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[Xlab]

QUOTE(d0rkie @ Jul 4 2003, 10:49 PM)

Hi all,

well my confidence in my soldering has kind of taken a knockback. The points didn't look anything like as small from the photos  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)  I've been practicing all evening, on an old nic card, and I really doubt I'll be able to solder the d0 on top successfully, there are 2 points pretty close on the 1.2 and 1.3 boards not to mention the traces. Anyways...my question:

Is there anyone who *KNOWS* and can confirm from personal experience with the 1.3 xbox that the alternate d0 is the same as in the photo we've all seen http://users.belgacom.net/bn257386/x-ecute...ls/xs-dia03.gif

I know it's supposed to be the same, but then a lot of people have said this and that is the same and then it ended up NOT being. Please don't answer unless you actually used the alternate d0 on a 1.3 yourself successfully.

THANKS !

Hi,
I have just completed a successful Duo X2 Cromwell upgrade  (My first on a 1.3) and I have used the alternate D0.

If you locate the Alt. D0 using the above image and then follow it further there is another smaller pad but has the advantage that the track  between the two pads has a reasonable space between tracks.

I  removed 3mm of solder resist from the D0 track starting at the 2nd smaller pad, tinned it and then tacked a  tinned length of  thin wire  to the pad and track.

Remember to clean the board with flux remover and inspect with a jewlers eyeloupe  with at least 15x  magnification.

I used the top D0 on a 1.1 recently, again I removed solder resist from the track as this gives extra rigidity to the connection.

You might like to know that I am 53 years old and my eyes are not as good as they used to be.

NOTE-  To solder on small tracks your iron tip must be no greater than 1mm dia and the iron must be temp. controlled. A good quality Electronics grade (THIN) FLUXED solder is all that is required and don't use too much.

TIPS to good soldering -

Tin the items first where possible.
Tin the tip of the iron
Heat the joint first for a few seconds and the apply a small amount of solder.
When it flows pull the iron vertically away from the joint.

Hope you can use the information.
ENJOY and happy modding.

This post has been edited by Xlab: Mar 2 2006, 03:22 AM

[Julius Pleaser]

I'll sum it up for you nice and simple and explain how on a version 1.0-1.5 you can find the D0 easily.
  If you notice the circled pad in your photo is the 3rd from the end of the row of pads(nice diagonal row) (end being farthest from your LPC), and you notice that the pad has a trace to a small via (to the right in your photo), and those vias make another diagonal row of little vias..... That is how you can tell where your D0 is.  It is always the 3rd pad in from the end of the diagonal row of pads, and that pad connects to a via that is the closest to the lpc on the row of vias.
  On the versions the pads might shift a little, and the little via row might have 4 instead of 3, but your D0 will always be the 3rd pad from the end of the diagonal row of pads and connects to the via closest to the LPC in the diagonal rows of vias.  Once you learn the pattern, it stands out on any 1.0-1.5 very easily.


A word on soldering the D0:
  Tape your D0 wire so it it lined up on the pad nicely (your stripped wire should be no longer than the pad).  once you have it all lined up and taped to hold it for you to solder, you can put a dot on flux on the pad if you have some, but it is not needed.  Now just bring the solder against one side of the wire, and your iron to the other side.  As soon as it starts to flow, that should be enough solder, and pull everything away and you should have a nice dot of solder holding it in place.  then just remove your piece of tape you used to hold the wire in place.

This post has been edited by Julius Pleaser: Mar 2 2006, 03:51 AM

[d0rkie]

Hi all,

well my confidence in my soldering has kind of taken a knockback. The points didn't look anything like as small from the photos    I've been practicing all evening, on an old nic card, and I really doubt I'll be able to solder the d0 on top successfully, there are 2 points pretty close on the 1.2 and 1.3 boards not to mention the traces. Anyways...my question:

Is there anyone who *KNOWS* and can confirm from personal experience with the 1.3 xbox that the alternate d0 is the same as in the photo we've all seen http://users.belgacom.net/bn257386/x-ecute...ls/xs-dia03.gif

I know it's supposed to be the same, but then a lot of people have said this and that is the same and then it ended up NOT being. Please don't answer unless you actually used the alternate d0 on a 1.3 yourself successfully.

THANKS !

[chukz]

those are for the old 1.0/1.1/1.2 XBox that have a d0 point on the top and d0 point on the bottom of the motherboard...

They are the same

As for the new 1.3, i think that the point on the bottom of the motherboard is also d0 because the 1.3 and 1.2 have the exact same wiring diagrams for Homebrew solution.

[NightL1fe]

so the 1.3 alt d0 is the same as all boards?

[dzv]

There was some discussion a while back about possible differences in the area around the Alternate D0.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?act...=ST&f=9&t=65645

I still haven't confirmed these differences, or even whether or not the guy in that thread had a v1.3

Basically, here's a pic of what he described:

(IMG:http://www.ozxmods.com/images/xs/altd0v1.3.gif)

[feflicker]

You should hear a "beep"!