Post by: sabbath_dude on September 12, 2009, 09:26:00 AM
.Anyway, the plan is to create one neat and tidy cable that can be used to dump and flash your 360's NAND by simply plugging into a specially created Ethernet port. The benefits of this are that the cable can be used on multiple 360's without the need for resoldering or messy wires hanging out your box.
What you'll need
RJ45 Ethernet Network LAN Cable Extension Adapter - I bought mine on eBay at £3 for 10
Standard Cat5 patch cable (Not a crossover cable, see HERE about the difference)
D-Sub hood 25-way - I bought mine in Maplin for about £1.60 part #FP29G
DB25 25-way male plug - I bought mine in Maplin for about £1.50 part #YQ48C
Other things you'll need are 5x100 ohm resistors and possibly some zip ties for securing your wiring.
The idea here is pretty simple. All you're going to do is match the colours marked on the Xbox motherboard with the db25 plug. But instead of going straight from one to the other you're going to have an Ethernet cable extender in the middle. This will allow you to unplug/connect you're 360 to your PC quickly and whenever you want.
Cut your Cat5 cable in half and prepare both ends for soldering. I recommend keeping the cable between your Xbox and PC as short as possible. After a bit of trial and error I found 35-40cm to be about right. The cable inside your Xbox should also be as short as possible.
Solder your wires to the Xbox motherboard following my diagram above. Find a good spot to place your Ethernet extender and secure it in place. I cut a hole in the metal shielding behind the DVD drive and hot glued the extender in place. I then cut a small hole on the outer case under the hard drive to allow easy access to the port whenever needed. When not in use the port is hidden under the hard drive.
Next you need to solder the other half of your Cat5 cable to the DB25 plug. Be careful to match up with the correct wires you soldered to the 360's motherboard!. Depending on your PC you may or may not need to install some 100 ohm resistors on pins 1,2,14,16 and 17. Some people will get away without them but in my case the NAND would not dump correctly unless I had resistors in place. You may also need to fit a switching diode to pin 11 if you are not getting the correct FlashConfig (normal config being 0x1198010). I had no issues so there was no need for me to fit the diode.
Just so there is no confusion on which pin is which.....
Fit your D-sub hood and you're all done
.
*Update*
I just wanted to add some pics of the interesting configurations/variations people have come up with to dump and flash their 360's....
Reusable easy solder solution by garlon
http://img192.images...85/lptcable.jpg
My easy solder cat5 attachment using garlon's idea
http://i784.photobuc..._dude6/att3.jpg
http://i784.photobuc..._dude6/att2.jpg
http://i784.photobuc..._dude6/att1.jpg
Super clean low profile solution by fahrenheit
http://i3.photobucke...it/RJ45_PCB.jpg
http://i3.photobucke...VDclearance.jpg
http://i3.photobucke...it/LPTwired.jpg
http://i3.photobucke...FinishedLPT.jpg
Integrated nand write protect switch by Chemodile
http://i195.photobuc...p-internalS.jpg
http://i195.photobuc...i_nwp-sideS.jpg
http://i195.photobuc...i_nwp-caseS.jpg
http://i195.photobuc..._swp-cableS.jpg
Post by: 4NZ33 on September 12, 2009, 09:31:00 AM
Very Nice.
Post by: Relapse75 on September 12, 2009, 12:16:00 PM
Post by: sabbath_dude on September 12, 2009, 01:17:00 PM
Similar to what I did but yours looks much more neat than mine.
Very Nice.
. This is cool and all makes it easy to flash, but you do know that the new version of Xell is update-able via a USB drive. And you should never have to connect to the pc again, there is even a fail safe where you can revert from a bad update using the back usb port. I have removed the LPT flashing hardware from my boxes just because of this.
. The other main benefit I find is being able to use the same cable to quickly switch from one 360 to another. Before I had to desolder/resolder which was a pain in the balls and wasted time.Besides that I personally haven't had much luck in getting Xell to update from USB. I realise it's early days yet and things will no doubt become more stable/streamlined but it's still nice to have permanent, quick and easy access to the NAND.
Post by: Cisk on October 08, 2009, 11:33:00 AM
Thanks, will be doing this later.
Post by: eyric101 on November 23, 2009, 11:30:00 AM
Post by: amexie on November 23, 2009, 01:10:00 PM
so much easier than making a cable aswell
Post by: ffriozi on November 24, 2009, 04:44:00 PM
i have a question... i have xbox Model JASPER 512 mb. what is this? do i need do this?
Thanks !
Post by: Poopchute on November 24, 2009, 04:51:00 PM
Post by: ffriozi on November 24, 2009, 04:55:00 PM
Post by: akirhol on November 24, 2009, 09:42:00 PM
Thanks for posting this!
I did have a question though, other tuts reference using a switching diode on one of the solder points... I did it without and it worked fine on my Xenon board... is this a requirement for later boards? Is there a specific purpose for it?
This post has been edited by akirhol: Nov 25 2009, 05:45 AM
Post by: YaPaY on November 25, 2009, 06:33:00 AM
First Thanks A lot !!!
i have a question... i have xbox Model JASPER 512 mb. what is this? do i need do this?
Thanks !
Same question here. I have Falcon board.
Post by: ffriozi on November 25, 2009, 09:58:00 AM
Same question here. I have Falcon board.
bro that is for Jtag exploit !! dont work anymore so dont worry
Post by: Poopchute on November 26, 2009, 12:43:00 AM
Post by: YaPaY on November 26, 2009, 05:57:00 AM
I don't understand why people are sayin that's for the JTAG thing don't worry... Isn't that what we're doin this for?
Confused
Should I make Jtag thing, too for hdd uncripple or not. I'm newbie and really confused. And second question which ethernet color to where. (orange-white, orange, green-white etc.)
I opened case and I'm waiting for a reply. If JTAG thing neceassary I will give up.
Post by: mikits on November 26, 2009, 08:05:00 AM
Post by: mastah on November 26, 2009, 08:47:00 AM
QUOTE(mikits @ Nov 26 2009, 04:05 PM) 
Nope, but this is http://oomipood.ee/?..._ki&i=1/4W 100R
100K is 100000 ohm ( you need 100ohm only)
mastah
look at this http://www.ue-soft.d...on/ccode001.pdf
Post by: mikits on November 26, 2009, 08:54:00 AM
Nope, but this is http://oomipood.ee/?t=k_ki&i=1%2F4W%20100R
100K is 100000 ohm ( you need 100ohm only)
mastah
Thx
Post by: sabbath_dude on November 26, 2009, 06:11:00 PM
QUOTE(akirhol @ Nov 25 2009, 04:42 AM)
Loooove this tutorial... I did this on Sunday and it worked out perfectly. I didn't leave the coupler in the case though, just tucked the network cable in under the DVD drive.
Thanks for posting this!
I did have a question though, other tuts reference using a switching diode on one of the solder points... I did it without and it worked fine on my Xenon board... is this a requirement for later boards? Is there a specific purpose for it?
. As for the switching diode, I believe it is only needed if you're having problems getting your PC to see the 360's nand. Mine worked fine without so there was no need to fit one.QUOTE(Poopchute @ Nov 26 2009, 07:43 AM)
I don't understand why people are sayin that's for the JTAG thing don't worry... Isn't that what we're doin this for?
QUOTE(YaPaY @ Nov 26 2009, 12:57 PM)
Confused
Should I make Jtag thing, too for hdd uncripple or not. I'm newbie and really confused. And second question which ethernet color to where. (orange-white, orange, green-white etc.)
I opened case and I'm waiting for a reply. If JTAG thing neceassary I will give up.
And it doesn't matter which colours you choose from the Ethernet cable just as long as the correct pins on the DB25 are connected to the corresponding points on the motherboard. Just follow the diagram and you can't really go wrong.....
Post by: z3r0 i7 on November 27, 2009, 02:00:00 AM
Post by: sabbath_dude on November 27, 2009, 03:38:00 AM
QUOTE(z3r0 i7 @ Nov 27 2009, 09:00 AM)
hi since i don't want to make another topic just for one question
anyone know whats the difference between the diagram on the first page and this one which one is better?
Post by: Juli1000 on November 27, 2009, 03:50:00 AM
Post by: sabbath_dude on November 27, 2009, 11:43:00 AM
QUOTE(Juli1000 @ Nov 27 2009, 10:50 AM)
In your solution you leaf the diode (1n4148) away. Don´t you need it because you are using a RJ45 Ethernet Network LAN Cable Extension Adapter?
Post by: thwack on November 27, 2009, 02:56:00 PM
Big up the Weegie
Post by: TorchMach1 on November 27, 2009, 03:04:00 PM
Post by: pwnsweet on November 27, 2009, 07:19:00 PM
Post by: sabbath_dude on November 28, 2009, 09:58:00 AM
. Should hopefully make it a little less confusing and give a better idea of what the end goal is.QUOTE(thwack @ Nov 27 2009, 09:56 PM)
Forgot to thank you for this one! Been using it on me old Xenon for neatness since you popped it up!
Big up the Weegie
QUOTE(TorchMach1 @ Nov 27 2009, 10:04 PM)
If you want to flash back to original, is it safe to leave everything soldered up and use your xbox on live?
QUOTE(pwnsweet @ Nov 28 2009, 02:19 AM)
If I make a NAND backup and then upgrade my firmware/dashboard, can I restore my NAND and thus downgrade my firmware to what it was when I made the backup?
Post by: Chemodile on November 29, 2009, 12:14:00 AM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Nov 28 2009, 08:58 AM) 
I've updated the first post and tutorial with some better pics and extra info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) . Should hopefully make it a little less confusing and give a better idea of what the end goal is.
Thanks for the new pics, the coupler under the hard drive is pretty slick. The ginormous glob of hot glue, not so much.
Post by: mikits on November 29, 2009, 07:21:00 AM
. Is there anything I should know about solderin?
Post by: sabbath_dude on November 29, 2009, 07:51:00 AM
QUOTE(Chemodile @ Nov 29 2009, 07:14 AM)
Thanks for the new pics, the coupler under the hard drive is pretty slick. The ginormous glob of hot glue, not so much.
.QUOTE(mikits @ Nov 29 2009, 02:21 PM)
Well today I tried. Solderin DB25 plug was easy, but soldering wires to X360 is impossible
. Is there anything I should know about solderin?
.
Post by: Savio on November 29, 2009, 01:06:00 PM
does it go to the DB25 plug ? or somewhere on the Mobo?
Post by: TheGlow on November 29, 2009, 01:19:00 PM
Im not seeing it on radioshack.com
Someone needs to premake these so we just need to solder on.
Post by: whaevr on November 29, 2009, 02:22:00 PM
I just finished soldering to the motherboard...talk about nerves man lol (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9179/xboxsolder.th.jpg)
Crap camera=crap pic haha
@TheGlow
I got one just like it from radioshack today, search part number 276-1547
This post has been edited by whaevr: Nov 29 2009, 10:24 PM
Post by: Chemodile on November 29, 2009, 04:52:00 PM
QUOTE(TheGlow @ Nov 29 2009, 12:19 PM)
Whered you get that nice db25 connector? Id like one like that to put the resistors safely in. I made the usb to 360 memcard wire and my resistors and wires are always snapping off.
Im not seeing it on radioshack.com
Someone needs to premake these so we just need to solder on.
Here and here at radioshack.
Post by: whaevr on November 29, 2009, 05:20:00 PM
Post by: whaevr on November 29, 2009, 09:13:00 PM
...turns out I forgot to plug the xbox into power..heh....
I'm still amazed I did the mod correctly
Post by: bmwbmwbmw on December 01, 2009, 05:00:00 AM
Post by: phrozenfeonix on December 01, 2009, 09:30:00 AM
Not worth it, if you can just have the hdd conceal the plug.
Post by: jayman81 on December 02, 2009, 09:36:00 PM
Can you tell me which coloured wires on the cat 5 cable go to which colour on the xbox 360 mobo and also on the DB25 connector or it doesnt matter.
Thanks,
Post by: fwibble on December 03, 2009, 09:54:00 AM
I'm going to give this guide a bash but have a quick n00by question, the guide shows the usage of only 7 wires (if i'm reading it correctly), however the RJ45 cable has 8 wires, do you just snip/tap up the spare wire, aslong as you use the same wires for both the 360 and the dsub?
Post by: cuberob on December 03, 2009, 02:50:00 PM
QUOTE(fwibble @ Dec 3 2009, 05:54 PM)
Hi first time poster
I'm going to give this guide a bash but have a quick n00by question, the guide shows the usage of only 7 wires (if i'm reading it correctly), however the RJ45 cable has 8 wires, do you just snip/tap up the spare wire, aslong as you use the same wires for both the 360 and the dsub?
yes, pretty much. You can just leave that wire unused/unsoldered.
Just used this guide 3 days ago, worked like a charm! So thanks a lot!
I did experience some problems (got all kinds of errors when reading the nand the first time) but then i shortened some wires and added the switching diode (dunno which helped, but i think it was shortening the wires) and then poof. It read my Nand like a charm.
I was actually quite amazed at what this motherboard can handle, im quite bad when it comes to soldering, screwed it up a couple of times and had to use the back of the motherboard because i fucked up the solder points on the front. But i eventually connected everything and got it to work! Anyway, i'm currently very happy with my uncrippled xbox! I now use this one offline and another xbox (unmodded) for all my online gaming (read MW2) and switch my profile for achievements and so on via a memory card. The Ideal setup for me!
Anyway, thanks again for the great tutorial
Post by: jayman81 on December 03, 2009, 02:57:00 PM
QUOTE(cuberob @ Dec 3 2009, 04:50 PM)
yes, pretty much. You can just leave that wire unused/unsoldered.
Just used this guide 3 days ago, worked like a charm! So thanks a lot!
I did experience some problems (got all kinds of errors when reading the nand the first time) but then i shortened some wires and added the switching diode (dunno which helped, but i think it was shortening the wires) and then poof. It read my Nand like a charm.
I was actually quite amazed at what this motherboard can handle, im quite bad when it comes to soldering, screwed it up a couple of times and had to use the back of the motherboard because i fucked up the solder points on the front. But i eventually connected everything and got it to work! Anyway, i'm currently very happy with my uncrippled xbox! I now use this one offline and another xbox (unmodded) for all my online gaming (read MW2) and switch my profile for achievements and so on via a memory card. The Ideal setup for me!
Anyway, thanks again for the great tutorial
Does it matter which coloured wired soldered on the motherboard?
