before (I hate large nands!) and I wanted to verify that they are 16mb like all other boards? Before dumping with nandpro I want to make sure the commands are the same as other 16mb nands "nandpro lpt: -r16 Filename.bin"
Yes, all the command are the same.
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Aug 20 2010, 09:43 PM)

[PARTS LIST]
2x 10K ohm ¼ watt resistors
2x 2N3904 Transistors
30AWG kynar wire
3/64 Heat Shrink Tubing
Hey Boxxdr,
I just realized that I don't have any 10k ohm 1/4w resistors. I have "10k 1/2w" and "10k 1/8w" and my local radioshack is out of stock!
I got some off ebay for future jtags, but they are comming from hong kong and will take weeks for arrive. I obviously know going up to 1/2w would work, but I ideally don't want to be that bulkly. Do you know is 1/8w would be able to handle this load?
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QUOTE(MadBoxer @ Nov 9 2010, 01:17 AM)

Hey Boxxdr,
I just realized that I don't have any 10k ohm 1/4w resistors. I have "10k 1/2w" and "10k 1/8w" and my local radioshack is out of stock!

I got some off ebay for future jtags, but they are comming from hong kong and will take weeks for arrive. I obviously know going up to 1/2w would work, but I ideally don't want to be that bulkly. Do you know is 1/8w would be able to handle this load?
1/8th should work perfect.
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QUOTE(WakenBlake @ Nov 9 2010, 10:29 PM)

I'm a bit confused about wiring an xenon this way. Would it be the same as in the pictures in the first post?
Everything is the same except the wires that go to the AUD_CLAMP and the DB1F1 Alt now go to the J1F1 header.
So the wire that comes from the transistor closest to the GPU goes to J1F1-3
and the other goes to J1F1-4
Please take some pictures after you do this and post them here. If you need a host for your photos PM me and i can host them.
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Nov 9 2010, 08:45 PM)

Please take some pictures after you do this and post them here. If you need a host for your photos PM me and i can host them.
Just Finished the jaspers and the the transistors work great! I have a xenon that I'll probably update with the Transistor mod. I can send you photos if you want.
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Nov 9 2010, 07:45 PM)

Everything is the same except the wires that go to the AUD_CLAMP and the DB1F1 Alt now go to the J1F1 header.
So the wire that comes from the transistor closest to the GPU goes to J1F1-3
and the other goes to J1F1-4
Please take some pictures after you do this and post them here. If you need a host for your photos PM me and i can host them.
Boxxdr,
I went ahead and posted the photo on photobucket. This is a couple views of the Xenon board I just finished with the transistor method. Hopefully this will help clear up some of the confusion people are having. Feel free to host it on boxxdr.com and add it as an example in your tutorial if you want. All that I ask is that you give me credit for the photo example. I can also supply you with hi-res versions if you need it. You may also notice, I used 1/8w resistors and it works flawless! I like how clean it is with 1/8w ones.

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Great job MadBoxer.
There are not enough people that can solder, take good pictures and know thier way around photoshop too.
Also very nice of you to give credit to myself and blackaddr.
Thanks for sharing your work.
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Great tutorial all 3 of you all

So will the new cool shrimp jtag tool be able to flash these fine without any issues. I remember when i did my zephs i had to do it manually with freeboot toolbox and copy the files, but if the the coolshrimp does it automatically then great.
Also on a side not boxxdr, i assume you have an electronics background? How did you go about figuring out this new method? Currently i use tuts to do my work. But would hope to actually figure things out and contribute such as you and others have.
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QUOTE(xboxhaxorz @ Nov 13 2010, 04:11 PM)

Great tutorial all 3 of you all

So will the new cool shrimp jtag tool be able to flash these fine without any issues. I remember when i did my zephs i had to do it manually with freeboot toolbox and copy the files, but if the the coolshrimp does it automatically then great.
Also on a side not boxxdr, i assume you have an electronics background? How did you go about figuring out this new method? Currently i use tuts to do my work. But would hope to actually figure things out and contribute such as you and others have.
Cool shrimps tool should work. If not there are other tools and methods so try it and if it don't work someone will help you.
I do have a decent eletronics background but the brains behind this is all blackaddr. All i did was come out with a very neat way of installing this. I also traced the jtag lines to find that alternate point mind you others had already found it before me. blackaddr actually uses my method to install it now so i am good for something. 
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Nov 12 2010, 11:41 PM)

Great job MadBoxer.
There are not enough people that can solder, take good pictures and know thier way around photoshop too.
Also very nice of you to give credit to myself and blackaddr.
Thanks for sharing your work.
Thanks for the kind words! I'm Glad to help. I've spent years on these forums as a guest learning from posts and tutorials just like this. I figured it is about time I make an account and start giving back.
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Hey!
my box is randomly rebooting often in gameplay.
Its wired up with diodes now. I'm definitely going down and getting me some transistors and trying this.
Wish me luck
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QUOTE(lillboden @ Nov 16 2010, 05:36 PM)

