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[dachef26]

Just flashed TSOP on an ST chip on a 1.4 XBOX.  Evo M7 bios.

I thought the evox installer would be so much better, but after many unsuccessful tries with the evox installer and the old raincoat from #xbins, I successfully did it when i upgraded to .501.

Props to whoever made that!

[madthumbs]

QUOTE (dachef26 @ Jan 21 2004, 06:31 AM)

Is raincoat .501 the current one on #xbins?  I'm having trouble flashing my 1.4, and am curious if that is the problem.

I don't think the one from xbins was the .501. I'm having trouble finding the .501 as the one on SourceForge appears to be .5 and looks like this;

raincoat-0.5+.tar.gz

This file appears to open in Winzip or Winrar, but neither seems to maintain the directory structure. All files extract to one folder. I've tried placing them in the directory structure created by the raincoat from xbins, but there's no "etc" directory in that one. I created an etc sub directory off the raincoat folder and placed the raincoat.conf file in it. When I run it, it still acts like it's missing.

What I think some of us need is a directory tree that shows where to place each file.

I have two xbox's that I bought at the same time. They appear identical even down to the tsop. One flashed fine with the raincoat from xbins, this other one I can't get to flash. The error suggests that I add it to the etc/raincoat.conf file which I've already did to the best of my knowledge.

Any help on unpacking this tar.gz file properly may help as well.

EDIT: Found; http://dwl.xbox-scen...ncoat-0.501.zip

-This new file does not require an "etc" sub-directory. I put all the files in the raincoat directory using the old structure from the xbins package. Finally after 1 1/2 weeks, it's flashed.

Thanks.

[Toolman]

Flashed a 1.2/1.3 after soldering all 3 point - it reported that it flashed sucessfully, but now it FRAGs - details here: http://forums.xbox-s...T&f=43&t=164157

[queradical]

The phoenix bios loader works in 1.4 & 1.5 ??

[xbitch]

QUOTE (smokeingit @ Aug 12 2003, 12:11 AM)

i will do all 3 points just incase. http://forums.xbox-s...tupid,and,guide

I have a ST chip # m29f002bt70n1 in a version 1.5 Xbox. It required me to do all 3 points. Thanks a million for the info, bout to drive me mad

[Nemissis]

I have a 1.3 box with winbond chip in it, I tried using the mecheurasia and I added the winbond flash to the ini. and it would lock-up on the erase.

I read all these posts and found that the mechraincoat will work, but when I try to save the mechraincoat to my mem card it's too large.  Its about 10 blocks to big, what am I supposed to do?

Is there another mech raincoat I can use?

[NegSol]

Hi all,

Ok, it's my first post, but I just wanted to thank all of you posting here, because you enabled me to do a TSOP with my brand new 1.5 (Midtown/halo/bundel) box.

My Box had a Winbond (W49F020R-90b) chip, a new Phillips drive and a WD HDD.
The kernel was a 5530.01 and the dash was 5659.03. I downgraded the dashboard, used hotswap to install the fonts and booted linux via a signed EVOX-Dash from the mech-raincoat install package (rename and sign the evovxdash.xbe!!! in the package).

I did not solder the points but used conductive ink instead (in german that is called "Silberleitlack" in case you wonder). Used a toothpick to apply it. Pretty delicate thing to do. I connected only the Top 2 ones.

There is really nothing that can go wrong, because you can test it, if it's done correctly by using the raincoat tool (telnet from a windows box into your linux-xbox) and do a backup of the bios first! ("./raincoat -r backup.bin -v") If it tells you that it found a chip other than 0xFF and 0x09 than it is a save bet that it will work.

That was my experience. Hope I could help in case you wonder if u could flash one of those new boxes.

Cheers!

[iamttam]

 .:3 hours of looking on this forum:.  Try raincoat .501, READ ONLY! Oi!  Resolder everything, try Raincoat again, 0x20 0xB0 unknown (soldering is fixed), try adding.  Crap.     .:4 hours looking on this forum:.     Try Evox again (Solder fixed, maybe it will work), not flashable.  

FIND RAINCOAT .7 w/ 251 TSOPs    Run it   and VOILA, IT WORKS    



It's about time.

1.5
ST TSOP
Two top points, 1 bottom link.
007 AUF - Raincoat .7

[jsrlepage]

and anyways it's a cheapmod)!