Post by: sabbath_dude on December 03, 2009, 03:03:00 PM
QUOTE(Savio @ Nov 29 2009, 08:06 PM)
Hello, great tut - im getting ready to do it myself to get back my hdd ^^ I've got an question, if i will need an switching diode, where should it go? The other diags are not so clear for me and yours is great so maybe you'll explain it to me
does it go to the DB25 plug ? or somewhere on the Mobo?QUOTE(whaevr @ Nov 29 2009, 09:22 PM)
When I stripped open the cat5 cable there are 8 small wires in it, your pic is only using 7 of them, I'm guessing you just left that one blank right?
QUOTE(jayman81 @ Dec 3 2009, 04:36 AM)
Hi Sabbath Dude
Can you tell me which coloured wires on the cat 5 cable go to which colour on the xbox 360 mobo and also on the DB25 connector or it doesnt matter.
Thanks,
QUOTE(fwibble @ Dec 3 2009, 04:54 PM)
Hi first time poster
I'm going to give this guide a bash but have a quick n00by question, the guide shows the usage of only 7 wires (if i'm reading it correctly), however the RJ45 cable has 8 wires, do you just snip/tap up the spare wire, aslong as you use the same wires for both the 360 and the dsub?
, just choose a wire and snip it.Post by: jayman81 on December 03, 2009, 03:18:00 PM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Dec 3 2009, 05:03 PM)
If you need to install a diode then you should solder it directly to the DB-25 plug on pin 11 (same as with the resistors). Just make sure the black band is pointing towards the 360 end.
Yeah there's one extra wire. Just pick the one you don't want and snip it.
It doesn't matter, just as long as the points on the mobo are soldered to the corresponding DB-25 pins (just follow the diagram).
Correct (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) , just choose a wire and snip it.
Thanks Sabbath Dude!!
Post by: sabbath_dude on December 03, 2009, 03:34:00 PM
. If you still have trouble reading your NAND then you can try the following.Shorten the length of the cable (the shorter the better).
Lower the resistance. Instead of 100ohm try 50 or 60 etc. Even try without (at your own risk!).
Fit a switching diode to pin 11.
Remember to have the 360 plugged in but not switched on
Post by: jayman81 on December 03, 2009, 05:17:00 PM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Nov 29 2009, 09:51 AM)
You can never have too much hot glue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) .
Soldering is 10x easier if you use solder flux. Cover the points on the motherboard with a good amount of flux using a cotton bud and it should make things a lot easier. Also make sure your soldering iron is hot enough and that the tip has been tinned. Tinning the ends of the wires you're going to solder is also a big help. You can find some good videos on youtube if you need more soldering advice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) .
I got one more question for you Sabbath Dude. I'm not sure if plumbing flux is Ok to use when soldering to motherboard? Is there a different kind of fluxes you use?
Post by: phrozenfeonix on December 03, 2009, 09:57:00 PM
Post by: jayman81 on December 04, 2009, 09:27:00 AM
QUOTE(phrozenfeonix @ Dec 3 2009, 11:57 PM)
You should really shop for PCB Liquid Soldering Flux or Flux Paste. Plumber's flux is probably very similar, but I've heard some of the materials in the plumbing solder, etc. can be harmful to PCBs.
What about this Acid Paste Flux would that be Ok for the PCB?
Post by: Tommy 2 Gunz on December 04, 2009, 09:52:00 AM
Post by: Uther_Dark on December 04, 2009, 06:42:00 PM
Just any extra info would be helpful...
Post by: Tommy 2 Gunz on December 04, 2009, 07:13:00 PM
QUOTE(Uther_Dark @ Dec 4 2009, 08:42 PM)
Right, Total Noob here, Love what you have done, just one thing...I have NO IDEA what these diodes/switches look like, etc...I'm gonna hit up Radio Shack Shortly and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction, because most likely they won't have a clue either
Just any extra info would be helpful...Wish I was home to tell u the part number, but radio shack has part drawers labeled "resistor" dioide" etc so finding the parts shouldgnt be too hard unless you can't read
but for the switching diode, I found A package labeled "switching diode" in the diode draw good luck
Post by: Shaurya on December 04, 2009, 08:15:00 PM
Anyways now i can make this ethernet stuff and then, also update stuffs frm time to time.
Btw, mate can ya tell me if its possible to change the region of our console without infectus?
And also is that jtag necesarry, i think not cuz u would have mentioned it, then.
And if we need the diode then in which pin do we have to attatch it to?
Can we harm our x360 if we dont add diodes-resistors. Just to check if it works with our mobo without them or not?
I think we can check that if it doesnt read the nand correctly n- frm the status code u gave. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Cant we?
BTW, i see this is compatible the uncrippling of HDD.
Well i actually want to add the XBReboot v0.5. Do i need JTAG for that?
And also, my last update was Xbox live Preview Program for facebook etc. I am banned but didnt go online & my 360 is unaware of it.
Thanks
-Shaurya
This post has been edited by Shaurya: Dec 5 2009, 04:25 AM
Post by: keine on December 04, 2009, 11:13:00 PM
The Cat5 cable you are using, is it solid core or braided.
Mine is braided wire and I was wondering if this is a problem when soldering to the motherboard. In all the mods I've ever done, I've always used solid not braided wire.
Thanks.
This post has been edited by keine: Dec 5 2009, 07:13 AM
Post by: pipeme on December 05, 2009, 06:11:00 AM
Got a quick question about my sodlering pencil. I got a 45w unit that has a variable temperautre knob from 250 degrees celcius up to 450 degrees. Is this OK to use if I turn the temp down, or is it still too powerful since it is 45 watt?
If it is OK, what temperature would equate to the 15-20 watts that is recommended?
Thanks
Post by: Zheez on December 05, 2009, 10:01:00 AM
QUOTE(Shaurya @ Dec 5 2009, 03:15 AM)
Btw, mate can ya tell me if its possible to change the region of our console without infectus?
BTW, i see this is compatible the uncrippling of HDD.
Well i actually want to add the XBReboot v0.5. Do i need JTAG for that?
And also, my last update was Xbox live Preview Program for facebook etc. I am banned but didnt go online & my 360 is unaware of it.
You will not be able to change region or use XBReboot with that dash update. You will only be able to restore HD install functionality again so you won't need to solder the 3 JTAG resistors for that.
If you were hoping for homebrew on that box though, it's not happening unfortunately.
Post by: ToxIk42 on December 06, 2009, 01:42:00 AM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 06, 2009, 02:02:00 PM
QUOTE(keine @ Dec 5 2009, 06:13 AM)
I have a question.
The Cat5 cable you are using, is it solid core or braided.
Mine is braided wire and I was wondering if this is a problem when soldering to the motherboard. In all the mods I've ever done, I've always used solid not braided wire.
Thanks.
I would recommend solid core wire - multi-strand is harder to work with (since a strand could come loose and bridge a connection).
Post by: jayman81 on December 06, 2009, 10:55:00 PM
This post has been edited by jayman81: Dec 7 2009, 07:01 AM
Post by: sabbath_dude on December 07, 2009, 11:55:00 AM
QUOTE(keine @ Dec 5 2009, 06:13 AM)
The Cat5 cable you are using, is it solid core or braided.
QUOTE(jayman81 @ Dec 7 2009, 05:55 AM)
Is there an alternative way to this being solderless? I can't solder the wires on the mobo properly. Shaky hands.. LOL
.
Post by: vintage_guitar on December 07, 2009, 01:27:00 PM
This post has been edited by vintage_guitar: Dec 7 2009, 09:28 PM
Post by: jayman81 on December 07, 2009, 02:26:00 PM
QUOTE(vintage_guitar @ Dec 7 2009, 03:27 PM)
No, you have to solder. Sorry. However, it is easier to take the motherboard out of the chassis, and stand it upright. "Poke" the wire through the front pad by heating the pad on the back of the motherboard with the iron while you poke the through the front. Then clip excess that's sticking out with toenail clippers, so you dont create a short when putting it back into the chassis
I guess I'll wait I'm not going to brick a functional box. Thanks for your insight guys.
Post by: 360player on December 07, 2009, 07:36:00 PM
So when I'm looking at the color points for the pins are you talking about those being the front side of the plug and we solder on the back of those pins? Or are those the solder points on the backside of the plug and just solder using the picture and the solder points on the LPT25?
I just got done making mine and got it all taped up but I think I did it bass akwards. I used the colors and pin numbers from the backside of the plug or on the side you solder. Cause now if I turn it around its opposite of where they are supposed to be, I think.
Damn I'm usually really good about following instructions to the T but I think I boned this one up.
This post has been edited by 360player: Dec 8 2009, 03:44 AM
Post by: FalconLTD on December 07, 2009, 07:55:00 PM
Post by: 360player on December 07, 2009, 07:57:00 PM
(IMG:http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx86/wildturkeyone/IMG_0271.jpg)
The orange one is the #11 pin on the top.
This post has been edited by 360player: Dec 8 2009, 03:59 AM
Post by: 360player on December 07, 2009, 10:18:00 PM
Post by: ShinseiRyu on December 08, 2009, 12:05:00 AM
Trying now with the diode installed and so far only got one error 250. If I get more errors I will probably open the 360 back up and resolder all the points with my 15W iron.
Post by: ShinseiRyu on December 08, 2009, 10:51:00 AM
QUOTE(ShinseiRyu @ Dec 8 2009, 08:05 AM)
First setup got tons of errors. Thinking it could be the fact that I had a hard time soldering at 8W on my battery powered iron (had lots of trouble getting some of the points to melt on the board, finished the job with my outlet powered 15W radioshack iron), but I also had not installed the diode.
Trying now with the diode installed and so far only got one error 250. If I get more errors I will probably open the 360 back up and resolder all the points with my 15W iron.
Still got errors in normal mode then I tried Bi-directional mode and still got errors. Finally tried ECP mode and managed to make 3 dumps in a row with only one bad block (in the same place, 0xB everytime). All three dumps matched in Total Commander, injected KV and config into xbreboot and now my 360 is running happily.
Was also getting full errors after 0x200 until I switched to ECP mode.
Post by: b32b on December 08, 2009, 06:38:00 PM
Post by: Broka on December 09, 2009, 06:40:00 AM
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=341564
Post by: CrimsonIdol on December 09, 2009, 06:53:00 AM
Make the hole just a tad too small (a couple of millimeters will do) and make some "tracks" in the coupler. That way it stays put when you plug and unplug the wire. That, or just glue the damn thing to the inside of the case
Post by: ShinseiRyu on December 09, 2009, 11:21:00 AM
QUOTE(b32b @ Dec 9 2009, 02:38 AM)
what tool do you suggest I use to cut the hole in the xbox for the ethernet coupler?
Since I had the motherboard out of the casing I went ahead and used my dremel to cut a hole. Just make sure that you blow all of the metal shavings out and double check to make sure none are left in there.
Heavy wire cutter or metal cutter would definitely be cleaner though.
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 09, 2009, 11:46:00 AM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Dec 7 2009, 06:55 PM)
Mine was braided. But as Martinchris said, solid core is a better option. However I'm not too sure you'll find many cat5 cables that use solid core (although I could be wrong). Working with braided wire isn't a big challenge for this project though. The solder points are all relatively large and easy to access. When preparing the wire for soldering just expose the ends, twist, apply a small amount of flux, then use your soldering iron to apply a little bit of fresh solder. This will solder all the braids together and will make the job of attaching to the mothorboard much much easier.
You're right - most UTP cables are multi-strand. If you buy UTP cable from a reel for networking however, it will more than likely be solid core (since you'd be using a punch tool for pushing the cables into sockets). If you went for a 'make your own cable', there would still be work needed to either crimp a LAN plug to use with a coupler or go for something like this : http://www.maplin.co...e...O&U=strat15
It's swings and roundabouts really!
QUOTE(Broka @ Dec 9 2009, 01:40 PM)
Maplin codes:
M330R for 330Ohm resistors (x3)
M100R for LPT resistors (x5)
QL80B for Switching Diode (may be needed)
Maplins is nice n convenient, however if you want quantity I recommend Farnell components. I just ordered 200 1N4148 switching diodes for 1.1p each. They also offer free delivery on all goods (arrived by UPS next day).
http://uk.farnell.com/
I used RapidOnline for my stripboard and 2x13 way IDC sockets (for Olimex USB LPT-2148 header).
Here's a pic of my top grill modified for the Olimex USB Header:
And again with it attached (ignore the trailing wire, it's so I can dump/write to other 360s!)
Post by: jayman81 on December 09, 2009, 12:38:00 PM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 9 2009, 01:46 PM)
You're right - most UTP cables are multi-strand. If you buy UTP cable from a reel for networking however, it will more than likely be solid core (since you'd be using a punch tool for pushing the cables into sockets). If you went for a 'make your own cable', there would still be work needed to either crimp a LAN plug to use with a coupler or go for something like this : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Module...O&U=strat15
It's swings and roundabouts really!
Maplin codes:
M330R for 330Ohm resistors (x3)
M100R for LPT resistors (x5)
QL80B for Switching Diode (may be needed)
Maplins is nice n convenient, however if you want quantity I recommend Farnell components. I just ordered 200 1N4148 switching diodes for 1.1p each. They also offer free delivery on all goods (arrived by UPS next day).
http://uk.farnell.com/
I used RapidOnline for my stripboard and 2x13 way IDC sockets (for Olimex USB LPT-2148 header).
Here's a pic of my top grill modified for the Olimex USB Header:
(IMG:http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/2674/img4359e.jpg)
And again with it attached (ignore the trailing wire, it's so I can dump/write to other 360s!)
(IMG:http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2812/img4360n.jpg)
That's sweet design Martin! I wish it would be easier for solderless dump/write.. Do you have videos on this on how this is setup?
This post has been edited by jayman81: Dec 9 2009, 08:40 PM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 09, 2009, 02:48:00 PM
QUOTE(jayman81 @ Dec 9 2009, 07:38 PM)
That's sweet design Martin! I wish it would be easier for solderless dump/write.. Do you have videos on this on how this is setup?
Umm, no !
It was just something I knocked together to make use of the IDC sockets on the USB Header board. It seemed pointless in keep removing it etc and still maintained functionality of the HDD.What I did:
I bought
2 x 26 WAY STRAIGHT BOXED HEADER RC
1 x 64 X 95MM STRIPBOARD (RC)
(I actually bought 4 of the headers as I had enough stripboard to make another one.
