Post by: SpecialKizzle on January 09, 2004, 08:19:00 PM
also...550mcd LED what resistor would i need?
http://lsdiodes.home...t.net/3mmuv.htm
Post by: SpecialKizzle on January 09, 2004, 10:35:00 PM
based on this. it says i require a 100 ohm resistor? can someone double check that for me? k thanks!
Post by: twistedsymphony on January 11, 2004, 06:52:00 AM
as for just soldering everything together... the reason people use breadboards is because THAT is WAY easier than just soldering everything together...
trust me using a bread board will be WAY less of a headach than trying to solder everything together. this is a pretty simple circuit too just a chip a transister and a few resisters... you could probably even install a pin headder to connect power and LED outputs if you want (the resisters for the LEDs you should keep outside of the board and on the LEDs)
as for the fading CC you PMed me about... I've never seen one but you could probably use this same circuit to control that too. just take the 5V fading output of this circuit and connect it to the 5V input of the cathode you're using.
hmm thinking about it some cathodes use 12V (all the circular cathodes at least)... you could probably use the same circuit just replacing all the 5V signals with 12V but you might have to get a heftier chip and or transister to handle it, I dont have time to look up the specs right now..... and the LEDs running off of it would need a larger resister to drop down the voltage from 12 instead of 5.
Post by: twistedsymphony on January 11, 2004, 06:56:00 AM
vona feel free to correct me if I'm off base...
special... just build that circuit on a bread board and play around with it...
Post by: vona_a on January 11, 2004, 01:22:00 PM
other than that, I really dont play with CC's too much so I cant comment on their range, or how they like to be faded. you cant PWM them cause they dont react as fast as LED's though.
and YEAH, do everything on a breadboard or that prefab board with small holes in it. It'll make it soo much easier, especially since everyone makes mistakes, and that way they are easier to find/fix.
Post by: twistedsymphony on January 11, 2004, 03:29:00 PM
this is probably the best board for the job http://www.radioshac.....ct_id=276-150
they're cheap pick up a few of them... good to have around ")
Post by: |Max| on January 11, 2004, 04:05:00 PM
Post by: SpecialKizzle on November 05, 2003, 10:26:00 AM
So my questions are:
1. inorder to make it "Breathe" would i have to place something where the "neon green" wire is?
2. where do i place the end of the fourth LED? to the grounder? if so where is that?
3. Also what color is the HardDrive ACtivity Wire?
Post by: twistedsymphony on November 05, 2003, 10:29:00 AM
so if I get this right you want these LEDs on the xbox it self...
I guess I dont understand what it has to do with the controler port tutorial... at all?
the hard drive pulses high and low... wire the LEDs in parallel NOT in series you'll have better brightness that way
also you'll need a resister on the positve side of every LED (if you look at an led top down you'll see one side is flat... that is the negative side)
tie all the negative sides together and attach it to the HDD signal line then tie all of the other ends of the resisters from the positve sides together and attach that to 5 volts (pretty much any red wire inside the xbox) use the pinned resistance calculator to figure out the resistance.
doing the above will make the LEDs blink with hdd activity... I'm not sure exactly how to make them "breath" with hard drive activity... I know how to make an LED "breath" on it's own but not in time with something like HDD activity it pulses WAY too fast and the LED woul eather look like it's staying on or staying off during activity
check out the thread concerning palmore's lighting system (he has 2 threads one is on 2HDDs and the other is on a lighting thread) there are several circuits that can be built to fade in and out an LED... but I'm telling you now you wont be able to fade in the LEDs with the pulse... it'll just look like crap....
This post has been edited by twistedsymphony: Nov 6 2003, 01:50 AM
Post by: A2H on November 05, 2003, 04:36:00 PM
dont u mean wire them in parallel?
series would mean u have to split the voltages between the led's, and parallel gives the same voltage to each LED
welcome to grade 9 science
Post by: Grendal on November 05, 2003, 03:44:00 PM
| QUOTE (A2H @ Nov 6 2003, 01:25 AM) |
| welcome to grade 9 science |
Man that's harsh!
Post by: ADAWG69 on November 05, 2003, 03:05:00 PM
Post by: SpecialKizzle on November 05, 2003, 06:00:00 PM
Also, for the eject button, can u make that breathe as well? simply by just adding it to the parallel?