So, could I bridge the points with some wires? I have a Winbond chip (haven't noted down the number...) - how much space does that chip have?

I thank anyone who'd help me - and you get cookies.

[neonman]

Just Flashed a 1.4 Halo xbox with an ST chip, used top two points only and the eurasia flash pack. worked fine

[easyguy]

flashed a friend's v1.4 with Winbond W49F020T kernel:5713 dash:5659 manufactured 15-03-2004. tried the top points only but didnt work. in the end got it done by soldering the bottom point. total: 3 soldering points.
used: splintercellsave_with_evox_raincoat-ntsc

[sushi_lover_1]

I just flashed a 1.4 yesterday with success.  I did my research over two days using this forum (AWESOME by the way) and other sites.  After anal-yzing and accumulating everything that could apply to my setup I did it.  Here's what I did.

1.  First my Xbox specs: Manuf. Date Dec 2003 (version 1.4), ST chip

2.  Downloaded TSOP flashing guide from this site found here

Rather than using the 007 with Raincoat from xbins, I used the highway_007mech_flash_pack from Eurasia and did NOT upgrade raincoat to version 0.7, unless of course this pack is version 0.7 I'm not sure.

3.  One problem encountered, the first time I tried the actual flashing part, I got a "not writeable" error.  Solution: I added additional TSOP types to the evox.ini in the highway_007mech_flash_pack.  Here is the list I used

Flash      = 0x04BA,"ALX2+ R3 FLASH",0x40000
Flash      = 0x01d5,"AMD - Am29F080B",0x100000
Flash      = 0x015b,"AMD - Am29LV800B",0x100000
Flash      = 0x01da,"AMD - Am29LV800B",0x100000
Flash      = 0x01a4,"AMD - Am29F040B",0x80000
Flash      = 0x378c,"AMIC - A29002",0x40000
Flash      = 0x04a4,"FUJITSU - MBM29F040C",0x80000
Flash      = 0x04d5,"FUJITSU - MBM29F080A",0x100000
Flash      = 0xadb0,"Hynix - HY29F002",0x40000
Flash      = 0xadd5,"Hynix - HY29F080",0x100000
Flash      = 0xc236,"MACRONIX - MX29F022NTPC",0x40000
Flash      = 0x89a6,"SHARP - LH28F008SCT",0x100000
Flash      = 0x20B0,"ST - 29F002",0x40000
Flash      = 0x20f1,"ST - M29F080A",0x100000
Flash      = 0xbf61,"SST - 49LF020",0x40000
Flash      = 0xbfb6,"SST - 39SF020",0x40000
Flash      = 0xda0b,"Winbond - W49F002U",0x40000
Flash      = 0xda8c,"Winbond - W29f020",0x40000

4.  I replaced the HD with a 120 GB Western Digital bought at Best Buy ($79 after mail-in rebates).

5.  I used Slayer's EvoX v2.3 Auto-installer found, well, found on the web somewhere.

6.  A couple of notes:  After booting the flashed xbox successfully the first time, I unsoldered the two bridge points.  Also, I have the original 007 AUF disk (bought used at Blockbuster for $10).

Research took about 2 days.  Actual flashing from opening Xbox to closing with 120 GB HD took about 1.5 hours; this includes soldering/unsoldering  two bridges and installing Slayer's Auto-Install.

Good luck to others!

[Meurig]

It's been said before, but I just thought I'd re-itterate, on the 1.2 and 1.3 xbox, the bottom point are EXACTLY THE SAME as the top points a little to the left of the TSOP.  it is never necessary to do all three, the bottom points will only have an effect if you haven't done the top ones correctly.

The benefit of this is that if you have a ohmeter or multimeter, the bottom pair gives a foolproof place to check that you've soldered that top pair correctly.  This is a little pointless though, since following the traces for both pairs on the top give very simple places to do the checks anyway.

