xboxscene.org forums
Xbox360 Forums => Xbox 360 Hacking Forums => Technical Onboard Bios / Kernel / Dashboard Forum => Topic started by: Dicko316 on November 22, 2012, 05:56:00 AM
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Test the spi points for the correct values/readings.
See here for details.
http://www.team-xecu...ead.php?t=77908
[But the site is down at the moment]
Here is the google cache of that page.
http://webcache.goog...r...=clnk&gl=uk
I'm thinking you may have a problem with the southbridge. A reflow or reball may help.
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Your J1D2.1 looks a bit off. Also your resistances. Any damage to the board? Also, test your spi reader on another board to rule that out. What are you using for ground?
I just tested a falcon I have here and got these readings
Resistance:
J1D2.1 - Infinity
J1D2.2 - Infinity
J1D2.3 - 40 Ohm
J1D2.4 - Infinity
J1D2.5 - Infinity
J2B1.5 - Infinity
J2B1.6 - 6K Ohm
Voltage:
J1D2.1 - > 1mV
J1D2.2 - 3.3V
J1D2.3 - > 1mV
J1D2.4 - 0v
J1D2.5 - 0v
J2B1.5 - 3V
J2B1.6 - 0.0-0.1 mV
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Ok, i ended up replacing the nand chip from a spare parts board i had. So it still wasn't booting..
I desided to check the board once more, and i noticed i had several broken traces under J1D2. Aparently the original rgh installer had slipped his soldering iron, or heated up wrong places.
Anyways, i ended up repairing three broken traces. Still won't boot but now i get it to read nand properly.
Everytime i either try to erase or write nand it still gives error 202 on each block..
Now one thing i noticed is my flash config is now 0x01198030 instead of the original 0x01198010.
So could the replacement nand be the wrong kind? Or could i still have a broken trace somewhere that has something to do with the writing operations?
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Sorry I havn't replied sooner mate, been busy lately.
I would say your having trouble because you have a broken trace or damaged component one or more of the nand legs, most probs the write enable and/or write protect of the nand. Maybe even more points.
You said you had damage?
Post some pics of the damage and repairs, also make sure your nand has the correct continuity from the points on the nand legs to the points you would use to fit a dual nand chip.
(Ignore the text in the center, this pic is just for reference)
I think this board maybe a lost hope? As the time spent repairing may out-weigh its worth?
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Yeah 30secs to go RROD with 0022 is most likely GPU issue.
Test the GPU if its lower than 1.2ohms the it may need a reflow/replacing or reball.
http://xbox-experts....e-cpu-is-burnt/
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Yeah I normally remove the epoxy, just so I can give the GPU a little nudge when at the right temp to test that the solder is fully liquid.
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Hi mate, I'd try a reball.
But time out the 0022 error again and see if its still 30 secs.
If you nand is not right then thats also a mojor problem.
When correcting single block write errors manually read it with that command, but when writing use -w command not the +w.
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Type Nandpro /? at command prompt to get a list of all functions/commands
If your getting torn pads then your not reaching a balanced/high enough temp. Both board and chip should be of similar temps to get good pulls.
But you really need a bottom pre-heater, I've tried everything and nothing works like using a preheater.
I normally set my scottle ir6000's bottom heater to 235 deg C, run that for 4-5 mins, then my top heater kicks in, after approx 10 mins both reach same target temp of 225-230, which is good enough to reflow or remove chips.
I re-attach at a slightly lower temps as the melting point for leaded solder is lower, normally run it 2 times, reflowing with liquid flux the 2nd time.
Running a profile too fast will cause popcorning of the chip too, so nice and steady is the key.
Make sure your chip your working on is dry, so if you've cleaned it with alcohol or solvent then make sure you leave it to dry first, as this can also add to popcorning of the chip.
Then also running the temp too high or riseing the temp too fast can also cause this.
Try and use a few temp probs too, I only really have a basic setup at the moment, but I have two temp probs, one on bottom of the board, just off center, then the topside probe just touching the target chip and the board.
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Yeah I use a multimeter/temp K probe for the bottom. Then my machine has a k probe on it too which I use topside.