Post by: twistedsymphony on November 05, 2003, 06:54:00 PM
specialkizzle... it's kind of hard telling you how to do this having so little grasp on electronics... I'm not trying to put you down or anything it's just the Breathing circuit can be kind of difficult to someone who doesn't know how to attach an LED to power...
I'd suggest starting off simple... do some google searching and try wireing up just some LEDs... then try building a 555 timer to make it blink... once you've grasped that you can probably move on to building a circuit with a dual op-amp to make your "breathing" lights
here is the thread palmore started when he asked me for help building an animated LED circuit, it has schmatics for building several different types of faders so look around and get some ideas:
http://forums.xbox-s...24&t=112662&hl=
good luck
Post by: Glycerine on November 05, 2003, 06:23:00 PM
Post by: SpecialKizzle on November 05, 2003, 07:39:00 PM
Post by: Glycerine on November 06, 2003, 08:06:00 AM
Post by: dank42 on November 06, 2003, 12:26:00 PM
a2h you are a fukin dum ass
twisted knows his shit when it comes to circuits
i guess you aint been around the scene long enuff to know that
shit forgot the real reason i posted:
on the matter of the "breathing xbox"
i added a second fan and used a fabric softner as a filter (just to see if i could make my room smell sunshine fresh while i was playin my box:)) and it created some kind of air current where the filter would pop in and out to the rythmn of a heart beat and you could see the fabric softner thumping on the side of the box like a heart in some kind of science documentary i added a red led to it so now it looks like a heart:)
ill see if i can get a video up here in alil bit
This post has been edited by dank42: Nov 6 2003, 08:30 PM
Post by: SpecialKizzle on November 06, 2003, 11:58:00 AM
Anyways...here is the revised version of my "breathing" x-box. NOTE: This hasn't been created so for all you noobs, I too am a noob and don't try what I have created...YET
. Anyways, so what I have created is LEDs in parallel the four controller ports and the two bottom LEDs on the eject button. What I will do is disconnect 8 &6's power (2nd picture) and place those in the parallel. After doing so, I will connect all these to a resistor and then to a ground. (do I need to put a resistor on all LEDs? because I heard you could just use one Resistor at the end of the parallel). And the "cool feature" of this is that it has an option to turn off, and when you turn it off the eject button will remain on but not breathing (with a knife switch...or something). So the two questions are:1. Which electrical source do I use (5v, 12v, ?) and what color wire is that?
2. For LED 7 & 5 to suit my idea, where is the main power supply for those two LEDs? So I could simply rewire it to my knife switch?
So if all goes well, the only thing holding me back...is my "fader" :sigh:
Post by: vona_a on November 06, 2003, 04:09:00 PM
1) The German tutorial you found deals with a sort of 2-Opamp Function Generator. Its basically a Schmitt trigger followed by an integrator (do a yahoo search, you'll see what I mean). THIS IS A PERFECT CIRCUIT FOR YOU. Only problem is, I've never gotten that circuit to work. I mean NEVER. My friend next to me using the same parts could do it, but not me
. You'd have to create a 6V middle and use that as a GND, so that your real GND becomes -6V and the 12V signal becomes 6V. sound like fun?2) We can "fake" the integrator buy using a simplified R2R ladder and a few capacitors (see my pic below). You'd run the whole system from 0V to 12V. As you can see, the voltage Out isn't a perfect line, but its linear enough that you'll notice it fading in and out. In my schematics Im using a LM741 opamp, but you can replace with a LM324 with better results.
Post by: twistedsymphony on November 06, 2003, 08:21:00 PM
... anway I built one with 2 leds that faded oposite each other... then I slowed it down and added a relay to pause between fades and added a 555 timer and decade counter to fade in and out 10 LEDs one after the other...
I didn't build it exactly like that diagram I had to make due with the parts I had. so I used 2 separate audio opamps and whatever transisters I pulled out of my toolbox (I couldn't tell you the values if I wanted to)
anyway it worked pretty well...
Post by: SpecialKizzle on November 06, 2003, 08:10:00 PM
Post by: Heet on November 06, 2003, 10:04:00 PM
Thanks for helping yet again Twisted Symphony. Ive learned a lot by your suggestions.