Hey!
my box is randomly rebooting often in gameplay.
Its wired up with diodes now. I'm definitely going down and getting me some transistors and trying this.
Wish me luck

Not sure if this will fix it but it is worth a shot.
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QUOTE(smokeDOGGbaby @ Nov 17 2010, 05:36 PM)

Nice tut. I followed and all went well.I have one question though , are the 2n3904 transistors the only ones that work? sorry if this has already been anwsered. thanks
Other types will work but they might have different pinouts. They also might not work right with 10k resistors if you use something else. So if you want this to work nice with the least chance of problems just get the right stuff. I really should start selling a boxxdr jtag kit with some nice wires, shrink wrap and all components.
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QUOTE(smokeDOGGbaby @ Nov 17 2010, 02:36 PM)

Nice tut. I followed and all went well.I have one question though , are the 2n3904 transistors the only ones that work? sorry if this has already been anwsered. thanks
Often when a circuit calls for a 3904, you can subsitute almost any NPN transistors and you wont notice a difference. However, why would you want to use others? 2n3904's are very cheap and one of the most common avaialble. Unless you have others laying around, there shouldn't be any reason to use anything else.
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so can this method be used on all motherboard revisions? (Aside from where the other end of the wires end up soldered to the mobo)
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QUOTE(AZImmortal @ Nov 22 2010, 04:56 PM)

Yes, eevn though this method was originally developed for the HDMI consoles, it'll work on Xenons as well. MadBoxer posted a pic of a Xenon earlier in this thread.
awesome, thanks!
And awesome tutorial/mod Boxxdr!
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QUOTE(lillboden @ Nov 22 2010, 07:21 PM)

back again and finish with the new wiring. had a little problem finding a 2n3904 transistor but found a replacement called BC547b but reversed pinouts on emitter and collector and works like a charm.
Thanks for the tut and time will tell if there was any wrong with the diodes I had earlier when i was experiencing random shutdowns and restarts. prob bad soldering.

Good job finding a replacement and noticing the pinout was differnt.
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I have about 90 x BC635 laying about doing nothing, ...dont suppose I could use them could i? Or are the specs too far off?
Cheers
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Hi, first post here.
I have a jasper 16MB nand 7371 with cb of 6723 which I believe is exploitable. MFG date is
I followed this tutorial and the one mentioned earlier in google docs. I was using coolshrimp JTAG and read the nand with no errors.
When I flashed xell which comes with jtag tool the jasper won't boot with old diode method and bridging pin 4-7. Tried with jasper_6723_hack.bin and it just gives E79. I have checked and rechecked my soldering and its fine, no solder splashes or lose connections as I am using the alternate pin on the underside of the board...
Anyhow now I'm using the transistor mod for the jtag xell stage and modified xell so that it uses aud clamp for TMS and alternate point for tdi and all i get is rrod with 0031.
How are people flashing their jasper's to get xell booting?
p.s if i flash original nand back xbox boots just fine.
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QUOTE(j911 @ Dec 15 2010, 01:00 PM)

Hi, first post here.
I have a jasper 16MB nand 7371 with cb of 6723 which I believe is exploitable. MFG date is
I followed this tutorial and the one mentioned earlier in google docs. I was using coolshrimp JTAG and read the nand with no errors.
When I flashed xell which comes with jtag tool the jasper won't boot with old diode method and bridging pin 4-7. Tried with jasper_6723_hack.bin and it just gives E79. I have checked and rechecked my soldering and its fine, no solder splashes or lose connections as I am using the alternate pin on the underside of the board...
Anyhow now I'm using the transistor mod for the jtag xell stage and modified xell so that it uses aud clamp for TMS and alternate point for tdi and all i get is rrod with 0031.
How are people flashing their jasper's to get xell booting?
p.s if i flash original nand back xbox boots just fine.
1) did you write your keyvault afterwards to the nand? (or put it in the image before flashing it)?
2) or.. why didn't you use XBR_Jasper16_8955_3.bin as your starting point? <<probably more important to answer. then answer #1.
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i just completed my first aud-clamp. reading (for comprehension) how to build the appropriate xbr_*_8955 w/patched smc's took a while.
i am concerned, to be honest, that if this unit ends up in someone else's hands it'll be coming back to me; either with an incorrectly flashed smc or just to update it. bestpig REALLY needs to add smc_io support; or at least have a set of options (TMS == [drop down], TDI == [drop down]): there's only 6 popular combinations. if folks have more complicated than that (and frankly, i'd be happy if TMS==AUD_CLAMP vs TMS==ARGON_DATA was the only option).
btw, the preceding paragraph is based on the fact that i only work with jaspers. i completely understand falcons & zephyrs needing this method. insanity4all highlighted the support issue about 3 weeks ago and it really did shift my perspective on methodology, at least as far as jaspers go.
anyway, i thought i'd share my work with this box. it took me quite a bit longer than greg, and certainly much longer than RoL wiring or bottom ARGON_DATA wiring.
first, cleaned pins 1,2,4&7:

(missing resistor installation. thanks camera! (read: user error))
bridged resistors:

first transistor in:

second transistor in:

transistors/wires wrapped:

AUD_CLAMP:

and alt-db1f1:
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I did this method on my xenon. I dumped the nand 3 times, then i flashed xell. When I try to boot into xell with the eject button it just brings up the regular blade dash. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Thanks in advance.
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whatever image you use, xell, xbr, etc, it must have the appropriate smc code for the wiring method you're using. you may be able to find xell binaries that have tms on audclamp, i've never done it.
my method:
1) dump nand.
2) make sure it's good. (i always do 3 reads and let nandcompare produce my "original" [tho i've never had nandcompare say it couldn't find a match for all blocks across 3 dumps]).
3) read kv out of nand (or your dump).
4) write the appropriate xbr_jasperXX_8955_3.bin to the nand. note the word appropriate. the usual places has images that have tms on ARGON_DATA and tdi on DB1F1. you'll need to make your own if you change where those signals are located. this is accomplished with sbtool (extract smc from either your dump or xbr_jasperXX_8955_3.bin) and then run it through blackaddr's smc_io tool. this thread is not about how to do that (and as i type this i realize that, call the police, the thread is getting jacked!), so you can read up on that.
5) write your kv back to the nand.
5) wire your method up.
6) boot into xellous by using eject. there's your cpu key quick get a camera ah crap you need to reboot cuz you weren't ready. seriously, use your camera.
7) build a freeboot image with your cpu key and your original nand. custom build it and use that same patched smc you created in step 4 (unless you use the standard tms=ARGON_DATA, tdi=DB1F1 wiring).
8) boot up the box, start xexmenu, launch flash360, write the freeboot image you renamed to updflash.bin and put in the same folder as flash360.
9) go to bed cuz you're up WAY TOO LATE. oh my god you have to be up in 3 hours to take the kids to school and then head into work. omg. but wait. i should just put the system back in the case; ah shit, first i need to flash the drive. dammit.
10) drink caffeine in the morning.
11) repeat #10.
note, tho, that i only work with jaspers and YMMV.
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You do not use aud clamp on a xenon from what I know it will not work.
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Ok so I tried everything that was suggested i.e. patching smc for aud_clamp into xbr and adding kv, also using hacked xell with patched smc, nothing worked. The 360 just flashes an E79 whereas if I flashed back to the MS dashboard it would boot fine I have even used a executor QSB for the jtag with the diodes soldered to correct points and resistor switched to various positions.
Does anyone have a 7371 nand image of 16MB jasper they can donate as mine got deleted. I already have my kv and config info just need the 7371 bin as my 7363 backup wont boot now just flashes single green light for a while then RROD with error 1031.
TIA
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so i am very interested in doing this fix.
i currently have diodes. i was one of the first to do the jtags. ya its original wiring.
i wanted to know if i have both falcons working well enough to flash using flash 360, should i flash with the Aud_clam fix then do my wiring or will my system still boot after i remove the old wiring and install transistors then flash using flash 360?
thanks guys
Shawn
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QUOTE(shawndezy115 @ Dec 28 2010, 01:52 PM)

i wanted to know if i have both falcons working well enough to flash using flash 360, should i flash with the Aud_clam fix then do my wiring or will my system still boot after i remove the old wiring and install transistors then flash using flash 360?
0) create your new image with tms on aud_clamp
1) flash new image via flash360 or xellous (i use flash360)
2) remove old wiring, install new wiring
3)
4) profit.
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you may want to practice desoldering some spare pcb you've got laying around. i can't get my timing right on using a pump/sucker, so i just use braid. knowing what to look for helps, so practice may help.
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I'm going to atempt my first hdmi board, can i use 1/2 w instead of 1/4 w resistors ?
Also i use bestpigs toolbox to create freeboot images for xenons, i notice there is an option for smc but i'm not sure if there are any other special requirements for creating fb images to be used with aud_clamp wiring ?
I just read the full thread and pretty sure i have it sorted now, off to buy the components and get stuck into it tonight.
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im confused on the smc.bin...
Im supposed to get it from my original nand than modify and flash into the modded nand?
i have xreboot flashed to the nand. i get a single red light, 1033 error.... the original jtag wiring was throwing e79 errors so i decided to switch to this. i am completely lost.
its a falcon
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QUOTE(leperkuan @ Feb 7 2011, 07:28 AM)