I then connected the headers to the USB and passed the pins through the stripboard (so I knew what pins I was going to use.
I got a knife and cut the tracks in 3 places
one cut down the centre of the pinheaders (so they weren't joined)
two cuts to split the pins on each header - so each pin was individual and not joined to its neighbour.
I then soldered the pins to the stripboard.
Finally soldered the wires to the correct pins on the underside of it.
I passed the wires through one of the small holes in the casing and soldered them onto the board. I left myself a fair amount of wire (about 30cm) to allow for adjustment and future disassembly.
I cut two strips out of the grill to fit the header sockets and used epoxy adhesive to glue it to the stripboard (it's really handy both surfaces have holes since it gave the adhesive something to grip to.
It really was an unplanned fit tho - the assembly is off centre although I don't think it makes all that much difference.
Just taken some more pics:
Closer look topside:
Underside:
End view (low profile to avoid contact with chassis:
if it would help others I might make another one and this time take pics along the way
Post by: stoatie_weasel on December 10, 2009, 12:44:00 PM
Post by: sabbath_dude on December 10, 2009, 03:44:00 PM
QUOTE(FalconLTD @ Dec 8 2009, 02:55 AM)
What is different between the various models (and this hack) is the jtag wiring part of the hack (3 wires connecting 6 points).
QUOTE(b32b @ Dec 9 2009, 01:38 AM)
what tool do you suggest I use to cut the hole in the xbox for the ethernet coupler?
.QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 9 2009, 06:46 PM)
Here's a pic of my top grill modified for the Olimex USB Header:
And again with it attached (ignore the trailing wire, it's so I can dump/write to other 360s!)
.QUOTE(stoatie_weasel @ Dec 10 2009, 07:44 PM)
@sabbath_dude Thanks man! Followed your Tutorial. Kept cable really short. soldering perfect after I dumped the 12W and went back to my trusty 35W. Dumped twice correct flash config and no errors? Is this possible? I read lots of posts with read errors. Thanks again.
Post by: aerofx on December 11, 2009, 07:13:00 AM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 9 2009, 10:46 AM)
You're right - most UTP cables are multi-strand. If you buy UTP cable from a reel for networking however, it will more than likely be solid core (since you'd be using a punch tool for pushing the cables into sockets). If you went for a 'make your own cable', there would still be work needed to either crimp a LAN plug to use with a coupler or go for something like this : http://www.maplin.co...e...O&U=strat15
It's swings and roundabouts really!
Maplin codes:
M330R for 330Ohm resistors (x3)
M100R for LPT resistors (x5)
QL80B for Switching Diode (may be needed)
Maplins is nice n convenient, however if you want quantity I recommend Farnell components. I just ordered 200 1N4148 switching diodes for 1.1p each. They also offer free delivery on all goods (arrived by UPS next day).
http://uk.farnell.com/
I used RapidOnline for my stripboard and 2x13 way IDC sockets (for Olimex USB LPT-2148 header).
Here's a pic of my top grill modified for the Olimex USB Header:
And again with it attached (ignore the trailing wire, it's so I can dump/write to other 360s!)
that looks great. Where'd you get the olimex usb header and how long does it take to dump a 16MB nand?
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 11, 2009, 07:57:00 AM
QUOTE(aerofx @ Dec 11 2009, 02:13 PM)
that looks great. Where'd you get the olimex usb header and how long does it take to dump a 16MB nand?
SparkFun have plenty of US stock, but I got mine from Cool Components (UK) - stock's quite scarce unfortunately.
You need to put it into ISP mode and flash the .hex file via an RS232 level shifter. ToBbErT wrote a useful guide for it here.
Read/write times? I do a full 16MB NAND dump in about 2.5 mins. About the same for a full write too. The thing is that in addition to it being quick, it's exceptionally reliable.
Post by: TayTay2k on December 11, 2009, 08:32:00 AM
EDIT>>>Martinchris23 it would be super sweet if you could do a guide to you setup 100% noob friendly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
This post has been edited by TayTay2k: Dec 11 2009, 04:39 PM
Post by: aerofx on December 11, 2009, 05:10:00 PM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 11 2009, 06:57 AM)
SparkFun have plenty of US stock, but I got mine from Cool Components (UK) - stock's quite scarce unfortunately.
You need to put it into ISP mode and flash the .hex file via an RS232 level shifter. ToBbErT wrote a useful guide for it here.
Read/write times? I do a full 16MB NAND dump in about 2.5 mins. About the same for a full write too. The thing is that in addition to it being quick, it's exceptionally reliable.
sweet. thanks!
Post by: funky26cro on December 11, 2009, 06:13:00 PM
Post by: jokerbrazil on December 12, 2009, 07:51:00 AM
Anyone knows where find another
? My multimeter hasnt continuity scale to find out another point. ( I'm home and have just a few tools 
)I was looking just at the Right of that Point and see a Diode Simbol on the Board. ( Can't solder there ? )
I apreciate any help ^^
JOKEr
Post by: sabbath_dude on December 12, 2009, 08:29:00 AM
QUOTE(jokerbrazil @ Dec 12 2009, 02:51 PM)
Some on can help me out with *J2D2.1* point where goes the Diode. I messed up the PAD and will try a "alternative" point.
Post by: jokerbrazil on December 12, 2009, 08:41:00 AM
Hummm i get it.
I'll try to dump and flash my Nand without this Wires if you say so.
My cable is already made i'll try later dump my Nand . Thanks Anyway.
JOKEr
Post by: teamskene's on December 12, 2009, 11:36:00 AM
Post by: d1corps on December 12, 2009, 11:52:00 AM
Many of the guides on intalling xbreboot say that you have to use the jtag exploit, while the latest release of xbreboot supports the 8995_1 update(which is higher than the jtag req?) Can somebody clear this up? Will this setup allow us to install xbreboot? Thanks.
Post by: The_Doctor on December 12, 2009, 12:28:00 PM
QUOTE(teamskene's @ Dec 12 2009, 06:36 PM)
Additionally, has anybody had success using a dedicated PCMCIA LPT card?
i have not. it doesnt allow you to change mode. i've tried xp, vista and 7, all the same. i gave up and ordered an lpc-h2148 instead.
it also didnt seem to search the relevant addresses. it searches 0378, 0278 and 03BC, but my card has an IO range of FFF0-FFF7 and FFF8-FFDF
(whether or not that has anything to do with it)
Post by: sabbath_dude on December 12, 2009, 01:16:00 PM
QUOTE(d1corps @ Dec 12 2009, 06:52 PM)
*Bump*
Many of the guides on intalling xbreboot say that you have to use the jtag exploit, while the latest release of xbreboot supports the 8995_1 update(which is higher than the jtag req?) Can somebody clear this up? Will this setup allow us to install xbreboot? Thanks.
I wrote this tutorial as a guide for creating a clean/reliable hardware solution for dumping/flashing the NAND. It has nothing to do with running homebrew or doing the JTAG hack. Those are completely separate tasks. To simply dump and flash any 360's NAND no JTAG wires are required.
You might just want to dump/flash your NAND for the purpose of uncrippling the HDD on a banned console (no JTAG hack required for that). Or you might want to flash your NAND with XBReboot in order to run homebrew (requires JTAG wires). There are separate tutorials that detail how to accomplish the JTAG hack if that's what you're after. This one however deals only with creating the cable to dump/flash all current 360s.
Post by: death69inc on December 12, 2009, 09:10:00 PM
my question is will the resisters cuase the continuity test to fail? usally always test when makign anytpye of adaptor
its hard for me to get a beep from all but the 11 and 18
but i can get most to finally give a signal except #1 i rechecked wires soldered etc all seem fine
figure it wont hurt to try to dump reguardless all it can do is fail right
2nd question since you do not power on the xbox can you dump rrod/error code units ?
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 13, 2009, 04:09:00 AM
QUOTE(death69inc @ Dec 13 2009, 04:10 AM)
I finished making my cable per this guide
my question is will the resisters cuase the continuity test to fail? usally always test when makign anytpye of adaptor
its hard for me to get a beep from all but the 11 and 18
but i can get most to finally give a signal except #1 i rechecked wires soldered etc all seem fine
figure it wont hurt to try to dump reguardless all it can do is fail right
2nd question since you do not power on the xbox can you dump rrod/error code units ?
1. Just change your multimeter to measure resistance and set it to check over 100Ohms. If you get this value when you check both ends, you must have continuity.
2. Yes, as long as you're getting a Standby Voltage you can dump the contents of an RRoD board. However without the CPU key it's pretty worthless - you'd still need to install the SMC/JTAG points and flash XeLL to it. If the board is unstable it's unlikely you'll get it to boot.
Post by: jihaut on December 13, 2009, 05:04:00 AM
I'm using Windows 7- should i attach a Dxdiag?
Post by: teamskene's on December 13, 2009, 05:51:00 AM
QUOTE(The_Doctor @ Dec 12 2009, 02:28 PM)
i have not. it doesnt allow you to change mode. i've tried xp, vista and 7, all the same. i gave up and ordered an lpc-h2148 instead.
it also didnt seem to search the relevant addresses. it searches 0378, 0278 and 03BC, but my card has an IO range of FFF0-FFF7 and FFF8-FFDF
(whether or not that has anything to do with it)
Damn!!! Guess I will be forced to buy the LPC-h2148
Post by: warduke on December 13, 2009, 09:14:00 AM
3 red lights, no video, no audio, and the fans power on for 2 seconds. I have no clue what is wrong..
Jasper Motherboard
16MB
I have since completely removed all soldered wires.
Tried an X-clap fix, though pointless since the xbox never truly powers up.
I know this because the power supply stays orange.
There is power flowing on the board however, as I can plug a usb HD in and see that it's light turns on.
Thoughts?
I am out of ideas..
Tried doing a search on xbox-scene, but the search button doesn't seem to work on the forums.. wtf is that all about anyways lol.
thanks for reading
Post by: Roamin64 on December 13, 2009, 10:37:00 AM
I would first remove the board from the metal case, have it completely bare, and look underneath. The through holes where the connections are could have leaked solder underneath , and thats where the bridge is.
Look for any solder splashes that might have occured, cleaning them as needed.
Where was the board when you attempted this? I'm an electronics technician for 10 years now, and yet i still sometimes work in a real mess, increasing my chances of making mistakes. I ripped off a surface mount capacitor from one of the edges of the card, and it RRoD. The damage was barely noticeable. I have absolutely no recollection of breaking that capacitor , yet, it was. Replacing it with one from another 360 located exactly same place (so i didn't have to bother reading the value) fixed the RRoD.
There is also , the possibility where just by moving the board around while grabbing the heatsinks , damaged what was an already poor connection, and what was suppose to happen , happened (RRoD). Although RRoD stay on for more then 2 seconds.
So , all i can see is 1) short 2) damaged part/ trace? (your xclamp attempt , although you tried after RRoD..) 3) Normal RRoD , but you said it doesn't stay on for more then 2 seconds, so again..
Maybe that splash/short is somewhere that isn't powered until the console boots, so that's why you can plug your hd and light comes on , but when the whole circuit boots, it frags due to that short..
Good Luck
Post by: warduke on December 13, 2009, 03:06:00 PM
The secondary error code is 0031.
According to what I have been reading, it seems that moving the board around as I soldered must have broke a connection at the RAM, GPU, or CPU.
I will see about picking up a heat gun and follow one of those tutorials.
If I had known that simply moving the board around outside of the case could have broken the xbox. I never would have taken it out of the case.
I removed the board because it is simply easier to solder that way..
Live and learn I guess.
I will post back after I try to reheat the solder points.
Thanks for the reply.
No, I never saw any broken/raised traces or excess solder on the board.
When I soldered, I did so on a glass table.
Nothing appears to be broken though, so I have to assume it died because I was picking up and moving the board around by the CPU heat sink..
Post by: tendy7 on December 13, 2009, 08:17:00 PM
HI, I'm from Indonesia. I Need This cable to uncripple my banned console so i can install my games to my hdd anymore.
anyone here know where i can buy this modified cable since i'm not expert in soldering. And it's very rare in here the electro shop sell those items (not complete).
i've searched on ebay with no result.
i knew some people here successful to made the cable.
i'd be very appreciate if someone here kindly to sell this nand flash cable to me.
i dont mind it is LPT or USB as long as it can uncripple my ban xbox i will buy it.
Sorry for my bad english
Thanks
i'm waiting the goodnews.....
please contact me via PM or my email : [email protected]
Post by: ruley on December 14, 2009, 07:05:00 AM
QUOTE(tendy7 @ Dec 14 2009, 01:17 PM)
DAMNED MY XBOX HAS BEEN BANNED TODAY and I CANT INSTALL MY GAMES TO HDD ANYMORE!!!
HI, I'm from Indonesia. I Need This cable to uncripple my banned console so i can install my games to my hdd anymore.
anyone here know where i can buy this modified cable since i'm not expert in soldering. And it's very rare in here the electro shop sell those items (not complete).
i've searched on ebay with no result.
i knew some people here successful to made the cable.
i'd be very appreciate if someone here kindly to sell this nand flash cable to me.
i dont mind it is LPT or USB as long as it can uncripple my ban xbox i will buy it.
Sorry for my bad english
Thanks
i'm waiting the goodnews.....
please contact me via PM or my email : [email protected]
Goto the bst and search for grim187 post, he sells usb versions.
Post by: tendy7 on December 14, 2009, 10:10:00 AM
QUOTE(ruley @ Dec 14 2009, 09:05 PM) 
Goto the bst and search for grim187 post, he sells usb versions.
thanks for your information.
i'm directly now to there.
Post by: horror angel on December 14, 2009, 01:39:00 PM
Post by: brando56894 on December 14, 2009, 01:57:00 PM
Post by: FalconLTD on December 14, 2009, 02:39:00 PM
QUOTE(warduke @ Dec 13 2009, 12:14 PM)
after soldering 7 of the 8 wires from the RJ45 cord. The xbox is now dead. It was taken out of the case while soldering and nothing was plugged in. No solder points were touching and as I said, the RJ45 was never connected to anything..
3 red lights, no video, no audio, and the fans power on for 2 seconds. I have no clue what is wrong..
Jasper Motherboard
16MB
I have since completely removed all soldered wires.
Tried an X-clap fix, though pointless since the xbox never truly powers up.
I know this because the power supply stays orange.
There is power flowing on the board however, as I can plug a usb HD in and see that it's light turns on.
Thoughts?
I am out of ideas..