Post by: twistedsymphony on November 07, 2003, 06:49:00 AM
lately XS has been really overflowing with flames after flames and it's getting annoying. I've already jumped and started do this stuff and writing all my tuts for another forum mostly because I'm sick of not being able to get on the forums here from them being overloaded. But if this flame shit on this forum keeps up I'll probably move there exclusivly. Which really sucks because there are a lot of really cool people here that I will miss if I leave...
it's my opinion that no one should get flamed for any reason, even if they "deserve it" nothing will burn them more than if no one responds or acknowledges they exist.
....just my opinion....
------------------------------------
on a happier note.... Special Kizzle this can definilty be done. I would do it myself if I had the time (it is a really cool idea). basically use this fader circuit http://xoomer.virgil...elle/Page51.htm this is the one I built last week and similar to the one you and vona were talking about. basically get a bread board and built it on it (be sure to use a socket for the IC incase you blow it
)you'll want to build it slightly different though. if you look at the transistor. remove the resistor LED part from the bottom completely. then the top of the transistor should be connected to ground instead of 5V (it says 4.5 but 5 works just fine
).now go to your front pannel and clip off the ground legs of the LEDs by the board , get some wire and solder them together. now take the ground lead of the LED and attach that to the bottom of the transistor in that diagram. I dont think you'll need a resistor at all because it's built into that front pannel already. that should work. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I'd recomend searching around for some electronics sites for help with reading circuit diagrams and build the circuit on a ProtoBoard (exactly how it is in the diagram), once you have it working on the board rebuild it soldered in place on a breadboard (With the modifications to the circuit) and wire it up. once you know it works wrap it in electrical tape to keep it from shorting out inside or your xbox (or hot melt it to something).
if you need anymore help let me know.
good luck
Post by: SpecialKizzle on November 08, 2003, 09:52:00 AM
horray! i'm getting somewhere! ok so i guess ms paint is my best friend these past couple days, so i've done a lil something to that picture. so uh...how's it look?
i'm pretty sure i messed up somewhere! i got confused with your words. so i have yet another question...
1. Which wire DO i use (or suggest to use) for my 5 volt power supply?
2. and the question about "switching" from fader to just the eject button...i'm still not clear about that part.
thanks for everyone's input!
can't wait to take pics for this one.
Post by: vona_a on November 08, 2003, 01:02:00 PM
And the safest place to steal voltage is from your HDD power plug. Just buy a simple Y adaptor at your store, and use the spare end as any source of 5V or 12V you need. (Red is 5V, yellow is 12V, black is your GND)
Post by: twistedsymphony on November 08, 2003, 02:00:00 PM
I the switch in the middle of the circuit... by putting the switch there the LEds will finish what ever fade there on (up or down) and stop. so if you break the connection mid fade out... it will just fade out and stop... and as soon as you click it back on it will pick up where it left off...
hope that helps
Post by: SpecialKizzle on December 26, 2003, 12:20:00 AM
could i put 10 LEDs? as long as it were in a parallel, so it won't BLow up or short circuit it? k thnx
much love the Twisted! and everyone else that helped.
Post by: vona_a on December 26, 2003, 12:14:00 PM
| QUOTE |
| I just skimmed through this thread, but I saw someone mention to add a resitor for each led when you should only use one. Using multiple resistors in parellell would be pointless because the more resistors you use the less resistance you would get. If you attach 2 10ohm resisters in parallell you get 5ohms, 4 10ohm and you get 2.5ohms and so on, but if you only use one however many ohms resisistor you can hook up an infinite number of leds and your circuit would still be at least as many ohms as your resistor, thus never overloading your leds. Actually now that I think about it I guess you could add one directly to each led as long as the resistors weren't directly paralell with each other, but what would be the point when you only need one. |
Whoa, I think someone had a bit too much sugar with their coffee this morning.....
I always recommend using a single resistor per led..... why?
well, for a few reasons:
1) if you wanted to add/subtract LED's from your project you dont have to recalculate all the exisiting LED's.. just pop on the same size resistor and your good to go
2) if your adding lots of LED's, then you have to worry about the power rating of each LED, whereas for a single led, 1/4W resistors are enough
3) An led costs only 1cent.... not exactly the bank breaker in any case.
4) multiple resistors lets you use different colour LED's without a problem... one resistor and certain LED's will be brighter than others....