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[silentsnake]

[moobar]

CODE

CLEAR; PRINT(LINE 1, " \\  //"); PRINT(LINE 2, "  \\//"); PRINT(LINE 3, "  //\\ENIUM INSIDE"); PRINT(LINE 4, " //  \\"); DELAY 5 SECS; CLEAR; PRINT(LINE 2, "It's good to play together"); DELAY 5 SECS; REPEAT;

[greengiant]

Yes the contrast will be controlled via PWM feature....well thats the idea. Working in that tonight.
Backlight will most likely also be PWM+Other in order to control the much higher source of the backlights.

ScreenSaver... mayby. Ill see bout that.

[greengiant]

Contrast + Backlight is added. They are both now software controlled.

Still working on some sort of custom boot logo that is programmable (right now boot logo is pre-programed in the chip)
As well as the screen saver idea.

Prototype is being made and should arrive in the next few days.

[moobar]

Thanks for the update, sounds great.


Ive got a bunch of different size LCDs in my junk bin, question is what is the smallest size that will work so far with XBMC?

I'll probably try to install a 16x2 or 20x2 to the case, a 40x? seems way to big to fit without completely butchering the case.


I wanted to make an SPI extension cable of some sort which would contain the Xenium at one end and your gadget at the other end so I could hide the Xbox in one area but with the display mounted and visible in another area. What would be the minimal connections from the Xenium to the gadget? G, V5, SOUT, SCLK?

[greengiant]

The way the harness will come is in two forms.
1 The adapter will be close to the xenium, and the wires will run some 20-30cm to the LCD
2 The adapter will be close the lcd, and the wires will run some 20-30cm to the xenium.

Oviously the 2nd solution is better as it uses less wire.
The wires for the SPI are
SDO CLK GND VCC

But do note 5v is also needed, the SPI does not provide for this.
There are a few methods, LPC port, USB connector, motherboard, hdd connector.
I will probably be using the HDD connector method with an adapter, or the same way I do with the XIR, have a thick wire that inserts into the molex adapter on the motherboard.

The wires for the LCD Are
D4 D5 D6 D7 RS VCC VEE RW <something> <Something>  led+ led-
In all it is 12 wires, but RW and LED+ are all repeats of other wires, so the minimal from adapter to LCD is 10 wires.


For reference:
1            VSS              GND
2            VDD              V+ 5v
3            Vo (Contrast)    Check datasheet (0-20k resistor to GND)          
4            RS              
5            R/W              GND
6            E                
7            D0              
8            D1              
9            D2              
10          D3              
11          D4                  
12          D5                    
13          D6                  
14          D7                    

15          BGLED  Optional-Refer to your datasheet  (GND/V+)
16          BGLED  Optional-Refer to your datasheet  (GND/V+)

[moobar]

While not something that would sell very good but would be a fun project for me.

What kind of SPI clock rates are we talking? I know I got some TX/RX parts around here that can handle about 4800bps.

[greengiant]

Not very fast, I havent tested yet. I do have a debug output running on serial at 2400 and there isnt any loss of data.

The wireless idea is cool. Not nessesarly with batteries, but just the wireless for the data. The ideal would be a car. You stick the xbox in the trunk, and the LCD is wired up only for power in the front of the car. Simple cigarette lighter adapter will do the trick. Then the data itself is sent from the back to the front. No need for wires or any messy stuff.

BUT, the cheap wireless Ive seen can come to around $10 for a pair, and isnt too releiabled. A better ones ive used, can run upwars of $20pair
So it depends on the need of the user if it can really be a good thing to use the wireless or not. If people are interested in this, I will look into it as it is very easy to implement.

[mlwood37]

you may be able to answer this question for me -

I have a xbox in the footwell of my car and a 600 watt inverter attached to it.

The xbox is modded with the xenium and a 300 gig HD.
There are 3 x 7 1/2" wide screen tvs attached to it.

Now with the car turned off (not running) the xbox and TVs runs fine and i have no problems.

When i start the car and start running the inverter soft turns off and then comes back on ( i think). Then i turn the xbox on. The problem i have is when the car stop at a light and i go off again the xbox suddleny just stops working and sort of just Humms. But i cannot get it to work unless i Turn off the inverter and then turn it back up again.

This is a bit bad due i cannot just jump out of the car and open the foot wells and re start the inverter every time i have to come to a crner or a traffic light.

Is there a way to solve this problem as its very annoying.

Should i use a seond battery and use a relay to the sceond battry and just run the xbox of the second battery.

I dont get any interfeance off the xbox due to me adding inline suppressers to my xbox on the 12V and 5v line with in the xbox its self.

[greengiant]

Well just by saying xbox+tv's... and inverter..

When you said the xbox stops when the car stops at an intersection, that is when the car is at idle, producing the least amount of power. It may be possible the inverter is not able to provide enought power to the xbox and such.
What rating is the inverter your using ?

You may want to try a different inverter, a more powerfull one.
Also check other devices that donot use the same amount of power, to see if the problem is that the xbox is running out of power and thus it becomes unstable.

[mlwood37]

.

p.s the inverter is on this page = http://www.maplin.co...n=F&modulecode=

its the N66AU - Dam its gone down By £40 ---- i payed £90 ARRRRRR

[greengiant]

well thats good to hear you found the problem.
i dont know if a battery + inverter will be best option.

Since the xbox does not use the power at 112v directly, it dowconverts.
You can try and find car adapters made for computers, ATX connector that plugs directly into 12v or can be wired to battery. That way your not loosing power in the upconvert/downconvert.

How long do you plan to run the xbox on the battery ?


"(proves your add at the bottem of your nic works)."
I dont have an ad tag on my posts. I hate people that have LONG signatures, so every time they post it makes the thread HUGE with clutter.

[greengiant]

Well the first prototype boards should be arriving this week. Very excited.

Also may have found a very nice manufacturer/supplier of parts which can possibly allow me to make the $15 mark I promised.


Good and Semi-Good news,
Iam starting to get replies from JST distributers about the connectors.
I found one that has the Crimps at a cheaper price, but its still a reel of 23k (or about $300) which is about $100 less than the other place. theyr connectors are more expensive, 0.23. So i may do a mix between these and the others, these for the crimps and the other for the connectors.

BUT they do have the IDC version connector with no minimum, but the connector is about 3x what the crimp version (or 10x from the other dis)
But it gets cheaper in 100's

So i may opt to go with IDC.


Once I get samples I will be able to say more if its worth the crimp over IDC. Also as I get more replies I will post info.

[silentsnake]

I can't wait man, keep me posted.

[moobar]

Would you be able to guesstimate the final dimensions? Im most interested in the thickness. You mentioned you'll be using SMT parts so I'll guess it'll be pretty skinny.

Im putting together my external case that will house a 20x4 LCD and your gadget. Currently I have about 0.35" clearance after the LCD is installed.

First project is to have it hard-wired with some quick disconnect cables.

Second project will be the wireless version with a programable remote (LCD + your gadget + Linx receiver + stripped down programmable remote + 4AAA) Of course this version will be a giant of a case to house it all in so clearance isnt a prob. The idea behind this is to have it sitting on the dinning room table with the TV off. I was able to get reliable 4800bps comms at about 70ft. So im keeping me fingers crossed.