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Author Topic: Tries Booting Then Frag  (Read 111 times)

ncaissie

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #15 on: July 29, 2004, 08:39:00 AM »

On OS 1 there are three steps to flashing the BIOS.

Int the menu:
Select a bank.
Select a Bios (HDD/CD)
Program Flash <- Does the work.
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carloshosh

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #16 on: July 29, 2004, 08:47:00 AM »

QUOTE
On OS 1 there are three steps to flashing the BIOS.

Int the menu:
Select a bank.
Select a Bios (HDD/CD)
Program Flash <- Does the work.


The problem here is the xbox boots flashes green restarts itself then boots flashes green then reboots then flashes RED / GREEN (frag)

We cant even get any type of screen.

We have tried:
1. Powering with Eject button
2. Switching the recovery mode switch
3. trying to boot with Evox or slayer disk....

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Rendell

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #17 on: July 29, 2004, 10:49:00 PM »

I had the same problem with the red light at first. Red light means your d0 is fine. Blue light means it has found the XOS (xenium).

Did you check for continuity with your multi meter. Hold the black side on earth, (a plate where the screws go in) then touch the red side to each pin. You should get a reading on all except the one opposite the missing pin.

Let me know.

I sent my chip back when it had this problem after i had tried everything and it was replaced. Sometimes using the solder method will fix this.
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carloshosh

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #18 on: July 30, 2004, 02:01:00 AM »

sad.gif

Man I think i need to dust my PS2 off...
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danman1289

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #19 on: July 30, 2004, 02:02:00 AM »

biggrin.gif
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Rendell

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #20 on: July 30, 2004, 04:56:00 AM »

Carloshosh if you take your chip out does the box boot ok?

This could be the chip. From my experience i have learnt to check the following.

1) Make sure its not a clone
2) Make sure your pins on your pinheader are level
3) Check and recheck your multimeter readings
4) Check that you havnt lifted a trace around your d0 point
5) Double check your TV is on the right xbox channel
6) Make sure your using original controllers
7) Make sure you are using standard AV leads
8) Boot with the eject button and keep pressing the white button on controller

If you are absolutely sure that these are all ok, then try starting with the chip on recovery mode. On the xenium there is  a switch for recovery mode.

If none of this works then i would be sending the chip back or trying it in a known working box. I ended up sending mine back and the new one worked fine.
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carloshosh

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« Reply #21 on: July 30, 2004, 07:09:00 AM »

QUOTE
1) Make sure its not a clone
2) Make sure your pins on your pinheader are level
3) Check and recheck your multimeter readings
4) Check that you havnt lifted a trace around your d0 point
5) Double check your TV is on the right xbox channel
6) Make sure your using original controllers
7) Make sure you are using standard AV leads
8) Boot with the eject button and keep pressing the white button on controller


Hey Rendell

I have like tripple checked this. If i remove the chip i get the same result, if i try another Modchip i get the same result, i just dont get it. I checked with a multi meter, mag glass etc ..

I can't find any good docs on what EXACTLY to look for with the multi meter, but there is connectivity!

I really appreciate all your help..

C
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Rendell

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« Reply #22 on: July 31, 2004, 02:53:00 AM »

If you cannot boot when the chip is out then more than likely i would say you lifted a trace or broke a connection somewhere. Thats what i did on my last install.

Finding the one thats broke can be tough though. Chances are its nice and close to the d0 point. You need to get a pin and scrape off the plastic coating at the ends of each trace so that the copper is exposed. Be careful doing this. Use your multi meter to check each one then solder a jumper on the ones that stuffed.



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drRAVALOT

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #23 on: July 31, 2004, 05:17:00 AM »

can you hear the hard drive working...if so it could be a bios problem....maby your not doing recovery mode right
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tiiiiinnitus

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« Reply #24 on: August 01, 2004, 01:32:00 PM »

QUOTE (carloshosh @ Jul 29 2004, 03:09 PM)
Hey I HAVE THE EXACT same problem and my XBOX is a 1.4 as well.

The only difference is the color of the LED on my Xenium chip is RED (Solid), I have checked all soildering etc and even done multimeter checks and everythign seems find.

Well, I am a n00b with this, but the only time I got the red solid LED was when I flicked the recovery switch. Did you flick it back?  blink.gif
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Xboxmodder3690

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Tries Booting Then Frag
« Reply #25 on: August 01, 2004, 04:24:00 PM »

I have the same problem. Just now I tried powering it up and the LED on the ICE (which used to do red) is blue. What is wrong?
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Xboxmodder3690

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« Reply #26 on: August 01, 2004, 05:54:00 PM »

Bump.

Comon people I really need help with this
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carloshosh

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« Reply #27 on: August 02, 2004, 01:59:00 AM »

Right, I feel your frustration and I know how hard it is to see a broken Xbox, I had the exact same problems, so let me tell you what I did and how it solved my issues..

At first I had the following symptoms –

1.   Solid red led on the Xenium chip
2.   Xbox would boot Eject button flash green for 2 seconds and reboot, then flash green for two seconds then reboot and go into a frag

I am luck enough to have a friend that has worked in the electronic field for AGES (20 years) he dug up his pretty impressive workshop and got to work, the findings ---

1.   The D0 track was lifted, even he said to me that this is really difficult to spot and it’s a tricky bugger because of where its located (the top D0) that is. Also lifted tracks are really difficult to diagnose, he then fixed the lifted track.
The result of this ---

The xbox would not boot flash GREEN AMBER then reboot then flash GREEN AMBER  then frag.

One step closer, he then spent a good hour looking around the LPC and the D0 points for solder splash, BUT eventually when he did a full search on the ENTIRE board he found the SMALLLLLLEST solder splash on the other side of the board. He showed me the splash and if it wasn’t for his REALLLY strong magnify glass I would have never seen it.

Booted the Xbox and BANG it was working.


NOTE: (This is from the guys over at the ozxodus IRC channel)
If you get a solid red light on your chip – You have power
If you get a solid blue light on your chip – it’s found the XOS (the embedded bios)

The order --- Boot the xbox – Chip should go RED then BLUE

I guess that after I had checked the board 5 times myself and I REALLY did check it, there was still some problems some pro’s could only see.

I was lucky enough to have a friend that was a pro, but if you take it to any electronic shop they should be able to pick up the problem.

When I asked my friend how the solder splashes got onto the other side of the board, he told me ALWAYS look for (and try to avoid doing this yourself)

1.Having your soldering iron tip to wet (i.e. with a blob on the end of the iron)
2.When removing a chip with a solder vacuum sucker you need to concentrate on the single point and keep the vacuum as close to the area as possible otherwise this is what happens.

I know that this is not what you want to hear but I know how fustrated you are and how you hoping for just that little easy thing that someone might say “oh just flick this switch or turn this knob” but this error is usually a hardware failure.

I spent 1.5 months on this problem and finally it’s been put to bed.


Good luck man and if you need anymore help let us know.

Carlos
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