im confused on the smc.bin...
Im supposed to get it from my original nand than modify and flash into the modded nand?
i have xreboot flashed to the nand. i get a single red light, 1033 error.... the original jtag wiring was throwing e79 errors so i decided to switch to this. i am completely lost.
its a falcon
Just use the pre patched smc file that is linked to Loookuy's jtag post, i couldnt be arsed patching my own so used the pre made ones and they work fine - once you put them in the right freeboot folder.
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This tutorial has premade smc's for audo_clamp method. Download the patched smc and xellous images title below directly from the tutorial. Choose the smc for your falcon.
Use best pigs freeboot toolbox maker 2.6 or 2.7. Use the option: click to make a custom freeboot image. Add your cpukey, and it will prompt you for your nand image and your patched smc from that tutorial below. It will build a new updflash.bin.
Patched SMC and XeLLous images for Zephyr, Jasper, & Falcon:
https://docs.google....mv5h_30dw33vpf4
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And if you can hook it up to your network use xellous to dump the kv and nand, i couldnt get any matching dumps via lpt but using http i got 3 identical and its fast, about 30 secs for each dump.
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To add to that, there's a good chance the E74 you're getting is related to a bad NAND/ E71. I've had that myself on a BNIB Jasper, and was quicky resolved by 'sorting' the NAND issue.
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QUOTE(hangover @ Feb 6 2011, 03:39 PM)

Just use the pre patched smc file that is linked to Loookuy's jtag post, i couldnt be arsed patching my own so used the pre made ones and they work fine - once you put them in the right freeboot folder.
Ok thanks a million!!! i finnaly after 4 days have signs of a jtagged xbox. i am getting xellous on the tv when either power or eject is pressed. i have flashed xbr on the xbox, flashed kv, and than i just flashed xellous. is there an easy way i can boot into the xbr or do i have to keep following instructions on that tut.
Freeboot is not working for me on 2 computers.. it goes to 38% dump has not been properly extracted reason is unknown.
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QUOTE(tk_saturn @ Feb 7 2011, 09:32 AM)

That's because because the diode is on the wrong end of your cable, as I posted before.
Read the readme file which comes with NandPro, it needs to be motherboard side. Tiros (author of NandPro) has repeatedly stated this.
If you are unable to get matching dumps via LPT due to your LPT lead, then even Flashing Xellous is risky. You could easily get an error writing Xellous, hence the issue with the LPT should be resolved first or be replaced with a USB reader. Even if you dump using Xellous, you still need that good first 2MB to reconstruct your original NAND.
Could be, cable works fine with the xenon's i've done. Will be updating to a usb reader soon.
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well I found the 2N3904, rewired everything from scratch, everything seems good, used the DB1F1, it gives good continuity to the alternate points (tho both alternate points in the bottom no longer have solder on them and they seem like the been "lifted" a little bit) everything seems in place, but I still get E79 every time
I can read the nand and write it no problem I have read 5 copies of the nand all of them with 0 bad blocks and 0 differences, I read the KV to inject it to the free60.bin about 15 times, all of them with 0 differences, if I write the original nand the xbox works correctly.
I used a pre-patched SMC file from the tutorial, and even created one following the same tutorial
do you guys think that the damage on the alternate points is the problem? or am I just creating the free60.bin incorrectly? I've read other tutorials where they don't mention injecting the KV should I try just flashing the pre-patched SMC xellous without the KV ?
any help will be very appreciated, I am losing my mind!
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Aug 21 2010, 05:43 AM)

Here is my newest tutorial. A video is coming soon too.
VIEW THIS TUTORIAL IN HIGH RES - CLICK HERE
Does this method replace the need to Jtag with Xecuter JTAG Connection Kit? I do not know if you need both or one only. This is an alternate method?
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QUOTE(bdlaney @ Feb 10 2011, 12:37 PM)

Does this method replace the need to Jtag with Xecuter JTAG Connection Kit? I do not know if you need both or one only. This is an alternate method?
Yes it is an alternate method, you only need a few $$ worth of components .
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i had jtagged my falcon using this tut and by following this one
it has the newest kinect dash and i had this xbox working with no problems for about a week when i just got the e79 error with a sec code of 1033. i unplugged the hdd, wires, and left it alone and still a no go. i read so many different fixes and all of them dont mention this way of doing the jtag with transistors. i would like to know what are the fixes for e79 using this method of jtag or is there no difference? can i just flash my orignal nand back over to the xbox and start over without having to remove all the wires? or can i just reflash over the free60.bin file see if that fixes it? im at a loss at what to do. i have all the files i believe i need like my original nand,kv and etc. any help would be appreciated... thanks
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ok... i flashed the original nand back to the xbox with the jtag wires in place and it booted up fine. i then remade all the files from Looouky's guide i linked to in my previous post but when i try to start over with the flashing of xellous i end up getting the e79 error again. would there be something wrong with the premade files linked to in that tut?i dont understand what im doing wrong. ive had this xbox working fine for a few days and this isnt my first time doing the jtag hack but it is my first doing the transistor method of the hack. im at a loss at what i need to do next. please, any help would be appreciated or a updated tut with updated files and such would be helpful. thanks
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QUOTE(MadBoxer @ Nov 13 2010, 02:22 AM)

Boxxdr,
I went ahead and posted the photo on photobucket. This is a couple views of the Xenon board I just finished with the transistor method. Hopefully this will help clear up some of the confusion people are having. Feel free to host it on boxxdr.com and add it as an example in your tutorial if you want. All that I ask is that you give me credit for the photo example. I can also supply you with hi-res versions if you need it. You may also notice, I used 1/8w resistors and it works flawless! I like how clean it is with 1/8w ones.

