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[WhackAmolE]

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Which way is better?

I'd say pin header gives you a little more latitude if you make a mistake.  if you quicksolder and mess it up..you MIGHT have a difficult time removing the chip

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I need to get a soldering iron. What should I look for in an iron and what type(size, whatever) of solder would be best?

you'll want to get a 15watt soldering iron with a fine tip.  As for the type of solder, many of the tutorials list their favorites...so i'll do that too.  I'd suggest .22 diameter, High Tech-Rosin Core SILVER BEARING solder.  I emphasize silver bearing because it melts at lower temps.  This will reduce the chance of scorching anything and is easier for a non-expert solderer to deal with.

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does it come with a wire for the D0 connection or do I have to scournge one up?

you'll have to scrounge one up.  you'll want to look for 30gauge wire and not stranded wire if possible

[Shaid]

[Tidusblitz111]

If it is your first time, you are out of practice, and you don't wanna remove you chip, then I would actually say go with quick-solder because not only is it easy, but fast hence"quick".....and, there is no need to remove filled solder...

[NikAmi]

If I were you, I'd do with the pinheader. As to Tidus's post, the desoldering isn't that bad, just use desoldering braid (not the sucker) and make sure to not press too hard, too long. This is just my opinion.

[moistness]

[dstmo]

Shaid,

Welcome, and congrats on entering a new adventure.

My buddy and I were in the same boat yesterday.  It was also a V1.0 box.

You have to go pinheader method.  I guarantee that if you quick soldered, there would be a time in the future where you wanted to swap, and the pinheader method makes it easier.

Get desoldering braid from R.S.  Put the braid over each solderfilled hole, and touch the hot iron to it for about a second.  You will see the solder turn liquid and flow into the braid.  Cut off the filled section of braid after each desolder.

Use the underside d0 point as well.  That actually turned out to be the easiest part of the 'process'.

The other tip I would have is to make sure that the pins on the pin header do NOT stick thru the underside of the mobo too far.  Just above flush with the board is ideal.  Also, brush on a little flux on the pinheader pins that are just protruding thru the underside of the board.  This should help the solder drop onto the pins, and flow around the pin into each 'circle' (landing).

Take your time.  Do one pin at a time, and not too much solder.  You can always come back later and apply more.  Also get a magnifying 'lens'.  We had one that attached to the table, and had a 60watt bulb in it.  Make it much easier to see the joint you are trying to solder.

Trust me, if we can do it, anyone can (my buddy did all the soldering, I dissasembled, reassembled).

It is also a rush the first time the chip boots the OzXodus screen.  It is time well spent.

-- dstmo

[Shaid]

Lots of good responses. I have an old broken mobo so I think I will do a little practice on it before I start on the chip install.  I really am leaning toward the pin header now but I will see how I feel once I practice up a bit.  Thanks for all the advise guys and I'll let you know how it all turns out.

[cap269]

Do yourself a BIG favor ... use the pinheader. Don't go any other way.

The underside D0 is a bit easier, because it is slightly larger; but the topside D0 yields a shorter D0 wire. The shorter the D0 wire the better, but it is a very small point on top.