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[toyato89]

QUOTE (DreCon @ Jan 13 2004, 02:04 PM)

I did the exact same thing, but on the M1 Ready point. Do you know if there is an alternate for this point? I'm kind of at a lose here.?.?

Sorry, I'm not taking the drive apart again, and I have no pics. The best I can tell you is to follow the trace either by eye or with a multi meter (set to ohms, when it shows 0 ohms its an equivalent spot). That's how I found new TRIN & TROUT spots.

QUOTE (speedbump47 @ Jan 14 2004, 12:49 AM)

Thanks for the post. I did the same thing, and actually pulled (then subsequently burned) the trin/trout points on the PCB. It was all I could do to use some defogger repair paint to reconnect the traces.

If you're having trouble with mucked traces, scrape back and expose about 1/8" of it, then try soldering one strand of a multistranded wire. It takes a steady hand and some pliers but it's doable. My SD-616T would not be working right now if it weren't for this. You'll also have to put a piece of electrical tape or some hot melt glue over it so it doesn't short out. If that doesn't work, I guess the defroster repair kit would be your best option. Good luck in any case.

[sajain84]

Thanks again.
- Saurabh

[toyato89]

The reason you're having the trouble with sourcing a SD-616T is because they've been discontinued for a while, and everyone's snatched up the last remaining bunch of them to resell for astronomical amounts (and usually pre-modded) for xbox. premodded is nice, the good premods don't even need a power Y splitter, b/c they have the yellow cable feeding the power.

I bet you could probably muck around with the philips drive some more and get it to work somewhat better than now, if not reading originals again. I tried a pot tweak on my thomson drive, and screwed it, thats why I got the SD-616T. I got it just before the huge demand began (before everyone knew about them) and before the premodded ones started to be available (around september).