If you've checked with a multimeter, but still get a 'flash not writable' error in evox, chances are you're missing the line in evox.ini which identifies your chip.  Either try and hunt down the specific line to add, or (as I do) just add all the following lines (you can't have too many!):

Flash = 0xadb0,"Hynix HY29F002",0x40000
Flash = 0xada4,"Hynix HY29F040A",0x80000
Flash = 0xad23,"Hynix HY29F400T/AT",0x80000
Flash = 0xadab,"Hynix HY29F400B/AB",0x80000
Flash = 0xadb9,"Hynix HY29LV400T",0x80000
Flash = 0xadba,"Hynix HY29LV400B",0x80000
Flash = 0xadd5,"Hynix HY29F080",0x100000
Flash = 0xadd6,"Hynix HY29F800T/AT",0x100000
Flash = 0xad58,"Hynix HY29F800B/AB",0x100000
Flash = 0xadda,"Hynix HY29LV800T",0x100000
Flash = 0xad5b,"Hynix HY29LV800B",0x100000
Flash = 0xb0c9,"Sharp LHF00L02/L06/L07",0x100000
Flash = 0xb0cf,"Sharp LHF00L03/L04/L05",0x100000
Flash = 0x89a2,"Sharp LH28F008SA series",0x100000
Flash = 0x89a6,"Sharp LH28F008SC series",0x100000
Flash = 0xb0ec,"Sharp LH28F008BJxx-PT series",0x100000
Flash = 0xb0ed,"Sharp LH28F008BJxx-PB series",0x100000
Flash = 0xb04b,"Sharp LH28F800BVxx-BTL series",0x100000
Flash = 0xb04c,"Sharp LH28F800BVxx-TV series",0x100000
Flash = 0xb04d,"Sharp LH28F800BVxx-BV series",0x100000
Flash = 0x20b0,"ST M29F002T/NT/BT/BNT",0x40000
Flash = 0x2034,"ST M29F002B/BB",0x40000
Flash = 0x20d3,"ST M29F200BT",0x40000
Flash = 0x20d4,"ST M29F200BB",0x40000
Flash = 0x20e2,"ST M29F040 series",0x80000
Flash = 0x20d5,"ST M29F400T/BT",0x80000
Flash = 0x20d6,"ST M29F400B/BB",0x80000
Flash = 0x20f1,"ST M29F080 series",0x100000
Flash = 0x20ec,"ST M29F800DT",0x100000
Flash = 0x2058,"ST M29F800DB",0x100000
Flash = 0xda45,"Winbond W29C020",0x40000
Flash = 0xdab5,"Winbond W39L020",0x40000
Flash = 0xda0b,"Winbond W49F002U",0x40000
Flash = 0xda8c,"Winbond W49F020",0x40000
Flash = 0xdab0,"Winbond W49V002A",0x40000
Flash = 0xda46,"Winbond W29C040",0x40000
Flash = 0xdab6,"Winbond W39L040",0x80000
Flash = 0xda3d,"Winbond W39V040A",0x80000

Can't find where to put them in the evox.ini file?  Look for similar lines, add them next to or instead of he ones already there.

Finally I'd just like to say that using just wire is not really a feasible way of bridging the points (there's nothing wrong in priciple, but getting the wire held in such a way as to make the contact without soldering it?  I can't think how... and if it came loose half way through a flash you've totally screwed things up!).

If you absolutely positively don't want to use a soldering iron, you can instead invest in some condictive ink - I've found the best place to find this stuff in the UK is in rear windscreen heater repair kits, I've never actually tried this, but a few people swear by it.

If you're after something a little more down and dirty, you'll find the lead from a pencil is conductive, if you can draw a dark enough line joining the points, you should find it will make the conection for you - this is not made easy by the waxy coating on the surface of the board though, you might want to go at the area VERY carefully with a stanley knife or razor blade to see what you can do about the coating first, even then I'm not sure it's even possible - something to try while the shops are shut though.

But the main thing is, if you are having problems get hold of a multimeter and test - if the multimeter says it's fine you know it's software.  Hope this helps.

[jinn]

I have no luck flashing Winbond - W49F020
This what i have.
Focus
v1.2/1.3 not sure
mfg date: 2003 07 27
k 51.01.01
d 5659.03
Refurbish
I bridged both point in the top of board and the one on the bottom of board
When I telnet to it using Splinter Cell and raincoat 0.7
Starting at address 0x000000...
Trying to erase whole chip...
Done
Programming...
Done
Verifying...
Done
Complete
# exit
using X2 4983. when i reboot i get M$ logo under big X not X2.
I have desolder the points and cleaned them use flux and did it again and no go does anyone have an idea of what could be wrong

[xboxofniet]

Hey jinn,

Are you sure you use an X2 bois file?

Maybe you created a backup first and then wrote this backup bios onto the xbox???

Try puting an other bios.bin.

Good luck.