Tried doing a search on xbox-scene, but the search button doesn't seem to work on the forums.. wtf is that all about anyways lol.
thanks for reading
not dead, look at this post: http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=698195
Put the 330ohm resistor between the J2D2.4 and J2D2.7
QUOTE(horror angel @ Dec 14 2009, 04:39 PM)
has anyone tried with a setup like this to put another extension on and a long lan cable to see if cable length really has anything to do with it? I read on here some people try to blame cable length, but i dunno about that being a too much a real issue and it could rule it out or rule it in if it was tested.
I built the lpt cable and hooked up a 1m long lpt extension from it to the pc. It still worked. Total length: 130cm
Post by: tehloxely on December 14, 2009, 02:47:00 PM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 14, 2009, 03:12:00 PM
QUOTE(tehloxely @ Dec 14 2009, 09:47 PM)
Do you need the hard drive to be attached when performing this?
No - why would you think you need it?
Post by: Chemodile on December 15, 2009, 01:51:00 AM
Here are some pics:
If anyone else wants to do this, the switch I used is Radioshack part number 275-0009. Be careful not to get hot glue on the button portion of the switch or you won't be able to push it. If you get some on it by accident you should be able to remove it with a cotton swab and some acetone-based nail polish remover.
Post by: M4zinkaiser on December 15, 2009, 05:24:00 AM
exactly how do you solder the yellow wire to the pin/nand?
Post by: lithium210 on December 15, 2009, 02:54:00 PM
QUOTE(M4zinkaiser @ Dec 15 2009, 04:24 AM)
impressive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) exactly how do you solder the yellow wire to the pin/nand?
very carefully!
Post by: Chemodile on December 15, 2009, 08:06:00 PM
Cut your wire to size, strip the ends and twist the copper so that it doesn't strand off. Flux it, tin it, then flux it some more. Make sure your iron is tinned at this point too, but don't give it too much solder or you're going to risk bridging some of the legs. If you want more solder to make the connection, I find it's easier and more predictable to apply it to the wire rather than the iron.
Using a magnifying glass, flux the leg you want to solder and lay your wire down on top of it. Flux is tacky, so your wire should stick to the leg to some degree. (This is where the paste flux might come in handy) Be very patient at this point, you want to make sure the wire is sitting directly on top of that leg and not touching any others. Make sure that you're also not applying too much pressure to keep it there, or it may move somewhere else when you apply heat. Be patient until you've got it just right.
Holding the wire in place with one hand, very carefully put your magnifying glass down and grab your lightly tinned iron. Press down lightly on your wire for just long enough that the solder flows from your iron and wire to the leg. It shouldn't take more than a second, depending on how hot your iron gets. I use a 25w Weller Marksman, for what it's worth.
If you're more dexterous than I am you can use a continuity meter to check your joint, but I had a hard time getting my probes in the right spot and didn't want to risk pulling the wire off. I used a $10 pocket microscope from RadioShack to visually inspect it, making sure that solder had flowed around and under the wire to create a good bond, and that I hadn't bridges any nearby pins.
If you've never soldered a TSOP leg before I'd recommend practicing on an old motherboard or something, as this will let you experiment with techniques and you can figure out pretty quickly what works and what doesn't. Good luck!
Post by: warduke on December 16, 2009, 06:31:00 PM
QUOTE(Roamin64 @ Dec 13 2009, 12:37 PM)
Maybe that splash/short is somewhere that isn't powered until the console boots, so that's why you can plug your hd and light comes on , but when the whole circuit boots, it frags due to that short..
Good Luck
It was that..
Days after trying the X-Clamp and Heat Gun, I walked away from it.
Today, with fresh eyes and a clear mind I searched ever spot on the board.
There was indeed a solder splash. Was very hard to spot and I wasn't even sure that it was indeed a splash until I put my solder on it to see what was truly there.
So thanks.. Just saved me some money!
I'll go back to modifying it another day. For now, I just want to enjoy a working machine!
Post by: funky26cro on December 18, 2009, 09:35:00 AM
oh and yea on how much wats should be those resistors i got 0.5w , 1w , 2w, 100 ohm resistors what best to use with this ty
This post has been edited by funky26cro: Dec 18 2009, 05:41 PM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 18, 2009, 09:46:00 AM
QUOTE(funky26cro @ Dec 18 2009, 04:35 PM)
ok i got everything to get this working exept dont know where to connect it is that db25m connector same for serial port and paralel port dont know what pci card to buy and where to connect it ,its really misleading what pci card should i get ,serial or paralel becose that db25m connector looks it works on both of them i dident saw that connectors on pc for obout 10 years so anyone pls help what port shold i buy serial or paralel and are those db25 connectors same for serial and paralel ty in advance
oh and yea on how much wats should be those resistors i got 0.5w , 1w , 2w, 100 ohm resistors what best to use with this ty
This topic is called LPT NAND Dump. LPT = Parallel Port. Look at the hundreds of posts on dumping the NAND about what mode to use (SPP, EPP, ECP etc). There are enough clues to not have to spell it out.
As for resistors, 0.5w will to the job fine.
PS - if you're looking to buy a PCI card then save your money. You might as well buy an Olimex LPC-H2148 USB Header and use this instead - it'll take a fraction of the time and is much more accurate.
This post has been edited by Martinchris23: Dec 18 2009, 05:48 PM
Post by: Antman1 on December 18, 2009, 11:03:00 AM
Post by: funky26cro on December 18, 2009, 05:57:00 PM
never dumped nand before and want to make it perfect even got me self some ultra precise soldering iron from weller with 0.4mm conical tip
Post by: jrh31 on December 19, 2009, 05:51:00 AM
Post by: Chemodile on December 19, 2009, 08:35:00 AM
Post by: DanUK on December 20, 2009, 05:27:00 PM
Post by: ATHiEST on December 22, 2009, 08:27:00 PM
What i have is "Cored Flux Solder 60/40 Tin/Lead Alloy" from ebay.. tinyurl dot com/ykvb98q
Is that for for purpose or would i also need separate flux?
Sorry if this as already been asked already.
This post has been edited by ATHiEST: Dec 23 2009, 04:29 AM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 23, 2009, 12:26:00 AM
QUOTE(ATHiEST @ Dec 23 2009, 03:27 AM)
Hi guys, Ive seen a few people mentioning that flux is needed. Im not very experienced with soldering but have done this and that before. What im not 100% about is if i have flux solder do I also need to have seperate flux for soldering points etc?
What i have is "Cored Flux Solder 60/40 Tin/Lead Alloy" from ebay.. tinyurl dot com/ykvb98q
Is that for for purpose or would i also need separate flux?
Sorry if this as already been asked already.
You shouldn't need extra flux, but it just helps to flow the solder into the right places.
Post by: tehloxely on December 23, 2009, 11:52:00 AM
(IMG:http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4427/sssssgr.th.jpg)
This post has been edited by tehloxely: Dec 23 2009, 08:15 PM
Post by: W1zz on December 23, 2009, 04:24:00 PM
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 24, 2009, 03:18:00 AM
QUOTE(W1zz @ Dec 23 2009, 11:24 PM)
Is it recommended to leave the motherboard inside the case to solder up or does this make it unnecessarily more difficult?
You don't need to remove it, but if you're doing this to JTAG the 360 you'll be removing r6t3 anyways!
Post by: b32b on December 24, 2009, 06:32:00 PM
QUOTE(Chemodile @ Dec 15 2009, 03:51 AM)
The RJ45 couplers I ordered from Hong Kong finally came in the other day so I was able to finish this. I love the idea of hiding a nand IO jack under the hard drive, so I added a nand write protect switch to the design as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Here are some pics:
(IMG:http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z162/unplughal/JasperSPI/spi_nwp-internalS.jpg)
(IMG:http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z162/unplughal/JasperSPI/spi_nwp-sideS.jpg)
(IMG:http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z162/unplughal/JasperSPI/spi_nwp-caseS.jpg)
(IMG:http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z162/unplughal/JasperSPI/spi_swp-cableS.jpg)
If anyone else wants to do this, the switch I used is Radioshack part number 275-0009. Be careful not to get hot glue on the button portion of the switch or you won't be able to push it. If you get some on it by accident you should be able to remove it with a cotton swab and some acetone-based nail polish remover.
What is the wire on the chip and the switch it's connected to for?
This post has been edited by b32b: Dec 25 2009, 02:34 AM
Post by: hcaa on December 24, 2009, 07:09:00 PM
QUOTE(b32b @ Dec 24 2009, 05:32 PM)
What is the wire on the chip and the switch it's connected to for?
Read the pictures. It's for enabling the write protect mode for the NAND.
Post by: b32b on December 24, 2009, 09:32:00 PM
This post has been edited by b32b: Dec 25 2009, 05:37 AM
Post by: kbennett on December 28, 2009, 12:35:00 AM
Here's the deal:
I though that the coupler wasn't working before I removed all the cables the first time... So I've made sure that every cable was very securely soldered the second time round (with better quality) cat 5 cables ...
And the coupler seems to work fine when I use it to extend any of my network cables.
This time I left the whole length of cable directly connected to the LPT adapter and I can access my NAND.
But when I cut the cables, put RJ-45 plugs on each end and connect it to the RJ-45 coupler/extender....
No dice!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grr.gif)
Reconnecting each strand to its corresponding color validates that I didn't loosen any cables this time round either ... I just want to finish this setup and close up my box. This time I believe I must ask for help. I suspect that is has to do with the order I've arranged for the cables in each RJ-45 plug that goes into the coupler.
I've connected the cables to the RJ-45 plugs in the following color order (and inversed the order when that didn't work):
White-orange / Orange / White-Green / Blue / White-Blue / Green / White-Brown / Brown
Sorry for the lengthy post, but don't know what else to do.... There's people that managed to get their cable working this way, so it really works. I am just stuck here. Deeply appreciate your help/comments. What order you've arranged your cables on the plugs? Or am I missing something else? Could it be the 8th wire that is not used? Because I put it on the plugs also. Thanks for you help.
Sincerely yours
-- Keith Bennett --
This post has been edited by kbennett: Dec 28 2009, 08:43 AM
Post by: Whatssup on December 28, 2009, 03:07:00 PM
P.S. Cat5 cable is a belkin orange cable, all other parts (db25, resistors, diodes, female to female cat5 extender) were all from radio shack if that helps any!
This post has been edited by Whatssup: Dec 28 2009, 11:08 PM
Post by: kbennett on December 28, 2009, 09:24:00 PM
Now I will backup my NAND and proceed with the patching/flashing procedure.
Thanks for the reply buddy... See you around and take care.
-- Keith Bennett --
Post by: b32b on December 29, 2009, 12:43:00 AM
Post by: shyUK on December 29, 2009, 04:45:00 AM
Post by: Whatssup on December 29, 2009, 10:21:00 AM
Post by: shyUK on December 29, 2009, 12:29:00 PM
Post by: Whatssup on February 02, 2020, 06:15:00 PM
This post has been edited by Whatssup: Yesterday, 02:15 AM
Post by: shyUK on December 30, 2009, 02:50:00 AM
I just thought that I would clarify that I wasn't saying this was the answer to any post in particular on here, just something to keep in mind.Having a crossover cable is actually handy, as you can connect 2 pcs directly or pc direct to satellite box and all modern routers will autosense a crossover cable so they can be used normally to connect to routers, but in the case of this jtag setup they can be a complete pain.
As for a reverse wired coupler that is correct, the RJ45 plugs face each other, so if pin 1 was on the left, then on the other side pin 1 would be on the left so they must be reverse wired, they can't be wired straight through, that would give pin 1 to 8, 2 to 7, 3 to 6 etc. they can only be wired straight through if 1 RJ45 male is inserted flipped.
Post by: Martinchris23 on December 30, 2009, 03:34:00 AM
QUOTE(shyUK @ Dec 30 2009, 09:50 AM)
No worries, I didn't think you'd taken it personally,
I just thought that I would clarify that I wasn't saying this was the answer to any post in particular on here, just something to keep in mind.Having a crossover cable is actually handy, as you can connect 2 pcs directly or pc direct to satellite box and all modern routers will autosense a crossover cable so they can be used normally to connect to routers, but in the case of this jtag setup they can be a complete pain.
As for a reverse wired coupler that is correct, the RJ45 plugs face each other, so if pin 1 was on the left, then on the other side pin 1 would be on the left so they must be reverse wired, they can't be wired straight through, that would give pin 1 to 8, 2 to 7, 3 to 6 etc. they can only be wired straight through if 1 RJ45 male is inserted flipped.
MDI/MDI-X auto-switching is also present in the majority of new Ethernet cards, so the need for having crossover cables is becoming less and less. Just an FYI
Post by: Whatssup on February 03, 2020, 07:55:00 AM
Post by: sabbath_dude on December 30, 2009, 01:15:00 PM
QUOTE(Whatssup @ Dec 30 2009, 02:55 PM)
Yeah that actually was my problem. I wired straight through, and I think a lot of people are doing the same! I read a lot threads on the net when troubleshooting mine, and there were a lot of people having the exact same issues as I was, with almost the exact same setups! I think people aren't realizing that you have to reverse it on one side in order for it to be wired correctly for this! Maybe someone could edit the first page to reflect this! I dunno just a suggestion!
.Post by: jriker1 on December 31, 2009, 06:52:00 PM
Thoughts?
JR
Post by: Haruno on December 31, 2009, 09:44:00 PM
"Could not detect flash controller!"
regardless of the bios settings and I tried on another computer as well.
I'm not using the diode and I followed the tutorial word for word. My cable is pretty short as well.
Anyone have any suggestions? Lower wattage capacitors?
Post by: sabbath_dude on January 01, 2010, 04:33:00 AM
QUOTE(Haruno @ Jan 1 2010, 04:44 AM)
I keep getting
"Could not detect flash controller!"
regardless of the bios settings and I tried on another computer as well.
I'm not using the diode and I followed the tutorial word for word. My cable is pretty short as well.
Anyone have any suggestions? Lower wattage capacitors?
Post by: xtrminatr on January 01, 2010, 04:48:00 AM
Post by: Haruno on January 01, 2010, 10:32:00 AM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Jan 1 2010, 12:33 PM)
Have you got the power hooked up to the 360?.
Yes i do, however this IS a rrod box, but I don't think that's the reason.
Post by: sabbath_dude on January 01, 2010, 12:41:00 PM
QUOTE(Haruno @ Jan 1 2010, 05:32 PM)
Yes i do, however this IS a rrod box, but I don't think that's the reason.