Thanks for this. Did a xenon this way the other day and works great.
Also to anyone who does a Xenon this way, you don't have to patch the SMC or anything.
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QUOTE(BoNg420 @ Feb 22 2011, 08:39 AM)

Thanks for this. Did a xenon this way the other day and works great.
Also to anyone who does a Xenon this way, you don't have to patch the SMC or anything.
Nice job! So how did it turn out? Pictures?
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Feb 28 2011, 04:05 PM)

Nice job! So how did it turn out? Pictures?
Went well. I have been using your method for JTAGs and now this one for Xenons. It was a customers box and sent back already so no pics. Did another xenon the other day this way but its sold already.
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So.....I have a Falcon. JTAG'ed it awhile ago. I had a few random freezes, I decided to rewire using this method.
My DB1F1 pad was lifted in my first attempt to JTAG, so I used FT1U2. While removing my wiring from the old JTAG, you guessed it, I lifted FT1U2.
No big deal right, I have the alt point shown in the tutorial. Guess what, I had the connection all made and I burned myself with the iron and pulled the pad off. I am not using a very powerful iron.
I can get a fiberglass pen and connect to the FT1U2 trace, I was just wondering if anyone had a better idea.
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QUOTE(stevec25 @ Mar 5 2011, 05:08 PM)

First off, great tutorial, Boxxdr, appreciate the time and effort that went into this

I'm currently running a falcon using the more "traditional" method with diodes.
I found a few transistors in my rummage pile, and found a few that are labelled "2n3904-313" whereas the transistors in the pictures are labelled "2N3904-331." Juding by the datasheets, they're interchangeable, but would appreciate confirmation by someone who knows more about this stuff than I do.
Thanks again

Thanks!
The transistors you have are fine.
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QUOTE(eriksson25 @ Mar 9 2011, 06:56 AM)

Need some help, I rewired my Jasper yesterday to this wireing. Using aud_clamp. But I forgot to reflash my box with a hacked smc before I did it. So when trying to start the console I have only solid green, no errors but no picture. And no xell eather.
What can I do? Do I have to solder back the usb cables to fix this or is there an easier way?
/KG
Extract your smc.bin with 360 flash tool
you will have a 2 files smc_dec.bin and smc_enc.bin, you dont need the enc one.
get the program SMC_IO, put it in the directory with your smc_dec.bin
Get to a DOS prompt and at command prompt type SMC_IO smc_dec.bin smc.bin
Run that FreeBOOT tool with the pink pig and select make custom freeboot
Do everything else as normal, enter your CPU key, etc
Then a directory will pop up and there will be some message in freeboot maker
copy your patched smc.bin to the data directory, its ok to overwrite the one in there.
Then click OK on the freeboot maker message after copying over your smc.bin
Then you will have to connect your programmer again and flash since you can't access your JTAG now.
Another way you can apply your patched SMC
Follow steps above, but instead of choosing make custom freeboot, you can make your freeboot as normal, but then get sbtool.exe, get to command prompt and have your smc.bin and freeBOOT.bin in the same directory. Get to dos prompt and type sbtool i smc.bin freeBOOT.bin
Yes you will have to solder back your programmer.
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QUOTE(eriksson25 @ Mar 10 2011, 09:20 AM)

Thanks man, just a question. I got the program smc_util_1v2 is that the same program? the comand you gave be didnt work it says that smc_io not recognized as command.
Just wanted to check so I dont do anything stupid. Thanks for your advice
yea there is a program just called smc_io.exe it should be in the tools directory of that SMC util
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QUOTE(BoNg420 @ Mar 10 2011, 04:05 PM)

yea there is a program just called smc_io.exe it should be in the tools directory of that SMC util
Oki, I downloded SMC_io.exe v0.2a
But when I run it, it says "error couldent find TMS data pattern"
I would Also like to implement the Play'N'Charge fix that has been relesed. Any idees of what I am doing wrong? The smc I use is directly extracted from my orig.bin.
Tanks for the help =)
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QUOTE(eriksson25 @ Mar 10 2011, 11:50 AM)

Oki, I downloded SMC_io.exe v0.2a
But when I run it, it says "error couldent find TMS data pattern"
I would Also like to implement the Play'N'Charge fix that has been relesed. Any idees of what I am doing wrong? The smc I use is directly extracted from my orig.bin.
Tanks for the help =)
Try extracting the SMC from freeBOOT
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QUOTE(eriksson25 @ Mar 10 2011, 11:50 AM)

Oki, I downloded SMC_io.exe v0.2a
But when I run it, it says "error couldent find TMS data pattern"
I would Also like to implement the Play'N'Charge fix that has been relesed. Any idees of what I am doing wrong? The smc I use is directly extracted from my orig.bin.
Tanks for the help =)
SMC_io is old,
you should be using smc_util_1v2 if you want all of the latest fixes.
contact me in PM and i will make you a proper smc.bin for your wiring.
QUOTE(DiamondKing1976 @ Mar 10 2011, 11:48 AM)

OK I think I scraped my FT1U2 well enough to get solder to stick. I soldered to the trace and hot glued the wire in place.
I am getting a constant e79 no matter how I update. I can not get Xellous to run.
In the picture below, did I bridge those solder balls? Some pictures I have seen have 3 tiny solder balls. This is a Falcon board.