Post by: b32b on January 01, 2010, 02:22:00 PM
The wires soldered to the board are soldered on the other end to a female lpt (with resistors on it) which is glued onto the xbox case. Then you plug a male to male lpt cable from this female lpt on your xbox to the female lpt on your computer.
Will it work if I have the resistors in the middle like this or do they have to be at the male that plugs into your computer?
If this will work then it will give me extra room to work with so I won't have to fit all the resistors inside a tiny lpt shell.
Post by: jriker1 on January 01, 2010, 08:19:00 PM
Thanks.
JR
Post by: b32b on January 01, 2010, 09:09:00 PM
QUOTE(jriker1 @ Jan 1 2010, 10:19 PM)
Does anyone know why the pin labeled in green on this tutorial under C1D7 is impossible to get the wire to make a solder connection? On my Jasper it is the only one of the connections that seems at least partly hollow with a copper ring around it. All the rest of them seemed to be completely closed with a solder joint and was able to make a connection with them. Any clues?
Thanks.
JR
It is ground, you could just solder it to your 360's metal case or something.
Post by: nattynooy on January 02, 2010, 05:13:00 AM
They are just hollow copper rings?
Should I try and put a bit of solder in?
Post by: jriker1 on January 02, 2010, 06:49:00 AM
Thanks.
JR
Post by: jriker1 on January 02, 2010, 07:16:00 AM
QUOTE(nattynooy @ Jan 2 2010, 01:13 PM)
on my Xenon board some of the conections I need to solder to have no solder "inside" as in the pictutres
They are just hollow copper rings?
Should I try and put a bit of solder in?
You can, I couldn't get the solder to stay in the opening however may be because my solder gun tip is to sharp so the solder always moves away from the tip. Another option a lot of people do is take the motherboard out of the case and put the wire thru to the back and solder on the rear of the motherboard.
JR
Post by: JaXxYn on January 02, 2010, 08:07:00 AM
It will solder up easier than anything you have ever soldered before!
Post by: nattynooy on January 03, 2010, 09:31:00 AM
I have tried for hours tinning the wire, trying to get a blob of solder on point then melt the tinned wire into the point
About ready to give up....
Any advice? Could I punch a hole through the circle of solder to solder from the back which would be simple?
Post by: papercut193 on January 04, 2010, 02:09:00 PM
Post by: craz3d on January 04, 2010, 02:52:00 PM
QUOTE(nattynooy @ Jan 3 2010, 11:31 AM)
I managed to get 4 out of 7 connections on very securley. However one will simply not adhere
I have tried for hours tinning the wire, trying to get a blob of solder on point then melt the tinned wire into the point
About ready to give up....
Any advice? Could I punch a hole through the circle of solder to solder from the back which would be simple?
To those of you who are trying to do all of this with the board still in the Faraday cage, sober up and take the board out. I honestly don't know why you'd want to make this job any harder by keeping it in there. Having some breathing room helps a lot. Some points are much easier to solder if you can stick the lead through the hole and solder from underneath as someone else mentioned.
Throughout this whole ordeal you should be keeping an eye on the tip of your soldering iron. If your tip is brown and discolored, maybe a little burnt-looking, its probably covered in old solder and flux, which is slowly burning and insulating the tip. Make sure that you keep it properly tinned and cleaned, otherwise you will not get maximum heat transfer and everything will be much harder to solder. If you don't already, get a small container of tip-tinner and cleaner. You can dip the tip in while its hot, spin it around, then briefly rub the tip on a wet sponge. If you have a nice and shiny metallic tip after this you've done it right.
Post by: nattynooy on January 05, 2010, 06:20:00 AM
12W Soldering iron
Lead Free Solder
Flux Pen
I tin the wire, clean the tip so its silver. Heat the pad then try to adhere some solder to the pad but it simply will not stick and seems to get attracted to the iron not the solder on the board.
I will try and get some of the nice lead stuff see if that helps, do I need a bigger wattage iron?
Post by: jriker1 on January 05, 2010, 06:50:00 AM
Also does the switching diode fix issues where you can't read the NAND at all or just helps if it's not matching or erroring during pulls?
Thanks
JR
Post by: craz3d on January 05, 2010, 08:19:00 AM
QUOTE(nattynooy @ Jan 5 2010, 08:20 AM)
Currently using
12W Soldering iron
Lead Free Solder
Flux Pen
I tin the wire, clean the tip so its silver. Heat the pad then try to adhere some solder to the pad but it simply will not stick and seems to get attracted to the iron not the solder on the board.
I will try and get some of the nice lead stuff see if that helps, do I need a bigger wattage iron?
Post by: Martinchris23 on January 05, 2010, 09:40:00 AM
Post by: jriker1 on January 05, 2010, 09:58:00 AM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Jan 5 2010, 05:40 PM)
The point that almost everyone has problems with (including me) is J1D2.6. I think there's definitely something drawing the heat away from this point as my Iron set to 300 deg C doesn't even touch it. I need to ramp it up to 400 Degrees before the solder I'm adding to the point actually starts to melt. It's a ground point so you can just use J2B1.12 instead - it should be far easier to add solder to it.
I fixed this for me by sticking the tip of the soldering iron into the opening and sucking out any solder in there. Than pulled the wire thru and did a fresh solder from behind the board.
JR
Post by: fahrenheit on January 05, 2010, 02:18:00 PM
I like to get a sharp needle and gently scratch away at the copper until its sparkling back at me, then I can be sure the solder will hold.
I'll upload pics of my mod soon.
Post by: fahrenheit on January 05, 2010, 05:34:00 PM
You can see it leaves plenty of room for the DVD drive to drop in and out.
This also allowed me to move the connector closer ttowards the front of the case and make the wiring distance a shorter run to J1D2.
All finished
Am really hoping that is the last time I have to open my case...
Post by: Aldanga on January 05, 2010, 06:16:00 PM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Jan 5 2010, 10:40 AM)
The point that almost everyone has problems with (including me) is J1D2.6. I think there's definitely something drawing the heat away from this point as my Iron set to 300 deg C doesn't even touch it. I need to ramp it up to 400 Degrees before the solder I'm adding to the point actually starts to melt. It's a ground point so you can just use J2B1.12 instead - it should be far easier to add solder to it.
Can't you use any ground point on the mobo instead of J1D2.6 or J2B1.12? I just used the exposed copper around the holes through which the screws pass into the DVD-ROM's legs as my ground instead of either of the points when I was having a lot of soldering trouble.
Post by: thehump2001 on January 05, 2010, 06:36:00 PM
Post by: joemac on January 05, 2010, 06:45:00 PM
Post by: ddsdavey on January 05, 2010, 07:18:00 PM
Post by: Aldanga on January 05, 2010, 07:32:00 PM
QUOTE(ddsdavey @ Jan 5 2010, 08:18 PM)
Is a 30w Iron to powerful?
That's pushing it if you don't know what you're doing. I used a 15W to start out and it wasn't powerful enough (go figure, it was battery-powered), then a 40W that about fried anything it touched, but the 25W Weller I'm using right now is absolutely perfect for this stuff. It's more of a personal preference, though. If you have a 30W, I'd try it out. Otherwise, I'd just buy a 20 or 25W and stick with that.
Post by: ddsdavey on January 06, 2010, 02:24:00 AM
QUOTE(Aldanga @ Jan 6 2010, 02:32 AM)
I'd just buy a 20 or 25W and stick with that.
Yeah cool but the difference between 20-25 is only the same (relatively) as 25-30. If 40 is too much and 20 is to little then ill hope that a 30 is suffice (under careful operation).Ive got it on its way now so its too late anyway.Do i really need to buy another so im stuck with a 25 AND a 30w? is it a huge step up from 25 to 30?
:(random "hijackpost"!) Sorry but i know how sensetive some are to threads of same old questions so ill ask here incase someones feeling charitable and if not then i get a lecture on forum ethics,here goes:
Dual Nands? Only possible with XD card ,Infectus,Cygnos yes? I just thought id heard that there was some way to virtually mount a second Nand "image" to switch.If this isnt possible then if i dont have a second obviously i have to write to the single Nand everytime i want to say play new games etc (without wave patching!) which i assume is LPT everytime or is it writable from USB once i have a dump/patched Nand.
Apologies for the hijack but im sure theres more important,less treaded questions deserving more of everyones time.
HELP!
Post by: DARKFiB3R on January 06, 2010, 06:28:00 AM
Order Code------Description
47-3100----------BAT41 SILICON SCHOTTKY DIODE
62-0346----------PK 100 100R 0.25W CF RESISTOR
19-8698----------CAT5E KEYSTONE COUPLER
15-0225----------25 WAY BLACK D CONNECTOR COVER
15-0510----------25 WAY T/P SOLDER LUG PLUG
19-8487----------MINI5 0.5M BLK UTP MOULDED LEAD
@ fahrenheit, is that external sata connector just for easy access to the DVD drive for flashing?
Post by: Martinchris23 on January 06, 2010, 09:59:00 AM
QUOTE(Aldanga @ Jan 6 2010, 01:16 AM)
Can't you use any ground point on the mobo instead of J1D2.6 or J2B1.12? I just used the exposed copper around the holes through which the screws pass into the DVD-ROM's legs as my ground instead of either of the points when I was having a lot of soldering trouble.
You can, however the J2B1.12 point is pre-soldered and does the job nicely without having to expose anything else.
Post by: joemac on January 06, 2010, 12:54:00 PM
QUOTE(joemac @ Jan 6 2010, 01:45 AM)
I've been searching for a couple days now and found this tutorial. Here's my problem i have 2 360 motherboards both with no dvd roms and no original rom bin files to go with the mobo's. Both dashboards are 7371 and they are falcon and zephyer boards. Will i beable to use this exploit to get the dvdkey i need from the mobo's so i can spoof spare drives i have and get these boxes running again? Thankyou
im still stuck with this and confussed do i need to wire in the jtag wires for these boards to beable to read the nand's then flash the boards with the proper xell bin so i can retain the info needed to get the dvd keys from the boards? And then reflash with orginal nand bins ? im not looking to add modified firmware just need to get the keys and reflash original firmware back. Please any help will be appreciated
Post by: ddsdavey on January 06, 2010, 01:10:00 PM
Post by: fahrenheit on January 06, 2010, 01:39:00 PM
QUOTE(DARKFiB3R @ Jan 7 2010, 02:28 AM)
@ fahrenheit, is that external sata connector just for easy access to the DVD drive for flashing?
Yes. Everytime I open my case I risk chipping the paint, so I prefer not to have to do it at all.
Post by: craz3d on January 06, 2010, 01:51:00 PM
QUOTE(ddsdavey @ Jan 6 2010, 03:10 PM)
I keep hearing about people selling these USB nand flashers but ive looked through the trade section and see nothing but the odd person looking for one like me.Anyone know where i could get one of these apparent things?
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=699595&st=210
Post by: thejipster on January 06, 2010, 11:35:00 PM
QUOTE(fahrenheit @ Jan 6 2010, 12:39 PM)
Yes. Everytime I open my case I risk chipping the paint, so I prefer not to have to do it at all.
Huh? Do you have the DVD drive connected to the motherboard and the external connector?
You have some sort of splitter inside the chassis? Could you please post some pics, I like what you did so that you can flash updated firmware whenever you want w/o opening the box.
Thanks
- J
Post by: fahrenheit on January 06, 2010, 11:42:00 PM
QUOTE(thejipster @ Jan 7 2010, 07:35 PM)
Huh? Do you have the DVD drive connected to the motherboard and the external connector?
You have some sort of splitter inside the chassis? Could you please post some pics, I like what you did so that you can flash updated firmware whenever you want w/o opening the box.
Thanks
- J
This isn't the thread for that topic. A search for 'Sata extension' should find you what you need.
Post by: DARKFiB3R on January 13, 2010, 05:56:00 AM
Post by: 10camaross on January 15, 2010, 10:08:00 PM
oops knew I forgot to add the link it has been a long day: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156005&cm_re=printer_port-_-12-156-005-_-Product
Post by: Aldanga on January 15, 2010, 11:34:00 PM
QUOTE(10camaross @ Jan 15 2010, 11:08 PM)
would something like this work for flashing if i do not have a printer port? Also want to know because it could be faster and would save money compared to a custom USB nand reader.
oops knew I forgot to add the link it has been a long day: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156005&cm_re=printer_port-_-12-156-005-_-Product
As far as I've been informed and understand, that kind of changer won't work. Beyond that, it wouldn't speed up the transfer rate. Your transfer is only as fast as your slowest component. Given that a DB25 interface is involved in the cable, it will limit the transfer of data.
If your solution worked, do you not think everyone would be using it already? I don't mean to be a prick, but it's something to consider given that we've had people program images for USB header boards for dumping the NAND. The simplest ideas are almost always considered first.
Post by: norm360 on January 16, 2010, 01:47:00 AM
Post by: sabbath_dude on January 16, 2010, 02:48:00 AM
QUOTE(norm360 @ Jan 16 2010, 08:47 AM)
Isn't this kind of mod a bit redundant when you can update the flash from within Gentoo.
This tut was written back when all we had was Xell and basic emus running from .elf files. Even then it was possible for you to update via USB through Xell. What I don't get is why some people are so quick to try to bash this mod?. It's almost always been possible to update without using a cable. If you don't want to have permanent access to the NAND then don't fit the Ethernet section when you build your cable, simple.
Post by: drusso55 on January 16, 2010, 03:47:00 AM
So basically does this cable allow me to read write to my nand and use it to set up my console for homebrew eg. XBReboot, and install Xeloader.
Post by: DARKFiB3R on January 16, 2010, 08:08:00 AM
I think the correct term is an SPI to LPT cable? somebody might want to correct me there. But here we have an RJ45 coupler in-between.
Anyway, as sabbath_dude has pretty much said, this mod just allows you to quickly connect/disconnect an RJ45 to LPT cable, in case you ever need to read/write to the NAND, and for some reason cant do that purely through running software on the xbox.
You still need to make the LPT cable with resistors inside it, and 1 diode connected directly to the motherboard inside the console, as shown http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/Grim187/SPI__JTAG_diagram_zephyr-falcon-opu.jpg
So yes, it does allow you to read your nand and use it to set up your console for homebrew eg. XBReboot, and install Xeloader.
Post by: Martinchris23 on January 16, 2010, 08:16:00 AM
QUOTE(DARKFiB3R @ Jan 16 2010, 03:08 PM)
There is no such thing as an "ltp jtag type cable". The JTAG wires are a separate hack from the LPT cable, and must remain in the console for the hack to work.
I think the correct term is an SPI to LPT cable? somebody might want to correct me there. But here we have an RJ45 coupler in-between.
Anyway, as sabbath_dude has pretty much said, this mod just allows you to quickly connect/disconnect an RJ45 to LPT cable, in case you ever need to read/write to the NAND, and for some reason cant do that purely through running software on the xbox.
You still need to make the LPT cable with resistors inside it, and 1 diode connected directly to the motherboard inside the console, as shown http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/Grim187/SPI__JTAG_diagram_zephyr-falcon-opu.jpg
So yes, it does allow you to read your nand and use it to set up your console for homebrew eg. XBReboot, and install Xeloader.
Yes, you're quite right - it should be referred to as SPI to LPT
Post by: XBoxgeek on January 16, 2010, 08:41:00 AM
QUOTE(norm360 @ Jan 16 2010, 08:47 AM)
Isn't this kind of mod a bit redundant when you can update the flash from within Gentoo.
Not at all. Used this method on my first JTAG mod at the end of last year. Did the same again today with a new Falcon even though Redlines new flasher is now out.
You never know when you will need to go back to LPT to recover from a bad image (look at the last XBR release and how many 360s got bricked). Would much rather spend the extra few minutes doing this then having to take the 360 apart again and re-solder.
Post by: moddingtutorials on January 17, 2010, 08:12:00 PM
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...18#ht_500wt_956
http://www.maplin.co...1124#checkstore
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e#ht_2727wt_939
http://www.cablemonk...3B5_2d005_2d01B
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...#ht_1256wt_1165
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...1#ht_767wt_1165
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...78#ht_726wt_939
Thats it I dont have a soldroin iron atm but I have soldered befor, if you could give me a link for a good soldroin iron and i need solder cud u give me links for both and i dont need the best one just 1 that will do job, what port will i need on my pc to connect the cable as well and i live in uk so uk site please and thank you and btw great tut.
Post by: DARKFiB3R on January 18, 2010, 05:21:00 AM
They should also have the other items you need.
Post by: dangerouseddy on January 18, 2010, 06:00:00 AM
Post by: moddingtutorials on January 18, 2010, 06:13:00 AM
Post by: DARKFiB3R on January 18, 2010, 07:18:00 AM
To cut the metal I used tin snips like these http://www.avenue35....xd.asp?id=54162
To cut the the plastic, I used a craft knife, those ones you get in a little set from the £1 shop
Cutting the metal with tin snips is very easy, cutting the plastic with a silly little knife, not so much
Post by: moddingtutorials on January 18, 2010, 10:11:00 AM
QUOTE(DARKFiB3R @ Jan 18 2010, 02:18 PM)
I think my school used to use Rapid for their equipment, but I had forgotten about them. I was using http://cpc.farnell.com/ for parts when I was building my joystick, until someone mentioned Rapid, and they had much lower prices for what I needed at the time.
To cut the metal I used tin snips like these http://www.avenue35....xd.asp?id=54162
To cut the the plastic, I used a craft knife, those ones you get in a little set from the £1 shop
Cutting the metal with tin snips is very easy, cutting the plastic with a silly little knife, not so much
Thanks so much I have like 2 more questions then im dun lol, when you cut the cat5 cable and then you cut around until you get to wires do you have to do anything with wires like trim twist and i have one big problem my pc is new and does not have the port I do have a pci port tho, so i went on ebay and found this http://cgi.ebay.co.u...39ba323f4#payId will this work i think it will just want to check and 1 more lol in another tut it saids solder the loose wire to the mobo in this tut it just leaves it wat shud i do
Post by: axpk95 on January 18, 2010, 10:58:00 AM
im goin to try this , i have a xenon board with kernel version 7371
i got all the parts listed on page 1
but im a little confused , do i now need 2 switching diodes aswell ?
Post by: DARKFiB3R on January 18, 2010, 12:43:00 PM
QUOTE(moddingtutorials @ Jan 18 2010, 04:11 PM)
Thanks so much I have like 2 more questions then im dun lol, when you cut the cat5 cable and then you cut around until you get to wires do you have to do anything with wires like trim twist and i have one big problem my pc is new and does not have the port I do have a pci port tho, so i went on ebay and found this http://cgi.ebay.co.u...39ba323f4#payId will this work i think it will just want to check and 1 more lol in another tut it saids solder the loose wire to the mobo in this tut it just leaves it wat shud i do
Yes, once you get down to the bare wire, you need to twist the end nice and tight, then put a bit of solder on it, this is called tinning. You could put a bit of flux on first too, that will help the solder flow into the strands of cable nicely. Kinda like this...
Everything I've read says that PCI cards do not work
Your best bet is to find an old PC, you should only need to use it for a few minutes dumping a small part of your NAND. I used a really old Dell laptop.QUOTE(axpk95 @ Jan 18 2010, 04:58 PM)
nice
im goin to try this , i have a xenon board with kernel version 7371
i got all the parts listed on page 1
but im a little confused , do i now need 2 switching diodes aswell ?
Yep, you need 2 switching diodes, 1 for the SPI to LPT connection and 1 for the JTAG wiring.
Post by: craz3d on January 18, 2010, 12:46:00 PM
Post by: DARKFiB3R on January 18, 2010, 12:52:00 PM
Post by: axpk95 on January 18, 2010, 12:52:00 PM
dam local maplin has no diodes in stock
Post by: newfie4ever on January 18, 2010, 05:27:00 PM
Thanks
Post by: craz3d on January 18, 2010, 07:10:00 PM
Post by: axpk95 on January 19, 2010, 11:23:00 AM
xenon board with kernel version 7371
then i go
Testing LPT device address:03
FlashConfig:00012000
Using LPT device at address:0
Starting Block:0x000000
Ending Block:0x0003FF
Reading
Error: 0 reading block 0
Error: 0 reading block 1
Error: 0 reading block 2
Error: 0 reading block 3
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh , anyone got any ideas as to why , i personally think its the connector for the 2 cat5 cables
not sure though
Post by: newfie4ever on January 19, 2010, 11:44:00 AM
Just to mention also I am using my wife's laptop for this as i did not have a port on my pc.
Post by: axpk95 on January 19, 2010, 11:47:00 AM
Post by: sabbath_dude on January 19, 2010, 12:14:00 PM
QUOTE(axpk95 @ Jan 19 2010, 06:23 PM)
ok i got everything done and soldered
xenon board with kernel version 7371
then i go
Testing LPT device address:03
FlashConfig:00012000
Using LPT device at address:0
Starting Block:0x000000
Ending Block:0x0003FF
Reading
Error: 0 reading block 0
Error: 0 reading block 1
Error: 0 reading block 2
Error: 0 reading block 3
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh , anyone got any ideas as to why , i personally think its the connector for the 2 cat5 cables
not sure thoughPost by: axpk95 on January 19, 2010, 12:20:00 PM
the codes vary but its always 0000**00
ah i didnt read your post properly you say fit it onto the DB25 i read somewhere it goes straight onto the board
ok i tried
diode into board
diode ontoo DB25
no diode
4 resistors on DB25
5 resistors on DB25
always get error
Testing LPT device address:03
FlashConfig:00012000
Using LPT device at address:0
Starting Block:0x000000
Ending Block:0x0003FF
Reading
Error: 0 reading block 0
Error: 0 reading block 1
Error: 0 reading block 2
Error: 0 reading block 3
the soldering on the DB25 and on the board is spot on , i really think its this connectoor , im gonna try from DB25 straight onto board
Post by: axpk95 on January 19, 2010, 01:18:00 PM
Testing LPT device address:0378
FlashConfig:01198010
Using LPT device at address:0378
Starting Block:0x000000
Ending Block:0x0003FF
Reading
0017
Post by: Wolfskin07 on January 19, 2010, 04:47:00 PM
This is my first post here at xbox scene and I'm a noobie when it comes to these things!
I have a banned xbox 360 as well and while I don't care about live i would like to get my HDD fully functional =P
I've been reading through these pagesd and came to the conclusion I'm screwed....The process involves creating an LPT cable that connects to an LPT port? The problem is I don't have LPT ports on my computer...it's a core i7 board!
Is there any other method for unbricking my HDD?
I'm sorry if i missed the answer but 15 pages is a lot to read through. Thx fot the help i will receive!
Regards,
Wolfskin07
Post by: moddingtutorials on January 19, 2010, 06:21:00 PM
Post by: craz3d on January 19, 2010, 08:16:00 PM
Post by: Wolfskin07 on January 20, 2010, 05:07:00 AM
I really want to unlock my HDD my i'm getting no info from anywhere regarding the possibility to do it through USB!
PS: i have a Executer CK3 Pro...can that be used to do this ?
Regards,
Wolfskin07
Post by: thwack on January 20, 2010, 12:23:00 PM
QUOTE(Wolfskin07 @ Jan 20 2010, 12:07 PM)
Can someone please tell if you can make a cable like the one in the Tut but instead of an DB-25 pin end make it an USB end for the people who don't have LPT sockets in the Mobo??
I really want to unlock my HDD my i'm getting no info from anywhere regarding the possibility to do it through USB!
PS: i have a Executer CK3 Pro...can that be used to do this ?
Regards,
Wolfskin07
There's a couple of tuts on how to make a usb header in these very forums.
Xecuter CK3 pro won't do this for you. Your best bet may be to borrow someone's PC that has a LPT port.
Post by: craz3d on January 20, 2010, 12:31:00 PM
QUOTE(Wolfskin07 @ Jan 20 2010, 07:07 AM)
Can someone please tell if you can make a cable like the one in the Tut but instead of an DB-25 pin end make it an USB end for the people who don't have LPT sockets in the Mobo??
I really want to unlock my HDD my i'm getting no info from anywhere regarding the possibility to do it through USB!
PS: i have a Executer CK3 Pro...can that be used to do this ?
Regards,
Wolfskin07
The tutorial for a USB SPI flasher is significantly more complicated that this tutorial. If you have to ask to find out how to do this, you probably aren't the best candidate for following the tutorial.I really want to unlock my HDD my i'm getting no info from anywhere regarding the possibility to do it through USB!
PS: i have a Executer CK3 Pro...can that be used to do this ?
Regards,
Wolfskin07
Post by: moddingtutorials on January 20, 2010, 06:11:00 PM
Post by: ferrandu on January 20, 2010, 07:34:00 PM
Im soldered the nandumper to my falcon, run NandPro2 and this don't find a flash driver.
Its over the time to go to sleep for me.
Good night to all.
thanks for the work and the research.
Im using Windows7 64, Im using 64 bit drivers of IOPort.
Who is the correct Parallel Mode to set into bios? Normal, ECP, Bidirectional, ...?
Post by: irulerockaway on January 20, 2010, 09:51:00 PM
Post by: ferrandu on January 21, 2010, 01:18:00 PM
Im conect te cable to the pc and nandpro don't recognise flash driver (probe with windowsxp and windows7)
I probe to run nandpro with xbox360 poweron. When I put the command "nandpro.exe lpt: -r16 backupnand.bin" xbox360 power off
I belive that exists interconnection with pc and xbox 360 but pc doesn't recognise the flash drive.
Any suggerence?
Possible im probe to resolder the cables to the xbox360. What is the alternative diode?
thanks
Post by: thwack on January 21, 2010, 01:28:00 PM
QUOTE(ferrandu @ Jan 21 2010, 08:18 PM)
hi im soldered the cable to my xbox.
Im conect te cable to the pc and nandpro don't recognise flash driver (probe with windowsxp and windows7)
I probe to run nandpro with xbox360 poweron. When I put the command "nandpro.exe lpt: -r16 backupnand.bin" xbox360 power off
I belive that exists interconnection with pc and xbox 360 but pc doesn't recognise the flash drive.
Any suggerence?
Possible im probe to resolder the cables to the xbox360. What is the alternative diode?
thanks
You don't dump the NAND with the 360 power on - you should have the power cable connected, but the 360 should remain turned off. Don't know if this is your problem?
Also, if you're not using a switching diode on pin 11, then do so as this is more likely your problem.
Post by: ferrandu on January 21, 2010, 02:25:00 PM
Im probe with xbx360 power off and with xbx360 power on.
thx for the reply
This post has been edited by ferrandu: Jan 21 2010, 10:29 PM
Post by: thwack on January 21, 2010, 02:30:00 PM
QUOTE(ferrandu @ Jan 21 2010, 09:25 PM)
any reference of the diode? polarity?
Im probe with xbx360 power off and with xbx360 power on.
thx for the reply
Switching diode = 1N4148 or similar, with the black stripe on the diode towards the 360 motherboard. Also have you tried changing the LPT settings in your PC bios?
This post has been edited by thwack: Jan 21 2010, 10:31 PM
Post by: ferrandu on January 22, 2010, 12:10:00 PM
hi Im resoldered the nandumper.
nandpro 2b find flash driver and start reading nand correctly.
Flashconfig is 000120000, no read errors and reading ok. Is possible that I obtain a good nand image with this flashconfig?
Is my nandumper ready to read nand? Im using ECP parallel mode on Windows 7 64
I don't have a diode, tomorrow i go to buy 1.
Post by: newfie4ever on January 22, 2010, 02:20:00 PM
Console doesnt boot to blue screen to get cpu key.
Any ideas?
Thanks
This post has been edited by newfie4ever: Jan 22 2010, 10:21 PM
Post by: newfie4ever on January 22, 2010, 07:23:00 PM
Ok after some more fooling around i have come to the conclusion that I must of had a bad nand read as I cant seem to get the KV out. Guess this box is going in the garbage. Can I flash a donor nand to it to make it work as a dvd player at least?
Thanks
This post has been edited by newfie4ever: Jan 23 2010, 03:56 AM
Post by: ruley on January 23, 2010, 02:43:00 AM
QUOTE(ferrandu @ Jan 23 2010, 05:10 AM)
hi Im resoldered the nandumper.
nandpro 2b find flash driver and start reading nand correctly.
Flashconfig is 000120000, no read errors and reading ok. Is possible that I obtain a good nand image with this flashconfig?
Is my nandumper ready to read nand? Im using ECP parallel mode on Windows 7 64
I don't have a diode, tomorrow i go to buy 1.
Yer add a diode, I had the same problem until I added a switching diode, the onlybad thing was I had to buy 100 as they didnt have any single ones.