Yes, you bridged them. Remove the bridge and try again.
Why are you not using the alternate point i have suggested in my tutorial?
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QUOTE(DiamondKing1976 @ Mar 10 2011, 01:15 PM)

Come on, why else wouldn't I use the alt point? LOL. I lifted the pad, I am getting real good at doing that!
Thanks for the help. I will see what that does.
If all else fails, could I solder to the middle point in the bridge?
If you lifted the pad i suggested in my tutorial then it breaks the circuit for both FT1U2 and DB1F1
I have fixed this for customers in the past and i took some pictures. I used a lenline fibreglass brush to prepare the trace and lined up a tiny AWG30 kynar wire to then trace then added some flux and touched it with my soldering iron with a drop of solder already on the tip. The results were very good and this console is still working today. This console actually had 5 more broken traces and missing SMD's


You might want to hire a pro to fix this now because you are running out of options to fix this but if you want to fix it yourself thats what has to be done.
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Just wanted to say THANK YOU to both of you. This method was VERY easy and the pictures/video made it even easier to actually do.
Just a little confused on the software part...I'm noob when it comes to all this "smc" talk...do I have to do anything special?
All I did was load up the latest JTAG Tool and selected the "aud_clamp" option [not the "aud_clamp & dvd" option] and I made a 12611 freeboot with my cpu key and flashed it. I don't have to do any smc patching or anything?
New dash loads of fine and seems to be running well, thanks again! Much appreciated.
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QUOTE(Blackaddr @ Mar 10 2011, 07:04 PM)

Very nice rework

Thank you Blackaddr. You should have seen the rest of it. Every jtag point and alt point was butchered including the nand read points.
QUOTE(sean222 @ Mar 11 2011, 07:18 PM)

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to both of you. This method was VERY easy and the pictures/video made it even easier to actually do.
Just a little confused on the software part...I'm noob when it comes to all this "smc" talk...do I have to do anything special?
All I did was load up the latest JTAG Tool and selected the "aud_clamp" option [not the "aud_clamp & dvd" option] and I made a 12611 freeboot with my cpu key and flashed it. I don't have to do any smc patching or anything?
New dash loads of fine and seems to be running well, thanks again! Much appreciated.
Because the jtag tool you used has a built in feature for aud_clamp smc patch you don't need to do anything else. I prefer to use bestpigs tool and it requires manual replacement of the smc.bin file. I keep bugging best pig to add that feature to his tool and even sent him a little donation but still he hasn't added it even though anyone that is doing these jtag's the right way is using aud_clamp and the transistor method.
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ok, I'm trying to finish up a tutorial guide for jtagging (mostly for myself but might release it to others)
Using the boxxdr method layed out in this thread, you can install this on all exploitable motherboard revisions (jasper, falcon, and xenon) but the wiring has to lead to different points for a xenon board correct? (they would be wired to the spots as directed by Mad.Boxer in his photo right?)
Also, when doing this boxxdr method, you would use jtag tool and tell it to use the SMD AUD_CLAMP mod....but this isn't needed on the xenons correct?
Thanks again and I hope I have the info correct.
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QUOTE(syst3merror @ Mar 13 2011, 05:37 PM)

ok, I'm trying to finish up a tutorial guide for jtagging (mostly for myself but might release it to others)
Using the boxxdr method layed out in this thread, you can install this on all exploitable motherboard revisions (jasper, falcon, and xenon) but the wiring has to lead to different points for a xenon board correct? (they would be wired to the spots as directed by Mad.Boxer in his photo right?)
Also, when doing this boxxdr method, you would use jtag tool and tell it to use the SMD AUD_CLAMP mod....but this isn't needed on the xenons correct?
Thanks again and I hope I have the info correct.
Yup, you got it all right.
We don't use aud_clamp on Xenons because thet already have the perfect signal lines for the jtag. We are using the same signal lines we always have just doing it with the flawless transistor method.
Please send me a link to your tutorial before you release it. That is if you would like my input on it. 
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awesome thanks! I will definitely send you the guide that I am making....feel free to let me know anything you see that might be wrong or needs improvement!
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Hi , nice wiring
i have just jtagged using this method and my wiring looks like this

But iam having trouble sorting the SMC signals
Console is a falcon with 6xxx dash
I downloaded and used a patched SMC Xell from the link in this thread , this gave me my CPU key
but when i try to make a freeboot with either Jtagtool using the AUD_clamp option or the bestpig i always get an error
ok i have jtagged a few falcons before with the old method and had to convert to xbr then use either tool
i tried this but it gave me E79
I am now using the "update my SMC" tool to patch to the correct points but i keep getting E79
can anyone give me some advice on how to get this xbox working , maybe a tut about patching the SMC to be correct ?
Thanks
Slim
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Hi there. I had jtagged 5 xboxes (1 falcons and 4 zephyrs) with this guide and every one of them now got RRoD. Three 0102 (3 zephyrs), 0020 (Zephyr) and 0001 (falcon). I'm pretty sure that all nands were the right ones, because when i flashed freeboot on this consoles they worked for one to five minutes each, except for 0001 falcon, xell worked on all consoles.
I can't understand, is this really a way to bad luck or something wrong with the tutorial. Did everything like in the tut.
Four of five consoles were with stock nand, one (0020 zephyr) was on freeboot already (with diode wiring to ARGON_DATA). 0001 on falcon is really strange, checked everything then flashed stock nand back and undone jtag - still 0001.
Flashed stock nands and undone jtag on every console and all of them are still dead with same error codes.
All of this is very strange, becausw with this five xboxes i did 3 xenons on transistor wiring and all of them are still works. Please help me, I really dont know what to do (I think reball is the only solution
).
P.S: my english is still bad, sorry for this.
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I have question about the transistor method. I have already jtagged my falcon using diodes (1N4148) and used DB1F1 and AUD_CLAMP, so my SMC is already patched to aud_clamp.
I am getting random E79, so wanna use the transistors instead, but do I need to flash again using the LPT cable, when my SMC is patched? or can I just safely use this method without changing any software? (I cut the cables the first time
)
I would prefer using BAT41 diodes if I need to flash..
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QUOTE(sizanx @ Apr 16 2011, 10:25 AM)

I have question about the transistor method. I have already jtagged my falcon using diodes (1N4148) and used DB1F1 and AUD_CLAMP, so my SMC is already patched to aud_clamp.
I am getting random E79, so wanna use the transistors instead, but do I need to flash again using the LPT cable, when my SMC is patched? or can I just safely use this method without changing any software? (I cut the cables the first time

)
I would prefer using BAT41 diodes if I need to flash..
As long as you're using the same points, you don't need to update the smc.
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Sadly the new Jtag tool does not have support for just Aud_Clamp...
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QUOTE(MadBoxer @ Nov 13 2010, 08:22 AM)

Boxxdr,
I went ahead and posted the photo on photobucket. This is a couple views of the Xenon board I just finished with the transistor method. Hopefully this will help clear up some of the confusion people are having. Feel free to host it on boxxdr.com and add it as an example in your tutorial if you want. All that I ask is that you give me credit for the photo example. I can also supply you with hi-res versions if you need it. You may also notice, I used 1/8w resistors and it works flawless! I like how clean it is with 1/8w ones.

ok so by looking at this picture we can use ALL ORIGINAL solder points correnct? i really dont want to screw around with all the AUD_CLAMP stuff and what not just want my JTAG to work lol
want to read about some of the problems i have had read on this thread over here: http://www.team-xecu...ead.php?t=55211
this zepher has been nothing but a pain in my ass i just now decided to pick up the JTAG project again because i got so aggravated by it at first
also a side note it appears to me that this transistor method is a refined method of this image i seen while looking for other ways to wire the JTAG

any one ever try the above method with just a 100ohm resistor, and if so any luck?
also not i have seen freeboot load on my system the only reason i undid what was working becaus it wasent working 100% reliable so i know its exploitable just working out the kinks is the issue
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Hello.
I was thinking for a while to jtag my falcon. Then I checked my 'spare-parts box' looking for required transistors and resistors.
So here is my question. I didn't found 2n3904 transistor, but someone stated that almost any 'npn' is okay.
I have these:
- 2n5551
- bc337-25
- c945 gc008
Is it fine to use them?
Can any shit happen if something will go wrong? I mean I want to try soldering them, then try to read nand and if I won't be able to get it I will just unsolder all the shit and get back to using ix1.6 
Am I doing right?
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After i do the hardware mod will my xbox still load? I think I can do the motherboard work but I dont know anything about software any help would be awesome thanks.
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Ok...
To yse AUD_CLAMP.. what do you have to do with your smc.bin file i grab from best pig?
I copied out the smc.bin file.. ran that smc_io smc_old.bin smc.bin and copied the new smc.bin in to bestpig, completed the image...
updated the flash.. worked fine (I still have the diodes connected!) rebooted the xbox, and it booted fine in to xellous and the new dash.. however, i didnt think that should happen until I installed the transistors and used the new points?? Am i missing something? lol
EDIT: only thing i can think of is I accidently copied the original smc.bin back by mistake lol
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QUOTE(Romen @ May 11 2011, 10:24 PM)