Post by: Martinchris23 on January 23, 2010, 03:16:00 AM
QUOTE(newfie4ever @ Jan 23 2010, 02:23 AM)
Ok finally after some more soldering and adding the diodes I got my cpu key. But it appears the nand read might be bad. Looking at using a donor nand to fix this problem. Its been a frustrating project but its still fun.
Ok after some more fooling around i have come to the conclusion that I must of had a bad nand read as I cant seem to get the KV out. Guess this box is going in the garbage. Can I flash a donor nand to it to make it work as a dvd player at least?
Thanks
I saw a post on someone who lost their kv.bin but had the CPU key handy - they were able to use another kv.bin to get it running with XBReboot. I can't find the post at the moment, but head over to XBH and search the forums there.
Post by: xboxhaxorz on January 25, 2010, 09:10:00 PM
Post by: cardboardbox on January 26, 2010, 10:46:00 AM
http://i45.tinypic.com/ng25bk.jpg
Post by: sabbath_dude on January 26, 2010, 10:57:00 AM
QUOTE(cardboardbox @ Jan 26 2010, 05:46 PM)
It's not an extra ground, just an alternative. Either will work fine.
Post by: cardboardbox on January 26, 2010, 11:59:00 AM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Jan 26 2010, 11:57 AM)
It's not an extra ground, just an alternative. Either will work fine.
Post by: Macdaddy5539 on January 28, 2010, 04:22:00 PM
Post by: garlon on January 28, 2010, 06:08:00 PM
i´ve just built and used this cable to dump my nand.
Thanks a lot for this tutorial
(IMG:http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/3985/lptcable.jpg)
Post by: sabbath_dude on January 29, 2010, 12:44:00 PM
.I'm going to add some links in the first post of the interesting variations people have been posting.
Post by: thejipster on January 29, 2010, 01:02:00 PM
When you are done, heat it up and yank it out?
Post by: garlon on January 29, 2010, 08:55:00 PM
And yes when i´m done with read/write nand i just touch it with iron and they come out very easely too and don´t leave a mess of solder on the MB
Post by: vicaversa6923 on January 29, 2010, 09:48:00 PM
Post by: leiase on January 30, 2010, 02:22:00 AM
Post by: garlon on January 30, 2010, 09:31:00 AM
QUOTE(leiase @ Jan 30 2010, 11:22 AM)
Hey there. Quick question about the resistors. Went to get some today but as I don't know a great deal about electronics I got a bit confused. For 100 ohm resistors there seems to be many different kinds. I showed the guy at the store one of the links from this topic and even though it wasn't really in English he said that it would be extremely hard to find resistors with 22MOhm something. As I didn't really know what he was on about I left the shop feeling like a total douche bag. Could anyone point me in the right direction with the specifics of a 100 ohm resistor for this. Now to be honest I feel like a douche even asking this question but if you don't ask you'll never know I guess??
he told you that about the 22M Ohms because that´s is fact 22 Mega ohm or 22000000 Ohm resistor! You don´t need that!
you just need the 100 Ohms Resistor 1/4w or 1/2w
Post by: garlon on January 30, 2010, 09:43:00 AM
QUOTE(vicaversa6923 @ Jan 30 2010, 06:48 AM)
HELP>>>Everythings plugged up but when i run nandpro after it scans i get 'Could not detect flash controller, Fatal Error' 360 is plugged in. I read eariler that the parallel port has to be in spp mode i believe. But my bios only has Bi-directional, EPP, and ECP and i've tried all 3 same result. I suck at soldering maybe thats it heres pics. http://img39.imagesh...=0129002152.jpg
Hi your pictures are a bit blurry but do you have the black line of the diode facing the MotherBoard side?
Check all your wiring again, solder points. Get a multimeter check for shorts and continuity! Take your time!
If u get that error again try with another computer.
Post by: vicaversa6923 on January 30, 2010, 11:06:00 AM
QUOTE(garlon @ Jan 30 2010, 05:43 PM)
Hi your pictures are a bit blurry but do you have the black line of the diode facing the MotherBoard side?
Check all your wiring again, solder points. Get a multimeter check for shorts and continuity! Take your time!
If u get that error again try with another computer.
Post by: garlon on January 30, 2010, 12:39:00 PM
The diode must be connected directly to the motherboard and not in lpt plug.
Take a look at THIS IMAGE
Post by: JoeThePianoMan on January 30, 2010, 02:19:00 PM
how would I go about cutting the metal part on the case were the hardrive usually attaches to? I want to have my cable be just like the one in this tutorial, but I have no clue how I would get the cable outside my xbox.
Post by: leiase on January 30, 2010, 02:21:00 PM
QUOTE(garlon @ Jan 30 2010, 06:31 PM)
he told you that about the 22M Ohms because that´s is fact 22 Mega ohm or 22000000 Ohm resistor! You don´t need that!
you just need the 100 Ohms Resistor 1/4w or 1/2w
Ok thanks will go back today and get what I need. Should be fun.
Thanks garlon
Post by: vicaversa6923 on January 30, 2010, 02:50:00 PM
Post by: garlon on January 30, 2010, 06:23:00 PM
To clean that solder u can use desoldering wire or desoldering pump. To remove excessive flux u can alcool
Post by: b1g1an on January 31, 2010, 05:33:00 AM
QUOTE(garlon @ Jan 30 2010, 07:39 PM)
That can be your problem!
The diode must be connected directly to the motherboard and not in lpt plug.
Take a look at THIS IMAGE
I'll second that, mine didn't work with the diode on the plug, changed it to the board and it reads perfectly every time. Think most tutorials have been updated to say this now but early on it wasn't clear until you searched.
Post by: vicaversa6923 on January 31, 2010, 09:19:00 AM
Also i dont have and cant find any 30 gague wire for the three 330 ohm connections but i do have some thick 18 gague wire will that work?
Post by: vicaversa6923 on January 31, 2010, 12:33:00 PM
Post by: fahrenheit on January 31, 2010, 03:45:00 PM
QUOTE(vicaversa6923 @ Feb 1 2010, 08:33 AM)
i give up i can't get the multimeter gague to move on those 5 ive cleaned them and used the desoldering braid
Please take this critique as constructive.
Your workmanship or your tools are letting you down. Those first pics you showed are a real worry. You've got exposed wire and wire with very pronounced kinks in it that will cause all sorts of issues.
The solderpoints have to be completely rid of the old solder and it requires a bit of skill and the right gear to do it properly. Desoldering requires more heat and more time on the point than soldering a wire and with what you have demonstrated so far I'd be very concerned that you are likely to do irreversible damage in the process. You can follow these pointers but I would encourage you to hand this over to more capable hands.
For clearing the solderpoints, use flux with your desoldering braid and use a hotter iron than your 15watt one (25-30watts). Do not hold the iron on the point for long periods. Just get some solder to flow onto the braid and then remove it, cut the braid, reflux and do a bit more. You need to remove all of the existing solder because it is an incompatible solder to the one you are applying. You should be able to see through all of the holes. Clean up the flux with some isopropl alcohol.
Keep all of tips of your wires short. Tinning the tip of the wire will melt back some of the plastic so start short. Your total length of wire from motherboard to DB25 looks to exceed 30cm which is just asking for failure.
330 ohm resistors? Which guide are you following? And who told you to add that diode to the DB25 plug? Put your tools down and start following a proper guide. You've found your way in here but seem to have completely missed page 1. Good luck.
Post by: vicaversa6923 on January 31, 2010, 10:48:00 PM
Oh and i put he diode back on the board.
Post by: leiase on February 01, 2010, 04:41:00 AM
QUOTE(garlon @ Jan 30 2010, 06:31 PM)
he told you that about the 22M Ohms because that´s is fact 22 Mega ohm or 22000000 Ohm resistor! You don´t need that!
you just need the 100 Ohms Resistor 1/4w or 1/2w
Ok before I start I have just one more question. What's the difference between metal (blue) resistors and carbon (brown/tan) resistors? The ones I have are both 100ohms. Just curious.
Post by: GTRagnarok on February 02, 2010, 01:48:00 AM
Post by: fahrenheit on February 02, 2010, 04:38:00 AM
QUOTE(GTRagnarok @ Feb 2 2010, 09:48 PM)
I read about using Gentoo to dump/flash the nand. Is this cable build just an alternative for future use that's simpler and quicker than Gentoo? Or do they have different purposes?
Gentoo can only be run after the console has been setup for homebrew (nand already flashed). You can use software methods like Gentoo to re-flash it once you are up and running but you'll always need hardware mods like the LPT connection to get you started (at least with the current exploit).
There is also a chance that a software flash can go wrong which leaves you with a console that won't boot. LPT flashing doesn't require the console to be operational so that is why many here choose to permanently attach it.
Post by: dokworm on February 02, 2010, 05:11:00 AM
QUOTE(leiase @ Feb 1 2010, 12:41 PM)
Ok before I start I have just one more question. What's the difference between metal (blue) resistors and carbon (brown/tan) resistors? The ones I have are both 100ohms. Just curious.
The metal film resistors are usually smaller and are closer to their rated resistance.
i.e. the carbon 100ohm might be anywhere from 95 to 105 ohms whereas the metal film ones are probably pretty close to exactly 100ohms.
(Short simplified answer, full answer is longer, look up "resistor tolerance" on google for more.)
Post by: sabbath_dude on February 02, 2010, 05:35:00 AM
(IMG:http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy122/sabbath_dude6/att3.jpg)
(IMG:http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy122/sabbath_dude6/att2.jpg)
(IMG:http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy122/sabbath_dude6/att1.jpg)
I just used the legs from some resistors to make the probes. I soldered on the wire then wrapped it in some electrical tape to make it easier to hold. Finish it off by covering in some heat shrink to hold everything in place and keep it looking neat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Thanks for the idea garlon!.
This post has been edited by sabbath_dude: Feb 2 2010, 01:41 PM
Post by: eLdeeN on February 02, 2010, 09:05:00 AM
(IMG:http://www.mmstech.cl/drml/usb2lpt1/usb2lpt1-1.jpg)
Last question.
1)There's any risk (Mayor) if i solder wrong
2)i dont know how can i make this a right question, but i will ask about the cat5 Cable
- there is some order about the wires (inside the cat5)
i.e: brown/orange/etc must stay/solder in some spot in the mother board or LPT (obligatory)
Srry for my english/sintaxis =(
This post has been edited by eLdeeN: Feb 2 2010, 05:06 PM
Post by: garlon on February 02, 2010, 11:22:00 AM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Feb 2 2010, 02:35 PM)
I tried out garlon's idea and made an easy solder attachment for my LPT cable. It's great!, I used it on 2 consoles last night and it was a lot easier and quicker than soldering wire directly to the mobo. I'd recommend anyone who isn't very confident with soldering to make one. It's also handy if you'll be flashing multiple consoles.
I just used the legs from some resistors to make the probes. I soldered on the wire then wrapped it in some electrical tape to make it easier to hold. Finish it off by covering in some heat shrink to hold everything in place and keep it looking neat
. Thanks for the idea garlon!.Pretty nice job there!
Your welcome
thank you too for your great tutorial
Post by: ddxcb on February 02, 2010, 12:53:00 PM
Post by: garlon on February 02, 2010, 02:50:00 PM
QUOTE(eLdeeN @ Feb 2 2010, 06:05 PM)
Anyone know if this wire could work for the future Nandumper ??
Last question.
1)There's any risk (Mayor) if i solder wrong
2)i dont know how can i make this a right question, but i will ask about the cat5 Cable
- there is some order about the wires (inside the cat5)
i.e: brown/orange/etc must stay/solder in some spot in the mother board or LPT (obligatory)
Srry for my english/sintaxis =(
hi you cant use that cable because thats a lpt (female) to USB converter.
That should be useful to use some old printers, scanners with newer oca without paralel port.
About soldering the major risk should be shorts with ground ect (u can fry tour board)
About the wires u can use any colour to connect any point on your mobo
Post by: tonelab77 on February 02, 2010, 07:06:00 PM
QUOTE(Macdaddy5539 @ Jan 28 2010, 03:22 PM)
Hey all. I have about 4 wires soldered to the board and have decided that this is out of my league. I have little to no soldering experience Is there anyone who would like to take a look at it and finish the job? I am willing to pay for these services. If you are in the Orange County, CA area I can drop it off to you. Thanks in advance.
I can do it. I live in Los Angeles. I purchsed a usb spi nand dumper flasher that is way more reliable than this LPT garbage. I'd still need to solder to the motherboard, but no resistors are required. Let me know if you want to bring it by.
No offense to anyone doing the LPT method. I tried it for days and really wanted it to work but couldn't get a good flash config for the life of me (and I know how to solder with the best of them). So I just picked up grim187's usb spi device.
Post by: GTRagnarok on February 03, 2010, 10:59:00 PM
Post by: Siph3r on February 04, 2010, 03:50:00 AM
Post by: El3h on February 04, 2010, 06:18:00 PM
I've seen many shops selling usb to parallel adapters, will this work? I'm not worried about the speed, just if nandpro will be able to see the device.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Post by: Aldanga on February 04, 2010, 06:26:00 PM
QUOTE(El3h @ Feb 4 2010, 07:18 PM)
My motherboard doesn't have a Parallel port(LPT) from what I've been reading u cannot use an expansion card for this because it won't work, so my question is:-
I've seen many shops selling usb to parallel adapters, will this work? I'm not worried about the speed, just if nandpro will be able to see the device.
Any advice will be appreciated.
It seems you're new to this stuff, but that question has been asked and answered countless times in this thread. That won't work. You MUST have an LPT port.
You can, alternatively, build or purchase a USB SPI flasher. There are several people in the BST forum who sell them, though most are backed-up on orders right now.
Post by: Haruno on February 04, 2010, 06:27:00 PM
QUOTE(tonelab77 @ Feb 3 2010, 03:06 AM)
No offense to anyone doing the LPT method. I tried it for days and really wanted it to work but couldn't get a good flash config for the life of me (and I know how to solder with the best of them).
You sure you were matching the right flashconfig to the right type of motherboard? I know some guides only had the flashconfig of xenon and everyone assumed it had to be that.
Of course it doesnt matter now, just curious.
Post by: El3h on February 04, 2010, 09:39:00 PM
QUOTE(Aldanga @ Feb 5 2010, 10:26 AM)
It seems you're new to this stuff, but that question has been asked and answered countless times in this thread. That won't work. You MUST have an LPT port.
You can, alternatively, build or purchase a USB SPI flasher. There are several people in the BST forum who sell them, though most are backed-up on orders right now.
Thx for the quick response
Post by: eLdeeN on February 05, 2010, 07:42:00 AM
...Now i got another question.
In the motherboard what i supposed to do there ?? Put any resistor or Diode or nothing?
For example:
In the pins there, i need put some resistors in the pins 1-2-14-16-17(right?) .. im ok for now
But the Diode (is different than resistor, right?) where should i placed ? Pin 11 ?
If im right about the pin11, is obligatory do that ?
Edit:
My console is:
Falcon, i guess v2
Kernel 8995
Thnkz ^^ sorry im so annoying about that ,( !
Post by: g.m.skel on February 05, 2010, 11:15:00 AM
edit:
nvm, found your post OP.
thanks.
This post has been edited by g.m.skel: Feb 5 2010, 07:25 PM
Post by: Aldanga on February 05, 2010, 11:26:00 AM
Post by: shyzza313 on February 05, 2010, 12:09:00 PM
i have a question what kind of pins are you using for your quick solder? thanks for the great tut keep up the good work all...... now my kid can get off my box.
(edit sorry dident see post above me)
This post has been edited by shyzza313: Feb 5 2010, 08:11 PM
Post by: g.m.skel on February 05, 2010, 12:13:00 PM
QUOTE(shyzza313 @ Feb 5 2010, 02:09 PM)
thanks i just used this on a old box i had laying around working great so far bout 10 min into nand read
i have a question what kind of pins are you using for your quick solder? thanks for the great tut keep up the good work all...... now my kid can get off my box.
(edit sorry dident see post above me)
the post is right above you broskii
use the ends of diodes, or even LEDs. I had a broken optical mouse laying around and took the LED from it, and clipped the ends to use it for my wire ends.
Post by: g.m.skel on February 05, 2010, 12:49:00 PM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 18 2009, 11:46 AM)
PS - if you're looking to buy a PCI card then save your money. You might as well buy an Olimex LPC-H2148 USB Header and use this instead - it'll take a fraction of the time and is much more accurate.
how would the wiring be done for this?
edit:
did some searching, and if anyone is interested in the USB header method, a tut can be found here:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?act...63&t=699584
This post has been edited by g.m.skel: Feb 5 2010, 09:02 PM
Post by: GemCollins on February 05, 2010, 01:38:00 PM
QUOTE(eLdeeN @ Feb 5 2010, 03:42 PM)
thankz for the last answer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ...
Now i got another question.
In the motherboard what i supposed to do there ?? Put any resistor or Diode or nothing?
For example:
(IMG:http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac247/sabbath_dude5/DSCF8085.jpg)
In the pins there, i need put some resistors in the pins 1-2-14-16-17(right?) .. im ok for now
But the Diode (is different than resistor, right?) where should i placed ? Pin 11 ?
If im right about the pin11, is obligatory do that ?
Edit:
My console is:
Falcon, i guess v2
Kernel 8995
Thnkz ^^ sorry im so annoying about that ,( !
Kernel 8995? I'm blinded by your idiocy. Normally I'm nice to others on this board and I'm glad to answers questions if I know the answers, but because you're directly asking questions which answers can be found in this very topic or other pinned topics make me hate you.
This post has been edited by GemCollins: Feb 5 2010, 09:40 PM
Post by: Aldanga on February 05, 2010, 01:48:00 PM
QUOTE(GemCollins @ Feb 5 2010, 02:38 PM)
Kernel 8995? I'm blinded by your idiocy. Normally I'm nice to others on this board and I'm glad to answers questions if I know the answers, but because you're directly asking questions which answers can be found in this very topic or other pinned topics make me hate you.
To be fair, dumping the NAND on unexploitable dashboards can be beneficial if you want to uncripple a console. That's why I didn't berate him.
Post by: g.m.skel on February 05, 2010, 02:06:00 PM
QUOTE(eLdeeN @ Feb 5 2010, 09:42 AM)
thankz for the last answer
...Now i got another question.
In the motherboard what i supposed to do there ?? Put any resistor or Diode or nothing?
For example:
In the pins there, i need put some resistors in the pins 1-2-14-16-17(right?) .. im ok for now
But the Diode (is different than resistor, right?) where should i placed ? Pin 11 ?
If im right about the pin11, is obligatory do that ?
Edit:
My console is:
Falcon, i guess v2
Kernel 8995
Thnkz ^^ sorry im so annoying about that ,( !
In the very first post the OP doesn't state where to add the diode. He actually had success without the diode. So if you are unsuccessful, you'll want to try adding the diode, or trying a different PC.
*Remember, check both of your NAND dumps for errors before flashing your NAND to determine if your dumps were successful or not.
If you add the resistors to the pins on the Male Serial end, you don't need to add them to the mobo/wire ends. Adding them to the serial end just gives it a cleaner look imo.
Post by: Aldanga on February 05, 2010, 02:16:00 PM
Diagram Link
Post by: overclock on February 05, 2010, 02:44:00 PM
Work's perfectly BTW. Thanks guys. =p
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0023.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0025.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0026.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0033.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0037.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0038.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0039.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0040.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0042.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0047.jpg)
-oc
Post by: g.m.skel on February 05, 2010, 03:13:00 PM
http://forums.xbox-s...t...63&t=699584
(LPC2148 Olimex USB header board with the JTAG Programmer JTAG20 10 pin Connector Cable Adapter)
I would solder the wires from the 360 mobo to this area here?:
Post by: dokworm on February 08, 2010, 03:51:00 AM
QUOTE(eLdeeN @ Feb 5 2010, 03:42 PM)
thankz for the last answer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ...
Now i got another question.
In the motherboard what i supposed to do there ?? Put any resistor or Diode or nothing?
For example:
(IMG:http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac247/sabbath_dude5/DSCF8085.jpg)
In the pins there, i need put some resistors in the pins 1-2-14-16-17(right?) .. im ok for now
But the Diode (is different than resistor, right?) where should i placed ? Pin 11 ?
If im right about the pin11, is obligatory do that ?
Edit:
My console is:
Falcon, i guess v2
Kernel 8995
Thnkz ^^ sorry im so annoying about that ,( !
Sigh. Say it with me... With Kernel 8995 you cannot do the jtag hack at all.
Post by: bigpokey on February 09, 2010, 09:50:00 PM
Post by: thejipster on February 10, 2010, 12:13:00 AM
QUOTE(bigpokey @ Feb 9 2010, 08:50 PM)
Why is this green wire on the motherboard so difficult to get in there? Am I missing something?
One of those pins is ground. The ground points dissipate tons of heat, so you will need to heat it up a bit more to get the solder to stick. Try a bigger tip and pre-tin your solder tip.
Post by: ryknow27 on February 11, 2010, 04:08:00 PM
Thanks
Post by: Aldanga on February 11, 2010, 04:19:00 PM
Post by: dschu012 on February 11, 2010, 11:22:00 PM
QUOTE(ryknow27 @ Feb 12 2010, 12:08 AM)
Is there any advantage to using this cat5 setup vs. USB nand reader? Is one better than the other?
Thanks
It would be LPT vs USB not cat5 vs USB. Each way you have to solder at the same points on the motherboard the USB reader is just faster than LPT. The cat5 is just to make it so you can read/write your nand without opening your box again.
Post by: g.m.skel on February 12, 2010, 01:58:00 PM
QUOTE(g.m.skel @ Feb 5 2010, 05:13 PM)
I just want to be sure, if I were to go this route:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?act...63&t=699584
(LPC2148 Olimex USB header board with the JTAG Programmer JTAG20 10 pin Connector Cable Adapter)
I would solder the wires from the 360 mobo to this area here?:
(IMG:http://i49.tinypic.com/14dms76.jpg)
anyone?
oh, and would I need to add resistors?
This post has been edited by g.m.skel: Feb 12 2010, 10:08 PM
Post by: Con Artist on February 13, 2010, 01:31:00 PM
QUOTE(sabbath_dude @ Dec 3 2009, 05:03 PM)
If you need to install a diode then you should solder it directly to the DB-25 plug on pin 11 (same as with the resistors). Just make sure the black band is pointing towards the 360 end.
Sorry Im a noob @ this.
Would u solder the diode to the resistor and will this work for dumping the nand.
I thought u had to wire it up like this
(IMG:http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r167/XxEclispedMoonxX/JTAG_Hack/Fdjmi.png)
QUOTE(overclock @ Feb 5 2010, 04:44 PM)
Here's my install. Not the greatest pic, They were taken with my phone. Also not my greatest work but I was at work and working on a time table.
Work's perfectly BTW. Thanks guys. =p
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0023.jpg)
(IMG:http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/overclock2099/X360%20LPT%20Install/IMAG0025.jpg)
-oc
What is that black stuff??
Post by: wood88 on February 13, 2010, 10:52:00 PM
Cheers
Post by: Aldanga on February 13, 2010, 10:58:00 PM
Post by: mrluke on February 15, 2010, 02:49:00 PM
Post by: Aldanga on February 15, 2010, 03:25:00 PM
Post by: gmzombie on February 22, 2010, 06:26:00 PM
Post by: Aldanga on February 22, 2010, 06:34:00 PM
Post by: Martinchris23 on February 23, 2010, 03:46:00 AM
QUOTE(g.m.skel @ Feb 5 2010, 10:13 PM)
I just want to be sure, if I were to go this route:
http://forums.xbox-s...t...63&t=699584
(LPC2148 Olimex USB header board with the JTAG Programmer JTAG20 10 pin Connector Cable Adapter)
I would solder the wires from the 360 mobo to this area here?:
No - this is just a programmer for the header board. You would use this to program the LPC-H2148 then solder wires from the LPC-H2148 to the 360 motherboard. And no, you wouldn't need diodes or resistors.
Post by: ddsdavey on February 23, 2010, 10:29:00 AM
Im sure i could rewire the patch one (could i?) but the whole idea of this is a good solid job and that certainly wont be.
Post by: ddsdavey on February 23, 2010, 01:34:00 PM
Ive already screwed up a brand new Microsoft 360 ethernet to find its a patch,shoulda known really i suppose.
Anyway sure would appreciate it,i wasnt gonna do this but now ive got a USB R/W im less inclined to keep wiring directly from that to boards at the rate im doing them currently as it wont last a month!
Cheers as always!
Post by: ddsdavey on February 23, 2010, 05:00:00 PM
QUOTE(ddsdavey @ Feb 23 2010, 05:29 PM)
Does the rj45....
Sorry,DB25!
Post by: g.m.skel on March 08, 2010, 10:43:00 AM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Feb 23 2010, 05:46 AM)
No - this is just a programmer for the header board. You would use this to program the LPC-H2148 then solder wires from the LPC-H2148 to the 360 motherboard. And no, you wouldn't need diodes or resistors.
I'm guessing it doesn't matter which side I solder to?
Can I just use the same method of using the resistor legs and plug in the wires into this end rather than soldering them to the LPC board?
Post by: sirleo on March 14, 2010, 03:08:00 PM
QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 9 2009, 07:46 PM)
I used RapidOnline for my stripboard and 2x13 way IDC sockets (for Olimex USB LPT-2148 header).
And again with it attached (ignore the trailing wire, it's so I can dump/write to other 360s!)
(IMG:http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2812/img4360n.jpg)
Hello, very nice job! I would like to buy this Olimex module, and could you tell me how it should be connected to x360 pcb?
wbr, sirleo
Post by: censor on March 16, 2010, 07:10:00 AM
Post by: cRaCKwHoRe on March 16, 2010, 07:49:00 AM
QUOTE(g.m.skel @ Mar 8 2010, 01:43 PM)
I'm guessing it doesn't matter which side I solder to?
Can I just use the same method of using the resistor legs and plug in the wires into this end rather than soldering them to the LPC board?
You don't use resistors or diodes at all with the USB setup. You need to solder the wires to the other side of the header board. Look at the picture in the following post.
QUOTE(sirleo @ Mar 14 2010, 05:08 PM)
Hello, very nice job! I would like to buy this Olimex module, and could you tell me how it should be connected to x360 pcb?
wbr, sirleo
This is a diagram I made. You can either connect it to the motherboard directly or to an RJ45 coupler. However you prefer. I used standard ethernet patch cable to wire it up and crimped an RJ45 end on it. When I need to use it I stick it into the RJ45 coupler I have soldered to my motherboard.
Post by: censor on March 16, 2010, 07:05:00 PM
I'll snap a photo later, still need to find a way to fix the RJ45 jack somewhere - i used just a jack instead of an adapter - resistors soldered to the back of the jack instead of inside the LPT connector.
Thanks sabbath_dude.
Post by: g.m.skel on March 17, 2010, 12:54:00 PM
QUOTE(cRaCKwHoRe @ Mar 16 2010, 08:49 AM)
You don't use resistors or diodes at all with the USB setup. You need to solder the wires to the other side of the header board. Look at the picture in the following post.
This is a diagram I made. You can either connect it to the motherboard directly or to an RJ45 coupler. However you prefer. I used standard ethernet patch cable to wire it up and crimped an RJ45 end on it. When I need to use it I stick it into the RJ45 coupler I have soldered to my motherboard.
Awesome, thanks.
This diagram is exactly what I needed.
Post by: censor on March 21, 2010, 08:44:00 AM
(IMG:http://i39.tinypic.com/qspe1w.jpg)
(IMG:http://i39.tinypic.com/2iapkih.jpg)
Thanks again for the great idea!
Post by: Adam19 on April 12, 2010, 09:13:00 AM
Thanks
Post by: Jonthe838 on May 06, 2010, 11:57:00 AM
Edit: and where should you connect the cable in the comp? :S
This post has been edited by Jonthe838: May 6 2010, 07:41 PM
Post by: DARKSUPREMACY on June 19, 2010, 12:48:00 PM
http://www.radioshac...clickid=prod_cs
http://www.radioshac...clickid=prod_cs
Thanks!
Post by: iwanttheagrocrag on June 20, 2010, 12:22:00 PM
Post by: pinkdeath on August 05, 2010, 02:16:00 AM
Post by: thugsters on September 05, 2010, 10:16:00 AM
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Post by: hangover on November 26, 2010, 04:19:00 PM
Post by: pgimps on February 07, 2011, 08:55:00 PM
Post by: stevenn21 on June 25, 2011, 05:05:00 AM
Post by: dsa on July 03, 2012, 05:37:00 AM