Ok...
To yse AUD_CLAMP.. what do you have to do with your smc.bin file i grab from best pig?
I copied out the smc.bin file.. ran that smc_io smc_old.bin smc.bin and copied the new smc.bin in to bestpig, completed the image...
updated the flash.. worked fine (I still have the diodes connected!) rebooted the xbox, and it booted fine in to xellous and the new dash.. however, i didnt think that should happen until I installed the transistors and used the new points?? Am i missing something? lol
EDIT: only thing i can think of is I accidently copied the original smc.bin back by mistake lol
Ok, issue fixed lol... It was because i didnt power cycle ;-)
At first i thought i stuffed the transistor method up.. but realised i soldered the wrong point for the AUD_CLUMP.
Seems to work fine! Now to remove that resister and reseat the heatsinks.. and its all done!!!
BIG BIG thanks to Boxxdr, Blackaddr and the Xbox-Scene community
The heatshrink really does hide my shi.. i mean, give a professional look
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For anyone with a Zephyr with CB 4580.
I had got one in the other day and I did this method for it. I got some help with this because I thought I was doing something wrong with the files I was flashing to the JTAG. I had read about needing falcon files for it. I had another member on here assisting me. I was running out of hope for this thing. When I flashed the falcon files I kept getting E79 or black screens. I redid my wiring, with no help.
Frustrated beyond all, I looked around on google and found another wiring diagram for JTAGs. I located the alternate DB1F1 point on top of the motherboard by where the HDD plugs into on the motherboard. I removed my wire from the bottom DB1F1 point and soldered it to the top one. I had just flashed xellous for falcon with patched SMC and KV and had previously got E79. So after changing my wiring to the top DB1F1 point I turned on the 360 with eject and a few seconds later, success! Xellous booted and I finally got the CPU key.
I also was told that you need falcon donor files to make a freeboot, but found an easier way. I got the latest best pig freeboot toolbox, I deselected automatically detect motherboard and chose falcon, then chose make custom image so I can put in my patched SMC, then once that was done flashed freeboot and working without issues.
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see any issue with using mps2222arlrm npn transistors(its what I have, else have to order:P)?
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2x 10K ohm ¼ watt resistors
2x 2N3904 Transistors
trying to find these two items anyone have radioshack part numbers? or can tell me if this is them please
http://www.radioshac...m/product/index ... d=2062609#
http://www.radioshac...m/product/index ... d=2062609#
or if any one has any other place to get this stuff and can point me in the right direction that would be great thanks
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So I was using the reverse JTAG on my Jasper and I started experiencing ROL issues, controllers not syncing, and failure to boot issues. I missed an important part of this tutorial and did the rewire BEFORE reflashing. Now in order to flash do I need to undo everything and go back to how it was with the diodes or can I use the transistors as-is and just change the wires back to DB1F1 and the ROL point, flash, then rewire?
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I got a reply back from BoXXDr that said "Yes, just use the transistors and you only need to move aud_clamp to ROL point." That being said I am instead just going to use nandpro to write the updflash.bin with the correct SMC and then I shouldn't have to redo any of the wiring. Thanks for your help BoXXDr!!
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Worked like a champ. Unfortunately I lost my profiles and all my save games from my Jasper's internal memory. Oh well, at least it boots now.
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Totaal newbie to posting!I am not new to jtagging but eventually everybody runs into that one that beats them.Well i found one..it is a xenon with an explotiable kernal 1902.I have done multiple dumps with no bad blocks or non matching.I am using an lpt homemade cable.I have done at least 15 jtags with it...not alot but enough to know its not the cable..I keep getting an e79 error no matter what i flash to it,whether it is xbr or freeboot!!???I can then turn around and reflash with an original dump and boots fine.I have tried several different jtag wiring setups to always get the e79...except this one!!?Has anybody that has done this on a xenon were you experiencing e79 issues b4 you did?
Thanks and great tut...i am waiting on parts to try this on a falcon i just got fresh off ebay!!!
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Is there a guide to do this on a Xenon? I have the old jtag wiring, but my 360 has been rebooting during games and I'm wondering if another method would help.
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Hi m8t going to do my first JTAG and doing some research, came across your post... want to say!! like MS factory
Grade A work
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Hi, thanks for your work!
At the shop they didn't have 2N3904 instead they sold me this:
C546a >>> Datasheet http://www.datasheet.../4/BC546A.shtml
2N304>>> Datasheet for comparison http://www.datasheet.../9/2N3904.shtml

These are for Jasper installation.
Let's check Xenon diagram too, my old Xenon with 2 diodes on cold boots usually gets E79, and it's a pain in the ass reconfiguring Kinect each time :S
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Used this methon successfully on a xenon motherboard with E79 (with diodes).
However my Jasper didn't boot xell with this diagram 
Transistors:

Bridge:

Aud_Clamp:

Alternative DB1F1:

I'll try with DB1F1 point on top, if it boots successful.
Jasper BB MFR Date: 2009-04-08
Dashboard 7371
CB_A 6723
With original nand, boots ok. (JTAG installed).
Any tip?
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AutoGG Problem generating nand, with J-runner works perfect!
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The image links on OP's post are broken. Please fix them so I'm not going in blind! thanks for the tutorial though!
-I'll just follow the video tutorial, but the image host seems to be offline-
awesome video tutorial btw.